UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Alex Smurthwaite on November 22, 2017, 08:08:45 pm
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Having had a pulley injury at the start of this year, started wondering how many pulley injuries you could have before they become completely shot and beyond repair.
What do people reckon?
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x+2
with x being the number you have already had.
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The answer is, don't think about it.
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Depends on the seriousness of each injury: strain, partial tear (of varying degrees), full rupture?
Could always change the game! Climb cracks, slopers, pockets, anything you don't have to crimp.
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None, your tendons get stronger and you learn to identify and avoid potentially injurious situations.
The frequency of my pulley tweaks have decreased over the years, despite my climbing slanting more and more towards bouldering and training. (campusing, weighted hangs, repeaters, steep boards etc)
I don't think I've had a tweek in the last 5 years.
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I have had more finger issues than a p0rn stars had throbbing shafts, mine have all healed up every time some take a month others take best part of a year. My ring fingers used to tweak all the time but I have not tweaked either in a year (touch wood) it's my middle fingers that go now..
Unless you full rupture your body will heal it's just how well you deal with the he stress/annoyance of being out injured, I find this part the hardest and has almost convinced me to quit a few times.
Careful use of holds is good advice as well as being aware of your body I.e if you're tired, not warmed up etc
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I have had more finger issues than a p0rn stars had throbbing shafts, mine have all healed up every time some take a month others take best part of a year. My ring fingers used to tweak all the time but I have not tweaked either in a year (touch wood) it's my middle fingers that go now..
Unless you full rupture your body will heal it's just how well you deal with the he stress/annoyance of being out injured, I find this part the hardest and has almost convinced me to quit a few times.
Careful use of holds is good advice as well as being aware of your body I.e if you're tired, not warmed up etc
Not entirely sure that climbing on my board on tiny crimps when not fully warmed up, did me much good! Spend about half my session time warming up now!
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When I'm healed up I'll be avoiding ratty holds and focusing on harder moves on bigger holds as recommended by a friend of mine who happens to be strong as fuck, he switched from small holds to hard moves on bigger holds because if finger issues and he's got so much stronger
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Obviously you'll want to re introduce small holds at some point ;)
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Obviously you'll want to re introduce small holds at some point ;)
Starting using small crimps again but anything that looks remotely tweaky i try and stay away from. Mainly weird pockets and monos. Although used a mono outdoors a few days ago and was pleasantly suprised to see my finger still attached to my hand! ;)
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None, your tendons get stronger and you learn to identify and avoid potentially injurious situations.
The frequency of my pulley tweaks have decreased over the years, despite my climbing slanting more and more towards bouldering and training. (campusing, weighted hangs, repeaters, steep boards etc)
I don't think I've had a tweek in the last 15 years.
Me neither, touch wood. My elbows or shoulders seem to go long before my fingers do these days. I did loads in my early years though, so much scar tissue on knuckles my fingers barely touch...