UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: jwi on October 07, 2017, 10:20:03 am
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Fanatic climbing has a big interview with Seb Bouin on training that seems quite relevant to the current topic on how to fit in fingerboarding with climbing. Nevertheless, I post it as a new topic
http://fanatic-climbing.com/entrainement-projets-et-falaise-avec-seb-bouin-training-projects-and-redpointing-with-seb-bouin/
Scroll past the original French to get a translation to English. When the translator is unaware of the English terms they just write it in French. So the following hints may help: PPG=general conditioning, PPS=specific conditioning. "Influx" = Neural drive.
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I spent a while at the crag (plus a few bars) with Seb when he spent a month trying La Rambla last year. There's a few traveling climbers who join the local wall, in Cornudella, as much for the shower as for the fingerboards but Seb joined the local gym for €30 for a month. He often went for a conditioning session after maybe 5 good burns on his project, when the rest of us were thinking about food and beer.
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What was missing from the interview was a discussion on diet. Seb's monster-days of climbing and training are definitely helped by the fact that he eats three times as much as the average high-end sport climber. IMHO.
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Interesting - The few European lads I know well enough to call friends all eat pretty much the average climbing bum's diet. Shared communal meals in the evening, plenty of bread at the crag and a steady flow of alcohol. Seb isn't any different and certainly enjoys his food and drink, maybe that's the reason he can put two full days together and train after? Contrast that to time I've spent with wads here who often seem obsessed with food, as they are often restricting it for a project.
I spent a bit of time with Gasper Pinter and over dinner one night we chatted about anorexia in climbing - he saw it as a big problem in the competition scene, which he used to be part of. When he ticked his first 9a a month or so later, he drank beer and whisky every night after dinner (with a guilty conscience) and he had a good appetite, whatever was leftovers, he would have!