UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: dpb on April 28, 2012, 08:48:34 pm
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I'm on a bit of a power endurance kick a I'm keen to try weedkiller/chimes link.
One of the things I've been doing is sets of encores on the large rungs of a bm2000 but without putting my feet down between pullups/hangs.
This feels like a bloody good workout but I have no real idea if it's a good exercise scientifically speaking etc.
anyone ever tried this or have any thoughts about it's effectiveness?
Cheers
Dave
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So that would be french pull-ups on an edge. :smart:
The emphasis training wise is on the arms and you are effectively doing and fingerwise you are doing a very long medium intensity deadhang. I'm sure that's a pretty good exercise though the on-off action with encores in theory mimics the intermittant action/contractions that you get when reaching between holds.
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i'd have thought you'd be better off climbing, this sounds like a recipe for tendonitis. surely there are more inspiring things than weedkiller chimes at the tor or have you ticked it up to 8b?
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So that would be french pull-ups on an edge. :smart:
The emphasis training wise is on the arms and you are effectively doing and fingerwise you are doing a very long medium intensity deadhang. I'm sure that's a pretty good exercise though the on-off action with encores in theory mimics the intermittant action/contractions that you get when reaching between holds.
Oh yeah, Frenchies on an edge, doh. Thanks for the thoughts.
i'd have thought you'd be better off climbing, this sounds like a recipe for tendonitis. surely there are more inspiring things than weedkiller chimes at the tor or have you ticked it up to 8b?
Certainly not ticked up to 8b but done a bit. It actually does kind of inspire me, weedkiller seemed impossible years ago and used to be a project. Chimes of freedom the same. The climbing on both is really good and something inside of me fancies the link.
It certainly won't be the only thing I get on there this year.
Are you thinking tendonitis in the shoulders or fingers? I had a bit of bother last year with my shoulder
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I think what saltus is saying is that if you're in the market for an 8b then it seems a bit of a shame to do a contrived link up when there are plenty of other actual routes around, although admittedly - not really at the tor.
Fingers or elbows tendonitis i would guess.
If you want a bouldery 8b in the area, why not do zeke? I don't know if you've climbed 8b already, but if you haven't, it would be a shame for your first one to be this.
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Are you thinking tendonitis in the shoulders or fingers? I had a bit of bother last year with my shoulder
Elbows. Bending the arms while holding a static grip with the fingers requires the finger flexor muscles to change length. This is not great for the finger flexor tendons at the elbow if they're not conditioned well.
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Are you thinking tendonitis in the shoulders or fingers? I had a bit of bother last year with my shoulder
Elbows. Bending the arms while holding a static grip with the fingers requires the finger flexor muscles to change length. This is not great for the finger flexor tendons at the elbow if they're not conditioned well.
Cheers. Food for thought!