UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Alex Smurthwaite on October 19, 2018, 01:45:04 pm
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The biggest weakness in my climbing is my complete inability to hold any type of slopey edge, full handed slopers are fine but i find pad edges nails.
I have a set of micros and the 8mm edge feels fine to hang for over 12 seconds, but the holds on Pillbox original for example I can barely pull on.
Any tips for getting stronger on those types of holds?
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Turn the BM micros upside down and then try?
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So, I think the reason for this is how easy it is to cheat things like the 8mm Micros. I am not strong at all but can hang the micros for a similar amount of time by smushing my fingers into the back, so the skin rolls as I hang and there's kind of a pinch/friction effect. Way more than just fingers on an edge.
When you've got a slopey edge, so not incut, you can't cheat them, and it highlights the hole. Lattice use their rounded 18mm rung for this reason, you can't get away with cheating as easily and you have to focus on finger form properly.
I dunno, this is the conclusion I came to. I just do max hangs on 18mm edges now and focus on my fingers being properly placed.
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What sort of grip do you tend to use? Just speculating but it might be beneficial to work on some open hand grip strength if you're not so strong in it, as you can probably get more skin on a typical slopey edge with an open grip rather than a half crimp or crimp.
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as above + are you quite strong in the shoulders and the pecs? People who are fairly strong there are usually good at cheating on fingerboards by leaning out and pushing hands slightly together. Then the test on a fingerboard means basically zilch.
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I should add that it's possible to cheat a one hand test as well, but that requires even stronger shoulders, and the amount you can beat the test is not the same as in a two hand test.