try balancing on your buttocks. with legs and torso at approx 45 to ground. Once you are Ok with this put your arms up parallel to your legs. Repeat until you shake like a shitting dog.
I do the sort of pelvic thrusting thing
Full Boat Pose (http://www.yogajournal.com/poses/finder/browse_categories/core)
Paripurna Navasana
(http://www.yogajournal.com/media/originals/7341-HP_214_Paripurna_248.jpg)
(par-ee-POOR-nah nah-VAHS-anna)
paripurna = full, entire, complete
nava = boat
Step by Step
Sit on the floor with your legs straight in front of you. Press your hands on the floor a little behind your hips, fingers pointing toward the feet, and strengthen the arms. Lift through the top of the sternum and lean back slightly. As you do this make sure your back doesn't round; continue to lengthen the front of your torso between the pubis and top sternum. Sit on the "tripod" of your two sitting bones and tailbone.
Exhale and bend your knees, then lift your feet off the floor, so that the thighs are angled about 45-50 degrees relative to the floor. Lengthen your tailbone into the floor and lift your pubis toward your navel. If possible, slowly straighten your knees, raising the tips of your toes slightly above the level of your eyes. If this isn't possible remain with your knees bent, perhaps lifting the shins parallel to the floor.
Stretch your arms alongside the legs, parallel to each other and the floor. Spread the shoulder blades across your back and reach strongly out through the fingers. If this isn't possible, keep the hands on the floor beside your hips or hold on to the backs of your thighs.
While the lower belly should be firm, it shouldn't get hard and thick. Try to keep the lower belly relatively flat. Press the heads of the thigh bones toward the floor to help anchor the pose and lift the top sternum. Breathe easily. Tip the chin slightly toward the sternum so the base of the skull lifts lightly away from the back of the neck.
At first stay in the pose for 10-20 seconds. Gradually increase the time of your stay to 1 minute. Release the legs with an exhalation and sit upright on an inhalation.
There are lots of people at the wall who do yoga. For 99.9% of them, this is true:
(http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af317/sgruff/Picture1.png?t=1279389890)
There are lots of people at the wall who do yoga. For 99.9% of them, this is true:
(http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af317/sgruff/Picture1.png?t=1279389890)
:-\ If you are doing yoga at the expense of climbing or training training then it might hinder your climbing performance but otherwise its a beneficial active rest option especially for those with cores of jelly, the chronically inflexible, the posturally contorted and the muscularly imbalanced - and most of us fall into at least one of those categories. Accepted there are alternatives to yoga to deal with those issues.
So beacuse you have seen some people go to the wall and do a bit of yoga stretches and climb badly, therefore Yoga makes you climb like shit.
Great leap of logic sherlock.
Wow. What a load of uninformed shite!
Most climbers have bad posture. Most climbers are not as flexible as they could/ should be. Most climbers have muscle imbalances that lead to shoulder/ elbow problems. Most climbers have poor core strength. Yoga helps with all these. Most climbers would benefit from doing some.
:-\ If you are doing yoga at the expense of climbing or training training then it might hinder your climbing performance but otherwise its a beneficial active rest option especially for those with cores of jelly, the chronically inflexible, the posturally contorted and the muscularly imbalanced - and most of us fall into at least one of those categories. Accepted there are alternatives to yoga to deal with those issues.
See, I don't agree.
OK, I'll bite.
You can't simply state a load of stuff and then say "thing X cures it". What kind of argument is that? You can't expect to convince me like that, surely?
OK, I'll bite.
You can't simply state a load of stuff and then say "thing X cures it". What kind of argument is that? You can't expect to convince me like that, surely?
I'm not sure you are in a position to criticise other people's arguments after your previous statements:
"Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.
That doesn't mean there aren't any, but it strongly suggests that those that do probably aren't good because of the yoga".
OK, I'll bite.
You can't simply state a load of stuff and then say "thing X cures it". What kind of argument is that? You can't expect to convince me like that, surely?
I'm not sure you are in a position to criticise other people's arguments after your previous statements:
"Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.
That doesn't mean there aren't any, but it strongly suggests that those that do probably aren't good because of the yoga".
What's wrong with that?
Two groups that go to the wall A and B
group A does yoga, and is uniformly shite
group B does not do yoga, and is not uniformly shite
Therefore... yoga makes you shite?
I feel like I'm trying to convince a truck load of born again Christians that there is not God.
OK, I'll bite.
You can't simply state a load of stuff and then say "thing X cures it". What kind of argument is that? You can't expect to convince me like that, surely?
I'm not sure you are in a position to criticise other people's arguments after your previous statements:
"Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.
That doesn't mean there aren't any, but it strongly suggests that those that do probably aren't good because of the yoga".
What's wrong with that?
Two groups that go to the wall A and B
group A does yoga, and is uniformly shite
group B does not do yoga, and is not uniformly shite
Therefore... yoga makes you shite?
I feel like I'm trying to convince a truck load of born again Christians that there is not God.
And even if there is a correlation, I'd like to hear Lund's theory for the causation he so boldy implies.
My theory: they start crap, see loads of fancy pants people doing yoga, and spend time they need to be climbing and training doing yoga instead of climbing and training.
I have done yoga. I'm not bad at it, if I say so myself
I'm not going to spit out my fucking climbing CV except to say that I've been to a few outdoor venues, and that for the record, I have done some stuff on grit.
That the chap in the video can be ace despite doing yoga
Lund. Have you recently been dumped by a yoga teacher?
Most climbers have excellent core strengthFunnily enough I always thought that I'd got pretty good core strength- I'm 45 and I've been climbing for a long time and I just assumed that because I could climb OK and was thin and all that, that it wasn't an issue for me. Since knackering my back I've learned that I've only got good core strength in specific areas.
The one thing I did learn is while your back is painful/weak, you should avoid any exercise that involves holding both legs in a straightened position (straight leg raises, levers, L-hangs etc) as these place alot of strain on the lower back.
Back on topic, I used to suffer from lower back pain alot and after assessment, got put on a set of very basic pilates exercises by my physio. I thought I had a pretty strong core but after getting utterly schooled by her on some of the simple core strength tests, I realised that I had a few deficiencies.
I have now done these excercises religiously for the last 8 weeks and my back has started to show a marked improvement.
Back on topic, I used to suffer from lower back pain alot and after assessment, got put on a set of very basic pilates exercises by my physio. I thought I had a pretty strong core but after getting utterly schooled by her on some of the simple core strength tests, I realised that I had a few deficiencies.
I have now done these excercises religiously for the last 8 weeks and my back has started to show a marked improvement. I am seeing a general increase in my core strength and at last assessment I was able to perform some of the tests without shaking like the aforementioned shitting dog.
Its worth having a chat with someone who really knows their stuff in this area as learning good form and finding out whats right for you is very important. The one thing I did learn is while your back is painful/weak, you should avoid any exercise that involves holding both legs in a straightened position (straight leg raises, levers, L-hangs etc) as these place alot of strain on the lower back. Stick to doing them with knees bent. I'm not saying it'll do anything for your climbing but it may well stop your back hurting which is what I thought you were looking for in the OP. :)
Also, if it the running thats doing it, consider getting your running style/shoes assessed as using worn out/incorrect shoes and poor style can often contribute to back pain.
The climbing walls round here are full of punters trying to put their leg behind their ear. Some of the chicks are really hot, and it's getting to the point where I can't climb sport without a bird at the base of the route standing on her head. Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.
* However, ballistic stretching was being strongly advocated by Dave Binney at a BMC Youth Climbing event I went to on Saturday.
* However, ballistic stretching was being strongly advocated by Dave Binney at a BMC Youth Climbing event I went to on Saturday.
Ballistic or dynamic? I've never heard anyone recommend ballistic stretching, it's generally considered quite dangerous.
Have opinions changed (again)?
Its worth having a chat with someone who really knows their stuff in this area as learning good form and finding out whats right for you is very important. The one thing I did learn is while your back is painful/weak, you should avoid any exercise that involves holding both legs in a straightened position (straight leg raises, levers, L-hangs etc) as these place alot of strain on the lower back. Stick to doing them with knees bent. I'm not saying it'll do anything for your climbing but it may well stop your back hurting which is what I thought you were looking for in the OP. :)
The climbing walls round here are full of punters trying to put their leg behind their ear. Some of the chicks are really hot, and it's getting to the point where I can't climb sport without a bird at the base of the route standing on her head. Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.
Which climbing walls are these?. Static resistance type stretching* before climbing has been shown to decrease strength performance. I can't ever recall anyone doing yoga stretches at the Foundry before or after except for ones that have obvoiusly part of some corrective physio advice. Is this at the London walls by any chance ? Maybe its some show-off thing going on as in - I can't climb well but I can attract attention doing the splits ? A good climber who did yoga might not feel the same urge.
* However, ballistic stretching was being strongly advocated by Dave Binney at a BMC Youth Climbing event I went to on Saturday.
Yeah its london. I've read papers on stretching, but not related to climbing. But I'm guessing that I've blown any chance to say anything else on this subject. ("Just my fucking opinion, what you gonna do about it" seems to have got me puntered. :boohoo:) Oh well. Welcome to the internet! ;)
Anyway thanks for the prompt - I've booked in for my 7.30am class tomorrow.
Jeez, get over yourself. The climbing walls round here are full of punters trying to put their leg behind their ear. Some of the chicks are really hot, and it's getting to the point where I can't climb sport without a bird at the base of the route standing on her head. Fact is though, they DO climb like shit. All of them. I don't know a single decent climber who does yoga.
That doesn't mean there aren't any, but it strongly suggests that those that do probably aren't good because of the yoga. So they'd be better off doing something else. Unless it gives them zen powers or some shit which I guess you have to be a true yogi to get, right?
I guess you do yoga. Why? Why did you choose that? Did you honestly honestly think about how it would help your climbing - or did you just drift into it because everyone said so? Or is it nothing to do with your climbing, and you just do it because you like it? That's cool, no problem with that. What I've a problem with is that yoga is good cross training for climbing, because from what I can see, it isn't.
J
So do you supplement your bouldering with other forms of strength training?
Definitely. I do deadhangs, campusing, locking holds to the neck and 1-armers on a bar or an edge (although the 1-armers are mainly for a tune-up at the start of a session). I also do a few system style problems such as body tension moves at full stretch or front-on with my feet splayed out, or climbing with a weight-belt. I don't do much isometric (static) work but I would do if I was training for a specific move again like I did for Hubble. I still use weights but for overall body strength rather than climbing strength - I only do compound movements like clean & jerk, deadlift, benchpress, upright row & shoulder press. I'd also use a Bachar ladders if I had one at the moment! I also do an hour of yoga at the end of the day - it really loosens you off and helps you relax and recover mentally as well as physically.
The crucial thing there though is that he also does deadhangs, campussing, locking, 1 armers, and system problems with a weight belt. I suspect it's that which has helped him climb 9a, a lot more than the yoga. I'm sure yoga isn't detrimental to climbing, but I reckon most folks efforts would be better applied elsewhere. Unless of course like someone else said, it's just cos they like yoga.
I think most people agree that yoga should be a supplement, not a substitute.
Core strength: I'd say yoga was a pretty weak option for this. There are only a few positions that are any good; why spend ages trying to put your knees by your ears when you should be experiencing abdominal pain? Try this instead: http://www.dragondoor.com/articler/mode3/229/ (http://www.dragondoor.com/articler/mode3/229/) for example. If you really must give someone else money, go to a pilates class. And for chrissakes, stop doing situps.
Muscle imbalances? I can't see yoga helping for this either. We spend forever using the back, core, forearms, biceps... so any muscle imbalances e.g. in the triceps - are going to need work at some point yes. I can't see how yoga is going to compensate for that though; if there is a real imbalance that really needs sorting I probably need to do something a lot more muscle intense, like the weight room, or getting a theraband or something.
The crucial thing there though is that he also does deadhangs, campussing, locking, 1 armers, and system problems with a weight belt. I suspect it's that which has helped him climb 9a, a lot more than the yoga. I'm sure yoga isn't detrimental to climbing, but I reckon most folks efforts would be better applied elsewhere.
My theory: they start crap, see loads of fancy pants people doing yoga, and spend time they need to be climbing and training doing yoga instead of climbing and training.
Whats the problem with situps?
Got any of those wonderful link things that take people to said articles you are referring to so others can read and judge for themselves the quality of the research and advice?
There are loads slackers. (Ok if I call you slackers?)
Now, these are pretty selective, and before anyone accuses me of saying that I'm being selective, I googled for various things like "sit ups back pain" and the inverse, but the search terms may have been pretty shit at finding the counter arguments...
Also, I haven't read all the articles all the way through as I'm supposed to be working. ;)
My theory: they start crap, see loads of fancy pants people doing yoga, and spend time they need to be climbing and training doing yoga instead of climbing and training.
I got this far through the thread and have decided to sack it off as it's a load of bollocks - who needs to be climbing (much lesstraining)...christ, it's meant to be fun isn't it?
or is it just the latest excuse to harass people online?
You've taken the comment out of the context in which it was delivered - the training (for climbing) - section, and turned it into some wank "who needs to climbing much less training" toss. I guess you're thinking ooh I only need air and water and food andGodand shit. Yes very clever.
Now I'm going to fuck off, and decide whether I want to cancel my fucking account on this piece of shit. I've had it with this bollocks. Frankly, people like you turn this place, which I thought was for people who actually gave a shit about climbing hard rather than just being on t'interweb, in ukclimbing, and I can't stand that fucking place.
welcome to the internet where people tend to disagree with each other.
And a rather poignant cartoon to lighten the mood...(http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/duty_calls.png)
the punters I see 4 days in every 7 do it instead of climbing. That is, they have a 3 hour window for a session, and they spend half of it doing yoga, and most of the other half talking
That is, they have a 3 hour window for a session, and they spend half of it doing yoga, and most of the other half talking.
Now I'm going to fuck off, and decide whether I want to cancel my fucking account on this piece of shit. I've had it with this bollocks. Frankly, people like you turn this place, which I thought was for people who actually gave a shit about climbing hard rather than just being on t'interweb, in ukclimbing, and I can't stand that fucking place.
But then I saw Dense's post on the other thread about pull-ups on a mono whilst weighing 12 stone and I was inspired.
If you REALLy want to get better at climbing Lund, why not leave Lundon and live somewhere decent for climbing?
people boulder for fun
Long's corollary: As an online discussion about climbing grades or training grows longer, the probability of involving "climbing for fun" approaches 1.
It should be noted that this probability increases at a faster rate (by a factor of between 10 and 104) if Long himself is involved in the discussion
Slackers: Please add to the UKB Wiki the definition of a "Lundy" (apart from being the island full of lovely granite climbing) as being someone who really wants to climb hard, is a training beast, but lives in London?
Not at all, I blundered into a certain individual doing Tai Chi at the Secret Garden once and it made my day. Especially when he proceeded to burn me off using imaginary holds. Its not the Castle after all.excellent, u saw zaf at his local's local bouldering hotspot which just so happens to be the only place in the peak where snake hips will get u up everything, apart from which he's also very talented at that kind of thing. i saw the same guy at burbage north shaking like a shitting dog up an overhang with no footlocks or heelhooks which i then cruised in trainers, it wasn't the secret garden after all. no medals required just another slant on the discussion. this threads great ;D
not to worry. i've got some harissa paste!no wonder your eyes are glowing red keymaster!
... the OP was just about something to help my back. It was nothing to do with doing yoga .....
Back to the vitriol ...
At the risk of being accused of being a pedant, the OP was just about something to help my back. It was nothing to do with doing yoga and its influence/relationship with climbing.
'Forrest' Yoga teachers are pretty good at killing students in this respect
For helping your back, making you better at climbing, or making you more flexible?!