UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Krank on January 17, 2007, 05:07:11 pm
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My fingers are fucked, i warm them up and down every climb but crimps still kill the first joints. I have read a few things on acupuncture being good for the joints anyone got any personal experience of it. cheers
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I had some shoddy fingers that would not crimp without pain and I could not climb more than a few times a week. I had a trip planned for 2 weeks in font and was desperate to get them fixed. So I had 2 sessions of acupuncture and ultrasound. The guy had never done acupuncture in finger before but was keen to give it a go :-\ and I let him? After the first session of acupuncture and ultrasound my fingers had noticeably less pain. I had one more session a few days before I left for Font.
I climbed everyday for 10 days with little or no discomfort, I avoided crimping as often as possible during that time but didn't avoid it altogether. A few weeks after returning from font my finger felt amazing and could crimp all day.
I couldn't tell you whether it was the acupuncture, ultrasound or even just using my fingers everyday (so getting more blood to the tendons) that helped.
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cheers mate i thought it might be a good idea. i will go off and hunt down a man to stick pins in my hands. :thumbsup:
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I had acupuncture too for a ring finger injury. The session not only acupuncture but ultrasound massage and massaging of a very tender point under my shoulder blade which apparantly was blocking the flow of chi to my finger(?). Afterwards my finger felt loads better and healed quickly, but I couldn't possibly say which therapy had the greatest effect, or whether it would have healed at the same rate without. I felt good that I'd done something positive about my injury and the fact that I'd spent the money on it made me less likely to rush back to full-on climbing, which helped.
If you believe it's going to help then I think it can. Positive mental attitude and all that.
If you want to crimp like Linford you've got to think like Linford.
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massaging of a very tender point under my shoulder blade which apparantly was blocking the flow of chi to my finger
Sounds like a bunch of tree hugging hippy crap to me.
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Ooooh - yer'old cynic,yer! And you a yoga bunny as well! :D
As with all these things, an open mind but also a hefty pinch of salt required.
If it works, it works, eh?
:off: How's your shoulder tightness, incidentally? Did the eagle arms help?
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the fact that I'd spent the money on it made me less likely to rush back to full-on climbing, which helped.
no doubt - you must have given it as long as an entire week. I've never seen you be so restrained after injury.
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so, how much is ' a hefty pinch of salt' and can anyone recommend a good, small pinch, type of needle thruster in the sheff/barnsley area? got a problematic middle finger that's been keeping me of all holds for weeks :(
hot and cold flushing been slowly repairing but methinks a nice bit of torture could finish it off nicely :o