UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: csl on July 03, 2016, 04:07:33 pm
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STG - the next 6 weeks
Rehab finger - going well, barely feeling anything now.
Get on an 8a - not managed yet
MTG - next 3 months
Tick a few off this list
Dominatrix, New Dawn, Biological Need, Tennessee, Paradise Lost, Realm of Chaos, Colours, Stay Golden, Frazzled
LTG - end of year
8a
Tue
Arch Building One
Boulders - up to V5
15 mins Arc
Wed
Arch Building One
Morning
Boulders up to V6
40 mins Arc
Evening
Went to benchmark PE on Foot on Campus
Managed a surprise PB of 5 minutes, up a minute on time before going to Ceuse
Rep 1. 5 minutes
Rep 2. 3.40
Rep 3. 2 - stopped due to painful skin more than pump.
Sun
Meant to get out, but plans fell through. Went to Biscuit factory for a session on the new comp wall set. Started off a bit shit, but got into it and managed a V7? and quite a few V5/6 ish problems.
15 mins Arc
Good week - finger rehab going fine, felt ok crimping today on hard for me stuff. Gotta keep an eye on it though. Shame not to get out, next opportunity is a month or so away now due to non stop weddings this month.
I have a question for anyone whose followed a periodised plan before... I tapered for my trip to Ceuse at the start of June, but really only managed a week of climbing after training for 6 months, life got in the way and i haven't really made the most of the fitness I gained.
So, how long do people tend to maintain their peak? And how do you maintain it? I'm unsure whether to try and top up strength + PE and aim for an 8a by the end of the summer, or to go back to the start of a periodised plan and aim to peak again for a trip to Spain in December? Any opinions welcome!
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STG (up to sept): Metal Guru, Smouldering Globules of Lust, 7th Aardvark and Personal Services
LTG (up to end of 2016): As much classic yorkshire trad as possible. Keep on shoulder rehab.
Mon: Supposed to go to High Tor but ended up at Kinsey. Pulled up to the first bolt of Nerve Ending and put clips in. Lowered off and went straight back up first go. Went up Metal Guru bolt to bolt. Wicked route. Starting to enjoy sport climbing again. Really cool climbing. Went up bolt to bolt a second time but felt tired and shoulder was aching.
Tue:
Wed: Depot session. Just did lots of easy problems. Got quite pumped trying to do sets of two V4's back on the low roof.
Thurs: High Tor with Tom. Seconded Supersonic clean which I was pretty pleased with. Could see a massive difference in my climbing from two weeks before. I need to start getting on some hard leads.
Fri:
Sat: Party
Sun: Party/ knackered
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Thurs: High Tor with Tom. Seconded Supersonic clean which I was pretty pleased with.
I was there on Thursday with Bonjoy. You must have been the team which started on Original Route
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A catch up:
13th June:
Mon: Max hangs
Tue: Rings
Wed: Swim
Thu: Power problems
Fri: Run
Sat: Nowt
Sun: Fly to Bilbao. Spend most of the day trying to find any supermarket that's open. Fail. Drive to Santa Gadea. House we're staying in is lovely, owner really sound. Intend to scope out the climbing but end up having beer and food instead.
Mon: Roasting, but go climbing anyway. Valley looks amazing, rock absolutely everywhere:
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7355/27986572671_96a805be08_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JD5v22)
Spend half an hour trying a techy wall with a horrendously sloping topout. Feeling exceptionally smug when I work out the beta and get it. Later discover it's a 6A, which just about sets the level for the rest of the trip...
Go to supermarket, then drive over to the lake (Embalse del Ebro, huge nearby reservior). Can't resist having a swim. Go back and have BBQ. Think this was the evening we went climbing again. Shitloads of flies (small bluebottle types, non bitey but most irritating). Do a few cool easy probs, go on a massive trek to find more lines. Not much climbable in the heat, bit demoralised so we head back.
Tue: Get up, go climbing. Bloody roasting again, but find the most well developed area (Mordor) and spend the next few hours running around like a kid in a sweet shop. Sweat my way up some desperate 5's then work out most of the moves on La Muerte Loca (slopy, high, fucking great). Sack it off as too hot, drive down to lake for swimming.
Wed: Get up really early (5.30), go climbing. Temps much better in shade, although still warm. Finally get the right beta for La Muerte Loca but bottle the topout. Do some other moderate problems, fall off some more highballs. Sun comes over and get roasted, so go and find a localish waterfall. Great walk with everyone through wooded valley, dunk in freezing waterfall pool.
Thu: Get up early again and head straight out. Get most of the beta sorted for El Angel (techy wall with mono's to...err...another sloping topout), sun coming over though so head round the corner to try some other stuff. Fail to do the second move on a cool looking but brutal 7a (massive sandbag at the grade), then flash some mid 6's. Beginning to feel like I'm getting dialled in, despite the high temps. Once again bottle out of the last moves on a 7a highball, then head back for an afternoon visit to some more waterfalls (stunning man-made pools, village on a cliff).
Fri: Moving on to the Picos today, but actually some cloud and drizzle in Santa Gadea(!). Temps possibly below 25(!!). Go climbing despite dampness. Luckily it appears that the boulders are in something of a rain-shadow, and conditions are suddenly much better than at any point previously; stuff that had felt impossible to pull on to suddenly began to click. Bloody great morning; much to my surprise manage to stick the pop-to-the-sloper move on El Angel; K does her first outdoor 5 and D has great time pretending to be a train running around the rocks. Meet others having a crack at a 7A+ roof, get the beta and have a few really good goes (annoyingly later discovered that I didn't see a slot that might have hauled me off the mantle :( ). Leave for Picos.
El Angel:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7615/28063724795_ef55dac7c0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JKTVE4)IMG_4448 (https://flic.kr/p/JKTVE4)
Roof:
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7569/27450096554_fc555f5f0e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HPEVmN)IMG_4514 (https://flic.kr/p/HPEVmN)
Really chuffed to get El Angel. If you'd told me before going that the hardest thing I'd get up would be 6C+ I'd have been pretty disappointed to say the least. Suffice to say however that I came away with a whopping smile on my face and had a really ace trip; the climbing is hard and subtle, the food and hospitality was ace, and the landscape is stunning. Already planning to go back, although this time I'd aim for May or Oct/Nov to do harder stuff.
Most of the training I did wasn't really that useful; I suspect I focused too much on the wrong kind of problems and it took some time to get dialled in to the local style (read: be less shit at climbing). The work on the rings most definitely paid off though (especially dips), and probably if my topping out was better things would have felt significantly more comfortable.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7553/27450095054_e6e9e24ca5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HPEUUW)IMG_4435 (https://flic.kr/p/HPEUUW)
Sat-Tue: Pootling round the Picos. Didn't do any climbing, but got really psyched to come back and try some of the big mountain routes.
Wed: Back home :(
Thu: Nowt
Fri: Pootle at TCA
Sat: Nowt
Sun: 4.5km run
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Thurs: High Tor with Tom. Seconded Supersonic clean which I was pretty pleased with.
I was there on Thursday with Bonjoy. You must have been the team which started on Original Route
That was us :wave: Really enjoyed the climbing there, will be back for Flaky Wall!
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Goals:
July - 2 more weeks of school/season - finish off Celebration, Stung or Moatside, OS Pickpocket or another E4.
Summer - train
Autumn - climb dry, nest free rock.
M - nowt
T - no partner so went to Two Tier with a pad to try the starts of Minos and Entree. Hard and harder.
w - rest
Th - Two Tier, started up Celebration to warm up ahead of Minos and enjoyed it so much I stuck with it. Always thought a slabby traverse would be a bit shit but I'm very wrong, it's brilliant. And Minos now seems a bit shit, psyche totally gone for that.
Two working goes then two redpoints, fell off both having made the usual mistake of not properly sorting transitions around bolts while working it. In two halves though with a quick rest. Keen to get back on it and maybe try Abba.
F undecided what to do so warmed up in garage, few hard boulder attempts. Almost went soloing easy stuff but it rained, almost went bouldering at the Tor but couldn't be arsed. Drove to Foundry not knowing what I'd do when I got there and debating all the way whether to turn round and go do something else.
1/2 AeroPow boulder workout
LI AeroCap on new autobelays.
Core eve
S rest
S rest
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That looks fucking amazing Hugh!
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M: Lunch - 15 mins Aerocap.
Dinbren - Back on long term proj Flowers are for the Dead (7c).
Worked out beta that I'm finally happy with, hard move near the start felt easier than ever. No highpoint on 3 redpoints but refined beta is good, PE is woeful.
T: Deadhangs - 20mm slightly incut.
1: 10secs 2: 10secs 3: 10secs 4: 10secs (+2.5kg) 5:10secs (+5kg) 6: 9secs (+10kg)
W: Deadhangs - 20mm slightly incut.
1: 10secs 2: 10secs 3: 10secs 4: 10secs (+2.5kg) 5: 9secs (+10kg) 6: 9secs (+10kg)
T: 15mins Aerocap - 2 x (5on, 5off x 6) repeaters.
F: Core
S: Plas Power - Took my son to the wall, he did better than ever and made the route he used to struggle with a bit look easy, pulling on bolt holes was rather impressive to watch 3 year old do!
Repeated some of my old problems up to 7A and did a bit of aerocap.
S: Dinbren - Back on the proj
RP1: Fell off before previous high point
RP2: New high point and split a tip
RP3: Same as RP1.
RP4: Even higher high point greased off on sloper trying to clip 3rd bolt, landed on belayers head...
RP5: Taped finger ripped off small edge low down, painful!
RP6: Basicly a no go fell off first hard move, stipped route and toppyed the last couple of bolts easy sectioned twice.
Closer than ever, after sporadicly trying it for 3 years. Should probably stick at it now. Didn't realise I'd done so much in the days before today so should go fresh and in good conditions, psyched!
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Best wishes for a good recovery to fellow power clubbed Toby
Thanks again everyone! FYI I slipped clipping a first bolt at Malham and broke skull and wrist. Use your clipstick everyone. Had an emergency head operation and due for a wrist op soon. All the thoughts are much appreciated Tx
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Fuck! Hope you're ok Toby, and recovery goes well
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Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June
69kg.
Body Audit: background shoulder ache is becoming more annoying, seems to be worse/aggravated by driving. Might book in with physio soon if no respite.
M: No psyche, but starting nights and didn't want to waste the week, so dragged self to Neath in pm. Hot, and sticky in the trees, a little better out, but still very sub optimal conditions. Nothing hard, but ticked off a few more from one of the STGs, including the excellent Hillside Arete 6C. Cheered me up loads.
T: TCA in eve. Jonny was back, made a big difference having someone there who was also keen to try hard, most of my sessions in June seem to have been on my own. Bit of a beta tweak saw one of the last blues go down, and bit more psyche meant I got the last one too! Really chuffed to finish this circuit off, had pretty much given up on it.
W: quick hour at TCA before work, didn't get much done, but worked out the moves on Joe's new "8a" (read: 8b)
T: TCA with daughter after school, bit of bimbling for me.
F: finished nights. 4 hrs sleep, then Biblins with Jonny. Excellent session, aims were Tears of the Angels 7C+, Freshly Squeezed 7B+, and to try the moves on Godzilla 8A+. Success on all fronts! (didn't try the last move on Godzilla) Got tears second go from the start after working out/remembering the moves. Jonny did Godzilla for his first of the grade, was cool to see.
S: was going to be Huntsham, but the forecast crapped out so we went to dartmoor instead. Showers every hr or so, but with the sun and wind things dried out pretty instantly. Nothing hard, but lovely afternoon at honeybag on low 6's, some great problems.
S: drive to North Wales, then Lily Savage boulders in Ogwen. Paul O Grady (6C+) and the sit (7B/+) are just brilliant! LS itself less so, though maybe just because I couldn't do it.
Brilliant week, great to have the psyche back, and be getting out on some great problems.
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Damn toby hope you fix up well!
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:( heal well Toby - that's grim.
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Oh Toby, you've always been so careful about that. Heal fast fella.
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STG: General training/body maintenance
MTG: Zoo York and The Fonze before end of year.
LTG: 8B
M: Full body workout
T: Depot. casual.
W: Gym ball core week 5
T: Depot. Brief session on the 50 and campus board. 1-5 1-4-6.5 easy. Elbows not great so moved on.
F:
S: Rain
S: Brimham. Excellent summer breeze. Almost too cold for a tee shirt in the shade. Climbed 5 new problems which I can't believe I've overlooked till now, including Black Dog Arete 6C and Fantasy League 7A+, which are both bon. Also tried out some new beta for The Fonze 8A, which makes it considerably easier. The whole problem just boils down to one foot move. Psyched for winter!
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VTSG: Get back in shape (seems to be happening well)
STG: Louis Armstrong
MTG: More 8B's
LTG: Hubble
M; Short run, felt knackering but good to be doing something
T; Car fixed so went for a wall session, feeling better now that the start of last week but finger tips a bit battered
W; Rest
T;Rest
F; At a wedding but was driving so no drinking for me
S; Rest
S; Wall session, getting back into shape
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STG: climb as many 7A/+ and 7b-7c as possible. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Get into shape for Spain
3. Tick unfinished business list (5/13).
4. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.
M - Finished nights. Dropped a padlock on my toe. Slept a few hours. Forgot local wall shut for day. Drove all the way there. Drove home.
T - Board session. Good. Toe really painful in shoes. Most annoying.
W - Rest.
T - Portland, bouldering. Progressed by one move on a project. Very right pinch intensive, difficult to do much else. Not hugely satisfying but progress is progress.
F - Flying visit to Red Spider. Warm up, unexpected accent of a board project and then 6 laps of ancap circuit. Meant to do some ARC afterward, only had 5 mins before having to leave for work. Good session though.
S - Rest
S - Cuttings with girlfriend to do some easy routes. After that had a single go on Modern Nightmare, a 7a I couldn’t start many years ago. Fell off two moves from top after missing massive jug. Interesting just how incredibly pumped I got in the space of two seconds, zero to boxed almost instantly. Weakness to consider for Spain in January.
Better climb something this week.
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Toby, I hope the injuries are not too serious. Heal well.
STG: Maintain good shoulder rehab. habits. Try an E5...E4? (post-Ceuse confidence waning gone). Lose 2.5 kgs.
MTG: various LH&F - Excalibur, Wendenstock; Rabada-Navarro, Naranjo de Bulnes; Sea-cliff E5 by the end of Summer.
LTG: Font 7a. Sport 7b+. Something long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).
M - Westway fridge bouldering: to V2/3.
T - Shoulder strength/stability exercises. Das Rheingold.
W - Westway oven bouldering: to V2/3. Die Walkure.
T - Shoulder strength/stability exercises.
F - Siegfried.
S - Wintour’s Leap with Wil. Did the excellent Kangaroo Wall (E2) and had a brief tussle with Split Flies (E3 6a) before thinking better of it and finishing with the rather exciting Ecliptic (E1) instead. Tired all day and the solo drive didn’t help.
S - Gotterdammerung.
Busy week with teaching, performance review (I still have a job, it may change in emphasis), 16 hours of Wagner (the excellent Opera North Ring cycle), but still managed some decent training. Wintour’s was a bit of a shock - damp shiny limestone and proper grades - but Kangaroo Wall is very good. Feeling my lack of trad. miles so far this year, only the second day placing gear since last summer.
Plan: more of the same. Hope to get away both days next weekend. Anyone interested in some SW sea-cliff action?
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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Get well soon Toby.
M. Core and mobility sesh
T.
W. Tor. Partner couldn't make it so bouldered. Worked out the moves on Weedkiller Traverse then did it.
T. Kettlebell workout
F.
S. Tot. Mecca sesh 6. Refined the traverse. Then managed to make the drop knee work to get the razor backhand, minor progress! Need to refine drop knee as having to go off bottom foothold makes throw to ear too stretched. Did groove to chains without much difficulty on 2nd go up, but then powered out on it on my third go up.
S. Dulas Cave. Couple of warm-ups then got ass handed to me by a doylo 7b (Tony Stud). Pockets were wet though. Then worked out 'Yankee Doodle Pigeon' with beta from the man himself. Cool bouldery route - 7B on a rope. Felt like would have had a good chance of doing it in a sesh if fresh but too powered down from previous climbing. Skin trashed.
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Goals as per last week.
Mon - EMOM sets. Ab wheel, 20" pause x10, hard; pull ups, 4x10, 30" intervals, fine; muscle snatch 5x10, hard; cleans 3x10, 30" intervals, not too bad. Fast and furious.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest. Moved stuff.
Thu - as above.
Fri - as above.
Sat - rest.
Sun - PE low intensity, new PB at 3'40". Yay! Inverted pyramids sets, clean and jerk and pull ups, 30" pauses. Hard. 27,5 degrees.
Hard hard week with lots of alcohol and random eating at night. Survived during the day on coffee and protein shakes, seemed to work. Limiting damages. Progress in the PE is fantastic. Too hot for anything serious, must test fingers soon.
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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Get well soon Toby.
M. Core and mobility sesh
T.
W. Tor. Partner couldn't make it so bouldered. Worked out the moves on Weedkiller Traverse then did it.
T. Kettlebell workout
F.
S. Tot. Mecca sesh 6. Refined the traverse. Then managed to make the drop knee work to get the razor backhand, minor progress! Need to refine drop knee as having to go off bottom foothold makes throw to ear too stretched. Did groove to chains without much difficulty on 2nd go up, but then powered out on it on my third go up.
S. Dulas Cave. Couple of warm-ups then got ass handed to me by a doylo 7b (Tony Stud). Pockets were wet though. Then worked out 'Yankee Doodle Pigeon' with beta from the man himself. Cool bouldery route - 7B on a rope. Felt like would have had a good chance of doing it in a sesh if fresh but too powered down from previous climbing. Skin trashed.
I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud
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Toby my best wishes for a quick and good recovery.
Mon: nothing
Tue: Board climbing. Too hot, but a good workout
Wed-Sat: nothing
Sun: sport climbing. Too hot and too tired. Bad day
Exhausting week with little sleep and too much eating and drinking.
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STG: Get fit/strong again! And heal new finger/hand injury
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport and find/do a project
LTG: 8A & 8a
Hand getting better, make or break says it's alright to climb on it as it only hurts if attempting pockets :)
M -
T - Weights and shoulder stability
W -
T -
F -
S -
S -
Week of rest, eating out and drinking beer, improvements this coming week I hope.
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Tu: Rubicon - pretty close to pre injury levels on a bigger tail...
We: Eve depot. Bumped into Galpinos - good session. Floaty.
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Mon: Skin still shattered from Rocklands. AM Crossfit. Lunchtime treadmill. PM deadhangs.
Tues: Rest day, unsurprisingly.
Wed: Lunchtime treadmill. PM bouldering at deadhangs.
Thurs: AM Crossfit. PM Treadmill.
Fri: Lunchtime crossfit. Seriously tough session. PM Treadmill.
Saturday: Short boulder session, followed by deadhangs.
Sunday: Good day out bouldering - did a couple of low to mid 7s and worked a hard 7C+.
Good training week, but feeling a little tired today..
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STG (July/August): get a couple of decent alpine rock routes done.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
UKB Kaisergebirge Expedition rained off again. Adjourned to Frankenjura
M:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. A session that started off feeling weak, but ended with my second indoor 6C+. Blue seems to be my lucky colour on plastic.
W: Bike one hour. Shoulder & upper back mobility.
T:
F: Drive to Frankenjura. Left early with hopes of sneaking a quick evening route in, but bad traffic getting out of town, and a navigation cockup trying to avoid said traffic, put paid to that idea.
S: Frankenjura. Raining. Went to the Grüne Hölle, which is steep enough not to be rained on, and played on Isolation*. Classic 'jura 6c+, very steep pocket pulling and well outside my mental comfort zone at first, but great fun after I'd got over the initial terror. Best effort ended with a slide off of soaking wet finishing holds after it started really raining.
S: Frankenjura. Not raining. Ticked supposedly the best easyish route in the entire 'jura in the morning (Schaumschläger, 6a+) and it was indeed really, really good. Then got my ass kicked on another classic 6c+. Seems I am still some way off having realistic onsight chances on these, especially when they are quite long with the crux right at the top.
All in all an excellent weekend.
* To the two people** who rated this "7b" on 8a.nu: get a grip.
** Although one of them is Mayan Smith-Gobat. Maybe it's *much* harder for the short.
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Nothing. I'm only checking in for my benefit.
Ankle sore as expected, tried to keep walking about on it in short bursts. Aircast arrived on Thursday. '50 euros for that!' the missus sn**gered at me. I tried it on Friday to go to work, really uncomfortable for the first 5 minutes, then felt super.
Hopefully an indoor session at the end of week, but I'll see. Should be doing some BM sessions, but I'm so unmotivated not touching rock. Can't even watch Vimeo vids, too depressing.
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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid July
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Get well soon Toby.
M. Core and mobility sesh
T.
W. Tor. Partner couldn't make it so bouldered. Worked out the moves on Weedkiller Traverse then did it.
T. Kettlebell workout
F.
S. Tot. Mecca sesh 6. Refined the traverse. Then managed to make the drop knee work to get the razor backhand, minor progress! Need to refine drop knee as having to go off bottom foothold makes throw to ear too stretched. Did groove to chains without much difficulty on 2nd go up, but then powered out on it on my third go up.
S. Dulas Cave. Couple of warm-ups then got ass handed to me by a doylo 7b (Tony Stud). Pockets were wet though. Then worked out 'Yankee Doodle Pigeon' with beta from the man himself. Cool bouldery route - 7B on a rope. Felt like would have had a good chance of doing it in a sesh if fresh but too powered down from previous climbing. Skin trashed.
I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud
It's a pile of eliminate reachy garbage. Not your finest hour on a rope. Only route in the 2nd edition that will get a black spot (because I didn't get up it).
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STG - be less sore
MTG - do routes
LTG - do more routes
M - Accident at work. A big (400kg) stainless steel grille fell over. on it's way it hit me in the face, knocked me over then landed on my back. The initial extent of the injury seemed to be a deep and very much bleeding cut on my nose...
T - However the rest of my body started complaining today, felt like I'd been hit by a train. Went to the training traverse wall after work and had a reasonable session all things considered.
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - Afternoon out, trad. Did a pumpy E4. Really struggled TBH, think (hope) it's after-effects of mondays adventures...
Still sore, face is healing up ok but back and neck are giving me a bit of grief. But nothing compared to Toby, get well soon beast.
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Nik and Toby, heal soon!
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I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud
It's a pile of eliminate reachy garbage. Not your finest hour on a rope. Only route in the 2nd edition that will get a black spot (because I didn't get up it).
It would be 3 stars at the Tor...
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Short update for me - having pulled my finger out the previous week and got a few HIIT classes in and even 2 session at the wall I picked up the predicable cold / man-flu lurgy that's been doing the rounds in our office.
Not sure if it's aging, being out of condition or something else but throughout this year, I get 1, 2 weeks into some kind of regular exercise (i.e. 4ish days out of 7) and then I'm ill for a week or two. Getting a bit tedious now.
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M - bike 40k
T - nothing
W - bike 43k. Got absolutely soaked.
T - bit of core and weights
F - bike 50k. Some showers.
S - Took kids out on bikes, and party in afternoon.
S - recovered from minor hangover, Mowed lawn
Finally got an appt for specialist to look at my thumb. Bumped it on Friday night and it was agony, and swelled up badly again. Something very wrong, can still only bend last joint to about 40 deg, and injured it at the end of April. Still, enjoying road biking weirdly. Odd to do something that feels fairly benign. And Strava is addictive.
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LTG 8A 8b, Crush in Swizzy.
STG Lou Ferrino
M.
T. One arm hangs.
W. Indoor bouldering, good session repeating lots of V6-8
T.
F. One arm hangs, feeling really strong again on these. No assistance on all hangs and holding well for at least 5 seconds in every position. Front levers, pushups and theraband too.
S.
S. Parisella's to try Lou Ferrino again. Getting shut down by the move into the first slot, heel popping off every time I take the toe hook out. Exactly the same as previous 2 sessions :wall: Annoyingly got past this previously but seem to be going backwards.
Also looked at Baby Buddha - wet, and tried to find corridors of power - where the fuck is it?!
Toby that's shit, heal well.
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S. Parisella's to try Lou Ferrino again. Getting shut down by the move into the first slot, heel popping off every time I take the toe hook out. Exactly the same as previous 2 sessions :wall: Annoyingly got past this previously but seem to be going backwards.
[/quote]
Which crimps are you on? If you use the left hand one with your right and use something further left, you have more 'room' to reach up to the slot. Works for me being taller (not done the problem yet), beta from Pete Robins.
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Yeah I've been using left hand on the good crimp, right hand on the terrible draggy thing. I'll try that next time.
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and tried to find corridors of power - where the fuck is it?!
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir//53.0938626,-4.0679676/@53.0941139,-4.069137,191m/data=!3m1!1e3
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I was waiting for a proper slagging of Tony Stud
It's a pile of eliminate reachy garbage. Not your finest hour on a rope. Only route in the 2nd edition that will get a black spot (because I didn't get up it).
It would be 3 stars at the Tor...
The bitter words of a 8b climber who's just failed on a 7b :whistle:
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Not so much training but a good week climbing..
Monday – High Tor
Party in the Park E5 6a, 6a, 6a
Pitches 2&3
Apres beers
Tuesday – Stoney
E5 right of Pickpocket
Pickpocket OS. Felt hard, tired !!
Apres beers
Weds – Rest day
6k run
Felt totally wasted all day
Thursday – PE session on my board. What a difference a day makes..
Big sesh
4 x 7c circuit
4x 7b circuit
4x 7a circuit
10 x boulder problems
3 x 15 pull ups
2 x 20 press ups.
Friday – High Tor
Sore
2 x E2
2 x E3
1 x E4
Lots of ale in the evening
Saturday – Hungover
Sunday – Hungover
6k run
A good week climbing wise but far to much ale !! Glad when Mr C goes back home !
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Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board trying some old problems with screw on footholds did 2 and failed on 2 got in to working things again.
Wed. Nothing
Thu. Board lots of goes on problems from Tuesday. Did one ,close on the other.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board did problem I'd been working 2nd go,did a harder finish to one of the others. Tried a few other things. 4 sets of repeaters with 25.5lbs added to finish.
Sun. Cleaning out gutters first thing, got a right pump on hanging trying to poke out grass of the gulleys with a clip stick. Bike 40 miles 2 hrs 17 mins did 3 sets of intervals.
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10.12 - 11.0
MTG eatswood Reverse 7C, Rattle & Hump 7B, Jericho Road 7B and Anger Management 8a+ at Raven Tor, Onsight Reproduction E6 High Tor. Get arse down to Pembroke. Try some new lines
M.
T. Systems board. Noon. 2 sets of An Cap this time. Did well despite boots crapping out PB 179 moves. Early eve did 2 sets of 20/10s doing the 10s on pinches 240 moves
W.
T. AM High Tor Bonjoy (our first time climbing together) He did some abseiling on Left Wing and I scoped out the ground on the second pitch of the new counter diagonal. Looked good. Decided to give it a shot. Started up Lyme Cryme and attempted Bromptons bulge but bottled it. Did the hard move over the bulge - then reversed it !! So much stronger than 3 years ago and so much crapper. Escaped up Lyme Cryme. Got John to lower me off at the top to try out the moves. Did them twice but think I did the right thing backing off as I wasnt mentally ready for itl. John had a go at Roadrunner. I had a dog up on his gear. Did all the moves and realised I'd gone the wrong way after the thread when I've failed on it before. John managed to redpoint it. Long day. Left at 7pm. Made a date to go back next Tuesday
F. Fingerboard. PM. Started at lunchtime but had to pop into office so 2.5hr break in middle. Dropped assisted weight again. Just 5kg+ assistance for right arm on large slot now.
S. Day trip to North Wales for Rob Barker's 50th. Dragged family through a bog to Gribbin Facet in Ogwen to rendezvous with the rest of the crew but they werent there. Blowy with squalls threatening. Magic spot. Set to work on Raging Bull 7A a crimpy traverse. Poppy and Tommy playing up. Got to jug at end of traverse but too powered out to do the final 5a pull up into the scoop. Sonia got blown over holding a bouldering mat and fell down between two boulders and knocked her head. Time to go. Met the others at Rhoscolyn. Good get together. Nice sunset. Skimmed stones on the beach. Drove back to Sheffield.
S. Gardening
Bummed about getting knocked back at High Tor. All part of the trad re-initiation. Got the new route bug again .
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Nik and Toby, heal soon!
Cheers Nibs, (very) luckily I seem to have got away with cuts and bruises. So all your positive thoughts can be directed at Toby, heal quick.
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F. Fingerboard. PM. Started at lunchtime but had to pop into office so 2.5hr break in middle. Dropped assisted weight again. Just 5kg+ assistance for right arm on large slot now.
To do what? Deadhang? One armer?
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F. Fingerboard. PM. Started at lunchtime but had to pop into office so 2.5hr break in middle. Dropped assisted weight again. Just 5kg+ assistance for right arm on large slot now.
To do what? Deadhang? One armer?
10 sec dead hangs straight armed and then with a 90 degree lock
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Cheers Shark. I don't have any meaningful comment to add I'm afraid, i was just curious.
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Cheers Shark. I don't have any meaningful comment to add I'm afraid, i was just curious.
I know what you're thinking....soo weak
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Hmmm let me think :lol:
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On the BM2000? If so, care to identify the large slot here:
(http://ukbouldering.com/media/images/bm.jpg)
Nein!
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The Lattice guys gave me that straight then 90 degree hang at the start of my program on slot 9, using assistance to keep the body square and target the correct shoulder muscles. It might come as a surprise when you try to hang square having always done it in line.
I'm guessing that's what Simon's doing.
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Not a BM. It is the depth of #4 but can accommodate 4 fingers though I'm doubtful I can hang #9 unassisted for 10 secs
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yeah so two joints, I remember now, that was the criteria for the hold to use.
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yeah so two joints, I remember now, that was the criteria for the hold to use.
Tom and Ollie are of the opinion that one arm hangs are the way to go to develop usable strength. Seemed a good excuse tho change my fingerboard routine as I was getting stale/plateaued on the previous one. I'm confident of doing unassisted 1 armers on #14 before the year is out or my money back - at least that is what I inferred
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Didn't work for me, after 7 months I was going backwards. Very fine line between too little assistance and too much. Probably depends how much assistance you need?
For now I'm going to continue with the big slot hangs for shoulder stability. But will be switching from hold 14 one armers to 1st joint, 2 arms with added weight.
Won't be bothering with multiple combinations though, 4f 1/2 crimp or F3 drag is all I'll do until I can manage unassisted one arm on 14.
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The Lattice guys gave me that straight then 90 degree hang at the start of my program on slot 9, using assistance to keep the body square and target the correct shoulder muscles. It might come as a surprise when you try to hang square having always done it in line.
I'm guessing that's what Simon's doing.
One armer hanging square is my next lifetime goal, as in I'll never manage it in this life :D
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same here, I can hang bodyweight on right arm but to stay square I have weight added to my harness and a counterweight on a pulley. Trying to hang free I just rotate out of it and end up in-line.
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Didn't work for me, after 7 months I was going backwards. Very fine line between too little assistance and too much. Probably depends how much assistance you need?
For now I'm going to continue with the big slot hangs for shoulder stability. But will be switching from hold 14 one armers to 1st joint, 2 arms with added weight.
Won't be bothering with multiple combinations though, 4f 1/2 crimp or F3 drag is all I'll do until I can manage unassisted one arm on 14.
Sorry to hear you went backward. Hope it doesnt go the same way for me. For reference I'll jot down my whole session below. Whole session can take 2 hours + as I have a few minutes rest between goes.
For warm-up to get fully recruited (my devising):
3 x 10 sec hang sloper
20mm edge 3 x 10 secs drag 3 x 10 secs half crimp 3 x 10 secs full crimp
18mm edge 1x10sec drag 1 x10 sec half crimp 1 x 10 sec full crimp
16mm edge 1x10sec drag 1 x10 sec half crimp 1 x 10 sec full crimp
Main hangs (Ollies devising)
Large slot +6.25kg assistence RH and +8.75kg assistence LH 3 x 10 secs hangs on each arm
Large slot +6.25kg RH and +8.75kg LH 3 x 10 secs hangs with a 90 degree lock on each arm
16mm edge +15kg added weight 3 x 10 secs (attempt)
Aim is after a few session is to replace the last set by doing it 1 armed on the 16mm edge instead with assistance
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The main workout, with the addition of wrist curls, is exactly what Ollie gave me in the second phase of my plan. Six sessions of using 2 arm for the last set of hangs then switch to one arm. I think it does depend on how much weight you need to take off, <10% probably fine but >=20% is too much.
There could well be other factors rather than just the hangs but I'm certainly not as strong and am lacking snap.
But on the flip side my endurance, which was why I went to them, is much improved. This year I've climbed harder, completed more routes and have done them all in quicker time.
Think I need to take a Lattice/Anderson hybrid approach taking what has worked for me from each of the plans and try to combine them.
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The main workout, with the addition of wrist curls, is exactly what Ollie gave me in the second phase of my plan. Six sessions of using 2 arm for the last set of hangs then switch to one arm. I think it does depend on how much weight you need to take off, <10% probably fine but >=20% is too much.
Yes - forgot to mention wrist curls because I didn't have time to include them in the last session.
There could well be other factors rather than just the hangs but I'm certainly not as strong and am lacking snap.
But on the flip side my endurance, which was why I went to them, is much improved. This year I've climbed harder, completed more routes and have done them all in quicker time.
My impression is that a downside of endurance training is that it can reduce absolute strength/power because the body responds by making it so you cant fully open the power tap as it were. Hopefully that latent potential can still be tapped.
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Best wishes for a good recovery to fellow power clubbed Toby
Thanks again everyone! FYI I slipped clipping a first bolt at Malham and broke skull and wrist. Use your clipstick everyone. Had an emergency head operation and due for a wrist op soon. All the thoughts are much appreciated Tx
Thanks for the messages of support everyone, I'd never have thought that I'd be this seriously injured after falling from not much more than a standard boulder height. I owe my life to the air ambulance, they are amazing. take care out there everyone!
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Best wishes for a good recovery to fellow power clubbed Toby
Thanks again everyone! FYI I slipped clipping a first bolt at Malham and broke skull and wrist. Use your clipstick everyone. Had an emergency head operation and due for a wrist op soon. All the thoughts are much appreciated Tx
Thanks for the messages of support everyone, I'd never have thought that I'd be this seriously injured after falling from not much more than a standard boulder height. I owe my life to the air ambulance, they are amazing. take care out there everyone!
Jesus, that's gnarly. Heal up quick!