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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: RichK on April 28, 2010, 01:51:08 pm

Title: Ondrawad
Post by: RichK on April 28, 2010, 01:51:08 pm
Word is he's there now.

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tris on April 28, 2010, 01:58:56 pm
Cool - looking forward to see his crushing tick list  ;D
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 28, 2010, 02:06:30 pm
Excellent.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Krank on April 28, 2010, 02:07:02 pm
no projects left by tea time then
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: nik at work on April 28, 2010, 02:14:54 pm
Excellent. Good luck to the lad, be interesting to see how he gets on with Steve's routes.

Giggleswick is just down the road isn't it? A true wads opinion on a Godskins horror would be tres interesting...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: BenF on April 28, 2010, 02:16:54 pm
I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 28, 2010, 02:20:38 pm
I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...

That's the thing about UKC; no matter how much you try to parody them, the parody always falls short of the reality.
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."

Yep, that'd put him in his place...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 28, 2010, 02:23:11 pm
Is this really news? Headline: "climber goes to crag" shocker.

Hopefully he can crush something worthy and make some genuine news.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 28, 2010, 02:28:24 pm
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."

 :lol:  Yes, I saw that too. I really do hope it was a joke but you never can tell...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on April 28, 2010, 02:39:20 pm
Its defo news. The worlds best climber comes to malham and tries our joint hardest route! Best thing i ve read for ages.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: nik at work on April 28, 2010, 02:46:08 pm
I agree. Either he does something which will be news, or he won't do something which will still be news.

Has someone pissed on your chips today Dave, you're being a right grouch?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 28, 2010, 02:51:21 pm
He has an as yet undiagnosed damp problem but I don't know if it's to do with piss and / or chips.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tris on April 28, 2010, 03:02:35 pm
Dave's Lunch..

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_suyHSWtM46o/SdRdbZ2TU4I/AAAAAAAAAaY/uP01c7Ji21o/s320/piss-and-vinegar-chips.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 28, 2010, 03:07:28 pm
Someone do us a favour and see if Ondra can recommend any damp people cos you fuckers are useless.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2010, 03:08:24 pm
Is this really news?

Yep. We have been after him coming over for ages. Now he has. News enough for me, and a lot of others i suspect.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on April 28, 2010, 03:19:03 pm
I wonder if he will downgrade the soft touch 8c's  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on April 28, 2010, 03:21:55 pm
This is  :great: news,not just for the UK sport climbing scene, but also for the fact that Steve's routes will get some well deserved world wide press.

It'll be well interesting to see how the UK grades compare to abroad, in Ondra's opinions.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 28, 2010, 03:24:24 pm
Giggleswick is just down the road isn't it? A true wads opinion on a Godskins horror would be tres interesting...

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13 (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13)

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on April 28, 2010, 03:31:02 pm
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet. Unless the "we've been after him coming over" is the royal "we" and indicitive of a personal invite  ;)

I agree with Nik, get him Violently Breeding...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2010, 03:32:59 pm
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.

I haven't had the pleasure of meeting him yet Fiend. Just him and Moffatt have eluded me.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on April 28, 2010, 03:34:26 pm
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.

I haven't had the pleasure of meeting him yet Fiend. Just him and Moffatt have eluded me.  ;)

One wonders why... :-\ ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 28, 2010, 03:34:50 pm
Giggleswick is just down the road isn't it? A true wads opinion on a Godskins horror would be tres interesting...

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13 (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Giggleswick,+Settle&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=Fb_2OAMdJffc_ynTpOtfiYd7SDE5TZ2lIJp6Dg%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.072006,-2.158599&sspn=0.016872,0.038581&ie=UTF8&ll=54.081548,-2.228851&spn=0.069988,0.154324&z=13)

 :o  We've waited ages for this so don't send him to the wrong bit of Giggleswick!  ;)

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=B6480&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=FWlQOQMdLrnc_w%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.067448,-2.264729&sspn=0.032034,0.069094&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=12 (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=B6480&daddr=Malham+Cove&hl=en&geocode=FWlQOQMdLrnc_w%3BFXoSOQMdUhLf_yEY5v5_5wo0Rw&mra=ls&sll=54.067448,-2.264729&sspn=0.032034,0.069094&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=12)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 28, 2010, 03:45:36 pm
What's news is that Adam Lincoln hasn't namedropped him yet.

I haven't had the pleasure of meeting him yet Fiend. Just him and Moffatt have eluded me.  ;)

One wonders why... :-\ ;)

Judging by the relative complextions of the two adams I'd say we could rule out them ever having been at the same crag, or indeed tanning salon, at the same time.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jern on April 28, 2010, 03:54:19 pm
Its defo news. The worlds best climber comes to malham and tries our joint hardest route! Best thing i ve read for ages.

he could have just come to do Begozi and the Ledge Lizards, you know...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Probes on April 28, 2010, 04:56:43 pm
I wait for a barrage of abuse but one thing that id be just as interested in is if someone pointed him in the direction of a long steep traverse just over the border, with instructions to try and not fall off first go!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on April 28, 2010, 05:24:17 pm
That is a very good idea Probes   :agree:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 28, 2010, 05:56:55 pm
has a webcam and hide been set up for BBC's Ondrawatch season?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 28, 2010, 06:36:28 pm
Looks like UKC have set up a webcam (http://myfavoritedisease.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/ostrich-07761.jpg)! Ondra seems confused about something at the moment...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: c3po on April 28, 2010, 08:13:39 pm
Can't believe we are all still writing on this thread and theres not even a confirmed send or route being projected yet!  We need facts (routes/grades/onsight/flash/redpoint).  Anyone got any? :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2010, 08:19:26 pm
Can't believe we are all still writing on this thread and theres not even a confirmed send or route being projected yet!  We need facts (routes/grades/onsight/flash/redpoint).  Anyone got any? :shrug:

He has had a couple of redpoints on Overshadow, and failed to onsight Cry Freedom.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 28, 2010, 10:35:45 pm
Cry Freedom
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=143185 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=143185)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Carnage on April 29, 2010, 12:21:34 am


He has had a couple of redpoints on Overshadow, and failed to onsight Cry Freedom.
[/quote]

Yeah, he's not all that so don't expect much. He got smashed when he came over here....

http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/articles/26/adam-ondra-in-oz (http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/articles/26/adam-ondra-in-oz)

 ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: a dense loner on April 29, 2010, 07:41:46 am
Hi adam, jerry says ure a dick


not ondra
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 29, 2010, 08:27:19 am
(http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/images/71.jpg)

Shit, and they say Ron has big hands.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2010, 09:33:04 am
Really looks like the Fat Handed Twat in that pic.

(http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1998/vlcsnap13072866copywu4.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 29, 2010, 09:45:03 am
(http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/images/71.jpg)

Shit, and they say Ron has big hands.

 :o   Christ! that must be a photoshopped pic or something!  if his hands really are that big, and he is quite tall and thin as a rake then its not suprising he is crushing everything he touches.

cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2010, 09:47:11 am
Look at any other pics - hands are normal sized, some lens or PS based trickery.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 29, 2010, 09:57:37 am
0:32

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 29, 2010, 10:23:35 am
0:32

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)

ok before i even watch that clip im gonna bet its the sheep and pigs sketch... :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Kim on April 29, 2010, 10:26:07 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 29, 2010, 10:30:44 am
0:32

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)

ok before i even watch that clip im gonna bet its the sheep and pigs sketch... :)

yep it was.. classic.  I love the peter kay one as well,

gang of midgets get out of a minibus in the phoenix nights carpark. bouncer says to the other one. 

"How far away are they?"   :)

Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on April 29, 2010, 10:36:27 am
0:32

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25N-4zrk390#)

ok before i even watch that clip im gonna bet its the sheep and pigs sketch... :)

yep it was.. classic.  I love the peter kay one as well,


 :shrug: Don't know what video you watched, but it looked like cows to me  :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on April 29, 2010, 10:47:19 am
aye cows i meant.  :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 10:56:32 am
aye cows i meant.  :)

It's all just livestock to you isn't it?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy Harris on April 29, 2010, 11:30:47 am
I am staggered by the lack of fact around this visit. As Doyle said, finally a truly world class climber comes to the UK. There's rafts of old scool grades and McClure 9a's that people suspect are harder and we've had about as much fact as one of the televised political debates. Was he redpointing Overshadow on his 1st day or had he been working it for days previous, how close was he to a cryfreedom onsight (I thought it was 8a+ or so to the last move or 2 so did he only onsight 8a+ worth of climbing. Is he off to Kilnsey, PenTrywn or the Tor?

Come on boys (& girls), pull your fingers out and get us somw fact.

I've been waiting for about 15 years since messers Tribout, Chevieux & Lombard came over and ticked some 8b+/8c's, before that Jibe & Raboutou were the last wads to tick big Nos (didn't Jibe do Cry Freedom in 2 days & downgrade it to 8b+, Ondra's already had a day on it so can't surpass Jibe.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 29, 2010, 11:37:52 am
Well said Andy. GIVE US FACTS!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on April 29, 2010, 11:38:12 am
I said this wasn't news yet. We have some importance, but no fact. Do the maths.

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/77/Fact_x_importance_equals_ne.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: benpritch on April 29, 2010, 11:51:02 am
i saw him try and red point overshadow. came to a halt at the first boulder problem. he worked it for a bit - couldn't do it. pulled past it. climbed a wee bit higher then came down.

his onsight attempt on cry freedom came to a halt halfway up the groovy thing above the lower wall (not familiar wit hthe route so no more details, sorry.)

hten he sat around for a bit and then he went home.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 29, 2010, 12:03:37 pm
Is he off to Kilnsey, PenTrywn or the Tor?

Nevermind those. Get the world's best on the world's hardest move.

GIGGLESWICK

VIOLENT NEW BREED


GIGGLESWICK


VOLENT NEW BREED
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2010, 12:07:41 pm

then he sat around for a bit and then he went home.

You mean he left for the day, or buggered off back to Czech land?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: suggy on April 29, 2010, 12:27:10 pm
I was up at malham yesterday.. to warm up he onsighted zoolook (made it look piss - but he should). Then he onsighted overnight sensation before working the extension. I tried to get him to go to Baildon Bank - he sounded suitably inspired and said he'd try to fit it in!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy Harris on April 29, 2010, 12:45:17 pm
Thank the lord for Ben P, purveyor of facts. Certainly doesn't sound like a crusathon (yet), but we await with baited breath.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 29, 2010, 01:42:26 pm
But how TENACIOUS is he? Is Sharples there to assess?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: fatboySlimfast on April 29, 2010, 01:46:01 pm
But how TENACIOUS is he? Is Sharples there to assess?
as in tenacious being an ascent practised over a minor geological age?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on April 29, 2010, 01:53:25 pm
So all we know at the minute is on his first (?) day he flashed an 8a (not surprised), failed to flash and 8b+ (bit of a suprise) and worked the hardest route at the crag (not suprised). Oh, and he's apparently made of rubber. Like Stretch Armstrong.  Good to know he's on form then  ::)

The big question is how many pints did he sink in the Listers last night?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2010, 02:00:13 pm
Is he old enough yet? Actually given that part of the world it would be unlikely to be an issue.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: psychomansam on April 29, 2010, 03:23:44 pm
Well he ain't old enough over here, but to look at the lad, he's either the next step of evolution or he's never touched a pint in his life.

With a bit of luck he'll turn 18, get fat and we can all stop worrying about how shit we are

 :beer2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chappers on April 29, 2010, 03:43:08 pm
im sure the last post is a reeeeeeeeeeeeeepost. ive got bored of hearing about "if only he drank booze" etc...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: clm on April 29, 2010, 04:55:24 pm
if you're going to do massive writing, don't bugger up the spelling.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chummer on April 29, 2010, 05:12:30 pm
If only he knew what a blow job was..
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on April 29, 2010, 05:12:57 pm
(http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2008/07/22/watervole.jpg)
Violent New Vole, deep water voloing.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 05:54:42 pm
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?
If so I'm going to pitch Hello Magazine vertical edition to the insect overlords...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stubbs on April 29, 2010, 06:17:44 pm
... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?


I only follow you on twitter because someone told me you climbed 8B
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 06:25:24 pm
I only follow you on twitter because someone told me you climbed 8B

and to bait me.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Teaboy on April 29, 2010, 07:24:39 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow. I didn't witness any of this but I thought I'd post it in case anyone else is as obsessed with celebrity climbing culture as me. I was also told about an impressive redpoint of Space Invaders by another up and coming young star but details on this are a bit hazy at the moment.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 07:27:34 pm
Onsighting predator is very impressive - it's massively technical and tenuous on the feet, it's a soft redpoint but a very impressive onsight.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 07:29:52 pm
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?

I predict it'll be a circus this weekend at Malham, I won't be going to find out.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stubbs on April 29, 2010, 07:32:23 pm
Do you not like clowns, or is it the cruelty to animals that puts you off?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 07:38:33 pm
it's circus folk - they have little tiny hands.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 29, 2010, 07:39:31 pm
people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?

I predict it'll be a circus this weekend at Malham, I won't be going to find out.

Maybe you could help Ondra escape the crowds. Offer him a lift to Giggleswick...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 07:45:28 pm
Quote
Maybe you could help Ondra escape the crowds. Offer him a lift to Giggleswick...

What? and end up being chased in my knackered Berlingo by the paparazzi?
I don't want to end up like Princess Di.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on April 29, 2010, 07:46:33 pm
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f186/TGTE/LifeofBrian.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 07:47:45 pm
Quote
Maybe you could help Ondra escape the crowds. Offer him a lift to Giggleswick...

What? and end up being chased in my knackered Berlingo by the paparazzi?
I don't want to end up like Princess Di.

ah yeah but Nick Clegg tampered with her brakes so you'll be fine.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: griffer on April 29, 2010, 08:16:29 pm
2 more attempts on rainshadow
2 8b onsights
3 8a+  on sight
I only saw the 8a+ and the 8b on sights, so cant confirm the others and he 8a+ onsight I think he will discount as when shoued at to grab the chain he jmped off.
I think he onsighted another 8a today but im not sure, did he do zoolook yesterday? he though that was hard and probably 8a+, thats a quote from someone else.
Very very very very veryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryveryvery awesome to watch
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 29, 2010, 08:23:47 pm
I predict it'll be a circus this weekend at Malham, I won't be going to find out.

people are giving 5 stars to some rather average snaps of Ondra... Is celebrity culture really this big in climbing?
If so I'm going to pitch Hello Magazine vertical edition to the insect overlords...

Some of you lot are such grumpy bastards! Any particular reason to be so cynical?  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 08:35:36 pm
'5' Star Photo (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=143185)
5 Star Photo (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=81663)

I'd say its justified. I don't think Serpico is being cynical at all, more realistic. With it being a bank holiday weekend Malham Catwalk ain't going to be a quiet place to be.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on April 29, 2010, 08:42:37 pm
Nice photo of him passing the first bolt, that.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 29, 2010, 08:59:40 pm
I'm well aware of the photos you're talking about and its only a personal view but I think you're wrong.

Al Lee's pictures are stunning but they're painstakingly set up beforehand with prior knowledge of where steve was going to be and what he was going to be climbing so they really should be good, whereas my understanding of these are that they were opportunistic captures of something that a lot of peoplke would clearly be interested in.

No sarcasm intended, but I'm sure you are familiar with the concept that an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people. This makes it worth more than say, a similar picture of me flailing around on some 7a at Malham.

Serpico is perfectly entitled to his views and no-ones forcing him to go to Malham this weekend. I just thought his comments were a little unnecessary. Doesn't really matter of course.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Teaboy on April 29, 2010, 09:19:31 pm
 No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

For what it's worth I think these photos could be worth a 5 simply because they're pretty good on their own merit with added marks for the subject. It's easy to get another perfect shot of hand just latching the top of Deliverence whilst chalk dust hangs in the air but I think uniqeness should be rewarded and so far these are the only photos I've seen of the worlds best climber climbing at my favorite crag   
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chillax on April 29, 2010, 09:21:46 pm
an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people.

A crap photo can indeed have deep personal and cultural significance. Its still a crap photo though.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chris_j_s on April 29, 2010, 09:27:15 pm
A crap photo can indeed have deep personal and cultural significance. Its still a crap photo though.

Not what I said but well done!  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 29, 2010, 09:35:42 pm
and we're b
No sarcasm intended, but I'm sure you are familiar with the concept that an image can have more value than the sum of its parts simply for capturing a particular moment of interest to a lot of people. This makes it worth more than say, a similar picture of me flailing around on some 7a at Malham.

Back to the celebrity culture thing, all you've got to 'add value' is Ondra climbing something that on the grand scheme of things isn't that impressive... My mate happened to record Malc doing the first ascent of Monk life by shear luck, he missed the 1st move and its far from top-drawer footage but he captured a moment, this isn't that.

I've got half a pasty that John Dunne may or may not have munched on, shall we start the bidding at £50,000?

(alternatively I can supply a lock of Jaspersharpes hair for a similar price - he doesn't yet know it)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Teaboy on April 29, 2010, 09:38:56 pm
As if Dunny would leave half a pasty uneaten
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on April 29, 2010, 09:42:46 pm
Beat me to it!!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 29, 2010, 10:09:04 pm
No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

Malham and Kilnsey are only training for the real thing: Longridge.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on April 29, 2010, 10:12:08 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Details.......

3 x RP's on Overshadow ...... his thoughts, defo 9a+. Thinks he's using a differnt sequence on crux to Steve.

Predator, 8b O/S - However, he thought the end of the route was the 1st belay(its 20ft higher). 
                            He looked very comfortable & I doubt he'd have fallen off the last bit.                                                                               
                            Gutted to hear he had a further 20ft. Putting clips in.
Oak, 8b O/S         - putting clips in.

Magnetic,8b O/S   - putting clips in

Groove>Free and Easy>Breach of the Peace 8b O/S - putting clips in.

Energy Vampire 8a+ O/S - putting clips in. Looked puzzled at last move for a while.......and fell off. Isn't it like RD's in           
that you grab a draw on the ring peg to finish???

Rest day tomoz, if Overshadow stays dry he'll do it sat I reckon.

He's here till Tuesday.

Notably, he did Magnetic, had 5 mins rest, then the Oak :o

Got some footage which I'll bob on here when I work out how :-\ :whistle:
   
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 29, 2010, 10:47:42 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Isn't it like RD's in that you grab a draw on the ring peg to finish???

No, you need to clip it, like you do on Connect 4. (Same finish)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on April 29, 2010, 11:21:33 pm


Rest day tomoz, if Overshadow stays dry he'll do it sat I reckon.

He's here till Tuesday.


Perfect, someone pass me Ondra's diary...

Fri - Rest
Sat - Do Overshadow
Sun - Rest
Mon - Violent New Breed
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: duncan on April 30, 2010, 09:11:34 am
Pictures of Ondra on Overshadow and Cry Freedom on Keith Sharples' blog (http://blog.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk/blog/_archives/2010/4/30/4517300.html)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 30, 2010, 09:14:56 am
I agree with PaulB (although he's not getting anywhere near me with a pair of scissors).

Good to hear confirmation of Steve's grades, not as if they were in doubt like but still.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2010, 09:50:16 am
it's circus folk - they have little tiny hands.

Nothing to fear here then

(http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/images/71.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Probes on April 30, 2010, 10:13:56 am
No one's forcing Serpico  to Malham this weekend but I suspect Kilnsey will be wet and not sure he knows other crags exist  :whistle:

Malham and Kilnsey are only training for the real thing: Longridge.

With the destruction thats going on at Malham, Im not sure I fancy seeing him do the same to Longy anymore.  :boohoo:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2010, 10:16:32 am
What a beast! Seems like he s taken to malham like a duck to water. I hope he comes to the ormes sometime.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 30, 2010, 10:37:04 am
You would have thought he'd want to get on LA and Big Bang and I've heard there's a decent 8c+ish project there up for grabs...............
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 10:39:58 am
I've heard there's a decent 8c+ish project there up for grabs...............

  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2010, 10:59:27 am
He d have a cracking time down there. He can have that proj. All i d ask for is a signed picture for my wall.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2010, 11:31:33 am
Any signed pic? I have a Su Pollard one you can have.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tris on April 30, 2010, 11:34:47 am
Details.......
Cheers Rich - major crushage as expected  ;D
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: youngy on April 30, 2010, 11:35:11 am
All i d ask for is a signed picture for my wall.
Wouldn't you put it on the ceiling so when you wake up you see ur hero :great:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: butterworthtom on April 30, 2010, 02:03:44 pm
I know everyone is having some kind of visiting-wad-so-let's-shout-all-the-hard-routes-he-should-do-gasm.
But what about the Brandenburg (sp?) gate project at the tor?
I know nothing about the route or if it would suit Adam, but surely visiting uber wad's should be directed at this infamous project.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dobbin on April 30, 2010, 03:05:00 pm
But what about the Brandenburg (sp?) gate project at the tor?

Now I love the tor, but this is really log. One of the reasons it hasnt been done is the sharp snappy holds, and the lack of asthetic loveliness.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy Harris on April 30, 2010, 03:17:06 pm
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:

What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.

I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 03:22:08 pm
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:

What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.

I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:

maybe next time I bang the 'soft' drum people won't burn me at the stake. There is a definite difference between the Old School venues and the Nu Skool venues. Next I'm going to get Doyle and Sausage on here claiming Margalef is hard because they didn't prepare for a sport climbing trip and got spanked...  :yawn:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 03:54:15 pm
Quote
Next I'm going to get Doyle and Sausage on here claiming Margalef is hard because they didn't prepare for a sport climbing trip and got spanked...  :yawn:

The only reason we got spanked was the sharpness of the pockets. We would all have done are respective projects had it not been for the worst state of my skin i have ever experienced. (Well, that's a lie. The main objective of the trip was thrown out the window when a fatty broke a crucial jug off the start)

Oh and as far as Margalef being soft is concerned, that's utter tosh. I would say Labratory sector is as in line with grades as most places. Maybe not quite as old skool as Buoux but they are NOT soft.

Sorry Paul, you hit a nerve with that comment. By the way, what was your excuse for not doing anything when you were there?  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 03:57:30 pm
not saying what I did and doing nothing are a little different wouldn't you say?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 04:00:52 pm
not saying what I did and doing nothing are a little different wouldn't you say?

Yes Paul.  ::) You keep beating that drum. We will have to agree to disagree then.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 04:04:10 pm
more to the point did you try/crush/enjoy any of the rec's away from Laboratori?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: andy popp on April 30, 2010, 04:04:29 pm
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:

What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.

I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:

I remember seeing a quote from Garth Miller - no slouch - that Zoolook was a joke at 8a.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on April 30, 2010, 04:06:34 pm
Oh and as far as Margalef being soft is concerned, that's utter tosh. I would say Labratory sector is as in line with grades as most places. Maybe not quite as old skool as Buoux but they are NOT soft.

Like all venues that were very soft, a lot of the easiest routes have now been adjusted in line with some sort of standard. It's funny; I remember you banging on about how soft Tarn was, but I thought the grades there were consistently a grade tougher than margalef. And unlike Paul, I ticked everything there. Which just goes to show how futile arguing about grades is.

On the other hand; British grades are nails. I was at the crag that day with Garth; he swore blind Zoolook would be 8b in Spain. So I'm gobsmacked by Ondra. Although these probably aren't close to the most impressive days climbing he's had, somehow when it's stuff you know it's so much more astounding. Since he's got practically no 8b's left, someone point him at Unjustified; it's the most onsightable of the 'hard' routes.

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 04:07:51 pm
more to the point did you try/crush/enjoy any of the rec's away from Laboratori?

Yes. With a little more success. Even more success over in Suriana. Though the trip did get me fit and strong, which was half the objective anyway.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 04:10:12 pm
Oh and as far as Margalef being soft is concerned, that's utter tosh. I would say Labratory sector is as in line with grades as most places. Maybe not quite as old skool as Buoux but they are NOT soft.
It's funny; I remember you banging on about how soft Tarn was

I have only climbed two routes in Tarn, so i suspect that wasn't me.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: shark on April 30, 2010, 04:10:58 pm
Yorkshire in Ondra upgrade shocker :whistle:
What does big Ron think to an upgrade of Zoolock 25 years+ after the 1st ascent. Has it got harder since the 1st ascent / thought it was considered the benchmark Yorkshire 8a? Could this be a classic example of grade inflation over the years.
I can see him twiddling his tash (no that's not a euphemism) and tutting in disgust :thumbsdown:

I don't think French grade was applied at the time but do remember it appearing in the mags at E7 6d !

I think Zoolook suited the style of the times as a number of mainly trad climbers were able to do it, as their only 8a. 

As climbers are generally stronger now a technical stamina routes like Zoolook feels harder by comparison with the likes of Raindogs.

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 04:15:13 pm
and unlike Paul, I ticked everything there. Which just goes to show how futile arguing about grades is.

I've managed to get rid of the training mindset, the grade thing is a little harder to expel but you're right.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on April 30, 2010, 04:15:41 pm
I have only climbed two routes in Tarn, so i suspect that wasn't me.

It's a different Adam Lincoln who wrote this on 8a.nu then?

Quote
Soft First r/p. Very very soft. Prob 7c+ (8a in day)

Sorry to be a :wank:, end of the week and I'm feeling a bit prickly! No harm done I hope...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 30, 2010, 04:17:51 pm
I have only climbed two routes in Tarn, so i suspect that wasn't me.

It's a different Adam Lincoln who wrote this on 8a.nu then?

Quote
Soft First r/p. Very very soft. Prob 7c+ (8a in day)

Sorry to be a :wank:, end of the week and I'm feeling a bit prickly! No harm done I hope...

Too be fair, it is NEVER 8a, even in Thailand  ;)
Going off one route your comment was a tad sweeping.
Don't worry Stu, no offence taken. When you going to haul yourself to Kilnsey?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on April 30, 2010, 04:19:14 pm
tomorrow...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: butterworthtom on April 30, 2010, 04:31:04 pm

Quote
Now I love the tor, but this is really log. One of the reasons it hasnt been done is the sharp snappy holds, and the lack of aesthetic loveliness.

Explains why John Gaskins was trying it then  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: T_B on April 30, 2010, 05:02:44 pm

I think Zoolook suited the style of the times as a number of mainly trad climbers were able to do it, as their only 8a. 

As climbers are generally stronger now a technical stamina routes like Zoolook feels harder by comparison with the likes of Raindogs.

Agreed. At the risk of sounding like JB, I found Zoolook pretty easy. Did it 1st RP 4 weeks after standing on the summit of Denali. Failed on Subculture the following day (i.e. considered soft, but requires power).
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: abarro81 on April 30, 2010, 05:14:09 pm
 :lol: FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT
 :off: I think the thing with Tarn is that it's got a rep partly for 2 routes - planete groove and arnaque. With 'groove' a frenchy told me this was originally done by a long move through the buldge rather than the obvious method moving right then back left here; hence the original 8a grade and why everyone now thinks 7c/+. Arnaque just needs a downgrade to 7c+. There's a few others that have now been downgraded in everything but the guide (i.e. if you look on 8a.nu or speak to someone you'll see they're not considered the guidebook grade anymore), e.g. the keep on movin' extension which is 8b in the guide but is supposed to be soft 8a+. On the whole I thought the grades were comparable to Ceuse, where I'd been just before tarn...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: T_B on April 30, 2010, 05:18:59 pm
There's that other '8a' left of Rasta vaut rien. Does seem like a popular first 8a on-sight :whistle:

(Arnaque.com is comparable to Why Me at Two Tier I thought)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: shark on April 30, 2010, 05:22:56 pm
I found Zoolook pretty easy. Did it 1st RP 4 weeks after standing on the summit of Denial.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2010, 05:24:45 pm
Paul i can handle doing nothing on a two week trip. If it had been 6 months i may have been a little more sacked. Although very different oyster on the orme is the biggest sandbag in britain never mind zoolook! f7c+,its more like font 7c halfway up the crag.ridic!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 05:28:59 pm
Paul i can handle doing nothing on a two week trip. If it had been 6 months i may have been a little more sacked. Although very different oyster on the orme is the biggest sandbag in britain never mind zoolook! f7c+,its more like font 7c halfway up the crag.ridic!

f*cking hell, I love it, say a place is soft get told you did nothing in 6 months. Enjoyed your holiday then  ;D
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on April 30, 2010, 05:43:10 pm

I think Zoolook suited the style of the times as a number of mainly trad climbers were able to do it, as their only 8a. 

As climbers are generally stronger now a technical stamina routes like Zoolook feels harder by comparison with the likes of Raindogs.

Agreed. At the risk of sounding like JB, I found Zoolook pretty easy. Did it 1st RP 4 weeks after standing on the summit of Denali. Failed on Subculture the following day (i.e. considered soft, but requires power).

I think Zoolook is a steady 8a redpoint, but as an onsight I'm not surprised he thought it 8a+.
Cue argument about whether routes should be graded for the OS or the RP...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on April 30, 2010, 07:26:09 pm
So: so far he's onsighted: Zoolook, Overnite, Magnetic, The Oak and The Groove / Free n Easy / Breach link.  And would probably have onsighted Predator and Energy Vampire if the finishes were better defined either by chains or guide descriptions.

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if ANY of those routes (other than The Groove and Free n Slimy obviously) had previously had onsights?

As for the Zoolook thing, it is undoubtedly the case that that style of climbing was more in vogue in the 80s so folks found that kind of thing easier.  However its also definitely the case that even by the end of the 90s it was MUCH harder than when first done.  Simply due to polish on the footholds - all those glassy smears used to be rough and have lots of friction...

Anyway, yesterdays achievements get my vote for the most gobsmacking days climbing (in any style) in the UK ever...  Hope everything stays dry for the next week and he enjoys himself despite the inevitable circus wherever he goes.


Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on April 30, 2010, 09:40:01 pm
So: so far he's onsighted: Zoolook, Overnite, Magnetic, The Oak and The Groove / Free n Easy / Breach link.  And would probably have onsighted Predator and Energy Vampire if the finishes were better defined either by chains or guide descriptions.

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know if ANY of those routes (other than The Groove and Free n Slimy obviously) had previously had onsights?


I believe Steve onsighted the Oak, but that may just be

(http://news.bbc.co.uk/media/images/38287000/jpg/_38287609_hearsay8.jpg)

Quote
I think Zoolook is a steady 8a redpoint, but as an onsight I'm not surprised he thought it 8a+.

completely agree.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: north_country_boy on May 01, 2010, 01:22:27 am
Retroflash I believe. He'd been on it a few years previous....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on May 01, 2010, 07:39:06 am
Anybody know how to get a Tat removed?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tommy on May 01, 2010, 09:27:05 am
Ok you can all breathe a sigh of relief, Ondra has done the deed and ticked it.

http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/ondra-sent-overshadow-9a- (http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/ondra-sent-overshadow-9a-)

Or..... is this the new best climbing website in the world where the future is predicted??!!  ;D Classic.

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on May 01, 2010, 09:47:44 am
Oh dear. I saw 8a.nu published an extract from Keith's blog yesterday. It reads:

Quote
He wasted no time adding to his score-card (check it out here www.8a.nu (http://www.8a.nu)) with on-sights of Zoolook (F8a) and Overnite Sensation (F8a+). Next up was Overshadow (F9a+), Steve McClure’s 2007 mega route.

8a.nu presented it poorly, and I imagine up-climbing were one of many who didn't bother to read the rest of the blog. Oh dear.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: The Sausage on May 01, 2010, 02:41:59 pm
So, when's he getting on the vice? I've been waiting up there all week...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2010, 03:00:21 pm
Awesome thread re Ondra and re grades. Paul is right of course, the grades 8b/8b+/8c/8c+ were established or consolidated in Provence and the UK. There is absolutely no reason for other areas to use a "Nu Skool" (or "soft") system. It's just caused confusion, argument and lots of people to think they climb harder than they actually do. When people say the grades in the UK and at Buoux are nails they're mistaking nails for correct. These routes were the benchmark, everything else is wrong.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on May 01, 2010, 06:58:13 pm
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...

He was asked directly about Overshadow and said he hadn't done it and didn't think he'd get it in this trip, am I missing something here? Ru?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Falling Down on May 01, 2010, 07:14:07 pm
No you're not. Like 8a.spew, The (fuck)up climbing news article was only linked to Keith's blog entry from Thursday - Tommy was being funny  :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on May 01, 2010, 09:20:22 pm
So he onsighted OVershadow? AWESOME FUCKING WELLES. OMG STFU !!!!!!!!!111111111111111!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 02, 2010, 10:31:33 am
I think at this point a ukc style comment like "I hope he doesn't just spend his time clipping bolts, but goes to Stanage/tries Echo Wall/Birkett's routes" is in order...

That's the thing about UKC; no matter how much you try to parody them, the parody always falls short of the reality.
From UKC I give you: "I reckon it would be more interesting to throw him at the Vice."

Yep, that'd put him in his place...

Yeah, of course I was deadly serious when I wrote that. 
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 02, 2010, 11:22:23 am
Yeah, of course I was deadly serious when I wrote that.

One of the problems with UKC is that a) people post uninformed drivel on there all the time, b) people parody the uninformed drivel in exactly the same, terminally unfunny way, all the time. Telling the two apart is hard.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 02, 2010, 11:52:30 am
Apologies for being terminally unfunny.  How might one rectify the situation so I can up my game to your standards?  Or am I a lost cause, uncool and irrelevant, like a fish with tits.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Falling Down on May 02, 2010, 11:58:50 am
Content, delivery and timing....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Danger on May 02, 2010, 11:59:49 am
uncool and irrelevant, like a fish with tits.

I don't know, I reckon a fish with tits would be pretty cool.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on May 02, 2010, 01:14:44 pm
mermaids are hot.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 02, 2010, 01:30:46 pm
(http://jasondylan.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/darryl-hannah-as-mermaid1.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 02, 2010, 01:47:45 pm
mermaids are hot.

Yeah, till you try boffing one.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 02, 2010, 01:56:59 pm
Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Falling Down on May 02, 2010, 02:05:36 pm
Your welcome  :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on May 02, 2010, 02:19:05 pm
mermaids are so hot right now.

Especially deep fried with chips.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: DaveC on May 02, 2010, 02:54:00 pm
From an ageing Czech wonderkind (at what age do you stop being one of those?) ticking hard routes at Malham to the problems of shagging a fish with tits in about a dozen posts, this thread is a masterpiece people! :great:  ::)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: tomtom on May 02, 2010, 05:00:41 pm
Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.

Doesnt sound like any tips are required  :-*
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tris on May 02, 2010, 06:15:42 pm
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights?  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 02, 2010, 06:57:42 pm
I vote for the fish with tits too.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 02, 2010, 07:07:16 pm
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights?  ;)

He went on North Star yesterday, got quite close, not sure if he went back on it today.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 02, 2010, 07:07:46 pm
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights?  ;)

He did Northern Star today and reckoned it was 9a and probably helped to be tall on it, and as I left he was falling off Northern Lights on redpoint.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: griffer on May 02, 2010, 07:22:42 pm
his attempts on Northern lighs were very impressive!

having sent northern star first redpoint, he then decided on "northern Ligts", when was the last time a climber had been on this and cleaned the route? 2-3 years?

spent an hour and a half working it, but very unsure on the line, came up with a sequence.

had a redpoint, but it didnt go well no sure on the line or sequence and no one at the crag could help.

then had 2 redpoint attempts, getting to the crux and trying, hard!

all this in 7 degres and a strong wind, for some of us mortals it was too cold to climb hard.....................................................
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 02, 2010, 07:48:47 pm
Ironically Ondra turned up at Kilnsey today...
What did he tick? Progress/Northern Lights?  ;)

He did Northern Star today and reckoned it was 9a and probably helped to be tall on it, and as I left he was falling off Northern Lights on redpoint.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Serpico? don't remember seeing this shadowy mythical internet poster at Kilnsey today...


OndraWad definately didn't do Overshadow on saturday just to clarify. but crushed northern star impressively, hadnt done northernlights when i left.

Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 02, 2010, 07:56:32 pm
Quote
Serpico? don't remember seeing this shadowy mythical internet poster at Kilnsey today...

Nobody ever sees me, but I'm always there.
And I know what you did last summer...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 02, 2010, 07:58:36 pm
p.s. Serpico, just started the essential tralalallalalalla thread :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 02, 2010, 10:28:11 pm
Who the fuck's advising this guy? The g-spot is bad enough, but... jesus (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=406250). Red dot traverse anyone?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 02, 2010, 10:33:23 pm
Neil Conway was a visionary.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 02, 2010, 11:28:30 pm
If that was the Hutton Roof thread I think it was a 'joke'.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jonny2vests on May 03, 2010, 12:31:59 am
Content, delivery and timing....

Apologies.  I shall analyse your blog for tips on how to stick my head up my arse.

Doesnt sound like any tips are required  :-*

And I thought UKC was bitchy. ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ian dunn on May 03, 2010, 07:23:02 am
Neil Conway was a visionary.

Neil Conway who! I think you mean Nick Conway no visionary just a beast with eyes for a good line.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 07:31:28 am
Ooops.  Yes, hence Nick's Traverse   :-[

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on May 03, 2010, 09:13:50 am
.
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Mmm :-\ VNB world class or a pile of  :wank:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ackbar on May 03, 2010, 11:08:37 am
I noticed that there hasn't been any other news in the last 5 days other than Ondra.  Does this mean that everyone is sat under Malham/Kilnsey crag watching?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Krank on May 03, 2010, 11:25:41 am
VNB might not be world class but is definitely dirty hard which is why so many people would like someone like Ondra get on it. Didn't McClure say something along the lines of unthinkable difficult.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: r-man on May 03, 2010, 11:51:04 am
But the BIG news is R-Man got his wish, sort of, on his rest day Ondra went to look at Violent New Breed.
We can only wonder as to why it didn't then make it on to his wish list...

Details, where are the details?! Did you talk to Ondra about it? What did he have to say?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: roddersm on May 03, 2010, 11:54:00 am
Any news?? Really want to go climbing today but don't want to leave my computer in case I miss some thing  :P
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 03, 2010, 11:54:25 am
Thought I'd have a look on Cocktalk to see if there was any more information. It was a mistake.....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: mark s on May 03, 2010, 03:49:31 pm
Haha,more people wanting him to try trad.its like trying to get valentino rossi into F1.why when you the best! Some of the comments on there are cringe worthy
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Aussiegav on May 03, 2010, 03:52:46 pm
on a side note, what has he done bouldering???
anything of note?

excuse my ignorance, but lord of the rings & harry potter books have never been of interest to me
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 03, 2010, 03:59:17 pm
Pissed up a couple of 8Bs on his rest days I think.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 04:00:50 pm
Not a lot really, he's more of a routes man.  He's only done:

7 8b+ (one of which is Dreamtime again, after hold breakage- different sequence)            
19  8b (3 flashed)         
29 8a+ (5 flashed)                  
51 8 (15 flashed)

Crap really  :o
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on May 03, 2010, 04:15:13 pm
"Who the fuck's advising this guy?"

He is.  He's come to the UK to climb at the best sport climbing cliffs in the UK - i.e Malham and Kilnsey.  Anyone wanting him to go anywhere else should get over it.  So far he’s had 2 days at each with a rest day in between.  Presumably he’s headed back to one or the other today to try and finish off either Overshadow or Northern Lights. 

Its great that he’s managed to avoid the usual trap sprung on visiting sport climbers who, arriving in Sheffield, are informed that sport climbing is rubbish, and that what they really want to do is to go out on the grit so they can be burnt off by the locals on scary slabs!
 
"all this in 7 degrees and a strong wind, for some of us mortals it was too cold to climb hard....................................................."

Whilst it may be too cold if you are wanting to have a pleasant, relaxed weekends sport climbing, if you are wanting to climb the hard routes on North Buttress at Kilnsey, conditions are about as perfect as they ever get.  Those routes are normally only ever dry in summer when it is also usually hot and sweaty.  To get them dry at the beginning of May, on a week with cold northerly winds blowing down the crag is incredibly lucky. 

I think he’s also been smart to realise this and shift his attention from Malham to Kilnsey once he realised it was dry.  Good conditions at Malham (and Raven’s Tor etc) are much easier to come by.


As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.  Unfortunately it is also a nasty 3 or 4 move Font 8C boulder problem up an 8 foot square wall stuck on top of a 25 foot HVS.  Nothing wrong with that if that’s your bag, but it ain’t what Ondra’s come here for.  (As others have said, boulderers like Nalle are the kind of people who are more likely to be interested in this.)

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 04:47:35 pm
As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most a small proportion of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 03, 2010, 05:22:25 pm
As for VNB – To be fair, unlike most a small proportion all but 2 or 3 of Gaskins’ offerings, this is actually on decent rock and is actually in a nice location.
:spank:

I think VNB looks like very good rock in the classic photo of the Big G on it. But I can see how it is so specialist it's not really one for Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 05:25:14 pm
I'm always amused that people still think that all the Gaskins stuff is on shit rock.  It's just not true.  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on May 03, 2010, 05:29:19 pm
That's true, he has done a few things on rock types other than limestone :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 03, 2010, 06:04:15 pm
No but they are generally fucking ugly lowball grovels. Walk Away SS, Isla De Enchanta and VNB look pretty nice. Anything else looks flange, just very hard flange. Okay apart from Pillbox thingy but that's only because it's miles from his home turf and he was probably struggling to find some real dank ugly limestone holes. He must have not looked up left just after driving along the toll road  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: 9b on May 03, 2010, 06:44:17 pm
If conditions and time, I'm pretty sure he likes to "eat" every kind of rock, short too ;-)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GCW on May 03, 2010, 07:36:35 pm
Having seen the man himself today, I won't have this nonsense.   :furious:

Fiend, apologise immediately or I'll send round At Work to bite your ankles.   :spank:




But what else did Ondra get done?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: IanP on May 03, 2010, 08:24:51 pm
Wasn't there myself but a text at the crag said he redpointed Northern Lights today.  If true 2 of the 4 hardest routes in Yorkshire ticked in 3 days  :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 03, 2010, 09:13:49 pm
Quote
Who the fuck's advising this guy?

Steady on Nemo. That was about the report on UKC of him hitting Hutton Roof.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 03, 2010, 09:19:36 pm
Quote
Who the fuck's advising this guy?

Steady on Nemo. That was about the report on UKC of him hitting Hutton Roof.

Could've been worse, if he hadn't had to go back to Kilnsey today to finish Northern Lights his plan was to go to the Tor to try Hubble and Mutation.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Houdini on May 03, 2010, 10:38:54 pm
The worlds best climber

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Control freak on May 03, 2010, 11:42:36 pm
Its great that he’s managed to avoid the usual trap sprung on visiting sport climbers who, arriving in Sheffield, are informed that sport climbing is rubbish, and that what they really want to do is to go out on the grit so they can be burnt off by the locals on scary slabs!

Hmmm, last time I checked, everytime Johnny foreigner gets out on the grit they put us all to shame crushing yesterdays testpieces. Lets face it, if you can climb 9a+ then a scary 7b arete or an 8a+ with some wires isnt gonna cause too many problems....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 04, 2010, 08:32:51 am
Its hardly everytime... you just don't get to hear about all the EPIC FAILS.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 04, 2010, 09:15:57 am
Let's not go down that route anyway.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 04, 2010, 09:50:03 am
Every year foreigners come and eat up the grit. It has been great to hear about some of the proper hard climbing in britain getting some attention. I m amazed that he got those north buttress routes so quickly.mainly because they must have been filthy.northern lights in particular has seen hardly any attention since steve did it.i would have thought it would of taken two days to clean it never mind climb it.also it is a slightly meandering line and with no chalk on it he was starting from scratch. Its pretty significant getting a bit of dirt on your shoe on a 9a.what an absolute fucking beast. Hopefully he ll come back for the tor/LPT.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 04, 2010, 10:04:55 am
Let's not go down that route overgraded and overhyped highball anyway.
:whistle:

Only natural to encourage Johnny Foreigner onto Johnny Grit tho, it is rather good.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2010, 10:34:53 am
Shame few of them ever experience Torridon Sandstone.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 04, 2010, 03:29:17 pm
To put everyone out of their misery, yesterday he finished off Northern Lights which he thought was very good, onsighted Full Tilt, carried on but dropped the onsight of True North right at the very top just below the Urgent Action rail, onsighted Ecstacy and onsighted Mandela. It was freezing yesterday at Kilnsey, even colder than on Saturday with strong winds whistling down the valley. I couldn't stay warm between climbs.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 04, 2010, 03:55:13 pm
I was geeky enough to check out Ondra's very up-to-date 8a.nu scorecard.

By Overnite Sensation he noted: 'Must come back for Overshadow. It is pretty stiff 9a+ indeed. Possibly 9b? I have no clue, it is very specific move.' Good to hear, props to Ste Mac!

He's added Northern Lights to his list of 10 recommended ascents and rated it as 'a great power endurance testpiece'.

Apparently he thought Mandela was soft at 8b, and described Zoolook as 'one of the best and hardest 8as'.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on May 04, 2010, 04:51:29 pm
Apparently he thought Mandela was soft at 8b, and described Zoolook as 'one of the best and hardest 8as'.

I've heard that before from Kristian.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: JohnM on May 04, 2010, 05:10:52 pm
Does anyone know how much pre-cleaning went on before he did these routes?  Mandela and Ecstasy must have been pretty filthy.  He must have had a cleaning team working through the night!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 04, 2010, 05:15:41 pm
Ecstasy was clean, he said Mandela wasn't too bad even though it wasn't cleaned prior to him doing it.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 04, 2010, 05:41:36 pm
Does anyone know how much pre-cleaning went on before he did these routes?  Mandela and Ecstasy must have been pretty filthy.  He must have had a cleaning team working through the night!

Dan did ecstacy on the saturday so it was presumably cleaned recently prior to ondra's onsight.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 04, 2010, 05:49:42 pm
It's pretty staggering the way he knocks off 9a as if it's nothing. When you think that the project that became North Star defeated the best in this country for years and he casually ticked it in four goes.
 :bow:

As people have said, we already knew what he was capable of but it really brings it home when it's at crags (and on routes) that we all know.

Great to see that he thinks Overshadow is possibly 9b and also that he's obviously been impressed with the quality of the routes in general.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 04, 2010, 05:57:32 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 04, 2010, 07:51:55 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

So there's only 3 people can hang those holds. Who are they  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Paul B on May 04, 2010, 09:00:38 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

didn't keith transfer from the tiny mono's to the 45's with nonchalant ease at Maisonbleau?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: account_inactive on May 04, 2010, 09:05:05 pm
I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 04, 2010, 10:00:20 pm
I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry

Not quite, I was paying due homage to the shit stained shorts boy by using his quote. But obviously Dan the Man and Ned the Ned can hang the 45 degree deranged Tory Boy (ie sloper) so who is the 3rd person. Obviously Ondra is a weak punter if he can't  ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jwi on May 04, 2010, 10:18:00 pm
So Overshadow may be the world's first 9b route then?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on May 04, 2010, 10:39:16 pm
Bearing in mind rouhling did akira at F9b in 1995.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: jwi on May 04, 2010, 10:49:48 pm
route I wrote. (Can of worms to open eager I am.)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: account_inactive on May 04, 2010, 11:32:17 pm
I think that Graeme is referring to Jerry

Not quite, I was paying due homage to the shit stained shorts boy by using his quote. But obviously Dan the Man and Ned the Ned can hang the 45 degree deranged Tory Boy (ie sloper) so who is the 3rd person. Obviously Ondra is a weak punter if he can't  ;)

I know at least 5 people who can hang them (obviously not me)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 05, 2010, 09:48:44 am
Er, loads of people can hang them but Stu was on about "his" Beastmaker which I presume is either mounted at a slightly different angle or smeared with lard thus making hanging the 45s a much more difficult proposition. There's been much discussion before about slight differences in how the board is mounted and in temperature / wood grain etc can make a huge difference to how hard it is to use certain holds.


At least I think that's what Stu meant.  :-\
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on May 05, 2010, 01:01:25 pm
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37381 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37381)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 05, 2010, 01:08:26 pm
Er, loads of people can hang them but Stu was on about "his" Beastmaker which I presume is either mounted at a slightly different angle or smeared with lard thus making hanging the 45s a much more difficult proposition. There's been much discussion before about slight differences in how the board is mounted and in temperature / wood grain etc can make a huge difference to how hard it is to use certain holds.


At least I think that's what Stu meant.  :-\

Well, he didn't see any other beastmakers, so yeah - that's what I meant. My board isn't really mounted straight, which probably doesn't help. And he looked at it for 30 seconds. After all that crushing, are we really going to fixate on his beastmaker prowess? Have we really strayed so far from the path?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 05, 2010, 01:15:43 pm
Personally I couldn't care less. Just being a pedant about people getting their facts right.  :-[
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 05, 2010, 02:01:44 pm
Well Stu when I see Ondra at the first Bouldering World Cup next week I will tell him that your BM wasn't set correctly. This will reassure him that he isn't as weak as piss and he will go onto to win the comp with his self confidence restored.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Aussiegav on May 05, 2010, 02:52:14 pm
out of interest, has any UK climbing journalist had a formal interview with Ondra??
it would be worthwhile reading a climbing magazine with a decent well constructed article for a change..

the week past has done 3 things IMO,
1. shown that england has some hard world class sport routes
2. Ondra is simply in a class of his own. once in a generation talent
3. that a guy who works and has a  young family still manages to be the best climber in england. great effort steve  :bow:
this i feel is equally a outstanding achievement.


hopefully this week will be the catalyst for a new generation of strong and talented UK climbers .  time will tell..
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 05, 2010, 05:17:47 pm
Grimer interviewed him at Arco in September, can't remember if it appeared anywhere though
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: cowboyhat on May 05, 2010, 06:17:35 pm

3. that a guy who works and has a  young family still manages to be the best climber in england. great effort steve  :bow:
this i feel is equally a outstanding achievement.



Hear, hear.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: grimer on May 05, 2010, 06:25:25 pm
Grimer interviewed him at Arco in September, can't remember if it appeared anywhere though

Yes I did. It formed part of an article I did for Rock and Ice. Here's the pertinent section:

In an effort to justify my existence from a journalistic point of view, I decided I would interview the best climber in the world. Adam Ondra is only sixteen years old and eats 9a for breakfast, lunch and dinner. This might well be all he eats, for he is tall and skinny, with gangling limbs and with his knucklejoint knees and shy loping walk, he reminds me of an hour-old foal. Chris Sharma once told me that he understands what all the top climbers in the world do, and how they do it, apart from Adam. Adam was on a different level, he assured me.

“Good luck,” a Spanish journalist wished me. "I have tried to interview Adam now three times but he is very shy. Very shy.”

I suspected this was true. Earlier Adam had been at the prize ceremony, having come third to the Austrian David Lama and Spaniard Ramonet. Adam stood on the 3rd place box while an amazing looking blond beauty gave a huge bunch of flowers to him. He stood, awkwardly, obviously not really knowing what to do. I recognised this look from my own teenage experiences, and I imagined the horror of standing there with everyone looking. Next David came out, looking cool and surly and confident and they shook hands. Ramonet then came out (Ramonet, little Ramonet who, when stood on the winner’s block was still a little shorter than Adam on his third-place block), and he and David gave each other one of this cool handshakes, with different parts to it and biceps and backslaps. He turned to Adam and they exchanged one of those handshakes that you imagine English explorers give each other at the South Pole in 1907.

I found him, and he agreed to an interview. We sat down on a bench, I set up my Dictaphone and launched off into my specially prepared questions.

“What’s your favourite colour? Do you prefer cats? Tits or ass?

These weren’t the questions I really asked, although maybe I should have. Instead I asked about 9as and redpointing and grades. He answered politely, but quite soon into it a voice inside my head started to point out the fact that this was probably the hundredth time some tedious man more than twice his age was asking him the same tedious questions. It started to point out to me what a bore I was, and whether I had nothing better to do than asking little boys about what subjects they do at school. Pretty soon, to save both of us from further humiliation, I found myself thanking Adam effusively for a tremendous interview and scurrying off to a café to drown my embarrassment in some melted cheese.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: GraemeA on May 05, 2010, 07:44:24 pm
Would that be the same David Lama who later on that evening was trying to fathom out whether he could extract the Guiness that flows in all Irish viens by sucking bits of your body?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Percy B on May 05, 2010, 09:17:32 pm
Would that be the same David Lama who later on that evening was trying to fathom out whether he could extract the Guiness that flows in all Irish viens by sucking bits of your body?

I don't know about everybody else, but I have spent the last few moments trying to shift some very disturbing imagery from my mind..... "Ahhhh, c'mon David. The Irish body has even evolved a special fleshy nozzle to distribute the 'Guiness', to be sure, to be sure...."
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: duncan on May 05, 2010, 10:31:10 pm
most importantly; he said the 45s on my beastmaker we're 'impossible'. Makes me feel better for never managing to hang them...

This brings to mind a comment from Jack Geldard's blog (http://jackgeldard.com/page/2/), attributed to Adam Long:

“My lodger spends his evenings in our cellar hanging off a piece of carved wood he calls a ‘beastmaker’, he claims this is training for rock climbing. Bizarre.”

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: c.j.d. on May 06, 2010, 04:26:43 pm
Nodder can hang the 45's for 30 seconds.  Thats 8a you know.  Wow, Nodders cooler than Ondra.  Nodra - a new breed.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: c.j.d. on May 06, 2010, 04:27:46 pm
Although that could be absolute shit, spray  and hearsay.   :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fultonius on May 06, 2010, 07:02:31 pm
absolute shit, spray  and hearsay.   :)

That sounds like the recipe for a UKC News Article...  :-\
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: chummer on May 06, 2010, 09:01:14 pm
A 'Nodra' would be able to lock'em off with one arm whilst rolling a tab with the other..
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Jim on May 06, 2010, 09:51:29 pm
wouldn't a nodra have snakes instead of hair?

that would be far cooler than dangling off a bit of wood
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on May 06, 2010, 10:42:45 pm
Apparently he on-sighted Predator, the Oak and Magnetic and had 3 RPs on Overshadow.

Got some footage which I'll bob on here when I work out how :-\ :whistle:
 

Rubbish footage I'm afraid.............
Ondra - Overshadow RP. (http://www.vimeo.com/11534937)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Aussiegav on May 07, 2010, 12:21:08 am
from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they?? :spank:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 07, 2010, 12:29:18 am
from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they?? :spank:

It would have been impressive if he had - there is no chain on EV.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 07, 2010, 10:18:59 am
More importantly, what sort of belaying was that on the EV clip.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: RichK on May 07, 2010, 10:26:05 am
from Rich K's Energy Vampire video.
"its ok to grab the chain"
what sort of ethics are they?? :spank:

It would have been impressive if he had - there is no chain on EV.

  :wall: Its a maze of ethics round those shit short routes catwalk mega classics :shrug:
 
Energy Vampire Footage......

Ondra - Energy Vampire O/S attempt. (http://www.vimeo.com/11535443)



Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 07, 2010, 10:26:57 am
A Lovatt belay for a Lovatt route?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 07, 2010, 10:28:47 am
A Lovatt belay for a Lovatt route?

Looks like he also did the coming in from the left beta?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 07, 2010, 10:34:02 am
A Lovatt belay for a Lovatt route?

Looks like he also did the coming in from the left beta?

World's best climber comes to Malham, misses out the hardest move on EV and then falls off the top - Lovatt's gonna be unbearable when he hears about that.
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on March 07, 2011, 03:33:10 pm
sure some English reports will appear soon

http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-8c-mas--a-vista-en-etxauri (http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-8c-mas--a-vista-en-etxauri)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Stubbs on March 07, 2011, 03:43:04 pm
Quote
Witnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.

That's what I thought too
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on March 07, 2011, 03:44:58 pm
Quote
Witnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.

That's what I thought too

lol yeah  translates as ....witnesses say he didnt even remove his climbing shoes between "fuck the police" and tekken.
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: robertostallioni on March 07, 2011, 03:48:33 pm
Quote
witnesses say he didnt even remove his climbing shoes between "fuck the police" and tekken

Thats nothing. I often see folks leave their shoes on all day.  :blink:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: shark on March 07, 2011, 05:46:06 pm
There's only one emoticon can do justice to this:

:badger:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 07, 2011, 05:52:27 pm
There's only one emoticon can do justice to this:

:badger:

Indeed.
http://www.badgerbadgerbadger.com/ (http://www.badgerbadgerbadger.com/)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Cassidy on March 07, 2011, 06:08:51 pm
The latest update seems to say he has now onsighted 9a!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Cassidy on March 07, 2011, 06:11:40 pm
"Ultimísima hora" (lunes, 19 h):

¡¡Adam Ondra acaba de encadenar a vista Bizi euskaraz!!


 :o :thumbsup:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: lukeyboy on March 07, 2011, 06:15:25 pm
Quote
Witnesses tell us that the police Fuck and Tekken is not even removed the cats.

That's what I thought too

I prefer the google translation

"Witnesses tell us that the police and Tekken Fuck even removed the cats."

And yes it does now look like he has onsighted 9a  :o
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: lukeyboy on March 07, 2011, 06:18:42 pm
Actually having looked at it again I'm now thinking he has onsighted Bizi Euskaraz (8c+) but the previous bit says he was going to try Bizi Euskaraz and Begi Puntuan (9a). I think these are 2 different routes....?

Still....!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Cassidy on March 07, 2011, 06:21:47 pm
oh well just another 8c+ then!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: ducko on March 07, 2011, 08:14:27 pm
ondra's too good, annoying curly haired mother with skills..
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Moo on March 07, 2011, 08:52:13 pm
hate on the boy all you want but leave the mother out of this
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: ducko on March 07, 2011, 08:53:53 pm
i dont hate the guy he's just too good, he needs to come try big bang and get the 2nd ascent
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: slackline on March 07, 2011, 08:58:04 pm
i dont hate the guy he's just too good, he needs to come try big bang and get the 2nd ascent

Thats an oxymoron.
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Ethan on March 09, 2011, 08:58:00 pm
He's only gone and onsighted two more 8c+!

http://danifuertes.blogspot.com/ (http://danifuertes.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Teaboy on March 09, 2011, 10:15:30 pm
As Sid Waddell might have said; "When Alexander of Macedonia was 33, he cried salt tears because there were no more worlds to conquer...Ondra's only 17."
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Doylo on March 10, 2011, 05:26:46 pm
This level of performance is quite shocking and a clear step up.8c+ onsight is obviously not his limit judging by these performances.incredible.the guy  who stated on the other channel that this is not a step up is wrong.
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: andybfreeman on March 10, 2011, 05:44:24 pm
This level of performance is quite shocking and a clear step up.8c+ onsight is obviously not his limit judging by these performances.incredible.the guy  who stated on the other channel that this is not a step up is wrong.


:agree: Ondra is clearly on a different level!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: lukeyboy on March 10, 2011, 06:14:30 pm
This level of performance is quite shocking and a clear step up.8c+ onsight is obviously not his limit judging by these performances.incredible.the guy  who stated on the other channel that this is not a step up is wrong.

(http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/duty_calls.png)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: ferret on March 10, 2011, 09:16:25 pm
Ondra en Etxauri (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdfP5aoFEvQ&feature=player_embedded#ws)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Andy F on March 10, 2011, 10:34:52 pm
Ondra makes that look about 6c+, nevermind 8c+. I hope I guess all the really hard stuff was low down, before the clip started...
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Ethan on March 10, 2011, 10:57:15 pm
Interview below.

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37961# (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37961#)
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Duma on March 10, 2011, 11:15:36 pm
This is fucking insane, another level is right.

Interesting line from the article linked above:
"Ondra himself knows far better than anyone else where his chances lie and it is worth noting that at Extauri the other day he opted to leave Begi puntuan for another trip. And that he has consistently resisted temptation and steered clear of the iconic Realization at Ceuse... "
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 11, 2011, 12:01:47 pm
If he's never seen any of the Realisation videos then that really is impressive forward planning!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Doylo on March 11, 2011, 12:15:44 pm
I imagine  he'd be happy with the flash on a 9a+ jasp!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 11, 2011, 12:47:03 pm
Punter. Aim high!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: slackline on March 14, 2011, 01:00:51 pm
Ondra has added an extension to an exisiting Dani Andrada 8c+ (Obrint pas extension) to give a proposed 9a+ (Obrint el sistema) from Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/news_escalade~74660.adam-ondra-espagne-nouvelle-voie-montagne-escalade-extreme-liberee-santa-ana.html?#n74660).

Took him 5 go's  :o
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 14, 2011, 01:11:12 pm
Does that article actually call him "Harry Potter"?  :lol:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: IanP on March 14, 2011, 03:25:38 pm
Ondra has added an extension to an exisiting Dani Andrada 8c+ (Obrint pas extension) to give a proposed 9a+ (Obrint el sistema) from Kairn (http://www.kairn.com/news_escalade~74660.adam-ondra-espagne-nouvelle-voie-montagne-escalade-extreme-liberee-santa-ana.html?#n74660).

Took him 5 go's  :o

According to Desnivel (Google translate) it was an open project:

Czech climber continues its tour of our country and chains 'Obrint the system' 9a +, an open project by Dani Andrada five years ago, and that is the continuation of 'Obrint pas extension' 8c +.

Also:

Dani Andrada's opinion on Adam Ondra, "It's inhumane. Has revolutionized climbing. To the extent that when he makes a 9a + paste the fifth gives you the feeling that it has cost to how strong he is! "

Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Paul B on March 14, 2011, 03:53:56 pm
We should probably just change the thread title to 'Ondrawad' and set an RSS the rate he churns out newsworthy ascents/repeats!
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Ethan on March 14, 2011, 06:57:39 pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOaZs14D6F0&feature=player_embedded#at=165 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOaZs14D6F0&feature=player_embedded#at=165)

Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: Doylo on March 14, 2011, 08:38:52 pm
Good to see even andrada is shocked!
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on March 20, 2011, 09:46:20 pm
We should probably just change the thread title to 'Ondrawad' and set an RSS the rate he churns out newsworthy ascents/repeats!

Good idea - I will make it sticky too

We are not worthy

 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on March 20, 2011, 10:57:45 pm
Got to say, that is my favourite tantrum so far  :lol:

I dont blame him though, he looked so solid for the finish!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on March 21, 2011, 10:57:37 am
And another 8c+ onsight! Mind Control in Oliana. :bow:
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: north_country_boy on March 21, 2011, 11:25:03 am
Good to see even andrada is shocked!

There is a brilliant Spanish climbing DVD (name escapes me - but its always on loop in the Siurana bar on wet days!) which has footage of Ondra literally Running up La Rambla, while Andrada, Ojeda and Marin look on in amazement!

Edu Marin almost seems ready to pack in climbing.......Andrada however sees it as a personal motivation to try harder and tick his project! Although his subsequent comments about Ondra having the physique of a Freak are amusing....
Title: Re: 8c+ onsight for ondra.
Post by: jwi on March 21, 2011, 01:42:07 pm
Good to see even andrada is shocked!

There is a brilliant Spanish climbing DVD (name escapes me - but its always on loop in the Siurana bar on wet days!) which has footage of Ondra literally Running up La Rambla, while Andrada, Ojeda and Marin look on in amazement!

Fanatic search. http://www.triaylaurent.com/worklessclimbmore-dvd-video-escalade-guides-espagne.html (http://www.triaylaurent.com/worklessclimbmore-dvd-video-escalade-guides-espagne.html)
The Fanatic Search2 is also well worth watching.  I bought it as an HD-download and really liked the footage from Verdon (Tom et Je Ris and that long thing Durif onsighted in a 100 m pitch....)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: simes on March 22, 2011, 06:02:37 pm
Got to say, that is my favourite tantrum so far  :lol:

I dont blame him though, he looked so solid for the finish!

He makes some very odd noises.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Robsons on March 23, 2011, 08:55:02 am
Ondrawad - perfect!
All these 8c+ onsights and the videos to follow means I will never be able to onsight them "now"! g'uh!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on March 28, 2011, 07:30:15 am
It appears that he may have grabbed the FA of Sharma's Shaxi Raxi, 9b! Followed by another 8c+ onsight, all in the same day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on March 28, 2011, 12:56:09 pm
Jeebus Christ.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 28, 2011, 01:02:18 pm
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38012 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38012)

Not sure what to say but this seems to sum it up..... :w00t:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 28, 2011, 01:04:42 pm
Quote
Well, it's circa 40m high with the crux after the second bolt, a difficult section which would be about Fb8B+ boulder. This is then followed by circa 9a/9a+ climbing, with some good rests.

Fucking hell.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on March 28, 2011, 01:45:58 pm
Quote from: url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38012

Which, from some points of view, risks being made banal by its mind-blowing numbers and above all the frequency with which Ondra himself manages to send. But this certainly is anything but banal, on the contrary! And there can be no doubt that what Ondra has shown us during these last fortnight is the start of the future.
  :agree:

Not sure what to say either so I'll leave it to the badgers

:badger: :badger: :badger: :badger: :badger:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on March 28, 2011, 01:49:58 pm
Just completely gobsmacking. 8B+ halfway up a wall followed by 9a/+ afterwards.

If he put his mind to bouldering I feel like Daniel Woods would be blown out of the water too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on March 28, 2011, 04:36:27 pm
I was in Oliana on Thursday and watched him trying Shaxi Raxi. He got a big cheer from the onlookers when he made it past the 3rd bolt, which shows how hard and bouldery the start was. Then he was cruising and looking set to do it when he cocked up his footwork and slipped off at about 40m up...

Awe-inspiring pterodactyl-esque screaming ensued. I would have laughed a little if I wasn't so terribly afraid. Normal humans cannot make those sounds!

Really pleased he got it, amazing to watch him climb. I also enjoyed seeing him warm up easily on an 8a.

The kid is the next level.   8) :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on March 28, 2011, 04:46:06 pm
Over on the other channel, Björn is saying that Ondra and Sharma are off to try Chilam Balam together in a week or two.

Then all he has to do is tick Akira and The Big Bang, and that should have finished off pretty much everything from the nineties, no? (OK google tells me that Chila Balam was 2003, but still.)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 28, 2011, 05:00:50 pm
Your going to upset the Gaskinites!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: north_country_boy on March 28, 2011, 05:58:14 pm
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on March 28, 2011, 06:05:15 pm
Your going to upset the Gaskinites!

To be fair, that is basically a boulder problem with a rope.  It was the hardest moves Gaskins ever did, so it's no giveaway at font 8c, so the F9a+ grade is a little misleading.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2011, 06:08:48 pm
I think Ondrawatch news needs to be recalibrated. Unless the grade has a 9 and a b in it he shouldn't get a mention.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Paul B on March 28, 2011, 06:15:48 pm
"Ondrawad" "Ondrawatch" "Ondrawadtch"  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on March 28, 2011, 06:58:40 pm
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)

Keith said he's planning to come back in a few weeks
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 28, 2011, 07:14:06 pm
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)

Keith said he's planning to come back in a few weeks

Pete better get a wriggle on then if he wants the second ascent of Big Bang.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on March 28, 2011, 07:40:36 pm
There was a pic in climber of ondra standing under VNB with a cheeky smile.I wouldn't try this route if i was ondra.why if you can climb amazing 50 metre routes with font 8b+ on them would you want to pull on a two move route on razors that the first ascentionist (font 8c climber)had to spend 100 days on
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: joel on March 28, 2011, 07:50:28 pm
"Ondrawad" "Ondrawatch" "Ondrawadtch"  :thumbsup:
  :goodidea:

amazing stuff. What's to come....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on March 28, 2011, 08:24:36 pm

Just incredible.

Did any of it get captured on film? It seems the fancy one that was due last year is still in production.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mikester on March 28, 2011, 08:29:40 pm
Truly amazing stuff. Sometimes I'm proud of my modest little achievements, but suddenly seem a bit trivial. Hey ho.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yoof on March 28, 2011, 08:52:13 pm
Whatta monster. Am I the only one who is a bit confused as to what a "Circa" is?

I Like Ondrawadch :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chummer on March 28, 2011, 09:21:17 pm
Am I the only one who is a bit confused as to what a "Circa" is?

:clap2: that's priceless! Cheered me up  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 28, 2011, 10:16:38 pm
Am I the only one who is a bit confused as to what a "Circa" is?

:google: can be used as a dictionary (http://tinyurl.com/4c6ohm7) as well as a search engine.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Beastio on March 28, 2011, 10:57:58 pm
There was a pic in climber of ondra standing under VNB with a cheeky smile.I wouldn't try this route if i was ondra.why if you can climb amazing 50 metre routes with font 8b+ on them would you want to pull on a two move route on razors that the first ascentionist (font 8c climber)had to spend 100 days on

Take that back!  :badidea:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 29, 2011, 08:19:51 am
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)

Was thinking about this. It's pretty amazing that Ondra is so far ahead of the game that he's acting as a one man boy grade calibrator for the World. Finally we're able to see where routes really stand in history (Open Air being the perfect example) as he also seems pretty good at realising what is hard because it's hard and what just isn't his style. From what he's said already, Steve's routes stand the test and Overshadow may actually be 9b. Which is interesting.

It's also interesting that people are talking about "the next level" as if it's a movement in standards created by a general shift in ability rather than one kid being so much better than everyone else. I realise there are other very talented youngsters coming through (Enzo Oddo, Geoffrey Flanburglaries etc) but Ondra is so far ahead at the moment, I don't think climbing has ever witnessed anything like it. Knocking over 9b projects in a few days and warming down with an 8c+ onsight is incomprehensible. When he does eventually spend some time on something you can see it standing unrepeated for decades.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on March 29, 2011, 10:16:16 am
We arrived at Oliana on a rest day crag tour just in time to hear the cheers when he rp'd the 9b.  Watched him onsight the 8c+ though to be honest its was so low key we thought he hadn't quite made it until we saw the info on the web later - a couple of power screams high up was about it.  I'm sure it's been said before but its amazing how fast he climbs, just blasting through the moves, missing out every other clip as he gets high up. 

Seems to me that he's the Usain Bolt of the climbing working on a different plane to everyone else.  As Bolt  backs off and waves to the crowd while breaking the 100m world record, Ondra has holiday ticks which are among the hardest routes in the world and warms down with an 8c+ onsight.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on March 29, 2011, 08:07:52 pm
With all these 9b's under his belt, he'll be better placed to grade Overshadow if he comes back  ;)

Was thinking about this. It's pretty amazing that Ondra is so far ahead of the game that he's acting as a one man boy grade calibrator for the World. Finally we're able to see where routes really stand in history (Open Air being the perfect example) as he also seems pretty good at realising what is hard because it's hard and what just isn't his style. From what he's said already, Steve's routes stand the test and Overshadow may actually be 9b. Which is interesting.

It's also interesting that people are talking about "the next level" as if it's a movement in standards created by a general shift in ability rather than one kid being so much better than everyone else. I realise there are other very talented youngsters coming through (Enzo Oddo, Geoffrey Flanburglaries etc) but Ondra is so far ahead at the moment, I don't think climbing has ever witnessed anything like it. Knocking over 9b projects in a few days and warming down with an 8c+ onsight is incomprehensible. When he does eventually spend some time on something you can see it standing unrepeated for decades.
Yep tis unreal!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on March 30, 2011, 01:31:23 pm

Photos of Ondra on Chaxi Raxi here (http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/thumbnails.php?album=78)

Although to be fair they look like any other pics of Ondra (pale & skinny on steep rock wearing Miuras).

Linked to by http://kairn.com/news_escalade_74844.portfolio-ondra-shaxi-raxi-9b-oliana.html (http://kairn.com/news_escalade_74844.portfolio-ondra-shaxi-raxi-9b-oliana.html) (who persist in undermining their reputation as a serious news source by calling him "Harry Potter"  :thumbsup: )


Uh? how come there are two "thumbsup" emoticons in the list but both use the same bbcode? I prefer http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
to
http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2011, 01:55:19 pm

Uh? how come there are two "thumbsup" emoticons in the list but both use the same bbcode? I prefer http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup2.gif)
to
http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/thumbsup.gif)

Noticed that too, there was a similar problem with the "wank" smileys but Bubba sorted it (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17197.msg305141.html#msg305141).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 02:12:11 pm
Nice link to another UKC Chilam Balam shitstorm there too.  :worms:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: robertostallioni on March 30, 2011, 02:34:04 pm
I wonder why I bother. I think thats me, over and out.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 02:49:09 pm
I wonder why I bother.

 :lol: Yeah that's what I thought when I read it. You were  :wall: :wall: :wall:

You can't educate pork.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2011, 02:55:36 pm
Thought this was amusing though...

Quote
> Given that Adam Ondra spends most the time with his shirt off, how come he's so pasty?

A) he climbs everything so quickly that the amount of time he spends topless is minimal.
B) All the routes he climbs are so overhanging the sun doesn't hit them.
C) He's a ghost... he doesn't actually climb the routes, he flies up them screaming as he goes.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 30, 2011, 02:59:35 pm
Really?  :tumble:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bubba on March 30, 2011, 03:14:40 pm
Smilies are now thumbsup and 2thumbsup.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yoof on April 02, 2011, 07:58:50 pm
Haha! Oops.
 ":google:can be used as a dictionary as well as a search engine"
Wonderful :D Thanks guys.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lemony on April 13, 2011, 09:00:19 pm
First(?) Ascent of Chillam Ballam according to Bjorn on the other side. 4 attempts, fine machine:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61640 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61640)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on April 13, 2011, 09:17:00 pm
 :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Andy F on April 13, 2011, 09:28:20 pm
 :jaw: :ohmy: :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on April 13, 2011, 09:50:38 pm
wowza...
Just completely stunning...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on April 13, 2011, 09:51:20 pm
All hail the mighty ondrawad  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 14, 2011, 08:48:48 am
Just amazing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2011, 08:59:12 am
Awesome.

Is this Barnabe bloke a bit of a Richard Simpson type then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 14, 2011, 09:02:23 am
If you mean an extremely talented climber, many of whose ascents are shrouded in controversy.......... then yes.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2011, 09:09:03 am
That's what I meant.

If I had meant bonkers fantasist who could never get close to doing it I would have said Si O'Connor type.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on April 14, 2011, 09:20:45 am
The spanish grapevine says 9a+/b
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-chilam-balam (http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-chilam-balam)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on April 14, 2011, 09:28:38 am
The Ondrawad rules!   :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Serpico on April 14, 2011, 09:36:57 am
It's not all about the climbing (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38054). I think he's just on a mission to make me feel inadequate, expect a super-model girlfriend next.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on April 14, 2011, 10:25:44 am
He's only done that to get his weight down even further.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on April 14, 2011, 10:34:11 am
If I act as donee of his bone marrow, will I acquire some of his powers?
 :alien:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on April 14, 2011, 11:03:06 am

No route is safe. That is seriously impressive. :2thumbsup:

I can't bring myself to go and see the news reports over at 8a.nu. I imagine there's a certain amount of gushing going on.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JohnM on April 14, 2011, 12:08:06 pm
Is this not the route that had bolt on holds on one section?  Does anyone know if Ondra used these?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 14, 2011, 12:11:18 pm
I bet he made it look piss.Mawson told me something that put that mind con :thumbsdown:trol onsight footage into perspective.while he was working Humildes pas case the 8b+ that shares the same start Dave graham,one of the best climbers of the last 10 years was working mind control and having a really hard time.he was struggling to get between the bolts.the gulf is gettng massive! Id like to see ondra do akira.it might be a bit shit looking but its one of the last unknowns.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nigel on April 14, 2011, 12:27:44 pm
Is this not the route that had bolt on holds on one section?  Does anyone know if Ondra used these?

No that was Orujo 9a+ at Archidona (?).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on April 14, 2011, 12:39:52 pm
Ukc article now updated with an interview from Ondra, normal 9b apparently, maybe soft....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on April 14, 2011, 07:06:20 pm
pffft, hardly newsworthy then.
Not even an FA!

Everyone can stop gushing now.  :coffee:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamesR on April 14, 2011, 10:15:48 pm
 Don't worry lads, he'll discover the joys of lager and late night clubs soon enough.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nik at work on April 15, 2011, 12:02:01 am
It's not all about the climbing (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38054). I think he's just on a mission to make me feel inadequate, expect a super-model girlfriend next.
If you want to become a donor go here:
http://www.anthonynolan.org/ (http://www.anthonynolan.org/)

Do it, it's pretty unlikely you'll be a match for someone and this selfless shit is a definite gusset moistener for the ladies (oh and you might save someones life blah-de-blah-whatever...)

Ondra is good at climbing.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on April 17, 2011, 08:19:00 pm


Ondra is good at climbing.
 

 :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on April 19, 2011, 08:25:27 am
 :popcorn: :bow:

Adam Ondra en Chilam Balam y proyecto de Villanueva del Rosario (Málaga) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSvgABrW_ms#)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on April 19, 2011, 08:35:31 am
Jug pull! It looks very cool.

Classic spanish adventure mullet at the start there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on April 19, 2011, 03:25:13 pm
It's not all about the climbing (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=38054). I think he's just on a mission to make me feel inadequate, expect a super-model girlfriend next.
If you want to become a donor go here:
http://www.anthonynolan.org/ (http://www.anthonynolan.org/)

Do it, it's pretty unlikely you'll be a match for someone and this selfless shit is a definite gusset moistener for the ladies (oh and you might save someones life blah-de-blah-whatever...)

Ondra is good at climbing.

Indeed, do it. some german girl who did saved my little sisters life.
sorry for off topic...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on April 19, 2011, 08:20:25 pm
nice vid slackline, good to see ondra climbing something different from his usual style of minging crimps. still amazes me how quick he climbs, so fluent.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on April 25, 2011, 07:56:46 am
Project in that last video now sent, 'nother 9b etc. etc.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on April 25, 2011, 08:06:11 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00ZZmZdap84&feature=player_embedded#at=426 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00ZZmZdap84&feature=player_embedded#at=426)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on April 25, 2011, 10:52:43 am
8a.nu reports it went down in 8 tries, 8 tries for christ sake.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on April 28, 2011, 10:45:31 pm
Chilam Balam (http://vimeo.com/22814261)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on April 28, 2011, 10:54:00 pm
Does anybody know where that last bit is where he takes a hang at the end of the vid. Is that the crux bit involving a two finger pocket?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nike Air on May 12, 2011, 09:17:52 pm
He is back in town :chair: :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 12, 2011, 09:20:30 pm
someone kidnap him and bring him to LPT for a easy day out, please!!!!!!!!!!!!  :please:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Dexter on May 12, 2011, 09:28:30 pm
bring him to the cave more like   :)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 12, 2011, 09:32:51 pm
Would be good to see Big Bang then In Hell into Bonnie extension on his active rest day  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Kingy on May 12, 2011, 09:37:17 pm
 :popcorn:

Cool, stick him back on mutation immediately!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 12, 2011, 09:43:56 pm
or maybe he'd crack the so called Holy Trinity on the quick, Big Bang, pilgrimage and jonnys pill box problem
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ducko on May 12, 2011, 10:33:45 pm
im with doylo, bring the lad too LPT!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Robsons on May 13, 2011, 09:39:06 am
Looking forward to this...good lad! :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ianv on May 13, 2011, 09:58:45 am
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5063/5619294173_677da6ccb7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/)
Picture1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/#) by ianvincent (http://www.flickr.com/people/37621241@N05/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ali k on May 13, 2011, 10:43:30 am
Are you busy on film duty again Rich?  :great:

 :please:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Robsons on May 13, 2011, 05:59:36 pm
Any updates...?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on May 13, 2011, 08:17:03 pm
According to a mate a the crag today, Overshadow is still holding out, or was by the time he left.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: mikester on May 13, 2011, 08:22:24 pm
According to a mate a the crag today, Overshadow is still holding out, or was by the time he left.

Come on Overshadow, you can do it!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 13, 2011, 09:04:15 pm
According to a mate a the crag today, Overshadow is still holding out,

Officially hard then.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 13, 2011, 09:07:01 pm
I heard his foot popped on the top section, sounds like its a goer  :punk:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: 220bpm on May 13, 2011, 09:53:12 pm
Gotta love the fight and effort that went into the FA and the only only serious repeat effort to date.

Just 'kin awesome  :bow:

Proud so see this unfold on our shores.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nike Air on May 13, 2011, 10:16:51 pm
His first effort today was awesome, a foot popping was the thing stopping him just short of the belay. Another go falling at the crux then the last go as we were leaving he just nearly made it through the crux but it spat him off. He is awesome to watch, he knows how to battle. Maybe though if he had not refused one of my biscuits he would have done it......
He made connect5 look 6b+ too.
Come on Adam :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 13, 2011, 10:51:45 pm
Maybe though if he had not refused one of my biscuits he would have done it......

Like your thinking Jordan. We all need to feed him biscuits.  Somehow we need to destroy this lanky bendy freak....one biscuit at a time...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: mark s on May 14, 2011, 07:44:59 am
Are there any routes he has admited defeat to?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: robertostallioni on May 14, 2011, 07:52:43 am
As in, said he'll never be able to do, or failed on, or dropped the o/s and not bothered to redpoint?

He didn't bother  to r/p lots of routes at Malham last year.
He hurt his finger in Spain on Demencia Senil. Dont know if he went back for it.

Was it a rhetorical question?

is this?

or this?

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nibile on May 14, 2011, 12:13:51 pm
I've read he lowered off from one of moroni's routes last year. ste mac is clearly a wad of wads.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Danny on May 14, 2011, 12:42:59 pm
Didn't he get shut down on this?

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=36940# (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=36940#)

Punt.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on May 14, 2011, 07:48:29 pm
Quote
“Are there any routes he has admitted defeat to?” – mark s
No (AFAIK).  And there aren’t likely to be any either.  But obviously as said above, there’s loads of routes he’s had brief plays on but not finished off – obvious examples being Demencia Senil, Pachamama, Neanderthal etc etc etc…

He does have the odd “relatively weak” spot though – notably arm strength…  So there may be the odd gymnastic route with lots of footless moves that he might find a bit spicy.  (Perhaps Akira - although he’s made it pretty clear he’s not interested in travelling large distances for stuff in caves like this in the near future so not likely to find out at least for a while).   But according to a recent interview, last winter he started “non climbing“ training for the first time (ie: campussing / weights etc) and plans to do much more next winter, so I suspect his “weak points” won’t be “weak” for very long…

Danny – not heard about him trying Eternit – find it very hard to believe that he would have got “shut down” on it…  It’s clearly going to be hard, but it’s totally his cup of tea…  Can’t imagine he tried it very much / rubbish conditions or something…  Looks like a brilliant route though and suspect, whether or not he has tried it already, he’ll be heading up there at some point.


On a different note, either by luck / judgement / or maybe a bit of both, he’s arrived in the UK in another week of pretty much perfect conditions for hard sport climbing…  Great to see Steve’s routes getting the attention they deserve…
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Fiend on May 15, 2011, 12:12:19 pm
VNB. Would be nice for him to have a play if nothing else. Although maybe more of a Woods / Robinson / Graham type thing...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 12:24:29 pm
Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Baldy on May 15, 2011, 03:11:51 pm
he was so far ahead of the field at the Sheff WC last year I dare say he would piss their projects within a few sessions.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on May 15, 2011, 06:01:04 pm
Quote
“Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot” – Doylo
Not in general IMO (yet at least) – although Confessions is arguably the hardest flash.  The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems.  And it’s power endurance (and quick recovery ability) that wins bouldering world cups (route climbers often do very well in bouldering comps).  But IMO, he isn’t quite at the top level yet in terms of short power problems.  Again, it largely comes down to lack of arm strength – until recently he couldn’t do a one armer (not sure if that’s still the case) and has done very little dynamic campussy type stuff.  On longer problems this kind of thing doesn’t make the slightest difference, but on short stuff that kind of oomph in the arms is often very important.  He’s done very few really hard short problems and those that he has done he’s found (relatively of course) difficult. 

Quote
“VNB. Would be nice for him to have a play if nothing else.” - Fiend
It wouldn’t particularly surprise me if he does have a quick play on it either on this or a future trip just to see what the score is.  (In the long run I suspect he pretty much aims to climb all the hard sport routes out there…)  But for me at least, if I had to rank the 9’s in the UK in order of quality this would be near the bottom – it’s not that it’s a bad route – it actually looks pretty good.  But Overshadow, Rainshadow etc really are up there with stuff like La Rambla and Realization as some of the very best hard sport routes in the world and those – not VNB or Parisella’s Cave - are what has drawn Ondra to the UK.  Having said that, VNB along with a few of Roughling’s routes are pretty much the last big “unknowns” in hard sport climbing – so it would be interesting if he had a play on it at some point.

To speculate wildly - I suspect that IF Gaskins’ sequence is the only way of climbing this then I’m quite sure it’s utterly nails.  But it is basically a really short boulder problem (with an approach that requires a rope).  On things like this, differences in height / etc can make big differences and it wouldn’t surprise me greatly if Ondra did try it, if he threw in an egyptian and found a much easier sequence.  But if the only way is Gaskins’ way, then I suspect that if he did have a quick play, he’d probably just suss out what he would need to specifically train and then leave it for a future trip. 



Anyway, what’s the latest?  Or is everyone avoiding Malham for fear of looking like a groupie?
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 06:12:24 pm
Quote
“Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot” – Doylo
Not in general IMO (yet at least) – although Confessions is arguably the hardest flash.  The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems.  And it’s power endurance (and quick recovery ability) that wins bouldering world cups (route climbers often do very well in bouldering comps).  But IMO, he isn’t quite at the top level yet in terms of short power problems.  Again, it largely comes down to lack of arm strength – until recently he couldn’t do a one armer (not sure if that’s still the case) and has done very little dynamic campussy type stuff.  On longer problems this kind of thing doesn’t make the slightest difference, but on short stuff that kind of oomph in the arms is often very important.  He’s done very few really hard short problems and those that he has done he’s found (relatively of course) difficult. 

He only goes bouldering twice a year, has probably the hardest flash ever and does stuff like Dirt and Big Paw as quick as the top boulderers. They might not be one move problems but if we're talking bouldering ability he's up there.  He might not be as strong but he can climb most of the same stuff they can despite concentrating on 40m+ routes for 95 % of the year.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Andy F on May 15, 2011, 06:15:44 pm

Anyway, what’s the latest?  Or is everyone avoiding Malham for fear of looking like a groupie?
 :popcorn:

According to someone on the other channel, Overshadow is still holding out.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: saltbeef on May 15, 2011, 06:20:17 pm
i agree with doyle. bear in mind some of these 9bs. you do an 8b boulder problem then instead of dropping off you rumble off up a 9a route! it is unthinkable.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 06:21:41 pm
i agree with doyle. bear in mind some of these 9bs. you do an 8b boulder problem then instead of dropping off you rumble off up a 9a route! it is unthinkable

8b+ boulder problem on Chaxi Raxi then 9a/+!!!!!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nemo on May 15, 2011, 06:41:32 pm
Quote
"He only goes bouldering twice a year, has probably the hardest flash ever and does stuff like Dirt and Big Paw as quick as the top boulderers. They might not be one move problems but if we're talking bouldering ability he's up there.  He might not be as strong but he can climb most of the same stuff they can despite concentrating on 40m+ routes for 95 % of the year." - Doylo

Entirely agree with all that...  Don't get the wrong idea - I'm not criticizing him in any way shape or form - for me he's without doubt the best all round sport climber / boulderer ever.  And he's still 18 and getting exponentially better by the day.  But you said it yourself - he doesn't go bouldering very often (or hasn't so far).  Clearly, given that fact, what he has achieved in bouldering is nothing short of gobsmacking.  And I'm quite sure that IF he put a bit more time into it (as I'm sure he will in the future) then he'll be up there at the very highest level in all aspects of bouldering.     

I was merely pointing out that at present at least I think generalised statements like:

Quote
Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot
and
Quote
he was so far ahead of the field at the Sheff WC last year I dare say he would piss their projects within a few sessions.
are a little wide of the mark...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 06:54:56 pm
Ondras as good at bouldering as that lot





are a little wide of the mark...

On the evidence it's not wide of the mark for reasons i stated.  He might not have a tick list (as we've said he hardly boulders) as meaty as the top boulderer's but he's demonstrated his ability is no less with the hard ascents that he's done and the speed they've taken him.  I think he'd meet his match on VNB tho, unless as you say he can technique it. Didn't Steve Dunning work out a potential long man's sequence years ago? Fuck Overshadow must be hard!  :clap2: 
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ali k on May 15, 2011, 07:34:05 pm

 Didn't Steve Dunning work out a potential long man's sequence years ago?


How long? Am I in with a chance? :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Baldy on May 15, 2011, 07:34:27 pm
Has he taken his training weight vest off yet?
Is it just me or is there less coverage this time than last?
Can we get a correspondant out there?

The majority of his most impressive bouldering ascents have been power endurance problems. 

Dunno...this looks pretty strong to me...

Stix SD_8B+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edrqt5Sajos&feature=related#ws)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 15, 2011, 07:45:39 pm

 Didn't Steve Dunning work out a potential long man's sequence years ago?


How long? Am I in with a chance? :bounce:

You'd piss it you lanky twat. That Kaela Borroka stamina will be right handy...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Clart on May 15, 2011, 08:07:02 pm

Dunno...this looks pretty strong to me...

Stix SD_8B+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edrqt5Sajos&feature=related#ws)

He does well there. Hearing the Swedish chief from the Muppets in the background would put me right off...

Muppet Show - Swedish Chef - making donut (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbs64GvGgPU&feature=related#)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ethan on May 16, 2011, 08:16:10 pm
Finally did Overshadow today.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: shark on May 16, 2011, 08:20:17 pm
Finally did Overshadow today.

Nice one Ethan. How did you find it?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: andy popp on May 16, 2011, 08:25:32 pm
Is that 6 days (3 last year, 3 this)? Its got to come in at 9b surely?

Great news anyway.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Snoops on May 16, 2011, 09:13:49 pm
Is that 6 days (3 last year, 3 this)? Its got to come in at 9b surely?

Great news anyway.

Waddage :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: willackers on May 16, 2011, 09:21:46 pm
Awesome!
:clap2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 16, 2011, 09:33:33 pm
Good work Adam, and respect to Steve McClure for putting up such a world class route.


Finally did Overshadow today.

Nice one Ethan. How did you find it?

 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: grimer on May 16, 2011, 09:49:39 pm
Yes indeed. We raise a glass to Adam and Steve.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 16, 2011, 09:52:38 pm
ace
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 16, 2011, 10:05:44 pm
Bat Route onsight aswell
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Nike Air on May 16, 2011, 10:22:06 pm
 :great: well done Adam!!   :clap2:
Onsighting Bat route but falling off Cry freedom, think i will move my clips over.....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: stom on May 16, 2011, 11:04:44 pm
http://www.steve-mcclure.com/
 (http://www.steve-mcclure.com/)  Words from the man himself!  :beer2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 17, 2011, 09:40:58 am
Brilliant!

Ondrawad  :great:  :clap2:

Ste wad   :strongbench:  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Robsons on May 17, 2011, 10:33:18 pm
BOOM! Love this...WAD points to both
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: uptown on May 17, 2011, 10:34:55 pm
Truly inspired after todays viewing and company.  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: TobyD on May 17, 2011, 11:12:31 pm
 :agree:  amazing.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 18, 2011, 09:12:06 am
Ondra has done Rainshadow too according to Stemac5a (https://twitter.com/#!/stemac5a/statuses/70762806802264064)

Quote from: Steve McClure
A well named route. Rainshadow also falls to Ondra despite torrential downpours. The Malham window is closing but stayed open just enough.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ethan on May 18, 2011, 09:33:06 am
And hes off to the Tor today!
http://www.steve-mcclure.com (http://www.steve-mcclure.com)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 18, 2011, 09:41:06 am
And hes off been to the Tor today!
http://www.steve-mcclure.com (http://www.steve-mcclure.com)

Says he's leaving at 09:30!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2011, 10:54:35 am
Ooo interesting thoughts on Total Eclipse!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: T_B on May 18, 2011, 11:42:08 am
What impresses me too is that he's pretty canny about getting the conditions isn't he? He wasn't at Malham in the heat of April, and judging by the excellent conditons at the Tor last night, this morning will be primo for pulling on some mingin shiny crimps...
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2011, 11:43:50 am
He hit Malham during the best conditions in 2010 and 2011, can't be a fluke!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Teaboy on May 18, 2011, 11:48:35 am
I think the Total Eclipse ascent the most interesting, must be terrifying to go up there, those bolts must be pretty old.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2011, 11:58:25 am
If they're stainless they should be ok. Not every route from the 90s has knackered bolts
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 18, 2011, 12:00:58 pm
He hit Malham during the best conditions in 2010 and 2011, can't be a fluke!

Maybe instinctively sensing the best conditions to crush is one of the Ondrawad's powers.  :alien:
Nice for SteMac to have the quality of Rainshadow confirmed.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Serpico on May 18, 2011, 03:38:39 pm
I think the Total Eclipse ascent the most interesting, must be terrifying to go up there, those bolts must be pretty old.

That's only a concern if there's a chance you might fall off.
Ondra doesn't fall off 9a's 8)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: ianv on May 19, 2011, 08:59:25 am
did ondra do anything at the tor after he stopped laughing?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: dave on May 19, 2011, 09:08:32 am
I doubt there was anyone to chaperone him on pinches wall at that time in the morning, so I imagine he couldn't get warmed up.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: roddersm on May 19, 2011, 10:15:29 am
Report on UKC says he got pretty close to doing Hubble.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 19, 2011, 11:40:15 am
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: IanP on May 19, 2011, 11:55:34 am
Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

According to Climber

'We received word from Ondra's friend and photographer Vojtech Vrzba, who is accompanying him again on this trip, this evening. He confirmed that Ondra sent Overshadow on his first attempt of the day on Monday and then went on to onsight Bat Route and narrowly missing an onsight of Unjustified. '

From Steve's blog that would be the same day he also fitted a working go on Rainshadow before redpointing it the next morning.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 19, 2011, 02:07:53 pm
Words of the wad himself on 8a.nu re: Rainshadow: "Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

How cool is that!?  :2thumbsup:

He described Overshadow as 'a mental war'!
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Will Hunt on May 19, 2011, 02:25:05 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 19, 2011, 02:47:56 pm
It means "Rainshadow is really good, but one of the things that spoils it slightly is the polish on Raindogs."
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: metal arms on May 19, 2011, 02:52:34 pm
It means "Rainshadow is really good, but one of the things that spoils it slightly is the polish on Raindogs."
Coming over here, climbing our routes....
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Footwork on May 19, 2011, 02:55:55 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: gme on May 19, 2011, 04:09:31 pm
I hope this means that some of our youngsters get on geriatric Steve's routes now, has this not broken down the aura that surrounded them.

I know ondra is a in a league of his own but surely a few of our top boys could start making a dint into these world class routes with a bit of effort. We constantly claim not to have any good hard routes here or that the ones we do are never in condition but that's obviously just bollocks. Ondra is a man/boy who has done or been on the hardest and best routes in the world and places rainshadow and northern lights as amongst the best. Is it really the case that the only UK climber capable of climbing them is more than old enough to to be Adams dad (granddad in certain parts of Liverpool).

Its nice to see he "failed" to do a 20 year old route on his jollys, i know he only spent 3 hours on it but he seems to onsight 8c+  every other week so 3 hours should have been ample time.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: T_B on May 19, 2011, 04:14:24 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Rocksteady on May 19, 2011, 04:14:34 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?

I took it to mean:

Rainshadow is one of the best routes I have done. It is only spoiled slightly by the fact that its start (up Raindogs) is polished.

Which I thought was good for Steve and the rep of UK sport climbing!

Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Will Hunt on May 19, 2011, 04:27:42 pm
Apologies for my ignorance. It is quite obvious when you know that Rainshadow starts up Raindogs  ::)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: uptown on May 19, 2011, 04:38:42 pm
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

Yep, he fell off Unjustified thanks to a foothold breaking.

I think the SYKE that Adam has managed to impart over here with his visits can only help encourage some of us Brits onto these hard routes. Sam 'had a look' at both Rainshadow and Bat route the other day, and he had a massive smile on his face when he came down.
I'll certainly have a dabble at some point in the future.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 19, 2011, 05:26:38 pm
"Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished"

So does that mean "Rainshadow is really good and Raindogs is the only climb at Malham that is less polished"?

Or does it mean "Rainshadow is really good. Raindogs is really good too but could do with being less polished"?

The first seems unlikely?

definately means the second.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Ru on May 19, 2011, 09:02:27 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.

An older looking japanese guy?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 19, 2011, 10:08:33 pm
He wrote on 8a.nu scorecard about Bat Route, "Soft and old classic, does it deserve the upgrade on 8c? hard to say, but harder than Unjustified"

Did he try and onsight Unjustified too?

Yep, he fell off Unjustified thanks to a foothold breaking.

Hope it wasn't an important one. :(
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: saltbeef on May 19, 2011, 10:20:44 pm
I hope this means we get some more foreign talent coming over in the future to have a go at some of our test-pieces.

There was a Japanese guy trying Hubble tuther evening. Pretty cool to see.

An older looking japanese guy?

he looked exceptionally hungry
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: account_inactive on May 19, 2011, 11:05:17 pm
So did he climb Unjustified and downgrade it to 8b+ (assuming he thought it easier that Bat Route) or did he just try to flash it and fall because of a broken foot hold?
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: remus on May 20, 2011, 09:13:53 am
Few good snaps courtesy of the other channel: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62293 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62293)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: cofe on May 20, 2011, 09:26:48 am
Didn't realise it was the first time 8c had been onsighted/flashed in the UK - is that right? Impressive as the rest if so.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 09:27:53 am
Nice, he looks like he's really enjoying himself.  :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: cofe on May 20, 2011, 09:53:32 am
the smug twat ;)
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2011, 10:56:50 am
Didn't realise it was the first time 8c had been onsighted/flashed in the UK - is that right? Impressive as the rest if so.

It is. Interesting he rated Bat Route as 'soft' as most brits who get on it seem to think it isn't. Pinch of salt with that one maybe
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Bonjoy on May 20, 2011, 11:02:57 am
How come this thread has been stickified? Didn’t realise Ondra was planning to come back and stay at Malham indefinitely. And there is already a stickified Ondra thread….
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 11:09:22 am
Indeed, why not just merge the two threads?  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 11:24:26 am
Seems to have worked ok, all* posts from the previous thread are in here in chronological order.

* Well, when I say all, I mean I can see posts from both threads in here.
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 20, 2011, 11:37:56 am
It is. Interesting he rated Bat Route as 'soft' as most brits who get on it seem to think it isn't. Pinch of salt with that one maybe

Maybe not. Most of us aren't endurance beasts, Steve had a duff sequence and Mawson crushed it. Maybe it is soft. I'm telling myself it is anyway, in the hope that it will actually make it easier.

The Sunday at Malham was really an amazing scene; watching Steve and Adam working desperate projects, Timmy and Dave taking massive peelers off the groove. Very inspiring. 
Title: Re: Ondra at Malham
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2011, 11:47:06 am
Quote
Maybe not. Most of us aren't endurance beasts, Steve had a duff sequence and Mawson crushed it. Maybe it is soft. I'm telling myself it is anyway, in the hope that it will actually make it easier.

I guess so, Unjustified's endurance though isn't it and everyone's loving that. BR has some decent rests doesn't it, so Ondra would have been fully fresh on the sections (he probably didn't need to rest though!)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 20, 2011, 12:31:54 pm
Unjustified is power endurance really, a sprint with no good rests. It's only ~30 moves after the chain of something stupid.

Bat Route is much more of a stam-fest, with a couple of really, really good rests. It's all about how well you recover really, which is not my strong point, at least.

I reckon Bat Route is probably harder than Unjustified (for me it certainly is), but it may well be quite a soft 8c.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2011, 01:28:47 pm
Caff has been on BR recently and said it was one of the hardest routes he's tried.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on May 20, 2011, 01:34:00 pm
not seen this posted, or am i being dense? he falls off, but sounds like he's trying hard. thank god.

Ondra - Overshadow RP. (http://vimeo.com/11534937)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2011, 01:44:07 pm
Was from last year
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on May 20, 2011, 01:49:33 pm
bet it was.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on May 20, 2011, 01:52:18 pm
Caff has been on BR recently and said it was one of the hardest routes he's tried.


Awesome, so not only is it soft (and I will therefore crush it), but it offers the possibility of burning off Caff.  ;)

You can't crush my psyche  :boxing:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: PATRuL on July 10, 2011, 08:35:42 am
its possible if your weaknesses are known
but if you have non then i agree
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 14, 2011, 03:10:24 pm
Another 8c+ for Ondra, this time of the Italian route The Miser (http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=it&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.planetmountain.com%2FNews%2Fshownews1.lasso%3Fl%3D1%26keyid%3D38344)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2011, 03:38:09 pm
Mere 8c+, like reporting I climbed some stairs :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 14, 2011, 04:00:09 pm
I managed to omit the fact that the report (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38345) (this ones in English rather than translated from Italian) states it was on-sight.  :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2011, 04:05:31 pm
Ok, me climbing a lot of stairs!

Amazing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: BenF on July 15, 2011, 07:40:47 am
Ok, me climbing a lot of stairs!

You climbing a lot of stairs without resting or having previous knowledge of where those stairs go or which foot to place on each step.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Robsons on July 15, 2011, 09:03:11 am
Love how this was just a stop off between Chamonix and Arco...cranker!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 15, 2011, 11:08:20 am
Delete the thread,cease the praise, he just came 17th in the world cup. What a punt
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 15, 2011, 11:21:59 am
I don't think he's that bothered with competitions (http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/climber_profiles/ondra_face_to_face_with_the_worlds_best_climber/index.html)....

Quote from: Ondrawad
There are also rumors you won’t compete in the World Cup this year. True? Well, my main target is the World Championship in summer. I might compete on some World Cup stages, but I won’t compete in the whole circuit, neither in lead nor in bouldering.

Why? I’m just motivated for rock climbing! After the last year full of competitions, I feel like I had enough and deserve some time without them.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 15, 2011, 11:23:30 am
Too much rock climbing, makes you weak. fact
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 15, 2011, 11:40:20 am
The standard at the world cup is just mind blowing. Another fact.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on July 15, 2011, 01:31:00 pm
Too much rock climbing, makes you weak. fact

He should take up yoga.......
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 15, 2011, 10:00:26 pm
He might have bailed out of the competition scene,

but then another 5.14c onsight to soothe everyones nerves...


http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight)  :smirk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on July 16, 2011, 01:34:50 am
fromm what ive seen you need too climb indoors alot for comps where as curly boy seems too just hit up the crags good lad i say
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 16, 2011, 08:35:05 am
He might have bailed out of the competition scene,

but then another 5.14c onsight to soothe everyones nerves...


http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-another-514c-onsight)  :smirk:

See a few posts up.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 16, 2011, 01:19:12 pm
How embarrassing  :oops:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dontfollowme on July 17, 2011, 01:59:23 pm
Through to the final in Arco in the bouldering.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: douglas on July 27, 2011, 04:41:28 pm
Ondra at Arco 2011: "This year I will focus on bouldering. I will travel to Rocklands and boulder areas in Europe."

Can't wait!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2011, 04:52:14 pm
South Lakes is in Europe......
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2011, 11:55:40 am
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38429 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38429)

Ondra does more hard things...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gremlin on August 08, 2011, 12:41:53 pm
Has Ondra put a bit of muscle on? He looks a bit "bulkier", almost normal!  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on August 08, 2011, 05:15:26 pm
still beaten by first round first minute sharma is the king!  :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on August 08, 2011, 06:28:30 pm
Sharma did spend a little bit of time on it before he sent though...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2011, 07:50:22 pm
sharma is the king! 

Swedish Computer based Scoring system says no.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on August 09, 2011, 05:50:50 am
8c+ second go? he must have spent the night before at the local strippers' club eh?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on August 09, 2011, 10:23:51 am
i doubt that!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on August 09, 2011, 01:33:28 pm
sharma is the king! 

Swedish Computer based Scoring system says no.

well he puts up some of the best/craziest lines out of anyone so in my book he holds high regard
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2011, 02:27:36 pm
Can't disagree on that, but on current form Ondra is climbing harder stuff in better style than Sharma ever did.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on August 09, 2011, 05:33:00 pm
I wouldn't say in better style, his hair is terrible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ziggytang on August 09, 2011, 11:02:26 pm
 :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on August 15, 2011, 12:46:17 pm
Ondra - Monkey Wedding V15 3rd ascent.

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on August 15, 2011, 01:42:37 pm
Ondra - Monkey Wedding V15 3rd ascent. (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/)

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/adam-ondra-repeats-monkey-wedding-v15-rocklands-south-africa/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+ClimbingNarc+%28ClimbingNarc.com%29&utm_content=FaceBook&ref=nf)

(You need to remove all the gumpf after the last '/' in the URL that has all of the details of where you came from before viewing the page, which appears to have been the ClimbingNarc Farcebook feed).

Also of note in the report...

Quote
After winning overall Gold at the 2011 World Championships in Arco Adam Ondra commented that he was going to spend the rest of the year focusing on bouldering

I expect there'll be plenty of hard repeats and projects falling between now and December then!  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on August 15, 2011, 01:49:58 pm
aye, should be good watching.

Although I wonder how much there is for him to do down there...bouldering does seem a bit  pointless *gasp* for him when it takes him about 10 minutes to do the hardest problems in the world - at least the hardest routes are taking a week or so.

However, if he starts putting up his own stuff down there, and sending their current projects, it really could be quite interesting.
Get him on the invisible man project!

Invisible Man Project, 8c++? (http://vimeo.com/20407523)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nemo on August 15, 2011, 06:28:17 pm
Quote
“still beaten by first round first minute” - Ducko
You must have high expectations for him if you think he’s been “beaten” after a couple of quick plays at the end of a week trip in August.  Did you expect him to onsight it?  I'm quite sure he'll be back on this at some point.

Quote
“when it takes him about 10 minutes to do the hardest problems in the world” - Baldy
Monkey Wedding took him 4 days – longer than Chilam Balam…  Then again it took Paul Robinson 10 days so it’s a flippin great effort.  Livin Large or some of the “big move” problems like Sky may be more challenging – or maybe not?  As you say – will be interesting to see how he gets on.  If everything does go easily, then I’m sure there’s still lots of great projects to get on.

Quote
“bouldering does seem a bit pointless *gasp* for him” - Baldy
Far from it.  As he’s said himself, arm strength and big campussy moves on sloping holds are his biggest weakness.  Think he’s probably avoided doing stuff like this until recently because it can cause problems and injuries for teenagers still growing.  But now he clearly knows it’s a relatively weak point.  He’s been training to improve it.  And some time spent focussing on bouldering could lead to massive rapid gains - whereas gains in things you are already great at are much harder to come by.  If he can combine Sharma or Woods’ arm and dynamic strength with his own ridiculous finger strength, technique, endurance and all round climbing ability – then I think 9c routes will be just around the corner.  And ridiculous as it sounds, if he stays psyched, I wouldn’t be at all surprised to see 10a within the decade. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: casa on September 07, 2011, 10:23:03 am
 :o
wowzer. watch this space
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: casa on September 07, 2011, 10:37:51 am
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-adam-ondra-reports-from-the-boulders-of-rocklands-south-africa?utm_source=hotwire-09022011-B&utm_medium=email&utm_content=main-promo&utm_campaign=ondra+in+rocklands (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-adam-ondra-reports-from-the-boulders-of-rocklands-south-africa?utm_source=hotwire-09022011-B&utm_medium=email&utm_content=main-promo&utm_campaign=ondra+in+rocklands)

oops..the link helps
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on September 07, 2011, 10:51:45 am
Back Diamond : Adam Ondra Reports from the boulders of Rocklands South Africa (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/bd-athlete-adam-ondra-reports-from-the-boulders-of-rocklands-south-africa)

oops..the link helps

It would wouldn't it (see here for the link syntax (http://docs.simplemachines.org/index.php?topic=57))
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on September 07, 2011, 11:25:28 pm
FA of a 9a+ and a Font8C for the lad.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chris_j_s on September 08, 2011, 02:05:22 pm
...and both on the same day. Amazing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 08, 2011, 09:39:52 pm
jeepers creepers
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: metal arms on October 04, 2011, 11:31:52 am
Apparently he's crushed Magic Wood into Neutrinos...

Practice of the wild - 8C
Dark matter - 8B+/C
Remembrance Of Things Past - 8B+

And some easy stuff - Four 8A+s and an 8A!

From the other channel - http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64366 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64366)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2011, 11:35:21 am
Neutrinos? No wonder the news travelled fast.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 04, 2011, 01:52:52 pm
i think its safe to call him one of the world's best boulderers now. He matched Woods 3 days on Practice and halved Robinson's time on Monkey Wedding
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on October 05, 2011, 12:24:32 pm
What does Ondra mean when he says he's 'basically weak'?! Who is he comparing himself to, as he's matching the feats of the world's best boulderers? Animal strong.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rehab21 on October 05, 2011, 12:37:53 pm
What does Ondra mean when he says he's 'basically weak'?! Who is he comparing himself to, as he's matching the feats of the world's best boulderers? Animal strong.

Orangutans. He reckons that orangutans are the perfect climbing animal, with a power to weight ratio that compares favourably with that of a Caterham 7 and a predictably massive ape index.

In the pub last week he was speculating that if orangutans weren't ginger or threatened with extinction that they would always be a far greater force in world bouldering than he is. Under current conditions he predicted he could overtake them within 3 - 4 seasons.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 05, 2011, 12:41:03 pm
Probably compared to how he feels he could be.

As in when assessing his abilities as a climber, technique, route reading, stamina etc are nearer to what he feels his top level than his raw power which is still way off what it could be.

Scary if you think about it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: joeisidle on October 05, 2011, 01:47:27 pm
Probably compared to how he feels he could be.

As in when assessing his abilities as a climber, technique, route reading, stamina etc are nearer to what he feels his top level than his raw power which is still way off what it could be.

Scary if you think about it.

Good point Jasper, and also it's worth bearing in mind that when he said that I don't think he'd climbed harder than 9a+ and 8B+. Now he's done multiple 9bs and is consistently doing 8Cs as quickly as anyone in the world, so maybe he'd be forced to admit that he's not quite as 'weak' as he used to be. (!)

Who knows, he might even be able to do a one armer now.....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on October 05, 2011, 03:00:59 pm
Scary if you think about it.

I wish I was as weak as he is.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on October 09, 2011, 10:26:14 pm
But what has he done on offwidth roof cracks?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on October 09, 2011, 10:43:58 pm
But what has he done on offwidth roof cracks?

Ondra climbing a crack implies the holds on the face aren't good enough for him to pull on.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 09, 2011, 11:09:46 pm
when he says hes weak he just means he cant do one armers and stuff like that but his technique, height and finger strength all make up for that lack of pure brute strength
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 24, 2011, 12:52:38 pm
Not really news but thought this was a good vid of him bouldering with a few punters.

Legends Only (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iiXB2y_ZvM#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Seb on October 24, 2011, 09:25:40 pm
It really looked like nothing there challenged him much at all. Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 24, 2011, 10:39:47 pm
Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.

He looked the most clinical, but Woods looked much stronger than the rest - just didn't have the lank for a few problems. Comps are fun, but not sure you can draw many conclusions from several wads competing to make the least mistakes on problems well below their max.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on October 24, 2011, 11:31:09 pm
yeah woods looke beasty on that last problem, very malcolm smith.. would have been nice to see the worlds strongest fight it out on some narly steep stuff not balls on string and sideways double dynos
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on October 25, 2011, 12:29:38 am
ondra's technique with wood's strength, cool video all strong as hell!
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on October 25, 2011, 07:31:12 am
Hes so far ahead of the pack, hes got to be capable of a Font 9a or a Gaskins 8c.

He looked the most clinical, but Woods looked much stronger than the rest - just didn't have the lank for a few problems. Comps are fun, but not sure you can draw many conclusions from several wads competing to make the least mistakes on problems well below their max.

They were given two hours the day before to work all the problems... No quarantine etc.. So quite different from normal comps.. An interesting format.. The competitors said they preferred it to regular format...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 25, 2011, 10:45:15 am
I know. Hence my comments.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rehab21 on October 25, 2011, 12:56:34 pm
Most impressive thing for me is that he was competing against specialists who've been training almost solely for bouldering, while he's specifically avoided that while his body matured.

What's he going to be capable of this time next year after a bit of :weakbench:?    :dance1:
Jim
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 25, 2011, 01:53:43 pm
bouldering...he's specifically avoided that while his body matured.

Why do you say that? Ondra has been bouldering hard for years, both outdoors and in training.

Quote from: Ondra, march 2010
I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city.

http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm (http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 26, 2011, 08:35:11 am
Ondra's sister climbs 8b+ (and his dad does an 8a):

http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752 (http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752)

(http://www.czechclimbing.com/fotos/fil10324.jpg)

I don't see the family resemblence myself.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rehab21 on October 26, 2011, 11:19:53 am
 :oops:

I'll check my vague rememberings next time...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: simes on November 09, 2011, 08:05:09 am
Ondra's sister climbs 8b+ (and his dad does an 8a):

http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752 (http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=9752)

(http://www.czechclimbing.com/fotos/fil10324.jpg)

I don't see the family resemblence myself.

He got the climbing talent AND the looks!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: douglas on November 14, 2011, 09:20:59 am
Did 8C+ last week:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 14, 2011, 09:42:50 am
So possibly the hardest problem in the world is an unispiring looking, shitty, polished limestone traverse?

Bravo!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on November 14, 2011, 09:50:23 am
So possibly the hardest problem in the world is an unispiring looking, shitty, polished limestone traverse Lakeland/ Lancastrian Roof?

Bravo!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 14, 2011, 10:08:47 am
Hehehe there is a certain....harmony to it all ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 14, 2011, 04:43:15 pm
adorable little boy
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on November 14, 2011, 05:48:08 pm
 :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Paul B on November 16, 2011, 06:19:35 pm
What were people saying about him and bouldering?

http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/411/news/ondras_first_v16_mccolls_first_v15/ (http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/411/news/ondras_first_v16_mccolls_first_v15/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on November 17, 2011, 03:40:22 pm
Apparently he's super close to doing Goia.  Resting today.  More attempts tomorrow. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 17, 2011, 04:27:10 pm
Incidentally you can download a free ~10minutes HD movie of Christian Core working and climbing this from iClimb (http://www.iclimb.com/products/The-Real-Core.html)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 17, 2011, 04:49:31 pm
I think we have a clear verdict - he is quite good at bouldering.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 18, 2011, 08:45:57 am
Apparently he's super close to doing Goia.  Resting today.  More attempts tomorrow.

Be very interesting to see what grade he thinks this is.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 18, 2011, 10:36:08 am
he's already written in his 8a.nu scorecard that it's surely 8c+. he had done the stand start.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 18, 2011, 10:48:21 am
Oh yeah:

Quote from:  Sue Pollard on 8a.nu
15 mins, possibly 8A+ as Chris thought, sit is another level, 8C+ for sure
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 21, 2011, 01:56:50 pm
any news?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 06, 2011, 03:53:04 pm
any news?

Sounds as though he's now repeated Gioia (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38874).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 06, 2011, 04:15:39 pm
And confirmed it as 8C+ by the sound of things.

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/12/gioia-v16-repeated-confirmed-by-adam-ondra/ (http://climbingnarc.com/2011/12/gioia-v16-repeated-confirmed-by-adam-ondra/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 06, 2011, 04:16:04 pm
That sounds about right.  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 07, 2011, 06:13:32 am
dammit I'll only have the third ascent now. great effort and amazing inspiration by the Italian johnny g Christian c!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 07, 2011, 07:55:36 am
I was somehow confusing this with Tonino 78 at Meschia - was that ever repeated in its entirety?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 07, 2011, 08:37:51 am
Yes julien nadiras and antoine vandepute (sp) did it I think
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chris05 on December 07, 2011, 12:26:19 pm
Short interview here: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38876 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38876)

Apparently gioia took him 11 days and he could only manage one proper go a day..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ShortRound on December 07, 2011, 12:54:14 pm

Apparently gioia took him 11 days and he could only manage one proper go a day..

Punter.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on December 07, 2011, 01:15:54 pm
Quote
What's next?
Well, first I'm off to do some bouldering in Fontainebleau


 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 07, 2011, 04:13:12 pm
Adam Ondra Gioia 8c+ Varazze.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8YOj33U1Bg#ws)

/via Stubbs
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 07, 2011, 05:24:59 pm
That gives me wood.  It's crazy that it's only 8 moves but he could only have 1 go a day. pretty intense then! Nice to see Core there to see his problem getting repeated!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baron on December 07, 2011, 07:02:47 pm
Holy shit
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 07, 2011, 07:39:34 pm
Quote
Apparently gioia took him 11 days and he could only manage one proper go a day..

 :o  Must be pretty hard then.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ethan on December 07, 2011, 08:36:55 pm
Some good pics here http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+ (http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 08, 2011, 08:06:14 pm
from 8a:
"Directely after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where he during the first two days have flashed La Merveille, 8A+ and Fata Morgana, 8A. Further more he made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B."

no comment.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on December 08, 2011, 08:22:19 pm
Some good pics here http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+ (http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9880&nazev=adam_ondra_-_gioia_8c+)

The 5th pic down you can see the holds hes about to match on :)  I think this must be the worst hold of all time he refers to in his interview.  It looks another level.  Respect to Core too!
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on December 08, 2011, 08:43:58 pm
from 8a:
"Directely after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where he during the first two days have flashed La Merveille, 8A+ and Fata Morgana, 8A. Further more he made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B."

no comment.

Willackers fb'd he'd done la Merveille a couple of days ago, wonder if he bumped into him (waddage to Will - lankster) ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on December 08, 2011, 10:14:06 pm
from 8a:
"Directely after having done Gioia, Adam Ondra travelled to Fontainebleau where he during the first two days have flashed La Merveille, 8A+ and Fata Morgana, 8A. Further more he made quick work of Sideway Daze, 8B and Satan i Helvete, 8B."

no comment.

Willackers fb'd he'd done la Merveille a couple of days ago, wonder if he bumped into him (waddage to Will - lankster) ;)

Doesn't sound like Ondra was there for long!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on December 09, 2011, 03:28:09 pm
He turns up in the forest, flashes Mervaille then downgrades it! The swine! I would have loved to have seen him flash it, it's such an amazing line!

His tick list from his first day in the forest is mental!  :jaw:  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 11, 2011, 12:24:57 pm
Adam Ondra flashes Gecko Assis (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/adam-ondra-flashes-gecko-assis-8b)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on December 11, 2011, 01:03:44 pm
His tick list from his first day in the forest is mental!  :jaw:  :bow:
Adam Ondra flashes Gecko Assis (http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/adam-ondra-flashes-gecko-assis-8b)

Also did Keops Assis (8b+) and L'Apparemment en départ bas (8b) yesterday it seems.  All a bit ridiculous, it'll be interesting to see what he does on the routing front next year now that he's not quite so weak!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 11, 2011, 05:10:41 pm
that's absolutely ridiculous. not only for the grade, but also for the style of the climbing, the subtlety and precision required, and all the rest. it's no line of crimps on a blank wall, it's THE FUCKING GECK!!!!!!!
 :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 11, 2011, 06:01:40 pm
Things are getting silly now. Words don't really do it justice.Who says he doesn't know what 8c+ is. Nuts!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on December 11, 2011, 07:33:33 pm
I live in fear of Ondra getting properly mad and crimping something so damn hard he creates a singularity.   If those chaps at CERN were really serious about atom smashing they'd just fasten their targets to a nasty piece of polished limestone. 

The dirt under his fingernails: orphaned Higg's bosons. 

Those neutrinos that went faster than light: they were running away from Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 11, 2011, 08:14:36 pm
Crikey.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Andy F on December 11, 2011, 08:21:08 pm
Ondra - the Chuck Norris of the climbing world.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 11, 2011, 09:50:49 pm
Puts Gioia totally into perspective as well. 11 days for Ondra to repeat it, then he goes up to Font walks up all sorts of hard stuff.

Must be the first repeat where Ondra was unsure of the outcome, awesome effort from Gore :bow:

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: AB on December 11, 2011, 10:02:40 pm
When Ondra does a pull up it's the worlds which goes down...  :sorry: couldn't resist!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 12, 2011, 09:04:16 am
Mind blowing.

awesome effort from Gore :bow:


Chris?  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 12, 2011, 09:49:24 am
Jerry?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on December 12, 2011, 11:11:52 am
Al.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 12, 2011, 11:28:48 am
Vidal?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 12, 2011, 11:47:04 am
Sassoon?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 12, 2011, 11:47:48 am
don Bennett?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: metal arms on December 12, 2011, 01:09:29 pm
blimey Guv'nor?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on December 13, 2011, 08:38:20 am
Gecko assis

(not sure that the image linking will work - dismaying pics and french article are here: http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=2325 (http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=2325))

(http://www.kairn.com/images/articles.img?id=7384)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 13, 2011, 09:14:55 am
the article is shocking.
we are witnessing something historical with Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave k on December 13, 2011, 10:15:47 am
the article is shocking.
we are witnessing something historical with Ondra.

I got that impression, but my French is virtually non existant.

I got 8B+ FLASH of gecko assis!!

Did he fail on Duel? (Surely not)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 13, 2011, 10:26:41 am
I got that impression, but my French is virtually non existant.

Try this (http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=fr&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kairn.com%2Farticle.html%3Fid%3D2325).  Its not perfect but certainly better than I could have done.

In future just go to http://translate.google.co.uk/ (http://translate.google.co.uk/) and paste in the address of the page you want to translate, select appropriate languages and hey presto.



I got 8B+ FLASH of gecko assis!!

Did he fail on Duel? (Surely not)

Looks like he didn't do Duel, but tally up what he'd done earlier in the day, and the fact that it was getting dark and he you might not be so surprised (although perhaps there is a hint of sarcasm in your post?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on December 13, 2011, 11:07:34 am
This is getting ri-goddamn-diculous!

I am excited for when Ondra runs out of hard stuff to repeat and projects his own lines a bit more. That really will push the boundaries of the possible.

My favourite line from the translation:

"As any climber obtuse, I think back to the previous day where I could free myself. The balls."

Compelling stuff ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: metal arms on December 13, 2011, 11:33:34 am
He's a monster :strongbench:


My favourite line from the translation:

"As any climber obtuse, I think back to the previous day where I could free myself. The balls."

Compelling stuff ;)

I'm having that as my signature ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on December 13, 2011, 12:51:53 pm
I am excited for when Ondra runs out of hard stuff to repeat

I don't think you'll have to wait long
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 13, 2011, 01:22:54 pm
He's proposed 8B for Gecko Assis on 8a.nu........  :worms:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 13, 2011, 02:33:47 pm
"Did he fail on Duel? (Surely not)"

Possibly because (quotes from throughout the article and not just regarding Duel):

 « Beaux quartiers » 2 goes Meme avec une sale bruine qui se lève en arrivant à Isatis.

Even with the horrendous mist which came down as we arrived at Isatis

« L’insoutenable légèreté de l’être » failed flash Les conditions sont atrocement humides. Le réta, très sale, est infaisable. Il abandonnera peu de temps après. Il commence à faire un temps pas génial.

The conditions are atrociously damp. The ??, very dirty and infeasible. He gave up soon afterwards as the weather was beginning to become very unpleasant.

<Karma> gave up after several attempts (didnt want to damage the finishing hold) Marchons encore dans l’humidité. Quelques hectomètres plus loin, au sommet de la butte de Cuisinière, ça ne s’est pas vraiment calmé. Je n’ai jamais vu le bloc de « Karma » aussi vert. Les premiers essais du tchèque serviront à sécher le grès qui est en train de se gorger d’eau.

Walking on in the wet to the summit of the butte de cuisiniere, things had not improved. I have never seen the boulder of Karma greener. His first attemps only served to dry the rock which was dripping with water.


 <Misécorde> En vain, après 2 essais, les prises de départ sont complètement gluantes. Ingrimpable malgré le brossage

Failure. After 2 tries the starting holds are totally soaking and unclimbable despite brushing.

<Duel> Après un gros quart d’heure d’essais acharnés, les grattons du crux sont humides et Adam se résout à l’évidence. Le bloc n’est pas à conditions et il fait nuit.

Adam accepted the inevitable after 15 mins of failed attempts. The holds on the crux are wet, the boulder is not in condition and it is dark.

How he managed anything on such a shitty day is pretty impressive, let alone a 8b+ flash  :o Give him his due though, he's keen.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ali k on December 13, 2011, 03:23:11 pm
F8c+ onsight...check.
font8b+ flash...check.

All set for the flash on Biographie this summer then!  :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 13, 2011, 05:18:08 pm
I like the way he did Beaux Quartiers first go after Gecko but didn't claim the flash on that. Others i can think of would have taken that
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 13, 2011, 05:23:56 pm
He's proposed 8B for Gecko Assis on 8a.nu........  :worms:

Maybe Dave Barrans was right all along!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 13, 2011, 05:54:32 pm
Ondra claims Karma on his 8a...
in the wet
nice surprise, thanks to that google translation
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 13, 2011, 06:12:44 pm
Reread the bit about karma, it was the sit start he didn't manage.  :smartass: :sorry:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Palomides on December 15, 2011, 01:08:10 pm

« L’insoutenable légèreté de l’être » failed flash Les conditions sont atrocement humides. Le réta, très sale, est infaisable. Il abandonnera peu de temps après. Il commence à faire un temps pas génial.

The conditions are atrociously damp. The ??, very dirty and infeasible. He gave up soon afterwards as the weather was beginning to become very unpleasant.


"réta" is short for rétablissement, and usually means mantle (but can sometimes mean a topout or turning the lip of a roof).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeh on December 18, 2011, 10:56:43 am
Alexander Huber about Adam Ondra (http://vimeo.com/33704646)

So, The Wizard's Apprentice. Soon.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 18, 2011, 07:28:30 pm
I wish they'd hurry up about it, was hoping to watch it over Christmas to spare myself from Xmas TV dross. They've been on about releasing the film for ages. I assumed the delay was because Ondra keeps doing ground breaking ascents that have to be included.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on December 18, 2011, 08:00:47 pm
So, The Wizard's Apprentice. Soon.

He's finally embracing his Hogwarts identity then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 19, 2011, 09:58:05 am
Episode 2 is going to be called The Maplins Years.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 19, 2011, 09:49:05 pm
obviously ondra's a machine but when he says gecko assis is 8b and karma is 8a etc etc, these problems have been around years and have seen quite a few repeats. enough to have the grade confirmed by other guys at the top of their game, obviously ondra's is the big top but i digress. apart from that inconsequential matter the guy is absolutely fucking unbelievable.
hubers eye's are scary. he's a monster while we're at it
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 19, 2011, 09:51:13 pm
I think Dave Mason called Karma 8a too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 19, 2011, 10:09:51 pm
yeh nice one, tall guy with gangly arms thinks a long moves easy.

back to ondrawad :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 20, 2011, 05:13:35 pm
yeh nice one, tall guy with gangly arms thinks a long moves easy.

back to ondrawad :chair:

 i thought you were talking about Ondrawad
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 21, 2011, 12:14:40 pm
Now't new, but a video about his ascent of Tough Enough in Madagascar

People_Adam Ondra e Pietro Dal Pra in Madagascar, 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-Dj1I7f6js#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 02, 2012, 09:38:33 am
Was hunting around for the Ondra film, which is due to be released today (where's the not holding my breath emicon?) and stumbled upon this:

Adam Ondra climbing @ Kalymnos - episode 1 (Part 1 of "Impossible" LOVE ? ;-) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGsGKsaS2E8#ws)

I'm sure it must have been posted up before but I missed it so I thought I'd stick it up again. There are 9 episodes of Ondra onsighting 8bs like he's warming up and an onsight of an 8c+.

Merry 2012 and all that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 05, 2012, 10:35:54 am
Interview (http://stockholmsklattring.se/intervjuer/adam-ondra/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 12, 2012, 01:45:37 pm
The routes he's not done...yet (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39015)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 12, 2012, 01:47:47 pm
Ondra's list is a fair bit shorter then mine... And still to make it seem longer he had to include a 9a he failed to flash...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 12, 2012, 02:10:09 pm
Quote
I didn't do one move, a match of the underclings where Scottish climber Malcolm Smith could even chalk up for the camera of Heinz Zak! A year later, early one morning on the last day of my England trip, I tried hard and could indeed feel a significant difference thanks to some time spent on the campus board, but despite being close I failed. Strong Britons!

 ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 12, 2012, 03:06:40 pm
Good list. I too have failed to climb all of those!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on January 12, 2012, 03:11:45 pm
I like to think I am halfway towards the flash on most of those by virtue of having watched the videos.

That's how it works, right?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 12, 2012, 11:17:14 pm
The Wizard's Apprentice is finally available. Been waiting for this for a while:

http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news)

Now whether to watch it now in 720P then get the HD version in a weeks time or hold out to watch it in HD  :-\

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 13, 2012, 12:10:10 am
The Wizard's Apprentice is finally available. Been waiting for this for a while:

http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news)

Now whether to watch it now in 720P then get the HD version in a weeks time or hold out to watch it in HD  :-\

I get a malware detection going through to pay using Opera-11.60.1185 , but it does redirect to a 'PayPal .com' site:-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 14, 2012, 12:34:32 pm
The Wizard's Apprentice is finally available. Been waiting for this for a while:

http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news)

Now whether to watch it now in 720P then get the HD version in a weeks time or hold out to watch it in HD  :-\

I get a malware detection going through to pay using Opera-11.60.1185 , but it does redirect to a 'PayPal .com' site:-\

Worry ye not, paid my money, got the film and can conifirm that it's proper bo, got me psyched to the tits.

I would recommend using a down load manager such as  freedownloadmanager (http://www.freedownloadmanager.org/download.htm) when downloading as it hangs a bit when using normal browsers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 14, 2012, 06:18:47 pm
Cool, good to hear,  :2thumbsup:

(Let us know if you get any untoward transactions though).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 15, 2012, 10:49:04 am
Great film!  Golpe de Estado looks difficult.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 18, 2012, 07:30:40 am
Video #1: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35171521)

Rock & Ice Review (http://rockandice.com/news/1775-adam-ondras-tantrums)

Have to say if its accurate that so much is already available on t'net its rather disappointing, and already agree with the sentiment that its rather crap missing out the last year (although thats likely deliberate and will see the release of 'Vol 2').
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 18, 2012, 08:03:18 am
The film in one sentence: "We follow young Adam Ondra as he is trying to break in to the 9b grade". 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on January 18, 2012, 08:21:42 am
 
The film in one sentence: "We follow young Adam Ondra as he is trying to break in to the 9b grade". 

Yup. That was more rant than review, there is truth there but it's way over the top. 75% is a gross exaggeration. Maybe my Ondra stalking allopathy up to scratch but what I had seen didn't detract from the film, and the significant moments were all new to me.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 18, 2012, 08:24:10 am
Jamie Emerson managed to work up the energy (hardly surprising) to answer the R&I review/rant
http://www.b3bouldering.com/2012/01/18/adam-ondra-movie/ (http://www.b3bouldering.com/2012/01/18/adam-ondra-movie/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on January 18, 2012, 08:58:32 am
stalking allopathy up to scratch

My phone is too clever for me, no idea how it came up with allopathy. That should be "stalking skills aren't up to scratch"

The Emerson review is more like it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 18, 2012, 09:06:57 am
Video #1: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France

2:25 - he slips off and thus fails to flash L'Angle Allain LHS

....I flashed L'Angle Allain LHS, in the hot sun!

I've burnt Adam Ondra off  :w00t:

Edit okay the same applies to Marie Rose. But that's gash and worth falling off.

Nice video. I like his vibe and the footage of the hard problems. I winched with frustration when he came off Sideways Daze!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: hobblingfool on January 18, 2012, 09:19:44 am
The Rock and Ice review is utter crap. I agree it would have been nice to have the film sooner but the second half of the review seems to be some personal attack on Ondra? The lad is 18, lives in a bit of bubble compared to most and is the best climber in the world; if that level of self belief and refusal to accept defeat means he screeches a bit then so what? Thought it was a massively inspiring film, gone straight to the top of my list. Its brilliant that we have someone pushing the levels of what is possible and can witness it. Especially as he seems like a really nice lad.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 18, 2012, 09:34:29 am
 :agree:

The rock and ice chap seems to be lusting after a Ondra does King Lines type thing. I'm very glad it isn't anything like that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ShortRound on January 18, 2012, 09:38:28 am

Pathetic review from Rock and Ice. What made it funny was his complete lack of awareness of the harry potter - wizard's apprentice link because he kept banging on about it reinforcing the fact he missed the reference.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 18, 2012, 10:00:41 am
Not interested in the crap about tantrums/failing to get wizard reference but the point that a fair proportion (even if not the stated 70%) has already appeared online and the huge delay and missing out of the last years activity is certainly a negative from my perspective, but I can't comment fully myself as I've not watched it yet.

Probably not one that will stop me buying it though (hopefully in hard copy for backup as well as HD format).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 18, 2012, 10:51:32 am
Mr Bisharat has probably access to a different internet than I have. An internet where 70% of the film was already online. (Of course, I could get the film for "free" using a torrent-site, but that's not the point the reviewer was trying to make I think?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on January 18, 2012, 12:01:46 pm
I'm psyched to see this film. I love watching Ondra's 'fits'. My mate and I saw him fall off an attempt at Chaxi Raxi last year at Oliana and have been making weird screeching noises when we fall ever since.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on January 18, 2012, 12:21:23 pm
Ondra hissy fit: the new Sharma shout?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on January 18, 2012, 01:37:06 pm
I'm only halfway through and finding it very interesting. I only recognised a couple of bits from the net, such as "beautiful Markus Bock's Heilige Graal", of which the footage in the film is only a small snippet of what was on the net a while back. Didn't bother me at all. I like the attempt to make a storyline out of it and not just a series of shots of a lanky kid pulling on small holds and screaming.

The screaming didn't bother me either. Any amount of screaming is better than saying "take" like I do at the slightest hint of fear or lactic acid.

(I tried to resist taking the piss out of Czech filmmaker's English but I couldn't: "beautiful Markus Bock"? Hmm. Not to my taste at all (http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/two-9a--waiting-for-brno))
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 18, 2012, 04:29:22 pm
That's genius, only in Font would it be possible to fall off a 6a then flash a 8b+  ;D ;D ;D
Only watched half the Ondra film, a lot of it may be online but i like seeing Ondra in full seige mode like on Marina Superstar and you don't get this in short online vids.  It's nice to see him going through the redpoint stress that we all get. That route is immense too!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 18, 2012, 04:54:53 pm
R & I review bizzarely scathing. Probably to generate more hits
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Tiresias on January 19, 2012, 11:27:37 am
Am I missing something? That R+I review is hilarious!
 :wall:

Haven't had a chance to see it yet as I went out climbing this week instead of going to work.

Can't wait though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 19, 2012, 11:41:57 am
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ShortRound on January 19, 2012, 11:59:47 am
 :shrug: I thought it was because he looks like Harry Potter?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 19, 2012, 12:13:19 pm
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?

Showing your age there......  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on January 19, 2012, 12:15:49 pm
Am I missing something? That R+I review is hilarious!
 :wall:

Yeah, Rock and Ice's truly crap website organisation makes it really hard to tell, but the article is from the 'Tuesday Night Bouldering' (http://rockandice.com/articles/tuesday-night-bouldering) column: more editorial opinion piece rather than serious review.

I finally got a replacement lamp for my projector this week so a screening of the Ondra film is a top priority for the weekend. God knows what my neighbours will think is going on...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 19, 2012, 12:30:37 pm
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?

Showing your age there......  ;)

Isnt it a reference to Cagney and Lacey? ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 19, 2012, 01:46:45 pm
I don't get the Sorceror's Apprentice reference. Are there lots of brooms and buckets?

Showing your age there......  ;)

What? Isn't it a reference to Goethe's “Der Zauberlehrling?”
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 19, 2012, 01:54:59 pm
Goethe,  Paul Dukas and Walt Disney (don't you love Google?). But what has a callow youth over-reaching himself and needing an adult to the rescue got to do with Ondra? He IS the sorceror, surely?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 19, 2012, 02:55:34 pm
As Short Round said it's because of his resemblence to Su Pollard (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg204386.html#msg204386) Harry Potter.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 19, 2012, 03:24:54 pm
As Short Round said it's because of his resemblence to Su Pollard (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg204386.html#msg204386) Harry Potter.

yes, but who is Harry Potter? ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2012, 03:49:12 pm
That kid who looks like Daniel Radcliffe.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 19, 2012, 10:22:02 pm
wish i could get Ondras screeching as a ring tone!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 20, 2012, 09:13:23 am
wish i could get Ondras screeching as a ring tone!

1. Copy some Ondra audio to your phone (or use a sound recorder to record it from a video clip).
2. Get an app not dissimilar to ring tone maker pro.
3. Cut the audio file up to your tastes and you're done.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jim on January 20, 2012, 09:20:10 am
 :slap:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2012, 09:22:28 am
Not everyone has phones that feature apps though.  :slap:

Alternatively you could use Audacity (http://audacity.sourceforge.net/) to record the audio from the video and chop it up, then copy to your phone if it permits and set it as the ring tone.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 20, 2012, 09:26:52 am
Not everyone has phones that feature apps though.  :slap:


WHAT!!!?? It's 2012 for fuck's sake!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 20, 2012, 10:52:51 am
I have a phone with a numeric keypad :D. I use it to phone people and sent texts.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 20, 2012, 10:58:56 am
Yeah fair enough Fiend. Must be a bastard to carry around though.

(http://www.bitterwallet.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/old_mobile_phones_001.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on January 20, 2012, 11:01:54 am
I have a phone with a numeric keypad :D. I use it to phone people and sent texts.

Do you text in binary?
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 20, 2012, 01:56:23 pm
01001001 01100110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011 01100101 01100100 00100000 01101111 01110101 01110100 00100000 01110111 01101000 01100001 01110100 00100000 01110100 01101000 01101001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01111001 01110011 00100000 01110100 01101000 01100101 01101110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100111 01110010 01100101 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01100100 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01101101 01100101 00100001 00100000 00111010 00101001
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 20, 2012, 02:10:09 pm
01001001 01100110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011 01100101 01100100 00100000 01101111 01110101 01110100 00100000 01110111 01101000 01100001 01110100 00100000 01110100 01101000 01101001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01111001 01110011 00100000 01110100 01101000 01100101 01101110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100111 01110010 01100101 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01110011 01100001 01100100 00100000 01100001 01110011 00100000 01101101 01100101 00100001 00100000 00111010 00101001

I'm as sad as you  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on January 20, 2012, 02:33:36 pm
I am not as sad as you, I just know about ASCII conversion   :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 24, 2012, 09:24:37 am
Hot Shot Part Deux....

Video #2: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35329118)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 24, 2012, 10:58:45 am
Great. Bring on Gecko flash!  :w00t: :w00t:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 24, 2012, 11:01:55 am
The Gecko Assis flash is on another clip posted somewhere on here that I don't have time to look for at the moment......

slackers?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 24, 2012, 11:13:24 am
Too busy (don't remember seeing it myself either), probably be in part 3 from Black Diamond I'd imagine.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 30, 2012, 05:26:02 pm
Video #3: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35330426)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nick B on January 30, 2012, 05:34:03 pm
Now THAT is quality. Enjoyed that video far more than the movie.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 30, 2012, 07:00:27 pm
Thats superb. Gripping... he really really gave it some beans on that move... :) Superb.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on January 30, 2012, 07:40:37 pm

Just amazing  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 30, 2012, 08:04:23 pm
Awesome.....truly deserving of waddage!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 30, 2012, 08:54:40 pm
it doesn't get much better than that does it?
Ondra is fantastic, because he screams, he laughs, he crushes. I don't know what is more rewarding in the video: the flash in itself or how happy he is.
seeing him so happy on top is what really psyches me up!!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 30, 2012, 08:59:52 pm
it doesn't get much better than that does it?
Ondra is fantastic, because he screams, he laughs, he crushes. I don't know what is more rewarding in the video: the flash in itself or how happy he is.
seeing him so happy on top is what really psyches me up!!!

I love it how he does the hard move (I guess) gets the hold on the lip and then does what we all do - think its all over then has to pull himself to gether to get the last couple of moves... Its great that he's so natural...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on January 30, 2012, 10:10:10 pm
Bloody amazing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2012, 08:57:48 am
 :o

From the Black Diamond Journal (http://)...

Quote from: Adam Ondra
After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops Assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La Pierre Philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.

 One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).

 The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.

 Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.

 The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.

 Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited.

Quote
After restday, we woke up into still and foggy conditions, but it was obvious that the fog must diminish soon and the sun will show up on the sky. Warm up in Bas Cuvier was an incredible joy, doing the first 6A (Marie Rose) and 7A (Joker) in a sunny morning was a true pleasure. Kheops Assis was ticked off in a couple of tries. I went to L'Apparemment low start, an 8B in Apremont sector. This is truly incredible problem with insane typical-Font topoput. I had some problems, especially wet footholds at the beginning, but after an hour it was done. Just next to it, there was one more 8B, La Pierre Philosophale by Fred Nicole. A roof with hard fingerlocks, it was too much for the end of the day, Jacky was true claiming that this is one of the hardest roofs in Font.

 One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).

 The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.

 Concrening the grade I am not very sure, I would love to claim that I flashed an 8B+, but I am awkward to admit that I could climb that well. Considering the effort and how (not) fresh I felt, I can't agree with 8B+, at least for my height. Or was I really in such a good shape, especially when all the other repetitions had confirmed the grade of 8B+? I wish I were, but my own subjective feeling tells me something else.

 The rest of the day we spent in Cuisiniere, where I had to climb Karma, the world-famous 8A. And despite humidity, mission completed. Duel, another famous 8A, seemed like an ideal end of the year, but I had to admit defeat in that humidity. Doesn't matter, the year 2011 was successful enough to make me feel satisfied and this trip will be definitely immense source of motivation for the next year.

 Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Plattsy on January 31, 2012, 09:10:37 am
Waddage to Ondra and punterage to Slackline.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on January 31, 2012, 09:32:44 am
Christ that boy's good.  I've long been reconciled with being shit because I lack any natural talent; there's the comfort that there's not much I can do about it.  But then I see Ondra climb and realise that I don't try hard enough either, and there's no real excuse for that. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 31, 2012, 09:41:07 am
I agree completely. He gives it all, and that's great and an example for us all.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2012, 10:34:09 am
 :oops: Got a bit carried away there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2012, 11:59:34 am
Quote
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day

Good to know he has some of the same hassles as the rest of us too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 31, 2012, 12:29:28 pm
With such a display of power, class and focus, all they are capable of doing on 8a is arguing if it was a real flash, because he touched the holds. Sad People.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2012, 12:41:52 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2012, 12:45:14 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2012, 12:48:32 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 31, 2012, 12:50:18 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
Yeah! The Skype interviews were really nice, to see someone who despite all the big numbers is just excited about doing good bouldering. I like that almost as much as your double quote, but not quite.

Moose, trying hard is a good point.....but it can happen at any level!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 31, 2012, 01:33:32 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.

Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?

:) nope, but theres a market ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 31, 2012, 04:52:07 pm
I liked the sheer fun & enjoyment he showed in all three videos of how much he liked Fontainebleau.
:) nope, but theres a market ;)
Quote from: Jaspersharpe
Ondra, Ondra, so good Slackers quoted it twice...   ;)

Don't be ridiculous, it's easy.


I wonder if there is a book for dummies on how to quote on BBforums?

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on February 04, 2012, 11:53:21 am
Stevie H just posted an interview (http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2012/02/prince-who-would-be-king-story-by.html) on his blog (but says it's a repost of a magazine article from last year, so apologies if everybody else has already seen it)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on February 04, 2012, 12:38:00 pm
Video #3: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France (http://vimeo.com/35330426)

anyone know the name of the song thats on when hes climbing actually? there is a tracklist at the bottom but that song doesnt seem to be in there...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 06, 2012, 01:25:10 pm
Old now, and I've probably already seen it & forgotten, but Ondra at Raven Tor on Revelations and Chimes of Freedom

Climax.tv spotlight on Adam Ondra at Raven Tor (http://vimeo.com/13384269)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on March 12, 2012, 07:11:47 am
New interview up on Peter Beal's blog (http://www.mountainsandwater.com/2012/03/interview-with-adam-ondra.html)


Quote
What is so nice about climbing is that you don't have to be necessarily the strongest to climb the best. You can always find tons of climbers who are physically able to climb really hard, but don't climb efficiently.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 12, 2012, 10:13:05 am
Nice interview, nice to see his passion coming across.

Not sure that video is the most interesting of Adam, though. I still think the 3 from Fontainbleau are the most awesome.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 23, 2012, 04:42:25 pm
9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course
To tu ještě nebylo XIa AF Adam Ondra - Dolní Žleb (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on March 23, 2012, 06:31:56 pm
That's a bit mad.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chris_j_s on March 24, 2012, 11:03:11 am
This one shows the successful redpoint.

Adam Ondra climb, To tu je&scaron;tě nebylo XIIb, Labské údolí. (http://vimeo.com/38816685)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ghisino on March 24, 2012, 01:45:00 pm
9a on Czech sandstone in the Elbe valley. Bolted ground up of course
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xmgq8x)

on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on March 24, 2012, 07:29:02 pm
a cheat stone... really?!?!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on March 24, 2012, 09:35:19 pm
on one side it's really cool, on the other it makes me curious about the local bolting ethics and usual drilling systems (ie if it is usual to drill two small "aid bolts" to get a secure stance before going for the big one).

Never climbed in the area, but from what I recall reading about it yes, that's the normal technique.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on March 25, 2012, 12:28:24 am
a cheat stone... really?!?!

It's hardly a pile is it? look how boulder strewn the floor is.
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 25, 2012, 08:30:13 am


On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   :w00t:

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on March 25, 2012, 06:18:38 pm
I believe the initial small bolt has to be placed 100% on lead without skyhooks etc

Ever tried a skyhook on sandstone? I have. It cut straight through and dumped me on my arse (fortunately I was trying it out at ground level before embarking on the actual nefarious plan)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on March 25, 2012, 08:09:07 pm


On a totally unrelated topic, I was climbing with a Czech guy on Friday who comes from Brno, Ondra's home town. He had a pair of Miura's that he claimed (plausibly) were Ondra's cast-offs. I put my feet in them briefly. The next day I sent a very long standing local project, possible also a new grade level for me. Magic ...   :w00t:

Were they Ruby Red?

And did you click your heels and say "There's no grade like 9a, there's no grade like 9a"...
Nice. Had to google that.

Yeah right.

There's no shame in being a friend of Dorothy
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: robertostallioni on March 25, 2012, 08:13:23 pm
Quote
We're not in Kalymnos anymore, Toto
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 28, 2012, 01:52:12 pm
I also recall that there are some bizarre and scary additional rules: first bolt has to be at 10m, bolts have to be spaced 4m ... something like that (I forget the exact detail).

Its a short 10m if so....

(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/11270.jpg)

From a report from Adam on Planetmountain.com (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39344) which has more details on the route which was originally bolted on abseil by a German ignoring the local ethics.  These bolts were chopped and new ones placed ground-up.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 28, 2012, 02:25:44 pm
So this is the famous Czech ethics to protect the rock??  :unsure: :???: :-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 28, 2012, 02:27:25 pm
It works quite well, at least north of the border. Go there and see for yourself.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 28, 2012, 02:41:35 pm
This one shows the successful redpoint.
Adam Ondra climb, To tu je&scaron;tě nebylo XIIb, Labské údolí.
At 6 minutes....after a load of edit-out-able attempts! Pity they didn't have a cameraman in the tree as the climbing you can see looks cool.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on April 08, 2012, 08:36:02 am
Ondra did the 2nd ascent of Moroni's 8c+ "bella regis", on sight s'il vous plait.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on April 08, 2012, 01:30:58 pm
not enough can be said for just how good he is. his ability to read the rock of something so hard whilst on-sighting is incredible. :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on April 10, 2012, 07:41:30 pm
He has just onsighted El Frutto del Diavolo, Gabri Moroni's Italian 8c+ FA
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on April 10, 2012, 07:58:27 pm
From http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/adam-ondra--at-bus-de-vela-update (http://www.up-climbing.com/en/news/rock/adam-ondra--at-bus-de-vela-update)
about El Frutto del Diavolo: "Unfortunately for Adam, his foot slipped and the onsight attempt failed."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on April 10, 2012, 08:36:25 pm
Oops, jumped the gun!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 10, 2012, 09:37:20 pm
Can't win em all...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on April 11, 2012, 06:16:47 am
You start with a foot slip on an 8c+ onsight, and before you realize it, your career is over. Happened to me also. True story.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 11, 2012, 10:26:31 am
Punter!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on April 19, 2012, 07:02:45 am
Good article by Ondra about his trip to Bus de Vela in Italy on PlanetMountain.com. 
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39433&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39433&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook)

About his onsighting abilities: "During this trip I tried two 8c's and did both of them, but I certainly can't state that I can do all 8c's on-sight. In general though, if a route is long and without extremely tricky sequences, then the chances are quite high that I'll succeed."

 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 19, 2012, 10:06:51 am
Onsighting 7 routes at a grade surely suggests you've got it in you to go a grade higher. Lets just hope he saves a few suitable 9as.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 25, 2012, 01:31:37 pm
9a onsight at Oliana! (well if it wasn't for some poxy moves on a 8b that he'd done before  :()
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on April 25, 2012, 04:17:14 pm
Only the most strict ethical policeman ( :wank:) would give anything less than a flash surely!?!?

He onsighted the 8c bit, and flashed the 8c+ bit, but had already been on the easy bit of the 8b... I don't really know exactly how the ethics on these sort of things go but surely they no-one would make him claim redpoint!?!? Would they?

Anyway, what a beast!!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 25, 2012, 05:30:35 pm
No way. You can't flash a route you've done sections of before
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on April 25, 2012, 06:04:21 pm
 :agree:

Ondra doesn't need any help by stretching the definitions, unlike some climbers. He's going to o/s 9a, it's just a matter of when not if.




Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 25, 2012, 06:12:58 pm
It's pretty harsh and i wouldn't know what to call it (an amazing effort probably) but these things are important especially when it's a first in the history of humanity. Anyway like Pete says he won't fall off 9a soon
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on May 15, 2012, 07:30:38 pm
on a different note:
even Daniel Woods has taken to thinking "What Would Adam Ondra Do?"

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/woods_new_514d_in_clear_creek_canyon_colorado/ (http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/woods_new_514d_in_clear_creek_canyon_colorado/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 16, 2012, 03:08:39 pm
He doesn't say that anywhere
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on May 16, 2012, 04:14:33 pm
i took the liberty to paraphrase the subtext ;)

"I had watched 'Wizard's Apprentice' the night before and saw Adam Ondra battle it out in heinous conditions," Woods says, "so this gave me inspiration to go into warrior mode and finish it off."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on May 16, 2012, 09:46:12 pm
exactly it gave him psyche, he didnt say what would ondra do.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on May 16, 2012, 09:54:51 pm
exactly it gave him psyche, he didnt say what would ondra do.
I'd imagine thast's why finbarr clarified, for the hard of thinking: PARAPHRASED the SUBTEXT

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: robertostallioni on May 16, 2012, 10:15:03 pm
Dickheads

(http://www.american-buddha.com/ahitch192k2.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 05, 2012, 09:56:37 pm
I watched him send the 'jungle boogie' project at ceuse today -  at the lefthand end of biographie sector. Awesome.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on June 08, 2012, 12:05:49 pm
9a+ apparently (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39649)

EDIT: removed image that wasn't even of the right crag!  :slap:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on June 08, 2012, 12:07:52 pm
That picture's not of the route, it's of a different crag.
When's he going for the realization flash??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2012, 12:10:09 pm
9a+ apparently (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39649)

(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/12405.jpg)

That's Orgon.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2012, 12:16:40 pm
When's he going for the realization flash??

Today. I can feel it.....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on June 08, 2012, 12:27:05 pm
That's Orgon.

  :slap: :chair: Fuck's sake. I thought it looked different to other pictures of Ceuse I'd seen...

Clearly I need to travel more. Or just start reading photo captions.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on June 08, 2012, 06:29:19 pm
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2012, 06:40:26 pm
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.

what no video steam :clown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on June 08, 2012, 07:11:40 pm
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on June 08, 2012, 07:16:17 pm
Live updates on twitter. climbing in the 21st century!

Rock and Ice ‏@rockandice
"Conditions aren't perfect,' says Ondra. "But I'm too motivated to wait!" T-minus 5 minutes... 7.08pm
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on June 08, 2012, 07:17:17 pm
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.

That report is from 9am!!! http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a (http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a)

I demand answers!  :furious:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on June 08, 2012, 07:18:45 pm
Rock&Ice is reporting that Ondra is going for the Biographie onsight/flash right now.

That report is from 9am!!! http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a (http://www.rockandice.com/news/2030-adam-ondra-about-to-attempt-a-flash-of-biographie-515a)

I demand answers!  :furious:

timestamp is wrong
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on June 08, 2012, 07:22:07 pm

timestamp is wrong


Not that kind of answer  :chair:

Something like "Yeah, he's done it and is now getting drunk" is what i'm looking for.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2012, 07:31:13 pm
He fell at last crux.
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2012, 07:32:18 pm
He fell at last crux.

And is now getting drunk ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on June 08, 2012, 07:33:02 pm
There was a bit of live commentary on facebook.... 21st century reporting
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on June 08, 2012, 07:38:03 pm
Punter...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Percy B on June 08, 2012, 08:10:19 pm
Gabri Moroni has just commented, "Ondra is a punter" (on Crackbook). Do I take this to mean that Potter has dropped it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on June 08, 2012, 08:14:15 pm
Gabri Moroni has just commented, "Ondra is a punter" (on Crackbook). Do I take this to mean that Potter has dropped it?
yes
http://www.rockandice.com/news/2031-amazing-effort-by-ondra-on-realization-flash (http://www.rockandice.com/news/2031-amazing-effort-by-ondra-on-realization-flash)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on June 08, 2012, 08:15:51 pm
See Adam's post. No live stream, but live FB updates. He got through the 8c+ bit, fell on the top crux 4/5 moves from the end - guess that means one of the 2 crux moves
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on June 08, 2012, 08:33:03 pm
While he may have missed the 9a+ flash,

Lets not completely miss the fact that he still flashed an 8c+ route to get there, and then continued up the wall a significant distance...

That's got to be at least 9a no?

(still...pathetic effort though)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ali k on June 09, 2012, 07:37:20 am
Adam you have broken my heart. Why didn't you just wait another year? Why?   :'(
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 09, 2012, 08:46:24 am
Watched this last night, weirdest scene ever at a crag with what seemed like almost every climber at ceuse watching from below Biographie sector waiting for the event to happen. Must have been massive pressure. Think everyone was just praying he didn't blow the start moves (which looked nails). Great to see, the guy's a legend.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 09, 2012, 02:59:23 pm
The original used to be regarded as hard 8c+ so not a bad effort!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: hobblingfool on June 12, 2012, 04:51:45 pm
There is an interview and some scrappy footage of his attempt here http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67185 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67185)

Always seems like a nice honest lad, would love to watch him climb in person one day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 12, 2012, 04:56:40 pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqJgwrXfKGE# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqJgwrXfKGE#)

How distracting!  Shut up and letting him get on with climbing.

From the same account Jungle Boogie

Adam ondra Jungle Boogie 9a+ Céüse (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf8pknPUVWo#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sasquatch on June 12, 2012, 05:55:11 pm
See Adam's post. No live stream, but live FB updates.

I know he's a climbing god, but to update his FB midroute.   :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 12, 2012, 06:20:00 pm
Fuck me i couldn't climb the stairs with all that pullava!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on June 13, 2012, 02:05:28 pm
whos this ali guy he looks pretty good at climbing ::)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 13, 2012, 02:06:42 pm
whos this ali guy he looks pretty good at climbing ::)

Dunno, but I think he spells it "Allez!"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on June 13, 2012, 02:20:05 pm
Presumably world cup comp climbers are used to crowds and noise from the comps and thus rather better adjusted to it that most of us.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on June 14, 2012, 09:22:18 am
Sounds to me like you are pandering to the crowd   :whistle:

If I were to try and defend them, I would ask whether a horde of completely silent onlookers would be worse.
But I'm not going to try to.

Those people are idiots. How is he meant to flash a 9a+, with some eejit on the floor pulling him out of the zone every 2 seconds with their attempt to become part of the experience.
Pah.

I found the part where he rested, then made a false start quite funny though. So I guess the crowd did have some use.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 14, 2012, 10:04:00 am
So did he redpoint it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on June 14, 2012, 10:05:46 am
No. Interview on the other channel says two more failures (I think) and then he had to leave.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 14, 2012, 10:23:53 am
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jern on June 14, 2012, 11:15:37 am
God effort anyway.

Devine!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on June 14, 2012, 01:14:51 pm
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.

bear in mind the effort he will have put in for the flash will have left him spannered for the rest of the day, then again he does do multiple hard shit in a day quite regularly
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 14, 2012, 11:16:25 pm
Here's my iphone footage of Ondra flashing Biographie 8c+ and falling on Realization. Excuse the cheesy commentary.

http://youtu.be/ps0rfypWBVU (http://youtu.be/ps0rfypWBVU)


Amazing really how long he's on there for - around 9 minutes from V11 start moves to falling off at the Realization/Biographie crux.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 14, 2012, 11:29:38 pm
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.

bear in mind the effort he will have put in for the flash will have left him spannered for the rest of the day, then again he does do multiple hard shit in a day quite regularly

The days he failed to redpoint were subsequent days.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 15, 2012, 09:35:52 am
So maybe the flash was further off than originally thought. God effort anyway.

I never succombed to the flash hype, it is 9a+! Two grades harder than he's manged first go. He'll flash 9a soon though...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 15, 2012, 09:57:56 am
God effort anyway.

Devine!

Unintentional, but apt.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on July 09, 2012, 05:03:02 pm
It's been relatively quiet the past couple of weeks. Ondra's summer holiday has started casually with a few quick repeats, a couple of new 8c/8c+ routes in Sweden (Bohuslan) and Norway (Sogndal). It seems he found dry rock and is fit...

 :jaw:

- Most difficult boulder in Norway (Blood Redemption by Magnus Midtbo, 8B+/8C) repeated: http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Buldring/Ondra-har-repetert-Blood-Redemption-8C (http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Buldring/Ondra-har-repetert-Blood-Redemption-8C)
- Eye of Odin, the new 8c+ in Flatanger onsight and a new 9a+/b as well: http://borebloggen.blogspot.nl/ (http://borebloggen.blogspot.nl/)

More to follow (if he finds dry rock up north)!

 :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 09, 2012, 06:05:53 pm
Nice he's exploring some different, cool, areas.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on July 12, 2012, 06:36:40 am
Nice he's exploring some different, cool, areas.
He's not exploring, he's only trying to find sometthing he hasn't already climbed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 12, 2012, 10:01:07 am
Needs to get back to The Tor then.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 13, 2012, 12:08:47 pm
Needs to get back to The Tor then.

He knows when he's beaten  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nai on July 13, 2012, 12:24:05 pm
Maybe he's preparing for his return by practicing somewhere even wetter than here  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 16, 2012, 10:15:57 pm
Certainly getting some practice in....

Adam Ondra climing in the Flatanger cave in Norway on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45805681)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on July 17, 2012, 12:05:06 am
Certainly getting some practice in....

Adam Ondra climing in the Flatanger cave in Norway on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45805681)


"...just need to work it more and to get a bit stronger..."




ha
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on July 25, 2012, 01:13:10 pm
If he gets any stronger he'll start ripping holds off the wall
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on October 04, 2012, 02:02:02 pm
Sounds like he's done his project at Hanshelleren Cave, Norway.  Change 9b+.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 04, 2012, 02:37:35 pm
Sounds like he's done his project

Did you hear the scream too?

Awesome stuff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 04, 2012, 05:04:10 pm
Historic
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: neilpearsons on October 04, 2012, 08:17:24 pm
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Surely this has to be up there with all the other grade-breaking routes that got so much attention when they were done, and still get attention 20 years on, like Hubble and Action Directe.
Is everyone too  :o to type?
This may prove to be the ultimate sport route for our time - hard bouldering for 55 metres. Can't wait to see the video. A fantastic effort by the best climber of his generation.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: leeroy on October 04, 2012, 09:16:35 pm
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.


Not much to add! the ascent speaks for itself!

Can't wait to see the video.

Ditto, might have to wait for the next adam ondra film....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 04, 2012, 10:28:46 pm
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.
Surely this has to be up there with all the other grade-breaking routes that got so much attention when they were done, and still get attention 20 years on, like Hubble and Action Directe.

Written six hours after news of the ascent broke on here? What's more shocking is you consider six hours of no hyperbole 'shocking'. The speed we hear about stuff these days; it makes for historic ascents becoming old news by the end of the week. Jumpers for goalposts etc..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 04, 2012, 11:21:16 pm
Cool!  Let me start the speculations.

1) If Change really is 9b+, a 9a o/s will surely follow.  Is there any easy-to-read long 9a Ondra hasn't climbed yet?

2) Ondra will soon stop this cragging nonsense and move into alpinism. Only in the mountains will there be challenges left.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on October 04, 2012, 11:44:08 pm
Ondra's freeing of Tough Enough was a pretty good foray away from "cragging". Christ knows what he could do on big walls if he, say, spent a season in Yosemite. Not sure about Alpinism though, a storm or a clumsy guide knocking a serac on top of him....noooooo!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 04, 2012, 11:48:11 pm
Is everyone too  :o to type?

What petejh said, even I'm not online 24/7.

Stunning effort, looks amazing! :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chummer on October 05, 2012, 12:13:11 am
Ditto Pete's and slacklines comments. Some of us were even out climbing!

Otherwise fucking awesome, what an incredible looking route and as for the crag, wowzers! If this is only his first major new route (as in worked proper hard at for a significant amount of time) so surely this is just the start, he can climb harder... :jaw:  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 12:15:06 am
Here's a bit of climbing geekery. A list (of course) of a few key sport climbers of the past decades - looking at the climber's age at each of their hardest two FA's.

Wolfgang Gullich, born 1960
-8c, Wall Street (Mk2), 1987, 27
-9a, Action Directe, 1991, 31

Ben Moon, born 1966
-8c, Maginot Line & Agincourt, 8c, 1989, 23
-8c+, Hubble, 1990, 24

Alexander Huber, born 1968
- 9a, Weisse Rose, 1995, 27
- 9a+ Open Air, 1996, 28

Fred Rouhling, born 1970
-Hugh, 9a, 1993, 23
-Akira, 9b, 1995, 25

Bernabe Fernandez, born 1974
-Orujo, 9a+, 1998, 24
-Chilam Balam, 9b?, 2003, 29

Chris Sharma, born 1981
-Realisation, 9a+, 2001, 20
-Jumbo Love, 9b, 2007, 26
-...

Adam Ondra, born 1993
-The Change, 9b+, 2012, 19
-...


Seems most climbers peak in mid to late twenties. Ondra has a long way to go...

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chummer on October 05, 2012, 12:18:46 am
Nice r-man
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Paul B on October 05, 2012, 12:26:43 am
Nice r-man

Good effort on the geekery but I see quite a few problems with your list, for instance your first example tragically died young. Moon; you really think he peaked on Hubble or did he just change focus somewhat (and actually climb his hardest not so many years ago)?

You'd be better of looking at the Spanish climbers, Ramonet, Patxi, Andrada etc., non?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 05, 2012, 12:38:50 am
Nice r-man

Good effort on the geekery but I see quite a few problems with your list, for instance your first example tragically died young. Moon; you really think he peaked on Hubble or did he just change focus somewhat (and actually climb his hardest not so many years ago)?

You'd be better of looking at the Spanish climbers, Ramonet, Patxi, Andrada etc., non?

Sounds like the perfect scenario for "time to event" (aka survival analysis) accounting for some right-censoring!  :geek:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 01:00:48 am
Nice r-man

Good effort on the geekery but I see quite a few problems with your list, for instance your first example tragically died young. Moon; you really think he peaked on Hubble or did he just change focus somewhat (and actually climb his hardest not so many years ago)?

You'd be better of looking at the Spanish climbers, Ramonet, Patxi, Andrada etc., non?

I was aware of those points, but people don't fit into neat boxes. The aim was a list representing climbers that broke new ground in sport climbing. Not sure the other Spanish climbers have done that, except maybe with onsighting? Andrada has done lots of hard link up things in his cave, including at least one thing graded 9b+, but his website is a nightmare to read, as well as being in Spanish. Also, it was never big news, so I assume it's not generally regarded as "proper" sport climbing?

As far as problems with the list - I think it just shows that shit happens. Moon clearly shifted focus and Gullich had a tragic death - but despite this, they still made significant contributions to the sport. We all know climbing hard (at our own relative levels) places large demands on the rest of life, and requires a bit of good fortune (good location, flexible job, understanding partner, stress-free existence) as well as determination and training. Perhaps the fact that there aren't many top climbers peaking in their 30's indicates that external factors become more pressing than the drive to climb harder.

If climbing continues to grow, maybe there will be more money available to fund the elite and keep them crushing into middle age. But even so, there's only so long anyone can be the best. At some point, the kids are just going to be too hard to keep up with.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 01:27:04 am
Requiem in 83 and Punks in the Gym in 84?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on October 05, 2012, 01:33:38 am
machine, route looks wicked
Title: Re: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 05, 2012, 07:23:06 am
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.


Not much to add! the ascent speaks for itself!

Can't wait to see the video.

Ditto, might have to wait for the next adam ondra film....
I hope not, the first one took forever.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2012, 08:00:35 am
I don't know what's more shocking - the thought of F9b+ or the lack of comment on here.

Sir Sir Sir, I know the answer to that one!!!

What a daft comment, not everyone sits at their computer all day waiting for the latest tittilation titbit of tip top ascents.

Suffice to say this is an astonishing achievement and I too would like to see the ascent. Is this the route there was a vid of him doing most of recently?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 05, 2012, 09:29:35 am


Suffice to say this is an astonishing achievement and I too would like to see the ascent. Is this the route there was a vid of him doing most of recently?

Yes, working the lower section earlier in the year....

Adam Ondra climing in the Flatanger cave in Norway on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45805681)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 12:19:51 pm
Requiem in 83 and Punks in the Gym in 84?
Good points! Though was Requiem the first at its grade ... what is its accepted grade?

Requiem gets 8a+ according to the internet. Punks is 8b/8b+.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2012, 01:08:58 pm
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.

First one on granite since then though?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on October 05, 2012, 01:24:07 pm
Good points r-man.

Ondra, wow. I have astonishment fatigue, thats why people aren't going on about it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on October 05, 2012, 01:31:35 pm
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.

First one on granite since then though?

At the risk of being horribly wrong - I thought I heard someone in the past say that Meltdown was horribly difficult, and at the time might be considered the hardest trad route? That was on granite I believe?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=864 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=864)

Quote
Beth's new route; The Meltdown is reportedly "significantly harder than the Optimist" and could be 5.14c/F8c+. This would make it one of the very hardest traditional routes in the world, alongside Rhapsody and Cobra Crack and confirms Rodden's status as one of the worlds top traditional climbers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 05, 2012, 01:39:30 pm
I have astonishment fatigue

Me too. But since we are already in the realm of the unbelievable...thinking further into the future, is Ondra going to get to 10a?

Ondra put a lot of time into The Change. Sharma took a similarly long time to do his first big route Realisation, when he was around the same age as Ondra. He needed an epic siege with Jumbo Love before he decided he was at the next level, though now he has done a few at the same grade.

So if Ondra follows this pattern, his Jumbo Love will be 9c, and seems likely in a few years, after he's done a few more 9b+'s.

It would be surprising if Sharma didn't move on from the Jumbo Love level in the next few years. Similarly, if Ondra gets comfortable at 9c in his twenties, another big siege would take him to the next level, 9c+.

But 10a?

Nevermind the numbers, what I find interesting is how and if someone so far ahead of the rest can keep progressing. If Ondra climbs the hardest routes, what has he got to test himself on? How does he know when he's just stepped up a gear? Gullich seemed to manage alright, with the first 8b, 8b+,8c and 9a.

And on another note, it will be great to see the younger kids race through Ondra's testpieces. I think it's inevitable. These aren't Gaskins esoterics, these are classy lines in awesome places.

Waffle over. The future looks exciting.

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 05, 2012, 02:08:43 pm
Me too. But since we are already in the realm of the unbelievable...thinking further into the future, is Ondra going to get to 10a?

Waffle over. The future looks exciting.

What I want to know is who is going to confirm the grade!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 05, 2012, 02:29:48 pm
All about 10a for sure  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 05, 2012, 02:43:51 pm
On another tangent of geekery, when was the last "hardest route in the world" that wasn't on limestone? Maybe Yaniro's Grand Illusion back in the 1970s; thought to have been the first 8a.

First one on granite since then though?

Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 05, 2012, 03:01:34 pm
I don't think this will get a repeat for a VERY long time!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on October 05, 2012, 03:14:08 pm
Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.

It was granite before Ondra crushed it!  *rubbish geologist joke*
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 05, 2012, 03:18:40 pm

It was granite before Ondra crushed it!  *rubbish geologist joke*

I giggled...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on October 05, 2012, 06:27:16 pm
Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.

It was granite before Ondra crushed it!  *rubbish geologist joke*

Gneiss pun!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: BenF on October 05, 2012, 06:40:37 pm
You'll get slated for that one Tom. 

Stop now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 05, 2012, 07:40:16 pm
this rock atrocity of jokes is poor i think we should get on topic ::)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: AndyR on October 05, 2012, 08:13:15 pm
Hanshelleren is gneiss, not granite.

It was granite before Ondra crushed it!  *rubbish geologist joke*

Gneiss pun!
I thought it was pretty schist...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on October 05, 2012, 08:47:38 pm
Me too. But since we are already in the realm of the unbelievable...thinking further into the future, is Ondra going to get to 10a?

Waffle over. The future looks exciting.

What I want to know is who is going to confirm the grade!

I agree on this would be good for someone to confirm its difficulty not that I doubt the lad
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nemo on October 07, 2012, 07:42:56 pm
Interesting posts r-man.  Continuing the geekery…

Quote
"Sharma took a similarly long time to do his first big route Realization" - r-man
Not sure about that - Ondra's done this in one season in around 20 days over 2 trips.  Think Realization was an epic project for Sharma – tried it for ages over many years before finally doing it.  Ondra has still never really had a properly long siege on anything.

Quote
"what I find interesting is how and if someone so far ahead of the rest can keep progressing." - r-man
In terms of redpointing Sharma’s still providing competition, which has got to help with the motivation for now at least.  To me the big questions are how close to his limits and to the limits of the sport is he getting.  My guess is that there's still a very long way to go with both, considering that he’s 19, and this is his first year of full time climbing, but who knows?  It doesn’t seem unreasonable though that he could make massive progress in the next decade and climb 10a ish if he can find the right routes.  But of course, a lot of that depends on how wide Ondra himself chooses to make 9b+, 9c etc.

Whereas in bouldering, I think the potential for future progress is much more limited, and that limit is mainly imposed by the rock.  There will undoubtedly be some, but IMO the rock suitable for large numbers of high quality Font 9As just isn’t out there…  Without hard bouldering just focussing on eliminates, I suspect the period of rapid improvements is nearly over.  But in sport climbing, the properly hard routes really are out there – high quality routes in large numbers all over the place in Spain and elsewhere.

Quote
"it will be great to see the younger kids race through Ondra's testpieces." - r-man
Maybe.  But to me, this is the other interesting question - How much of a one off is Ondra?  Is he just the first of a long line of people who started climbing at a very young age with lots of talent.  Or are we unlikely to see another Ondra for 50 years.  To me the jury's still out on this...  Clearly the likes of Enzo Oddo etc are very good climbers, but I don't really see anyone else doing quite what Ondra has done from the younger generation just yet?  A combination of his talent, height, finger strength, sheer determination etc etc may be a pretty rare thing even in the long term.  It may be that if Ondra stays psyched and fulfils his potential in the next decade that some of his testpieces aren't repeated for a very, very long time. 

Quote
“Andrada has done lots of hard link up things in his cave, including at least one thing graded 9b+” – r-man
Might be wrong on this, but think the potential 9b+ which gets mentioned in that cave (Picachu?) is still a project?  Think the hardest two lines which Andrada has actually done in there, he’s given 9b?  And don’t want to be harsh, but to be fair to Sharma / Ondra it’s perhaps worth pointing out that if you don’t count link up’s in caves, I think Dani’s hardest routes are around the 9a/9a+ mark (stuff like Definicion De Resistencia…)?  Think same is true of Magnus Midtbo?  Cave link ups / traverses always seem to be graded very optimistically – they’re so much easier to work, no fear factor, no / little rope drag, no / few clips, that for the same physical difficulty of moves, they are often much easier to actually climb.

So whilst Ondra and Sharma are moving into 9b+ territory, in terms of “proper” routes, only Sharma, Ondra and Fernandez have climbed 9b (Fernandez just with Chilam Balam.)  Things at the top end of sport climbing seem to be becoming very exclusive…

Quote
“Historic” - Doylo
Indeed.  To me at least, I think it makes things clearer to separate out the traverses / long boulders / cave link ups etc (ie: Akira and the Ali Baba Cave etc).  And when you do this, the history of sport climbing actually follows a vaguely sensible timeline…  (Similar list to r-mans but different perspective):

8c: Wall Street (1987 - Gullich), Anais Et Le Canabis (1988 - Fred Nicole), Agincourt (1989 - Moon).
8c+: Liquid Ambar (1990 - Moffatt), Hubble (1990 - Moon), Just Do It (1992 – Tribout).
9a: Action Directe (1991 – Gullich), Om (1992 – Huber), Hugh (1993 – Roughling).
9a+: Open Air (1996 – Huber), Orujo (1998 – Fernandez), Realization (2001 – Sharma).
9b: Chilam Balam (2003 – Fernandez), Jumbo Love (2008 – Sharma), Golpe D’Estado (2008 – Sharma).
9b+: Change (2012 – Ondra).

http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/from-6a-to-9b-first-ascents-in (http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/from-6a-to-9b-first-ascents-in)  - has loads more history for anyone interested in such trainspotting.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on October 07, 2012, 09:11:45 pm
Maybe.  But to me, this is the other interesting question - How much of a one off is Ondra?  Is he just the first of a long line of people who started climbing at a very young age with lots of talent.  Or are we unlikely to see another Ondra for 50 years.  To me the jury's still out on this...  Clearly the likes of Enzo Oddo etc are very good climbers, but I don't really see anyone else doing quite what Ondra has done from the younger generation just yet?  A combination of his talent, height, finger strength, sheer determination etc etc may be a pretty rare thing even in the long term.

the one glaring exception being ashima, but shes a girl so.... :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 07, 2012, 10:53:47 pm
If Liquid Ambar is sticking as 8c+ Hubble should surely be 9a.  Ondra said so didn't he and Moony said same grade as Action back in the day.  Chris Webb Parsons said this to me recently too although he has done neither route.
I think Ondra is a one off, he's just a relentless ticking machine who has absolutely everything going for him.  I think its proven by his six month bouldering stint where he basically became the best in the world ticking two 8c+s and flashing Gecko Assis!  He was only training for routes!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on October 09, 2012, 11:46:34 am
Quote from: Adam Ondra

I can't believe it – was, if my memory is right, the first words I said after clipping the anchor of this route. It is definitely the most rewarding feeling I have ever had after sending the route. I can't stop smiling, even now, typing these words. Despite the tough process of working the route, this can't be any sweeter. Not only because it is 9b+, a number which looks so strange typed on the screen.

The route can be divided into two pitches – 9a+/b (20m), nohand-rest and 9a (25m). The first pitch is bouldery – first twelve meters can be described as 8b route into 8B+ (some of the most crazy moves I have ever done) into 7B+. Above this, there is a bad kneebar, where I pull the rope down and the belayer starts belaying again. The rest of the first pitch is pretty easy. At the chains, there is a nohands rest, where you stand on good footholds in the vertical wall leaning with your head on the roof above (I did not find rest in summer).

The second pitch has a long power-endurance sequence of about 6 meters just above the first anchor, long moves, compression style and heelhooks including hard crimping as well. From here on, it is not more than 8b+, but tiring and neverending pumpfest, which offers numerous jugs to rest, but one is not able to recover there any more...

It is the route I've put the most effort into. It took me three weeks of trying in summer, two weeks in autumn. But I must say that sometimes it was a lot about waiting for the conditions to arrive, sometimes I went up the route only to find out it is was too damp and especially in autumn, when the temperature was excellent, but two holds were seeping in the upper part as it had been raining for three weeks straight prior to arrival.

Just the day of the send they finally got almost dry. I could do the single moves despite wetness, but it would be extremely difficult on the link. I have never got that high before sending it, but during the send I realized that I would definitely fall off if got in the previous conditions.

Regarding to grade, it has been a long dilemma. After sending the first pitch for a first time (after about 5 or 6 days), I thought that the first is merely 9a+ and the second pitch felt close as I could recover at the first chains pretty well. The ascent felt in grasp, but the more I tried it, the more I realized how hard the first pitch is on itself and how pumpy the second pitch is. The more I tried, the more the idea of 9b+ was buzzing in my head. The final decision was made two days before my ascent. My self-confidence was low down, the ascent a million miles way and I was playing with the idea that chances of doing this trip are dashed. As I though about it, it felt so much harder than any 9b's I have done so far, I put so much time into it, additionally it fits my style quite well, I told myself that it was going to be too hard for a 9b...

I realize right now how extremely lucky I was to find a line that turned out to be exactly on my limit. No waste of bolts only to find something impossible, just long hours of looking at the endless sea of Flatanger granite and good decision. I must say, in the end I did not choose the first line that struck my eyes at first glance, the most impressive one. This one is still in my mind, I'll probably give a look at it next year. But Change turned out to be exactly as I anticipated. Challenging with good movements, various styles of climbing. The only thing that spoils the route is the nohand-rest and the fact that it doesn't go to the top of the cave, or at least to the lip. I had an idea of trying a line to the top in one push, but in the end I found out that it is impossible due to rope drag and climbing with two ropes and having one rope already hanging in the wall is just too artificial. And climbing another pitch only to go to the top – that would be nice for the feeling, but a lot of work and no one would ever really climb, even though it could be world class 8c, as it is too complicated to jug up there. I really focused on finding a good spot to set the anchor, not in the middle of blank wall on bad crimp, but good ledge on the top of the obvious square-shaped feature.

The recent times and the route itself definitely changed myself a lot. I live a totally different life as I am not going to school anymore. The trying of it was an ever changing process. In the meantime, I learnt a lot, but I suppose that once I will start something new, I will make the same mistakes. The fight with your mind is the one you can win only temporarily. But one thing the route did not change – my desire for opening new routes. First ascents turned out to be as enjoyable and satisfying I had thought.


 :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2012, 12:03:22 pm
Whereas in bouldering, I think the potential for future progress is much more limited, and that limit is mainly imposed by the rock.  There will undoubtedly be some, but IMO the rock suitable for large numbers of high quality Font 9As just isn’t out there…  Without hard bouldering just focussing on eliminates, I suspect the period of rapid improvements is nearly over.  But in sport climbing, the properly hard routes really are out there – high quality routes in large numbers all over the place in Spain and elsewhere.


I think given the sheer volume of rock out there in the world the potential for harder bouldering and harder routes both exist. I think the issue with both though is that of perception; Ondra is so far ahead of the game that I think he is going to have to adjust his mind set as to what he perceives as possible and challenging for him and start creating his own lines, not just getting pointed at existing projects (both routes and boulders) which others have seen as having potential and getting to work on them, and hoovering them up.

Thus far he hasn't really had his creativity in perceiving possible routes / problems stimulated (as far as I know) and I think if he does manage to develop this side of his climbing then I think he still has a long long way to go, given that he has no real limitations on his time, finances and enthusiasm.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 09, 2012, 12:09:43 pm
If Liquid Ambar is sticking as 8c+ Hubble should surely be 9a.

 I have no idea about relative difficulty of LA vs Hubble (and almost certainly never will, I'd back myself a lot more on Realisation than Hubble!) but regarding the LA grade I saw this Jerry quote the other day: "It's a tough route - nowadays it would undoubtedly be graded 8c+, no question about that."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 09, 2012, 12:14:06 pm
If Liquid Ambar is sticking as 8c+ Hubble should surely be 9a.

 I have no idea about relative difficulty of LA vs Hubble (and almost certainly never will, I'd back myself a lot more on Realisation than Hubble!) but regarding the LA grade I saw this Jerry quote the other day: "It's a tough route - nowadays it would undoubtedly be graded 8c+, no question about that."

Well Hubbles a full grade harder we know that much. Where was the Jerry quote, get me more!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 09, 2012, 12:23:47 pm
9a it is then. Bet Steve Mac would agree too.
Jerry quote was from an interview when  his book was coming out: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36598 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36598)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jim on October 09, 2012, 08:02:09 pm
all this talk of upgrading is very un-British. Perhaps we need to downgrade it to redress the balance?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on October 09, 2012, 08:40:45 pm
Good idea Jim. I suggest Pilgrim at Parisella's to 8a
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 09, 2012, 08:44:56 pm
Good idea Jim. I suggest Pilgrim at Parisella's to 8a

Or hard 7c+?  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 09, 2012, 08:46:00 pm
Good idea Jim. I suggest Pilgrim at Parisella's to 8a

 ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 10, 2012, 05:23:37 pm
If LA was the UK's first 8c+ instead of the first 8c, what was the first 8c?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2012, 05:25:48 pm
If LA was the UK's first 8c+ instead of the first 8c, what was the first 8c?

Cry Freedom with the original sequence  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: hobblingfool on October 15, 2012, 10:00:30 am
The young man takes a ground fall trying some traditional climbing, http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67520 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67520)  :o he should definitely stick to bolts and bouldering for now. Don’t want him hurting himself; watching him completing mind-blowing ascents is too entertaining.

Oh and another 9a first ascent. It’s crazy that 9a is not big news for some now.  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on October 15, 2012, 10:25:45 am
Phew, you only have to watch the bit around 2 minutes to understand why he is the current best in the world.

Holy crap! :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rjtrials on October 15, 2012, 02:00:28 pm
Also, Ondra is now using kneepads.  how does this affect the asinine 'ethical' debate?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on October 23, 2012, 10:07:14 am
 Apparently  (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ashima-sends-514a) Ondra is flying out to Red River Gorge today.  :popcorn:

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 23, 2012, 10:33:48 am
9a onsight? Place your bets now...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 23, 2012, 10:45:33 am
Crimpy, fingery 9as... They're toast.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 23, 2012, 10:59:20 am
Yeah, I reckon he'll be all over that place like a bad rash.

Wonder how many projects are having saucepan lids padlocked to the first bolt as we speak?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on October 23, 2012, 12:46:07 pm
Heard this all before so many times. In 20 years 8c boulders will not even be news worthy and 9s will be getting put up everywhere.
The boundary between just possible and impossible just continues to get wider.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on October 23, 2012, 12:49:11 pm
Apparently  (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ashima-sends-514a) Ondra is flying out to Red River Gorge today.  :popcorn:

Quote from: DPM climbing
All hard routes are currently in a state of DEFCON 1 meaning that absolute annihilation is imminent.

:lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on October 23, 2012, 02:01:24 pm
In the course of reading that DPM article, and having to look things up because of the bizarre American refusal to use normal sport climbing grades, I noticed that Rockfax's exchange rate table only goes up to 9b+.

I hope they have a new edition in the pipeline.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 23, 2012, 02:51:03 pm
Thats ok, Adam Ondra's a dab hand at routes as well as bouldering.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 24, 2012, 12:52:36 pm
Back on Ondrawatch...

Long interview from Planetmountain.com (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40198)  :coffee:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 25, 2012, 06:31:06 pm
Hold onto your hats....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: biscuit on October 26, 2012, 11:16:20 am
Nice interview. Sounds like we can look forward to lots more 9b's and above.

Interesting about Planta Shiva. It's about 15 mins from my house and there is much more scope for development in that sort of grade from what i can see. There are similar lines on the same wall that also appear to have no proper holds on them just like Planta Shiva.

When you get close up to these routes and have a good look i can't even begin to imagine how they get up them.

I'm looking forward to him coming back soon as he said he thought there was more new routing potential here than in Catalunia. After he's on-sighted 9a of course.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on October 30, 2012, 01:05:49 am
Ondra flashes Southern Smoke Direct (9a+/5.15a) with beta from Daniel Woods and John Cardwell.

Ondra not surprisingly is unsure if he's done a 9a+ flash and suggests it could be 9a. Woods and Cardwell have worked on the route for days and say it is "at least 9a".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Drew on October 30, 2012, 01:18:10 am
It was only a matter of time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 30, 2012, 01:22:31 am
Ondra flashes Southern Smoke Direct (9a+/5.15a) with beta from Daniel Woods and John Cardwell.

Ondra not surprisingly is unsure if he's done a 9a+ flash and suggests it could be 9a. Woods and Cardwell have worked on the route for days and say it is "at least 9a".

If not 9a+ would this be the first 9a flash? Glad to hear he's pulled his finger out, I was getting impatient waiting for news of extreme beastlyness.  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on October 30, 2012, 02:08:04 am
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 30, 2012, 07:30:57 am
 :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on October 30, 2012, 07:31:14 am
:bow::strongbench::bow:

it was only a matter of time but still wow!!!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on October 30, 2012, 07:49:28 am
:bow::strongbench::bow:

it was only a matter of time but still wow!!!!

The degree of inevitability almost makes it more impressive, but still ...  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 30, 2012, 08:34:20 am
I ll repeat what I said on the Ashima thread- climbing has gone crazy!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 30, 2012, 08:40:22 am
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a)

"Apparently, he walked up to it and just went into beast mode".

That's a useful trick.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2012, 09:52:32 am
Is that like going into berserker mode?

Just crazy. And it's just beginning.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on October 30, 2012, 09:57:40 am
fuuuuuuuuuuuck.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on October 30, 2012, 10:10:23 am
Awesome!  :bow:

Quote from: DPM website
Daniel Woods and Jon Cardwell have both been working the route

Ondra is fucking incredible.

If he's done the project left of Take That Katie Brown (and given it 14b/c!) then he's probably going to get a lot more of the open projects out there done. Fantastic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2012, 10:21:00 am
Ondra not surprisingly is unsure if he's done a 9a+ flash and suggests it could be 9a. Woods and Cardwell have worked on the route for days and say it is "at least 9a".

Two worlds colliding there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wipey Why on October 30, 2012, 12:52:47 pm
OH EMM GEE!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 30, 2012, 01:02:24 pm
'kinell
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on October 30, 2012, 01:45:53 pm
Epic.

This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down. Got to be better than work!

Next generation of talent.
 :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on October 30, 2012, 03:27:14 pm
mental
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2012, 03:34:47 pm
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.

Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on October 30, 2012, 03:50:02 pm
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.

Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)

How young you talking ?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on October 30, 2012, 03:50:27 pm
jimmy young
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 30, 2012, 04:18:30 pm
Jimmy Savile.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 30, 2012, 04:53:14 pm
Couple of pics of the historic ascent from Planetmountains news item

(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/14701.jpg)
(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/14702.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on October 30, 2012, 08:55:09 pm
The corner crack in the background looks well nice  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on October 30, 2012, 09:00:39 pm
What the fuck. Somebody buy this kid a train ticket to carnforth.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 30, 2012, 09:03:30 pm
Wad the fuck
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on October 30, 2012, 09:11:11 pm
Phew, that wall is way more overhung than I thought it was, dont know why I thought it was straight up when it is covered in 9a routes...but there you go.  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on October 30, 2012, 09:23:14 pm
You might be thinking of the wall with pure imagination and golden ticket - pretty sure that's a different wall and is less steep
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2012, 10:30:07 pm
This + Ashima news is crazy. Wish I was in the Red River Gorge (a) climbing and (b) watching all this stuff go down.

Wonder if young love will blossom in Kentucky? :)

How young you talking ?

It is kentucky. If you get out your teens unmarried you are regarded as over the hill.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on October 30, 2012, 10:57:23 pm
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on October 30, 2012, 11:25:26 pm
Quote
I have done much except this, first two days I was warming up, then I tried 24 Carats, 8c+, and came quite close to onsighting, whereas on Lucifer, 8c+, I was miles away and sent it 4th go. I hadn't thought I was in a good shape, unsure about what to do and whether to save the flashes and onsights for the next year, but luckily I didn't save at least that flash. The grade is definitely 9a (5.14d), I do think that all the guys who gave me the beta (Cedric, Daniel, Jon) agree with that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on October 30, 2012, 11:27:16 pm
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on October 31, 2012, 06:16:11 am
Note the different shoe choice, Futura left, Python right.
Just to be sure nothing is left out of the plan.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 31, 2012, 08:26:12 am
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

Started, however, by John Arran whose climbing credentials are rather more solid than most people there. Or here.

So what?  He really should know better.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 31, 2012, 09:29:23 am
And Ru, and Midgets Of The World ;)

I'm sure some of them are talking sense, I tried to read it but couldn't manage it.

Flashing 9a is awesome and I agree the "corner" in the background looks ace.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 31, 2012, 09:45:40 am
quick! get that man's metrics to feed into Slackers data bank

Shirley a wider grade spread will make it easier to spot patterns?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ru on October 31, 2012, 11:05:37 pm
And Ru, and Midgets Of The World ;)

In my defence, I am ashamed. My excuse was that I'd finished my work and was too ill to train.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on November 01, 2012, 09:03:51 am
Ure a barrister man, "I'm ashamed" is no defence!
Was going to suggest anyone replying to that thread be instantly banned from ukb but since we'd lose our 2 smallest posters I'll refrain
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 01, 2012, 09:39:12 am
Yeah if we lose them two then it's just magpie and you.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on November 01, 2012, 09:06:38 pm
 :yawn:
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on November 01, 2012, 09:15:01 pm
:yawn:
Predictable UKC thread in the wake of this: "Which is harder to onsight, 9a or Indian Face?"

I'm waiting for the thread querying the achievement because of pre-placed draws and chalk on the holds.

There was a thread on one of the American forums that I read the other day regarding the recent ascent of Dreamcatcher, in which some tw*t popped up with a snide comment about pre-placed draws. The others very commendably ignored him and carried on with the conversation.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 01, 2012, 09:28:35 pm
Who does 9a putting the clips in!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 01, 2012, 10:17:24 pm
The guy who onsights indian face.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 01, 2012, 11:24:30 pm
Who does 9a putting the clips in!

Didn't Ondra do that on Nordic Flower? (or did he downgrade that to 8c+ or something?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 12:10:03 am
The guy who onsights indian face.

 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 02, 2012, 02:55:43 am
DPM reporting that Ondra onsighted Pure Imagination (9a) and The Golden Ticket (9a) in the same day, suggesting lower 8c+ for Pure Imagination and hard 8c+ for Golden Ticket.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on November 02, 2012, 07:29:17 am
Ondra seems to be causing more devastation
:strongbench:

Even if they get a downgrade too 8c+ onsight in a day is pretty amazing
 :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 02, 2012, 07:55:22 am
 :popcorn:
Reminds me of how Moffatt went to Frankenjura in '83 and onsighted the three hardest routes there.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ali k on November 02, 2012, 08:45:47 am
Fuck me that is incredible  :o

Not doubting Ondra's grading skills but maybe he is just too strong now. Either that or the routes in RRG are so suited to on-sights that it feels like a redpoint would anywhere else?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 08:55:33 am
I knew he'd downgrade all these routes. Some things never change and one of them is soft grades in the states.  ;)

What an absolute monster!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 02, 2012, 09:14:56 am
Some things never change and one of them is soft grades in the states.  ;)

Not all areas and let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on November 02, 2012, 09:32:25 am
Amazing. How 'brave and humble' to suggest downgrades  :P

At age 18 or so, Ondra's list of achievements is already so long that this thread goes to 35 pages. That, in itself, is a pretty good achievement?!  :strongbench:

Sweepstake on how many pages the thread ends up before he stops being impressive, or we all get amazement fatigue?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 02, 2012, 09:39:30 am
Some things never change and one of them is soft grades in the states.  ;)

Not all areas and let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades

from Johnathon (Siegrist?) on the DPM comments:
Quote
YES. Very stoked for Adam. This is super impressive, and while he may be too strong to really know (probably), I think a little grade correction is long overdue in the Red - even if it is one of my routes getting downgraded... Nice work man.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 09:43:20 am

let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades

 :yawn: That's about as relevant as Indian Face.

And yes I know it's not all areas, it was a joke hence the  ;)

Sharma changed the fact that all Americans were punters a long time ago......
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2012, 09:53:06 am
DPM reporting that Ondra onsighted Pure Imagination (9a) and The Golden Ticket (9a) in the same day, suggesting lower 8c+ for Pure Imagination and hard 8c+ for Golden Ticket.


I would never downgrade PI for fear of upsetting Sasha.

Amazing achievements though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 09:55:00 am

I would never downgrade PI for fear of upsetting Sasha.


If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 10:06:56 am
 :agree:

"What first attracted you to the millionaire Paul Daniels".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2012, 10:10:45 am

I would never downgrade PI for fear of upsetting Sasha.


If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).

But she also said she believes in the power of holograms, so I don't trust a word that comes out of her lovely mouth.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on November 02, 2012, 10:11:18 am
At age 18 or so, Ondra's list of achievements is already so long that this thread goes to 35 pages.


Internet says he's 19, 20 in Feb. Teenage prodigy for not much longer. World's best climber for as long as he wants to be...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 02, 2012, 10:38:50 am
But she also said she believes in the power of holograms, so I don't trust a word that comes out of her lovely mouth.

 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 02, 2012, 11:51:52 am
Cool!  Let me start the speculations.

1) If Change really is 9b+, a 9a o/s will surely follow.  Is there any easy-to-read long 9a Ondra hasn't climbed yet?

2) Ondra will soon stop this cragging nonsense and move into alpinism. Only in the mountains will there be challenges left.

1) check.

2) not yet.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 12:05:08 pm
But she also said she believes in the power of holograms, so I don't trust a word that comes out of her lovely mouth.

Very good point.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on November 02, 2012, 12:35:40 pm
 :jaw: monster ondra monster

If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).


with you on this

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 02, 2012, 12:43:59 pm

let's not forget Team America's tearing up the Grit grades

 :yawn: That's about as relevant as Indian Face.


It was relevant insofar as we have had embarrassing grade moments as well so best not to poke (too much) fun.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 02, 2012, 01:03:42 pm
It's probably worth pointing out that Adam Taylor originally graded The Golden Ticket 5.14c/8c+, and it was upgraded by subsequent repeaters, so Ondra calling it "hard 8c+" isn't really much of a downgrade. It is definitely true that the RRG is a great place to push your onsight limit though; the resistant style of climbing means if you have anything resembling good endurance fitness you can get up routes that are graded near your limit.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on November 02, 2012, 01:04:41 pm
What were the embarrassing grade moments?  I only remember The Groove, which KJ only climbed half of before giving it a different grade?  Hadn't the Promise been downgraded pre Team America?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 01:35:49 pm
Exactly.

Also, absolutely no relevance to sport climbing grades and my shit joke which was about American sport grades being taken with a pinch of salt for over 20 years (anyone remember Boone Speed's Blackout?).

Someone take shark's spade off him.  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on November 02, 2012, 01:39:54 pm
I guess it's also worth pointing out that Ondra is a climber like any other with particular strengths and weaknesses (maybe?) and not a 1 man arbiter of grades.

It must be boring being that good at climbing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 02, 2012, 02:14:16 pm
Exactly.

Also, absolutely no relevance to sport climbing grades and my shit joke which was about American sport grades being taken with a pinch of salt for over 20 years (anyone remember Boone Speed's Blackout?).

Someone take shark's spade off him.  :P

Ok I'm wrong.  :spank:

Is that a breach of forum etiquette ?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 02, 2012, 02:29:18 pm
Yes. Ban Fiend immediately.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2012, 02:50:40 pm
Piss off blondie :chair:

Also:

If I remember from the video she wasn'tt that bothered about the grade as it was the line and climbing that inspired her (although I'm finding thats an increasingly over-used cliche these days).

with you on this

Is it a cliche?? I tend to take these comments at face value - I assume if someone is going to push their limits (which the grade is probably some sort of useful guesstimate for) then they'd really want to do it on something with an inspiring line and climbing.

Then again people climb hard at the Tor so  :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 02, 2012, 02:55:16 pm
Of course it's a cliché. "Look at me, I'm so down to earth and deep that I don't care about grades and only care about aesthetics." If that were true, those people wouldn't be pushing their grade, they'd be travelling around the world climbing stunning VDiffs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 03:14:30 pm
Is it a cliche??

Yes (https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=opera&rls=en-GB&q=define+cliche)  :tease:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2012, 03:27:30 pm
Well that definition implies that it is....subjectively. "a trite or obvious remark / trite: Overused and consequently of little import" I think the import depends partly on the person reading/hearing the phrase, and I still think the phrase in question can be important to mention and have some power - otherwise we'd all be believing the spurious shite andi_e is mistakenly spouting as a counter-argument (are people really so wrapped up in their grade-chasing they can't perceive climbing otherwise?).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on November 02, 2012, 03:35:41 pm
Which is why I said I'm finding it cliched.  The phrase may be important, as you think it is, but still be cliched to me as its fairly obvious that people don't climb to grade chase and the same or variations on a theme are heard in most videos these days (although it can be used very well for example the use of the phrase is parodied in Vertical Sailing when they set off up a grass choked crack!).

Anyway  :offtopic: and I'm not about to derail another thread. :sorry:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 02, 2012, 03:47:04 pm
otherwise we'd all be believing the spurious shite andi_e is mistakenly spouting as a counter-argument (are people really so wrapped up in their grade-chasing they can't perceive climbing otherwise?).

Not that, but their egos demand that they want to seem so aloof and cool and at one with mother nature.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on November 02, 2012, 04:32:42 pm
they'd be travelling around the world climbing stunning VDiffs.

Such as ...?

Cool-looking inspiring lines to tend to involve harder climbing. I'm certainly finding that in the area I live in and the level I currently climb at. Alpine multipitch sport routes at around 6a/b for eaxmple - even ones that are supposedly "classics" of the genre -  tend to be not very inspiring lines with lots of pretty scrappy pitches and only the odd good bit. The really cool-looking lines start at quite a bit harder.

Of course "quite a bit harder" relative to 6a/b doesn't necessarily have to mean 9a upwards. I'm quite willing to believe that diminshing returns kick in at some point. But the fact remains that harder climbs are, often, better, and that one valid reason to want to climb harder is to be able to get on a wider selection of inspiring-looking lines in cool situations.

(OK, I'd be willing to concede the Sgurr Dubh Mor Slabs on Skye as a rare example of an easy route that it is utterly stunning. Name another)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2012, 04:37:16 pm
one valid reason to want to climb harder is to be able to get on a wider selection of inspiring-looking lines in cool situations.
Congratulations, we have a winner.

Anyway, what was the topic. Flashing two 9as and downgrading them to 8c+....errrr....yes rather good. Not much to add to that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on November 02, 2012, 04:40:44 pm
Can we keep this thread on track with Ondra being a wad instead of descending into farce again
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 02, 2012, 06:42:53 pm
At the risk of descending back into farce mode (instead of going into beast mode)...

What strikes me as so inspiring about Ondra, apart from his climbing ability, is his attitude. Think about how a hell of a lot of other good climbers in the same position as Ondra would act - you've just flashed a route given 9a+, and onsighted two routes given 9a; how many climbers would be happy to claim it? All bar a very few is my guess.  Not him - he's just turned down the opportunity to be the first ever to O/S 9a. Twice.  That to me shows an unusual ability to distance himself from the hype.  I can't imagine a more narcissistic climber ever having the sort of self-control to ignore the little glory-hunting devil on one shoulder and instead listen to the angel on the other telling you it might not really be the grade given! Admittedly he's become the first ever to flash 9a, and it'll probably be Ondra who does become the first to onsight 9a but still...

(and until he solos 7b+ in the welsh hills he's not kidding anyone)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Richie Crouch on November 02, 2012, 07:50:52 pm
I fucking love reading about Ondra destruction. Looking forward to seeing some footage of him trying really hard!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 02, 2012, 08:59:35 pm
It must be boring being that good at climbing!

Too right, what is climbing without spending years wondering if you'll ever be good enough to tick your dream climb.  The joy when you do something only lasts 30 minutes.  Even his 9b+ didn't seem to be too much of an epic, he needs to spend 50 days on something to get a real feel for the game  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 03, 2012, 01:21:32 am
When that banal shite is layed on in climbing videos it always sounds rehearsed and hackneyed as the driving to the crag scene. We.all.climb to climb beautiful lines, just like we all.drive to the crag.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 03, 2012, 01:32:57 am
Daniel Woods confirmed the downgrade on Pure Imagination today after flashing (!) it with beta from Ondra. Unless I'm forgetting someone that makes him only the 4th climber to flash or better on an 8c+ route (Ondra, Ramonet, and Paxi being the others, all onsights), which is pretty impressive for a guy who until this year was mostly a boulderer rather than route climber.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 03, 2012, 08:53:13 am
Yes it is impressive! Sits nicely with his font 8b+ flash.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on November 03, 2012, 08:58:18 am
..... he needs to spend 50 days on something to get a real feel for the game  :P

He should move to the UK and tear-up his passport.  He'll then get to spend months at a time fruitlessly waiting for holds to dry.... not that I'm bitter (my first season of sport-climbing, whilst more successful than I expected, became akin to a course in "character building" designed by a seepage obsessed sadist).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 03, 2012, 09:11:53 am
He had wet holds in Norway I suppose....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 03, 2012, 10:19:12 am
I heard when Ondra goes into beast-mode, seepage retreats.  :ninja:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on November 03, 2012, 07:22:17 pm
Unbelievable, it makes you wonder how hard things like mutation must be, I can't see that one getting flashed anytime soon. (I may live to eat these words! although I believe Ondra has been on it).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on November 03, 2012, 09:04:04 pm
Unbelievable, it makes you wonder how hard things like mutation must be.

Eh? Sport routes aren't graded for onsights, are you getting confused with trad?  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on November 03, 2012, 10:28:37 pm
That's true but I reckon onsight or redpoint, Mutation might compare well difficulty wise with some of these enduro fests in RRG, although of course its a completely different style. Incidently, interestingly I don't think Ondra managed to onsight Mecca which is a lowly 8b+ which perhaps comfirms that tor routes are difficult to onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on November 05, 2012, 07:59:31 am
Ondra Bolting in RRG

http://imgur.com/a/M2JEf (http://imgur.com/a/M2JEf)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on November 05, 2012, 09:07:54 am
Must have read your post Doylo.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 05, 2012, 09:50:09 am
And the "the next level" thread.

Shame he only has 90 days to complete the lifetime project before US Immigration come for him.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 05, 2012, 10:20:46 am
Incidently, interestingly I don't think Ondra managed to onsight Mecca which is a lowly 8b+ which perhaps comfirms that tor routes are difficult to onsight.

AFAIK he didn't get on it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on November 05, 2012, 11:43:08 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 06, 2012, 11:26:56 pm
The latest:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/two-514-onsights-ondra)

 :w00t:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 06, 2012, 11:35:12 pm
Am I missing something, or are you? That article is 5 days old, and JBM linked it on here 2 pages ago.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2012, 09:58:26 am
Good to see the moderators with their fingers on the pulse.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 07, 2012, 10:16:46 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 07, 2012, 10:45:56 am
 :slap:


I did say it was the latest though
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on November 07, 2012, 10:49:39 am
It isnt.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/more-red (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/more-red)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2012, 10:50:46 am
doublefail.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 07, 2012, 10:54:22 am
It's all going off. 4 people have flashed 8c+ and 17 8c+s have been flashed. 14 of those by Ondra, one each for the other three.  :look:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 07, 2012, 11:09:31 am
doublefail.

"Latest" as in late. Geddit ?

Where's my coat..

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on November 07, 2012, 11:21:05 am
Quote
Adam is regarding it as a "lifetime project." Sources state that the new line has approximately four V14 boulder problems on it.

 :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 07, 2012, 12:15:17 pm
So, four goes to flash each single boulder problem, plus a few ones to link them, plus some days of poor conditions...
Project climbed by Christmas?  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on November 07, 2012, 12:44:10 pm
As an act of charity, I think Ondra should install intermediate belays between each boulder problem.  That way he would bring a life-time ground-up ascent within the grasp of mere punters like Sharma, Robinson etc!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2012, 01:01:57 pm
I wonder if it would be possible to combine portaledge and trampoline technology to give each one a decent landing. Although you probably wouldn't want to bounce off the trampoline.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stenno on November 12, 2012, 12:18:04 pm
red river gorge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_p_BOyjxpA#ws)

Some good footage of Ondra going animal on the Southern Smoke Direct flash at the end of that video and some footage of Woods and Lachat working it for comparison...he's definitely on another level
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2012, 12:53:04 pm
I think the correct term is "beast mode". The difference between Lachat trying it and Ondra doing it (first go) is quite marked. And Lachat is no slouch.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on November 12, 2012, 01:38:18 pm
Nice video.

Ondra tries really hard but then that is what it takes to climb Fontainebleu 8b.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 13, 2012, 11:21:13 am
Entre-Prises' Adam Ondra climbing Hoosier Heights Indianapolis (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlQWPsSz_lE#ws)

Comes across as a nice and increasingly eloquent guy. I like that he was inspired for 2 years to try Pure Imagination, I respect that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on November 13, 2012, 04:51:02 pm
Comes across as a nice and increasingly eloquent guy.
Yeah, let's hope he stays off the weed and doesn't end up a babbling/ vocabulary-constrained stoner like the entire late 90's/ 00's generation of hard US climbers.

And when exactly did he find time to nail English anyway?

And Italian, cutlurewad
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 13, 2012, 05:07:00 pm
Dura Dura next .... :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 13, 2012, 05:47:27 pm
The transformation will be complete when he drops the term 'smashed it in' into his next interview.
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on November 13, 2012, 06:56:43 pm
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 14, 2012, 07:51:55 am
cutlurewad

superb.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on November 19, 2012, 11:22:20 am
Don't know if someone already posted this somewhere, but it's worth seeing again anyway. An amazing bit of onsighting:

http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)

For comparison, someone fairly handy having a battle on that top bit:

Working the Golden Ticket on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/16675082)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 19, 2012, 11:36:17 am
Jesus, ridiculous! I couldn't help fantasising about the mother of all screams if he had dropped the last move  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2012, 12:04:35 pm
The transformation will be complete when he drops the term 'smashed it in' into his next interview.

I'd love to see a series of interviews in the Gulio Geordio style.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 19, 2012, 03:07:49 pm
Don't know if someone already posted this somewhere, but it's worth seeing again anyway. An amazing bit of onsighting:

http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)

Bloody great, shows just how ace onsighting is and just how ace Ondra is (and the route for that matter). I love his committment to some of the bad holds moves. Also shows how utterly important not being scared of falling is - whould he have had the strength for the crux if he'd clipped before it??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 19, 2012, 03:19:37 pm
Don't know if someone already posted this somewhere, but it's worth seeing again anyway. An amazing bit of onsighting:

http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)

Bloody great, shows just how ace onsighting is and just how ace Ondra is (and the route for that matter). I love his committment to some of the bad holds moves. Also shows how utterly important not being scared of falling is - whould he have had the strength for the crux if he'd clipped before it??

Yes i don't think anyone who's scared of falling off could onsight 8c+!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on November 19, 2012, 03:25:58 pm
whould he have had the strength for the crux if he'd clipped before it??

He didn't exactly looked boxed out of his mind to be fair...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 19, 2012, 03:30:03 pm
Amazing. Seeing Pringle (who is very much not shit) struggling on the redpoint puts it into perspective too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 19, 2012, 03:45:50 pm
I know its stating the bloody obvious but he is fuckin incredible at onsight climbing. This footage and the Mind Control footage are just silly  :yes:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on November 19, 2012, 05:04:20 pm
On Golden Ticket he simply doesn't look like he's climbing onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on December 05, 2012, 10:21:02 am
From La Sportiva: Adam Ondra's thoughts on the US, his beast powers in 'the Red', and what's next - looks like Dura Dura...

http://www.lasportiva.com/news_approfondimento.html?&L=1&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=1665&cHash=fe075b79e743a7ba1bd8338d5506df43 (http://www.lasportiva.com/news_approfondimento.html?&L=1&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=1665&cHash=fe075b79e743a7ba1bd8338d5506df43)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 05, 2012, 11:45:56 am
Setting off for a 9a on sight, after two years of waiting, he just knew he would not fall off. With every crimp his confidence grew. What a monster.
The battle is won before fighting it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 05, 2012, 12:18:19 pm
Just shows how powerful his mind skills are.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2012, 02:46:43 pm
Well said Nibble.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 05, 2012, 02:54:53 pm
adam ondra, hero and rock star :

http://i.imgur.com/g1Uok.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/g1Uok.jpg)

from :

La Sportiva Legends Only - Backstage on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/54728411)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on December 06, 2012, 12:38:55 pm
tHAT DANCING IS iNCREDIBLE!

I respect him more.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on December 06, 2012, 04:05:00 pm
(http://i.imgur.com/g1Uok.jpg)

 :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 07, 2013, 09:29:10 am
Adam Ondra´s 2013 message - Start the change on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/56865046)

 :unsure:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 07, 2013, 10:50:39 am
 Most amusing!  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 07, 2013, 11:28:17 am
just weird i thought hahaha
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2013, 11:31:36 am
Just shit I thought.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 07, 2013, 11:39:53 am
 :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 07, 2013, 12:51:04 pm
I thought it was nice to see that he's not above taking the piss out of himself (although it could have been shorter).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 07, 2013, 12:53:38 pm
If I want to watch someone twatting about on a building I'll watch Liam Copley's films. Or rather I wont.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2013, 01:35:44 pm
+1. A mildly amusing joke that could have been funny if 30 seconds long.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 07, 2013, 08:47:55 pm
Hope not hahahaha
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on January 25, 2013, 12:09:46 am

http://www.entre-prises.com/news/2013/01/ondra_january_update (http://www.entre-prises.com/news/2013/01/ondra_january_update)


(http://www.entre-prises.com/userfiles/image/ondra_jan_02.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on January 29, 2013, 11:17:35 pm
Quote from: http://www.8a.nu
Today, Adam Ondra fell on the last move on the last crux half way up on the 50 m La Dura Dura. "He screamed as usual but you could here he was pleased, excited and very confident. Today was kind of shitty conditions. He dominated Oliana today and for sure he will send it this weekend with better conditions. It was so cool...", says a very impressed fan.

But he needs to do it fast as Chris Sharma who bolted it has also made nice progress passing the first part... "The bottom is like a series of really specific moves and really fucked up climbing on bullshit holds....", continues the fan. Ondra has said that possibly it is even harder than The Change, 9b+ and this is his fifth trip only dedicated to it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2013, 12:00:15 am
Don't care for the competition aspect that 8a.nu typically leans towards.

Just be great to see either of them do it.  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2013, 12:01:57 am
Or both!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2013, 12:08:27 am
At the same time! :clown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on January 30, 2013, 12:17:35 am
The way things are presented on 8a.nu sometimes goes against the grain, but come on, although I'm sure they are enjoying trying the route together, competition has got to be there, and I'll bet they are each trying just that little bit harder...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 30, 2013, 07:16:02 am
No doubt there is, but from the clips I've seen its likely very friendly and twisting it into a race is just sensationalism, unnecessary and detracts (slightly) from the reporting.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2013, 08:01:52 am
Crap reporting from 8a.nu. Shock horror!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 30, 2013, 02:47:02 pm
That idiot that Jens Larssen is, is already talking about "the race"... Reminds me about the Troll Wall false titles from local and British press.
Utter bull***t as usual. Completely unnecessary.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2013, 02:06:16 pm
Ondra on the lower section of La Dura Dura...

(http://www.rockandicemagazine.com/Article-Images/News-Photos/ondra-la-dura-dura.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on January 31, 2013, 02:27:17 pm
Awesome photo! It looks absolutely nails!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 31, 2013, 04:11:14 pm
Is it only I who fail to see how "climbers attempting to get up a route" is of general interest?

(I have a hard time understanding the general interest around the Dawn Wall project as well)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on January 31, 2013, 04:18:58 pm
Is it only I who fail to see how "climbers attempting to get up a route" is of general interest?

(I have a hard time understanding the general interest around the Dawn Wall project as well)

Probably because when they eventually get climbed they will be some of the hardest climbs in the world?

I also like the reports because it shows the amount of effort that goes into climbing something of that calibre.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on January 31, 2013, 04:26:28 pm
Life must be very dull for you...

Two guys pushing the sport harder than ever done before, in a challenge of young upstart over ultrawad stalwart of the scene?

That really does nothing for you? :shrug:

Its like the hype up before any big fixture in any other sport, both are looking round the course, commenting on interesting features that could play to their advantages, talking about tactics, about how they need to train for a certain move.
4 trips now this 'Dura Dura' has held off what is unquestionably the two strongest climbers of this generation and the next. :bounce:

I dont understand how you can possibly not be interested in this if you claim to have any interest in climbing...

Even if these things arent happening to me, it is enjoyable to live through them vicariously.

Stop being a party pooper.  :spank:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2013, 04:36:36 pm
Its like the hype up before any big fixture in any other sport, both are looking round the course, commenting on interesting features that could play to their advantages, talking about tactics, about how they need to train for a certain move.

And that sort of stuff is precisely what turns a lot of people off of those sports and perhaps towards climbing.  There is a lot of bullshit talked around a lot of sports, e.g. football, title matches in boxing.  What does it serve purpose for?  To increase interest and get people to pay to watch it.

4 trips now this 'Dura Dura' has held off what is unquestionably the two strongest climbers of this generation and the next. :bounce:

Nonce Sense, you've no idea what the next generation will bring.  Plus I'd imagine Sharma, who lives out in Spain and bolted the line, has spent more than 4 trips on it.

I dont understand how you can possibly not be interested in this if you claim to have any interest in climbing...

Even if these things arent happening to me, it is enjoyable to live through them vicariously.

Stop being a party pooper.  :spank:

Some people climb for themselves rather than vicariously and have no interest in what others are up to.

Its not shitting on your party to ask a question.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 31, 2013, 04:42:00 pm
I was about to reply, but slackline already replied for me. Thank you sir!

I am sure I will be well interested and duly impressed if someone climbs La Dura Dura and it turn out to be hard.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on January 31, 2013, 04:44:01 pm
Surely most climbers are interested in the process, not just the resulting name and grade?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on January 31, 2013, 05:09:21 pm
Quote
And that sort of stuff is precisely what turns a lot of people off of those sports and perhaps towards climbing.  There is a lot of bullshit talked around a lot of sports, e.g. football, title matches in boxing.  What does it serve purpose for?  To increase interest and get people to pay to watch it.

I guess...Still, I think it is a bit of an oversight to deliberately ignore what will be a likely topic of conversation when it happens.

Quote
Nonce Sense, you've no idea what the next generation will bring.  Plus I'd imagine Sharma, who lives out in Spain and bolted the line, has spent more than 4 trips on it.

Ondra is 19 years old, and at present is continuing to improve. While I agree that other younglings are tearing up the rule books on what was perceived to be possible in the non too distant past, I dont think it is remotely unreasonable to suggest that he (provided he doesnt give up/burnout) will continue to be one of the sports strongest climbers for many years to come.

Your point about Sharma living so close to the project only serves to intensify the point I was making?

Fairly irrelevant to the point in hand.

Quote
Some people climb for themselves rather than vicariously and have no interest in what others are up to.

Its not shitting on your party to ask a question.

Maybe not to ask the question alone but it tends to come with a subtext most of the time.

I know enough people that turn up in groups and try to give the appearance of individuality or superiority by suggesting they are above the base pursuits of others that find these stories to be of interest.

Im sure you have met a 'hipster' at some point who doesnt like 'xyz' band because they are not obscure enough (despite whatever their vocalised reasoning is)

I am suggesting that if jwi is going to the pub with some mates, I would consider him a bit of a dick -Nay! a 'party pooper'- if he tried to pull that sort of attitude while everyone is talking about how in awe they are.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 31, 2013, 05:32:23 pm
Ondra is 19 years old, and at present is continuing to improve. While I agree that other younglings are tearing up the rule books on what was perceived to be possible in the non too distant past, I dont think it is remotely unreasonable to suggest that he (provided he doesnt give up/burnout) will continue to be one of the sports strongest climbers for many years to come.

And my point was that you don't have a crystal ball so its pointless conjecture about the future.

Cliff Burton was an amazing bass player....until the tour bus he was travelling in crashed throwing him out the window and crushing him when it toppled onto him.

Being something of a pedant I hate it when things are qualified as being biggest/hardest/fastest.....EVER when it should be "...so far".

I am suggesting that if jwi is going to the pub with some mates, I would consider him a bit of a dick -Nay! a 'party pooper'- if he tried to pull that sort of attitude while everyone is talking about how in awe they are.

When I go climbing with mates the pretext is that we enjoy ourselves for the day/evening, what  world class wads have been upto is irrelevant and never gets mentioned.  Generally too engrossed in the task at hand.  Chat at the crag or in the pub is far more likely to involve what we've been upto since the last time we met, climbing just done, where/when to go next or things other than climbing ( :o I know shocking isn't it) rather than wads on the other side of the world and what they're upto which whilst it might be pushing world standards has little bearing on our lives.

Horses for courses, but you shouldn't expect others to get excited about the things that excite you.

I don't think jwi has any subtext.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on January 31, 2013, 05:40:27 pm
Surely most climbers are interested in the process, not just the resulting name and grade?
+1
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 31, 2013, 09:24:58 pm
 :agree: definitely.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on January 31, 2013, 11:35:24 pm

Its like the hype up before any big fixture in any other sport, both are looking round the course, commenting on interesting features that could play to their advantages, talking about tactics, about how they need to train for a certain move.


...totally, it's the foreplay. All this talk of the challenge and difficulty is getting me proper hard. I keep coming back here each day to see if there's any progress and get a bit more info here, a cupping of the balls there and then one day soon 'bang' the pent up excitement will erupt in a fountain of joy as one of the two worthy contenders succeeds on what could be the hardest climb in the world.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on February 01, 2013, 06:17:49 am
Adam Ondra - very close in Dura Dura - www.easyclimbning.cz (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKkP-kxlthQ#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on February 01, 2013, 08:51:27 am
That looks amazing.

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5063/5619294173_677da6ccb7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/)
Picture1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/#) by ianvincent (http://www.flickr.com/people/37621241@N05/), on Flickr

 :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 01, 2013, 08:52:34 am
My word.  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pitcairn on February 01, 2013, 09:00:06 am
looks brilliant. compare how hard he is trying on that with how easy it looked when he onsighted 8c+ in RRG...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on February 01, 2013, 09:03:38 am
cringe worthy, half hearted shout of 'psyche' at 1:50.

brilliant other than that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stewart on February 01, 2013, 09:21:13 am
cringe worthy, half hearted shout of 'psyche' at 1:50.


Is that Sharma? Is he there just now as well?

Some of those dyno's look crazy, slightly dissapointed with the temper tantrum though, heard better.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: hobblingfool on February 01, 2013, 09:53:48 am
This video is private  :'(
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on February 01, 2013, 11:27:07 am
Since I managed to watch it before it got privated - I'll give you a blow by blow account.

Sit down  :popcorn: this is going to be exciting.

He starts climbing, and does a jumpy move.
Apparently this one is quite hard because there are shouts in various languages from somewhere around the camera.

He then climbs a bit more, and takes a rest on a jug for a while.

He starts off again and does another big jumpy move - again followed by some shouting.
He climbs some more and goes for a throwy move, but unfortuantely falls off and screams a bit.

The scream was a little disappointing though, one decent yell but then he stops and starts slapping his legs a bit before lowering down...

I hope I did it justice.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2013, 11:38:08 am
That looks amazing.

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5063/5619294173_677da6ccb7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/)
Picture1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5619294173/#) by ianvincent (http://www.flickr.com/people/37621241@N05/), on Flickr

 :bow: :bow: :bow:

Is that jwi and slackers at the front with hands in pockets.

i don't know how anyone with an interest in the progress of our sport can fail to be be interested in the progress being made on this route.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 11:49:12 am
No, I'm just our of shot on the right, walking away.  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on February 01, 2013, 11:53:23 am

i don't know how anyone with an interest in the progress of our sport can fail to be be interested in the progress being made on this route.

Agreed on the whole, though as has been said before each to their own.

However I definitialy don't know why anyone who isn't interested would feel the need to come on a thread like this (the clue is in the title!) to tell the rest of us that they aren't interested.

Good video btw.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on February 01, 2013, 12:26:35 pm
Ondra is an animal but I'd really like sharma to tick this first
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 01, 2013, 12:37:52 pm
Wonder what the deal is with it being made private? Presumably given the two climbers involved the place is a veritable orgy of pro film makers. Did some amateur rock up at the bottom of the crag with his iphone and ruin the exclusivity?
     
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on February 01, 2013, 12:46:01 pm
How exciting, a hushup conspiracy!

Bigup using their brawn to force the little guy to stay quiet!

Down with the corporations! Placards at the ready!
:agree: :guilty: :guilty: :goodidea: :off: :spam: :spam: :oops: :agree: :offtopic: :offtopic: :sorry: :icon_welcome: :icon_welcome: :badidea:

Freedom of speech for the people!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on February 01, 2013, 12:54:28 pm
These guys are on board:

(http://www.dollyrouge.ie/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/FatherTedCarefulNow.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on February 01, 2013, 01:11:18 pm
Ondra is an animal but I'd really like sharma to tick this first
he is not going to though is he?  Ondra is clearly miles ahead no?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2013, 01:13:18 pm
But Sharma's put the time in; homeground advantage?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on February 01, 2013, 01:21:45 pm
was that chaxi raxi thing a sharma project originally?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 01:24:32 pm
Did some amateur rock up at the bottom of the crag with his iphone and ruin the exclusivity?
     

It is/was a decent vid (with 720p and 1080p options for playback on YouTube) and was using a tripod so probably not that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 01, 2013, 01:46:20 pm
Did some amateur rock up at the bottom of the crag with his iphone and ruin the exclusivity?
     

It is/was a decent vid (with 720p and 1080p options for playback on YouTube) and was using a tripod so probably not that.

Clearly, because amateurs never take HD camcorders or tripods to the crag these days, and easyclimbing.cz has high-profile partnerships with both climbers.

Not that I'm saying this is certainly an amateur job, it just looks like it probably is.

In any case, none of this should concern you, because it is distasteful, needless hype-building and no one has actually climbed anything yet.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 01, 2013, 01:52:09 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 01:58:03 pm

Clearly, because amateurs never take HD camcorders or tripods to the crag these days, and easyclimbing.cz has high-profile partnerships with both climbers.

Not that I'm saying this is certainly an amateur job, it just looks like it probably is.

Let me be a little clearer then...I very much doubt it was shot on a camera phone.

In any case, none of this should concern you, because it is distasteful, needless hype-building and no one has actually climbed anything yet.

I didn't say I wasn't interested in the process.  You are however correct that I think the over-hyping of it into a race/competition as it was initially reported on 8a.nu is distasteful though.  My experience is that climbers are generally supportive of each other, even when they are working on the same project/problem regardless of the level at which they climb.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2013, 02:01:34 pm
I didn't say I wasn't interested in the process.

Just playing the Devil's Avocado again?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 02:06:37 pm
Just playing the Devil's Avocado again?

More stating the obvious for Baldy who didn't realise that people are different.

 :off:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 01, 2013, 02:10:11 pm
Lovely, glad we got that little miscommunication cleared up then.

Let me formally welcome you back into the hype-building fold with this giant foam finger, I presume you'll be rooting for Sharma:


(http://ec.comps.canstockphoto.com/can-stock-photo_csp6224376.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 02:13:00 pm
Couldn't care less.

It'll be impressive when either of them get up it (which is where my interest lies rather than the faux competition).

 :offtopic:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on February 01, 2013, 02:36:38 pm
Quote
Cliff Burton was an amazing bass player....until the tour bus he was travelling in crashed throwing him out the window and crushing him when it toppled onto him.

 :off:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 01, 2013, 03:07:29 pm
Sorry thought about that afterwards and realised I should have used Wolfgang Gullich as an example.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on February 01, 2013, 04:10:25 pm
Ondra is an animal but I'd really like sharma to tick this first
he is not going to though is he?  Ondra is clearly miles ahead no?

He looks to be.

I too would like this to be Sharma's swan song, or am I writing him off too early?

re: competition

It's a great thing, I couldn't care less about what 8a.fu says as I just dont read it. Hell even unfriendly competition is good in my book, there be legends and controversy. Life would be crap if we all got along.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 01, 2013, 04:14:08 pm
Teaser: Reel Rock - La Dura Dura (The Hard Hard) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtqkA8lZquE#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ducko on February 01, 2013, 05:22:05 pm
Be interesting too see who gets it it'll be awsome when either climber does to be honest,
Just think it would be nice to see sharma smash it
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 01, 2013, 05:37:19 pm
Worth posting here as well...

aruD aruD aL (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=588aedmbPs0#noexternalembed-ws)

Cusp @ 1.34
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 01, 2013, 05:45:32 pm
Yeah here may be better.... Cheers
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 01, 2013, 06:20:32 pm
Gonna be weird seeing the moves the right way round (yes I did google for desktop mirroring but didn't find much help in my short patience span). Nice interviews.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 02, 2013, 10:42:21 am
Ondra in battle mode. Love it
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2013, 03:00:57 pm
Battle mode? Is he Prince Adam with a Sword of Power then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on February 07, 2013, 04:41:33 pm
according to Joe Kinder on twitter, he's sent la dura dura.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 07, 2013, 04:47:49 pm
 :popcorn: I wanna see it! Hate to buy into the whole sharma vs ondra thing but was kinda egging on sharma in the reel rock clip
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on February 07, 2013, 04:50:28 pm
confirmed: http://instagram.com/p/Vb8Zf0Ozqq/ (http://instagram.com/p/Vb8Zf0Ozqq/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2013, 04:50:43 pm
................................ :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on February 07, 2013, 04:53:54 pm
picture caption says worlds hardest sport route, 9c???
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2013, 04:54:31 pm
Harder 9b+ than the other 9b+, duh.

OR MAYBE IT COULD BE 9c OMGZ0R  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 07, 2013, 05:13:29 pm
 :great: :dance1:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2013, 07:10:57 pm
So Sharma still came away with a consolation prize. Winners all round.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on February 07, 2013, 07:30:41 pm
He's given it 9b+ but says its harder than Change.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 09, 2013, 03:11:18 pm
http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/two-friends-for-a-9b-adam-ondra-la-dura-dura-interview (http://novebi.ning.com/profiles/blogs/two-friends-for-a-9b-adam-ondra-la-dura-dura-interview)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 09, 2013, 04:07:31 pm
Found these quotes from the interview with Ondra interesting:
'... after two weeks of working the same route, it is very difficult to make further progress. That was quite surprising to me. The 3rd and 4th weeks on La Dura Dura were completely pointless, I was climbing one level below and no matter how efficiently I climbed, I couldn’t and didn’t progress.'

'If you don’t feel close after two or three weeks, better to give up for a while, train specifically for it and get back on it. Body will forget how to move in the route, but in a couple of days it is back.
Climbing a certain grade within 10 days of work doesn’t mean that you would climb another level if you worked for a year.'
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on February 09, 2013, 04:55:48 pm
Per spray.nu, Ondra made the 2nd ascent of Sharma's 9b route Fight Or Flight today.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on February 09, 2013, 06:48:56 pm
Per spray.nu, Ondra made the 2nd ascent of Sharma's 9b route Fight Or Flight today.

Machine!!   :bow: :bow:



Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 09, 2013, 06:50:12 pm
Per spray.nu, Ondra made the 2nd ascent of Sharma's 9b route Fight Or Flight today.

Anyone know if thats in a day?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 10, 2013, 02:55:21 pm
Quality ok if you select HD

Lots of rests - skip to 1.00 and 4.00 for the meat of the climbing.

Adam Ondra-Fight or Flight 9b, [url=http://www.easyclimbing.cz]www.easyclimbing.cz (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45xlTby_S2A#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on February 10, 2013, 03:52:34 pm
Fantastic display of controlled aggression for the leap at 4:25 or so...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on February 10, 2013, 05:26:49 pm
Fantastic display of controlled aggression for the leap at 4:25 or so...

Especially as he had skipped the clip before it. He would have taken a mighty pisser if he hadn't made the move.  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 10, 2013, 07:45:38 pm
Impressive trip! 9b+ and 9b...!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on February 10, 2013, 09:38:56 pm
Impressive trip! 9b+ and 9b...!

And a (wet) 9a+ at the start of the trip.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 10, 2013, 09:43:32 pm
A vid from 1 year ago. Been posted before but I missed it last time. 9b machine. From about 10.15 he gets a little pumped...

VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra repeating Chilam Balam (9b) and making the first ascent of La Planta de Shiva (9b) in Spain on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/25514787)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 10, 2013, 09:49:26 pm
Two 8cs onsight in Cuenca
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 10, 2013, 10:59:32 pm
I don't know what's supposed to be cutting edge anymore. If next week Ondra did the FA of a 9b+, o/s'd an 8c+ and flashed a 9a+ I'd probably not be that surprised.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on February 11, 2013, 09:17:30 am
 :agree:

Someone needs to stop him.

He is breaking the sport - I thought these things were supposed to be hard?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 11, 2013, 10:36:23 am
Two 8cs onsight in Cuenca

They seem to be old-school offerings. If I get this
http://Desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-rel-calvario-del-sicarior-8c-a-vista (http://Desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-rel-calvario-del-sicarior-8c-a-vista)
right, El calvario del sicario has lost a few holds and is perhaps hard for its grade?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on February 11, 2013, 12:00:26 pm
Hopefully so, otherwise Ondra's onsight of an 8c is as newsworthy as myself doing a fingerboard session.
Anyway, he got to Cuenca at 4.30 in the morning, after a 9b+ and a 9b with just one day off, and he onsighted two hard 8c...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 11, 2013, 12:33:09 pm
I can't believe it's got to the point that his 9a/9a+ ascents are hardly news...!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 13, 2013, 11:47:51 am
Useful site (http://www.adamondra.com/) for Ondra-watch.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: psychomansam on February 13, 2013, 11:56:14 am
:agree:

Someone needs to stop him.

He is breaking the sport - I thought these things were supposed to be hard?

Still not onsighted 9a. Weak as a kitten.  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 13, 2013, 12:00:38 pm
The flash of Southern Smoke Direct (9a+) was quite impressive though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 13, 2013, 12:10:06 pm
:agree:

Someone needs to stop him.

He is breaking the sport - I thought these things were supposed to be hard?

Yeah he's singlehandedly knackering the grade bellcurve. And pushing me right out the bottom.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 13, 2013, 12:33:01 pm
not only is he ruining the curve.
he also has sick dance skills that attracts all the ladies.
(http://i.imgur.com/g1Uok.gif)
(sorry for the repost

maybe we should all give up now?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on February 13, 2013, 02:06:37 pm
Yes, maybe we should. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14977.msg386593.html#msg386593)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on February 13, 2013, 02:16:12 pm
Well worth a re-post.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 13, 2013, 02:19:36 pm
And pushing me right left out the bottom.

 :P :geek:  :-*

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on February 14, 2013, 12:58:39 pm
Still no cigar for Ondra.

Full on 9a onsight attempt in Cuenca. Pretty intense viewing this

ADAM ONDRA intenta a vista Palestina 9a en Cuenca (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Moz11eR8rEY#ws)

He tried another one the next day but apparently his foot slipped low down 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 14, 2013, 04:08:33 pm
Ondra in failing to onsight 9a SHOCKER!

Such a beast, 55kg of pure syke.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 17, 2013, 09:15:48 am
Ondra profile (http://www.guardian.co.uk/theobserver/2013/feb/17/adam-ondra-climbing-czech-dura-profile) (nod to cofe and Nathan wind for the heads up).

Love the nod to Potter comparison (possibly UKB originated meme?).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bubba on February 17, 2013, 09:33:59 am
With the inevitable bitchy comments below about how it's not Trad (no shit).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 17, 2013, 09:37:35 am
Yeah, shame its likely to get cluttered up with such shit.  :wank:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on February 17, 2013, 12:32:21 pm
The fucking Indian Face  :wall:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 17, 2013, 12:34:09 pm
The fucking Indian Face  :wall:

It only took 3 posts as well! Amazing.  :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 17, 2013, 03:21:45 pm
Its like the climbing version of Godwin's Law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godwin's_law) isn't it.


Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on February 17, 2013, 04:01:58 pm
That's a very well researched and well written article for a mainstream paper, nothing about hanging from his fingertips or lack of safety ropes!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on February 17, 2013, 04:24:59 pm
Its like the climbing version of Godwin's Law (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godwin's_law) isn't it.

I had a comment ready to post suggesting the same thing but couldn't be arsed as I knew I'd have to go an check any responses and what a waste of energy that would be.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 19, 2013, 08:36:20 pm
Ondra writes about La Dura Dura (http://lasportiva.com/news_approfondimento0.html?&L=1&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=1747&cHash=0f3030bfa962120e73cf223903d73725)

Quote
nothing happened except clipping the chains of my hardest route up to date, and possibly the hardest in the world!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 26, 2013, 01:03:33 am
Adam Ondra en Somos cromosomos un proyecto que podría ser tan dura como La dura dura 9b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMgnR2cKug#ws)

Apparently at least as hard as La Dura Dura.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on February 26, 2013, 08:32:31 am
Adam Ondra en Somos cromosomos un proyecto que podría ser tan dura como La dura dura 9b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMgnR2cKug#ws)

Apparently at least as hard as La Dura Dura.

Awesome footage! Looks like it'll go very soon.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 26, 2013, 09:48:48 am
I bet Barrows is going to spunk himself senseless at the sight of that kneebar rest  :lets_do_it_wild:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: El Mocho on February 26, 2013, 10:03:28 am
That sequence around the roof looks awesome!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 26, 2013, 06:48:25 pm
Shitting hell that looks amazing. Not afraid of a run out is he!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 28, 2013, 03:57:48 pm
Adam Ondra en Somos cromosomos un proyecto que podría ser tan dura como La dura dura 9b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMgnR2cKug#ws)

Apparently at least as hard as La Dura Dura.

A translation from Reddit...

Quote
Post take:

Now, I am 2/3 the way through the climb. I have already climbed 20 meters of overhanging 9a/+; however, from here to the chain is 8 meters of 9a. In all, it could be 9+. perhaps this means 9b+? I think it needs even more work to send, but it's motivating. It's a good line with good movement - it motivates me to train and to return. It's difficult to compare with La Dura Dura because they are completely different styles. This is much more of an endurance climb because you have to do a very hard sequence at the top of the climb. While the crux of Dura Dura was harder, it was down low, while this one is at the top

Commence climbing

It's a big lateral movement to a sloper. You have a bunch of feet, but they're all terrible. After, there is a big move to a crimp with a thumbcatch. It's very difficult when you're tired to grab it perfectly, and if you don't grab it perfectly, you can't do anything off it. The crimp is very bad.

Voice-over stops, then he falls

The most difficult single movement is down low - because I'm fesh, it feels much easier then when I'm up here, super pumped. Here is the key section to the route. You get here super pumped and even though here there are two crimps that are good enough, you can't rest much. I think it's better to run it to the top. Here is a flat sidepull and here there are many feet to choose from, but now I don't know which are the best. Down low, there are good feet to make a move to pinch this crimp, but it's very hard to catch it perfectly. If I use the low feet, it's really hard to move them up - alternatively, if I start with the high feet, it's way harder to catch the pinch/crimp, but it's much easier to move my feet up aferwords. After, there are two dynmaic movements where you can definitely fall. All this to get yourself to the anchor not sure about the lest sentence. It sounds like he says "A un presento al fin" ... I dunno

Makes the moves and clips the chains

Resting, it's easy. After climbing the whole route... I don't know whn the next [estancia] is. Perhaps when his next trip is? Hopefully in two weeks. I don't know if I will be able to send, but I'm excited and hopeful
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on February 28, 2013, 08:32:10 pm
Some Ondra humour..

http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k (http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k)

(from Willackers via Faceache)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2013, 06:52:12 am
Me too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 01, 2013, 07:49:28 am
+1

Someone should make that video.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on March 01, 2013, 07:32:28 pm
Interview with Adam Ondra at f.re.e Munich 2013 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60809511)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on March 02, 2013, 02:53:48 am
Good interview
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dontfollowme on April 30, 2013, 09:58:34 pm
Incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: James Malloch on April 30, 2013, 10:34:15 pm
Incredible.

You say that but one route was "a mere 9a" and he implied a lack of strength after getting "a little pumped" on a 9a+...

Crazy climbing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on May 01, 2013, 04:01:04 am
I thought I understood climbing until I saw this video
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 01, 2013, 07:44:09 am
Change the Movie (http://www.change-movie.com/video)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 01, 2013, 10:53:11 pm
Some mad Quarryman-esque action around 6:00

Brilliant. The sequence at the start, repeating the 9a+ in Slovenia in the damp, shows more clearly than anything else I've seen just how hard hard climbing really is. And that disappointingly easy 9a thing in the cave in Czech is just amazing.

If these were outtakes from The Wizard's Apprentice then somebody's editing judgement is really called into question.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on May 03, 2013, 07:57:33 am

If these were outtakes from The Wizard's Apprentice then somebody's editing judgement is really called into question.

 :agree:

Also I hope all the footage of the new film 'Change' won't be released on the internet as clips before the film is released.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on May 08, 2013, 05:46:14 pm
Another 8c+ onsight: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68039 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68039)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on May 08, 2013, 07:07:42 pm
 :yawn: another?... Can't even onsight 9a... Wonder what monstrosity of a route he will try in Norway....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on June 17, 2013, 09:38:05 am
Promo for 'Change'.

North Norway looking glorious. I want that house on the Fjord (... for three months of the year).

Adam Ondra - Change - Backstage movie (http://player.vimeo.com/video/68469466)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on June 17, 2013, 11:24:46 am
Looks like it will be a very good film all round.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on July 09, 2013, 12:17:13 pm
From Montura's Facebook page:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004058_581445771907129_2024218066_n.jpg)

“It was my challenge for more than two years”, with these words Adam Ondra has announced his first 9a onsight. The route is called “Cabane au Canada” on the cliff of Rawyl, Switzerland. Another great achievement made by the Montura athlete, who once again amazes us with his talent, diligence and determination.

 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on July 09, 2013, 12:22:07 pm
From Montura's Facebook page:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1004058_581445771907129_2024218066_n.jpg)

“It was my challenge for more than two years”, with these words Adam Ondra has announced his first 9a onsight. The route is called “Cabane au Canada” on the cliff of Rawyl, Switzerland. Another great achievement made by the Montura athlete, who once again amazes us with his talent, diligence and determination.

 :bow:

Awesome! I knew it wouldn't be long!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on July 09, 2013, 12:25:45 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on July 09, 2013, 12:26:27 pm
 :bow:
was only a matter of time
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 09, 2013, 12:26:46 pm
I thought he might run out of onsightable 9as to try. Glad he got one
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on July 09, 2013, 12:51:13 pm
I thought he might run out of onsightable 9as to try. Glad he got one
me too, fantastic  :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on July 09, 2013, 01:06:28 pm
Hurray!  :2thumbsup: I've missed Ondrawatch...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on July 09, 2013, 01:33:31 pm
Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240 (http://www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamieG on July 09, 2013, 01:50:18 pm
Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240 (http://www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240)

The photos from facebook looks like the Flatanger (sp?) cave in Norway where he did Change.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on July 09, 2013, 01:51:11 pm
Looks Awsome...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on July 09, 2013, 02:59:03 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on July 09, 2013, 04:40:16 pm
Legend, glad he's got one. Imagine the sound effects were epic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on July 09, 2013, 04:46:05 pm
Judging by the photos in the 8a.nu gallery of the crag, I don't think that's a photo of the route, which looks awesome:
www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240 (http://www.8a.nu/gallery/Image.aspx?ImageId=77240)

That looks incredible. Presumably he's run out of single pitch 9a's to try by now  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 09, 2013, 05:15:43 pm
(http://www.lizardclimbing.com/medien/fotos/news/artikelfotos/IMG_0444.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on July 12, 2013, 01:25:41 pm
Interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41039)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 12, 2013, 01:44:54 pm
Quote
I saw it for the first time last night, in the last rays of sun it looked absolutely amazing and I knew I just had to climb it. I was so excited I couldn't fall asleep, even though I knew I had to wake up early.
Good lad :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 12, 2013, 03:25:55 pm
Quote
Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn't that worried because I then found out that it wasn't even in the guidebook. I then ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.

Inspirational words from the bigman
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 12, 2013, 10:11:07 pm
My french is shaky (I had german in school) but Kairn reports (?) (http://www.kairn.com/fr/escalade/89505/ondra-realise-la-premiere-de-l-integrale-de-torture-physique-9a-b.html) that Adam Ondra onsighted Torture Physic, 9a, just before doing La cabane, but downgraded it to easy 8c+. He also did a fa of an extension of Torture at 9a+/b
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on July 15, 2013, 04:59:19 pm
This picture needs more explanation. Or has it caught the secret of Ondra's success on camera? A pre-climb ninja gurn, for strength?

(http://j.ukc2.com/i/223497.jpg?v=5324)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 15, 2013, 05:00:55 pm
Demonstration of crux move :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on August 05, 2013, 04:55:37 pm
Has it now got to the point that a new 9b isn't news where Ondra is concerned?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263)

Tough crowd!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on August 05, 2013, 05:01:06 pm
that's a cracking photo, rose et le ondrawad
Title: Re: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 05, 2013, 07:42:00 pm
that's a cracking photo, rose et le ondrawad

It is. Although crossing through off a minging crimp to a flared finger lock looks a tad harder than the Rose's nice juggy drilled pockets!

How times change.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on August 05, 2013, 07:56:53 pm
Has it now got to the point that a new 9b isn't news where Ondra is concerned?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68263)

Tough crowd!

Ondra has succeeded in making 9b boring, surely one of his greatest achievements.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on August 06, 2013, 07:59:31 am
I was lucky enough to see him on this last week. Amazing route, took a load of pictures that I can post up when I get them off my camera.
Flatanger is a special place. The limited climbing I did was top quality and what's left to do defies belief.
Ondra is in love with the place and I is spending the rest of the summer there.

Great place for the family as well, good biking, good walking, boating, canoeing and great fishing. Pretty much lived on fresh fish.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on August 15, 2013, 03:15:57 pm
(http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/19428.jpg)

Quote
Adam Ondra attempting the upper crux on the new project at Flatanger in Norway. Photo by Seb Bouin
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on August 15, 2013, 03:54:57 pm
I power squawked in sympathy when I saw that picture..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on August 16, 2013, 10:22:11 am
Flatanger is a special place. The limited climbing I did was top quality and what's left to do defies belief.
Ondra is in love with the place and I is spending the rest of the summer there.

Great place for the family as well, good biking, good walking, boating, canoeing and great fishing. Pretty much lived on fresh fish.

Sorry  :offtopic: but what level of development has Flatanger seen? Are there climbs in the 7s for the average punter? Or is it all 8s and 9s?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on August 16, 2013, 10:57:16 am
The development there is in its infancy but there is enough there to keep most happy for a few weeks as long as you like to redpoint stuff, if you want a ticking onsighting trip you would run out of stuff to do. Loads of very good 6s both bolted and trad on the crags outside the cave.

In the cave there is basically  around 10 routes of most ranges ie low 7s, high 7s, low 8s, high 8s etc. However i would think that there will be more and more rapidly, its not due to lack of rock, or that there is no scope for 7s and 8s, but due to lack of development. There is a crag just round the corner that must be three times the size of Kilnsey without a route on it.

Berit and Olav Strom that own the place are incredibly friendly and welcoming, treating my kids like there own including taking us out fishing in there boat. They are keen on pushing the whole climbing thing and opening up new crags and developing the campsite, which at present is a field and the use of there own downstairs bathroom in the farmhouse. They have produced a guidebook and now have a Facebook page.

I personally fell in love with the place, as did Helen and the kids who don't really climb, there is something a bit magical about it, a bit like Ceuse was in the late 80s early 90s. We were not on a climbing trip but i couldn't resist a look as we were passing, ended up staying for 4 days even though i only climbed for about 3 hours one morning. Rest of the time was fishing, biking and walking.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 16, 2013, 12:12:13 pm
In the cave there is basically  around 10 routes of most ranges ie low 7s, high 7s, low 8s, high 8s, soft 9bs etc
HTH. Sounds really nice, good report.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SEDur on August 16, 2013, 03:59:24 pm

Berit and Olav Strom that own the place are incredibly friendly and welcoming, treating my kids like there own including taking us out fishing in there boat. They are keen on pushing the whole climbing thing and opening up new crags and developing the campsite, which at present is a field and the use of there own downstairs bathroom in the farmhouse. They have produced a guidebook and now have a Facebook page.

For the lazy among us, have you got any links?
Whats the area like for walks/MTB/Fishing etc?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on August 16, 2013, 04:19:18 pm
I do not have the technical ability to link to a facebook page sorry. i am sure you can find it. Full photo sequence of his last 9b on my facebook page but agin i have no idea how i get them on here.

The fishing is out of this world if your even vaguely competent and i have no doubt i could easily live off fish there. We had Cod to over 6lbs casting about 50 yards with a spinning rod, pollock and mackerel all day long. great spot 10mins from the campsite. If your really into it check out fishing in Flatanger, the Brit and German anglers have been going there for years on package deals and catch Cod to 40lbs, Halibut to 5 0lbs  Pollack over 20 from the shore regularly. There is a big angling festival there every year in Feb for the very reason that its so good. Nearby Namos has the best Salmon fishing in the world, but it costs. Trout and pike in pretty much every lake and there's lots.

Check out this video from the area if your really interested (my youngest is obsessed)

Fishing In Norway 50 Pound Halibut Caught From Shore (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nbaPI8KLlw#ws)

I didnt get off road on the bikes as with the kids but i cant believe its not good. The walking is superb but little in the way of paths. however you can go where you want as there is full public access to all land.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on August 16, 2013, 04:46:03 pm
I do not have the technical ability to link to a facebook page sorry.[/url]

At the top of your browser is an address bar that starts with 'http://', copy this when looking at the relevant page (whether its Farcebook or anything else).  Click on the line, then press Ctrl + A to select it all followed by Ctrl + C to copy it.

Then paste it into a forum message (Ctrl + V to paste).

Hit submit and the link will appear in your post.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on August 16, 2013, 05:08:02 pm
Tried that and it didnt work only the links came up. Tried something else and got this. Think it works but you have to click to open.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1175549_430908887023728_301845164_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/972336_430908763690407_1751973782_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/561536_430908670357083_1734809742_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002494_430908547023762_979018419_n.jpg

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on August 16, 2013, 06:13:42 pm
Tried that and it didnt work only the links came up. Tried something else and got this. Think it works but you have to click to open.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1175549_430908887023728_301845164_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/972336_430908763690407_1751973782_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/561536_430908670357083_1734809742_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002494_430908547023762_979018419_n.jpg

Good pics. Ondra's got a pretty amazing t-shirt tan going on there...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on August 21, 2013, 12:28:51 pm
From 8a:

Quote
9b or 9b+ FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger
 
On his last day in Flatanger, Adam Ondra made the FA of Move and it will be either 9b or 9b+. Now Adam is going to start his University studies
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SEDur on August 21, 2013, 01:04:55 pm
If where-ever Mr Ondra goes to university, has a climbing club; I feel jealous of those who will get to climb with him.
They will learn so much.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on August 21, 2013, 02:27:52 pm
I don't think Mr Ondra will be part of his university's climbing club...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2013, 02:34:31 pm
Be an interesting Fresher's weekend if he does. I somehow doubt toproping diffs at Stanage will be on the agenda.

And great he got it done!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on August 21, 2013, 07:26:15 pm
I reckon he's going to start Uni, stop climbing and get heavily into techno and going out on the raz.

 :pissed:  :dance1:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 21, 2013, 08:06:32 pm
Czechs must like some pretty beastly techno I reckon  :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2013, 09:47:41 am
We've seen his moves out on da 'floor. They aren't going to get him any.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on August 22, 2013, 04:13:58 pm
Few words from the boy/man/god himself: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68293 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68293)

9a in to a bad rest in to another 9a. Sounds pretty tricky.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on August 23, 2013, 10:50:54 pm
Working Move:

ADAM ONDRA - WORKING MOVE 9B/+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72992600)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 23, 2013, 11:05:45 pm
Just bloody great  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wil on August 23, 2013, 11:28:03 pm
Holy shit. I was watching thinking he's making this look really fluid, then he hit that crux. Looks bonkers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: douglas on August 24, 2013, 12:09:35 am
If he bulked up a bit and got stronger in the body, Ondra could climb harder.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on August 24, 2013, 01:48:56 am
sounds like he needs some contrast training
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on August 24, 2013, 08:28:59 am
Fucking punt doesn't know what's good for him, letting his deadlifting slide all this time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on August 24, 2013, 10:24:15 am
If he bulked up a bit and got stronger in the body, Ondra could climb harder.

Huh? What are you talking about? For his length Ondra has very good core strength. I have almost never seen him sag.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on August 24, 2013, 09:26:17 pm
Good video.

Quote from: Adam Ondra
The route can be divided into two sections; 35m of pumpy 9a, and then 10m of really bouldery 9a, which doesn't sound that bad...

Hmmm....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 24, 2013, 09:51:30 pm
45m of pumpy 9a....  :chair:

Serious business. Love watching him climbing, particularly the transition from warp-speed fluidity to shoulder-massacring bouldering. Love the syke as always.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on August 26, 2013, 07:38:20 am
From the actual ascent of Move (well, bar some 8b climbing in the start)

Adam Ondra - Move - First ascent.mov on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73040942)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on August 26, 2013, 04:33:29 pm
That is so freakin fast. :o

In "A few forgotten 9a's" there was a section i thought was sped up. Now i'm not so sure
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on August 26, 2013, 04:43:51 pm
the sequence at 3.01 was :ninja:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on August 26, 2013, 08:26:34 pm
 
:bow:

his climbing just seems to get better and better, soo impressive
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on September 26, 2013, 08:49:34 am
Pair of new 9a+s to add to the collection.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68373 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68373)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on September 26, 2013, 09:38:03 am
What is the world coming to, when two 9a+s is barely news?

(See also "Sharma repeats Australian 8c". As a warm up, presumably)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nash1 on September 26, 2013, 11:25:56 am
It is outrageous.
Until Flatanger and Ondra happened to Norway there were only 4 8c's in the country, only one of them has been repeated by someone other than Ondra.
He has basically dragged the country in the modern era alone. Pure class.

I wonder if anyone will ever put in the effort to repeat these things? It is not exactly Catalunya up here?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on September 26, 2013, 11:46:33 am
I think a lot of the routes up there have been repeated, up to 9a anyway. Plus 9a first ascents by others. Re the harder 9a+ > routes dont see many of them getting repeated that often in catalunya either.

I think this place with be the "go to" summer venue for the top boys within a year or two. Ticks all the boxes. If i had lots of free time again its where i would head over ceuse.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on September 26, 2013, 07:09:23 pm
This stat on 8a.spray blew me away:

Quote
In total, the 20 year old has now done 82 9a's and harder, which is more than double than the runner up, Chris Sharma, on this list. The number of 9a+ and harder is 28, out of which 19 is FAs.

Wonder how many grade 9's he'll have done by the time he reaches age 40.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on September 26, 2013, 08:45:55 pm
Since you asked...since 2008 he's held pretty steadily at around 12.5 grade 9s per year. Assuming he doesnt go on a binge and start doing 30 9as in a year he'll have done about 330 9s by the time he's 40 (guessing a fair chunk of those will have to be FAs!)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 26, 2013, 09:08:36 pm
Not far off 100 9's  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on September 26, 2013, 10:39:30 pm
Since you asked...since 2008 he's held pretty steadily at around 12.5 grade 9s per year. Assuming he doesnt go on a binge and start doing 30 9as in a year he'll have done about 330 9s by the time he's 40 (guessing a fair chunk of those will have to be FAs!)

he might cut down on the 9a's though, and focus on the 9b+'s and 9c's
then again, by that time he might be doing 9a's for warm-ups
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianto9 on September 26, 2013, 11:41:39 pm
he still needs to go do hubble, big bang liquid amber i.e some of the originals, then get his ass kicked on the diamond then re-grade everything ha,he seems unstoppable
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on September 27, 2013, 02:18:08 pm
YEAH!

Whats he done on Stanage? Fucking punter.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on September 27, 2013, 02:24:42 pm
I cant see him coming back soon unless Steve does his thing at Malham. He loved malaham and Kilnsey but generally thought that Ravens tor was "not the best crag i have ever been too" or something along those lines.

I dont know if he ever ventured down to Wales to be rained on during his visits, i am sure he would be just blown away by the cave!!!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on September 27, 2013, 02:53:19 pm
He'd be blown away by The Diamond - it's world class. (and he could put up new routes at 9a and above there without them being link-ups...  :P)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on September 27, 2013, 02:55:19 pm
I cant see him coming back soon unless Steve does his thing at Malham. He loved malaham and Kilnsey but generally thought that Ravens tor was "a pile of shit" or something along those lines.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 27, 2013, 03:40:55 pm
Pile of shit or not, he couldn't even do all the moves on Hubble, and he's capable of bouldering 8b/+ in the middle of a 50 meters route.
I'd rather do Hubble than La Dura Dura or Change or any other route in the world.
No doubt about that.
But I'm just me.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on September 27, 2013, 04:38:19 pm
Even more so now it's going to have the cachet of being the worlds' first 9a. That should attract more interest from foreign wads for a start.

... so they can drive past the Tor without realising 'that's it'.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on September 27, 2013, 04:46:05 pm
And then once they've realised that is the Tor then have the massive disappointment of being shown where Hubble goes...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on September 27, 2013, 04:50:26 pm
Pile of shit or not, he couldn't even do all the moves on Hubble, and he's capable of bouldering 8b/+ in the middle of a 50 meters route.
I'd rather do Hubble than La Dura Dura or Change or any other route in the world.
No doubt about that.
But I'm just on crack.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 27, 2013, 04:59:39 pm
Pile of shit or not, he couldn't even do all the moves on Hubble, and he's capable of bouldering 8b/+ in the middle of a 50 meters route.
I'd rather do Hubble than La Dura Dura or Change or any other route in the world.
No doubt about that.
But I'm just on crack.
I wanted to write a response revolving around the fact that one can't kneebar his way up Hubble, but being a gentleman, I won't.
 :tease:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on September 27, 2013, 05:11:12 pm
(http://i2.wp.com/climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/DaveGrahamOnTheRoadInTheUK_7ED9/davegrahamhubble.jpg?resize=540%2C359)
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lzza8nhQI11r2ubiyo1_500.jpg)

You quite sure about that..?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 27, 2013, 08:14:59 pm
Don't give him ideas Nibs ;) well he won't come to LPT on Alex Megos's recommendation that's for sure.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 28, 2013, 10:56:46 am
Graham didn't do it, so...
Good eyes, by the way, Alex. I'd seen that pic many times and I'd never noticed the kneepad. We see what we want to see, I guess.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on September 28, 2013, 04:34:08 pm
It would truly be a sad day indeed if Hubble was reduced in stature by some kneebaring faggotry like another well known test peice.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ian dunn on October 08, 2013, 06:16:00 pm
Ondra's been at it again two 8c+ boulders V16 check out the video ADAM ONDRA 2 V16s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeR47AQ05Jo#)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on October 08, 2013, 06:20:24 pm
Couple of years old I think.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on October 08, 2013, 07:29:37 pm
god supernova looks rubbish...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 09, 2013, 09:19:36 am
Couple of years old I think.

The ascents are old so not new news, but the video itself was only posted online by Reel Rock on the 7th October 2013 (probably part of one of their previous Reel Rock Tours and being used to promote the upcoming 8th Tour).

god supernova looks rubbish...

Its Terranova in that video. Adam says its not an aesthetic line.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on October 09, 2013, 09:45:47 am
god supernova looks rubbish...

Its Terranova in that video. Adam says its not an aesthetic line.
[/quote]

doh.

still didnt realise it was quite that low...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 09, 2013, 09:11:57 pm
Terranova looks like something Gaskins would find on Peak Limestone  :shit:

Goia looks very impressive, great footage on that!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 220bpm on October 09, 2013, 09:46:02 pm
First time I've seen Gioia from that angle, didn't realise quite how overhanging it is.
Beautiful line and the moves look horrendous, yet also delicious :)

That other thing is a turdbucket masquerading as a V16. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on October 09, 2013, 10:06:41 pm
It's not as if they lingered on Terranova!
- It's at his local crag.
- He say's it's not the best but you learn something form every climb.
- even if it's shit it's till a fuckload harder than anything we will ever climb.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: i_a_coops on October 09, 2013, 10:23:18 pm
Well I think Terranova looks cool....  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Footwork on October 09, 2013, 11:41:32 pm
No kneebars though Ian ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 10, 2013, 12:02:17 am
Good film. Always said Core should have had more recognition for that problem. He was way ahead of the game.

Any other confirmed 8C+ problems in the world?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on October 10, 2013, 10:25:47 am
Core is a proper beast. There are many fun stories from when he used to compete!
From my personal point of view, if it weren't for his religious-karmic-hippish whispered ramblings (the likes of "God is a boulderer"...) he would be a true idol of mine.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Dave Flanagan on October 10, 2013, 10:37:35 am
Core is a proper beast. There are many fun stories from when he used to compete!
From my personal point of view, if it weren't for his religious-karmic-hippish whispered ramblings (the likes of "God is a boulderer"...) he would be a true idol of mine.

Sound man too. Met him very briefly in Magic Wood years ago. Had a chat and he showed us the moves on an 7a we where tying. Needless to say he made it look pretty easy.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on October 10, 2013, 11:01:50 am
Core is a proper beast. There are many fun stories from when he used to compete!
From my personal point of view, if it weren't for his religious-karmic-hippish whispered ramblings (the likes of "God is a boulderer"...) he would be a true idol of mine.

Wise words at the end there though, "the gifted have great responsibility" etc.

Luckily it turns out Adam Ondra is the most motivated person ever.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on October 10, 2013, 11:01:52 am
In the video even though he wasn't the main focus he certainly seemed like a gentleman. I actually enjoyed the way he spoke as well.

If he's actually a bit kooky I'm glad I don't speak Italian - he comes across as quite a cool dude in the little I've seen of him.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on October 10, 2013, 11:05:26 am
I've heard in an interview (not yet released) that Paul Robinson said Gioia is "a grovelly sharp shit traverse" (think I've got the exact quote from memory...).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 10, 2013, 11:25:27 am
I talked to a fox about grapes, he did not like them. Said they were sour
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2013, 11:41:08 am
I've heard in an interview (not yet released) that Paul Robinson said Gioia is "a grovelly sharp shit traverse" (think I've got the exact quote from memory...).

You sure he wasn't referring to Terranova?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 10, 2013, 11:41:11 am

Wise words at the end there though, "the gifted have great responsibility" etc.



I thought that was nonce sense.  You could be a very gifted climber, but if you never even try climbing you wouldn't know you were gifted so why should or how could you be shouldered with a responsibility for a gift you don't know you have?

Even if you do participate in whatever you happen to be "gifted" at, theres no obligation for you to continue doing it at all.  Its the individuals life and if they'd rather go and pursue other activities thats entirely their business.

I talked to a fox about grapes, he did not like them. Said they were sour

 :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 10, 2013, 11:58:35 am
Any other confirmed 8C+ problems in the world?
Splitting hairs here, but are people classing Gioia as confirmed 8C+? Core originally suggested 8C (http://www.climbing.com/news/possible-v15-in-italy/), Ondra suggested 8C+ (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D8161).

Wise words at the end there though, "the gifted have great responsibility" etc.
Would have been better if he'd done the voice...

"With great power comes great responsibility"

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/9/9b/Yoda_Empire_Strikes_Back.png) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltaire)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on October 10, 2013, 12:05:51 pm
I've heard in an interview (not yet released) that Paul Robinson said Gioia is "a grovelly sharp shit traverse" (think I've got the exact quote from memory...).

You sure he wasn't referring to Terranova?

Definitely Gioia. Not sure if he's tried Terranova.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on October 10, 2013, 01:26:55 pm
Would have been better if he'd done the voice...

"With great power comes great responsibility"

Uncle Ben's "With Great Power comes Great Responsibility" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-o308cW0hKI#ws)
I'm pretty sure Yoda never said this. Spiderman's uncle on the other hand.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 10, 2013, 02:18:44 pm
"With great power comes great responsibility"
I'm pretty sure Yoda never said this. Spiderman's uncle on the other hand.

I think you're right, though it seems to be an internet meme. I guessed someone might spot this - click the Yoda picture above for an earlier source than Spiderman. I can't prove it via youtube though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on October 10, 2013, 03:01:56 pm
I talked to a fox about grapes, he did not like them. Said they were sour

So good!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2013, 07:47:18 pm
That ll be why Robinson didn't do Gioia, because it's shit. Not that it was too hard or anything...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nick B on October 10, 2013, 07:52:26 pm
 :jab:
That ll be why Robinson didn't do Gioia, because it's shit. Not that it was too hard or anything...

Seem I remember he didn't have anything good to say about Livin Large either...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2013, 07:55:18 pm
:jab:
That ll be why Robinson didn't do Gioia, because it's shit. Not that it was too hard or anything...

Seem I remember he didn't have anything good to say about Livin Large either...

And that's blatantly shit!  :shit:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2013, 08:13:32 pm
I get the impression the top boys are not in agreement about the existence of 8c+. Nalle tried Gioio too and he reckons we haven't hit 8c+ yet. It could be that they're all bitter about getting spanked by a sport climber though  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 10, 2013, 09:29:35 pm
Yeah fucking stamina punter Ondra  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on October 22, 2013, 01:08:34 pm
Some slightly disappointing news (http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Klippe/Ticklisten-til-verdens-beste) (I think so anyway) - sounds as though Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock. Maybe he's sick of FA's and is waiting for someone else to put up a route hard enough for him to bother trying...

Still, suffice to say he'll probably get a bit done in those "couple of short trips"!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on October 22, 2013, 01:21:48 pm
I get the impression the top boys are not in agreement about the existence of 8c+. Nalle tried Gioio too and he reckons we haven't hit 8c+ yet. It could be that they're all bitter about getting spanked by a sport climber though  :ras:

So Nalle didn't send Gioia  and says that? that doesn't make any sense.
Send it and then make your thoughts known, otherwise shut up.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 22, 2013, 01:24:04 pm
Ondra will be focussing on comps next year rather than rock.

This has been on the cards for a while. Wouldn't be surprised if he comes out of it even stronger than before, which can't be a bad thing for the future of sport climbing.

It would be interesting (though probably unlikely) to see some of the current comp beasts take a year off and focus on outdoor FA's. Wonder what Rustam or Dmitri could achieve it they set their minds to it...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on October 29, 2013, 12:36:10 pm
Three 9as in a day. Proper ones as well.
All a bit unbelievable really.
And hardly anyone bats an eyelid now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 29, 2013, 12:38:09 pm
 :great:

Daniel Jung, The Elder Statesman (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdqAV-ZkXfU#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 29, 2013, 12:51:27 pm
Quote
Adam Ondra had an amazing day yesterday in Frankenjura where he quickly did three 9a's;
The Elder Statesman, "Close to flashing, fired it off 20mins later. Thanks for beta Alex! 1st 9a of the day."
The House of Shock, "Tough bouldering on tiny holds... 2nd 9a of the day, the hardest of the three.
Sever the Wicked Hand, "Tried two days before in severe humidity, now did it 1st go while clipping the draws in. 3rd 9a of the day, even though this one must be pretty soft."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on October 29, 2013, 01:13:34 pm
9a putting the clips in.  8)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on October 30, 2013, 10:33:46 am
Doing just one 8a as a warm-up doesn't warm my fingers enough. (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41338)  :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 30, 2013, 12:39:10 pm
I guess it's possible when your top grades 9b+. Still ridiculous though
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 04, 2013, 12:46:39 pm
First comp, first victory.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 04, 2013, 01:16:25 pm
vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnNblXHorKQ&feature=share&t=41m31s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnNblXHorKQ&feature=share&t=41m31s)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GraemeA on November 04, 2013, 01:35:03 pm
The trip over the light was classic.

He was one happy bunny.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on November 04, 2013, 01:48:39 pm
Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GraemeA on November 04, 2013, 02:08:34 pm
Are the comps just to top up his bank account or a sponser's thing? (or both)

No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).

he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on November 04, 2013, 02:41:16 pm
No he was genuinely pleased to be competing (and winning).

he is at university now so doesn't have time for trips to eg Flatanger so he is doing the comps including the full circuit next year

Fair play, sounds like it would be ideal with him being in University.

Any idea what he's studying? I find it strange to think he'd carry on studying when he could clearly live off climbing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on November 04, 2013, 02:48:15 pm
I guess with climbing (and most sports) you are one very bad day away from retirement. So worth while getting a back up plan.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: John Gillott on November 04, 2013, 02:59:49 pm
He might enjoy his studies / find them worthwhile as well (see also Landman).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on November 20, 2013, 12:24:26 pm
Interview

http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2014/adam-ondra/ (http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2014/adam-ondra/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 20, 2013, 12:42:35 pm
The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: north_country_boy on November 20, 2013, 12:55:19 pm
The yanks still call Biographie the worlds first 9a+ ignoring Akira (unconfirmed) and Open Air (confirmed).

The yanks  believe a lot of things which are factual incorrect and/or false.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on November 20, 2013, 02:01:08 pm
to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 20, 2013, 02:06:38 pm
to be fair, huber graded id 9a. Ondra upgraded it in 2008, and i doubt many 'yanks' are aware of this.

No excuse for not doing the research  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sasquatch on November 20, 2013, 05:06:28 pm
Nah, it's classic Yank ego.  Sharma was the first to do 9a+, so therefore the others don't exist.  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 20, 2013, 05:13:10 pm
I was going to say something similar but you're better qualified in that respect.... :-)
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on November 20, 2013, 05:14:49 pm
Didn't someone recently go and do Akira or was that just a beautiful dream?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 20, 2013, 05:16:08 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 20, 2013, 05:27:05 pm
Nah, it's classic Yank ego.  Sharma was the first to do 9a+,   5.15 a so therefore the others don't exist.  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 20, 2013, 05:28:56 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

I think it's fair until Realisation is spelt properly (not with a bloody z!)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on November 20, 2013, 05:32:06 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.

It's the French way, the equipped names the route not the first ascentist. La plafond is another example.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mark on November 20, 2013, 07:14:03 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

Which is sort of ironic.

It's the French way, the equipped names the route not the first ascentist. La plafond is another example.

Irony upon irony, I think the variant on Plafond was a long-standing project known as Super-Plafond. But when Jibe did it, he renamed it. He called it La Lune Dans Le Caniveau (The Moon in the Gutter) to get a bit of Gallic revenge for Ben's antagonistic route names: Agincourt and Maginot Line.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on November 20, 2013, 08:26:55 pm
There's also the classic French ego which demands that the route still be called Biographie.

I think it's fair until Realisation is spelt properly (not with a bloody z!)

Correct spelling depends on how geeky you want to be...

http://grammarist.com/spelling/realise-realize/ (http://grammarist.com/spelling/realise-realize/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on November 20, 2013, 09:31:43 pm
Quote
Irony upon irony, I think the variant on Plafond was a long-standing project known as Super-Plafond. But when Jibe did it, he renamed it. He called it La Lune Dans Le Caniveau (The Moon in the Gutter) to get a bit of Gallic revenge for Ben's antagonistic route names: Agincourt and Maginot Line.

I saw a guide to Volx this summer that had it in as Super Plafond
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mark on November 20, 2013, 11:07:48 pm
I saw a guide to Volx this summer that had it in as Super Plafond

As you wrote, the name in France is given by the equipper, so Jibe's rename never caught on.

Anyone know what Agincourt is known as in France?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on November 22, 2013, 02:31:39 pm
Ondra's apparently working First Round, First Minute, with some footage:

http://climbingnarc.com/2013/11/remember-first-round-first-minute/ (http://climbingnarc.com/2013/11/remember-first-round-first-minute/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 22, 2013, 03:16:05 pm

Anyone know what Agincourt is known as in France?

I don't think the project had a name. Have only ever seen it referred to as Azincourt by the French so that's one name that did stick!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 04, 2013, 08:23:53 pm
3rd 9b+. Guess that puts him on 27g or something.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68562 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68562)

Quote from: that traitor Bjorn Pohl whose big number news is wasted on the other channel
Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Vasil Vasil, 9b+, a route he bolted himself five years ago at Sloup in the Czech Republic.

According to his 8a-scorecard, it's a short route which starts with a 7 meter burly 8b section the leads straight into an 8B+ boulder section. It's more or less a "one move route" as the key move is at least 8B in its own right.

Adam also says it's by no means a great line, but rather painful and short, and in a dirty place "but it was there... and I couldn't leave it unclimbed".
This was Adam's third 9b+ first ascent, after Change andLa Dura Dura.

Sounds like he has been taking inspiration from the Mighty G - did you give him a sneak preview of the interview, sharkle?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on December 04, 2013, 11:31:53 pm
The length of that report makes me think that the next 9b+ he does might just get a passing nod.

9b+ = 4 short paragraphs of aknowledgement...

Is that apathy?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 05, 2013, 09:58:32 am
Is that a path?

To him yes.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 05, 2013, 10:26:50 am
The length of that report makes me think that the next 9b+ he does might just get a passing nod.

9b+ = 4 short paragraphs of aknowledgement...

Is that apathy?

I'd speculate that ,at this time, anything more would be pure speculation
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2013, 10:37:21 am
Updated item on UKC now. God it actually looks like Peak Limestone  :sick: Good effort tho.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on December 05, 2013, 10:56:07 am
its beautiful

(http://i.ukc2.com/i/231520.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2013, 11:10:31 am
Thank god for UKC non-hotlinking :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Krank on December 05, 2013, 11:13:50 am
damn you ukc
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on December 05, 2013, 11:44:13 am
''It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a "piece of shit" ''


Love this attitude, he should visit the cave.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 05, 2013, 12:13:49 pm
damn you ukc

Just rehost on imgur/yfrog/imageshack
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 05, 2013, 12:18:24 pm
I think most people can probably cope with going to ukc if they really want to see a picture
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 05, 2013, 12:24:25 pm
I'm sure they can Chris, had I thought it worth embedding here I would have rehosted it myself and done so.

However, my previous post was for Krank's benefit who seemed mildly riled at having been foiled in his attempt to embed the picture.  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 05, 2013, 02:58:00 pm
Ondra on Flatanger & Change (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/adam-ondra-flatanger-norway-bolting-worlds-hardest-routes-hanshelleren)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2013, 04:18:22 pm
Good stuff.

"The most impressive line is what he calls Project Big, estimated to be 5.15c."

Strong name  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 06, 2013, 10:00:15 am
Excellent, that "piece of shit" 9b+ looks like it could be at Rubicon. And he spent over 20 days on it.  :2thumbsup: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on December 06, 2013, 11:08:19 am
someone send him a picture of Brandenburg gate. So if he will come for that then he can finally tick hubble as a warm up
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 06, 2013, 08:48:18 pm
I'm glad he's not a snob . I hate climbing snobs
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianto9 on December 06, 2013, 09:16:36 pm
''It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a "piece of shit" ''


Love this attitude, he should visit the cave.
ha would love to see him on the ormes thou
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 06, 2013, 10:11:58 pm
someone send him a picture of Brandenburg gate. So if he will come for that then he can finally tick hubble as a warm up

He's already said he can't do the crux of Hubble. I'd prefer him not to attempt it again so I can still say I've burnt off the best climber in the world in a really random, obscure and basically incorrect way.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on December 06, 2013, 10:19:28 pm
I also can't do the crux of Hubble so I consider myself on a par with Ondra in that respect.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on December 06, 2013, 10:50:28 pm
He's already said he can't do the crux of Hubble. I'd prefer him not to attempt it again so I can still say I've burnt off the best climber in the world in a really random, obscure and basically incorrect way.

I have "flash La Marie Rose" on my to-do list for a much less impressive version of the same contrived reason.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 11, 2013, 04:13:10 pm
(http://eveningsends.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/MG_8858.jpg) (http://eveningsends.com/2013/12/climb-perfectly-watch-adam-ondra-chris-sharma-send-reel-rock-8/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on December 18, 2013, 04:52:00 pm
First ascent Nove G (9a), Gemona in Italy (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41454)

Adam Ondra - NOVE G - a new 9A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_tIfmrFl-U#ws)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 19, 2013, 12:10:41 pm
Looks cool, some good crimping going on.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ianv on December 19, 2013, 12:44:15 pm
Quote
Before his evening lecture Ondra ended the day by attempting Effetti Colaterali but he fell, twice. It's worth noting that this is a tough 8c, that it was already dark and that Ondra was climbing with a headtorch...

 :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on December 19, 2013, 01:06:30 pm
Quote
Before his evening lecture Ondra ended the day by attempting Effetti Colaterali but he fell, twice. It's worth noting that this is a tough 8c, that it was already dark and that Ondra was climbing with a headtorch...

Training for the one-day push on the Dawn Wall has apparently begun
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on January 27, 2014, 01:26:59 pm
LA DURA COMPLETE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WydHviTrYrI#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cb_6 on January 27, 2014, 02:41:35 pm
*awesome photo of Ondra on La Dura Dura*

Something that has often occured to me when watching climbing videos is that they often don't convey just how steep many of these really hard routes are. I don't know if it's just me, but on video La Dura Dura simply doesn't seem quite so overhanging (hardly surprising, given the angles the cameras are being pointed at). When you see a photo like this where the camera is balanced, the lens is nearly horizontal and the quickdraws on other routes act as a reliable reference for the angle, it really does hit home.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: miso soup on February 04, 2014, 12:06:35 am

I have "flash La Marie Rose" on my to-do list for a much less impressive version of the same contrived reason.

I stupidly decided to cross that off my to-do list as the light was fading at the end of my sixth day on.  Blew the flash, obviously.

Also, Ondra did First Round First Minute.

http://www.rocanbolt.com/2014/02/adam-ondra-encadena-first-round-first.html?m=1 (http://www.rocanbolt.com/2014/02/adam-ondra-encadena-first-round-first.html?m=1)  (in Spanish)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on February 04, 2014, 07:38:48 am
From the Spanish article:
"Lo que por cierto me diò lo que me faltaba para encadenar la via, ha sido hacer sprints."
A-ha.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on February 04, 2014, 08:12:17 am
Also, Ondra did First Round First Minute.

9b+ climber redpoints 9b shock  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 04, 2014, 08:23:35 am
Also, Ondra did First Round First Minute.

9b+ climber redpoints 9b shock  ;)

Thats what the article says  ;)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on February 04, 2014, 12:58:56 pm
Interview with Adam Ondra about red-pointing First Round, First Minute (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41550)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 17, 2014, 03:05:44 pm
A year old film....

z A do B / From A to B on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49708424)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on March 18, 2014, 08:21:31 am
Totally daft ethics making for some entertaining danger there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on March 19, 2014, 05:40:38 pm
Adam visiting the Peak District in April (http://www.outside.co.uk/latest/news/La-Sportiva-Weekend-at-Outside-26-and-27-April-2014)

Hope he has another go at Hubble too as well as stifling the most annoying question on FUKC.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Robsons on March 20, 2014, 11:37:23 am
That's what I thought, but I've been told he is headed to the grit!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on March 20, 2014, 09:47:34 pm
That's like taking a formula 1 car rallying!

(deleted banger race, I like grit)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: horn on April 26, 2014, 12:22:30 pm
Ondra's been spotted in Hathersage, fiddling with black mastercams, green x4's and folded over rock 10's. Wonder where he's off to this afternoon?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on April 26, 2014, 03:48:51 pm
https://twitter.com/lyonequipment/status/460043001373655041/photo/1
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2014, 04:09:11 pm
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BmJmrBMIcAAcAWB.jpg)
(to save you loading up the twitter link)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2014, 04:10:12 pm
And reading Horns thread further down - you can chat about it with him if you give him a lift to Heathrow this evening!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on April 26, 2014, 04:19:38 pm

No banana costume no tick  :rtfm:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 26, 2014, 05:39:34 pm
He had an hour on Hubble this morning , kept falling off the last move but was so pushed for time he didn't have chance to have decent rests between go's.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: horn on April 26, 2014, 05:48:29 pm
(http://distilleryimage8.ak.instagram.com/51b3ac1ccd5c11e387cb0002c955bd28_8.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: RopeBoy on April 26, 2014, 06:11:49 pm
 :smart:

Masters Edge, Balance It Is, Messiah and the Knock, not bad for an afternoons cragging in less than ideal conditions.

J
Title: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on April 26, 2014, 06:40:17 pm
I'd just like to confirm that I also didn't do Hubble today.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2014, 06:46:08 pm

I'd just like to confirm that I also didn't do Hubble today.

Was that you trying it in a Banana suit?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on April 26, 2014, 06:50:57 pm
Dunno how Ondra does it. If I had groups of people following me about waiting to see whether or not I fail on a route it would put me right off my stroke. Even at my punter level I could learn a thing or two about putting the ego aside sometimes and just giving things a shot.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on April 26, 2014, 07:10:18 pm
Enough of this, can anyone confirm that Adam got to the airport safely?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 26, 2014, 07:30:32 pm
:smart:

Masters Edge, Balance It Is, Messiah and the Knock, not bad for an afternoons cragging in less than ideal conditions.

J

Not much of a drama when you climb 9b+
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Neil F on April 26, 2014, 08:22:29 pm
So, how many people round here have had one of their routes repeated by the Ondrawad.....    :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on April 26, 2014, 08:31:34 pm
He did messiah and another E7 at least according to @lyonequipment
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on April 26, 2014, 08:56:19 pm
Maybe Master's Edge or Balance It Is?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on April 26, 2014, 09:22:10 pm
:smart:

Masters Edge, Balance It Is, Messiah and the Knock, not bad for an afternoons cragging in less than ideal conditions.

J

Not much of a drama when you climb 9b+

Or 8b+?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on April 30, 2014, 07:00:25 am
Neil Gresham's Facebook status -

"It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement. After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raventor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns. Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on April 30, 2014, 11:04:33 am
Word is that as a warm up he bolt to bolted up Mutation.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2014, 12:26:13 pm
Mutation is surely the big 2nd ascent to do in the UK. 1999 it was put up wasn't it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on April 30, 2014, 01:05:58 pm
'98 I think.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on April 30, 2014, 03:06:36 pm

Neil Gresham's Facebook status -

"It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement. After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raventor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns. Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."

Hyperbolic twaddle anyone?
Is this not describing "getting in a quick session before work?"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on April 30, 2014, 03:13:34 pm

Neil Gresham's Facebook status -

"It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement. After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raventor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns. Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."

Hyperbolic twaddle anyone?
Is this not describing "getting in a quick session before work?"

+1

Getting in quick sessions and fitting climbing around life is something most of us find normal...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2014, 03:25:32 pm
In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."

Oh ambassador you do spoil us!

Dealing with limited time and shit connies, welcome to the real world.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on April 30, 2014, 03:55:23 pm
Come on guys, Gresham's post might come across as overly fawning, but he was obviously blown away by Ondra's performance/psyche. And it's not like he hasn't seen a few decent climbers o'er the years.

As someone who is massively time pressured I'm still impressed that he dragged his ar*e out of bed after just a few hours sleep to try it before a day of presumably having to be personable with the general public.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 30, 2014, 05:27:41 pm
I agree with T_B. Great effort by Ondra (I'd have got a few more hours kip instead) and Greshams' write up is good.

I thought I was cynical, poor show!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on April 30, 2014, 05:29:14 pm
Stop hating on the G. :clown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on April 30, 2014, 05:41:46 pm
Stop hating on the G. :clown:

Love to all the G's  :-*
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: GCW on April 30, 2014, 05:52:22 pm
Love to all the G's  :-*

Cheers  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on April 30, 2014, 06:35:13 pm
Oh, so in the "real world" people get two hours of sleep, then get on Hubble in poor conditions getting to the last hold several times, all before hopping on a plane?
If that wasn't being a great ambassador of climbing, I don't know what it could be.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 30, 2014, 07:14:29 pm
Lazy cunt Ondra and shame on Gresham for letting people know. Wankers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on April 30, 2014, 07:56:14 pm
To be fair to Adam I remember Blackpool Sam going to font and not doing anything
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on April 30, 2014, 09:57:19 pm
Sorry for my slight sarcasm, ondra is clearly a hero of the first order and it is great he is still keen to climb other people's hard routes ( hubble is clearly nails).  The ambassador thing just seemed a bit silly
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2014, 09:23:58 am
The ambassador thing just seemed a bit silly

+1. There are loads of people out there who do a hell of a lot more, and received a lot less accolades for their effort.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 01, 2014, 10:21:05 am
The ambassador thing just seemed a bit silly

I agree, but in the context of them both being sponsored by La Sportiva (and others) its clear why it was said.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on May 01, 2014, 10:53:33 am
I agree, but in the context of them both being sponsored by La Sportiva (and others) its clear why it was said.

Yes absolutely, is it depressing that that is the first thing that popped into my cynical little brain too?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 01, 2014, 11:16:30 am
is it depressing that that is the first thing that popped into my cynical little brain too?

Not to me.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2014, 12:54:02 pm
I agree, but in the context of them both being sponsored by La Sportiva (and others) its clear why it was said.

Yes absolutely, is it depressing that that is the first thing that popped into my cynical little brain too?

That hadn't crossed my mind. More cynical than me, impressive!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 01, 2014, 03:28:04 pm
Who are these people that do a hell of a lot more than ondra? The mans a climber and he happens to be, quite easily arguably, the best on earth.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2014, 04:05:06 pm
Fuck me, so now what people are saying is that Ondra and Gresham are both doing their jobs well. Again, shame on them! This isn't cynicism it's plain stupid.

And what Dense said.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: miso soup on May 01, 2014, 04:47:21 pm
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 01, 2014, 05:11:07 pm
Come on Jasper-Dense, I think you're missing the point being made which is that yes, Ondra is one of the great 'ambassadors' of climbing, but it's not because of relative trivialites like going to the tor early in the morning after a flight. He should be doing that sort of thing.  Plenty of people considered 'ambassadors' out there who don't crank 9 or 8 anything, it's not all about climbing hard. More often the sort of selfless work to improve something outside the self or devotion to mastery for the sake of mastery. I think that's what jars with some (not me) in that tweet - it implies to be considered an ambassador is to get up early and try hard after a flight - that someone else paid for - whilst on a quick work trip (which you're getting paid for). Not exactly selfless.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 01, 2014, 06:13:39 pm
I'm not arguing about any of that, grades are meaningless as well. I don't care if he climbs 2a the point, well not even a point, was he's a climber and he took it upon himself to go climbing. After his sponsors had paid for him to come here on a flying visit for work, he didn't need to go and try Hubble he didn't need to go to millstone. He could have got someone with ID to buy him a nice pint and just gone home after a job well done. But he did what most people would do ie climb after/before work, he just did it earlier and better than anyone else would/could have done.
I've not heard him doing anything else since leaving hathersage, so did he get to the airport ok?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 01, 2014, 07:10:23 pm
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.

Yes and yes
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 01, 2014, 07:37:06 pm
I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.

Yes and yes

What about the airport?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shurt on May 01, 2014, 07:49:59 pm
All of this aside its still Hubble 3 Ondra 0
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 01, 2014, 07:59:54 pm
Has everyone missed the bombshell in that write-up or am i grossly out of touch and it is old news?

AFAIK it is the first time that it gets 'confirmed' that Hubble is 9a. I know, he hasn't done it yet, it was humid and hot, etc. but...  :worms:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 01, 2014, 08:04:21 pm
He said it was 9a last time he tried it too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 01, 2014, 08:07:26 pm
Has everyone missed the bombshell in that write-up or am i grossly out of touch and it is old news?

AFAIK it is the first time that it gets 'confirmed' that Hubble is 9a. I know, he hasn't done it yet, it was humid and hot, etc. but...  :worms:

Its in the draft of the definitive guide at 9a so it must be definitive 9a.

The only person that questioned it was Grimer but apparently he's shit on undercuts.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 01, 2014, 08:12:41 pm
All right. I thought last time he said it was 'likely' 9a. All i can find is The world's first 8c+, which could be easily even 9a in my opinion

Oh well, back under my bridge
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 01, 2014, 08:25:57 pm
All right. I thought last time he said it was 'likely' 9a. All i can find is The world's first 8c+, which could be easily even 9a in my opinion

Oh well, back under my bridge

Big question is whether it is Font 8B+
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2014, 08:59:34 pm
Nobody ever questioned the 8B+ grade. Or E10 7b actually.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 01, 2014, 09:04:59 pm
Or E10 7b actually.

That would have kept a lid on E9s with french 7c climbing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2014, 09:08:30 pm
Don't go there Pete! *can of worms smiley*

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 01, 2014, 10:24:33 pm
can we keep this on track as an ondrawad thread pls?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 01, 2014, 10:37:43 pm

Nobody ever questioned the 8B+ grade. Or E10 7b actually.

In V grades please ;)

Anyway to get back to the thread  - great effort... To have the psyche to get up at 5am to scratch up some gizzy damp peak lime shows a high level of commitment and interest. Bravo.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 01, 2014, 10:50:24 pm
No surprise as he's  got a sense of history. Hope he gets chance to finish it off sometime.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2014, 10:56:57 pm
can we keep this on track as an ondrawad thread pls?

It is as far as I'm concerned. Find it rather ukc/surprising/pathetic that it's been hijacked in this way.

Mind you, this is someone who's climbed most of the hardest routes in the world, on film rather than an "enigma".

Go figure.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 02, 2014, 06:18:42 am
No surprise as he's  got a sense of history.

Speaking of history: the three grit E7s all onsight? Most grit E7s ever onsighted in a day(*) by anybody?

(*) in an afternoon, after very little sleep, nearly repointing Hubble mutliple times in poor conditions in the morning, then a day's work
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: horn on May 02, 2014, 10:02:37 am

I'm confused by the timeline now, did he do all the E7 on-sights after work on the same day he didn't do Hubble?  That would be more impressive than any of it, I don't even go to the wall after two hours sleep and a day at work.

Yes and yes

Technically, he onsighted three E7s on his lunch break!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 04, 2014, 08:42:52 pm
Second 9a onsight for Ondra. Il Domani in Baltzola ?? First person to onsight 9a and Masters Edge in the same week  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 04, 2014, 09:36:26 pm
 :bow:

Where'd you see that?

I'm just glad he got to the airport OK.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: EdGowSmith on May 04, 2014, 09:45:00 pm
Patxi Usobiaga's Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1472879386279045&set=a.1417026105197707.1073741831.100006709924542&type=1&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1472879386279045&set=a.1417026105197707.1073741831.100006709924542&type=1&theater)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 04, 2014, 09:56:35 pm
Patxis Instagram
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on May 05, 2014, 01:46:11 pm
Il Domani. 9a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/18099325)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2014, 02:02:30 pm
There's an article on UKC too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 05, 2014, 02:14:57 pm
There's a good interview with Adam over on Desnivel today.

Apparently he misread the crux section sequence and did it harder than it was meant to, and the knee-bar rest that comes after that and before the other 'hard move' was wet and couldn't use it to rest properly on it. He thinks the way he did it still wouldn't warrant 9a+ though, but...  :weakbench:

Ah, and he's now going to start training properly for the first time apparently. His coach? Patxi Usobiaga. He'll be competing in both the boulder and lead WC this year. Dear lord   :popcorn:

Interview here for those who can withstand google translate or can understand spanish http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-il-domani-su-segundo-9a-a-vista-en-baltzola (http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-il-domani-su-segundo-9a-a-vista-en-baltzola)

Correction: He's only competing in 1 boulder WC. I was listening to the audio interview and missed that...  :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 05, 2014, 10:26:06 pm
9b+ climber on mid sevens: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGnzI6WmsEg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGnzI6WmsEg#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 06, 2014, 06:35:33 am
As an aside: what did alpine wad Pietro dal Prà do on grit? Just belay Adam?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 06, 2014, 10:27:17 am
Onsighting is gooooood  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: coziosco on May 06, 2014, 01:48:07 pm
As an aside: what did alpine wad Pietro dal Prà do on grit? Just belay Adam?

Bouldering for Pietro at the plantation on Sunday with Jim Pope. No routes, not enough time on the Saturday with belaying, rock shoe fitting clinics, driving around. He's in the background of this...


Jim Pope on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/93376908)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 06, 2014, 11:48:42 pm
Onsighting is gooooood  :2thumbsup:

Oh for fuck's sake Fiend. Stop banging that drum.

It's about as entertaining as the annoying hippy at a rave with a bongo who everyone humours for a bit and then leaves on his own for the remaining ten hours while they go and have fun.

Ondra onsighting E7 is like me onsighting a VS slab, irrelevant and really easy.

We all get that you think any sort of practicing a route prior to climbing it is anathema but the best climber in the world pissing a few easy grit routes doesn't prove your point.

It's boring. I'm bored with it. Go make more badly dressed, awfully soundtracked bouldering films instead. Those are good as at least  they make my son laugh.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on May 07, 2014, 02:54:58 am
I'll have a pint of what Jasper's had pls barkeep
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 07, 2014, 08:59:26 am
A video of J climbing a VS slab whilst playing bongo's to a thrash metal sound track could work though... ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 11:04:51 am
Jasper you can be really quite unintelligent sometimes. No offense or anything.

I wasn't banging any drum nor making the point you mistakenly think.

The point I was making was that it is nice to see a leading foreign climber, unused to trad climbing, choosing to onsight some "safer" grit routes, rather than automatically headpointing much harder bolder routes, as is often the way for leading foreign climbers unused to trad climbing.

Ondra onsighting E7 is just as irrelevant and really easy as Ondra headpointing E10. I'm just celebrating that he chose to do the former because it seems the less common choice to me.

It really is as simple as that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 07, 2014, 11:07:33 am
Yeah I must have imagined all those other posts of yours.  :yawn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 11:10:49 am
No you didn't, but yes next time I will make it clearer when I'm giving an innocuous appreciation of a climber's ascents (i.e. this case - although I did think the simplicity and positivity of my post was enough) compared to when I'm vigorously standing up for principles (other cases).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bonjoy on May 07, 2014, 12:46:59 pm
Hats off to the genius on the Ondra video who's blagged a lock of his hair. A priceless redpoint talisman indeed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 01:06:41 pm
Should it be encased in liquid amber? Or woven into a beanie?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 07, 2014, 02:48:24 pm
A type of tree? (as well as an 8c+ on LPT).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 03:04:37 pm
Jurassic Park - Pull Focus - Review & Criticism (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjjPCNbNQSY#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2014, 03:15:37 pm
Should it be encased in liquid amber? Or woven into a beanie?

Single strands should be woven into an accapi type top. Imagine the possibilties.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 07, 2014, 03:24:34 pm
The possibilities that that bollox might actually work for a....Change??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2014, 03:33:21 pm
As much chance as (allegedly) weaving platinum group metals into it. I can imagine the Ondrafibretm being able to extert enough force that even the most "heavily built" climber is compressed so their mass is reduced to that of the flyweight master himself.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 07, 2014, 03:44:40 pm
Nice play on words there Fiend  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamieG on May 07, 2014, 06:14:35 pm
As much chance as (allegedly) weaving platinum group metals into it. I can imagine the Ondrafibretm being able to extert enough force that even the most "heavily built" climber is compressed so their mass is reduced to that of the flyweight master himself.

I could do with some of that . . . .
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 09, 2014, 09:29:44 am
like me onsighting a VS slab

when was the last time this happened?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 09, 2014, 09:47:37 am
I don't know but I know it'd still be easy.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tommytwotone on May 09, 2014, 10:52:39 am
I don't know but I know it'd still be easy.


Jas, next time you're up Yorkshire way give me a shout - I seem to remember this being pretty slabby...happy to hold your ropes and you can even borrow my size 4 and 5 cams!


http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158)


Look forward to videoing the ascent (and ensuing colourful language) - I don't have any thrash metal to soundtrack the video with, so we'll have to make do with Fleetwood Mac or Phil Collins.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 09, 2014, 11:21:11 am
I don't know but I know it'd still be easy.


Jas, next time you're up Yorkshire way give me a shout - I seem to remember this being pretty slabby...happy to hold your ropes and you can even borrow my size 4 and 5 cams!


http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90158)


Look forward to videoing the ascent (and ensuing colourful language) - I don't have any thrash metal to soundtrack the video with, so we'll have to make do with Fleetwood Mac or Phil Collins.

Don't listen to him Jas - 3T's gone potty and now likes doing things with ropes and *shudders* large cracks...

;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 09, 2014, 12:01:43 pm
I think it's just the start of Ondra building an inverted onsighting pyramid. a couple of E7s, a few E8s a bunch of 9s and all the 10s
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 09, 2014, 12:03:46 pm
Put the crack pipe down twotone. In what parallel universe is that monstrosity a slab?!

Anyway, this is seriously  :off:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 10, 2014, 11:25:32 am
 :o 9a onsight attempt

Adam Ondra en Psicoterapia 9a (Valdegovía) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6-La1pz1SU#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 10, 2014, 12:25:15 pm
How close was that. Unbelievable stuff!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on May 10, 2014, 12:38:05 pm
Awesome, great footage too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 10, 2014, 01:13:57 pm
Great. Nice to have a vid with no music, sponsors shizzle etc.. just captivating climbing. Brilliant.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on May 10, 2014, 02:13:14 pm
Amazing. Such decisive movement. Difficult to tell he's onsighting at times. Comparing this with the footage of Megos on UK lime really does leave you with the impression that Ondra is in a different league, even compared to someone who has also onsighted 9a.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on May 10, 2014, 02:38:06 pm
Amazing video.
The man is a machine.
I loved the final long rest just below the chain, that's truly smart and professional: good rest, take it! It doesn't matter that it's almost finished. "Almost" makes the difference.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 10, 2014, 02:48:18 pm
Onsighting is gooooood  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on May 10, 2014, 02:50:39 pm
Ahahahahahahahhahahahahahahhah!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 10, 2014, 03:38:31 pm
Wow! Some years ago I took some photos of a friend on that route. It looked harder then...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on May 10, 2014, 03:41:00 pm
Amazing. Such decisive movement. Difficult to tell he's onsighting at times. Comparing this with the footage of Megos on UK lime really does leave you with the impression that Ondra is in a different league, even compared to someone who has also onsighted 9a.

To be fair I saw Megos attempting to onsight l'odi social at siurana and he was the epitome of flow. Still fell off but that's the new style.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 10, 2014, 06:06:54 pm
Amazing. Such decisive movement. Difficult to tell he's onsighting at times. Comparing this with the footage of Megos on UK lime really does leave you with the impression that Ondra is in a different league, even compared to someone who has also onsighted 9a.

Goes without saying
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 11, 2014, 06:09:00 pm
You're only saying that because Ondra hasn't publicly dissed LPT.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 11, 2014, 06:23:16 pm
95 grade 9's and 14 8c+s onsight  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 11, 2014, 06:30:59 pm
95 grade 9's

Several of which are 9b's or 9b+'s, of which Megos has done none (I think?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 11, 2014, 06:31:57 pm
95 grade 9's

Several of which are 9b's or 9b+'s, of which Megos has done none (I think?)

Plus Caff did Unjustified quicker than him... Ok ill stop now  :P :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on May 11, 2014, 06:38:07 pm
We 're not seriously comparing Ondra with anyone else though are we :-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mark Lloyd on May 11, 2014, 07:46:35 pm
For all his 9a onsights and 9b red points he still hasn't done Hubble circa 1990 Benjamin "the daddy" moon
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 11, 2014, 07:52:57 pm
95 grade 9's

Make that 96.

That's 4 9's in 4 consecutive days. :blink:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 11, 2014, 09:06:14 pm
For all his 9a onsights and 9b red points he still hasn't done Hubble circa 1990 Benjamin "the daddy" moon

Or stretchers wall at Bowden doors.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on May 14, 2014, 11:52:09 pm
95 grade 9's

Make that 96.

That's 4 9's in 4 consecutive days. :blink:

I have amazement fatigue when it comes to these little nuggets of info. He pretty much 'goes cragging' at >8C+ whilst the best of the rest put together probably don't seem to match this frequency of hard ascents. I exaggerate, but not that much.

The real question is whether Ondra is just the first of many that can achieve this sort of standard, or whether he is just so far ahead that he may never be matched on a regular basis? The past few years give me the impression that it's the latter. Yet look at the standard-at-age achievements of Ashima, Kai and Mirko; he could well be the first of many. It must be strange for the 21+ish generation climbing at the current cutting edge, looking back at this tidal wave of youth ability. Interesting times.

Tangential thought: despite being the 'best climber in the world' for quite a while, Sharma didn't give us the first of any grade (probably, possibly?). Not that that really matters.       
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on May 15, 2014, 12:34:32 am
Tangential thought: despite being the 'best climber in the world' for quite a while, Sharma didn't give us the first of any grade (probably, possibly?). Not that that really matters.     

Wasn't Realization the first 9a+? At least the first without a whiff of controversy anyway (as I think Akira might have beat it).  And was Jumbo Love the first 9b?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 15, 2014, 06:55:28 am
the best of the rest put together probably don't seem to match this frequency of hard ascents. I exaggerate, but not that much.

Not very much at all. I checked the 8a.nu database a couple of weeks ago, at which point there were just over 70 ascents of 9a and above logged in the previous twelve months. Adam Ondra: 20, Ramonet: 10, Rest Of The World: the other half-ish

OK, Chris Sharma isn't in there but I don't get the impression he bangs the hard ascents out at quite the same rate.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 15, 2014, 07:03:51 am
Wasn't Realization the first 9a+? At least the first without a whiff of controversy

That, I think: plus the first obvious major classic at the grade at a non-obscure crag.

See also Joe Brown. Not the first person to climb "extreme" in the UK, but the first to knock out a string of obviously superb classics at the grade all over the place.[/offtopic]
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on May 15, 2014, 07:33:19 am
Noooo, Alex Huber did 9a+ long before. Fred Roulings was also doing similar things off difficulty back in the 90's. There was chilam balam (sp?) given 9b+ by Fernandez at the time but slightly downgraded to 9b by Ondra. Always seems strange that these ascents are ignored. Bit like j.dunne, maybe you could only climb hard if your were part of the in-crowd?
Take your point about a whiff of controversy but I believe there is no doubt over Huber's stuff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on May 15, 2014, 07:44:51 am
@ Moose:
First claimed 9a+: Orujo, Archidona, Spain. Climbed as 9a in 1998 by  Bernabé Fernández, reclimbed after removing 3 of its four artificial holds the grade went up to 9a+. Never been repeated/never got the credits it deserved (because of the artificial holds?).
First confirmed 9a+ Open Air, Schleierwasserfall, Austria climbed by Huber in 1996 and repeated by Ondra in 2008.
First claimed 9b: Akira, Eaux Claires, France by Rouhling in 1994.
First confirmed 9b: Chilam Balam, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. Claimed as 9b+ by  Bernabé Fernández, confirmed at (soft) 9b by Ondra.

From: http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/los-29-miembros-del-club-espanol-del-noveno-grado (http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/los-29-miembros-del-club-espanol-del-noveno-grado)
"1. Bernabé Fernández (6 novenos)

El escalador malagueño fue un fenómeno precoz y superdotado. A principios de la década de 1990 realizó las primeras españolas de un 8c (Harakiri, 1991) y de un 8c+ (Mojave, 1994). En 1998, lanzó la noticia de haber encadenado el primer 9a español con Orujo en Archidona. La polémica la cubrió desde el primer momento, debido al hecho de ser una vía notablemente 'manufacturada', con cuatro presas de resina añadidas. Después del encadenamiento, el mismo Bernabé Fernández decidió quitar tres de esas presas y volvió a encadenar la línea, rectificando la cotación hasta 9a+... era la primera propuesta de 9a+ del mundo, para una vía nunca repetida.

La polémica persiguió de forma virulenta a Bernabé Fernández años después, cuando anunció haber encadenado Chilam Balam en Villanueva del Rosario. En aquel entonces (2003), propuso un grado inédito de 9b+, pero nunca aparecieron testigos ni pruebas de aquella histórica ascensión. Adam Ondra en 2011 encadenó el larguísimo itinerario proponiendo un grado de 9b, sin dudar de la ascensión del andaluz ocho años antes."


Edit: Posted accidentally before finishing my typing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on May 15, 2014, 07:48:15 am
Never been repeated/never got the credits it deserved (because of the artificial holds?).

 Controversies aside.


Answered your own question there. Lots of scepticism about routes by BF I believe...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on May 15, 2014, 08:15:56 am
At the time I had a subscription to Desnivel, and despite the fact that they ran the news about Fernandez's routes, they also ran interviews to other climbers, and basically no one believed him. We were still far from the days of "it's either on video or it did not happen" but still, he gave few details of the ascents.
Andrada thought he never actually climbed Chilam. He went there and tried it, and despite the fact that Fernandez had affirmed having tried the route for more than a year, he could not find neither chalk nor rubber marks in any place.
This is what I read.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on May 15, 2014, 08:38:54 am
Was the Huber route (or routes) acclaimed as 9a+ at the time or have they been upgraded since - due mainly to Ondra finding them old skool hard?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 15, 2014, 08:42:12 am
At the time I had a subscription to Desnivel, and despite the fact that they ran the news about Fernandez's routes, they also ran interviews to other climbers, and basically no one believed him. We were still far from the days of "it's either on video or it did not happen" but still, he gave few details of the ascents.
Andrada thought he never actually climbed Chilam. He went there and tried it, and despite the fact that Fernandez had affirmed having tried the route for more than a year, he could not find neither chalk nor rubber marks in any place.
This is what I read.

I seem to remember that he demonstrated some pretty decent links on it to Ondra / Sharma not that this proves anything whatsoever other than that he had obviously attempted it a fair bit.

Bit like j.dunne, maybe you could only climb hard if your were part of the in-crowd?

 :slap:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on May 15, 2014, 01:26:38 pm
@Nibs: have you seen the video of Bernabe trying Chilam Balam in 1999? Nice pants. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX9D8X1C3yE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX9D8X1C3yE)

Bernabe has posted several vids of him climbing al least large PARTS of the hard routes he claimed. All of them seem really long i.e. (ultra-) endurance. Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit? 

More on: http://www.bernabefernandez.com/ (http://www.bernabefernandez.com/)
And: https://www.youtube.com/user/Rupicandu (https://www.youtube.com/user/Rupicandu)

@Moose: Open Air was claimed as XI or 9a by Alex Huber at the time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 15, 2014, 01:31:53 pm
Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?

Absolutely not. That's totally bull. There are plenty of routes on which can do all the moves and big links quite easily but will never be fit enough for.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on May 15, 2014, 01:39:45 pm
I only posted what I read...
 :shrug:
And despite the fact that the videos show probably fifteen moves on a 60 meters long route, those are NICE PANTS!!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lopez on May 15, 2014, 02:55:42 pm
First claimed 9a+: Orujo, Archidona, Spain. Climbed as 9a in 1998 by  Bernabé Fernández, reclimbed after removing 3 of its four artificial holds the grade went up to 9a+. Never been repeated/never got the credits it deserved (because of the artificial holds?).

 A bit more complicated than that... He claimed his sequence was 9a, so after he climbed it he sikaed a number of natural holds he claimed not to use, removed a bunch of the resin holds, took the hammer to yet more holds that Andrada was using, and called it 9a+ even though it hasn't been climbed since the facelift. (He re-climbed it before taking anything out but skipping holds) :wank:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 15, 2014, 03:12:55 pm
What kind of shit is that to do?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigtuboflard on May 15, 2014, 03:38:16 pm
Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?

Absolutely not. That's totally bull. There are plenty of routes on which can do all the moves and big links quite easily but will never be fit enough for.
+1. I've never been good on routes; I thought all the moves on Austrian Oak as an example were pretty easy, but never got close to linking it as only ever trained to boulder and train on a board, ran out of steam way before the top
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on May 15, 2014, 03:48:17 pm
I'm a route climber, and one who likes lots of easy moves in a row, and I still say +2 to what jwi said. I suspect HaeMeS was being tongue in cheek.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 15, 2014, 03:54:41 pm
Once you can do the moves and invest the time... you can climb the route innit?

Absolutely not. That's totally bull. There are plenty of routes on which can do all the moves and big links quite easily but will never be fit enough for.
+1. I've never been good on routes; I thought all the moves on Austrian Oak as an example were pretty easy, but never got close to linking it as only ever trained to boulder and train on a board, ran out of steam way before the top

Although I don't find the moves easy I first did links of overlapping halves a few years ago and maybe had 50 days on it since then and still not got the tick so cant be accused of not investing the time.

If you are pushing yourself a successful redpoint is never a certainty even if you can do big links let alone the individual moves. In fact Steve Mac said something to the effect of that you aren't playing the redpoint game properly if you only go on routes where the final redpoint is a certainty.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on May 16, 2014, 10:04:35 am
 :o :2thumbsup: :clap2: :bow:

Adam Ondra en Ira 9a - Baltzola (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16Mn3-8sfOI#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: EdGowSmith on May 21, 2014, 11:22:17 am
http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight)

Onsight of Il Dominia.

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on May 21, 2014, 12:02:45 pm
 :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: flyguy on May 21, 2014, 12:29:05 pm
That is absolutely amazing its hard to believe that it is onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on May 21, 2014, 12:44:28 pm
Brilliant. is that 98th at 9 or harder. Wonder if he's saving Hubble for his historic 100th?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on May 21, 2014, 12:46:01 pm
Wow.   :jaw:

Just phenomenal.  SOme of the other hard onsights of his, he almost looks like he's redpointing it he's so smooth. Definitely looks like more of a fight on this one.  It really seems like a new level has been reached by him and Megos.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: psychomansam on May 21, 2014, 02:14:19 pm
Does onsight mean someone else put the draws in?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 21, 2014, 02:40:51 pm
Yes, that's OK.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on May 21, 2014, 06:06:02 pm
Twitter rumours or disinformation hint at the great long necked one being back on Hubble... So I may be either breaking news or breaking bullshit :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on May 21, 2014, 06:25:27 pm
That's a great interpretation of a stick man bic drawing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on May 21, 2014, 07:07:25 pm
Twitter rumours or disinformation hint at the great long necked one being back on Hubble... So I may be either breaking news or breaking bullshit :)

More likely Sean McColl and the Mammut film crew
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on May 22, 2014, 11:27:31 am
That video is fucking incredible. So impressive.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 22, 2014, 11:50:26 am
Je suis d'accord. Also, I watched Ondra stroll up all the steep problems in the Insbruck world cup just before watching that video. Gives context to just how difficult the hard moves on it must be
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on May 23, 2014, 06:19:22 pm
these not posted here yet?

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/why-does-adam-ondra-scream-so-much-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-274/277436 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/why-does-adam-ondra-scream-so-much-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-274/277436)

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/where-does-adam-ondra-get-his-haircut-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-280/277468 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/where-does-adam-ondra-get-his-haircut-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-280/277468)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on May 23, 2014, 07:01:50 pm
http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-9a-il-domani-onsight)

Onsight of Il Dominia.

 :popcorn:

you lot have no morals,he blatantly touched that tree
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 23, 2014, 07:06:32 pm
McClure got a 8c onsight disallowed for that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on May 23, 2014, 07:57:40 pm
That cave remind you of anywhere  :-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on May 23, 2014, 08:07:17 pm
you lot have no morals,he blatantly touched that tree

Since when was tree-touching out?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on May 23, 2014, 08:13:10 pm
Oh Spain you're so fine, you're so fine you blow my mind, hey Spain! The climbing in Baltzola looks so damn good.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on July 09, 2014, 02:40:15 pm
The Wizard's Apprentice

www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7bqwgl87YU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7bqwgl87YU#ws)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on July 09, 2014, 03:10:32 pm
I doubt that will stay up for long  :whistle: (http://rg3.github.com/youtube-dl/)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 09, 2014, 11:41:25 pm
Errrrrrppppp. Trying to stop watching this and go to bed but it's really hard. Top stuff for the first 50 mins so far, will be buying this.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on July 10, 2014, 07:31:36 am
Better rename it "The wizard's master".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on July 10, 2014, 04:04:57 pm
Ondra not so wad appears to have failed to qualify for the semis in Chamonix. According to the scores on iSFC twitter feed he fell of the 3rd move of the 1st route.

Must have the footwork of Mark Leach.

Since he got a coach he seems to be going down hill in the comps.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 10, 2014, 09:16:51 pm


Ondra not so wad appears to have failed to qualify for the semis in Chamonix. According to the scores on iSFC twitter feed he fell of the 3rd move of the 1st route.

Must have the footwork of Mark Leach.

Since he got a coach he seems to be going down hill in the comps.

He forgot to clip the first draw. No problem with the actual climbing

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on July 10, 2014, 10:00:30 pm
You get disqualified for that!!!

Bet he is pissed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 10, 2014, 10:19:03 pm
Not that surprising given how many he skips on harder sport routes!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on July 11, 2014, 07:15:30 am
First Brazil get beaten 7-1 now this?!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on July 12, 2014, 03:07:51 pm
from ondra's 8a log:
"TCT" , 9a, at Gravere; onsight:
"nice satisfaction after the lost Chamonix World cup. A tribute to Tito Traversa first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi"

 and:
"La prophétie des grenouilles", 9a, at Fournel :"Soft, Second GO   ALMOST second 9a onsight in one day! broke a hold after the crux!"

 :bow:

same day, at different crags, in different countries no less,
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on July 12, 2014, 05:30:27 pm
The mind boggles.
Now only breaking holds will stop him onsighting 9a's on a regular basis. He's redefining the discipline.
What a legend.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 12, 2014, 06:36:24 pm
I like how he says "lost" world cup.

Though, I dont disagree with that sort of form.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Denbob99 on July 14, 2014, 11:27:55 am
Yeah, apparently he thought he'd clipped the first clip but the rope got caught in the gate, so he clipped the 2nd bolt and jumped off.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 17, 2014, 08:01:55 pm
Adam Ondra has onsighted Superplafond @ Volx, putting in the draws as he went. It's only 8c+ but...
Source (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41966)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 17, 2014, 08:31:28 pm
Adam Ondra has onsighted Superplafond @ Volx, putting in the draws as he went. It's only 8c+ but...
Source (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=4196 :popcorn:6)

Now that is pretty cool! Old school! Who goes to Volx these days?!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mark on July 17, 2014, 10:05:07 pm
Adam Ondra has onsighted Superplafond @ Volx, putting in the draws as he went. It's only 8c+ but...
Source (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=4196 :popcorn:6)

Now that is pretty cool! Old school! Who goes to Volx these days?!

And in July? Volx is one of the best crags in the world, that's undeniable, but it is prone to getting ever so slightly greasy, so it's a winter crag.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 17, 2014, 10:41:41 pm
And the crux is a slopey boulder problem right at the top!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on July 18, 2014, 12:15:32 am
Shit the bed. Would love to see a vid of that. Got a vid of Jibe doing back in the day (masters of stone 3?). Barring two daft mistakes in the comps his training with Paxi seems to be going well.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 18, 2014, 09:30:47 am
That's completely mental. The crux of Maginot Line is hard and the Terminator finish is "only" 8b but as doylo says it's basically a grim slopey boulder problem and as the rest of Terminator is easy you can imagine what it's like.

Quote
"no one has ever onsighted a route of this difficulty dates back to before 2000." When asked for further explanation, Ondra pointed out "Well, it's always seemed to me that all the routes I've done that date back to the 90's are really tough for the grade, that's why I really wasn't expecting to onsight it. "

 :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on July 18, 2014, 09:52:01 am
 :dance1:
Fantastic.
Superplafond on sight.
Hubble still no tick.
Take that Jibé!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JMB on July 22, 2014, 06:58:20 pm
Via ClimbingNarc on Facebook:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t1.0-9/10570486_790778327629758_6307192595514898823_n.jpg)

Quote
Somebody sent "Biographie" in Ceuse today!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 22, 2014, 07:21:53 pm
About fuckin time!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on August 03, 2014, 07:14:28 pm
For your viewing (dis)pleasure, the mistake which got him disqualified from the cham wc:

https://vimeo.com/102146282
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on August 03, 2014, 07:27:07 pm
 :slap: silly sausage
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on August 03, 2014, 08:43:34 pm
For your viewing (dis)pleasure, the mistake which got him disqualified from the cham wc:

https://vimeo.com/102146282

That's harsh.

If I was a betting man, and assuming anyone would have taken the bet, I would have bet a lot on Ondra dominating this year's climbing comp given his have-a-go effort at the end of last season, his very near miss in the bouldering round he entered and unmatched onsighting ability. He has, however, had a miserable season by anyones standards. I'd say he's feeling the pressure but it's not like he hasn't done comps before.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2014, 09:17:06 am
D'oh. Schoolboy error.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on August 05, 2014, 11:13:47 am
There's going to be a lot of climbers that can now say that they beat Ondra in competition.

 ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JackAus on September 03, 2014, 10:23:29 pm
Adam Ondra - Illusionost 9a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105151286)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on September 03, 2014, 10:33:49 pm
There's going to be a lot of climbers that can now say that they beat Ondra in competition.

Why do you think I have "flash La Marie Rose" on my to do list?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 03, 2014, 11:00:03 pm
He normally makes 9a look easier than that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: krymson on September 04, 2014, 01:38:35 am
Indeed! must not be his style.
Or  maybe it's old-school 9a
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on September 04, 2014, 11:18:15 am
Very nice film as usual.

The route did look a bit imbalanced, but still cool to see him climbing it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on September 04, 2014, 11:42:50 am
Adam Ondra - Illusionost 9a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105151286)

So many amazing moments in that clip, foremost being the look on his face when he's sat by the lake at 4.36. Is he thinking about banging one of those Scanda chicks?

Then straight into that amzing dismount at 4.50!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on September 04, 2014, 12:21:23 pm
Great video, I love how unphased he is about the deck-outs!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 04, 2014, 12:33:36 pm
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on September 04, 2014, 12:46:16 pm
i believe it's deliberate so that his swing isn't stopped by the rope
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 04, 2014, 12:47:30 pm
I believe it's shit belaying
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Three Nine on September 04, 2014, 12:49:05 pm
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.

That would be very ungentlemanly of you. She's hot, and Ondra's not a pussy like you.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Gus on September 04, 2014, 01:20:00 pm
Gotta agree with Stu, that belaying is beyond shambles!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on September 04, 2014, 01:23:45 pm
Interesting. The Ondranator is obviously okay with it even if you lot aren't - look how casually he touches down on the final fall of that section. I presume they've discussed the belaying and that's the way he prefers. Although a pad on that rock wouldn't go amiss!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 04, 2014, 03:07:25 pm
The amount of slack is clearly so that the rope cannot in any way help to stop the swing. Ondra comes across as a bit extrem on ethical issues from time to time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on September 04, 2014, 03:16:55 pm
Clearly it's just poorly bolted, which chump bolted it?  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 04, 2014, 03:20:18 pm
IIRC on La Rambla he skipped a clip that was above his head on the crux slab on top, because he thought that otherwise the weight of the rope would have pulled him up.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JohnM on September 04, 2014, 04:15:29 pm
Looks well nice that Flatanger.  The part of me that doesn't like following the crowd to the latest in vogue climbing area doesn't want to go there.  Every other part of me does!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 04, 2014, 06:55:48 pm
Yes he was keen to avoid rope killing the swing and yes he still didn't need that much slack. He seemed to be happy with the belay though. Probably didn't want to offend the young lady  :lets_do_it_wild:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on September 07, 2014, 03:26:58 am
I'd have kicked the shit out of my belayer. After maybe the third time he hits the deck off the crux, she's still stood there with loops of slack out and a gormless look on her face.

After 3 days of listening to him scream like a demented child I'd be trying to drop him onto a rock too! Somebody give the poor lass some ear muffs ffs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on September 15, 2014, 09:04:02 pm
World Championship Spoiler Alert.........

NSFW  :
Ondra, officially wad of wads. World bouldering and lead champion, climber of 9b+s and potty mouth.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 22, 2014, 06:10:54 pm
This interview is dynamite: http://eveningsends.com/climbing/adam-ondra-turns-pain-joy/ (http://eveningsends.com/climbing/adam-ondra-turns-pain-joy/)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 22, 2014, 06:45:40 pm
Quality. Funny to see Ondra saying he's too heavy, climbers are all the same really aren't they.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 22, 2014, 07:41:31 pm
Quote from: Ondrawad
not heavy for my height, of course; losing weight would not be wise in my case
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 22, 2014, 08:05:10 pm
Still saying he'd get spanked on a crimp ladder by the lightweights  :ras:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 22, 2014, 09:15:15 pm
That's physics innit, the scaling law
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on September 22, 2014, 09:34:27 pm
He's got guns these days, whats Paxti been doing to him
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cjsheps on September 22, 2014, 10:11:15 pm
It's interesting that he says he's naturally strong, and retains his strength well, when he claimed in Progression that he's "basically weak".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 22, 2014, 11:43:36 pm
It's not interesting, it's clearly bollocks.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on September 23, 2014, 07:00:19 am
The only thing I find remotely interesting about lead competitions is that it's still possible for people who are good at actual rock climbing to do well in them.  If/when that changes then what little residual interest I have in them will be gone.

Competition bouldering otoh I find pretty cool as a spectator sport in its own right.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 23, 2014, 09:09:34 am
 :offtopic:
He's got guns these days, whats Paxti been doing to him
I bet it's not Patxi, it's the  :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:
After the Lead World Champ victory he seemed to be quite chuffed with his girlfriend.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on September 23, 2014, 10:59:30 am
Nibile- do you know what training methods he uses for the :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:

My approach has always been along the short, maximal effort kind of method but my wife feels that i need to work on my ancap.

Thoughts?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on September 23, 2014, 12:19:34 pm
 ;D
He's both Bouldering and Lead world champion, so I guess he must be good at both.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Durbs on September 23, 2014, 01:08:31 pm
I wonder if he still goes in for such loud power screams during these sessions
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tommytwotone on September 24, 2014, 09:45:49 am
Nibile- do you know what training methods he uses for the :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild: :lets_do_it_wild:

My approach has always been along the short, maximal effort kind of method but my wife feels that i need to work on my ancap.

Thoughts?


Don't ask Nibs, he'll have you trying to do it while one-arming the 45s on the Beastmaker.



Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on September 24, 2014, 09:53:00 am
To be a true hero he needs to master the roll over and be disinterested move afterwards...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on September 24, 2014, 12:04:38 pm
I wonder if he still goes in for such loud power screams during these sessions

well, that's that image stuck in my head for the rest of the day. fuck.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2014, 12:06:57 pm
fuck.

That's about it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on September 24, 2014, 12:17:59 pm
Ondra doesn't fuck. Fools
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: masonwoods101 on September 24, 2014, 12:32:20 pm
He makes love?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yoof on October 02, 2014, 09:37:45 am
It's interesting that he says he's naturally strong, and retains his strength well, when he claimed in Progression that he's "basically weak".

Wasn't he 16 in Progression?. More age and puberty and shit -> muscle and power/strength
(one of my more eloquent sentences)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 18, 2014, 03:52:55 pm
New vid 'Change' released tomorrow (19th of Oct) apparently (http://www.change-movie.com/news (http://www.change-movie.com/news))  :dance1:


Adam Ondra: Rock and Plastic on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/108181653)

Ondra on Realisation, "I had to try quite hard".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on October 18, 2014, 04:48:08 pm
New vid 'Change' released tomorrow (19th of Oct) apparently

I'd better warn the neighbours.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 18, 2014, 10:16:47 pm
I better warn my pants!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 18, 2014, 11:13:55 pm
I better warn my pants!

That was very...
(http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V_npFEdZsE8/hqdefault.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 25, 2014, 10:34:09 am
Ondra film 'definitely' going to be released tomorrow. Similar delay to last time. I just hope it's not just comprised of all the short vids that were released over the last 24 months.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on October 25, 2014, 01:27:58 pm
On FB there's a video with Ondra onsighting two 8c+, one of which was 9a.
Clearly it wasn't newsworthy enough as to make it into the main movie...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on October 25, 2014, 01:54:21 pm
CHANGE - ADAM ONDRA - 2x 8c/+ ON-SIGHT on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/109956376)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on October 26, 2014, 08:39:55 pm
At long last......

http://www.change-movie.com/ (http://www.change-movie.com/)


Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on October 27, 2014, 11:10:11 am
Worth the money in my opinion. Watch with headphones or warn the neighbours.

Why buy?: 2 hours of Ondra in Norway.  :2thumbsup:
Why not to buy?: contains driving to the crag, 50% climbing, 50% Norway.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on October 27, 2014, 08:27:30 pm
Terrible terrible terrible film.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 28, 2014, 12:18:35 pm
Quite enjoyed it myself. Stands up pretty well as something you might watch with the family compared to the usual climbing flicks (where you have to spend at least 5 years sitting in grotty caves full of sheep shit before you can start to appreciate them.)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on October 28, 2014, 12:41:06 pm
Its one of the few films which really show redpoint frustration, which was brilliant. However, there was a surprising about of shit footage and bad editing given how long its been in production. I'm surprised he could find so much room for shots of their feet as they were dragging round a canoe, but couldn't fit in 10 more mins of the first ascents (actual or repeated for the camera) of Dharma and Art of Flight, and more than 30 seconds of onsight footage.

I was a bit disappointed if I'm honest.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on October 28, 2014, 01:51:34 pm
I found the full movie streamed online, for free. Just click play. Gets a bit boring at the 30min mark, but picks up again towards the end.

http://coub.com/view/3tija (http://coub.com/view/3tija)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on October 28, 2014, 02:25:29 pm
If it's anything like the stuff already online I wont be wasting my cash on it. To many shots of belayers and superficial context shots of the environment.

Clearly, the main reason any world class climbers travel to the arse end of Norway is to climb in a massive, world class granite cave, rather than to contemplate the landscape with all the false sincerity they can muster. A bit of context is welcome, but if it's half of a two hour film which is essentially about trying to climb the hardest route in the world, well that seems a bit silly to me.

Presumptuous, and probably a bit harsh, but there you go. The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years. Whenever climbing films try to get 'deeper' and present the activity as more than what it actually is, I cringe.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on October 28, 2014, 04:46:40 pm
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.

A to the men on that one. Brilliant and inspiring films.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: PipeSmoke on October 28, 2014, 08:05:18 pm
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.

Which films are these? Would love to give them a watch
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grigor on October 28, 2014, 08:37:25 pm
The home-made efforts of the Belgian big wallers are, by far, the most worthwhile climbing films I've seen in recent years.

Which films are these? Would love to give them a watch

There are a few around, with a mixed cast of heroes but usually involving Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and frequently Nicolas Favresse.

Greenland:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsVl_rzkcx0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsVl_rzkcx0)
Patagonia:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTfH40D-cfU&list=WL&index=61 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTfH40D-cfU&list=WL&index=61)
China:   http://www.xpedition.be/?p=579 (http://www.xpedition.be/?p=579)

No doubt there are more and others may post links (and better links). They're great videos without exception...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 28, 2014, 11:53:58 pm
This is the best climbing film I've ever watched in nearly 20 years - better even than The Real Thing! Perhaps I'm too sentimental but I loved how the film opens out to explore the vast land in which its set, as well as zooming in to micro-focus on roughly 25(?) failed attempts on a single move on the hardest route in the world. Ondra is so utterly single-minded! It's got everything, even trad gear-ripping deck-outs. Outstanding.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: haydn jones on October 29, 2014, 04:06:28 pm
I'm gonna just leave this video of Ondra doing interpretive dance of climbing here....

mejcup laws: No. 1 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/109436405)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on October 29, 2014, 06:07:26 pm
 :beer2:
 :popcorn:
That video is great

The change movie ... Really good shots of Norway, some good climbing shots.
BUT boy did it get on my nerves that trees, lakes and clouds got slow motion, and most of the climbing literally got fast forwarded
 :furious:

Peter the filmmaker does not love , dare I say it, he does not even like climbing, and it shows
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on October 30, 2014, 02:01:46 am
I wasn't impressed with it either. I like Ondra, places looked good, just didn't really hold any interest for me. Hard to believe it was 2 years in the making
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on December 01, 2014, 12:29:12 pm
I see that Ondra has outwadded all the other wads in the La Sportiva Legends comp.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69338 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69338)

It's getting a bit ridiculous how much better he is than everyone else.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 01, 2014, 01:44:56 pm
you could have put a spoiler-alert on that post (?), good thing i already watched it


all that endurance training paid off  :???:
, he seemed fresh as a daisy at the end of that  :clap2:

loved how the commentator kept saying that the moves and boulders were really hard, when someone made a boulder look easy.

to win with such a margin from this bunch of competitors..  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 04, 2014, 09:48:58 pm
100 9a or harder (http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=42340) for young master Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 04, 2014, 10:15:20 pm
Obscene stat.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on December 04, 2014, 10:24:45 pm
100 9a or harder (http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=42340) for young master Ondra.

Incredible achievement, would be interesting to know who is in second place for ticking grade 9's? Ramon has done 38 according to 8a
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 04, 2014, 10:28:26 pm
With sixty-eight 9a, twenty 9a+, nine 9b and three 9b+ already in the bag 9c cannot be too far off?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 05, 2014, 09:18:27 am
With sixty-eight 9a, twenty 9a+, nine 9b and three 9b+ already in the bag 9c cannot be too far off?

Finding a doable 9c must be pretty tricky!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on December 05, 2014, 09:26:57 am
He has at least one that he has done all the moves on in Flatanger.

After watching him win the comp last weekend, when he made the worlds strongest boulderers look pretty average, and now seen this stat he truly is so far ahead of everyone, Megos is pitched at being close but i think the gap is still pretty big.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 05, 2014, 09:35:01 am
Megos has got the potential but Ondras got quite a few years on him. Be interesting to see how Megos gets on if/when he starts trying 9bs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 05, 2014, 12:58:04 pm
100 9a or harder (http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=42340) for young master Ondra.

Incredible achievement, would be interesting to know who is in second place for ticking grade 9's? Ramon has done 38 according to 8a
Sharma must be close. The only other climber with a substantial number of 9bs
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on December 05, 2014, 01:38:14 pm
Quote from: 8a.nu
The runner up on this exclusive list are Ramonet and Dani Andrada with around 40 and Chris Sharma with some 35.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 05, 2014, 01:47:29 pm
100 9a's and harder! Ridiculous stat  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2014, 01:51:33 pm
9a, decades old trade routes, have been flashed, etc  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on December 05, 2014, 04:03:48 pm
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter)

Quote
Hubble ... Ben Moon was ahead of his time by a huge margin!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on December 05, 2014, 04:25:27 pm
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter)

Quote
Hubble ... Ben Moon was ahead of his time by a huge margin!

"So where are your weaknesses? And what do you do to improve them?
"This may sound stupid, but I am still weak. I can still improve my raw power. ""
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 05, 2014, 04:26:57 pm
Not quite as bad as Mcclure downplaying his finger strength.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 05, 2014, 05:52:02 pm
How many of us understand how much power he needs to climb 9c? Extrapolation gives me that he need insane endurance, or the ability to boulder around 9A
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on December 05, 2014, 06:19:40 pm
 
9b+     3       
 
9b        9       
 
9a+     20       
 
9a      68       
 
8c+   111       
 
8c      130

 :jaw:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 05, 2014, 08:10:50 pm
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter)
Once again I as impressed by his eloquence, positivity, and love for climbing, as all the big numbers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on December 05, 2014, 08:35:22 pm
Does anyone know how many 9th grade routes there are? Before today I would have guessed 100 or less. Is Ondra well on his way to ticking them all or am I just completely clueless or both?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 05, 2014, 09:17:13 pm
Clueless  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on December 05, 2014, 09:28:44 pm
I pasted this list into excel and it came up with about 185. This list probably isn't definitive but somewhere round 200 seems likely.

http://www.udini.com/climboid/hardestmoves (http://www.udini.com/climboid/hardestmoves)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iwasmexican on December 06, 2014, 12:54:09 am
Not quite as bad as Mcclure downplaying his finger strength.

so tell me he looks as strong as nalle watching these side by side:

Adam Ondra climbing Gioia 8C+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMNZGPnwve4#ws)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Fezk14WH3jI#t=152 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Fezk14WH3jI#t=152)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on December 06, 2014, 08:28:15 am
True Nalle looks more solid but I reckon he probs worked it for longer.. and that was a while ago, with Paxti's ubertraining workouts, I bet Ondra would path that now
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mini on December 06, 2014, 09:07:34 am
Watch Ondra on mute and you get a much different impression.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on December 06, 2014, 11:08:47 am
True Nalle looks more solid but I reckon he probs worked it for longer..

Why do you think that? A quick google search shows Ondra worked it for 11 days. Nalle was apparently close in the first week, then had to wait for rain before doing it the next week.

Ondra isn't the only beast training hard!

Ondra has made a point of repeating lots of older routes and Nalle seems to be doing the same on the boulders with Gioia, Bugeleisen, Emotional Landscapes etc.

Then there's Woods, with 19 8C's! Possibly even more impressive than Ondra's 100 - it's a huge quantity of ascents at pretty much the top grade in bouldering, whereas Ondra has only done 12 9b/+.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 06, 2014, 11:14:44 am
Ye but boulderings easier  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on December 06, 2014, 01:13:52 pm
True Nalle looks more solid but I reckon he probs worked it for longer..

Why do you think that? A quick google search shows Ondra worked it for 11 days. Nalle was apparently close in the first week, then had to wait for rain before doing it the next week.

Ondra isn't the only beast training hard!

Ondra has made a point of repeating lots of older routes and Nalle seems to be doing the same on the boulders with Gioia, Bugeleisen, Emotional Landscapes etc.

Then there's Woods, with 19 8C's! Possibly even more impressive than Ondra's 100 - it's a huge quantity of ascents at pretty much the top grade in bouldering, whereas Ondra has only done 12 9b/+.

Yes you may be right there, they probs worked the problem for similar times. I just have the feeling that Ondra may be on a slightly higher level now. I'm with Doylo on this, Wood's achievements are extremely impressive but not as impressive as 100 routes >9a!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 06, 2014, 03:47:27 pm
Plus there's quite a lot of 8Cs in the world, there's only 3 9b+s and still relatively few 9bs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on December 06, 2014, 05:03:00 pm
There's no real debate though here is there, Ondra has done all of the very hardest routes and all of the very hardest boulder problems.

Where there are 8c boulders he hasn't done it's because he hasn't tried them rather than failing on them. He has the hardest flash to date and has proven that he's no slouch on multi pitch routes etc.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on December 06, 2014, 05:34:18 pm
There's no real debate though here is there, Ondra has done all of the very hardest routes and all of the very hardest boulder problems.

Where there are 8c boulders he hasn't done it's because he hasn't tried them rather than failing on them. He has the hardest flash to date and has proven that he's no slouch on multi pitch routes etc.

Come on, let's not get silly. I'm not disagreeing Ondra is amazing, but he's not God. And he might be the best alround climber but it's not so clear cut on bouldering. For starters, of course he has failed on things. For instance, he never managed Livin Large (though it sounds like he got close) http://www.climbing.com/news/rocklands-wrap-up-by-adam-ondra/ (http://www.climbing.com/news/rocklands-wrap-up-by-adam-ondra/)

...Nobody is that far ahead of the pack these days to be able to do every boulder problem (It's incredible that he seems to be able to do pretty much every sport route though). He says so:

Quote from: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39015&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook
And of course I've failed on many more boulder problems, since in bouldering it's easier to come across certain one-movers that dk!on't suit my style, or perhaps the line doesn't inspire me enough to keep trying. But one day I might be back!

And according to his scorecard he doesn't have any 8B+ flashes, though of course he downgraded Gecko assis (as did Woods and Webb) and Confessions (as did Webb). Woods has flashed Entlinge, 8B+, which he downgraded from 8C. And Webb has 9 8B flashes, whilst Ondra has 7.

All I'm saying is that there are others operating at a similar level in bouldering, whereas in routes Ondra is clearly on his own. (Though it would be interesting to see Megos put more than a couple of days into a project). Of course, it's incredible that he can perform at that level in bouldering whilst also doing so much on routes and occasionally on plastic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 06, 2014, 06:08:38 pm
This is turning into the UKB version of Youtube comments on supercar videos  ::)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 06, 2014, 07:09:04 pm
out of interest. what's his "almost never fail to onsight and would be really surprised if I did fall off" grade?

routes, that is
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on December 07, 2014, 08:43:26 am
HVS
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 07, 2014, 10:44:57 am
out of interest. what's his "almost never fail to onsight and would be really surprised if I did fall off" grade?

routes, that is

In bouldering it's < Font 5+ (... from 2:28):


Video #1: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/35171521)



Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 07, 2014, 10:51:47 am
I must be the strongest boulderer out there then as I onsighted that side of L'angle Allain......  :tease:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 07, 2014, 10:59:02 am
You don't onsight anything in bouldering!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nik at work on December 07, 2014, 11:12:08 am
Well maybe you don't... ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 07, 2014, 12:41:53 pm
What is the correct terminology then for doing a boulder problem first attempt with no help, pointers or advice?  :off:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on December 07, 2014, 12:57:24 pm
out of interest. what's his "almost never fail to onsight and would be really surprised if I did fall off" grade?

He OS/flashed 46% of all his 8b+ according to dpmclimbing: http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-sends-his-100th-9a. (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-sends-his-100th-9a.)

Had a quick look at his 8a scorecard for this year and last year:
8a - flashed/os 90%
8a+ - 96%
8b - 55%
8b+ - 64%
8c - 67%
8c+ - 20%
9a - 13%

So, what tomtom said.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on December 07, 2014, 02:47:05 pm
You just flash it, you can see every move from the floor  :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 07, 2014, 02:58:58 pm
I must be the strongest boulderer out there then as I onsighted flashed that side of L'angle Allain......  :tease:

Better mate?  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on December 07, 2014, 05:24:44 pm
8c - 67%

Holy smokes batman! That's incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on December 16, 2014, 10:29:02 pm
 9a flash and 9a 1st ascent in a day today.
Hardy seems to raise an eyebrow now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 16, 2014, 10:53:39 pm
The 9a flash had a nice little 8B boulder at the start too!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 17, 2014, 08:45:01 pm
Glad to hear he hasn't forgotten how to climb on rock after all his plastic pulling. I know Ondra's on-sighted a couple of 9a now (2 or 3 depending on where you look) but how many has he, or anyone else for that matter, flashed? A quick look at 8a.nu says that he's previously flashed a 9a+. I'm guessing Megos has done one?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sasquatch on February 05, 2015, 05:32:13 pm
From: http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/interview-adam-ondra/ (http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/interview-adam-ondra/)
Adam Ondra-
Quote
I consider myself being a little bastard in a certain way, because I just climb and get paid for it but I don’t give anything to society, I don’t produce anything or offer a service.
  :lol:

On why he went back to school:
Quote
in my opinion, it is impossible to train more than 4 hours a day, because your skin doesn’t allow you to do more.... thinking 24/7 about climbing is harmful and doesn’t make you climb harder


Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 12, 2015, 08:08:37 am
Boom. Gypsy Blood, 8c+ in Santa Linya. On sight, of course

(http://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10460780_528710127268510_39924149757754083_n.jpg?oh=22dd7e473ddb6701d92dbc726730e78c&oe=5590A447&__gda__=1435886339_2b6c146a56ab82be125a9fb531036670)

(Photo: Manabu Yoneyama)

Also, Sachi Amma did Catxasa (9a+) in 4 attempts

Source (http://www.facebook.com/manabu.yoneyama.3/posts/528710353935154?pnref=story)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 12, 2015, 11:42:56 am
Boom. Gypsy Blood, 8c+ in Santa Linya. On sight, of course

According to Sachi Amma's facebook it was a flash. Sorry, nothing to write home about... :yawn: (Would of course be   :strongbench: if it was someone else...)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 16, 2015, 06:48:09 pm
http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/local-news-adam-ondra-flashes-method-v12/ (http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/local-news-adam-ondra-flashes-method-v12/)

Seems like his form is slipping. Only 8c+ second try and techy 8A+ flash to report.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on February 16, 2015, 11:27:33 pm
When did dreamcatcher get upgraded?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 17, 2015, 05:35:16 am
Any interest in the singularity?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: AndyR on February 17, 2015, 07:05:19 am
Son #2 and I arrived in time to witness his second try. Embarrassingly my son muttered "I don't think he can climb it" quite audibly as Adam got into the initial slab crux ... at which point he slipped off.
Was JuniorHabrich firing foam darts at Ondra by any chance?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on February 17, 2015, 07:42:22 am
Embarrassingly my son muttered "I don't think he can climb it" quite audibly as Adam got into the initial slab crux ... at which point he slipped off.

So your son is a prophet, a powerful jinx-casting shaman, or an astute analytical observer of sporting activities. I don't see how any of these is embarrassing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 17, 2015, 03:52:57 pm
Dreamcatcher starts from the "room" between boulders where the Singularity is located, so Ondra must at least have looked at it.
Yeah thats why I asked.
Ondra is probably saving it for the flash after dream catcher  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on February 17, 2015, 09:46:32 pm
(https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11107_852601991448810_5983445834103050958_n.jpg?oh=7d06114b94f8cae0def2774dddef7761&oe=55888A23)

From Sonnie Trotter on FB, not a bad flash effort!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on February 18, 2015, 02:19:11 am
Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on February 18, 2015, 10:57:22 am
I wonder why he keeps using Speedsters.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 18, 2015, 11:27:41 am
Update: apparently he did try it.
:o
First repeat?
 :weakbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on February 18, 2015, 03:24:30 pm
no I just read it wrong.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stubbs on February 18, 2015, 04:18:04 pm
I wonder why he keeps using Speedsters.

They seem to work for him!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on February 18, 2015, 07:42:57 pm
 :spam:
Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)

Quite possibly the most anticlimactic video ever.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: willackers on February 18, 2015, 09:30:13 pm
:spam:
Adam Ondra attempting Dreamcatcher on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/119887141)

Quite possibly the most anticlimactic video ever.

 :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gcarmichael on February 18, 2015, 10:05:31 pm
Great interview with Ondra just posted today:

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838 (https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on February 19, 2015, 12:33:34 am
Royal visit or not - that music was awful. One does not approve.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on February 19, 2015, 08:26:45 am
Great interview with Ondra just posted today:

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838 (https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?portfolioID=3838)

Agreed (despite some of the questions from the interviewer). He's certainly an impressive all round dude.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on February 19, 2015, 04:13:12 pm
And that's exactly why he keeps saying that he's weak. Because he knows it.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 20, 2015, 12:49:51 pm
Excellent. This and the interview with the Anderson brothers are probably the two best podcasts about training for climbing that I've listened to.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on February 20, 2015, 03:15:49 pm
Agreed, was a great interview. There are a lot of examples in sport where you have the naturally talented and the training masochists. Combining the best in both fields is, I would imagine, rare and it will be fascinating to see what Ondra does with the combination over the next couple of years
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on February 21, 2015, 10:48:36 pm
Excellent, lots of good stuff, thanks for the link
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on June 03, 2015, 10:26:19 am
Is 8c, 8b flash and 8b+ first ascent IN A DAY still newsworthy for bouldering?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: fatneck on June 03, 2015, 10:30:47 am
I'd say hell yeah! Links? Story?

Edit  (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69764)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave k on June 03, 2015, 10:48:19 am
I'd say hell yeah! Links? Story?

Edit  (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69764)

A few details on 8a.nu
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 03, 2015, 10:53:00 am
A few details on 8a.nu

How helpful of you to link to them.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 03, 2015, 11:43:10 am
No links to 8a please, it only improves the idiot's google score.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 03, 2015, 12:10:15 pm
 :oops: :sorry:

A copy and paste would be useful then as saying some information is on a given website but not including it will in many cases have the same result as including a link, i.e. an extra visit to the site when someone goes to read it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave k on June 03, 2015, 02:33:29 pm
A few details on 8a.nu

How helpful of you to link to them.  ;)

Did try to copy and paste previously, but was a bit rushed for time and failed. Here you go.

Adam Ondra has together with many of the Boulder World Cup guys spent a day in RMNP where he needed just some few attempts to do White noise 8C, flashed Bear toss 8B and made a 8B+ FA. © Chad Greedy (Instagram) (copied from 8a.nu)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2015, 02:35:40 pm
Shaka ding
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 03, 2015, 03:25:34 pm
It's funny because even without the 'copied from 8a.nu' I could tell it was from that site...

Ondra has together with many of the..
..just some few attempts
..and made a 8B+ FA


I like it, and think we should many of us post in that style.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 03, 2015, 03:26:00 pm
Ondra has together with many of the Boulder World Cup guys spent a day in RMNP where he needed just some few attempts to do White noise 8C, flashed Bear toss 8B and made a 8B+ FA. © Chad Greedy (Instagram) (copied from 8a.nu)

Thats exactly whats in the UKC write-up fatneck had already linked to.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 03, 2015, 08:24:45 pm
I love hearing about/watching anything Ondra does, such a monster! Hope he does well in the bouldering World Cup season.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on June 04, 2015, 09:51:21 am
8B, 8B+ and 8C all in the same day is flippin' ridiculous. One could be extremely proud of this as a lifetime's achievement at the almost cutting edge. That guy is another level of beast. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on June 04, 2015, 09:53:22 am
8B, 8B+ and 8C all in the same day is flippin' ridiculous. One could be extremely proud of this as a lifetime's achievement at the almost cutting edge. That guy is another level of beast.
One could be proud of each one of those feats as a single lifetime achievement...
8b flash: lifetime achievement
8b+ first ascent: lifetime achievement
8c: idem.
Now put them all together.
Now do them in a day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 04, 2015, 10:33:56 am
Bloody ell.

Clearly the limiting factor, in terms of bouldering difficulty, is the rock not the man.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: psab on June 05, 2015, 02:40:04 pm
(http://farm1.staticflickr.com/310/18301822268_a0f7fff5fd_b.jpg)

Meanwhile at Hypnotized Minds, Dave Graham shows his approval for Ondras rendition of "One of us on the holds/Oh Johnny G"......
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2015, 02:46:06 pm
dab
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on June 05, 2015, 04:50:56 pm
Looks like someone dragged that photo right out of the 90's
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on June 05, 2015, 05:04:38 pm
"One of us on the holds/Oh Johnny G"......

'One armers on the holds', no? Or as I missing a joke?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on June 08, 2015, 05:51:37 am
He's flashed Jade.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2015, 06:39:44 am
He's flashed Jade.

Quote from: andrew bisharat
Congrats to Adam Ondra on flashing Jade (V14) today ... the world cup stuff is kinda cool, but this is what makes Adam a legend (https://twitter.com/EveningSends/status/607757361999015936)

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pako on June 08, 2015, 07:09:53 am
And he flashed a v13 right after... Bloody insane. This is his third v14 flash including Gecko Assis and Confessions.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on June 08, 2015, 07:29:48 am
 
He's flashed Jade.
:jaw: Class of his own on rock.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 36chambers on June 08, 2015, 07:36:24 am
video on the island website (apologises for lack of embedding)

https://www.island.io/island/adam-ondra-flashes-in-rmnp
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on June 08, 2015, 07:36:47 am
FFS, what a beast. Especially as he's not looked on top form in the comps. That vid with Dave Graham's reaction is awesome!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on June 08, 2015, 07:42:23 am

He's flashed Jade.

O

M

G
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2015, 07:48:17 am
video on the island website (apologises for lack of embedding)

https://www.island.io/island/adam-ondra-flashes-in-rmnp

Great vid - the chat at the end 'dude did that even feel hard?' :D
Though watch out for the full bore Ondra power scream about 4 min in.. (it scared the cat..)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2015, 07:49:18 am
+1
Great video, and great live commenting from the older wizard
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on June 08, 2015, 07:51:29 am
 :o :jaw:

Ondra power scream  (it scared the cat..)
;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on June 08, 2015, 08:23:00 am
[emoji144]
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: iain on June 08, 2015, 08:29:51 am
Just amazing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: benno on June 08, 2015, 08:54:08 am
That's INCREDIBLE!  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2015, 09:03:49 am
Just ridiculous. Obscene, not so long ago that was the hardest problem in America. After seeing him flailing on those stupid comp problems this puts it in perspective. THAT'S what's it's all about!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2015, 09:12:38 am
After seeing him flailing on those stupid comp problems this puts it in perspective. THAT'S what's it's all about!!

Comps are just a means for him to get around the world and climb in different places.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on June 08, 2015, 09:22:03 am
Amazing. Its great to see someone as good as Graham feeling the same as us normal folks do when someone better than you pisses up your test piece.

And the poor kid in the red tee shirt just looks ready to give up after Ondra walks up the 8B hes probably been trying for years.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pako on June 08, 2015, 09:28:44 am
Makes you wonder, are there any simple strength moves that can't be flashed?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2015, 09:29:40 am
It makes it much better with Graham being there. There's footage of him trying it in 2001.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2015, 09:32:38 am
Amazing. Its great to see someone as good as Graham feeling the same as us normal folks do when someone better than you pisses up your test piece.

Flowchart:

Code: [Select]
              Is someone going to
              flash your proj?
                    |
                    |
                    |
              are you Alex Megos?——-yes--->Nobody is not going to flash your proj
                    |                                        (but stop Adam from trying)
                    |
                    |
                   no
                    |
                    |                   
                   \/
              are you Adam Ondra?——-yes--->Nobody is not going to flash your proj
                    |
                    |
                   no
                    |
                    |                   
                   \/
             Somebody will flash
             your proj.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: fatneck on June 08, 2015, 09:36:53 am
Just WOW!! Amazing...  :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on June 08, 2015, 09:37:58 am
Best clip ever. Perfect combo of action and reaction  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on June 08, 2015, 09:40:47 am
He's definitely the new Gaskins  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on June 08, 2015, 10:04:32 am
Good lord!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on June 08, 2015, 10:10:20 am
Fantastic.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Moo on June 08, 2015, 10:12:46 am
That was both not surprising and totally inspiring  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on June 08, 2015, 10:21:22 am
He really is something special - nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on June 08, 2015, 11:03:31 am
Holy shit  :jaw:

Best bouldering vid ever
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2015, 11:05:06 am
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.

When is he ever not psyched?

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kelvin on June 08, 2015, 11:08:27 am
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.

When is he ever not psyched?

I admit to having a film of him being interviewed on a trailer step and playing it when I need a bit of a psyche boost  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Pako on June 08, 2015, 11:10:54 am
nice to see Dave Graham genuinely psyched too.

When is he ever not psyched?

The guy is always a joy to watch, probably one of the most genuine seeming top climbers out there
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Falling Down on June 08, 2015, 11:28:11 am
Wow.  So impressive.  Dave Graham looks completely gobsmacked.  Amazing stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on June 08, 2015, 11:42:35 am
That's ridiculous.
Truly amazing guy. As happy as a man can be, infectious psyche!
Great.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: r-man on June 08, 2015, 12:31:20 pm
Amazing.

Hopefully this will silence all those people who have been insisting for some time that individual moves can't get much harder, and the future of hard bouldering is just link ups.

8B move flashed. Static. Bouldering still has a long way to go.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on June 08, 2015, 01:20:59 pm
Incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on June 08, 2015, 01:27:17 pm
Does anybody know if Martin is OK?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: turnipturned on June 08, 2015, 01:38:53 pm
Mad!

Does anybody know if Martin is OK?

Looks like he did "Don't Get too Greedy". Not  :shit: but when climbing with Ondra we are all punters.

Crazy DG hasn't done Jade

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on June 08, 2015, 02:15:12 pm
The context provided by Dave Graham makes that one of the best vids ever.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Grubes on June 08, 2015, 02:37:21 pm
Crazy DG hasn't done Jade
I thought dave finally did it last year or year before?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: sidewinder on June 08, 2015, 04:33:14 pm
Fairly impressed they walked up!  I tried to walk up to Chaos Canyon for a look last week and gave up as repeatedly sinking past my knees in snow was no fun, plus several people had mentioned everything was snowed in (though obviously not the jade block) I wonder what they warmed up on?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2015, 05:05:03 pm
Don't get too greedy should be OK for warmup, well within the flash grade and all...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: sherlock on June 09, 2015, 11:45:52 am
Inspiring.Great vid :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on June 09, 2015, 01:02:02 pm
Amazing, great video. Love Dave's reaction!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on June 09, 2015, 05:26:31 pm
+1,  :agree: , "Like", etc etc  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Whyatt on June 09, 2015, 06:30:47 pm
Chad lol power to burn man...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Whyatt on June 09, 2015, 06:33:45 pm
It makes it much better with Graham being there. There's footage of him trying it in 2001.

I have seen this footage its good was on YouTube but haven't been able to track it down in years got him doing some other amazing boulders too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: fatneck on June 10, 2015, 10:27:59 am
Love DG trying to hide a spliff after the ascent :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on June 10, 2015, 10:37:32 am
Love DG trying to hide a spliff after the ascent :)

Where can I get this smelly-vision? :clown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on July 27, 2015, 06:12:08 pm
Just another day at the office. 2 x 8c onsights, repeat of Three Degrees of Separation. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69866
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 27, 2015, 06:23:41 pm
Since that's just a rewrite of Kairn's report, I'll link (http://www.kairn.com/fr/escalade/95340/adam-ondra-de-passage-en-france.html) to that as well

In short: Three degrees of separation, ~9a, Céüse, first repeat

Face Bouc, 8c on Face Bouc in Ailefroide, onsight. In bad conditions (I was in Briançon that day)

(http://www.etienne-seppecher.com/new/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/sans-titre-65.jpg)
Photo: http://www.etienne-seppecher.com/

Spanish caravane, 8c in the Ramirole sector on the left side of Verdon, onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on July 27, 2015, 07:06:22 pm
Nice pic, the rest goes without saying  :weakbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 28, 2015, 08:02:17 pm
Nice writeup on  planetmountain  (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42938)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on July 28, 2015, 08:45:53 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3_YVu5B44&feature=youtu.be

terrible, incomplete vid...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on July 28, 2015, 09:40:50 pm
Surprised he's wearing Solutions.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: TheTwig on July 29, 2015, 03:32:26 am
People were saying 3 degrees of seperation was impossible to repeat. Ondra is such a beast, I would say this kind of climb is his anti-style (if he could have one). I really hope there was someone filming with an actual camera though. That twat with the phone.............. :chair: :ras: :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on July 29, 2015, 07:44:00 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3_YVu5B44&feature=youtu.be

terrible, incomplete vid...

"One Degree of Separation"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Baldy on July 29, 2015, 06:56:05 pm
It's not working... Stupid question perhaps, but did anyone download it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on July 31, 2015, 11:03:45 am
In the absence of any 3degs footage here's a video of Ondra climbing to 80s pr0n music, made even better by the commentator at 3:08:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNwzTa-YFPQ
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 31, 2015, 11:16:07 pm
In the absence of any 3degs footage here's a video of Ondra climbing shaking out a lot to 80s pr0n music, made even better by the commentator at 3:08:
Always nice to watch him, on almost anything.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: haydn jones on September 09, 2015, 12:26:44 pm
Flashed chromosome y 9a last month. Hillarious  how 9a flash doesn't make news anymore.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on September 09, 2015, 12:31:17 pm
Thought that was last year? http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69381
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on September 09, 2015, 12:38:29 pm
13th Dec 2014 on his scorecard
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: haydn jones on September 09, 2015, 01:51:06 pm
Huh. His score card was messed up when i looked at it a minute ago. Nvm
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on November 04, 2015, 09:59:05 am
New 9b in the south of France (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-sends-new-515b-france). "C.R.S." (a lovely bunch (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compagnies_R%C3%A9publicaines_de_S%C3%A9curit%C3%A9))
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on November 04, 2015, 11:21:22 am
Nice. I think it's the same crag as this 9a which look awesome: https://vimeo.com/121973444
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: a dense loner on November 04, 2015, 09:03:40 pm
Good cheesy vid! Rock looks incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 05, 2015, 08:59:21 pm
3 days, 9 attempts. So not very hard then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on November 10, 2015, 10:04:06 pm
Barely noteworthy I know but he also repeated Megos's 9a+ Modified in the Frankenjura:

 https://vimeo.com/144674687
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 11, 2015, 12:30:06 pm
For a moment there i didn't think we were even going to get a power scream.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on November 11, 2015, 01:01:47 pm
For a moment there i didn't think we were even going to get a power scream.
Yeh, it was all a bit casual for the first 2/3rds.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 15, 2015, 07:57:43 pm
Won the total world cup in lead and combined today. Not bad.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 28, 2015, 09:55:11 am
Vid of Ondra climbing Predator 9a+ on 19th Nov 2015

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxB-n-frg0A

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 28, 2015, 04:34:05 pm
Bouldery looking fucker that  :strongbench:

Rock looks almost as dung as Peaks Limestone   :sick:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 20, 2016, 02:19:54 pm
First repeat of Stoking the Fire, 9b, in the dirty link-up hole.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-claims-2nd-ascent-sharmas-stoking-fire-515b
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 20, 2016, 07:41:25 pm
Good report there!

I thought Santa Linya was rather spectacular indeed. It's hardly The Tor or Parisellas  :unsure:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on February 21, 2016, 01:06:27 am
Great photo on the ukc piece
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70276
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigd942 on February 21, 2016, 09:08:47 am
Could only think of Kurt Albert when I saw the UKC pic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mini on February 21, 2016, 09:17:08 am
Why do I find it hard to get my head around the fact he's only 23!! He seems  to have been around for decades...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 36chambers on February 21, 2016, 10:59:43 am
Why do I find it hard to get my head around the fact he's only 23!! He seems  to have been around for decades...

I was just thinking the same thing.

"This was Adam's 14th route of 9b or harder", I've never really considered just how many hard sport routes he's done, this is very impressive.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on March 26, 2016, 10:59:46 am
 Ondra attempting some on-sights last summer in Ramirole cave, Verdon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sw0EpPe7IjY#t=434
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on March 30, 2016, 05:15:57 pm
UKC shows that Ondra is still tediously amazing, dispatching a lifetime goal's worth of waddish routes in a weekend - two 9th grade FAs, and two 8c onsights.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70361 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70361)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on March 30, 2016, 05:53:44 pm
Wow - the scrawny jangle of sinew and bone has turned into muscley beast!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on March 30, 2016, 10:39:15 pm
That article made my day when I read it yesterday. It's good to have details.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: slackline on April 27, 2016, 07:18:49 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uo64D1-Vumw
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on April 27, 2016, 12:37:50 pm
Nice to see he still has to try hard every now and then.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2016, 01:50:27 pm
Might be good enough for a proper shot at Hubble now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on April 27, 2016, 02:11:06 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 27, 2016, 03:21:10 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.

Yes, frightening  :o

As for turning into a "muscley beast", his voice seems to have dropped an octave. He'll be shaving next. Then it won't be long until his first arthroscopy to fix his knees.

Super inspiring video though, and good to hear him breathing like an express train.

Other shockers - the number of 9b routes in Catalonia. And the run-outs. At what point does the belayer have to decide "Sorry Adam, you're coming off" just to stop him hitting the deck?

Thanks for posting that one up Slackers  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on April 27, 2016, 03:25:13 pm
Having to tey hard on 9b's ins something that I could cope with.
Those dropknees though... Terrifying.

Yes, frightening  :o

As for turning into a "muscley beast", his voice seems to have dropped an octave. He'll be shaving next. Then it won't be long until his first arthroscopy to fix his knees.

Super inspiring video though, and good to hear him breathing like an express train.

Other shockers - the number of 9b routes in Catalonia. And the run-outs. At what point does the belayer have to decide "Sorry Adam, you're coming off" just to stop him hitting the deck?

Thanks for posting that one up Slackers  ;D

Santa Linya is very well bolted. Adam is just choosing not to clip (or can't).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 27, 2016, 03:42:35 pm

Santa Linya is very well bolted. Adam is just choosing not to clip (or can't).

Yes, exactly, hence the question.

Adam's choice to run it out, vs the belayer's discretion. Difficult one to call maybe, though I'm sure the falls would look safer if the camera panned out a bit.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on April 27, 2016, 03:46:10 pm
He'll be a long way up DT - Santa Linya is massive and mega steep so he'll just fall into space! Plus would imagine the bolts are relatively close together and mainly just dogging bolts?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on April 27, 2016, 09:34:19 pm
Adam Ondra cuts it quite fine sometimes with skipping clips, but he seems to be totally unconcerned. The future of alpine sportclimbing looks bright/terrifying
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on April 28, 2016, 06:42:05 am
I chatted to a friend in Spain when I was out in January who has a lot of experience belaying wads on 9as at places like Santa Linya. I got the impression it's not quite as simple as there being lots of space to fall into and that people were taking risks skipping clips and falling pretty close to the ground at times. She suggested that belaying at this level was quite a skill.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on April 28, 2016, 07:31:07 am
Wow. Fair enough - it always looked to me like once you got high up in that cave you could skip loads of clips pretty happily. Do they get E grades?  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 28, 2016, 08:49:13 am
I'd be intrigued to know the mindset; do they decide which ones to clip and which to skip in advance, or do they just skip them depending how they feel.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on April 28, 2016, 09:15:13 am
I'd be intrigued to know the mindset; do they decide which ones to clip and which to skip in advance, or do they just skip them depending how they feel.

As long as you're comfortable running it out above bolts, then I think the mindset is often 'if you're not gonna hit the ground, why would you waste energy clipping?'. Most seem to plan which ones to clip/skip in advance.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on April 28, 2016, 09:20:09 am
Reminds me of a period I spent regularly belaying Jacob Cook and Malham and Kilnsey. 

When he got tired, he would not do what most people do - clutch the nearest draw, squeal "take in!", and hope it went better next time.  Instead, he'd skip clips and keep on trucking in the hope that he'd reach a decent hold where he could gather himself (and finally clip). He would get quite horrendously run-out - made for a worrying belay experience.  Mind you, it generally worked - and I suspect that's the commitment you need if you are to really test your limits. 

It came as no surprise when he started ticking hard E-grades and doing well in Yosemite - he probably made climbing the stairs into a "chop-route". 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on May 26, 2016, 07:47:34 pm
According to 8a.nu he has just done Megos' Geocache, 9a+ in the jura. In a day. From his comment it sounds like it was in a few tries:

Quote
- Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on May 26, 2016, 08:15:09 pm
Showing Megos he's still top dog  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 08, 2016, 11:29:32 am
Have we had this yet?
http://www.climbing.com/people/adam-ondra-the-future-of-climbing/

Excellent interview
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: submaximal gains on June 08, 2016, 12:31:33 pm
That's a great interview :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: TheTwig on June 11, 2016, 01:57:58 am
The article says that La Dura Dura is the worlds first 9b+, I thought Ondra did Change first, then La Dura Dura (followed by Sharma) ?

 8)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on June 11, 2016, 05:39:41 am
La Dura Dura is the only one that's been climbed by an American, duh.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: joeb on June 23, 2016, 09:10:49 am
Agreed corporate guff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on June 23, 2016, 09:24:06 am
Anyone know what crag that is?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stabbsy on June 23, 2016, 09:38:45 am
Anyone know what crag that is?
I think it's just down the valley from St Leger - called Mollans maybe?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on June 23, 2016, 12:20:14 pm
Another 9a+ FA to add to the list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70536
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Coops_13 on June 23, 2016, 01:22:28 pm
Talk of 9c projects, incredible!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 23, 2016, 04:03:53 pm
Another 9a+ FA to add to the list: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70536

Maybe stick in the original source as well: https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1618882228422300 (https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1618882228422300)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 15, 2016, 07:17:11 pm
Heelhooking on your forearm, mono fingerlocks etc
http://youtu.be/7Xmx2gYwsYo


Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2016, 09:01:08 am
where is this forearm heelhook? at 32 sec? Looks like he briefly puts his foot on his arm while repositioning?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on September 16, 2016, 12:47:13 pm
Looks like Tommy and Pete should get on that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on September 21, 2016, 02:01:21 pm
I watched him trying this in the summer.  The hardest thing about it seemed to be the posing for photographs with hundreds of schoolchildren after each burn on it.  Looks outrageous though.  What the video doesn't show is the roughly 30 metres of 50 degree climbing to get there
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on September 25, 2016, 02:03:23 pm
About comp. climbing & some Yosemite pre-spray:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzz7_jUdta0
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on October 05, 2016, 10:23:10 pm
Ondra did the FA of a new 9b in Alternativna stena, in Slovakia today. Named it "Robin Ud".

Then onsighted an 8c+ in the same day...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLMaVL3h_wO/?taken-by=adam.ondra

Vid of him trying some moves:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLKFn66As_W/?taken-by=adam.ondra
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: James Malloch on October 06, 2016, 10:56:36 am
Ondra did the FA of a new 9b in Alternativna stena, in Slovakia today. Named it "Robin Ud".

Then onsighted an 8c+ in the same day...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLMaVL3h_wO/?taken-by=adam.ondra

Vid of him trying some moves:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BLKFn66As_W/?taken-by=adam.ondra

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70721/robin_ud_9b_first_ascent_by_adam_ondra

And arriving in Yosemite next Thursday. Some impressive ascents could start coming though!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on November 29, 2016, 10:30:14 am
Is he still going to onsight Salathe then?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on November 29, 2016, 11:17:41 am
From Pavel Blažek on instagram (https://www.instagram.com/p/BNYQwXWhh7G/?taken-by=pavelblazek&hl=en) today: "Unfortunatelly there is no more time"

They had a couple of days rest then went back on the Dawn Wall for photos and retrieving the fixed ropes and portaledges.

I imagine he'll be back.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 08, 2017, 09:31:42 pm
Ondra has made the first ascent of Mamichula, hard 9b, which is a link up of Papichulo, 9a+, and Pachamama, hard 9a+.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70938/adam_ondra_climbs_mamichulo_9b

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 08, 2017, 10:36:36 pm
I like the whipper snappers who are more impressed by his english...  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on February 10, 2017, 08:52:54 am
Freaking massive runout aswell! So good to watch climbing  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on February 10, 2017, 08:56:51 am
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: J.Kydd on February 10, 2017, 09:12:28 am
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..

Yeah, his 'Le Blond' project. Featured in this slightly weird video with his new bestie Jason Momoa

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on February 10, 2017, 09:29:37 am
slightly weird video

Agreed, highly cringeworthy.  :sick:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 10, 2017, 07:20:27 pm
Watched Ondra make the FA of the extension to Happy Hour at oliana today. Down as a 9a+? in the guide. There was some train noises and shouting so I assume it wasnt a total path.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: nash1 on February 11, 2017, 03:43:09 pm
3 days on and he does 9b FA, 9a/+ FA, 8c FA, onsights two 8c's and an 8b+.

Nothing out of the ordinary really for Ondra, but it just never ends! Unbelievable!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Steve R on February 11, 2017, 07:03:20 pm
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..
Doubt it.  Sharma's project innit. And he sounds heavily invested so unlikely to be giving it away. If the narrative from the dura dura movies is to be believed (no reason not to), sharma had pretty much abandoned the route and then only got inspired to get back on it after (presumably) 'letting' ondra give it a spin.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 11, 2017, 07:35:04 pm
3 days on and he does 9b FA, 9a/+ FA, 8c FA, onsights two 8c's and an 8b+.

Nothing out of the ordinary really for Ondra, but it just never ends! Unbelievable!

Ye but what's he ever done at Pot Hole Quarry.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Lurker on February 11, 2017, 09:17:34 pm
I wonder how long he is in Oliana for? Do I remember Sharma mentioning in one of the Dura Dura videos that there is a harder project right next to it? Wonder if he will try that..
Doubt it.  Sharma's project innit. And he sounds heavily invested so unlikely to be giving it away. If the narrative from the dura dura movies is to be believed (no reason not to), sharma had pretty much abandoned the route and then only got inspired to get back on it after (presumably) 'letting' ondra give it a spin.

http://enormocast.com/episode-31-hayden-kennedy-andrew-bisharat-pbr-frothy-climbing-spray/  About 14mins in they talk about that, sounds like Sharma was pretty cool with it all so he might be fine with Ondra getting stuff done ahead of him.  Depends if he's a little more keen on getting the FA (if he thinks he can/doesn't get burned out) for that though I guess.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 11, 2017, 10:17:50 pm
3 days on and he does 9b FA, 9a/+ FA, 8c FA, onsights two 8c's and an 8b+.

Nothing out of the ordinary really for Ondra, but it just never ends! Unbelievable!

Ye but what's he ever done at Pot Hole Quarry.

Not even Ondra could handle the polish on "The Dog".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 12, 2017, 06:15:03 pm
Hello? Police? I'd like to report that the ondrawad was robbed today. Watched him make the hard bit of neanderthal at santa linya look like a 9b path, only for a foothold to snap on the no hands rest above.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: standard on February 12, 2017, 06:19:08 pm
Stalker
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 12, 2017, 06:21:44 pm
guilty
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on February 15, 2017, 07:03:01 pm
Quote from: Luke Owens link=topic=14977.msg544897#msg544897
Not even Ondra could handle the Polish on "The Dog".
[/quote

the Czech Republic is just next door, so he should be OK.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on April 18, 2017, 10:19:14 pm
"Queen Line" 9b FA in Arco https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1775164192794102, and a vid here https://www.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/posts/1775164192794102
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on April 19, 2017, 01:07:06 pm
And finished the day off by repeating a 9a+ apparently.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on April 21, 2017, 07:42:17 am
And a repeat of Lapsus, 9b. Then a 9a second go.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTHvpfglEY4/

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on April 21, 2017, 11:24:19 am
Got to be on for some sort of 'Best week ever' kinda thing?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2017, 02:15:36 pm
Is anyone keeping track of his totals still?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on April 21, 2017, 02:47:09 pm
It would be interesting to know how many 9bs there are and how many of them he has done..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on April 21, 2017, 02:59:12 pm
Looks like there are 21 9bs (http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php) and Ondra has 14 listed on 8a.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on April 21, 2017, 03:05:54 pm
Lazy sod.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2017, 03:31:31 pm
only 66.66 % done. Finger out.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JonB on April 21, 2017, 03:34:59 pm
It would be interesting to know how many 9bs there are and how many of them he has done..

Bjorn Pohl reckoned Ondra had done 17 9b or harder after he did that FA the other day, so 18 after Lapsus. That also means he's done 45 routes 9a+ or harder... Has anyone else even done half that?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JonB on April 21, 2017, 03:39:45 pm
He does need to get his arse in gear and do Jumbo Love though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2017, 04:12:50 pm
It would be interesting to know how many 9bs there are and how many of them he has done..

Bjorn Pohl reckoned Ondra had done 17 9b or harder after he did that FA the other day, so 18 after Lapsus. That also means he's done 45 routes 9a+ or harder... Has anyone else even done half that?

I don't think everyone else together have done that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on April 22, 2017, 07:06:01 am
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTLJFSilau6/
9a+ and 9a yesterday.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on April 22, 2017, 09:26:37 am
So is that 2x9b, 2x9a+ and 2x9a in the last week?!? I would imagine most pro climbers would be happy with as a full career achievement.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 22, 2017, 09:38:25 am
https://youtu.be/gH7v70Ql9cw (https://youtu.be/gH7v70Ql9cw)
Liam L bouldering in Sweden.
Ondra prepping for the BlackDiamond Project at same wall.
This is apparently the worlds hardest indoor route.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10155074258216605&substory_index=0&id=153989481604 (https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10155074258216605&substory_index=0&id=153989481604)
Live stream on Sunday on Black Diamond Facebook page.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on April 22, 2017, 11:46:53 am
WTF? Where's Ondra? I can watch people climbing seven-zeez in the gym seven days a week.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 22, 2017, 01:21:11 pm
 :coffee:
WTF? Where's Ondra? I can watch people climbing seven-zeez in the gym seven days a week.

At the end of the clip Liam plugs the Ondra on the black diamond project gig tomorrow.
Maybe bit hasty inserting the clip, sorry.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 23, 2017, 04:23:31 pm
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI)
Will Adam be able to do it?
Will find out in a bit.
Breaking in some new boots back at the ranch, his solutions look incredibly tight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 23, 2017, 05:21:21 pm
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12z4_RW8UjI)
Will Adam be able to do it?
Will find out in a bit.
Breaking in some new boots back at the ranch, his solutions look incredibly tight.
It's on now
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rX8dagva4Ig (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rX8dagva4Ig)
There is a break for 30mins should be back on around 6.
Ondra hit high point towards end of big roof on his first go.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on April 23, 2017, 06:21:21 pm
The second half just finished - link doesn't want to work.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jytIw6jJ9-A (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jytIw6jJ9-A)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on April 27, 2017, 09:27:11 am
Interview excluding climbing:

http://emontana.cz/adam-ondra-interview/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on June 29, 2017, 09:19:04 pm
Short clip about the Ondra climbing philosophy
https://vimeo.com/223604625 (https://vimeo.com/223604625)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jfdm on August 29, 2017, 08:34:58 pm
Ondra's flash/redpoint attempts now draw big crowds!
Footage a bit ropey.
He's a beast 17 minutes clinging to rock that steep is superhuman.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R9T2OzJgHzk
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on August 29, 2017, 09:13:11 pm
Flippin heck. How does he deal with that shit.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: user deactivated on August 30, 2017, 06:50:32 am
Was that a Billboard at the foot of the crag?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on August 30, 2017, 08:46:39 am
Guessing it's some sort of organised event........
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 09, 2017, 10:49:07 am
Looks like he's still got an eye for some lowball limestone hate crimping.

Drift, 8C, FA

https://vimeo.com/237305965
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on October 09, 2017, 11:12:36 am
Some of his Czech crags really make Blackwelldale look good.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 16, 2017, 09:36:30 am
More butt scraping limestone goodness, this time at a weighty 8C/+.

https://vimeo.com/238180464
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dave on October 16, 2017, 09:55:49 am
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on October 16, 2017, 10:07:09 am
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

I'm glad the best climber in the world is a proper climber
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on October 16, 2017, 10:26:58 am
I like his attitude: "Let's wear a kneepad, just in case."
Then: "Fuck the kneebars let's just fucking obliterate this shit."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on October 16, 2017, 10:35:14 am
This is what I want to see, this is proper climbing. Ropey phone footage of people crushing their hardest stuff at their local crags. Dropoff at an apparently arbitrary hold. None of this eyepopping Rocklands shit, drones, sliders, timelapse, people only climbing hard when they've travelled half way round the world to find a problem that suits them. This is proper climbing, proper footage. Ondra is a fucking animal.

This. More inspirational than Reel Rock.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on October 16, 2017, 10:48:59 am
Eliminate arse drags at unaesthetic glued crags are the best.

Regards, Teaboy who also couldn't afford a trip to Rocklands this year!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 16, 2017, 11:38:44 am
Long live chossy lime.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 01, 2018, 11:48:18 am
Ondra has repeated Meiose, the link-up between Chromosome X and Y in Charmey. Ondra needed three tries (he flashed Chromosme Y three years ago) and says that 9a+ is closer to reality than the previously proposed 9b.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BepiiOxlmfe/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mde on February 01, 2018, 01:41:43 pm
Apparently Ondra found a kneebar just before the second hard boulder problem. Bertle had stated that the second hard boulder had to be climbed without any rest or shakeout, hence I assume he did it without the kneebar. Certainly, the easiest beta (and hence the kneebar) counts, but it may explain (at least part of) the difference in grade perception.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on February 02, 2018, 11:15:45 am
If you watch his video, Bertle uses the knee and shakes on it, but isn't chill like Ondra. Bertle isn't using a pad, which is a bit dumb, and may explain why he can't go no-hands, or Ondra may just be better at knees...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 03, 2018, 10:35:47 am
Deep thought of the day: Ondra is likely better at everything climbing-related, including knee-bars.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on February 03, 2018, 03:03:46 pm
He put in a lot of specific kneebar training for the upside down on in Silence, so anything more vertical probably feels like a cake walk! Think it was similar in the vid of him trying Steve Mac’s hard route.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on February 10, 2018, 09:15:52 am
Pirmin says Ondra is so good at kneebars that he needs his own grading scale: http://lizardclimbing.com/?p=3487
Pirmin uses the kneebar at ~6:40 here: https://vimeo.com/174366123
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on February 10, 2018, 09:27:37 am
Wow that's a whole lot of bullshit to try and hold on to the grade of the climb!

Looks like Pirmin should have opted from some rubber, rather than a polkadot patch on his trousers!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Footwork on February 10, 2018, 10:12:11 am
Pirmin says Ondra is so good at kneebars that he needs his own grading scale: http://lizardclimbing.com/?p=3487

 :lol: :lol: :lol: he sounds like a complete knob. I want Megos to come over and give it 9a now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on February 10, 2018, 10:15:16 am
but pirmin does use a real kneepad. the actual send footage from 4:30.
he really rubs me the wrong way.
fills me with joy to see his 4 year project downgraded.
and for someone who pretends climbing is this spiritual thing, for him to argue that there is an exact amount of tries Ondra should spend on an 9a+ is laughable.
as is the reasoning that it is a 9b because most climbers are 170 cm?? so he graded it for 170 cm and not for himself and ondra who are 184 and 185?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on February 10, 2018, 11:09:10 am
Is Pirman as tall as Ondra? Fuck me. So, according to his argument, it might not be 9b for him either? If he was better at kneebars.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on February 10, 2018, 12:03:36 pm
that's how i read his non native english blog
" . I am measuring 184cm and have proportionally long legs as well, but I can only clip and chalk there. I can hardly take the left hand off the wall. And I worked a lot on my knee pad engineering in there. A lot. And as the average high end climber should be about 10cm shorter, Adam’s downgrading argument seems highly personal. (Applying only for about 3% of potential aspirants.)"

ondra is 185, according to his wikipedia page  :read:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on February 10, 2018, 08:36:21 pm
9a+ flash...?

Adam Ondra toujours historique avec le premier 9a+ flash
http://www.grimper.com/news-adam-ondra-toujours-historique-premier-9a-flash

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 10, 2018, 08:51:15 pm
Fucking wow.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: submaximal gains on February 10, 2018, 09:04:56 pm
That article says that the only previous ascent was by Megos in 2016, who graded it 9a+, but Ondra hasn't offered any opinion on the grade.

Fanatic climbing's report on the first ascent is:

"Project freed. After his quick ascent of "L'enfumette" in St-Léger du Ventoux, Alexander Megos has tried and finally done the first ascent of an old project of Quentin Chastagnier, "Supercrackinette" in Praniania, the direct start of "Crackinette" who becomes the hardest route freed in the whole crag !
"It took me 3 days and I think it's 9a+. About the sends in the East face, I did l'Enfumette but I think it's 8c+ (originally graded 9a by the man who did the first ascent Kevin Aglaé). Took me 4 tries.
I did as well too "Concept Extension", 8c+." Nice job for a lightning trip !"

From: https://m.facebook.com/fanatic.climbing/photos/pb.1525466421097215.-2207520000.1478993612./1674391672871355
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 10, 2018, 09:10:58 pm
Unless Megos missed a trick or two (always a possibility) I can't see it being a gift at the grade.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 10, 2018, 09:15:02 pm
He’ll say it’s 9a now Ondras flashed it . #beef
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 10, 2018, 09:25:23 pm
Just need to get the Permanent Beetle in there on the siege to give it 9b, and then take the middle value.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 10, 2018, 09:50:19 pm
Informally confirmed as 9a+ on the other channel.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on February 10, 2018, 09:52:42 pm
He seems to be taking the grade.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BfB9t9VltpV/?taken-by=adam.ondra
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 11, 2018, 08:48:43 am
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2888v0z.jpg)

Looks a bit thin
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 11, 2018, 09:05:12 am
Great but unsurprising. 9b+ rp = 9a+ flash. :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on February 11, 2018, 10:10:54 am
Great but unsurprising. 9b+ rp = 9a+ flash. :whistle:
what a slacker, if that's the science he should be flashing 9b by now
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 11, 2018, 01:34:15 pm
A few words from the man himself

Quote

I’ve been thinking about trying to flash a 9a+ for quite a long time but the problem is to find the perfect route because there are not so many 9a+ routes in the world. And at the same time there are not so many 9a+ routes that I had not tried before and that are good routes to flash - meaning that are not super complicated and super tricky.

I saw this route two years ago and it seemed like a perfect candidate to me so I had it in my mind and waited for the right moment. This year we went for a long trip to St. Leger here in France and I thought this was the time.

Nevertheless, I had a lot of doubts whether I should or shouldn’t go for it. I wasn’t very confident because I thought that the route is so resistant, and I did so much climbing without any rest, and I was wondering if I was really fit enough to do it. And there were moments during this trip when I was sure that I would not try it because I felt like it would be a waste. Because, you know, - on a flash you have only one go. Once you try it, it’s not possible to try the same route again as it would always be a second go.

In the end, I decided to call Bernardo, he came here to film, so at that point I could not really back away from it. I just had to give it a try. I took two rest days which definitely helped. As I was warming up, I started to feel more confident that it could actually work out.

Then I started climbing according to the perfect beta of Quentin Chastagnier who gave me all the beta. He bolted the route so it was very very important. The first half of the route, I was just flying up the route. It was like I was feeling cosmically strong and that boosted my confidence a lot. Only towards the second half of the route were there a couple of moments where I felt like I was losing my confidence a bit because there were two pockets where my fingers were just too fat to dig deeper but I still somehow made it and then I had just enough energy to do the last hard move on the very top.

Getting to the anchor was really emotional and I see this 9a+ definitely as one of the best accomplishments that I have ever done. This was really hard especially mentally due to the reasons I explained before - there are very few routes that are good candidates to be flashed and you always have only one go.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 11, 2018, 01:51:25 pm
Look forward to that footage.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on February 11, 2018, 02:03:42 pm
 :bow: :bow: :bow: :strongbench: :strongbench: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on February 11, 2018, 03:46:10 pm
"cosmically strong"  :great:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 12, 2018, 09:59:54 am
He's a bit good isn't he. Great stuff. Funny that what he says about the one chance applies to normal onsighting at whatever level, in my experience.

On the thankfully increasingly distant subject of P.Beetle, it seems what happened that one of PB's routes got confirmed as roughly in the grade ballpark he had given it, with a small downgrade partly due to kneebar reasons, from the world's best sport climber who had trained kneebars specifically for the world's hardest sport route. Seems like it should be fairly uncontroversial, both for the Beetle and any 'joyful' spectators...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on February 13, 2018, 08:01:49 am
Good interview on planetmountain (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-interview-after-worlds-first-9a-plus-flash-at-st-leger-in-france.html). €0.01 for Megos' thoughts.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on February 13, 2018, 08:11:18 am
just to go back to "meiose" for a second:
ondra put down as a "soft" 9a+ on his scorecard, commenting:
"One day ascent, third go. Nice short power endurance on tiny holds. Low end 9a+ with kneepad."

also another interview about 9a+ flash on ukc
am i allowed to type those letters?
it seems people always write "the other channel" or something. as if it a thing that can't be named.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/02/adam_ondra_about_his_flash_of_supercrackinette_9a+-71480
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 13, 2018, 09:42:28 am
Seb Bouin and Cédric Lachat have both tried Supercrackinette and they think it is 9a+. Alex Megos said 9a+. I would be well surprised if it turned out to be easier.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sarnian on February 13, 2018, 11:21:15 am
Good interview on planetmountain (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-interview-after-worlds-first-9a-plus-flash-at-st-leger-in-france.html). €0.01 for Megos' thoughts.

"With his flash ascent Ondra has now raised the bar by half a grade"

I don't know why this bugs me so much but it does. If you convert it into the UIAA or Australian system it's a whole grade. I've not heard the Americans saying they've gone up by a quarter of a grade, or do they?  :worms:

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on February 13, 2018, 07:45:47 pm
9b FA at St Leger - https://www.instagram.com/p/BfJYOhDlKIl/?taken-by=adam.ondra
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andymarshll on February 14, 2018, 11:18:04 am
Surely really a sixth of a grade, a, a+ etc just being subdivisions of the whole number...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 14, 2018, 11:31:20 am
half a letter grade and half a letter grade makes a letter grade, there are three letter grades in a number grade.

What an increadible machine Ondra is. FA of the only two French 9bs (in the same valley as well).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wil on February 14, 2018, 03:01:52 pm
One day we'll go decimal.

How does Ondra sustain this output? Just incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on February 14, 2018, 06:15:24 pm
How does Ondra sustain this output? Just incredible.

Good question. His mental strength and focus is what sets him apart. As a six year old he decided to become the best and he has done so in a mind-boggling way. No downs all these years, only upps. He’s smart, has studied, speaks 6 languages. Did all the significant routes, repeated almost everything hard. Also won everyting, then went on to put up all the hard stuff; boulder, sport and multi-pitch. 20 years of nonstop stoke and focus. And no injuries.

There’s got to be an identical twin, or a bunch of clones.  :-\

Might be interesting to have his brain checked like they did with Alex Honnold. And his tendons/shoulders. Mutant.  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on February 14, 2018, 06:47:03 pm
As a six year old he decided to become the best and he has done so in a mind-boggling way.

I've never felt more ashamed to not be a spaceman.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on February 14, 2018, 10:33:28 pm
He's so consistently good that I think I have what I'll call Ondrawad Fatigue Syndrome. I mean flashing 9a+ is really, really mind boggling. But because it's Ondra I don't think the significance quite sinks in. For me anyway. 9b FA a few days later? Meh.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: user deactivated on February 15, 2018, 07:23:38 am
Haha, yes it's like hearing god's just performed a miracle, if you believe in god that is.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on February 15, 2018, 08:35:30 am
As a six year old he decided to become the best and he has done so in a mind-boggling way.

I've never felt more ashamed to not be a spaceman.

You may not (yet) be an astronaut but your films are pretty darned good!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on February 16, 2018, 04:55:30 pm
Here's the 9b FA. The hard bit looks pretty short.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTjZ2JHJDJo
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on February 20, 2018, 11:40:24 am
Not a bad day to finish off a trip.

Back home from France, the last day in St Leger was just pure fun.

- Panique au poulailler 8a onsight
- Ousama 8b+ failed onsight in the last meter
- La Hyene 8b+ onsight
- Les Abdominables 8b 2nd go (slipped from wet pocket on my onsight try)
- Les Intermutans du Spectacle 8b+ onsight
- Chipolatas et Jacuzzi 8b+ onsight
- Diagonal du Duboc 8b/b+ 1st go (shares the finish with previous one, so no onsight)
- Foetus trou du cus 8b/b+ onsight
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: galpinos on February 20, 2018, 12:19:18 pm
Not a bad day to finish off a trip.

Back home from France, the last day in St Leger was just pure fun.

- Panique au poulailler 8a onsight
- Ousama 8b+ failed onsight in the last meter
- La Hyene 8b+ onsight
- Les Abdominables 8b 2nd go (slipped from wet pocket on my onsight try)
- Les Intermutans du Spectacle 8b+ onsight
- Chipolatas et Jacuzzi 8b+ onsight
- Diagonal du Duboc 8b/b+ 1st go (shares the finish with previous one, so no onsight)
- Foetus trou du cus 8b/b+ onsight

I thought I was looking at Power Club for a minute and was thinking, "Wow, gme is going well at the mo....."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 20, 2018, 12:34:43 pm
Mileage day on 8bs and 8b+s.  :thumbsup:
I used to do that on 7a/+s .  :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on February 20, 2018, 01:11:38 pm
Chipolatas et Jacuzzi is an awesome route name.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 20, 2018, 01:44:28 pm
Good to know he can still fall off things.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on February 20, 2018, 07:57:36 pm
That is just mindblowing.  Basically five 8b+ onsight in a day, plus a couple of second goes.  What??!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 21, 2018, 07:14:19 pm
TBH, I would expect someone who have done a handful of 8b+ and a bunch of 8bs to be able to onsight six routes in the 7b-7b+ bracket when they have a good day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on February 22, 2018, 11:06:09 am
i Agree but using the same process shows how far ahead Ondra is. 9B no big deal and solid at 9B+. A step above the following pack including Megos.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 22, 2018, 11:59:17 am
I'd pay good money to watch a Moonboard death match between Ondra and Megos.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 22, 2018, 09:16:48 pm
I'd pay good money to watch a Moonboard death match between Ondra and Megos.

Megos would probably win that one.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Simon W on February 23, 2018, 07:50:39 pm
Premiere of Silence on live stream in ten

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaNXOgbXV1I
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 23, 2018, 09:06:51 pm
that was nice!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on February 24, 2018, 03:05:46 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on February 24, 2018, 03:52:03 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.

Judging by the amount of analysis of the climbing and preparation suggested in the film I simply can't believe that they didn't consider and try out methods involving more traditional crack climbing methods. Finding weird beta is probably one of his biggest strengths.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 24, 2018, 04:55:02 pm
Adam Ondra is a very good crack climber. Obviously.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 24, 2018, 06:37:45 pm
https://youtu.be/ZRTNHDd0gL8

The film on it's own if you don't fancy the full live stream.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: monkoffunk on February 24, 2018, 09:48:21 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.

I'm sure I recall an interview with him when he said there was beta to do the crux without inverting which he had done but thought was harder.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on February 24, 2018, 09:50:16 pm
I think it would have been a more satisfying watch to show the whole route.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ghisino on February 24, 2018, 11:03:55 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.

if you imply that he may have chosen another beta had he been "a crack specialist" i find the idea silly... he surely invested some time "studying" cracks for this crux, and has all qualities to be a very fast learner...

that said, beta variations, even radically different ones, would not surprise me much.
Jamming techniques=morpho
Ultrasteep=funkybetaland
ondra's knee flexibility=beyond ordinary...



Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sasquatch on February 24, 2018, 11:59:21 pm
It would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that crux section. He doesn't really use any/many jams, but they do look available.

Apparently climbing 8b+ cracks like those on the dawn wall aren't specialist enough... ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on February 25, 2018, 08:35:06 am
My post was supposed to be taken completely literally. I think it would be interesting to see a crack specialists approach to that section. Maybe with more crack specific techniques it would be easier, harder, or not possible at all, no idea, but I do think it would be interesting to watch. What I was not saying is that it's probably 6a if you jam it and Ondra is a punter.
Ondra is obviously the greatest climber the world has ever seen, in fact he's so good I struggle to envision anybody ever being better (although I'm sure they will). As good as he is I also struggle to believe that there is nobody in the world better than him specializing in less popular or esoteric forms of climbing, like hard cracks, slabs and dynos.
As pointed out Ondras obviously a very good crack climber, as evidenced by his ascents in the valley. Although I'm not sure climbing cracks a full number grade below your limit makes you a specialist (regardless of the difficulty). I'm sure we've all seen people climb cracks that are significantly below their physical limit, with less than perfect technique (of course people with no technique also fail on cracks many number grades beneath their limit). I do however think that climbers who spend much of their time on cracks, and climb very close to their physical limit are more specialized, and likely have better crack technique than Ondra.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on February 25, 2018, 09:34:03 am
I enjoyed the film and -unusually for this genre - wished it had been a bit longer. I was surprised when what I thought was another try turned out to be the successful ascent. Enjoyed the portrail of the process, though the replica looked easier than the real thing. The final shot revealing the route only climbed a portion of the cave was a fitting end: this is only the beginning.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on February 25, 2018, 09:41:47 am
Loved the film. The cave really is a special place for lots of reasons other than the obvious amount of hard climbing. The pan away shot at the end really shows the scale of it.

Re the crack climbing specialist point. I find it amazing that people think this. He spent 4 years on this, specific training, numerous trips and even a speciaist physio to work on aspects of climbing that are pretty unique. Do you not think that if it was possible to jam it at an easier grade he would have just spent a load of time learning how to.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on February 25, 2018, 09:54:21 am
Re the crack climbing specialist point. I find it amazing that people think this. He spent 4 years on this, specific training, numerous trips and even a speciaist physio to work on aspects of climbing that are pretty unique. Do you not think that if it was possible to jam it at an easier grade he would have just spent a load of time learning how to.

So I take it you didn't read my post at all
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on February 25, 2018, 10:11:56 am
I wasn’t replying to your comment, which I had read, I was responding to a number of comments on here and also that I have heard elsewhere. If you could jam this route he would have done so.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: user deactivated on February 25, 2018, 10:37:40 am
The physio section was great, where he's lying on his back and the guy is running through the moves. Can't believe the stress he placed on his knee without injury.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on February 25, 2018, 12:33:04 pm
I can't be the only one who felt, on seeing the end of the route being a heel-hook shake out and then one hard move to an arbitrary clip on a vertical bit of the cave, that it was a bit of an anti-climax to the world's hardest route.

That should be read for what it is - my honest feeling on watching. Not any sort of armchair criticism. Ondra's one of the few heroes in climbing.

Of course climbing anything's arbitrary. Most tor routes finish at some arbitrary point one-third up the cliff. And this film perfectly highlights that arbitrary nature of climbing. Just that some routes do have great and obviously natural finishes but this climb, from what's shown in the film and from never having set foot in the cave, doesn't seem to.

Enjoyed the film though, really showpieces Flatanger and Ondra's just a razor sharp legend  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: monkoffunk on February 25, 2018, 01:40:21 pm
I can't be the only one who felt, on seeing the end of the route being a heel-hook shake out and then one hard move to an arbitrary clip on a vertical bit of the cave, that it was a bit of an anti-climax to the world's hardest route.

I got that sense slightly, but yes sport climbing can be pretty arbitrary. I do remember thinking the opposite with Jumbo Love, was cool that that topped out.

But also plenty of groundbreaking ascents have been extensions of previously established climbs, so who know what might happen in the future? I suppose it depends on what the climbing is actually like above. The cave is so massive, might be strange if it turns into a massive multiple route if the rest of it is no where near as hard. Who knows!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 25, 2018, 03:14:32 pm
Yes, Silence is right up there with the likes of "Arnold's Armblaster"  ;D

I was wondering how long the route is. The features on the next section of rock look as though they'd offer opportunity for some easier climbing thereafter.

Interesting other comments from Ferret and Petejh, which I think are completely relevant.

I do however acknowledge that "Thou shalt not criticise Ondra"!

No, that's ridiculous. GME, given your own comments about the psychology and mentality of climbers in the UK, I'm a bit surprised about your own input there.

The number grade of the cracks climbed don't infer good crack technique, which is Ferret's point. I CAN believe Ondra has crap crack technique compared to some, but being able to climb 8C etc after a long 8b intro, probably allows for a huge margin of error on an 8b+ crack.

Why put the man on a massive pedestal, and yourself on a lower? I can't imagine Jerry thinking like that. Massive source of inspiration yes  :2thumbsup: and a great film, both insightful and humourous - puntering off the replica was quality  :P

A great resource of positivity.

There's a huge roof on the Scottish island of Foula which really ought to see some class action soon..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on February 25, 2018, 03:54:30 pm
I wasn’t replying to your comment, which I had read, I was responding to a number of comments on here and also that I have heard elsewhere. If you could jam this route he would have done so.

Apologies in that case.

I wonder the section leading into and establishing the footlock is nails and if you get this section perfect maybe the difference between a jam and a sloper for the following moves isn't much of a big deal to ondra
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on February 25, 2018, 05:18:50 pm
I have no idea what you are on about Dave.

I am suggesting that if it was easier to climb the crack by jamming I would have thought that Ondra would have spent time learning how to rather than doing it a harder way. He spent 4 years trying it so pretty sure he would have looked at that option.
And I am not saying that there are not better crack climbers out there than him, but I do believe he would be become the best if he put his mind to it. Has Tom Randall not proved that it’s possible to train for them.
Nor have I put him on any kind of pedestal other than the one he has claimed for himself.

I really don’t know where your comment came from.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 26, 2018, 02:24:20 pm
Yes, I've probably taken some of your remarks out of context. I'll admit it was a bit of a reaction - to the general sense that this is the "Church of Ondra"  ;)

I think there's plenty of validity in what people are saying, when they pick up on a sense of some weakness in technique for AO on the crux of the route. However, it's nothing close to being a pure crack climb, and so going off to train for cracks - a la Randle - seems much less relevant here. That doesn't mean there isn't some weakness in technique for Ondra that could otherwise be bloody useful, which is what I think people are saying.
Seems relevant to me.

Re your own comments, I don't think they really fit the context of the route; there's not enough crack to make going off to train in that way beneficial. Again though, someone who is a bit of a wizard at cracks may find something really useful there.

Ondra though, doesn't appear to consider himself a wizard, which is something else that people find likeable, and his immense enthusiasm.

My takeaways from Ondra's videos, is the balance and criticism of his own relative weaknesses/strengths.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 26, 2018, 04:49:58 pm
Having watched that video, I am renewing my membership in the Church Of Ondra (not that I really intended to let it lapse either). Great stuff. His professional support network is impressive too, the guy is not fucking around there either. And as GME said, the amount of rock above Silence Pitch 1 is shocking :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on February 26, 2018, 05:16:52 pm
Having watched that video, I am renewing my membership in the Church Of Ondra (not that I really intended to let it lapse either). Great stuff. His professional support network is impressive too, the guy is not fucking around there either. And as GME said, the amount of rock above Silence Pitch 1 is shocking :)

I only watched the bit with the actual send footage. My wife saw it over my shoulder and her reaction was "Why's he finished there? He's got miles to go".

I can only agree. He could do at least another two pitches. Preferably ending in some sort of choss "exit chimneys".

Back around.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Luke Owens on February 26, 2018, 11:21:58 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfoDd4WllzB/?taken-by=adam.ondra

8c+, 9a FA and 9a+ FA in two days...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on February 27, 2018, 10:19:19 am
Genuine LOL at "exit chimneys" :D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on February 27, 2018, 11:28:00 am
So many amazing things about that film, not least the size of the cave.

Like Duncan I was surprised when I realised I was watching the succesful attempt. I'd say that's a very good thing though- most of these project films batter you over the head with footage of the protagonist failing on each hard bit to the point where you can see "the send" coming a mile off. Made sense to get the celebration out of the way at the beginning too. We always know that they did the route before we start watching these films so the tension can be a bit false.

I realised I'm utterly naive to how tough these 9th grade routes are when I saw Ondra's preparation and support team for this. I still pictured him making soup in his camper van under the crag with his folks. Can't wait to see someone being rolled around on a Thermarest under Ben's Roof by their coach.  :lol:

If Ondra's up for repeating it then hauling up a rack of hexes on cord for an E2 4c top-out pitch then I'm available for the sequel.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 27, 2018, 02:07:03 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gOJAbRwaUE
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wil on February 27, 2018, 06:06:11 pm
Like Duncan I was surprised when I realised I was watching the successful attempt. I'd say that's a very good thing though...

Same here. It's good to not tick the expectation box sometimes and I thought it was really well put together.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on March 06, 2018, 03:55:36 pm
I can't be the only one who felt, on seeing the end of the route being a heel-hook shake out and then one hard move to an arbitrary clip on a vertical bit of the cave, that it was a bit of an anti-climax to the world's hardest route.

That should be read for what it is - my honest feeling on watching. Not any sort of armchair criticism. Ondra's one of the few heroes in climbing.

I think I agree with all of this. It would be kind of cool if the world's hardest route was some fantastic king line. It might actually be cooler that it's some minging non-line to a completely arbitrary finish.

And yes, Ondra is a hero.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on March 06, 2018, 04:33:31 pm
It might not be another Biographie but ‘minging non line’ is a bit harsh.  :P
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SamT on March 06, 2018, 04:37:06 pm
It might actually be cooler that it's some minging non-line to a completely arbitrary finish.


Err - like hubble then.

[duckandcover]
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on March 06, 2018, 05:11:35 pm
All of the routes in the cave just stop in the middle of nowhere due to there length. This thing is already 50m long which surely is long enough for a single pitch. If you want to extend it do it as another pitch which would be at least another 80m.

Also the flat bit of rock it finishes at is the caves version of a ledge.

Shame all of steve mcs routes all have stupid finishes on a flat bit of rock. Someone should tell him to go and finish them off. Biography has also just been used for reference yet this doesn't top out either just stops at a random big flat bit.

I thought the whole film was superb. The only thing i was disappointed in was not seeing it from the start.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on March 06, 2018, 05:51:01 pm
All of the routes in the cave just stop in the middle of nowhere due to there length. This thing is already 50m long which surely is long enough for a single pitch. If you want to extend it do it as another pitch which would be at least another 80m.

Also the flat bit of rock it finishes at is the caves version of a ledge.

Shame all of steve mcs routes all have stupid finishes on a flat bit of rock. Someone should tell him to go and finish them off. Biography has also just been used for reference yet this doesn't top out either just stops at a random big flat bit.

I thought the whole film was superb. The only thing i was disappointed in was not seeing it from the start.

I was referring to the line of Biographie not where it finishes. But 99 % of routes aren’t going to come close to that line.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on March 07, 2018, 08:42:10 am
Yes its a hard line to beat. A perfect blue streak up the best looking wall of the most perfect limestone in the world. I cant see anything ever improving on it. The routes in the flatanger cave are not obvious until you see people on them but unlike most limestone they do follow features and make logical sense. Other than the fact biography follows a beautiful blue water streak its not a line at all.

Its the not topping out comments i dont get, thought i had strayed onto UKC.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on March 07, 2018, 09:26:49 am
I always thought that Black Bean and No Future were better lines than biography, since they go the whole way up the middle of that wall, but I suspect I may be in the minority on that front.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 07, 2018, 11:03:14 am
Black Bean is definitely a better line than Biographie.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on March 07, 2018, 11:32:58 am
Its the not topping out comments i dont get, thought i had strayed onto UKC.

It's a bit of tongue in cheek I think, gme.
That said, it looks like he gets to a massive jug, shakes out for ages, does a hard move, and clips the chains. It does seem contrived, from my armchair, to add that extra hard move - but obviously I know absolutely nothing about it. As far as I'm concerned it's not an arête, ergo it's contrived and might as well be an eliminate  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2018, 11:34:39 am
I'm going to speculate from my distant armchair that the position where he clips the chains is a more natural finishing position in reality than the position where he shakes out in the middle of a roof.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 07, 2018, 12:03:55 pm
Think the angles of that cave are all over the shop and make discerning how steep it is at various points really hard; almost a kind of optical illusion. Presume that vert bit is logical as a finish point but that last hard move does seem odd. Imagine dropping it there....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on March 07, 2018, 08:58:57 pm
Isn't it safe to assume that Ondra would have put a reasonable amount of thought into where the line finishes, has a much more intimate knowledge of the cave, and is therefore right?!

Also think it's fairly safe to assume that seeing as he specifically trained knee bars for the route, and took a physio to the cave with him, that he would have developed hand jamming skills further if he thought it would have made the sequence easier.  Baffles me that people are looking at a video of the undisputed best climber in the world (and I mean best, not strongest), on the hardest route in the world, and basically saying "he'd find that way easier if he could jam"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on March 08, 2018, 12:37:53 am
Ged, bit of a straw man there.  :-\

By your reckoning, his coach must be a far better climber than Ondra - giving the world's best climber advice on how to improve his movement.

There's nothing at all strange about being able to deconstruct someone else's technique and find areas for improvement.

Your reference to "best climber" is such a general claim - which I'm not trying to dispute - but there will be those climbers, better than Ondra at certain things.

There's the sense that there are other strengths that may add a little something. I get that feeling too.

Re the cave/end of the pitch, yes, pitches through large roofs do often finish at awkward spots.

Dave.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on March 08, 2018, 07:21:11 am
Your reference to "best climber" is such a general claim - which I'm not trying to dispute - but there will be those climbers, better than Ondra at certain things.

Well, he’s done most of the hardest sport climbs in the world, boulderered to one grade below the current max grade (at which there is only one problem currently, would love it if he did burden of dreams this year) and has done the hardest trad route in the world from a starting point as a big wall novice.

I guess his alpine and high altitude record need some work!

Which climbers, and what things are they better at than Ondra? My list so far includes:
-Nalle: seiging a boulder problem over several years.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on March 08, 2018, 07:59:17 am
Dave

I dont believe that he got the physio in to improve his movement on the route at all. He got the physio in to help him improve the ability of his body to be able to carry out the movements he needed it to do as efficiently as possible.

Very much i need my leg to do this not how do i do this move.

As for teeshub comment i couldn't agree more he is the all round package when it comes to rock climbing. If he chose to take up crack climbing i am pretty sure he would eat up the hardest the world has at the minute and add a grade or two very quickly. Ditto UK trad, imagine what he could do in a week in Pembroke.

In 30+ years of climbing i have not seen anyone so dominant, not even close. Its a very exciting time for the sport.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on March 08, 2018, 08:01:22 am
GME, while I agree with most of what you said...I'm pretty sure I read somewhere (or was it not a short part in the video) where the physio actually did offer movement advice?

Small point....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 08, 2018, 10:31:02 am
Baffles me that people are looking at a video of the undisputed best climber in the world (and I mean best, not strongest), on the hardest route in the world, and basically saying "he'd find that way easier if he could jam"

That would be interesting if people were actually saying that, instead of specifically clarifying that that was NOT what they were saying  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on March 08, 2018, 11:51:26 am
GME, while I agree with most of what you said...I'm pretty sure I read somewhere (or was it not a short part in the video) where the physio actually did offer movement advice?

Small point....

It would be very interesting if this was the case. Would it not be more like the physio watching him climb then helping achieve these movements or advising him how to do the better. I cant imagine a non climber would be able to tell him stuff like move your foot there or drop your knee further.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on March 08, 2018, 11:58:05 am
I do find how he and others are approaching the sport amazing and am genuinely interested in how this can help people of all grades, especially as an older climber who has a renewed keenness for one more try at doing something a bit hard. A different approach might see me getting beyond where i got before, and that is pretty motivating.

If however i see someone at the crag with a physio lying on the ground squirming through a visualization technique for any route lass than 9b i will humiliate them mercilessly.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on March 08, 2018, 12:14:41 pm
My take on this was the physio. was working as a coach/conditioner to suggest specific exercises to help with the very particular challenges of Silence.

I believe Ondra and TomPR, occasionally of this parish, have been in contact (someone's instagram). I imagine crack climbing may have been mentioned in passing!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on March 08, 2018, 12:21:34 pm
@GME: Watch the video. Klaus Isele told Ondra part of his beta wasn’t going to work because of physical limitations. He suggested alternatives. From 08:10 - 08:50 in the movie. Klaus Isele is a very competent climber. And the physio for the Austrian climbing team for years. More on Klaus: http://www.thecircuitclimbing.digital/klaus-isele/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 08, 2018, 12:45:16 pm
I thought that bit - like, errr, almost all the film - was really interesting. It's not movement advice as in beta, it's movement advice as in using specialist physio knowledge to see how either moves could be tweaked to fit in with muscular limitations or muscle usage could be tweaked to fit in with extreme movements. High end stuff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on March 08, 2018, 01:36:23 pm
If however i see someone at the crag with a physio lying on the ground squirming through a visualization technique for any route lass than 9b i will humiliate them mercilessly.

Don’t give Shark ideas.... ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on March 08, 2018, 04:08:20 pm
I'd love to make a punter version of that part, someone helping visualise sequence on a VS.

Bit like the Vic and Bob freerunning vid.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on June 29, 2018, 03:39:38 pm
Ondra on his plans for 2018, 2019 and 2020 (the World championships, Yosemite and Tokyo).

https://livellozero.net/en/adam-ondra-salathe-on-sight-attempt-and-training-for-the-olympics-2020/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 29, 2018, 06:56:12 pm
This one on the same site was much more fun
https://livellozero.net/en/new-9b-for-pirmin-bertle/

Beef like it is 1991. (One-sided beefs are the best. I particularly liked his wish that anyone (Adam) who downgrades his linkup should be speared on the horn of an ibex.)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on June 29, 2018, 10:23:28 pm
Ondra on his plans for 2018, 2019 and 2020 (the World championships, Yosemite and Tokyo).

https://livellozero.net/en/adam-ondra-salathe-on-sight-attempt-and-training-for-the-olympics-2020/

And rightfully slagging off speed climbing  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 06, 2018, 09:02:01 pm
Ondra just did his nineteenth 8c+ onsight with “First flight” in Canada. The route has previously been flashed by Alex Megos.

http://fanatic-climbing.com/first-flight-8c-a-vue-par-ondra-first-flight-8c-onsight-by-ondra/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mushin on July 11, 2018, 10:19:21 am
as well as 'second go flashing' a 9a+, which he downgraded to 9a.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BlEDlC_hYcU/?taken-by=adam.ondra

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 11, 2018, 11:15:11 am
I've been slightly curious to know if the performance of elite climbers display variation due to periodisation of load. For comp climbers this is not easy to investigate but for climbers performing mostly outdoors my idea is to track the monthly variation in best grade. Since Adam Ondra has a public scorecard I started with him.

The graph I made fits neatly into this thread. It shows the best performance/performances every month, and I only considered routes with "equivalent" grade 8c+ or harder, considering routes below that as not a performance.

(http://i.imgur.com/Eb5Vl9O.png) (https://imgur.com/Eb5Vl9O)

Note, on the y-axis: 8b+ os = 8c flash = 9a rp.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teapot on July 11, 2018, 11:19:51 am
as well as 'second go flashing' a 9a+, which he downgraded to 9a.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BlEDlC_hYcU/?taken-by=adam.ondra

How can a flash be 2nd go?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on July 11, 2018, 11:57:49 am
I think the "flashed" in quotes is pretty clear - not really a flash, but fell off at 4th bolt (on  45m 9a+) lower back down and then did the route clean with out having been on the rest of the route (assume .  Not a bad effort(!!) - just retaining the psyche to try to do it after failure low down is pretty impressive.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teapot on July 11, 2018, 01:48:38 pm
Yep I gathered that is what happened, but I have not heard of anyone using the term "flash" in that context.

Massively impressive as always, and I recognise that he is Adam Ondra, so he can call it whatever he wants.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on July 11, 2018, 02:33:08 pm
I think the "flashed" in quotes is pretty clear - not really a flash, but fell off at 4th bolt (on  45m 9a+) lower back down and then did the route clean with out having been on the rest of the route (assume .  Not a bad effort(!!) - just retaining the psyche to try to do it after failure low down is pretty impressive.

So, err, 'ground up' then. Assume this is the first 9a+ climbed ground up so not shit.

Would be (mildly) interesting to know if the crux is at the 4th bolt or not.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on July 11, 2018, 02:41:05 pm
Quote from: Ondrawad
Honour and Glory. Amazing 45m line up in Collosseum, scenic crag high above the town of Canmore was one of the reasons why I went to Canada. One of the few 9a+ (5.15a) that looked flashable and I still had not tried it.
Put up by @hauonearth last year, really tremendous effort to open and clean this line into this gem.
Yesterday was a special day. @hauonearth and @miles_adamson was there to share the beta with me (thank you so much!), @bigupclimbing @bernartwood and @sonnietrotter were there to film this for @reelrock . I felt ready. I set off and I felt awesome, just flowing up the route. Yet very soon, at 4th bolt it was all over. I did not want to waste my energy drying up my hand after touching a wet hold, as a good hold was getting closer, and this hand slipped. I lowered back to the ground immediately, rested for a few minutes and "flashed" the route on my 2nd go.
As for the grade though, my opinion is that it fits more into 9a (5.14d) range.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 11, 2018, 02:53:31 pm
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on July 11, 2018, 02:59:35 pm
Bit of info on here... (https://gripped.com/news/evan-haus-honour-and-glory-is-canadas-second-5-15/)

"about a 15-metre 5.14d to a mediocre rest followed by 30 metres of pumpy 5.14b climbing" includes "the first v10 crux right off the deck" - this v10 looks to be before the 4th bolt.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on July 11, 2018, 04:12:55 pm
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.

We won't be saying that when he knocks Rainman down to 9a+...   :no:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 11, 2018, 04:19:30 pm
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.

We won't be saying that when he knocks Rainman down to 9a+...   :no:

 :P nah will never happen. He thought Overshadow was hard 9a+.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on July 11, 2018, 04:25:01 pm
Never afraid to upset the locals by downgrading their pride and joy. RealMan.

We won't be saying that when he knocks Rainman down to 9a+...   :no:

 :P nah will never happen. He thought Overshadow was hard 9a+.

He's been on Rainman and suggested he thought it was 9b. i think we're safe.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 11, 2018, 04:26:11 pm
He might come here and DG Big Bang one day though. Liquid Ambar is blatantly harder after all (u reading Caff?).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on July 19, 2018, 10:50:36 pm
https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment/videos/10156360142431605/UzpfSTg4MDM0NjAyMjA0NTkxMzoxNzcyODg5Njc5NDU4MjA1/

50% skincare tips, 50% smashing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on July 19, 2018, 11:52:11 pm
Non fb link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdURnwMWhOE
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Murph on July 20, 2018, 09:09:06 am
Also, failing on a 7a  :o

Great skincare tips! I’ll have to remember to pack hand cream, plastic bags and fancy soap next time I go to the Tor.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on July 20, 2018, 11:16:43 am
Is the megos 9b in this area?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on July 20, 2018, 01:26:37 pm
Hes been trying the Megos 9b and failing and hes failing on his 9b project. Only a few days left.

Already seen him mentioning wet bits and snapped holds on it so hes getting his excuses in early. Could it be that we are about to see an Ondra fail. Might be more news worthy than him doing everything easily.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on July 20, 2018, 01:42:44 pm
Hes been trying the Megos 9b and failing

Megos must be on cloud 9 right now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on July 20, 2018, 02:27:37 pm
Awww quite poignant watching that (amazing production quality - does Ondra also have the world's best film-maker in support?). Lived in Canmore for 4 years and it's the driest air I've ever experienced. The Coliseum is an amazing place - remember when it first started to get developed by Ross Suchy and others. Like most of the better Canmore crags though it involves a Ceuse on steroids approach.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on July 21, 2018, 06:21:08 pm
He's done his own project, another 9b. https://www.instagram.com/p/BlgEjHZhvxz/?taken-by=adam.ondra

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 21, 2018, 07:08:02 pm
Sounds like a hard 9b version of Masterclass on Pen Trwyn. That makes me more dismayed than normal.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on July 21, 2018, 08:11:29 pm
Could it be that we are about to see an Ondra fail. Might be more news worthy than him doing everything easily.

Normal service is resumed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on July 21, 2018, 09:20:55 pm
Sounds like a hard 9b version of Masterclass on Pen Trwyn. That makes me more dismayed than normal.

Megos has probably put him off anyway with the talk of climbing on sea creatures!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 21, 2018, 09:23:40 pm
Sounds like a hard 9b version of Masterclass on Pen Trwyn. That makes me more dismayed than normal.

Megos has probably put him off anyway with the talk of climbing on sea creatures!

He was just a bit upset cos he fell off Statement.  :P Poor little soul.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on July 21, 2018, 09:27:54 pm
Awww poor lad!
Ondra: Statement to warm up, LA second warm up, Big Bang 3rd go  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 22, 2018, 05:42:25 am
Awww poor lad!
Ondra: Statement to warm up, LA second warm up, Big Bang 3rd go  ;D

LA flash attempt is what I’d like to see.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on July 23, 2018, 04:27:44 pm
Could it be that we are about to see an Ondra fail. Might be more news worthy than him doing everything easily.

Normal service is resumed.

Not quite normal service as he has failed to repeat Megos 9b. Looks like he only had 3 days on it but still a fail.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on July 23, 2018, 05:40:02 pm
Shit twat
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: karl s on October 31, 2018, 05:04:02 pm
He's back in Yosemite! Waiting for his gear to arrive including a 500m static line :o
Surprised I can't find anything on here, so excuse me if repeating what someone has already said.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on October 31, 2018, 05:13:01 pm
Interestingly he failed to onsight Book of Hate, wonder when he last fell of an 8b?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on October 31, 2018, 05:21:05 pm
When was the last time he tried one with no holds though? 2nd go is respectable I reckon on that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on October 31, 2018, 05:45:44 pm
Has it been onsighted or flashed before?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on October 31, 2018, 05:54:30 pm
The Leavitt first ascent footage on that thing is amazing! Nice warm up, wonder if he’s going for one of the groovy ones on El Cap, Muir Wall?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on October 31, 2018, 08:42:12 pm
Onsight attempt on The Salathe  (https://livellozero.net/adam-ondra-salathe-on-sight-attempt-and-training-for-the-olympics-2020/), like Yuji Hirayama 21 years ago.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 02, 2018, 01:33:51 pm
Meanwhile he did Dominator sit second go. Reported as 8a+. But with the heel hook method.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 02, 2018, 05:52:44 pm
Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bpn3ofIhiTk/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 02, 2018, 07:04:00 pm
Meanwhile he did Dominator sit second go. Reported as 8a+. But with the heel hook method.

“It’s called The Dominator not the fuckin Dominatrix” - Jerry Moffatt.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 03, 2018, 03:10:49 pm
Classic.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 03, 2018, 03:12:36 pm
Not Ondra's fault though.
People have been heel hooking on it for ages now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 03, 2018, 06:21:07 pm
Never seen anyone do that last move without cutting loose. He does it so easy.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 05, 2018, 12:03:19 am
He's on his way (salathe)...

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/

(in stories)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 05, 2018, 02:51:52 am
fell on the headwall
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 05, 2018, 07:31:12 am
fell on the headwall

More newsworthy than if he had done it!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 05, 2018, 09:08:42 am
Imagine the yelling.
Punter.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 05, 2018, 09:09:09 am
Shit twat.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 05, 2018, 09:24:25 am
Boo. Onsight is goooood mmmkay. But very hard.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 36chambers on November 05, 2018, 09:33:31 am
logpile. Ondra means nothing to me now.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 05, 2018, 09:39:55 am
He can’t have fallen I trusted him, me
It’s like he personally gave me the knee
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on November 05, 2018, 09:43:29 am
He can’t have fallen I trusted him, me
It’s like he personally gave me the knee

Have you started writing Haiku Shark? Did some one tell you they're good for aerocap??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on November 05, 2018, 11:12:30 am
Meanwhile he did Dominator sit second go. Reported as 8a+. But with the heel hook method.

“It’s called The Dominator not the fuckin Dominatrix” - Jerry Moffatt.

Jerry could have had a proper tea the night before if he'd just thought to use some technique.  ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on November 05, 2018, 11:28:55 am
Meanwhile he did Dominator sit second go. Reported as 8a+. But with the heel hook method.

“It’s called The Dominator not the fuckin Dominatrix” - Jerry Moffatt.

Jerry could have had a proper tea the night before if he'd just thought to use some technique.  ;)

I hadn't seen it done like this before another classic power problem ruined with technique.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on November 05, 2018, 11:46:28 am
I presume Meltdown is still unrepeated?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ru on November 05, 2018, 11:58:41 am
I presume Meltdown is still unrepeated?

A Spanish guy did it:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/05/2nd_ascent_of_the_meltdown_9a_by_ignacio_mulero-71598 (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/05/2nd_ascent_of_the_meltdown_9a_by_ignacio_mulero-71598)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on November 05, 2018, 12:05:09 pm
I would assume Andy is referring to Rodden's route in Yosemite of the same name, which I believe is unrepeated. I saw on Insta that Katha Sarwein was checking it out.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on November 05, 2018, 12:12:15 pm
Indeed, I was. I'm sure Ondra has plenty of big walls left to try but Meltdown seems like an obvious challenge - unrepeated for 10 years.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 05, 2018, 01:23:20 pm
He should have tried it when his fingers were still skinny.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 06, 2018, 08:20:16 am
He's already left yosemite I believe
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on November 08, 2018, 03:23:00 pm
Failed to onsight To Bolt or Not to Be. Did onsight Scarface and White Wedding - I guess an onsight of Just Do It is the target?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 08, 2018, 04:16:41 pm
Assume he got straight on TBONTB and did a quick redpoint?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on November 10, 2018, 08:25:21 am
2nd ascent of Drew Ruana's 'The Assassin', a stout 9a linkup of all the hard routes in Aggro Gully and the hardest route at Smith. He did this second day on and first try (having tried some of the individual routes it takes in before).

Here is Drew on the FA www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUHuxJPttXk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUHuxJPttXk)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 10, 2018, 08:56:59 am
Just Do It on sight coming up?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on November 10, 2018, 08:58:43 am
Yes I understand that may be on the agenda!  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: monkoffunk on November 10, 2018, 09:31:13 am
Assume he got straight on TBONTB and did a quick redpoint?

Not according to his 8a log book!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 10, 2018, 01:34:06 pm
Failed to onsight the Salathe, failed to onsight a miserable 1000 moves 8b+, jesuschrist Ondra pull your finger out or in a couple of months you'll find yourself arguing about HVS's on UKC.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on November 11, 2018, 12:15:40 am
Just did it. (https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/9vywfl/adam_ondra_onsighting_just_do_it_14c_at_smith/?st=JOC4LXR3&sh=647cccd2)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 11, 2018, 06:41:59 am
There you go.
Outstanding, on such a route.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on November 11, 2018, 10:57:52 am
Amazingly intricate type of route to onsight at this, or any, grade
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on November 11, 2018, 11:51:25 am
What a legend. With a massive crowd by the sounds of it...

Amazingly intricate type of route to onsight at this, or any, grade

Kingy might be able to shed some light on how onsightable the route is, since he's been on it so much. Is the sequence very complicated or difficult to read? Or relatively basic face-style climbing? I imagine some of the hand and footholds are quite bad...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 11, 2018, 01:04:40 pm
From Mountainproject:

Description
Haven't been on this myself, but figured it needed a description on MP. I think the most recent ascents (since 2012) of this classic route was by Ryan Palo, Paige Classen and Drew Ruana.

Palo describes it in an interview post-send:

"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."

It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."
It wasn't onsightable, until Ondra onsighted it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on November 11, 2018, 05:19:58 pm
Then it gets ruckus

?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 11, 2018, 05:46:59 pm
He’s can’t have too many historically significant routes from that era left. Still got the first 8c+ in the world to try OS  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Steve R on November 11, 2018, 06:01:24 pm
Then it gets ruckus

?
Too young to remember this (https://youtu.be/5-AkweXwoDs?t=21)?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on November 11, 2018, 06:16:52 pm
Then it gets ruckus

?
Too young to remember this (https://youtu.be/5-AkweXwoDs?t=21)?

Yes. Love it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on November 11, 2018, 07:01:11 pm
This is an absolutely phenomenal ascent!!!  :o :dance1: It took me 3 years and was at the very limit of my ability but I suppose he has the level to take in this kind of difficulty on sight. I have seen the Reddit video and he climbs it almost exactly like I did (there aren't many options, the top part in the purple rock is hard because its crimpy and powerful not because its massively technical).

The breakdown is like Ryan Palo says. The first 5 bolts are tricky vert with a particularly thin deadpoint to a crimp from a tiny sidepull by the 4th bolt and a really tweaky 2 finger pocket move by the 5th bolt. Then its pretty chill to the 8th bolt (around 7b). There is then a very tricky pocket move where you have to jump for a finger sloper - to onsight this is nuts. After that there are some easier move leading to the famous 'Sharma' rest just under the 10th bolt where he takes his jumper off (not quite hands off). If you have the bottom bit wired then I think its fair for 8a+, otherwise soft 8b (easier than Predator as there are lots of rests). Then there is a pumpy 7b+/7c leading to a good flat ledge to shake out by the 13th bolt. From here to the top is 8b (or 2 Font 7b+ boulders separated by the 'porthole' rest then some still tricky 'outro' moves).

Here is Drew Ruana on his ascent in 2015 www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-5om6lG_d8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-5om6lG_d8)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on November 11, 2018, 07:26:07 pm
Too young to remember this (https://youtu.be/5-AkweXwoDs?t=21)?

That hasn’t dated a bit. ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on November 11, 2018, 09:35:16 pm
Enduro 8c+ pretty middle of the road for ondra no?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 12, 2018, 09:54:52 am
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/9vywfl/adam_ondra_onsighting_just_do_it_14c_at_smith/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/9vywfl/adam_ondra_onsighting_just_do_it_14c_at_smith/)

Vid with customary sexy noises.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on November 12, 2018, 01:18:31 pm
https://www.mall.tv/jediny-pokus-1 first little vid from his trip, mainly driving/flying to the crag footage + Midnight Lightning. Looks promising for some good climbing footage to come in the future though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 13, 2018, 10:12:12 am
Brilliant, so inspiring!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 13, 2018, 07:27:56 pm
Shark, fire him.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 13, 2018, 09:19:23 pm
https://www.mall.tv/jediny-pokus-1 first little vid from his trip, mainly driving/flying to the crag footage + Midnight Lightning. Looks promising for some good climbing footage to come in the future though.

Must have been horribly nervous on Midnight Lightning as he almost looks a bit bothered on the easiest move
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 14, 2018, 11:15:26 am
Sorry, but I'm left feeling that mall.tv says it all.

We can all feel inspired by his climbing, but I guess Ondra's role is to inspire us all to consume more kit etc.

 :shrug:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 14, 2018, 12:41:36 pm
Over the last 30-odd years the climbing scene has had more than its fair share of less-than-cutting-edge climbers using sponsorship as a vehicle for self-promotion, and brands using them to push products. I'd have no argument with you pointing out that *they* basically exist to 'inspire us to consume more kit etc.'..
 
Ondra's one of the most inspiring climbers out there, simply by being the best and pushing standards. I wouldn't expect anything else but brands wanting to link with him to push their products. I think your comment would be better directed at those who aren't pushing standards but who are pushing products.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 14, 2018, 04:57:27 pm
Hi Pete.

I don't really agree with what you're saying there.

There's a great deal about Ondra's approach to climbing which has of course been inspirational. However, the point I was trying to emphasise is something I see increasingly, in the pursuit of something gratifying.

The notion that somehow, those climbers who aren't quite operating at the same level as Ondra, are less deserving of sponsorship through the promotion of brand/product sales etc, or that somehow Ondra's "status" should provide him with a protective bubble from the sort of observation I've tried to make, is in my mind, a non-starter.

I would argue that we can all look at how we approach the process of getting out there, seeking adventure. Perhaps the gratification we seek helps us turn a blind eye to how we achieve it. Me too of course.

The world around us, as something we "take from", is something we're no more immune from as climbers, than other users. There was something about that short introduction which seemed to emphasise something I found unsatisying.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 14, 2018, 05:08:36 pm

The notion that somehow, those climbers who aren't quite operating at the same level as Ondra, are less deserving of sponsorship through the promotion of brand/product sales etc, or that somehow Ondra's "status" should provide him with a protective bubble from the sort of observation I've tried to make, is in my mind, a non-starter.


That wasn't really what I was thinking or trying to say.
I just thought it odd, that of all the climbers in the world who you could pass comment on about 'selling out' to commercial interests - ''but I guess Ondra's role is to inspire us all to consume more kit etc.'' - Ondra is probably the last person I'd think of as an example. He's effectively the Lionel Messi or Ronaldo of climbing, i.e. the very best at his craft and pushing the standard like no-one else. Of course he's going to attract hefty commercial interest.

As for those operating at levels below Ondra (i.e. everyone else) of course they're worthy. But I think there does come a level of ability at which they could be said to qualify under your own characterisation: ''but I guess xyz's role is to inspire us all to consume more kit etc.''
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on November 14, 2018, 07:58:03 pm
Just did it. (https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/9vywfl/adam_ondra_onsighting_just_do_it_14c_at_smith/?st=JOC4LXR3&sh=647cccd2)

Legend.

Re-watched The Professionls (fave climbing flick), which has some great footage of the route: "'Just Do It' had small sharp holds that wore holes in their fingers, allowing only a few tries each day followed by a rest day".

 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 14, 2018, 09:01:48 pm
Replying to Pete, it's not about singling anyone out, more the emphasis - irrespective of who etc.

We could just as easily separate this off into the role of sponsors, commerce etc?

Anyway, I've got pull ups to do 😊
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on November 14, 2018, 10:27:45 pm
This is why I love Ondra. In that video where he explains to the bloke that he hasn't got any gear and the guy he's talking to invites him to climb with them, he doesn't even blink, just exclaims "hell yeah". I know the route suggested is a classic, but still he's just psyched. He's a climber's climber.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 15, 2018, 07:48:36 am
First day in Indian Creek.
"feels like a different sport"
Onsights Air Swedin.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 15, 2018, 07:54:46 am
the “hard” part is face climbing, so a 5.12- crack followed by some trivial hiking for Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 15, 2018, 08:09:19 am
 ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 15, 2018, 08:51:49 am
First day in Indian Creek.
"feels like a different sport"
Onsights Air Swedin.
The uncensored quote is: "Feels like a different sport, at which I excel anyway."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 15, 2018, 10:17:54 am
This is why I love Ondra. In that video where he explains to the bloke that he hasn't got any gear and the guy he's talking to invites him to climb with them, he doesn't even blink, just exclaims "hell yeah". I know the route suggested is a classic, but still he's just psyched. He's a climber's climber.

^^^  :agree:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 15, 2018, 11:32:41 am
Went to the Bristol Reel Rock last night - the footage of the SuperCrackinette flash (and celebration) is brilliant. The intensity of his visualisation routines is pretty weird to watch.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on November 15, 2018, 11:41:36 am
the “hard” part is face climbing, so a 5.12- crack followed by some trivial hiking for Ondra.

It's not exactly face climbing, it's slightly weird compression with an arete for one hand and a rubbish crack for the other, with sandy smears.  Hardly romping up a juggy 8a.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 15, 2018, 11:44:28 am
Shame he’s gonna spend most of next year doing comps and training for the Olympics.  :shit:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 15, 2018, 12:14:45 pm
the “hard” part is face climbing, so a 5.12- crack followed by some trivial hiking for Ondra.

It's not exactly face climbing, it's slightly weird compression with an arete for one hand and a rubbish crack for the other, with sandy smears.  Hardly romping up a juggy 8a.

I very much doubt there is an 7c+ with face holds that is not a romp for Ondra. That's like 6b+ for me. I doubt there is a 6b+ in the world I would fall off – and I have probably climbed way fewer routes at 6b+ and above than Ondra has climbed at 7c+ and above—, unless if's a very obscure style (a chimney in the Czech republic - say).

[Disclaimer: I turned around at the intermediate anchor some ten years ago, with bleeding fingers, so I have no idea what I'm talking about]
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 15, 2018, 12:19:05 pm
Speaking of, I also doubt that there are any routes in The Creek that cannot be laybacked by someone of Ondra's abilities. Some horrendous tips fingercrack that is sufficently splitter maybe?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 15, 2018, 12:24:54 pm
please tell me he's going to nip over to the white rim for century crack
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on November 15, 2018, 12:39:23 pm
Speaking of, I also doubt that there are any routes in The Creek that cannot be laybacked by someone of Ondra's abilities. Some horrendous tips fingercrack that is sufficently splitter maybe?

I'd like to see him layback Belly Full Of Bad Berries. I mean that literally.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 15, 2018, 01:21:02 pm
True, Belly would be a proud Dülfer!

I met a bunch of Japanese climbers, one of which I knew from Nagoya, in Indian Creek in 2007. One of them did one of the hard steep offwidth in Indian creek as a layback on preplaced gear at 8c or thereabouts. My friend did it straight in and left the cams in place for him. I can no longer recall which route it was.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on November 16, 2018, 07:24:55 am
belly full of bad berries second go (https://www.instagram.com/p/BqON8BzB2f_/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=ghh9rmv5ba39)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on November 16, 2018, 07:51:03 am
No layback. Shit twat.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Coops_13 on November 16, 2018, 08:22:29 am
belly full of bad berries second go (https://www.instagram.com/p/BqON8BzB2f_/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=ghh9rmv5ba39)
Well at least this confirms one thing, he's an avid reader of UKB! What else shall we get him do?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 16, 2018, 08:27:24 am
belly full of bad berries second go (https://www.instagram.com/p/BqON8BzB2f_/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=ghh9rmv5ba39)
Well at least this confirms one thing, he's an avid reader of UKB! What else shall we get him do?

3some with the WideBoyz.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on November 16, 2018, 08:57:03 am
Downclimb the Salathe?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 16, 2018, 11:21:43 am
Come to Wales for Liquid Ambar and Big Bang. Obvs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 30, 2018, 05:53:59 pm
Nice video from the Salathe headwall
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kZDukn5JnE
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: grimer on November 30, 2018, 07:21:30 pm
That's great.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on December 01, 2018, 10:08:05 am
That headwall! What a place! Am I right in thinking that when they say they're going to do the Salathe route, they actually mean Freerider, which is the free version of the Salathe? Or does Freerider avoid the headwall pitch? I don't remember seeing 8a+ mooted for Freerider.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: El Mocho on December 01, 2018, 10:33:05 am
That headwall! What a place! Am I right in thinking that when they say they're going to do the Salathe route, they actually mean Freerider, which is the free version of the Salathe? Or does Freerider avoid the headwall pitch? I don't remember seeing 8a+ mooted for Freerider.

Salathe (free and aid version) and Freerider are different.

Freerider follows Salathe as far as the pitch just below El Cap spire, it then does a variation to the left (Monster offwidth) which misses out a 5.13 (+?) crack pitch. It rejoins Salathe just above and follows it until the roof pitch below the headwall (so including the 5.12 corner you see Ondra on) at this point it travs. left 1 pitch (wild) before following 3 or 4 pitches up cracks on the very left edge of the headwall (really wild) and finishes up the last pitch or so of Salathe. Most of these variation pitches are on Excalibur and were prob first free climbed by Shipoopi although it was Alex Huber who first free climbed all the actual new pitches including the link traverses - he did these pitches in isolation, rope solo, whilst working Salathe free. Huber is credited with the first free ascent although it may have been Heinz Zak and Peter Jansek who first climbed the whole thing in a push (1998?). A few weeks later that season the Hubers climbed it free in a day (and overtook me and Patch who managed a near free shambles ascent of it) Freerider used to get 5.12d but a hold has come off the boulder problem pitch and I think it is now 13a.

When Todd and Paul 1st did Salathe they climbed the direct finger crack (the one below El Cap spire, Paul lead it I think) and rather than doing the boulder problem pitch (which is only just to the right of the aid line) they climbed the Teflon corner which is a bit to the left of the aid line. They then free climbed the headwall pitches (maybe with the odd extra belay??). They stuck pretty much to the original aid line - Teflon corner prob being the biggest variation and maybe a bit dif on the trav into hollow flake although with this being a pendulum the exact line would be vague anyhow.

When Huber repeated Salathe he did the same line as PP and TS except he didn't do the Teflon corner but did the boulder problem pitch (prob closer to the original line but had a bolt (or 2?) added)

It seems to be accepted that you can climb either the boulder prob pitch or the Teflon corner on both Freerider or Salathe, on freerider you def climb the Monster offwidth, on Salathe I would have thought you would have to climb Pauls finger crack pitch below the spire but I get the impression people do the Monster but I could be completely wrong about that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: UnkArl on December 01, 2018, 03:13:28 pm
What El Mocho said  :2thumbsup:
(http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/MaxWidth/wysiwyg_imageupload/1/Salathe.png)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mde on December 02, 2018, 09:44:52 am
But I guess Ondra climbed the Monster Offwidth rather than the 13+ crack below the spire?!? Does anyone know for sure?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 02, 2018, 10:10:06 am
What a legend even trying that. My Ondra-crush, which dipped briefly after his skin maintenance video, is fully gushing again. "It's one hundred million fucking degrees!!".....man I can identify with that so much....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Clart on December 22, 2018, 07:18:35 pm
https://youtu.be/krEwPAcQi9M
Good vid, he's obviously psyched for it but I do wonder if the screams are to make it sound like he's trying hard, looked quite comfy on it but could just be one of those routes where it looks smooth or you're off. Awesome effort either way.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 23, 2018, 03:58:58 am
Yes, great little vid.

I thought that looked hard, and Adam looked like someone who knows how to recruit everything when it's needed.

Full on commitment. Looked like a fantastic effort.

 :clap2:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: user deactivated on December 23, 2018, 07:03:03 am
I wonder what was in the yellow can, and is it available to the general public? Or do you have to go on the dark web
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 23, 2018, 02:45:33 pm
I wonder what was in the yellow can, and is it available to the general public? Or do you have to go on the dark web

By 'eck. It could be Boddington's, but I expect it's over-caffeinated sugary drink company Yellow Edition.

Either way, what you need to bottle is the psyche.

I've just watched the vid again, and what's most inspiring is what it means to Ondra.

For me, that's what matters. I find the numbers irrelevant.

I propose a separate forum section. We need a Psyche Library!
 :2thumbsup:

Mods?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: user deactivated on December 23, 2018, 02:56:43 pm
Christ tropical flavour over-caffeinated sugary drink company!!!  :sick:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: user deactivated on December 23, 2018, 02:59:19 pm
I’d be in favour of an anti psyche library full of whining, sarcasm, down beat lo fi grainy vids of minus ten, and general sneering at all things motivational
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on December 23, 2018, 03:50:09 pm
I wonder what was in the yellow can, and is it available to the general public? Or do you have to go on the dark web



I've just watched the vid again, and what's most inspiring is what it means to Ondra.

For me, that's what matters. I find the numbers irrelevant.

+1, he’s one of us just at a much higher level

I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on December 23, 2018, 03:51:41 pm
https://youtu.be/S6floyyDP-w

It's gets better
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 23, 2018, 04:31:43 pm
Yes, that's superb.

Thank you.

Always difficult to incite the old baldry climbers  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: shark on December 23, 2018, 04:35:51 pm
Great running commentary
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on December 23, 2018, 11:41:11 pm

I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind

Ben Cossey on Groove Train is another classic of the genre.

https://youtu.be/H-PsXKda6JU
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on December 24, 2018, 09:47:34 am

I’m fact my favourite videos are ones where it really gets to them at the belay. Ethan Pringle on Reina Mora is another one that comes to mind

Ben Cossey on Groove Train is another classic of the genre.

https://youtu.be/H-PsXKda6JU

I’m the fucking best
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on December 24, 2018, 10:58:00 am
Brilliant! Often find that sort of thing a bit dull, but Ondra’s commentary is a perfect blend of chat about the route, what’s going through his mind and general chat around the subject of hard onsighting.

Interesting he says he doesn’t think he has enough power in the tank to onsight 8c+ conservatively. Considering he has now redpointed 9c, flashed 9a+, onsighted 9a, bouldered 8C+? Flashed 8B+? Would have thought that would give him a bit more of a margin for error. Guess it just goes to show how hard onsighting becomes in the upper echelons!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 24, 2018, 11:19:39 am
Brilliant! Often find that sort of thing a bit dull, but Ondra’s commentary is a perfect blend of chat about the route, what’s going through his mind and general chat around the subject of hard onsighting.

Interesting he says he doesn’t think he has enough power in the tank to onsight 8c+ conservatively. Considering he has now redpointed 9c, flashed 9a+, onsighted 9a, bouldered 8C+? Flashed 8B+? Would have thought that would give him a bit more of a margin for error. Guess it just goes to show how hard onsighting becomes in the upper echelons!

Au contraire, I think it is totally normal. I would not expect anyone to be able to onsight conservatively just one half grade under their max o/s level, and just one number below their absolute rp max. E.g. I would expect a well rounded climber who barely onsight 8a, and having redpointed a single 8b+/c to cruise juggy stamina 7cs with enormous margin, but on 7c+s with some hard moves thrown in success would be far from assured.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 07, 2019, 05:55:35 pm
Watch the man himself struggle on an 8a like the rest of us.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/video-adam-ondra-belly-full-of-bad-berries-offwidth
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on January 07, 2019, 09:30:52 pm
Brilliant to see Ondra fighting on a hideous offwidth, refreshing.

I remember when I lived in Canada sometime around 2006 or 07 hearing that Dingdong onsighted or flashed this, anyone know?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on January 07, 2019, 10:57:56 pm
Thinking of Pete Whitaker perhaps? I thought his was the first flat/onsite
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on January 08, 2019, 09:30:13 am
No it was way before then, would have been '06 or 07. Just remember one of my Canadian housemates had heard about it and was amazed at this unknown brit wad haha.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on February 25, 2019, 10:59:55 pm
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aLKavMRf0do
Good video explainer for the Olympics format including scoring. There’s going to be a new training vid each week.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 28, 2019, 08:01:34 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14E1o_F51Ew

9as, 9a+ FAs, 8c multipitch onsights. Same old really.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on February 28, 2019, 06:36:21 pm
Cool, the project looks very good indeed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: UnkArl on February 28, 2019, 06:37:51 pm
Even a bit of disco/Elvis leg!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on February 28, 2019, 08:44:55 pm
Even a bit of disco/Elvis leg!!

There's little more satisfying than the sight of a wad having a wobbler.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on February 28, 2019, 09:36:16 pm
Gonna get me some Ondra patented deep water speedos!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on March 03, 2019, 10:21:47 am
I would like to know how much he bulked up over the last years. Massive arms, shoulders and even legs.
It didn't do him much harm, did it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on March 03, 2019, 10:56:55 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14E1o_F51Ew

9as, 9a+ FAs, 8c multipitch onsights. Same old really.

That film surely breaks records for the number of shots where there’s another cameraman or photographer in the frame- it’s like a climbing film and “making of” documentary combined.

I enjoyed it though. Great to see climbing in countries where you think “can you climb there? Is there even rock there?” (the answers usually seem to be “yes” and “more limestone than you could ever imagine”) as well as Ondra trying hard and being a beast. His bunny-hop method of climbing tufas makes it look so easy!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: James Malloch on March 04, 2019, 10:58:04 pm
https://youtu.be/skbgwOotypE

What climbing is all about...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 05, 2019, 12:22:05 pm
Interesting that he thinks no one on the world cup can beat Martin Stráník
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on March 05, 2019, 12:44:26 pm
Yeah, I would have thought Jan might be in with a shout? He did a good job of getting his own excuses in early on in the video too!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on October 01, 2019, 02:37:08 pm
Not a bad day ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: galpinos on October 01, 2019, 03:44:38 pm

I enjoyed watching Stefan Fürst belay him on Qui. What does Stefan Fürst do now? Still climbing?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Muenchener on October 01, 2019, 03:58:25 pm
Five minutes' googling the Austrosphere suggests he builds climbing walls for a living.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: galpinos on October 01, 2019, 05:42:47 pm
Five minutes' googling the Austrosphere suggests he builds climbing walls for a living.

Cheers. His hat game is strong too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bigironhorse on October 01, 2019, 09:23:24 pm
Not a bad day ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/

I am moving about an hour away from there in a few weeks, looks to be some great climbing in the area!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2019, 10:40:53 pm
The bar is set a bit high now, mind...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on October 02, 2019, 09:24:22 am
Not a bad day ...

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ESfK6Jh4m/

I am moving about an hour away from there in a few weeks, looks to be some great climbing in the area!

His ticklist there should fill a morning for you then..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: fatneck on October 11, 2019, 09:31:19 am
Not sure if these appeared anywhere else but these are a fascinating insight into the mind and sheer determination of the beast. The visualisation stuff is insane and I love it that he totally doesn't care what anyone else thinks... (skip 0.45 seconds to 1:58 to avoid the sender/reel rock bollocks)

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3msY2H7jhwM

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLaqRbP9GGk
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 11, 2019, 10:47:28 am
Cheers. Might be a bit depressing to watch given the current weather lol.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 14, 2019, 10:06:35 pm
Cheers for those fatneck. I get the impression they might not be strictly with Sender's blessings but what the heck, a brilliant watch, especially as I'd somehow completely forgotten about the climbs featured. You're right about the visualisation - and it's inspired me to try to visualise better when I need to do so. And the moves on that vert project, jeez, had me wincing.  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on October 15, 2019, 06:48:23 am
And the moves on that vert project, jeez, had me wincing.  :o

My thoughts exactly - is that the least likely 9b in the world to get a repeat? Looked horrendous, impressive determination.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ru on October 15, 2019, 07:46:27 am
My thoughts exactly - is that the least likely 9b in the world to get a repeat? Looked horrendous, impressive determination.

Possibly, but wierdness tends to attract someone who is really good at that style. The meltdown for instance. Ondra's pretty flexible but he's big with fat fingers. I could imagine a lighter (and possibly a shorter, depending on the reaches) climber, with thinner fingers getting on with those moves better. However it is in canada, which reduces the chance of a repeat.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: crzylgs on October 15, 2019, 12:43:45 pm
Damn... Last night I saved those video links for later viewing. They have now been taken down for copyright reasons :/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: rjtrials on October 15, 2019, 01:26:08 pm
Damn... Last night I saved those video links for later viewing. They have now been taken down for copyright reasons :/

They are on the over-caffeinated sugary drink company website
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on October 15, 2019, 01:38:04 pm
They are on the over-caffeinated sugary drink company website

Cool, didn’t realise that there was Reel Rock stuff freely available on there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 21, 2019, 08:27:15 pm
Good to see the ondrawad still has time for scatty limestone caves.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEqcQbqM0qI
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on October 21, 2019, 09:29:45 pm
I love the appearance of his granny and grandad at the crag (complete with large box of produce from their garden). That needs to become the new "driving to the crag."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on October 22, 2019, 10:58:51 am
So good, love the post credits explaining of dabbing to his grandma too!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Dexter on October 22, 2019, 12:42:29 pm
So good, love the post credits explaining of dabbing to his grandma too!

The perfect clip to show to anyone who's been in the bring out your dabs thread
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on October 25, 2019, 12:56:07 pm
That was appalling. The venue / problem that is. Almost as bad as Ben's Roof or Parisellas or some other god awful seeping choss inverted urinal trench of slippery rubble  :sick: .

The video was nice tho, seeing his charmingly normal grandparents watching the usual world class performance  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ru on October 25, 2019, 07:11:27 pm


Well that's my point. I'm sure Acephale is lovely but, like Malham, I'm pretty sure that in terms of 9b hosting venues it has a below average passing trade of 9b climbers, which reduces the relative chances of a repeat. Out of interest, I checked out the 20-odd 9bs Ondra's done - in terms of the number of logged ascents on 8a.nu, Acephale is the 4th least popular venue, the others being a crag in Czech and 2 in the south of France. I know that's a really rough and ready measure of the chance of a 9b repeat but it supports my feeling that, however popular Acephale is in absolute terms, in relative terms it is less likely to see a 9b repeat than the average 9b hosting crag.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 15, 2019, 08:21:05 am
2x 8C FAs and an 8B FA, just another day at the office.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2536739783073187&substory_index=0&id=880346022045913
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 15, 2019, 04:31:29 pm
I bet the majority of the worlds elite king line seeking boulderers look on sneering at Ondras mega hard lime chossfests in Czech. But the man just likes pulling down on anything and everything .
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on November 15, 2019, 04:40:38 pm
Who doesn't like lime chossfests anyway?!

 :tumble:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 15, 2019, 04:53:07 pm
Who doesn't like lime chossfests anyway?!

 :tumble:

Dan Varian?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 15, 2019, 05:05:59 pm
Anyone with the slightest sense of dignity, taste, and aesthetic appreciation  :chair:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 15, 2019, 05:15:12 pm
It’s possible to appreciate both a microwave Lasagne and Michelin starred fine dining.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on November 15, 2019, 05:33:53 pm
I reckon he can sense unsent climbs; crimps within 10 miles that haven't been crushed into submission make him feel itchy.  He has to climb them, no matter how lacking in any tactile or aesthetic qualitity, otherwise the sensation makes him antsy and he can't concentrate on his visualisation and yoga.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on November 15, 2019, 05:49:26 pm
It’s possible to appreciate both a microwave Lasagne and Michelin starred fine dining.

Superb
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 15, 2019, 07:14:30 pm
It’s possible to appreciate both a microwave Lasagne and Michelin starred fine dining.

The one time I posted something with EXACTLY the same fucking message about the breadth of food experiences, all the fucking knobends on here jumped down my throat like I'd raped their dogs in front of them.

In fact I'd almost punter you for the fact you'll inevitably get away with it, but it's not your fault they're morons.

Grotty limestone caves are still shit tho. More like microwaved building site rubble than microwave lasagne.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on November 15, 2019, 07:32:35 pm
It’s possible to appreciate both a microwave Lasagne and Michelin starred fine dining.

The one time I posted something with EXACTLY the same fucking message about the breadth of food experiences, all the fucking knobends on here jumped down my throat like I'd raped their dogs in front of them.

In fact I'd almost punter you for the fact you'll inevitably get away with it, but it's not your fault they're morons.

Grotty limestone caves are still shit tho. More like microwaved building site rubble than microwave lasagne.
Nought wrong with raping dogs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 15, 2019, 07:39:39 pm
Grotty limestone caves are still too hard for me though.

Fixed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 15, 2019, 08:30:20 pm
Hey everything is too hard for me, I'd rather fail on something appealing tho.

Hang on a sec that might not be true. Maybe I should give failing in grotty caves a go, then I can walk away happy that I didn't do anything.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: kingholmesy on November 15, 2019, 09:08:26 pm
Maybe I should give failing in grotty caves a go, then I can get stronger.

Fixed that too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2019, 08:26:24 am
all the fucking knobends on here jumped down my throat li

Deep Throat you must have.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 05, 2020, 04:00:25 pm
Good interview with Ondra in Alpine mag
https://alpinemag.fr/legende-escalade-adam-ondra-interview-exclusive/

Quote
On the men's side, I think the current elite climbers are not fundamentally much stronger than the Jerry Moffatt or Ben Moon of the 90s. In terms of strength on a campus board, we don't really do any better. But you need a lot more than pure strength, and fortunately, today we don't have to train on the shitty walls of those days!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on June 01, 2020, 08:17:25 pm
Pushing the boundaries of dirty limestone cave linkups

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiutwLqQZFs
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: monkoffunk on June 20, 2020, 03:12:14 pm
Is there a knee bar thread??

https://youtu.be/rEqUiPhyxFM
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on June 21, 2020, 06:09:17 pm
A neoprene clad Ondra grunting over the perfect kneebar. That could be some proper pr0n for someone...
 ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Coops_13 on July 17, 2020, 10:27:43 pm
Ondra flashing 8B:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1nO0gSp9Cw
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 04, 2020, 09:49:03 pm
Couple of laps on a 9a while waiting for skin to recover, just another day in the life.

https://adamondra.com/updates/tierra-de-nadie-9a
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on November 05, 2020, 09:21:54 am
One for the kneebar thread that!

Also, love how in Spain their "obscure roadside cave" would probably be one of the best crags in the UK  ::)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on December 07, 2020, 11:24:46 am
I'm always a massive fan of the Ondra vids, but these latest ones are doing my head in a bit with all the moaning about conditions.  It seems a bit distasteful given the current state of the world to be calling a video about high humidity "get me out of this hell".

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on December 07, 2020, 12:46:09 pm
I think you’re in a minority Ged looking at the number of likes on YouTube for that vid. He’s not the only pro sportsperson who comes across as somewhat, er, let’s say too self-absorbed to be taking a step back and looking at the big picture. At least he can get on his project unlike lots of sportspeople who cannot compete at all, or very little due to Covid. I’ve more sympathy for their frustrations.

Anyway, I’m going to send him a very small violin for Christmas.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JohnM on December 07, 2020, 12:54:58 pm
I agree with Ged that it come across a bit OTT with everything else going on in the world. However, I can see how it must be frustrating for him as it can be for any climber at any level. Given his pedigree and his huge amount of success it seems he has found a really battle both physically and mentally and with conditions. It is in contrast to Jakob's repeat of the route where although it seemed that he also had a bit of a battle but did it relatively quickly with minimal fuss. He may have had good conditions though IDK. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamieG on December 07, 2020, 03:41:10 pm
Having gone down the blog style video series route, I suspect the pressure on him must be immense. All credit to for him for trying to show us an insight into the process of climbing at the absolute cutting edge, but I don't envy him. I manage to put enough pressure on myself and (almost) nobody cares what I do and don't climb. I thought the 'hell' comment was quite tongue in cheek anyway. I don't think he was being that serious.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on December 07, 2020, 05:58:26 pm
Such is the life of the professional athlete, it's always going to look a bit petty to people with "normal" lives/responsibilities. Especially so during a pandemic. That's hardly their fault, although sometimes there does seem an alarming lack of self-awareness.

As another example, I see Nalle Hukkataival has spent the last few weeks in Peru developing a new bouldering area, despite Peru having one of the worst coronavirus crises in South America. I mean, he's literally just doing his job, but is it a good idea?

Going back to the debate we were having before about Ondra's film crew etc., you can now read about the team.....

https://adamondra.com/updates/wolf-pack?fbclid=IwAR0R7xrvo8LCI9wQzT9A43uX-q1h-B5Wg4c_fvBfwD1Vg4LXZQV5dNPSK5o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JohnM on December 08, 2020, 08:21:23 am
Such is the life of the professional athlete, it's always going to look a bit petty to people with "normal" lives/responsibilities. Especially so during a pandemic. That's hardly their fault, although sometimes there does seem an alarming lack of self-awareness.

As another example, I see Nalle Hukkataival has spent the last few weeks in Peru developing a new bouldering area, despite Peru having one of the worst coronavirus crises in South America. I mean, he's literally just doing his job, but is it a good idea?

Going back to the debate we were having before about Ondra's film crew etc., you can now read about the team.....

https://adamondra.com/updates/wolf-pack?fbclid=IwAR0R7xrvo8LCI9wQzT9A43uX-q1h-B5Wg4c_fvBfwD1Vg4LXZQV5dNPSK5o

Nalle seems to have gone down some annoying anti-capitalist route on his social media. His whole life is funded by capitalism.  :slap:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 09, 2020, 12:11:52 pm
Having gone down the blog style video series route, I suspect the pressure on him must be immense. All credit to for him for trying to show us an insight into the process of climbing at the absolute cutting edge, but I don't envy him. I manage to put enough pressure on myself and (almost) nobody cares what I do and don't climb. I thought the 'hell' comment was quite tongue in cheek anyway. I don't think he was being that serious.

I think that's fair enough. It's a video blog more about climbing than overall global issues (although as Bradders says, a bit of self-awareness is good). Maybe there's a bit of escapism for the viewers too, just like a lot of media viewing, forgetting about larger concerns and watching the ups and downs of something "less" important but identifiable-with. No worse than being tempted to throw yourself off Malham after persistent redpoint tribulations anyway!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 09, 2020, 02:47:24 pm
This 3 video a week regime that Ondra’s on will eventually suck all the life and joy out of it for him. The sad but inevitable conclusion will come after 50 days on Bibliographie - after 6 weeks of vlogs about being tired from the walk and Ceuse being 10 degrees warmer than usual due to global warming he’ll be so riddled with anxiety and stress he’ll throw the cameras down the hill and fly around the hill on his drone wailing like a banshee.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on December 09, 2020, 02:59:35 pm
This 3 video a week regime that Ondra’s on will eventually suck all the life and joy out of it for him. The sad but inevitable conclusion will come after 50 days on Bibliographie - after 6 weeks of vlogs about being tired from the walk and Ceuse being 10 degrees warmer than usual due to global warming he’ll be so riddled with anxiety and stress he’ll throw the cameras down the hill and fly around the hill on his drone wailing like a banshee.

Can't wait to see the vlog of that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on December 13, 2020, 09:10:26 pm
Ondra complaining about 78% humidity, I’d settle for a couple of days under 90% right now!

These vids are pretty turgid affairs, I wonder if every pro near his level are quite so analytical, or if some are a bit more A Muerte...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 13, 2020, 09:32:53 pm
Ondra complaining about 78% humidity, I’d settle for a couple of days under 90% right now!

...

He wants the moon on a stick ! All this fuss and it’s prob 9b now with 3 kneebars  ::)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on December 13, 2020, 09:52:51 pm
What I find more fascinating than the route - which seems to boil down to one boulder-problem move to catch a pinch very much like the move on that local's classic 7c+ 'Wirral Whip' at Llandullas Cave - is watching Ondra turning into an cynical old man in front of our eyes, learning the bad habits of negative self-talk and moaning about conditions. At this rate of advance by the time he finally leaves Margelef he'll be talking about optimising returns from his pension fund and how kids these days never had it so good.     
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on December 13, 2020, 10:32:07 pm
Bloody hell 4 people filming from ropes plus a drone. He must be very good at shutting out the noise. And pretty convinced YouTube is a good money maker!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on December 14, 2020, 10:32:48 am
Ondra complaining about 78% humidity

Correct me if I'm wrong but I wouldn't turn my nose up at 78% humidity in the middle of summer. Whats considered normal?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 14, 2020, 10:58:39 am
if it is around 15C, there is not point tying in for a hard project if the humidity is above 65% according to some people I talked to who should know.

In Spain it seems like every decent climber bring one of those combined thermometer / hygrometers to the crag nowadays.

I dunno, I can feel when it is sticky or not. Don't really think a measuring device other than the skin is necessary... but maybe I am missing a trick here? Maybe a hygrometer is the secret to unlocking the next grade
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: m.cooke.1421 on December 14, 2020, 12:05:53 pm
For a more accurate measure of how condensed the rock will be I think you need to look at; air temperature, relative humidity, air pressure (these three are what determine the dew point), rock temperature, wind speed and direction.

I don't know the crag but I would imagine a still day where it has been cold at night and is pretty warm and humid in the day with the crag being shaded could give shit conditions whereas a breezy day on the catwalk in June when it has had the sun on it in the morning would be mint in the afternoon. Both days could be 78% relative humidity.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 14, 2020, 12:22:38 pm
For a more accurate measure of how condensed the rock will be I think you need to look at; air temperature, relative humidity, air pressure (these three are what determine the dew point), rock temperature, wind speed and direction.


I think you need both dry-bulb and wet-bulb air temperatures to determine the dew point exactly, but my classes in thermodynamics are more than twenty-five years behind me. Surely if the humidity is above 60% you can just linearise anyway? (Said with the confidence of a dilettante).

Still I doubt all those measurements are better than touching rock with skin.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: m.cooke.1421 on December 14, 2020, 12:58:44 pm
I have absolutely no idea. It sounds like you have done a lot more than spend 10 minutes googling things which is the limit of knowledge on the subject. I just wanted to make the point that the rock conditions when Jim has climbed at 78% humidity could be vastly different to what Adam is contending with.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on December 14, 2020, 02:39:28 pm
Nice explanation here:

https://sciencing.com/weather-affect-us-23423.html

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on December 14, 2020, 03:41:05 pm
Some more climbing specific stuff here:

https://medium.com/@loukusa/science-friction-62058792d565

Not sure how good the science is , but backs up what I generally understood about relative humidity needing to be looked at in context of temperature which impact total amount of water that air can hold.  So relative humidty of 78% would be absolutely fine at 10 degrees, might be pretty sub-optimal at 20 degrees, and actively unpleasant by the time hit 25 degrees.

https://www.mrfixitbali.com/images/articleimages/dew-point-chart-full.pdf
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Stu Littlefair on December 14, 2020, 04:26:55 pm
This page (https://www.e-education.psu.edu/meteo3/l4_p4.html) and the following three present all the science in the correct way. Bulk quantities of the air - like dew point - are a useful but crude proxy to what you really want to know.

What you really want to know is the rate of evaporation and condensation onto the rock surface. For this you need to know:

The relative humidity is some complex function of ii and iii, but measured for the air in bulk. This can be quite different to the conditions near the rock's surface. The air just above the rock can be at a quite different temperature to the bulk air temperature if it's still, since the rock will cool a layer above it.  See also dank limestone caves.

The rock temperature might be near the ambient temperature, or well above or well below it; depending on the history of heating (sun, shade, wind) - sometimes over timescales of a day or two if it's a big lump of rock.

Put all this together and you can understand phenomena like limestone caves condensing the day after a temperature spike. You can also imagine creating a mathematical model that is a relatively robust predictor for conditions on any given day, but it's going to be a lot more complex than a toy hygrometer, and no more reliable than going by feel on your warm up. 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on December 14, 2020, 05:28:20 pm
Put all this together and you can understand phenomena like limestone caves condensing the day after a temperature spike. You can also imagine creating a mathematical model that is a relatively robust predictor for conditions on any given day, but it's going to be a lot more complex than a toy hygrometer, and no more reliable than going by feel on your warm up.

I've been contemplating a project where you'd build little remote sensing stations that'd gather data from key crags around the peak. You'd then use that data to predict conditions at the crag on a given day, work out when's the optimal time to go for your last burn of the day, predict seepage etc.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on December 14, 2020, 05:59:43 pm
Rock temp is the hardest to get. For that ideally you’d drill a series of holes of different depths with a sensor at the bottom of each one. Rock has a low thermal inertia - so takes a long time to warm up and cool down etc. That’s the key to working out the condensation game...

But it needn’t be a fancy bit of rock. An old bit of choss next to the road might work etc..

Unfortunately from experience of placing sensors in the field (usually rain gauges/flow gauges) its humans who are the problem - ripping them up or pinching bits. Because they can etc...

It’s something I’ve mused about too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dunnyg on December 14, 2020, 06:05:42 pm
Put them half way up a cliff so they atleast have to put some effort in. Saying that, the places I've seen camera traps disappear from suggests nowhere is safe!
Get a grant proposal in!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on December 14, 2020, 06:20:22 pm
Put all this together and you can understand phenomena like limestone caves condensing the day after a temperature spike. You can also imagine creating a mathematical model that is a relatively robust predictor for conditions on any given day, but it's going to be a lot more complex than a toy hygrometer, and no more reliable than going by feel on your warm up.

I've been contemplating a project where you'd build little remote sensing stations that'd gather data from key crags around the peak. You'd then use that data to predict conditions at the crag on a given day, work out when's the optimal time to go for your last burn of the day, predict seepage etc.

Throw in some ML and AI, and you have an innovate UK funding proposal sorted!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on December 14, 2020, 06:32:01 pm
What with climbing being in the olympics and all that I’m sure we can swing some extra ££.

Anyway - in Ondranews I see from his IG that he now has 250k YouTube subscribers... plucked from google I found this:

Quote
The average YouTuber with a million subscribers makes about $5000 a month.

So that might explain a bit of the funding model...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2020, 09:45:08 pm


I dunno, I can feel when it is sticky or not. Don't really think a measuring device other than the skin is necessary..

If I can't click my fingers they're too hot to climb anything. That bar is probably a bit high for hard sends though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 14, 2020, 11:12:31 pm
What with climbing being in the olympics and all that I’m sure we can swing some extra ££.

Anyway - in Ondranews I see from his IG that he now has 250k YouTube subscribers... plucked from google I found this:

Quote
The average YouTuber with a million subscribers makes about $5000 a month.

So that might explain a bit of the funding model...

Why bother for about a £1000 a month? Hardly seems worth the effort and stress?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on December 15, 2020, 07:08:26 am
If his numbers are anything like lattice he'll be making a lot more than £1k/month with 250k subscribers.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on December 15, 2020, 08:33:19 am
If his numbers are anything like lattice he'll be making a lot more than £1k/month with 250k subscribers.

Adam needs to get an old sofa to chat on - making sure he makes all his conversation points clear by talking slowly and repeating them three times 😁

Maybe we should start a campaign on his YouTube comments and get him to explain humidity? 👍😂
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yossarian on December 15, 2020, 10:26:03 am
What with climbing being in the olympics and all that I’m sure we can swing some extra ££.

Anyway - in Ondranews I see from his IG that he now has 250k YouTube subscribers... plucked from google I found this:

Quote
The average YouTuber with a million subscribers makes about $5000 a month.

So that might explain a bit of the funding model...

Why bother for about a £1000 a month? Hardly seems worth the effort and stress?

Because Black Diamond are paying him £2000 an episode? And Sportiva, and (maybe) Volkswagen...?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on December 23, 2020, 11:22:30 am
Having someone follow you on a boulder problem with a fan is so passé, looks like the new cool is to have a lackey on a rope following you up the route with a fan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tLe74Xwgx4&t=167
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 23, 2020, 12:14:47 pm
Having someone follow you on a boulder problem with a fan is so passé, looks like the new cool is to have a lackey on a rope following you up the route with a fan
We could be getting very close to an imaginary line that should not be crossed.
While I'm typing this, I hear the tiniest violin on Earth playing for Ondra, who had only 5 actual days on the route on 44 spent climbing in Spain during a World tragedy.
That was really a bad taste moment.
Luckily...
(https://regoslife.files.wordpress.com/2017/06/the-iron-never-lies-to-you-henry-rollins-quotes-regos-life-quotes.png)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on December 23, 2020, 12:24:20 pm
Even by my standards that seems a bit excessive!


I hear the tiniest violin on Earth playing for Ondra, who had only 515 actual days on the route on 44 spent climbing in Spain
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on December 23, 2020, 02:32:10 pm
That looks like the least fun climbing trip ever. For everyone.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on December 23, 2020, 02:42:14 pm
Ignoring the fan (ridiculous) and the attitude shown (nothing really new here, he's always been one of the loudest climbers about) I've really enjoyed this series.

The tension built at times has been good, the videos are very well produced and it's pretty refreshing to follow along with the process and to have seen him fail. It goes against the grain of video after video showing nothing but victories. Yes he's pretty whiny at times but part of the reason he's the world's best climber is that he cares so much and every little thing matters.

Agree that it doesn't look like much fun for anyone but that's kind of the reality of projecting; it's hard work! Type 2 fun but emotional rather than physical suffering maybe.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on December 23, 2020, 02:47:47 pm
He’ll feel good for about 20 minutes when he does it then it’ll wear off and it’ll be onto more torture on the next thing. Funny old sport .
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on December 23, 2020, 02:51:00 pm
Madness init.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on December 23, 2020, 03:01:54 pm
Yes he's pretty whiny at times but part of the reason he's the world's best climber is that he cares so much and every little thing matters.


This. Elite athletes do not get to elite status with a happy go lucky attitude.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on December 23, 2020, 04:19:37 pm
Yes he's pretty whiny at times but part of the reason he's the world's best climber is that he cares so much and every little thing matters.


This. Elite athletes do not get to elite status with a happy go lucky attitude.

And maybe a bit of shock to his system - his climbing career has overwhelmingly been about success so far.  Even where he's had to project really hard it's been on first ascents and he's repeated more of other peoples hardest routes that anyone else in the world. In this case its a route that's already had 3 ascents and despite it not being his style and he may have hoped to get it done fairly quickly.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on December 23, 2020, 04:42:36 pm
He looks like he’s fighting, not flowing. Interesting to watch. Not sure the excuses are doing him any favours at this point as he just doesn’t look like he’s strong enough on that mono. Even when he makes it through the move he’s knackered!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on December 23, 2020, 08:11:38 pm
That’s what I thought, he looked totally gassed when got through ‘the move’, I don’t remember thinking that from the other ascents but haven’t been back and watched.

That scene where there’s a tonne of people just standing around watching him be sad it pretty crazy.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Sasquatch on December 27, 2020, 07:05:51 pm
I think it's fascinating to compare the videos that Ghisolfi has been putting out about working and sending a 9b+ vs watching the videos Ondra has put out. 

He looks like he’s fighting, not flowing. Interesting to watch. Not sure the excuses are doing him any favours at this point as he just doesn’t look like he’s strong enough on that mono. Even when he makes it through the move he’s knackered!
   :agree:

It's amazing to me how poor he climbs up to the crux on a few of the goes.  It's as though the moves are "so easy" he's trying to go faster, but ending up doing it so inefficiently. Very strange.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on December 27, 2020, 09:26:49 pm
It's all a ruse. He's just hamming up being shit to have his opponents drop their guard prior to the Olympics. He's going to thrash and they'll be wondering how he made such a comeback. Cheeky Ondra.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on December 28, 2020, 07:11:17 am
It's been interesting to see him fail here. Perfecto seems to be a straight fight with few opportunities for tricks. Ondra is so good at so many aspects of rock climbing it's somehow strange to realise that he's probably not the best in this specific style, even though he was quite open about his weaknesses at the beginning of this series. Good to see really.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: MischaHY on December 28, 2020, 08:59:04 am
It's been interesting to see him fail here. Perfecto seems to be a straight fight with few opportunities for tricks. Ondra is so good at so many aspects of rock climbing it's somehow strange to realise that he's probably not the best in this specific style, even though he was quite open about his weaknesses at the beginning of this series. Good to see really.

There was potential foreshadowing on this when he didn't get up that 9a+ on monos (I think in Poland?) even with multiple sessions - not that 9a+ should be easy, but actually yeah for Ondra it should be 'doable' compared to his overall level. In 'Wizards Apprentice' he gets injured on Demencia Senil (IIRC) and bails on the trip - granted a long time ago but maybe it's just simply the weaker side of someone that we're used to seeing smash everything he tries.

Then again he's done a massive amount of 9's in Franken so maybe it's all conjecture!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on December 28, 2020, 09:31:11 am
I might be getting the wrong end of the stick here but I don't understand why people seem to be saying his was such a poor effort.  He had 15 days on it, the same as megos did for the first ascent, and he seemed to get pretty close despite it being not to his style and the conditions did seem pretty poor (unless he was fibbing). Maybe it is just that we don't get to see top level climbers try things at their limit and they sure don't go to a route they know doesn't suit them and film it in almost excruciating detail.

I really like the ondra videos, the bits when he digs up the past pioneers are really great. I think his willingness to share and embrace his failures is pretty impressive and maybe in part why he is the best rock climber ever  :worms:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on December 28, 2020, 10:55:17 am
I guess we just expect more from Ondra as he sets his own bar so high! Schubert repeated it on a 3 week trip in between qualifying for the Olympics. Ondra has trained specifically for the route and has had how ever many weeks there and only climbed on it on the best days.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on December 28, 2020, 02:17:28 pm
The thing is there wasn't a whole video series dedicated to anyone else's attempts or ascents. 

Maybe schubert had mint conditions (although schubert must be up there in terms of the best in the world),  maybe megos had terrible conditions and his ascent even more impressive.  Who knows unless you were there?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: bendavison on December 28, 2020, 03:53:25 pm
...and the conditions did seem pretty poor (unless he was fibbing)...

According to 8a.spew, Ella Adamowska has just done an 8c+ in Margalef and said "even though the conditions are much better than the last winter", which suggests they weren't total shit this year. Having said that, I think the 8c+ was at a different sector (south facing) than Perfecto (north facing), so they'll get different winds and dry at different speeds, and maybe conditions were really poor last year...

Either way, I was disappointed in Ondra in this mini-series - he seemed to get demoralised very quickly and make lots of excuses rather than focus on solutions (perhaps an editorial choice). Also in the scheme of things, 15 sessions on a route one grade below your max and not in your style doesn't seem like a huge investment to me, especially when time isn't a factor (he doesn't have another job to get back to). I was amazed he spat the dummy considering he got through the crux on his last go - I'd have thought that would have got him properly fired up to stay and finish it.

I enjoy watching videos of people struggling and fighting through difficulty, but this didn't hit the mark for me.

It's amazing to me how poor he climbs up to the crux on a few of the goes.  It's as though the moves are "so easy" he's trying to go faster, but ending up doing it so inefficiently. Very strange.   

Agreed, he looks sloppy and imprecise. Also looks like he might have lost weight through the series.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 28, 2020, 03:58:46 pm
It's all a ruse. He's just hamming up being shit to have his opponents drop their guard prior to the Olympics. He's going to thrash and they'll be wondering how he made such a comeback. Cheeky Ondra.

This is exactly what I have advised him to do
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on December 28, 2020, 07:39:01 pm
Maybe schubert had mint conditions (although schubert must be up there in terms of the best in the world),  maybe megos had terrible conditions and his ascent even more impressive.  Who knows unless you were there?

I was there last year and this year. Haven’t been to the sector with PM both times, but got an insight into how conditions at Margalef/Siurana this year have been worse then other years.

Conditions were hot and dry (17 degrees) at first last year when Schubert was on PM but the temperature dropped by more than 10 degrees and it got cold, dry and windy. Perfect conditions for climbing at Salt de La Reina Mora in Siurana or Espadelles in Margalef and way to cold for me to climb at a north facing crag in Margalef. But apparently exactly what Schubert needed to climb PM.

This year we didn’t arrive to the Siurana/Margalef area untill the last week Ondra spent in Margalef. Conditions during the first 2 weeks of our stay at the north facing sectors in Margalef were awful despite the often sunny weather. North facing sectors as well as the undergrowth and paths were very humid or even soaked. Several days of good weather (no rain) with decent to fine conditions on south facing sectors (cracks stayed humid though) made no difference to the north facing valleys and sectors. Everything stayed humid/wet/soaked until 3 days ago when dry, cold and windy conditions finally arrived. Within two days the vegetation and paths were dry and frozen actually. Ça colle maintenant if you can dodge the wind.

Ondra encountered a period with unseasonally humid weather and despite the bad luck did an impressive job almost sending PM.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on December 28, 2020, 09:51:44 pm
I think it's worth remembering that 9b+ is still fucking hard. It's a grade that's only ever been climbed 8 times (3 of those ascents by our lord and saviour), and Stefano Ghisolfi is the only person other than Ondra who has climbed it more than once.

I know the Ondrawad often spoils us with displays of climbing magic, but I don't think it's that surprising that he can fail on something super hard and not in his style.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on December 28, 2020, 10:21:50 pm
I would give Ondra a break, connies sounded shite for the most part, he wasn't exaggerating by the sound of it. Not a bad effort all things considered, i appreciated all the geeky detail and insight
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 29, 2020, 06:11:39 pm
I pass on the characteristically blunt comment from my better half:  “anyone trying to climb a hard route in Spain in December is an idiot”.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2020, 07:13:42 pm
 :lol: Well at least he's not trying anything daft like trying to climb hard on a south-face sheltered suntrap crag in Spain in December....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on December 29, 2020, 07:59:46 pm
I pass on the characteristically blunt comment from my better half:  “anyone trying to climb a hard route in Spain in December is an idiot”.

Excuse my ignorance, but whys that then? I would've thought December is prime for cooler weather?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 29, 2020, 08:22:25 pm
Much of Spain north of Valencia is often plagued by condensation in December. Short days as well, with lots of crags having dew until midday and then getting more dew at around 4-5 o'clock. And most sectors north of Lleida are plagued by the infamous Lleida fog. January is better and February is much better. Just as cold and much dryer. December is for climbing in the sun.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 29, 2020, 08:49:27 pm
Much of Spain north of Valencia is often plagued by condensation in December. Short days as well, with lots of crags having dew until midday and then getting more dew at around 4-5 o'clock. And most sectors north of Lleida are plagued by the infamous Lleida fog. January is better and February is much better. Just as cold and much dryer. December is for climbing in the sun.

Hmmm not in my experience. Sorry but thats just not the case.

Though i agree the fog around Tremp can be a problem.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 29, 2020, 09:10:24 pm
mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 29, 2020, 09:17:14 pm
mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: turnipturned on December 29, 2020, 09:46:12 pm
mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.

You chasing shade, now that is bullshit  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 29, 2020, 09:53:49 pm
mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.

You chasing shade, now that is bullshit  :lol:

Good point well made
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Andy F on December 30, 2020, 12:32:42 am
mmm.... my better half lived in Barcelona for 6 years, since then we have been in the area quite often... YMMV

I was there for 6 months this winter. Chasing shade.

You chasing shade, now that is bullshit  :lol:

Good point well made
There are salons for that nowadays
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on December 30, 2020, 07:45:27 am
Chris, Adam, Alex, they all say hi.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: batashakrakoom on January 01, 2021, 02:48:37 pm
That area of margalef can be a real swamp, its sat within the valley, burried amongst the trees, it can feel like a sauna sometimes over there compared to say espadelles which is high up and overlooks everything, so yeah, can probably cut him a bit of slack on this one.  He should have given up and come to try Bon Combat, reckon he'd piss it. 

I live in BCN, weather wise its been warm / wet / warm / wet, was good in october then again in late december but Ondra left already.

When he arrived here there were covid restrictions - but legally he was ok  (as per my understanding), though perhaps a 10 man film crew, non of which were wearing masks - which is the law here - wasn't necessary nor a great look..

That said, whilst he is taking some heat for that - after he left the rules then became very strict,  people here can't travel between comarcas, so even if you live an hour away from Margalef - you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on January 01, 2021, 03:18:14 pm
That area of margalef can be a real swamp, its sat within the valley, burried amongst the trees, it can feel like a sauna sometimes over there compared to say espadelles which is high up and overlooks everything, so yeah, can probably cut him a bit of slack on this one.  He should have given up and come to try Bon Combat, reckon he'd piss it. 

I live in BCN, weather wise its been warm / wet / warm / wet, was good in october then again in late december but Ondra left already.

When he arrived here there were covid restrictions - but legally he was ok  (as per my understanding), though perhaps a 10 man film crew, non of which were wearing masks - which is the law here - wasn't necessary nor a great look..

That said, whilst he is taking some heat for that - after he left the rules then became very strict,  people here can't travel between comarcas, so even if you live an hour away from Margalef - you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Thanks for adding local context.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 04, 2021, 11:00:30 am
https://www.grimper.com/news-pourquoi-adam-ondra-est-reellement-difficulte-perfecto-mundo-9b

My better half is not the only one thinking that Ondra was there hors saison.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on January 04, 2021, 02:02:40 pm
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tomtom on January 04, 2021, 02:29:07 pm
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

What happens if he does something important (XYZ project etc..) while he's not supposed to be there... Harder to publicize  your law breaking success (especially for a VW sponsored Olympian to be...)...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on January 04, 2021, 03:19:04 pm
"There are many who would pay dearly to get “screwed” like this in a 9b +…"

Google translate made me laugh with this quote at the end of the article  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on January 04, 2021, 03:35:00 pm
Travelling to Spain is not forbidden. Restrictions depend on the country you travel from (and the date you travelled). In Spain rules that apply for the Spanish (like travel restrictions between comarca's and regions) are applied in a very lenient way to foreigners. Which is not fair, but that's apperently the way it goes.

Which leaves aside the moral issue of travelling. A lot of people love to cast the first stone these days when Covid is involved.  :-\
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JohnM on January 04, 2021, 07:42:11 pm
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

Climbers dishing out moral advice has become a thing. Pro climbers preaching about climate change or capitalism. I don't give a shit what you think, you get paid to fly around the world to climb up bits of rock. Just get on with making some nice videos for me to watch while I am meant to working and trying to increase my own capital in between my own attempts to climb up much easier bits of rock. I don't care what you think about climate change.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: AndyR on January 04, 2021, 08:04:39 pm
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

Climbers dishing out moral advice has become a thing. Pro climbers preaching about climate change or capitalism. I don't give a shit what you think, you get paid to fly around the world to climb up bits of rock. Just get on with making some nice videos for me to watch while I am meant to working and trying to increase my own capital in between my own attempts to climb up much easier bits of rock. I don't care what you think about climate change.
I wholeheartedly agree - even on the very rare occasions that the opinion is well-considered, thoughtful and cogent, I'm still not interested...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 36chambers on January 04, 2021, 11:03:24 pm
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

I imagine Bosi's insta posts will slow down now he's been getting a bit of grief about his trip
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 05, 2021, 08:20:47 am
you can't go there now, some pros don't give a shit and have travelled here regardless including Megos who is seemingly trying to keep it hush hush, which hasn't gone unnoticed.

Was funny to see Bosi tag Megos in his insta pic and then fairly swiftly edit it to remove all mention (presumably at megos' request). All a llittle #carrotsforirony given the moralising nature of Megos' "new year" insta post.

Climbers dishing out moral advice has become a thing. Pro climbers preaching about climate change or capitalism. I don't give a shit what you think, you get paid to fly around the world to climb up bits of rock. Just get on with making some nice videos for me to watch while I am meant to working and trying to increase my own capital in between my own attempts to climb up much easier bits of rock. I don't care what you think about climate change.
I wholeheartedly agree - even on the very rare occasions that the opinion is well-considered, thoughtful and cogent, I'm still not interested...

It can be worse, they can also share life lessons...

But seriously, do not follow celebrities on social media. Problem solved.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on February 09, 2021, 09:35:45 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYCVSppGz1c

1 hour chat between Caldwell and Ondra
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: James Malloch on August 25, 2021, 12:22:45 pm
I like the videos on Adam’s Instagram story at the moment. Speed climbing an indoor 8a.

Something like 46s with clipping and 36s on top rope (though looks like he unclipped two draws on the way up).

So about 6x slower than the speed route at the olympics, but also 8a vs. 6b!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on August 25, 2021, 01:32:27 pm
I like the videos on Adam’s Instagram story at the moment. Speed climbing an indoor 8a.

Something like 46s with clipping and 36s on top rope (though looks like he unclipped two draws on the way up).

So about 6x slower than the speed route at the olympics, but also 8a vs. 6b 5+!

FTFY  :)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on August 25, 2021, 02:15:30 pm
Here's a thought on that theme.

One way of incorporating speed into the Olympic discipline, could be a fastest ascent of the lead route - after the on-sight attempt. Maybe with a practice session thrown in.

That would allow red point to be included in a more workable format, and provide an outcome more dependent on what we normally think of in terms of climbing skill.

Speed itself isn't irrelevant either - watching Ondra himself is a good indication of that, and it's relevance perhaps to "economy".

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on August 25, 2021, 02:26:27 pm
Here's a thought on that theme.

One way of incorporating speed into the Olympic discipline, could be a fastest ascent of the lead route - after the on-sight attempt. Maybe with a practice session thrown in.


They are going to incorporate by giving it its own medal in Paris, with a combined for lead and boulder which I’m sure suits most people, and respects the history of the speed comps and specialist competitors.

I guess speed is already important in the lead, as it’s the first tie breaker
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on November 10, 2021, 08:14:57 pm
After what's seemed like a bit of a quiet period post Olympics, balance has been restored:

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWG3br6jcrn/?utm_medium=copy_link
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: MischaHY on November 11, 2021, 07:07:46 am
Oooooooohhhh not only is it the big O on the rock, it's low quality hand-filmed phone footage  :wub:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 15, 2021, 06:51:53 pm
Very good interview with Ondra:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-5yuVuDFzU

Some interesting nuggets: anyone who take it seriously can climb the speed wall sub 7 seconds (not harder than climbing 8a route apparently), if it was not for the olympics Ondra would have stopped doing bouldering comps two years ago as the modern bouldering style is dangerous for the body, Yoshiyuki Ogata is the strongest climber physically, and Ondra is as impressed as everyone else by this guy: https://www.instagram.com/monscogram/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on November 15, 2021, 09:34:23 pm
That was great. Magnus midtbo was a really good interviewer, asked some good stuff.

Throw in the first ascent of a 9a and a few laps of 8B on the minute for good measure...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on November 16, 2021, 06:07:31 pm
One of the best insights into Ondra's thinking and attitude I've seen. He comes across really well. Say what you will about MM's general vids, this one was great.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 16, 2021, 08:07:56 pm
Can someone do a transcript?? I'd rather spend another lockdown reading LozT analysing a Dave Mac video on holding eggs than even accidentally click on a Magnus Clickbaitbo video ever again....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on November 16, 2021, 08:50:23 pm
Can someone do a transcript?? I'd rather spend another lockdown reading LozT analysing a Dave Mac video on holding eggs than even accidentally click on a Magnus Clickbaitbo video ever again....

I share your suspicions. I gave it a try because it had had the jwi imprimatur but watched it to the end, enjoyed it, and think you might too. It's a genial chat and MM gets Adam to open up a bit between climbing on some splendidly crappy local limestone.

He also definitively answers the question of how long it's acceptable to spend on a route (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31547.0.html)*. 

*two hours
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on November 17, 2021, 06:23:23 am
between climbing on some splendidly crappy local limestone.

It's hard to resist Ondra's sheer enthusiasm for climbing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on November 17, 2021, 07:57:00 am
Can someone do a transcript?? I'd rather spend another lockdown reading LozT analysing a Dave Mac video on holding eggs than even accidentally click on a Magnus Clickbaitbo video ever again....

I share your suspicions. I gave it a try because it had had the jwi imprimatur but watched it to the end, enjoyed it, and think you might too. It's a genial chat and MM gets Adam to open up a bit between climbing on some splendidly crappy local limestone.

Yep its a good and interesting interview, both Ondra and Mitbo come across well and appear to be enjoying themselves.   Never really got the hate for Mitbo, yes he does some 'wacky' stuff on his videos but that's how he earns a living.  On the more climbing related ones which I've watched the come across well, has a decent screen presence, is a good interviewer and can still cut it pretty well climbing wise (definitely doesn't embarrass himself climbing in Ondra's gym)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on November 17, 2021, 07:59:13 am
Thought that was brill, stuck it on whilst I was eating my tea having got back from the wall, thinking I'd just watch 20 mins or so but easily just watched it all. I have watched a few of Magnus' videos and this isn't like his normal ones at all.

mainly just echoing what has been said above. Would recommend watching, Fiend.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 17, 2021, 08:41:04 am
3 and a half 8B's on the minute  :o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on November 17, 2021, 09:16:33 am
3 and a half 8B's on the minute  :o

This bit got me thinking whether I could do this on something a couple of grades below my max at a crag I had wired. 🤔

I enjoyed it, as others have said I think it was good, Midtbø asks some good questions in quite a disarming fashion and Ondra also sees to be quite honest in his replies. Ondra’s passion for rock climbing is infectious!

Also the last bit is pure comedy, I look forward to seeing people doing this at the ‘cliff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 17, 2021, 09:42:53 am
3 and a half 8B's on the minute  :o

I would think that is pretty normal levels of short resistance for someone who can flash 9a, no?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on November 17, 2021, 09:59:42 am
Yes we have to assume that is the level, for those few, three? four? people. Maybe its more;

I can imagine Aiden/Buster/Pope/Bosi getting close to something like that on the school board. As silly as it sounds, bouldering 8B just isnt that hard anymore
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on November 17, 2021, 10:10:25 am
and 8A is approaching a rest.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on November 17, 2021, 10:15:34 am
Slightly off-topic but how many people have flashed/o/s-ed 9a?

Ondra, Megos, ? Or are they the only ones? Seems like there must be more?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 17, 2021, 10:23:52 am
Think it's just those two

The mention of comps and the Olympics was interesting anyway. As was Mitbo's view on Ondra still being the best climber in the world.

I do think that climbing is in a kind of unique place in that sense; the best in the world =/= best in comps and even the Olympics. Feels almost like a sideshow, especially compared to sports like tennis and weightlifting (where non Olympic and Olympic comps are essentially the only things that matter).

I guess cos climbing is a discipline/pastime/activity which is occasionally done as a sport. Whereas those things are purely sports.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 17, 2021, 11:12:30 am
I class Ondra as the best rock climber too but I don't really know why. He's probably the best sport climber, but I think i'd place 3 before him in boudering (1. Woods, 2. Nalle, 3. Webb, then Ondra, Cameroni, Raboutou, Albert etc?). That makes him well rounded, but less so than Dave Mac?  :worms:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 17, 2021, 11:13:32 am

I guess cos climbing is a discipline/pastime/activity which is occasionally done as a sport. Whereas those things are purely sports.

I lift weights as a pastime.

Yours pedantically.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on November 17, 2021, 11:14:45 am
I class Ondra as the best rock climber too but I don't really know why. He's probably the best sport climber, but I think i'd place 3 before him in boudering (1. Woods, 2. Nalle, 3. Webb, then Ondra, Cameroni, Raboutou, Albert etc?). That makes him well rounded, but less so than Dave Mac?  :worms:


hahahahahahahahaha
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 17, 2021, 11:15:44 am
but less so than Dave Mac?  :worms:

yeah what's he ever done on the Ben. In the middle of winter Scratching up some desperate pitch that's rarely in condition. Freezing his tits off.

(Nothing, because he's sensible).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 17, 2021, 11:27:18 am

I guess cos climbing is a discipline/pastime/activity which is occasionally done as a sport. Whereas those things are purely sports.

I lift weights as a pastime.

Yours pedantically.

Fair, as do I. I meant Olympic Weightlifting I.e the snatch and C&J combo but I also didn't specify so you are technically correct (the best kind of correct).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 17, 2021, 11:28:17 am
If it wasn't clear enough already, the Dave Mac example is used for comedic effect, to make a point that Ondra is best in one discipline and maybe 3rd or 4th best in another and whether that's enough to be 'the best climber in the world'.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 17, 2021, 11:29:59 am
I class Ondra as the best rock climber too but I don't really know why. He's probably the best sport climber, but I think i'd place 3 before him in boudering (1. Woods, 2. Nalle, 3. Webb, then Ondra, Cameroni, Raboutou, Albert etc?). That makes him well rounded, but less so than Dave Mac?  :worms:

Probably cos he's done 9c sport and 8C+ boulder I guess. And a whole host of really hard sport routes.

I'd say that Dave is the best trad climber specifically and that Nalle is the best Boulderer just cos of Burden of Dreams, as well as a whole host of 8C+s, and general insane waddage. And because I'm a boulderer he's my favourite; I worship at the shrine of Nalle.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on November 17, 2021, 11:31:19 am
Don’t forget smashing out the Dawn Wall in pretty casual fashion. Probably not a trad route as far as Fiend is concerned because you don’t have to place the widgets on each pitch, but still pretty tricky.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 17, 2021, 11:56:42 am
To be fair, I'd forgotten the Dawn Wall and it probably completes the puzzle for me.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on November 17, 2021, 12:20:45 pm
3 and a half 8B's on the minute  :o

This bit got me thinking whether I could do this on something a couple of grades below my max at a crag I had wired. 🤔

I've done similar at Trowbarrow. Not quite on the minute but when I was working on Iron Man I'd finish the session doing Vitruvian Man, Jazz Phenomena and Ned's Problem Sit back to back. Good fun, and I'm sure great fitness training.

Great video that, enjoyed it a lot.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on November 17, 2021, 01:12:40 pm
Ondra is the best climber in the world, hands down, surely!?

To his name;
Hardest sport RP
Hardest sport flash
Largest amount of hard sport ticks/FAs to his name.

Bouldered 8C+ which is only a grade off the top pace
Flashed 8B+(is this the equal hardest ever?)

Repeated hardest big wall in the world in quick fashion
Made first free ascents of a number of other hard multi-pitch/big walls (WoGu, Tough Enough, etc,)
Tried to flash El Cap, but to make it a proper challenge tried to do it in a day and chose Salathe Wall.
Onsighted Concepcion, did those E7s on the grit inbetween doing talks trying hard at the Tor.

Pretty good comp record - was he the first to win Boulder and Lead World Cup/Championships?

I dont think anyone else even gets close to him, personally.

Im also not sure Dave Mac is the best trad climber. He's gotta be up there for headpointing but Caff, Ste Mac, Pearson have all got a better onsighting/flashing record and have still headpointed some pretty hefty routes. Thats a UK-centric look at trad climbing too obviously.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 17, 2021, 01:26:07 pm
I suppose my thoughts re Dave Mac is just like, who else is ever going to do Echo Wall? I don't think any of those guys is doing a trad route MacLeod can't do, but I don't think any of them are doing that.

But I don't really know trad that well so I'll accept could well be talking guff.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on November 17, 2021, 02:06:25 pm
Yeah there is Echo Wall. Though arguably a chunk of the battle with that one is that you basically have to live in the Highlands to do it, as amongst the difficulty, boldness there is the issue that you need to shovel that snow patch above it off to help it dry quicker. I have heard talk of Caff wanting to check it out. Caff also repeated LongHope in quick order and downgraded it?

But EW sounds too bold for Steve, though Steve has quickly climbed some hard routes (Rhapsody, Choronzon, Olympiad, Lexicon, GreatNess Wall)

Dave Mac is obvs handy but I don't know if he is up there with the likes of Caff, Ste Mac and Pearson for doing hard things from the ground. Caff has onsighted bucket loads of E7s and some E8s and G-upped the Big Issue (E9!), Ste Mac has onsighted/flashed quite a few E8s (I don't see Dave Mac o/sing Nightmayer for example) Pearson g-upping Muy Caliente.

For me, headpointing sits somewhere between trad and sport. The real test of being a trad climber is reading a description, racking up, and setting off into the unknown, which I'd say isn't Dave Mac's strong point (maybe he under the radar o/s loads of E7 + 8s but I dont see why he wouldn't publicise this along with his H/Ps).

Just my 2p and obviously macloed is still a phenonemal trad climber.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on November 17, 2021, 03:02:55 pm
For me, headpointing sits somewhere between trad and sport. The real test of being a trad climber is reading a description, racking up, and setting off into the unknown

 :agree:  Onsighting trad and sport routes are such different experiences, possibly more so than the differences between redpointing and headpointing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 17, 2021, 03:03:48 pm
Slightly off-topic but how many people have flashed/o/s-ed 9a?

Ondra, Megos, ? Or are they the only ones? Seems like there must be more?

Only those two. Not that many who has onsighted or flashed 8c+ either. I can only think of Paxi Usoibaga, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Magnus Midtbø and Piotr Schab. Maybe someone else. Magnus and Piotr have only done one respectively afaik (even if they both done lots of 8cs onsight).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 17, 2021, 03:11:11 pm
and 8A is approaching a rest.

no, but I would think that anyone who can onsight 9a can run laps on a well-rehearsed medium length 8b without getting pumped. So almost any part of an 8b route is a shake out.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 17, 2021, 03:23:04 pm
and 8A is approaching a rest.

no, but I would think that anyone who can onsight 9a can run laps on a well-rehearsed medium length 8b without getting pumped. So almost any part of an 8b route is a shake out.

I think this is just a joke. From memory, it's a play on a Ben moon quote along the lines of "6a is easy and 5c is approaching a rest" (where the grades are british tech grades).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 17, 2021, 03:42:04 pm
Only those two. Not that many who has onsighted or flashed 8c+ either. I can only think of Paxi Usoibaga, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Magnus Midtbø and Piotr Schab. Maybe someone else. Magnus and Piotr have only done one respectively afaik (even if they both done lots of 8cs onsight).

I think it might be even more selective than that as it doesn't look like Piotr has logged any 8c+ onsights on 8a.nu (despite logging plenty of other stuff).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cowboyhat on November 17, 2021, 03:50:46 pm
IIRC Ben Moon said 6c was easy and 6b was approaching a rest. He was bouldering Font 8b at the time and english 6b is what, Font 7a+?

He was right.

As for adam and alex; flashing 9a. You'd have to be very comfortable in the Font 8b range for that and it checks out: Moving down the scale, if my max boulder was 7c+ I think i'd be comfortable lapping/ training on a 7b I had wired.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 17, 2021, 04:40:25 pm
Only those two. Not that many who has onsighted or flashed 8c+ either. I can only think of Paxi Usoibaga, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Magnus Midtbø and Piotr Schab. Maybe someone else. Magnus and Piotr have only done one respectively afaik (even if they both done lots of 8cs onsight).

I think it might be even more selective than that as it doesn't look like Piotr has logged any 8c+ onsights on 8a.nu (despite logging plenty of other stuff).

Is he taking only 8c for Mandanga? (I do not want to click on the website of Mr. Satan myself, so cannot check).

Klemen Becan is another obvious candidate having the chops for an 8c+ onsight, but I am not sure he has done one.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 17, 2021, 04:52:59 pm
From his logbook:

Quote
8c/+ my hardest onsight so far. Such a fight in the lower & middle section and then quite controlled everything till the chain. Amazing route.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 17, 2021, 05:48:01 pm
Strong posts Duncan Campbell.

Also can people please stick to capitalised Font 8B grades and lower case sport 8b grades, preferably F8b for that matter, it makes posts like cowboyhat's above much easier to parse.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 17, 2021, 06:06:27 pm
A pleasing visual shorthand that avoids the embarrassment of anyone having to use V grades.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on November 17, 2021, 07:58:17 pm
I suppose my thoughts re Dave Mac is just like, who else is ever going to do Echo Wall? I don't think any of those guys is doing a trad route MacLeod can't do, but I don't think any of them are doing that.

But I don't really know trad that well so I'll accept could well be talking guff.

I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.

I think briys often kid ourselves at how good we are compared to other countries. I don't know how we measure being the best at trad, but if we're talking about impressive feats without bolts being involved, I suspect honnold would want a mention.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Neil F on November 17, 2021, 09:47:38 pm

I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.


I’m sure Dave is the best headpointer in Scotland, and one of the most impressive all rounders in the UK, as well as one of the fittest. I thought his “all the 8s” day was truly inspirational.

But best trad climber in Scotland? You are joking aren’t you…?  Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails  :wall:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 17, 2021, 09:51:24 pm
Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails  :wall:

Spell it out then.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 17, 2021, 09:57:22 pm
He was definitely the best Fort William based climber at carefully choosing a world class climb that is near impossible to downgrade as it's location and the local weather make it pretty much unrepeatable  :2thumbsup:

Generally when people talk about "best trad climber" at the cutting edge they often take into account both headpointing especially new routes, and onsighting - as well as a variety of terrain and situations. It's hard to argue against DMaccy's combined total being pretty high even if he's not prolific in one of those aspects??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 17, 2021, 10:13:00 pm
Also absolutely the best climber in Lochaber at sticking boiled eggs up his arse in the name of ketosis  :yes:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on November 18, 2021, 07:10:51 am

I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.


I’m sure Dave is the best headpointer in Scotland, and one of the most impressive all rounders in the UK, as well as one of the fittest. I thought his “all the 8s” day was truly inspirational.

But best trad climber in Scotland? You are joking aren’t you…?  Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails  :wall:

Sorry Neil, I'm not massively up to date with Scottish climbing. I know Dave has onsighted and flashed the odd e7 and e8 maybe, alongside his head pointing. There's obviously lots I don't know about.

I assume you're agreeing with my overall point though, that he's not the best trad climber in the world!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on November 18, 2021, 07:45:50 am
Strong posts Duncan Campbell.

Also can people please stick to capitalised Font 8B grades and lower case sport 8b grades, preferably F8b for that matter, it makes posts like cowboyhat's above much easier to parse.

Mr Campbell to you  :spank: ;) :lol:

I agree with the capitalised letter for bouldering, lower case for routes. Ain't that hard is it!?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 18, 2021, 08:32:53 am

I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.

But best trad climber in Scotland? You are joking aren’t you…?  Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails  :wall:

Everyone knows the best trad climber in Scotland is Iain Small.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on November 18, 2021, 08:39:50 am

I'm not sure no repeats of echo wall makes him the best trad climber in the world, it probably just makes him the best trad climber in Scotland. Logistical difficulty doesn't equal climbing difficulty.

But best trad climber in Scotland? You are joking aren’t you…?  Or is it just that everyone seems to have forgotten what trad climbing actually entails  :wall:

Everyone knows the best trad climber in Scotland is Iain Small.

 :bow: :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 18, 2021, 08:54:02 am
I suppose it's all academic really. I just consider trad to be "no fixed gear, placed on lead" with the various exceptions that seem to be okay in the eyes of the cognoscenti (I.e no fixed gear except sometimes fixed gear, placed on lead except sometimes not) and Dave Mac seems to have done arguably the hardest trad line (an 8c where you go into the crux pumped and if you fall you die).

But also there's Tribe and Recovery Drink and I guess the Dawn Wall?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on November 18, 2021, 09:23:10 am
And - as pointed out above - onsighting/flashing, which is the most "trad" style of trad. (And also the best style of sport.) It's just not as fashionable as headpoint/redpoint nowadays.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 18, 2021, 09:26:43 am
Yeah that's too. E grades or H grades and all that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: highrepute on November 18, 2021, 10:15:13 am
I didn't come to the ondrawad thread to read about trad climbing. Can we keep that shit elsewhere please.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on November 18, 2021, 11:00:54 am
c'monnnnnnnnnn. The ondrawad thread already has trad climbing woven into it. Plus there is the classic Ondra quote;

"I want to climb everything, onsight, redpoint, overhangs, slabs, boulder, multipitch, cracks, bold vert trad, loose dusty cheese by the sea"

 :lol:

but yeah i get ya
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on November 18, 2021, 11:40:39 am
That was a great video, which I wouldn't have started without the endorsements further up the thread. I love Ondra, he really does fucking love climbing doesn't he.

His home area reminded me a bit of Avon and Cheddar, very much a local delicacy. I can't think of any other international rockstars that would be psyched for a session in Gollums Cave, but I bet Ondra would. Didn't Alex Honnold visit Cheddar and describe it as "disgusting"  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: colin8ll on November 18, 2021, 12:12:46 pm
I loved that video too. The bit that struck me was the contrasting mindsets between Magnus and Adam, with Magnus talking about being nervous about the possibility of him falling off the 5+, and Adam going on to say how this kind of thing doesn't bother him. Adam strikes me as being almost entirely intrinsically motivated, and surely this is one of his greatest strengths as it will give him a lot of resilience.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yossarian on November 18, 2021, 12:28:20 pm
That's what I thought. I binged a load of videos on Ondra's channel afterwards, and there's a Croatian road trip one where shortly before onsighting an 8c (he thought it was 8b+) he falls 2-3 times off a 7a. Most ego-driven climbers wouldn't dream of publicising that, whereas he seemed to find it hilarious.

Also, I liked the way he acknowledged his various weaknesses (e.g. cutting loose at full span, etc).

It was interesting in the training room episode that Ondra was quite impressed by MM campusing a move on that splatter board problem. MM is obviously very strong still, but has ended up down a path where he only ever unleashes it indoors on video.

I think when MM is nearing 2 million subscribers, we make a concerted effort to get him to make a celebratory video with Fiend.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on November 18, 2021, 01:56:21 pm
I think when MM is nearing 2 million subscribers, we make a concerted effort to get him to make a celebratory video with Fiend.

Just magining the thumbnail and clickbait title if this video  :lol: .
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on November 18, 2021, 02:24:06 pm
Didn't Alex Honnold visit Cheddar and describe it as "disgusting"  :lol:

Answering a question from someone called duncan... (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=post;quote=648849;topic=14977.2175;last_msg=648867)

"...my experience at Cheddar Gorge was one of the worst climbing days of my life. I warmed up on some short, sharp 7b+ in the rain. And then we left. It was heinous. But it made me appreciate why Brits don't really warm up - they never know when it's going to start raining so they just hop straight on their project".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy moles on November 18, 2021, 06:42:30 pm
I liked Ondra's top rope truth bomb:

"I like climbing, I don't like clipping."

Take heed, world.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 19, 2021, 10:33:52 pm
I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on November 19, 2021, 10:38:51 pm
I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).

I couldn't quite bring myself to post on this but you're not wrong, peak UKC  :wall:.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 19, 2021, 10:43:22 pm
I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).

I couldn't quite bring myself to post on this [...]

You Sir are a noble man.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on November 20, 2021, 08:08:19 am
I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on November 20, 2021, 09:27:29 am
Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.

Christ that’s me  :look: . Pretty sure when I was 5’10” with a medium positive ape index that was considered the perfect height… it felt a lot more like it!

I think the grass is always greener with height- no climber (seemingly even the best) is going to say “I am the perfect height” in the same way it’s hard to say “that person may be lighter than me and have smaller fingers but it’s their skill, technique and understanding of rock climbing that’s the real reason they climb grades harder”  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ali k on November 20, 2021, 10:05:59 am
I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.
I’m always impressed at your vocabulary Moose - had to look this one up.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 20, 2021, 10:07:21 am
I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.

That's pretty much Magnus they are describing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on November 20, 2021, 10:29:40 am
I'm surprised that there hasn't been more of a shit-show of vituperative, unwinnable arguments about Ondra and Magnus' agreement that the perfect height for a climber is 170cm (5'7"ish) but with a big positive ape index.

Naturally my ears pricked at this, but I don't think that's quite what they were saying? I can understand why being a little shorter than average is advantageous for hard stuff, but they implied that one's ape index shouldn't be too big. Ondra said he was lucky his wasn't bigger. I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy moles on November 20, 2021, 11:45:22 am
I know I should be sneering less, but if you have absolutely nothing better to do, go to ukclimbing or reddit for hilarious discussions if Ondra is a safe belayer or not (following the recent video).

I couldn't quite bring myself to post on this but you're not wrong, peak UKC  :wall:.

Harrowing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: RobK on November 20, 2021, 12:00:47 pm
I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?

Maybe less to do with the extra mass and more that shorter levers are stronger?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on November 20, 2021, 02:50:38 pm
I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?

Maybe less to do with the extra mass and more that shorter levers are stronger?

As the owner of a very long pair of arms, I can attest to this. Long levers are often a massive hindrance, contrary to popular belief (although to be fair, they do help on some things so it's swings and roundabouts to a certain extent).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on November 20, 2021, 03:22:56 pm
I suppose the theory is that there's only so much reach one needs and adding even a little extra arm mass beyond this is a disadvantage?

Maybe less to do with the extra mass and more that shorter levers are stronger?

As the owner of a very long pair of arms, I can attest to this. Long levers are often a massive hindrance, contrary to popular belief (although to be fair, they do help on some things so it's swings and roundabouts to a certain extent).

Not wanting to stifle discussions (why being tall is not an advantage for climbing is a favourite topic of mine  :whistle:) but discussions on body type for climbing might be better on a separate thread?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: colin8ll on November 20, 2021, 06:28:16 pm
I agree that this is an interesting dicussion that deserves its own thread.

I think the ideal body dimensions will really matter in the comp scene where setters have to set for an imaginary climber who will necessarily have specific dimensions. It's easy to imagine that some comp problems will simply be impossible for those at an extreme height-wise. It's probably less important in the world of real rock where there's enough routes to go at that people should be able to pick one where the crux plays to their strengths. The taller the better for a route like es pontas perhaps, whilst 5ft 2 seemed to work well for Lynn Hill on the Nose.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mullett24k on December 21, 2021, 05:34:19 pm
Now begins the age of baby Ondra: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXwKMQkMQSW/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 21, 2021, 06:00:46 pm
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 21, 2021, 07:18:05 pm
 :agree: :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2021, 10:03:55 pm
Baby Ondra vs Baby Honnold climb off.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on December 25, 2021, 06:24:54 pm
Baby Ondra vs Baby Honnold climb off.

Potentially a new challenger on the horizon soon, maybe the Kwisatz Haderach https://www.instagram.com/p/CX5mhdvvUeo/?utm_medium=copy_link
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on December 25, 2021, 06:51:23 pm
And the Lisan al-Gaib shall walk upon you, and he will know you ways as if born to them...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on December 25, 2021, 07:26:38 pm
Neeeeeeeerds  :)

(I'm reading it at the moment. Blessed is the maker etc)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: finbarrr on December 26, 2021, 07:38:54 am
Baby Ondra vs Baby Honnold climb off.

Potentially a new challenger on the horizon soon, maybe the Kwisatz Haderach https://www.instagram.com/p/CX5mhdvvUeo/?utm_medium=copy_link

Don’t forget about Shau-Ned-baby..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on December 26, 2021, 08:35:51 am
Baby David / Mina too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wood FT on December 26, 2021, 10:16:40 am
There’s only one way to settle this. Remus… get the spreadsheet.



Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on December 26, 2021, 12:12:15 pm
There’s only one way to settle this. Remus… get the spreadsheet.

Pre-emptive entries have already been made on the list.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 27, 2021, 04:30:42 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: MischaHY on December 27, 2021, 07:10:30 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

I immediately thought about your predictions when I saw his post!  :lol: Sounds like these are all actually just warm ups for the main events on the 'upper tier'?!?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: duncan on December 27, 2021, 08:33:17 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

Thank goodness for that. I thought I’d stumbled into OK! magazine for a moment.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 28, 2021, 09:56:42 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

Thank goodness for that. I thought I’d stumbled into OK! magazine for a moment.
Very good  :lol: From both you and Andy...

Route looks pretty cool for Raven Tor too.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 28, 2021, 11:11:44 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

I like that he confirmed our consensus rule-of-thumb that a boulder problem to a piss-easy top out should be graded one-and-a half grade harder than the boulder problem as a route. 7B+ boulder > hiking = 8a route, 8C+ boulder > hiking = 9b route, etc.

(And for the children of athletes, they revert to the mean ability unless you fix desirable genetic traits [what even are the genetic traits determining climbing ability?] through linebreeding. Even so, success is not guaranteed)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 28, 2021, 11:58:55 am
Cue more heinous 9b eliminates on strictly-locals-only crags around Brno.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CX9H55-hS7M/

I like that he confirmed our consensus rule-of-thumb that a boulder problem to a piss-easy top out should be graded one-and-a half grade harder than the boulder problem as a route. 7B+ boulder > hiking = 8a route, 8C+ boulder > hiking = 9b route, etc.

(And for the children of athletes, they revert to the mean ability unless you fix desirable genetic traits [what even are the genetic traits determining climbing ability?] through linebreeding. Even so, success is not guaranteed)

Silence is harder than Burden of Dreams? I'm not doubting that, I'm just curious as this is what the grade conversion rule of thumb implies. BoD into an 8b would get a mere 9b+!

From my armchair I do speculate that sport climbing has a higher ceiling than bouldering, at least if we're talking about pure boulders with <10 moves.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on December 28, 2021, 12:18:59 pm
I think he means the equation stands where it's a hard boulder problem into an easy route finish, whereas Silence has an 8C boulder, followed by an 8B boulder, then a 7C+ boulder. And you've already done an 8b route to get there.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: moose on December 28, 2021, 01:14:39 pm
There's some classic comments on 8a.nu - people saying Ondra's grading is wrong, Ondra himself explaining his grade maths,  and people still not having it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on December 28, 2021, 01:51:33 pm
There are idiots on 8a? Well I never!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 28, 2021, 01:52:32 pm
There are idiots on 8a? Well I never!
:o
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on December 29, 2021, 06:16:49 pm
In between swatting critics on 8a.nu looks like he nipped in for a quick repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi's Lonely Mountain, suggesting hard 9b. Psyched that we're back to the good old days of Ondra demolishing the hardest routes in the world in record time.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on December 29, 2021, 06:40:56 pm
I know right, is that now two 9bs and a 9a+ in a couple of weeks?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on December 29, 2021, 06:49:52 pm
26th October, Molekuly 9a+ FA
9th Nov, Erebor 9b
18th Dec, Kout Pikle 9a+ FA
23rd December, Taurus 9b FA
28th December, Lonely Mountain 9b

Looks like he's picking up pace. Won't be long until we're on 9b a day.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2021, 06:57:45 pm
Imminent dad terror. About time he pulled his finger out TBH.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on December 29, 2021, 07:02:31 pm
In between swatting critics on 8a.nu looks like he nipped in for a quick repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi's Lonely Mountain, suggesting hard 9b. Psyched that we're back to the good old days of Ondra demolishing the hardest routes in the world in record time.

Absolutely, have missed this while he's been messing around with speed climbing and parkour bouldering
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Andy F on December 29, 2021, 10:34:30 pm
Imminent dad terror. About time he pulled his finger out TBH.
Nothing, but nothing pushes the grade more than impending fatherhood
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 30, 2021, 08:17:30 am
Imminent dad terror. About time he pulled his finger out TBH.
Nothing, but nothing pushes the grade more than impending fatherhood

Pushed it down in my case  :wall: :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on December 30, 2021, 09:13:01 am
Me too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on December 31, 2021, 04:19:40 am
Worth it for the comedic value at the belay:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsWNzOKL6-Y&t=9s
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 11, 2022, 07:21:24 am
Fun little vid of Ondra onsighting a dusty old school 8b with no chalk on it https://www.facebook.com/100044208710458/posts/494822495334703/?app=fbl

Sounds like trying to onsight anything in the peak!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on January 11, 2022, 10:49:32 am
Except the alloy crab on the one bolt lower off is not full seized.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Aussiegav on January 11, 2022, 01:55:05 pm
Enjoying AOA films of recents months. Certainly post Olympics and & since that docu series of Perfecto Mundo, there’s been a more chilled and at times more personable touch to them.
Still the GOAT of climbing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on January 11, 2022, 02:07:48 pm
Worth it for the comedic value at the belay:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsWNzOKL6-Y&t=9s

 :lol: I liked that. Stop Ondra from sending your projects by using old screwgates at the anchor...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 12, 2022, 10:24:04 am
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: User deactivated on January 12, 2022, 10:44:29 am
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.

Which ascent are we calling bull shit on?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 12, 2022, 10:53:02 am
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.

Which ascent are we calling bull shit on?

Am i missing someone. Bosi and Megos?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on January 12, 2022, 10:54:20 am
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=C_-2CEfzFPk
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 12, 2022, 10:56:31 am
Ahh Jacob! Too much sun has gone to my head.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nibile on January 12, 2022, 11:22:04 am
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.
Surely in his car there was a guy named Chris. I wonder if he said something.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 12, 2022, 11:26:15 am
3rd ascent of King Capella incoming soon. Longest neck in climbing just drove past.
Surely in his car there was a guy named Chris. I wonder if he said something.

He said hi from Ceuse 🤣
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 12, 2022, 02:34:03 pm
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: James Malloch on January 12, 2022, 03:12:24 pm
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪

Love this live action  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on January 12, 2022, 03:23:39 pm
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪

Love this live action  :popcorn:

Yep... Definitely interested... Keep em coming Adam  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 12, 2022, 03:41:23 pm
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪

Love this live action  :popcorn:

Any chance of a live stream from the crag tomorrow? News as it's happening!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 12, 2022, 03:48:09 pm
If anyones interested. Nearly did it first rp. Poor second go. Almost split but probably go down tomorrow. 💪

Love this live action  :popcorn:

Any chance of a live stream from the crag tomorrow? News as it's happening!

Sadly ill be climbing tomorrow. Not at Capella sector!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: edshakey on January 12, 2022, 07:28:11 pm
Pretty outrageous you'd prioritise your own climbing over the requests of ukb :furious:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 12, 2022, 07:48:38 pm
Pretty outrageous you'd prioritise your own climbing over the requests of ukb :furious:

100% awful service

I imagine this means Ondra will confirm the downgrade. I doubt Bosi will mind, I bet he's buzzing to have most of the best climbers in the world come to try his route, and it's not like they're saying it's soft 8c or something.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Aussiegav on January 12, 2022, 10:04:42 pm
Wait for the obscure knee bar that brings it down two grades.  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 12, 2022, 11:25:21 pm
Wait for the obscure knee bar that brings it down two grades.  :lol:

Enter Dave Graham stage left.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 13, 2022, 02:24:23 pm
Just heard a scream from Capella sector. Dont think 3rd rp went so well.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 19, 2022, 02:32:52 pm
Hes back at Capella today. Extended his little trip.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 19, 2022, 04:51:58 pm
He knows his time is limited with the arrival of mini-Ondra  :coffee:  :alky:  :lol:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 19, 2022, 07:29:40 pm
No send today but he did furia de jabali. Not sure thats still 9b.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 19, 2022, 07:32:03 pm
Interesting updates! Cheers Adam. Maybe King Capella will hold its grade after all.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 19, 2022, 10:54:08 pm
Strong reportage, cheers Adam.

On the grade of Furia, Will said 9b, Jakob said 9a+ and Megos said the easiest of Kong capella and la capella. I can imagine it settling at 9a+.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 20, 2022, 08:24:50 am
Hes gone now so KC has put up a good fight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 20, 2022, 09:51:24 am
As in gone home?

This is great, the sort of thing you don't normally get to hear about with anyone really but especially pro climbers; other than Ondra's own series of videos when he was trying Perfecto Mundo.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 20, 2022, 09:52:13 am
As in gone home?


Yeah gone home….
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on January 20, 2022, 10:36:33 am
Does this possibly make Jakob the climber of the moment with ascents of Perfecto Mundo, King Capella and the Olympic lead wall  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: PlainCroi$$ant on January 20, 2022, 11:34:58 am
Jakob climbed Perfecto Mundo almost two years ago I think?

But he does seem to be the form climber right now with Erebor etc going down quickly too!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: AJM on January 21, 2022, 10:41:05 am
Strong reportage, cheers Adam.

On the grade of Furia, Will said 9b, Jakob said 9a+ and Megos said the easiest of Kong capella and la capella. I can imagine it settling at 9a+.

UKC is quoting Ondra saying low end 9a+ on 8a.nu, maybe a little harder but not 9b if you're short.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/la-capella/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/furia-de-jabali?utm_content=link1&utm_campaign=news_id_0&utm_medium=news_post&utm_source=ukclimbing
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 23, 2022, 09:07:18 pm
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 23, 2022, 09:19:12 pm
Also disagrees with Sharma saying on 8a.nu golpe de estado is 9b+.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on January 23, 2022, 09:27:00 pm
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link

 :-\

Ondra: 'In the last two weeks between visiting my sponsors, I got to spend 5 climbing days in Siurana 🇪🇦 The main goal King Capella 9b threw me down numerous times in the crux move, but on my last day I got climb La Furia de Jabali, short explosive and fingery route first ascended by @will_bosi last year ✌️

This one went down very quickly, I had previously checked the moves once, then on the last day after two unsuccessful tries in King Capella, I rechecked the crux move again and did it on my second serious try 👌 The main crux is with the same beta as @will_bosi (00:28 - 00:52), for traverse to the left I use completely different method, the double-gaston shoulder-about-to-explode beta 😅, which might be a little easier. I agree with @jakob.schubert and his proposal 9a+ (compared to original 9b).

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 24, 2022, 07:31:42 am
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link

 :-\

He's talking about Furia, he didn't do King Capella.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on January 24, 2022, 08:06:17 am
Didn’t Schubert and Megos both say 9b so he’s just going with the consensus?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on March 02, 2022, 08:12:58 pm
Just a new hard 9b https://www.instagram.com/tv/CanI9WVuini/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on March 03, 2022, 06:52:38 am
Some of his best ever noises.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on March 03, 2022, 09:36:37 am
I love this climber.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on March 03, 2022, 09:57:41 am
That finger scrape against the wall deadpointing up! What a beast.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 18, 2022, 09:45:31 am
Ondra has onsighted Solitary souls 8c+, in Arco. His ≈25th onsight of a route 8c+ or harder.

Full list on https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-alcanza-las-25-vias-de-8c-o-mas-a-vista/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on March 18, 2022, 12:36:58 pm
I hadn’t realised he’d onsighted Super Plandford. For people of a certain age (i.e. me) that’s probably the one on the list that stands out. I thought he’d said none of the old 8c had been onsighted.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on March 18, 2022, 01:36:43 pm
Ondra has onsighted Solitary souls 8c+, in Arco. His ≈25th onsight of a route 8c+ or harder.

Full list on https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-alcanza-las-25-vias-de-8c-o-mas-a-vista/

25th onsight of 8c+ or higher. Lmao
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 18, 2022, 03:02:09 pm
I hadn’t realised he’d onsighted Super Plandford. For people of a certain age (i.e. me) that’s probably the one on the list that stands out. I thought he’d said none of the old 8c had been onsighted.
Jibe Tribout's comment was
Quote from: Jean-Baptiste
Ondra est le meilleur grimpeur du monde car il a fait super plafond à-vue

I also think that there should perhaps be a few more routes on the list. Adam Ondra downgraded Gora Guta Gutarak to 8c but pretty much everyone who has done it after says 8c+, which is the grade it gets in the current guide book as well.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on March 18, 2022, 03:24:34 pm
I can see why Jibe would want that to be the case but is it true? Is SP first amongst equals on the list, I can’t imagine even Ondra chilling out halfway up scoping out the sequence, on the other hand it might be a bit more obvious what do from the ground than some of the others.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 18, 2022, 03:28:53 pm
IIRC Ondra thinks that Il Domani (9a) is his proudest onsight. There is no doubt it is 9a, fairly hard moves etc.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Doylo on March 18, 2022, 03:45:49 pm
I can see why Jibe would want that to be the case but is it true? Is SP first amongst equals on the list, I can’t imagine even Ondra chilling out halfway up scoping out the sequence, on the other hand it might be a bit more obvious what do from the ground than some of the others.
[/quotesk]
Slapping up those slippy slopers at the top looks droppable though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 26, 2022, 01:12:16 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJxEuMK7Fa0

when 8c+ is approaching a rest
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Nike Air on May 26, 2022, 01:28:32 pm
 :tumble:
He was in eco mode all the way! Stunning
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duma on May 26, 2022, 01:49:02 pm
jeez he really does piss that.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on May 26, 2022, 02:57:10 pm
Incredible bit of climbing that isn’t it. Doesn’t put a foot wrong having never been on the thing and having no beta!!  :jaw:

The undisputed master. Looking on good form. Will be ace if/when he goes and has a look at Bibliography and DNA.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on May 26, 2022, 03:09:02 pm
At a more pedestrian level, I have witnessed two of my long term projects being onsighted by Dave Graham and it was mind-blowing to see him find every single move and body position (bar a single move on the easier of the two) on the fly on something that I struggled so much with.

In the video above it is just hard to believe that the route really is 8c+. Isn't that supposed to be slightly tricky?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 26, 2022, 03:49:49 pm
I hadn’t realised he’d onsighted Super Plandford. For people of a certain age (i.e. me) that’s probably the one on the list that stands out. I thought he’d said none of the old 8c had been onsighted.

he did  (https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/volx-and-ceuse-updates-adam-ondra-alexander-megos-and-gabriele-moroni.html)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on May 26, 2022, 04:26:39 pm
Love that he wanted to carry on, and could have no problem. Incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy popp on May 26, 2022, 05:33:51 pm
Nothing better than an Ondra running commentary: "Here I was quite pumped, but it was OK."
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Rocksteady on June 28, 2022, 02:29:35 pm
Nothing better than an Ondra running commentary: "Here I was quite pumped, but it was OK."

I really enjoyed this line in particular too.
Also the way at the beginning the way he said "it just goes on and on and on, same difficulty" as if it was something very pedestrian and a little bit boring. And not an amazing looking 8c+!

What I always get from Ondra is how much he loves climbing, he loves it all from the rock and the scenery right down to the individual moves; it just shines out of him.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on June 29, 2022, 09:16:33 pm
Video of Wonderland 9b/+

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hKEyyi0F_c
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: edshakey on November 20, 2022, 06:42:51 pm
New 9b+ in Czechia

Quote from: Adam Ondra
Zvěřinec (Menagerie) 9b+ (hard) FA❗
Today I completed surely the second hardest route of my life (after Silence) ✌️ In 2011, I made my first ascent of Perlorodka (Pearloyster) after quite a few days of effort. Striking line in possibly the best rock that we have at our homecrag (Moravian Karst, Czechia 🇨🇿) Very improbable crux at solid 8B+ difficulty with reachy moves and desperate slapping of the completely rounded lip of the overhang. Back then, I gave it 9a+, but I think it deserves more 9b 🤔 Zveřinec climbs the same crux and has a different start that could be 9a+ on its own, with good rest in between.
After struggling the last two weeks with conditions, today it was just perfect 👌 0 degrees of Celsius, overcast, no wind, absolutely dry rock. With perfect warmup at my homewall, I could fight the cold temperature of the air and the advantage of the best friction!
 
His second hardest route, but not 9c. It's all getting pretty bunched around those grades!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 20, 2022, 07:00:12 pm
Good stuff, the local grot keeps giving.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 20, 2022, 10:20:54 pm
His second hardest route, but not 9c. It's all getting pretty bunched around those grades!

Darth grader agrees, hard 9b+ from the description.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: MischaHY on November 20, 2022, 10:29:17 pm
Surely if anyone is on point with the grades now it has to be the O-Dog. He even regrades his past self  :punk:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on November 28, 2022, 06:07:55 pm
9a onsight alert! Just up on his insta, Water World 9a, Osp, Slovenia
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 28, 2022, 06:16:42 pm
The original mega wad.

For those keeping count at home that's 4x 9a onsights, 1x 9a flash and 1x 9a+ flash.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 28, 2022, 06:55:35 pm
The original mega wad.

For those keeping count at home that's 4x 9a onsights, 1x 9a flash and 1x 9a+ flash.

And 8B+ flash!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on November 28, 2022, 07:01:21 pm
And 8B+ flash!

Twice!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on November 29, 2022, 09:33:19 am
Sometimes feels like people are catching up to him but when you look at it he is still a good bit ahead.

Repointing wise the gap has closed but Onsight and flash he is far ahead of everyone, and in bouldering you do wonder how much easier something like Terranova is to Alphane, Will seemed to suggest not much.

Add the likes of Dawn wall into it and Seb, Stefano, Megos and Jacob are some way behind.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 29, 2022, 09:45:53 am
Easy to forget he nipped up Dawn Wall on his holidays.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: wasbeen on November 29, 2022, 09:52:51 am
His mental game is an order of magnitude above anyone else. IMO his achievements are despite his physical build rather than because of it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 29, 2022, 10:03:19 am
Agreed, Ondra is clearly the best all round climber in the world and he even has the potential to be in the top 3 or 4 boulderers in the world if he wanted to be. Style wise, I think he'd do well on Alphane and Return of the Sleepwalker. He might do well on Soudain Seul too, but I get the impression he'd have next to no chance on Burden due to the raw strength/power requirements, whereas I think the likes of Aidan and Will can probably do it.

Will's comments on Terranova were interesting, but I wonder how much time he spent on it. Based on his ridiculous tick list from that trip it can't have been long! I take his comments with a pinch of salt and assume that if he'd prepared in the same way he did for Alphane (bouldering phase, replica training, his sole focus of the trip) it might have felt a bit different.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: wasbeen on November 29, 2022, 10:10:26 am
If I was to build the perfect climber:
Ondra's brain
Will's fingers
Aidan's core
Janja's dynamic gung-ho
Megos' hair
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 29, 2022, 10:25:17 am
Fiend's camo shorts
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 29, 2022, 10:33:08 am
Seb's accent.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: edshakey on November 29, 2022, 10:48:23 am
Nico's mandolin
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 29, 2022, 11:00:11 am
Dave Graham's crystals (and trickery!)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 29, 2022, 11:02:18 am
Si O'Conor's blogging skills
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 29, 2022, 11:33:24 am
Shark's persistence.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 29, 2022, 12:19:08 pm
Steve's tenacity.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: 36chambers on November 29, 2022, 12:37:27 pm
Dave Mac's diet...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: turnipturned on November 29, 2022, 01:02:59 pm
Ned's heel
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: mr chaz on November 29, 2022, 01:11:24 pm
Varians E Bike
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cofe on November 29, 2022, 01:23:16 pm
Shatner's bassoon.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 29, 2022, 01:26:20 pm
Bonjoy's nose for new rock
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 29, 2022, 01:31:24 pm
remus's encyclopaedic knowledge of everything done by everyone
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy_e on November 29, 2022, 01:32:40 pm
Shatner's bassoon.

Joss Ackland's spunky backpack
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: wasbeen on November 29, 2022, 02:51:18 pm
The beast would be born in the Franken-jura
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: IanP on November 29, 2022, 04:32:34 pm
Easy to forget he nipped up Dawn Wall on his holidays.
This ^

With the likes of Seb Bouin's ticklist this year you can lose sight of quite how good Ondra is.

He's now climbed more than 90 routes 8c and harder o/s, has anyone else even done 10?  Alongside all the hard redpoints around the world, top level bouldering,one of the best best comp climbers for 10 years+, big ,hard multipitch stuff, even managed to get some hard cracks and offwidths done in the states.

If he specialised maybe he could be pretty decent!



 
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 29, 2022, 04:42:01 pm
If specialised maybe he could be pretty decent!

It'd be fucking amazing if the first 9c+ in the world was some absolutely savage offwidth in the arse end of nowhere.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on November 29, 2022, 05:06:25 pm
or at least a horrowshow offwidth crux section.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 30, 2022, 04:47:43 pm
Looks like he's going to stop messing around onsighting 9a's and try something that's actually hard again!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeMYbWxg-Hw

The production quality on YouTube videos is pretty good these days.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on November 30, 2022, 05:24:13 pm
Looks like he's farting around with a half-decent hand-jam there, pffft.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy moles on December 01, 2022, 09:11:38 am
I want to see some AI generated art of UKB's perfect climber.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: MischaHY on December 01, 2022, 09:14:37 am
I swear Ondra is just the best for psyche. He's just got this way of describing the beauty of the rock and the difficulty of a line that is really inspiring.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: edshakey on January 10, 2023, 10:20:02 am
https://youtube.com/shorts/lPmbN1IqjEk

At the end of this little clip, he says he's coming to England in the next few days.

Anyone got any dry weather they've been saving for.. *ahem* a rainy day?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on January 10, 2023, 10:52:57 am
Obviously he's coming for the Burden of Dreams cellar replica.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 10, 2023, 01:12:29 pm
Obviously he's coming for the Burden of Dreams cellar replica.

I mean, apart from that why on earth would he bother now?!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on January 10, 2023, 10:17:41 pm
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on January 11, 2023, 12:21:49 am
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.

Fantastic there hasn’t been one of them for days. Hopefully he’ll have chance to to film a contrived head to head competition with Louis Parkinson, a “Pro vs Punter” film with Hannah Morris and “5 mistakes people make climbing slabs” vlog with some other climbing influencer. I’m assuming you were being sarcastic Cheque?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chrisbrooke on January 11, 2023, 09:47:42 am
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.

Fantastic there hasn’t been one of them for days. Hopefully he’ll have chance to to film a contrived head to head competition with Louis Parkinson, a “Pro vs Punter” film with Hannah Morris and “5 mistakes people make climbing slabs” vlog with some other climbing influencer. I’m assuming you were being sarcastic Cheque?

You could be hilariously right in your predictions. I wouldn't be surprised. That said, the world of internet climbing is crying out for Ondra in 'the cellar' so I reckon that's pretty likely.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on January 11, 2023, 10:03:44 am
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.

Fantastic there hasn’t been one of them for days. Hopefully he’ll have chance to to film a contrived head to head competition with Louis Parkinson, a “Pro vs Punter” film with Hannah Morris and “5 mistakes people make climbing slabs” vlog with some other climbing influencer. I’m assuming you were being sarcastic Cheque?

As correct and depressing as this is, the outdoor climbing programming (i'm trying my hardest not to use the word 'content') on YouTube is in a good place. Wedge, Mellow, Ondra, Stefano, Jakob, Raboutou, Macleod, Bouin, and even Emil Abrahamsson are all putting out good stuff regularly.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on January 11, 2023, 10:04:38 am
Obviously he's coming for the Burden of Dreams cellar replica.

I mean, apart from that why on earth would he bother now?!

Mag lime is dry too  ;D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chrisbrooke on January 11, 2023, 10:07:50 am
He’s going to make a video in TRandall’s cellar for the YouTube views.

Fantastic there hasn’t been one of them for days. Hopefully he’ll have chance to to film a contrived head to head competition with Louis Parkinson, a “Pro vs Punter” film with Hannah Morris and “5 mistakes people make climbing slabs” vlog with some other climbing influencer. I’m assuming you were being sarcastic Cheque?

As correct and depressing as this is, the outdoor climbing programming (i'm trying my hardest not to use the word 'content') on YouTube is in a good place. Wedge, Mellow, Ondra, Stefano, Jakob, Raboutou, Macleod, Bouin, and even Emil Abrahamsson are all putting out good stuff regularly.

It's an amazing time to be alive for climbing CONTENT  ;)  When I started climbing in 1997 I was lucky to find Masters Of Stone films on VHS etc.... Now there's a whole world of endless professional level content at your fingertips for free. Not to mention all the shitty beta vid channels that I'm so keen on.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 11, 2023, 11:13:35 am
Mag lime is dry too  ;D

Bordello is as good a reason as any to make the trip I reckon.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 11, 2023, 12:30:45 pm
The freely available climbing content on youtube is miles better than for any other niche sport, except possibly chess.

(And even Masters of Stone is available... and oh my god... I tried to re-watch Masters of Stone 3, and apart from the segment with JiBe on Super Plafond and The Specialists my eyes were bleeding)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Yossarian on January 11, 2023, 01:04:29 pm
I was the victim of an intense mancrush on Gerhard Horhager in the Buoux sequence in that film for a remarkably long time. It was a heady mix - the casual campus start to Chouca, the little white shorts, the shiny chestnut Timotei-ed hair tumbling out of the Alice band, the vaguely softcore pr0n introduction (“I am Gerhard from Austria! I am loving the climbing for 14 years now, and for sure I am very good at it!”) He seemed like the ultimate expression, the apotheosis even of the tanned Euro sport wad…
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chrisbrooke on January 11, 2023, 02:12:01 pm
I pretty much wore out my MoS 3VHS back in the 90s. Like you I found it on YouTube and, despite the nostalgia power, couldn't manage it at all!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on January 17, 2023, 01:50:07 pm
Currently under Ray’s Roof apparently. (https://www.instagram.com/p/CnhK1cxMmLP/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 17, 2023, 02:14:50 pm
In fairness he's brought the grit connies with him!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on January 17, 2023, 02:34:08 pm
They could have taken him somewhere sunny!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on January 17, 2023, 02:42:33 pm
France?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on January 17, 2023, 02:53:00 pm
Protect the brand! Crack is rad! Need to have content of star feigning interest in a short, 45 year old off width route otherwise consumers might remember that crack climbing is a niche activity that no one is really arsed about.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: T_B on January 17, 2023, 02:56:16 pm
Anywhere on the Eastern Edges. A quick lap of Definitive 5.12 followed by Voyager. Instead they take him to a green north-facing Offwidth.

I guess that’s what the YouTube algorithm demands.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 17, 2023, 03:21:49 pm
Protect the brand! Crack is rad! Need to have content of star feigning interest in a short, 45 year old off width route otherwise consumers might remember that crack climbing is a niche activity that no one is really arsed about.

No pleasing some people! Either you're a boring conformist just lapping classics or you're milking esoterica for clickbait.

It's fucking cool that one of the best climbers in the world is psyched enough to come to the UK and fall of some weird roof crack in shit conditions in the middle of nowhere (in climbing terms).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on January 17, 2023, 03:29:38 pm
The non cynical part of me agrees with you 100% and hopes you are right and I’m wrong! The thing cynics and non-cynics will agree on is that Ondra is always psyched for any type of climbing and that’s what we love about him so if he does have a go in the those conditions I’ll definitely watch the footage (if there is any!)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Danny on January 17, 2023, 03:31:39 pm
Looks very much in the spirit of British climbing to me. Ondra always comes across as genuine and psyched.

On the YouTube algos, it's true that you have to wade through a lot of tosh to find anything decent. But there's so much really good stuff out there I'm not complaining. Far better than mooching around an outdoor store trying to decide whether to drop £20 on a 365 or Between the Rain VHS (having seen Hard Grit and Stick It for the millionth time). Which reminds me...surely it's time for Stick It to make its way onto the internet? Loved that one beyond reason.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 17, 2023, 04:48:52 pm
Ondra is always psyched for any type of climbing
except speed climbing.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: i_a_coops on January 17, 2023, 05:25:28 pm
consumers might remember that crack climbing is a niche activity that no one is really arsed about.

Think that's a bit of a UK-centric view - if you sampled a hundred climbers in e.g. Squamish or Yosemite I think you might find quite a few who would consider 'face climbing' a niche activity that they're not really interested in ;)

I'm hoping he gets to hoover up some some grit LGPs though, would be cool to have some super hard Ondra-certified gritstone weirdness to aspire to  :bounce:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamieG on January 17, 2023, 08:48:15 pm
I for one am quite looking forward to seeing Ondra climbing in the wide boyz cellar. I reckon it will be pretty funny. He’ll definitely give it beans and is always psyched.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on January 18, 2023, 06:57:08 pm
Little did everyone who was slagging him off for going to Baldstones know that he’d already been to Raven Tor and climbed 8B as his warmup. (https://www.instagram.com/p/CnkQyiojyZ7/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 18, 2023, 07:51:28 pm
One word. Legend.

I’m looking forward to seeing the stuff that comes out of this trip. Will be ace seeing him climb all those old schoolroom classics.

Fun watching him crack climb in Randall’s pain dungeon.

Ondra really is a dude isn’t he?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 21, 2023, 04:38:44 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/CnpfVQQNSJN/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: teestub on January 21, 2023, 05:28:18 pm
I guess this is what a ‘work’ trip for some pro climbers looks like these days!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: James Malloch on January 21, 2023, 10:03:31 pm
I guess this is what a ‘work’ trip for some pro climbers looks like these days!

A session on Broomsgrove Wall too. I always knew that place was something special!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 22, 2023, 03:18:41 pm
Goodness sake they've even had him doing chossy 80s limestone routes at Stoney!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: leonjoyce88 on January 22, 2023, 05:50:24 pm
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 22, 2023, 06:15:42 pm
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Our lord and saviour strikes again.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Hoseyb on January 22, 2023, 08:04:57 pm
I wonder if they'll visit any of the lgp's like Wizards...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SamT on January 22, 2023, 10:35:54 pm

 :bow:

So lucky with the weather too..
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 23, 2023, 07:17:11 am
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 23, 2023, 07:34:16 am
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?

I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on January 23, 2023, 08:08:59 am
He's flashed Megatron at Minus 10 but didnt double it for the Turbo tick. Flashed Little Plum too. Good enough for the wads it would seem!!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on January 23, 2023, 10:13:20 am
Goodness sake they've even had him doing chossy 80s limestone routes at Stoney!

People act like Ondra has no idea about British climbing and is being shoved around by nefarious people/ algorithms (comments on TRandall’s Instagram suggest there are some who think he’d never climbed a crack before this trip  :lol: ) but it’s long documented that he’s a “student of the game” with an almost Remus-like interest in the history of hard climbing. He’ll have known about Stoney from Moffatt’s autobiography and have been interested to check it out I imagine.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 23, 2023, 12:03:27 pm
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?

I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.

Paul Robinson maybe?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 23, 2023, 12:31:33 pm
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?

I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.

Paul Robinson maybe?

He was close on the ace but dropped the last move https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/01/paul_robinson_on_peak_gritstone-59799
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chriss on January 23, 2023, 12:56:02 pm
He flashed The Ace today and did Careless Torque 4/5th go absolutely amazing to watch

Wonderful stuff. First 8B flash on grit?

I had a look through the climbing-history.org database and there's no others I can find.

Paul Robinson maybe?

Nah he's only just finished on Neighbours...... I'll get me coat.....

Has Magnus Mibot done anything, thought I saw him in an insta tag?

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SamT on January 23, 2023, 08:33:25 pm
 I definitely picked up a hint somewhere that it was a bit of a history sightseeing type trip for ondra. Hence stoney. Hence looking at Hubble etc.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 15, 2023, 01:33:05 pm
Disgustingly hard limestone link ups.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUIE_ht27s8
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jakaitch on February 15, 2023, 11:01:04 pm
Interesting that he reckons it's significantly harder than the other 9b+s he's climbed, but is still 9b+
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Liamhutch89 on February 16, 2023, 09:37:01 am
Interesting that he reckons it's significantly harder than the other 9b+s he's climbed, but is still 9b+

Potential grade compression due to Silence actually being 9c+? It seemed like Excalibur was going to be 9c, but how could Stefano have given it that grade after recently trying Silence?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jakaitch on February 16, 2023, 09:54:33 am
Yeah, that would make sense!
Grades aside - crazy moves, Ondra grunts = good entertainment
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on February 16, 2023, 11:00:08 am
Interesting that he reckons it's significantly harder than the other 9b+s he's climbed, but is still 9b+

Potential grade compression due to Silence actually being 9c+? It seemed like Excalibur was going to be 9c, but how could Stefano have given it that grade after recently trying Silence?

I dunno, hasn’t he been trying it for way longer? Plus the almighty Ondrawad has said he’ll never climb it!  :worms:

Really want to see Ondra go and try DNA and Bibliography. Be interesting to see his thoughts on them, especially DNA.

That new thing does look tricky! I put it into Darth Grader and they both agree - hard 9b+. That’s assuming it is a good rest, which Ondra alludes to.

Also it looks quite long and quite good; I thought it was going to be another Vasil Vasil scene.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 16, 2023, 11:16:39 am
Also it looks quite long and quite good; I thought it was going to be another Vasil Vasil scene.

Let's not get too ahead of ourselves here :lol: there are 5 lines on the topo trying to describe where it goes! It does look like cool climbing but it's not exactly an amazing line.

(https://climbing-history.org/file/1f2a7e3f-151a-f774-a06c-7b41d7db3b5f/Screenshot_2023_02_16_111329.jpg)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on February 16, 2023, 11:33:44 am
Haha true… not a king line, but not as scrappy as Vasil or Brandenburg gate!

But maybe even quite good is stretching it a little!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: yetix on February 16, 2023, 08:09:09 pm
Probs been discussed before, but has ondra repeated many 9b+s other than his own? Just curious as my routes knowledge is sparce! (I checked his website and it seemed that they're all FAs). And my partner asked me the other day and I didn't know the answer.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on February 16, 2023, 09:20:43 pm
I don't think so. He came close on Perfecto Mundo a couple of years ago but no cigar. That's the only one he's seriously tried AFAIK. Recently rewatched the Ondra videos of him trying it which were a good insight into his process
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on February 16, 2023, 11:06:37 pm
Probs been discussed before, but has ondra repeated many 9b+s other than his own? Just curious as my routes knowledge is sparce! (I checked his website and it seemed that they're all FAs). And my partner asked me the other day and I didn't know the answer.

No, but his 9b+s have received several repeats, most notably change.

https://climbing-history.org/climber/467/adam-ondra
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on February 17, 2023, 07:50:57 am
Probably more a factor of scarcity than anything else. There weren't any before he came along! If Sharma had managed La Dura Dura earlier then Ondra's ascent would have been a repeat, for instance.

It wouldn't surprise me if he's saving trying some established ones for future flash attempts....

He's also repeated plenty of 9bs.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on February 17, 2023, 12:34:11 pm
There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: yetix on February 17, 2023, 12:41:55 pm
Thanks for clarification! I just didn't know to be honest. Appreciate the info
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: MischaHY on February 17, 2023, 03:49:08 pm
There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route

I think it's also worth considering personal style this close to the cutting edge. Some good words on this recently from Aidan Roberts on his podcast where he's ruminating about how pro climbers operating at the top end are almost always very specialized. One thing Ondra did when he did the massive series on perfecto mundo is break the unwritten rule of pro climbers only talking about stuff that they've been successful on. That attitude coupled with a good ability to identify and concentrate on style appropriate projects is something I've noticed from a lot of pro climbers. It's actually really easy to watch them punt on something relatively straightforward as long as it is far enough removed from their current specialisation.

Ondra and colleagues are currently leading the charge on the 9b+/9c grades which means that each one will be very specialised in the style of the first ascentionist. It'll take some time for enough people to push the boundary in this level for someone with a similar style to Ondra to come along and put up 1-2 routes that suit him. If I had to put money on Ondra repeating a route from another climber right now it would be one of the lines from Seb Bouin because the long endurance style seems to be something they share although Seb is noticeably more comfortable in burly terrain. There's enough crossover there that there's good potential for Ondra.

I get the impression Ondra primarily tries other routes when he wants to benchmark himself and his FA's against other routes of a similar difficulty.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ru on February 17, 2023, 06:33:06 pm
If you look at the list of 9b+s that aren't Ondra FAs, then remove the ones done in the last 10 months or so there's only Perfecto Mundo (which he's tried), Bibliographie and one of Seb Bouin's left and the latter two were both done in the latter half of 2020 when he would have been focussed on the Olympics.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on February 17, 2023, 07:32:54 pm
There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route

I think it's also worth considering personal style this close to the cutting edge. Some good words on this recently from Aidan Roberts on his podcast where he's ruminating about how pro climbers operating at the top end are almost always very specialized. One thing Ondra did when he did the massive series on perfecto mundo is break the unwritten rule of pro climbers only talking about stuff that they've been successful on. That attitude coupled with a good ability to identify and concentrate on style appropriate projects is something I've noticed from a lot of pro climbers. It's actually really easy to watch them punt on something relatively straightforward as long as it is far enough removed from their current specialisation.

Ondra and colleagues are currently leading the charge on the 9b+/9c grades which means that each one will be very specialised in the style of the first ascentionist. It'll take some time for enough people to push the boundary in this level for someone with a similar style to Ondra to come along and put up 1-2 routes that suit him. If I had to put money on Ondra repeating a route from another climber right now it would be one of the lines from Seb Bouin because the long endurance style seems to be something they share although Seb is noticeably more comfortable in burly terrain. There's enough crossover there that there's good potential for Ondra.

I get the impression Ondra primarily tries other routes when he wants to benchmark himself and his FA's against other routes of a similar difficulty.

This new one looks pretty different in style to silence though doesn't it?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: MischaHY on February 17, 2023, 07:46:15 pm
There must also be an element of being less motivated for cutting edge stuff when it's a repeat rather than a new route

I think it's also worth considering personal style this close to the cutting edge. Some good words on this recently from Aidan Roberts on his podcast where he's ruminating about how pro climbers operating at the top end are almost always very specialized. One thing Ondra did when he did the massive series on perfecto mundo is break the unwritten rule of pro climbers only talking about stuff that they've been successful on. That attitude coupled with a good ability to identify and concentrate on style appropriate projects is something I've noticed from a lot of pro climbers. It's actually really easy to watch them punt on something relatively straightforward as long as it is far enough removed from their current specialisation.

Ondra and colleagues are currently leading the charge on the 9b+/9c grades which means that each one will be very specialised in the style of the first ascentionist. It'll take some time for enough people to push the boundary in this level for someone with a similar style to Ondra to come along and put up 1-2 routes that suit him. If I had to put money on Ondra repeating a route from another climber right now it would be one of the lines from Seb Bouin because the long endurance style seems to be something they share although Seb is noticeably more comfortable in burly terrain. There's enough crossover there that there's good potential for Ondra.

I get the impression Ondra primarily tries other routes when he wants to benchmark himself and his FA's against other routes of a similar difficulty.

This new one looks pretty different in style to silence though doesn't it?

Well yes but that doesn't rule it out from being his style :-)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on February 17, 2023, 10:11:23 pm
But if you've done cutting edge routes in many different styles (crimpy, short, long, upside down crack nonsense), then doesn't that mean you don't really have a style and you're good at all if it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Aussiegav on February 17, 2023, 11:09:20 pm
I don't think so. He came close on Perfecto Mundo a couple of years ago but no cigar. That's the only one he's seriously tried AFAIK. Recently rewatched the Ondra videos of him trying it which were a good insight into his process

I wonder if the extra crew & pressures of getting this route done for the film had an influence on the outcome? His media content  has changed since then. More personal and relaxed imo.
I wonder if he’ll go back and try it again with less people & without the circus??
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on February 17, 2023, 11:30:12 pm
Interesting to speculate, my take is that he got shafted by the connies. dont think hes bothered by the film crew, part of being a pro. i reckon he'll be back at some point but project big may be his priority at the mo
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on March 06, 2023, 02:38:14 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xe8PeQgbvEs
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: MischaHY on March 06, 2023, 03:20:16 pm
The most impressive thing about Ondra is how he takes every detail to the next level. For example, that's probably the first ascent of Fat Lip where the climber switches their left shoe mid-route. True dedication to the craft  :whistle:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: warmonke on March 06, 2023, 04:23:45 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xe8PeQgbvEs
Proper wholesome seeing how hyped Adam gets when he does stuff - you'd think he'd be used to it now being the "best climber in the world", nice to see he still genuinely loves it
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 06, 2023, 09:28:41 pm
 :agree: , that is why he is usually so inspiring. "The best climber is the one having the most fun (whilst also being the best)"

Good video, nice tribute to Ben and Jerry, I like the interview on Windy Ledge!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 20, 2023, 02:40:51 pm
Ondra really does not like to clip draws very much

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sx6LOHo3AM

Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on March 20, 2023, 02:43:22 pm
Lol he's such a savage
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on March 20, 2023, 04:29:35 pm
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.

That is interesting, I heard it as him saying it was harder than Cabane au Canada and TCT but similar difficulty to Il Domani. From my arm chair punter position that seems about right.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: csl on March 20, 2023, 04:34:18 pm
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.

That is interesting, I heard it as him saying it was harder than Cabane au Canada and TCT but similar difficulty to Il Domani. From my arm chair punter position that seems about right.

At 8:06 he says "...Il Domani that I onsighted back in 2014, so I had to wait 8 years before I finally climbed a 9a onsight again"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on March 20, 2023, 04:47:47 pm
Also: Ondra does not think that he has done more than two 9a onsight.

That is interesting, I heard it as him saying it was harder than Cabane au Canada and TCT but similar difficulty to Il Domani. From my arm chair punter position that seems about right.

At 8:06 he says "...Il Domani that I onsighted back in 2014, so I had to wait 8 years before I finally climbed a 9a onsight again"

I think it's a bit ambiguous as he also onsighted TCT in 2014, so you could either read it as "8 years since I climbed Il Domani" or "8 years since 2014".
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: yetix on March 20, 2023, 04:52:37 pm
But he also said it was his second since Il Domani? (not that I know anything about sport climbing or what TCT even is!) just I thought ondra seemed specific on this one from my armchair
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 20, 2023, 05:17:55 pm
TCT is a route in Gravere, Italy, and it has also been onsighted by Alex Megosl. Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on March 20, 2023, 05:24:31 pm
On Ondra's scorecard he's edited Cabane au Canada down to 8c+, but left TCT at 9a
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on March 20, 2023, 07:11:03 pm
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).

I remember the quote being C au C significantly easier than Azincourt 8c.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 20, 2023, 09:43:30 pm
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).

I remember the quote being C au C significantly easier than Azincourt 8c.

There you go, my memory is not to be trusted.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on March 20, 2023, 10:19:38 pm
Cabane au Canada is "significantly easier than Le Minimum" according to Seb Bouin (quote from memory, so I might be mistaken).

I remember the quote being C au C significantly easier than Azincourt 8c.

Stamina wad in stamina route easier than bouldery route shocker!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on March 21, 2023, 07:04:32 am
Found the Grimper article this came from:

https://www.grimper.com/news-azincourt-premier-8c-france-seb-bouin-ajoute-nouvelle-piece-vintage-rock-tour (https://www.grimper.com/news-azincourt-premier-8c-france-seb-bouin-ajoute-nouvelle-piece-vintage-rock-tour)

Beyond the historical interest, Seb Bouin emphasizes that it is sometimes interesting to return to the classics so as not to lose sight of what the reference quotations are. For example, he has no doubt that Agincourt is a notch tougher than La Cabane au Canada , yet rated 9a.

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on March 21, 2023, 07:27:40 am
But, but, does that mean Agincourt is undergraded?

Seems like the relative difficulty of the cutting edge routes from that time is a bit all over the place. Or is Agincourt *the* baseline 8c.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on March 21, 2023, 09:01:21 am
Moon wrote a magazine article at the time literally saying “everyone doing hard routes except me and my mate Jerry are grading them too high” so seeing as no one listened to him everything they were doing should surely go up a grade? Quite a few already have as I understand it.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on March 21, 2023, 09:14:56 am
How does Agincourt break down into boulder grades etc?  (and how does this compare to other benchmark 8cs?)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Teaboy on March 21, 2023, 11:11:02 am
There’s a video on YouTube of Ben going back on it a few years ago and he talks about it a different sequence in use. Not clear how different but the video is worth checking, not least to watch BM nearly retro flash La Rose
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on March 21, 2023, 02:11:23 pm
I think a lot of routes at buoux would be up graded if done now but maybe its down to the style of them being unpopular rather than them being hard.

I have heard said many times. Chouca is harder than most 8bs in spain, Rose would be 8c in spain and now Agincourt is harder than an 8c+ (9a) in Swizz. Hubble up to 9a and LA 8c+, cry freedom 8c, the oak 8b.

People used to head to Ceuse as it was thought the grades were soft, now i hear people say its tough.

Seems a trend, not one i agree with but a trend anyway. If the buoux routes got more traffic i feel they would go up.


Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: gme on March 21, 2023, 02:12:45 pm
Ondra and Seb seem to have a rep of being tough/down graders but maybe they are the ones who are right.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 21, 2023, 02:22:56 pm
People are also quite bad at the style of Buoux and would do much better if they spend a season or two there.

I consider myself pretty allround, but the first time I visited a local crag I stood on a sling to get to the anchor of a bog-standard, middle-of-the grade 6c. After having climbed there a bit and having gotten used to the style I did one of the harder 8as on the crag second go.

(Céüse has also been down-graded by half a grade almost across the board compared to the first edition of the topo. Femme Noire used to be unpolished and 7c+, now it is polished to a shine and 7c, etc etc)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 21, 2023, 04:19:57 pm
Totally OT but I thought Femme Noire was bang on at the 7c+ it gets in the newest guide.

Agree with the wider point about having to get used to the style of a place.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on March 21, 2023, 06:00:05 pm
There’s a video on YouTube of Ben going back on it a few years ago and he talks about it a different sequence in use. Not clear how different but the video is worth checking, not least to watch BM nearly retro flash La Rose

Just rewatched this and Ben says the crux is around Font 7C+ on small pockets up a blank wall (the famous shot hanging the pockets with feet off). Its seems like a lower rockover that Ben did using a small sharp crimp is circumvented by holds slightly to the right that Ben didn't use. Doesn't avoid the main crux move though
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: joel182 on March 21, 2023, 08:30:00 pm

I consider myself pretty allround, but the first time I visited a local crag I stood on a sling to get to the anchor of a bog-standard, middle-of-the grade 6c.

If you need to stand on a sling to get up it, it doesn't sound much like a bog-standard middle-of-the-grade 6c to me.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on March 21, 2023, 08:34:44 pm

I consider myself pretty allround, but the first time I visited a local crag I stood on a sling to get to the anchor of a bog-standard, middle-of-the grade 6c.

If you need to stand on a sling to get up it, it doesn't sound much like a bog-standard middle-of-the-grade 6c to me.

I've done it since, it's fine at 6c when you get used to the style
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on July 11, 2023, 03:44:51 pm
From Ondra's Instagram, by his own reckoning he's done ;

More than 200 9as and harder

Onsighted 91 8cs and harder

Done 1730 routes harder than 8a

Numbers like that really do show don't they, at his own game there really is nobody at the same level
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: cheque on July 11, 2023, 04:06:47 pm
In the comments of Ondra’s post a few people are saying that he still has to catch up with Dani Andrada’s numbers. I don’t follow top climbers in any detail and I’ve never really taken Andrada seriously because he looks like Keith Richards so can anyone shed any light on what his “numbers” are like?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on July 11, 2023, 04:28:27 pm
In the comments of Ondra’s post a few people are saying that he still has to catch up with Dani Andrada’s numbers. I don’t follow top climbers in any detail and I’ve never really taken Andrada seriously because he looks like Keith Richards so can anyone shed any light on what his “numbers” are like?

I'm not sure if Dani Andrada keeps a public logbook, but my impression is that he's spent the last 30 years equipping new routes in Spain, becoming a total stamina wad and onsighting everything < 8b. Given he's got 20 years on Ondra I could imagine he's climbed more 8s.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: HaeMeS on July 11, 2023, 05:11:44 pm
Don't underestimate Andrada. He is the original máquina. Some 5 years ago he had climbed 4000+ routes of 8a and harder. And was the 3rd to propose 9b for a route (after Rouhling and Fernandez). And he's still going strong. The Android and the Ondroid. Both have mind-boggling dedication to their game. Hats off to them.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Ged on July 11, 2023, 08:13:59 pm
4000 grade 8 ? That's quite something. If I'd had to guess how many grade 8s there are in Europe I probably would've guessed less than 4000
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: grimer on July 11, 2023, 09:33:06 pm
I thought Andrada had done 1000 in the 1990s?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 11, 2023, 10:15:18 pm
I heard he had the strength of a hundred men, each of whom had the strength of hundred men.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on July 11, 2023, 10:56:21 pm
Yeah I heard that too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: edshakey on July 11, 2023, 11:18:56 pm
I heard it from a hundred men, each of whom heard it from a hundred men
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: blaciqui on July 12, 2023, 11:20:54 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY2wdDldunY (apologies to all non-spanish speakers) 2 years ago he was on 4500 8s, he should be close to 5K now.

Andrada is the man. Not the strongest but probably the type of climber that should be copied the most, I really love his way to approach climbing away from modern day BS.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 12, 2023, 11:37:45 am
Great info, thanks / Gracias.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: andy moles on July 12, 2023, 12:22:52 pm
2 years ago he was on 4500 8s, he should be close to 5K now.

That is just ridiculous. That's equivalent to doing an 8th grade route every day for 13 years!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on July 12, 2023, 12:52:30 pm
I think Ste told me Andrada was aiming to get to 6k this year? Or maybe it was 5k?

The other crazy thing is that so many of these routes are his - he's not just done thousands but has bolted and cleaned thousands too!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Tony S on July 12, 2023, 12:55:04 pm
I really love his way to approach climbing away from modern day BS.

Amen to that!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: SA Chris on July 12, 2023, 01:13:04 pm
2 years ago he was on 4500 8s, he should be close to 5K now.

That is just ridiculous. That's equivalent to doing an 8th grade route every day for 13 years!

Along with his acting career as the original MacGyver ;)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on July 12, 2023, 03:47:45 pm
Love Andrada.

Quote
from some other thread

When I was in Rodellar Andrada was cleaning and bolting a new route in the Piscineta. It had fixed ropes on. Dani was using a grigri and ascender to jug up the ropes but everytime he bounced up he would snap his head back violently. It took us a while to work out that he was pulling the slack through the grigri with his teeth! That and the fact the fixed ropes were rubbing in about 20 places without a rope protector in sight made us question his sanity  :o

The route i was trying was adjacent to his new route and after i fell off I dogged to the top. I was halfway through lowering off when it dawned on me that the big ramp I was going to alight onto was also where the massive chunks of rock that Dani was levering off with a hammer were exploding. After frantically getting Al to stop lowering me we both shouted at Dani trying to get his attention. He was completely engrossed in the cleaning work and deaf to the world. Eventually he looked up. The conversation went something like this:
Dani!
Que?
...la roca...uno momento?
Ah...perdon, eh?

As soon as i was clear the rocks started coming down again!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: blaciqui on July 12, 2023, 04:14:34 pm
I think Ste told me Andrada was aiming to get to 6k this year? Or maybe it was 5k?

The other crazy thing is that so many of these routes are his - he's not just done thousands but has bolted and cleaned thousands too!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3TSMP7Kmh8&t (perdon de nuevo :whistle:)

Here is a video of him bolting a multipitch in Cantabria showing the kind of effort he puts - It may seem like I'm a cheerleader for Dani, but I believe these videos might be lesser-known among English speakers. They're truly authentic and demonstrate what motivation looks like.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on July 24, 2023, 03:53:43 pm
Nice vid out on his yt channel of his ascent of Vasil Vasil. It must surely be one of the 9b+ that is least likely to ever be repeated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw2I0nI8FLA
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on July 24, 2023, 04:36:46 pm
2:20 is well Peak District. In fact I guess it's like a 9b+ more aesthetic Hubble for style. Looks.....HARD.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 24, 2023, 05:04:27 pm
I knew it was short, but I did not know that it was that short! 9A boulder to a 6a+ free solo?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on July 24, 2023, 06:19:45 pm
As always, fucking love Ondra man what a guy
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: sirlockoff on July 24, 2023, 06:52:58 pm
I knew it was short, but I did not know that it was that short! 9A boulder to a 6a+ free solo?

he seemed to quote it more as 8b+ short sport to 8B single move boulder,

I wonder if his current self would consider a kneebar around 10:06 where his left hand is in the undercutish looking thing, and downgrade it grade or 2 :popcorn:, not sure if at that age he ever used kneepads?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on July 24, 2023, 10:29:53 pm
so just 9b then? :D
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on September 29, 2023, 02:55:59 pm
Another day another 9b FA. B je to! is the first 9b in Croatia.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxxszjyM2GP/?img_index=1
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: edshakey on October 06, 2023, 04:19:08 pm
Extract from a recent post about going to Slovenia

Quote
... The next day, I could make the first ascent of “Fantazija” 9a+ 👌 To finish the day off, I onsighted two 8c’s - Kingslayer and Inferno do vrha.
Double 8c onsight in a day, after a new 9a+, and this isn't even particularly newsworthy for Ondra. Incredible.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fultonius on October 06, 2023, 06:17:13 pm
I'd love to see a pan-European grade comparison chart at different levels. I epexcet in the 9a-9c region there's so much travel amongst the top climbers that they're fairly consistent. Some 8cs have been around for ages and I assume not all have been regraded, so there might be some inconsistency. In the lower grades us mortals climb at, there seems to be a huge variance...

Let's take, say, F6c as an example. In Spain, Greece they can be very straightforward compared to say, France, Finale Ligure there they've be more likely to get 6b+ or 6b, then we've got Slovenia/Croatia where they might veen get 6a/6a+.

Give the top end is, by my hypothesis, fairly consistent, it would be interesting to see at which level there is some grade compression....?   What we've noticed in Slovenia is that grades are consistently a couple of grades harder than elsewhere, but also that even in the lower grades they seem to be graded purely for the easiest sequence (so hard to onsight, knacky, sequences with hidden holds) are not given any leeway. (conversely in France etc. you get the feeling lower graded routes up to low 7s are kind of graded for the onsight, seeing as that's how they're mostly climbed.)
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on October 08, 2023, 08:39:47 pm
I'd love to see a pan-European grade comparison chart at different levels. [...]

Give the top end is, by my hypothesis, fairly consistent, it would be interesting to see at which level there is some grade compression....?  [...]

I made an attempt on such a chart at some point, based on my opinions and the opinions of some friends for harder stuff. There is indeed some amazing grade-compression, expansion and overlaps at certain grades in some areas. I never dared to post it anywhere since I realised that people much prefer to shoot the messenger rather than the message.

But I have it from pretty solid sources that since even 9b has become commodified and not so competitive anymore so there is a lot of grade creep and that old solid 9b's are a lot harder than most that have been put up the last 5 years.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 24, 2023, 07:18:33 pm
Casual 9a flash of a line called Peščena Ura put up by Jernej Kruder in 2020.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CyyWr8aM7QO/
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on October 24, 2023, 08:33:41 pm
For those counting along at home, this is his 7th onsight or flash at 9a or harder. Lest we forget, the only other person to onsight or flash a route in the 9th grade is Alex Megos who has climbed three routes at the grade in this style (Estado Critico, TCT and Intermezzo XY Gelöst).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Duncan campbell on October 24, 2023, 10:10:35 pm
Such a legend! Sounds like a tricky one too with a coordination dyno outside!
Get gold in Paris Ondra, then go back to specialising on rock and do some more awesome stuff!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on November 09, 2023, 12:14:02 pm
Another 8c+/9a onsight, this time El Gran Bellanco in Spain.

When Im recording impressive onsights on climbing-history.org I'll (somewhat inconsistently) record anything 8c or harder. I had a look at doing the same for Ondra and got bored because he's done it so often.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on November 09, 2023, 06:17:15 pm
It is a Pedro Pons route so I ask myself if Pedro went straight up via some absolutely heinous holds and everyone else wisely took a more meandering path. That is usually how it goes with his routes?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: crimpinainteasy on November 17, 2023, 10:30:12 am
Ondra legit looks like he might be on his best form ever. Nearly onsighted another 9a and got a 9a+/b FA after 3 days of work.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on November 17, 2023, 10:43:41 am
He's gonna get retroactive credit for the world's first 9A soon too
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: crimpinainteasy on November 17, 2023, 11:50:09 am
He's gonna get retroactive credit for the world's first 9A soon too

Would seem fitting that both the world's first 9a route (Hubble) and world's first 9A boulder are both grotty limestone problems.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: petejh on November 17, 2023, 02:30:53 pm
Would seem fitting that both the world's first 9a route (Hubble) and world's first 9A boulder are both grotty limestone problems.

And that both were given 8c+ by their respective first ascensionist...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: erm, sam on November 17, 2023, 02:36:49 pm
Quote
Get gold in Paris Ondra
He still has to qualify first....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: crimpinainteasy on November 19, 2023, 07:11:58 pm
.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 08, 2024, 01:17:38 pm
Lovely vid of his os of El Gran Bellanco 8c+/9a in Montanejos. Sometimes you forget what a weapon he is, but then you remember he's basically the only game in town when it comes to hard onsighting and watching the vid you can see why. Im more scrappy on my fifth session than he is on the onsight!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9jOgNy9rHQ
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 22, 2024, 02:45:15 pm
More first go waddage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1xVqqF61zA
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 22, 2024, 02:59:12 pm
My kingdom for Ondra to try an aesthetic looking route again!
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Wellsy on January 22, 2024, 03:08:28 pm
We're so desensitised to it but it truly is incredible isn't it, the consistency of his best in the world ability
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 22, 2024, 03:22:27 pm
I think that looks like an amazing crag! Maybe the line isn't the most standout but then what sport routes follow truly amazing lines? I feel a list coming on....

The area looks very atmospheric though.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on January 22, 2024, 03:44:29 pm
what sport routes follow truly amazing lines? I feel a list coming on....

Depends on what you're into as a line, but for starters: Tennessee, Tete de Gondole, Prouman show, Rose des Sables, La rose, Pull over, Alone, Hulkosaur, Tom et je ris, Black bean, Cosi fan tute, De batte mon couer, Colliseum, la reina mora, kalea borroka, Rollito Enmienda, Era Vella, La rubia, that 8c nr Briancon, Slimline, the big 8c arete in Costa Blanca that's name I can't remember, Supersonico...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 22, 2024, 03:44:36 pm
I've seen worse admittedly, but its hardly tom et je ris!

Nice looking crag but the rock isn't aesthetic for me. Obviously awesome climbing but that goes without saying  :bow:
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 22, 2024, 03:51:08 pm
...the big 8c arete in Costa Blanca that's name I can't remember...

This thing? https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/locaive-1701/el_camino_de_les_flores-21857 Should be on the list even if it's not the one you're thinking of, looks totally rad in person.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on January 22, 2024, 03:54:27 pm
People love to talk smack about UK sport, and yes, it isn't dripping golden tufas, but I can think of tonnes of inspirational Yorkshire lines. We could split hairs about whether they're "truly amazing". Maybe when you've supped from the fonts of Ceuse and Taipan Wall it all becomes intolerable shit but I don't think that's entirely the case.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: abarro81 on January 22, 2024, 04:10:00 pm
This thing?
That's the one

Ceuse and Taipan Wall
If we're including "good lines on stunning walls" the list gets very very big (Groove Train, Serpentine, Biographie, le cadre, most stuff in the bowl at Ramirole, etc...)

I don't think there are many sport routes in the UK that I would call amazing lines though. Maybe Totally free, The Thumb and Premonition are pretty decent, but in general it's a bit of a struggle to find "wow" lines on UK sport even when the routes are good...
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: dunnyg on January 22, 2024, 05:19:16 pm
Uk sport is ok, but the number of incredible looking lines I've seen in the last 2 weeks in Spain does shit all over it.

That's not to say I don't enjoy UK sport (and still want a belay Will). I think it is down to the amount of rock out here though (plus more tufas).
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Will Hunt on January 22, 2024, 05:47:55 pm
Yep, I get it. There's two arguments pushing against each other. The first is that we shouldn't oversell stuff because of our local's enthusiasm, the second is that we shouldn't insist that quality should always be judged against the likes of El Cap. On top of that, don't let's undersell quality because it's not cutting edge difficulty. On balance, I'd argue the UK has some brilliant lines, even if not many that we'd say were the best in the world.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Paul B on January 22, 2024, 05:50:46 pm
As someone who has previously been classed as being a bit negative towards the rock we've got here I think Barrows has nailed it with his list.

NSFW  :
Unpopular opinion: The relatively slick Yosemite Granite is inferior to that of Squamish.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: tim palmer on January 22, 2024, 08:39:58 pm
If you can get the weather I think there is bouldering in the uk which is worth travelling for but definitely not sport routes,  there are some fun ones but nothing approaching anything good on mainland Europe.   
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on January 23, 2024, 03:07:32 pm
Well that Slovenian crag has got a nice waterfall at least  :)

I wonder what Font grade he'd give the boulder problem start....
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: chriss on January 23, 2024, 06:05:00 pm


I wonder what Font grade he'd give the boulder problem start....
[/quote]

Even more off topic I'd love to see Ondrawad get back in to top end bouldering again.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: haydn jones on January 23, 2024, 06:42:28 pm
Well that Slovenian crag has got a nice waterfall at least  :)

I wonder what Font grade he'd give the boulder problem start....

he said the start is a font 8B
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: remus on January 23, 2024, 07:05:30 pm
8B in to soft 8c is some chunky grade maths! No wonder he was happy with the flash.
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on January 23, 2024, 07:37:06 pm
8B in to soft 8c is some chunky grade maths! No wonder he was happy with the flash.

9a+ according to Darth Grader
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: jwi on January 23, 2024, 08:50:34 pm
Hubble is what? 8B to 7c+ I heard?
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: ferret on January 24, 2024, 02:04:48 am
I see it often quoted as 8B/+ into 7c+, low end 9a according to the DG
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: lukeyboy on January 24, 2024, 06:51:16 am
More first go waddage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1xVqqF61zA

Just got round to watching this, what a total animal.

Particularly enjoyed the other Slovenian's response to Adam skipping a low clip: "Ahaha... You crazy bastard!"
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Kingy on January 24, 2024, 07:23:15 am
AFAIK Hubble's start is seen as Font 8B+ even with the kneebar
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: JamieG on February 09, 2024, 02:23:38 pm
Looks like he has been on Le Voyage in Annot. Reckon he'll see that off pretty quickly.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C3ISo8wIiGs/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Bradders on March 10, 2024, 01:45:04 pm
In case anyone was still concerned Adam's bouldering ability might not be up to scratch with the world's best...another 8B/+ flash to go with flashing The Ace and the 8B start to Pescena Ura recently.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4VZoEAMSKa/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Title: Re: Ondrawad
Post by: Fiend on March 10, 2024, 07:23:06 pm
Those are some damn vivid trousers too. Looks like he's training for a flash of Voyager sds...
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