UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Pantontino on March 22, 2013, 11:16:30 am
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Pete continues his Ogwen campaign with yet another Big Daddy line extending Mike Adams' problem Danny LaRue:
(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Danny-LaRue-1-600_7299.jpg)
Madame Allure 8B
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=652 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=652)
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Nice line, looks very Glendo.
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that looks utterly sensational
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that looks utterly sensational
Even more so from here:
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/03/22/madame-allure-8b/ (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/03/22/madame-allure-8b/)
(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Danny-LaRue-4-600_7279.jpg)
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Agree. The majority of sitters don't warrant a new name.
So what is going on here then? Why not 'Danny LaRue sit start'..........?
Obviously this looks amazing anyway, they should rename green anazazazazai's in Petes honour.
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Agree. The majority of sitters don't warrant a new name.
So what is going on here then? Why not 'Danny LaRue sit start'..........?
Obviously this looks amazing anyway, they should rename green anazazazazai's in Petes honour.
Better ask Pete that! He's renamed a few sport routes after doing 2 different moves.
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(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Danny-LaRue-4-600_7279.jpg)
Looks like the jaws are about to snap shut
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(http://images.pictureshunt.com/pics/p/pacman-1974.png)
Pacman?
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Looks like a second pitch to the bloc below :)
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(http://www.akfx.co.uk/img/large/props/honey_monster.jpg)
Or Honey Monster?
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Looks like a second pitch to the bloc below :)
That'll be Paul O'Grady, Doylo's favourite 7B.
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Daddy 8b sleeps on the top bunk
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Giant Space Slug
(http://api.ning.com/files/0l5bF6P4QK*1rfnk1WZKZq1W5UMLvB1pHw1pUf06RPHfoBsAwIvczDxGHf0UTK3UdtV7aLKvdYkM3NIPs0yT3Y9hHx5mioPW/SpaceSlug.jpg)
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I'm not sure which is the most sinister - your giant space slug or Doylo's comment... :-\
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Amazing bloc scary too
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(http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Danny-LaRue-4-600_7279.jpg)
Looks like the jaws are about to snap shut
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8383/8579981389_f4e495b6ca_z.jpg)
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Awesome. This set of blocks is brilliant, although not extensive it's one of the best Welsh venues. Two pitch bouldering.
I sympathise with what Simon said about spotting Pete on this. I was spotting Mick (after trying to convince him not to try it) when he did Danny LaRue and it was truly terrifying. We had a pad sideways in the chasm, others on top. I was wedged into the chasm trying to bat Mick back in onto the pads whilst also trying to avoid being sent backwards down the drop. Could do with a bolt belay stance for the spotter.
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:popcorn:u
Could do with a bolt belay stance for the spotter.
Yes let's place a bolt in the Ogwen valley then tell Ken Wilson :goodidea: :lol:
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Haha, yeah using bolts for bouldering! Bound to go down well. Pads, bolts, chalk, sticky rubber... castrating the climbing experience completely. I heard some people even train.
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Could hammer two pegs in and join them with loads of tat. It is a trad valley after all. :P
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Giant Space Slug
(http://api.ning.com/files/0l5bF6P4QK*1rfnk1WZKZq1W5UMLvB1pHw1pUf06RPHfoBsAwIvczDxGHf0UTK3UdtV7aLKvdYkM3NIPs0yT3Y9hHx5mioPW/SpaceSlug.jpg)
Pete (and Mick) have missed a trick here as this problem should clearly be called Exogorth (http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Exogorth).
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Looks great Pete, Ogwen is developing really well.
How about an ENP placement?
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Could do with a bolt belay stance for the spotter.
Agreed the drop has put me off trying this line in the past
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Whilst I don't doubt that Pete has extended the problem I did and is a good effort!! I feel i would like to point out that I did in fact start Danny La Rue from a sit start not from a hanging position as Si put in his news item
“I started from a sitting position with the left hand on the aręte and right on the lowest part of a big curing edge hold. Blah Blah" As mentioned on the North Wales Bouldering site.
I'm sure Ben F will correct me if I'm wrong. Although I am not sure if my sitting start might actually be a hanging start for most.
Once again nice one Pete.
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Much as I love correcting Mick when he's wrong, I'm afraid I can't here. Mick did start sitting but he does have enormously long arms.
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Whilst I don't doubt that Pete has extended the problem I did and is a good effort!! I feel i would like to point out that I did in fact start Danny La Rue from a sit start not from a hanging position as Si put in his news item
“I started from a sitting position with the left hand on the aręte and right on the lowest part of a big curing edge hold. Blah Blah" As mentioned on the North Wales Bouldering site.
I'm sure Ben F will correct me if I'm wrong. Although I am not sure if my sitting start might actually be a hanging start for most.
Once again nice one Pete.
Mick, to be fair I didn't actually state that you had done it from a "hanging position", rather:
"Danny LaRue pulls on from a crouching start half way along the jutting left edge of the Lily Savage roof"
The reason I said this is because, regardless of how it was originally done, when I went up and checked it out I realised that 99% of climbers will have to do a crouching start. I haven't gone back and changed the Danny LaRue news item because that is still correct, i.e. you did start it from sitting (you giant, long armed monster!).