UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: _sean_ on March 13, 2021, 06:54:52 pm
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Looking for some reccomendations for favourite 7c - 7c+ boulders in the Peaks. Tend to boulder on my own so looking for lines that dont need too much padding
Cheers!
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Middle man direct at the secret garden (or whatever people call it). High quality climbing and proper ‘grit’ feel required
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If I was climbing at that grade on Grit I'd want to do Birdsong @ Bradley and Soul Power @ Froggatt
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Low Rider for 7C+ surely?
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Brad Pit
Western Eyes
The Storm
Blind Fig
Sole Power
Flatworld
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Low Rider for 7C+ surely?
Not bad for a lip traverse with a drop off finish 😁
JB’s list is basically my Eastern Peak dream list (with the exception of blind fig!)
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Middle man direct at the secret garden (or whatever people call it). High quality climbing and proper ‘grit’ feel required
Left Hand Man Direct. I should have given it a proper name.
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The Storm
Isn't The Storm 7B+?
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The Storm
Isn't The Storm 7B+?
Depends if you use a heel or not (BGfBB).
Also, I wouldn't class Sole Power as something that doesn't need much padding.
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The Storm
Isn't The Storm 7B+?
Depends if you use a heel or not (BGfBB).
Go on... (I used a toe).
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The Storm
Isn't The Storm 7B+?
Depends if you use a heel or not (BGfBB).
Go on... (I used a toe).
It broke my ankle...
Anyway Kobe at Wharncliffe is supposed to one of the best of it's grade at around 7c+/8aish
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Grand Doigts at Froggatt is really good - powerful and tenuous at the start and a knacky stand-up-a-millisecond-faster-than-you-fall-off deadpoint to finish. Skin friendly and fine with 2 pads and no spot.
Re: Storm, I found it harder than most of the other stuff on JB’s list (can’t comment on Western Eyes or Sole Power, but took me longer than the others) and it’s a cool move. It’d definitely be on my hit list. Very conditions dependent and can feel damp until it gets the sun, then greasy as soon as it comes round though.
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The Storm
Isn't The Storm 7B+?
Depends if you use a heel or not (BGfBB).
Go on... (I used a toe).
It broke my ankle...
Anyway Kobe at Wharncliffe is supposed to one of the best of it's grade at around 7c+/8aish
Why the slash grade? Has someone suggested it's not 8A?
On a pedant point it's not in the Peak.
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The Storm
Isn't The Storm 7B+?
Isn't Flatworld?
Tetris.
edit: (although it might be tricky alone)
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Isn't Flatworld?
Tetris.
edit: (although it might be tricky alone)
Assume he meant the sit?
Mossatrocity.
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Flatworld sitter is not top 5 material. Quite brutal and not on the best rock.
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Kobe is one of the best at its grade in the country..let alone on grit..I genuinely think its 8A though.
I guess my criteria for quality is good moves, good rock and not too cons dependent (just fucking annoying). Not hugely bothered by "lines"...I mean, you don't look at the mantlepiece when you're poking the fire.
Mossatrocity (obvs i'd say that)
In the flick of time...Looks shit. Climbs great.
Sale Goose...Pure class
River of Life
Brads Wall...Again looks ave, climbs great.
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I hadn't heard of Kobe before. Just seen Ned's vid and looks amazing. Anymore vids out there that people know of? Couldn't see it on Peakbouldering.
Can anyone comment on the landing? Hard to judge from the vid I saw but didn't look great!
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There are a few on Instagram. Landing is sort of ok but complicated. I’d want a few pads and a spot. And to be two inches stronger. You need to be best part of 6 foot, or above, really. Amazing problem though.
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Thanks for the info, I'm 5.8 but my arms are 6.2 so might be a way!
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Kobe is very good. I thought 8A too. If you're used to bouldering on your own it's ok with no spot. I had one big pad and a blubber.
Black Asteroid
Furry/Golden Egg
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Thanks for the info, I'm 5.8 but my arms are 6.2 so might be a way!
:o
(https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/525ccf9d1db70b0b288bc4d9e201b7929fa9e546/0_395_3637_2182/master/3637.jpg?width=620&quality=85&auto=format&fit=max&s=34a06b6a49de11f8cc20f59059723031)
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The Storm
Isn't The Storm 7B+?
Depends if you use a heel or not (BGfBB).
Go on... (I used a toe).
It broke my ankle...
Anyway Kobe at Wharncliffe is supposed to one of the best of it's grade at around 7c+/8aish
Why the slash grade? Has someone suggested it's not 8A?
On a pedant point it's not in the Peak.
Thought I'd seen it with a slash but could be wrong, I've not been on it myself, sounds like it's probably 8a then.
Fair point but Wharncliffe's in the Peak guides so near enough I suppose.
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It's one of those problems where grading for the average height breaks down a bit. If you're average height you might just be able to climb it, but it will feel a grade or more harder than if you were a a few inches taller. So >90% of ascents will be by above average height climbers. The consensus is 8a among these anyway from what I've heard, with taller end climbers finding it easier.
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Mike Adam's said 7C+/8A
https://www.instagram.com/p/BuEiGkYB9z0/?igshid=1eof6kbqescst
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Kobe looks immense but it would definitely require a seige for me to have a chance getting up it.
Could anyone advise how steep it is approximately? It's hard to tell from the videos, but I'm trying to figure out if I could set replica moves on my board which is 42 degrees.
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It's one of those problems where grading for the average height breaks down a bit. If you're average height you might just be able to climb it, but it will feel a grade or more harder than if you were a a few inches taller.
Which are the moves requiring reach? I assume it's the starting moves, but it's not that obvious from looking at Mike's video.
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It's the slap to the big slope with your left hand. Done off a left toehook on the arete/lip (out of shot on vids) by most folk. A fair bit harder if you are totally crucified when you hit the hold, and a lot harder again ( but possible) if you can't reach off the toehook at all. The holds are quite low friction and slopey on this move.
It's a bit less than 30 degrees OHing I reckon.
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I was contemplating whether to try this, I'm 5'10 with +1 ape, reckon its 8A for me still jon?
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Just watching Mike's vid, the crux is the second hand move. Mike is tall enough to not have to use the toehook as he can keep his feet on a good shelf (may explain the slash grade). The other ascents I've seen had to use a small nubbin 10 inches higher.
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I was contemplating whether to try this, I'm 5'10 with +1 ape, reckon its 8A for me still jon?
I think you'll just about fit it without feeling demoralising cheated by your lack of reach. Deffo worth a go. I'd guess it'll feel right at the grade.
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I did the same/similar beta as Ned for this, which felt around 8A. I think most of the others who have done it haven't bothered with the bicycle out left for the end or the toe hook at the start. It's a great problem, if you have the span or the muscles to not need the span :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkJPjqltP8I
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I did the move with a high left heel, I'm 5'5'' with a positive ape but not sure how much. Move felt ok and I assumed I'd get close to the problem but then never managed the move again... Now that you've got me thinking about it I'm keen to go back. Def felt more like 8A than less
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Like Ben I tried a high left heel, unlike Ben it felt desperate, at 5'6" and a neutral ape index. I can physically reach between the two holds but the move itself felt a long way off.
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(https://i1.wp.com/farm3.static.flickr.com/2678/4251473834_966d38c9b3.jpg)
That's thirty minutes away. I'll be there in ten