Not quite as late as Duncan Disorderly usually is....
Next week STG: Gentle shoulder rehab x 3
- yes. Gentle shoulder mobility x 3
- yes. Reduce intensity
- not really overall. Easy trad if possible
- barely. Get back on the social wagon
- yes but usual uphill battle.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes
- I guess so. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad
- yes. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners
- yes, put the not-entirely-reciprocated effort in. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out
- n/a. Look after injuries
- mixed bag, did rehab but pushed a bit too, gym x 1
- yes, elbow rehab x 1
- yes, shoulder rehab x 3
- yes, stretching x 3
- 2 but one was LONG.
M - Rest. Gentle shoulder rehab. Shoulder sore and impinged.
T - Active rest. Gym. Misc conditioning core / legs, TGU, a few tests with light arm weights (almost unbelievably weak, the weakest I've been in decades, probably due to shoulder fatigue). Elbow rehab, lots of shoulder rehab, 55 mins stretching. Shoulder impinged but slightly less sore around the area.
W - Rest. Depressed. Stretching session. Gentle shoulder mobility. Shoulder impinged but slightly less sore around the area.
T - Indoor bouldering @ Bloc Haus. 6 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5 (flash, all piss), 2 x V4-6 (flash). Tried another 2 x V3-5s and 6 x V4-6s (mostly desperate) and couldn't do them. Lost the will to live. Fed up with too much "all or nothing" setting with wild moves without enough natural small footholds, very much the indoor equivalent of Moonboard thuggery. Shoulder sore and impinged. Gentle shoulder rehab. Gentle shoulder mobility. A bit depressed.
F - 1 hour walking. 6B, 6B+, 2 x 6C, 6C+. Shoulder impinged but slightly better than previous day.
S - 1 hour walking. 3 x 6C, 4 x 6C+. Great day. Felt like myself again. Shoulder a bit impinged but really quite decent given the volume.
S - 40 mins walking. A bit of Easy Trad. Shoulder feeling quite a bit better. Post script: Both shoulders a lot more sore overnight and into the next day for no reason at all.
Up and down week managing shoulder and mental health but had a very fine day at the weekend. Shoulder nonsense is up and down especially given how well it coped with a big day bouldering vs how neither shoulder coped with a good night's sleep on Sunday
Next week STG: Not sure.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 1, shoulder rehab x 3, stretching x 3.