11

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by crimpinainteasy on Yesterday at 05:29:15 pm »

If anything to me it feels like with grit technique is 90% of the difficulty, a lot of stuff is tekkers and then feels piss when you refine it so much you flow on the send go.

I used to think that, but I was using power more than I thought. Since passing 40 my technique genuinely seems to be still improving, but my power is waning distressingly fast, as evidenced by problems like Brad Pit slipping from my repertoire. Sad times.

I do remember a series of training articles in OTE in the mid-nineties, in which the jist was that by the secret to all climbing was getting stronger. Not only would the moves get easier, you'd also gain stamina as who gets pumped on easy moves? At the time I assumed 'stronger' was a synonym for 'better', but in hindsight I realised they just meant stronger.

Since the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale was invented last week, I was referring the decades-old established scale

   

I guess as someone else itt already said technique and strength are deeply intertwined. Being able to keep maximal weight on your feet requires a strong posterial chain, in addition to good balance and spacial awareness. Equally, even climbing on a steep board requires good technique and maintaining maximum body tension in order to reach the highest grades.

12

equipment / Re: Semi-static / LSK recommendations

« Last post by mrjonathanr on Yesterday at 05:18:05 pm »

The 9mm idea doesn't sound so appealing now...

although these look quite good....
https://starlessriver.com/shop/gleistein-geostatic-9mm-100m-length/

as do these...
https://www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/en/petzl-club-10-mm-rope/135970307/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=2573029&country=uk&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwi_exBhA8EiwA_kU1MnHfhdsnx1MajskG4DyE9mcVJKTi7XUFvdzmrtI0WGKDw1Fha6kgFxoC1YIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

13

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Wellsy on Yesterday at 05:14:47 pm »

I reckon recently indoor to outdoors would be accurate yeah

I'll say that it's a sufficiently prevalent view that for a while that's what I thought it was because that's what people told me it was

("That's stupid" yes I know)

14

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Fultonius on Yesterday at 05:09:16 pm »

Without making a political analogy, being larger and more active doesn’t make something any more right 😆

Agreed! I guess what I was meaning was that even though folks in here might not come across it much, doesn't mean it's just a tiny subgroup - it might be 80% of the recent indoor to outdoor crowd? (not saying that's you Wellsy, just an example).

And the point being, it's maybe significant enough that it could start to sway the general opinion. (move the overton window, to use another political analogy).

These people will still be voting on grades on UKC etc....

15

equipment / Re: Semi-static / LSK recommendations

« Last post by Fultonius on Yesterday at 05:05:59 pm »

 

I’m not too proud to admit I was shitting bricks at the top of grey wall. The ground is so far away you can barely tell if the rope reaches.

Climbing Spit In Paradise was totally chill compared the abseil! It was long enough go through about 4 district  phases of fear.

16

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Wellsy on Yesterday at 04:47:36 pm »

I'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.

Of the hundreds of years of collective bouldering experience in here, I don't think you’ll find a single person who would support this view. If you think it’s not rare then I’d suggest it must be in a subset of folk you climb with.

I suspect the subset that Wellsy climbs with is both larger and more active than the knowledgeable old grumblies might expect. I and I would suspect there's perhaps less intermixing too...

Different Venn's, innit.?

I climb with a lot of people of different levels and experiences and it appears to be a random strain that pops up in various people. I don't really climb with people who overlap with your UKB types, although some people I climb with are mega psyched lifers (just of a very different strain)

Many people I know find bouldering grades very frustrating, as an observation, for various reasons. I don't necessarily agree with that mind you.

17

news / Re: Aurora

« Last post by SA Chris on Yesterday at 04:01:16 pm »

Space Weather Live app is worth getting of you want to track activity. There is a big spike forecast for "Saturday" not sure if it will be Sat morning or Sat night though. Moon is crescent, which is good though, so will be dark, but we are getting close to not having much proper darkness (more the further south you are I think though), but if it does hit KP8 as forecast, sky stays clear and Bz component of the IMF flips to South (It's Northerly right now) then there could be a good display, need a decent camera or camera phone set up to "see" the best of it though.

Bon Chance!

18

news / Re: Aurora

« Last post by CrimpyMcCrimpface on Yesterday at 03:43:31 pm »

Various news outlets reporting that this weekend will be good for Aurora spotting due to increased solar storms. The Aurorawatch UK website seems to report no significant activity. Anyone have any insight? How likely is it that one could actually spot the northern lights at this time of year? Is it worth trying?

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by teestub on Yesterday at 03:37:23 pm »

Without making a political analogy, being larger and more active doesn’t make something any more right 😆

20

equipment / Re: Semi-static / LSK recommendations

« Last post by Johnny Brown on Yesterday at 03:32:47 pm »

I’m not too proud to admit I was shitting bricks at the top of grey wall. The ground is so far away you can barely tell if the rope reaches.