UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: JamieG on November 04, 2022, 09:24:11 am
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Does anyone have a topo for the Rankin boulder? Thought I might head out there this afternoon. Can’t quite piece together the information I can find online. The link to the blog on ukc seems to only have a blank page now. There is a photo with numbered lines on ukc. But I don’t which number is which problem. Cheers for any help. Jamie
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Hmm, I thought there was info here: https://scottishbloc.com/2022/02/17/dumfries-galloway-bouldering-update/ but it would appear not very much. Hopefully Stewart will spot this thread before you set off!
Oh yes and Ted went recently and said it was a nightmare to get to because of the clearfell/new growth, "like getting to Farr but ten times worse"
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Cheers Andy. Hmmm that doesn’t sound fun. I just assumed the thirlstane wouldn’t have dried out. It’s very clear today but there is no wind. I guess it stays damp in the cave.
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No idea sorry, I've never climbed in that part of the world!
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Isn't it the "Galloway Bloc" on pg 26 of Boulder Scotland, 3rd edition? You got your copy nearby?
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I’m afraid I don’t have the latest Scottish bouldering guide. Only an older edition.
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Check your messages
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Thanks Chris. Brilliant.
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No prob, good luck.
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This is a bit London Climber, but I'm quite disappointed that this isn't about a new bouldering guide designed by Rankin...
(https://cdn.loeildelaphotographie.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Spiky-Alys-Andrew-Gallimore-by-Rankin-2014.jpg)
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That pic is everything Tim Rankin isn't. Unless those studs were placed with a Hilti.
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Probably too late for Jamie but I created a path from the top road that is far easier than hacking through the quickly regrowing forest as per previous guides.
https://youtu.be/aQUwVonrolM
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Unfortunately i didn't get to tell Ted about this vid either so he went the old way which is a nightmare. I've sent an update to the approach to ukc page including the vid. I plan to get back there once it gets a bit cooler so I'll do some path maintenance. Jamie, hopefully you make it out alive..
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Noticed there was no moderator on ukc so i've updated myself and added descriptions matching the photo topo. Also took the opportunity to adjust some grades. Retroclaim from 7A+ to 7A and Bohemian Rhapsody from 7B to 7B+ (it's still fucking desperate for that) and adjusted some 6's. Hope anyone that's tried them agrees :-)
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Good work, that looks like prime tick country in there.
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Ticks are only really active in late spring, summer and you don't want to be anywhere near this boulder in warm conditions!
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I did Retroclaim on a flying visit many moons ago and given that I got up it in a session thought it couldn't be 7A+.
Think I posted on hear about it at the time to check if I'd actually climbed the right thing.
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I did Retroclaim on a flying visit many moons ago and given that I got up it in a session thought it couldn't be 7A+.
Don't think I posted on here about it at the time because I assumed most grades are bollox.
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Cheers everyone for the info. Ended up bailing on the Rankin boulder. Was chucking it down when I got to the parking. Went to Garheugh Port and managed to squeeze a mini session trying the sit of bowfinger. What a great problem. Done the stand before and the sit adds some proper burl to the technical finish. Unfortunately rain stopped play but I got a decent climb in. I come up most autumns for a few days so maybe next year I’ll make it to the Rankin. 👍
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Was going to say Garheugh would have been a better bet today I think. Give me a shout next year if you need a spot ;D
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Cheers Stewart. I’ll let you know when I’m up next year. The in-laws come every year in autumn and we usually join them for a few days. Got to head back to Manchester tomorrow.