UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Pewtle on March 31, 2017, 10:14:24 am
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Hey injury fans
Has anyone experienced this before? I was open handed on a chip on a volume around shoulder height, and slipped with my other hand, shock loading the left hand. I *think* I heard something go ping, and now I have pain through the flexor muscles in my forearms (flexor carpi I think), radiating all the way down to the medial epicondyle when I extend my ring finger. Weirdly, crimping is pain free (apart from a bit of stiffness), but as soon as I go open handed and drop my pinky I get proper stabbing pains.
Has anyone had anything similar? I've got a GP appointment next week so I can get a referral, but I find its always best to have an idea of what it is when going in.
Ta
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Yes. Classic flexor unit strain. It will probably hurt to open hand, but won't be so bad on crimps. Stretching (in my experience) makes it worse. Take a wee bit of time off then get back on it, but just avoid anything that hurts, split fingers etc.
Some have had more success with stretching.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=18501.0
Flexor Unit Strain :spank: Sorry Dr J:
http://drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr-j-issue-193/
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Thanks man, that's really helpful.
Turning 30 in the summer and my body is already giving up :boohoo:
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Prime of youth mate. Give it another 10 or so.
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Prime of youth mate. Give it another 10 or so.
10 weeks? Days? Hours?
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I think you know. When he says turning 30, the number is traditionally associated with a standard duration.
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I currently have one of these, from a similar scenario, although mine doesn't sound as bad.
I found buddy taping to the next finger didn't help.
Light stretching seemed to help, my forearms were quite tight.
Giving my forearms a thorough massage after climbing with deep heat seemed to help too.
I started carefully loading my fingers in the position that had been injured after ~3/4 weeks with good improvement so far.
I didn't have to reduce my climbing intensity, just had to be more selective in the type of climbing I did.