UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: tomtom on December 24, 2008, 04:51:55 pm
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Hello,
Went to Kentmere today for the first time, and was having a play on Badger arete which looked like a great line. Its right at the top end of what I can(not) do and might go back and have another crack on boxing day.. was wondering if there was any beta? Could do the top bit via a large LH hold to the left, feet up high & crank up for a break. But getting there from a SDS looked really tough. The other way seemed to be work up crimps on the RH face and just to the left of the arete - pull hard and up to break - though my fingers were getting knackered for that approach by the end,
Cheers,
T
ps - hello to Liam who was working it too if he goes on here..
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Your second suggestion (crimps) is what I did.
It's a really cool set of moves, but certainly not the 7a+ RockFax thinks it is.
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Yeah the sitter felt about V5ish - starting just right of the arete and then a couple of slappy moves and big pulls on edges on the right and a decent sidepull for the left as you worked the feet up. I recall the guidebook saying a big hold on the left is not in? Which if it is the one I am thinking, kind of detracts from the obvious line :-\
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Your second suggestion (crimps) is what I did.
It's a really cool set of moves, but certainly not the 7a+ RockFax thinks it is.
Cheers GCW, the lakesbloc topo gives it 6c+ - and seeing as the hardest thing I've climbed is 7a, my failure today would seem to indicate about the right grade! The last crimp/step up move felt pretty powerful...
T
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I'm sure there's a vid online somewhere. I'll have a look.
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Yeah, first thing here:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=cZc4bvprpxA (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=cZc4bvprpxA)
I seem to remember we started on holds below the break, then into the break. Is that a crouch start, Greg? :lol:
Dug out a couple of pics of when Coolboy and I went:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1125/1393687130_220e98d4c2.jpg)
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1334/1392800213_bbfb5d21ee_b.jpg)
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yep liam does go on here ;D! looks alot easier on the video lol, some usefull beta so may head down on boxing day tomtom if your around. Although...thorn crag looks awesome?!
happy christmas all, liam
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Cheers GCW for the Beta... muchos deserved waddage...
Liam, didnt make it up on boxing day - but went up this pm.. got all the moves, just not all together! next time eh! really nice moves though - great problem,
Cheers, T
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Managed to bag a couple of hours this afternoon. Went to Kentmere and did a circuit of easy stuff, then settled down to see if I could do Badger Arete.
I started trying it like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqu3jH3Wq-E but being a bit taller I found the heel very bunched. Instead I found a way of toe-hooking the bottom left start hold that the guy in the video above missed (the first crux for me was just pulling on from the sidepull and slopey/crozzley pocket, and slapping right had to where he started.
When I got the left hand pinch/crimp I then stepped through with my right onto the good shoogly hold, and toe-hooked the low left sidepull. This allows a devious roll through to the high crimp/pinch on the arete, before stretching up left to the good hold.
I feel I found a cunning, devious sequence and will hear no suggestions that I just lanked it.
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2 other things - 1.Tom Tom, I had kind of always assumed you'd been a 7Cish climber since forever. Funny reading about you pulling hard on this.
2. Wish I'd taken a video of my lanky arse getting dragging up this for amusement / comparison purposes.
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Old old old, failed attempt.
https://youtu.be/wLplZLnij4A
EDIT: Bonus wad if you can identify the T shirt...
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Old old old, failed attempt.
https://youtu.be/wLplZLnij4A
EDIT: Bonus wad if you can identify the T shirt...
Or the hoody! 😂
Old skoool :punk: