UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => sponsors => Topic started by: Dave D on August 28, 2014, 02:22:37 pm
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10 Facts That Make Awesome Walls Awesome!
1- We love what we do!
Our staff are employed for their friendliness, enthusiasm and customer service experience. After these important items have been assessed we'll then look at the qualifications! Time and again people tell us that our staff are an asset to the company.
2- Experience.
Over the last 15+ years we have been deeply involved in climbing walls. During this time we have learned a great deal about the climbing wall market. Seven climbing walls later and we’re still as keen as ever! Sure we can’t please everyone 100% of the time but this wont stop us from trying!
3- The Awesome Family.
Contrary to popular belief we're not a huge corporate business that has a head office with plentiful staff milling around all planning climbing wall world domination! The business is run by one person (myself) with a team of enthusiastic staff in each wall, all with the same aim of delivering a great service to our customers.
4- No membership fees.
Nothing sucks more than visiting a wall for the first time and being asked to pay an annual or extra daily membership fee for your first visit. You haven’t even tried the wall so why part with more money than you need?
5- Loyalty Card for everyone.
We don’t take this too seriously like Tesco or Boots and our Loyalty card is definitely more fun!
2nd visit- SWAG*, 5th visit- Hot Drink+SWAG, 10th visit- Awesome cake, 15th visit- Hot Drink+Awesome cake, 20th visit- 50% off AWCC Merchandise and 25th visit- A free climb.
*SWAG= Super Wonderful Awesome Gear, (mini AWCC karabiners, drinks coasters, mini magnets, stickers.)
6- Route and Problem setting.
We pride ourselves on regularly setting new routes and problems. The problem is that the bigger the centre (and ours are quite big) the longer it takes to reset everything! We aim to reset lead routes every three to four months and boulder problems every four to six weeks. Occasionally due to competitions, route setters holidays and other factors out of our control these times may be shortened or extended!
7- Free Wi-Fi.
All our centres have free Wi-Fi. This is great for surfing the net whilst resting, updating your Facebook status or just keeping in touch with the world.
8- Heating.
Some people love it, some people hate it, but at least we have the option to put it on when we need it! We use radiant heating in all our walls. This means that we can heat only the areas of our centres that need it, rather that circulating warm area around the building, and into the roof space (where it's least wanted)! If you’re really interested here's what Wiki says- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiant_heating (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiant_heating)
9- Feedback.
We love to receive feedback as this keeps us on track with what we do. Whilst we may think we offer a great service, your views may differ and we can only put them right if you let us know first hand. The best way to do this is to talk to the staff on the counter, or, if you think it needs the manager’s attention please send us an email.
10- Free water.
This is only a small one but it means a lot to have access to free water whenever you want or need it. Use one of our recyclable cups or fill your own water bottle. Ice and Lemon, now you're pushing it...
Full article from the picture- http://bit.ly/AWCCarticle (http://bit.ly/AWCCarticle)
Website- http://awesomewalls.co.uk (http://awesomewalls.co.uk)
A big day- http://bit.ly/earlyramblings (http://bit.ly/earlyramblings)
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The good bit at Awesome Walls Sheffield (ie. the steep bit up the middle) hasn't been reset since February or earlier.
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Some would see that as valuable "We give you the real route siege experience by leaving routes for periods that can be measured geologically"
I heard they are putting up a route modelled on the Oak??
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I think they need to talk to Lego about some cross over marketing opportunities....
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Free water? Awesome....
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Free water? Awesome....
Should be called Radical Walls
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Free water? Awesome....
Should be called Radical Walls
Wicked Walls. They could get Jonathan Ross to do some voice overs/adverts...
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Free water? Awesome....
Should be called Radical Walls
Wicked Walls. They could get Jonathan Ross to do some voice overs/adverts...
Free radical, wicked. Now gimme some free water..... just tap water though Garcon.
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free water, heavy.
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I am most impressed at how tame the flaming is on this particular thread.
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Some would see that as valuable "We give you the real route siege experience by leaving routes for periods that can be measured geologically"
Foundry already has that base covered.
I must say at Awesome Walls the one (or was it two?) sessions I've had there this winter the bouldering seemed to be at best averagely well set problems at a huge deserted facility devoid of atmosphere that's twice as far to drive from my house as the other two very good bouldering walls in the city. Obviously if I'd have known about the free water then I'd have lapped it up (pun intended).
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The good bit at Awesome Walls Sheffield (ie. the steep bit up the middle) hasn't been reset since February or earlier.
Some would see that as valuable "We give you the real route siege experience by leaving routes for periods that can be measured geologically"
I heard they are putting up a route modelled on the Oak??
I would be happy to set this FREE OF CHARGE if it will be kept up till February.
Will probably take up two lines with the traverses though
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Training on 1 replica lots is exactly what you shouldn't be doing at the moment IMO
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Training on 1 replica lots is exactly what you shouldn't be doing at the moment IMO
:spank:
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I heard they are putting up a route modelled on the Oak??
I would be happy to set this FREE OF CHARGE if it will be kept up till February.
"Drawn from memory"
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My main criticisms of Awesome Walls Liverpool when I used to climb there regularly was the lack of resetting and the use of inexperienced route setters. It is hard for a route setter who can only climb 6b to set routes of 7b and upwards that climb well at the grade. I used to bring my own water so never took advantage of the free water offer although I can't see this being a major USP outside of sub-Saharan Africa.
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Is the water passed by the management?
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If so, I hope the filters have been changed frequently.
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Is the water passed by the management?
Are you taking the piss?
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you're in the right urea
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Hi Folks
Always a pleasure to post on UKB :wavecry:
Yes there's a few routes on the main wall that have been up a while but the whole area will be reset for the BLCC's on 4th and 5th October (2014 before anyone says anything!).
I know what I'm in for when posting on here and I'm sure if you had any serious gripes you'd let me know on a PM or at daved@awesomewalls.co.uk
Cheers for the comments, good or bad.
Dave D
Awesome Walls (the only wall sponsoring UKB at the mo!)
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that's a very mature and professional post there
it'll confuse the locals
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I always drive past AW liverpool and go to the hanger but the attitude of their staff and their playing shit music at what is to me an excesive volume puts me off, what's the music policy at Awesome Walls?
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At Stockport, the music is whatever the kids behind the desk like. They do, however, turn it down if requested. I don't think you'll ever please everyone music wise and I generally zone out when climbing anyway.
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I've always thought the easiest policy is to play The Real Thing soundtrack on loop. Clearly anybody who would ever complain about that is a fool. :dance1:
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Hmmm, I'd crush then have an uncontrollable urge to..... Party in Paris!
You could add the Stick It soundtrackin there as well...
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My view is playing 'Urban' music with the suggestive lyrics when you're running kids sessions / weekend mornings really isn't on, you shouldn't need to raise this, it should be blindingly obvious.
Of course there's the risk that the social mores in liverpool and very differnt and the staff oblivious.
the last experience has really put me off going back which is a shame as the wall and setting is one of the best.
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My view is playing 'Urban' music with the suggestive lyrics when you're running kids sessions / weekend mornings really isn't on, you shouldn't need to raise this, it should be blindingly obvious.
Of course there's the risk that the social mores in liverpool and very differnt and the staff oblivious.
the last experience has really put me off going back which is a shame as the wall and setting is one of the best.
I totally agree and this shouldn't be happening and I'm quite sure it doesn't happen all the time. Either way I'll be reiterating it to the staff.
Thanks,
Dave D.
AWCC
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They built a good board at AW Sheffield, really good in fact (big, good angle, good matting). Then some total idiots came over from another AW and threw a load of shit holds willy-nilly over it (compare good holds thoughtfully planned out at eg. the Works, the Depot(s), the Foundry). The result? Nobody uses it, and I mean nobody.
Edited cos I forgot a close bracket.
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I mention it not purely to bitch, and because I found the '10 things...' post irritating, but because its a shame. There really is no reason why it shouldn't have been the best wall in Sheffield, but instead a botch job made it shit and redundant. You cant cut corners for these sorts of things.
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I have to say, the bouldering sets I have experienced at AW Sheff weren't great, but the route quality at the 7a and just above region seemed much better though.
The staff were also polite and fairly helpful.
It is a touch dear on the old wallet though for a student, when compared to other walls charging £6 all the time.
Its difficult to get over before 5 on a weekday, and more so when having to organise going with someone.
The training board thing did seem a bit unfortunate to. Fortunately something that could be fixed though.
A good wall otherwise.
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I quite like the music at AW logport. Not overly a fan of the sauna like conditions in the bouldering wall. Always remember your shorts! and there really should be more than 2 problems that aren't essentially jug hauls on each of the sections on the higher left hand side - not really enough to keep you going back for more than a couple of sessions tbh but I guess I might not be their target audience (balding fat man).
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Salt beef, when were you last down? The steep set this time is quite good and the last set (by Alex Fry) were really good. (Point for Dave, get Alex to set more often!)
Despite the slight generic nature of Ian and Jamie's deep lock and rock over style of problems it's still by far the best wall in Manchester.
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yes, agreed. I really like the bouldering at stockport and find the problem generally very good particulary when set by Jamie and Ian.
Main problem at Stockport is the heat, the fans sort of help a little bit but I just don't go in the summer because its too hot (especially when I can't go tops off any more cos of my large belly)
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My gripe with AW Sheffield is the lack of easy bouldering. Taken a few first timers climbing and they enjoy the routes at aw but prefer the works for bouldering because they can actually do stuff. The problem isn't setting but angle of walls. Everything is too steep for beginners.
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I can't remember! :w00t: I think apart from one session at rock over about a fortnight ago I haven't had to climb inside since May! I like vickers setting too but it seems to be better at other venues than logport. That place is hotter than the sun.
My gripe with AW Sheffield is the lack of easy bouldering.
therein lies the rub. Beginners want loads of easy climbing, others want more hard problems. you can't please everyone and you can end up pleasing no one.
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yes, agreed. I really like the bouldering at stockport and find the problem generally very good particulary when set by Jamie and Ian.
Main problem at Stockport is the heat, the fans sort of help a little bit but I just don't go in the summer because its too hot (especially when I can't go tops off any more cos of my large belly)
Totally agree -
For me its not so much the heat - its the lack of fresh air circulation.. it gets sooooo stuffy in there and if you put the huge fans on (thanks for having them there) you can't hear anything but fans (not even the person next to you - of course some may think this a good thing - and if sloper doesnt like the tunes and they won't play any G&S he can always wack the fans on!).
Even in winter its a bit grim as its just static dusty air...
Puerto de la Stock wall is well run - friendly staff and great value (£4 lunchtimes and £ boulder only at peak times). I don't like walls - but its just somehow better set than rockover... (sorry rockover folks..).
Never been to AWSheff...
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My main criticisms of Awesome Walls Liverpool when I used to climb there regularly was the lack of resetting and the use of inexperienced route setters. It is hard for a route setter who can only climb 6b to set routes of 7b and upwards that climb well at the grade.
Agreed. There was some abysmal setting at that place; I've not climbed at AW Sheffield yet, partly for that reason, and i have heard from a couple of people that the setting is poor there. Admittedly, 'good' setting isn't entirely objective.
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i have been going to AW stoke for the last 6 months or so and i find the setting to be the best i have climbed on inside, but fuck me its hot in the summer.
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What constitutes "good" setting?
I get that it's going to be a personal feeling about a problem, but how would you guys describe it?
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What constitutes "good" setting?
I get that it's going to be a personal feeling about a problem, but how would you guys describe it?
1. Pleasurable/Interesting (as in the moves feel good and interesting)
2. Challenging - you have to think about how to do a problem (even the easy ones) ie its not just an obvious path of jugs/crimps etc..
3. Sensible - no (not too many) daft dyno's or 7C problems that only apes can reach, no nasty genital threatening moves above volumes/large sticky outy jugs, not too many problems in one spot
4. Gradient - as in smoothish gradients between problems of a grade. Nothing more infuriating than being able to do all the V5's and get shut down on ALL the V6's... and have to go home. When someone sets a set at a grade - make some easier, some harder. Best curcuits at the Depot (for example) are where they have 20 odd problems (pinks I seem to remember) that start at V1 and go up to V7 etc... by the end (starting from 1-20 etc..). Really good way to warm up progressively and like an interesting Font circuit.
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Agreed, different sorts of problems and a range of grades make a circuit interesting, quality is really about the experience of the setter mainly in terms of how much climbing they've done outdoors, if they've only had a few years experience then their palette is likely to be limited and consequently so will their setting. In my view you need people setting who've climbed extensively on all sorts of rock at all sorts of grades for a good while. A young stud who goes from plastic to 7b+ and then a year later is setting routes will almost certainly be poor.
Ohh and let's have some footholds that aren't >70 cm from the ground as a starter that really fucks me off.
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AW Stoke is crying out for a second board in the training area upstairs.
The jugs and weird 'systems' board thing to the left of the moonboard are entirely pointless and never get used. We've been mithering Stu about it for months/years now but it seems to be falling on deaf ears.
Wouldn't take much effort to get it sorted and ease the traffic on the moonboard in the evenings.
:please:
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It's always an eye opener posting on UKB :o
I guess the main thing is we're (I'm) openly out there asking for comments and feed-back on here, UKC, Facebook, Twitter and via emails.
I'll be looking at all the comments soon with the relevant centre managers and we'll see what can be done.
Whilst it is one person that runs AWCC (myself :wave:) I do listen and take advice from many people.
Thanks again for all your feedback.
Dave D
AWCC
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For what it's worth, I reckon all this discussion has made me a lot more interested in checking out Awesome Walls than the original advert did!
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What constitutes "good" setting?
I get that it's going to be a personal feeling about a problem, but how would you guys describe it?
1. Pleasurable/Interesting (as in the moves feel good and interesting)
2. Challenging - you have to think about how to do a problem (even the easy ones) ie its not just an obvious path of jugs/crimps etc..
3. Sensible - no (not too many) daft dyno's or 7C problems that only apes can reach, no nasty genital threatening moves above volumes/large sticky outy jugs, not too many problems in one spot
4. Gradient - as in smoothish gradients between problems of a grade. Nothing more infuriating than being able to do all the V5's and get shut down on ALL the V6's... and have to go home. When someone sets a set at a grade - make some easier, some harder. Best curcuits at the Depot (for example) are where they have 20 odd problems (pinks I seem to remember) that start at V1 and go up to V7 etc... by the end (starting from 1-20 etc..). Really good way to warm up progressively and like an interesting Font circuit.
5. Not totally morpho either - I especially like opnes when there is more than one way to do it, based on your height / strengths / weaknesses.
6. (Kind of a subset of 1 & 3) not easy apart from one hard move. Needs to be something you can work on and whittle away at, rather than a can do / will never do move.
7. Good useable holds. Nothing that is going to harm you through working at it; no over rough textured holds, no over sharp holds.
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Kids problems in the main bouldering area.
My kids can easily do all the climbing on the kids boulders at Stockport but there is very little they can get their teeth into in the main bouldering area. If there could be a modest range of kids problems set it would really be good. It would make them keener to visit the wall and if I knew they would be kept busy I could have a bouldering session along side them, but as I knew they will run out of options in 10 minutes I have to take them roped climbing, so I don't climb myself and don't therefore pay for myself.
I don't think it would add loads to the business at peak times as I think most kids go on a weekend daytime, when it is generally less busy than a week day evening.
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What constitutes "good" setting?
I get that it's going to be a personal feeling about a problem, but how would you guys describe it?
1. Pleasurable/Interesting (as in the moves feel good and interesting)
2. Challenging - you have to think about how to do a problem (even the easy ones) ie its not just an obvious path of jugs/crimps etc..
3. Sensible - no (not too many) daft dyno's or 7C problems that only apes can reach, no nasty genital threatening moves above volumes/large sticky outy jugs, not too many problems in one spot
4. Gradient - as in smoothish gradients between problems of a grade. Nothing more infuriating than being able to do all the V5's and get shut down on ALL the V6's... and have to go home. When someone sets a set at a grade - make some easier, some harder. Best curcuits at the Depot (for example) are where they have 20 odd problems (pinks I seem to remember) that start at V1 and go up to V7 etc... by the end (starting from 1-20 etc..). Really good way to warm up progressively and like an interesting Font circuit.
5. Not totally morpho either - I especially like opnes when there is more than one way to do it, based on your height / strengths / weaknesses.
6. (Kind of a subset of 1 & 3) not easy apart from one hard move. Needs to be something you can work on and whittle away at, rather than a can do / will never do move.
7. Good useable holds. Nothing that is going to harm you through working at it; no over rough textured holds, no over sharp holds.
yes to all the above, plus:
8. Subset of 3: avoiding overlaps between juggy easier stuff and harder circuit problems. Pinging off a marginal screw-on on a V7 and twatting a jug from one of the V0s is painful and annoying, snagging a toe or heel and flipping over in the air on the way down on a slab / vert is downright terrifying.
9. Subset of 7. Holds that will still be still be climbable after the first night of use. Certain manufacturers' slopers seem to clag up really quickly and can never be cleaned up.
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7. Good useable holds. Nothing that is going to harm you through working at it; no over rough textured holds, no over sharp holds.
This, this, and more this. And if in doubt, this again.
All good suggestions though.
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Kids problems in the main bouldering area.
My kids can easily do all the climbing on the kids boulders at Stockport but there is very little they can get their teeth into in the main bouldering area. If there could be a modest range of kids problems set it would really be good. It would make them keener to visit the wall and if I knew they would be kept busy I could have a bouldering session along side them, but as I knew they will run out of options in 10 minutes I have to take them roped climbing, so I don't climb myself and don't therefore pay for myself.
I don't think it would add loads to the business at peak times as I think most kids go on a weekend daytime, when it is generally less busy than a week day evening.
Not being able to do things alongside my kids, was a major motivation in opening our own centre. Not the only one, by any means, but a big one.
At 7 and 9, the two eldest are able to cope in the V2-3 range as long as there's no excessive reach that can't be dyno'd through. Generally the two 5 year olds can get on the VB-1 problems if they're a sit start, otherwise it's rainbowing.
We set kids problems between the adult blocs. I spent a very boring day marking black spots on all the kids holds to differentiate them.
It gives the kids the option of using a spotty to reach through on an adult problem too.
You can't win though.
The mix of kids and adults leads to it's own issues...
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Holds that will still be still be climbable after the first night of use. Certain manufacturers' slopers seem to clag up really quickly and can never be cleaned up.
Or have a badly produced texture that goes glassy within days of the hold being first used. Some manufacturers can get it spot on, others should be able to too.
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Holds that will still be still be climbable after the first night of use. Certain manufacturers' slopers seem to clag up really quickly and can never be cleaned up.
Or have a badly produced texture that goes glassy within days of the hold being first used. Some manufacturers can get it spot on, others should be able to too.
Or have holds that are agonisingly sharp the first times they are used.. (I'm looking at you Core...)
ALSO... a personal plea..
NO SANDTEX ON THE WALLS. Please - I just hate it...
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sharpness was mentioned earlier. No need.
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To be fair I think most brands of hold are agonising when new and need bedding in. Those which aren't are probably the ones that turn to glass after week 1.
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Axis and Lapis have been good from pretty much new in my experiences at Ratho. Partly why I've started driving 45 mins to boulder there instead of 5 mins to TCA. Simply more effective training when I run out of power rather than skin.
My loathing for Holdz is well known but needless to say I'd rather spend 2 hours deadhanging on one Axis hold than do one problem on Holdz even if Jacky Godoffe had set it.
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sharpness was mentioned earlier. No need.
One repeat and you cut me down...
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Sorry if I was(n't) blunt.
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Sorry if I was(n't) blunt.
No problem. This conversation... It's been a slice.
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NO SANDTEX ON THE WALLS. Please - I just hate it...
+1
- trashes boots super quick (not mine of course, I have surgical precision-esqe footwork :whistle: )
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Just to add a bit of balance to this thread (at the risk of being shot down), I think the route setting at Awesome Sheffield is excellent, as do my mates and lots of other folk I've spoken to there...
...and I have climbed on enough walls to appreciate good route setting, and also recognise the mundane when I have the misfortune to encounter it.
Neil
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NO SANDTEX ON THE WALLS. Please - I just hate it...
+1
- trashes boots super quick (not mine of course, I have surgical precision-esqe footwork :whistle: )
to be fair to Dave. I remember he held a poll (probably on fb) regarding this and the majority of people wanted sandtex by some margin. More like real rock init. :shrug:
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My gripe with AW Sheffield is the lack of easy bouldering.
therein lies the rub. Beginners want loads of easy climbing, others want more hard problems. you can't please everyone and you can end up pleasing no one.
With the space they have at Sheffield I think they could please everyone.
One slab would be nice.
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Just to add a bit of balance to this thread
Well, with regard to AW Stockport, I think the responses have been positive overall. For boulderinjg, it’s by far the best wall in Mancsheter. Rockover should beat it hands down (great comp wall, loads of space, training area) but it doesn’t, it’s rubbish in comparison.
However, when people are given a forum in which to moan/suggest changes, they will, which maybe gives an overall negative impression. Dave did a poll on Facebook about improvements to Stockport and, like this thread, everyone wants something different.
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NO SANDTEX ON THE WALLS. Please - I just hate it...
+1
- trashes boots super quick (not mine of course, I have surgical precision-esqe footwork :whistle: )
I always get grazes on wrists, elbows, knuckles too (i know, diddums). Guess it's what I get for being a bit slappy. I call it having ninja hands.
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AW Stoke is crying out for a second board in the training area upstairs.
The jugs and weird 'systems' board thing to the left of the moonboard are entirely pointless and never get used. We've been mithering Stu about it for months/years now but it seems to be falling on deaf ears.
Wouldn't take much effort to get it sorted and ease the traffic on the moonboard in the evenings.
:please:
I second this post as countless times I have questioned the jug board,"crack thing" and tiny systems board (not even an arm length wide) and asked if the moon board could be extended even offering to start up a fund bucket for the wood if the wall couldn't afford it. I know a lot of people staff included at stoke have been asking pestering and complaining about this for years but it does feel that the free water is more important than listening to customer feed back
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Axis and Lapis have been good from pretty much new in my experiences at Ratho. Partly why I've started driving 45 mins to boulder there instead of 5 mins to TCA. Simply more effective training when I run out of power rather than skin.
My loathing for Holdz is well known but needless to say I'd rather spend 2 hours deadhanging on one Axis hold than do one problem on Holdz even if Jacky Godoffe had set it.
Agree, there's simply no excue for making painfall holds and no excuse x10 3 for buying them
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Climb at AW stoke on average 2-3 times a week.
Observations;
The centre is successful, primarily because your fortunate enough to have 2 very good route setters, IMO they keep the place a float I suspect this is a point that is overlooked or taken for granted.
Downstairs:
Problem: Too many aretes seriously impact the options available to setters. Routes become similar in there nature because invariably there is an arete to hand. Set after set
Proposal: Board out internal corners. Even a doing 1 or 2 corners would create much more face climbing.
|
_____|
| change this
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____| |
____|
| / to this. (sorry about the ascii)
| /
____|/
Upstairs: As previously mentioned the systems board doesn't work because its only 700mm wide. Take it down, match the moon board angle. You would make lots of regulars happier customers.
The centre has potential and your lucky to have excellent staff, it's unfortunately let down by an inefficient use of space, most of which can be easily rectified.
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Boulder UK, amazing on all points. That is all
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Axis and Lapis have been good from pretty much new in my experiences at Ratho. Partly why I've started driving 45 mins to boulder there instead of 5 mins to TCA. Simply more effective training when I run out of power rather than skin.
Fiend, you are my new best friend. If you could just plug my other hold brands too I'll have your children*
*Subject to CRB check and T&Cs. Prize may be swapped for a Lapis Brush at discrection of organisers.....
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Axis and Lapis have been good from pretty much new in my experiences at Ratho. Partly why I've started driving 45 mins to boulder there instead of 5 mins to TCA. Simply more effective training when I run out of power rather than skin.
Fiend, you are my new best friend. If you could just plug my other hold brands too I'll have your children*
*Subject to CRB check and T&Cs. Prize may be swapped for a Lapis Brush at discrection of organisers.....
You can mail me your catalogues and trade prices, I'll PM you.
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Can I just have the Lapis Brush instead? ;)
It was a very genuine comment....meet me at a wall and I will waffle on about those holds in way that make the Fussies from The Thing seemk interesting and non-geeky...
The others I rate are some of the Volx holds and of course Bleaustone.
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The others I rate are some of the Volx holds and of course Bleaustone.
Nice try but I'm only responsible for one of them :-) Have to agree with you on Volx though, even though I don't sell them, they do some great holds.