UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: cheque on December 30, 2023, 10:19:03 pm
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Here we go!
Previous years:
Aims for 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8416)
Aims for 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10711)
Aims for 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13192)
Aims for 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16685)
Aims for 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19228)
Aims for 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21363.0.html)
Aims for 2014 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23430.0.html)
Aims for 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25121.0.html)
Aims for 2016 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26617.0.html)
Aims for 2017 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27706.0.html)
Aims for 2018 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28583.0.html)
Aims for 2019 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29777.msg575948.html#msg575948)
Aims for 2020 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30389.0.html)
Aims for 2021 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31046.0.html)
Aims for 2022 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31674.0.html)
Aims for 2023 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33371.0.html)
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Right!
It has come to my attention that I turn 50 on August. Despite 2021 being absolutely awesome in terms of climbing goals achieved, the last 2 years have been dog poo due to injury and life crapness.
This must stop.
Since my 49th birthday I have been seeing a physio/coach every two months and this is continuing into the new year. I have embraced structured training after 36 years of mucking about and intend to continue with injury proofing my body.
With this in mind.
Climbing goals.
7B+ before I'm 50
I've only achieved 7B so far a couple of times despite being fairly consistent around 6C+/7A ( despite being inconsistent in actually climbing).
I'm hoping that a more consistent and strength based approach will get me there.
Currently got my eye on Ultimate Warrior. This may change.
More long term, I'd like to tick my two long term projects down Tremadog way. Both fairly burly and dynamic.
I also have a DWS venue I want to develop post birthday. Need a few less birds and some warmer sea.
Life Goals
I'm embracing the fact I'm probably fairly neurodiverse, and not always great in social situations. I want to strengthen the friendships I've made and climb more regularly with people outside.
I also recognise I need to keep up my lone wolf missions as I need to decompress from everyday social interactions.
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Climbing Goals:
Improve conversion rate for actually getting all those nearly ticks from '23 into successful ascents.
Sport
- >20 8a's or above
-LTG 8c, want to do Bat route but not sure 2024 will be the year for getting to Malham
-Badger Badger Badger
-Walking Mussel/Melancholie LPT
-Get back on Infaticide/Youthanasia LPT
-Insomnia, Dinbren
-Unfinished slate 8a's and others, The Medium, Wish you were here, Walls Within, Quarryman Groove pitch
-Sworn Enemies
-The Thumb
-Supercool
-Nemesis, The Cornice
-Get some other A55 8a's done such as Tommy Chamonix, Oyster, Madness Reigns or Nanazabho.
- Do at least 1 8b or harder.
Trad (most of these are safier sporty types):
-Jeune Cassini
-Dream Topping
-Trumpet Blowers
-Eye of the Tiger
-Top Loader
-From a Distance (want to try to flash this if I get to Pembroke with some sport fitness and some trad mileage in the bank)
-Craic Yr Maestri (may be a bit optimistic as would take quite a lot of prep/time, but being slabby could be good one to go on after sport days where arms are toast)
-Trad climb more. On sight >5 E5's
Multipitch:
-Unchi Maka, Ecrins. If i can fit this in with a family hol, have wanted to try this for years.
Bouldering:
-The Big Smile
-Crafnant problems
-Bytilith Wall
- At least 1 8A
Destinations:
-St Leger (Think I'm going in April)
-Pabbay (Think I'm going in June, should help with E5 on sights and trad mileage)
-Family Hol, French Alps areas
-Pex
-Glen Nevis
-Lots of LPT
-Yorkshire lime big 3 crags (because I love them)
-Slate
-Heptonstall
-Pembroke (criminal that I haven't been for a few years!)
At least 1 day of DWS
Life/Other:
- Get back doing more regular board climbing at home.
-Tick over with aerobic stuff, a bit of pleasure road biking and some park runs. Don't let love of the Giro and TdF make me give up climbing for a temporary road biking fad)
-Get round to doing the house DIY job/upkeep list that I have been putting off for years.
-Be a good Husband/Dad (whilst some how achieving all the other stuff :-\ )
-Get more comfy/confident in role at work, so that it takes up less mental energy for my climbing/rest of life.
-Be more life organised, so my wife gets time to do her stuff too.
-On 50:50 days (such as when i'm knackered from nights, or iffy forecast) just commit to the drive and get out anyway. Always get something done.
-Get the kids doing some multipitch climbs with Mummy for some family days out.
-Get on with Podcast project
Happy new year for a healthy and strong 2024 everyone! :2thumbsup:
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Good luck everyone!
Trad: 5 off the life list, try hard on a bunch of E5/6s, more multi-pitch adventures, more entertaining (for others, if not me) runouts and / or falls
Sport: Don’t bother building a pyramid (I’ve spent twenty years doing this and avoiding trying harder things) – just crack on with Monumental assuming it dries (if it doesn’t, then…) Climb at Malham (been saying that for the last three years on here I think!)
Bouldering: any of birdsong, pixie tits, blackfoot, facetime continuum or similar.
Bivvy somewhere cool
Do some harder cracks
Go DWS
Don’t get too weak over summer / don’t get too unfit over winter
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Not participated in these before, but first time for everything.
Climbing
I turn 30 later in the year, and despite climbed numerous 7Cs I have somehow never really progressed past this. I don't think I have ever put in enough sessions on anything harder. So before I do turn 30:
> 3x 7C+ (of which I have my eye on many, and a handful of sessions on some)
> 1x 8A (similar to the above, some should go with some reacquaintance and some time invested)
If I get around to getting on a rope:
> Militia at Giggleswick (I was very close three years ago, and then never went back)
> Get back down to Cheddar Gorge (having intended to for the last five [or seven] years, it has just never happened)
And then finally:
> Stay relatively injury free. Having spent the last four years on and off injured or academically-stressed, this would be nice
> Tick some of the harder project climbs on the board. Set by others and none of them are my style, so a good indicator of improvement.
> Get to a point where I cannot claim that my pinch strength is a major limiting factor
> Revisit some of the venues where things have been oh so close and I have then never gone back
Life
> Submit my PhD (with a hard deadline of mid February this will happen)
> Defend said PhD
> Get a stable job with a mortgageable income (Ha!)
> Get married (this should be pretty straighforward)
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Life:
Do some good husbanding and parenting. Our new baby is now 3 weeks old so my wife will be off most of 2024. It is definitely the year to try and strike the right balance to keep us all happy and ensure we’re able to keep our own identities along side the new priorities. A year of low expectations is in order.
Keep check on mental health. I’m pretty good in general, but do lock things away. The whole birth experience was rough as fuck and talking about it has helped loads. Hopefully it will help me open up more about anything else that gets locked away.
Also don’t lose focus on the dog who’s definitely in need of more attention now - we are working with a local gun dog trainer so I’ll aim to keep that up over the year. The dog loves it!
Depending on how contracts go, hopefully finish work for at least a few months to enjoy the last bit of maternity leave together away in the van.
Try to keep up a weekly yoga practice (though the class that I go to just stopped for good which has scuppered my plans a little).
Climbing:
Climb at least once a week. Do some structured board sessions given the reduced time I’m likely to have.
Font trip in the van.
Use baby as added weight. Always wanted to be able to one arm hang with her bodyweight when she was born, but I am so far off. Maybe keep doing some pull ups and dead hangs as she grows…
Some, hopefully, very attainable specific local routes if i manage to keep climbing once a week - more of a focus to get out and enjoy myself with friends
The Jim Grin - 7a
Angel Delight - 7a+
Cold Turkey - 7b
Haslam - 7b+
Lost In Thought and Lost In Time - 7b+
If everything is going well get on a 7c with a friend who wants to do one this year.
Running:
Get back up to 30 mins of running. I’d love to do more but my injuries keep requiring me to go back to square one if I have a break - and i think there will be plenty of breaks this year!
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Going big this year.
Sport 7b+
Trad E2
Boulder 7A
Hard for me, but with a fair wind, no injuries and a bit of luck, all 3 are achievable. Hopefully.
Good luck everyone 🤞
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Keep check on mental health. I’m pretty good in general, but do lock things away. The whole birth experience was rough as fuck and talking about it has helped loads. Hopefully it will help me open up more about anything else that gets locked away.
Our first was a tough birth experience. It’s only now with the second that we realised how much of an impact that had on the first few months.
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Good luck to everyone!
If hit my C goal in anything I’ll be counting it as green!
Bouldering
A - 7A+
B - New Cuttings 7
C - 7A
Also - try Pastoral and The Slide again.
New Cuttings was the perennial spanking I forgot to mention, I’ve never climbed a 7 there, even when I climbed (one) 7B+.
Sport
A - Anything from the to do list
B - Any 7
C - Tie on, indoors or out
DWS
A - Not even going to pretend I’ll do a 7!
B - New-to-me route above water
C - Climb above water
Running
A - Run 40 times
B - Run 20 times
C - Run every month
Life
1. January detox. I don’t think that massive excess followed by ‘dextoxing’ is a sensible or healthy way to live your life, yet here we are. Complete Sharkathon (maybe not quite 30 mins a day, unless walking counts) and dry January. Nutrition kick after epiphany.
2. Be present with children. Be a good example. Started the year well with less bad phone habits; let it slide.
3. Aim to support wife with her post pregnancy fitness recovery goals as much as she supports me! Facilitate her self care as much as possible.
4. Train/exercise consistently. Not just for climbing but for health. Return to strength training for its own sake.
5. Socialise with people with kids of the same age.
6. Meet up with climbing friends I haven’t seen due to reduced climbing.
7. Do something tangible towards career progression.
8. Donate blood again if I can. Previously prevented due to low Hb. Increase the iron intake.
9. Consistency, consistency, consistency. Last year I completed a habit tracker 37 weeks of the year. I can maintain lots of good habits easily when I do this. Aim to do better this year.
That’s far more than I intended to write! I’ve made the mistake of too many goals in the past and just not achieving anything. Most importantly, asides from the headline targets, I want to just remember that the really the process is the goal. How you live today is how you live your life!
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Come Sharkathon (maybe not quite 30 mins a day, unless walking counts)
I’m counting on it
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1)Unjustified
2) Serpentine in March
3) Climb in europe again in the autumn.
4)Make some progress on the 8s challenge, either one or the other of E8 or 8A...
Life
1)Buy better meat (ie. butcher not supermarket) and generally eat less of it
2) Keep plugging away on PhD and keep the faith that it's worth it... 15 months to go.
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Mainly repeating / rolling over the aims from last year, and trying to keep it simple.
Start sport climbing in the UK again - I really enjoyed my fortnight of sport in the Blanca this year, but never went through with getting back on the Yorkshire limestone. Yet again, if I enjoy relearning its intricacies, I think working my way back to f7b+ and finding a project for the next year would be good results.
More short bouldering holidays / trips to visit new crags, especially in North Wales and the Lakes. Likely not entirely reconcilable with the sport climbing aim, so would be happy with either/or.
Keep up the mid-week training / conditioning habit, try to do something, anything, 3-4 times a week - finger-board, pull-ups, kettlebell... whatever - just keep active.
Make more effort to get bouldering outside, okay the autumn / winter weather was crap, but I was really far too ready to boulder indoors (telling myself it was the sensible long-term choice; training for a brighter future that will probably never happen). I really need to find a few projects that inspire me, are reasonably dependable conditions-wise, and not more than 90 minutes drive away.
And for the non-climbing,
Make more effort to see friends and family.
Less booze and peanut butter!
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1)Buy better meat (ie. butcher not supermarket) and generally eat less
When you’re over this way may I recommend Hilltop farm at Malham who have the fluffy belted numbers you see around that way. They stock the farm shop at Airton but also offer boxes at good value if you have a big freezer. Check out their insta for regenerative grazing practices etc.
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New Cuttings was the perennial spanking I forgot to mention, I’ve never climbed a 7 there, even when I climbed (one) 7B+.
Years ago, a New Cuttings aficionado told me the key was to pre-emptively tape all of your finger tips. Apparently the sharp flowstone edges bite securely into the tape, letting you bear down to victory. That was just before I moved North so I never got to give it a go myself.
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New Cuttings was the perennial spanking I forgot to mention, I’ve never climbed a 7 there, even when I climbed (one) 7B+.
Years ago, a New Cuttings aficionado told me the key was to pre-emptively tape all of your finger tips. Apparently the sharp flowstone edges bite securely into the tape, letting you bear down to victory. That was just before I moved North so I never got to give it a go myself.
I’ll try anything at this stage.
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3x8A (hopefully this is just a case of closing accounts from last year)
See a surgeon (I believe Mike Hayton is the man to see?) about my finger I fractured in 2017 and explore the options available to me on that front.
Explore training again as this is something I've been awful at commuting to over the last few years.
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Almost all of these are rolled over or modified from last years.
Get the bogey routes list down to 5 or fewer.
Best trad year ever. Not bothering with counting HVSs because they’re not hard for me now, so 8+ E1s & 2+ E2s.
300+ days hip stretches. Progressed back to passable flexibility levels by doing 300 days of leg stretching in 2023 but most of those I only stretched my hamstrings. Adding another 10 minutes on the areas I have most to gain in should take me up another level.
Strength PBs. Every year I say I can do it, every year I start really well but then just go climbing spring- autumn and leave too many for the later months of the year when I have less motivation. In 2024 I plan to avoid this by joining the gym in the first few months and nailing most of them “early doors”.
Do more multipitch and go on more trips. Let’s say 10+ multipitch routes and 4+ actual overnight trips.
Good luck everyone :2thumbsup:
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Oh yeah Take practice falls indoors before the rock climbing season starts. While I’m happy to weight gear, abseil and even solo a bit these days, there’s something in the unconscious bit of my brain that still thinks that if I fall off above gear the whole system will fail and I’ll deck. This hugely holds me back and if I can get a handle on it I’ll be able to improve my climbing no end.
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- Make list
- Run 5k in the Peak (recommendations welcome)
- Go to at least one training session at a club
- Spin off my left hand
- 40m and sideline place kick
- Go away at February half-term somewhere with juggy routes and sun
- Climb any 7c route (repeats included)
- Bouldering in Lakes, N Wales and Tintagel (climb 7B)
- Have a look at Treebeard with Dave and all those cool new forest spots around there
- [add in summer plan when partner's situation is resolved]
- Help my son navigate through the early challenges of life
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Christ. What the fuck to put on this?? It could be "stay alive" or it could be "burn AndyF off by the sole virtue that I can probably get at least one E3 done next year" or it could be "regain strength fitness and confidence, actually tackle some of the trad inspirations I've shelved, do regular trips to Wales / Lakes / South West, plus some dream trips to Bohuslan, Ettringen, and Pfalz for a fortnight". And I could fail to do any or those at all....
So I guess anything I write has go to be a vague and speculative compromise... I can assume that realistically my power-to-weight is going to keep declining, my fitness is unlikely to improve, my mental health will stay very challenging and get in the way of climbing especially the logistics, I will be at a constant injury risk due to weight and age so won't be able to actually "train" in any progressive form, and I will always struggle with like-minded partners suitable for my current fragility. In that context I guess I should focus on learning from recent years, trying to slow the decline, and have some possibly feasible, gentle, but attainable goals:
1. Stay alive. Not always desirable but I'm not likely to tick other aims if I don't tick this one.
2. Continue to work on my mental health self-care. I can't predict what will happen, but I can keep trying.
3. Keep trying hard to build and solidify a social life, including accepting that overall it's far more skewed to me having to initiate contact, communication, and plans, but if I keep putting the effort in it will incrementally improve.
4. Keep active. Preferably active in ways that directly factor into my climbing, injury management, or slowing weight gain, but otherwise any activity that doesn't harm those aspects is valuable.
5. Keep Lancashire cleaning to a manageable minimum. Don't get carried away, don't get burnt out, don't get fatigued, don't sacrifice multiple potential climbing days. Get the big jobs done over a damp winter and stick to small amounts on climbing days in the trad season.
6. Keep up with the volume mileage indoors in crappy weather. Possibly increase intensity or add board sessions if....
7. ...take care and rehab my tennis elbow, and keep working on my shoulders. Ideally avoid other injuries roflbbqmaolol.
8. IF in a fit state, get back into rotpunkting as good all round training for trad. And do this instead of hacking away at ferns and turf.
9. IF I maintain enough strength / fitness / confidence / stability - set up partners and hustle to get on what I really want to do. Or at least a tiny bit of it.
10. Get back into checking for the NWB Coastal Crags guide. Curtailed by weather, injury, weather, punterdom, weather, etc but keen to do more exploring and checking.
11. Get back to Pfalz for 2 weeks in autumn, plus ideally one or more of Bohuslan, Ettringen, Pedriza, Annot, Font, etc etc. Not expecting to get even a halfway house here, but a couple of good trips would be great.
12. Do more trad in Wales, Lakes, Devon. A very low bar given the dismal 2023, but fundamentally important to me.
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See a surgeon (I believe Mike Hayton is the man to see?) about my finger I fractured in 2017 and explore the options available to me on that front.
I’ve seen him, on Ru’s recommendation. Seems to be the boxers’ favourite. Has a good reputation. In my case, he said it would heal if left alone, which it did.
@Fiend.
You forgot #13 - scare yourself at Gogarth, with me.
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Keep turning up on the Bladerunner Roof project - probably can't do it, but whenever it's dry, I'd like to have at least half an hour trying it before moving on to other things. 10 sessions minimum would be a nice commitment.
Try to film something every time I go out climbing - I enjoyed putting together a climbing video last year and should try to get a new interesting angle on something each time I go out.
Develop at least 10 new boulder problems
Last year's goal of 10 sessions on rock with other people was a nice one (that I easily achieved) so that one can roll over to do again.
20 minutes hip opening exercises at least 6 days per week every week (5 days off allowed throughout the year for illness, events, etc).
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Basics
- 50 indoor climbing sessions
- 50 fingerboard sessions
- 100 stretching sessions
- 25 outdoor sessions (have a sabbatical to take so should manage more than 2022)
Process
- Book a big trip for my sabbatical (some variables here but hoping for Yosemite in October)
- Try something ≥ E4 every time I’m out on trad
- Try something ≥ 8a for at least 3 sessions
- Always visit crags with life list routes on
- Always try a life list route if I’m at the crag
Numbers
- 8a indoor or out
- At least 3 ≥ E4 trad routes
- Something long, hard and (preferably) mostly free
Some routes I’m interested in trying, if anyone is keen for pairing up for any of these then please DM me.
- Infinite Gravity - Blackers Hole
- Adrenochrome - Lulworth
- Wall of the Worlds and Lean Machine - Boulder Ruckle
- Return of the Gunfighter and nearby routes, Paradise Lost, Bird of Paradise - Cheddar
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Happy New Year and good luck for 2024 everyone.
Oh yeah Take practice falls indoors before the rock climbing season starts. While I’m happy to weight gear, abseil and even solo a bit these days, there’s something in the unconscious bit of my brain that still thinks that if I fall off above gear the whole system will fail and I’ll deck. This hugely holds me back and if I can get a handle on it I’ll be able to improve my climbing no end.
Totally worthwhile. I did this last year, using the boring very slow progression approach. I got to about 200 falls and should have done a lot more. Most of the time I was barely above the bolt when letting go but it still had a huge transfer to the real world. (I struggled working sport routes, I found it really mentally demanding repeatedly switching from hanging on a bolt to climbing with a 100% chance falling, probably because I have a long history of climbing whilst trying to avoid falling at all costs. Taking very many short falls was therefore specific to my needs.)
1a. Try Hard: spend more than half my sport and training sessions on things I can't flash. Doing this whilst minimising the inevitable tweaks, which mean I can't always just try hard, is the crux of my climbing.
1b. Try Hard 2: put time into a good 7b+. I’m likely to be in Somerset a fair bit this year so Uphill Quarry (suits my strengths), Brean Down (close to the opposite to my strengths) and Cheddar (variable) are the most likely venues. Overseas options also count.
1c. Try Hard with a Vengeance: fall off or entertain onlookers [reeve, 2023] on a trad. route.
2. Climb in five places new to me. Malham would be good. Range West or somewhere on the Llŷn would be great. Lundy or a Scottish island would be even better. Most likely will be obscure quarries in the (very good) new Bristol Sport guidebook.
3. Climb with five new partners. Enjoyed this last year so rolling it over to encourage me to continue to make the effort which doesn't come naturally. Get in touch, especially if anything from 4. appeals!
4. Do ten routes from Pat Littlejohn’s SW Climbs. The 1st edition as this is the one I grew up with and it means more to me than Hard/Extreme Rock or their ilk. I've been chipping away consciously for the last five years or so, 118/201 so far (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/south_west_climbs_-_pat_littlejohn_1st_ed-3639). Fortunately I did the majority of the E4/5s back in the day and it now presents a good stretch but with no completely ridiculous targets given a rope gun for the multipitch routes. Finding partners for the very unfashionable Cheddar or South Devon trad. will be a challenge. Getting fit enough for Rainbow Bridge and the two Swanage E4s will be a big challenge. And there are large gaps in the Lundy selection, probably the sternest test.
5. Do something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free. Keen to return to Verdon: travel by train worked really well and, in my mid-60s, 10 pitch routes with time for a pizza in the evening are becoming more attractive than 25 pitch epics starting and finishing in the dark. And, well, it's the Verdon!
6. Rematch with Supersonic.
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Never contributed on here or any other forum so goal is to actually be a part of climbing community more.
Sport
1) Consolidate repoint at 7a, preferably including the two at Anstey's and maybe also Potato Head
2) Consolidate 6b as onsight grade, bit murky on this at the moment
3) Chase the grade on 7a+, at least puts me on some harder stuff and more effort
Hoping through these to get more time on sport and in differing styles. Preferably also a bit of multi-pitch on this as well. Would be nice to do another trip abroad and focus more on sport.
Boulder
1) Consolidate 7A as doable grade
2) Consolidate flash at 6B+
3) 6C on Dartmoor, the Barrel feels vaguely possible or at Tunhill
4) Chase grade of 7A+, hopefully at Tintagel
5) Keep having sessions out and improve strength
6) Go to font and don't injure myself there again
Trad
1) Consolidate HVS as onsight
2) Onsight E1
3) Do Aerobic Wall ground up, love the problem as feels very possible, gave it one go in bad conditions
4) Do some of the sea cliff stuff about (going to include Magical Mystery Tour here as feels sacrilegious to be in South-West and not do it)
Training
1) Actually do some with vague structure
2) Get more flexible
Life
1) Graduate university
2) Get a job
3) Keep in touch with people as lives change
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Finally completed my aims in 2023 - 2024 might be ambitious...
Climbing
- 10 V9s
- 5 V10s
- 1 V11
- Go on at least three trips
Training
- Get down to -10lb BW assistance HC on one-arm BM2k slot
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Finally completed my aims in 2023 - 2024 might be ambitious...
Climbing
- 10 V9s
- 5 V10s
- 1 V11
- Go on at least three trips
Training
- Get down to -10lb BW assistance HC on one-arm BM2k slot
Missed one as I've been doing bench for the first time this year, would like to set an arbitrary goal:
- Bench 1RM 300lb
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Climb with other people
Skate with other people
Go fishing more often
Find something new to learn
Not get any heavier
Visit Stockwell bowl again - man, that place is awesome
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Long covid recovery - be able to do more. Given that this disease is an absolutely masterful wrecker of plans and goals, I'm going to keep this pretty open. More walking, doing things I haven't been able to do over the last two years, all whilst managing my energy levels such that I don't crash or go into reverse.
Climbing - go to the wall regularly. Climb outside at least once. Both without causing any significant setback or sickness.
Continue stretching and do some leg and core strengthening exercises to help with my dysautonomia (and rockovers).
Do some work. Any amount, any duration, payment would be nice.
Improve Sinhala. Hard to quantify this, initially perhaps learn 200 new words. That doesn't sound a lot but there aren't many easy wins in a non-European langauge. Being able to hold a proper five minute conversation would be awesome.
Day to day living - improve our flat a bit, pull my weight or more around the house, learn some new recipies including some fancy ones, maybe a soufle or classic sauce.
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1. Eat better. I want to cook healthy meals more often, drink less and put a bit of thought/effort into lifestyle stuff. I am interested to see whether getting my weight back down to 11 1/2 stone and generally living better makes much difference to my climbing.
2. Wall of Spirits, Pentire. I want to at least invest a bit of time working this with a view to headpointing it. Whether I actually go for the lead will depend on how good I feel on it, and whether the rotten peg by the traverse can be replaced.
3. North Cornwall DWS project. A bunch of friends have spent the last few summers developing an amazing new DWS venue. I think I’m the only one of the regular gang that’s not done any of the FAs there. There’s a really obvious line left to do, but it’s very high and suffers from a seepage patch. For it to go will require form, confidence and conditions to all coincide.
3. South West E4/5s. Would be good to knock at least a couple more off the never ending list.
4. Climbing trips. A week abroad somewhere for something fairly long, moderately hard and mostly free would be great. I would settle though for a couple of weekends somewhere in the UK such as the peak and/or North Wales.
5. Family stuff. Have a couple of good holidays together (we’ve booked for El Chorro at Easter and are thinking of the Lakes in the summer), settle eldest daughter into secondary school come September, and generally try to be a decent husband/dad.
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Less booze and peanut butter!
The booze I get.
But why on earth would you want to cut down on peanut butter! A day without peanut butter is a wasted day. Absolutely love the stuff! Got to be crunchy though. These smooth deviants need sorting out.
Oh yeah, climb a 7C. Maybe two if I’m lucky.
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Great reading through these. :popcorn:
I’m avoiding using lots of grade based goals this year as I don’t know how it will pan out. Operation looming ver soon. ( see goal 1)
Goal 1. Rehab & rebuild
Be consistent & committed to elbow rehabilitation post surgery. I have a right elbow osteocapsulectomy due sometime in January.
I was told the success of the surgery depends greatly on my rehabilitation. It won’t repair the deterioration of my osteoarthritic elbow, but should improve range of movement.
Goal 2. Try hard when it matters most
Actually fall off on send attempts, not saying take.
Goal 3. Climb at Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert in the South Of France- near Montpellier. Get a lot of routes done.
Goal 4. Climb at least two multi pitch sport 3 pitches or more in this trip.
Goal 5. Redpoints
Largely reliant on Goal 1.
Redpoint five routes 7a and above
- [ ] Pit Viper - Deep Rake
- [ ] TBC
- [ ] TBC
- [ ] TBC
- [ ] TBC
The following two goals, if anyone is needing a belay, please consider giving me a call. Happy to meet new climbers & crags.
Goal 6. Explore the UK sports options
Climb at 2 new sports crags in the UK (outside of the Peak - Yorkshire/ Wales/ The Lakes).
Goal 7. More Peak Sport
Climb at 3 new Peak sports crags
Goal 8. Longer term health investments
Improve mobility and embed mobility & flexibility into my lifestyle. To be able to comfortably place my palms flat on floor in a standing pike.
Do a pistol squat with both legs
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Do some climbing, that wound be nice.
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The year I’ve sketched out so far in my mind:
Jan: Sharkathon and no booze. Persist with Bens Roof whilst I think I’m getting progress. Maybe a bit of grit soloing. Training. Would like to get out to Spain for ~10 days to Spain at end of month. No takers yet.
Feb: Bigger emphasis on training
Mar: Climbing with Paul at LPT and Malham on Statement and the Oak
April: Turn 60! 😱 Maybe solo 60 routes at Stanage or similar (did 50 in the distant past at VS and above) Have a birthday do at Malham
May: Two trips to Pabbay snd Mingulay pencilled in with the Scottish team Paul climbed with last year. He hasn’t included me on their WhatsApp group in case I upset them
Summer: Hope to base myself in Europe somewhere Alpinish for much of it with Sonia if she can swing the working from home thing. Take the opportunity to do multi pitch stuff. She’s also running a marathon in Paris during the Olympics so combine with watching a few events and Font.
Autumn: Usual projects no doubt.
End Oct / Beginning of Nov: ~3 weeks in RRG and fit enough this time to tackle something steep, sustained and out there on the Motherlode
Determined to get back to normal weight levels this year and hoping my motivation won’t be ambushed. Also will help my peace of mind if some family business issues are resolved.
At some point would like to get to Ogwen to do a few days of scrambling and soloing
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I will keep this simple:
One 7a benchmark on the mini moonboard. Exit... stage left will not count unless I panic.
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Keeping goals sort of vague but ideally:
- finish consolidating 7C - I’ve done 5 so far and would like to get 10 done in varying styles (probably not slab though as I’m garbage at slabs and all the hard slabs are also highball or have death landings)
- 3 more 7C+ boulders - got a few in mind, grand doigts sit, renegade pastor, maillard
1 8A - idm which one, got eyes on thick end, gorillas or meat hooks atm.
- continue stretching every day. In 2023 I went from 153cm box splits to 168cm I’d love to get full splits over next 5 years
- continue training consistently and staying injury free
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I'd like to;
-Climb in a variety of places on a variety of rock types in a variety of styles
-Avoid injury and look after old injuries well
-Enjoy my climbing, indoor and out.
-Get generally more strong and athletic
-Do well in my job, be a good partner and friend. Be healthy and treat my body well.
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8a
8A
E8
1/3 would be good.
2/3 would be amazing.
3/3 would be a little unbelievable.
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Any routes/problems on the cards Rob?
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Climb outside
Do a ride that’s double my age.
Concert with grandson
Ride some cols
Surfing lesson with grandson
Not break myself
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Any routes/problems on the cards Rob?
8a - loads of stuff I'm keen for at Dinbren, LPT, and the gorge, this should be the 'easy' one.
8A - going to scout a few options over the next couple of weeks. Needs to be regularly dry and within an hour's drive. Yellow Finish, 36 Chambers Sit (both might be 7C+?), one of the Sub-Moron links or something at the cave are all candidates.
E8 - Gravediggers, The Rising Son, or something at Nesscliffe? Will be leaving this one till later in the year.
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Yellow finish seemed 8a to me, I think 36 chambers depends on if you can lank it a bit?
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I wasn't really sure if I wanted to bother writing goals this year, but then I realised that it might provide some benefit to think about these things, and I can always ignore them if I can't be arsed.
It's another thing to reflect on at the end of the year to appreciate how many unpredictable things (good and bad) can happen, and that planning can be an incredibly futile process at times.
- Get married. Then subsequently remain married, and generally be a good husband.
- Stay psyched. This is the main climbing goal isn't it, just keep enjoying it.
- Be less injured than 2023. This should be an easy one, I hope. Ideally no injuries at all but some tweaks are bound to happen.
- Finish remaining Moonboard 6C+ benchmarks. Consolidating more hard stuff would be great but can't really pick a number.
- Continue visiting new-to-me areas as usual, let's say 12 to average one a month.
- Do some DWS, and take some actual falls. Not 15m wangers, but trying hard in a relatively calm and safe environment. Don't fuck my headgame like I did in 2023!
- Boulder on the Llŷn. Maybe make a weekend of it and revisit that little arête at Nant Gwrtheyrn?
- Touch some rock in another country.
- Revisit some problems I've already tried, including but not limited to:
*Louisville Lip
*Main Vein
*Rigpa
*Cosmic Wheels
*Brass Monkeys
*Jerry's Roof
*Awooga
*The Mentalist
*Cobra Strike
*The Punk
*Harvey Oswald SDS
*Bad Moon Rising
*Suavito
*Cruella
*Silence of the Rams
*S&M
*Tierdrop
*Esoteric Blaenau projects
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This year is the year of sport climbing. It is time to put some time in to Kilnsey, Malham and the circuit board
-Climb five 7as or harder
-Climb a 7b
-Climb something cool at Kilnsey
-Pull on comedy to see how hard it is
-Onsight a 6c (or harder!)
-Climb three more from the yorkshire grit 3 star list
-Book some trips somewhere inspiring
-Do at least one black book trip (caving)
-Don't get fired
-Dont get injured
Wish me luck!
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This year is the year of sport climbing. It is time to put some time in to Kilnsey, Malham and the circuit board
-Climb five 7as or harder
-Climb a 7b
-Climb something cool at Kilnsey
-Pull on comedy to see how hard it is
-Onsight a 6c (or harder!)
-Climb three more from the yorkshire grit 3 star list
-Book some trips somewhere inspiring
-Do at least one black book trip (caving)
-Don't get fired
-Dont get injured
Wish me luck!
Good luck! I’d be keen for some after work sessions this summer - drop me a message if you’re struggling for partners.
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Hmm. I debated about posting, it's been a few years, but hey.
- have a whole year without operations or injuries and with consistent climbing of all types.
- engage with 'process goals' rather than performance goals and learn how to get out from inside my own head when climbing.i.e. embrace failure.
- get back to regular home board sessions and documenting them, tracking progression (which has always helped with psyche)
- more fingerboarding
- More good trad days out where possible, with more intention when at the crag.
- try to dial back on stress inducing work / business related situations and learn to say no.
- rediscover more chossy Lancs based esoterica and dig it out.
- finish half the guide.
- grade wise, don't really want to fixate on anything this year, but anywhere close to 7B would be a dream, trad wise who knows, could be anywhere from HS to E4...
- improve diet, less booze, more general cardio blah blah
- do all the above while being an acceptable dad/husband etc, spend quality time with the fam...
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Didn't bother with this thread last year (injury induced low psych), not got that excuse this year so might as well!
Climbing
- Do an E2
- Do a F7a, probably in Spain
- Go bouldering and enjoy it without ruining skin for the next week
- Keep doing conditioning after climbing
Potentially conservative, but not planning on doing loads of training, so not wanting any pressure.
Running
- Run regularly if not injured (3+ per week, high mileage if possible to setup long term goals)
- Do a big AL fell race, probably Borrowdale
- Get qualifying races done for said big fell race (nice intermediate goal)
- Look into Paddy Buckley legs
- Do better (position-wise) in British Fell Relays
- Some sort of big day out like Welsh 3000s, Y3Ps, etc
Secondary goals
- 5k PB
- 10k or half PB
- Across Wales Walk event if summer goes well
Other
- Big solo trip to Scotland, mainly to spend time in the Cuillin
- Take camera on most days out, take good pics
- Stay injury free!
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Good to have these written down innit.
Bouldering
More volume at 7C+/8-something.
Think about being smart about my "training" and maybe push a little bit
8B, or at least get close and still be working on/towards a specific one
Don't get injured
Not bouldering
Give lots
Look after myself (short-term, long-term, many contexts)
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It looks like I didn't actually post any goals last year, but I had some long running ones in my training log.
I've got quite a few non climbing ones:
Process, print and hang more photos (I take loads, plenty good enough to print but somehow never get round to it)
Start work on renovations in Slovenia
Finish DIY in flat (bookcase, snagging, redecorate bedroom after water damage)
Climbing and other outdoor sports goals
Go MTB once per month
Finish of Endurance at Dumby
Go back to Pass of Ballater and finish off Drambui
Get stuck in to Railway Children
Some trad weekends in NW
I had been kind of trying to work up to E6 onsight and thought a solid winter of fitness training, 7b+ 2nd go abilities and some early season trad would see me right, but somehow I couldn't find the zone last year and most of the time it felt rushed, forced and the wrong kind of stressful. SO this year my only trad related aim is to ge tthe flow back at any level and hopefully the psyche will be high and I might get a chance on an E6. Maybe Major Domo would be a good one Duncan?
Oh: Get on / work / lead Dalriada and maybe finish off Wild Country when I'm up there if it feels good.
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Haha how funny that I just happened to click on this thread… I didn’t post any aims last year and have been umming and ahhing about whether to but do find it interesting seeing what people chalk up As their aims.
So luckily I read your post Fultonius!!
I think Major Domo would be a good one to go for it on; it’s not that pumpy, it has got quite a funky crux but after that there is a bit of a rest and I didn’t the think the top was too bad, just take your time. It is well protected, I actually think I didn’t protect as well as I could of (rare for me) after watching the guy after me who got a bomber wire in and fell on it a load. I slammed a cam in and kept trucking!
I also did it as a warm up so can’t be that hard! Defo a good entry E6 and it’s brill so if you do it and it gets downgraded you won’t mind + in a stunning spot with a van doss at the parking with a beach. Not even the lottery can buy you that
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Go back to Pass of Ballater and finish off Drambui
Give me some warning if you are up and need a string holder. Keen to get some trad done this year.
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Last year was pretty much of a write-off, so just rolling over with a few changes.
Usual running/climbing split for me. Managing the balance is always a challenge, so just being happy with one or the other would be great!
Climbing :-
- Do more stuff on a rope.
2021/2022 2023 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing). - Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - failed at this in recent years so need to make more effort before the wet Autumn weather writes the season off and I scuttle back indoors. I'll put a number on it to try and make it more specific - 10 problems F7B and above.
- Have a couple of weekends away somewhere. Make the effort to meet up with friends more, rather than going solo all the time.
- Some arbitrary numbers - 20 new problems F7A and above, 5 new (to me) crags.
Running :-
- Get back to racing following long Covid/post-viral stuff. Long plodding in the first half of the year and then drop miles and build some speed again.
- Either short fell races and the fell relays in the second half of the year or focus on the roads and maybe a PB.
- Some arbitrary numbers - 50+ Oxstones runs to/from home, 30+ different trig points.
Life :-
- Finish off house projects - probably kitchen and render this year, then a couple more bits to go.
- Make more time to spend with my wife and without the kids.
- Try and get more comfortable with alternate ways of working that don't involve me working evenings, weekends or on my day off. Delegating is something I really struggle with as I have a definite way of approaching problems and have rarely found staff that quite as rigorous in their approach.
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In many senses of the word, I had my best year in a long time last year. I think it was the first time in many years though that I failed to put goals down in the UKB thread. I'd like to build on the below:
Early in 2023 I wanted to commit to a daily habit that I thought I could stick to for 365 days. Having always wanted to learn Japanese and to brush up on GCSE Spanish, I made this the goal. As of tomorrow, I hit 365 days of continuous learning and I'm delighted that a) I managed to do this with having a 2 and 4 year old and b) the satisfaction from being able to handwrite (relatively neatly now) every hiragana character is very rewarding. Clearly still a long way to go but tapping Japanese tourists on the shoulder at the Albert Dock has given me a bit of speaking practice (and thankfully not freaked any of them out).
After nearly 15 years of effort, all of the stars have started to align to finally expand my whisky business and selling that first cask was a huge tick on that journey. Some very exciting things in the pipeline for 2024 and an excellent business partner coming in to the fold, thus making me no longer a one man band.
Managed to pull on some small crimps and had a purple patch for a short amount of time before deciding a mono pulling contest with Crouch and Donnelly was a good idea after a few beers on day one of my 40th trip. A few harder things on Pisa Wall, Pex I'd like to do this year. Finally learned how to diet in 2023 so back on that programme to get to a proper fighting weight.
So to the measurable goals:
1. Be able to handwrite every katakana character come COP 2024 and learn 100 kanji.
2. Secure one good repeat international bulk whisky contract and 40 new private clients.
3. Do NW Overhang sitter at Pex. Will keep it light touch and hope some decent board training and hardcore dieting will align with some time to get outside further afield.
Serious godspeed to all of you for you goals in 2024. Always greatly enjoy reading others here.
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...learn 100 kanji.
I learned my first ... 300(?) by rote, and have forgotten most. Before going to China I relearned a lot of Kanji using James W. Heisig's Remembering the Kanji. Highly recommended. In ‘Remembering the Kanji’ Heisig arrange them in order to make it easier to memorise them, not in order of usefulness when reading or learning Japanese, so if you go that road you need to memorise a lot more than 100 for it to be useful. I still highly recommend this book!
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1. Be able to handwrite every katakana character come COP 2024 and learn 100 kanji.
Great goal.
This has inspired/reminded me to amend mine:
Didn't bother with this thread last year (injury induced low psych), not got that excuse this year so might as well!
Climbing
- Do an E2
- Do a F7a, probably in Spain
- Go bouldering and enjoy it without ruining skin for the next week
- Keep doing conditioning after climbing
Potentially conservative, but not planning on doing loads of training, so not wanting any pressure.
Running
- Run regularly if not injured (3+ per week, high mileage if possible to setup long term goals)
- Do a big AL fell race, probably Borrowdale
- Get qualifying races done for said big fell race (nice intermediate goal)
- Look into Paddy Buckley legs
- Do better (position-wise) in British Fell Relays
- Some sort of big day out like Welsh 3000s, Y3Ps, etc
Secondary goals
- 5k PB
- 10k or half PB
- Across Wales Walk event if summer goes well
Other
- Big solo trip to Scotland, mainly to spend time in the Cuillin
- Take camera on most days out, take good pics
- Stay injury free!
- Keep doing the Welsh on Duolingo
Fully accepting it's not an optimal learning method, but I'm on a 485 day streak and intend to continue that for another year. Besides, I'd not have learned any if I didn't bother! Just gotta keep plugging away at it and it'll improve. Maybe I'll even try some out in a shop/pub and get either a) answered in English (most likely), or b) answered Welsh and then I'm immediately stuck (also very possible) :lol:
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- Keep doing the Welsh on Duolingo
Fully accepting it's not an optimal learning method, but I'm on a 485 day streak and intend to continue that for another year.
I do not know about using Duolingo for Welsh, but I used it during lunchbreaks and on the commute to start learning French before moving there. I found it OK for self-study as a beginner; when I moved to France I took full time classes for Alliance Française and after a placement test they let me skip the first month, so I saved the cost of 80 hours of classes. Obviously I could probably have self studied by other methods as well, but the app definately helped me
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I've been pondering what I should go for this year, I think this makes a decent list:
Winter
I need to tick more Munros in winter if I want to join the SMC. Making sure I combine doing some decent routes at the same time would be great. I've got off to a reasonable start with this already. A friend gave me a little Munro record book for Xmas, so my first task is to try and remember which ones I've actually been up! If I could bag a dozen in winter conditions that would be great, and if I can also get half a dozen days winter climbing as well even better.
Sport
Getting Silk Purse finished is the obvious gap. Having a few days in Strathyre and Glen Ogle would be good too. Chain Lightning is an obvious target, but really I just want to make sure I visit.
Trad
I got very little done this year and never got my head together, so it's all to play for.
I'd love to get 3 big mountain routes done. I've not been to Creag an Dubh Loch, so something there would be good, Titan's Wall and Minus 1 are other targets.
One thing I really enjoy about living in Scotland is being able to have a big hill day and throw in some easy classics as well. I've got a few in mind, if I got one done that would be cool. Cycling in to Binnean Shuas and soloing Ardverikie Wall and Kubla Khan is one I'm keen for, but I've also got designs on some longer links in the Cairngorms.
Life
Finish the fence and put a patio in.
Get the dog properly trained. I'm enjoying this, he's very smart so learning quickly at the moment. Training good recall is going to be important, especially as he'll be a big dog when fully grown.
Running - I'd like to do another long distance run in the hills (~40km), I'm not overly concerned whether it's an organised event, but it's sometimes easier to be motivated with a hard deadline. Something in Scotland or the Lakes would be good. I've got a couple of ideas for good independent routes (e.g. running from Loch Etive over the 7 munros back to Rannoch Moor).
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Love this thread and the 'Best of' thread on 2023, inspired me to post this year.
Climbing/exercise:
- Physio out existing injuries - particularly left shoulder and elbow tweaks
- Two strength training sessions a week
- Work out a good structure for my weekend indoor bouldering session that maximises the time I have available and builds strength effectively
- Get back into doing at least one fingerboard session a week
- Go for a first Easter Font trip with the family (and plan it so that they love it so it stays on the menu for the future)
- At least 2 boulder trips in the UK
- Consolidate on sport climbing from last year, at least 4 weekends' climbing, get back up to 7a+ RP
- Get out on the MTB at least once a month
Life:
- Move house in the summer (preferably closer to rock)
- Don't completely destroy life in process of moving house, keep wife & kids happy etc
- Publish novella, finish writing 3rd novel
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I've been pondering what I should go for this year, I think this makes a decent list:
Winter
I need to tick more Munros in winter if I want to join the SMC. Making sure I combine doing some decent routes at the same time would be great. I've got off to a reasonable start with this already. A friend gave me a little Munro record book for Xmas, so my first task is to try and remember which ones I've actually been up! If I could bag a dozen in winter conditions that would be great, and if I can also get half a dozen days winter climbing as well even better.
Sport
Getting Silk Purse finished is the obvious gap. Having a few days in Strathyre and Glen Ogle would be good too. Chain Lightning is an obvious target, but really I just want to make sure I visit.
Trad
I got very little done this year and never got my head together, so it's all to play for.
I'd love to get 3 big mountain routes done. I've not been to Creag an Dubh Loch, so something there would be good, Titan's Wall and Minus 1 are other targets.
One thing I really enjoy about living in Scotland is being able to have a big hill day and throw in some easy classics as well. I've got a few in mind, if I got one done that would be cool. Cycling in to Binnean Shuas and soloing Ardverikie Wall and Kubla Khan is one I'm keen for, but I've also got designs on some longer links in the Cairngorms.
Life
Finish the fence and put a patio in.
Get the dog properly trained. I'm enjoying this, he's very smart so learning quickly at the moment. Training good recall is going to be important, especially as he'll be a big dog when fully grown.
Running - I'd like to do another long distance run in the hills (~40km), I'm not overly concerned whether it's an organised event, but it's sometimes easier to be motivated with a hard deadline. Something in Scotland or the Lakes would be good. I've got a couple of ideas for good independent routes (e.g. running from Loch Etive over the 7 munros back to Rannoch Moor).
I forgot to add these:
Factor Two
I haven't done any episodes in ages, life got very busy, and I had a lot of other projects I've been working on.
It would be good to put out some new episodes, a minimum of 3. I've got the material for those already, and lots of ideas for others..
How you can help...
I'm happy to take pointers from people, so if you've got a story, or know of one you'd like to hear, drop me a line. I'm mainly interested in trying to tell things that are more complex than a single interview can manage, so stories with multiple perspectives, or thematic tales are welcome. Also, I'd be very happy to collaborate to produce stories. I.e. you get to interview/host, and I'll deal with production and help you script or structure it. I can supply recording gear. Send me your ideas if you're interested, even if they're really vague it's fun to chat about this stuff.
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So many things going on, hopefully I can get health issues under control and do them!
Running
Got a couple of runs goals I'd like to get done this year;
1) 1200km in the year.
2) try the Glen Clova loop a mate and i have planned. A natural loop of the horseshoe starting and finishing at the hotel is about 50km, and takes in 4 + Munros, A Corbett and a load of other hills.
3) run / walk the Milngavie to Drover's Inn part of WHW in a day (41 mi). I did the rest of it with mares last year, but missed the first bit due to limited AL.
4) Balmoral 15 miler in 2 hrs. Did 2:08:48in 2018, so it's possible.
5) PB a half; under 1:38. Possible with a decent block of training, a fast course and perfect weather.
Climbing
1) Do more routes at the wall
2) get a sport project in high 7s
3) Do some mountain routes
4) fingerboard and get on garage board at least once a week each.
5) Tick a couple of local boulder projects
Other
1) Surf more - and not just Aberdeen.
2) Get some decent powder and maybe a tour in the Alps.
3) Do some ski tours locally
4) get on MTB, especially get to Tarland.
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First quarter update
Goal 1. Rehab & rebuild
Be consistent & committed to elbow rehabilitation post surgery. I have a right elbow osteocapsulectomy due sometime in January.
I was told the success of the surgery depends greatly on my rehabilitation. It won’t repair the deterioration of my osteoarthritic elbow, but should improve range of movement. Achieved
Goal 2. Try hard when it matters most
Actually fall off on send attempts, not saying take.
Goal 3. Climb at Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert in the South Of France- near Montpellier. Get a lot of routes done.
Goal 4. Climb at least two multi pitch sport 3 pitches or more in this trip.
Goal 5. Redpoints
Largely reliant on Goal 1.
Redpoint five routes 7a and above
- [ ] Pit Viper - Deep Rake
- [ ] TBC
- [ ] TBC
- [ ] TBC
- [ ] TBC
The following two goals, if anyone is needing a belay, please consider giving me a call. Happy to meet new climbers & crags. Prompts :jab:
Goal 6. Explore the UK sports options
Climb at 2 new sports crags in the UK (outside of the Peak - Yorkshire/ Wales/ The Lakes).
Goal 7. More Peak Sport
Climb at 3 new Peak sports crags
Goal 8. Longer term health investments
Improve mobility and embed mobility & flexibility into my lifestyle. To be able to comfortably place my palms flat on floor in a standing pike.
Do a pistol squat with both legs ACHIEVED and with holding additional weight.
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- Get married. Then subsequently remain married, and generally be a good husband.
Less than two weeks into it but having a great time so far!
- Stay psyched. This is the main climbing goal isn't it, just keep enjoying it.
Waxes and wanes. Generally poor weather and lingering finger tweaks are the main annoyance I think, but on the whole it's been kind of okay. Excited for a big trip at the end of the year, and maybe some nice weekends here and there throughout the year.
- Be less injured than 2023. This should be an easy one, I hope. Ideally no injuries at all but some tweaks are bound to happen.
This damn left middle finger thing is still annoying. Not that big a deal a lot of the time but some holds aggravate it in a way that can be difficult to predict. On the upside, physio appointment next week and the rest of my body seems to be reliable thus far.
- Finish remaining Moonboard 6C+ benchmarks. Consolidating more hard stuff would be great but can't really pick a number.
Okay I figured this one wouldn't be too difficult given I only had dozen or so left, but I was pleased to get this done in January nonetheless. All the 7As might be possible depending on finger health.
- Continue visiting new-to-me areas as usual, let's say 12 to average one a month.
On track so far. Coed Dinas-ddu, Pac Man Boulders, Clifftop Boulders, Jackson Tor.
- Do some DWS, and take some actual falls. Not 15m wangers, but trying hard in a relatively calm and safe environment. Don't fuck my headgame like I did in 2023!
N/A - too early! Not even been swimming...
- Boulder on the Llŷn. Maybe make a weekend of it and revisit that little arête at Nant Gwrtheyrn?
Okay it's still early in the year, been busy planning a wedding, and the weather has been pants. I can't feel too bad about it.
- Touch some rock in another country.
See above!
- Revisit some problems I've already tried, including but not limited to:
*Louisville Lip Had a session a couple weeks into the year, incredibly marginal progress.
*Main Vein
*Rigpa Two sessions I think? Doesn't seem to aggravate my finger, and thanks to a big ladder I think I've got better beta. But still incomplete, and hate working it solo.
*Cosmic Wheels
*Brass Monkeys
*Jerry's Roof
*Awooga
*The Mentalist Was there recently, but unfortunately wet.
*Cobra Strike
*The Punk
*Harvey Oswald SDS
*Bad Moon Rising
*Suavito
*Cruella
*Silence of the Rams
*S&M
*Tierdrop
*Esoteric Blaenau projects
Seems a good year for me so far. Anything red or orange still has the potential to become green, and hopefully it all will!
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Good effort on the 6c+’s, some of those feel high 7’s to me 😂
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Wrote mine but forgot to post them. Same shit different year. In no particular order
- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list
- 5 new UK crags
- 5 7C+ and above
- 5 FAs
- 5 climbing trips/weekends
- 5 training blocks of any sort
- 5 PBs of any sort
as always making a good dent into most of these should signal a good year
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Good effort on the 6c+’s, some of those feel high 7’s to me 😂
Cheers, yeah some of them are quite mean. Not sure about high 7s though! In my experience I'd say the hardest of each grade is probably about the same difficulty as the easiest 3 grades above, which, for problems that have been deliberate selected to demonstrate a specifically nominated difficulty, seems like quite a big range!
Usual debates about grades being personal still apply of course, but a couple of them are just miles off.
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On the mini moonboard there is a lot of performative voting on grades, as the votes are not anonymous. However, the hardest 6B benchmarks are a lot harder than the easiest 7A benchmarks. For me: about two sessions for the hardest 6B BM vs three tries for the easiest 7A BM. My conclusion is that this much variability can only be explained by variation in the actuals holds (shape + position).
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The variability is explained by most of the people setting, and grading, on the moonboard being strong but perspective-deprived morons with no idea about grading whatsoever, and often little idea about board problem quality..
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Can someone who isn't Stubbs repeat my problem Crimp Armada? It took me a couple of sessions and felt harder than a number of 7As but Stubbs rinsed it and declared it 6B+ and 1 star.
Though I notice now that someone called Tim did it in November, flashed it, voted 7A 4* and said "Will Hunt is a setting genius" :lol:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CqWCJ89jzqJ/?igsh=NTZ1aG9yN3NxeTMw
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6B/+ looks about right to me, I think giving it 1 star is a bit generous though
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Stubbs rinses board climb shock!
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Stubbs rinses board climb shock!
Ha I’m awful on the moonboard! I’ve spent quite a bit of time climbing on it in the last couple of years as I think the style of problems on there has identified some weaknesses that don’t crop up so much on boards with fixed feet. These weaknesses generally revolve around generating body tension and/or momentum with your feet in weird positions, and generating tension in the shoulders on bigger or wider moves.