UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: HaeMeS on February 08, 2021, 08:37:30 pm
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Strong Belgian climber Antoin Kaufman reported on his Insta feed Insta that even stronger Belgian Simon Lorenzi has done Big Island Sit: https://www.instagram.com/tonioclimbing/
Edit: Simon Lorenzi reported the story himself on Instagram as wellm https://www.instagram.com/simonlorenzi
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Big news! Jimmy Webb has put a lot of time in to this hasn't he? I thought Id heard rumours of 9A...
(Simon's posted it on his ig https://www.instagram.com/p/CLCxgJ2jDB1/)
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Awesome, cool to see something this hard being done in Font.
And yep Jimmy Webb has put a few trips into it.
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Excellent news!
And top work the ukb grapevine, speediest news service around!
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The Belgians seem to think Big Island is no harder than 8B+. They tend to downgrade a lot of the stuff they climb. Maybe an unintentional game of who’s the biggest downgrader, or a sort of national complex ‘surely we can’t be that strong...’ :-\ ;)
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Big news!
Lucien Martinez says that the stand is 8B+, but not easier than that, for tall people.
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The Belgians seem to think Big Island is no harder than 8B+. They tend to downgrade a lot of the stuff they climb. Maybe an unintentional game of who’s the biggest downgrader, or a sort of national complex ‘surely we can’t be that strong...’ :-\ ;)
I'm now mulling over Will Hunt's probable attitude to Trappist beer, chocolate, and waffles.
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Big news!
Lucien Martinez says that the stand is 8B+, but not easier than that, for tall people.
Lorenzi is quite small, 167 cm, and thinks the stand is 8B+ as well. Kauffmann on the other hand is quite tall.
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The Belgians seem to think Big Island is no harder than 8B+. They tend to downgrade a lot of the stuff they climb. Maybe an unintentional game of who’s the biggest downgrader, or a sort of national complex ‘surely we can’t be that strong...’ :-\ ;)
I'm now mulling over Will Hunt's probable attitude to Trappist beer, chocolate, and waffles.
"Rochefort 10? I tried that once several years ago and it's surely no more than 6%"
;D
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It seems like pretty much everyone (https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/the-big-island) takes 8C for The Big Island, and climbing from the sit in to the start is ~8B+ according to Jimmy (https://www.8a.nu/news/the-big-island-sit-the-worlds-greatest-project). So get your grade maths calculators out: 8B+ in to 8C with no rest = ?
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Sounds mega, after reading Jimmy's report on working it.
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It seems like pretty much everyone (https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/the-big-island) takes 8C for The Big Island, and climbing from the sit in to the start is ~8B+ according to Jimmy (https://www.8a.nu/news/the-big-island-sit-the-worlds-greatest-project). So get your grade maths calculators out: 8B+ in to 8C with no rest = ?
(14+15+4)/2=16.5, so benchmark v16/8C+
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It seems like pretty much everyone (https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/the-big-island) takes 8C for The Big Island, and climbing from the sit in to the start is ~8B+ according to Jimmy (https://www.8a.nu/news/the-big-island-sit-the-worlds-greatest-project). So get your grade maths calculators out: 8B+ in to 8C with no rest = ?
(14+15+4)/2=16.5, so benchmark v16/8C+
AHH. So this is what I sent to O level Math for.
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It seems like pretty much everyone (https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/the-big-island) takes 8C for The Big Island, and climbing from the sit in to the start is ~8B+ according to Jimmy (https://www.8a.nu/news/the-big-island-sit-the-worlds-greatest-project). So get your grade maths calculators out: 8B+ in to 8C with no rest = ?
= 16BC+. Simples.
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I'm well psyched by this!
https://www.grimper.com/news-simon-lorenzi-reussit-big-island-assis-deuxieme-9a-bloc-monde-vient-il-tomber
Apparently the sitter only adds "solid 8A+", according to the link above, so probably still 8C according to Turnips formula... ;D
Here's Hojer doing some of the lower moves a few years ago
https://www.instagram.com/p/BPSPxsXhzQJ/
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Jimmy thought Big Island was 8B+ and climbing into it from the sit was harder than the stand itself but probably still 8B+.
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Big news!
Lucien Martinez says that the stand is 8B+, but not easier than that, for tall people.
Lorenzi is quite small, 167 cm, and thinks the stand is 8B+ as well. Kauffmann on the other hand is quite tall.
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Dez7cMdXUAYG6PC.jpg:large)
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There is a video of Simon Lorenzi on his IG of a problem next to No Kapote Only from a few days ago, and on the photographers feed there is a photo of Charles Albert working The Island with them all, so I'm sure Simoh Lorenzi would have tried them both. It would be interesting to hear how he thinks they compare.
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Jimmy thought Big Island was 8B+ and climbing into it from the sit was harder than the stand itself but probably still 8B+.
Wonder why he changed his mind as he took 8C for it on 8a.
More broadly, I find the grade deflation on this thing pretty confusing. DG did the high start in 2008 and gave it 8C which was then downgraded to 8B+ following repeats. Then the low start was added that apparently bumped it up to 8C (according to the ~15 people who have logged it on 8a.nu), but now that's only 8B+? And adding an 8A+/B/B+ in to the start of that gets you whatever. Someone needs to stick their neck out and give it a big number or 8C is gonna be the new 6c.
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but now that's only 8B+?
One of the people to downgrade it this week said on Insta: "About the grade, it would be aesy to achieve one of my bigest dreams taking it as an 8C but it would’nt be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+," even though he's not climbed 8B+ before and it took him 15-20 days? Smacks of competitive downgrading to me.
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If its 'only' 8B+ why has it taken so long to get done? Doesn't Jimmy Webb eat 8B+ for breakfast?
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https://fanatic-climbing.com/simon-lozenzi-ouvre-the-big-island-assis-simon-lorenzi-fas-the-big-island-sit
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Smack of competitive downgrading to me.
Tell this amateur I'll see him at Paris 2024 :boxing:
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but now that's only 8B+?
One of the people to downgrade it this week said on Insta: "About the grade, it would be aesy to achieve one of my bigest dreams taking it as an 8C but it would’nt be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+," even though he's not climbed 8B+ before and it took him 15-20 days? Smacks of competitive downgrading to me.
All these fellas will have watched the million videos of the Big Island and trained for the those moves specifically. It doesn't surprise me that someone who hasn't climbed 8B+ can climb the Island.
Doesn't make the Island not 8C.
Doesn't make that climber an 8C climber either.
Makes them an Island climber.
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but now that's only 8B+?
One of the people to downgrade it this week said on Insta: "About the grade, it would be aesy to achieve one of my bigest dreams taking it as an 8C but it would’nt be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+," even though he's not climbed 8B+ before and it took him 15-20 days? Smacks of competitive downgrading to me.
It doesn't surprise me that someone who hasn't climbed 8B+ can climb the Island.
Nor me. I'm just wondering what yardstick he's using to declare 8B+ is the appropriate grade?
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but now that's only 8B+?
One of the people to downgrade it this week said on Insta: "About the grade, it would be aesy to achieve one of my bigest dreams taking it as an 8C but it would’nt be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+," even though he's not climbed 8B+ before and it took him 15-20 days? Smacks of competitive downgrading to me.
Isn't this from Antoine Kauffmans insta talking about his ascent of the Big Island (8C)? Rather than Simon Lorenzi on the Big Island Assis (which as far as I can see, he has yet to comment on.
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https://fanatic-climbing.com/simon-lozenzi-ouvre-the-big-island-assis-simon-lorenzi-fas-the-big-island-sit
After a good twenty days of rather wet and warm conditions for the season, it was finally Simon who made the first ascent of the boulder when the big sticky reappeared yesterday.
god bless the big sticky!
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No man is an Island climber.
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Smack of competitive downgrading to me.
Tell this amateur I'll see him at Paris 2024 :boxing:
He told me 2023 was more appropriate...
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More like 2022+ for anyone over 5’5” I reckon.
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More like 2022+ for anyone over 5’5” I reckon.
20,21D (R) if you have small hands from what I've heard.
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but now that's only 8B+?
One of the people to downgrade it this week said on Insta: "About the grade, it would be aesy to achieve one of my bigest dreams taking it as an 8C but it would’nt be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+," even though he's not climbed 8B+ before and it took him 15-20 days? Smacks of competitive downgrading to me.
It doesn't surprise me that someone who hasn't climbed 8B+ can climb the Island.
Nor me. I'm just wondering what yardstick he's using to declare 8B+ is the appropriate grade?
Whenever I see someone who always downgrades or always upgrades I suspect their grade-o-meter is out of whack. I would never personally feel confident to comment either way on a first of the grade. I'm usually just thankful I didn't all off (again)!
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. Someone needs to stick their neck out and give it a big number or 8C is gonna be the new 6c.
it already is
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. Someone needs to stick their neck out and give it a big number or 8C is gonna be the new 6c.
it already is
8C has been standard for a while in my eyes, seems like they are done every week, entry level to hard stuff like 9b is to routes. 8C+ is world class is it not. And i cant believe this wont be 8C+ unless its been Barrowsed.
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And outta nowhere.... he grades it 9A!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CLFXX58DbGN/?igshid=wrw44rsuv70c
Good
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:dance1: 9A :dance1:
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Thank fuck for that.
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Perfect. So good to see font still at the cutting edge.
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Respect to the guy for sticking his neck out and giving it a high grade. For climbing it as well obviously.
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Am I right he's called it Soudain Seul, which translates as Suddenly Alone?
Excited to see the video!
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Unfortunately he used a kneepad, and has therefore missed the opportunity to join Shark’s Ethical Thought Leadership Program.
Looks like there’s been some great conditions in Font recently 😭
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Am I right he's called it Soudain Seul, which translates as Suddenly Alone?
Seems that way. Soudain, Seuls (seuls is pronounced as seul) is also the title of a novel about a couple shipwrecked on an island, by the sailor/writer Isabelle Autissier (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isabelle_Autissier).
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Respect to the guy...For climbing it as well obviously.
Let's not get bogged down in the details.
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Big News!
I Spotted he'd had found small person beta for the Island when he did it and wondered if that'd open the door to this for the smaller but fitter builds. Another good example of mega comp talent focussing on obvious projects. I'm more chuffed about it not just being a big bloke problem than the difficulty to be honest as at 168cm there must be 7C's etc in font that he'd find utterly desperate (tarpe diem, modulor, tour de babel etc) so its nice that its a 9A that all sizes can have a poke at. It was formerly looking like only the +6ft club had a shout which doesn't always represent true "difficutly" as tall people are never allowed to point out about their worse power to weight ratios due to the constant drone of the little voices shouting morpho round their knees. To still be improving beta after 25sessions shows its pretty intricate or good attention to detail and amazing commitment in that its probably his local bouldering but a flipping long way from belgium. It's certainly not a mindset i've ever seen from an equally near london climbing contingent, must be the ferry or something spoiling the weekend wad development vibes which you see from the dutchies and belgians.
i find the grades in font vary wildly like everywhere (and its sheer variety humbles anyone who gets cocky anyway), the personal hardest blocs i've ever tried in font have been 8A+s like double face and Futures Barbares gauche. I thought the BI after one quick look was very much in the Pochon Elephunk grading Style than the Frigault grading camp. So surely people just gradually learn to take the soft "N"B+s etc to cushion the sandbag "N"A+'s, because making grades an exact science is impossible. regardless of the stand grade and beta advances, this is clearly on another level of Fitness compression compared to anything worldwide. Its hard for it to sink in that its been nearly 10 years since i met Jan in font when he first started getting stuck into this, but then again i only know of dabblers or far away holiday trips, it seems only in the last 2 years that the "locals" have really got stuck in. There are still lots of famous doable projects that've held out for a similar time. two mega obvious ones being pilier to desert assis, and Imhothep assis (got a vid somewhere of me doing the crux move on this from a trip 9 years ago, never been back on it!) they must hopefully have their days numbered now from the next gen youths.
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
I think that really depends on what book it was, there is a big difference between 'of mice and men' and 'Lord of the rings'. I do think it would be cheating if he used a hardback bible though.
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No way, imagine the weight penalty of having a hefty tome taped to your leg for the rest of that upside down clamping, seems like a fair exchange to me.
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This is the best thing I have heard all week. The hardest boulderproblem in Bleau was first done with advanced kneepad tactics!
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
Possibly the book the route may be named after?
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
Possibly the book the route may be named after?
That's ok then, I wonder if Lorenzi had to experiment with different editions of the book, to find the right stiffness, thickness. I really hope he didn't tamper with the book, add pages or stiffen the cover and such like.
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I was kind of underwhelmed by this news, inasmuch as you can be underwhelmed by 9A, but this has made it for me. It just adds a bit of mystique to it. So much potential for artistry in the choice of book. For the French, Victor Hugo, naturally; for the English aspirant nothing would do but a first edition of Thackeray's Vanity Fair.
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soudain-seuls-Isabelle-Autissier/dp/2234077435 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soudain-seuls-Isabelle-Autissier/dp/2234077435)
£2.80 for the kit to get you up font 9A is good value. Presuming he didn't use the kindle edition.
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I've patented the kneepad with inflatable insert already, before anyone tries.
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soudain-seuls-Isabelle-Autissier/dp/2234077435 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soudain-seuls-Isabelle-Autissier/dp/2234077435)
£2.80 for the kit to get you up font 9A is good value. Presuming he didn't use the kindle edition.
Are we sure he used this book though? Were there witnesses?
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ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
The first draft of Baart van Rajj's new guide '9 + 10 - 1 straight up problem in fontainebleau'.
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does anyone happen to know whether it's possible to link the Big Island assis into Conviction?
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If he didn't use Soudain Seuls I will be disappointed
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
I think that really depends on what book it was, there is a big difference between 'of mice and men' and 'Lord of the rings'. I do think it would be cheating if he used a hardback bible though.
Hardback Bible? You mean the old Lancs brick? Hauling that up anything is well worth 9A in my opinion.
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For the French, Victor Hugo, naturally; for the English aspirant nothing would do but a first edition of Thackeray's Vanity Fair.
My bet is on a tailored combination of the seven volumes of Proust's "À la Recherche du Temps Perdu" - then he could compensate for variations in leg bulk / clothing by swapping different parts in and out.
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ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
The first draft of Baart van Rajj's new guide '9 + 10 - 1 straight up problem in fontainebleau'.
second draft, first draft was for No Kapote Only
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Good to see climbing done by the book
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Ah thats my Uber....bye
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A Camus would be appropriate.
When Greg Cameron soloed Lost Arrow Chimney in the 70s he carried The Myth of Sisyphus to read in case he was stuck behind another party. (History does not record if it was used as a knee pad on the numerous wide sections)
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Isn't there a pic somewhere of Haston using a book with a cam in a wide crack.
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
Possibly the book the route may be named after?
Well done hive!
Dear readers, the key to doing 9A is to have a friend who is a bookseller! Indeed, Oriane agreed to sacrifice her current reading, Soudain Seul, for the Big Island. Simon taped the book to his thigh, under his knee pad, to gain a little length; it works.
https://www.grimper.com/news-il-annonce-9a-bloc-les-coulisses-realisation-historique-simon-lorenzi
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Another fucking thing to take to the crag. Therabands, liquid chalk, block chalk, portable fingerboard, portable fan, kneepads, and now a selection of leather-bound hardbacks.
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Another fucking thing to take to the crag. Therabands, liquid chalk, block chalk, portable fingerboard, portable fan, kneepads, and now a selection of leather-bound hardbacks.
and glue
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Reacher strapped the book to his leg. He’d picked up the paperback at a thrift store. He hadn’t read it. Reacher didn’t have time to read. Leave your nose in a book and you never knew who or what might be checking you out. And in a town like Fontainebleau that could get you killed.
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Another fucking thing to take to the crag. Therabands, liquid chalk, block chalk, portable fingerboard, portable fan, kneepads, and now a selection of leather-bound hardbacks.
At what point is it just cheating? :worms:
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And don't get me started on calling the sit start to a problem anything other than the problem's original name + "Sit Start". :spank:
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Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.
Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating ::)
A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
Possibly the book the route may be named after?
Well done hive!
Dear readers, the key to doing 9A is to have a friend who is a bookseller! Indeed, Oriane agreed to sacrifice her current reading, Soudain Seul, for the Big Island. Simon taped the book to his thigh, under his knee pad, to gain a little length; it works.
https://www.grimper.com/news-il-annonce-9a-bloc-les-coulisses-realisation-historique-simon-lorenzi
What a great little write up. Everything about this makes me love it, the story, the problem, the book and most of all its in Font where the whole idea of bouldering is rooted.
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It's certainly not a mindset i've ever seen from an equally near london climbing contingent, must be the ferry or something spoiling the weekend wad development vibes which you see from the dutchies and belgians.
Not a wad and unlikely to ever do any development in Font :lol: - but I have lived in London for a while and can confirm that booking the ferry and tying yourself into a potential washout is a lot less appealing than just picking the area of the UK with the best conditions on a Friday night and driving there. Add in Brexit related queues on this side and it makes it even worse unfortunately.
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A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere. He won the junior title at the world championships in 2016 and in 2017 he climbed Action Directe. Last spring, the strong climbers in Belgium suddenly started to train seriously. That had a big effect, and in six months the number of >8c routes in the country doubled. Simon was the one who climbed the country's first 9a. He was also the first to repeat 'Traction Universelle'. This was the first 8c (+?) in Belgium and had been climbed by his father Claude in 1994.
Belgium has produced quite a few strong climbers over the years, including world-class athletes like Claude Barbier, Arnould t’Kint, Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Muriel Sarkany and Anak Verhoeven. I’m really curious about this next generation. Seb Berthe (and his amazing summer in the Alps) and Simon Lorenzi are the first two to show how strong and keen they are. Keep an eye on Antoin Kaufman (strongest of them all?) who may be making headlines later this year.
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Short article on the other channel. Best viewed for the link to David Graham's short FA video of The Island, which made me feel nostalgic - old style Dragons (V10s would have made it perfect), and chuntering about the Island being a mental theory to avoid being categorized as insane.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/02/the_worlds_second_font_9a_for_simon_lorenzi_in_fontainebleau-72709 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/02/the_worlds_second_font_9a_for_simon_lorenzi_in_fontainebleau-72709)
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Short article on the other channel. Best viewed for the link to David Graham's short FA video of The Island, which made me feel nostalgic - old style Dragons (V10s would have made it perfect), and chuntering about the Island being a mental theory to avoid being categorized as insane.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/02/the_worlds_second_font_9a_for_simon_lorenzi_in_fontainebleau-72709 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/02/the_worlds_second_font_9a_for_simon_lorenzi_in_fontainebleau-72709)
The supposed "first ascent" footage of The Big Island in that article is a disgraceful mash up of footage recorded over different sessions though. A bit disappointing. :no:
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And don't get me started on calling the sit start to a problem anything other than the problem's original name + "Sit Start". :spank:
wot no Assis?
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No to be fair, other viable options are "Assis" (regardless of country / local language), "Sit" or "SS" if you need to save space in the guide ;)
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So, reading between the lines, does this open the door to books strapped to feet as well then? As we used to joke about Brad pit sitter only being possible in a pair of garry glitter platforms for sub 6ft 2 types, i'm thinking a cable tied Dostoyevsky or two on the right foot would see you right on that as you're stood on a ledge with a colossal undercut. Maybe BB guns could complete the stanage guide with it literally helping him up marble wall? where there's a quill theres a way...
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Its certainly not an open and shut case...
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I'm just ordering the complete Encyclopaedia Britannica and arranging sherpas.
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So, reading between the lines, does this open the door to books strapped to feet as well then?
At a sport climbing crag near to where I used to live the main developer—a former body builder—was short with a static climbing style.
One of the very first routes at the crag was put up by a rival and has a long move from a small side pull up to a big jug after the main difficulties. Most of us just jump, no problem.
Our protagonist never managed the jump, but the foothold you jump from is large and flat, so he could do the move if he carefully balanced a flat rock on the foothold and used that as a foot stool. Consequently he climbed the start of the route with a large rock in his pocket (at about 8a/+ this was close to his max level), lay it on the foothold, climbed up and carefully put his feet on it to try to reach the jug in a slow controlled manner.
The rock always fell off in the middle of the move, and our hero never did the route. Shortly after he quit climbing and became a golfer.
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Ha, thats is an amazing story.
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So, reading between the lines, does this open the door to books strapped to feet as well then? As we used to joke about Brad pit sitter only being possible in a pair of garry glitter platforms for sub 6ft 2 types, i'm thinking a cable tied Dostoyevsky or two on the right foot would see you right on that as you're stood on a ledge with a colossal undercut. Maybe BB guns could complete the stanage guide with it literally helping him up marble wall? where there's a quill theres a way...
Totally fine. Emily Harrington wore Alex Honnold’s shoes over the top her own, like a pair of high altitude double boots, so she could heel-toe the Monster Offwidth.
https://www.climbing.com/news/emily-harrington-free-climbs-el-caps-golden-gate-in-a-day/
(Couldn’t miss the opportunity to shoehorn another barely relevant Yosemite story into this thread...)
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So, reading between the lines, does this open the door to books strapped to feet as well then? As we used to joke about Brad pit sitter only being possible in a pair of garry glitter platforms for sub 6ft 2 types, i'm thinking a cable tied Dostoyevsky or two on the right foot would see you right on that as you're stood on a ledge with a colossal undercut. Maybe BB guns could complete the stanage guide with it literally helping him up marble wall? where there's a quill theres a way...
:worms: This is such a grey area.... Bransby has previous form in this. He once took his chalk bag off mid bouldering comp and balanced it on the crucial foothold, enabling him to make the reach..... cool but not exactly legit. Same goes for Indian creek splitters tape free is one thing taped is another and taped to fit yet another.... where do you stop! I’m saying a book isn’t legit( if it is Ben might well be on for the Stanage tick, he only needs a couple inch)
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As this has gone totally off topic.
What about in situ kneepads? I remember watching Ted try and gaffa tape his kneepad to Bat Route (only to fall off about 5mins later). Surely you have to place the kneepad on lead? Or maybe it’s okay if you climb up, place it, then down climb back to the ground. However, Not sure how I would feel if he also tried to gaffa tape a bible to the kneepad as well. Maybe that’s too far?
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Not sure how I would feel if he also tried to gaffa tape a bible to the kneepad as well. Maybe that’s too far?
Actually, that definitely too far, purely on safety grounds. Imagine that headline “man killed at Malham by falling bible” that would be tragic.
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It would truly be a message from up high. Or from “him upstairs..”
:D
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This thread makes for amazing reading while I am skiving work, absolutely loving it :lol:
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Here we go, from 9A to 8B+/A1.
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This thread makes for amazing reading while I am skiving work, absolutely loving it :lol:
Its got everything - armchair grading and an ethical debate about knees and bibles. Did he do it commando?
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If there's an even lower sit will it be abbreviated to SSSS?
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A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.
What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?
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^^^ very well put :lol: :lol:
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CLMF7rTDu7j/?igshid=1fug2y3z62dw7
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A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.
What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?
I'm out the loop. Who is this referring to?
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A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.
What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?
I'm out the loop. Who is this referring to?
Jens, the editor of 8a.nu
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A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.
What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?
I'm out the loop. Who is this referring to?
Vol de mort
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A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.
What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?
I'm out the loop. Who is this referring to?
Jens, the editor of 8a.nu
I presume you mean things like this, where he gives Lorenzi a 'yellow card' (!?) for the book under the kneepad.
https://www.8a.nu/news/innovative-9a-tricks-by-lorenzi
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CLMF7rTDu7j/?igshid=1fug2y3z62dw7
Nice image!
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I presume you mean things like this, where he gives Lorenzi a 'yellow card' (!?) for the book under the kneepad.
https://www.8a.nu/news/innovative-9a-tricks-by-lorenzi
Apart from the 8a Practice and Ethics from 2002, there few written ethical rules in climbing
The 8a ethics use the traffic light system, providing examples of "yellow flag" behaviours, which anyhow make the ascents legitimate.
In my book, I nevertheless give him a yellow card.
Thus jwi's original description of Jens ::) ::) ::)
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As this has gone totally off topic.
What about in situ kneepads? I remember watching Ted try and gaffa tape his kneepad to Bat Route (only to fall off about 5mins later). Surely you have to place the kneepad on lead? Or maybe it’s okay if you climb up, place it, then down climb back to the ground. However, Not sure how I would feel if he also tried to gaffa tape a bible to the kneepad as well. Maybe that’s too far?
How about in-situ boulder mat on The Rathlin Effect E9 in Fairhead? I shit you not....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PR_NywHDXxrvv27ThcBJ9hDjD9niI4DYEwE-YoK-05WCSSxurZkcQsLbrX0qkXcl444ehVZpekwM8t58K8FJEdH-vFUrBCd7q5sptnug8jVDQVfUJSdcILjxLN5AmjY1KFFz2DhYobjftfGdnnWsSKwBo9nm0J8-7uCkuJAH_QVG--KX49Ij26ybzajiwxMp9DD2EbSxzxaHx_-mZpToELgrGUZ1Hk_JE9v2j3RAihyZOfPL5DLfp6RrtD8-Rm6uWfisjb1BflsXXL5FEZriQ-2uV8A1VG1dNrBvsq04rbwEfTpzN8oCR-rGI2W_UChpJ6pzlXfDRSFnUZjLYNHfl1ym54s6FUjP0G4qTqJCmjZnPO9CPldq_QmmA4KrWwXAlneO15tf4kVQgETHHNGXDCCQ6hJ91O0I1vTcXApHBl93MULDSpu_nWWB51OcuvSmVfRfxXhfU316RdgP5SkJwlXL0PjXWPEn9wMQGAhhrzIxBXoxntZljgkXIemP7frgDWNwpN92QafMGh3982DTQLJIa1Ld0jqYmPAk0S0j2CFCcFtQO_6OZRn3hoVmHJqEr6W1kXXz9LxhUW9aop9A_reqbgnnn7dAnWPTKLvpcmmU6-Y2xYGnRzMbK-BBmV4Z_bQK6ooiT-nccEQsGpVt1f6M5vITMrMA2Qs_7hmTFknNuDwEsj62QNczY8QaQQ=w434-h943-no?authuser=0)
Ricky's vid of Caff on it: https://vimeo.com/386792141
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The first 3 minutes of that video are enough to make me question onsight trad climbing!
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I'm so glad there are videos of trad like this so I don't ever have to do it. Brilliant.
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Vol de mort
End of de bell more like.
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With all the recent drama around ethics in this place I feel we need some (tongue in cheek) rules. Cyclists among us may be aware of the (now cringe worthy) rules by Velominati (www.velominati.com) thus I think that this forum, as holy gatekeepers of all valid ascents on rock, need a similar list.
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First repeat ascent goes to local climber Nico Pelorson
https://fanatic-climbing.com/seconde-ascension-de-soudain-seul-par-nico-pelorson-second-ascent-of-soudain-seul-by-nico-pelorson
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Cool. Looking at the picture no literature was required either...
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Book around.
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Some lovely extra background info on bleau.info about this:
NB: this problem has been opened in February 2021 and is one of the hardest in the world. It's an 'old' project which has been tried long before The Island was opened in 2008. The roof, called "Toit du Nid d'Aigle" by foresters, had been identified as a futuristic project by climbers in 1973 and its sitstart had been tried since the late 1990s. Simon suggested to call this problem "Soudain Seul" in a nod to the book placed under his knee pad.
Toit du Nid d'Aigle translates as Roof of the Eagle's Nest. Kind of wish it had kept that name!
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8C+ according to Nico Pelorson
https://www.grimper.com/news-nico-pelorson-decote-big-island-assis-soudain-seul-8c
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it does not seem to him selective enough to be able to be 9A block. The difficulty is played on the length of the passage more than on the intrinsic difficulty of the movements (there are 15 to 18 depending on the methods), he explained that many strong climbers could claim success for a sufficient investment. He does not see the 9A in this way.
So is he essentially saying none of the individual moves are hard enough for it to be worth 9A overall? And that people will be able to do it by sieging it, so as to get it so dialled it no longer feels hard?
Also, love reading Google translate versions of this kind if article :lol:
To hang a block 9A on its hunting board, on the other hand, it will be necessary to iron.
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French climber in downgrade shocker ;D
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So is he essentially saying none of the individual moves are hard enough for it to be worth 9A overall? And that people will be able to do it by sieging it, so as to get it so dialled it no longer feels hard?
Daniel Woods appears to be extremely close to doing Sleepwalker sit start - I wonder he'll dare go beyond 9A if he does it.
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French climber in downgrade shocker ;D
Google translate - the country who invented the grading system keeps it real.
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French climber in downgrade shocker ;D
Google translate - the country who invented the grading system keeps it real.
Hahaha!
Also, love reading Google translate versions of this kind if article :lol:
To hang a block 9A on its hunting board, on the other hand, it will be necessary to iron.
The better machine translation has become the more I hate it. That's the “uncanny valley” I guess: good enough to seem human like, but still too bad, too biased, and above all too lacking in semantic capabilities. I was more positive about MT when it turned out obvious garbage most of the time, now I hate it with a passion.
“Tableau de chasse” is an idiomatic expression akin to “trophy cabinet”, or why not “ticklist” in this context. Only a statistical model would choose the meaning “ironing” over “pass over” for “repasser” in the second part of the sentence.
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Daniel Woods appears to be extremely close to doing Sleepwalker sit start - I wonder he'll dare go beyond 9A if he does it.
I’ve sort of been expecting a downgrade of the stand, given the flurry of ascents it’s had compared to other 8C+ in the states (think Hypnotised Minds has only had 2 repeats in 11 years) but that hasn’t happened.
Tableau de Chasse is a flipping awesome phrase!
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Cool. Looking at the picture no literature was required either...
Google translate
Did you use a book under your knee pad like Simon?
Yes "Leaving" by Tina Seskis. A book that I had found in a book box and that I did not like very much! Thanks for the trick Simon!
Yet to see a "sans livre" ascent.
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Daniel Woods appears to be extremely close to doing Sleepwalker sit start - I wonder he'll dare go beyond 9A if he does it.
I’ve sort of been expecting a downgrade of the stand, given the flurry of ascents it’s had compared to other 8C+ in the states (think Hypnotised Minds has only had 2 repeats in 11 years) but that hasn’t happened.
I wonder if it would actually take that long for one of the new youths to repeat the sit assuming Daniel does it.
Sleepwalker has had a good number of ascents now, but I'm started to think standards are just that high nowadays. Jimmy, Woods, and Nalle (Nalle albeit with harder beta) all gave it 8C+. Those guys should know better than anyone.
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Sleepwalker has had a good number of ascents now, but I'm started to think standards are just that high nowadays. Jimmy, Woods, and Nalle (Nalle albeit with harder beta) all gave it 8C+. Those guys should know better than anyone.
Yeah this. I did see a comment from Woods on his Insta where he'd intimated it might be slightly easier for the tall, but even then he seemed to suggest it was still 8C+.
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I feel like all these new up and comers should be stronger than those who came before, particularly with all the modern coaching, olympic preparation, training knowledge, youth and facilities. But when I see videos of Woods and Webb on rock, they do still seem to be a cut above, seemingly putting down 8C+ whenever they go on a trip. Or am I just buying into the Mellow propoganda machine?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpSdYI0YpOg
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Yet to see a "sans livre" an ascent.
FTFY.
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What nibs said
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Gotcha.
de retour.
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Just can't get my head round using literature for aid. Looking forward to the Wideboyz rocking up with 80s style shoulder pads for their next offwidth horror.
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Just can't get my head round using literature for aid. Looking forward to the Wideboyz rocking up with 80s style shoulder pads for their next offwidth horror.
Video Tape wrapped around their members.