UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Nibile on April 08, 2018, 11:06:19 pm
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Power Club
Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1, second week of fifth cycle. 15x90% (72 kg). Happy. Then 10x3 50%. Again a good session, did 8 straight reps, then used blocks. I am more and more convinced that this is the way to go, the volume has increased dramatically and I can feel it. Technique is still the crucial factor, it's quite easy to lose small bits of it, and each one has big consequences: from the speed of the lowering phase, to the position of the scapulae, to the grip, to the orientation of the elbows, everything must come together.
Thu - climbing class. Nothing.
Fri - Javorek complex, power: 3x2, 2x1; standard 6x2.
Sat - rest.
Sun - very tired. Power cleans singles up to 80 kg. Snatch pulls, press ups, front lever pulls.
Good week after all.
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Almost didn't understand that this was power club...
STG: Cut weight, train fingers, crush outside
MTG: 7C
Couple of weeks off PC, non-climbing trip round W coast of Scotland. Beautiful scenery and weather. Managed three days of climbing in that time:
Thurs 5th April: Torridon Celtic Jumble, had a few hours here. Warmed up by doing Squelch 6C: https://vimeo.com/263383867
Had many goes on Malc's and managed to get to the throw to lip but couldn't quite hold the lip. Finished by getting shut down on the sit to Squelch. Scottish grades are stiff.
Sat 7th April: Bowderstone. Warmed up doing Crack Direct 6C+. Then did Picnic Sarcastic Direct Finish 7B, even better than the original:
https://vimeo.com/263761760
Also did On The Rebound 7A+, failed attempts on Picnic into Inaudible 7B before the run-off got too bad
Sun 8th April: Went to find Lambrini Girl and could do all the moves. Couldn't quite link as I had thin skin and I kept pinging off the slick holds. Bowderstone again where I did the RH sit to Picnic Sarcastic Direct Finish 7B+ - definitely the best way to do the problem. Failed again on Picnic into Inaudible, taking some heavy pinging falls off the Inaudible jug. Called it a day as skin was weeping.
Put on almost all the weight I lost before the Scotland trip, cut starts again today!
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Brilliant, Coops!
Is everyone else on holiday or what?
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Squelch looks fantastic, amazing noises from the Bowderstone!
And a fantastic title from Nibs!
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"Watch me darling" :lol:
This week
2 sessions on weaknesses (slabs/vert/slopers) trying lots of things I would normally avoid!
April goals
5 Greens at the Arch - 1/5
Benchmark 7B on the moonboard
Weight < 72kg
this year
7C
hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks
Weight: ?
Wednesday
Some attempts on a slopey awkward V7, not my style but nearly did it in the end. Tried a few others.
30 mins stretching, good and focussed on this.
Thursday
Arch B1
The majority of the new slab set, including a (soft) green.
Sunday
Arch B1
Good session, lots of messing around as with friends, but repeated 3 greens and did a few whites.
coming week
2 greens
find some new moonboard projects
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I went outside.
M - Rocher de la reine - yellows to warm up, climbing very nervously as would be normal so so long indoors. Did the easiest 6A+ second go, don't know where that number came from. https://bleau.info/reine/9279.html
T - rest
W - Indoors, same as good session
Th - Nothing
Fr - Drei Zinnen, so-so, did some stuff, forgot to take blood pressure pills, not the best.
Sa -
Su - Brought my first ever suit at 46 yrs, not bad.
Oh, and lost all my car papers at one of the above locations which is going to be an administative nightmare ( 2 driving licenses and 1 carte grise...insurance..)
Hoping someone finds it and sends it back.
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Goals:
Good trip to Magic end of June
Good trip to Dolomites September
72kg :spank: :spank: :spank: :spank: :spank: :spank: :spank: (was back down to 71 this morning though)
M - TCA, not much psyche after coming back from Pembroke night before, ended up just doing a bit of benchmarking on one arm hangs and one armers - Hangs on lattice edge: LH -8kg, RH -11kg. One armers on big lattice rung: LA -3kg, RA -5kg. was interesting that of the three of us doing it, I was the worst at the hangs but the best at the one armers.
T - Run after work, 5m, felt a bit harder than last week but still surprisingly ok, nice to get out in the sun.
W - TCA, a few blacks, not very productive
T - TCA, bit more enthusiasm, made some progress on the red left of mothership
F -
S -
S - Quick hour at TCA while Chloe was at a birthday party, few 7A's on the moonboard, really enjoyed those, might try to do a bit more on this, at least until they reset the hard circuit.
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Su - Brought my first ever suit at 46 yrs, not bad.
I hate you.
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Put on almost all the weight I lost before the Scotland trip, cut starts again today!
Welcome to Scotland! You should try living here, each day is a fight against obesity.
Seriously though, good effort making it up to the Glen, it's not a bad spot. Squelch is a goodie and I'm sure Malc's would only be a matter of time with those guns! :strongbench:
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Thanks Nibile, still Easter for many people.
Some good squeals Coops!
Duma, long or short stuff in the Dolomites?
STG - Manage aches, pains and sniffles. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before. Something on the Marmolada this summer?
LTG - 5.13 at 60
M - Stretches
T - Fingerboard (hangs). A short but decent session, a bit premature as shoulder quite sore after.
W - Sore shoulder
T - Shoulder strength work
F - Shoulder strength work
S - Fingerboard (pick-ups): 17mm edge x40kg. Shoulder strength work.
S - Shoulder strength work
Sick all week but you just have to keep chipping away.“parvis imbutus tentabis grandia tutus”.
Plan: recover from cold and tweaky shoulder; get outside this weekend if I do.
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Su - Brought my first ever suit at 46 yrs, not bad.
I hate you.
I’m struggling to cope not having bought one this month.
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Had many goes on Malc's and managed to get to the throw to lip but couldn't quite hold the lip. Finished by getting shut down on the sit to Squelch. Scottish grades are stiff.
Not that's it's much use now but perhaps if you head back. I went for the lip with my left. A local assured me going with the right was the only way, i don't know how true this is. But i spent a fair few goes not doing it with the right before it went fairly quickly with the left. I think it was height thing.
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Brilliant, Coops!
Is everyone else on holiday or what?
It is Easter holidays here, but nevertheless not much to report for me...I spent most of last week recovering from my second serious virus of 2018 (this one put me in hospital!).
Went back to work on Thurs / Fri but no training or exercise to speak of. Been trying to keep up my shoulder rehab from Tim and to that effect now have a battery of weird-looking devices purchased from Amazon to pummel myself with.
Back on it this week now I'm feeling 100% (or high 90s at least), gym session on lunch and hopefully get to the wall this week too.
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Had many goes on Malc's and managed to get to the throw to lip but couldn't quite hold the lip. Finished by getting shut down on the sit to Squelch. Scottish grades are stiff.
Not that's it's much use now but perhaps if you head back. I went for the lip with my left. A local assured me going with the right was the only way, i don't know how true this is. But i spent a fair few goes not doing it with the right before it went fairly quickly with the left. I think it was height thing.
A height thing being that going with left is easier for the tall or short? Cheers for the beta
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Had many goes on Malc's and managed to get to the throw to lip but couldn't quite hold the lip. Finished by getting shut down on the sit to Squelch. Scottish grades are stiff.
Not that's it's much use now but perhaps if you head back. I went for the lip with my left. A local assured me going with the right was the only way, i don't know how true this is. But i spent a fair few goes not doing it with the right before it went fairly quickly with the left. I think it was height thing.
A height thing being that going with left is easier for the tall or short? Cheers for the beta
Going with left easier for short, possibly. I found going with the right at the limit of what I could jump so although I could get my hand over the hold I was swinging to wild to hold it. Less swing going with the left but possibly a hard move to hold :shrug:
See this video
https://vimeo.com/233368447
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Ah yes, I see. Potentially harder for me that way as I found that hold you used for your right v. bad indeed. Stronger fingers are always the answer :look:
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Stronger fingers are always the answer :look:
Indeed
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11.1-4 (Average 156.9 down 0.1lb on last week )
M. Malham cancelled. Home board instead. Fingerboard warm up then working the Oak problems. Nearly did the three Oak problems back-to-back failing to hold the ‘horn’ on the throw move. Persuaded down the Works by Ben and Tom. Joined by Seb. Had a good time despite myself. Didn’t get up anything of note
T. Foundry Wave. . Warm up on auto belay then a bunch of level 2’s
W.
T,
F. Malham but Oak wet -so joined Paul on Bat route and tried the crux bulge. Felt much stronger than when I last went on it. Best go from bolt above SA belay to going for jug (couldn’t face going for tooth). Definitely feels doable so having it as the next project is not entirely a delusional fantasy. Did get powered out pretty quick though and cut by Paul’s criticism that I had no depth /session endurance . Not that it was untrue but not nice to have your face rubbed in it when other aspects going well. Following day realised that was probably down to a minor bug.
S. Felt wiped out. Went back to bed in the afternoon
S. Fingerboard warmup then out with Ben to Anston. Woodys fairly condensed but decided to try to dry the holds with partial success. Got the third move of Soul Crusher which eluded me at beginning of Feb. Just got to link them now. Went on board when we got back mainly to show Ben the Oak problem. Like on Monday nearly did a set back to back
Cancelled going to Malham on Monday (apparently the Oak was still wet) but will go Friday. Need to be going on the route twice a week for a month to have a decent shot at it but assuming it is dry on Friday that will be an 18 day gap. Did manage to complete a protracted property deal last week so that’s something. Also managing to keep my weight under reasonable control despite the poor weather. Also would have been nice to boulder outside with Ben more whilst he's home from uni. :(
Slip slidin' away
You know the nearer your destination
The more you're slip slidin' away
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Coops - beast! love it. You always look like you try hard but don't always sound like it. I'll be channeling your power hoots next time I'm projecting your warm ups.
M-5k run, kettlebells. More f***ing snow.
T-5x1k intervals. Long walk.
W-5k run.
T-Works pinkles (v easy) and the usual 40kg fingerboard session.
F-Finally a dry non-work day. RHS with kids. Seriously people where was everyone? It's easter. Kids are presumably not in school. I had the place to myself and my two brats.
S-10k run
S-At the risk of oversharing, having my mojo progressively crushed by life I ended up at Curbar without car, a mat or shoes. Just for somewhere to go. Inspired by two lads there bouldering without a mat (which seems as old fashioned as smoking on a bus) I performed a shoe-less and mat-less and flaw-less "warm-up" of Trackside 7A before getting on with the day. It right cheered me up.
After driving to Raven Tor (wet!) and Rubicon (wet!) I had a really enjoyable session at Plantation. New ticks included Steep 6C flash (overgraded?) and Popp's Pop 6B (cool problem - easy when you know how!). Worked Hook 7B but no cigar. Also, it appears Zippy's has gone from something I had to put four or five sessions into as my first 7B three years ago to something I now do first time every time which is, no brag, a nice feeling for someone who considered (still considers) themselves a full weight punter. I'll do that barefoot next mebee...
STG: Hook 7B, maybe one day something with a higher grade but I could be less fussed.
MTG: Lifetime project. Surely it's just a question of waiting for all 8 planets to line up and for the birth of a three eyed raven. Either that or for it to stop raining just for a few minutes!
Life Goal: To enjoy whatever climbs/not-climbs I am doing.
Taken a (massive?) step to re-shifting the balance this week by going part time at work. Time will tell.
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Brilliant, Coops!
Is everyone else on holiday or what?
Yup...
M > Fri Morocco with family...
Sa: Quick 90 min at the Depot (to try and stave off the decline)
Su: Off to Vienna. Work.
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Week and a bit:
M AnCap - brilliant session, love this workout, current circuit is great but only failed final move of final rep so probably too easy and needs resetting.
T - HI AeroCap - rubbish session but had only been out of bed 10 minutes and a two minute warm up wasn't really sufficient. Flew to Tenerife.
W - nowt, picked up hire pad.
Th - first session at Arico in the evening, sector Alto, rock raining the heat out the day and absolutely baking even in shade. Tried a number of 7a/+s but only made an impression on one arete but couldn't do the first move.
F - early morning, different sector - Bajo. connies much better, only 13c when I parked up at 7:30. Unfortunately most thing faced the rising sun so still hard going, realised the magnificent 7b wasn't gong to go, tried a 7A+ but couldn't do the first, somewhat contrived, move off a scabby sika crimp with no footholds, should have felt right at home really. Managed the 6c version starting a move higher.
S - got back to the house in the evening to found it overcast, only 17c and very windy, dashed out to Alto but it was more of a quick miss. Spent a lot of time squirming around in the dust under 5 problems trying to contort into a position to pull off the ground.
S nowt
M - morning to bajo, had id'd 4 problems to try, 3 were immediate non starters for either height or slopiness and the other another frustrating pull-on for which none of the 27 available footholds seemed to work . Found a great looking 7a, 45 degrees on decent crimps and rough slopers. Boom, perfect board style problem, should be ok here. Inevitably, couldn't do the first move.
T bonus session having found we didn't have to be out of the house at 10. Sector Alto, first time in the morning, huge difference, managed a load of quick 6s to warm up then got stuck into the arete from Thursday and sussed the first move. Was getting the move every other go but the subsequent moves were much harder for having done the start and kept coming off, nearly did it and thought it was just a matter of time but as the sun rose the shadow of the bush behind me started melting when the face and once it reached the start holds that was that.
Enjoyable week despite the lack of success, very pleasant place to be alone as dawn broke or dusk encroached. Climbing's not the greatest and certainly not holiday grades but better than not climbing.
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having it as the next project is not entirely a delusional fantasy.
is how I misread it
I love that you are thinking about your next siege
(I have climbed 9 days out of the last 11 in Font with 2 days remaining)
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(I have climbed 9 days out of the last 11 in Font with 2 days remaining)
:2thumbsup: a proper treat for you
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Cancelled going to Malham on Monday (apparently the Oak was still wet) but will go Friday. Need to be going on the route twice a week for a month to have a decent shot at it but assuming it is dry on Friday that will be an 18 day gap.
Are you still going? Interested to hear a report, I'm pretty keen to try to actually get out on the rock in the UK in 2018....
Might go up next Thursday my guess is it'll feel excessively busy at the weekend as there'll be a pretty limited choice of routes.
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Hi Toby
Yes - two car loads going tomorrow of Britain’s finest and me. Also heading up mon. Will post connies on FB
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Its been grey but not actually raining in Ilkley since Tuesday, although we had a bit today. Surely has to be better than last week!