UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: cha1n on May 10, 2014, 10:12:25 pm
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I'm pretty sure my fingers are strong enough to hold my bodyweight 1-armed but my shoulders feel like they're going to snap off if I actually try to do it...
If I jump into a locked off position I can hang locked off on one arm (on albeit a large, 2-pad, incut rung) but struggle when the arm is straight and find myself hanging on the joint, not engaging the muscles (too weak).
Is the best way to build strength by using assistance (sling) and/or increasing the size of the hold i'm hanging from? Are there additional shoulder stability exercises I should be doing and any relevant antagonistics would be great.
I've just failed one of my 2014 goals and got a minor pulley injury (after my first 3 indoor sessions, post 8 month outdoor climbing trip), so figured now would be a good time to work on core and shoulder stuff.
Thanks for any info!
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never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder. never hang one armed on a completely relaxed shoulder...
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just to make it clear: it stretches your rotator cuff and opens the door to all sorts of shoulder issues, including dangerous instability. I learned the hard way...
it is an excellent idea though to hang on an almost straight arm with an already engaged shoulder, as this does exactly the opposite: it protects the joint.
If you have trouble seeing what i mean, try this two armed exercise first, it gives the feeling of what is an engaged shoulder Vs a relaxed one. Hanging Shrugs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PfoVAI4jv4#)
as far as progression goes : my fav would be to start with asym hangs on a campus board, using the pinky of your other hand as low as you can.
when you are close to mastering the hold, you want to use the other hand to prevent rotation rather than for "lifting" purposes.
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Ha, thanks for the subtle advice, I won't hang on the joint! I only mentioned about hanging on the joint because I know it's a no-no. I just thought it was strange that I can hang locked-off but not straight-armed, everything just feels so tight and secure in the locked-off position.
You mention preventing rotation, what is the ideal amount of rotation? Should you be hanging front on, as if you were doing two handed? I find that it's more comfortable to hang rotated 90 deg or more, almost to the point where I'm facing my palm!
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just to make it clear: it stretches your rotator cuff and opens the door to all sorts of shoulder issues, including dangerous instability. I learned the hard way...
it is an excellent idea though to hang on an almost straight arm with an already engaged shoulder, as this does exactly the opposite: it protects the joint.
If you have trouble seeing what i mean, try this two armed exercise first, it gives the feeling of what is an engaged shoulder Vs a relaxed one. Hanging Shrugs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PfoVAI4jv4#)
as far as progression goes : my fav would be to start with asym hangs on a campus board, using the pinky of your other hand as low as you can.
when you are close to mastering the hold, you want to use the other hand to prevent rotation rather than for "lifting" purposes.
Shrugs. That looks like some fat bloke failing to do a pull up.
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I'm quite sure that past topics covered the subject also, so if I were you I'd search a little bit on the board. You'lle get a lot more info.
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Doing the hangs side-on to start with makes one arm hangs easier though a lot of finger boards set in doorways don't have adequate clearance at the side to do this. If you hang on a jug front-on the natural things is to start twisting inwards. Hanging on a jug or bar and attempting to control that twisting motion should help improve your shoulder stability.
I'm not sure what shrugs do but no harm doing them as well. :shrug:
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I did it with a pulley and weight. Reduce the weight, eventually the rope will be there to stop you rotating.
Supplemented with some shoulder free weight exercises in the gym I have made massive progress with this: gone from not being able to hang a medium edge at all to being able to three finger a small edge for about 7 secs.
And the important part: I've noticed I feel much stronger when catching a small hold at speed on the board, like if I can get a couple of fingers on to the hold at all then I can definitely pull it in and hold it, attempt next move etc.
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Supplemented with some shoulder free weight exercises in the gym I have made massive progress with this:
What exercises have you been doing?
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Seated dumbbell shoulder press
Bench press
Bicep Curl
Reverse Fly
Rotator cuff curls
Rows
Nothing unusual/ complicated, just things I probably should have done anyway. Were it not for the fact that the castle installed a small weights area a couple of years ago I'm sure I'd still do none.
But as someone who has 'trained' for climbing for over twenty years and had until recently done little or nothing specific beyond bouldering I've found the gym beneficial. I feel stronger and more balanced in my shoulders/ posture and my elbow problems have gone away.
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you haven't mentioned any of this revelation to johnny brown have you?
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I feel stronger and more balanced in my shoulders/ posture and my elbow problems have gone away.
Mine have returned after stopping doing the 'balancing' exercises.
Arnold Press FTW. :strongbench:
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you haven't mentioned any of this revelation to johnny brown have you?
He doesn't need me
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bdJXhrDI2ZU/UnH_9EaYyEI/AAAAAAAAMEI/f3BOP1kwT_Q/s1600/1394216_592061680861399_384330357_n.jpg)
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Last time I saw him running it was to wss in a habit!