UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: jwi on May 22, 2019, 09:12:48 am
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Tomi Nytorp has just put up the hardest crack in Finland, Privatvägen (Private street), 8c+.
For those who doesn't know Tomi Nytorp, he is an absolute legend in Scandinavia. Won a couple of nordic championships 15 years ago, and is still going strong, especially on the boulders – but he has also done a few 9a's abroad, like The Essential in Frankenjura and Escalatamasters in Perles, and some 8c+s like La Cabane au Canada and Speed in Switzerland.
Privatvägen has been a well known project for a long time, as it is the only line of weakness on an otherwise blank wall. Tomi Nytorp has tried the route a bit every year since 1999-2000 when he moved done to southern Finland.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oBRlu8wldbk/XORlg1lD0PI/AAAAAAAABPo/zQ3e4nzOZl8yf1-pXhzxjQeZnp0VSQRzwCLcBGAs/s1600/%2B%2B%2B%2B%2Btomi_privatva%25CC%2588gen-14.jpg)
(hope the link works. Photo: Mikko Mäkelä.
Otherwise the photo can be found here https://tyovaenkiipeilijat.blogspot.com/2019/05/privatvagen-8c-ehdokas-maailman.html or here https://www.instagram.com/p/BxsfegIj9Q3/
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Great looking route, crag sounds amazing too, are there any other photos of it?
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Yup, that looks hard!
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Looks amazing, the single line on the cliff. Google translate is particularly poetic with the original but he appears to be tying himself in knots to not give it 9a.
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Write up here:
https://stories.27crags.com/index/one-of-the-worlds-hardest-trad-routes-opened-in-finland?fbclid=IwAR1RpuiyWCuCBREOtanxkUSh6VRbRboSs9D7nsiG5lM7xjTxf2VyyPiuSzw
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Cheers shurk.