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91
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by thunderbeest on March 26, 2024, 07:04:43 pm »
I'd say the time you spend preparing it X2 should be proper.

There's this guy around who's been up some lines in the mountain, had to aid some sections and claims it as a closed project because he want to free it. But hasn't done any effort in the last 2-3 years to return to the place (50 minutes drive). I don't think you can claim trad multipitch even if you brush some.
92
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by SA Chris on March 26, 2024, 06:43:38 pm »
There are words on Instagram?
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[.... and it finally hit me. OTE 78

Doubt I still have that one!
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"The path of the righteous boulderer is beset on all sides by the iniquities of the rules and the tyranny of wall owners. Blessed is He who in the name of friction and good performance shepherds the weak out of the gym, for He is truly his brother's spotter and the finder of lost cellphones. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison my session and destroy my brothers' ankles. And you will know My name is the Lord when I land my feet upon your chest cavity."
Fiend, 25.04.24.

Tattooed across your chest.
95
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by stone on March 26, 2024, 06:39:20 pm »
I'm getting the sense that people generally are saying for bolted routes a 2year grace period is a bit tight. Perhaps it would be more suitable to say that a developer ought to start thinking about opening a project after 2years and perhaps "society" ought not to vilify "route-stealers"  after 5years?

I agree with Pete's point about the nuisance value of closed projects being greatly influenced by the number of other potential routes and existing routes already at a crag or nearby crags. I think though codes of etiquette only really work if they are relatively consistent so people remember them.

Pete's example of a closed project was a situation that I guess arose because the existing etiquette is that the bolter has a perpetual right to keep a sport project closed. That bumped up against the reality of the best route being left undone for a generation at a venue that was the local crag for lots of people and had few routes. Perhaps a 5year rule would have avoided that? Perhaps an ethos that it's best not to bolt stuff you don't envisage doing (or handing on) in a couple of years might have dissuaded the developer of that project from bolting it in the first place and that might have been best all round?
96
I truly think that when people started climbing in shorts is when it all went down hill with climbing.
97
bouldering / Re: Limestone 7B
« Last post by stone on March 26, 2024, 06:08:46 pm »
It's great to hear about stuff such as Sheep Shifter that I'd never heard of before. The UKC Logbook website also has a three star 7A (Ram Rod) there. But that crag isn't in the 2023 RockFax guide! Seems such an oversight.
98
diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners
« Last post by slab_happy on March 26, 2024, 05:29:22 pm »
Also a really lovely little piece from John Kelly, one of the other 2024 finishers (and a member of the miniscule club of people who have finished more than once):

https://www.instagram.com/p/C45tCzHLxUR/
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The paying to belay your kid rule!!!
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