UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: willackers on April 28, 2013, 01:42:59 am
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Hired Goons E8 6c - First Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/64967928)
One of the Peak Districts Last Great Problems! :)
I'm absolutely made up to have got the first ascent of such a great route. Hired Goons is the long awaited direct finish to the 1984 Johnny Dawes Classic, Charlotte Rampling, which can be found at Gardoms Edge in the Peak District. The direct finish has been a well known project for some time, although it has been top roped clean by 2 or 3 climbers in the past it has never been soloed. It shares the same start as Charlotte Rampling, but where that breaks left towards the arete Hired Goons climbs straight up via a hard move into an undercut, this is followed by a rather serious last move dyno to a hidden pocket just over the lip. Even with pads a fall from the last hard moves would be quite nasty......
I climbed it above 3 pads after practicing it on a rope. I was alone when I climbed it and the conditions weren't great but it all worked out just fine. I've given it a grade of E8 6c, there is no gear, and even with pads it feels a little bit too high to be a boulder problem.
I hope you enjoy the video.
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Lovely bit of climbing ... and I did enjoy the video, since you ask.
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Nice one Will.
How many times did you do it/cameras do you own?
Nice vid.
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Genius Simpsons reference.
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:yawn:
Nice one Will.
How many times did you do it/cameras do you own?
Nice vid.
Cheers Nick.
I ended up doing the full thing twice! I wanted to get the undercut move from a different angle and ended up committed to the top, again :(
I bouldered about at the beginning to get warm and ready for the send.
It really is very good, and not ridiculously hard, but just hard enough.
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I don't know why that yawn smiley is there? I didn't mean that to be there, haha
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Keep mopping 'em up Will :2thumbsup:
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Nice one Will :)
I like the trademark Will Atkinson dancing leg kick on the top out :)
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I ended up doing the full thing twice! I wanted to get the undercut move from a different angle and ended up committed to the top, again :(
crazy! great effort will!
bit irrelevant given the danger, but what font grade do you reckon?
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.
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I ended up doing the full thing twice! I wanted to get the undercut move from a different angle and ended up committed to the top, again :(
crazy! great effort will!
bit irrelevant given the danger, but what font grade do you reckon?
Cheers.
I reckon soft 7C-ish? Maybe? :shrug:
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I hope you enjoy the video.
For once I won't be muting the soundtrack... Good effort Will! Looks terrifying.
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Fine effort and a good vid too!
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Good name too ;)
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Thats a great video
Well done
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Good effort Will, nice vid.