UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => get involved: access, environment, BMC => Topic started by: reeve on June 25, 2023, 06:22:17 pm
-
Here’s one for all you Stoney afficionados...
We are running a clean-up morning on Saturday 1st July (this Saturday)
At the last BMC Peak Area Meeting we discussed the state of ab-points at the crag, in light of ash die-back affecting many of the trees which are used as anchors. Of the options available for replacement, the consensus of the meeting was against bolts, but the feeling of the room was that alternative natural anchors need to be found. The problem is, many of these are hidden in the undergrowth so will require some work to make suitable trees accessible. Similarly, old tat needs to be replaced on some anchors and new installed elsewhere.
Many hands make light work, so if you would like to help out for a few hours on Saturday morning please get in touch: peak.area@thebmc.co.uk
Cheers, Andy
-
A list of jobs has been made by walking around the easily accessible areas but any suggestions people may have regarding overgrown top outs and dodgy belays etc will be much appreciated.
-
Seem to remember the cave above Our Father, which is also the belay on Alcasan having a bunch of manky tat and rusty pegs for a belay. Busy that day I'm afraid but would be up for helping another time if there is a ground swell of activity.
Good luck :thumbsup:
-
Too short notice for me but here are a few ideas/comments...
Top of Damocles needs clearing of Brambles/Rose Thorns. Thick clothing required....Maybe some kind soul can clean Damocles which does look brilliant....
Gollyberry corner needs clearing as does the top out.
Mortuary Steps/Morgue etc. Old 8mm bolt which is ancient (I placed the hanger around 87 but the stud was already there) needs an upgrade. The old stake needs inspecting as really old, its adjacent to the bolt. long way back to a fence otherwise.
Path above Traffic Jam/Pickpocket to Mineshaft was horribly overgrown with Rose Thorn in previous years...Need cutting back.
Regarding Alcasan...Route restoration required, the Our Father belay is ok and can be backed up with nuts but the section into Kellogg is no longer E2 or 5c. The 2 pegs that were in front of you as you went down into the groove have gone and so it seems have some of the holds. Its a hard dynamic move protected by 1 bendy old peg over to your right.
I cleaned the Gorse from the top of Minus Ten/Jam Sandwich a few weeks ago.
Hope its a decent turn out.
-
I had noticed someone had cut back the gorse on Minus Ten and added some new rope slings. Thanks. The path from that point to the big tree (Pearly Gates) is covered in gorse and will hopefully get cleared.
The right walls of Electric Quarry is a difficult one. It's a lot of work if no-one is going to do them. It really depends on how many people are going to volunteer.
If the forecast is still for rain Saturday morning then I doubt much will happen at all. I'm certainly not going to be scrambling around on wet grassy ledges in the rain.
-
Im around and have already said that I will attend which is no great shake as i live in walking distance, if the kits available dont mind cutting old tat off and replacing....be interested to see the effects nd state of the trees once the tats come off. An ash tree failed randomly sunday night just down from horseshoe, no wind or snow just fell over...bare that in mind when belaying/abseiling/lowering on the lime
-
I felled an ash tree at the top of Trowbarrow on Saturday by pushing the bottom of it with my foot.
-
I know this is really cheeky because I’ll be away that weekend, but…
Just at the top of Minus Ten is an old 8mm bolt hole in the wall facing you as you scramble up the path. It was placed to attach a ladder. Basher and AP used to use it. It’s no longer fit for use. Would be cool if it were replaced, it’s in the perfect spot!
-
In the perfect place for what?
-
Still the bolt in place to rhe left at the top of Boat Pushers...is that where the ladder used to be?
-
For a Bachar ladder kc.
The bolt I’m referring to is above the route Minus Ten, Hydraulix Man. Boat Pusher’s is the next bay along, it’s too high a wall for a ladder.
-
You've still got a Bachar ladder? I wasn't going to take a drill for obvious reasons but you can always borrow one at a later date.
Does the bolt and stake above Mortuary Buttress need a bombproof replacement? There is a yew tree off to the side so this is still good as a directional?
If the consensus is to make it a proper ab station to avoid the steep decent then that would make sense.
-
The Yew Tree is very close to the edge and it was always reliant on the bolt and stake which are both now getting on like myself.
It's worth a look to try and find a better way Imo.
-
You've still got a Bachar ladder? I wasn't going to take a drill for obvious reasons but you can always borrow one at a later date.
Yes, doesn’t get much use currently as it can be awkward to find places to use it.
That’s a nice offer, thank you. I may be in touch!
-
I felled an ash tree at the top of Trowbarrow on Saturday by pushing the bottom of it with my foot.
Eek, I was on Red Wall last week and another person there commented some of the Ash seemed to be recovering!
-
Recovery can be mistaken for epicormic growth. You may notice really untidy looking trees with new vertical branches sprouting upwards.
-
I've just emailed some information out to those who have been in touch - let me know if you haven't received it.