UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Tommy on March 12, 2010, 04:03:35 pm
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Don't know if it's been mentioned elsewhere and I've been unobservervant, but Pete Whittaker recently did the supposed last great arete project at Kinder. He's very modest about these things, but at least if there's some info on here there's somewhere to look...
Absolutely lovely looking line - bald arete, which is just this side of slabby. Balancy and with an ultra commiting most-points-off finishing move.
Name: Loose Control (not Lose!)
Grade: E8 6c
Crag: Kinder
Done 2 w/e's ago?? Good effort as he made it look easy as usual.
Excellent highballing up at Edale Rocks as well if anyone heads up that way. Well recommended.
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He has had a good few weeks then.
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Yeah, brilliant. Relatively low grade, as hasn't this been tried by a good few people? Just shows you.
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Yeah, it was always talked about being E9+ if I recall. Hey, stick a weak person on something hard and they'll always find a way huh?!
Still, someone had better burn his Beastmaker (or chip the Earlmaker) soon or he will get strong.... :P
See ya Sat eve Grimer if you're at the Shaff.
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Holy Fuck! The one by Raggald's Wall I presume? Never looked E8.
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photos etc?
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He has had a good few weeks then.
why?
How's Chris?
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Wow. Though slabby doesn't sound like the one I'm thinking of?
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Wow. Though slabby doesn't sound like the one I'm thinking of?
It's just to the right of Dave turnbull's E6. I think Sam Whittaker might have been working it at some stage?
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Sam had tried it. As recently as last year I think. He texted me when I was having tea with Daila and Chris one time to mention how wild the slap at the top was.
Sounds well meaty. Good effort.
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Holey moley, good effort. Tried this 9 or 10 years ago, I remember the last move involved smearing your right foot by your right hand and laying one on for the slopey scrittly top, with good splat potential. Thought it might be E9 to solo, maybe E8 if you put some sneaky gear around the other side of the arete. Any more details? And did you do the roof crack at Upper Edale?
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I remember the last move involved smearing your right foot by your right hand
Signature move right there.
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I remember the last move involved smearing your right foot by your right hand
Signature move right there.
Yeah he put a couple of nuts round the corner which were placed on lead. Probably a case of hitting the ground still on last move. Or on rope stretch in any case....
Edale roof crack was on agenda but left it too late on skin and time. Scary.
Did you preplace any gear and was it top roped? Move to crack seems very committing when you looking at pads below!
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Did you preplace any gear and was it top roped? Move to crack seems very committing when you looking at pads below!
Did it solo, the crack itself climbs like Joe Brown classic, so no need for gear. Cutting loose felt like Font 7b+ to me, though quite height dependent. Top roped it first, probably once on the day and once on a previous visit. No pads, though I did use a fair bit of tape...
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Is this the thing with the wild cutloose on some climbers vid? Looks mental, great bit of video that.
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not thinking of the mentalist cupboard footage Dave, on consumed? If not, isn't there a prequal to consumed which is presumably what you're thinking of? Is it still available anywhere? Love consumed....
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Is this the thing with the wild cutloose on some climbers vid?
That's the one.