UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: nik at work on April 20, 2013, 06:39:56 pm
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A slightly squeezed in line just right of the line of aid bolts (Face of Grace). Starting at two obvious chipped holds climb directly up the steep slab. Low in the grade but the landing is a bit of a shocker!! As for Face of Grace with a team of spotters and a bunch of pads this could well be a highball??
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Managed to get a crap photo of the buttress off my phone, and even draw some lines on it. The poor quality means it shows pretty much nothing of any interest but hey-ho. Anyway Twenty20 is the purple line.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/8667030138_8790573df9.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/23476714@N06/8667030138/)
Warland (http://www.flickr.com/photos/23476714@N06/8667030138/#) by Nik Jennings (http://www.flickr.com/people/23476714@N06/), on Flickr
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And here's a little video of Adam Hughes getting the second ascent:
Twenty20 (E6 6b) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/64558686)
Sadly the video makes the climb look smaller than it is (though I do concede it is pretty short) and also doesn't really convey the unpleasant nature of the landing which even with the 3 or 4 mats in place for this ascent would still be best left untested. Also the "bolt" Adam clips definitely falls into the psychological protection bracket, it's about the same thickness as a piece of tin-foil and it's surprising it took the weight of the quickdraw...
He also did Face of Grace (which I didn't get a video of) but as he's not a midget he was able to use a different sequence which (dare I say it...) cut out a couple of the moves that I found the living end. Yes, that's right, I am a bitter dwarf hell bent on belittling the achievements of the more normal sized gent.
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(http://www.itwouldbescary.com/images/vern_troyer.jpg)
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Nice one Nik.
I see Adam has just blogged about these routes:
http://hughesmountaineering.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/work-and-second-ascents.html (http://hughesmountaineering.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/work-and-second-ascents.html)