UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Tommy on May 04, 2013, 10:33:34 pm
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and the funny thing is, neither ascent was the hardest of the day!
Absolutely, me and Nathan were totally hussled by Pete W. The best line on the crag has now been done. That one trick, rubber hipped pony is on fire.
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Up on Wimberry Tom Randall 2nd ascent of Appointment with Death (E9 6c)...... grit ain't dead baby.
How the fuck did he gay pirate pony wing his way up that?? Kneebarring a pebble? P.S. Someone post news on what Pete W did.
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and the funny thing is, neither ascent was the hardest of the day!
Absolutely, me and Nathan were totally hussled by Pete W. The best line on the crag has now been done. That one trick, rubber hipped pony is on fire.
Direct start to appointment?
Direct finish to madman?
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Dark matter?
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Holy shit, assuming its the project under appointment, its big news! Question is, will he call it Appointment with Jeff? I hope there was a decent photographer there, can't wait to see pics.
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Holy shit, assuming its the project under appointment, its big news! Question is, will he call it Appointment with Jeff? I hope there was a decent photographer there, can't wait to see pics.
According to Wild Country on everyone's favourite social networking site:
Big day at Wimberry yesterday Tom Randall gets 2nd ascent of 'Appointment with Death' Pete Whittaker adds new E9(?)
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Tom and Pete's adventures filmed by Hot Aches Productions big thanks to Adrian Samarra Productions...should be two awesome videos...not often you get two E9's on film in a day and a first ascent to boot!!
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photographers and cameramen, the edit will be awesome, and mike seemed chuffed with his pics!
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From WC on twitter:
Pete Whittaker big new route at Wimberry yesterday...arete left + below Appointment with Fear....'8b and safe' according to Randall. E9 7a?
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So is it a sit start to fear? Death still to come
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Wow! I'm sure Miles reckon that was going to be two e grades harder than Danger Mouse. I'm guessing he must have missed a gear trick, but even so...
Awesome work fellas!
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What a line: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=125664 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=125664)
I wonder how many ascents MaDMAn has had? Makes a lot of E8s look like baby E8.
Have there been any?
Total kudos to all involved on Saturday.
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Nice write up by Pete of his, Tom and Nathans great day out at Wimberry
http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/community/blogs/2013/05/12/Pete_Whittaker_amazing_new_route_on_the_best_grit_day_ever/ (http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/community/blogs/2013/05/12/Pete_Whittaker_amazing_new_route_on_the_best_grit_day_ever/)
(http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/images/srv/calendar/Sponsored_Climbers_3/Screen-Shot-2013-05-10-at-11.44.43.jpg)
Wow!
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Amazing. Pete Whittaker - purveyor of the best E9 prows on grit? Now Partheon is dead his thing at Burbage is the one to do and, visually, I think it's the better line anyway. Looking forward to seeing the footage.
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Hate to be the pedant, but how is this a significant repeat? :-\
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I've said it before and I'll say it again: This is not a repeat.
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I guess because 2 out of 3 of the ascents reported in Pete's blog were repeats thats why its been posted here. :shrug:
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I've said it before and I'll say it again: This is not a repeat.
You're repeating it's not a repeat? Is that a double negative? Is this a coded message to say Pete's ascent wasn't the first? What other signs should we look for? Swallows flying upside-down underneath the prow?
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Hard to split the topic now though it should have its own thread
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Well whatever thread it should be in I think it was cool he kept Miles' name for the route because its great. Nathan should of called his new route Penfold maybe?!
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I'm being a bit dumb here, miles' name? What route are we on about?
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I thought the project name was appointment with fred?
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I'm being a bit dumb here, miles' name? What route are we on about?
Apparently Miles Gibson had tried the line a while back so Pete Whitty gave the route the name that Miles had lined up for it, if he had done it. A modest nod to development.
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No nod at all. That was sam's name in homage to a shit dj which I have been forced to endure over the years, nothing to do with miles. He was torn between calling "death" "jeff" but didn't in the end. This name was banded about when the lines were first tried back after the day, of fear obviously
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No nod at all. That was sam's name in homage to a shit dj which I have been forced to endure over the years, nothing to do with miles. He was torn between calling "death" "jeff" but didn't in the end. This name was banded about when the lines were first tried back after the day, of fear obviously
right ok, nice insight.
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Sorry for posting it here.. I couldn't find a 'significant new stuff' thread...
Still I gave all the pedants a chance for a good work out ;)
It is a cracking line!
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It's gob smacking, as is a lot of the stuff at wimberry. I think pete, tommy, et al will have a lot of new great stuff to report over the next few months
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Provided the weather doesn't go to complete ratshit. Again.
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Sam understandably thought the name Appointment with death was a bit willy-waverish if taken (too) seriously. His plan therefore was to balance things up by naming his next project (which was actually what became Dangermouse) Appointment with Jeff - not only an amusing play on words but also, as Lee has said, a reference to his favourite DJ and planned post-route celebration. Personally I'm not a fan of either Dangermouse or Baron Greenback as names and would have loved three variations on Appointment on the prow. But I'm not in charge, more's the pity.
I agree it deserves its own thread but at least it kept it off the UKC radar. Most significant grit route since Equilibrium as far as I'm concerned.
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Uncanny how much it looks like the mirror image of Parthian in that last photo. And similarities in terms of the uncertainty of the gear quality. I don't know my 80s cartoon history so hadn't realised the origin of the name :'(
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Sam understandably thought the name Appointment with death was a bit willy-waverish if taken (too) seriously. His plan therefore was to balance things up by naming his next project (which was actually what became Dangermouse) Appointment with Jeff - not only an amusing play on words but also, as Lee has said, a reference to his favourite DJ and planned post-route celebration. Personally I'm not a fan of either Dangermouse or Baron Greenback as names and would have loved three variations on Appointment on the prow. But I'm not in charge, more's the pity.
I agree it deserves its own thread but at least it kept it off the UKC radar. Most significant grit route since Equilibrium as far as I'm concerned.
Sick line. At least he didn't call it 'Wings of Steel'. Or was that Batfink? Batfink was great.
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Bat fink was genius, I thought it had been called appointment with jeff. Baron fuckin greenback! One of the best lines on grit, baron fuckin greenback! As bad as lazy Ryan with lannie bassam n el mocho with that shit name in Yorkshire. If only I had a modicum of talent we'd have some proper names
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You mean lazy Ryan with Bertie Gerwick and el mocho with Lannie Bassham? I agree, the name is poor for the line...
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Exactly andi, such poor names I'd forgotten them.
Appointment with fear, partheon shot, knocking on heavens door. Names not to be trifled with.
If Ryan does the lawrencefield project I'm gonna stand outside his door till he comes up with a worthy name instead of tesco sparrow.
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The result of an "appointment" is a "diagnosis".... so the culmination of this piece of climbing history should be "Diagnosis Murder"... which would also be a fitting tribute to everyone's favorite lunchtime Dick Van Dyke mystery medical detective drama.
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Rendezvous With Mortality?
Morbid Diary Event?
Consultancy At Dignitas?
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'Decision by forum'?
FFS, it doesn't matter it's just a name. What a line!
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Given the technical difficulty and the danger factor, I propose (sorry for my hubris) "Ne Bis In Idem". I don't think any (future) ascensionist would like to do it again...
Otherwise "Pink Anasazi" is my vote.
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Rendezvous With Mortality?
Morbid Diary Event?
Consultancy At Dignitas?
10.30 with the Coroner
Meeting with the Mortician
Undertaker's Schedule
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Shipman's surgery? Oh no, that one's taken.
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Looks amazing. Surely the obvious choice on there was:
Appointment With Beer :beer2:
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Already exists. As does Baron Greenback in fact.
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Break the theme, be bold. Fucknut or Arse candle.
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Exactly andi, such poor names I'd forgotten them.
Appointment with fear, partheon shot, knocking on heavens door. Names not to be trifled with.
If Ryan does the lawrencefield project I'm gonna stand outside his door till he comes up with a worthy name instead of tesco sparrow.
+1. Except I might not bother standing outside Ryan's door.
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On a Wim?
A wim and a prayer?
The wombles of wimberry common?
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I was in the Union the other night with (get me) Johnny Dawes (twas his birthday), John Allen, Tom and Pete, and others. Pete was casting about for names for the route. Having heard the suggestions, count yourself lucky that he gave it something as classy as Baron Greenback.
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No nod at all. That was sam's name in homage to a shit dj which I have been forced to endure over the years, nothing to do with miles. He was torn between calling "death" "jeff" but didn't in the end. This name was banded about when the lines were first tried back after the day, of fear obviously
right ok, nice insight.
Are we not crossed wires here? Appt with Jeff became Dangermouse, Miles was trying the route Pete has now done and was calling it Baron Greenback hence it is some kind of nod?
Personally I don't mind the name; not everything has to be serious.
No idea how there is nothing on ukc yet. Its a week after and this is massive news
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Once again Dense is busting out the wisdom. There have been some pretty dire names for some pretty amazing lines recently...
Then again I would vote for Arse Candle :2thumbsup:
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No idea how there is nothing on ukc yet. Its a week after and this is massive news
This is just a guess but I suspect UKC is often torn between breaking news quickly and holding back publishing until the whole package of sponsor-branded video and images is ready. Understandably ... Wild Country etc are entitled to share the glory.
I was thinking similar but they often publish a snippet with 'more info to follow'. Anyway what do I care the three blog posts from the people there were really good to read so I'm hardly gagging for the world according to Wild Country
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Crepitating Bowel Erosion (at least Fiend will get it).
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Anyway what do I care the three blog posts from the people there were really good to read so I'm hardly gagging for the world according to Wild Country
Pete's blog is on the Wild Country website.
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Break the theme, be bold. Fucknut or Arse candle.
Like either of the above.
How about mixing it up - Asshat Undertaker?
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Anyway what do I care the three blog posts from the people there were really good to read so I'm hardly gagging for the world according to Wild Country
Pete's blog is on the Wild Country website.
It feels like Pete has written it though rather than some sort of press release sent to ukc.
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It feels like Pete has written it though rather than some sort of press release sent to ukc.
It's up now and reads like a series of cut and paste quotes from the various blogs and other articles.
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A point meant with jest?
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They copy and pasted Willackers text from his Vimeo of Hired Goons and then claimed "Will told UKC:".
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I reckon route naming should go back to the 40's, what wrong with stuff like such-and-such crack, such-and-such corner, the 'great prow' sound fine. Jumpers for goal posts and all that.
Mind you I do have a soft spot for 'let's get killed' as a route name.
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Has Let's Get Killed had a repeat? Or any of TdG's stuff up there?
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I was in the Union the other night with (get me) Johnny Dawes (twas his birthday), John Allen, Tom and Pete, and others. Pete was casting about for names for the route. Having heard the suggestions, count yourself lucky that he gave it something as classy as Baron Greenback.
Good point Grimer. It could have been Smurf's Cum Covered Cock if he'd taken JA's suggestion.
I really hope this route gets some repeats as it totally deserves it. And you.don't need to contemplate dying!
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Do you think the bolts are ok then? Reading Pete's blog it seems like he felt they were a bit iffy. If its genuinely safe I'd be really keen to take a look when the mal doigt un-mals. Not so keen on dying though.
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I think he said (correct me if im wrong tom) that it was to do with the amount of bolts. Ie three gives enough room for error, whereas two or even one would not have been enough to justify a lead. In singularity they're not great gear, but as a whole they're provide just enough safety.
The routes up on Wilderness rocks are pretty high on my list, but its hard to commit to walking up there with Wimberry so close by...
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Nathan, you're on the money.
Stu, let's do it. I'm up for repeating it for sure.
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I'll give it a bingo-bango as well if I can get out. Keep me in the loop if you're heading up there...
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I'll give it a bingo-bango as well if I can get out. Keep me in the loop if you're heading up there...
I'd be up for some of that action, Mr Littlefair can go first though ;)
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its going to be a trade route by the end of the summer...
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They copy and pasted Willackers text from his Vimeo of Hired Goons and then claimed "Will told UKC:".
To be fair that is the description I gave them.
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The routes up on Wilderness rocks are pretty high on my list, but its hard to commit to walking up there with Wimberry so close by...
At least the walk up to wilderness is pretty easy definately not as much of a slog as wimberry. If you take a MTB you could cycle up the path do some routes at wilderness then when the midges come in move along to top to wimberry climb there till the midges become unbearable and ride back down.
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I'll give it a bingo-bango as well if I can get out. Keep me in the loop if you're heading up there...
I'd be up for some of that action, Mr Littlefair can go first though ;)
If they hold him, that doesn't mean they will hold you!
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It's worth pointing out (unless others think this is obvious) that this should still be considered a headpoint route as the old bolts are similar to the PS flake. They may well seem bomber, but take enough monster lobs and something will break eventually and then one of the best lines on grit will be wrecked (i.e. no one really wants to solo a slappy top end 8b). So please, can people not take a gung-ho GU approach. I know Pete thinks the same. Let's try and keep the present character of the route :-)
Oh and by the way, if you fall off before you get to the old bolts, you'll most likely be in hospital. Hmmm... maybe not so safe then :-\
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Sounds pretty sketch. I've seen bolts that look fine snap under bodyweight. I wouldn't be too encouraged that there's 3 of them. How far apart are they? Is it possible to equalise them? Route looks amazing
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They're bolts that were put in in the 80's, they look terrifying. The route is obviously a significant undertaking and I think it's getting a fair bit of litotes
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Dense, are you sure they are from the 80s? I'd have thought they would date from the 1960s or early 70s. Grit ethics changed completely in the Allen/Bancroft era - pegs and bolts were not uncommon before then - see the Burbage Cioch. They will most likely be old caving bolts, ie self-drilling sleeve with a short bolt screwed into it. These were pretty crap on the day they were placed.
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I'm sure Duncan's right and they're much older than 80s. For what its worth I found it better, psychologically, to discount the one on the top arete (same era presumably) when I led Appointment. I clipped it but treated as next to worthless. Not sure I'd feel very much better about having three of them.
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You're quite right Duncan, I thought it was much earlier but wasn't sure. I had faith that someone would know and say something to the contrary ;)
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I find it a tad ironic we have loads of votes for 'whatever Pete likes' but very few for what Pete actually did like...
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I was joking. Although I'd love to have a go on a top rope.
If the bolts are anything like the old ones you see at Millstone and other old gritsone quarries then I wouldn't like to weight them, never mind take a fall on them!
Great effort from Pete.
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I find it a tad ironic we have loads of votes for 'whatever Pete likes' but very few for what Pete actually did like...
I think they are one and the same but 'whatever Pete likes' just covers the principle as well
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Dodgy bolts?! Tsk.. should get it re-equipped with glue-in 6'' nails. Stainless obviously.
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It's worth pointing out (unless others think this is obvious) that this should still be considered a headpoint route as the old bolts are similar to the PS flake. They may well seem bomber, but take enough monster lobs and something will break eventually and then one of the best lines on grit will be wrecked (i.e. no one really wants to solo a slappy top end 8b). So please, can people not take a gung-ho GU approach. I know Pete thinks the same. Let's try and keep the present character of the route :-)
I understand where you are coming from here but this statement is rather in opposition to the entire development of climbing and mountaineering, and not to mention a tad presumptuous. Pete fell off didn't he?
Let's not try to rewrite history and suggest Parthian was broken by ground-up falls. It was broken by a headpointer. Many of the falls onto it were also by headpointers - not least Seb, or Dunne's sack of rocks. Whilst it might seem logical that the falls had weakened it, the argument is purely conjecture. It could equally have been a badly placed piece or poor choice of piece.
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I'm not suggesting PS was broken by GU'ers - just trying to draw parallels with how we view/viewed the protection on each route.
Anyway, all good points Adam and as ever it's important to look at the forward progression of climbing and mountaineering. Imagine telling one of the 90s boys that Braille Trail was a good flash proposition. They'd think you were mad! :-)
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I agree with JB's (possible) implication that after a couple of headpoint repeats to confirm the grade/quality, it should be left for people in the future to be super-strong / super-skilled enough to have a fair shot at onsighting it :2thumbsup:
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So is someone going to stand at the bottom of the route for evermore wielding a big staff and saying "you shalt not pass (unless you have a respectable CV with 10 or more routes of E7 or harder)".
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Imagine telling one of the 90s boys that Braille Trail was a good flash proposition. They'd think you were mad! :-)
True enough, but to be fair to 90's climbers on Brialle Trail what used to be a shoddy marginal placement is now a bomber cam slot by all accounts.
:worms:
Fiend - I'm not sure JB was arguing that it should be considered off limits to head pointers, just that it shouldn't be considered off limits for ground uppers.
I think there are too many factors to take into account for blanket disapproval of one style or the other to be appropriate. For instance Adam Ondra is less likely to break the bolts on it than John Dunne, regardless of which way they attempted it. Should John Dunne be banned from trying it?
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Yes.
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:lol: Should have seen that one coming
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Dense, are you sure they are from the 80s? I'd have thought they would date from the 1960s or early 70s.
Someone from the other channel was saying 1969 (no idea of his source). Old as me then give or take a few months, and I'm pretty knackered.
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phil is a chew local he probably knows the person who put them in
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Dense, are you sure they are from the 80s? I'd have thought they would date from the 1960s or early 70s.
Someone from the other channel was saying 1969 (no idea of his source). Old as me then give or take a few months, and I'm pretty knackered.
If one were to clip onto and fall on your bolts would they come off? Or just stretch alot ;)
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Imagine telling one of the 90s boys that Braille Trail was a good flash proposition. They'd think you were mad! :-)
True enough, but to be fair to 90's climbers on Brialle Trail what used to be a shoddy marginal placement is now a bomber cam slot by all accounts.
:worms:
That's now true (I saw Michele Caminati get a Friend 1 in I think??!!), but in the context of Tommy's point when Adam flashed it it was a poor BD 000 cam in a flared sandy slot and didn't look like it would hold, so probably very similar to the 90's situation. Anyway, off topic.
Might as well make an on topic comment. This line is incredible, its brilliant that Pete has done it. I like all the shenanigans with the gear, and I like the name. Regarding the bolts and the headpoint / GU issue, seems rather academic! Steep French 8b climbing at Wimberry is very unlikely to get any ground up attention for a while surely!
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Imagine telling one of the 90s boys that Braille Trail was a good flash proposition. They'd think you were mad! :-)
True enough, but to be fair to 90's climbers on Brialle Trail what used to be a shoddy marginal placement is now a bomber cam slot by all accounts.
:worms:
There was a bit more to the 90s than dodgy headpoints. But then, I would say that wouldn't I? :-\
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I agree with JB's (possible) implication that after a couple of headpoint repeats to confirm the grade/quality, it should be left for people in the future to be super-strong / super-skilled enough to have a fair shot at onsighting it :2thumbsup:
Maybe. The issue with this route is if the bolts break, there's no pro. At some point down the line the bolts will break, but it wouldn't be damaging to the rock. So the argument that first and foremost you should protect the rock sort of isn't relevant. You're just preserving the route :-\
I don't see it being an issue really. Anyone who was serious about trying it GU would be in the F8b on-sight league and familiar with high-end gritstone (i.e. el mocho, Ryan). Anyone headpointing it would not bother going on the sharp end until they thought they could do it!
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There was a bit more to the 90s than dodgy headpoints. But then, I would say that wouldn't I? :-\
Was it dodgy hair-dos and tights? :-\ :-\
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Some good comments there. All I was trying to suggest was, as BJ guessed:
I think there are too many factors to take into account for blanket disapproval of one style or the other to be appropriate.
Carmen Picasso would probably be a more relevant route if you wanted to draw comparisons. You never know what talented youths are waiting in the wings, a point hammered home to me at Raven tor last night as I watched some youth rinse Mecca, whilst I hung on a bolt opening year five of my pointless siege of Body Machine...
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The issue with this route is if the bolts break, there's no pro.
Maybe, maybe not. What about these?
(http://tinyurl.com/a44oyvl)
Extraction of the old bolts might be difficult/controversial obviously.
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That had occurred to me too - we've got a box of reusable expansion bolts at work with rubber sleeves. I suspect though the old bolts will snap rather than leave a clean hole.
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Like for like replacement :worms: :worms: :worms:
JB if you're using words like "rinse" instead of "send", you're probably well ahead of the youths of today ;D
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Like for like replacement :worms: :worms: :worms:
JB if you're using words like "rinse" instead of "send", you're probably well ahead of the youths of today ;D
iOS typing error ;)
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If the bolts broke leaving shafts in place the all you would need is a few quickdraws attached to fuckoff neodymium magnets. Dropping SCIENCE on yo ass.
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Picture from Mike Hutton (http://www.mikehuttonphotography.com/) of Pete on Baron Greenback
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eDQAyF4Tg5M/UZSfO7EV1eI/AAAAAAAABtI/T8FrbmjJx_k/w433-h650-no/395756_10151431863958595_393656370_n.jpg)
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It's been said before in this thread I think but that really does look reminiscent of Partheon Shot
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Perhaps. But still, I've always thought this an infinitely more impressive and inspiring piece of rock than Parthian.
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Really, I always thought it was quite impressive.....
(http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/parthenon-and-the-acropolis-landmark-1.jpg)
EDIT: You edited that too quickly Andy!! :lol:
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Perhaps. But still, I've always thought this an infinitely more impressive and inspiring piece of rock than Parthian.
maybe not infiniteltly but I do agree on the whole, though you shouldn't speak ill of the dead
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Perhaps. But still, I've always thought this an infinitely more impressive and inspiring piece of rock than Parthian.
Yeah, agreed, Parthian looks shit http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=142002 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=142002)
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Yes, that's exactly what I said :-\.