UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Danny on August 10, 2017, 03:00:22 pm
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*Warning: trivial and specific training related question*
Given the complete lack of a decent wall in my locality (and lack of funds/time to build a woodie) I've started taking fingerboarding a bit more seriously. I've recently switched from repeaters to max hangs and, since my edges are homemade, I started wondering about what constitutes a 20 mm edge. At the mo I have ~25 mm and ~14 mm that I'm hanging from, but the exact depth depends on whether you measure across the flat area of the edge, or the entire width including any rounding.
So is there a convention? Do you even care? Etc.
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Without having my BM2000 and tape measure to hand.. iirc I consider the bottom middle rung to be 20mm, and the two deep slots with an AA battery 'size-reducer'TM insert to also be 20mm. Full width including any rounding.
One 20mm edge isn't the same as the next - I find the battery-reduced slots harder to hang than the bottom middle.
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I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.
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I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.
This.
I always measure from the face.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Made a rubbish joke, so deleted.
Serious comment. How much rounding on the edges do people do to avoid finger injuries?
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Good knowledge. Especially the battery trick. I guess rounding til comfortable and no more—maybe a 3 mm radius. Though if you're half crimping it's maybe redundant, unlike open hangs.
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Made a rubbish joke, so deleted.
Serious comment. How much rounding on the edges do people do to avoid finger injuries?
It depends.
If I'm making something with a slight incut, like a Campus rung, I use an R5 router bit (or for a >20mm deep edge) or a 3 for smaller or flats. When I made my 8mm edges, I just took the sharpness off with a rasp and 120 grit.
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I personally count the rounding in, because obviously it gets surface contact with the skin.
So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood and then I round its edge.
This.
I always measure from the face.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Indeed. Roundedness is personal choice, but obviously makes a big difference in what you can hang. a much bigger difference open handed, but still impacts half crimp.
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I get nervous about finger injuries since I'm not exactly light. :-) Probably more rounded is better for me.
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Without having my BM2000 and tape measure to hand.. iirc I consider the bottom middle rung to be 20mm, and the two deep slots with an AA battery 'size-reducer'TM insert to also be 20mm. Full width including any rounding.
One 20mm edge isn't the same as the next - I find the battery-reduced slots harder to hang than the bottom middle.
I thought the big slots with AA batteries were ~ 18mm when I measured them on mine. Definitely (significantly) smaller than the bottom middle rung, and smaller than a lattice rung. If you use AAA batteries they might be more equivalent (but I haven't tried it)?
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Just had a look.. 18mm on the flat / 20mm including rounding by my measure.
The bottom middle is more like 20mm on the flat / 22 including rounding
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So if I want to make a 20 mm edge, I buy a 20 mm thick piece of wood
Bingo.