UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fingers of a Martyr on August 10, 2004, 09:53:37 pm
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ok i'm a bit worried, for the past 6 months i've been training locks, assisted one armers, deadhangs and arms only climbing usually 5 times a week plus normal bouldering of course, probably works out to about 1 hour of the various excercises i've described above plus 1 hour of normal bouldering i.e problems per session. yet everything i read suggests against this. i have 1 day of nothing and one active rest day usually bouldering outside somewhere per week.
am i heading for a serious injury? also r there any early warning, tell tale signs of tendonitis in the elbows or anywhere else for that matter.
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Personally I think you are overdoing it, but just listen to your body. Every injury I have had from climbing (except one) has been an injury caused by overtraining, and believe me it sucks. Rather climb at a slightly lower grade than have to take weeks/months off due to a tweaked tendon, knackered shoulder etc. And I wouldn't say I was particularly injury prone either.
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I think your training schedule is too much and asking for trouble - remember you only get stronger when you rest so you might reap greater rewards by doing less anyway.
But hey, I'm no training expert and if it's working for you and you've stayed injury free then you might be lucky or you're (as Chris says) listening to your body properly.
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remember you only get stronger when you rest so you might reap greater rewards by doing less anyway.
You must be a beast by now! :wink:
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You'd have thought so - I've been resting damn hard for about the last decade and it's not happened yet.....hmmmm, I'd better just rest that little bit longer :lol:
Actually, I can proudly say I've got a bit of a strained bicep from an undercut problem at the wall which means I *must* be a real boulderer.
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it reads like loads but if you're training sensibly i don't think you're overdoing it. remember malc says he feels strongest on his third say on. get rid of the active rest day n you're quids in. i would also stop training locks, these are the best way to hurt yourself, possibly cut down on the one-armers as well (obviously i mean if you're doing them a couple of times a week). if not do these on your first day then just fingery stuff the second. remember there is a massive difference between training for locks or one-armers n actually pissing them to use them in a schedule. i take it you're not into your late twentys yet? let the injury's roll! :wink:
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i'm 16. also dieting at the moment and managed to lose 5 pounds in 10 days. i always feel better on my second day on for some bizzare reason. its hard to explain :? i used to take a day off before i went outside thinking it would improve my performance but it never does, so balls to that idea. i've never felt that i've done too much or had any aches or pains, not the bad sort anyway. i seriously have to force myself to take a day off. i'm bored when i'm not bouldering.
how often do u guys train or do u all just climb outside a lot.
why r locks the worst things to do? i'll stop training them as much if there the most likely excercise to cause injury. perhaps just 2 sessions of locks a week with 2 days of no locks in between wud be best?
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you're 16 and you're dieting... this sounds to me like you have some issues... :weirdo:
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not issues :cry: i'd call it... a burning desire to get stronger :twisted:
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he he... well, I don't think losing weight will make you stronger. If anything, it won't make you as strong. If you are training strength then any extra weight is good, because it will make you pull harder. Then, when you are beastly strong you can lose 5kg's and you will be a machine! :borg:
I weight more than just about everyone I can climb with, but I can still bust out a few one armers whenever I want... my extra weight is part of my training! :lol:
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Don't diet too hard or you'll just get weaker....and be miserable....
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Feeling better second day on is entirely normal when you're training loads, although I don't know why.
Personally I think you might well be overtraining, in the sense that its always upper body. If you train upper body 5 days in a row then you're muscles won't actually get stronger. You will feel stronger because of what they call "neural" gains - basically getting your muscles to 'learn' how to pull hard. But your muscles strengthen by 'reconstructing' themselves better after 'breaking them down' during training. Your regime leaves no time for the 'reconstruction'. So you may well break down completely!
I reckon 2 days on, 1 day off. On your day off work body tension and go for a run to increase fitness. Body tension is way underrated, but you've gotta have it! Have a look at Gaskins on his 9a+ in the new Climber. That is the body tension to aim for. Only he has it!
I would also repeat what someone else said, which is that you'll get much stronger training conservatively for a year rather than beasting it for 9 months then having to have 3 months off and going back to square one.
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I would also repeat what someone else said, which is that you'll get much stronger training conservatively for a year rather than beasting it for 9 months then having to have 3 months off and going back to square one.
Wise words, listen to that man!
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yo, I reckon you'll do yourself a mischief if you're that age training hard and dieting. (trust me I'm a doctor) Are you on summer hols or something? key is getting loads of rest, i know running is a different matter cos your tendons in your legs are far bigger than your hands etc, but i used to have a nap in the arvo if i could when i was training hard (100+miles a week) and that kept my rest topped up. maybe go running a bit to keep slim or some other aerobic exercise?
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i've trained like a madman like you are now and reckon its unecessary. Its true what they say about training power, quality is more important than quantity. The thing you wanna be concentrating on the most is climbing on rock as much as possible, its the best training.
In my experience people who are naturally strong are more susceptible to getting injured than naturally weak people who have had to wait years to climb hard. My mate Sam was doing one armers on crimps as he came out the womb but he's had knackered fingers for years now. On the other hand i don't think i could do a pull up till i was 18 or something and i've never had a proper injury (touch wood).
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oh aye and if you wanna get stronger you just have to be patient, just keep climbing and it will happen.
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oh aye and if you wanna get stronger you just have to be patient, just keep climbing and it will happen.
By stronger, do you mean fatter? I've been climbing nearly 18 years now and that's all that's happened so far :(
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i'd have to disagree with the diet stuff. i have seriously noticed improvement in strength since i lost the weight. couldn't hold 1 arm 90 lock for more than 5-6 seconds 2 weeks ago. held it for about 13 on monday night with each arm. also fingers feel much stronger. i know this is only cos i've lost weight. i already do weighted excercises on my pull up bars and fingerboard so i am sorting of pulling more than my natural weight a lot of the time. how much do u weigh uncle. i'm 5,11 feet high and 10,13 stone now. yeah i'm on summer hols and it sucks cos i can't drive :cry: :cry: :cry: . i'm gonna take a week off when i start sixth form in 4 weeks time anyway for a serious rest.
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just climbing in my opinion, i know u guys probably no better than me, will not get me stronger. but we'll see what happens. if i learn the hard way u guyz can say 'i told u so u prat'. :lol:
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damn, nigel's gone back up in my estimation :evil:
seriously tho the key is to avoid injury. when you say you don't feel any better when you go outside after a rest day could this not be because you don't climb outside a lot anyway. i would not judge your outdoor performance by your indoor performance if you're only getting out once a week. i wouldn't worry too much about strength yet just get fingers of steel first. as for dieting that's not for 16 yr old's.
ps locks are bad when overtrained n the clue's in the name, the first warning signs will be on the inside of the elbow, on the forearm tendon
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In reply to the original question, yeah I'm hell injury prone and i'm pretty sensible, and i'm always bloody injured. wierdly enough i had an elbow tweak earlier this year, ended up climbing solely at caley for about 6 weeks due to work placement which made it worse (powerful slabs!) then within three weeks of solely going to the tor its improved, wierd.
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thing with dieting is if you loose weight quickly then can just as easily put it back on really quickly too - it will hapen.
put if this way, if seriously getting light was the way forward to beign strong, then why is malc now 11 stone instead of the 8stone 13 we has back in the day, yet still stronger than ever?
http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=162
also:
As well as gaining strength, Malcolm knew that losing some weight would also improve his chances on the climb. He began to diet and managed to lose a stone and a half before trying his first red-point. Then taking his dieting to even further extremes, just before an attempt he would drink a lot of caffeine - which as a diuretic - contributed to even more weight loss.
He laughs now: "I wouldn't do that again, it was a bit mad actually."
And he wouldn't recommend this method, and believes that he could have done the climb without dieting though it would have taken some few months longer.
from:
http://www.scotlandonline.com/outdoors/malcolm_smith/index2.cfm
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Dieting is a fine line - of course you'll notice big strength gains when you lose weight fast like you are doing, but if you go too far then you'll have no energy. Firstly, simply because you need fuel in such a high power activity but secondly, and you probably know this already: hard dieting shocks the body into thinking that it has entered a period of starvation. When this happens, your body will slow your metabolism and retain fats over muscle - it's just a survival tactic that's evolved over thousands of years, but the result is that you'll waste muscle and feel tired, thus making you weaker.
And, when you start to eat again you'll put weight back on faster because of your slowed metabolic rate.
* yes, diet experts, I know this is a simplistic explaination.
I was climbing at my keenest and hardest in the 80's when over-training and hard-dieting were the norm. I used to train 4 to 5 hours almost every day and starve myself every night.
Everyone was at it, and I mean everyone and I've lived wth some of the top boys and seen it all first hand. I've seen people go to bed early because they were so hungry they were in pain. There's a well known case of one guy having to almost be carried to the crag because he was too drained for the walk in. I've even seen mates throw up their tea when they thought they'd eaten too much.
It's all been done before and it *doesn't work*! If we had all trained sensibly then everyone would have climbed way harder back then. The concept of rest days was alien - most people would do at least 3 days on. My body couldn't take it. Ok, I got strong and fit, but I never maximised my potential. The evidence was staring me in the face really, because when I went I had to go somewhere I couldn't climb and train for a few days, I was always mysteriously way stronger afterwards, but it didn't click that it was rest that was doing it, so it was back to the ridiculous training regime again.
Everyone knows now in retrospect that those training methods were counter-productive, and are now considered old-skool. Yeah, you'll get better, but you won't be anywhere near as good as you could be.
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malc is also quoted as saying when he first turned up in sheff and was invited to go climbing by spoon et al. that he didn't eat weather was shit for three days so didn't climb til then and then he proceeded to faint at the crag! hardcore. wouldn't get involved with diuretics either, thay'll dry out your tendons and they'll be more likely to snap! plus you'll loose performance at a rate of about 10%, to 1% dehydrated.
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yeah i've read them both before. the interview with malcs very good. i'm on 1000 calories a day the moment. i'll get down to 10 and 1/2 and see what happens after that. i never knew hunger pains cud be so nasty though. my stomach was actually hurting on monday night. but i feel great. not lethargic or tired on drowsy or ill. feel better than ever to tell u the truth. i read an article somewhere and the easiest way to prolong an animals life was to feed them less. brief periods of fasting r actually good for u. anyway i'm off to the bowderstone this afternoon and we'll see if my performance has improved. since two weeks ago. :D
yo bubbs thats just stupid in my opinion. thats asking for injury and ill health.
I was climbing at my keenest and hardest in the 80's when over-training and hard-dieting were the norm. I used to train 4 to 5 hours almost every day and starve myself every night.
Everyone was at it, and I mean everyone and I lived wth some pretty top-class boys and saw it all first hand. I've seen people go to bed early because they were so hungry they were in pain. There's a well known case of one guy having to almost be carried to the crag because he was too drained for the walk in. I've even seen mates throw up their tea when they thought they'd eaten too much.
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hear, hear :clap:
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if the recomended average intake for a male is summert like 2500cals then assuming you are more actve than average the if you're eating 1000cals then you don't have to be laplacce to do the maths on that one.
thing is, where is there weight loss coming from? fat? you don't sound very fat. if like people starting the atkins diet the loss is coming from water loss then its a bollocks weightloss and is only to your detriment.
if you're getting hunger pains then thats your body's way of telling you summert is wrong.
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Low calorie diets have not been tested on individuals undergoing athletic training, so I'd be careful.
You probably feel better because of all the shite that you're no longer feeding your body. Food is the main factor in most people feeling crap. For instance if you drink one can of pop a day you're instantly consuming several tablespoons of refined sugar, numerous synthetic chemicals, and blocking your digestive system with gas.
Eat properly (i.e. fruit, grains etc.), little and often throughout the day and you can't go wrong. Come on, we all get taught it at school!
P.S. Dense, I've always been your hero and you know it.
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Jeezus Blondie - why post up asking for advice and then just ignore everything everyone tells you? There's a lot of people know what they're on about on this forum.
Anyway, I'm sure you'll feel stronger today at the Bowderstone but let's see where you're at if you keep 1000 cals up for a few more weeks :roll:
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Seriously Blondie, I would be bloody careful with dieting and overtraining. You are 16 and in the middle of some major physiological changes. These could lead to serious injuries and health problems later in life.
Stick to a balanced diet and plenty of rest. Also do some aerobic stuff, to develop the rest of your body as well.
I'm probably not going to be around on this site in 10 years time to say "told you so prat" and would take no pleasure in doing so anyway.
I know you are young, dumb and full of cum (to coin the old phrase) and think we are a bunch of know it all old gits, but i dont want to think of the total combined years of experience of all this crap ( probably goes well into the hundreds!)
Look after yourself lad.
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yup and maybe you're getting better at locking, because you've been training them for a few weeks and thats how long it'll take to notice improvements!?
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Even exponents of dieting to climb harder do not recommend hard dieting at the same time as hard training. You either do one or t'other.
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blondie; I weight about 11.5 stone. I can do one armers without a problem, and I am also currently dieting. However, This is because I know I could weigh 11 stone and be 100% healthy as I am now. It's just I eat a lot of shit, so I have this thin layer of fat that I can lose. I wouldn't really want to go under 11st because for my height (5'10") and build I reckon that is adequate. I am just watching what I eat now, less fats, no chocolate/refined sugars, and trying to cut out tea and coffee. I definitely think 1000 calories is way way too low. You are not giving your body enough energy to do all the things you are doing.
What's important to remember is that everybody has a body shape that's right for them (in a climbing sense). You can't compare Dave Graham to Malc or Klem. Each person has their own build type. If you are small and are destined to stay skinny then that's fine, but don't force yourself to stay there. Big muscles are not bad and inevitably mean you can pull hard. Just find the right weight for yourseld. Also, being 16 you are still growing and shit, so don't fuck your body up at that point in your life. I didn't start climbing until I was 19 and by then I had already taken on my intended body shape, all climbing did was bulk me up a bit.
So, listen to the advice from all the old timers on here because they are the ones who've been in it since way back... when I was just running around in nappies! And definitely don't try to get too strong too quickly, because this WILL lead to injury (no matter how injury resistant you think you are).
Take it easy (and have a mars bar on me!)
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fuck me guys. really appreciate the concern but chill, if i start to feel ill believe me i'll stop. right to put your minds at rest heres wot i'm eating today.
breakfast 11am - 2 small slices of white toast with flora, 1 yoghurt
snack 2pm - bowl of fruit - 1 apple, 1 orange and some cherries
6pm - bowl of vegetables - carrots, peas, sweetcorn and peppers
yesterday
breakfast 11am - 1 yoghurt
tea 5pm - two chicken breasts, lots of vegetables, oven chips
day before yesterday
breakfast - a bowl of cereal (no milk)
snack - an apple
tea - a toasted bagel
plus as much water as i want a minimum of 3 pints a day and one glass of irn bru :oops: . i love that shit.
i cud go on as i keep a diary but won't bore u guys.
Jeezus Blondie - why post up asking for advice and then just ignore everything everyone tells you? There's a lot of people know what they're on about on this forum.
chill bubba, i am heeding the advice. no more than 2 sessions of locks a week from now on :8)
i am fairly built but feel i could weigh less.
i haven't touched chocolate for 2 weeks now. don't even miss it that much to tell the truth.
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ps i've been training locks for about 6 months now but still can't hold 120's with 1 arm. believe me the last thing i want is to get injured, have a drop in performance or get ill and at the first signs of any of them i'll stop BUT at the moment i feel fine and we'll see if i can keep it up for anohter 2 weeks.
everyone i've talked to about this has basically sed what you're saying. but on the other hand everyone sed i shouldn't be bouldering 6 times a week a year ago and guess who's improved the most out of me or them?
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stick to that and you'll end up with malnutrition.you need a shed load more protein given your age and the training your doing. stop eating chips if you wanna lose weight.
kids eh :lol:
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stop eating chips if you wanna lose weight
it wos the first portion i'd had in two weeks. :x
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and guess who's improved the most out of me or them?
But isn't it about maximising your potential? You may have improved a lot, but think outside of the box - perhaps if you trained and ate differently you would have improved much more by now?
And oven-chips are ok I reckon...
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day before yesterday
breakfast - a bowl of cereal (no milk)
snack - an apple
tea - a toasted bagel
all that lot together would be about an sufficient breakfast. i bet if you were eating like that in the wintertime you would be constantly cold and lethergic. i mean fuck, most POWs in japan ate more than that. as someone said, theres no protein and almost no carbs there. as soon as any fat in yo body goes then you'll be eating muscle - best for you body to be eating the muscle of a dead animal rather than your own i recon.
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And oven-chips are ok I reckon...
yeah, thy may be processed but they're not dripping in fat.
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breakfast 11am - 2 small slices of white toast with flora, 1 yoghurt
snack 2pm - bowl of fruit - 1 apple, 1 orange and some cherries
6pm - bowl of vegetables - carrots, peas, sweetcorn and peppers
yesterday
breakfast 11am - 1 yoghurt
tea 5pm - two chicken breasts, lots of vegetables, oven chips
day before yesterday
breakfast - a bowl of cereal (no milk)
snack - an apple
tea - a toasted bagel
hmmmm, no beef eh?
you say that's the food for 3 days. that could be combined into one meal as far as i can see. i bet dave has more than that in a ciabatta
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Ok, once more then I'm giving up.
Blondie, you may feel fine now, but I am once more saying the words LONG TERM HEALTH PROBLEMS. Diabetes, Anemia, Gout (A friend of mine got it while dieting and couldnt walk for a week), Liver Problems etc.
Live long and prosper mate.
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i've just done your height,weight on the body mass indicator,which scores you at 21.this is 1 point off being underweight for your height.1500 cals a day is considered low enough to lose weight and thats for inactive males.
you also need to get more balanced diet,20% fat,25% protein,55% carbs is a rough guide regardless of calories.
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i mean fuck, most POWs in japan ate more than that.
believe me they didn't my dad used to play tennis with a former pow and that wud probably be two or three days worth of food when it was really bad.
but seriously the bottom line is i feel fine and protein isn't a requirement for muscle maintenance only for muscle growth and repairing damage. most westerners eat far too much meat than is necessary for a healthy diet. protein should only make up about 15-20% of your dietary intake. or so i got told in food tech last year :? i actually thought i was eating quite a lot of food but evidently not.
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hmmmm, no beef eh?
you say that's the food for 3 days. that could be combined into one meal as far as i can see. i bet dave has more than that in a ciabatta
more worrying is theres no brocolli in there
i've have quadruple that every time i go to an all-you-can-eat chinky.
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but seriously the bottom line is i feel fine and protein isn't a requirement for muscle maintenance only for muscle growth and repairing damage.
Is repairing damage not the same as maintenance :? . What do you think happens when you train muscle if not damage and repair??
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i felt fine dieting,training like shit but hell i enjoyed my 8 years of cycling when i was too fucked to climb. :cry:
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Aye, Bon Jovi is right - like I said before, your muscles get stronger by breaking down and then reassembling themselves. Training = damage! Which needs to be repaired.
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by maintenance i ment restoring the supplies of glycogen and making sure they have energy to perform not so much rebulding the muscle.
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I dunno if anyone else has mentioned it, but thats a hell of a lot of pulling you're doing with what appears to be no pushing.
Its not so bad if you're out on the rock all the time because you're using a larger variety of muscles, but you really should counteract that amount of hanging/locking with some antagonist work. At least one session a week.
Otherwise you'll end up with serious imbalances (forearms/triceps etc) and these are often the cause of injuries. Protect yourself now.
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breakfast 11am - 2 small slices of white toast with flora, 1 yoghurt
snack 2pm - bowl of fruit - 1 apple, 1 orange and some cherries
6pm - bowl of vegetables - carrots, peas, sweetcorn and peppers
yesterday
breakfast 11am - 1 yoghurt
tea 5pm - two chicken breasts, lots of vegetables, oven chips
day before yesterday
breakfast - a bowl of cereal (no milk)
snack - an apple
tea - a toasted bagel
Fuck that!
You're young doing loads of exercise, you can probably eat loads, and not put any weight on, enjoy it whilst you're young and have a fast metabolism. Once you get old, you'll wish you did eat a load of shit when you didn't have to work so hard to get rid of it afterwards.
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yo carnage i do 3 sets of 12 press ups and 3 sets of 12 tricep pushes every night as well.
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Chuck in some reverse curls for the backs of your forearms as well then. Not every night tho, just once a week will do.
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blondie are you my eleven year old daughter? i have very similar going no where conversations.'dad how do i do this or that'.'you should try this or that'.' yes but/no but'. :wink:
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today i ate a bowl of cereal, (big) a banana, a brie and bacon salad monster of a sandwich, i'm just about to have a yoghurt, and i've a table booked at the lion's lair where i intend to have a steak sandwich. and i weigh 10.5 stone and am 5 11. exercise off the weight, i've cycled to and from doncatraz.
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i wish i was that light. maybe i should go on a diet.
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doncatraz
i know you pain brother (thumps chest twice with fist)
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I don't want to sound like a know it all arse, but I think it needs to be said for your furure well fair Blondie.
I'm nearing the end of my sport science degree (with the aim to continue working in the field), I'm a qualified fitness instructor, and have read widely on all aspects of climbing training, from books to research articles. I know what I'm on about.
Blondie, you are going to fuck yourself up, both physically and mentally. I don't want to embarrass you, but you sound like you've got 'issues' which you really should address.
Training that much everyday, and starving yourself (don't argue, that's what you are doing) is not going to make you stronger. You WILL suffer injury, and you are likely to suffer from other health problems aswell.
Whenever you train you should intake more calories, not less.
You have to have good rest, otherwise your body will not have time to recover.
If you want more detailed training advice PM me and I'll help you. But you must stop what you are doing. Everyone on here is obviously concerned, and you should listen to what they say, there is a huge wealth of experience and knowledge.
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Sound advice TH. I'm a sport science graduate and will be starting research soon. If you need any training advice just pm me or TH.
To be honest it would be better to train at a heavy weight and then diet at a seperate point in time. Aerobic exercise works wonders!
Dad voice(/Be careful and please take some advice /)Dad voice
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when i was 17-18 (i.e. not much older then blondie is now) i'd just started climbing and going indoors a fair bit, and in the space of a year put on a stone in weight, from generally filing out and other mucles associated with going climbing a bit (shoulders etc). The moral is at 16 you should expect to be still gaining weight, not loosing it.
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Word to that! :iagree: Take heed blondie, before you collapse and die. :rip:
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Right then, you are a silly boy, sorry if that sounded harsh but thats what i think. You should listen to people who know what they are talking about. When you are a youth you feel invincible, I know, I am still a youth, just older and wiser. Injury comes on fast and it is not fun, your body is constantly developing, one day you are fine then the next day pop, you are fucked and you didnt even see it coming. It is no good saying you will stop starving yourself etc when you feel something, it will probably be to late.
I have tried dieting and over training and all they did were make me feel shit and get me injured. I now eat what I want and dont realy train. Go climbing and enjoy yourself, you will improve just by climbing, The only time i will start to train is when I feel I have reached a plateau from just climbing.
If you still feel the need to train then please ask someone who knows about it first. You presumably are still growing, dont fuck yourself up, think about the long term. Have fun.
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lol, cheerz james. i've had some discussions with T.H and dylan and they've sorted me out. i'm still training hard just having more rest days, not doing so many hard days in a row etc.
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does that mean not punching walls as well james?
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I dont know what you are talking about jim :roll:
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"am i heading for a serious injury?
Yes! as an expert in in anatomy I would say the most likely consequence of all your training is that your head will fall off!! which will lead to you think the bowderstone problems are sandbags!! :thissucks:
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if it sucks don't reply on it then.
which will lead to you think the bowderstone problems are sandbags
thats rich coming from some one who could barely do picnic sarcastic.
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I'm not gonna start a bitch fight with you but for the record I have done picnic sarcastic from a sds and a standing start and its easy! don't tell me you have never had a bad day when you don't climb well?
Also if you are gonna come out with all that "thats rich" crap are you not the same person recommending Steffan Grosman sds and Red Baron sds and all those hard problems at little font? if so than thats rich comming from someone who can't do the first move on power pinch ( unless of course you were having a bad day? in which case I understand)
:argue:
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Chill out please lads...
...this ain't
(http://www.bedfellow.com/about/preview/2bigCocktalk.gif)
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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LOL
unless of course you were having a bad day? in which case I understand
not a bad day, but i'd been on the 50 degree cellar board and campus boards at keswick for the previous 2 1/2 hours and it was my third day on. and just for the record i reckon Steffan Grosman sds is fuckin easier than ps ss or pp cos the footholds on it aren't coated in glass.
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I guess your training is paying off if you think Stefan Grossman SDS is easy.
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I thought that was nails?
Fuckin good effort if you think its easy :shock:
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fuck me i never did, but u can tell if a problems easier than an other. put it this way, i spent 2 hours on picnic sarcastic and still can't do it, i spent 30 mins on stephan grossman ss and did all the moves. didn't link them cause my skin was fooked. but sadly it ain't no v11 its v9 at best.
shit after sayin that i'll have to haul my ass back over there and actually do it now.
the first move is by far the easiest on the problem so why anyone wud think it adds two grades on i don't know :?
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Look I don't know what your trying to prove but all you seem to be achieving so far is winding people up with these in your face statments about problems which you have not even done!
So far you have commented on the grades of Khoukuri V8 (you said V7), Picnic Sarcastic SS V8 (You seem to reckon V11) and Stefan Grossman (you reckon V9) and by your own admission you have not climbed any of these problems! So why do you feel obliged to enlighten us all with your opinion of the grades?
Why don't you tell us which hard problems you have done and I'll be alot more interested to hear your opinion on the grades.
All the problems you have been banging on about have been given there grades by people with far more experience than you, so why dont you just respect that and actually send the problems instead of banging on about the grades!!!
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the first move is by far the easiest on the problem so why anyone wud think it adds two grades on i don't know?
Greg does have a point Fingers; of course you can get a feel of how hard these things are but you can't give a grade if you've not linked them.
Take The Dominator in Yosemite (V12) for example. Apparantly the first move is only about 5b (Brit tech) but the link repulsed many of the worlds finest until Sharma finally succeeded in 2002. One extra easy move into a hard problem can make a world of difference for many reasons....
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What a good point Greg!!!
You have no right to comment on the grade until you have done the problem!
:jedi:
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Take The Dominator in Yosemite (V12) for example. Apparantly the first move is only about 5b (Brit tech) but the link repulsed many of the worlds finest until Sharma finally succeeded in 2002. One extra easy move into a hard problem can make a world of difference for many reasons....
Yeah, I did the first move and thought I was gonna walk it! :lol: :lol: :lol:
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without a doubt Greg is right. Doing all the moves is still worlds away from doing the problem. There are some problems that i can do all the moves every go without a problem, but STILL can't link them and do the problem. Don't fall into the trap of talking big numbers and climbing little ones...
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sorry people i won't comment on anything until i've done it from now on.
wasn't tryin to offend anyone but can see how i did. sorry :oops:
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Fingers, it's cool - there's nowt wrong with commenting and that, it's just that it read like you were giving definite grades for stuff you hadn't yet done, which is bound to rile people who might have spent ages working those problems to do them....
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oh aye, i totally understand, u know u spend weeks on a problem declare v11 then sum loudmouthed kid comes along and says 'I haven't actually done it but its only v9', lol, who wouldn't be pissed. sorry again lads.
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funny thread. How the eck can you find picnic sarcastic ss harder than steffan grossman ss. Thats fucked up :shock:
SG is 7c+/8a and PS is 7b. Its not like they're totally different styles either, just pulling down.
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Just seen this thread again courtesy of Big D's recent reply.
oh aye, i totally understand, u know u spend weeks on a problem declare v11 then sum loudmouthed kid comes along and says 'I haven't actually done it but its only v9', lol, who wouldn't be pissed. sorry again lads.
Who has spent weeks on what problem and then declared V11? I can't really follow this.
Also agree with what the Funky Chipmunk says about comments on grades.
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Just seen this thread again courtesy of Big D's recent reply.
oh aye, i totally understand, u know u spend weeks on a problem declare v11 then sum loudmouthed kid comes along and says 'I haven't actually done it but its only v9', lol, who wouldn't be pissed. sorry again lads.
Who has spent weeks on what problem and then declared V11? I can't really follow this.
Also agree with what the Funky Chipmunk says about comments on grades.
That's no Chipmunk! It's Domo-kun, do you people know nothing? :roll:
DOMO is a strange creature born from an egg. One day he fell into Usajii the rabbits house, the old rabbit likes TV. After that he began to love watching TV. He is gentle and strong. When he is in a bad mood, he breaks wind.
Favorite food: Seasoned beef with potatoes
Disliked food: Apple (There seems a deep mystery in his DNA)
Favorite talent: MAX and The guitar wolf
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Just seen this thread again courtesy of Big D's recent reply.
Fingers of a Martyr wrote:
oh aye, i totally understand, u know u spend weeks on a problem declare v11 then sum loudmouthed kid comes along and says 'I haven't actually done it but its only v9', lol, who wouldn't be pissed. sorry again lads.
Who has spent weeks on what problem and then declared V11? I can't really follow this
i wasn't speaking literally its just an example.
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n bonjoy was giving n example of what it's like to live in his world :crazy:
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n bonjoy was giving n example of what it's like to live in his world :crazy:
i think he's having a mental breakdown
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n bonjoy was giving n example of what it's like to live in his world :crazy:
been picking too many of those mushrooms again!!!!
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It's not just me Domo-kun is a international hero!
Here he is hatched out of the aforementioned egg.
(http://drew.corrupt.net/domo2.jpg)