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the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: SA Chris on December 18, 2006, 12:52:29 pm

Title: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 18, 2006, 12:52:29 pm
Like to hear some opinion here, especially from the better surfers.

Went out yesterday afternoon in Aberdeen. Left it pretty late so tide could go below groynes, so we were a bit pushed for time. It was a small wave, only 1-2 ft on sets or so, but nice and clean and with one definite peak where it was breaking, nowhere else on the beach really worthwhile.  I was on my 7ft 6" minimal. A couple of guys turned up with big ass Bics, about 8ft plus and paddled to just beyond where the waves were breaking for me, so they could catch them earlier. They then proceeded to catch every good wave in the set between them, and go right on every wave right across my path, so I was often having to pull back. They would then paddle straight back to the peak again and sit and wait for the next set I know this is fair enough asit is part of the great pecking order, rules of the surf and all that and I wouldn't dream of dropping in, but when smaller waves came in that looked to me like they would break further in and I could catch them, they paddled for them anyway, even though it was pretty clear (to me anyway) that they wouldn't make it, and by this time I worked this out I had missed the wave too, but what do you do? Do you say anything, or let it go? If I say anything as soon as I open my mouth it's pretty apparent I am not really "local" even though I have surfed Aberdeen regularly for the last 2 1/2 years?

As it happened, still had a pretty good session, just left feeling a bit annoyed, so not really pissed off or anything, just unsure of where you stand on these matters.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on December 18, 2006, 03:02:18 pm
hmmm...

as a longboarder, i would have sit with my 9'2" even further behind... ;)

seriously, i think everybody should let go the first sets after paddling back on the peak after a surfed wave. and people should not paddle for everything that comes in, regardless of the chances to really get the wave.
too often these days, like in many many aspects of our lives (work, car, dresses, house, etc), people only care about QUANTITY. the biggest cars, houses, more expensive dresses, shoes, sunglasses, instead of the feelings behind all that goods. so its not how many waves you catch, but how you ride them, and even more how much fun you have riding them, regardless of technique.
its the loss of the dream like attitude, of feelings, of poetry, if you sit on the peak just thinking about catching one after another while clearly other surfers could have their share.

i think that something could be politely said.
last spring, i found myself in the opposite role. i got in the water, and was feeling very very good. just one second after i was in, a bigger set came, and since i was the only one in the right spot, i turned and catched the wave. then it got bigger, and i dont know why but i was the only one sitting further out, catching the bigger waves. at one moment, i turned again for one smaller wave, and one man said "cmon leave this for us" and i understood i was being too selfish. so i still sat there catching the biggest waves, but only those ones, nothing else.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on December 19, 2006, 04:54:41 pm
you definately should of spoken up and make them aware of errors. maybe they weren't even aware of being pricks..
but this is a world wide problem when the waves are small and when mal riders can sit further out. if they continue to do it, just paddle directly under [infront of] them to get a wave. if you drop in you could fall and then get cleaved by their great big fin or you could ding your board on their rock hard boat...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on December 19, 2006, 06:59:37 pm
hmmm...


seriously, i think everybody should let go the first sets after paddling back on the peak after a surfed wave. and people should not paddle for everything that comes in, regardless of the chances to really get the wave.
too often these days, like in many many aspects of our lives (work, car, dresses, house, etc), people only care about QUANTITY. the biggest cars, houses, more expensive dresses, shoes, sunglasses, instead of the feelings behind all that goods. so its not how many waves you catch, but how you ride them, and even more how much fun you have riding them, regardless of technique.
its the loss of the dream like attitude, of feelings, of poetry, if you sit on the peak just thinking about catching one after another while clearly other surfers could have their share.


 dream, dream,dream dream.   :whistle:

i think this nirvana you dream of can be found at planet reebok...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 19, 2006, 07:09:33 pm
Like Oldfella says, they might not have known it was a problem.  However, you should have said something or paddled for a few that you knew they werent going to make, you could always pull out/kick out if they did manage it.  Alternatively they might have been even more short sighted than you and thought you were a seal or something...

The 'unwritten' rules actually dictate that you don't paddle straight back to the peak but idle on the inside for a while until it's your 'turn' again - In my experience this only works when you've got a smallish crew of experienced surfers/mates (unless they are called Pete or Jason) with the quality vs quantity good attitude that Nibs refers to in the water though... it doesn't do any harm to point this out from time to time though.

However, in a couple of places where I've surfed when it's been smallish, safe and very busy (Hawaii Sth Shore and Huntington Pier) you get loads of people paddling for waves but if you have priority you just shout and they all kick out. At first I was thinking 'fuckin dropping in bastards' but then realised it means that every wave gets ridden by someone and nothing goes to waste - a bit wierd to get used too.

Try paddling around a bit - you'll be surprised how many people just 'teabag' sitting in the same spot - another good trick is to start paddling fast outside when a set approaches with a serious expression as if it's a big one. 9 out of 10 times the rest of the sheep will follow you and then be too far outside, in the meantime you've turned around and got back in position for the best waves :-)

I forgot one minor detail... they were riding Bic's.. fuck 'em - you should have paddled over with a really mean expression and said 'Get the fuck out of the water you fucking cunts... my mate is about to torch your car... never come back here again'.




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on December 19, 2006, 08:21:49 pm
teabagging, that's mine!!! plagerist......

i have many tricks to ensure that i get the good waves, but there is no chance i'll tell you.
but maybe if we meet up for a surf, that includes you! 'falling quiver' you can 'findout' what these tricks are.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 20, 2006, 09:39:00 am

The 'unwritten' rules actually dictate that you don't paddle straight back to the peak but idle on the inside for a while until it's your 'turn' again

That was what I always thought. I dont think these guys weren't unaware of what they were doing; they seems pretty competent and I got the idea that they wouldn't normally be on the board they were on, but for the wave being so small. Also they avoided eye contact a couple of times when they paddled past, so I got the feeling they knew they were in the wrong.

Quote
I forgot one minor detail... they were riding Bic's.. fuck 'em - you should have paddled over with a really mean expression and said 'Get the fuck out of the water you fucking cunts... my mate is about to torch your car... never come back here again'.

Good point.

Oh well, Saturday is looking to be superb for the Moray coast on Saturday. Hopefully the point will be working.




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 20, 2006, 09:41:29 am
but maybe if we meet up for a surf, that includes you! 'falling quiver' you can 'findout' what these tricks are.

I have no idea what you are talking about, but be keen to meet up; anywhere in Scotland or Northumberland if the conditions are good. Could even get you and FD out on snowboards if it's good up here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on December 24, 2006, 03:01:42 pm
ive got a bic :oops:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on January 02, 2007, 05:08:55 pm
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.

(http://www.charlieisland.it/Immagini2/capodanno-200624.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 03, 2007, 08:41:06 am
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.

Nice... it's been really stormy in the West over the Christmas period with lots of swell and lots of wind - most sheltered spots have been up and working and I bet the SW has been really good.  I've not made it to the coast yet but am heading over Yorkshire way on Friday as it looks good for the day & I have a new board to get wet..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2007, 10:03:49 am
very good way to end the year.
clean.
offshore.
4 people out.
three hours session with no booties.

We managed a good end to the year on Saturday too. Thursday night's storm brought some good solid 3-4ft swell into stonehaven, nice and sunny dozen or so folk in. Offshore got a bit too strong for a while, but not bad.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2007, 11:02:58 am
I've not made it to the coast yet but am heading over Yorkshire way on Friday as it looks good for the day & I have a new board to get wet..

It does indeed. Might try and get a lunchtime session at stonehaven and tick one of my new years' ambitions.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 06, 2007, 07:59:39 pm
now thats unfair chris altough technically im karma zero as you have plussed me and minussed me.  my point was that you were asking for a bit more consideration in the water and then falling down comes out with that tripe. hardly tolerant. and what can i say - it was cheap and i live 2 1/2 hours from anything like a break.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 07, 2007, 10:16:06 am
Sorry clm my comment about Bic boards was tongue in cheek (coming at the end of a serious post I thought it was  obvious but I guess I should use smileys more often) Anyone can ride anything (including body boards, canoes and goatboats) in my opinion as long as they are behaving respectfully and don't bring an attitude into the water..

Friday was good.. I took my brother in law for his second ever session.  We had Scarborough North Bay in the morning, 2-3ft and clean and then the Pumphouse reef to ourselves at Cayton Bay in the afternoon at about 3-4ft and really, really nicely lined up.  I was riding a new board for the first time, a 6'3 Quad with Pavel speedialer fins, very fast and very loose and great fun.

I was surprised about how warm the water was in comparison with other East Coast January surfs I've had over the years.  The result of having no winter yet I suppose...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 12, 2007, 04:07:37 pm
Been real bad down here, before christmas was fully on. will post some longboard pictures soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2007, 05:32:23 pm
now thats unfair chris altough technically im karma zero as you have plussed me and minussed me.  my point was that you were asking for a bit more consideration in the water and then falling down comes out with that tripe. hardly tolerant. and what can i say - it was cheap and i live 2 1/2 hours from anything like a break.

Sorry, Was meant tongue in cheek too, to counteract plussing. Thought you would see the funny side of it.

Swell was too small to have any effect on Stonehaven, never got in.

Not been in the water since since the 30th, when the water was pretty warm, but strong winds stopped it from being too comfortable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 22, 2007, 06:17:37 pm
aaaah, its spiralling out of control...now where is that tongue in cheek emoticon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on January 22, 2007, 07:48:16 pm
what the fuck's a Bic???

i have no idea how to surf....... god i wish i did... body boardin in brittany last yr was soooooo good...family holiday but with fun for the parents, gonna go again for sure! The surfers told me it was 3 ft clean with a real long swell - whateveer that means - I just cant afford the time for another condition dependant sport... i really missed this surfin thing in my youth and i doubt i'll ever be able to invest the time to learn now... must buy a lottery ticket!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 22, 2007, 08:56:31 pm
Getting lots of experience down here, just have to stop cracking the locals with my keanu impression,
"im fuking surfing..."
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 22, 2007, 11:26:49 pm
what the fuck's a Bic???

Plastic type 'short' longboard, pretty indestructible, reasonable easy to stand on, quite cheap, hence gets a bad reputation for being a punters board. And yes they do appear to be made by the same company who make the biros.  ::)

(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/products/bic/bic73_lge.jpg)

http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/cgi-bin/miva?wcs/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=S
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 23, 2007, 12:42:07 am
And razors, cutting it fine time... going to Russells weding in Barbados, ohh.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2007, 09:01:15 am
i really missed this surfin thing in my youth and i doubt i'll ever be able to invest the time to learn now...

I did too, only moved up from sponging in my mid 20s, but reckon I'll be surfing long after I've stopped climbing. Bit like Yvonne Chouinard, only less honed and rich

(http://ec2.images-amazon.com/images/P/0143037838.01._AA240_SCLZZZZZZZ_V61147956_.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 23, 2007, 12:21:12 pm
And razors, cutting it fine time... going to Russells weding in Barbados, ohh.

When are you there?  Me and Mrs FD are off there for the first two weeks in March.. it's our third trip to the Island now and have got very familiar with the place.  I've surfed all the known breaks now, know some of the locals and have a good map marked up with access details that I can get to you as some of the spots are hard to find if you aren't with someone who can direct you.

On the Atlantic side:

It's often windy and onshore but the waves are stil great because the reefs are so well defined.

- Soup Bowls is pretty heavy right hander when over 4-5 ft and at low tide, rippy, shallow and full of Urchins - take some booties, lots of sun lotion and some courage.

- High Rocks and Parlours are a bit more forgiving right handers but still powerful - get used to long hold-downs.

- Tent Bay is a bit of gnarly Left with rocks - not surfed very often but OK once you figure out the lineup.

On the Caribean Side:

- Duppies is a long way out to see (1/2 mile+) and sharky - I've only surfed it once and probably won't go back.

- Maycocks - A great spot, nice and sheltered and sandy/reef bottom, very relaxing and pleasant.

Further down you need a good North Swell for any of the spots to work:

- ?? - Really great right and short left off a nice beach with cocktails..
- Tropicana's - A fast hollow left, I got some great barrels here but it's super shallow and has fire coral which really does burn.
- Sandy Lane - Nice easy reef/sand break, can get a bit crowded.

On the South East side:

- Freights - A great long easy left hander, great for longboarding.
- South Point - Ditto... can get a bit windy.

PM me and I'll scan you the map; you'll have a great trip if you get good waves.  The Bajans are really great people and the atmosphere is fantastic...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 23, 2007, 10:40:40 pm
Going out after valintines day, kind of with all the Newquay nutters, so its proberbly party party, keen to scope out some bouldering, then hopefully of to Shri Lanka, you know any climbing around Barbie... only going for three weeks, so could possibly meet up? you are welcome to come down here and hook up... stay tuned to us would be good to see you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 23, 2007, 10:43:24 pm
PS, my chicks been here 19 times, and the winter family are looking after us so should be well looked after...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 24, 2007, 04:49:15 pm

Plastic type 'short' longboard, pretty indestructible, reasonable easy to stand on, quite cheap, hence gets a bad reputation for being a punters board.

Without generalising, as I am sure there are some competent Bic riders, but the fact that they are indestructable is a good reason why they get a bit of a bad reputation. They are often ridden by less competent surfers ( I'm loathe to use the word punter) who occasionally bail the board when paddling out, drop in, or generally get in the way, often resulting in more chance of injury or damage to conventional boards, due to their heavier and more robust nature.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 24, 2007, 06:42:49 pm
PS, my chicks been here 19 times, and the winter family are looking after us so should be well looked after...

I've bumped into Russel, his brother and a couple of the Irish mates out there a couple of years back..

Your chick must be wadded if she's been out there 19 times!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 25, 2007, 05:37:55 pm
Nah, just old, ha ha. They all go out there on trade, business. having trouble booking for the wedding, who have you booked with? belive its the cricket putting up the prices, will be keen to meet up...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on January 27, 2007, 11:21:13 am
very nice session yesterday, a couple of feet, super clean, and two hours in the water with no booties. (one finger turned very white, though). i have to say that the money i invested in the new board is some of the best spent money in my life. it turns and speeds, and makes me happy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on January 28, 2007, 06:02:50 am
No self respecting surfer would still ride a Bic, fair play if you are learning, saving on dings etc, but as soon as you can take off and have started to be able to turn on a wave a Bic (even the shortboard versions) are pretty damn shyte. You would surely have to be seriously poor not to buy a normal board and have twice the speed on a wave. (I am sure Slater et al would have about 5 times my speed on a Bic though!!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 29, 2007, 08:08:12 am
very nice session yesterday, a couple of feet, super clean, and two hours in the water with no booties. (one finger turned very white, though). i have to say that the money i invested in the new board is some of the best spent money in my life. it turns and speeds, and makes me happy.

I'm still coming to terms with my new one. Went out for a brief session in Aberdeen on Saturday afternoon. Waves were huge and heavy. Duckdiving a lot easier, but soon learnt that messy but functional popping up, while fine for my minimal is definitely not good enough for the fish. Also that I need to wax it a lot more.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 29, 2007, 07:29:50 pm
Guys when you are done beting my sorry punter ass into the ground :spank:...do you have a wetsuit recommendation?  i am skinny but tall - consequently my current realy shagged cheap and very cold 3x2 has a wierd baggy bit round the waist which fills up with water.  The skinny frame also means i get really cold really fast.  should i go elasto or just steamer myself up in 6x4?  Probably willing to go up to £200...and mooch around the sales a bit too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on January 29, 2007, 08:18:26 pm
i cannot recommend anything in particular, cos i still have a beefy 5-4-3 that found for cheap in rome, but i think you should consider a few things.
- you like surfing
- you want to surf and have fun
- if you freeze you cannot surf nor have fun

so i think that its good to spend all the money you can in the best and most durable wetsuit you can have.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2007, 07:40:21 am
clm, I am a similar build to you, and I have a 5/3 Gul I bought about 5 years ago that's still going strong. I've hear they have gone downhill since then though. I've heard good things about the excel wetsuits. I don't think you need anything thicker than 5/3, I surf mostly in NE scotland and only ever get cold hands and feet, when using mine with one of the C-Skin Hooded Rash Vests, which I highly recommend.

Unfortunately the only way to check for a good fit is to try them on. A good tip is to keep your scoks on when trying on wetsuits, makes them a lot easier to get on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 30, 2007, 09:33:09 am
I recon you need some thing like this (http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/cgi-bin/miva?wcs/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=1&Product_Code=FIRE53&Category_Code=W2)

Obviously you need to try it on but recent modern suits are really stretchy compared to cheaper old ones, either that or you need to hang around with Jim some more.  ;)

Are you keen for a winter/spring trip west? I haven't been in the water for months!  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 30, 2007, 08:03:16 pm
Definately, not been out on my bic for a long time...
(http://www.croyde-surf-cam.com/xs-boards/bic73tube.jpg)
and could do with getting back to abersoch...
(http://www.bicsportna.com/new/images/girl_surfer.jpg)
doh, wait a minute...that was the bic daydream...
i meant abersoch...
(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/daily_photos/cilan.jpg)...flat again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2007, 10:24:58 am
Clm, what you need to keep warm is some body fat.
I may be up for providing some hospitality in Lleyn sometime soon, missing the sea.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 31, 2007, 04:16:43 pm
Went off yesterday, clean and mean. looking foward to no wetsuit warmth...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 31, 2007, 06:50:16 pm
Blimey - seem to have posted a daily webcam.  was flat when i posted it - bit bigger today.
Shes got nice bics hasnt she.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 01, 2007, 08:47:00 pm
Pleased with this shot.  Lines coming in from a great height.  And if you read this today (1st) look at how clean hells mouth is (scroll up a bit)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/132/376775688_7933217c81.jpg?v=0)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2007, 07:44:52 am
Actually someone on a wave (2nd). East Coast looks pretty gash again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 02, 2007, 09:38:34 am
(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/daily_photos/rhiw.jpg) Yummy!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2007, 09:52:30 am
Quote
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/132/376775688_7933217c81.jpg?v=0)
Like your thinking there
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/adamlong/gallery/landscape/uk/neigwl.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2007, 10:16:41 am
Swell lines like you (almost) never see on the East Coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 02, 2007, 08:09:11 pm
Looks nice at The Mouth for tomorrow, smallish swell but with a very long period. If it wasn't such a good forecast in the Peak (... and I wasn't going to Barbados for two whole weeks at the end of the month  :great:) I'd be doing an early one and heading over.

Nice pic's - you can see my mates house on Callums shot.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: whispering nic on February 02, 2007, 11:59:43 pm
MMM.. long workable rides, like a good wooooman.

I'm really just getting my 50th post so I can wreak some Karma :guilty:

There's a fine reef break just south of Torness nuke station, waters always warm..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 07, 2007, 04:27:54 pm
Oh dear, another snapped leash. got rescued again during the most advanced session ever...
perfect 2ft Fistral point breaks, the best wave i have ever seen...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 08, 2007, 11:37:23 pm
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/fallenangelkatey/pat1.jpg)

(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/fallenangelkatey/pat2.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 09, 2007, 02:50:09 am
alright, old and new. will try and get some recent additions from the big days that have occurred.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 09, 2007, 11:37:16 am
 :o no booties!!!!! :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 09, 2007, 12:57:47 pm
I seem to remember he asked for some for xmas but got a scissor sisters cd instead.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 10, 2007, 08:29:02 am
That soon became a coulorfull frisbee...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2007, 09:03:21 am

There's a fine reef break just south of Torness nuke station, waters always warm..

Similar to St Cyrus. Doesn't ,ean I'm going to surf there. Don't want to end up a Jaffa.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 15, 2007, 08:43:36 am
Looking good for Nth Wales tomorrow and Saturday - I'll be up from tomorrow morning through to Sat evening.  PM me if anyone is around...

B
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 22, 2007, 05:40:35 pm
It was really good last Friday/Sat... surfed a secret spot on the Nth Coast all to myself in between work phone calls and Blackberry action in the car.  Saturday morning dawned and Ceriad was looking heavy and we watched some boogers getting nailed so we stood around talking a good story but not getting in.  Checked a couple of secret spots but the swell wasn't getting in right... Ended up at The Corner on the dropping tide and it was perfect; just me, Dave (the RSPB warden) and a French dude in perfect 4-6ft Lefthanders..

I'm super psyched for surfing with a trip coming up so I might get up early tomorrow for another day in Wales.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 22, 2007, 06:44:54 pm
The Cribbar has been going well sources inform me, the swell rating must be big, out here its force 8 winds and almost pitching,.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 22, 2007, 07:26:50 pm
i just watched "riding giants", and the last greg noll interview brought a few tears to my eyes.
to see a man that big and tough almost cry in front of the camera is something that really touched me.
ahh, we romantic surfers... :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2007, 04:02:22 pm
Its funny, I totally cry when i watch dog town and Z boys, the super 8 footage of Jay Adams straight lining that big hill crouched up, he is actually going to fast for the film and you get color trailbacks from the Californian light.... Celluloid acid man...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2007, 04:06:14 pm
I have also been reading "Eddie would go" the story of Eddie Akiau, this is truly the story of a great man, this has inspired me to become a better person out of the water as much as in. many tears were spent reading this.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2007, 04:33:23 pm
eddie would go is an amazing story and he must have been a grat man.
inspirational for sure.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2007, 05:07:58 pm
My next read is Nat is Nat and thats that!
story of Nat Young!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2007, 05:17:25 pm
<Namedrop alert..>

Unfortunately, Jay Adams is a total c*ck in real life.. I've bumped into him in Santa Monica with my California pal and I was distinctly unimpressed.

Peggi Oki is not a bad climber - she can often be seen in Yosemite and Joshua Tree.  She also paints great pictures...

Also, I had the great fortune to skate with TA, Natas and Bill Danforth in the 80's when there was an Alva Skates tour in Manchester - we drank beer and skated the Medical School banks - how cool was that for a 17 year old FD.. I was starstruck.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2007, 05:26:50 pm
Surfing books...

The best one IMHO by a long chalk is 'Caught Inside' by Dan Duane (an ex-Yosemite YOSAR and big-wall vet) about a year on the Northern California Coast - it's well worth seeking out and has a climbers perspective too.

"Nats that" is a great read but I reckon Rabbits 'Bustin down the door' is better and has more surfing in it - Nat Young was on the beach last time I was in Barbados but he had a really grumpy look about him so I didn't go and say hello.

An English guy called Andy Martin wrote a great book called 'Walking on Water' a number of years ago about his stay in Hawaii that's really interesting from an UK perspective - he's got a new book coming out on the rivalry between Kenny Bradshaw and Mark Foo that ought to be very good.

Finally, you can't go wrong with back issues of The Surfers Journal - the reader supported quarterly.  I have a full back catalogue that's an incredibly valuable historical resource.

Nibs re: Riding Giants - By a strange coincidence, one of my old housemates (who Andy Popp used to teach) went out with (i.e. shagged for a summer) Alex Cooke; the guy who surfed the biggest wave out of the helicopter before the whole tow-in thing started - he has a small feature in Riding Giants...

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2007, 05:58:22 pm
Just curious, have either of you seen Litmus and Glass Love? Andrew Kidmans films... If not, you should as they are both right up your street...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2007, 06:16:08 pm
i love litmus.
i got it as a gift for my "the surfers path" subscription.
the derek hynd footage is amazing, pure poetry.
big big ups.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2007, 07:26:53 pm
Alright, you got your hook ups down!
Think Peggi Oki used to hang out at Star Ave, in J tree when i was there, my girlfriend knew her quite well and she would of definitly of known Tucker Tech and Todd Gordon.
Will not be seeing you in Barbados, looks like Russells wedding will not be forgotten, kind of thankfull we did not go, Its been total chaos there for the last 6 weeks and i do not like going to paradise and gettin fucked up, which if you are living in the gun club, you would have for breakfast every morning! hope you have a good one.
Thanks for the reads, going away for a while and have allready orderd caught inside...
was reading about rabbits epic during his visit to Hawaii, Heavy.
Keep tuned, wanting to visit Ireland over the summer, will try and coincide.
Hey Nibbles, seen some footage of Sardinian Surf, is that where you live? have climbed there but was unaweres of the Liquid potential.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2007, 07:38:18 pm
hey idol,
unfortunately, surf wise, i dont live in sardinia, but go there almost every year for some surf.
many places are overcrowded and generally not worth cos of really bad vibes around, but at least as much places (if not more) are still available for nice sessions!!!
also, sport climbing is world class.
if youre about to ask why i dont move there, the answer is the lack of bouldering. they say...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 24, 2007, 07:38:56 am
Capo Testa is really good, other places such as Orani and the central region are alright, but routes in the Supramonte is the fucking shit... Punta Giraldilli is my favorite crag, trying to tie up possibility of going after Sri Lanka, done Wolfgang Gulich, 7A 400mts, this trip want to do Angelo Blu, and Mediteranio. where do you live.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 24, 2007, 10:07:02 pm
come down for a session.
september is perfect, any NW swell that comes in from the south of france. the more onshore the better here.
ahh i cant wait.

theres one spot where the sea has carved a natural arch in the rock. the swell comes in, almost fill the arch (8-9 meters high) and you are there for the takeoff. as the wave exit the arch, founds deep water and gets down to 2 meters, and spits you out. you surf and find yourself again in cal deep water in the inside of the small gulf, ready for the next ride. adrenaline.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 25, 2007, 10:46:49 pm
ahhh today was GOOD.
you never know until you go.

waited in the water for half an hour with few waves, but the wind had already dropped and when the sets came in i was super trimmed. one of the smoothest sessions ive ever had, really in tune. im happy!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 04, 2007, 09:56:42 am
Sounds great Nibs.. patience with surfing will often yield great rewards.

I'm off to Barbados for 13 days tomorrow.. plenty of trade swell forecast with a southerly and northerly pulse for mid and the back end of the week.  Packed a couple of boards up yesterday.. the 6'3 Quad/Fish for fun and speed and the 6'10 Widowmaker  2+1 for the heavy waves.  No suit, just boardies and sun screen... Can't wait to sip that first cold Banks under a palm tree after a few waves at Soup Bowls on Monday evening..  :beer1:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on March 04, 2007, 10:25:59 pm
hey have a good holiday!!!
today was super good also: its fucking full spring time down here. more like may. warmest winter ever.
lines and lines coming in, the whole day in the sun. my face is burning, my feet are cut and full of urchin needles, but its been a great day.
there were also FOUR girls in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on March 07, 2007, 06:38:13 pm
Can't wait to sip that first cold Banks under a palm tree after a few waves at Soup Bowls on Monday evening..  :beer1:

Nice! I linke Banks's bitter too, didn't know you could get a pint in Barbados mind... every cloud has a silver lining eh FD?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 11, 2007, 04:36:45 pm
Yeah baby, Sri Lanka is pumping too, no more wetsuits.... just sun burn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 12, 2007, 01:42:21 pm
I read "Riding the Magic Carpet" recently. nothing insightful, just a nice story about an average guy fulfilling his surfing dreams.

Spring Sessions are arriving in Scotland, but I think I have a cracked rib from stacking when snowboarding.

Idol Eyes, if you have some spare time next time you are in Aberdeen, and fancy a wave or two, get in touch. I have a spare board.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 15, 2007, 02:47:04 pm
Looks like next week may be a wild one for the East Coast. Seek sheltered spots!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 19, 2007, 05:38:33 am
Ha Ha, totally had my board ripped again today, surfing Bennys on the low, got wacked on a set wave, out on my own and took a the rest of the set on my head. fairly far out, got my head down and learned to swim in major rip, fucking having it... got to my board before the rescue team got wet. my chick had a seizure. got longboarding down.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 19, 2007, 04:15:35 pm
Got back from Barbados yesterday afternoon... 18 hours earlier I'd been wearing boardshorts and sunscreen in 20 degree water with turtles and I found myself in the Sunday evening twilight in Ron Hills and a cagoule running up Eccles Pike with the dog into the teeth of a blizzard..

Had a great trip, surfed at least twice a day for 12 days and did the whole holiday thing with Mrs FD.  Got Soup Bowls and Parlours at 6-8ft for four days with (rare) light winds.. a few gusty/choppy 3-4ft sessions at South Point & Brandons, a couple of very nice and super clean head-high days at Mullins on the Caribean coast and then a final week of choppy but powerful head-high surf at Soup Bowls and Parlours.  I now have enourmous lats and shoulders, a very brown face, lots of reef cuts and urchin spine dots, great cardio fitness and no finger strength but who cares... that'll come back quick enough.  I also saw loads of giant leather back turtles close by nearly every time I paddled out which was very exciting.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2007, 12:40:50 pm
On a different level, managed first dawnie of the year this morning. In water by 7:30 (would have been earlier if I hadn't grabbed rowie's glove (XS) out of box before heading down to water. Then went back to car and swapped them for what i thought were my pair, but were actually her other one and mine). Bit big and messy, but starting to feel love for new board. Not too bad in the water, but cold getting changed and I put off getting out as long as possible in hope it would warm up a bit (it didn't).

Good to get one in before clocks changed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 23, 2007, 09:41:20 am
Another snapped leash! For fucksake! nice one Falling Down! we have five more sessions, then back to grey skysand 5\3 wet suits. Will try to hook up...
SA, get your arse down west... see you soon
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 26, 2007, 07:11:48 pm
Got another session in the evening after the morning session. Two sessions in one day on a work day; not bad. Was much smaller and cleaner, we got out as it was getting dark, and it pissed down on us.

Quote
SA, get your arse down west... see you soon

It's spring! Suumer is not the time to be in the SW, I spent two years fighting hoards in the water, sloppy waves, posers on the beach, no thanks. Quiet Scottish Breaks all summer long.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 27, 2007, 11:27:05 am
No, south coast reef madness,,, Is Thurso worth a visit
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 27, 2007, 11:40:57 am
No, south coast reef madness,,, Is Thurso worth a visit

Always. I'm not good enough though for it though. Sandwood Bay and Oldshoremore are fantastic mind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 04, 2007, 09:22:52 pm
Head east for the weekend people! Looks to be epic (hope I haven't cursed it).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 05, 2007, 08:26:10 pm
Aye 'tis looking pretty good.. not too big, looong period and perfect winds.

I was planning my trad comeback this weekend but now I'm not so sure    :-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 06, 2007, 10:04:44 am
Just had dawnie. Bit messy but the occasional clean set came through. Sadly I was never in position to make the most of them. Another session tonight.

Leave the trad til next week fd, the rock will always be there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on April 07, 2007, 09:16:53 pm
It looked good at Flamborough head this afternoon- I saw a few folk out on smallish waves but the sets were coming in regular and it wasn't too messy. Looked to be the longboards catching the rides though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 09, 2007, 08:07:07 am
They always do on small waves.

Had a before work session on Friday, then a post work one, Saturday morning long session and a Sunday morning session. My arms are wasted!. Had to get out on bike on Sunday afternoon, as my arms were too wasted to pull on anything. Most consistent spell in Aberdeen for a long time, guess that's it until Autumn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 09, 2007, 12:29:39 pm
Aye 'tis looking pretty good.. not too big, looong period and perfect winds.

I was planning my trad comeback this weekend but now I'm not so sure    :-\

I've been ill since Friday  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 09, 2007, 10:09:19 pm
Yeah, well ive been sick too, really ill after getting back. Air port virus.... throat, fucking latent drowning, WE, and perfect 1ft waves.... long boarding all day,,,, travelled to S L, only to recive perfection on home soil.... Bank holliday WE,,,, Totally fucked up on every ting, later vibes....
PS, in a room full of Long board advocates, laughing at the "small wave" comment, no names...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 21, 2007, 09:32:43 am
Had a great day yesterday on the North Yorkshire Coast with Oldfella, Heinrik Ellis & Property tycoon/full time surfer Moffat.  Started the day at an undisclosed location and had a good hour to ourselves, overhead and a little choppy, the conditions were somewhat challending - it took me and Ellis a good half hour of late drops and hideous wipeouts before we dialled in and I was rewarded with a big open left hander that walled up and gave some room for manouvers.

We grabbed some lunch and returned to the same spot.  On my first wave I blew the drop and got so nailed I spent the next half hour puking my guts out in the channel.  Not many waves were ridded as the rip was hideous and the lineup was shifting everywhere. The hot showers of Cayton Bay tempted us and we surfed overhead pumphouse for a couple of hours in the evening.  I got a screamer all the way to the pumphouse wall to find exit options limited and with Oldfella behind me we resorted to climbing the pumphouse wall and 4b slab manouvers between hanging on with finger tips as the waves surged up the slab.

I'm shagged today & covered in very nasty bruises...  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2007, 11:14:55 am
Wierd, it was pish at Aberdeen. Pish again today.

Sounds epic tho.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on April 21, 2007, 01:12:06 pm
Apparently this is off county cork :o :o :o :o :o :o :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw:

(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/22060.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 21, 2007, 09:56:52 pm
6-8Ft on monday.... North Fistral will be on fire.
Its been clean for the last few sessions.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 23, 2007, 02:50:17 pm
guts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87mDHSez6AE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87mDHSez6AE)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 30, 2007, 11:59:41 am
Good find Nibs..... very impressive surfing from the North Shore pioneers. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2007, 09:03:56 am
Hendo got some good pics from the Scottish Open, hopefully he will post them here. We went two days too late, it's like a millpond at the moment.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Hendo on May 01, 2007, 09:36:38 am
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/180/479621958_e28e55ab72.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/186/479621960_77085a8b26.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/186/479621962_55dbed3f5f.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/217/479621972_b825469aaf.jpg)

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/206/479621974_0a8c9be4b0.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Hendo on May 01, 2007, 11:08:01 am
Probably been posted before http://www.dreamcatcherproductions.ie/film1.html
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 01, 2007, 11:25:06 am
Nice pics Hendo... are these of the final ?  It's amazing how the bowl at Brimms just sucks up any swell in the area.

I had a nice session at Hells Mouth on Saturday evening - I didn't expect anything but took the Mal down to paddle to Cilan and back with a mate but we found a small swell breaking over the reef and we traded lovely little waist high glassy peelers on our logs until the sun set.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Hendo on May 01, 2007, 12:05:28 pm
They are pics of the last Quarter, sat through the 1st 20 mins of the 1st Semi without anyone taking a wave, and I was too hungry and hungover to stay any longer.

Quite an amazing place, how the wave just pops up and drives you towards the rocks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2007, 01:47:06 pm
Quite amusing pic of how to deal with goatboaters dropping in;

(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/22722.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 03, 2007, 07:47:14 pm
Its been quite a week down in Cornwall, very clean offshore swells for the last few sessions. now up in Scotland and tis trashy... just watched Longer, the film of Joel Tudor, fully recommend it to all Loggers.
Reading Surf Rage, Nat Young,,,
Relates to the images installed, these play boaters are fucking ugly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2007, 08:08:53 am
Where in Ecosse are you? We drove up to NW on the weekend on the hope of catchign the leftover swell, but missed it. North Sea flatness for the short term future, mught be needing to make evening drives to Banff, can't be doing with another waveless summer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 04, 2007, 12:57:53 pm
I mobilised today, on the Forties Alpha...
was around Abo for a couple of days, but was in meetings, so could not get wet, might try on the return.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2007, 02:20:52 pm
It's been pish on the east coast for a couple of weeks now. Apparently Moray Coast has had a bit. Might be OK next week, if winds behave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on May 07, 2007, 10:43:05 pm
Good stuff at Hell's Mouth today. Yesterday was small but worthwhile, today was bigger but a bit blown out. Still fun though. CLM has new wettie and has learnt the concept of not being cold in UK water.  :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on May 08, 2007, 01:45:59 am
Not being cold in UK water - Im not sure such a concept existed...  ;) I dont even go in the water here in the winter - tho admittidly is often warmer than the air!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on May 09, 2007, 07:23:49 pm
hes not wrong...the 10 minute skinny man managed 2 hours in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 10, 2007, 09:00:12 am
Come to NE Scotland to really put it to the test. Still needed hooded rashie, boot and gloves last night.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 14, 2007, 09:03:01 pm
Erm, where are the photos of me gone...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 21, 2007, 10:04:42 am
Up at Banff yesterday. Small waves (1-2ft) so borrowed one of the new lightweight epoxy Take Off Longboards. Never had a go on a longboard before, great fun. Not sure if it was the lightweightness, or the length (9ft 6), but was catching some great rides on small waves, and even managed to do one of the turns when you get the nose up and swing it round? Sun even made an appearance, so managed to get hood off for a while.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 22, 2007, 12:55:56 pm
Any beta on good summer venues (europe)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 22, 2007, 12:58:16 pm
Any beta on good summer venues (europe)

When in Summer? Late summer and SW France will be firing. In particular, Hossegor.....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 22, 2007, 01:14:28 pm
Also heaving in french Hols.

Portugal? Lewis will be deserted, as always. Tempted by an August trip.

Get Stormrider's Europe.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 22, 2007, 05:39:49 pm
You could get lucky in Ireland, but probably not.

Leave it a bit later and Morroco will be pumping......

As Chris says, Portugal, amazing pretty quiet waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 22, 2007, 08:14:06 pm
Hmm, going to France in Sept, thinking for the next few weeks! got some time and need some direction, northern Spain might produce, got the low pressure guide, but looking for something different, Longboard (2-4ft).
Morocco could be the one, or back to Sri Lanka, Aragum Bay, but being advised not to go there as there is escalating violence. must spray about the rock climbing here at some point, it really is worth going to,,, got some 3 star venues to direct you crazy rock cats to...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 23, 2007, 07:49:53 am
Well Ireland and the Hebrides look to be producing for the short term future. Bit onshore, but you could find some sheltered spots. Stormriders is a bit scanty on info for Hebrides, I think the little wave finder guide is a bit more useful.

I thought you were lookign for Europe venues, or has the lack of job made you want to look further afield?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 23, 2007, 08:23:29 am
Really have not got a clue? just want some freedom... somewhere, anywhere...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 23, 2007, 08:32:53 am
If you have got wheels, get a ferry over to ireland, or drive up to NW Scotland before midgies get too intense. Option of ferry to Hebrides from Skye or Ullapool, either with car from either or foot passenger to Stornaway.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 27, 2007, 09:14:20 am
Dawnie!

Waves OK,bit messy but caught a couple of great rides. Hopefully clean up by tonight.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 27, 2007, 12:46:37 pm
Nice one - I'm in Houston getting a mauling from my boss and wishing I was at home going surfing!

Ben

- Just booked an Indo boat trip for next May, this time to the Banyaks and Simulue islands... I'll send links and pics once I have them from the boat operator.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 27, 2007, 02:19:05 pm
I'd rather you didn't!

Lets hope the Outer Hebrides offer up fine swells, warm weather, but enough breeze to keep midgies at bay.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 02, 2007, 10:48:13 pm
Any beta on good summer venues (europe)
anywher below that big line that goes around the globe.
south africa, if you don't mind noahs.
maldives, if you're minted like falling down.
Australia, if you have 3 months to spare.
maybe even srilanka.
Indo with out saying........
try the canaries. i went mid summer and surfed everyday at least twice a day for 2 weeks. you wont get that anywhere in th uk at any given time of the year. especially in boardies.
some of these venues will cost less than those euro reccomemdations if you think and prepare well enough.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2007, 10:04:38 am
First day of summer here yesterday. Cloudless skies, clean waves at Banff, comfortable in summer rash vest and no gloves. Not often you have to dodge people swimming in Scotland. Managed to ride half a dozen rights and a couple of lefts, just as a reminder that I don't totally suck, it's just Aberdeen is really difficult to ride well.

Highlight of my surfing career though was when one of the kids getting a lesson with the surf club said "Wow, you're really ace!".

Nice kid, will go far in life.

Total pish weather today again though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 17, 2007, 05:31:54 pm
Garret McNamara surfing glacier 'tsunami' waves..

http://www.bbc.co.uk/mediaselector/check/player/nol/newsid_6950000/newsid_6951400?redirect=6951440.stm&news=1&nbram=1&nbwm=1&bbwm=1&bbram=1&asb=1

Irony isn't the right word but there's something not quite about using jet-ski's to surf these waves whilst dodging the evidence of global warming..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: erm, sam on August 18, 2007, 12:07:19 am
It could almost be joke - how exteme can an extreme sport be. "Freaking glacier waves man"
I think they should get a life and stop scrapeing the barrel for things to do. Get a job or something. Go visit your mother. Do anything except surf stupid glacier waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 18, 2007, 07:46:35 am
Off to the Lleyn now - might get a decent wave at Ceriad this teatime when the wind shifts southerly.... (fingers x'ed)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 19, 2007, 03:49:16 pm
Good week, full report will follow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 20, 2007, 10:25:04 am
Drove through a deluge of biblical proportions along the A5 on Saturday morning.  A stroll along Abersoch beach at lunchtime with the dog and my nephews saw the wind shifting from a howling southerly to breezy Westerly.  Not perfect conditions, but the visible lines of swell marching along the sides of the Tudwalls islands confirmed the presence of a groundswell coming into Cardigan.  Later that afternoon I surfed a local place on the dropping tide.  Windy and choppy but with some size and power.

Overnight the wind shifted to a north westerly, perfect conditions for the south facing spots.  The swell had cleaned up considerably and I spent nearly four hours in the water with a handful of local friends and acquaintances.  This spot is such a special place on days like these.  Bobbing below the cliffs in clear green water with well shaped shoulder to head high peaks coming through and getting good waves.  The birds were very active, Sandwich terns diving amongst us to collect fish, Guillemots paddling around like penguins, young cormorants learning to fish and Choughs skriking overhead fighting with the Gulls.  It felt too Autumnal for Summer even though the sea was warm.  I drove home tired and contented and slept like a log last night.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 20, 2007, 12:06:11 pm
Sounds like a crackin sesh.
I have just ordered me an Al Merrick, picking it up in Hossegor next week, oh should be fun...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2007, 12:45:11 pm
I think FD has an Al Merrick? Anyhow, we had all sorts of weather for the week, from howling onshores and horizontal rain to blue skies. Got in water every day we were on N Uist, although there were a couple of days when I wouldn't have bothered if I had been at home. Friday was probably my best day surfing ever; went to "a beach near Hosta" that was clean and about 6 foot in the morning. Got out back and got on a handful of big rights and a fantastic left that I was really pleased about. By late afternoon it had dropped to about 4 foot, and I bagged a dozen or so fantastic rides before my paddling power gave in. In the process of gathering photos at the moment, will post some soon.

Great trip, definitely worth getting over there. I think there is talk of reducing ferry fees soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 20, 2007, 01:02:57 pm
>I think FD has an Al Merrick?

Nope...  Lots of boards but no Al Merricks.  Glad to hear you had a good trip Chris and looking forward to seeing the photo's. Did you get out on your big fish?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2007, 01:56:01 pm
Did you get out on your big fish?

Had one good afternoon session on it, but left it at the tent one day when I really could have done with it.

I thought you bought an Al Merrick from Granite Reef when you were up here?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 20, 2007, 02:05:36 pm
Going away,,,
got the van racked for a three monther, france, spain, portugal and morocco.
Just compleated the quiver,
9.0 plank
9.4 freedom
9.6 stuart hydrohull ***
9.4 stuart hydrohull***
7.0 nine plus magic carpet (to be arranged)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2007, 02:33:04 pm

9.4 freedom
9.6 stuart hydrohull ***
9.4 stuart hydrohull***

Combined, do these make up a trimaran?

Good luck with the trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 20, 2007, 02:37:01 pm
I thought you bought an Al Merrick from Granite Reef when you were up here?

Nope it was a Rob Vaughan 6'6" Rounded Pin with a bit of volume.. goes well when there's some juice and it's head high plus.

Idol Eyes - Have a fantastic trip.. needless to say I am extremely jealous indeed. You picked the right time of year for a Euro tour.  If you're in the Rodilles area keep your eyes peeled for Richie Patter...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2007, 04:16:53 pm
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v121/154/67/689146086/n689146086_252602_5187.jpg)

End of morning session on Friday. Was actually a bit brighter than it looks in photo
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 22, 2007, 04:58:58 pm
Yeah... Its total dog shit here at the mo... last sat was v good. going to be going via Rosscoff, would like to meet up with patta and mary...
Just looked at a tunnel vision 10.0 traditional single fin. the last blank from Clark foam... £899.00
its on hold.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 30, 2007, 04:19:17 pm
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v112/134/40/553261365/n553261365_262614_712.jpg)

My moment of madness on the trip. Just to prove it is possible in Scotland. Put wetsuit back on after 2 waves though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on August 31, 2007, 06:18:01 pm
something snapped inside my knee at hossegor last monday - going to the docs to find out what on tuesday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 02, 2007, 02:44:19 am
Well been in Australia 2 weeks. Bought a van and a board. Ill try and post some wave pics up soon....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2007, 08:17:49 am
Bad news clm. Doesn't sound great. Hope you get some good waves Adam, Will hopefully be there this time next year.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 03, 2007, 05:35:20 pm
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaargggghhhhhhhh!  Well like minded folks, we are currently experiencing a flat spell in the South West.

Last decent surf was Sat 18th August on the Exmoor coast, a high tide reef that peaks with way better lefts than rights.  Conditions and tides came together for the evening, only 5 of us were onto the charts enough to suss this session out.  Got in on my own, in choppy conditions with onshore NW's then, 1 more came in still choppy, I stated that the wind was due to drop about now and right on cue.. just as the tide was up onto the reef to make the peak work properly it did indeed drop!  3 more came in and that was it!  3 to 4 ft glassy perfection from 7.30pm until dark with just 5 peeps in during the height of summer..... Sweet..

The only problem with the above is that now it's been flat for weeks, I had a week off camping down in Kernow and didn't surf due to the crapiness of the waves.  That one session has me amped up for more but mother nature is not coming up with the goods...  Somebody tell me there's some swell on the way, sometime soon???  I might have to go bouldering at this rate!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 06, 2007, 01:27:17 pm
Its too fucking much, the only relief was surfstock... what a party, another this W.E. going to Sennen now... trying to see the light, but all forecasts are flatlineing. taken three weeks of work, for nothing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 06, 2007, 06:09:40 pm
Dude!  I am feeling for you...  Was down Porthleven way during Surfstock weekend and ended up going to a different party in middle of nowhere.. There was a mad and v. talented funk jazz band playing! Corking night..  Meanwhile there was a Cowboys and Indians party up Wadebridge way which was apparently kicking too.  The party scene down in Kernow is excellent this time of year, lots of end of season celebrations and post harvest farmers letting off steam..  You couldn't have picked a worse time or place to chase the surf though......  Think Ireland and Scotland are hitting some swell at the moment... tempted to bail but work won't allow!   Still hurricane season is upon us and if this high stops blocking out storm systems, one of those little beauties is going to track across the atlantic and light up our coast.  I live in hope..  In the meantime... have been bouldering at Godrevy and Exmoor Coast..  Godrevy is deffo worth a visit if you're in Cornwall and the Exmoor Coast is our best kept secret up here in North Devon.  I'll put an offering out to Huey for you! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2007, 06:38:09 pm
I wouldn't rush up here or far north. Apparently onshores for NW, flat in east. At least got an OK (for Abz) session on Tuesday, and might be more ealry next week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 07, 2007, 09:30:13 am
Looks like the East Coast will get another pulse of swell Tuesday and Wednesday next week as per this week.  Unfortunately I'm stacked up with work again so haven't got wet either for a few weeks.  I'm hopeful for my week long Ireland trip in October though....

If anyone is interested (and wants to make themselves feel sick with jealousy) here's a slide show from a recent boat trip http://www.kalegray.com/  (http://www.kalegray.com/) to the Banyaks.  We're going on the same boat to the same place next May... looks nice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 07, 2007, 11:16:33 am
 :jaw:  Looks sick!  However, this has now just added to my mental anguish!  :wall:
Being a goofy footer, I was begining to worry that you didn't get any lefts out there at all!  Nice to see the regulars finally had to get on your back hand for a bit! 

The charts are not looking favourable at all for the next week...  This is not what supposed to happen in September... All the grockles are supposed to go back to their land locked existence safe and out of the way!  Then hurricane season sends the lows across the pond allowing us all to enjoy warm water and pumping waves!  I can't remember a flat spell like this in the South West.  There's not even any onshore dribble to surf.  :furious:

Still it's been dry and warm for 2 weeks...  Going bouldering later and getting stronger due to lack of distractions such as surfing....... 

In the meantime here's what we're waiting for 'Lyndaka' in perfection machine mode!

http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=2441
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 07, 2007, 11:30:26 am
Just to clarify, that wasn't us on the boat trip.  We're going next year.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 10, 2007, 10:27:35 am
Well lets hope you all don't end up like the chap who paid his skin tax then.......... it's supposed to be a nightmare to get wounds to heal in that environment.  Also hope the waves are that good for you...

South West conditions update >............... going bouldering........ again!   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2007, 11:09:14 am

South West conditions update >............... going bouldering........ again!   

NE conditions; forecast charts show what looks like a slice of onion passing just north of UK later in week. I hope they are right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 10, 2007, 01:39:45 pm
Tis Monday, going to sennen, still flat...
can not wait to bail...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 10, 2007, 02:09:47 pm
Been a solid 4/5ft last couple of days over here. Pitty i couldnt get in though as i was riding a plank in very average snow, even by Australian standards!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 10, 2007, 02:53:24 pm
it's supposed to be a nightmare to get wounds to heal in that environment.  Also hope the waves are that good for you...

It's OK if you treat them well - we had a Mentawai boat trip four years back and sustained lots of reef cuts.  Just dress them every day and they heal up alright.

The East Coast is looking mighty fine for the weekend - I'll be up in Yorkshire somewhere....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 11, 2007, 05:28:57 pm
Apparently it is 3 to 4ft and clean on the east coast today....... you lucky, lucky...
Still stuck in N. Devon with extreme flatness extending far into the future..  It has been wall to wall sunshine for 3 weeks now... No sign of this high pressure system letting go for a while yet.  If it's flat at Sennen it's game over for the whole of Devon and Cornwall.
Could be worthwile bailing to the East coast this weekend, look out their is a 'pasty' invasion on the way, there are lots of desperate So' Westers that'll be on it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 12, 2007, 08:19:27 am
Wasn't in Aberdeen. Too much west to hit us. flatter than a kipper's cock. Hopes now pinned on weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 12, 2007, 03:14:57 pm
flatter than a kipper's cock

 :lol:  couldn't have put it better.......   the good news is according to Metcheck the high pressure system's days are numbered and winter is on the way! Joy!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 13, 2007, 10:04:38 am
It certainly feels like things are changing.  The weekend and early next week could get very good on the East Coast. I'll be heading somewhere quiet as I imagine every surf starved individual with a car will be descending on Yorkshire and further North this weekend. 

On a more somber note, it looks like the earthquakes yesteday and this morning have killed a few people in Sumatra and damaged a fair amout of infrastructure.  www.surfaidinternational.org  (http://www.surfaidinternational.org) who are a local surfer supported aid agency had the following on their website. 

"It was a big one - 7.9 (now 8.2).  Praem and the team at Tuapejat (in the Mentawai Islands) went to higher ground in case of a tsunami.  No reports of casualties or damage there from her early text message.  Bart (SurfAid's Indonesian Country Director) also spoke to the Nias team and all OK there.  But I was just speaking to Bart  - it's now 11.30pm and the quake happened a bit after 6pm, just before dark - and he's heard a 6.6 aftershock has been centred near Sikakap (S. Mentawai) and reports of damage around the harbour.

But it's night so we won't know until the morning.  Communications are very difficult as you'd imagine - difficult at best of times out there.

We just got power on in my house/office in Padang after five hours.
 
We were all in the office about 6.10pm or so - Ad, Sabar, Wahidah, Flor and Santi - and it started to shake, just a tremble at first, and then got stronger.  Everyone ran onto the road outside and it started rolling like a snake, up and down, and cars rocking side to side as though people were pushing them, and the big electricity tower behind was swaying ... a wind chime in my house was still swinging side to side after I came back in when it settled down.  And after it, it felt like that feeling you have when you get off a boat, that swaying motion where your equilibrium is a bit off.
 
Locals said it was a big one for Padang.  A few of my neighbours are pretty rattled."

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 14, 2007, 09:01:24 am
Granticus and Idol Eyes - It looks like the SW flat spell will be over by the end of next week.  The first south swinging low pressure of the Autumn looks set to track across from Wednesday... waves (and wind and rain) galore for you pasty munchers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2007, 10:09:49 am
Sat looks ok... at least the wind will be OS. yesterday was 1/2 ft and OS, going climbing ...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2007, 02:42:51 pm
OS = Offshore
OS = Onshore ?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 17, 2007, 09:37:32 am
Quiver……. Left to Right

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1041/1395065029_6ac2c1a3fc.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1198/1395065031_c3a9bf201d.jpg?v=0)

I was doing some repairs on Saturday and thought I'd photograph and share these.  I hope this isn't interpreted as showing off.. I'm always interested to see what other people are riding.

5’8 Hand Shaped Keel Fin Fish – Crafted myself during the Summer of 2006.  Currently broken as I didn’t glass the fins in properly, one fell out and it’s now waiting to be fixed.

6’3” Swallow Tail Quad - Shaped by Graeme Bunt following that trip to Ireland last year where I watched him and Frank McWilliams tear up Easky right on one of these boards.  With a slightly wider plan shape in the nose than a normal as I like a bit of volume under my front foot, this is probably the best board I’ve ever had, it’s extremely fast, very loose (with the Richie Pavel SpeedDialer fins) and also holds its own in bigger surf.  I rode this yesterday in Yorkshire and must have had a dozen set waves.

6’4 Swallow Tail Thruster – This is a replica of my second surfboard that I had during the early 90’s and then foolishly sold.  I now ride this one with a large twin side fins and small trailer fin.  As I get older I’m getting a bit heavy (12 ½ st) for it now so if anyone wants to buy it drop me a line and I’ll cut you a good deal.

6’5 Single Fin Egg –  I was nervous about going to Hawaii given the fearsome reputation of the  locals attitude toward Haoles and was given good bit of advice from an American friend which was ‘ride a local board’.  So I had Keola Rapuza of T&C make me this single fin egg before I went out.  The first morning there I paddled out at Ala Moanas and this huge guy shouted 'Hey... Hey...' and winced thinking 'Sh*t, here it comes...' and he shouts 'Nice board brah... it's nice out there' and I had a great two weeks.  If you look at the plan shape, you can see this isn’t a retro board by any means but a contemporary Egg made for surf with some juice.

6’5 Nigel Semmens Round Pin – A thick board that goes well, getting rather old now and somewhat battered.  I don’t ride it much these days but I’m reluctant to let it go.

6’6 Round Pin – Slightly thicker than a normal thruster, this goes great in powerful hollow or point surf, very responsive. One for hollow punchy days.

6’10 Widowmaker – Based on the Dave Parmenter profile that Neal Purchase Jr is riding in Glass Love, Adrian Phillips shaped this for me earlier this year prior to the Barbados trip. It has a large centre fin and two side bites. I’m riding this now more than the semi-gun when the surf gets overhead as it has a bit more volume up-front so I can get in earlier and the 2 + 1 setup has lots of drive off the bottom.  A very nice surfboard and I’m looking forward to taking this to Ireland in three weeks.

7’0 Aloha Semi-Gun – Have semi-gun will travel.  This has not seen as much action since I got the Widowmaker but this has ridden larger (for me anyway) waves in Hawaii, Mentawaiis, Barbados, Spain, Scotland and the Canaries.

9’6 South Coast Dane Peterson – A 37 lb beast of a board with 16oz Volan glass job and with a proper George Greenough flex fin.  I only started riding logs last year and it’s added a new dimension to my surfing.  Hanging ten on this thing and trimming on a neat waist high peeler is really something.

If I had to keep three boards it would be the Bunty Quad, the Phillips Widowmaker and the Log… they cover pretty much everything.

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1407/1395065039_2fd1110b46.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1433/1395065041_bb1be5218f.jpg?v=0)

I like looking at fins... and I love surfing.

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1026/1395065047_e2ad43be76.jpg?v=0)


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave on September 17, 2007, 09:59:27 am
me and the shortie were up at sandsend beach (whitby) yesterday and there were loads of people surfing there, was very windy and big-ass waves breaking etc. i don't know any surfing terminology. fairly impressive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 17, 2007, 10:00:02 am
Was Yorks good then?

Moray Coast was big, way to big for me; head and a half possibly? Got out back after a lot of hard work, then failed to get on two waves, taking a nailing each time. Then rode white wave back to shore and played in smaller waves. Got some good pics, will post tomorrow. Made me realise neither me nor my minimal is not up to job on waves that size, and encouraged me to work harder at riding the big fish, which I did most of the day yesterday in Aberdeen.

Are any of those boards redundant? A lot of them seem pretty similar.

I'm keen to get a longboard, probably will by the time next summer comes around. Thinking of the 9ft Take Off Noserider. Superlight!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 17, 2007, 10:25:19 am
Dave - That's where I was yesterday.. felt like the last day of Summer.  Good waves, People sunbathing, ice creams, sunshine, horrendous traffic on the way home.

Chris - Redundant boards?  The 6'4 Swallowtail is too thin for me now so I'll be getting rid of that and the 6'5 Semmens is very similar to the 6'6 I bought up your way last year.  The rest are all very different...   

I'm in town for two days tomorrow (did I really arrange those meetings to coincide with the swell?  :-\) and plan to bring the 6'5 and leave it in Aberdeen for the winter. See you tomorrow evening at the Beach and an early one on Wednesday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 17, 2007, 10:44:44 am
Sounds good for both. Pretty flat this morning, not sure if there's still too much west in the swell, but might be OK tomorrow. Stick in climbing gear in case it's flat; can do new beach wall.

Felt like the fist day of autumn here on the weekend; needed gloves towards end of session yesterday, apparently light snow on Cairrngorms and frost foecast for later in week.

So only two redundant boards then? That's as many as I own!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave on September 17, 2007, 11:43:55 am
Dave - That's where I was yesterday.. felt like the last day of Summer.  Good waves, People sunbathing, ice creams, sunshine, horrendous traffic on the way home.

I was there about 3:30-4ish, deffo no sun then! took a load of photos, you might even be in there.

Did you drive back on the a64 via malton? that was terrible last night, and it always seems to be the same. we should have gone back the way we came round by northallerton etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2007, 12:04:15 pm
(http://photos-086.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v113/154/67/689146086/n689146086_323131_1123.jpg)

Banff lines. pity light was poor. And there is dirt on my sensor
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 18, 2007, 12:38:12 pm
The twinnie looks good....
got a really nice brand new (one session) 9.0 plank for sale, fins + bag,,,, 300.00
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2007, 02:29:11 pm
Specs?

Do you still come up to Aberdeen at all any more?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 19, 2007, 08:20:10 am
I was there about 3:30-4ish,....Did you drive back on the a64 via malton?

I was in the water at that time, toward the cafe end.  The tide was high so the waves were not as good as earlier in the day, breaking onto the beach...

Yep I foolishly followed my autopilot and went via the A64. Should've gone North a bit and then across to the A19
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 20, 2007, 10:41:56 am
totally on again, someone flicked the switch... tis 3ft and fast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 20, 2007, 12:51:21 pm
The twinnie looks good....
got a really nice brand new (one session) 9.0 plank for sale, fins + bag,,,, 300.00

PK, I have PMed you on this.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 20, 2007, 01:39:06 pm
The twinnie looks good....

Thanks.. unfortunately having made it myself it doesn't surf as good as it looks  :)   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on September 20, 2007, 02:42:45 pm
First off, LOVELY quiver pix. Waddage there.

Just got back from Hossegor, the flattest surf trip ever, Guiness Book o' records here I come. Bought a new Al Merrick and it didn't get wet. Didn't see a ripple for a week, tried Basque country climbing (went to Onate and it was absolutely shyte). The long range forecast was even flatter than flat so we bailed to Font and had 15-18 degrees and bluebird. Fantastic! Then bailed to Norway on a huge forecast, had masthigh down the line windsurfing on a point one day and two surfs the next, finally in the water!
We did see a lot of boobs on the beach in Hoss, which was nice...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 20, 2007, 10:32:48 pm
We did see a lot of boobs on the beach in Hoss, which was nice...
so it wasnt flat at all!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 27, 2007, 10:43:05 am
 ;D  Hurrah!  Flat spell is over!  (Well it's flat to today hence the communication!!)  Had an expectedly large wind blown swell on Monday..  Those with the knowledge and foresight scored an epic high tide evening session of 3 to 4ft powerful lefthand reef cleaness at a spot in Somerset.  (The Weir) 6 people in the water, 5 from Minehead and little old me from North Devon.  Stayed in for 3 hours until it was too dark to see! Epic sunset, everyone smiling and giggling, good vibes in the water.  Will live off this session for a while!  Lynmouth was big messy and out of control!  Expecting offshore 2ft ish pulse to hit the beachies tommorow and Saturday! You just gotta love the autumn.

Nice quiver FD that's a lot money sitting there on your lawn (share the wealth!!).  Where do you find space to store the all?!  My quiver expanded to 3 boards recently...  7''6 Bonzer from a company that was based in Cornwall called Pirate.......it goes quick in a straight line and turns like an oil tanker!  6''8 Spider Murphy exec, basically a shortboard with lots of volume that paddles nice and easy similar to a fat boy flier (a pain to duck dive!) and my new edition 6'' Celtic Connections thruster...  still getting used to this one, definately needs some punch to work properly!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 27, 2007, 11:18:14 am
Glad to hear everyone is getting some waves.  I managed England, Scotland and Wales in 6 days last week.. although Aberdeen (with SA Chris ) was on the small side and Wales was a bit small and mushy at the weekend.

Nash - Given the Norway connection do you post on UKC with two initials?  What a shame you didn't get waves in France, especially as it suddenly picked up last week.

Granticus - What's the water quality like in Somerset?  I went to ATP in Minehead last December and was thinking of taking a board in case there was some swell.

Where do I store the quiver? - I've got a fairly large shed and I made some roof slings so they sit out of the way and I've left one in Aberdeen at a colleagues place over the winter for when I visit with work. I've had some of those boards for more than 10 years so it's not like I suddenly spent a fortune :-) If anyone wants to buy the 6'4 fish/thruster I'll cut a very good deal 'cos I don't use it anymore (too heavy - me that is, not the board). 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 27, 2007, 11:43:48 am
Water quality in Somerset???  Pretty murky, it's the Bristol Channel so the water can appear dirty because of all the silt coming out of the river Severn.  However, I'm not aware of any major pollution problems and haven't personally had any issues.  A v. big swell is required for breaks in Somerset to have decent waves, not as big as everyone thinks though! It is always an excellent option when the SWs and Ss are howling.  If it's too small it's not far over the border into Devon to Lynmouth where if you're lucky you can score absolutely epic lefts (seriously epic, my legs are getting tired and the paddle back round is making my shoulders burn kind of epic) and on occasion a nice powerful barrelling right.  There is also a mellow beachie in Minehead that works occasionally and a small band of local surfers (The Colony IV creW).  It's definately worth taking a board just in case but not a consistent place at all...  The piccy over here  <<<<<<<< is a Somerset reef going off!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 27, 2007, 02:41:50 pm
Stuck in Abo for the WE, any one about... SA C?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 27, 2007, 06:41:47 pm
He's in Arizona...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 28, 2007, 05:48:20 pm
seems like tomorrow i'll be in the water (surfing) again, with the posse.
it's incredible how much climbing has filled in all my spare time recently.
i've never surfed this few, and although i miss it, i'm completely fullfilled by pulling on rocks.

anyway, cross-stepping tomorrow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 29, 2007, 11:39:17 am
Anyone know where the DWS area is up here, or some Bouldering, or a multi pitch VS... the surf is off...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 01, 2007, 09:29:44 pm
Flew over some nice lines today though! is it Offshore at every break in the UK today? must be, as i am too!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2007, 09:58:54 am
I'm back. Idol Eyes, let me know when you are in town again. I am still potentially interested in buying that longboard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 09, 2007, 12:42:55 pm
Yeah, It is 9.0, Hawian Soul, traditional , vee tail. 3 1/4"  30/70 rails will post a photo later, when back on terra firma. hope you had  a wicked trip! looks like you got some swell coming your way, on the Elgin platform, looking good on the metro... back in town some time in the nest two weeks, just bought an antique rocket fish, complete with poly fila repairs (worth alot). keen to get it on, will talk around my mobilisation.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2007, 01:50:57 pm
Have PMed you (again)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 10, 2007, 04:05:18 pm
 :dance1:

Well folks.  Was in Exeter training for work yesterday, the weather cleared up and I got a session in (bouldering) at Bonehill.  Managed to pull my butt up a V8 sit start arete on the 'warm up' boulder, woo hoo!  Today the surf is pumping in proper Autumn swell stylee and this is set to continue tommorow, Friday, Saturday, Sunday with light winds throughout.  I'm in hog heaven!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 10, 2007, 05:46:38 pm
Its off shore as well, trying hard to not quit work, trying real hard...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2007, 08:31:52 am
:dance1:

 Managed to pull my butt up a V8 sit start arete on the 'warm up' boulder, woo hoo!

Arkem? I never managed to figure out what went where on that arete.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 11, 2007, 10:27:12 am
Shit, got another "can not turn down the money" job, five weeks in Norway... Eruo trip is now not likely,,, Costa Rica is the light at the end of this forth coming "very dark tunnel!"
any one been?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2007, 10:49:41 am
No, but looks sweet in Stormriders.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 11, 2007, 08:26:56 pm
Quote
five weeks in Norway...
 
Aren't there any breaks in Norway?  There must be!  Take your boards...
Quote
Arkem? I never managed to figure out what went where on that arete.
Yep! That's the one..  Bum Start, left hand on pinch right in crack thing with thumb over top of crystal, right foot on low edge under crack, left heel on low slopey edge around arete, pull on slap up with left to fat sloper, bring right foot up to little crystal foothold, kind of toe scum/clamp with left foot and move right hand up to small edge directly above the crack thingy, then i made a kind timing dependent slap up to the hold on the arete with my left hand, (left foot comes off right stays where it is) then finish by slap the top big fat sloper with your right hand!!!!!  Proper job baey!
Sorry folks it's not surfing talk is it now.....  It's been pumping all day here in North Devon, absolutely epic, managing to surf early before work, negotiated a late start with my boss tommorow!! The charts are of the dial for the entire weekend...  Bouldering can wait for the impending flat spell..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 11, 2007, 08:32:57 pm
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Europe/Norway/

Lotsa breaks^^
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 11, 2007, 08:42:52 pm
Er, kinda in the middle of the sea mate,,, many waves, but would not fit my boards on the chopper, Ha, can see it now.... Hawaii 50, north sea oil rig stylee...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2007, 08:54:00 am
Or Apocalypse Now style.

"There are no good peaks in Vietnam....... Norway"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 12, 2007, 09:17:39 pm
Quote
Costa Rica is the light at the end of this forth coming "very dark tunnel!"

clm has been and rated it. believe The Fly was taught to surf here by his good lady wife also. They rated it as well.

What are you doing with all this money then? Is there a lady in cornwall with expensive tastes?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 13, 2007, 11:49:06 am
Very much so, but as she is also 5 times British champion, she is also prone to laughing at my expense in the water. Still, she is a short boarder, I pissed myself when she tryed to hang ten... twas like a blindfolded retard running off a diving board into a belly flop.
She is fucking high maintenence, but a massive improvement on the last loon...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 14, 2007, 03:45:30 pm
She is fucking high maintenence, but a massive improvement on the last loon...
  ;D I'm guessing she doesn't read this forum. Or you hope she doesn't.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 14, 2007, 06:52:31 pm
Which one...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 14, 2007, 07:44:58 pm
The current.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 14, 2007, 08:59:12 pm
No, but by the uncannyest of coincidence, her brother claimed the British title today!!! in 7ft clean Fistral surf!!!
Funny how that all happened inbetween posts!
Hope he has not read this.... Nice one Ben.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2007, 08:12:39 am
Was Gathering of the Clans at Fraserburgh on Saturday afternoon, so I made the most of a deserted Banff. 3-4 foot lean peeling waves, ok water temp, light offshore breeze and even the occasional burst of sunshine. Nice lulls between sets and finally coming to terms with how great and responsive the Fish is. A few goatboaters on the point, but it looked pretty gutless, so had the peak on the beach to myself. Life is good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 15, 2007, 09:26:46 am
Got back from a week in Ireland on Saturday night.  We surfed Easkey rights and lefts Saturday through Monday last week and had great conditions.  Head high to head and a half groundswell with glassy or light offshores.  I think we had 8 sessions over those three days and I was surfing well from the get go so it was a great weekend.

Tuesday was small and we were tired so headed over to the Belmullet to look for the resident Snowy Owl that we searched in vain for last year.  This time we got lucky and had the pleasure of watching the owl for an hour through my mates telescope and our bins.  On the way back we sampled the Victorian seaweed baths in Inniscrome to ease our weary bodies - an experience well worth the 20 Euros if you are ever in the area.

Wednesday brought another small day due to the amount of SW in the swell so it wasn't wrapping into Sligo so we headed south to Co Clare.  A three hour drive deposited us at Doolin Point to see Crab Island breaking at double overhead but we were too late to paddle out and the tide was pushing up onto the rocks.  Lahinch was too high and jam packed with kooks dropping in on each other so we cracked open some tinnies and fished off the pier.  Unfortunately we woke up to screaming southwesterlies and driving rain on Thursday morning.  Debating the options for the next few days, the shipping forecast sealed it for us and we headed back to Easkey.  There's something about Clare that's a bit oppressive and we felt our mood lift as we headed back North. Despite trading on its reputation as a surf town there are very few places to wild camp or pitch up a van and its all a bit too touristy.

When we hit the coast we knew we'd made the right decision, the swell had picked up and with a little more west, the lefts and rights were shoulder to head high and we had a great session on the right, not leaving the water until after dark.  The remaining two days were the same and we surfed, ate, slept, read, fished and watched birds.

As always with a weeks surf trip there are highs and lows:

Highs:

I was surfing well, probably better than ever - got some great waves.  Made a couple of barrels & really got my backhand surfing down with all those sessions on the right.  Had one particular session on the left when it had some size (8-10ft faces, maybe bigger) with only two of us out and got three or four set waves.

The company; Jason and Dave were great travelling companions.  We shared the cooking, driving, washing up 'n stuff and had no disagreements.

The weather and the scenery - there's so much more to surfing than the act of riding a wave.

The Snowy Owl in the wild.  One of only handful in the British Isles - that was a privilege.

The Guiness.

Lows:

The 'kookocracy' TM Dave Parmenter seems to be on the increase.  I don't mean beginners but the surfers who have achieved some level of basic competence but behave badly or with some god-given sense of entitlement: paddling straight back to the peak after a wave; sitting too deep and paddling for unmakeable waves when someone else is in a better position; a lack of generosity; bailing boards instead of duckdiving... blah.

County Clare - the weather and the height restriction bars on all the car parks.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2007, 09:50:31 am
Kookocracy. A great word. Would have wadded you for it if it was yours. Interesting point you make though. Glad you had a good trip. Did you stop to check out Cliffs of Moher or Ailladie? We thought Lahinch town was OK when we were there (it was May though), but never surfed Lahinch itself, surfed Spanish Point and Doonbeag (I think? behind a Golfcourse) instead.

You up this way at all? Looks like it may be good later in week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 15, 2007, 10:30:30 am
Whats it like 2day, land at Scotia at around 3pm....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2007, 11:02:29 am
Flatter than a flounder's cock. Nothing forecast until later in week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on October 15, 2007, 05:14:27 pm
when i hear people from more wave-blessed countries than italy say it's flat, i always ask myself: will it be really flat even for my standards?
will it be so flat that i wouldn't paddle out with my 9'4"?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 15, 2007, 06:04:10 pm
9.4
you know the score..

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 15, 2007, 06:59:18 pm
when i hear people from more wave-blessed countries than italy say it's flat, i always ask myself: will it be really flat even for my standards?
will it be so flat that i wouldn't paddle out with my 9'4"?

Yep - The East Coast and (although more rarely) the West do indeed go proper flat - flatter than witches tits and flounder cocks. The only place I've been where 'flat' still meant rideable waves was Hawaii when it was 'flat' for three days but I still had better waves than many sessions in the UK.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 16, 2007, 08:44:09 am
Nibs, I can post you some links to the webcams if you want. I have seen Aberdeen without barely a ripple breaking on the beach, for a week or so continuously, in midsummer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 16, 2007, 10:06:07 am
Just been reading the article in the new Surfer's Path about new materials for boards.

How cool do the Danny Hess "wood" boards look?

(http://bp1.blogger.com/_hBFYo2ZAWrM/RksXZyYtp-I/AAAAAAAAAEQ/7PPH4VixbdE/s320/roundpin3.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2007, 10:51:46 am
Well last night felt like the last gasp of summer. A small fresh southerly swell arrived and the beach was a free for all before it got dark. Got half a dozen decent rides in, as well as ploughing into someone who moved past in front of me just as I was taking off. At least my board was undamaged. Clocks change on the weekend, depressing. Will have to start doing lunchtime sessions now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 27, 2007, 09:17:44 pm
If you chaps had december and jan off- where would you be surfing? Thinking of costa rica or maybe indo out of season. beginner/intermediate surfer been to fuerte, lanza lookin for somethin more exotic and to get some consistant waves as would be keen to improve. an ideas??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2007, 09:14:28 am
I'm probably not the best person to recommend exotic locations, but Morocco or Portugal could be good? Depends how much cash you have and if you will have transport or not.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2007, 10:24:00 am
Yesterdays Observer Sport Monthly ran a lengthy and previously unpublished interview with Bunker Spreckels by CR Stecyk III from the 70's.

Spreckels was a mysterious and larger than life character, the son of a wealthy industrialist who subsequently became the son of Clark Gable after his father died and mother married again.  He inherited $50m when he was 18 and dropped out of his intended career path to become a surfer.  Unusually for a Haole, he was welcomed with open arms in Hawaii as his father had defended the last 'King' of Oahu and was inducted in various secret rites by the Kahunas.  He pushed the boundaries of surfing in the 70's, experimenting with short boards and lots of hallucinogens often at the same time.  He died in 1977 - drugs 'n stuff.....

Worth reading if you can get your hands on a copy.  I had read a story about Spreckels in an old Surfers Journal but this was very interesting.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2007, 10:30:54 am
If you chaps had december and jan off- where would you be surfing?

Hawaii... Seriously, if I had December and January off work I'd be there like a shot.

Costa Rica and Mexico would probably be a good choice.. lots of variety but I've not been myself.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2007, 11:40:40 am
Yesterdays Observer Sport Monthly ran a lengthy and previously unpublished interview with Bunker Spreckels by CR Stecyk III from the 70's.

Anyone know if Observer ever put these things online? Alternatively, FD can you get it to me sometime?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2007, 06:34:09 pm
Yesterdays Observer Sport Monthly ran a lengthy and previously unpublished interview with Bunker Spreckels by CR Stecyk III from the 70's.

Anyone know if Observer ever put these things online? Alternatively, FD can you get it to me sometime?

http://observer.guardian.co.uk/osm/story/0,,2198124,00.html#article_continue

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 29, 2007, 09:38:19 pm
that interview is priceless :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Somebody's Fool on October 30, 2007, 10:18:35 am
I read that the other day.  Weirdly, he was born in America in 1949 and called Adolph.  Bet there weren't many others in his kindergarten class.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 05, 2007, 10:42:08 am
Yo! been away,,,, just hit Bore, nr Stavanger, Norway,,, Very good, Very cold, Very hospitable,,,  Head high and off shore,,, Sunday... Will comunicate details later, peace and love..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 05, 2007, 02:40:00 pm
When are you back in Abn? looks like something is brewing.......
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 23, 2007, 08:14:56 pm
Been and gone, really am seeing to much of that place. keep missing the wave there, must of been pretty savage the last week or two. Did you scope that board??? to be honest, you could mail order a new one for the same price, just minus  the stuff... Drill gota go...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 24, 2007, 05:43:03 pm
Just read (in a day, its that good), "The search for Captin Zero" Allan Weisenbeck. Fully recomend it from a Howard Marks meets Carlos Castenada  tip...
An account of the Central America travel scene... It even quotes Daniel Daunes book, still trying to locate a copy of that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 25, 2007, 10:59:39 am
There's a sequel - Cosmic Banditos... good too.

Chris - I'm heading up the 'deen tomorrow arvo.  Will bring suit and am staying at the The Patio by the beach. Unfortunatley Tuesday is looking fully booked up with work but if there's still a wave to be had Wednesday morning I'll be around if you are.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 25, 2007, 12:19:01 pm
In the middle of 6 meter swell at the momment, 35 knt wind, just off Abo... must be cranking some where.
Think Cosmic Banditos was the Prequel,,, his writing the sequel now...
good luck next week, looking out for rouge waves., saw one or two in Norway,,, I think!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2007, 09:33:50 am
Aye, Cosmic Banditos is the prequel. He makes reference to it a couple of times in Captain Zero. I liked CZ, some great stories. Felt a bit inconclusive though. 

Parked at beach this morning and waves looked OK, not sure if they will last until wednesday. Can probably do Wednesday earlymorning or Lunchtime surfing FD. Or lunchtime bouldering session at Transition if it's flat. Email or text me.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on November 26, 2007, 11:39:06 am
Yo! been away,,,, just hit Bore, nr Stavanger, Norway,,, Very good, Very cold, Very hospitable,,,  Head high and off shore,,, Sunday... Will comunicate details later, peace and love..


Had Byberg, just N of Bore last weekend, smokin hot, glassy and head high. Nice lefts, there is a 15+ second period swell forcast for the coming weekend, woohoo...
(havin said that, when has a week long forecast ever bin right!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2007, 12:04:19 pm
That's one seriously big low that's forecast at the moment. Pity it won't do much for east coast though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 26, 2007, 12:21:07 pm
35 to 40 feet @ 15+ second period for the West Coast of Ireland on Saturday  :jaw:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2007, 01:56:45 pm
Come on Eileens?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 26, 2007, 09:56:43 pm
Somewhere near Eileens last Tuesday... no skis... heavy looking spot.

(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/37680.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on November 27, 2007, 07:27:23 am
SMOKIN!!
Would have been cooler if some dude was squeeking out the doggy door on the left tho!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 27, 2007, 11:38:07 am
Some clean lines commin thru now, 110 miles of Abo, wind in opposite direction, somewhere.... someone, is surfing!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 30, 2007, 09:25:41 am
Worth a punt...

http://www.purevacations.com/livesurfcams/

ps: If any of you win, you've got to take me.  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 30, 2007, 10:15:32 am
Random bloke vs my bird. Hmmm decisions decisions.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on December 01, 2007, 03:53:44 pm
Random bloke vs my bird. Hmmm decisions decisions.
Oy less of the 'random'.  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2007, 11:25:53 am
After getting her to endure bitter cold conditions at Banff yesterday I think I would be castrated if I didn't take her. Nice waves though.

Looks like Ireland's west coast is going mental.

(http://news.bbc.co.uk/nol/shared/spl/hi/pop_ups/07/uk_tow_surfers/img/1.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on December 03, 2007, 07:25:25 am
Might just be the angle the pic was taken from, but that looks a smidgen bigger than we had yesterday. But it was a nice, clean, long period swell tho, and sun to boot... http://picasaweb.google.com/johan.olofsson/Surf17SecDecember2007
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 03, 2007, 08:27:25 am
There was a nice picture of Mullaghmore in the Observer yesterday.

Nash - Nice little piccies and video... looks quite shallow on the inside at that spot.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 03, 2007, 08:44:36 am
Banff was pretty good on Saturday as well - 3-4 ft and nice clean long period waves. Surfed the point for a bit, but too long to wait between sets so was getting too cold waiting around, so surfed beach for a bit, which was much more productive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 03, 2007, 01:03:32 pm
Here's another viewpoint from the Irish session at the weekend....

(http://www.ireland.com/newspaper/images/2007/1203/frontpageimage.jpg?ts=1196686045)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on December 04, 2007, 09:55:19 am
There was a nice picture of Mullaghmore in the Observer yesterday.

Nash - Nice little piccies and video... looks quite shallow on the inside at that spot.

It is not so bad, the boulders are easy to slalom round once you are on the inside, the take-off is plenty deep. You do however have the spas-walk in and out of the water on slimy rocks, always a joy, and always ends in a ding. It is even worse when we windsurf there, carrying that kit is a touch harder than a 4kg surfboard!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on December 04, 2007, 11:58:47 am
Not a great short video from Ireland...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2GGPtRTsj4
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 05, 2007, 02:29:32 pm
It shows how wild it was in front of the storm - there's a great close shave at -10 secs where someone just misses getting hideously hammered by the lip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on December 06, 2007, 07:12:40 am
That lip at -0:49 seconds look heavy heavy stuff. Nice.

Snuck out for a cheeky 45 mins after work yesterday, but they were a bit gutless. Still, mustn't grumble...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 06, 2007, 10:22:07 am
Lunchtime sessions are the way to go. Warmest part of the day and if i get here early enough and leave late enough i can get two hours in the water (enough at this time of year).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 18, 2007, 02:26:48 pm
Hazaarrrr!!!!!!!! :o

High Pressure and A Fat Storm!! It had to happen at some point didn't it.......  Beefy swell and offshore winds over the weekend here in the South West, the whole North Coast lit up..... Especially Sunday......  Heavy, heavy, heaving low tide Croyde!......  Ireland must have been insane!

Also got some sneaky round the corner sessions in during the period of strong wind and rain a week or so ago..  That left hand reef just in Somerset was on splendid form and packing a punch whilst the coastal beachies served up big blown out drivel. 

Today it's flat again......  Looks like Santa might bring the gift of some nice little swell for Chrimbo though....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 20, 2007, 07:50:52 pm
Well Well Well, you wetsuit washers,,, tuning you from Troncones, Mexico, waves every day till 12.o, 3ft with 5ft sets, various point breaks around, did Rio Nexpa, waters bit dirty,,, going to "the Ranch" 2moro. Acapulco for the new year, then on to Puerto Escondido, then travelling up to Puero Vallarta, calling in anywhere and everywhere, have a good Xmas, and see you in the new one,,,
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: PatKingDebtCollection on December 21, 2007, 05:14:03 pm
Well Well Well, you wetsuit washers,,, tuning you from Troncones, Mexico, waves every day till 12.o, 3ft with 5ft sets, various point breaks around, did Rio Nexpa, waters bit dirty,,, going to "the Ranch" 2moro. Acapulco for the new year, then on to Puerto Escondido, then travelling up to Puero Vallarta, calling in anywhere and everywhere, have a good Xmas, and see you in the new one,,,

 :-\   :furious:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 21, 2007, 10:59:40 pm
 :lol:

Useless Pat was never useless at spending other people's money. Good luck M. Debtcollection. But somehow I think you may need it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 06, 2008, 12:34:16 am
Been pretty big last few days here in Sydney. 8-10ft yesterday afternoon. Not that clean but pretty big

(http://strm-gallery.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/gallery/images/LOTD06012008b_200815224751.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 06, 2008, 11:18:54 am
Did you get out Adam?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 06, 2008, 12:03:13 pm
Did you get out Adam?

Did i fuckers like!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 06, 2008, 04:19:12 pm
 :)

I was just curious thats all..

When you are in a "proper" surfing country and you get a hefty swell it puts it in perspective when you hear people in the UK rattling on about "blah blah blah 6 to 8 foot... triple overhead blah blah"... yeeaah right.  Not that we don't get good surf, but it we really don't get it big very often unlike the Pacific and Indian Ocean coasts.

When you see an 8-10ft swell, you soon realise what a 15ft or 20ft wave would really look like up close, never mind the monsters the tow-in guys are pulling into.

That said, it doesn't take long to get used to bigger waves when you get the opportunity to get out there, especially when its clean and well lined up.  You should put two leashes on and paddle out next time!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 07, 2008, 01:18:37 am
Yeah, thats the thing, if it was a clean swell it would be another story. This was all over the place. That shot makes it look particuarly good. I am also not surfing that often at the moment so am not surf fit. Being fit makes you more confident. Two leashes, never thought of that!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2008, 08:12:43 am
North Sea was massive on Saturday, after 2 days of howling onshores. Went down to Stonehaven for a look and there was the occasional wave that you could have surfed if you were in the right time at the right place. Might have been good yesterday, but opted to go ski touring instead as good conditions for that are even rarer than good surf.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 09, 2008, 11:38:59 pm
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/570_BillabongXXL_200811061310.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 10, 2008, 12:20:41 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcaZarxilJQ

i want to start surfing :[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on January 10, 2008, 07:52:07 am
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/570_BillabongXXL_200811061310.jpg)

Must have taken a while to paddle out to that  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2008, 08:16:14 am

i want to start surfing :[

Why the :[ ?

There is no reason why you can't start.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 10, 2008, 03:27:48 pm
can never get round to it really,
dont know where to start!
what gear do you need?
long board? short board?
i dont mind if it takes longer to learn on a short board.
need something that MIGHT fit in me fiesta!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2008, 04:47:12 pm
Shitty excuses mate. If you really want to do it, pull your finger out.

Get a minimal and a 5/3 suit that fits, then you can decide where you want to go from there; bigger or smaller.

I can fit my minimal in a 2 door corsa, no worries.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 12, 2008, 06:37:30 pm
In Puerto Escondido, Snapped two long boards, been pitted and swatted and pissed every day, two months to go, heavyest break I have ever surfed, and its only been head high....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 15, 2008, 07:31:29 pm
Puerto Escondido pah! (not that I'm jealous or owt!).. you need to start riding a variety of boards Pat.. longboards suck at heavy beach breaks.

Finally a flexible work window coincides with some swell so I'm hitting a couple of secret spots in Yorkshire with a gobby ex-Renegade Master tomorrow and then some more in Northumberland on Thursday with some skinny f*cker who got chinned by Airlie back in t'old days.

Pics to follow if its good...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on January 15, 2008, 07:52:10 pm
longboards suck at heavy beach breaks.


yes, tell that to joel tudor.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 15, 2008, 08:50:05 pm
Tudor rides eggs, stubbies and diamond tails at heavy beach breaks... watch Longer, Shelter etc.

C'mon Nibs.. I mean HEAVY (o'head to double o'head into 2 feet of water) beach break.. Tudor doesn't take his Mals out there.  Remember I ride a 9'6 40 lb single fin too y'know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2008, 08:29:24 am
Finally a flexible work window coincides with some swell so I'm hitting a couple of secret spots in Yorkshire with a gobby ex-Renegade Master tomorrow and then some more in Northumberland on Thursday.

Hope they are sheltered from the wind. Might go for a look at Aberdeen at lunchtime tomorrow, but expect it to be too windy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 16, 2008, 08:38:22 am
gobby ex-Renegade Master

Does he surf as well as he climbed? What does he ride?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 16, 2008, 11:40:48 pm
Big Swell last two days, 6-8 ft, 5 ft at La Punta... leaving here 2moro, going to El Ranch, Totally killing it on the 9.0 getting barrelled then once or twice, surfacing withn two boards...
still learning all the way...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 18, 2008, 11:02:39 am
You lucky bugger... sounds great.

Adam - No (otherwise he'd be in all the mags) but he's very competent.  A standard travelling Brit quiver: a big day board, thrusters and fish.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 18, 2008, 11:23:44 am
How was last 2 days FD? Abs was blown out and toss.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 18, 2008, 11:39:59 am
The last two days were windy, wild and adventurous.

Wednesday was spent at a beautiful secluded left hand point in North Yorkshire.  The swell was a bit raggedy but we were out of the wind.  Just two of us, a big seal and overhead sets.  A snapped leash ended our fun a bit too early and a battering over the boulders to get out.

Thursday we were out on the Northumberland search just before first light. The combination of a massive North swell and Southerly winds really limited options as most of the spots that hold a big Northerly are South facing so these were all blown out.  We ended up at one of the small seaside towns eyeing up a reef that was rideable but might not have been surfed before.  The rip caused by the southerlies meant a constant paddle to stay in position but some good hairy rides were had before the tide dropped out and the reef was sucking dry.

The wind thankfully backed off and swung west so we finished the day at a beach/reef in overhead clean waves. After an hour of great waves I came the closest I have to drowning for 15 years when I duck dived a hollow wave that detonated on my neck, ripped my suit/zip wide open and flushed my entire suit with gallons of freezing water which caused me to sink. I was able to get onto my board and get close to shore but then got caught in the rip and taken out to the line up again where I duck dived another set which flushed my suit again. I was really quite worried at a couple of points that I wasn't going to make it out.  Scary mary...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 18, 2008, 12:08:09 pm
Yikes. Wouldn't want to get that happen ever, let alone in my current state of unfitness.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2008, 10:05:06 am
There's a book out now, as per FDs post about the interview with Bunker Spreckels.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ofcyom%2BNL._AA240_.jpg (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ofcyom%2BNL._AA240_.jpg)

On the subject, are there any other good books about surfers out there? Is Stealing the Wave any good?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 22, 2008, 01:58:37 am
Surfers stories, found it a bit Phsicophantic, but the Occy section was inspiring.
Surfed La Saladita today, its going tropo 2moro, overhead 500mt rides, big sections, take off, make the wall, small cover ups, thats the first 100 mts then nose to tail all the way, its on the low so gotta watch the cobble stone reef, my first point break since Rio Nexpa, one board left (9,6 stewart hydrohull) going to tear it apart ( broken finger, damn those mexican hung hamocks) peace...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 22, 2008, 10:13:56 am
Chris - I got Stealing the Wave for Christmas but haven't read it yet.  Andy Martin has always been obsessed by Foo and Bradshaw and he's a pretty good writer so it could be worthwhile.

There's a new book out this month that looks really good. A bunch of essays on modern surfing (crowds, internet, travel, neo-soul surfing, etc.) that looks really good but the name escapes me. There's a review on the Mag Seaweed news section.

Nic bought me a copy of Ether for Chrimbo that arrived late. Its a beautiful hardbound, screen printed 15" x 12" 200 page limited edition of photo's and essays by Andrew Kidman (Litmus and Glass love) - have a look at litmus.com.au .

Idol - I'm very jealous... (particularly as its also 5am and I'm up and jetlagged in DC).

 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 22, 2008, 10:30:36 am
Chris - I got Stealing the Wave for Christmas but haven't read it yet.  Andy Martin has always been obsessed by Foo and Bradshaw and he's a pretty good writer so it could be worthwhile.

Not a great great book, but certainly readable. I read it on a recent trip to the Grampians, and took me a couple of days. If a  dont read a book in a few days, i get bored. So its not that bad. Just goes on a bit. Plus the section with Foo, i knew the story already, so that dragged a bit.

Be interesting to know what you think about it. I have yet to find an outstanding surfing book. Pipedreams, the Slater Bio was dull. Hell, i read the stormrider most nights!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 22, 2008, 12:40:46 pm
>I have yet to find an outstanding surfing book

Caught Inside by Dan Duane - the best by a mile and then some.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 22, 2008, 04:45:36 pm
Weird, surfed Salita today with Allan Wisenbeck, my chick knows him well from Tobago where he wrote his new book, 'Can't get along with anybody'. if you want agood book, the two previous numbers i found excellent.
still trying to find Caught Inside.
Totally killed it today, overhead sets, 350 mts rides (the take off point walled out, so the shoulder was the easy option.
nearly did my first helicopter, but wobbled...
out at dawn, with a full orange moon watching us,,,
wow...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 23, 2008, 07:15:17 pm
Far Out, today, I surfed with Gidget, for real....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 25, 2008, 03:16:19 pm
Idol...  Spare a thought.......  Whilst you are having what appears to be an epic trip with epic waves..  I have just spent the morning grovelling in cold brown slop at Lynmouth..  No sign of Gidget here.... and to add insult to injury.. I managed to sheer off a fin on a shallow rock!! Good times!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Houdini on January 25, 2008, 03:20:46 pm
Gidget


You surfed w/a girl midget?

I'd pay money to see smurfing gidgets - oh - I mean surfing midgets.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on January 25, 2008, 03:34:32 pm
I'd pay money to see smurfing gidgets - oh - I mean surfing midgets.

How much for kick-boxing midgets?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i38X8GA0wAY

Apologies for being  :off:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Houdini on January 25, 2008, 03:50:34 pm
(W O W - that chap in blue trunks has one slammin' R hook!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2008, 06:29:15 pm
Gidget


You surfed w/a girl midget?

Noooo!

(http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/pic/MG/143994~Gidget-Posters.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 05, 2008, 04:21:49 pm
Stumbled across some rather nice pics on flickr...

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/67/170561047_37081bc5a6_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/konaboy/170561047/in/set-72157594195952459/)

More in the guys stream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/konaboy/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 05, 2008, 04:28:11 pm
East Coast this weekend was truly awesome. Low tide was unfavourably early but my mate and me had one of the points to ourselves for a few hours. 8-10 ft beasts rolling in  :jaw:and a backdrop of snow covered fields made for a great mornings surf, if a little terrifying. The afternoon was a slightly more friendly 3-5ft at south bay.
Was surprised at how few people there were for a great swell. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on February 05, 2008, 07:07:56 pm
Hello.. bit of a newbie. got back from 2 months in costa rica and got withdrawl symptoms from surfing... thinking of braving the ocean over here. living in sheff for most of march.. any you guys got any advice. guess east coast is the way forward. ?? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 05, 2008, 08:01:44 pm
Here's one that could be in non-climbing vids/this thread/the wonders of HiDef video/Deaf fit birds who go surfing or a unique thread all of it's own...

http://www.adobe.com/products/hdvideo/hdgallery/ ...and click on 'Surfing in slow motion'. The big ones (720/1080) need a good video card to play smoothly, but BOY do they look good. I particularly appreciate the quality of the HD video roughly halfway through the film.  :bow: :o ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 05, 2008, 08:59:14 pm
We'll she may be deaf, I couldn't tell from the film... however many times I watched it .  :oops:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 07, 2008, 02:17:52 pm
I took this just before getting in on sat morn.
(http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=46307)
Curly Ben - from sheffield east coast is where it's at. Cold but tres bien.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 07, 2008, 02:20:52 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=46307
Didn't work so here is link.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 07, 2008, 02:30:26 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=46307
Didn't work so here is link.

That's cause you tried to embed the URL for the web-page as opposed to the URL for the image itself...

(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/46307.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 07, 2008, 02:34:42 pm
thanks :great:
When you get the webpage up, do you then right click the image to do that. I am a computer retard-o.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 07, 2008, 02:43:21 pm
thanks :great:
When you get the webpage up, do you then right click the image to do that. I am a computer retard-o.

Right-click on the image and select "Open in new [tab/window]" (depends on what browser your using.  That'll open the picture with its own URL in the NavBar, copy and paste that in using the image tags (the third button from the left on the second row).  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 07, 2008, 02:45:44 pm
sweet
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 07, 2008, 09:52:16 pm
Bit of a weird week, Solid south swell and a north westerly met and a new reef come out of nowhere, it was a weird sucky barrel like mutant, so we me and a goatboater paddled out to it (its offshore). convinced him it was a playboat wave, he got worked, and we bailed.
Want to start paddle boarding....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 14, 2008, 03:03:54 pm
East Coast this weekend was truly awesome. Low tide was unfavourably early but my mate and me had one of the points to ourselves for a few hours. 8-10 ft beasts rolling in  :jaw:and a backdrop of snow covered fields made for a great mornings surf, if a little terrifying. The afternoon was a slightly more friendly 3-5ft at south bay.
I knew it would be good, I was away.

Curly ben, get yourself a decent wettie, and keep watching the charts.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 18, 2008, 12:09:11 am
Surfed El Faro today, in Nayrit (Saluilita).
5ft long rt hand point break, the first right hander of the trip.
been surfing The Ranch also with totall Legends, any one heard of Corky? me neither, the septics worship him.... also The Tank, all loggers...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on February 18, 2008, 08:22:09 pm
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 19, 2008, 01:00:13 am
Surfed El Faro today, in Nayrit (Saluilita).
5ft long rt hand point break, the first right hander of the trip.
been surfing The Ranch also with totall Legends, any one heard of Corky? me neither, the septics worship him.... also The Tank, all loggers...

Corky Carroll ? Yeah - he held the crown for a while in the late sixties.  Sounds like you're having a good trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 19, 2008, 08:53:08 am
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea

Mate, you will need boots and gloves at this time of year, and a hood.

I just got some of these and they are so good. http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html (http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on February 20, 2008, 04:37:12 pm
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea

Mate, you will need boots and gloves at this time of year, and a hood.

I just got some of these and they are so good. http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html (http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html)

bloody hell those things look crazy. heard good things about the brand tho..You could deffo do some damage with those!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 20, 2008, 07:50:44 pm
Yeah, Corky Carroll.
Just read another good book. Big Drop, by one of our own John Long,,, big wave stories...
Surfed Sayulita on a good 4ft swell, back at Salidita, sold my Stewart (Gutted), and bought an ultra lite 9.0 (yeah).
Nayrit has some good Granite...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on February 21, 2008, 05:47:07 pm
tasty pics dangereux.. is that really east coast!? man im impressed. SA i have got myself a decent wettie. im not sure how my fingers and toes will react to ocean temps! ive benn used to boardies and sweating in the water.In training in norway ice climbing at the mo. Back in sheff for march... any surfers in sheff want a lift or company PM? I am badly missing the sea

Mate, you will need boots and gloves at this time of year, and a hood.

I just got some of these and they are so good. http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html (http://www.surfstation.co.uk/acatalog/5mm_3finger_gloves_.html)


Is it worth getting boots and gloves from the same company as wetsuit? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2008, 06:16:05 pm
have heard they are pretty good, but not used one myself.

Need to be a 5/3 or so. Wetsuits are like rockshoes; try on loads, a good fit is as important as a good make.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Carnage on February 22, 2008, 03:28:59 am
I'm not much of a surfer (I stick to my body board - I'm getting used to the shouts of 'Why din't ya stand up ya fackin' sponger") but it looks good here at the w/e

http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=3900&state=NSW&t=8:51:58%20AM&camName=Maroubra
 
"Forecast issued 12.30pm Wednesday, 20th February, 2008.

Short Forecast: Thursday ENE swell 2 3ft rising to 3 4ft later with SSE winds. Further rise to 4 6ft Friday with light winds.

An epic ENE groundswell on track for this weekend.
As discussed in previous forecasts this presents us with an ideal scenario for Sydney and the South Coast; the swell producing winds will remain well offshore, spanning much of the central and north-eastern Tasman Sea with, with a broad belt of twenty to twenty five knot winds compounded by stronger thirty five to forty knot winds close to the centre of the storm.

The head of the fetch is centred about 900 kilometres ENE of Sydney and the South Coast thats long enough to allow the swell to get well organised into orderly lines without undergoing significant erosion.

The resulting swell should be solid but not large enough to overwhelm many east facing beaches along the coast so there well be no shortage of rideable options, especially considering the other key factor local winds are expected to be about as good as you could hope for, thanks to a large frontal system tracking beneath the continent on Friday and Saturday.

This significant area of low pressure will eventually evolve into a swell producing system in its own right early next week, but before this occurs well see a cold front pushing eastward across the state generating a strong WSW change on Saturday morning, leading in a moderate westerly flow across the NSW coast that should persist throughout Sunday.

The end result is three and a half days of excellent surf preceding the arrival of a SSE change on Monday afternoon, blowing out leftover E swell in the three foot range"
 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 22, 2008, 08:43:24 am
FD, not sure you got pic up properly.

Carnage, sounds as good as it gets. I expect carnage at busier breaks. Time for you and controlfreak to work the noodle arms.

Make the step from sponge to surfboard. I did a few years back and have never regretted it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 23, 2008, 11:39:28 am
Yorkshire.... a couple of weeks back.  Check the surfer in the bottom left for scale.

(https://www.fastmail.fm/mail/?MLS=LN-*&Ust=71a60386!2ec741a8&UDm=3797&MSignal=MB-*)


Good huh?



we can't see that image :)

looking at the link it's inside your mailbox!


Could you do me a favour and delete the link and I'll repost...

Ta
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on February 23, 2008, 12:11:36 pm
done...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 26, 2008, 12:38:21 pm
(http://www.benroaming.fastmail.co.uk/eugene.jpg)

Tried again.... (Hope it works this time) A Yorkshire Secret Spot taken the same day that Dangereux' pics were...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on February 26, 2008, 12:54:48 pm
Jeez  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2008, 01:24:43 pm
Shit the bed. Crazy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on February 26, 2008, 02:00:59 pm
 :o indeed. What time of day was that? I know quite a few spots between scarborough and middlesbrough but are mainly low - mid tide spots.
We did go for a walk before getting back in for the afternoon session and saw an awesome looking left that looks a similar size to your beast but no-one was on it. It did have a monstrous walk or paddle to get to it tho.

For some ridiculous international rhino's www.billabongxxl.com has some Ireland too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 26, 2008, 02:20:20 pm
Fuck me! Giant brown barrels - welcome to Yorkshire! That is a punter bottom left, right?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 26, 2008, 02:30:14 pm
It's a low-mid tide venue - pretty well known for a secret spot.  I've ridden it a few times; never bigger than half the size than in that particular shot mind you but even when it's smaller it's still class A.  When it's on; it is (like many others that grace our shores) a truly world class wave, up there in the top 50 but, as with many UK spots, the swell window is so narrow that it is often weeks between decent swells.

I didn't take the picture - my mate who is friends with the guy in the bottom left sent it over so I'm not sure what time it was taken... I think was the 2nd feb when that hefty swell hit the East Coast.

Just goes to show that we do get decent surf though eh?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2008, 03:17:53 pm
the swell window is so narrow that it is often weeks months between decent swells.

Just goes to show that we do get decent surf though eh?

Yes, occasionally. Sadly pretty few and far between for the East Coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 27, 2008, 11:06:18 am
What these pictures don't really show is just how fast, violent, noisy and overwhelming it can be when out in heavy conditions.

The still image of a surfer calmly composed in a frozen barrel is a far cry from what it actually feels like, video captures it a little better but not by much.

I'll be here in two weeks time for 15 days  :bounce:

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player.cfm?id=4561 (http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player.cfm?id=4561)

Some nice Soup Bowl barrels (be patient with the flash advert intro).. the guy in the yellow top is geordie Sam Lamiroy who actually won the contest that year.  I was out with a local guy this time last year who said that Sam surfed Soup Bowls better than Kelly Slater which is no mean feat (Youtube clip of KL at SB from Sipping Jetstreams).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjCPHFAmLJM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjCPHFAmLJM)

(I still can't work out how to do this YouTube embedding ting)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 27, 2008, 11:15:52 am
FD - Just highlight and copy the end of the youtube url thing - in your case rjCPHFAmLJM - click the youtube icon so you get this   [youtube =425,350][/youtube ] and paste the code in the gap between the youtube thingys so....

[ youtube=425,350]rjCPHFAmLJM [/ youtube]

(except without the spaces)

Hey presto

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjCPHFAmLJM
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on February 27, 2008, 11:30:25 am
What these pictures don't really show is just how fast, violent, noisy and overwhelming it can be when out in heavy conditions.
I can imagine it's mental - the little white water kayaking i've done was an eye-opener to the violence of water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 27, 2008, 06:07:49 pm
Thanks Jasper...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 29, 2008, 06:28:27 pm
Fuck me! Giant brown barrels - welcome to Yorkshire! That is a punter bottom left, right?
If it is i hope he has mastered the duck dive!  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: AndyR on February 29, 2008, 07:26:42 pm
Fuck me! Giant brown barrels - welcome to Yorkshire! That is a punter bottom left, right?
Ha - looks like a giant wave of Bisto!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 11, 2008, 06:20:36 pm
Back in the Briney, Big waves, going to go mad....
No surfboards, just sold my fire wire Flexi 6.6, And going to invest in a 9.0 Firewire squash tail...
Or a Chris jones 10.2
Watching the bay close out, close out, close out, then someone snatches a peeling barrel, Fistral is suicide, Missing Mex already made some great friends... recommend it to everyone, Doing the same trip next year 4 shore... Got details of some amazing Rooms and hotels. Be well...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 13, 2008, 02:48:47 pm
Fistral is fireing five foot barrels, Its fucking cold though!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 13, 2008, 10:31:28 pm
Day 3 in Barbados..

Monday morning on my first day at Soup Bowls I broke two leashes and had my rash vest ripped off and lost to the sea - welcome back Ben.  The swell has dropped to 6ft with a short period so its pretty choppy and messy but still nice to be out in boardies and sunscreen.  I got nailed in the face with fire coral this morning whilst bodysurfing on the West Coat so I've been rinsing my pretty visage with my own piss and necking Advil and Guiness since lunchtime. The forecast is for more trade swell until Tuesday next week when a big Northerly (9ft+ @ 17 seconds) is due to roll in so I'm looking forward to surfing the West Coast spots over the Easter Weekend.

Adios hombres..


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 14, 2008, 05:30:39 pm
Is Freights on the west coast? do you know Mitch, from the Gun Club? have a good one....
Fistral, 1 ft and very clean,,,,
Want to go to El Salividor
Falling, Other peoples piss is better for you, thats what my misses sez anywaze.
"I can take about an hour, on the tower of power, as long as I gets a little golden shower"... name that tune...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 16, 2008, 10:29:24 pm
Freights is South Coast, below the airport and a good longboard wave. We don't know Mitch as we tend to stay at Bathsheba away from the busy South but know Mark, Hoggy and other locals here on the East Coast.  It's been small and choppy the last couple of days but it still beats cold water and working....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 17, 2008, 12:10:14 pm
Her brother is comming over tonight, look out, big Ben Baird is about!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 18, 2008, 10:32:21 pm
The forecast for the next three days is mental... Thursday looks like 12ft at 17 seconds... time to seek shelter on the West Coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 20, 2008, 09:38:06 pm
Biggest swell on record they reckon! Parlours is going to be the main one, going to hook up to smokeys web cam at Bathshebas 2moro, Ben and Matt Capell n co are all out to hit this, they going off b4 they left!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 24, 2008, 02:46:53 pm
The East Coast was unrideable from Wednesday night through to Saturday lunchtime.  Bathsheba bay was closing out completely way outside of Tent Bay, Parlors and Soup Bowl with huge sucking monsters.  Barclays Park further North turned into an enormous never before seen Left Hand Point Break that could have been ridden with a tow board had there been anywhere safe to launch a jet ski.  The pic below shows Bathsheba on Thursday morning....

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3294/2358241668_f28d2f3683.jpg?v=0)

The West Coast was going off from Wednesday to Saturday... more pics and a full trip report sometime this week. We are flying home tonight....  :(

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 25, 2008, 10:56:18 am
Yeah, Been on a downer since we have been back!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2008, 10:10:12 am
Managed one post work session before clocks change. Got in Wednesday nght, shitty and high tide when we got in, but got better as the tide dropped. Really learning to love the Fish, got some good lefts on it. New X-Cel 5:4 wetty and 3 finger gloves are the shit. Only got cold changing afterwards in the dark. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 29, 2008, 10:43:49 am
Last two days have been allright!!! woke up to The Cribber pounding the rocks this morning,it cross shore should get a bit better if the wind backs down, tis 7 ft at Fistral, and about 5ft in the bay!!! bit cross shore. Its still fackin cold though!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 30, 2008, 10:23:50 am
Sat, 4ft too offshore!!! good for nose riding, did an off the top, and the board just flew away!!! Cribber is still on...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 31, 2008, 02:47:54 pm
Yesterday (Sunday) evening just after low (if it can be described as that!) tide..  North Coast, Exmoor .. Devon.  You all know the spot.....  boulder bottom left hand point break!  (Haven't been in for weeks, very focused on bouldering at the mo...)  Sun was shining, epic sunset and to top it all wind turns straight off shore...... perfection peeling down the reef like a machine....  As you dream this spot to be and what a back drop when you're waiting on your wave.  Straight in my mate takes off on one and disappears for ages...... before appearing back in the line up with the biggest grin on his face...  "I think that's the longest wave I've ever had!"...  I lost count of the number of turns I did on my first wave!  Session continued in this manner with only the occasional shut down.  My final wave just went on and on and on.  It felt like the right moment to get out and besides I couldn't face another long paddle back round to the line up!  Just thought I'd share the stoke of when it all comes together.  The bouldering at this spot is superb as well...  Good times!   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2008, 03:25:34 pm
Aberdeen was producing on a good southerly swell yesterday, good for the regular footers for a change. Nice sunny weather too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 31, 2008, 06:45:19 pm
Good to see some waves coming in when the clocks change. Always feels like turning a corner into Spring... I didn't surf mind but it's only 40 days 'til I go to Indo  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2008, 09:20:54 pm
FD shout if you are up this way any time between now and then. Would love to do an Indo trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 01, 2008, 01:43:44 pm
Actually me and Mrs FD might be up over the weekend of the 12th (wknd after next) and I'll be there until the 18th.  Dave has one of my boards in storage and I'll bring a wettie depending on the forecast. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 01, 2008, 02:05:00 pm
Cool, let me know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 08:31:09 am
Bustin down the door, Rabbit, Good Book!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on April 03, 2008, 11:48:37 am
Tried that there stand-up paddle surfing last night for the first time. I have windsurfed for over 20 yrs and surfed for 14 years and was expecting it to be a breeze. Er... NO. Firkin desperate. Total newbie stage. It was a really nice day 4-5ft glassy, and even sunny. Perhaps a bit big, but I paddled out on my belly with the paddle under me. Wobbling around out back was kind of ok (fell in about every 2 mins), but steering and turning to get on a wave was gnarly and trying to steer an 11'6'' when on the wave was a giggle. All in all, can't be arsed to go back to a newbie stage in another sport. I'll stick to surf and windsurf. 
Just thought I'd let you know if anyone else was thinking of becoming the new Lard Laird Hamilton. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 03, 2008, 12:19:13 pm
I watched a couple of guys in Barbados stand up paddle surfing who were pretty good at it and coping well with 4 to 5 ft conditions and doing some nice drop-knee with paddle turns.  But I'm not entirely convinced by it to be honest...

I can see the attraction in certain places; in Waikiki for example there are about a dozen breaks from Diamond Head up to Ala Moana's and a lot of the old surfing tradition there is to start at Diamond Head and paddle North catching a ride at each break.  I did this one day on a big open ocean paddle board that a friend lent me and it was great fun, tiring and going from break to break means you aren't hogging the waves.  There's also outrigger canoeists suring out there too so someone doing the stand-up paddle boarding is kind of a development from the longboarding/waterman tradition and would allow one to link up rides between reefs like the old beach boys used to do with their Blake era hollow boards.

However, I can't think of many (any?) places in the UK where there's a similar break topography and whilst I'm not advocating water craft fascism I just think a stand-up paddle board in the UK is a bit kooky.  Like going clean aid climbing at Millstone or wearing a Homer Simpson tie at work...  :shrug:



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 03, 2008, 12:34:00 pm
Like going clean aid climbing at Millstone  :shrug:


Whats that you say (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=37408)?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 10:24:02 pm
Dunno! few people round this way are on it, I am keen to train and get good for the severn bore around Sept! Tim Mellors is showing of at the mo, and Salidita some guy from Montauk was on it, this place is good to go as the outer reefs are to eppie to Long board, the goat boater did ok!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 10:25:41 pm
But I am captin Kook!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Houdini on April 03, 2008, 10:38:04 pm
Read Hunter S Thompons' CURSE OF LONO

A rare but re-issued (and not so rare, but pricy & worth it) A2 format book w/ Ralph Steadman full colour illustrations.  The madness of the text loosly follows the last journey of Cook and has some interesting parallels w/ Thompson and Steadmans' coverage of the Honolulu marathon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 03, 2008, 11:17:09 pm
Will do!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 09, 2008, 06:11:48 pm
You chaps no much about surf in soloman islands or possibly east timor?? found a few bits and bobs on line. potential for work on three month basis.would be keen to surf as well!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jerry Morefat on April 09, 2008, 07:32:32 pm
Soloman islands are pretty knarly 'out back' from my experience. I'd take your foamy back to Sennin if I were you Ben.  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 10, 2008, 05:19:28 pm
HA HA HA Barrack. we'll call it quits then. Climb next week.? Actualy soloman islands do look pretty gnarly.. political unrest etc. Could be a bit of an adventure. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on April 10, 2008, 07:59:15 pm
HA HA HA Barrack. we'll call it quits then. Climb next week.? Actualy soloman islands do look pretty gnarly.. political unrest etc. Could be a bit of an adventure. 

Ben,

do some work you loafing fool.



I'm not jealous





no




really





DoH!

BTW, you got that Patriot off yr old man yet?? You got some trails to do dude  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 12, 2008, 01:17:45 pm
Ha ha.... I will pay the price for this loafing for sure! fun at the mo tho! Yep ill bring the bike up.. you should see me on a downhill trail tho. Complete lack of control. not my strongest discipline for sure... generally end up twisting/tweaking something every session. and been a few years since ive been out. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2008, 07:06:21 pm
(http://www.surferspath.com/mmw/140408/mmw.jpg)
this is just to good not to share.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 14, 2008, 07:15:02 pm
Thats got to be Pipeline??? 2nd reef?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2008, 07:18:33 pm
must be 2nd reef!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 14, 2008, 07:25:13 pm
I would love to watch the pipe masters, its the closest I will ever get to being on it!!! do not think many Brits charge it!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2008, 07:29:44 pm
i'd pay alot of money just to hear a pipeline or mavericks or jaws bomb going off.
the moment the lip hits the water below must be worth hearing live.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2008, 07:40:52 pm
i'd pay alot of money just to hear a pipeline or mavericks or jaws bomb going off.
the moment the lip hits the water below must be worth hearing live.

Almost this time last year, i was in the Santa Cruz area, so thought id go and find Mavericks. Not that hard if you do a search on google! Got there and it was pretty flat. I was gutted. I kind of expected pounding 40 footers.... Nice place though and even when flat has a spooky feeling about the place!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 14, 2008, 10:23:34 pm
I'd pay alto of money just to hear a pipeline or mavericks or jaws bomb going off.
the moment the lip hits the water below must be worth hearing live.

You know, Its absolutely fantastic audio stimulation, combined with adrenaline and fear when that metallic clattering impact of the lip is detonating towards you. A five foot wave makes this, Imagine the double figure ones???
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 15, 2008, 08:36:16 am
Biggest waves I have seen were at Victoria Bay near George in SA. Usually a great point break, but was closing out right across the bay and pounding. Walked out to the point to get close (torrential rain) and one wave hit the sea wall (2 ft wide stone and concrete) which promptly collapsed. Amazing to see.

(http://www.kapstadt.de/images/gardenvictoriabay_510.jpg)

Vic Bay on a mellow day. By parents have just moved to 10 mins away.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 15, 2008, 12:31:43 pm
Biggest I have seen was in the Hurricane swell, Sept, 2006, (Gold Rush #1).
Zorbas outside, perfect A frame. Pumping with the offshore howling.... no one rode it that day, and the sth wst big wave crew where all out!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 20, 2008, 05:29:47 pm
New board, 10.o Gordon + Smith Californian tri stringer, 50 50 rails, bit heavy...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2008, 04:06:28 pm
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 23, 2008, 03:22:38 pm
When I click on the link my e-mail browser opens... ???
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2008, 04:00:44 pm
I have no idea how i did that, or if that was even possible?

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg)

Second attempt
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 24, 2008, 09:15:00 am
Ah.. I saw that had been published and will get around to reading it.  I just hope the author has done a proper job and explored some of Dora's clearly unpleasant character flaws as well as his talent.  He's an interesting character....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 24, 2008, 12:55:40 pm
Thought I'd talk about surfing in the right place for a change.

Llantwitt local Nate Phillips has been known to charge Pipe and others spots in Hawaii..

Can anyone confirm or deny that Llantwit Major is like a crap mirror version of Lynmouth?  Heard it was classic on it's day been there when swell was too small and the set up didn't look as good as Lyndaka or were my eyes decieving me.  All my relatives are in South Wales so always take my board just in case, normally go to the Gower though.

Got up at six today, to take advantage of swell and southerly winds at ....... you'll never guess where...... Lynmouth.  Solid 3 to 4 ft and peachy clean 2 others in, wind switched west and ruined it by nine.  Who needs exotic locations when you can get perfection and quiet waves for 2 hours before work?  (OK so I had to wait several weeks!)
A chap arrived at nine, he didn't need to ask, just saw the smile on my face and drew his own conclusion.  He drove away cursing about not getting up early enough! The early bird catches the worm. :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2008, 01:29:54 pm
When I used to work in S Wales I stopped in at Ogmore and Llan Major once or twice to check them out, but never saw them really working that well. Enough to inspire me to get in, put it that way. Not seen it in a decent swell so can't confirm quality, but you would suppose it would be a bit better known if it was as good. Got Rest Bay on a nice swell once or twice, but usually ended up at Llangenith or occasionally at Caswell if it was big (quite busy when it is) or Horton in huge storm swell (westerly is Offshore there).

I'm lucky enough to work 20 min walk from the  beach and work flexi hours, so can often get dawnies in, and catch Sunrise on the East Coast. Just a pity it's Aberdeen.

Regarding our earlier goofy / reg discussion, my girlfirend is the only goof I know who likes to ride backhand. Guess it's from too many years of snowboarding. Works for me though, as it means we both prefer rights!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 25, 2008, 03:07:01 pm
Yeh! It's great to be be close to the surf..  10 minutes from my house to Croyde (the finest beach break in the UK?!). We can afford to be choosy about when to surf, I feel sorry for people that book a week off work, come down here and end up surfing slop because they've no other choice!  I work flexi too, so can work around tides etc..  also handy for climbing and day light hours in the winter!!

I do like going right and have been known to pull into the odd back hand barrel here and there...  particularly into the mystery right at Lynmouth when it's working it barrels splendidly... However, it's so much easier to generate speed on your forehand and you can see right down the line which makes lining up lip smackage and floaters so much easier.  Plus you don't have to muck about grabbing rails in a pigdog stance on powerful waves on your forehand!!!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2008, 03:17:49 pm
10 minutes from my house to Croyde (the finest beach break in the UK?!)


You jest surely? Finest by what criteria? Consistency? Quality? Crowds?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 28, 2008, 05:10:20 pm
Fistral fired five foot flawless.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 28, 2008, 09:30:56 pm
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 28, 2008, 09:33:21 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 02, 2008, 06:17:27 pm
Err! Shark attack at Troncones!!! American on two week surfing vacation gets wacked on day two! killed, Tiger Shark!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 02, 2008, 06:32:20 pm
Correction, Two whites have been spotted! LA times are running a story!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 02, 2008, 06:33:49 pm
Underwater times.com for a picture of the 15" chomp out of the guys rt thigh (its gruesome)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2008, 09:01:33 am
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested

Sounds good. Got Eddie would go,.... Captain Zero, or Magic Carpet if you want a swap.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 05, 2008, 03:28:26 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.

Where are you going?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 05, 2008, 08:57:49 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.

Where are you going?

Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 05, 2008, 09:05:20 pm
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested

Sounds good. Got Eddie would go,.... Captain Zero, or Magic Carpet if you want a swap.


Check Pm
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 06, 2008, 11:14:01 am
Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.

Nice to have such a flexible schedule!  Oldfella from off here is now in Oz but was planning a G-Land trip sometime this Summer so he might have some info on where to stay.  I've heard Nias and the Hikano's were quite damaged by the two Tsunami's and aren't what they used to be... maybe Laykey might be a better choice?  I'm off on a 2 week boat trip to the Banyaks and Simulue a week on Wednesday so have been watching the charts and weather forecast with interest.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 07, 2008, 11:28:16 pm
Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.

Nice to have such a flexible schedule!  Oldfella from off here is now in Oz but was planning a G-Land trip sometime this Summer so he might have some info on where to stay.  I've heard Nias and the Hikano's were quite damaged by the two Tsunami's and aren't what they used to be... maybe Laykey might be a better choice?  I'm off on a 2 week boat trip to the Banyaks and Simulue a week on Wednesday so have been watching the charts and weather forecast with interest.

aghh G land.. i can dream. I think i would have delusions of grandeur attempting to surf it when things are pumping! leaving on the 16th. I think i will hunker down around bali for a bit and get my paddling arms back first.. Im off on the 16th. Reckon there will be plenty of swell......but hopefully not too much?! hehe
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 08, 2008, 08:03:19 am
so when you leaving :)? I'm well jealous.

Looking into buying a longboard for practically flat N Sea summer months. Not sure wether to go for a custom board (probably Martin McQueen) or maybe get a cheapie Take Off, not decided.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 08, 2008, 10:26:19 am
16th May? We're heading out on the 14th but we'll be a few hundred K's away in Northwest Sumatra on this boat http://www.banyakislands.com/ (http://www.banyakislands.com/) for a couple of weeks getting some uncrowded perfection.  If you were hoping for an easy start you might be in for a shock judging by Surflines forecast from this morning. :-)

Extended Forecast Outlook:Note: all dates and times are local Indonesian time. Surfline offers this forecast on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The South Indian Ocean is having another active fall season (only after a very strong summer storm track) and we are expecting the storm track to stay active. We had a small but fairly strong fetch in the SW Indian Ocean and this looks to send in some building head high plus SW groundswell for Thursday, the 8th, and then we will be expecting mostly chest to head high plus SW swell into Friday, May 9th. We had a solid storm system down under earlier in the week and we will see some building longer period SW groundswell for late Friday and this swell will peak into Saturday and stay strong into Sunday morning with head high plus to double overhead surf from the Mentawais to Bali and the premier SW facing reefs should see sets in the triple overhead range.

Further out, we will see a few more strong but smaller scale storm systems move through down under over the next several days and our next SW groundswell will build in on Monday for Java with more head high plus surf and getting stronger into the afternoon with sets running around the double overhead mark and this should stay strong into early Tuesday for Eastern Java/Bali. Another solid SW groundswell will most likely be in the water for Wednesday with some larger surf and then fading but still head high plus to overhead surf would settle in for Thursday, May 15th. The long range models are showing one more strong system down under and this would set up some more solid SW to SSW swell for around late Thursday/Friday, May 16th."


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 08, 2008, 11:32:27 am
16th May? We're heading out on the 14th but we'll be a few hundred K's away in Northwest Sumatra on this boat http://www.banyakislands.com/ (http://www.banyakislands.com/) for a couple of weeks getting some uncrowded perfection.  If you were hoping for an easy start you might be in for a shock judging by Surflines forecast from this morning. :-)

Extended Forecast Outlook:Note: all dates and times are local Indonesian time. Surfline offers this forecast on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The South Indian Ocean is having another active fall season (only after a very strong summer storm track) and we are expecting the storm track to stay active. We had a small but fairly strong fetch in the SW Indian Ocean and this looks to send in some building head high plus SW groundswell for Thursday, the 8th, and then we will be expecting mostly chest to head high plus SW swell into Friday, May 9th. We had a solid storm system down under earlier in the week and we will see some building longer period SW groundswell for late Friday and this swell will peak into Saturday and stay strong into Sunday morning with head high plus to double overhead surf from the Mentawais to Bali and the premier SW facing reefs should see sets in the triple overhead range.

Further out, we will see a few more strong but smaller scale storm systems move through down under over the next several days and our next SW groundswell will build in on Monday for Java with more head high plus surf and getting stronger into the afternoon with sets running around the double overhead mark and this should stay strong into early Tuesday for Eastern Java/Bali. Another solid SW groundswell will most likely be in the water for Wednesday with some larger surf and then fading but still head high plus to overhead surf would settle in for Thursday, May 15th. The long range models are showing one more strong system down under and this would set up some more solid SW to SSW swell for around late Thursday/Friday, May 16th."


Ha ha you have provoked me into more pool sessions in preparation for the madness of indo. That website is rather neat! looks a top outfit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 13, 2008, 06:20:57 pm
Live Billabong Pro from Chopes - streaming now on the Billabong Site.  The swell is small but it's still cool to watch live surfing from the other side of the world.

http://www.billabongpro.com/ (http://www.billabongpro.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on May 17, 2008, 10:01:12 pm
ahh, the joy of being in the water again after months.
today i made the big move to the sea, the van loaded with tons of furnitures, climbing stuff, clothes and obviously a red, fast, 9'2" long.
we got to the sea and was quite flat at the harbour, but i know my beaches and went straight to the rocky point. ta daa, 3 feet, clean, off shore.
it's been a very nice way to start my stay here!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2008, 08:27:54 am
I think it can only be a positive sign that it was mean to be. Bon Chance.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 26, 2008, 10:45:37 am
2nd Fatal attack 10 miles north of Troncones, no attacks since 1976 on the whole pacific coast, then two in the space of a month.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on May 28, 2008, 08:10:49 am
absolutely clean this morning, sadly seen from the car on the way to work.
must check weather forecast more often.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 28, 2008, 08:29:02 am
And get up earlier! Hoping for first dawnie of the year tomorrow. If wind drops enough.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 28, 2008, 01:22:43 pm
It's that time of year again... The water's warming nicely and rubber is being shed..  No more hood, gloves or booties down this way now...  No more ice cream head and getting flushed is actually quite a pleasureable experience.  Would someone please switch on the waves  :furious: 

I find myself getting excited about the 10sec 4ft swell, with light offshores, that is arriving tommorow, low tide Croyde sunset session is on, if I crouch up really small I might just squeeze into a mini summer barrel. 

Summer, Can Beat: piddle waves, super extended flat spells, masses of straight liners repeatedly dropping-in left, right and centre, crappy drivers who can't reverse blocking the lanes, litter on the beaches, crowds, crowds and more crowds, sunburn, stressed out locals getting aggitated with everyone (sorry  :whistle:), ........

Thinking positive..

Summer, Can't beat: mellow waves, warm(ish) water, chatting and banter with mates 'out the back', trying to rip up 2 footers, chasing the peaks as the tide advances, being in the right spot, watching the sunset over the sea, familiar faces smiling coz their stoked, dawn patrols, surfing till it's too dark to see, those one or two 'special' surprise swells.   :)

Bring it on!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 29, 2008, 08:22:16 pm
like the one wacking Fistral now...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on May 30, 2008, 08:17:43 am
mega wind swell getting in this morning. if the wind drops monolith and rich will have their fire baptism today.
and if the wind drops it will fire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 30, 2008, 11:40:25 am
all time waves in cornwall last night and this morning. Porthtowan was pumping last night and I heard rumours of stand up arms spread barrels to be had at Perranporth. Times like these you realise climbing fitness has NO bearing on paddle fitness, the only solution is to get in the water more!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 30, 2008, 12:13:00 pm
Penhale and Crantock also killing it! Fistral is a bit fat on the high!!! heading to Watergate on low later! corner should be going of its nut! then heading north to meet climber types, any knowlege of venues that may be worth a look, Woolacombe way???
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 30, 2008, 01:05:21 pm
bouldering venues or surfing venues?  plenty of both up that way, waves forecast to stay around over the weekend but getting smaller i think so might end up being a longboard wave in devonshire
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 30, 2008, 03:45:01 pm
then heading north to meet climber types, any knowlege of venues that may be worth a look, Woolacombe way???

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9143.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9143.0.html)??????
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 01, 2008, 07:37:38 pm
Yeah, been good, did Croyde...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 02, 2008, 05:07:12 pm
Aye! Croyde was in good form Thursday through Friday.. Had some excellent sessions on both days..  Shame there wasn't some spring low-tides to make the most of the swell.  Swell had weakened to piddle again by Saturday
By no means 'all time' but pretty fun all the same..
Wednesday and Thursday look promising this week, happy surfing folks...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2008, 10:37:14 pm
Got in at Aberdeen on Thursday night. Cleanish, but crowded by Abs standards (first decent surf in about 6 weeks!).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on June 02, 2008, 10:54:29 pm
Had a good session on a rented bodyboard on Labadi beach (Accra town beach), Ghana when I was out there with work last week. Got an afternoon off so I made the most of it. BIG but friendly, warm waves, that were the kind that deposited you high and dry every time. Sweet. I even got a round of applause from a crowd of locals for one landing, now you don't get that very often at Hell's Mouth!

Didn't see any of these shenanigans (but the waves were a lot bigger)
(http://www.ghanaweb.biz/GHP/img/pics/news/55083011.full.jpg)
(http://www.ghanaweb.biz/GHP/img/pics/news/17878568.optim.jpg)
(http://www.ghanaweb.biz/GHP/img/pics/news/49203654.optim.jpg)
Check this dude
(not my pics)


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 06, 2008, 11:26:16 pm
I've been back from Sumatra for a week and grappling with a dreadful jetlag and the remnants of a sickness virus that took hold throughout the entire boat.  There's a full online photo album, video and journal on the way but here's a couple of tasters..

This one is me riding my 6'5 Single Fin Egg at Turtle Point on a typical day during the trip.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3002/2556409669_58d48e9cba.jpg)

Here's another one of moi riding a 6'3 Quad on a very (very, very) fast and very (very.. sharp coral) shallow right in the Bay of Plenty.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3092/2556411533_41c0189ea7.jpg?v=0)



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 09, 2008, 08:11:22 am
I never noticed you were goofy before?? Or have I just forgotten the fact. Good trip in general?

You have missed little here. Had a go on a mates longboard in Aberdeen last week, marvellous fun. Sadly he had great fun on it too, and has now decided not to sell it anymore.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 09, 2008, 04:14:34 pm
Lurvely looking waves in Sumatra FD, shame about the sickness going round must have taken the shine off the situation.
North Devon hasn't been serving up much juice recently, maybe a little dawn session tommor before the onshores kick in... 

Got in at a secret reef, on a reasonable swell last week and found the only big rock sticking up high enough to cause a problem.  Badly bruised lower back and hurt pride  :spank:  Should have pulled out sooner but the wave kept on opening up.  Had the day off work iced and rested.  Bending over, standing up and sitting down all became an 'issue' for a few days.  Fortunately things appear to be repairing quite well and I am now mobile again.  Lesson learnt it could've been v. nasty, be careful out there folks!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on June 17, 2008, 04:37:33 pm
joel tudor's life: no wonder he smiles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qLqUYf_Aw8
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 23, 2008, 10:30:25 am
Had two good sessions on the new longboard. Saturday at Banff was good, started on beach to get hang of board then moved over to Point. Good, but wind picked up now and again. Had first dawnie if the year today (how slack is that - solstice has come and gone already). Good at first, but wind messed it up later. Loving the new board, great fun. It's got a big middle fin and two little ones. Had a go on it without the little fins this morning, and found it much looser (?) managed to get it to turn more and get back up the waves rather than going straight across.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 23, 2008, 02:20:02 pm
Nice one Chris... try changing the fin position in the box too (Back - better for nose riding and will be more tracky/stable; Forward - Loose) You'll be surprised what a difference it makes to the handling of the board.  I look forward to having a go next time my Aberdeen visits coincides with a swell.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on June 24, 2008, 06:49:55 am
Nias still works for sure.
sorry to hear about sickness.  i got laid low for a week with the hershey squits- rapidly turning to rice water coming out of the back end.. ilness in hot countries is not funny.
surfed turtles in west java- then nias. powerful wave bit too much for my limited surf skills. snapped prize pin tail , fin through thigh and coral scarred feet came as a result. To say the locals are weird is an understatement. glad to hear you are all getting swell back in blighty :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 25, 2008, 06:55:52 pm
Glad to hear you're having a good trip. Have you ever read the amazing story of the discovery of Nias called 'Guardians of the Point' from the The Surfers Journal. It's a really extradordinary tale and one you must read if you've now been there.  I bumped into two guys in Medan on our way back and they'd just come from Nias and said there was 70 people in the water at times!!!

I'm still editing pictures and video but will be done soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on June 26, 2008, 08:00:38 am
oh i heard about that.. would like to get my mitts on it. Some of the locals were telling me that the local chief put a curse on the pioneer surfers there.. and lo and behold they all keeled over.

hmmm the crowds.. definately a problem. + the general level of surfing was pretty high as can be expected. I was there for just short of month and i think 70 folk in the water was an exaggeration. It seemed to ebb and flow each week. a lot of crews would leave on the same day freeing up some space. I guess the underlying problem is that all the attention is focussed on one wave with exceptionally easy access from the accomodation. For sure there is more waves in the area but sourcing good and fairly priced transport is annoyingly difficult on NIas.

like your pics fella
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 28, 2008, 05:58:57 pm
This week i have been mostly surfin Joss Bay!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SteveM on July 14, 2008, 10:01:12 am
What advice would you give to a complete beginner heading to California?

We're heading out for a bit of a roadtrip around the Sierras but want to spend the last week or so on the beach. My girlfriend's surfed before but I've never played on anything larger than a bodyboard. Always fancied the idea of learning though, so I'm looking for somewhere suitable for a complete beginner - any recommendations? We're flying out of San Francisco so I'm naturally biased towards somewhere in the Bay area. Santa Cruz was mentioned?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2008, 09:15:14 am
I've got the Stormrider's Guide, can have a look tonight. No personal experience though. Santa Cruz is an obvious option, but the water get's colder the further north you are. You could go to Half Moon Bay, just south of SF,  Mavericks looks good! :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 15, 2008, 04:03:10 pm
Santa Cruz is a great place and has loads of places to surf up and down the coast. The main centre of attraction is Steamer Lane but that's not for beginners so you're best going to the beaches nearby.  You'll find loads of hire shops and tuition should you intend to take lessons.  Further South there are more remote beaches and breaks...

Before you go buy a copy of 'Caught Inside' by Dan Duane which I've mentioned earlier in the thread. It's an account of an ex Yosemite climbing bum moving to Santa Cruz and taking a year out to learn to surf. It's a beautiful book...

Ben
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 16, 2008, 07:41:07 am
A point break like Swamis would be a better option, if a little further,,,
Or Malibu...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 16, 2008, 04:00:34 pm
A point break like Swamis would be a better option, if a little further,,,
Or Malibu...


Sorry Idol I totally disagree... Swami's and Malibu are mega crowded (I've surfed the latter but not the former) and a beginner would never get a wave. He's also flying in and out of San Fran so why drive all the way to LA and San Diego ? :shrug:



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 16, 2008, 11:17:25 pm
Mega crowded for a beginner, would be better than soft core surfin hard floor rules,,, IE: steamers, I have only surfed Huntingdon and Trestles, and would not recommend doing a drowning fish impression further north than Santa Cru, and its obvious big fish problem at the mo. but, my point is, if you are around Cali, do the equivilent of going to Stanage Edge,,, more crowds, more wave's, more fun and tollerence? just an opinon< no direction intended.com
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 17, 2008, 06:22:46 pm
You are right though, its a long way from there for brits, the yanks see it as a day trip!!! anywhere will be good!, any one been to the Maldives?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SteveM on July 18, 2008, 08:55:28 am
Thanks for the ideas folks. I'm off to town to find a bookshop - figure I can read the relevant section of the Stormrider guide before they throw me out for folding the page corners over and scribbling in the margin. Will also have a look for Caught Inside - I need some holiday reading.

Have been browsing for images and we're definitely going to stop off at Mavericks, just for the spectacle cause it looks way way too big for these cajones.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 18, 2008, 11:19:29 am
Good lad.   You'll be lucky to see Mavericks breaking at all in the Summer as the large swells don't begin to arrive until November really.  Also it's unlikely that you'd find anywhere suitable to surf at all on the Mid California coast if it was breaking as everywhere else would be closed out or too crowded at the sheltered spots.

Go to surfline.com and magic seaweed.com for more info on all the local spots, you'll find swell forecasts, tides and lots of other info.

If you do get the bug, make sure you buy a board when in the US as they are helluvalot cheaper out there than here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2008, 04:01:02 pm
Lovely dawnie this am. Sunny skies, no wind and fun small peeling 2ft ish waves, perfect for longboard. In water from 7:30 - 9:15 or so, pretty much on my own (one other guy in, but on a different peak). Really didn't want to go to work.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 23, 2008, 04:52:39 pm
Yep yep! In for the dawnie at C r o y d e this morning on my freshly repaired 6'' Celtic Conncetions board (it got a little smashed up after taking off down the cobblestone beach on a particularly windy day this winter, lucky not to have taken someone's head off!)...  Anyhow beautiful weather, warm water and a nice little swell..  :thumbsup:

Session ended abruptly by a savage longboarder late take off drop in from hell...  The guy decided to take off with the lip and land on me whilst I'm flying out from under the curl.  I'm in one piece, my board however is smashed up again and unrideable.  'Oh Sorry mate' was the response, I spent ages fixing the thing and first time out it gets smashed again.   :furious: 

What is the deal when something like this happens is he liable for the damage caused... Or is it a case of don't worry about it mate it's just one of those things?? (Which is pretty much what I said after sending some expletives in his direction).  Judging by the shiny new log he was riding, he could probably afford to buy me a new 6'' ten times over!

Board is back on the Doctors table and I am building a healthy prejudice towards loggers...  So come on defend the noble art of longboarding because at the moment I feel like (WARNING rash generalisations coming up) loggers are the following....    dirty stinking snakers that hog waves by catching them way outside
                   fat mid life crisis types with all the gear and no idea
                   unable to change direction anytime this century
                   and finally drop in artists..

I am sure you loggers on here are none of the above but what would convince me to buy a longboard. (Apart from a desire to mow down all ahead of me>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2008, 05:04:53 pm
Riding a longboard made me surf better on my shortboard.  Loads of shortboarders are far too static on their boards keeping their feet in the same place all the time.  To surf well you need to move them up and down to trim the board. I didn't get this until I rode a longboard...

Riding a longboard is fun on small days.. as long as you don't hog all the waves.

Nose riding is fantastic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 24, 2008, 08:03:40 am
What FD said.

 
Quote
So come on defend the noble art of longboarding because at the moment I feel like (WARNING rash generalisations coming up) loggers are the following....    dirty stinking snakers that hog waves by catching them way outside
                   fat mid life crisis types with all the gear and no idea
                   unable to change direction anytime this century
                   and finally drop in artists..

Will be treated with the contemp it deserves and ignored completely. It's summer in Devon, the kooks are out. Deal with it.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3291/2690388872_633d124dd6.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 24, 2008, 06:18:42 pm
Quote
Will be treated with the contemp it deserves and ignored completely. It's summer in Devon, the kooks are out. Deal with it.

Come on this isn't ignoring Chris... You bit...  Must of hit a raw nerve...Still I'll get my coat............  and put it on backwards. :lol:

Quote
Riding a longboard made me surf better on my shortboard.  Loads of shortboarders are far too static on their boards keeping their feet in the same place all the time.  To surf well you need to move them up and down to trim the board. I didn't get this until I rode a longboard...

Riding a longboard is fun on small days.. as long as you don't hog all the waves.

Nose riding is fantastic.

FD this is what I'm looking for... sure I started on a bigger board but dropped down very quickly and never really considered riding long again, the idea of enjoying smaller days is mildly appealing (although given the choice I'd rather go climbing), improving my surfing is definitely of interest and I want to know more about nose riding why so fantastic??  Speed?  Position?  What would be the ultimate loggers wave?? Rincon? Malibu?

I love to ride shorter boards because they handle steeper more powerful waves better, they fit in low tide Croyde barrels better, you can generate tremendous speed, you can rotate on a pin head, you can duck dive easily and they fit in my car nicely!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 25, 2008, 08:45:42 am
Well it was a tedious hackneyed stereotype wasn't it.

I was cynical too, until I had a go on one. Here in Aberdeen if you want to have any surfing fitness at all, you get out on whatever waves you get, especially in summer, and they are a good way of having some fun on waves that would leave you frustrated and disappointed otherwise, if you were trying to use a shortboard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 27, 2008, 12:18:22 pm
Tell you what,,, we all the same! the tools may differ, but its us and the wave thats the same...
the longboard is traditional, its also classy, all boards are allowed, but the 9.0 is me... I identify with the fustration, we get all the waves, and look good.
Gays on trays,,, Loggers,,, whatever!
Just surfed Joss bay (far E coast), classic two day swell, then surfed Widemouth and Fistral,,,
Surf rage, havent seen it in years!!!
Its actully been a fuckin great summer...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 28, 2008, 08:13:52 am
Glad it's good there, it's been terrible here on the (proper) far E Coast. And not much hope on the horizon either.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 29, 2008, 11:10:29 am
Sorry, know i am a pain, allow me to spray...
Noseriding!
recently been back out on the 9.4, fully progresive pin tail, concave nosed rebel board (my first), Croyde about 6 weeks ago... was doin these amazing take offs, like paddling... take off,pop up into full fake five (slide to the nose, all crouched up), slide hard let the tail kick into a helicopter, almost walk to the tail again and allow the board to correct itself, and get every one to hoot....
also practicing fins first take offs...
The Longboard, Liquid Grit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 30, 2008, 11:25:00 am
Quote
Well it was a tedious hackneyed stereotype wasn't it.

I did warn you!  :)
Quote
WARNING rash generalisations coming up

Now then......  Having had a little time to get over the trashing of my beloved 6''.  I managed to get out on a couple of small clean days at Croyde and Combesgate.  Inspired by you people and an article I read which suggested trying to surf a longboard like a shortboard on small days, I actually took out something over 7'' for a spin.  The theory being that when you drop down again your shortboard will feel like grease lightening! The suggestion is not to do any longboarder tricks ie. cross stepping, drop knee turns etc... rather try to carve it up like you were shortboarding.  (I dug out a 7'' 6 Bonzer from the depths of my garage, big centre fin, two 'bat-wings and a channel bottom).  It made the most out of the conditions and dare I say it?  I had lots of fun on a day I'd normal sack surfing off.  I'll still be on my shorties on bigger days but am definitely more inspired to get out on something biggger on those smaller days. 

Sometimes it takes a knock to make you look at yourself and figure whether your anger/frustration is pointing in the right direction.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2008, 12:24:31 pm
The Warning doesnt make it ok?

What if I put a warning like: WARNING : BIG INSULT COMING UP

and then said; Granticus you're a cock, would that make it OK? (I don't think this of course, just an example).

Glad you enjoyed the experience, I wouldn't take my longboard out on a big day either, pain in the arse to get it out the back more than anything else! Vague promise of a small wave up here on the weekend, hopefully the fog is gone.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 30, 2008, 01:54:55 pm
Any of you guys been surfing in Munich?

Check these out...

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/22/27506981_8dacb2ea56.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cs___/27506981/)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3118/2620741990_41938680ce.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/hyperbuoy/2620741990/)
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/76/188720627_856c071c14.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/karolina_k/188720627/)
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1001/1490406116_e2b42d6a13.jpg?v=0) (http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1001/1490406116_e2b42d6a13.jpg?v=0)

Pretty strange place to go surfing, but I guess if you live that far inland and surf.

Tons more pics on flickr (http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=munich+surfer&ss=2&ct=6)

(apologies for posting same pics in two thread, couldn't decide which they belonged in).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2008, 02:15:57 pm
Quite a well known spot, not ridden it myself. It's even in Stormriders (or one of the guides). People even get boards made specially for the wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2008, 04:08:48 pm
When we were in Jackson Hole (well jackson) year before last we went into one of the shops to sort out a snow mobiling trip to Yellowstone. In the shop there was a surfboard stashed in the corner, and the guy saif they regularly surf standing waves in the rivers there in the summer too. I guess if you are that far from the sea you will surf anything.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 30, 2008, 04:15:06 pm
Thats all news to me (being a non-surfer) and sounds a bit crazy, but as you say if your land-locked you make do with what you can get.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 31, 2008, 11:17:26 am
Quote
The Warning doesnt make it ok?

What if I put a warning like: WARNING : BIG INSULT COMING UP

and then said; Granticus you're a cock, would that make it OK? (I don't think this of course, just an example).

I know Chris.. I was in a bad mood and I am beginning to come to terms with the fact that silly season has begun down here!!  I had to get my prejudices out there in order to confront my own demons. Plus it made me feel better and it's all about me you know. :guilty:

Just watched a freebie DVD that came with Wavelength has a little section on this standing wave in Germany, looks fun, especially if this is the only juice you can get.

Small swell and offshore/ish here today, out for more grockle dodging this arvo...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2008, 11:01:28 am
Had a top session at banff yesterday. Sunny skies, no wind and nice clean swells.Got in just as tide turned, and we had the beach pretty much to ourselves. Nice small peeling waves, perfect for logging and trying out noseriding. As tide dropped, point stared to work, got a couple of good rides, and was getting better as tide dropped, but had to cut session short on the promise of a sunday roast (such hardship).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 04, 2008, 11:37:01 am

Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester? The missus snapped her middle fin this weekend after my botched repair job  :guilty: so we could do with someone who knows what they're doing having a go this time.

The boards not worth much (I reclaimed it from the rubbish afetr a mate had chucked it do to said fin snapping) but if perfect for the missus (and me on small days).

Any ideas how much it would cost? I'm not a surfer as such, just a punter with a board clogging up the waves so haven't much of clue about these things!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2008, 12:07:01 pm
FD will have a better idea of what's in that area than I do, but I could lend you the "ding repair scriptures" if you want to find out how they recommend doing it and have another go yourself.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 04, 2008, 12:40:27 pm

That would be fantastic Chris! Cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2008, 12:57:22 pm
No worries. Check your pm. Just did a quick google though, and the info online is just about as good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 05, 2008, 12:58:40 pm
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...

Whereabouts are you? I'm in the High Peak just outside Chapel en-le Frith and could do it for you if you drove to my place with board etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 06, 2008, 02:55:39 pm
What do you lot reckon about this (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/7542151.stm)?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 06, 2008, 03:28:07 pm
Been discussed at length on surfing forums.

Therer are (as always) many sides to the story.

My thoughts;

(as an owner of one UK made glass fibre board, one SA made glass fibre board and one machine made Epoxy board from the east)

There are loads of shapers (some would say too many) and they vary in quality. Some no longer shape by hand, but rely on CNC machines, to do most of the shaping, so are in a way no better than machine produced boards in the east anyway. They rely on the reputation of having a "custom" board made, when in fact they are mass producing, and selling at custom prices. Hopefully if there is a squeeze then reputaion will win over and they will go under first. part of having a custom board made is being able to discuss what you want with the shaper and him hand crafting the board to your requirements. These shapers do not really give a toss about this and will try and convince you that the board you need is one they have made for you already.

It's not all about cost and quality, a lot of technology is going into these newer "pop-outs", allowing lighter and stronger boards to be made in factories. This technology requires bulk-production machinery, that is not available in the UK.

Also you could say it's part of the way of the world, and surf boards are going the way of skis, bikes, cars, tellys etc. In spite of this being a current news item, this is not something new, and has been happening for years.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 07, 2008, 04:43:44 pm
Quote
so we could do with someone who knows what they're doing having a go this time.

Sounds like your problem is solved but some advice from someone who spends a lot of time repairing (botching) boards. 

Glassed in fins are great for riding but a pain to repair. 
If the fin is snapped (ie... the fin itself is broken) better to replace with a new one.  If this is the case I would recomend installing plugs for FCS or similar, then next time you have a snapped fin you can just whip it out and wack in a new one.  Regardless of this you will need to use a sharp knife to cut away laminations and generally clean up around the fin area.  If you intend to glass one back in > you'll need to fill any holes and allow to cure, then install the fin using fibreglass cloth and resin (this is easier said then done, step by step guides can be found!)...  The simplest way would deffo be to cut away and clean up, then fill, then drill (large drill bit) holes to drop FCS plug units into, fill around plugs to secure, then re-glass the area using cloth to reinforce.  Sand down to a nice smooth finish... Heh presto, you can now interchange fins... Same process works with lock box etc... 

Alternatively return the old wreck to the skip where you found it and go buy a pop out BIC or something, good fun for small days and beginners etc...  The cost of fin repair, if you're paying someone, won't be far off what a second hand pop out will cost you anyway.  It's a tricky job and one not many will be keen to take on.  (I normally get a bottle of decent red wine for repairing friend's boards but for a repair like this I'd expect a case!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 08, 2008, 10:32:47 am
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...

Whereabouts are you? I'm in the High Peak just outside Chapel en-le Frith and could do it for you if you drove to my place with board etc.


Wow, FD, that'd be cool. My missus lives in West Didsbury (as do I knd of at the weekends) and am out in the peak regularly so could drop it off. The fin was lost to the sea so once I've got my hands on a new one I'll be in touch if that's ok. I've pm'd you.

Cheers!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 08, 2008, 10:37:56 am

Granticus,

I guess FCS are the way to go but both mine and my missus board are from a by-gone era before then I think! I realise it would maybe a good idea to ditch the board for a pop out but I'm loath to throw things away that can be repaired. Seems a real shame. The missus really like it as well, much prefers it to the bic's she's tried.

As it's the centre fin, I guess I'd have to drill into the stringer to fit FCS plugs? Is this cool? Will it shag the board?

On another point, anyone have an opinion on O'Shea boards? Quite liked the look of a fat boy flyer for a first shortboard that goes in mushy/small waves. Good idea? My board knowledge is pretty poor.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 08, 2008, 02:16:23 pm
Anyone on hear know of someone who could glass a fin back in and is based near Manchester?...

Whereabouts are you? I'm in the High Peak just outside Chapel en-le Frith and could do it for you if you drove to my place with board etc.


Wow, FD, that'd be cool. My missus lives in West Didsbury (as do I knd of at the weekends) and am out in the peak regularly so could drop it off. The fin was lost to the sea so once I've got my hands on a new one I'll be in touch if that's ok. I've pm'd you.

Cheers!

You won't be dropping it off. You'll be mending it yourself under my supervision so you know what to do when it happens again.  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2008, 02:41:13 pm
You always want the be a guru didn't you?

(http://sam.mkbmemorial.com/bigwednesday/bigwed_4.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on August 08, 2008, 02:45:48 pm

You won't be dropping it off. You'll be mending it yourself under my supervision so you know what to do when it happens again.  :)

Even better! Got a fin in the mail. Genius! Thanks. ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 08, 2008, 03:12:00 pm
You always want the be a guru didn't you?

 ;D  Give a man a fish etc. etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 08, 2008, 04:58:10 pm
Quote
As it's the centre fin, I guess I'd have to drill into the stringer to fit FCS plugs? Is this cool? Will it shag the board?

Yep! Drilling the stringer is not a problem.. it is normal practice for FCS plugs...  Sounds like you're gonna be taken through the process with Mr FD Miagi  ..... 'wax on wax off'.....Let us know how it goes...

Love the fact that you intend to keep the old girl rolling!

Quote
On another point, anyone have an opinion on O'Shea boards? Quite liked the look of a fat boy flyer for a first shortboard that goes in mushy/small waves. Good idea? My board knowledge is pretty poor.

O'shea boards are of a good standard no problems with that..  If you are dropping down to a shortboard something of the fatboy flyer ilk will be perfect.  You'll still need some volume in your board and the fatboy will provide this.  Don't be tempted to drop down to something that's 6'' or less and wafer thin, it will be too much too soon and you'll have a hard time of it.  I wouldn't go more than 1ft shorter than what you're currrently riding and make sure you still have some volume in whatever you get.  If you can get to try some different boards out even better..

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 08, 2008, 05:40:22 pm

On another point, anyone have an opinion on O'Shea boards?

O'Shea boards are good.. I've been surfing North Wales since the mid 80's so have seen them develop from a garage outfit to full blown surf industry.  Graniticus is on the money about not being too hasty to go to a shortboard as you'll miss out on a lot of waves and a lot of learning. 

Fat Boy Flyers are OK but in some respects they are neither here nor there..  (This is just my opinion mind) FBF's were invented in the early to mid 90's when the choice of boards was limited and the shortboards were high performance oriented (narrow and thin and unrideable most of the time - I wasted many hours on one) so FBF's filled a spot in the market that was needed by the heavier and less regular surfers who didn't want to ride a longboard or mini-mal. 

These days there are so many options in that area of wide, higher volume boards you have much more choice.  Personally, I'd point someone who was feeling their way into surfing toward a 2+1 (big center fin, small side fins) performance mini-mal, an eggy single fin like a Magic Carpet type of thing or a bonzer type that Granticus was paddling last week. 

Anyway, come up and get your board fixed...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on August 08, 2008, 11:43:57 pm
Just had a 3 week Lleyn bonanza, weather was dodgy but we had a single afternoon at Porth Oer when the wave was getting huge (by our standards) and the locals were all in the water - it was messy, but big and regular, and the waves were going all the way onto the beach (me gyal almost took out a couple of dog walkers with the body board).

The bad bit was on the car park, tosspot wankers racing across it in Minis with music blaring, mouthing off and then laying on the beach playing guitars (but really, not able to very well) . Like they'd just watched Endless Summer and snorted a few lines of banger.

Put me right off- didn't want to associate with these little cunts for a start, and in the end didn't want to get in the water. Thought I'd get mullered on the body board, but of course Sade proved me wrong. last year she couldn't go in due to being mega preggers though, so I didn't mind too much.

I wasn't remotely psyched to bodyboard - but later wanted to be in the water, but not arsed about just rolling about on a bodyboard. I wanted to be out there with a big surfboard, just trying to surf, failing, but enjoying it loads more,  like every time I've borrowed one. Damn. Can't justify the expense so next year I might leave the bodyboard and forget about it altogether.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on August 11, 2008, 12:31:49 pm
hmmm any of you chaps seen the channel islands flick flow? Cant say i am a massive fan, however i am trying to track down the song used for currens montage.. cant get the tune outta my head!!! incubus bloc party??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 12, 2008, 06:00:25 pm
Fistrals firing at five foot!
The bay is OK!
Rip Curl Board Masters was Party Party,
just seen some pictures of The Cribber breaking last month.
Its been a great week end down ere!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 14, 2008, 08:13:55 am
Last night, out of the blue it all turned into a session of dreams. Ahhhh. Love it when it happens like that, no expectations, and suddenly head high glass, sunny, warm water and 2 people out. A couple of hours of heaven...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 14, 2008, 08:52:26 am
Nice, where were you in?

Looks like a nice small longboard wave this am in Aberdeen, not got car and board with me, as out on the piss tonight. Bugger.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 14, 2008, 10:54:23 am
hmmm any of you chaps seen the channel islands flick flow? Cant say i am a massive fan, however i am trying to track down the song used for currens montage.. cant get the tune outta my head!!! incubus bloc party??

Can't say I know the tune and I'm sure you'll find it if you Google hard enough but there's a superb diatribe by Derek Hynd in a copy of The Surfers Journal damning Flow for re-writing history which makes interesting if you can find it. If I can I'll scan it and put it up on here.... Whilst Flow isn't all its cracked up to be Curren is God IMHO
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 14, 2008, 11:30:08 am
Nice, where were you in?

Over here in Norway, spot called Byberg, rocky lefts. Sore ribs today I can tell ya!!  :thumbsup:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Houdini on August 14, 2008, 12:44:59 pm
Smart lad like you could fashion a fin for himself, what?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 14, 2008, 12:55:58 pm
I have seen a fin fashioned from a plastic breadboard, but loked like a lot of time and effort.

The left / right / centre fin set from FCS really annoys me. I have had to but a set in the past when I broke just one (centre one too). I have the other two if you want to buy one for a reduced rate? I personally don't think having a left or right one in the centre would make that much difference to the average surfer( I never noticed), and you could take a file / some paper to it if you want it more even.

As far as the new shapes, sizes and materials go, apparently they do make some difference, but I have thus far avoided them as I don't really understand and doubt I would tell any.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 14, 2008, 01:27:56 pm
George Greenough (inventor of the knee board, surf mat and general all round water craft wizard) is the man to read up on if you are remotely interested in fins.  I was very sceptical of the different types, profile and placement of fins until I started to ride a single fin egg and a longboard and I was staggered by the difference in handling style and performance when varying the type of fin and it's placement in relation to rail and tail.  My shortboards and mini-gun are all fitted with lokbox rather than FCS because of the ability to move fins up and down in relation to the tail and each other and the lokbox fitting itself is almost as solid as a glass-in in comparision with FCS.

There are some great articles out there on the internet and in the better quality surf magasines that explain the why's and wherefore's of fin placement and hydrodynamics.  What's interesting is that most of the foils and flex characteristics that are currently in use come from two sources; Greenough's research into the flex and fin profile of pelagic fish and a US airforce aerodynamics manual for aircraft wing design.

I've made some of my own wooden/glass fins which was fun (until one fell off  ;D)

To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's.  PM me as I might have a couple of spares kicking around somewhere...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 14, 2008, 02:39:25 pm
Quote
Last night, out of the blue it all turned into a session of dreams. Ahhhh. Love it when it happens like that, no expectations, and suddenly head high glass, sunny, warm water and 2 people out. A couple of hours of heaven...

Ahhhh! Yes this is what it's all about.  I had a similar experience last night too, a bit of local knowledge and a bit of gut feeling.  Plenty of swell around yesterday down here (like 15ft + worth of swell) but combined with onshore gales.  However, there is this little left had reef break, right up in the Bristol Channel on the Exmoor Coast in Somerset.  Those in the know will understand where I'm talking about (known as Lister's), it normally only fires up in the winter but last night it turned on for us few lucky people.  Perfect powerful peeling lefts with mini barrels galour.  All smiles in the water and the sun even came out!

I just picked up a set of FCS X-rated fancy pants fins with honeycomb centre and spangly graphics from Saltrock 15 a set, they're still selling them. It is good to have a full set of spares, think how gutted you'd be if you are having an all time session and it's ruined by losing a fin which you can't replace.  I always have a spare set in my car for emergencies.  I'd never spend 70 on fins and was dubious about the difference these new generation fins make.  However, the 'feel' of my board is totally different and noticeable on this set.  The board 'projects', glides smoother, carries speed through turns better and holds a more powerful turn better without spinning out.  It even sounds different!?  But heh don't spend 70 buy some basic plastic jobs or seek out a bargain.  See below!

http://www.surfline.co.uk/index.asp?level1=HARDWARE&level2=FINS+%26+WAX (http://www.surfline.co.uk/index.asp?level1=HARDWARE&level2=FINS+%26+WAX)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 14, 2008, 03:38:30 pm
I didn't need a new set of fins, but went for the Grenades, as they are the most ordinary looking. Cheers for the link.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 14, 2008, 04:05:40 pm
No worries Chris.  The better half was dead against the purchase of the one's with ladies on, besides which, I thought I might look a bit of a knobber with those fins on.  I went for the bomb/skull graphics.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2008, 08:47:35 am

To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's. 

Surely it depends on what level you surf at and what board you are riding. I bust the centre fin of my old minimal and could only get a spare left fin a amte had. Rode the board for avout a week and couldn't tell the difference.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2008, 03:01:14 pm
Noo. Onshore here all weekend. Got a long weekend coming up though, and charts are looking vaguely promising for the deserted beaches of NW Scotland. (although I have probably cursed it now).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 18, 2008, 05:38:28 pm

To answer your question, sticking one of the side fins in won't do really as you need the foil on both sides to generate drive and you'll find the board pulling the foiled side if you use a side fin. If you are 'puntering' then I wouldn't bother going for a glass set of FCS fins but just buy a set plastic G5 or G3's. 

Surely it depends on what level you surf at and what board you are riding.

Yeah... you're right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 19, 2008, 10:07:24 am
Quote
So, anybody been out recently?
Onshore South/ South Westerly gales = some of the more secret spots in N. Devon/ Somerset firing up.  It felt like a proper winter swell yesterday.  Lynmouth was all time, the spring tides made for some interesting exits from the water at high tide, the safest of which appeared to be paddling into the harbour and the most 'interesting' involved getting dumped onto the rocks by the shorebreak.  We hit Lynmouth at low (avoiding the getting in problem) and a.n.other break on the push upto high (as it turned out the tide eventually got too high for this reef).  However, before it crapped out, we scored some nice chunky barrels.  Returned to Lynmouth  to watch people attempting to get back in when it got dark.  Can't remember a summer that when we have been able to surf these spots so regularly.  Anywhere else experiencing unseasonal swells?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 19, 2008, 10:12:55 am
Anywhere else experiencing unseasonal swells?

Are we fuck.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 21, 2008, 04:18:42 pm
Solid two week swell still here in Newquay!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 22, 2008, 09:21:45 am
Unlucky Chris...  Looks like the south west is getting all the fun.  Lynmouth was easily overhead on Monday which generally only happens on winter swells.  Back to small onshore dribble at moment though. 

Heading down for a few days in Cornwall next week, hoping to surf not sure where but I will not be going to Fistral!   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on August 22, 2008, 01:30:18 pm
Is this about to go badly wrong, has already gone badly wrong or is it in fact ok?

(http://starbulletin.com/2007/05/01/sports/artbeetx.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 22, 2008, 04:23:00 pm
Quote
Is this about to go badly wrong, has already gone badly wrong or is it in fact ok?

Point by point. 

It's about to go really badly wrong.

It's already gone badly wrong.

It is infact OK if he is lucky or alternatively potentially life threatening.

The wave is unmistakeable.  Teahupoo.  Your unfortunate chap has taken off too deep/ too late.  Ideally he should already be under the lip and on his feet.  He has the full force of the ocean lining up behind him and he is heading towards a shallow live coral reef.  It may end with some nasty cuts or worse.  I have only heard of one surfer that has died as a result of wiping out here which is surprising.  Although I'm sure there have been some properly nasty incidents.  Like someone got scalped! 

Thinking about paddling into one of these beasts gives me a horrible feeling in my stomach...  Check how thick the lip is, the flats look super shallow, this lot have the right idea.... stay in the channel and watch.

(http://stormwater.files.wordpress.com/2007/04/teahupoo_1.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on August 22, 2008, 04:37:40 pm

that just looks like suicide to me - amazing photo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on August 22, 2008, 06:04:11 pm
Brill photos!

Here's something I've never *really* known the answer to, if someone would care to help: What's the significance of the thickness of the lip?

In fact an in depth description of wave hydraulics would be good!  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 24, 2008, 09:29:49 pm
What do you mean by siginficance? Thick heavy waves have a lot of weight behind them, and will pound you into the bottom or reef if you screw it up.

I can highly recommend Surf Science by Tony Butt and Paul Russell if you want to learn about waves and their formation
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 25, 2008, 08:44:26 am
What's the significance of the thickness of the lip?
Lip thickness is a sign of power in the wave, it has a lot to do with the wavelength of the swell and puts major water volume into the wave. A 10ft wave with a short wavelength has nowhere near as much water in it as a 2ft wave with a proper wavelength. That's why tsunamis are so nasty. There are loads of waves hitting coastlines every day that are way bigger than most tsunamis, but the tsumami lips are like 2km thick, that's a lot of water and power.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2008, 03:44:39 pm
Be amazing to get it right though.

(http://surfermag.com/photos/wallpapers/mcken-1280.jpg)

(http://www.surfermag.com/wallpaper/fanning-frankbig.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2008, 08:40:45 am
And just when I'm bemoaining lack of waves, a random southerly swell appears. Bizarrely, clean and in well defined sets. Had a fantastic longboard session until it got dark last night, most of the session on my tod out back, picking off the set waves.

Felt like autumn; cool air, warm water, and nobody about. Sweet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 27, 2008, 12:40:54 pm
2 hours before sunset, 6ft reefy lefts with almost no wind last night, peachy. The autumn is on our doorstep  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 27, 2008, 11:51:32 pm
Classic Towan 3ft, 2, 4 hour session's either side of high tide.
3rd day running.
know what stoked means...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 31, 2008, 10:53:51 am
Weh Hey! Back in ND after raiding Kernow.  Scored Hayle rivermouth at dawn on Tues, shoulder high reeling punchy lefties and only 1 other in.  Big swell SW wind, apparently at the same time Gwithian was overhead but blown out mushiness.  Surfed small clean waves for the rest of the week at Gwithian and Perranporth.  Happy days.

On the thickness of lips.....
Thick lipped waves are more than likely going to be barreling waves which is what a lot of surfers are after.  (You can't beat getting barreled!).  The downside is they can be dangerous and hard to surf.  A thick lipped wave is faster and harder to get into.  You better get your timing right or you will end up in the lip heading down.  Although swell has a lot to do with the power and thus the girth of a wave, the set up is also important.  ie.  Saunton Sands will never throw out a big thick lip because the beach is so flat and the wave has nothing to trip up on.  On the other hand Croyde at low tide can have very defined and shallow banks of sand.  The waves come out of deep water and hit the banks, heh presto the wave kicks up and slams down with power.  Now apply this theory to a shallow reef where waves come out of deep water.  You get the idea.  What is going on under the water, the shape of the beach, sand banks, reef etc.  is very important in creating a powerful barreling fat lipped wave.  So if your starting out go for gently shelving beach much easier to ride and learn in this environment...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 31, 2008, 05:10:51 pm
Just spent a week in Abersoch with limited opportunities to pursue my normal distractions, and had my yearly epiphany that I should really get in the water more. Any of you guys have an old mini-mal you might like to sell? I don't really fancy shelling out for a new one , nor lugging around/ being smacked on the head by a bic one.

Amazing how Teahupoo always looks like it has the entire ocean behind it about to fill in a puddle someone has somehow created. Snorkelled along the edge of a similar reef not far away on a calm day and the way the reef drops vertically into the abyss is incredible, and a bit unnerving.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 01, 2008, 09:12:46 am
JB... I was there all last week and I think we waved at one another the harbour.  You didn't miss much surf wise though as I only went in twice earlier in the week.

I'll ask around about a mini mal.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2008, 12:51:36 pm
I am thinking of selling mine, but hardly the most convenient place for you to get it.

I missed this, btw, quite amusing

surferspath.com/news/shark-shield-surf-anti-shark-device-eaten-by-shark  (http://surferspath.com/news/shark-shield-surf-anti-shark-device-eaten-by-shark)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 01, 2008, 05:15:05 pm
Yeah, FD, clocked you lording it up outside The Sandpiper n'all. I know the surf was shit, but not as shit as the 'tragic light' landscape photography prospects, soloing on Cilan or a gopping Porth Ysgo.

How much are we talking Chris? I daresay there are a few off-shore types I know who might be passing...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 01, 2008, 07:19:17 pm
Oh dear... it was my birthday that day and I was very drunk by the time I was outside the sandpiper. :-[

Off topic but if we get a dry spell do you fancy some sea cliff action??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2008, 08:58:09 pm


How much are we talking Chris? I daresay there are a few off-shore types I know who might be passing...

No idea, will have a think. It's a Roger Cooper (fairly reputable S Wales shaper) conventional Glass fibre board, I think about 7'10 or so. It's in pretty good nick, couple of minor dings on tip and tail that have been well repaired and expected pressure dents on top. PM me an email address and I will send some pics.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 02, 2008, 08:37:52 am
I'm a mere 5'8", would a 7'10" board be a bit big? I know nothing, please bear that in mind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2008, 08:57:51 am
Depends on your level and what you have ridden before I guess? I am 6ft 2 and 13 st(ish) and it served me right through from first surfs (i only hired a swell board once before I got it) to overhead waves on the Hebrides last year.
 
I'm a bit out of my depth to be honest as I have only ever really ridden about half a dozen boards. I'm sure other people will be able offer more info. FD you remember my board?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 02, 2008, 09:06:30 am
It'll be fine JB... It's a nice board and 7'10 is probably ideal.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 02, 2008, 01:02:35 pm
Cheers for the advice guys. Not sure it will fit in the car though! What's the ads and disses compared to something a bit shorter? I was looking at stuff more like 7'2"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2008, 01:26:41 pm
Size wise with the front seat rolled back I can fit it into a 2 door Corsa in the passenger seat footwell, or diagonally in the boot of a Pug 306 estate with the 2 seats folded forward.

In general terms, the smaller you go the harder it will be get up on initally as it will be a bit more unstable and less floaty, but it will be more manouverable once you get better on it. Depends on how much frustration you are prepared to put up with and how much time you are prepared to dedicate to it early on vs feeling the board is holding you back once you start to progress. I surfed the board occasionally for the first couple of years, but have used it (on average) weekly since I moved to Aberdeen 4 years ago, and have only felt the need for a more manouverable board in the last year or so.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 02, 2008, 04:27:07 pm
JB..... get a roof a rack!   Mind you at 5''8 I reckon you can get away with something a little shorter than 7''10.  As long as you have lots of volume you'll be fine.  A minimal style board at around 7"4 will hold your size (assuming your not of prop forward build) just fine.  Just think volume, plenty of width and depth (oo er).  I started surfing on a 7"6 and I'm 5"10, this was a fine starter board for me.  My 7''6 fits in my Renault Megs Hatch (I see you baby shaking that ass!) in a straight line back from parcel shelve onto dash board no problem. 

Don't get tempted to buy a little skinny stick just coz your short.  I've seen so many people with brand spanking new 6 to 6"4 boards in the line up wasting their time and energy attempting to learn to surf...  I just dropped to a 6'' waffer thin thruster this year and whilst it surfs very well, paddling is very difficult (you need to be super fit) and it needs some serious punch in the wave to work.  It won't surf in slop, slow waves or small waves at all.  When you have learnt to ride a longer board ie. you can paddle it, stand up, trim across a wave, bottom turn and top turn, then get a fish type board, twinnie or quad or a fat boy thruster, that is shorter say 6''8 ish, still with plenty of width and volume.  You'll be shredding it up in no time. 

Last but by no means least, if at all possible get out there in some clean surf...  1 to 2ft and clean (offshore wind) is perfect for learning... Onshore mush is OK initially when you are just mastering standing up in the whitewater.  However, getting your timing right, locking into a little wave and trimming across will come so much easier when it is clean. Have fun!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 02, 2008, 04:35:39 pm
Cheers for the advice

Quote
Mind you at 5''8 I reckon you can get away with something a little shorter than 7''10.  As long as you have lots of volume you'll be fine.  A minimal style board at around 7"4 will hold your size (assuming your not of prop forward build) just fine.

That's what I was thinking - I'm fairly skinny. Don't worry, I've no intention of getting a short board, have borrowed them before and never got off one knee, whereas I was stood up on the first wave with a mate's bic minimal.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2008, 10:13:13 pm
Just been in the garage taking some pics for you and it's actually 7'8" x 21 3/4". Not sure where I got the 7' 10" from?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 03, 2008, 02:37:17 pm
Sorry Chris... not trying to do you out of sale! ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2008, 09:19:29 pm
It's all good, if JB doesn't think it's right for him, I'd rather not sell it to him.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 06, 2008, 02:14:50 pm
salvatore don't surf.
italy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qll3LIzPQ0A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qll3LIzPQ0A)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXR4--fEa1M&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXR4--fEa1M&feature=related)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 06, 2008, 03:39:36 pm
Do not be decieved, you are a 9.0 + JB...ok?.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 06, 2008, 03:58:47 pm
Do not be decieved, you are a 9.0 + JB...ok?.
:-[ sorry what do you mean? :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 06, 2008, 04:01:11 pm
Yeah Pat, I'll get some giant wooden thing and come down to Cornwall, we can have hang ten competitions!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on September 06, 2008, 04:22:19 pm
Do not be decieved, you are a 9.0 + JB...ok?.
:-[ sorry what do you mean? :-[
oh sorry again i thought it was a reply to the vids.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 09, 2008, 10:55:09 pm
Got one you can borrow star!
later vibes...

As for car trouble. 10.o fits nicely in a Mazda Eunos... so where there is a will theres a way, (ok, its a soft top!).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 09, 2008, 11:01:18 pm
PS., itsa Gordon and Smith, tripple stringer
400 GBP
collect only
50/50 rails (reason for sale)
VGC...

PPS. Its the Jesus Classic Longboard comp ate Croyde This W.E.

PPPS. any one going, Its near Baggy...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 10, 2008, 12:23:49 pm
Will be in the area... errr Coz I live here..  Very likely to be surfing and bouldering at some point (pun intended) throughout the weekend.

Looks like there is swell all weekend.
http://magicseaweed.com/Saunton-Croyde-Woolacombe-Surf-Report/7/detailedLongRange/uk/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Saunton-Croyde-Woolacombe-Surf-Report/7/detailedLongRange/uk/)

Just a matter of getting some shelter from that damned NWesterly, mind you looks like it's fairly light wind at times, so should be classic..

PM me a shout if you wanna check out some of the fine bouldering to be had in ND.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 12, 2008, 07:37:22 pm
Ahh, drat. looks like all the places are taken, so no room at the inn for the real Jesus... might still turn up,
Cribbers breaking today, fistrals 7ft and awkward... the bay is 5 and clean. saturday is gonna be classic.
Cool will turn up for the bouldering. freddy forefinger is feeling a little less fragile...
ps. virgin friendly boards are Eggs, Magic Carpets or i can fully see luke seawalker on a twinnie fish type board...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: PatKingDebtCollection on September 13, 2008, 01:28:07 am
Classic Towan 3ft, 2, 4 hour session's either side of high tide.
3rd day running.
know what stoked means...

Know what "ripped off" means?

It grieves me to read read about you enjoying yourself on other peoples money.  :thumbsdown:

Pay us back you selfish twat.

 ;)


 :furious:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: robertostallioni on September 13, 2008, 06:57:38 am
http://www.youtube.com/v/OaiSHcHM0PA&hl (http://www.youtube.com/v/OaiSHcHM0PA&hl)
http://www.youtube.com/v/BgPHGK8Cwg0&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/BgPHGK8Cwg0&hl=en&fs=1 (http://www.youtube.com/v/BgPHGK8Cwg0&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/BgPHGK8Cwg0&hl=en&fs=1)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 13, 2008, 12:40:17 pm
general ineptitude? Surfing?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jim on September 13, 2008, 09:05:52 pm
I might have to change my user name to SimonWilsonDebtCollection
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2008, 12:16:45 pm
two very different sessions on the weekend - Friday night - big messy storm swell and knackered sandbars. I was out of my depth a bit and took a few good nailings on steep drops. Guess my reactions and timing are a bit out after the summer.

Sunday evening, nice mellow southerly - great longboarding fun, until it got dark. Nice waves, cool air, warm water. Autumn is here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 16, 2008, 09:05:47 pm
Ireland (Ailieens near Lahinch) on Sunday morning....
(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/72159.jpg)

I fixed Galpinos fin today... pics tomorrow.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on September 16, 2008, 09:13:14 pm
Weh Hey! Back in ND after raiding Kernow.  Scored Hayle rivermouth at dawn on Tues, shoulder high reeling punchy lefties and only 1 other in.  Big swell SW wind, apparently at the same time Gwithian was overhead but blown out mushiness.  Surfed small clean waves for the rest of the week at Gwithian and Perranporth.  Happy days.

So it must have been you I met at Carn Brea on the Friday, I was falling off Pond Wall endlessly at the time... 

I got back from 2 weeks in SW france on Sunday evening having not scored any particularly great waves, to be told it had been headhigh and offshore all day. Surfed hayle rivermouth before work at 7 on monday morning and was similar to your above description!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 17, 2008, 05:53:48 pm
Quote
So it must have been you I met at Carn Brea on the Friday, I was falling off Pond Wall endlessly at the time... 


;D  Ah! Ha! Ben !! It was I scoping out Carn Brea on that fine greasy humid evening..  Good to hear you got the rivermouth on form, I thought it was pretty damn classic when I scored it!

Last week was epic.  Went something like this...  Sunday - bouldering at Lynmouth, Monday - Setting problems and bolting holds onto the new 40 something degree training board at the Mill, Tuesday - training on said board (finally something decent to train on in North Devon!), Wednesday am - Epic surf session at Lynmouth (proper epic), Wednesday night - training on said board again, Thursday am - even more epic surf at Lynmouth, Friday - Croyde, Saturday - sport climbing at Holcombe Quarries, Sunday - surfing at Putts on a super pumpy 15 second swell,  Monday - low tide Croyde barrel tastic, Tuesday am - swell's dead, longboarded at Wooly,  Tuesday eve - back to the board of justice........   :o  I need a rest.

Swell charts are now showing diddly squat...  Last chance for some DWS whilst there's no swell and the weather's good-  Berry Head on Friday!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on September 25, 2008, 12:13:29 pm
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/2884147117_30f7a18df8.jpg?v=0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28550645@N05/2884147117/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 04, 2008, 11:17:25 am
And Slater wins his 9th tour! Unbelievable!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on October 06, 2008, 11:49:02 am
Norway yesterday... beefy.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3273/2917649491_c119351e17.jpg?v=0)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2008, 11:56:14 am
Whereabouts?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on October 06, 2008, 12:55:28 pm
Kvassheim.
We windsurfed first (good laugh out in the swells you see in the background and nice waves on the point), then the wind dropped a bit and we surfed
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on October 06, 2008, 01:15:26 pm
Anyone on here know enough about board/fin theory to answer this??

Got a nice AM 6'4''. Pleased with it on the whole but now and again I catch a rail on the top turn. More so than with my other boards and i was wonderin if I could change the fins to help with this. Should I go smaller or larger, or is it a whole lot more complicated?

Alternatively of course, I could get better technique and more speed of the top, but changing the fins is cheaper!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 06, 2008, 06:55:40 pm
"fore foot further back on the board" theory may be applicable here..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 10, 2008, 11:02:09 am
Nash....  I don't think fins will make much difference..  Sounds to me like you're not carrying enough speed to the top of the wave.  This would indicate that it is, infact, your bottom turn that needs sorting out.  Focus on getting your bottom turn right this is where all your speed generation will come from and will prevent you from 'stalling' when your turning off the top. Smack that lip.

Well folks.. I just got married.. and to top it a friend popped round on the morning of the wedding with a gift from the missus.  It's 6"2 rounded pin, has 'parabolic' (whatever that means) balsa rails, epoxy construction and goes like grease lightening (Firewire Flexfire).  It is mint!  She really must love me or she just wants me out of the house on a regular basis. Happy days.  :thumbsup:

It will be unleashed Lyndaka this arvo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2008, 11:22:46 am
Sounds mint, pics?. And congratulations!

Gagging for a surf, not been in the water since before hols (21 Sept).

Now fully kitted out for winter, just got new X-CEL Hooded Rashie, all kit now upgraded since last winter; X-CEL infiniti 5:4:3 (on sale last spring!), Alder 7mm boots, and X-CEL Lobster mitts. Plus van for getting changed in. Bring on winter swells.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 11, 2008, 08:05:22 pm
Parabolic... balsa rails instead of a stringer... had a fire flex in Mexico... 6.6 squash tail... they are cool... wanted the 9.0,,, looked shit.... she wants the quad flex...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on October 13, 2008, 12:01:04 am
(http://photos.surfline.com/albums/userpics/12336/2867959415_ae1311c5ff_o.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 13, 2008, 03:18:43 pm
Nice Photo Bubba!

Quote
Parabolic... balsa rails instead of a stringer...

Yes this is the case on the board but I'm sure that's not what parabolic means... See below..
The board is an epoxy sandwich affair which generally don't need stringers anyway.

Parabola=
n.   A plane curve formed by the intersection of a right circular cone and a plane parallel to an element of the cone or by the locus of points equidistant from a fixed line and a fixed point not on the line.

Parabolic is something with the above properties... That's so much clearer to me now.  :-\

Anyhooooo I surfed it in quality waves this weekend and it ripped!

Quote
Sounds mint, pics?. And congratulations!

Cheers! Will attempt to post piccies soon, of the board not the wedding?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2008, 03:20:53 pm
Why would I want to see pics of you in a monkeysuit, when there is a new board around?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2008, 03:27:03 pm

Quote
Parabolic... balsa rails instead of a stringer...

Yes this is the case on the board but I'm sure that's not what parabolic means... See below..
The board is an epoxy sandwich affair which generally don't need stringers anyway.

Parabola=
n.   A plane curve formed by the intersection of a right circular cone and a plane parallel to an element of the cone or by the locus of points equidistant from a fixed line and a fixed point not on the line.

Parabolic is something with the above properties... That's so much clearer to me now.  :-\


I think Parabolic stringers referse to anything that has stringers that aren't straight down the centre like in conventional boards; like parabolic skis (carvers) it doesn't necessarily meant the shape if the stringer is a geometric parabola.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 13, 2008, 03:52:08 pm
I think Parabolic stringers referse to anything that has stringers that aren't straight down the centre like in conventional boards; like parabolic skis (carvers) it doesn't necessarily meant the shape if the stringer is a geometric parabola.

Imposter! What have you done with the real SA Chris?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 13, 2008, 05:07:52 pm
It's actually beginning to make proper sense... 

Quote
from a fixed line and a fixed point not on the line.

The parabola is the curve of the rails that whilst not being a straight line (like a stringer) starts and meets around the fixed points of the straight line.  ie. the curves that meet at the tail and nose...  this is in several dimensions though because of the 'rocker' of the board. 

Hows about in a monkey suit on the surfboard?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2008, 10:32:30 pm
Now that I would like to see. One step on from trash the dress

http://trashthedress.com/ (http://trashthedress.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 14, 2008, 07:07:26 pm
So the retro "bow stringer" is parabolic without even knowing it... do i stand corrected without even realiseing it?
funny thing happened t'other day, surf pumping... set wave... took off... went quiet and all weird... straightened out.... guy hoots.... paddle outback... "fucking sick barrel mate"
caught my first tube and didnt even realise it...
debt collect that!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rodma on October 21, 2008, 05:45:27 pm
Apologies as I'm sure this has been dealt with earlier in this thread, but I don't really have time to trawl through it.

I have only surfed a couple of times (the 2nd time ever on Friday past) and am keen to buy a board. Am I wasting my time buying a board made by BIC?

Oh, I'll mostly be in the water of the East coast of Scotland

Any help would be much appreciated
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2008, 10:10:19 am
A personal opinion (apologies to BIC owners)

BICs and NSPs are great to start on; reasonably priced, tough and very stable, but if you plan on spending a fir amount of time in the water you will improve farly quickly and you will find them to be a bit lifeless and unresponsive, and will soon find yourself hankering after a more progressive board.

I would look for a traditional glassed minimal / funboard / hybrid shape, especially if you are learning on the east coast, where waves can be a bit gutless. The newer lightweight epoxy boards are good, but not great if there is any wind or chop on the surface.

Where were you out? If it was with C2C at Dunbar, have a chat with Tim, Josh or Sam and try out some boards from them, or ask them for advice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rodma on October 22, 2008, 10:43:51 am
A personal opinion (apologies to BIC owners)

BICs and NSPs are great to start on; reasonably priced, tough and very stable, but if you plan on spending a fir amount of time in the water you will improve farly quickly and you will find them to be a bit lifeless and unresponsive, and will soon find yourself hankering after a more progressive board.

I would look for a traditional glassed minimal / funboard / hybrid shape, especially if you are learning on the east coast, where waves can be a bit gutless. The newer lightweight epoxy boards are good, but not great if there is any wind or chop on the surface.

Where were you out? If it was with C2C at Dunbar, have a chat with Tim, Josh or Sam and try out some boards from them, or ask them for advice.

Thanks for your input

I had a feeling that was the case with BICs. Some of the online reviews of these boards are glowing  :shrug:

I was out in Cornwall as my dad moved there a long time ago and I thought it was about time that I visit. Had a lesson at polzeath on one of those foam topped ones (same type as I tried in East London many years ago) and had a really good time.

I'm definately more drawn towards a mini-mal type board and don't really mind paying extra for a quality product.

Do you think that C2C are a good bet then?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2008, 10:50:20 am
If you are east coast Scotland based, they are the only bet (unless you include Granite Reef here in Aberdeen, which I wouldn't), as far as trying out boards / lessons / gear hire. They are all sound guys, good knowledge, and run a good little operation.

Online reviews of boards are not worth the paper they are written on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rodma on October 22, 2008, 11:12:26 am
If you are east coast Scotland based, they are the only bet (unless you include Granite Reef here in Aberdeen, which I wouldn't), as far as trying out boards / lessons / gear hire. They are all sound guys, good knowledge, and run a good little operation.

Online reviews of boards are not worth the paper they are written on.


Excellent, have looked them up. Swell looking good for this Sunday  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2008, 11:16:46 am
Might be OK, but forecast to be pretty windy too.

pm me an address and I will send you one C2C's weekly updates.

It's the Gathering of the Clans surf contest in Fraserburgh this weekend, might be good, usually quite festive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 24, 2008, 09:34:10 am
ALLLRRRIIIGGGHHHTTTT!!!!! I'm now the owner of a surfboard. Mad props to Chris!

Shall I pay you now? Its fuckin mahoosive, feel like I'll be able to catch the tides. Plus I now know what my reach is off the ground... 7'8"!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 24, 2008, 10:14:19 am
ALLLRRRIIIGGGHHHTTTT!!!!! I'm now the owner of a surfboard. Mad props to Chris!

Shall I pay you now? Its fuckin mahoosive, feel like I'll be able to catch the tides. Plus I now know what my reach is off the ground... 7'8"!

 :thumbsup:

Head East next week JB. Tuesday and Wednesday looking very peachy for Yorkshire.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2008, 10:32:52 am
Shall I pay you now?

Have emailed you. Glad you are stoked, hope it brings you as much joy as it has done for me.

Had last evening session of the year before clocks change on wedesday night. Tiny waves, but good fun, glad to have got in.

Looks like lunchtime and dawnies next week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 24, 2008, 11:05:21 am
Quote
Head East next week JB. Tuesday and Wednesday looking very peachy for Yorkshire.

In St. Just all week, hopefully we'll get something.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2008, 11:27:49 am
Definitely waves, but looks to be onshore winds too. Look for sheltered spots, or NE or SE facing beaches (there are a few).

Idol Eyes will know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 26, 2008, 11:08:42 pm
JB Wind is from the north Monday.  No Shelter from the wind... Head to the south coast you should score good waves there.  Praa Sands should be on...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 27, 2008, 09:59:13 am
Then looking pants for the rest of the week..

Quote
Head East next week JB. Tuesday and Wednesday looking very peachy for Yorkshire.
:'(

Nevermind, we're looking at perfect climbing conditions later in the week, cold, clear, dry and crisp days coming up. :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2008, 03:55:11 pm
good conditions in SW, snow in Aberdeen. Cairngorms are white, Lecht is closed, snow to sea level tomorrow. Makes dawnies before work a supreme effort of will. Pass the mittens and hood.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 29, 2008, 04:41:30 pm
Yep. Looking good for some hardcore bouldering action this weekend, down this way. 
Surf has disappeared and it's getting bluddy cold, snow forecast for tonight!

Quote
good conditions in SW, snow in Aberdeen. Cairngorms are white, Lecht is closed, snow to sea level tomorrow. Makes dawnies before work a supreme effort of will. Pass the mittens and hood.


Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Makes me cold justing contemplating the coldness up there getting changed must be pretty savage in the depths of winter. I'm trying to hold out on the 5mil suit, gloves, boots and hood at the moment.  Had to give in and wear the 5 mil suit last weekend but still holding out for the hood etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 06, 2008, 02:45:14 pm
It's getting kinda heavy

(http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/hugeoakley-600.jpg)

Beating doesn't sound fun either.

http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/ (http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on November 06, 2008, 02:56:14 pm
It's getting kinda heavy

(http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/hugeoakley-600.jpg)

Beating doesn't sound fun either.

http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/ (http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/huge-west-oz-wave-tow-11-5-08/)

 :o that is ludicrous!

Initially thought it would be down in Margaret River as I'd heard there are big waves up there (from surfing people I met in Perth).  Was surprised to read it was Kalbarri (7-8hours drive north of Perth), but not overly surprised at the rough seas to get out there (our whaling watching trek turned back after half an hour of ridiculous pitching).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on November 18, 2008, 07:51:08 pm
Maybe not quite the scale of the above waves but East Coast looks to be fairly sizeable at the weekend  :great:
And i'm looking forward to staying warm for a change in my new suit  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 18, 2008, 10:01:03 pm
Sods law. I am in Telford for a wedding. Look for a sheltered spot, as it is going to be windy too!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 19, 2008, 05:23:50 pm
The beating mentioned above  :o

(http://surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/hugeoakleywipe-600.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 21, 2008, 03:31:29 pm
 :spank:  Ouch!!  Doesn't bare thinking about....... hold your breath and try to chill whilst getting savagely pummelled, then work out which way is up and then calmly swim to the surface, to be faced with another one that is going to unload right in front of you...  Maximum respect to the lad, the surfing equivalent of falling off an E10???

Quote
Sods law. I am in Telford for a wedding. Look for a sheltered spot, as it is going to be windy too!

Unlucky... Too right! This N/NW wind is ruining any swell that's arriving here at the moment.. Sheltered spots on East Coast should be pretty good this weekend too, frustratingly I'm stranded here in the South West because of work commitments.  Been patiently waiting for something decent for a couple of weeks now.   :boohoo:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 24, 2008, 08:46:00 am
And the devil wind failed to appear.

As much as I love my mates and was pleased to see them married after 14 years together, seeing this on the cams when I got home is a cruel and unusual form of punishment.

(http://argus-data.wldelft.nl/sites/aberdees/2008/c1/328_Nov.23/1227445201.Sun.Nov.23_13_00_01.UTC.2008.aberdees.c1.snap.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on November 24, 2008, 09:37:48 am
Devil wind replaced by heinous snow, which made getting into and north of scarborough a very slow affair. This however, was only the start of my pain for the day.
Arrive at said point, looks good, 6ft ish some bigger, some smaller, suit up, get in. The only other 2 souls in the water get straight out leaving me on my tod. First time surfing alone, so a bit nervy. Anyhow, gave myself a talking to and got on it.
1st wave, bit late, bailed and went throught the washing machine, new suit stood up well though so no flushings. :thumbsup:
2nd wave, paddle, pop, I'm in, but somehow can't get speed to make it down the wave, try to just turn and head down the line but got spat off. More washing machine, pull board back over to find it virtually in 2  :furious: Fucker!
Went to the shop was told about 150 for a repair which I can live with.
Decide not to leave board with shop and will get sorted at later date. Driving home to Sheffield, cruising down M1 just by Leeds and there is a loud bang, I check the rear view to see my board pirouetting through the air and land in the central reservation  :furious: :furious: My soft rack had snapped. Fucker!
Do you ever get the feeling some days you should have stayed in bed!!
Hope you had a good time at your mates wedding.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 24, 2008, 09:54:31 am
Nae luck! Time for new board shopping! Solo sessions are always a bit scary, get you really focussed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 25, 2008, 04:11:57 pm
Dangereux... Wounded!  Good effort on going it alone for the first time..   A shame your board only lasted for 2 waves..  Did you have a spare?  Nothing worse than a classic session being ruined by lack of spare board, fins, leash etc..

 :o Dammit... The East Coast was rocking and with a nice snowy backdrop too!!  We're finally in for some decent swell and wind for later this week.  Fingers crossed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dangereux on November 25, 2008, 04:31:35 pm
Wounded indeed. No spare board so a long drive for not very much, but at least my new wetsuit got tested, and its a goodun, no flushings  :great:
Here is a little piccy for you.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3186/3058190103_f60b7b52d7.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 15, 2008, 05:50:49 pm
Here's some quickly edited footage from our Banyak boat trip this Summer http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd5hSLUtgro (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd5hSLUtgro)

There's loads more tapes that haven't been edited and the best days weren't video'd because we were all in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 15, 2008, 07:06:19 pm
Nice. Some of those waves don't look too vicious, would probably be OK on them. Well the rights anyway.

Too good for U-Tube, get it on Vimeo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on December 17, 2008, 03:55:12 pm
Weeeeeee!

(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/telegraph/multimedia/archive/01133/surfer-wipepout_1133858i.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on December 17, 2008, 04:00:20 pm
 :o Is that a shark chomping its jaws waiting to cushion his landing?  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on January 08, 2009, 04:29:09 pm
heads up..
any good beginner body boarding near kinsale south of Cork?

I'm planning some study leave in the area for sept time and i'm considering various recreational activities to plug in at the same time... ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dolly on January 08, 2009, 04:37:11 pm
Quote
study leave

I love that  :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 08, 2009, 08:58:42 pm
any good beginner body boarding near kinsale south of Cork?

I'm planning some study leave in the area for sept time and i'm considering various recreational activities to plug in at the same time... ;D

Luckily i have stormriders a foot to my left......

Cork......

To the west -

Garrettstown (west of Kinsale)

Two beaches are seperated by a rock point; the east beach has anice right on a SW swell, which also gives good beach breaks that are ideal for beginners , while the west beach (Coakley's) works on any swell for E to W, with mainly beach breaks on an excellent right at the W end (sic).  There are two groynes in the of the beach that are dangerous whern covered with high water.

Fennels Bay (east of Kinsale)

A little reef that works on a SSE swell. Good hollow wave from 2-4ft. Exiting from the water can be difficult.

To the east -

Ardmore (east of Youghal)

This is a sheltered bay with waves generally half the size  of the prevailinf swell. It's good in stornm swell with N wind (very rare). Enjoy the picturesque seaside village.

Basically that coast has all sorts of breaks from Skibbereen as far as Tramore (which I can confirm is a good night out, which is fortunate as there were no waves when we passed through). It needs a bit more south in the swell than the W and N coast, but the Ring of Kerry and Dingle are not far away, and worth it for the scenery if nothing else.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2009, 02:59:24 pm
Hope that info I laboriously typed out for you is of some use fatdoc.

Not sure if this should be here or YYFY, but just had a great lunchtime surf session. Hooked a half dozen long peeling rights. Sun shining, warm wetsuit, sea not that cold yet, perfect loggable waves. Crazy busy for midweek in January though, must have been well over a dozen people in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 21, 2009, 06:48:26 pm
Yes!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3298/3209734619_27b2d8b218.jpg?v=0)

Yes!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3326/3209736773_f5ff672581.jpg?v=0)

Fucking!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3328/3210586348_fd40f482be.jpg?v=0)

Yes!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3516/3210572238_ec72ca1a94.jpg?v=0)

Down with the Bic!
My first proper surfboard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 21, 2009, 07:28:54 pm
Ha nice! I knew you were jealous, now its my turn! Porth Oer?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 21, 2009, 08:38:12 pm
Nice board Clm.. Porth Oer christening too  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2009, 10:26:53 pm
Nice clm, what dimensions? I believe I once smited you for Bic ownership. As i said elsewhere, the balance is now redressed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 24, 2009, 04:06:26 pm
6 foot fishcuit.  I know thats kinda long for a fish but i went and got a good wedge of advice from magic seaweed and they said dont step down too far.  They suggested something 6-2 to 6-4 and i was chasing a nice gulf stream speed dialler quad on ebay.  Lost the auction but this turned up and from reading up found it still should have plenty of float for someone as dire at surfing (and as skinny) as me.  I had no probs once up but need to spend a bit more time in the water to get a bit more paddle fitness.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 25, 2009, 10:28:30 am
Ha nice! I knew you were jealous, now its my turn! Porth Oer?

You will have to buy new rubber before you have a turn on anything mate.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 25, 2009, 10:33:51 am
Nice clm, what dimensions? I believe I once smited you for Bic ownership. As i said elsewhere, the balance is now redressed.

Ive not forgotten the negative karma chris.  the bic lives in the van for tiny surf days.  im keeping it for the day when i share a break with you.  ill hang way out back catching everything and fall of just when i arrive anywhere near you so you can get mullered by a flying plastic log. ;) :lol: :lol: Dont think ive spent all that time on a bic without completing a full apprenticeship in how to be a complete twat in the lineup :guilty:

negative karma for owning a plastic sufboard - wheres the emoticon for mock outrage?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jim on January 25, 2009, 05:51:35 pm
Hey Clm, do you go on surfing forums showing off your new bouldering gear?

 ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 25, 2009, 07:42:53 pm
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3516/3210572238_ec72ca1a94.jpg?v=0)
Who's THAT guy? And WHOSE the talented lensman?  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2009, 09:20:46 pm
Ive not forgotten the negative karma chris.  the bic lives in the van for tiny surf days.  im keeping it for the day when i share a break with you.  ill hang way out back catching everything and fall of just when i arrive anywhere near you so you can get mullered by a flying plastic log.

I'll see your bic which you will be hanging way out back with and raise you my new 9ft 6 Epoxy longboard, used for hanging out way way out back. Perfect for catching waves before they even know they are waves. I'll wave on the way past.

Fish sounds about the right size. Mine is about 7ft.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 27, 2009, 05:38:19 pm
 :bow:  All praise to Huey.. December through to January has been one epic swell after another down here.  I've almost considered getting a second wetsuit, for rotation purposes, so there is always a dry one to pull on!  Starting to get complacent about the whole thing, skipping classic days because there's another one on the way.  Surfed at pretty much every spot from Bude to Somerset at some point.  Surfed the coldest day of the year at low-tide BIG  :o  Sandymouth, inch thick ice on the steps down to the beach, heavy heavy shore break to negotiate on way out and in etc.. etc.. Stoked as you can get.. I reckon the last month or so has been the most consistent stretch of pumping surf for quite some time.  In again tommorow, Thursday's looking good, as is Friday (but skip for a boulder comp) and Saturday looking good too!!  The Firewire is well and truly broken in...  Bring it on
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on January 30, 2009, 10:43:10 am
(http://www.abc.net.au/reslib/200901/r334831_1515316.jpg)

Taken today at Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania. Looks like fun.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2009, 11:24:21 am
When I saw that double lip I knew it was shipstern. Wavespotter geek me.

Looks fun and terrifying at the same time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 07, 2009, 11:33:42 am
http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=7 (http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=7)

The rodeo thing in the tube is awesome!! :jaw:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 07, 2009, 11:41:26 am
Also good

http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=30 (http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=30)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 12, 2009, 07:26:23 pm
New board.
Hobie.
9'6.
Midget Smith (deceased).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 13, 2009, 11:32:42 am
Here it is!  Got married in October and this was delivered to me on the morning of my wedding, a gift from the wife.  A good starting point for married life me thinks...

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/3276524582_0b157d0859.jpg)

FireWire 6''2 - Rounded Pin - Parabolic Balsa Rails - Goes like a rocket and holds it's rail splendidly in sucky fast barrelling surf.  I almost sacked the wedding to elope with it...

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3450/3276524600_75b325eb01.jpg)

Next appointment with Mr C Royde - Low tide this arvo
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 17, 2009, 09:25:22 pm
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3106/3363111957_d27d6b61e1_o.jpg)
The Wire and the Granticus in action on a little raid to Cornwall, Godrevy - 28th Feb.. 8)
and the forecast for the week ahead is flat, flat, flat...  It's good to have memories of days like this to tide you over.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 17, 2009, 10:58:51 pm
Nice little cover up, not bad for a spazz foot.

No line on the horizon here, to quite those irish tossers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 18, 2009, 02:35:34 pm
Quote
Nice little cover up, not bad for a spazz foot.
Errr! Cheers. Charts are looking guff for the foreseeable future but it is due to be dry for a long period too, time to surf some granite me thinks...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 18, 2009, 05:58:23 pm
Fistral was pumpimg yesterday!!!!
Had to leave it to come up to work!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 18, 2009, 06:16:13 pm
The Wire and the Granticus in action on a little raid to Cornwall, Godrevy - 28th Feb.. 8)

Very nice....

I got in for the first time for months on Sunday on the reef at Hells Mouth. Surprised myself to find I could still surf...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 19, 2009, 03:28:38 pm
Quote
Fistral was pumpimg yesterday!!!!
Had to leave it to come up to work!!!
Nice little clean wave apparently but not what I would describe as pumpology. It's gotta be at least shoulder high.. :P
Quote
I got in for the first time for months on Sunday on the reef at Hells Mouth. Surprised myself to find I could still surf...
Yeah it's like riding a bike you know! Seen some choice piccies from Hell's Mouth recently, chunky hollow and crystal clear water,  looks class when it's working.  I'm guessing big swell from the S/SW, light winds or northerlies will make you folks happy?  The question is, is it worth a long trip up there or am I better off hitting S Coast spots down here that will fire in similar conditions??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2009, 03:59:33 pm
FD you up here next week? Poss some wave action if wind plays ball?  Evening sessions are on now. Stick a wetty in if you got room.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 19, 2009, 04:52:41 pm
Fistral was pumpimg yesterday!!!!
Had to leave it to come up to work!!!
Yep - its been great for several days now. Sunday we bouldered at fistral followed by a mellow sunset surf, not so good for the fingertips but there we go..

almost flat now, although apparently gwenvor was still a good 3ft yesterday, a real swell magnet that place
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 19, 2009, 05:57:46 pm
Quote
almost flat now, although apparently gwenvor was still a good 3ft yesterday, a real swell magnet that place

Hmmmmmmm.....  Was thinking weather is so good this weekend shame there is no surf... but on the other hand :goodidea:  I can feel another Cornish swell hunting raid coming on... Good bouldering at Gwenver too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 19, 2009, 07:25:33 pm
You from round there Ben!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2009, 08:46:33 pm
http://video.mpora.com/watch/YMuA06YNV/ (http://video.mpora.com/watch/YMuA06YNV/)

great Aileen's footage, plus some other nice clips.

I know it should be in quality non-climbing vids but not many people are interested.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 20, 2009, 10:18:48 am
Quote
great Aileen's footage, plus some other nice clips.

Nice one Chris... Probably the best footage i've seen from Aileen's and the the first proper barrel I've seen there too.  Heavy music for a heavy wave  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 20, 2009, 11:01:43 am
Anyone for the lleyn at easter?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 20, 2009, 12:42:29 pm
You from round there Ben!

assuming that's a question .. am from Bodmin way but now live near Truro

granticus - there's talk of a hidden underlying swell sneaking in at the weekend, however the winds will probably mess it up
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 20, 2009, 07:15:01 pm
Er...Yeah, Oh! Ok.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 21, 2009, 09:42:52 am
FD you up here next week? Poss some wave action if wind plays ball?  Evening sessions are on now. Stick a wetty in if you got room.


Not up next week but will be the following week. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2009, 10:21:17 am
Cool, clocks will have changed by then, let's hope there some waves about.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 28, 2009, 11:13:42 am
Slop, slop and more slop... :yawn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2009, 01:40:58 pm
howling windes here again. Snow this morning.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 28, 2009, 07:19:28 pm
Big swells out here at sea... strong winds too!
been watching the pulse all day... nothing else to do.
Funny how relaxing the vessel that I am on feels when it pitches and rolls... lot of sea sick folk.
Back for Easter... any one know what the breaks @ the Gower are called...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2009, 08:31:39 pm
Back for Easter... any one know what the breaks @ the Gower are called...


Llangenith is the main one. Big west facing beach. Often good banks, but a bith of a paddle when it's big.
Langland and Caswell can be good, but worth driving to Llangenith if you are going that far.

Oxwitch and Horton are worth remembering as they face SE and are offshore in big westerlies and storm swells.

Hopefully wind is good for early a.m. here tomorrow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 29, 2009, 06:44:25 am
Nice one SA.
going to throw away my stormrider, and just phone you!
Has dropped off out here! wind is still a little strong, but looks like a good swell could hit you...
have a good one!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on March 29, 2009, 10:54:13 am
amazing camera work/smooth step off for the first one, rest ain't too shabby either

http://surfermag.com/av/flash/2009_billabong_xxl_ride_of_the_year_nominees/ (http://surfermag.com/av/flash/2009_billabong_xxl_ride_of_the_year_nominees/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 29, 2009, 07:32:24 pm
Has dropped off out here! wind is still a little strong, but looks like a good swell could hit you...
have a good one!

Managed an early start, in spite of clock change screwing with my head. Banff was clean first thing, nice longboard waves on the beach, and just the 2 of us in initially. Cold air made water feel warmer, and nice chilly offshore breeze and sunny. Got a bit windier later and log was acting like a sail, so switched to fish and got on a fun little peak in the smaller beach that gets shelter from dunes and sea wall. Had a couple of good hours on that - 4 hours in water in total, all good apart from shoulder playing up again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 30, 2009, 12:25:01 pm
Tip for your shoulder...
try reversing the paddleing motion when ever you can! I.E when not surfing...
This helps the rotator cuff or something.
I had this issue... now I do not!
so there....
Love to surf Banff
doin two week on and of rotations... might stash a board up in Abo 4 the summer!!!!
Yeah baby... SUMMER!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 30, 2009, 12:47:42 pm
I've got a mental image of you stood on a platform in full PPE, eyeing the swells crossing the horizon whilst doing backstroke arm movements. Do the roughnecks treat you like the local loon?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2009, 02:03:27 pm
doin two week on and of rotations... might stash a board up in Abo 4 the summer!!!!

Space in our garage, rent is reasonable, portion of all monies accrued to the PatKingDebtCollection.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 30, 2009, 07:01:42 pm
Er... thanks anyway S.A. but I may just use the office!

They totally think I am Loonatune out here, even I have reserved my self to insanity...
I LOVE it... never been happier.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 30, 2009, 09:02:46 pm
Quote
I LOVE it... never been happier.

Being treated as a 'Loonatune' or doing rotations offshore?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 30, 2009, 09:48:45 pm
Nah, my madness...
Fully developed my traditional style on the longboard!
cross stepping and back peddleing
Developed switch foot stance
Fins first take offs!!!
if you do Magic seaweed!
go to mexico
look at the small thumbnail video
Tis me last year...
I am 500x better!!!!
Must hook up JB
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2009, 09:37:33 pm
Going the same route as me; passed on my Roger Cooper minimal to a worthy recipient recently!

Not sure about Spider board - used to have good rep in SA, but have they gone mass production on some of the original Spider Murphy shapes and downhill in quality I think.

if you do a google search there are a few threads elsewhere that cast my boubts on quality.

Personally i went for a 7 ft 2" bullet fish (I am 6 ft 2") basically a drawn out fish shape, which took a bit of getting used to, but I love it now.

others know a fair bit more than me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 01, 2009, 01:19:39 am
Spider Boards...
They are now shaped in Newquay (aswell as SA)... mostly by Daniel Keggie, (DK Surfari).
He shaped my 9.4
You need to contact Brandon @ emoceanal... Newquay.
They still use a type of foam that is banned every where in the world except SA (the Manufacturing process is banned) however this is a bad thing for the folk that make the stuff, but great for surf boards... It really is light and suits fishes, funboards and alike!!!
Pin tails all the way for me now!!! loose and more acute take off ratios...
Think a egg could be worth looking at... Or 9plus magic carpets... But they a bit too retro for most! suit Longboarders!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 01, 2009, 04:55:05 pm
Quote
Does anyone have any experience of Spider boards?

Yep, Have a 6'' 8 squash tail thruster (kinda like a fat boy flyer thing, ie. lots of volume, good as a drop down board when moving towards a 'proper' shortboard).  The board goes very well, particularly in down the line point break surf I think Spider Murphy tested his shapes at J-Bay??  It is, however, let down by quality ie. a crappy glass job and has prooved to be fairly repair intensive.  There's more filler than board!

7''0 Rounded Pin from a mini-mal??  :-\ Hmmmmm..  7''0 rounded pin says this to me... large and I mean large (overhead plus) barrelling surf, the size would allow you to get into the wave ealier and the rounded pin would give you the hold you need to handle such waves.  It all comes down to how you want your surfing to progress and what kind of waves you want to get on.  So what are you after in your surfing experience... just gliding nice and smooth in a straight line, hot dogging (cross stepping, nose riding etc.), barrels, lip snaps/smashing, big hacks, aerials, big waves, small waves, what's your pleasure?  there will be a board to suit.  A few more questions where would you normally surf and what size waves do you feel confident in? Are you looking to drop down to an even shorter board in the future?(be honest!).  This will give us something to go on and then we can prescribe the correct treatment for your surfing needs.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 01, 2009, 09:22:35 pm

I had heard about the glassing being an issue, but could only find old threads on the internet referring to them, so was wondering if it could be a problem of the past? SA Chris, when you say cast your doubts on this, do you mean they confirm your doubts or cast them into a firey pit of hell? Afraid I'm a bit too tired to read anything more complex than the beano at the moment.


I mean that they cause me to cast doubts on the quality. Unless you are going for super high performance, go for a heavier quality glass.

My understanding of foam manufacture is that one process ( I think the one that uses TDI - trimethyl di-isocyanate) is banned in most countries, due to harmful emissions which are bad for the planet, but SA regulations are a bit more lax.

Is the Roger Cooper a lightwieght epoxy board? I assumed it was conventional glass fibre? Reason I ask is that I have lightweight epoxy longboard, and it is really dire in any wind or chop, which slaps the bottom and reverberates.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 02, 2009, 04:10:13 pm
Gruff - Epoxy is the resin coating.  The O'Shea boards are still hand shaped.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 02, 2009, 05:40:20 pm
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.

Not sure what the others are going to recommend for you, but i have a 6'11 Spider Murphy thruster i am about to de-wax and sell on ebay. I used it as a transition board from Mal to shortboard. With your height it might not be a bad option?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 02, 2009, 06:37:57 pm
Do not like poxys!!!
Tufflites r okish,
think shortboards like the bonzers suit Epoxy/tufflite fabrics...
but anything larger... to much reverberation (or something like that).
you can get Bamboo boards nowadaze... and balsa... think the size and ethical statements you have made may warrant research here!
Foam boards are where its at!!!
Triple, or rosewood stringer 9 footers...
single fins and funky concaves...
Oh yeah!!!


I am the wrong person to ask for advice though...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 02, 2009, 07:13:28 pm
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.

Not sure what the others are going to recommend for you, but i have a 6'11 Spider Murphy thruster i am about to de-wax and sell on ebay. I used it as a transition board from Mal to shortboard. With your height it might not be a bad option?



Worth checking out Gruff.. sounds like it might be exactly what you're looking for. 

Do you know what the other dimensions of the 7'0 rounded pin are.  I've got one that I use as my travel board (18.5" wide and 2 1/4" thick)and it's exactly as Granticus describes.. made for big heavy surf and and it wouldn't suit what you're looking for at all.  My mate has a 7'0 rounded pin that's more like a slim mini mal/funboard that would be right up your street.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 07, 2009, 08:35:22 am
According to the Roger Cooper site info, all of his boards are glass. I think it's just incredibly buoyant, it has a lot of volume. So it's not just me being a bit soft then? Having the board reverberate gets on your tits as well?

Speaking of epoxy...is there a consensus yet? Good, bad, no different? O'shea claim to make hand shaped epoxy boards...is that possible? Forgive my ignorance.

On his site he does have a few epoxy boards, in the minimal and longboard sections, and makes them to order, so you may have ended up with a 2nd hand one. My "epoxy" board is fantastic in calm conditions, but if it is anything but glass and more wind than a light breeze, it slaps around on any chop and reverberates like hell, and I get my fish out.

I would avoid it in an all-round board myself.

There was a good article in Surfer's Path a while ago about pros and cons of different cores, can scan it for you if you want.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 10, 2009, 09:11:16 am
Quote
I'm generally happy in anything up to head high surf, and have occasionally bricked it in bigger. And whilst I realise I have a long way to go in surfing, I just feel like I'm gravitating back towards a slightly shorter board. Not exactly shortboard, just shorter board, I'm also just not that keen on long boarding, and don't really see the attraction in nose riding/ cross stepping etc.

My suggestion would be to go for something in the 6''8 to 6''10 ish range with plenty of volume and go for a modern template (ie. thruster) but don't get a retro board.  Would also suggest going for a squash tail (rounded).  The idea being to give you more manoeverability, whilst maintaining some float to give you a little more ease of paddling.  As for your backhand take offs... The problems you are experiencing are common and more practice to get things right will be all that'll help...   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 10, 2009, 09:27:24 am
 :) Adam's board would probably fit the bill for someone of your stature. Check the dimensions and make sure it's got plenty of volume...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 15, 2009, 01:37:04 pm
Good surf here, fistral peaked at about 8ft with the Cribber going off! elsewhere Clean!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 16, 2009, 11:32:33 am
Went to Watergate on Monday - lovely.

Moving to Devon in the summer. Where's best to get some practice in on the East coast before then? I live in Sheffield.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 12:49:37 pm
Lleyn was good all easter. This was about the only time it wasn't blazing sunshine.

(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/NWales/ceriad-5.jpg)

Seem to be improving every session at the mo which is encouraging, need more fitness though and struggling getting out through the white water, got absolutlely worked the last two sessions. Any tips on getting a biggish board out through the breakers? What about turns? I'm pretty much totally self taught at the mo... making it up as I go...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 16, 2009, 01:07:16 pm
JB - what size/style board is it?

minimal upwards the popular technique is to make use of that extra length and get more ground covered between waves, then just paddle at 'em and hope. Pushing the nose under the lip/whitewater should stop you being flipped over backwards.  Another longboard technique is to roll over and pull the nose of the board down under the white water but I've never really mastered it and its time consuming.  Making up ground between waves and using the layout of the beach to your advantage are the keys though, ie don't just paddle straight out but weave around peaks to avoid the worst bits
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 16, 2009, 01:23:42 pm
used the power of my mind to find out what i needed:

http://magicseaweed.com/ (http://magicseaweed.com/)
http://www.a1surf.com/ (http://www.a1surf.com/)

for future ref.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 01:49:48 pm
Cheers for the tips Ben, its a 7'8" minimal. I've been trying the roll over technique and by the time I've sorted myself out the next wave is bearing down. Guess I'll try to be a bit bolder paddling straight at them, I was tending to abandon the board when I thought I was about to get flattened. Setting out from the beach I was doing Ok at following the rips, but getting back out after a wave I wasn't so clever.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 16, 2009, 02:11:43 pm
JB - another trick is to bide your time a bit. If you've just had a wave and the rest of the set is piling through, just hang out in the water, holding onto your leash and ducking your head under the waves - until a lull arrives.. then paddle like billio. tbh there doesn't seem to be a great technique for that kind of size board, however it looks like you're getting on ok from that pic, so you may be able to move onto a reasonably fat floaty shorter board sometime soon which you can duck dive.
Abandoning the board is fine if there's no one behind you, but again hold onto the leash so that its closer to hand to get back on after the wave - i find this kind of thing is quicker than trying the rollover thing, getting it wrong and then trying to recover in time
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2009, 02:11:47 pm
JB, what do you weigh? I could duck dive that board reasonably well but you need to be pretty aggressive. It's worth watching the waves and waiting for lulls between sets and then stroking for the horizon. before I learned to duckdive reasonably (I'm still pretty crap) I used to either a) wrap arms around top of board and just push it forward through wave, or b) if they are small enough, push up on the board so that it would sink and let the "wave" pass between me and the board. Never got on with the longboard roll technique - you don't cover thant much ground between waves.

What do you mean by turns? Judging by pic, first you need to get out the white water (you don't look far off); try paddling diagonally instead of straight for shore, and correct, so that the wave reaches you where it is peeling along the line. As you get to your feet look down the line where you want to go and you (should) go in that direction. easier to learn this front hand rather than back hand first. For turns up and dwon wave apply snowboard technique, but exaggerate it a bit. Glad you are progressing.

Abandoning the board is never a good idea in my opinion. You learn more from duking it out with the waves, and lose time retrieving the board before getting going again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 02:18:32 pm
Cheers guys, that's just what I was after. I'm 11 1/2 stone, to be honest I think the waves were a little big for me at the mo, the smallest session I got on great. All beach breaks though so not much consistency in where they break, I did get a couple of waves where I was out of the white water, more by luck though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 16, 2009, 03:09:04 pm
Nic pic JB..

First off, try to get used to not abandoning your board at the first sign of trouble. It's a bad habit for a number of reasons:

- It's dangerous if there are other surfers in the water.  
- You'll regret it the one day you do it in in big surf and your leash breaks leaving you in the sh*t.
- It's sort of like resting on gear or grabbing a clip in that it'll become a habit every time a large set looms on the horizon and one that's hard to break.
- It'll actually drag you further backwards more than hanging on and taking a beating.

Just hold on to the damn thing for dear life. When you start going out in heavy places you'll appreciate why.  I have indentations in the rails of a couple of my boards from gripping so tight.

As for paddling out, like the others have said.  

- Wait for the lulls, but start to paddle out just at the end of a set so you are already motoring during the lull.  
- Paddle out away from the peak rather than into it, if you are surfing the mouth, there are rips either side of the main boardwalk peak that offer an easier route out back.
- Keep paddling until you are sure you are out back. Usually the water colour will change to a deeper blue, green (or brown) when you're out of where the waves have been breaking.  Once you're there, give yourself plenty of time to recover and let a set or two go through.
- Keep your head down, forehead on the front of the board and keep a steady even stroke and it'll take some of the strain off the shoulders.
- If you've caught a wave rather than paddling right back out to the peak keep heading diagonally to the direction in which you were riding away from the peak as it's likely that the water is draining back that way and you'll eventually pick up a rip.

Duck diving
- It's tricky on bigger boards but one way is to make sure you tilt it sideways as you push it down so it cuts through the water easier.

Turns?

- You're probably looking down at your feet a lot at the moment so once you get confident just look and point (seriously) where you want the board to go and it will do so through the twist in your shoulders  :).

Me and Mrs FD have a few weekends in Abersoch coming up so I'll PM you once we have dates firmed and see if we can catch some waves.




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 03:29:57 pm
Perfect. I've left all my stuff stashed down there so will be well keen.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2009, 03:33:11 pm
I'm 11 1/2 stone

Quite a bit less than me, but I have seen guys with less weither than me duckdive it. As always, more about technique that power. I found practicing duckdiving when you don't have to (in about chest high where you can stand up if it goes wrong) to be a bit of a confidence builder.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on April 16, 2009, 08:30:05 pm
i found a weird sort of press up/ half duck dive worked ok on the big bic.  kinda punch the nose of the board under the white and dive yourself as over/through it as you can.  i still seemed to spend an awful lot of time getting mullered.  can duck dive the new one 8)

ps.  how on earth did you manage to get to nigels port when it wasnt force 6 onshore.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2009, 10:19:59 pm
That photo is at Ceriad, should be obvious from the peak (and lack of chop). Weather was amazing all weekend though, light winds and swell, mostly sunshine (Jim asked if I'd been on a sunbed today), when we left on weds there was still a decent swell and the wind was even offshore.

Most of the time the waves were too big for the push-up method. It worked fine on the smaller ones though. Got the new board sussed yet?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 17, 2009, 08:52:16 am
It's not the easiest place to learn to surf with it being so peaky and with the wave jacking up quickly so good effort.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 17, 2009, 09:01:09 am
(http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/102472.jpg)

Words not required.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 17, 2009, 10:32:34 am
Must be getting warm in Aberdeen.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 17, 2009, 10:39:11 am
In my dreams.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 18, 2009, 11:49:33 am
With my boards, I tend to paddle through the breakers with the board backwards... then hold your ground before the lull, swing it back to paddle mode and make for it out back... This really work for me in bigger water...
Also stops turtle rolling which is totally gay and should be banned at all good breaks...
Just kidding,
Nice pic JB did you take it?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 18, 2009, 12:41:52 pm
Hey all,

Am looking at replacing a Roger Cooper 7'6" mini-mal with something a tad shorter.

Does anyone have any experience of Spider boards? Think they're shaped in SA, Chris?

Am specifically looking at: 7'0" Round Pin Tail (http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/cgi-bin/miva?wcs/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=1&Product_Code=SPI70R&Category_Code=SPIDER)

Any thoughts or alternatives even?

Cheers,

Gruff

Hey Gruff,
without know your weight and height and types of breaks your surfing. beach breaks i guess.. (weight around 70 -80 kg around 5'10 tall??)
i would suggest getting a round square tail around 6'6 to 6'8 19 1/2 inches wide and around 2 1/2 inches thick (max) 2 5/16 (min)
at first this will feel like a toothpick. but it will give you a new found freedom in getting out the back without expending copious amounts of energy.
learning / stepping up from learning using a big board (6'10 or bigger) or mal is a false economy...
yes you will be able to stand up and drive a stright line to the sand quicker, but the essential skills of duck diving will never or at least take a millenium to master.
why spend 80% of your session getting battered and washed back to shore when you could be spending 60% learning to duck dive. the other 20% learning to stand up and progressing with your turns, the remaining 20% you will spend paddling around going for waves that you have no chance in hell of catching or paddling for waves that close out be fore you get to your feet.
i'm not being condescending, but this last 20% will slowly go away in time / experience.

history and the shear volume of square tail boards being produced worldwide show that it is a proven shape.
from my experience in surfing in the uk, this style of board will be well suited for you until you get to a level when you exactly know what you want without needing to ask others.

an epoxy board maybe handy, as i they offer some longevity compared to foam boards.


 i hope this advice helps..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2009, 11:09:06 am
Who thinks it's time to start a separate Surf board (no pun intended) on ukb? Seems like there are a good few of us who're into it.

I think it's a good idea? Lots of info gets squeezed into this one thread.

Had good surf Sat afternoon at Aberdeen on longobard, then on fish at Philorth Fraserburgh on Sunday morning. Sun was shining, and only two of us in water for most of session. Started off good, but low tide banks were a mess, so session went downhill quite rapidly.

Nice beach - quite atmospheric, and Fraserburgh is nicer from a distance, and the recent wreck of the Sovereign is quite impressive.

(http://www.petercrumpler.co.uk/The%20Sea/album/slides/Shipwreck%20near%20Fraserburgh.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 11:20:28 am
Quote
Nice pic JB did you take it?

No Ellie took it, its me...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave on April 20, 2009, 11:31:10 am
i had this vision of you setting the self-timer and paddled out like billio.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: cofe on April 20, 2009, 11:34:42 am
...shouting "beat that, Galen!"

 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 20, 2009, 12:36:04 pm
Hey Gruff,
without know your weight and height and types of breaks your surfing. beach breaks i guess.. (weight around 70 -80 kg around 5'10 tall??)
i would suggest getting a round square tail around 6'6 to 6'8 19 1/2 inches wide and around 2 1/2 inches thick (max) 2 5/16 (min)
at first this will feel like a toothpick. but it will give you a new found freedom in getting out the back without expending copious amounts of energy.
learning / stepping up from learning using a big board (6'10 or bigger) or mal is a false economy...

Hi Gav good to hear from you.

I hear what you're saying but only half agree. You're a miles better surfer than anyone on here and I totally respect your opinions when it comes to surfing but I'm wondering whether you are overestimating peoples ability to learn quickly.  I remember going to Spain with Darren when he was on a 6'8 and he struggled his t*ts off the whole time just catching waves and getting to his feet. I thought he should have been on something bigger and more stable - not a mini-mal but a larger funboard.  I just think that for a weekend warrior, covered in neoprane who isn't going to get that much water time going down to a 6'6 is too much of a big step... but then again you never know eh  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 20, 2009, 12:45:40 pm

Seem to be improving every session at the mo which is encouraging, need more fitness though and struggling getting out through the white water, got absolutlely worked the last two sessions. Any tips on getting a biggish board out through the breakers? What about turns? I'm pretty much totally self taught at the mo... making it up as I go...

a very useful tip is buy a water proof watch. time how much time passes in between sets. do this over 3 sets of sets. you should get a fairly good idea on how much time you have to get out the back.
given that the UK generally has short period swell, it won't be that long a time frame.
also count how many waves per set (3-5). when you're ready to do battle, wait for the second last wave of the set to break out the back. when that has happened, start your journey.
put your head down an paddle hard.
as perviously mentioned, look for the obvious advantages like rips or deep gutters to cover ground quickly.

addit: if you are going to bail out, grab on to your rail saver (the webbed section of your leg rope that meets the string of your board) hang on like your life depended on it. this will mean that your board has less chance of smaking someone in the head, and also means your board will be net to you to get on quicker to get the hell out of there.
PS, don't hold it next to the plug, if your hand gets caught between the leggie and board, you'll be hurting...

another thing, very simple, if your with others in the line up, tell them your intentions. atleast they will have time to get away from you.

in regards to turns, learnand master the cross over stepping. this is moving up or down the board stepping over the other foot. not a shuffle, this is a invaluable skill that will help you make those subtle adjustments in a quick effiecient manner.

if you want any more info, feel free to give me a PM.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 12:54:05 pm
Cheers for the tips. Bit confused on the cross-step though, only on a 7'8" which would seem like a big (not subtle aty any rate) adjustment? Maybe my feet are too far apart to start with?

Anyone for lleyn may bank?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 20, 2009, 01:02:11 pm
cross stepping is the same as walking on a tight rope.
albeit not as wobbly.
the natural tendency is to shuffle both feet forward / backward keeping your prefferred foot always at the front.
this will take time, best way is to find a slow fat wave and trim along it. i can't think of many classic points over there, probably the caves at sandsend, thats a great longboard wave.
as i don't surf there any more, i don't mind tell people to surf there   :guilty:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 20, 2009, 01:22:04 pm
how do i put images on here??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 01:38:33 pm
Ah, I see. Like going switch on a snowboard?

Posting pics: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6411.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6411.0.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 20, 2009, 01:47:35 pm
erm, no, not like going switch.
what you are doing is moving forward / backward on your board.
generally backward over the fins / tail to urn you mal, moving forward to ganin trim speed, going over a flat bit of water and either hanging five or ten.
being in sheff, you have many ways to practice this. when leaving the sheaf view, find the gutter edge and walk along it. backward and forward.
the shuffle technic is like little jumps with both feet, stepping over is a more elegant method of walking up / down the board. if you can do this after 6 pints of warmiester or kuppers Kolsch you'll be ripping in no time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2009, 01:49:21 pm

I hear what you're saying but only half agree. You're a miles better surfer than anyone on here and I totally respect your opinions when it comes to surfing but I'm wondering whether you are overestimating peoples ability to learn quickly.  I remember going to Spain with Darren when he was on a 6'8 and he struggled his t*ts off the whole time just catching waves and getting to his feet. I thought he should have been on something bigger and more stable - not a mini-mal but a larger funboard.  I just think that for a weekend warrior, covered in neoprane who isn't going to get that much water time going down to a 6'6 is too much of a big step... but then again you never know eh  :shrug:

I see both sides of this. I think if you are prepared to put the days and hours in and struggle initially on a shortboard, you will make more gains in the long term, but have a pretty miserable time of it and take a big share of hard knocks to body, ego and spirit. If, however, you only surf occasionally and want to enjoy the ride and progress steadily, making a gradual transition down the board sizes is the way to go.

JB, we are in the County over the early may bank, so will be in the water there if there are any waves about, an option if the forecast is good.

Cross stepping is stylistically and technically better and something to aim for, but when starting off the old two step shuffle can be effective.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 01:52:50 pm
Right. Sounds like what Idol eyes is up to on his mexico vid. I'm okay on a slackline so I guess I can skip the sheaf gutter. Getting a ride long enough to start wandering about might be a challenge though, I'll try the shuffle thing though, had a couple of rides where it was immediately obvious I was too far back or forward.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2009, 01:55:00 pm
On your board it is pretty obvious where you want your feet to be - some pressure dents there!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 20, 2009, 02:07:37 pm
next time you take your wax off, get a marker pen and mark on the deck where you want your front foot when you get up.
kick your missus out of bed, get your board on it, sans fins. and practice jumping to your feet.
look at wheere they are inrelation to therea re from the black line.

i had a mega eddie aikau power stance as a grommet, but this technique brought my feet closer and and helped my percentages in getting to my feet first go.

pressure dents on the deck may not be indicative as to where your feet need to be if your aren't getting it right all the ime.
also being on a mal, your feet should be all over the board after getting to your feet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 20, 2009, 03:03:14 pm
On 'Turning'...

On a long board (or any board for that matter) you will need to have your back foot over the fins (ie. right at the back of the board).
The movement you require is rotational and starts with your head (mastering these rotational movements will enable you to generate speed as well!) 
Turn your head to where you want to go and the rest of the body will follow, along with your board.
You can practice this and visualise the movements on dry land.
Stand in your surfing stance, get nice and crouched, rotate your body (start with your head) in the direction you wish to turn.  If you do this in socks on a slippy floor your front foot should get dragged around.
Now do this with your eyes closed imagining you are KS or whoever your chosen surfing hero is.  Visualise the take off, the bottom turn, lining up the lip, the turn off the lip... etc..
For cut backs, big hacks, big carves etc.. this basic movement is adjusted, a slower wider arc for big carves, a faster more exagerrated movement for that wack the lip send a fan of spray thing...
Linking turns together will generate speed (pumping)...
Watch videos and other surfers to see how others work with the waves..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2009, 09:38:51 am
This has just been published.

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Q74PELNSL._SL500_AA240_.jpg)

If it's anything like Surf Science it will be worth getting, just hope it isn't a rehash of the info in that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 24, 2009, 12:20:43 pm
fantastic swell down here... really good few daze... yesterday was fully cooking at Fistral.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 25, 2009, 10:11:05 am
same down here, yesterday solid double overhead (6ft) and off shore, today was absolute perfection blues skies and slight offshores - 8 ft with rouge 10 ft clean ups. :o  :o
very very scary the 10footers were absolutley terrifying...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 25, 2009, 08:17:56 pm
Where is down here?
Towan beaches pumped some good lines through, tomorrow should reduce size... and increase in quality!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 26, 2009, 10:53:03 am
HMP Australia
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 29, 2009, 05:34:54 pm
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3082/2367849995_116c710407_o.jpg)

For Gruff!  It wasn't like this last weekend now was it!!!???   :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Turboman on May 05, 2009, 10:36:50 am
Heading to the West Coast of France (Vendee region) in July for a fortnight of summer surf.

I'm trying to solve the annual conundrum of keeping the misses happy with restaurants, shops and general sightseeing whilst maximising wave time for me.

Looking for any campsite/gite recommendations close to or on a beach with a reasonable wave.

I've cross referenced wannasurf with Eurocamp and it seems the whole coast is one long beach break/campsite. 

Anyone stayed near Sable D'Olonne or St Gile Croix de Vie?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2009, 01:17:04 pm
More cross forum posts http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=16166 (http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=16166)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Turboman on May 05, 2009, 02:48:50 pm
Cheers Chris,

Been having problems getting on Magicseaweed
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11595.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11595.0.html)

Managed to find a cached page

Les Sable D'olonne on a peninsula called la chaume, you can see the site on google earth and it is right on the beach on the edge of a forest and sand dunes and you can get on a water taxi accross to Les Sable D'olonne for the town and restaurants . I went for 10 days from june 22 last year and had epic surf every day minimum 5ft. I found a beach which had superb surf less than 5 mins away from our site called sauveteer. Loads of beaches with loads of great surf.
I have booked again and am going again on june 20th.


Sounds perfect.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 05, 2009, 04:37:01 pm
Quote
I know it isn't exactly hand made by a local shaper but I did a bit of research before parting with the money and think it'll do for me for the moment. It was Bill Attlee - the shapers - comments in this thread that swayed me, I wouldn't have been particularly interested in something made in China otherwise
Yeah... A lot of shapers are sourcing their work out to China nowadays, you may well be supporting your local shaper who is then in turn supporting machine operaters out in China.  It's difficult one!  The boards look good though, think it is more important to hear that the shaper has a good relationship with the factory and is keeping a handle on quality etc..  Let us know how she rides!

My climbing strength is improving no end at the moment... ie... the surf has been pish!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2009, 05:10:49 pm

My climbing strength is improving no end at the moment... ie... the surf has been pish!

You don't know pish mate. East coast has been flat for ages, and nothing in the forecast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 05, 2009, 05:15:44 pm
Following on from my post earlier about my board that i am selling. Anyone care to suggest how much its worth now.  :shrug: I am out the loop with surfboard prices now, having not been in the water for ages.

Its a 6ft 11 Spider Murphy Thruster. Excellent condition.

Going to put it on ebay, but if anyone on here wants it let me know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 05, 2009, 05:47:49 pm
Following on from my post earlier about my board that i am selling. Anyone care to suggest how much its worth now.  :shrug: I am out the loop with surfboard prices now, having not been in the water for ages.

Its a 6ft 11 Spider Murphy Thruster. Excellent condition.

Going to put it on ebay, but if anyone on here wants it let me know.

I'll swap it for first edition copy of Extreme Rock (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11557.0/all.html)  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on May 07, 2009, 07:28:12 am
This link shows sennen cove in a major storm in March 08.  anyone who has surfed or climbed there will probably be quite astonished.  Do you think demo route will be in nick?

http://www.sennen-cove.com/10march08.htm (http://www.sennen-cove.com/10march08.htm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 07, 2009, 08:56:03 am
A tad damp perhaps (not the same storm though, dated 29 December 2008)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3106/3147575406_5c38526320.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/phil_berriman/3147575406/)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 07, 2009, 10:09:16 am
I'm heading to Abersoch tonight until Monday.  Looks like the North Coast will get some swell and be offshore tomorrow teatime.  PM me if anyone is around...

Ben
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 08, 2009, 12:42:07 pm
Heading to the West Coast of France (Vendee region) in July for a fortnight of summer surf.
Have been a couple of times to Cap d'Homy which is halfway between Bordeaux and Biarritz. Little 'summer bay' type place, big campsite, boulanger, small grocers, bar and a surf shop.. all you need. Campsite is relatively cheap, really good and 5mins walk to the plage. Lovely tarmac cycle tracks up/down the coast (great restaurant to cycle to for lunch 40mins up coast). Funky old lighthouse. Wave isn't the best in the area but reasonably decent and gets same swell as others obviously.  Only thing is if weather/surf aint great then there isn't really anything to do close by, but that sums up that whole bit of coast really.

Campsite here >>
http://www.camping-cap.com/ (http://www.camping-cap.com/)

surf might finally come good for SW this weekend, light winds
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 12, 2009, 08:29:56 am
Some nice surfing footage on the BBC's South Pacific (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00kjjnx/South_Pacific_Series_1_Ocean_of_Islands/). Slo-mo, high def from inside the wave. Its all in the first ten minutes, then there's a bit on how they filmed it at the end.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 12, 2009, 12:06:57 pm
Saw a trailer for the ultra-slo-mo Hi Def waves the other day on BBC but forgot to watch the program last night  :rtfm:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 12, 2009, 12:12:03 pm
It's on iPlayer. Watched it last night, will watch again tnight, and probably tomorrow. Just love it. And the "too small" waves looked ideal to me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 12, 2009, 12:12:13 pm
Yeah, those vortices are astonishing. I love the smoothness of the barrels broken only by drops falling off the lip too. The footage of the waves alone was so good I was pretty surprised when a surfer slid into view.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 13, 2009, 05:20:58 am
Beautifull!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2009, 08:05:39 am
Check out those vortices! How does that work?

Trying to figure that one out. I reckon the wave front moves faster than the back, so pressure decreases in the middle of the wave and sucks air in. Sort of like cavitation. Looks amazing anyway.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 13, 2009, 09:23:46 am
IIRC The vortices you can see in shot are like just waves forming on the lip of the bigger wave and is something to do with what chris described.

You boys need to get to Indo on a boat trip so you can do this kind of thing for real.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2009, 09:54:20 am
No-one likes a gloater. Maybe one day.....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 13, 2009, 10:00:18 am
I have bodysurfed/ snorkelled inside waves at Waimea and sunset, but I think I'll learn to turn before hiring a boat in indo.

How was Lleyn?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 13, 2009, 11:08:04 am
I should've put a smiley... Chris - You're more than capable now.

JB - I wouldn't worry about turning when you can casually mention bodysurfing Waimea  8)

Lleyn was blown out and onshore on Friday and Saturday with nothing showing through on the North.  The weather was a bit pants so went bouldering at Hyll Drem, walked on the beach and trained the puppies, slept and read books.  Very relaxing..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2009, 11:53:11 am
Sadly not financially capable. Only boat trip this year will be either to Hebrides or Ireland (did you get my email the other day?).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on May 13, 2009, 08:08:54 pm
good god!  there may even be a swell on the east the weekend - might be at the ska bro saturday
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 14, 2009, 03:11:08 pm
onshore mush I reckon, I'm afraid, might be some gaps in the wind though.

Got me one of these recently:

http://www.lushlongboards.com/lush-balance-board-p-2224.html (http://www.lushlongboards.com/lush-balance-board-p-2224.html)

Great fun, and good for brushing up on dynamic balance skills.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on May 14, 2009, 06:34:01 pm
I have one like that but with a wheel at each corner.

better swell seems to now have switched to the west now.  again will be nasty onshore but im getting desperate.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 15, 2009, 08:32:46 am
again will be nasty onshore but im getting desperate.

I hear ya. Was onshore slop this morning in Aberdeen, but I just can't bring myself to try and surf it, cos I know I will have a bloody miserable time. I know I should, and it would be good for me at least for a paddle about if nothing else, but I just hate trying to surf it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 15, 2009, 10:33:38 am
Aye!  Making plans for this weekend has been a nightmare..  Looked like south coast was gonna fire big style earlier in the week and possible for east, was planning to hit K-bay but it's all switched round yesterday.  Croyde was 4ft clean and lush last night but I was stuck working with 'da yoofs', so missed that one, it was painful looking at the webcams and knowing that is 10mins away.  Very blown out this arvo but I think I know a sheltered spot that'll be firing at low-tide, wind is switching this evening..  Looking good for sheltered spots in the SW for Sunday..  Anywhere offshore in Southerly should be on, gotta find somewhere away from the weekend crowds that are starting to appear though..   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 15, 2009, 11:11:33 am
Was planning a long blast up to far NW tonight, but looks like swell aint gonna last.

But it will happen. Oh yes it will happen.

Also looks like Calmac might be starting sunday sailings from Hebs sometime soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on May 16, 2009, 06:40:52 am
Stuck in the Irish sea for the next three months.... all that water, but not a drop to surf!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2009, 07:23:07 am
BHP?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2009, 09:52:41 am
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/)

Once it is loaded, you can run your cursor accross the screen to get the sequence. Love the boards hanging off the lip, and the shadow figure hidden in the depths of the barrel.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on May 19, 2009, 10:45:05 am
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/james-hollmer-cross-gets-the-scariest-barrel-of-all-time-at-shipsterns-bluff-sequence-of-the-week_15715/photos/1/)

Once it is loaded, you can run your cursor accross the screen to get the sequence. Love the boards hanging off the lip, and the shadow figure hidden in the depths of the barrel.

That's incredible! How many people only just made it over that lip! I count at least two bodyboarders and a surfer somewhere in there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2009, 10:55:51 am
There the paddle marks from someone duck diving just left of him, then a boarder and a sponger. Imagine clawing your way up the face of that monster, or drawing breath and diving as deep as you can possibly go.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 23, 2009, 09:49:49 am
http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/)

Full length vid on Irish surfing on MSW. Really good...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on May 23, 2009, 10:06:55 am
Been checking out MrB's work.
http://www.youtube.com/user/mrbproductions (http://www.youtube.com/user/mrbproductions)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 23, 2009, 05:48:00 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/)

Full length vid on Irish surfing on MSW. Really good...
:o Thats some big waves (e.g. @12mins)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 25, 2009, 08:40:26 am
http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Relentless-Powers-Of-Three-Content/1579/)

Full length vid on Irish surfing on MSW. Really good...

The DVD is free with this month's Carve, some amazing footage, and nicely filmed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 26, 2009, 03:44:46 pm
Have got Mr B's film 'Substance' (DVD) which is also quality featuring waves/surfers from the UK and Eire.  Features epic brown pits somewhere in the North East, a certain break in Exmoor that should be secret but isn't  :'(  , Thurso East going off, Porthleven going off, Brim's Ness ditto etc. etc..  It get's me pysched for surfing in this country!  'There is good waves is this country, I know there is........'
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on June 12, 2009, 02:11:54 pm
Surfing in Liberia (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/in_pictures/8092112.stm)

Don't surf, but doesn't look that great to my untrained eye  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 12, 2009, 02:39:55 pm
Not the most amazing, but not the worst I have seen, ie Aberdeen for the last 2 months.

No surprise there are waves - you only have to look at a map.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 14, 2009, 02:40:34 pm
Just got in from a 4 hour sess at Porth Ceriad and had another lengthy outing yesterday.  Nice waves and was wearing a new Excel 3/2 and no booties... Sweet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 15, 2009, 02:30:09 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/Swell-Call:-Indos-Big-Tuesday-Content/1643/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Swell-Call:-Indos-Big-Tuesday-Content/1643/)

 :jaw:

jesus
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 15, 2009, 02:39:43 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/Jimmys-Point-Surf-Report/630/detailedLongRange/uk/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Jimmys-Point-Surf-Report/630/detailedLongRange/uk/)

shit the bed.

I would be running away and hiding.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 15, 2009, 04:23:38 pm
Another 3 hours in the water today. Sunburned and sore.... Ace
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 15, 2009, 04:29:57 pm
At work til Friday, damn it. I take it you or the waves'll not be still around next week?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 15, 2009, 06:43:12 pm
Another 3 hours in the water today. Sunburned and sore.... Ace

Where the flip are you finding waves?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 15, 2009, 07:32:40 pm
Been swell all weekend in Devon  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 15, 2009, 08:55:25 pm
Another 3 hours in the water today. Sunburned and sore.... Ace

Where the flip are you finding waves?

Ceriad.. been out the last three days on the trot  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 15, 2009, 09:00:36 pm
At work til Friday, damn it. I take it you or the waves'll not be still around next week?

'fraid not. Back in the peak Saturday... will check the forecast and let you know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 15, 2009, 09:19:59 pm
Magic seaweed north wales forecasts are a work of fiction.  checked the westcoastsurf and it looks completely different to the 1.5feet reported.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 16, 2009, 08:16:56 am
Magic seaweed forecasts are a work of fiction

It's based on a model that is often wrong, especially overestimating wind strengths. Worth getting a copy of the book Surf Science, and forecasting for yourself.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: eteve on June 16, 2009, 08:36:25 pm
http://surfcore.co.uk/ (http://surfcore.co.uk/) or check this uses different data. I quite like it. interested to see what others think.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 17, 2009, 06:19:01 am
I think surfcore is only slightly worse than MSW.

and on a par with www.surf-forecast.com (http://www.surf-forecast.com) which will give you forecasts for well know spots like Talisker bay on Skye.

Anyhoo, on a speculative punt we blasted up to Philorth at Fraserburgh last night and were rewarded with a nice small clean swell, even if offshores were a bit harsh. Great logging session, just two of us in and sunny skies. Used my Go-Pro Camera for first time - will post some clips if there are any good ones.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on June 18, 2009, 02:39:23 pm
pulled on the steamer for the first time since late august last year.
bloody desperate to paddle in. i'll have to go some where like indo till the water and weather warms up, or do more climbing....
god knows how and why i put up with the conditions on the yorkshire coast for so long!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 18, 2009, 03:48:32 pm
Water and Weather are just about as warm as it gets?? I didn't need hood on tuesday - scorchio!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2009, 08:42:07 am
This should probably go in non-quality non-climbing video, but thought it would be of more interest here

First time I have used GoPro Camera in water. Results are OK, less said about surfing.

http://www.chrissboggyblog.blogspot.com/ (http://www.chrissboggyblog.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 19, 2009, 04:14:16 pm
Good qualit yon those videos.  a whole 18 seconds of ride.  i might need to get a log.  is that sound you breaking wind into your wetsuit?
Its a weird take off.  doesnt look like theres a wave there at all.  and no foam visible to whole ride.  interesting.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2009, 04:28:00 pm
The sound is a wierd one, not sure if it picks up echoes in the board? There is a lower sound option, might try that next time.

Waves were really small, and with the lightweight log you can catch them at the point of breaking if you paddle fast enough and just ride the swell if you come forward enough on the board.

I am not convinced that the lightweight boards are ideal for UK and especially not Scotland, as they are amazing when it's glassy, but crap if there is anything more than a light breeze as they reverberate from the chop, and are like a sail in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 19, 2009, 04:30:41 pm
PS.  never show me a video of you enjoying powder like that ever again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 19, 2009, 05:08:32 pm
I went to Cornwall at half term.  it was flat, on shore and raining.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/3640840415_dc56bbcde9.jpg?v=1245427207)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3353/3640847627_a2654d684a.jpg?v=1245427122)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3327/3641652738_df1291e496.jpg?v=1245427169)

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2477/3640850647_3231318a95.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3538/3641662544_d672d4a375.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3662/3641665766_31b74e9d2e.jpg?v=0[/img

[img]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3311/3640860059_838a1da85c.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/3640863157_12090104cd.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3635/3640866655_31074fc3de.jpg?v=0)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3614/3640869109_1994065d7d.jpg?v=0)

Noooooooooooot! :thumbsup: :bounce:

Can anyone tell me what all those parallel lines on the sea are?  Weird!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2009, 09:17:31 pm
PS.  never show me a video of you enjoying powder like that ever again.

I haven't finished editing the clips from the day on the snowcats yet.

Some nice looking lines there and some good pics. Haven't seen shit like that on the E Coast for a while. Still September isn't far off.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on June 26, 2009, 10:20:46 pm
after a big layoff (one year!!!) i have finally taken my longboard back home and will try and catch some waves tomorrow and sunday.
i know that when i'll be out there, fighting to get to the peak, with my shoulders burning and my arms destroyed after 12 seconds paddling, i'll be hating that. until i catch a wave...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 27, 2009, 08:17:46 pm
some good waves in the northeast today, just got back from a kayak session in them, photos to follow
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 27, 2009, 08:59:51 pm
warning, horrific quality from a waterproof camera:


(http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs109.snc1/4926_1172305620334_1008824910_541038_567546_n.jpg)

(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs089.snc1/4926_1172305700336_1008824910_541040_5332498_n.jpg)

(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs089.snc1/4926_1172305820339_1008824910_541043_853388_n.jpg)

(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs109.snc1/4926_1172306660360_1008824910_541064_2899255_n.jpg)


and an elegant moment from me

(http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs089.snc1/4926_1172306340352_1008824910_541056_3038526_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 27, 2009, 09:27:17 pm
Just leave ok.  You dont need to say anything, we wont hold it against you, just go and it will never be mentioned again.

Paddler! :wank:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 28, 2009, 03:11:10 am
Hahaha the sin of all sins
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on June 28, 2009, 09:52:06 am
yyfy!!!
i got wet again, and i found out i'm still able to catch and ride a wave!!!
3,5 hours session yesterday, 2-3 feet with the occasional 4 feet "bomb". looooong rides. i've been strangely clever, taking my time and choosing the sets, instead of going for everything and being destroyed after five minutes. i also took the chance to try my friend's takayama 9'3" "in the pink" and that's a nice board blimey.
two people out.
when we paddled in at 8 pm my friend told me "i'm proud of you".
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on June 29, 2009, 02:15:02 pm
where's a great white when you need one.
goatboaters, the haemorrhoids of the ocean.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 29, 2009, 07:58:11 pm
Oh dear Philo, you do seem to have rather put your foot in it!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on June 29, 2009, 08:52:57 pm
Think those boats belong on a river, a Riot Trickster by the looks of it and some other orange bit of something that belongs hanging at the side of the public swimming pool. A proper surf kayak would put them to shame so not worth comparing in any way. Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on June 30, 2009, 03:47:55 am
Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.

i just see them all as potential dangers in the water who have no concept of line up ethics.

ohh yes, i'll just sit a bit further out than the mal riders, they seem to be getting all the waves. i'll just get them before they do!!  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: AndyR on June 30, 2009, 05:54:08 am
Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.

i just see them all as potential dangers in the water who have no concept of line up ethics.

ohh yes, i'll just sit a bit further out than the mal riders, they seem to be getting all the waves. i'll just get them before they do!!  :thumbsdown:
I don't see any surfers in Philo's photos - why all the kneejerk aggro?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 30, 2009, 09:25:42 am
Mine was tongue in cheek (he can check his karma) but i seem to have started something... :oops:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on June 30, 2009, 01:04:55 pm
ohh Andy,
get a life mate,  :wank:
it's all banter.

don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: AndyR on June 30, 2009, 05:46:23 pm
ohh Andy,
get a life mate,  :wank:
it's all banter.

don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....


Oh I see - my mistake - you were being funny - for a moment, I thought it was another tedious outdoor clique....
 :wave:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 01, 2009, 03:11:46 am
Goatboater is really for Waveskis (Gay On A Tray) and would actually be a complement to many kayakers as Waveskis are a fair bit faster.

i just see them all as potential dangers in the water who have no concept of line up ethics.

ohh yes, i'll just sit a bit further out than the mal riders, they seem to be getting all the waves. i'll just get them before they do!!  :thumbsdown:
I don't see any surfers in Philo's photos - why all the kneejerk aggro?

there were surfers about half a mile down the shore but we made sure we were away from the crowd, only us in the water! was a right laugh anyways
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: AndyR on July 02, 2009, 11:23:35 pm
ohh Andy,
get a life mate,  :wank:
it's all banter.

don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....


Oh I see - my mistake - you were being funny - for a moment, I thought it was another tedious outdoor clique....
 :wave:

Have you actually got any investment in the issue Andy? Kayaker/surfer? Or have you just decided to get all libertarian about something for the sake of it? It's obviously all banter. From my limited experience I've seen plenty of cliquey shit going on in the world of surfing, what we're writing here is hardly it.

I am wholly neutral on the matter - I do some sea kayaking and I do a poor imitation of surfing, both of these at highly punterish levels - I've simply never heard this before, so was genuinely surprised to read it, but that's just my ignorance of the cliques in watersports.  Obviously I am painfully aware of the various cliques in climbing as I've been doing it for just over 20 years, so shouldn't be too surprised that they exist elsewhere.  Maybe not having lived in the UK for 8 years has dulled my appreciation of banter.
Have fun.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2009, 06:32:56 am
Don't confuse sea kayaking with goatboating.

Also, anyone seen charts for E coast? (whistles).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 07, 2009, 08:23:09 am
Yep. It's looking good for the East this coming weekend.  I'm in North Wales though partying at Wakestock  :alky:  :pissed:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 08, 2009, 03:20:55 pm
 :o  Philo! The kind of sight that strikes fear into my heart..  Looks like you all had fun, just remember the closest to the peak is the rightful owner of the wave and repeatedly being snaked by goat boaters/kayakers has given you folks a bad rep in the surfing community..  I do occasionally surf with one but I make him walk to the beach 100 yards behind me and he's not aloud to speak to me until we've left the beach.  :P (He rides really well in his plastic tub but knows in his heart that he would rather stand up.)  My new subject for loathing has to be SUPs though...
Quote
don't you know that all surfers on this site only surf heaving barrelling slabs, not the onshore mushy crap dipicted in these images....
  You got me sussed  8)

Swell alert - for the North East...I am feeling a weekend trip coming on to catch the last of it Friday and Saturday then nip down to support my mate who should be in the final of the BBCs oN Sunday(assuming he doesn't get injured again).  Question is where should i go? I have a penchant for heaving barrelling slabs, being a goof I like me lefts and i am seriouly not adverse to surfing over the hard stuff, slack beach breaks are not my thing, normally surf Croyde at low-tide and various reefs/points around North Devon.    A little local knowledge would be appreaciated...  I'm not suggesting giving up all your secrets but would love to know of any waves that would be on this weekend? 


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 08, 2009, 03:59:53 pm
Cheers for the PM FD :thumbsup:  I knew about that place beginning with S..... but the other spots you've mentioned sound like they're worth checking out, expect S.... will get busy at the weekend anyways..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 08, 2009, 04:51:21 pm
Yeah! Who'd have thought it surf in Sssssssss   .......... Scarborough..  and Whitby Bay  Thanks a bunch FD... :P
If I needed that kind of knowledge I'd have looked at Magicseaweed or my Surf UK guide...which I just did.. These aren't secrets they're normal slack beachies, exactly NOT what I'm looking for :furious: 
Suppose you think you're  funny:lol:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 08, 2009, 11:03:32 pm
some 6ft barrels today off the coast of sunderland. lots and lots of surfers in the water too, most ive seen
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 09, 2009, 10:00:14 am
Sadly we are too close to the low and it's windy as fuck here still. Horrible mess in Aberdeen this am, spent an hour chasing peaks. Hopefully wind will drop off a bit tonight / tomorrow / Saturday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 09, 2009, 03:51:35 pm
Yep... Good swell hitting the NE at the mo but looks like it's gonna fade by the time we get up there not worth the mission...  However.....  SW is in for some swell this weekend, heading down for a Kernow raid instead..  Just gotta find those sheltered spots..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 09, 2009, 10:48:42 pm
Yeah! Who'd have thought it surf in Sssssssss   .......... Scarborough..  and Whitby Bay  Thanks a bunch FD... :P
If I needed that kind of knowledge I'd have looked at Magicseaweed or my Surf UK guide...which I just did.. These aren't secrets they're normal slack beachies, exactly NOT what I'm looking for :furious: 
Suppose you think you're  funny:lol:


well done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.


 :wave:

what happened to initative, grab some fuel and a map and find your waves. the north east isn't like the the west coast of OZ...........
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 10, 2009, 01:57:08 am
 :o 8-9 foot sets today absolute monsters in comparison to normal, get your arses north eastwards!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 10, 2009, 08:28:21 am
Oldfella is going to love you.

Still blown out shit for Aberdeen, although apparently Nigg cleaned up late last night, and produced a wave or two big enough for a mate to get his shoulder dislocated.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 11, 2009, 10:03:20 am
:o 8-9 foot sets today absolute monsters in comparison to normal, get your arses north eastwards!

yes get in that fucking plastic kazoo is paddle to Norway...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 12, 2009, 10:41:39 pm
Edited some surf clips with the Go Pro Camera together. Feel free to take the piss, but I am quite pleased with the results.


"http://vimeo.com/5559882"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 13, 2009, 12:19:21 am
Philo, i don't care whether you're a 'surfer as well', good for you.
what i find annoying is that you  are telling people to look at areas where perhaps they wouldn't.

why is it that people need to be told where to surf nowdays????
if people like you want to tell people where the waves are, before you know it, all surf spots will be like the frantic self centred breaks in the south west and south wales.


give people who have the iniatitive & patience in learning to read charts, the reward of enjoying their efforts.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 13, 2009, 02:00:09 am
i was merely adding upon other comments from people looking it up and giving feedback,
oh and its hardly an unknown spot never mind the vagueness of my general area of north-eastwards comment. theres more than just one person in the world
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 13, 2009, 04:02:06 pm
Quote
frantic self centred breaks in the south west and south wales
::)
I love the idea of a break being self centred...... 'I am Croyde, I am the finest beach break in all the land, my peaks are so shapely, my barrels so open, I am the greatest, how dare you question my superiority!'
Fact is there are quiet waves to be had in South Wales and the South West.
You just need to look at a map, get off the beaten track, check the charts and work it out for yourself OF :P  But i'm not gonna tell you where they are.  I smite thee back!
Quote
give people who have the iniatitive & patience in learning to read charts, the reward of enjoying their efforts.


Here's a different take.......  share knowledge and information with people you know trust and respect, call people into waves and smile when you go surf, accept that folks surf on all kinds of crafts including kayaks/goat boats and some are bluddy good at it, accept that everyone has to start somewhere and that you were once the kook that you now ridicule, generosity towards someone coming to your local area will be rewarded with generosity when you visit their yard, whoop at people who get good waves, somewhere down the line surfing lost it's 'mojo' with some people, for them it's time to find the stoke again, bring back the love.  :kiss2:

Or we could turn this thread into a competition to see who is the most 'core' surfer and continue in this negative vein.

Went to Cornwall this weekend with a friend and met up with some guys we met up here looking for shelter during big swells a couple of years ago.  We surfed a right hand point in a cove that they introduced us to, just the 4 of us in, need I say more. 8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 14, 2009, 01:43:11 pm
being a hard core shredder,
i'm gonna share the love.
check out the J Bay comp, it's off its tits.
http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay09/live.php (http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay09/live.php)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on July 17, 2009, 07:42:24 am
As a relative newcomer to surfing I have to admit that I really don't get localism. The only sensible reason I can think of for it is that spots only work at certain times and under certain conditions and that good waves at these places are therefore limited. Kinda like people crowding to try Brad Pitt on a freezing day in the winter. To claim you have some greater right to surf a beach than anyone else, to me, seems ludicrous.

Have heard some say that because they chose to live near their favourite break they have more right to surf there. Well, I chose to live 10mins drive from Stanage, as do millions of others, and I'm pretty sure if I tried to have  go at some Londoner for being their I'd quite rightly be told where to go.

As for respect. Of course. But I think respect cuts two ways. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2009, 08:33:46 am
I can kind of see where it comes from. Guys who lie near a cetain break and surf it day in and day out could get understandably annoyed when it becomes overrun on good days and there is an invasion from far and wide. However, I think it all originates from the counter culture days of surfing in the 60s and 70s when surfing was originally perceived as an outsiders sport, but was then invaded by the mainstream. I think a lot of localism in the UK is from people who like to try and portray the image of being the "hard" local hotshot and fanning their egos.

One way or another it really sucks and I find the whole thing a bit of an embarrassment to the sport.

Have you sorted out your board dilemma gruff?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 17, 2009, 11:08:33 am
OK let's try and put a few things to bed.

There is localism in surfing.  "You can't surf here, get the f*ck out of the water, go home". BAD, fact, period.  No one likes that stuff, there's no room for it in the sport or the culture.  We see very little of it in the UK thankfully and on the rare occaisions it does happen it's usually just ego stroking and can just be ignored.

Then there's fustration in the water or behaviour that's frowned upon that isn't as obvious.  This does need acknowledging and exploring a little because what sometimes gets interpreted as 'localism' is actually a genuine and legitimate reaction to an infraction of some of the unwritten and not-so-obvious rules of surfing.  As illustration....

Getting in the way - Paddling out to a peak and sitting on the inside in front of the take off or further down the line.  This happens to everyone of course but there are repeat offenders.

Pulling out of a takeoff on a wave that's well makeable - A relative beginner paddles for a wave who's got priority and just doesn't go, usually happens on slightly bigger days when commitment is needed.  If you are paddling, go for it and don't pull back as soon as it looks scary.

Paddling to the peak out of turn - Another common mistake, especially made by the newly competent surfer who's mastered the art of catching most waves and turning.  Catch a wave, ride it well, all flushed with excitement and paddle enthusiastically straight out to the peak for the next one. Whoops.  Should've have sat on the inside a while and let the others in the pack take their waves.  Climbers who have turned to surfing are notorious for this behaviour I think because of an ingrained tick mentality.  We have a bad rep in North Wales because of this...

These are all the equivalent of not cleaning boots, big tick marks, trying stuff that's way too hard, top roping hard sport routes on a tight rope and saying 'I did all the moves on x', dabs, standing on the matts close to the wall, using feet on a campus board.  All the stuff we laugh about on here and sometimes turn away sn**gering about at the crag.  That we then read about on the web when 'punters' talk about their visit to Malham, The Tor or the Plantation and say 'there were some locals who weren't very friendly'.

I've just re-read some of what I wrote and I probably sound like a right twat but I've sat in the water in North Wales, Yorkshire, Scotland, Indo, Spain and the Canaries with climbers turned surfers who have managed to rub people up without realising - me included when I first started out. 

 :)




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 17, 2009, 11:27:57 am
Oh and Oldfella is actually very nice... he's just a wind up merchant.

And in spite of what I wrote above, I'm very friendly and supportive in the water and out (I think)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 17, 2009, 11:45:06 am
Quote
Was down your favourite bouldering spot a month or two ago (it was actually working this time!) and met one of the friendliest locals I've ever come across. More or less bullied us into the water with his enthusiasm and was whoopin at all and sundry. A bit of an uplift after some of the neoprene clad stoneface warriors at Croyde.
This could only be one person ... and he is normally very high spirited as you met him...  However, once upon a time he was having a bad time of it in his personal life and getting repeatedly snaked on the rights.. Let's just say the otherside of his personality came out, quite a shock for us all but looks like normal service has resumed.  Glad to hear it.
As for Croyde, it is and probably will always be a VERY 'competative' break, on good days there will be a sense of aggression in the air.  Frowning faces and people paddling around you to get into position on a wave are common place.  It can be like surfing in a competition without the judges on the beach!  For the timid or inexperienced this is not a good place to surf, particularly around low-tide.  I cut my teeth at Croyde and made all the mistakes you could possibly make to upset the locals. From fading (pulling out of wave I had priority for), to dropping in, to being in the way on the inside.  Words were had, I felt daft and nervous.  But as FD says this shouldn't be mistaken for localism.  Generally, if you get shouted at in Croyde you have probably made a boo boo.  I've never seen anyone called out the water for being a non-local.  However, if you're a regular face at the beach and the other regulars know you are competent, friendlyness and respect will begin to come your way.  Which is probably the case at many a beach in the UK.  A smile and a hello goes a long way, whether it be at a surf break or a crag.  Have to agree that anyone stating a claim to a particular break because they surf there a lot or live near it is absolutely ludicrous and the domain of a small minority of numb cowardly minds.
I'm sure Oldfella's all fluffy and cuddles in reality.  Now get off MY peak!  :furious:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2009, 12:25:34 pm
As an aside, this guy is fucking hilarious and should have a column in one of the mags. Some great writing.

http://asl-insidethegoldmine.blogspot.com/ (http://asl-insidethegoldmine.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on July 17, 2009, 12:45:25 pm
Yeah! Who'd have thought it surf in Sssssssss   .......... Scarborough..  and Whitby Bay  Thanks a bunch FD... :P
If I needed that kind of knowledge I'd have looked at Magicseaweed or my Surf UK guide...which I just did.. These aren't secrets they're normal slack beachies, exactly NOT what I'm looking for :furious: 
Suppose you think you're  funny:lol:


well done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.


 :wave:

what happened to initative, grab some fuel and a map and find your waves. the north east isn't like the the west coast of OZ...........
Philo, i don't care whether you're a 'surfer as well', good for you.
what i find annoying is that you  are telling people to look at areas where perhaps they wouldn't.

why is it that people need to be told where to surf nowdays????
if people like you want to tell people where the waves are, before you know it, all surf spots will be like the frantic self centred breaks in the south west and south wales.


give people who have the iniatitive & patience in learning to read charts, the reward of enjoying their efforts.



Oldfella you're being a bit daft - this island of ours that we all live on is so pissy little that a quick look at a surf guide and a chart can get you to most parts (bar the far north) for a weekend or long weekend (and even there if you a psycho).  Philo was hardly letting the cat out of the bag there....charts show a fuck off big swell coming from the north east followed by a suggestion to surf on the north east.  Not rocket science....and people who live away from the coast are bound to travel to breaks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 17, 2009, 12:52:56 pm
As a relative newcomer to surfing I have to admit that I really don't get localism. The only sensible reason I can think of for it is that spots only work at certain times and under certain conditions and that good waves at these places are therefore limited. Kinda like people crowding to try Brad Pitt on a freezing day in the winter. To claim you have some greater right to surf a beach than anyone else, to me, seems ludicrous.

you kind of the the nail on the head there Baron,
the way i can explain it is;
Imagine  you had been training like  madman and waiting for perfect conditions to try and red point a project at Malham.
then after after 3 weeks of rain and endless endless training, a perfect cool dry couple of days come. you get in your car, do your warm up routes then head over to your line, only to see a whole heap of people abseiling down the wall with their big grubby boots!! And they are set to do it all day.

now for some spots, especially in the UK, they are very very fickle and only work once in a while.
Imagine if that wave was really challenging for you  or just the only decent wave nearby and those magic conditions arrived. When you get to the break, it is full of surfers from 'out of town'. you paddle out, can't get a wave for the crowd.
you're going to be mighty diasspointed...

that is why people are passionate about keeping breaks secret.
i'm no surf nazi or some heavy handed local, but i wish people would stop hand feeding information to those who can't be bothered to learn and seek the breaks themselves.
waves are a limited source, and they are not all the same. you may only get 3 decent waves per hour, now if you add a heap of people out, it reduces the odds of surfing even more.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 17, 2009, 02:22:44 pm
Quote
well done Falling Down, there's too many tourists popping up to the North east to surf those places he seeks.

CLM.........The Granticus ain't no tourist  8)

For the record FD didn't spill the beans on anything that isn't in a UK surf guidebook and good on him for not doing so..  A lot of the breaks in the NE are mentioned in the guides, add to this various features in various surfing magazines and the fact that I know a lot of people who surf and who have surfed all over this fair isle..... I have a pretty good idea of where to go to find the delectable left hand barrelling slab or point or beachie in whatever part of the country I'm in.  Quick look at a swell chart, a chat with some friends and hey presto I've found a wave!  As it goes I went West because the charts were looking better that way last weekend and scored some good waves.

I reckon that if you're are maintaining the attitude that folks shouldn't travel and surf 'your' favourite spots that you should immediately give up the idea of surfing anywhere else.  A bit like the idea that ...if you join the BNP, you should immediately destroy your passport. :)

Now if I were to come to the NE to surf the places I seek, I can promise, with confidence in my abiliity, that .. I will show the appropriate level of regard and respect, I won't come with a crowd, I will be catching waves, I won't be snaking and I won't be dropping in.  I would also argue that those with the ability will manage to catch waves regardless of the crowd factor by taking off deeper, being fitter, being faster and getting instant respect for shredding up the first wave they catch.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 17, 2009, 02:37:18 pm

I reckon that if you're are maintaining the attitude that folks shouldn't travel and surf 'your' favourite spots that you should immediately give up the idea of surfing anywhere else.  A bit like the idea that ...if you join the BNP, you should immediately destroy your passport. :)



i am not taking that attitude,
The big rush and joy of surfing is the travel and surfing new waves.
It is just the manner in which you go about it is what I wanted to highlight.

what started off as a bit of tongue in cheek stuff has soon escalated into  :furious:



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 17, 2009, 02:56:27 pm
You started it  ;D  :kiss2:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 18, 2009, 12:08:42 pm
FD I'm just getting shirty because you puntered me and I was almost at a perfect 10  :ang:

FD someone did say you're a wind up merchant, how do you plead?


Anyhoooo..........I'm off to Kernow for a week, charts aren't looking to promising at the mo mind...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 18, 2009, 12:21:05 pm
I don't think I puntered anyone did I?   :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on July 18, 2009, 11:08:31 pm
I don't think I puntered anyone did I?   :shrug:

No it was the aussie what done it. granticus just seems to have 'FD' 'pon him mind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2009, 10:27:42 am
Cool, looks the biz.

Just had mellow logging session before work. Mostly weak windswell, but was offshore for a while and worked on an OK sandbar for a bit before it dropped off and wind changed. Weather too nice to stress too much about wave quality though; gorgeous morning after torrential rain last night. And not much chance of any localism, being the only person in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2009, 03:06:36 pm
http://www.thisiswesternmorningnews.co.uk/news/MINISTRY-SAYS-SURF-BOARDS-SHIPS/article-1184410-detail/article.html (http://www.thisiswesternmorningnews.co.uk/news/MINISTRY-SAYS-SURF-BOARDS-SHIPS/article-1184410-detail/article.html)

Plain daft.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on July 22, 2009, 06:22:18 pm
Jet skis yes, windsurfers - possibly.  anyhthing man powered - cant be - where would you stop?  Armbands?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2009, 07:37:29 pm
Bodyboards? Kiteboards?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 22, 2009, 09:25:58 pm
swimming?  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2009, 08:13:37 am
only if you have armbands on, or a swimming tube.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on July 28, 2009, 08:24:18 am
Surfwise (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0479547/) doc repeated tonight on More4 at 10pm. Well worth a watch/record if you haven't seen it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 28, 2009, 09:21:21 am
The Doc doc. Missed it last time, will catch tonight. Cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 28, 2009, 05:47:50 pm
Quote
I don't think I puntered anyone did I?
FD I didn't punter you, my mind was in a muddle....  Twas the Aussie wind up merchant I was referring to...

Back thoroughly chilled from a lurvely week in rainy and surfless Kernow, returned to ND Sunday arvo to coincide with some pumping swell, which looks set to stick with us for a while at least.  Who knows it might quit raining sometime soon as well... :)

Quote
Surfwise doc repeated tonight on More4 at 10pm. Well worth a watch/record if you haven't seen it.
Was Doc Paskowitz the guy that was taking surfboards over the border into Palestine from Isreal to give to the young people there?  Seem to remember reading about it somewhere (Surfer's Path?), was pretty cool gesture/action anyway because there was no way these kids were ever gonna get their hands on a board anyother way and they were stoked to use them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on July 30, 2009, 06:19:32 pm
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)

WOW  :bow:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 30, 2009, 06:22:04 pm
Bit off topic, but am going to put my board on ebay. Was after a rough price off what its worth.
6'11 Spider Murphy thruster, very good nick. I have lost touch with surf board prices now!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on July 30, 2009, 06:49:39 pm
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)

WOW  :bow:

Those rips are terrifying - at least they dont go too far out.

Adam...50?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 30, 2009, 07:37:35 pm
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)

WOW  :bow:

Great Wedge pics....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 30, 2009, 07:45:43 pm
Reminds me of a great little story after surfing Huntington Pier and Newport a few years ago. I got out of the water as it got dark all psyched having surfed the Pier, the iconic South Californian break after years of seeing photo's in the mags and was changing by the car when my phone beeped.  It was a text from Gav Ellis who'd just surfed Hossegor for the first time, at 5:30am the following morning with the time difference and he didn't know I was in California.  So I texted him back saying 'Cool... I've just got out of the water too at Huntington Pier, California...". Felt great swapping stories from the across the ocean.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 30, 2009, 09:16:07 pm
Quote
Adam...50?

Really, wow!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 30, 2009, 11:25:40 pm
to be honest Adam, selling boards isn't worth the hassle unless you really line up a sucker who hasn't got a clue about prices.

or if you are absolutely desperate and will take anything.

hang on to them, because one day you'll look back and wonder how you ever rode those things back then  :-\

i have a few boards from the early 80's. the term Barge springs to mind.

good luck, every day there is a sucker born
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 31, 2009, 08:45:04 am
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/)

The period on those waves is amazing. If you like the overhead camera shots, check out the young guns DVDs.

Fultonius, you showing an interest in your injured state? Got a spare board.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 05, 2009, 04:08:38 pm
Quote
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surf-from-above_29065/1/

WOW 
Indeed!  Boomer of a swell... Amazing shots...  Particularly the dolphin enjoying the surf.

The Wedge just looks evil..  Unfortunately a bodyboarder died after hitting the rocks here on this day. :'(

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on August 06, 2009, 01:49:03 pm
We all know and love the DFBWGC thread, well here is a DFBWGS

(http://alanablanchard.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/image4.jpg)

Just google pictures of Alana Blanchard, outrageous, and on the world tour. Respect...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 06, 2009, 02:02:34 pm
The world of surfing has an unending supply of DFB's... one should refrain from posting too many for fear of washing away our own climbing thread in a deluge of bikini clad uber-fanny.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on August 12, 2009, 08:38:30 pm
lookin for some surfin beta here guys..

I'm gonna be on the coast at or near to scarbrough from this weekend for a week.. I've got 2 lads and a wife damn keen to try to surf... I'll be googling it all of course to get some info / book em a few lessons etc..

I'd be grateful for any locations / surf schools / beaches or general advice.

I've heard that there may be a suitable venue just north up the coast???

cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 12, 2009, 09:16:26 pm
Cayton Bay just south of Scarborough has board hire, showers and a cafe all above the beach so there's no messing around driving with boards on the roof.  That should see you right
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 13, 2009, 08:18:31 am
Currently looks like earlier in week will be better than later, so don't put it off. Never pass up the opportunity for water time!

Theres a low currently forecast to pass over on the weekend, then hanging about a bit, but forecasts seem to differ on how long.

http://magicseaweed.com/Scarborough-Surf-Report/22/detailedLongRange/uk/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Scarborough-Surf-Report/22/detailedLongRange/uk/) Has links on right of page.

We will hopefully be surfing the same swell.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on August 13, 2009, 09:00:36 am
cheers guys, I'll get cracking!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 13, 2009, 09:03:49 am
http://www.scarboroughsurfschool.co.uk/ (http://www.scarboroughsurfschool.co.uk/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 24, 2009, 10:16:15 am
Any joy with the surf fatdoc?

Had a good session thursday evening, noce southerly swell, and weather ran the full range from torrential rain, wind, bright sunshine, and finished up with double rainbow. Brazilian mate was in water (thanks to FD's spare wettie), first time surfing in N Hemishere and first time in a wetsuit. He was made up, first tiemin water for 4 months. Also had a bit of a southerly windswell this morning, got in for an hour and a bit before work. Shifty peaks and erattic swell, but managed half a dozen good rides. Roll on autumn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 26, 2009, 07:16:07 pm
Cooking!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 05, 2009, 10:39:37 am
Surfed Puttsburough.... tidy barrels at 3ft... clean! moving to Croyde!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 09, 2009, 11:48:00 pm
Idol moving to Croyde.... Share the wealth!  It's one seriously expensive village.

So how much did they fleece you for in the Putts car park for those cheeky little barrels, apparently they broke the 7 barrier this summer which is probably tollerable if your on your hols and are staying the whole day but if you're getting an hour or 2 in before works it sucks.. :thumbsdown:

Had a 'dawnie' down there today with just two of us in, absolutely splendid after a typical summer of crowded mayhem.  Stoked! Roll on winter!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 10, 2009, 02:24:12 pm
Idol moving to Croyde.... Share the wealth! 

The irony!

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=2410 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=2410)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 11, 2009, 07:07:40 pm
New JOB! (ironic II).... leads me out of Kernow, got mates around there.... winter lets are cheaper!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 14, 2009, 09:04:32 am
Quote
New JOB! (ironic II).... leads me out of Kernow, got mates around there.... winter lets are cheaper

Ah! Winter lets!  If you are prepared to live away from 'the bubble' (Croyde), it'll be cheaper still... 

See you out there, if there is ever any surf :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: PatKingDebtCollection on September 14, 2009, 04:22:21 pm
winter lets are cheaper!!!

I can see what's going to happen...

Landlord "where's the rent for the last 2 months?"

Idle "tell you what, I'll give you a load of this expensive gear that I umm.. get from my... er sponsor. It's worth 3 times what I owe you."

Landlord "I'd rather have the cash"

Idle "No, you misunderstand. I need that gear for my photo shoots. I'm merely offering to let you use it until I.. um.. buy it back off you. I'll be paying you what I owe you in cash and you get to use the stuff as like a deposit"

Landlord "well..."

Idle "look at this jacket, and these, and this, and this..."

Landlord "it is all very nice..."

Idle "you take it all if you like it"

Landlord "all of it! Really? Nice"

Idle "that's settled then"

Landlord "yeah"

Idle "its just that... well that stuff is worth far more than what I owe you so far.."

Landlord "yes, clearly"

Idle "well how about I definitely buy it back on the the 20th of next month and you let me have the cash for next months rent now, just to make it all fair"

Landlord "? ? ? ? ?"

Idle "you can have these pills and a bag of this to help you decide"

Landlord "wibble blurt.. yeah man, cool. What do I owe you?"

Next month...

Barmaid "alright there Landlord? You look smart in that jacket"

Landlord "cheers!"

Dude at bar "hey that looks just like the jacket and pants I loaned to the chap who is renting your cottage. I've been looking all over for him!"

All "Idle!!!!"

*queue Benny Hill music*
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: PatKingDebtCollection on September 14, 2009, 04:23:41 pm
This Croyde place. It's pretty small right?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2009, 07:27:34 pm
Ha Ha, Yeah! Quaint I would say... and suits the Benny Hill music, you should come down... and get lost!!!
You missed out the bit where the LANDLADY!!! tries to get it on with me behind the back of her builder boyfriend ( of are you the one who was seeing the mind doctors!!!) and gets rejected...
Women!!!! the start and end off all lifes problems.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 15, 2009, 07:59:28 pm
Has anyone heard of Miki Dora!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 15, 2009, 08:09:00 pm
Errr yes. Why do you ask?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2009, 08:01:31 am
Has any surfer not heard of Miki Dora?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 16, 2009, 09:38:14 am
OK... has any one read All for a few perfect waves?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2009, 09:49:53 am
Yes, it's OK, mildly interesting but not very well put together, and a bit over long.

Want to see the new Bustin' down the Door film but not showing locally.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 18, 2009, 04:30:46 pm
In search of Micheal Petersen!!!! Well worth the view!
Scored Llandegeth (Gower).... Really good!
Miki Dora... Totall Scammer... The people that I have met that know him admit,,, He was not even really that good a surfer, just one in a million character!
The above effort at character assassination reminded me of some of the stuff he did!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2009, 12:48:33 pm
Is October the new September?? Might just be.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 30, 2009, 05:48:41 pm
I've always had the best waves throughout the UK in October.

Grim news from Sumatra today.. the epicenter would be right near the Mentawis and we have friends in Padang from our trips out there  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2009, 10:30:33 pm
September is usually good, but this one has been poor.

Heard from a friend that someone local here is over there too, not your mates from here FD?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 01, 2009, 11:19:28 am
Is October the new September?
Yeah it's been a pretty poor September and unfortunately it's not looking like it'll be a great winter season this year.  Despite all early season excitement about hurricane swells, forecasters are predicting a less active hurricane season this year which as we all know means that the weather systems that give us swell aren't gonna be as regular.  Suffice to say that we WILL (he said in hope) get some good surf it's just not gone be week after week of pumping swells.  Had a lovely but short lived swell in the SW last week shoulder high and clean for 2 days then gone...  Still lack of swell, warm water and warm weather is creating ideal DWS conditions. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2009, 11:26:15 am
Glad it's warm where you are, was baltic suiting up this morning, bitter NW wind blowing. Was OK when sun appeared, got a couple of good waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 01, 2009, 06:20:37 pm
September is usually good, but this one has been poor.

Heard from a friend that someone local here is over there too, not your mates from here FD?

No not Paul and Sarah.. I was thinking of the crew, guides and their families who live in Padang and out on the islands.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2009, 08:36:09 pm
Ah Ok, yes tragedy regardless. Saw Paul and Sarah this evening, actually had a great longboard session, with thruster fin setup on longboard. May not be traditional, but in small swell you can get a great glide on. Sadly dark before arms gave out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 04, 2009, 02:13:29 pm
I NEED A FUCKIN WAVE!!!! (yesterday was ok!!!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2009, 08:33:13 pm
5 sessions in 4 days, head east!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2009, 11:11:03 am
And another one this morning, but I sucked as arms were in tatters.

Couple of pics from yesterday morning, not the best in the world, but probably the only ones I have of me surfing. Like the trawler in the background, gives a bit of context.

(http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab54/rowiebee/chris%20pics/DNW_4077.jpg?t=1254736815)

(http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab54/rowiebee/chris%20pics/DNW_4079.jpg?t=1254737421)

Not quite Indo boat trip with rock star, but pretty good for east coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 05, 2009, 12:09:37 pm
Nice, looks chilly!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2009, 01:01:06 pm
Cold westerly blowing, and 9 am. Got in at about 4 again, no hood needed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 05, 2009, 04:17:11 pm
Surfer wins big wave contest (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/7347976.stm#id7340000/7347900/7347976)
Nice exit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 05, 2009, 11:12:28 pm
That was sooooo close to being really nasty.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 05, 2009, 11:13:50 pm
Great pics Chris.. it's so hard to get photo's when surfing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2009, 08:20:21 am
Yeah, have very few of me. Dave Smith did a great job seeing it was his first go at it, and light is always tricky on East Coast in the morning, esp. as they were mostly rights.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 06, 2009, 10:30:35 pm
TSJ | POV - "Richard Kenvin behind the polyester curtain" (http://vimeo.com/5424668)

Bob Simmons taught Chouinard how to surf... cut down the first plank into a shortboard to get out of the pocket and 'make clean lines on the wave' which inspired Chouinard to ditch the peg hammer and start clean aiding in The Valley...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 12, 2009, 12:07:23 pm
Boom! managed to score N Cornwall... Scarborough... and Llangeneth all in the last four daze!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on October 12, 2009, 12:45:54 pm
that dorian ride is sic.
fighting the foam ball of that size and forced to lay bac instead of the standard pig dog.  so much going on for him to deal with. much more than the typical tow in ride down a mountain with a few 'chop hops' laong the way.

technically, it is absolutley mindblowing, when you add that to the context of the wave, the live coral slab half a metre below.  one of the best waves i have ever seen ridden.

i saw Falling Down do this on a wave one day on the east coast, well the last 3 secs of the video..
always a good laugh when its one of your mates betting drilled...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 12, 2009, 07:55:30 pm
technically, it is absolutley mindblowing, when you add that to the context of the wave, the live coral slab half a metre below.  one of the best waves i have ever seen ridden.

 :agree:  it's mindblowing....

Thanks for the comparison to Dorian..  :lol: the difference was that he had finished riding an incredible wave and I just blew the takeoff on an average one.  Was that on that really nasty cold day at sheepbaah with Gav and Jerry a couple of years ago? When we went to Cayton later and had to scale the sea wall at Cayton to escape the tide... top day that was. I think there's a post about it earlier in the thread.

Just got a brand new Excel 5/4/3 hooded drylock for the winter waiting to pick it up from Abersoch when I get back from Kazakhstan.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2009, 09:06:35 pm
i've got an O zip 5/4/3 that is soo warm. Wear it with one of the XCEL polypro hooded rashies in winter. Really toasty, but the zip gets stuck up a bit -have to ask passerby to lend a hand.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on October 12, 2009, 09:42:03 pm
i'm looking at buying a new pair of board shorts, just to stay cool in the water  :whistle:

FD,
yes it was that day. i can also remember another one, but details are too vague. i think it was one one of the points where you have to contiully paddle up the point. you too some photos that day

have a safe trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 14, 2009, 10:17:04 pm
Gower again.... Great!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2009, 08:23:20 am
Llangenith? The mother of all paddle outs!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 18, 2009, 01:52:55 pm
Got my first taste of aggro in the water yesterday from some rather serious south bay 'Locals'. They were very good surfers but snaked everything and were quite happily mowing people down. Apparently that's ok because they live there. After I politely remonstrated with them much hilarity ensued, and once I got over my disbelief that grown men could actually gang up and behave like playground bullies it was quite funny. They didn't like it when I just laughed back at them. If you ever fancy a days cragging lads just let me know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 18, 2009, 04:22:31 pm
 :bounce:  ooo  oooo  ooooh...  swell charts are looking insane for all Atlantic facing coasts this Wednesday, super long period, sizeable and with offshores predicted...  Lined up a pre-work early morning at a special little left hand reef break that the tides and swell are perfect for.  Hope peeps score some epic sessions..

Probably not the greatest prep for a week in Font but tis an opportunity not to be missed..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 18, 2009, 06:35:22 pm
Got my first taste of aggro in the water yesterday from some rather serious south bay 'Locals'. They were very good surfers but snaked everything and were quite happily mowing people down. Apparently that's ok because they live there. After I politely remonstrated with them much hilarity ensued, and once I got over my disbelief that grown men could actually gang up and behave like playground bullies it was quite funny. They didn't like it when I just laughed back at them.

See my very first post of this thread. You get dicks everywhere.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2009, 09:35:28 am
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 22, 2009, 03:09:31 pm
Chris...    :great:

Big, mean and clean on Atlantic coasts yesterday.  Sheltered spots fired up too, but not all-time. Seemed like every man and his dog was onto it on Wednesday mind...

  Swell set to continue into next week but with a lot of W in the wind over weekend, then lots of S in the wind early next week.  So should be good for sheltered spots again.

Had a fun session early this morning, clean and not so big n mean.  Off to Font for a week tomor, so don't give a munkees! ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 24, 2009, 03:32:09 pm
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?
better than the shithole you surf in!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2009, 04:08:56 pm
Forecast was looking good, so I asked how it was?

Agree Aberdeen is shit compared to the SW, but give me deserted Banff, Philorth or Sandend over the busier breaks of the SW any day.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 26, 2009, 10:22:22 am
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?
better than the shithole you surf in!

Uncalled for.... :spank:

I'd like to see out at Nigg when it's six foot in February.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 26, 2009, 10:24:05 am
Really good footage of Gerlach showing balls in the Ments..

Gerlach killing Kandui (http://magicseaweed.com/Gerr-at-Epic-Kandui-Content/1966/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 26, 2009, 12:43:53 pm
Sorry, just thought I was telling the truth... and not an Idle Lie....
(Twas a jest by the way... SA!)
Cheap flights to Marrocco! 20 quid each way... Booked!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 26, 2009, 03:51:59 pm
Granticus and Idle Lies, how's the SW?
better than the shithole you surf in!

Uncalled for.... :spank:
Was it?

I'd like to see out at Nigg when it's six foot in February.
Me Too!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 26, 2009, 04:38:52 pm
Really good footage of Gerlach showing balls in the Ments..

Gerlach killing Kandui (http://magicseaweed.com/Gerr-at-Epic-Kandui-Content/1966/)

Doesn't even look like he's trying.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2009, 08:10:31 am
"The Shithole" on Sunday afternoon, when it had dropped from morning.

(http://www.darryljames.plus.com/Surfing_Images/BT1.jpg)

(http://www.darryljames.plus.com/Surfing_Images/BT4.jpg)

Pics of my mate Darryl taken by Sarah Dixon (Jerry's snapper!).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 27, 2009, 09:35:58 am
Nice piccies...

Off to Abersoch for the next two weekends if anyone is around the Lleyn.   Plenty of waves forecast for this coming weekend..  should be reet good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 27, 2009, 10:22:22 am
Parents have let the house til easter  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 27, 2009, 04:26:48 pm
Off down to Devon and Cornwall tonight till Sunday to re-light my surfing. Not been out since Australia, so expecting to get a pounding! Looking like some good swell for all of it and some nice weather.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 28, 2009, 09:49:30 am
Mundaka turns on the juice  (http://www.surfline.com/video/featured-clips/mundaka-on-fire-oct-21-09_31583) with lots of impressive barrel riding...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2009, 12:05:28 pm
Fistral at four foot fired this morning!!!! perfect.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 29, 2009, 07:16:48 pm
Just had north devon last few days at 3 to 4. Off to fistral in the morning.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2009, 07:27:12 pm
you around at the weekend A.L.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 29, 2009, 08:19:12 pm
Yep, till sunday. We are touring around though. Prob hit up a few quiet spots with a friend who lives there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on October 29, 2009, 08:29:45 pm
Cheap flights to Marrocco! 20 quid each way... Booked!
take a pair of shoes , chalk and a bouldering pad.
there are some amazing caves on the right side of the road opposite the Draculas reef. just before boilers. you can't miss them.
i did a few problems there. but didn't have the 'proper grips and rock boots".

there is potential for some great looking routes as well. take a drill.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2009, 11:32:57 pm
Yep, till sunday. We are touring around though. Prob hit up a few quiet spots with a friend who lives there.
Cool, Tag On... Party week end central. meet at on the rocks bar around nine friday ! doss at mine but poss no sleep!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2009, 11:40:56 pm
Cheap flights to Marrocco! 20 quid each way... Booked!
take a pair of shoes , chalk and a bouldering pad.
there are some amazing caves on the right side of the road opposite the Draculas reef. just before boilers. you can't miss them.
i did a few problems there. but didn't have the 'proper grips and rock boots".

there is potential for some great looking routes as well. take a drill.
Got a feeling its going to be well Benidorm, The whole of Costa del Quay is going, My birthday party is 1st of the 12th, Ag a dir dir dir shake my mind up make a tree, Ag a dir dir dir ,doa do da memory... or something!
OK... Boots only, Lakes crew will like this!
Werte is Draculars?
Esouannes is the tip if we need not the gun vibe at Anchors? got any other suggestions!!!
Taking a 9.o   A 9.4   and a 9.6
plus gun 7.4?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: grimer on October 30, 2009, 01:30:14 am
hello pat  :hug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 30, 2009, 05:50:37 pm
Watcha G, future chairman of the BMC!
sorry, well pissed last night... been trying to erase loads of messges, like my last post.
Can you still not swim Mr G?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: grimer on October 30, 2009, 06:08:27 pm
No, it's not possible that i swim.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 30, 2009, 06:25:16 pm
Oh dear!!!
you dont need to swim to surf!!!! I kinda got better at swiming by surfing! Suffering from singing... live next door to a church, Choir practice... Its like fucking Jingle bells every Friday!
How are you? comming down South West any time?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 30, 2009, 06:35:45 pm
Nice mellow 3 foot at fistral today clean as anything. I miss surfing!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 30, 2009, 06:51:03 pm
Raaaah! missed it coz of work!!! Watergate was ON! by all accounts... wind swings South W 2moro....
Boo!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2009, 08:28:40 pm
I miss surfing!

Shit, what's been stopping you then?

looks like we will get skunked by shitty winds all weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on October 31, 2009, 08:32:26 pm
For some reason the ABC over here have this little piece on their website at the moment. Big wave stuff filmed at Shipsterne and a few other places: enjoy!
http://www.abc.net.au/news/video/bestofabc.htm?file=http://mpegmedia.abc.net.au/homepage/video/news_bigwaves_edit.flv (http://www.abc.net.au/news/video/bestofabc.htm?file=http://mpegmedia.abc.net.au/homepage/video/news_bigwaves_edit.flv)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 31, 2009, 09:13:39 pm
For some reason the ABC over here have this little piece on their website at the moment.

I think that they are all from the 2009 Billabong XXL awards.

That step at Shipstern seems to trip a few of them up, and full marks to the guy at Dungeons for paddling in and taking the full drop.

Actually had a good day today - two good sessions at the "shithole"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 31, 2009, 09:59:48 pm
Nothing doing here in North Wales today. Small swell and lots of wind.. went for a long run instead. Up early tomorrow and hopefully in at first light.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2009, 03:54:47 pm
NNFN.

Unfair that there are waves like this on a Monday morning in Aberdeen

http://argus-data.wldelft.nl/sites/aberdeen/2009/c2/306_Nov.02/1257159602.Mon.Nov.02_11_00_02.UTC.2009.aberdeen.c2.snap.jpg (http://argus-data.wldelft.nl/sites/aberdeen/2009/c2/306_Nov.02/1257159602.Mon.Nov.02_11_00_02.UTC.2009.aberdeen.c2.snap.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 02, 2009, 05:10:29 pm
These words I am eating taste like shit!!!!
That is the shit!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 02, 2009, 05:16:30 pm
Yep, till sunday. We are touring around though. Prob hit up a few quiet spots with a friend who lives there.
Cool, Tag On... Party week end central. meet at on the rocks bar around nine friday ! doss at mine but poss no sleep!

Just seen this. Only went out in Newquay Saturday. Lewinnick first, then Offshore bar then Belushi's. Not a bad night with all the crazy halloween goings on. Do you live in Newquay then? My mate is trying to get into climbing and lives there, could do with pointing in the right direction.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 02, 2009, 07:31:18 pm
New blog post  November Surf (http://benssimpleblog.wordpress.com/2009/11/02/november-surf/)

Apologies for typos due to iPhone Wordpress interface and any self-indulgence due to my self delusions of literary grandeur.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 03, 2009, 06:11:28 pm
Arctic Surf Film Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmPp_eRWmaI#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on November 03, 2009, 11:41:22 pm
Looks a bit chilly on the willy!

Great video though, some fun stuff (from a non-surfer perspective), in particular the long board.

Whats up with the ply-board thing though, looks like it would be very hard to use?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 04, 2009, 12:04:11 am
Great vid JB!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2009, 07:03:10 pm
Whats up with the ply-board thing though, looks like it would be very hard to use?

it's an alaia (or similar, different sized ones have different names). They are traditional boards, and  usually made of Paulowina wood, probably not plywood. Finless, so pretty hard to ride, but look like great fun. Would love to give one a go.

Had some nice waves today, mild, cloudless and not a breath of wind. Nice small clean swell, great for longboarding. Almost pleasant!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 09, 2009, 06:00:47 pm
Langland Bay!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on November 10, 2009, 09:59:22 am
Werte is Draculars?
Esouannes is the tip if we need not the gun vibe at Anchors? got any other suggestions!!!
Taking a 9.o   A 9.4   and a 9.6
plus gun 7.4?
Draculas is well past anchors going to Boilers. storm rider euro has details.
you will not need a gun for any of the points.
just your standard board wil suffice. looking at those measurements, i assume they are longboards.
ride a short board 6' 1 and only needed my 6'6 once when it was double overhead. you do need massive swells for Anchor point, Mystos to work.

if they are on, it will be rammed. and you will be able to find more waves else where along the coast. if you aren't up for the bigger stuff, there are sheltered beaches and coves along the voast road.

i enjoyed surfing bananna beach and panoramas. banana beach is just north outside of Agadir. you'll see a village elling bananas, simple ehh!!!

a big tip, take loads  and loads of coins, beggars and scam artisits well harass you for change. at boilers they even blocked the carpark entry unless you paid!!
ther is also 'insurance' to ensure your car remains intact while your surfing. yjis will cost coins as well.


if you have time go up to Essaouira. no surf, but very beautiful and fantastic fish stalls and  markets.
dress conservativley. ie slacks and shirt. show a bit of respect to the muslim culture and you wont get hasslesd (as much)


finally, bouldering opposite draculas.
you cant miss it. massive caves on the right side of the coast road heading north from Agadir. easy aprking options on side of the road.

if you don't have bouldering pads, fold up your board bags.

enjoy and happy birthday
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 11, 2009, 12:48:14 pm
Thanks....
Can not wait!


 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 11, 2009, 12:49:23 pm
Fistral is firing... four to five ft and real clean!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2009, 04:31:46 pm
Bloke was in Aberdeen the other day with a waterproof camera - mate tracked him down and go onto his Flickr site - even though it's hard to see, he got a nice shot of me

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3509/4060841849_4bc424e180_b.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on November 12, 2009, 04:39:02 pm
Bloke was in Aberdeen the other day with a waterproof camera - mate tracked him down and go onto his Flickr site - even though it's hard to see, he got a nice shot of me

Anymore?  Would be deady easy to find if you'd backlinked (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Pictures_to_UKBouldering#Backlinking_the_easy_way) to flickr  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2009, 04:45:05 pm
I knew as soon as you posted I had done something wrong. I don't have a flickr account and can't figure out how to backlink without downloading any programmes at work which I am not allowed to do, but here is the guys page, so knock yourself out

http://www.flickr.com/photos/boogieabz (http://www.flickr.com/photos/boogieabz)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on November 12, 2009, 05:16:13 pm
IT work nazi's suck!!

Some good shots there though, bit chilly for my liking though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2009, 06:01:35 pm
Last sat was so hot I had to take my hood off (occasionally!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on November 16, 2009, 07:06:37 pm
A waist high and clean Port Logan two weeks ago.  Doesn't happen very often...especially when anybody can be arsed to drive there who actually owns a surf board.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 16, 2009, 09:43:21 pm
Kite surfers jump over Worthing pier!
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/sussex/8362671.stm (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/sussex/8362671.stm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2009, 10:59:35 pm
Saw that. Holy shit it's some height. Ballsy move
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 17, 2009, 11:26:55 am
It's ballsy alright but don't you think Kite Surfing is really lame?  It's like Inline Skating or something..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 17, 2009, 11:55:24 am
Actually think it looks like good fun, but would never bother - too much multitasking going on, and can't really consider yet another set of toys to eat into my soon to be limited free time. If I lived near the sea somewhere where there was a total lack of waves (even less than Aberdeen) i might take it up.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2009, 09:33:50 am
Looks like the Eddie Aikau Memorial is happening for the forst tome since 2004. And it's going to be big.

http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/eddie/ (http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/eddie/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 08, 2009, 09:46:16 am
Nice one Chris! 40ft sets   :o :o:o

There'll be live streaming on the Quicksilver website once the heats start.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2009, 10:01:34 am
Yup. Keep it minimised.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 08, 2009, 06:42:20 pm
Live web feed from Waimea for the heats here:

The Eddie Aikua memorial from Waimea (http://live.quiksilver.com/2009/bigwave/live.php?btn_live=_over)

Hardly any lag and great quality broadcast with commentary and replays.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 11, 2009, 10:38:08 am
Greg Long wins
report here with amazing pics

http://magicseaweed.com/Long-Wins-Eddie-Content/2120/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Long-Wins-Eddie-Content/2120/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on December 11, 2009, 12:42:57 pm
Pipe was good today as well.
JOB out of the competition. 40 mins  to catch 2 waves  :yawn:
needless to say, he was beaten..
Sunny missed the start of his heat.

handed parko an almost free path to the triple crown. Sunny was not a happy man!!!  >:(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 14, 2009, 02:50:12 pm
Damn... missed it on the I phone apps... got the Vans tripple thingy...
Nice one for the pointers... got a bit of climbing done whilst in Maroc.... just where you said "above Dracs" is pretty good limestone bouldering.
Got some super other areas you may or may not know about?
Heard of Paradise Valley?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 19, 2009, 12:00:13 pm
Hitler's Surf Trip Ruined (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjkv29Y5NhE#)

Bit too obscure to go into the quality non-surfing vids thread, but funny.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on December 19, 2009, 12:50:25 pm
 :lol: Almost as good as the Nikon camera rant!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 19, 2009, 03:49:03 pm
"A 7'6 !! I want to fucking turn you moron..."  :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 21, 2009, 12:48:37 pm
From Shadows (http://vimeo.com/7570431) in Ireland

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/143513.jpg)

 8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2009, 02:38:42 pm
Nice,

Did anyone watch Lives of The Artists last week, I think was on C4, so whould be on their I player or it's on here

http://relentlessenergy.com/ (http://relentlessenergy.com/)

Gallows are definitely not to my taste, but found the interviews quite insightful.

The Mickey Smith and Xavier De la Rue sections are very cool though.

Nice longboard session in Aberdeen yesterday morning - water a lot warmer than air. Getting changed afterwards was challenging, balancing on icy pavement in wet booties.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 28, 2009, 08:10:22 pm
Nice one..  Chris!  http://relentlessenergy.com/ (http://relentlessenergy.com/)

Great film and personally I like a bit of Gallows so I was happy all round... 
Had a NNFN moment today missing out on some Peak bouldering and having to bail to Devon where it's raining! 

However..........  4.5ft at a whomping 18secs with offshores tommorow arvo is some consolation prize.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on January 06, 2010, 07:10:30 pm
more of a sponger myself but good footage of Thurso and No.10 going off with some tow-ins

Thurso (Episode 2) (http://vimeo.com/8178630)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy higginson on January 13, 2010, 12:51:17 pm
Does anyone have any up-to-date knowledge on the state of the roads in North Devon at the moment?   In particular, will it be worth bothering to try to get over to Croyde/ Puts on Saturday (from London), or is it completely hopeless now there's been fresh snow?
Also, if the roads generally are alright, how is the steep road down to Puts? - there doesn't seem to be much/ any snow about on the webcam...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 13, 2010, 09:54:16 pm
Why Puts? I know it's a nice left, but Croyde and Saunton will be OK and it's likely to be pretty quiet at the is time of year. Road as far as Croyde is most likely to be kept clear, not sure about further than that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy higginson on January 13, 2010, 10:50:57 pm
I've had a knee injury for the last year so haven't surfed and still feeling a bit fragile, thought puts might be a bit mellower
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2010, 08:23:28 am
Saunton is a much mellower wave than Puts, which is why it is often packed out with surf schools.

Avoid getting out at low tide at this time of year though, ice block by the time you get to car.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 17, 2010, 12:57:36 pm
Heh Chris and Andy, I know it is few days late but as you are discussing my locals felt I should reply and give the gen for N. Devon.
Roads are all totally clear now.
Puts can be a good wave on it's day..  The advantage is that it is protected from Southerlies (which are funelled offshore) and southwesterlies.  The disadvantage is that swell doesn't get through to here as well as elsewhere so it's always a bit smaller and it often lacks the punch of other beachies (which can be very good if you are starting out or getting back into it).
Saunton is great if you are a logger and/or starting out/getting back into, it is a mellow slow moving wave and as such is perfect for gliding and mastering manaevoures in less critical situations.  However, if the wind is from the S or SW it will be messy, low tide is a long walk!
Croyde again is ruined by S, SWerlies.  At low tide on a reasonable swell it is a HEAVY wave and really NOT SUITABLE if you are starting out or just getting back into surfing.  This wave has broken bones, boards and necks (no joke).  The wave mellows from mid to high tide and is much more forgiving.
At this time of year there are no surf schools out (or lifeguards for that matter) and in the summer ALL the beaches are overrun by surfschools!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 18, 2010, 03:51:21 pm
As Above...
I rate Putts....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 18, 2010, 04:01:35 pm
Agree. Plus you can charge to Baggy and bag a route at low tide, then catch the push once the ledges start getting wet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 18, 2010, 04:08:28 pm
My best surf ever, was tripping out at Croyde on the low @3ft... leashless on a 9.4 single fin, The first time I almost landed a helicopter with out spinning (I.E. cross stepping)....
Bailed the landing coz of a few punters on the inside.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 18, 2010, 11:26:15 pm
My best surf ever, was tripping out at Croyde on the low @3ft... leashless on a 9.4 single fin, The first time I almost landed a helicopter with out spinning (I.E. cross stepping)....
Bailed the landing coz of a few punters on the inside.


Aye! had some of my best waves at Croyde, heaving barrels a plenty on a good day at low-tide but like I say not ideal when you're cutting your teeth.  It jacks up on shallow banks from deep water and BOOOOM, not much time to think about getting to your feet and definitely not a wave the old knees first then to feet take off!

However...my worst ever  :spank: also happened at Croyde @ 5ft+, it was a classic duck dive, reverse back flip, over the falls, sand plant, spin cycle to hold down... Came up gasping for air with severely ruined pride.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on January 20, 2010, 11:07:09 am
 :off: hey guys, a bit random but thought I'd ask anyway. Heading surfing in Morocco (around Taghazoute) mid march and trying to decide what wetsuit to take, I run quite warm and only used to wear a 4/3 in scottish winter so I'm thinking a springy might be best although every where seems to recommend a 3/2. Anyone been there or have any recommendations?
 
Cheers

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 20, 2010, 11:13:02 am
Have a look at a couple of pages back in the thread as Oldfella was dispensing some sage advice on Morocco to Idol Eyes..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on January 20, 2010, 11:25:36 am
cheers for that
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 20, 2010, 11:09:58 pm
 :bounce:  Just booked a hol with mrs granticus to Lanzarote in late March...  Anyone been?  Am I gonna get speared to death by urchins?  I am comfortable riding reefs so should be good, although El Quemao is not high on my list (looks good for lid riders though!)...  Any wisdom welcomed?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 31, 2010, 12:00:42 pm
PM Oldfella... he's been a few times.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 08, 2010, 02:56:54 pm
Smokin....
South coast!
Fistral....
Cribber broke super clean at 10 ft! and looked longboardable???
All breaks have been on for near enough a week and will continue over the next few daze!!! GET IN!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2010, 03:46:17 pm
looked longboardable???

Was Skindog on it agian?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 08, 2010, 08:20:31 pm
Good video of a pretty full-on 'leven on Saturday

Mackin! Porthleven 6th Feb 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkJ9DzRl87U#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2010, 10:49:00 pm
3:06 and 3:50 are waves of the day. Looks awesome, I wouldn't be in there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 09, 2010, 05:36:29 pm
Some big beatings too :spank: :wave:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 09, 2010, 05:52:19 pm
Good vid.... looks like a great day.  Plenty of people on the shoulder but not many takers on the peak  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy higginson on February 09, 2010, 06:02:59 pm
5:25 I think Chris...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 09, 2010, 06:04:14 pm
 :agree: :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 09, 2010, 06:20:47 pm
They do make a lot of noise re leven down in the SW. Whilst it looks fun its hardly classic theres only a few barrels in the whole vid.

The east coast has had at least ten days as good as this since just before christmas, maybe not all as big but proper hollow board snapping conditions with lots and lots of barrels getting ridden.

Still looks good though but too busy for me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on February 17, 2010, 12:28:48 pm
Hey GME,
what all this touting for the NE. obviously your an out of towner telling all dem pasties to venture north.
i'm a hardcore local an don't want any of these southern poofs showing up with with their camera carrying hoes.
taking pictures, waves and our local lassess with their manscaped eyebrows and straightened hair.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on February 17, 2010, 12:38:08 pm
:bounce:  Just booked a hol with mrs granticus to Lanzarote in late March...  Anyone been?  Am I gonna get speared to death by urchins?  I am comfortable riding reefs so should be good, although El Quemao is not high on my list (looks good for lid riders though!)...  Any wisdom welcomed?

Granticius,
in all seriousness , don't drop in on the locals. you will find yourself in a very bad place. especially at breaks like the slab, el quemao and a few of the not so well known good waves.
it is referred to as the north shore of Atlantic. and it is for bothe the waves and the locals attitude.

having said that, la sants point is a cracking right hand point, and is one of the more tolerant waves for visitors.
if you want to surf the slab or el quemao, beleieve me you will want to.
dont park at the break  walk to the break after you park your car on the point.
and ask if it is ok to have a couple of the inside waves.

don't be surprised if you get yelled at and pointed up to la santa to surf.

good luck and have fun
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 17, 2010, 11:42:05 pm
Nice one Oldfella.. Cheers for the gen.  :great:

I'm not in the habbit of dropping in, especially not on locals at their home break... I learnt that 6 years ago ... the hard way at spots that I am now part of the local crew at.  Will try to be respectful...  La Santa looks great so pleased to hear it's a little more tolerant!  Looking forward to shedding some rubber!

Had a good low tide sesh at Croyde this arvo, nothing massive but did manage to sneak out of a nice little bazza which was nice.  A few comedy half term stuntmen were present to experience the shallow nature of low tide  :spank:

In the meantime I am straightening my locks, plucking my eyebrows, gathering the camera biatches and heading your way, GME makes it sound brilliant! With the right kind of media exposure you too could have a zoo like Leven :thumbsup: 

here's some inspiration..  and strangeness
Cypher Vision - A Short Film (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwfjYKjG1MQ#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on February 18, 2010, 02:21:43 am
Granticus,
i forgot to answer the urchin question.
i personaly didn't feel that they were that big a issue, however you may want to take a pair boots .
but beware that the little bastards can still pierce through.
nevertheless,  as you will have your tweezers with you  ;) , it will give a nice 30 mins activity at the end of the day picking the bits of barb out while you sip beer.

in regards to the drop ins, i know that "no-one ever blatantly" drops in, however even the the most accidental of interference may be enough to rile the nerves of nasty young men.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 18, 2010, 09:09:43 am
Oldfella

You must have the wrong preson, i am one of the milton Keynes massive. Our local spots are on the EAST coast out past the wash.
I love pasties and am hopeing to move to newquay next year once i have finished converting my split screen VW.

I went upto the NE coast once but it was too cold the locals were miserable bastards and took offence at me and my 8 mates catching party waves.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 18, 2010, 10:39:03 am
Granticus,
i forgot to answer the urchin question.
i personaly didn't feel that they were that big a issue, however you may want to take a pair boots .
but beware that the little bastards can still pierce through.
nevertheless,  as you will have your tweezers with you  ;) , it will give a nice 30 mins activity at the end of the day picking the bits of barb out while you sip beer.

Can't help with Lanzer, but we went to Feurte for a month, and the urchins are pretty bad. I hate surfing in boots, so i would walk out with the boots on, sit on my board, and throw the boots back. Always one of our party would be on the beach. So when coming back in, we would get them to throw them back. Not ideal, but worked well for us. We still got a few spkies, and as Granticus said, we spent many hours picking them out at night whilst downing our evening beverage!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on February 18, 2010, 11:30:39 am
Fuerta has steroid urchins and the reefs are sharper too.
many locals wore 1 boot and hopped!!!! on the reef.

the better optoin is to wear a bum bag or FANNY pack if you are a seppo. stick your boots in there when you got out the back.

GME,
i think i know who you are
was one of your mates wearing bling, a gold tooth and riding one of those bloody Alleai hawaiian things lording it up in his Porshe??

if i see him up here again i'll get all Fuhrer-esque on him
And how dare he drive a car from the fatherland????
wouldn't surprise me if he waxed his genitals and supported Man City!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 18, 2010, 11:40:13 am
 :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on February 18, 2010, 12:15:50 pm
NO FD,
i'm not refferring to you,
we all know you love the long board and secretly fantasize about having a SUP!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 18, 2010, 12:56:33 pm
RE: Urchins ... I am well versed in urchin spine removal after an encounter in OZ, scraped my bare feet over one and had a nice collection of spines embedded in the top of my foot.  The bigger bit were followed by gushes of blood. Nice!

Gonna take some boots, tweezers, iodine, and wife to watch the car!!

GME Newquay is brilliant you should move there you'd love it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 18, 2010, 02:25:20 pm
Lanza is great, have had many a good trip there and generally get surfing everyday. Your biggest problems are the winds not the locals. morro negro (santa point) gets the prevailing winds cross but gets a bit of shelter. most of the other waves are on shore a lot of the time.

There is an inside reform left at la santa which, whilst being a bag of shite wave, is off shore when everything else is onshore.

You will be dropped in on by the locals and even told to get out of the water so just accept it and chill, eventually they get out. On that point, unlike most other spots getting up early is generally busy, all the locals work so generally piss of about nine so head out then. they also seem to arrive on mass so get out together a crowd of 12 can suddenly be 4, if you want to surf the slab just sit and wait for a shift change, you should be able to grab one or two.

Urchins are bad but not that hard to avoid, biggest tip is to walk on top of the rocks not inbetween them, harder to walk but saves you a lot of pain. Booties dont help against them but make walking on the razor sharp lava a lot easier.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: underground on February 18, 2010, 11:28:01 pm
Oldfella

You must have the wrong preson, i am one of the milton Keynes massive. Our local spots are on the EAST coast out past the wash.
I love pasties and am hopeing to move to newquay next year once i have finished converting my split screen VW.

I went upto the NE coast once but it was too cold the locals were miserable bastards and took offence at me and my 8 mates catching party waves.
  :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 19, 2010, 10:30:49 pm
i just spent a few days in county antrim. Its bloody lovely.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 22, 2010, 11:03:19 am
Seem as i have now posted on here having just looked for the last X years i thought i would keep it going.

More swell for me this last weekend with sat big and mean, too much east in swell meant most waves closing out onto slab  leaving me battered brused and with my tail between my legs. Plus yet another badly dinged board (luckily not terminal). This is now my third board in two months that has been claimed by this reef, 1 totally dead and two in intensive care, who said surfing was cheap?
Sunday could not have been more opposite, shoulder to head high beachy action for three hours, clear blue sky and snow on the ground with not a breath of wind. Fun Fun Fun
God i love surfing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 22, 2010, 11:59:46 am
Moray Coast was apparently ace yesterday, shame I couldn't get there.

CLM could you see that pic I sent you a link to?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 22, 2010, 05:49:43 pm
Moray Coast was apparently ace yesterday, shame I couldn't get there.

CLM could you see that pic I sent you a link to?

Sorry chris, didnt get round to replying. I couldnt see the pic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on February 22, 2010, 10:07:45 pm
most waves closing out onto slab  leaving me battered brused and with my tail between my legs. Plus yet another badly dinged board (luckily not terminal). This is now my third board in two months that has been claimed by this reef, 1 totally dead and two in intensive care, who said surfing was cheap?

readin that is like music to Sam Egan's ears
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2010, 09:55:38 pm
Fistral clean today... good 3 ft sets...
South coast banging 8 ft yesterday two spongers and and three Newquayites....
tommorrow looks great... now sat in Kendal.... fackin work.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 23, 2010, 10:01:51 pm
South coast banging 8 ft yesterday two spongers and and three Newquayites....


was the report for Porthleven...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 23, 2010, 10:04:46 pm
Damn, i need to put my new wetsuit to good use before the winter waves finish!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 24, 2010, 09:46:25 pm
McNuffin for the rest of the week!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 24, 2010, 09:51:13 pm
Fistral clean today... good 3 ft sets...
South coast banging 8 ft yesterday
Yeah Gwithian was nice too (but Godrevy bouldering was wet..)

I watched a few guys out in Mounts Bay in my lunch hour yesterday, never seen people getting long long rides right next to St. Michaels Mount before. Looked really nice but a hard paddle. Can imagine Porth/Praa/PerranT must all have been firing
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2010, 09:25:27 am
Amazing swell would wrap all the way in there. Any pics?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 25, 2010, 12:42:57 pm
Amazing swell would wrap all the way in there. Any pics?

Yep here..

 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2704/4387372506_cd3e9411f0_m.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7261339@N04/4387372506/)

doesn't really do it justice, it was peeling better over nearer the causeway
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2010, 02:00:25 pm
Still cool tho'.

Should you venture out at Aberdeen today you run the danger of hitting lumps of ice. I kid you not, the Dee is full of it getting washed down and out to sea.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 25, 2010, 02:41:36 pm
http://thisrichtapestry.blogspot.com/ (http://thisrichtapestry.blogspot.com/)

Nice surfing/travel blog
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 05, 2010, 11:48:55 pm
Small clean pulse tomorrow....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 08, 2010, 07:08:21 pm
I don't know if this has been mentioned on here but on the subject of blogs (falling Down) i am a big fan of Dane Reynolds (http://www.marinelayerproductions.com (http://www.marinelayerproductions.com))

A happy medium for me as i like the artsy side of it all rather than the juvenile bullshit in a lot of the cutting edge surfing stuff, but i really am not into the retro/ alaia ridding hippy shit that tends to accompany many of the better written stuff.

Dane Reynolds and a few of the younger surfers (check out the modern collective DVD) who are really pushing the boundaries of what is possible seem to be putting a bit of character back into the top end of the sport.

Hope you enjoy, i am off to put the finishing touches to my tri plane hull bonzer i have shaped from my home grown Koa. Hopfully i will get well over two grand for it once finished.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 09, 2010, 08:39:22 am
2 grand? If you are Roy Stewart add a zero? :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 09, 2010, 12:18:07 pm
Didnt know the old blond crooner was making surfboards now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2010, 09:55:38 am
Last Friday had my first ever taste of surfing with an evening lesson in Lahinch as the sun was setting.

Absolutely brilliant fun  :thumbsup:  Managed to get to standing on the first wave (meager achievement, but I was chuffed  :-[).  Thoroughly enjoyed every minute in the water, and the sunset was gorgeous too  :great:

Going to see if there are any beginners breaks on Madeira where I'm off too in just over a fortnight.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2010, 10:32:47 am
Nice one slackers. Have spent many an hour looking out the window at howling onshore winds and rain and drinking Guiness in the pub overlooking Lahinch. Had a couple of good sessiosn down the coast though.

Will look at stormriders guide later on, I'm sure Madeira gets a writeup.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2010, 12:10:12 pm
Can't believe its taken me this long to see what all the fuss over surfing is.  Don't think I'll take it up as a full-time sport/hobby, but something else to do on holidays, and definitely beats sitting around doing nothing.

Looks like I'm out of luck with Madeira (http://www.surfing-waves.com/travel/madeira.htm), although I might seek out some of the "all surfers" spots (http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Europe/Madeira/index.html) in conjunction with some lessons though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2010, 12:16:09 pm
Better get better quickly then!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 30, 2010, 12:46:42 pm
Madeira = big heavy open ocean surf.  I'd be very anxious about heading out there to surf and wouldn't take anything under 7'2" and 2 1/2" thick and a winter in the pool/gym/surfing big waves in the UK.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2010, 01:04:04 pm
Watched a few videos just now during lunch  :o

Bit of a pipe-dream of being able to surf any of that at the moment!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 30, 2010, 06:31:12 pm
Nice pic from near Abersoch at the weekend...

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/159241.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 30, 2010, 06:40:57 pm
Wow! You down at Easter FD?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 30, 2010, 06:54:33 pm
Watched a few videos just now during lunch  :o

Bit of a pipe-dream of being able to surf any of that at the moment!

I'm sure the locals had to learn somewhere though. You might just have to man up and take lots of beatings :-)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 30, 2010, 06:57:39 pm
Wow! You down at Easter FD?

Nope off to Siurana to try and kick start my climbing year .. Although after some news today I might be needing some urgent surf fitness before May.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 30, 2010, 08:18:24 pm
Cryptic response? Whatever that means I hope it's a positive result for you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on March 30, 2010, 11:28:34 pm
Watched a few videos just now during lunch  :o

Bit of a pipe-dream of being able to surf any of that at the moment!

I'm sure the locals had to learn somewhere though. You might just have to man up and take lots of beatings :-)

 :-\ Guess you're right, might be game if its not too heaving  :devangel:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 31, 2010, 10:03:05 pm
.. just got back from Lanzarote and swell was pumping, La Santa was maxed out for a good proportion of the time which as it turned out was no great  loss.  Went exploring and found some gems...Surfed solid overhead el Golfo, on the east coast  - P.. M.. and Jameos del Agua, got a brief bit of not so perfect but fun all the same la Santa (still close to maxed out closing out right across) and come home a happy bunny. :great:

On urchins, by standing on tops of reefs and not in holes and by avoiding putting feet down I managed to avoid the buggers almost completely, 1 spine in my big toe.

On localism..  paddled out on my own at all the spots (Mrs G don't surf!), with a  :) on and said 'hola' to everyone, sat and waited my turn at the peaks of all the waves but made sure I went for the peaks and didn't faff waiting for inside waves or shoulder hopping..  Locals were nothing but friendly and didn't get any negative vibes at all.  The only person to 'have a word' was a young lad at Jameos, he told me 'I was getting too many waves and that i should show respect'!  I pointed out that he was sitting well inside and on the shoulder, that he would get no waves where he was and that I would show respect to him if he were on the peak.  ie. I wasn't about to sit outside him and catch nothing.  I invited him to paddle with me to the line up I was using and he promptly caught a wave.  He was stoked.  Didn't get shouted at, pointed at, attacked or called out the water, even got told I had a good session (in Spanish)!  So I guess I must've been doing something right..  :shrug:

All in all it was a splendid and surreal surfing experience, I was sat in the line up one evening watching the sun go down behind a volcano, with palm trees in the foreground, in warm water with perfect waves reeling off one after another thinking..  well this is nice.   :jaw:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 01, 2010, 09:17:54 am
Nice One...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 01, 2010, 11:14:18 am
Quote
Nice One...
  Aye! Twas flippin marvelous..  And what do I return to, snow, rain, wind, mush..  Looking pretty ugly for surfing down here at the moment :thumbsdown:

Slackers - I reckon you'll find some sheltered coves in Madeira to hone your skills at but be warned once you start down this path you it may well take over your life, in a good way mind..  If there are any booming swells coming through whilst you're there it would be pretty inspiring to watch some 'hell men' taking on the big wave spots. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 07, 2010, 03:17:41 pm
So thanks to a wine fuelled conversation between GME of this parrish and my darling wife at a party last weekend I'm now booked on another 'trip of a lifetime' to the Banyak Islands in four weeks time as a surprise 40th birthday gift.

I'd better get to the gym and the pool so I can be doing this again with confidence.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4500158116_80fda4b9ef.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4500158116_80fda4b9ef.jpg)

 :dance1:


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 07, 2010, 03:19:26 pm
.. just got back from Lanzarote and swell was pumping,

Sounds like a great trip.  Good to hear that a cool approach in the water paid dividends...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 07, 2010, 03:24:49 pm
Twice in a lifetime. Jammy git, better get the fitness up!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on April 09, 2010, 04:20:00 pm
FD,
i heard the ticket was coming your way.
now how about that braddock CD now you'll be 'training' in chesire for a surf trip in sumatra!!

last i heard from the koby ellis, you'd be needing tape worms rather than some fancy trainig regieme.

slackers,
don't start surfing, stick with the love of leather and willow.

Granticus,
glad you had some good waves in lanza.
surprised you did see jerry out there. bastard is there every 2nd week now days.....


a word of warning for all you 'fashionable' surfers, don't surf twin fins in double over head surf!!
beleieve me when i say the tri fin evolved with good reason.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 10, 2010, 10:06:13 am
Oldfella

OK OK I'll try and do that CD for you before we go away. 

As for tape worms, Koby could do with a measuring tape of his own.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 11, 2010, 10:11:31 pm
Quote
Granticus,
glad you had some good waves in lanza.
surprised you did see jerry out there. bastard is there every 2nd week now days.....

Didn't see a single non Canarian/Spanish surfer in the water at all, unless they were keeping a super low profile and/or have a very convincing Spanish accent..

Back to good ole 5mm, boots and gloves and hood...  Good swells last weekend, served up the goods in N. Devon great to be back but damn all the rubber is hard work!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 12, 2010, 06:01:18 pm
Been in with Callum!
Nice...
Went on a date to Llangenith, ended up in a shortie and a weird foamy... and ripped, funny watchin al the "others" fully wraped in 5mil ans boot and stuff in freezin water.... I just pretended i was in Hawaii!...
no swell west side all week!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 12, 2010, 10:55:40 pm
No swell. No Swell. No Swell!  Been a while since that's been the case, had a last blast at Croyde this morning on my longboard! (Haven't had to bring that into play for a while).

Nice article on MSW about this winter season and the weather patterns that have caused a good season for the South Coast. Apparently it's been crap for Maderia though, nevermind Slackers...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 13, 2010, 08:04:26 am
something to do with the El Nino effect...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2010, 08:35:32 am
No swell. No Swell. No Swell!  Been a while since that's been the case, had a last blast at Croyde this morning on my longboard!

Sounds like the East Coast.

Heard sunday morning was good at Saunton? May have been mate prone to hyperbole though.

So you eventually went for a longboard after initial reticence then?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 13, 2010, 11:57:22 am
Quote
Heard sunday morning was good at Saunton? May have been mate prone to hyperbole though.

So you eventually went for a longboard after initial reticence then?

The words good and Saunton don't generally get used in my vocabulary, wasn't anywhere near the coast on Sunday but my assumption is that it was knee high and clean at best (which if we're talking about Saunton = a very unexciting surfing experience).

YEP!  I have a minimal about 7''4 and a 7''6 Bonzer (my first board).  They only come into play when the surf is 1 to 2ft and they are lots of fun in smaller waves which in the past I would've just sacked off.  However, if the surf is 3ft upwards it's back to the shorties for me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2010, 12:38:10 pm
7' 6" aint no longboard!

He is a dead keen longboarder so I guess his idea of what is good differs from yours.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 13, 2010, 04:10:19 pm
Aye... Probably was a nice little slow moving, dribbler of a wave at Saunton.
7''6 is long compared to 6''2.  I guess the point is I've taken to using longer boards with more volume on smaller days and that it is lots of fun!  Not the same as ripping into overhead waves on a shortboard but fun all the same. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2010, 05:05:43 pm
Anyone managing to get Thurso CWC streaming?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 13, 2010, 06:07:05 pm
They stopped the comp earlier today - conditions. Resuming tmr.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 13, 2010, 10:11:54 pm
watched a little bit this morning...  First Call is for 6.30am tommorow so could start pretty soon after that.  Brimms tommorow, then looking like they'll head to Thurso later in the week. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 16, 2010, 09:53:40 am
A surfing alpaca  :o

(http://www.independent.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00337/Tuesday_-_Peru_337221s.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2010, 09:56:16 am
an alcapa wearing accapi?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 19, 2010, 11:49:12 am
First dawnie of the year. YYFY. Small clean swell, nice for some longboard glides. Then it started snowing!? Was just about hypothermic by the time I changed out of wettie, got dressed and walked to work. It's mid April FFS.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 20, 2010, 03:18:44 pm
Quote
First dawnie of the year. YYFY. Small clean swell, nice for some longboard glides. Then it started snowing!? Was just about hypothermic by the time I changed out of wettie, got dressed and walked to work. It's mid April FFS.

We have had the longest spell of good weather I can think of in recent times...  Been 18 days of sunshine and blue skies so far down here.  Car thermo read 22 celcius yesterday.  Shorts and t-shirts have been dug out the drawers.  Been bouldering regular and sport climbing.. Beautiful!  But it's also been FLAT, like proper FLAT, not even a wave that's surfable by a mouse, NOTHING! It may be cold but at least you're getting waves!  Looks like we may be waiting until early next week for a swell of any kind...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 20, 2010, 04:59:48 pm
Two three hour sessions yestersday, first light and last light. Morning a bit average but nice to be in water, evening really nice once wind dropped off. Nice little left reef with only three in.

I love the winter for the swell and not mad keen on the summer, but the late nights/ early mornings are a god send.

Water is still f**king cold though, cant see taking hood and gloves off for at least another month and i dont feel the cold that bad.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 20, 2010, 06:08:26 pm
Had a fantastic dawnie two weeks ago... got up, looked out, two foot peeling Fistral! only one in for two hours... cross stepping and nose riding on command, Got out ... Sun Sea Sand bars and Surf... STOKED!
Its great to have one of the best breaks (Arguably), to your self!!! reminded me of soloing accross Stanage edge with no one around!!! love these momments!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2010, 07:22:45 pm
Water is still f**king cold though, cant see taking hood and gloves off for at least another month

Definitely. Worst time of year for feeling cold as air temp is warming up faster than sea.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 10, 2010, 11:18:09 am
Just a quick heads up surfing chums.  'Waveriders' a documentary about surfing in in Ireland is on this evening 10.35pm on BBC1 Northern Ireland.... 

I think/hope it will be possible to watch it on t'interweb by setting your region on bbc website to NI and then watching live.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 11, 2010, 11:07:51 am
Nice short from Cali

Home Is Where The Surf Is (http://vimeo.com/11272077)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2010, 12:35:45 pm
Some nice footage, not sure what benefit there was including Slutter in it though.

Could do with a wave like that right now.

Is FD in Indo yet?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on May 11, 2010, 12:56:01 pm
yes, FD, GME, Moon and Moffatt all taking in the pleasures that coral reefs, sunshine and 8 ft indian ocean swells offer.

bastards, :furious:

they will be back around the 27th may
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2010, 12:57:39 pm
Barstewards. And it's still flatter than a flounders cock here, as it has been for quite a while.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2010, 01:04:53 pm

I think/hope it will be possible to watch it on t'interweb by setting your region on bbc website to NI and then watching live.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/ (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 11, 2010, 11:28:07 pm
Aye!  Tried to watch it live :thumbsdown:  But at least tis on iplayer.  Nice film, enjoyed it  ;D

Still flippin flat here and hearing that folk are in Indo enjoying perfection is not helping :wall:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on May 12, 2010, 12:27:40 pm
tell me about it.
this is my 2nd trip i have had to abort due to other influences.
those being;
- the unplanned birth of my first child. due the week we (I) was supposed to fly out!!!
- starting a new business and not having anyone to run it while i was away.

to make it worse, this sunday and monday they will be getting a lovely 10+ft swell at 16 seconds.
and that shit wont dissapear anytime soon.

if either FD or GME moan over the next 12months after a trip like that, feel free to kick them as hard as you can in the balls.

that will give them something to moan about....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 12, 2010, 01:45:52 pm
You really shouldn't torture yourself looking at the forecasts.

I will take solace in the fact that a 10ft swell on a shallow reefbreak would probably kill me outright.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 13, 2010, 10:26:27 pm
Quote
I will take solace in the fact that a 10ft swell on a shallow reefbreak would probably kill me outright.

Sounds pant filling to me too.... but 10ft swell = special nooks and crannies in sheltered corners lighting up at a more ameanable size.  Or we could just grow a pair, bring out the gun and man up TOAD!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Turboman on May 14, 2010, 09:57:04 pm
If any of you family men ever find yourself suffering the delights of Disney World - Orlando, this place provides some blessed relief.  Apologies for the 'home video' I knocked it together for the grandparents.

Charlie Don't Surf (http://vimeo.com/11746045)

Incase you're wondering the lass helping me into the wave is none other than current womens US East coast champ Ami Berg (http://www.cflsurf.com/images/ami/ami.html) Definitely one for DFBWGS!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 16, 2010, 01:38:04 pm
 :bounce:  Swell Call, been waiting for a while but forecast is looking strong for this week Tues onwards. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2010, 03:22:18 pm
Forecast here has changed too. From flat to stupidly flat http://magicseaweed.com/Aberdeen-Surf-Report/41/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Aberdeen-Surf-Report/41/)

Worst spring ever.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 24, 2010, 10:56:48 am
How good has it been in the SW over the last week?!  fantastic..  summer suit out, bikini's on the beach and great waves..

surfed 4 times over the weekend, here's how Gwenvor looked when I arrived on Saturday morning..

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4634375113_a0353878a9.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 24, 2010, 10:58:36 am
Gwenvor looks like it was over-saturated on Saturday  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 24, 2010, 11:10:41 am
Mornin' fellas.

Back at work and more than a bit jetlagged.  We had a great trip with good swell over the two weeks with only a couple of onshore/small days (an ear infection kept me out of the water for 4 days though  :().

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3343/4635218450_59dd8dd068.jpg) (http://<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/derbyshire_ben/4635218450/" title="Bay of Plenty - May 2010 by Derbyshire_Ben, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3343/4635218450_59dd8dd068.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Bay of Plenty - May 2010" /></a>)

More pics and details to follow.....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 24, 2010, 11:15:14 am
Gwenvor looks like it was over-saturated on Saturday  :P
Yeah twas taken with my new HTC Desire and not entirely convinced by it's camera..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2010, 12:19:34 pm
(an ear infection kept me out of the water for 4 days though  :().

Bummer. Did you pick it up there or have it before you left?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 24, 2010, 12:31:23 pm
There... water stuck in ear, tropical conditions etc. etc.  I was kicking myself for not using my ear plugs but I normally associate them with cold water. Luckily we had antibiotics and antibiotic drops onboard otherwise I would have been in trouble so far away from a medical centre.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on May 24, 2010, 01:35:17 pm

I think/hope it will be possible to watch it on t'interweb by setting your region on bbc website to NI and then watching live.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/ (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00scvjr/Waveriders/)

It's available on DVD down here courtesy of our version of Auntie (the ABC that is.)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on May 24, 2010, 01:47:12 pm
Quote
It's available on DVD down here courtesy of our version of Auntie (the ABC that is.)
  Tis available yer too but I'm a bit on the mean side so watching it for free was just what i was after. 

Last week did indeed pump, favourable winds and the weather has been beaut, got in 4 times for about 3 hours each session..  The hoods gone, the gloves are gone and the boots are gone.  Flat again now... 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 24, 2010, 02:01:07 pm
Some nice footage, not sure what benefit there was including Slutter in it though.

I could be wrong but the film is dedicated to Rennie Yater, one of the innovators of board design and inventor of the 'Spoon' displacement hull boards back in the day which were a big contributing factor to the shortboard revolution.  It then shows various people riding displacement hull/liddle inspired boards and then Slater in the shaping bay making a board that he then rides that looks like some wierd displacement/thruster combination.  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2010, 02:30:00 pm

It's available on DVD down here courtesy of our version of Auntie (the ABC that is.)

It's good, but not worth forking out readies for. As far as quality Irish Footage goes, the Relentless Energy one is miles better IMO.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2010, 02:31:19 pm
Flat again now...

Conicidentally it was flat here last week, and is still flat now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 30, 2010, 02:36:39 pm
Slideshow from Banyak trip here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/derbyshire_ben/sets/72157624041337311/show
 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/derbyshire_ben/sets/72157624041337311/show)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 30, 2010, 03:08:22 pm
Looks amazing. I need to get back out to indo, what a place.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on May 31, 2010, 01:23:28 am
With the first big storms of the winter brewing, sydney was going off the last couple of weekends

A selection shots below all from here (http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/article.aspx?articleId=7555&cateId=26&display=0&title=May%2013%20%E2%80%93%2016,%202010.%20The%20first%20solid%206-8ft%20plus%20south%20swell%20of%20the%20autumn/winter%20season!)

Cronulla
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/28May10-2_2010528131618.jpg)

Bronte
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/Kobi_Graham02_2010519154928.jpg)

South Sydney
(http://www.coastalwatch.com/uploadedmedia/articles/untitled[2]_2010519153328.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on May 31, 2010, 06:36:35 am
i can concur that the surf was pumping this weekend!!!
it was a great way to break a surf drought since Easter holidays. a work imposed exile
more barrells in one day than i've had in the past 3 years!
proper deep ones too, not those little shampoo things where you see a bit of the lip infront and a quick gurgle behind.

very very happy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 02, 2010, 06:07:42 pm
More pumpage this week.  :dance1:  Been splendid and warm too!
Surfed a lurverly rocky point this morning, me and 4 others all folks I know, taking turns and attempting to shred
to our best.  There's been furineerz all over this place during the winter, so it was refreshing to get an all locals session
without the crowd factor.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 02, 2010, 06:34:16 pm
Nice pics Carnage. Cronulla looks great.

Oldfella - glad you got some after missing out. It would have been great to have you along.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 05, 2010, 09:49:20 am
Looking for some advice from the UKB surfing gurus.  Me and the missus are heading down to N Devon and Cornwall at the end of the week and I wondered where we should go. She body boards and I'm a rank beginner with an 8'6" board to play with.  So, Croyde, Bude.........where should we be heading?  :-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2010, 10:13:16 am
Any of the above. In summer time the life guards have odd rules about bodyboarders at patrolled beaches - if you don't have fins you are regarded as a tourist and therefore have to stay in the swimming area, if you have fins you are a "proper" bodyboarder and have to stay outside it. Most odd.

That aside, Woolacombe at Croyde is a good place to escape the crowds, esp if you drive down the road a bit and walk down to the beach - you can sometimes pick your own peak. This time of year Putsborough and Croyde are heaving, as is Saunton, but you can combine Puts and Croyde with a low tide route or two at Baggy, which is always a bonus.

Working southwards - Summerleaze at Bude is nice, but most likely v busy, so good alternatives are Northcott and Sandymouth just North, both OK, but parking is limited. Can also be combined with climbing or bouldering.

Widemouth is also quite nice, bt again can be crowded.

South again are the breaks around Padstow - Polzeath and Constantine are good, but can be crowded (can you see a theme developing here). Harlyn Bay is worth remembering as westerly winds are offshore here, so good when everywhere else is blown out. Again, can be combine with Pentire.

Those are the most popular options there are loads of quieter spots inbetween. Granticus may spill the beans on some via PM if he's feeling generous.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 05, 2010, 10:33:49 am
Thanks Chris!  Very prompt and gives me loads to think about.  I've been dabbling in surfing for years and I'm determined to really knuckle down and give it a shot - perhaps the 8'6" board will help!   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2010, 01:56:32 pm
No probs. I recommend getting a bit of swimming in and do at least a few push ups and pop ups at home every day before you go. Nothing worse that reaching that point in the session where things are really starting to come together technique wise and your arms start giving out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 05, 2010, 04:50:58 pm
No probs. I recommend getting a bit of swimming in and do at least a few push ups and pop ups at home every day before you go. Nothing worse that reaching that point in the session where things are really starting to come together technique wise and your arms start giving out.

Arms?  What arms?  They whithered away when I gave up climbing, (almost)  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2010, 07:27:31 pm
Then yo ass is in deep trouble. Prepare for paddle outs when the arms feel like limp noodles.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 05, 2010, 07:50:51 pm
and shoulders... daily building to thrice daily  4 sets x 25 rep pressups wide, tricep and long until Holiday plus lots of pool work.  Enjoy :-)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 05, 2010, 08:10:07 pm
guess thats me too fd. Wide i get, tricep? Long?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 05, 2010, 11:27:55 pm
Fuck me!  If I'd wanted PTI's, I'd have asked!  ;D  OK, OK, I'm a bad boy  :spank: I'll put in the work  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: yorkshirewarcry on June 06, 2010, 12:34:28 am
I've not surfed much in Devon, but when I climbed at Speke's Mill Mouth, close to Hartland, last year there were loads of folk in the water in the beach below.  Bit of a walk to get down there unless you have a 4x4 I think, but an awesome spot and the surf looked pretty good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: JamesPullan on June 06, 2010, 09:32:24 am
It sounds to me that the are showing absolutely no regard for the "rule of the wave", I don't surf but even I know that if you spot a wave before another surfer, it's your wave and you have rights to it.

I reckon if they turned up individually you wouldn't have had a problem. Whether it was long board snobbery or aggression in numbers is debatable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 06, 2010, 09:49:56 am
James, are you referring to my original post from 43 pages ago? If not, not sure of the relevance.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 06, 2010, 12:18:44 pm
guess thats me too fd. Wide i get, tricep? Long?

Sorry CLM just noticed this.

Tricep pressups.. a pushup with hands down by the waist and in against the body. Let me see if I can find a picture..

(http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2008/02/12/WMB80.fuel.ex_bf2-480-90-480-70.jpg)

Long - I do them with my hands in front of my head.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Paul B on June 06, 2010, 12:45:37 pm
Long - I do them with my hands in front of my head.

They're hard! Tried them on rings?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2010, 12:04:33 am
Quote
Those are the most popular options there are loads of quieter spots inbetween. Granticus may spill the beans on some via PM if he's feeling generous.
JH I may be too late for your trip but given that you are a rank beginner on an 8''6 my advice is this.. Ideally you want offshore or very light winds and a nice knee to waste high wave.

In North Devon..  Better waves for you (ie. mellower waves that will give you a chance to hone your skills without eating sand/rock) will be Saunton Sands (mid to high tide), Woolacombe (mid to high tide), Westward Ho! (low to three quarters) and Putsborough (all through tides mid to high being better).  Puts will be a touch smaller than everywhere else because it's sheltered and you can walk to get away from crowds at all these spots.  Low tide Croyde is best avoided until you are good because it's powerful, fast, shallow (dangerous!) and the locals are agressive or is that competative?

In North Cornwall.. Mellower waves are Polzeath, Summerleaze, Widemouth..  Quieter spots can be found North of Bude ie. Sandymouth, Northcott, Duckpool.. but can only be surfed around low-tide (due to rocks and cliffs at high-tide), they also tend to be heavier waves than the above mentioned.  Harlyn is off-shore in a Southerly/ South Westerly (west is cross) and is a fast wave that tends to close-out,  Constantine (or 'Boobies') again tends to be a heavier wave. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2010, 12:15:23 am
I've not surfed much in Devon, but when I climbed at THAT PLACE, close to Hartland, last year there were loads of folk in the water in the beach below.
  It is a reef break, waves break over jagged rock fins, it also very localised and not the sort of place to rock up to if your face is not familiar.  Not really what JH is after and not really a place to shout about :spank:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 07, 2010, 08:28:56 am
Long - I do them with my hands in front of my head.

They're hard! Tried them on rings?

Never tried rings but I'd like to. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 07, 2010, 09:44:15 am

JH I may be too late for your trip but given that you are a rank beginner on an 8''6 my advice is this.. Ideally you want offshore or very light winds and a nice knee to waste high wave.

Thanks granticus!  Not going till the end of the week, so this is great beta.  I'll let you know how beaten up I am when I get back!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 01:31:37 pm
Hi guys, got 2 weeks holiday at the end of october, looking for somewhere with reasonable surf and warm weather for the girlfriend. Ideally I would head back to indo but its a long way to go for such a short time (always used to go for a month or two). Thinking about sri lanka but not sure where to head as end of october is right between the recommended times for the main areas; east (a bay) or south west. Has anyone here been especially around this time of the year?

Any other recommendations greatfully received (morocco is out as already been this year)

cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 07, 2010, 02:06:17 pm
Stay in Europe. All the main spots will be primetime. France, spain,portugal or the canaries. 3/2 wetsuit at most and proper swells. All depends on how hot your girl wants it.

I never understand surfers leaving europe in the autumn?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2010, 02:38:13 pm
Hebrides for the warmth! :)

Well, provided you have a nice fire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 02:40:46 pm
Personally I'd head for the hebrides but I think she's keen for tropics, although she did seem ok with the idea of portugal. I need to get a girlfriend who surfs!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2010, 02:43:45 pm
Or just teach the one you have?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 02:46:57 pm
tried that a few times... think her fear of water held her back..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2010, 03:55:24 pm
Upgrade time then :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 07, 2010, 04:36:15 pm
Never get a girlfriend who surfs, or teach the one you have. Same goes for climbing.
Half the fun is getting away with the lads.
What you want is to get her into some other sport or pastime that takes up loads of her spare weekends and holidays. She will never then want to go away with you meaning you could goto the hebs.

Also you can surf all day long without having to pretend your enjoying all the la de da bullshit that they want to do when really you just want to eat, drink ,watch the surf then get back in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 04:36:57 pm
hmm...so now i need somewhere with good surf and hot (or not) girls who like bouldering and surfing... you're not making things any easier..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2010, 04:40:03 pm
Quote
Personally I'd head for the hebrides but I think she's keen for tropics, although she did seem ok with the idea of portugal. I need to get a girlfriend who surfs!

Canaries would be a good compromise... went to Lanza for the first time this year and had an epic time.. (See earlier in
this thread)..

Don't get a girlfriend who surfs or try to teach yours to surf, this is a recipe for arguments galour.  She can sunbathe
whilst you surf and you won't have to 'look after' someone in the line up.  Leaving you to enjoy your selfish rights or lefts
free from the hassle (at least from the missus that is).  Seriously, time apart is healthy and you don't need to surf all day.
You do your thing, she does hers and you do something together at another point in the day, simples. :kiss1: 

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 07, 2010, 05:02:36 pm
Quote
Personally I'd head for the hebrides but I think she's keen for tropics, although she did seem ok with the idea of portugal. I need to get a girlfriend who surfs!

Canaries would be a good compromise... went to Lanza for the first time this year and had an epic time.. (See earlier in
this thread)..

Don't get a girlfriend who surfs or try to teach yours to surf, this is a recipe for arguments galour.  She can sunbathe
whilst you surf and you won't have to 'look after' someone in the line up.  Leaving you to enjoy your selfish rights or lefts
free from the hassle (at least from the missus that is).  Seriously, time apart is healthy and you don't need to surf all day.
You do your thing, she does hers and you do something together at another point in the day, simples. :kiss1:

Thats our usual plan and it works nicely, hence it has to be warm for her. Had seen your comments regarding lanza, does sound good, its having to hire a car which makes the canaries or portugal end up costing the same as heading further.

I'm pretty crap at surfing (basic turns only!) and got the impression that there are few inbetween options in the canaries, either beach breaks or serious shallow reefs? i'm quite happy on reefs if the surf or the crowd isn't too large.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 07, 2010, 06:35:44 pm
madagascar? No idea if its the right season. Just looks nice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 07, 2010, 10:19:54 pm
I've heard it's as sharky as fook.  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2010, 11:27:42 pm
Quote
I'm pretty crap at surfing (basic turns only!) and got the impression that there are few inbetween options in the canaries, either beach breaks or serious shallow reefs? i'm quite happy on reefs if the surf or the crowd isn't too large.

Not all the reefs are seriously shallow on Lanza but there is definitely a crowd/locals factor.  Spain, SW France or Portugal sound like the goer.  Sri Lanka's supposed to be awesome mind.. looks like it pumps at A Bay in October with morning offshores.. and plenty of long mellow sandy points, yum yum.. http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10 (http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10) 

Failing that you could come and spend some of your hard earned in the SW Uk... :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2010, 08:37:31 am
I've heard it's as sharky as fook.  :(

Yup heard similar.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 08, 2010, 09:30:17 am
Quote
I'm pretty crap at surfing (basic turns only!) and got the impression that there are few inbetween options in the canaries, either beach breaks or serious shallow reefs? i'm quite happy on reefs if the surf or the crowd isn't too large.

Not all the reefs are seriously shallow on Lanza but there is definitely a crowd/locals factor.  Spain, SW France or Portugal sound like the goer.  Sri Lanka's supposed to be awesome mind.. looks like it pumps at A Bay in October with morning offshores.. and plenty of long mellow sandy points, yum yum.. http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10 (http://magicseaweed.com/spot-monthly-overview.php?spotId=562&month=10) 

Failing that you could come and spend some of your hard earned in the SW Uk... :thumbsup:

cheers for the link, thats just what I was looking for. Wasn't aware of that option on magic seaweed, very useful.

Cheers for all the ideas, I think suggesting sri lanka early on in the negotiations was a mistake as the weather, elephants etc have made all other options less attractive. Will try some of the others next year.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2010, 09:55:45 am
Elephants etc - South Africa? October will be springtime, so tail end of winter swells, buy you could easily do a J-Bay / Addo NP Combo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2010, 12:30:38 pm
Interesting new group of "surfers" identified....

Surfing crocs (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/science_and_environment/10260382.stm#id10260000/10263200/10263246)

 :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2010, 01:22:29 pm
FAO anyone who surfs Hells Mouth. Anyone know the 'conditions' for a decent wave. Magic Seaweed forecast is just automated and have been told from a reliable source that even though MS predict no wave, there often is. Thanks!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2010, 01:30:52 pm
FAO anyone who surfs Hells Mouth. Anyone know the 'conditions' for a decent wave.

Deep Low Pressure in Mid Atlantic? :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2010, 01:32:15 pm
FAO anyone who surfs Hells Mouth. Anyone know the 'conditions' for a decent wave.

Deep Low Pressure in Mid Atlantic? :)

 ::) Someone told me the exact setup to look out for, but have forgotten. Any useful answers?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2010, 01:51:56 pm
FD's home turf.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 08, 2010, 01:52:56 pm
http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/surfreport.htm (http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/surfreport.htm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 08, 2010, 02:03:51 pm
>Any useful answers?

The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.

Beyond that that, check the synoptic charts, prevailing weather and tide every day and see how that compares with what you are seeing on the webcams at WestCoast, that should give you a good idea of when it's working and when it isn't.

I'm not being facetious but to get to grips with a spot you need to surf there and just hang out alot to learn the ropes, it takes a reasonably long time to figure this kind of stuff out.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 08, 2010, 05:38:54 pm
Quote
Cheers for all the ideas, I think suggesting sri lanka early on in the negotiations was a mistake as the weather, elephants etc have made all other options less attractive. Will try some of the others next year.


Gutted for you!! :boohoo:  Mate Sri Lanka, by all accounts, will be mint. 

Quote
Someone told me the exact setup to look out for, but have forgotten. Any useful answers?

Going with the FD theme, the useful answer is, to look carefully at swell direction especially for spots like the Lleyn where
if there is too much west in the swell it will miss the target, look carefully at swell size (the size of the breaking wave will vary according to the swell size and the set up it's hitting) and quality (quality being indicated
by the swell period 10 secs = getting good 14 secs = pumping),  look carefully at wind direction (offshore or no wind is
preferable) and look carefully at tides (remember spring tides are bigger, so lower low and higher highs, neap tides will vary less).
Combine all this information with your favourite spot/ area and you'll know where to go when, meaning you should get the
best waves available on any given day (provided there is swell that is).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 08, 2010, 08:33:21 pm
Quote
Cheers for all the ideas, I think suggesting sri lanka early on in the negotiations was a mistake as the weather, elephants etc have made all other options less attractive. Will try some of the others next year.


Gutted for you!! :boohoo:  Mate Sri Lanka, by all accounts, will be mint. 

Quote


Ok you may have a point. Looking forward to it now  :bounce:

is that better?! :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 08, 2010, 10:35:12 pm
>Any useful answers?

The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.


Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
 :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 08, 2010, 10:42:40 pm
Eh? Do you prefer an onshore wind or are you suggesting it never fuckin happens...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on June 11, 2010, 10:58:13 am
Anyone recommend an online surfshop?

And whats your thoughts on C-Skins wetsuits?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on June 11, 2010, 12:02:58 pm
Actually dont worry about it particularly. I was just talking to Dr Pinch who said you should go and try some on and pick one that fits and that you can afford. Sounds like good advice I thought.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on June 11, 2010, 12:26:46 pm
Secret Spot in Scarborough. They also own and run the shop at Cayton Bay and have an on-line store.

I'm buying a new suit tomorrow. Different brand this time (like rock boots the fit varies) so I'm going to Cayton to
try it on first then buy it if it fits. Support the local shops.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 11, 2010, 12:33:06 pm
Once you know what brand and what size fits, you can then buy on-line at a (possibly) cheaper price.  You can
normally get good deals on out of season suits (ie. buy your winter suit in summer and your summer suit in winter) and
by buying last years models..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 11, 2010, 12:54:26 pm
>Any useful answers?

The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.


Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
 :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious:

The only way to be 100% sure of a good wave down there, is to wait for a a full blown depression to roll up under ireland, with 8 foot swell and howling onshore, head to the north and your away. If anyone thinks they can predict 'good' surf at hells mouth and get it right then ill buy the :beer1: :beer1:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 11, 2010, 01:12:41 pm
Actually dont worry about it particularly. I was just talking to Dr Pinch who said you should go and try some on and pick one that fits and that you can afford. Sounds like good advice I thought.

It's definitely good advice. C-Skins are fairly good suits. Not best, but definitely not worst. Need to watch out for some right crap out there, though. I think it's Billabong that make terrible suits, and is that a Ripcurl you bought up here FD that leaked like a sieve.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 11, 2010, 01:41:03 pm
I would go xcel all the time for warmth, i have had 4 of there suits now and surf NE coast right through the winter in a 5/3. Only problem i have had is two zip failures where the zip has just come off in my hand. Both times they have replaced the zip FOC so i found there after sales good.

For flexibility i have found ripcurl the best as well as quicksilver.

Billabong are crap in my opinion, not had much joy with Gul either, although i havent tried there recent suits.

Not tried cskins, a mate had a 4/3 that he rated though.

As you have been told though its all in the fit. Billabong suits always leave a pocket sized gap around my balls that fills up with cold water. Not that pleasent as you can imagine.

It could just be the small size of my balls though especially after 2 hours in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 11, 2010, 01:47:38 pm
Ripcurl all the way for me.

I heard Decathlon are good for suits.... well they've got a good advertising strategy anyway

Spot TV - Maillot Tribord (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yzh8CYoZiEo#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 11, 2010, 04:02:20 pm
>Any useful answers?

The basics for Hells Mouth are a good South Westerly swell from a Biscay'ish low and E/NE winds with a pushing tide.


Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
 :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious:

The only way to be 100% sure of a good wave down there, is to wait for a a full blown depression to roll up under ireland, with 8 foot swell and howling onshore, head to the north and your away. If anyone thinks they can predict 'good' surf at hells mouth and get it right then ill buy the :beer1: :beer1:

Too right. Its getting to the point now where ive been in at porth oer more than anywhere else over there.
To be honest, its too far to really watch the conditions. I tend to just go cos its a bloody nice place and if theres waves theres waves. If not theres plenty more around to do.
And yes, its always fuckin onshore!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Willriseley on June 12, 2010, 12:27:48 am
C-Skins suits for me all the way, have both a winter wired  5mm and there summer wired 3mm which is ace. Have been surfing up here (crappy kent) in the 3mm since April with boots, shouldnt need my winter suit until oct/nov time when it gets a bit chilly.

Plus with the up and over neck closure on the wireds i get absolutelty no flushing, My winter suit i pretty much stay dry in on the chest panel
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 13, 2010, 10:50:57 pm

If anyone thinks they can predict 'good' surf at hells mouth and get it right then ill buy the :beer1: :beer1:
[/quote]

mmm....look forward to the beers then, thank you

West Coast in Abersoch sells C-Skins and has a v efficient online service

The new O'Neill suits are v v nice (won SIMA awards recently), Phill at Abersoch Watersports sells them

Excel v good (although I think may be pipped by the new O'Neill's) - available online from Offaxis

Blatant plug of mates businesses over....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 15, 2010, 01:03:40 pm
How are you mr lamacraft. I have not seen you in an age. Ben keeps me informed as to what your upto.

Hope life is still all good down there.

I am living way up north now in a land your all too familiar with, nice to be right by the sea.

I must try to get over your way with Ben sometime when there is a wave, would be great to catch up, or if you fancy a bit of East coast action your welcome anytime.

Cheers

Gav
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 15, 2010, 06:57:18 pm
Hey Gav,

Good to hear from you, things good here thanks - you're welcome anytime, not sure Ben would be interested though, he's gone all 'Noel' and only surfs tropical perfection these days!

You're in a beautiful part of the world, Sam and I keep talking about a trip over, we'll make it one day.

We've had a good winter/spring for surf really, how's it been over there?

Dave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 16, 2010, 10:59:34 am
Dave

Spring has been average but the winter was pretty epic. Cold but epic. We had pretty constant surf from december through to march. Usually 2-3 good days each week.

Loads of good waves and very quiet (or it was until the magazines started putting pics and articles about one particular wave in them). There are only a hand full of people surfing so i spend a lot of time in the water on my own which is great when its head high on the beach but a bit scary out on some of the slabs when they get overhead.

Will have to get you and mr Tye up here in the autumn for a guided tour.

gav
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 16, 2010, 07:09:03 pm
Sounds good to me Gav, if we start getting Ben in wetsuits now he may be used to it by then
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 16, 2010, 07:48:29 pm
the calling of the east.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 16, 2010, 10:24:12 pm
Flippin 'eck I turn my back for two days and now I'm some fairweather fly-by-night tropical water loving softie  :guilty:

Dave - Hang on here for too long and you'll be trading Easterlies for good conditions on the grit.. (which is probably why CLM has never had it good at The Mouth).

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 17, 2010, 11:02:22 am
Funny you should say that.....I'm leafing through the Lleyn guide right now sorting out this review of the Cilan restrictions, and had started thinking there must be something you could drag me up....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 17, 2010, 11:28:12 am
You got the '09 supplement (http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/guidebooks/downloads/LLYN_09.pdf) too Dave?

Getting a bit OT, but on Cilan Fisherman's Crawl  is a very good VS/ HVS. A great day out in high summer is the traverse/ swim from Trywn Cilan to Trwyn y Fulfran. There are some nice easy routes in Quarry 5 at Tyn Tywyn too. Is that wierd sport route still there, must visit with spanner if so!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 18, 2010, 06:15:00 pm
A great excursion, "this is where Crispin saw that big blue shark...."
SPLASH!
Arrrrrrrgh!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 18, 2010, 06:20:37 pm
Ha, I've never seen anyone get out of the water so quickly. You dived in, then came straight back out like a torpedo!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 21, 2010, 08:17:18 pm
Proposed footpath closure at Hells Mouth - a step closure to Fistralisation?

For those who surf at Hell's Mouth you may want to know there are moves afoot to close the footpath across the dunes from the stile i.e. where you would walk to go and surf and the corner/reef.  It seems this is part of a deal to extend the car park (with some noises about the introduction of car parking charges, enforcing the no overnight parking rule etc.), and create a new fenced in path along the rapidly eroding cliff top (mmmm.....).  Basically it seems like the landowners are happy to give land for the car park in exchange for closure of the existing footpath from the stile. There's a public meeting next Tuesday in Llanengan village hall (Y Canolfan) where we will find out more about the proposals.  The the local councillors are v keen, but it doesn't seem to be particularly  popular among many local and visiting beach users, surfers etc.  Would be interested in any views.

Dave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 22, 2010, 09:59:22 pm
Thanks for bringing this to our attention Dave. I love the path along the top of the dunes, I've been walking it since I was little and would be very sad to see it closed.  It's a unique walk that gives a unique perspective over the sea and bay on one side and views inland on the other. Yes it's a sensitive zone between land and sea but that is why it's important to keep access.  Walking along the tops as he skylarks start singing around dawn is a very special thing and I'd be very sad I'd it was taken away to make way for a bigger car park that caters for the overflow that only happens on busy weekends.

I just don't see the logic in the proposal.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 22, 2010, 10:41:45 pm
I'd also be very disappointed to lose this path. I appreciate the parking needs addressing but I don't see how this is relevant. Are they suggesting closing a footpath is a planning gain for locals? Seems bizarre.

Quote
and create a new fenced in path along the rapidly eroding cliff top (mmmm.....)

Noticed this happening on Cilan above Dorys too. Is it the only way landowners will accept the creation of the Lleyn coastal path? If so its a crap solution. Walking along a fenced corridor is not what these places are about.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on June 23, 2010, 12:43:24 pm
I'd be very sad if it was taken away to make way for a bigger car park that caters for the overflow that only happens on busy weekends.

I just don't see the logic in the proposal.
when you start having to pay 5 quid for 3 hrs parking, the logic will be as clear as crystal with probably 3% of revenue raised go to the land owner
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 23, 2010, 03:53:42 pm

when you start having to pay 5 quid for 3 hrs parking, the logic will be as clear as crystal with probably 3% of revenue raised go to the land owner
[/quote]

Its a weird one, can't see the car park being that much bigger than it is now (certainly not big enough for all the cars you get on a busy day) + my understanding is they can't put double-yellows on the road as its not a built up area (not sure if that's right), so parking on the road will always be the first choice if they introduce charges - which won't solve the 'problem'.  Have also heard that the council haven't got the cash to do the car park, and won't have for 6 years.  Increasingly it looks like this is really about closing the PRoW across the dunes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 23, 2010, 03:56:39 pm
on a lighter note.....awesome point action, sick barrels and a grumpy pony....

http://video.mpora.com/watch/CeKjnT5Ja/ (http://video.mpora.com/watch/CeKjnT5Ja/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 23, 2010, 05:26:06 pm
More gaping barrels and some nice lip action, oh and a nice bowl for the dry landers :dance1:

http://www.skipass.com/videos/my-toys.html (http://www.skipass.com/videos/my-toys.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 25, 2010, 10:35:15 am
It is pumping down here again!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 25, 2010, 11:34:24 am
Where is down here as i (being a sad chart obsessive who checks everywhere in the uk to make myself miserable) cant see anywhere in the UK that would come even close to being called pumping???
Close to being called rideable may be closer to the mark.

I guess your somewhere overseas.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 25, 2010, 11:44:19 am
Longboarder - 2ft = pumping :0)

Actually some nice deepish lows mid atlantic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 26, 2010, 10:51:58 am
It is pumping down here again!!!!
Where is down here as i (being a sad chart obsessive who checks everywhere in the uk to make myself miserable) cant see anywhere in the UK that would come even close to being called pumping???
Close to being called rideable may be closer to the mark.

I guess your somewhere overseas.

I believe Mr Idol is down yer in the SW and despite the look of the charts, there have been some good days over the last week.  In the right spots, at the right stage of tide, there have been some good sessions.

However, a proper pumping swell from said lows is arriving tonight and should last all day Sunday which coincides nicely with the arrival of billions of weekend warriors.  Yes, silly season has arrived and the lifeguards will be busy tomorrow. 

Last week the lifeguards actually called all the hire board crew (aka kooks) out of the water on low-tide Croyde 'we advise you take a look at the conditions and use your judgement...'.  Most took the advice, those that didn't got the  :spank: of their lives and then got out (or washed up onto the beach).  The ultimate maneuver I witnessed was the stand facing out to sea (with your long board sideways in front of you), to get sucked up the face (don't let go of your board), to back flip into reverse sand plant hold down.  Bloody funny but could've been serious all the same, she won't be ignoring lifeguards again anytime soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dr T on June 27, 2010, 12:56:18 pm
who wants to go to Sri Lanka??

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/10425220.stm (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/10425220.stm)

also talks about rock outcrops - if anyone goes how's about scoping for bouldering too
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 28, 2010, 04:16:24 pm
Spent two months there last summer... Coast has got nuffin... The cultural triangle has lots of snake infested rock outcrops...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 28, 2010, 06:34:48 pm
Things what I have learned on my holidays  :-\

1. Take the advice of the UKB surfing team and do press-ups and pop-ups before you go.  Me feckin arms nearly fell off a couple of times.

2. Never trust your mate when he says he's lending you an 8'6" board - it must be like willys, he overestimated by a foot, (so, not exactly like willys then?!)

3. Standing up is the beginning, not the end.

4. Thanks SAChris and Granticus - top advice.  Ended up at Woolacombe, pretty weedy waves apart from one day, (sunday last week), but fine for a beginner like me.

I'm hooked  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on June 28, 2010, 08:41:21 pm


3. Standing up is the beginning, not the end.



 :lol:  How true. I remember thinking I was a natural after standing up during my first lesson, only to later realise I'm crap and I wasn't surfing a board, it was a boat.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 28, 2010, 08:47:52 pm

3. Standing up is the beginning, not the end.


So true. Once you have got the standing up down, then it starts getting really good fun.

So board was 7'6"then? should be about right for a fit and healthy young male! I did a lot of my learning on a 8ish ft board, and it served me well for a long time.

Go home, regroup, head down again Sept Oct time. Crowds have gone home, air is cooler so water feels warmer, and you get the autumn / early winter swells start to pick up. And remember Hell's mouth and the N Yorkshire coast aren't that far away!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 28, 2010, 10:26:23 pm
Quote
I'm hooked   :thumbsup:

Nice one, stoked for you!  8) Standing up is the beginning and Chris is right it gets better from here on in.  As with climbing, the learning curve is steep but you will need lots of practice which'll also get you fitter.

Check those charts and get on it when the waves are good, avoid onshore winds and windswells.

Next stage for you, (once you can stand confidentally and straight line it in the whitewater), is taking off as the wave breaks, the 'bottom turn' and 'trimming' across the wave to stay in the green (or brown for you NE folk) water.  First time you do this and the wave stays open, will be a bigger buzz than standing up and will get you fully hooked.   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 29, 2010, 09:10:29 am
I remember thinking I was a natural after standing up during my first lesson, only to later realise I'm crap and I wasn't surfing a board, it was a boat.

Me too.  First surfed in 1976, I was eighteen on a booze fuelled holiday with mates in Newquay. Guy in the hire shop saw us coming and gave us the worlds biggest mal.  Stood up first go.  Didn't mean a damn thing...................  :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 29, 2010, 09:12:39 am

So board was 7'6"then? should be about right for a fit and healthy young male! I did a lot of my learning on a 8ish ft board, and it served me well for a long time.

Go home, regroup, head down again Sept Oct time. Crowds have gone home, air is cooler so water feels warmer, and you get the autumn / early winter swells start to pick up. And remember Hell's mouth and the N Yorkshire coast aren't that far away!

Fit and healthy young male!?  If only......

Already got September in the diary Chris...................  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 29, 2010, 09:16:30 am

Next stage for you, (once you can stand confidentally and straight line it in the whitewater), is taking off as the wave breaks, the 'bottom turn' and 'trimming' across the wave to stay in the green (or brown for you NE folk) water.  First time you do this and the wave stays open, will be a bigger buzz than standing up and will get you fully hooked.

Funny that. Had lessons 5 or 6 years ago and I remember the instructor getting all excited at one point, "Yeah, go John!" or something like that.  I asked him what had been so good about that run and he said, "You surfed blue water man!"

Trouble was, I was concentrating so hard on standing up, I hadn't noticed........  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 29, 2010, 09:22:28 am

Already got September in the diary Chris...................  :thumbsup:

Get down the local leisure centre and start the lenghts then! At first crawl crawl crawl, then work on doing lengths underwater, and sprints.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 29, 2010, 09:59:19 am

Already got September in the diary Chris...................  :thumbsup:

Get down the local leisure centre and start the lenghts then! At first crawl crawl crawl, then work on doing lengths underwater, and sprints.

Local Leisure centre?  Goodness me Christopher, I live in posh Sheffield, I'll be off down my private gym then.....  :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 30, 2010, 11:36:16 am
I'm over in Abersoch for a long weekend for Wakestock.  Looks like there'll be waves accompanied by onshore winds so I'll be in the water somewhere with Dave if anyone's around.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on June 30, 2010, 10:13:37 pm
Enjoy it while you can Ben, things at the Mouth are set to change if certain people get their way.  200-car car park on a SSSI, charges, double yellows, access to Morfa removed, fenced-in path along the eroding cliff top all on the cards....certain people are pretty dead set on this and not overly willing to consider alternative views.  One of the first comments from a member [of the local community] at last nights meeting was 'why are there so many English in-comers here' or something along those lines......

Anyway, enough of that....a chance of some over-knee waves at last!  :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 01, 2010, 11:35:31 am
Enjoy it while you can Ben, things at the Mouth are set to change if certain people get their way. 

this happens across the world over, even in some climbing venues where land owners seen financial benefits from having access to crags.
unless you are prepared to fight it  with 120% commitment, you may as well start getting used to the impending changes. surfing will still be there, it will only come down to whether you can be bothered with the inconvienience of it all.

but at least the numbers should reduce slightly.

I told you there would a carpark coming along the way... :whistle:

i am surprised that they are complaining about english folk coming down, as it adds 'foreign' income into the country. also allows the unemployed drug taking youth a steaady supply of cars to break into to steal shit to feed their habit.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 01, 2010, 12:43:07 pm
They've been complaining about the english forever, and with fair reason - the native culture gets pushed into a minority and is slowly lost. Of course, though, there isn't a sensible solution. You can't stop outsiders buying holiday homes or youngsters leaving for the city. Local poet RS Thomas spent his life bemoaning the decline of his culture and resenting the incomers, but in the end he blamed the natives just as much.

I suspect there is a fair bit of nationalism tied up in these access discussions. Despite the area's AONB status and regional drive for coastal paths etc, fair chunks of the coast still have little access. I'm sure this is partly to keep the english contained, and access limited for those 'in the know'. I doubt this protectionist attitude is unfamiliar to the other group of potential landowners, either - the kind of monied 'everything-has-a-price' english businessmen who the locals resent.

Just have to make sure the quiet majority of folk get to have their say, no doubt harder since the change in government.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 01, 2010, 12:58:42 pm
In my experiance the Lleyn would by the new Knoydart if it wasnt for English people.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 02, 2010, 11:51:22 am
Still pumping down here!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 02, 2010, 11:57:47 am
In my experiance the Lleyn would by the new Knoydart if it wasnt for English people.

What, no surf, full of midgies and boggy?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 02, 2010, 02:08:12 pm

What, no surf, full of midgies and boggy?
[/quote]

exactly
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 02:51:18 pm
What they need to do is lure all the mr johnny b16 7wat in the personailsed range rovers, ive got a yacht and a house by the sea, down to the beach one night and nuec the f'in lot.
Ive spent many a year autumn through spring in abersoch having quiet pints in the sun after a few waves, with very amenable locals, friendly and helpful, chatty.... then rise the summer months and oh my god, welcome to hell. The invasion of cunts. I feel so sorry for these local people down there, theyre famililes are forced out of their own village, local industries are now defunct, earnings from tourism are mainly taken by new businesses run by those who've moved in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 02, 2010, 03:36:49 pm
I don't think it's that Black 'n White Probes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 03:49:28 pm
From the outside it kind off does seem that it is? if im right most of the tourist development down there started through the boat yard, and this brought in the cheshire boat bridgade (for which some of my family were part off!) thus the expansion of the boat yard and town....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 02, 2010, 04:10:05 pm
Although, no i guess its not black n white actually, im sure theres more too it. Its sad all the same. Id still like to blow up a few 4x4s tho.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 02, 2010, 10:12:40 pm
I can vouch for most of the cheshire boat brigade being cunts. Most though, some are really sound. The best thing about the cunts is they're very easy to avoid -  never get further than the triangle bounded by The Warren, the Yacht club and Cae du. The rest of Lleyn gets away pretty much unscathed. Avoid the school holidays and its a cunt-free zone.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 09, 2010, 07:07:34 am
Crazy sessions... The last four weeks has been surfable every day, some classic sessions ant some of the best breaks in the South West,
Wrestles, Lynmouth, Sennen, Croyde.... All have come through with some great out of season swells(?)... something to do with a shifting Gulf Stream? I thinks it's going to be a long summer...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 09, 2010, 09:28:16 am
I thinks it's going to be a long summer...

Time for a trip south i think!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 10, 2010, 10:43:48 am
Has been pumping, unfortunately I will probably be out of the water for 6 weeks.  Fractured cheek bone in a wipe-out at Croyde on Thursday! :'(

I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol!   :spank:

Question: How come with all your classic spots up (oop) North East everyone goes ballistic if you so much has hint as to their location, where as similar spots down this way seem to be mentioned without folk batting an eye lid?

Is it that Northern folk are grumpy/ scarey/ hard and therefore everyone's too scared to talk? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 10, 2010, 11:06:32 am
because when they are firing, that crap down south doesn't come close to being as good.
plus northerners hate you soft as shite southerners (so i've been told  ;) )

the fractured cheek bone sounds painful, good luck on that.

how come you cant go in the water? is it close to the socket as well?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 10, 2010, 02:02:52 pm
Quote
everyone goes ballistic if you so much has hint as to their location

I can't get my head round this protectionism bullshit at all. Strange how surfing seems to cultivate all these petty egos.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 10, 2010, 02:06:04 pm
I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol!   :spank:

Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 11, 2010, 05:43:31 am
I can't get my head round this protectionism bullshit at all. Strange how surfing seems to cultivate all these petty egos.

imagine what Puttrell would do if he went out to Stanage nowdays....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on July 11, 2010, 09:47:05 am
I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol!   :spank:

Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?

well exactly. It's in every surfing guide and well known by anyone that surfs regularly in the SW. It is ridiculously busy down here at the moment though, last week I counted 52 people in at Gwithian on an onshore 1-2ft day and I was the sole boulderer..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 11, 2010, 11:23:46 am
Reply to Johnny Brown

It really is not petty egos, alot of these secret / little known spots work on a hand full of days a year, some of us organise and re organise our lives around these waves breaking, spend time learning when and how they work, tides, swell winds etc and so rightly get pissed off when Magic seaweed or other forums put up pics or details of these waves and when you do get there there are van loads of people already there.
A lot of the spots i surf cant take more than 6-8 people even if everyone is orderly so 2 vans of 4 turning up on top of the usual crowd reduces your wave count by 50-60% unless you start hassling, therfore making the session far less enjoyable than normal.

I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 11, 2010, 12:39:35 pm
Quote
how come you cant go in the water? is it close to the socket as well?
It's just the arch but quite a bad fracture.  Can't risk pushing it back in once the fracture is fixed, no plates no wires you see...

Quote
Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?
Don't think any locals had a say in this, imagine if it happened to your favourite 'secret' break, it was a secret once upon a time..

Quote
It is ridiculously busy down here at the moment though, last week I counted 52 people in at Gwithian
Lynmouth is getting ridiculous at times, particularly weekends and, as GME points out for his end of the country, there are far too many folk without the required skills, respect for locals or manners
turning up. 

C****n Bay,  S******s, C***s, R******* Bay, Sk*********e, S***h G***, B***k M*****s, H***** Reef..

Not swear words, fill the gaps, all 'secret' spots on the NE which are ALL in surf guides which I'm sure GME amongst others would appreciate people not naming.

On another tip, by all accounts Ireland is the place to surf, apparently you'll end up leaving the water with new friends rather than enemies over there.  Maybe we could all do with a little more of this attitude in our lives?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 11, 2010, 02:32:47 pm
Reply to Johnny Brown


I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.

You forgot to mention that in the process they use steel brushes to clean the holds and never clean their boots before trying the problem.

the other suitable comparison is you go to ravens tor after sceretly training your crack off for the last 18months dieting and all other anti social behaviour required to do Hubble. only to find some group of 5 blokes from Spain who all climb around 7a with their draws on the route all day on the best conditions for the year. and when you finally get a go on it at the end of the day, its covered in 1ft tick marks, and the holds are greasy as a chipper.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 11, 2010, 02:41:34 pm
granticus, theres a kneelo who surfs at MY LOCAL break, and he has had major facial surgery (as aresult of getting clobbered in the melon by a mal).
he wears a grilled gath helmut a good tony grieg impersonation. as stupid as it may look, atleast he gets to surf still.

maybe worth investigating, it will come in handy later on at places like Thruso East when its solid, indo, el quemao and chopes and probably lynmouth based on the crowds reported!!!


http://www.bossbi.com/boards/gath/gath.php (http://www.bossbi.com/boards/gath/gath.php)

get well soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 11, 2010, 07:06:26 pm
JB - From page 32 on this thread....

OK let's try and put a few things to bed.

There is localism in surfing.  "You can't surf here, get the f*ck out of the water, go home". BAD, fact, period.  No one likes that stuff, there's no room for it in the sport or the culture.  We see very little of it in the UK thankfully and on the rare occaisions it does happen it's usually just ego stroking and can just be ignored.

Then there's fustration in the water or behaviour that's frowned upon that isn't as obvious.  This does need acknowledging and exploring a little because what sometimes gets interpreted as 'localism' is actually a genuine and legitimate reaction to an infraction of some of the unwritten and not-so-obvious rules of surfing.  As illustration....

Getting in the way - Paddling out to a peak and sitting on the inside in front of the take off or further down the line.  This happens to everyone of course but there are repeat offenders.

Pulling out of a takeoff on a wave that's well makeable - A relative beginner paddles for a wave who's got priority and just doesn't go, usually happens on slightly bigger days when commitment is needed.  If you are paddling, go for it and don't pull back as soon as it looks scary.

Paddling to the peak out of turn - Another common mistake, especially made by the newly competent surfer who's mastered the art of catching most waves and turning.  Catch a wave, ride it well, all flushed with excitement and paddle enthusiastically straight out to the peak for the next one. Whoops.  Should've have sat on the inside a while and let the others in the pack take their waves.  Climbers who have turned to surfing are notorious for this behaviour I think because of an ingrained tick mentality.  We climbers have a bad rep in North Wales because of this...

These are all the equivalent of not cleaning boots, big tick marks, trying stuff that's way too hard, top roping hard sport routes on a tight rope and saying 'I did all the moves on x', dabs, standing on the matts close to the wall, using feet on a campus board.  All the stuff we laugh about on here and sometimes turn away sn**gering about at the crag.  That we then read about on the web when 'punters' talk about their visit to Malham, The Tor or the Plantation and say 'there were some locals who weren't very friendly'.

I've just re-read some of what I wrote and I probably sound like a right twat but I've sat in the water in North Wales, Yorkshire, Scotland, Indo, Spain and the Canaries with climbers turned surfers who have managed to rub people up without realising - me included when I first started out. 

 :)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 11, 2010, 08:03:19 pm
Yeah, I appreciate all that, its stuff like this I don't get:

Quote
I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.

What nonsense. The rock belongs to everyone, I don't resent crags being busy - ever. If I want a quiet day out, I go somewhere that requires a bit of effort to get too. Or by arranging my life around my sport, I can enjoy mint conditions alone if I want to. That's what local knowledge means to me - not secrets. I'm not convinced surfing is so different.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on July 11, 2010, 09:46:21 pm
That's what local knowledge means to me - not secrets. I'm not convinced surfing is so different.
exactly - if you're a local who has learnt the vagaries of a particular break, its banks, the tides, the rips, etc. then you'll be out there having a top session when magicseaweed gave it 1* and everyone else stayed at home. As with climbing, there are plenty of quiet spots if you're happy to walk 10-15mins from the car.

I do however agree with the point made above that people not respecting the unspoken rules can be interpreted as localism
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 01:21:07 pm
I am really fortunate to have been given the tour of spots around the SW and surf with "the local crew". Lynmouth has traffic, there was only four out, bang on the low... Overhead!!! The charts reflected the possibility... And the journey paid off, big time. The other breaks in the area toward Westward Ho were working... I went with PM... Respected big wave surfer and Devon local... He has tuned me to a few breaks that are "secret". Surfing in the UK is at boiling point with regards to traffic, and turning up to Wrestles with a ten foot tripple stringer, the vibe is on you... I am not intimidated by localism! I fucking killed that break... Fuck you lot... It's mine too!
Marocco had this problem... French guys telling Kamal to"fuck off", you can not surf here at Anchors... Kamal was born there... He thought it halarious. Again, we got stuck in and fucked them off!
I have been really lucky with some off the guys I have met... And lucky to have surfedamy breaks solo... Fuck Localism! Just rip!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 12, 2010, 01:25:44 pm
reply to Johnny Brown.

Its not nonsense at all.

I am not claiming  any rights to anything, rock or wave and have done exactly what you say you would do. ie walk further and seek out solitude somewhere else. I have done my research and walked the coast checking every little nook and cranny, paddling out on my own to spots i have never seen surfed not knowing if they have been surfed or are surfable.

The handfull of locals where i live are more than friendly, sharing our flasks and inviting people back to our houses for a brew on a freezing cold day in Feb.

The problem is not that some of these people then go back and tell one or two mates who come back with them next time. The problem is now that they go on the internet and tell a few thousand people so the next swell the line up now has 20 extra surfers. This does happen and happens all the time. Waves i have found and surfed on my own or with 2 or 3 mates for the last few years are now getting 15-20 people on them, all since photos appeared in magazines and on MSW. And these are the types of waves that have a take off area about 10 foot square so 10 is a lot of people. Iguess this number of people will seem like nothing compared with the masses of people in the water in devon and cornwall but to us its a crowd.

Before you know it suddenly the locals are a set of grumpy bastards who might not share there coffee with you. In a few years time this is now pissed off rather than grumpy etc etc.

The UK has some amazing waves but not very many so unlike with climbing the options of going to another wave of a similar quality are nil. The waves i surf are like stanage on a crisp Feb day and the options to go elsewhere as you suggest are like minus ten on a humid august one.

That's why we like to keep things secret.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 12, 2010, 01:26:57 pm
idol eyes



Please stay down south
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 12, 2010, 01:49:35 pm
gme, you aren't making a convincing argument at all, you just sound like a selfish dog in the manger. I earned my climbing knowledge the hard way too, but the youths coming through have the net. Its not going away, and I doubt surfing is going to get less popular. Snarling at people with the wrong accent doesn't strike me as a great way of dealing with it.

As a visiting surfer, how the fuck am I supposed to recognise a local anyway? Are they the miserable fuckers?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 01:51:50 pm
Oh, I really like surfing brown shite too! Ok... I will do as you say! Pm me you number and address. Wanker!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 02:01:51 pm
JB, don't even listen to this... The East Coast has some great breaks, and some good surfers, it also has a trend of Localism. I resent this... As it is usually issued by prats who want to enhance their surfing with some ego... It's a self issued level of authority! It stinks! Surfing for me is about getting away from idiots...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 12, 2010, 03:16:13 pm
Fuck me, now i am getting acused of being a wanker and yet i have not once been involved in any localism, deliberatly dropped in, snaked or growled at anyone.

As i said in my post i, and the other local surfers, are a really friendly bunch as anyone who has been up here will testify to. What i was trying to say that i dont think localism issues are down to egos at all but can see how people get pissed off.

I was also trying to say that its the behavior of the people who visit some of the out of the way places that can make very friendly locals not so friendly so i can understand how things can get a bit heated when it gets very crowded.

sorry i ever spoke.

And as for you mr King, be careful who you call a wanker, i lived in sheff for 15 years, know eactly who you are as you know me, and also know a lot of your new bunch of friends in the SW

My retort was based on the fact that you seemed to suggest you would basically ignore any "locals" and paddle out on your oil tanker (sounds like you would get two good boards out of that blank)to take any waves you wanted. pretty much like most beaches in the SW

Cant ever remember anyone saying, leave only footprints, take nothing but pictures then post them all over magic seaweed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 12, 2010, 03:26:02 pm
Quote
I was also trying to say that its the behavior of the people who visit some of the out of the way places

To be fair, you didn't actually say that. You said that the presence of a crowd alone was enough to piss off locals, and that it was understandable. Its not. They are there for the same reason as you, but you resent them because you assume they found the break on the net, and not by hard work. That might be considered normal in surfing, but it doesn't make it right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 04:02:44 pm
I do not know who you are... And don't care. Never tell me where I can and can not go! I am not the sort of person who obeys the likes of you. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 04:07:52 pm
Oh... And longboards have been around alot longer than short boards.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 12, 2010, 04:27:01 pm
i fucking hate chat rooms.

JB i did say trying!!! to say.

Idol eyes- i have never asked anyone to obey me, told anyone where they could surf or not surf or would i do so.

I have never been or intend to be " a local" in the way you are thinking of locals. but your attitude must make you very welcome where ever you go so have fun.

And as an aside the donkey was used as a mode of transport before the car but you dont see many people using them anymore.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 05:02:42 pm
I have surfed in a few different countries. In Norway, the locals are trying to gather intrest in surfing the Stavanger region. In Mexico people are totally tranquillo about visitors, the Aussie, Yank attitude is totally localised. I can appreciate the principals of all these, but adopt none... I belive that we all have a right to experience the true natural wonders of the Ocean, Rock and Snow enviroment. For example, I no longer climb in the peak because of crowds and noise levels, this is my decision based upon the fact that I had it to myself and a few mates for years, and wanted to leave it as I found it! My problem... My solution! Surfings the same... There are genuine crowd problems at my home breaks, I enjoy the fact that the slightest change in swell/wind direction will bring a sleeping reef to light for an hour or two. The moaning about "local" breaks being infiltrated by visitors... Brings me to the fact that some one who surfs a break in south Devon for years and complains about being local... Will then bear the right to go on a round the world ticket... Ripping all the great breaks and ignoring locals rights to their own break... Tell me this does not happen!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on July 12, 2010, 05:35:21 pm
and on another subject...cool 360 degree video of Teahupoo to play with...
http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink companysurfing.com/videos/immersive/ (http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink companysurfing.com/videos/immersive/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 12, 2010, 10:13:31 pm
Ps... Sorry! Really bad moon this morning... Didn't mean it! I ment to say simply... No body owns nature! And there are no ristrictions in these activities... Bustin down the door!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2010, 10:00:57 am
What a hoo ha about someone mentioning probaby the best know left hand point in the country on a climbing forum.

Localism sucks, but you can see where people are coming from with it. Luckily none of that up here, provided you don't want to try and surf Broch town beach on a good day, and your family haven't lived there for at least 3 generations :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 13, 2010, 10:17:06 am
 :o  didn't mean to start a SW vs. NE war of words...  Just trying to highlight that there seems to be a marked difference in attitude and localism from one place to another, whilst having a whinge about that lurvely Exmoor left being crowded out. 

Watched Dog Town and the Z-Boys last night, now those boys took localism to a whole other level.  Chucking rocks, lumps of metal and glass at visiting surfers, dishing out beatings etc. etc.  Hate to see things reach this level but it appears some peeps in the UK think it's OK to damage vehicles, threaten and use violence to protect 'their' waves.

I know if anyone paddles out at the places I surf regularly that I will be friendly towards them.  I hope I would experience the same wherever I turn up and surf.  Certainly had a good experience in Lanza which has a reputation for shitty locals and I hope the same would be the case in the NE (although I fear it may not!).  But I guess if you create enough horror stories and generate an atmosphere of intollerance it keeps the crowds away which is what people want.  Personally, I reckon I'll be heading to Ireland in preference to the NE because of my perception of the scene up there.  I'd rather surf good waves with friendly people than good waves with an ugly vibe in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2010, 10:33:33 am
Personally, I reckon I'll be heading to Ireland in preference to the NE because of my perception of the scene up there. 

Clearly their plan is working then! I would rather hit up the Hebs than Ireland.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on July 13, 2010, 11:24:32 am
Interesting!  As an absolutely surfing ingenue, thanks for the etiquette pointers.  I guess for learners like me it's the apparently obvious stuff like hanging around inside and getting in everybody's way that is the killer.  Generally it's not through choice that I end up in that position, I'm justed fucked and need a rest  :spank:

Note to self:  Must get fitter  :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 13, 2010, 11:35:30 am
Guess what... Two foot and super clean again. Magic seaweed is incorrect!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2010, 11:50:49 am
Magic seaweed is incorrect!

You sound surprised!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 13, 2010, 05:57:57 pm
Just seen foundry Rob @ Tolcarne... Fistral was perfect!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 13, 2010, 09:17:49 pm
Disclaimer: I'm not condoning or encouraging localism.

I think there's trouble in trying to compare climbing with surfing in that the resources available to the former are far greater and available through a much wider variety of conditions and as a result can tolerate larger numbers of participants without it feeling overcrowded.

There are several breaks I can think of that only work on say 30 (maybe 50 if I'm being really generous) days a year and usually only for a window of 4 hours either side of high or low tide. Many only work far less than that.  If we have a swell at a 10 second period with 7 waves a set we are going to see a mean of 5 to 7 waves every 7 to 12 minutes so a maximum of 30 to 35 waves an hour that could be ridden meaning an absolute maximum of 100 to 150 waves in a single day that could be surfed.  I think I'm being generous with numbers here without taking into account the limitations of daylight and water temperature.

Now on the Harmers Wood thread, JB quite rightly points out the benefits of leaving problems undocumented at certain bouldering crags in order to encourage and promote the value of an exploratory approach.  My personal opinion is that there are certain areas of the UK coastline that are comparable to entire crags with specific breaks the equivalent of individual problems or routes and as such should not be documented to the nth degree nor plastered over the internet.

We use the term Esoteric often in climbing to denote a particular crag that will yield its value and secrets to those prepared to put the effort in and sacrifice an easy fix for a reward.  Usually this takes time, experience and effort to discover and it's no coincidence that we use occult terminology to describe the place and experience.

From Wikipedia (yes I'm fully aware of the irony) "Esoteric knowledge, in the dictionary (non-scholarly) sense, is thus that which is available only to a narrow circle of "enlightened", "initiated", or specially educated people.[2] Esoteric items may be known as esoterica.[3] In contrast, exoteric knowledge is knowledge that is well-known or public, or perceived as informally canonic in society at large.

Finally, it can be noted that esotericism, beside its scholarly and dictionary definitions, can be used in a loose, popular sense: not in order to denote e.g. mystical knowledge or practice, but rather informally to mean any perception or knowledge that is for the advanced individual such as theoretical physics, or that pertains to the minutiae of a particular discipline, such as "esoteric" baseball statistics.
"

So in the same way that the specific problems of Harmers Wood, The Grinah Stones and other locations should remain undocumented to reward the initiates, so should specific breaks. Perhaps the issue is one of understanding scale relative to available resources and experience?

I have no problem with sections of the Welsh, Cornish, Scottish, English and Irish coastline being described as offering considerable possibilities of surf for those of an exploratory bent but I do have an issue with specific spots being documented to the finest detail including pictures/video and conditions reports being posted all over Magic Seaweed and other internet forums.

And there endeth the chin stroking...  :-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 14, 2010, 11:01:51 am
Quote
I have no problem with sections of the Welsh, Cornish, Scottish, English and Irish coastline being described as offering considerable possibilities of surf for those of an exploratory bent but I do have an issue with specific spots being documented to the finest detail including pictures/video and conditions reports being posted all over Magic Seaweed and other internet forums.

 :agree: Once upon a time Exmoor was in this category before folks started blabbin about it, interestingly in a recent MSW article about Luke Steadman's visit to Damian Hirst's palace in N Devon, there was a photo of the left from above and the spot wasn't named in fact a smoke screen was put up.  This is what the majority of ND surfer's would request and I don't think it's unreasonable to make people do some work to find a place. 

People are gonna start homing in on these N Wales spots soon enough if photos like this keep appearing on MSW.

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/172507.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 11:16:52 am
Let's face it, finding breaks somewhere like N Devon isn't exactly rocket science. On a big swell day just avoid the usual honeypots, and instead drive along the coastal road, stop at various points and look. Hey presto, what's that I can see between the trees? You don't even have to get out the car or walk any distance.

Lynmouth and many N Devon spots Like P****** W*** were known about years before the internet became a primary source of information. And with Googlemaps it's even easier.

Any exposed coastline is going to have waves of one sort or another, just takes a few hours to go out and find them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 11:20:00 am
Nice pic!

I'm not really qualified to comment on any of this, being deeply shit at surfing, but I don't see any problems with what FD suggests.

The problem is with the aggro I might encounter - I still don't get how anyone identifies a local to give them priority, or how a local spots who has found the break by fair means or internet. In reality these good intentions of maintaining esoterica just turn into cliquey bullshit - I really can't get my head round locals resenting new faces at a break, or threats issued on the net over mention of  name or posting of a photo. The modern age means info will get out anyway, but this attitude seems accepted as fine in surfing. As Chris said, a beach is a lot easier to spot on a map than a crag, the best you can hope is the herd will stick to the famous spots and the best 'secret' spots are far from a road.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 11:26:53 am
I personally think the reality of localism is nowhere near as bad as the reputation. You hear all these rumours of aggression and nasty shit going on, but in reality I have encountered very little of it. If you travel in a small group (3 at most) and don't all paddle out together, smile and are friendly, don't hang out in your little huddle, and are respectful of other people's wave count and share a bit of stoke, you are unlikely to come across any of this so called aggro, unless you come across the local nutjob.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 11:37:59 am
That's good to know. I tend to avoid other surfers, mainly because I'm embarrassingly shit and spend most of the time trapped inside, but also in case I piss them off, due to the aforementioned, and not being local enough. An aussie mate gave up surfing due to violent localism - wasn't even allowed on his local break - so maybe I've got a bad impression.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 14, 2010, 11:48:23 am
What Chris said.

JB - Don't try and avoid other surfers, 99% are absolutely fine.  Your mate in Aus is unlucky.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 14, 2010, 12:19:52 pm
I have only come across aggro once in the UK and it was very out of order, however the guy in question is just a dick who i think would look for a fight at church on a sunday morning, so hardly a typical surfer. So i think you are very unlikely to come across it here unless you act like a dick.

I have surfed every coast in the UK and ireland that has surf worth noting without issue. I am not saying i have been welcomed with open arms at every spot (and would not expect to) but i have not come across what you would call hostile locals.

I have also travelled a lot all over the world surfing and only encountered problems in Spain where in one instance (with FD actually) we were told that if we were not from Asturias to get the fuck out of the water. We didn't and nothing happened.

So the likely hood of you coming across any problems are pretty slim.

However i do find it weird that you think all surfers should be over the moon and delighted to see car loads of other surfers turning up at there quiet waves, waves that (following your advice) they have walked further and gone round new bends to find solitude away from the crowds.

As waves get busy the ethics of waiting your turn and politely offering waves to each other goes out of the way. Its a mathematical fact, as FD tried to prove, that the more people the less waves there are per person, so as it gets busy people will start to hassle to make sure they get there share. This is competition not localism.

Granaticus

The east coast is not localised at all if you play the game right. Van loads of pasties hitting up the media slut left hander every time it works have maybe soured the locals a bit, but not to an agressive level.

Anytime you want to come up i will be happy to show you around as i am sure you would keep the info to yourself and not post it all over MSW. Hopefully you could return the favour when i am occasionally down your end of the country.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 12:31:04 pm
Your mate in Aus is unlucky.

And without knowing your mate, you have wonder if behind every story lies a story.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 12:36:33 pm
Quote
However i do find it weird that you think all surfers should be over the moon and delighted to see car loads of other surfers turning up at there quiet waves

You don't need to be delighted, just don't be miserable. If you were surly to me at the Plantation I'd assume you were a wanker - no matter how busy it was. I can't see a difference here. And I'd never be so arrogant as to call somewhere 'mine', even though even Ron says it is.

Quote
without knowing your mate

One of the nicest guys I've ever met.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 14, 2010, 12:56:03 pm
But if the fact that the number of people at stanage was directly impacting on how much fun you were having i cant believe that you would not be pissed off.

If not then you are lucky to be able to keep a happy mind set through anything, as i certainly cant.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 14, 2010, 12:57:46 pm
But if the fact that the number of people at stanage was directly impacting on how much fun you were having i cant believe that you would not be pissed off.

If not then you are lucky to be able to keep a happy mind set through anything, as i certainly cant.

Answered further above, he'd not be pissed off, but would instead go somewhere else and return to Stanage at a time when its quiet.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 01:02:20 pm
Actually I'm pretty well noted as a misery. But one thing that does not, and will not ever, get me down is meeting people enjoying the outdoors for the same reasons that I am. Its such a life-enriching thing it genuinely makes me happy to see folk doing it. You've had your chance on these breaks in the past, isn't it a bit unfair to resent others doing the same?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 01:05:50 pm
One of the nicest guys I've ever met.

I'm sure he is, but anyone can be a victim of circumstance.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 14, 2010, 01:12:06 pm
quote.. People are gonna start homing in on these N Wales spots soon enough if photos like this keep appearing on MSW.

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/172507.jpg)
[/quote]


If thats where i think it is, it doesnt matter as it only looks like that once a year anyway.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 14, 2010, 01:12:25 pm
Quote
The east coast is not localised at all if you play the game right. Van loads of pasties hitting up the media slut left hander every time it works have maybe soured the locals a bit, but not to an agressive level.

Anytime you want to come up i will be happy to show you around as i am sure you would keep the info to yourself and not post it all over MSW. Hopefully you could return the favour when i am occasionally down your end of the country.
:great: No troublems, would happily return the favour and happy to show any folk around.

It can be disheartening to turn up somewhere and find it swarming with people but I guess it makes it more special when you get there and find it firing & empty. 

JB don't worry too much about the aggro you might encounter.  I began surfing regularly 6 years ago when I moved SW.  I have surfed/paddled out alone for the majority of that time and I was a complete at utter KOOK at the beginning.  Over these years I have been shouted at, stared down and made a lot of stupid mistakes which was all part of the learning experience.  Sometimes eating a little humble pie and realising what a twat you're being is healthy.  So 6 years down the line, I sometimes paddle out with a friend or 2 and after a lot of persistence, I don't drop in on people deliberately or by accident, I don't ditch my board when a wall of white water is coming at me, I don't snake, I know a lot friends in the water (some of whom gave me grief when I started out), I am respected by them, I am competetive in the water and I can surf to a reasonable standard.  I love to surf, I hate to see any hostility on the land or in the sea. 

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 14, 2010, 01:17:00 pm
Quote
anyone can be a victim of circumstance.

Hmmm, not sure I follow you there.

Anyway, if nothing else I've got a much better understanding of localism from this (as a seperate issue form behaviour in the water). Bullshit or not, its obviously pretty deeply rooted in surfing's culture.

Good to see the guy who posted that pic has the signature 'fuck localism, teach respect'. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 14, 2010, 01:52:42 pm
usually on most matters like this i'd be taking the piss and saying shit to wind people up.

however, not this time.

after 31 years of surfing, i believe that there is a gross mis understanding of localism, which some people have already hinted at earlier in thread.

 i have realised the surfing community and any surf session can be broken down into differing types of surfers and attitudes.

at it is here where the term localism gets used as a term to cover any form of negative behaviour of surfing.

guys who surf a break regularly tend to regard themselves as locals to the break or call themselves regulars, most of which generally dont live locally. locals / regulars usually know every one in the line up by first name and they know their name. these guys generally get a lion share of the sets, especially on the reef/point breaks. within the regulars/ locals there is unwritten pecking order on who gets the waves.

now when other surfers come and surf these breaks obviously they get put at the bottom of that pecking order. as the crowd builds, less waves get ridden and as a result people get pissed off. and thats when the rules of ettiquete get bend or thrown aside.
those at out of the top of the pecking order start getting annoyed, this can be regulars and also non regulars.
throw in a couple of visiting surfers who are of a good standard, which generally come in two forms;
1. those whho realise they are on a trip and time is limited, so they go straight to the best take spot and hassle and get wave after wave. that fat shit from wales who makes boards is notorious for this.
2. then we have those who paddle to the fringe of the peak / pack and gauge the crwod standard  / vibe and slowly ease their wave count and quality. generally show casing their talent when some one goes over the falls and they whip around and free fall efortlessly into a barrel or come off the bottom and go beyond vertical off the top. point proven, and then they get given some freindly hoots from all and sundry.

now we have instant access to interent and people now feel like spreading the stoke or gloating their stoke by putting images / videos of the waves they have had. this unfortunately is how it will be from now on. rightly or wrongly we will just have to get used to it.


people nows days want to be spoon fed with information. hance the popularity and success of MSW and other surf sites. add to this the speed of our lifestyles and rapidly depletetin free time, when we want to surf we want good waves and we'll travell to get them. the UK is a very small place, and driving from one side to the other can be done overnight.

dissapointment is the cause for negative behviour in the surf, not localism


people get angry, annoyed, nasty, rude in the water because the surf is panning out as they liked. and its that disspointment that causes the problem. we want / expect too much from our surf now days (as with everything else). i'll be honest and say i used to be very bad at this. as FD and GME will agree.

but when i find the session going pear shaped i do three things which nowdays makes me enjoy the session far more and washes away the dissapointment and effects of the shit behaviour of others.
these are;
1. one good turn will consitute a good surf
2. when you're getting pissed off, be grateful that you managed to get in. because there is atleast 100 other people who have missed out
3. smile and say hello to evryone, hoot people on sets / good turns and always offer beginners advise otr a friendly word of encouragement. we were all there once.



as a tip from an old shit like me, if your not in sync with the oceans. look at your watch and think that you have just got out. note the time, and you will get a wave within the next 5 - 10mins. by resetting the time mentally the previous 20 -30mins that felt like hours will be regarded as another session


if you do these 3 things in every session you'll get more out of your surfing without having done much.

if people are putting images on the internet, fuckem, dont let it get to you. theres nothing you can do about, just do the 3 things above and you'll have a great session.

no one will drop in you or snake you if your nice in the water.

being pissed off / dissapointed is not localism.


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 02:56:57 pm
that fat shit from wales who makes boards.

LOL. If you carry on posting sensible stuff like this you may get dangerously close to some more wad points.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 14, 2010, 03:25:18 pm
may i add that it is hard to ignore fuckwits when things aren't going as you planned.

and then there are some people in the water  who really do need an enema of the brain
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 14, 2010, 04:24:48 pm
Israeli surfers in Sri Lanka...
Total agro????
It's totally going of is nut down here!!!
Massive swell window!
All the so called secret spots up north Devon way are going to be on?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 14, 2010, 04:29:19 pm
Careful what you say IE. There must be all of a dozen surfers who regularly read this forum, of which maybe 3 can get to N Devon Coast, you being one of them. So you could drastically reduce your wave count by posting that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 14, 2010, 07:30:03 pm
Sad init!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 14, 2010, 09:04:53 pm
Lovely stuff Oldfella... I guess we all do spit the dummy a little when the regular's pecking order gets disrupted :guilty:

Quote
All the so called secret spots up north Devon way are going to be on?

There'll be one less pissed off North Devoner in the water this week, so I say go wild  :thumbsup:

Charts are off the dial, I was thinking some particular North Kernow breaks somewhere between Boscastle and Widemouth would be good.  Wind is looking a bit too SW for some spots but other nooks and crannies will be splendid.  I will be in the O R tommorow morning and then mostly following the live webcast from J-Bay.  Looking forward to getting back on it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 14, 2010, 09:26:21 pm
Flat with a chance of a ripple over here. Not fussed at the minute as summer is usually shite.
Off to Ireland with family in two weeks and might get down sw before then as I have meetings in Wiltshire.
You southern boys seem to e having a good year. It was our turn last summer.
Funny hanging around with climbers still   Last year was constant moaning about all the rain but I was as happy as a pig in shit as every low brought swell.
This year seems like it could be a vintage climbing summer but flat east coast. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 15, 2010, 07:55:33 am
want to see some bullshit waves.
for all you natural footers, start belting off over perfect 4ft J Bay.
http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay10//live/ (http://www.billabongpro.com/jbay10//live/)

Yeeewwwwwwwww  :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 15, 2010, 09:15:53 am
Already the best comp this year, perfect perfect righthanders, best surfers in the world.

What more could anyone want.

Other than it to be going the other way obviously.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 09:24:57 am
goofy wierdos.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 15, 2010, 10:56:15 am
Already the best comp this year, perfect perfect righthanders, best surfers in the world.

What more could anyone want.

Other than it to be going the other way obviously.

that is G Land my friend, and we'll be there next year  :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: JamesD on July 15, 2010, 11:36:35 am
This thread has inspired me to give surfing a go, after thinking about it for many years, booking up shortly at the quiksilver surf school for a lesson and a days gear hire with the missus and friends in 2 weeks, woohoo  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 11:56:15 am
Get in the pool and do some lengths, now!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: JamesD on July 15, 2010, 12:10:17 pm
Haha I just spent 12 days in Croatia swimming every single day for like 3/4 hours plus, but don't worry...i'm gonna start working on my front crawl sprints and get a shedload of lengths in between now and then, I want to get the most out of the day ;D
Really excited, i've skated a bit in the past, am a really experienced snowboarder, and can skimboard a bit, so i'm hoping these things will help with the balance etc.
Actually I might take the skimboard for a laugh later on lol....if I can still stand/walk/summon up the energy afterwards.
I saw a zap skimboard demo once out in portugal, it was amaaaaaaaaaaazing, Steve boomhower is ridiculous.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 12:22:59 pm
boomhower is ridiculous.

I know, you can't understand a word he says.

(http://www.wvah.com/programs/kingofthehill/boomhauer.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 03:53:43 pm
Does this pic make anyone else feel slightly ill?

http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 15, 2010, 03:55:05 pm
Yikes. Live stream of the comp has just died here. Is it working elsewhere?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 15, 2010, 03:58:44 pm
Don't think so, mate just email me bitching about the same problem.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 15, 2010, 05:36:43 pm
Face is fixed and I can now chew, albeit with a little pain!! :thumbsup:
I am now sporting a sort of semi-undercut hairstyle on one side with half a side burn (the lower half) remaining, could catch on? :thumbsup: (Why they didn't shave the whole lot off I don't know)
Can I watch the pros ripping it up in perfect J-Bay whilst I recover, can I fook :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: JamesD on July 15, 2010, 05:39:33 pm
Does this pic make anyone else feel slightly ill?

http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/)

Urgh, I really regret clicking through, that's a gnarly wound.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 15, 2010, 05:46:17 pm
Does this pic make anyone else feel slightly ill?

http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Parko-Out-of-J-Bay--Content/2559/)

Urgh, I really regret clicking through, that's a gnarly wound.

Actually made me feel a little better about my little mishap last week, very similar circumstances and reassuring for my confidence to see that it can happen to the best. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 15, 2010, 08:19:09 pm
Double overhead... Offshore... Krankin!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lund on July 19, 2010, 09:32:24 pm
No idea if this has been posted on here before.  Had a quick look, but couldn't find any evidence.

Verizon Wireless Wipeout of the Year Nominees - Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hszs-3xZ5lQ&feature=player_embedded#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 19, 2010, 10:46:48 pm
 :spank:

Seen it before Lund.. but don't think anyone posted here.  Most entertaining is the last one, 1st 2 at 'Jaws' look brutal but at least they both get the opportunity to take a gasp of air on the way over the falls.  Whoever said 'the safest place is in barrel' may have to reconsider, probably better than taking any of those lips on the head though...

Weather sucks, surf is up, I think I'm gonna have to get back in the water tommorow.   ;) 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on July 20, 2010, 09:58:39 am
Ouch.  The Mavericks footage scares the bejesus out of me. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2010, 10:18:47 am
I think that proves you are sane.

Some good stories around the wave, esp Jeff Clark surfing it alone for 15 years http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mavericks_(location) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mavericks_(location))
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 20, 2010, 10:24:47 am
Ouch.  The Mavericks footage scares the bejesus out of me.

Check out Powers of Three (https://www.relentlessenergy.com/films/view/powers-of-three) about three mates surfing some of the huge waves on the West coast of Eire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on July 20, 2010, 10:37:24 am
Ouch.  The Mavericks footage scares the bejesus out of me.

Check out Powers of Three (https://www.relentlessenergy.com/films/view/powers-of-three) about three mates surfing some of the huge waves on the West coast of Eire.

Seen it slackers  :thumbsup:  one of my fav surf films.  Really engaging characters and some insane surfing  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 20, 2010, 12:13:08 pm
Another two days of perfect surf down here... Think we have got a week off after noon tomorrow! It's been an unbeliveable summer... I think Autumn is going to be epic.
Surfed a secret wedge mid tide on the push yesterday... Total shack attack! Knee paddleing, and popping up as I cross step... And getting these insane air drops directly into the pocket, and fully getting barrelled...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 20, 2010, 12:14:39 pm
....yeeeeeeooooow!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 20, 2010, 12:19:55 pm
Surfed a secret wedge mid tide on the push yesterday...

Share the knowledge then  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 20, 2010, 09:46:48 pm
It's between Woolacoombe and Sennen...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 21, 2010, 09:49:20 pm
It's between Woolacoombe and Sennen...

Yeah.. I think I know the spot. :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 21, 2010, 10:36:14 pm
Just off to Thurso area for 4 days. Anyone got any tips on good places other than the obvious. Any must see's up there. Climbing?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 22, 2010, 08:54:31 am
Just stick to the main spots in the guide. If you dont want to just use your nose. Watch what you are doing though as its a BIG place up there with a BIG sea BIG rips and BIG seals. Off the beaten track you will be on your own.

Looks like a bit of swell for you but to much west in it to get the main event working. head west to the beaches as they pick up more swell.

For camping i usually stop at torrisdale if out west, posably the best camping spot on the planet. Or point of ness. I always try to avoid stopping in the yard at TE as its a shit tip and hardly what you drive up there for.

Skinadis nightclub will put a smile on your face. Smoked salmon from the fishmongers at the end of the pier in thurso is to die for.
Mussels of the rocks at low tide at torrisdale plus a sea trout from the river, pretty easy to catch on a spinning rod and fishing is free from the sea to the first bridge upriver on any of the rivers.


No climbing up there that i have seen but some further west and south. A bit of sports climbing on conglomerate i believe around Tain, but i dont know the details.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 22, 2010, 08:58:24 am
Thanks for that. Some good knowledge. How shallow is TE, its been a while since i surfed regularly.  :'( MS is predicting overhead for Sunday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2010, 09:11:25 am
If you don't fancy TE there are loads of great beachies along that coast, culminating in the beatiful one with the long walk. Are planning A9 there and back?

There is some great trad climbing off the A9 at Latheronwheel and Mid Clyth, although Mid Clyth is best avoided if there is a big sea.

If you head down the west coast on the way back you can't throw a stick without hitting a good crag, Sheigra, Inverpolly, Reiff, Stac Pollaidh, etc.

Have a look in the UKC database, SMC Nothern Highland North, or the Gary Latter Guide.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 22, 2010, 09:16:55 am
Reiff

I wasn't that moved by Reiff i have to say. Mainly be riding and surfing, so not too much of an issue. May go over to the beautiful place with the long walk.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 22, 2010, 09:22:58 am
When its big its fine and not too shallow. When its small its shallow, plenty of split heads on the inside. I good friend of mine ended up over night with concussion in wick hospital on a two foot day, still has the scars to prove it.

MSW will be wrong, if your specifically going for TE then re plan your trip, the swell is too west. It may just be surfable on one day but very small.

Dispite what everyone thinks the north coast is very fickle, its rare to get TE looking like the pictures you see. I go up there 2-4 times a year at short notice following the charts and still sometimes only get TE good for a few hours out of 4 days. To get it on 3-4 days in a row you need a lot of luck.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2010, 09:26:59 am
Each to their own. Which areas did you climb at?

If you are mainly surfing and riding, why did you ask about climbing? 4 days is not very long.

For riding, you will go past Learnie Red Rocks, with some super rocky black circuits, and Golspie, take your strongest set of thighs. You will go pretty close to Woftrax at Laggan too.

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W (http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W)

http://www.highlandwildcat.com/ (http://www.highlandwildcat.com/)

http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html (http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 22, 2010, 09:30:17 am
Each to their own. Which areas did you climb at?

If you are mainly surfing and riding, why did you ask about climbing? 4 days is not very long.

For riding, you will go past Learnie Red Rocks, with some super rocky black circuits, and Golspie, take your strongest set of thighs. You will go pretty close to Woftrax at Laggan too.

http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W (http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W)

http://www.highlandwildcat.com/ (http://www.highlandwildcat.com/)

http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html (http://www.basecampmtb.com/trails.html)

Well, we are taking the gear in case surf is poor. 4 days riding solid will hurt, so be nice to break it up. Will call in at one of trail centres on way back to break up journey.
Cheers for all info.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2010, 09:33:02 am
There was alittle topo kicking around the net for a while of a bouldering spot near thurso, but can't find it now.

Vertical walls on crimpy sandstone. Will keep looking I'm sure it's out there. Might have a printout at home with an URL on it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 22, 2010, 10:12:49 am
MS is predicting overhead for Sunday.

Waist high onshore mush then?  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2010, 02:08:45 pm
Looking at the forecast, i would head straight to the place with the walk (or cycle it if you have a shoulder strap on your board bag). Stick a pair of rock shoes in for immaculate wave washed Gneiss on a sandy beach. Or maybe Oldshoremore (just for a look) and possibly Balnakiel Bay (might be a bit too much W for that too).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 11:07:30 am
Hi guys, looking at ordering my first custom board from JP surfboards of swansea, has anyone had (or heard about) any good/bad experiences of them?

cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 11:55:53 am
GME has loads and knows him well.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 12:01:44 pm
GME has loads and knows him well.

Thanks. If he's got "loads" perhaps he'd like to donate one?  :P

JP has been helpful with questions/advice but always good to hear first hand experiences.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on July 23, 2010, 12:51:29 pm
Not to distract from that (the ordering of surfboards from JP thingy of swansea - in which I am also interested, but it will be some years I suspect), but has anyone ever been to Islay?

She and I are thinking about going in September.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2010, 12:57:18 pm
Not been but heard great things. Essential if you are into your single malts.

Some nice looking beaches http://www.islayinfo.com/beaches_on_islay.html (http://www.islayinfo.com/beaches_on_islay.html)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 23, 2010, 01:12:56 pm
now then Chris 05, looking at a custom stick  :-\

here's some pointers for going for a custom board;

1. go into JP shop and look at the boards that are very similar to the board you want him to shape. look at the quality of workmanship (glassing, the foam where the board is clear. the planing of the balnk should not have jagged edges

2. also look at other shapers such as simmons et al,  look at boards they have made similar / same to the type you seek.

3. look at other surfers boards in the water / on the beach and ask them questions about the board. be specific, dont just ask 'how's that board go? most surfers will happily talk about their boards.

4. look at surfers boards who are of a similar standard to you. be honest with your self assessment to. better to surf better with a vauxhall than look like a kook in a maclaren. if you get my drift. remember you turn up with a slick board and people will be expecting some flairing, if you dont deliver, you can forget about people offering you a wave any time soon.

5.also where is the board going to be surfed? ie, no point asking JP to shape you a board for Hawaii and vice versa no point asking Darren Handley to shape you a board for putsbourgh.



i assume you know what to look for since you are ordering a custom.
without sounding like a know it all prick, if you dont know exactly what you what from a board, i'd reccomend you get one off the shelf that you like.


the joys of a board off the shelf are its ready to wax and go straight away, and you can negoiate a price.
if you see one in the shop you like do a bit of investigating, see how long it has been there for. the longer its been there, the more chance you can barter.
look for dust over it.
pick it up and see if there is a dust imprint around where the tail was. the bigger the imprint, the longer its been there.

ask around, to see if your mates, other surfers have noted how long its been in the shop.


you are about to spend a decent wedge of cash, especially as JP charges premium rates now days  :shrug:  make sure you do your homework before ordering.

good luck and happy hunting. let us know how you go. Caveat Emptor "let the buyer beware"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 23, 2010, 01:19:43 pm
I have had quite a few boards from JP(FD is correct a i have 6 in my rack at the minute). I have always liked the personal touch of getting a board from a shaper and now always get my boards from John or from Sam Egan if i am in Australia.

I cant fault his boards at all and would recommend that if you can go to his shop and talk to him. He carrys loads of stock boards if you dont want to go custom and has a try before you buy policy, that is you can take a board from him for a few weeks to try it, if you dont like it bring it back and you can swap it or return it. Dont know of any shops that will do that for you.

Regarding my boards, i am having a bit of a clear out (only to get new ones)and have 2 6`3"s and a 6`10" to get rid of. All JPs and a few years old. None are beginners boards however. If you, or anyone is interested i will post them up with full specs.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 01:24:05 pm
remember you turn up with a slick board and people will be expecting some flairing,

I was dazzled by the blood red paint job & sleek pintailed curves of my 7'0 Aloha mini-gun in the shop all those years ago.  You can feel the eyes on you when walking & paddling out :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2010, 01:31:12 pm
If this is the type f thing you are after, make this guy an offer

http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23166 (http://magicseaweed.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23166)

(emphasis on the IF - see notes from oldfella above).

Rather pay full whack for the ideal board for you than get a bargain that is unsuitable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 01:32:12 pm
Thanks for the info oldfella, very useful.  :thumbsup:

I dont know a great deal about surfboard design but decided on a custom as it would allow me to get something better suited to me. Most boards off the shelf are on the thin side (fish etc excluded), i'm after something shorter but with plenty of buoyancy to suit my kook surfing style! I couldn't find what I wanted off the shelf.

Jp do have the option of borrowing a board for a couple of weeks which I'm hoping to make use of (although it will be in August when there probably wont be any waves!). I dont surf very often but want something which will work ok in a variety of conditions (beach break slop and good waves in indo and morocco) - I realise that this is basically impossible but I havent been that unhappy with my current board for all these waves so I'm hoping a model like JP's Hybrid will fit the bill.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 01:39:00 pm
gme: cheers. the try before you buy sounds good. I think your boards may be a bit to "performance oriented" for me, not quite a beginner but want something with a bit of float, probably about 19 3/4'' x 2 1/2'' or 2 5/8'' !

S.A Chris: thanks, good spot. Unfortuantely thats bigger than my current board, looking for one around the 6'4 mark.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 01:49:40 pm
Did he not have any of these on the shelf?

http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm (http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm)

6'4 x 20.5 x 2 1/2

I ride an almost identical template but it's Bunty
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 02:05:24 pm
Did he not have any of these on the shelf?

http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm (http://www.jpsurfboards.co.uk/quadfin_surfboards.htm)

6'4 x 20.5 x 2 1/2

I ride an almost identical template but it's Bunty

Haven't been to the shop yet. I thought this type of board might be great for the surf here but less good abroad in good waves? Did you use it on your Banyak trip? I can see I need to get down there and give a few a try. Whats the betting there isn't a ripple when I head down? ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 23, 2010, 02:09:33 pm
my other 2 pence worth,

by the sounds of it.
i reckon you'd be better of with the the good old round square tail. 6'4 -6'6 x 19 wide x 2-1/2 thick. maybe with FCS if you can if you plan to travel. however if youre looking at indo / morrocco, you be better off getting a 2nd board anyway, which i would get a board tailored for those waves. one of GME's 6'10s would be ideal.

you can get a good round square tail like that i mentioned above 2nd hand or off the shelf.
i personally dont buy into these hybrid mongrel boards. just stick with a convential board, get to know it inside and out. once yo can get that board to do everything you want it to do, then you are ready and capable to appreciate the variations in surf board design.

the standard tri fin (thruster) round square is standard because it fucking works in everything.

i know and see some many just above begginerrs surf all weird shit thinking they surf like derryk hind or rasta.
all it does it screw your basic tecniques.

it is like learning to climb using hob nailed boots because you see a few videos of ondra climbing in ceause with this shit on his feet, and think fuck thats cool. they must work!!

PS, dont be afraid of thin rails, the key thing is width in the right areas, bigg rails catch more water, and it want be long before you are burying the liitle bastards hard on a turn. rather than having them catch and buck you off and do the ball slap on the open face. i know GME knows the sensation, anyone else??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 02:29:12 pm
Did you use it on your Banyak trip?

Yeah it goes great in good waves.   On the bigger days I have a 6'9 rounded pin with a 2+1 setup.

Oldfella's on the money with his advice though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 23, 2010, 02:38:17 pm
arent i always???? shit, you dont get 10 negative points for talking drivell.......
as they say truth hurts sometimes......


on a positive note, GME and yours truly will be in G land next April / May for some proper goofy footer pr0n.
7 days or maybe more if Ms E will allow a 9 day stay. the extra days will reduce the effects of jetlag on  GME when he gets back home..

maybe he better hang on to those 6'3 & 6'10 round pins.


5 days of head and half to double g land then to finsh with double to triple o head for the climatic finish. 
then a night in kuta before we part ways  :pissed:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 23, 2010, 02:45:55 pm
One of my boards i am getting rid of is 6`3" x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2. JP squash. Not a lot of rocker and a good bit of weight under your chest for paddling and (as pointed out by oldfella) not thick around the edges . I got it shaped 4 years ago as my slop board and it goes great in usual british conditions. I am 78-80Kg and six one so not small and its a great board for me in anything from knee to head high waves. Its in pretty good nick with a few dings but all fixed up. Should be perfect for you.

I am only getting rid to make space as i now have a 6`0" and 5`9" i ride on small days.

You can have it for 100.00 in deck pad and then get your self a good travel board. Oldfella is right re having different boards for travelling as a lot of UK style boards just dont work in better waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 03:27:54 pm
One of my boards i am getting rid of is 6`3" x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2. JP squash. Not a lot of rocker and a good bit of weight under your chest for paddling and (as pointed out by oldfella) not thick around the edges . I got it shaped 4 years ago as my slop board and it goes great in usual british conditions. I am 78-80Kg and six one so not small and its a great board for me in anything from knee to head high waves. Its in pretty good nick with a few dings but all fixed up. Should be perfect for you.

I am only getting rid to make space as i now have a 6`0" and 5`9" i ride on small days.

You can have it for 100.00 in deck pad and then get your self a good travel board. Oldfella is right re having different boards for travelling as a lot of UK style boards just dont work in better waves.

That sounds really interesting. Do you have any pictures? I'm about 65 kg and 5'8 but have been riding a 6'10 x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2 so should work ok. Where are you for picking it up?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 03:36:42 pm
the extra days will reduce the effects of jetlag on  GME when he gets back home..

then a night in kuta before we part ways  :pissed:

Not sure a night in kuta will help with the jetlag, you may not get home after that.

cheers again oldfella, you cant always be this helpful if you have that many punter points? ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 03:56:13 pm
Other board members sometimes don't get his sense of humour...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 23, 2010, 04:10:25 pm
I am in the NE but in sheff every week. Will take a pic over the weekend and get it to you if I can work out how to do that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 04:15:19 pm
I am 78-80Kg ..

  :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 23, 2010, 05:46:24 pm
I am in the NE but in sheff every week. Will take a pic over the weekend and get it to you if I can work out how to do that.

That would be great. I'm away at a conference from sunday until wednesday, perhaps you could give me first refusal once i'm back?!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on July 23, 2010, 06:38:50 pm
I am 78-80Kg

lost weight since i saw you last then gav....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 23, 2010, 07:54:43 pm
Cheeky bastards. I was 78 kg flat last night on the scales. My love handles were coming on nicely since becoming a surfer. Now I am bouldering a fair bit I have realised that they don't really help so have dropped half a stone.
Anyway FD you hit the big 40 soon this is the point in your life where everything starts growing where you don't want it to so with your taste for fine wines and kebabs your fucked.
And dave I can't quite remember but suspect the spreading years are already upon you.

Re the board chris 05. Will bring it down to sheff this week but only there until wed. Then off to Ireland for a week. Back in sheff around the 11th so can hook up then. No hurry as only selling them word of mouth at the minute.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 23, 2010, 08:29:42 pm
 ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on July 23, 2010, 11:02:06 pm
I was 78 kg flat last night on the scales. My love handles were coming on nicely since becoming a surfer. Now I am bouldering a fair bit I have realised that they don't really help so have dropped half a stone.


i think you should mass produce those scales you used and sell them to the world over.

which activity are you referring to about your love handles?
a. surfing
b.shagging
c. bouldering


given that most of us are well into marriage and into / nearing 40's i guess that all three are a rare commodity to enjoy nowdays.....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dave lamacraft on July 24, 2010, 10:04:53 am

And dave I can't quite remember but suspect the spreading years are already upon you.
 

well into them Gav, embracing them I'd say, its nothing to be scared of......adds character.....remember, muscle weighs more than fat.....

i still want some of those scales of yours though
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on July 24, 2010, 05:55:42 pm
after another fucked up dolomites trip I am currently at the sea.
mega swell coming in since last night, going to be offshore tomorrow morning.
problem is that I probably won't dare paddling in, after many months without surfing.
on another note, I got the van back, fixed a few dings and even put in a double sized, 15 cm thick new mattress. so now I will only empty your fridge but will sleep chz moi.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 24, 2010, 08:09:40 pm
Get on that swell. If you don't you will regret it, and never get the chance to ride that wave again, it will be gone forever.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on July 24, 2010, 08:17:48 pm
oh yeah chris,
I will paddle in for sure! I only hope it won't be too big, because the spot is super crowded and the takeoff is very very narrow: there is some kind of a rocky channel underwater, so the wave breaks exactly in the same point. it clearly has pros and cons. it's a great wave to be honest, and can be quite intimidating for a mediterran longboarder. I can still remember one time when I paddled for a wave, stood up and realized it was fa steeper and bigger than I had judged. I trimmed the roundest, smoothest and longest bottom turn of  my life, there was a shorboarder in the inside and he started whistling and yelling, it was great.
but hey, I was young then.
 ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 24, 2010, 08:24:35 pm
You were younger then, you are stronger now :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2010, 02:44:10 pm
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=107865479263645#&ref=mf (http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=107865479263645#&ref=mf)

This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on August 04, 2010, 02:49:32 pm
'scuse my ignorance,  :shrug: but has got no fin on that board  :bow:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 04, 2010, 02:50:49 pm
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.

Just looks like he has taken his fins off...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on August 04, 2010, 02:57:34 pm
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.

Just looks like he has taken his fins off...

just? I suggest you give it a try.... ;)

Is that derek hynd at j-bay?

Looks amazing on such a good waves and by someone so good, probably less impressive if i take my fins off and surf a uk beachie!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on August 04, 2010, 03:16:47 pm
his quads must be aching after surfing that board.

hynd is a magician on a surfboard.

and i dont think its jbay.
too slow, and uneven.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2010, 03:18:45 pm
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.

Just looks like he has taken his fins off...

Like saying he has just climbed 8c barefoot. Have you ever lost one fin and tried to surf? Some of the spins and stuff are just about impossible.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2010, 03:21:20 pm
and i dont think its jbay.
too slow, and uneven.

Pretty sure it isn't, bit too deep too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 04, 2010, 03:30:36 pm
This video does my head in, can't believe what he does is possible. Apologies it's on FB.

Just looks like he has taken his fins off...

Like saying he has just climbed 8c barefoot. Have you ever lost one fin and tried to surf? Some of the spins and stuff are just about impossible.

Not saying i could do it! I have enough trouble surfing single fin!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on August 04, 2010, 05:57:31 pm
and i dont think its jbay.
too slow, and uneven.

Pretty sure it isn't, bit too deep too.

Was just looking for more footage, according to this caption for the same video it is jbay....

http://video.mpora.com/watch/ftIAcwIJ6/ (http://video.mpora.com/watch/ftIAcwIJ6/)

dont think the video includes the caption but if typed into google it takes you to the site.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on August 04, 2010, 06:10:50 pm
 :oops: that didn't work well!

If you type:

Derek Hynd finless @ JBay // Surfing Videos

its the first link
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 09, 2010, 12:25:46 pm
Just a heads up - a lot of Weever Fish at Porth Ceriad at the mo. I got stung twice, Ellie once. None were too bad but my toe is still numb and I daresay if you stood on one properly you'd be in a bad way. Shame to wear booties in summer but probably wise.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 12:29:31 pm
Did you stick your foot in hot water? Apparently best way of stopping pain.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trachinus#Treatment (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trachinus#Treatment)

How was surf?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 09, 2010, 01:15:23 pm
Small, and got smaller. Very clean though, good for learning. Got to feel smug about having the most suitable board, and had a few rides where I felt really solid, but still not managed a turn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 01:36:28 pm
It's not an easy board to turn much, especially in small / slow waves. Need to really compress on the bottom turn and get the fins and rail in. Great for trimming on though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 09, 2010, 02:00:27 pm
Trimming? Is that moving fore and aft to keep the ride going? I felt like I was a lot better at that this time... still a few nosedives though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 02:11:43 pm
Trimming? Is that moving fore and aft to keep the ride going?

Yup. You should be able to find the sweet spot though, and just stay there and fine tune by moving body weight onto back and front foot.

At least nosedives mean you aren't too far back. Try a slightly diagonal takeoff, esp in small steep waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 09, 2010, 02:35:40 pm
Ah right, thanks for the tips. I ran right off the back of the board a couple of times in my trimming attempts.... definitely getting there though, managed some fairly neat takeoffs.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 03:06:56 pm
yeah, I've done that. Moving backwards, combined with board accelerating because you are moving backwards, tricky not to let it disappear out from under you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Willriseley on August 09, 2010, 06:05:53 pm
How cool does this look? I ride a 5,10ft anyway so not a lot smaller plus I can sort of skim but this thing looks awesome :)

http://store.magicseaweed.com/Catch-Surf-The-One/Item/7171/ (http://store.magicseaweed.com/Catch-Surf-The-One/Item/7171/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on August 10, 2010, 02:54:23 am
Just a heads up - a lot of Weever Fish at Porth Ceriad at the mo. I got stung twice, Ellie once. None were too bad but my toe is still numb and I daresay if you stood on one properly you'd be in a bad way. Shame to wear booties in summer but probably wise.
Poor boody weever fish a having to sting one of your toes!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 10, 2010, 08:35:46 am
Yeah, I'm taking some solace from the thought of it dying a slow flaky death.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 17, 2010, 03:12:21 pm
Occasionally the N Sea plays fair. 2 hour low tide session on extended lunch, warm(ish) water, sunny skies, no wind and a nice clean swell with actual sets. Now got sand in my ears, welts under my arms and on my neck, as I forgot a rashie, knackered arms but a big grin. Hope this is the start of autumn swells.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 18, 2010, 06:42:24 pm
I sampled the delights of the same swell, far from great but fun all the same. Nice shoulder high glassy A frames on a local beach, sunshine, summer suit, no boots etc ( a rarity on NE coast). Good bit of punch for about an hour before the tide got to high and turned it into a loggers wave.

Bit crowded though with a whole 7 people in the water, some of which had travelled more than 2 miles to get here. I got fully local on there asses though as perscribed earlier in this thread, that sorted them all out. ;)

Nice little session but cant wait for some proper grunt to arrive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 18, 2010, 06:56:05 pm
Sounds nice, think the Baron is over there at the mo too. How much colder is the North Sea than the Irish? MSW seems to think only a couple of degrees, but I was expecting more...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2010, 09:41:13 pm
Bit crowded though with a whole 7 people in the water, some of which had travelled more than 2 miles to get here. I got fully local on there asses though as perscribed earlier in this thread, that sorted them all out. ;)

Nice little session but cant wait for some proper grunt to arrive.

Started off just two of us, peaked at 5 (two of which FD's mates who were on first boat trip).

Certainly seems a bit more life in it for a while.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2010, 09:44:04 pm
How much colder is the North Sea than the Irish? MSW seems to think only a couple of degrees, but I was expecting more...

3 or 4 maybe, not much more? I had boots on (but I always wear them now), and tatty 5/3 and felt fine. Fingers a bit cold for first 5 mins.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 19, 2010, 11:17:07 am
Its a good bit colder than ireland, my east coast summer suit is a 4/3. i was in for 3 hours the other day with no boots and started to feel a bit chilly by the end as we were sat around alot. I dont feel the cold badly though, everone else had boots and 5/3 s one even had gloves which is a bit OTT.

In ireland three weeks ago but didnt surf, went in the sea surfing with the kids though in a pair of shorts and teeshirt for 3/4 hour without feeling cold at all. only waist deep so stood up most of the time but did a fair bit of body surfing.

SA Chris, it must have been Paul, Sarah or Ritch. Say hello from Gav next time you see them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 19, 2010, 02:02:45 pm
First two. Will say hi next time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 19, 2010, 03:08:05 pm
Off to Abersoch tonight for the weekend if anyone is in Lleyn.  Surf doesn't look too bad for the North Coast and sheltered spots.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:15:21 pm
Off to Abersoch tonight for the weekend if anyone is in Lleyn.  Surf doesn't look too bad for the North Coast and sheltered spots.

Just thought that myself! Off trad climbing tomorrow in wales, then Lleyn for some surf Saturday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 03:28:01 pm
Planning to head down on tues/ weds for the best part of a week. Anyone in the area and fancy some surf or trad adventure, hit me up. All the birdbans are off now so we can get in as deep as you dare...

That reminds me, has the point break between Vatican zawn and Dorys ever been surfed? Looks amazing - long ride potential.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 19, 2010, 03:29:32 pm
Two weeks of flatness...
Been some epic partying scenes though.
And I have been doing climbing... Yipee!
Tintagel... (Superbloc).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:30:11 pm
Planning to head down on tues/ weds for the best part of a week. Anyone in the area and fancy some surf or trad adventure, hit me up. All the birdbans are off now so we can get in as deep as you dare...

Could very well be keen. Weather dependent. Trying to get trad partners in the current age of sport is hard work up here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 19, 2010, 03:32:08 pm


That reminds me, has the point break between Vatican zawn and Dorys ever been surfed? Looks amazing - long ride potential.
[/quote]

Slab?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 03:36:24 pm
Quote
Trying to get trad partners in the current age of sport

Tell me about it. I keep taking a trad rack to the Cornice, but getting people across the river you'd think it was the Rubicon ;)

Quote
Slab?

No, there's a steep slab with some boulders at the bottom but I think its sand as soon as you get a little way out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:37:52 pm
Quote
Trying to get trad partners in the current age of sport

Tell me about it. I keep taking a trad rack to the Cornice, but getting people across the river you'd think it was the Rubicon ;)

Quote
Slab?

No, there's a steep slab with some boulders at the bottom but I think its sand as soon as you get a little way out.

Would love to do Honey Dew.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 03:41:52 pm
It is good, a tricam is crucial for the start. After that its not so bold.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:44:38 pm
It is good, a tricam is crucial for the start. After that its not so bold.

Any hint on size?   :whistle:
Don't normally carry tricams!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 03:50:24 pm
Oohh, not sure about giving that much away!
NSFW  :
Red or Brown I think. Though it could be pink.  :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 19, 2010, 04:21:49 pm
That reminds me, has the point break in that area ever been surfed? Looks amazing - long ride potential.

Yes. Please edit your post accordingly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 05:28:31 pm
Eh - you can't edit stuff that far back? Are we back on the secrets again? I thought using the climber's names would avoid annoying anyone... or are you winding me up?

So is it decent? I can't see it ever getting crowded what with the walk and the scramble.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 19, 2010, 11:41:19 pm
Some crazy feeding going on around the town beaches...
Can not make out what it is, tell tale seagulls above...
Keep seeing fast fin movements, but not seen a Seal or a Dolphin yet!!!
Last two days???
Two foot and offshore tonight... Doubling in size tomorrow. 6:00 start!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2010, 08:35:31 am
Sand eels rising? usually bigger fish go after them, and gulls do after bigger fish and so on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 20, 2010, 11:16:24 am
 :thumbsup: a small swell has arrived along with southerlies in the SW it's been at least 3 weeks, lets hope this is the start of cracking autumn!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 20, 2010, 06:22:45 pm
Nah... It like a Plankton blanket... There was a Sunfish. Pod of Dolphins all this morning. Reckon its going to be good Basking shark spotting soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on August 23, 2010, 11:52:20 am
Spent a few days north of Whitby last week checking out overnight parking/quieter spots. Sunny, clean and in a 3/2. Discovered what a difference the tide can make, e.g. Sandsend - flat at high, firing at low. Scored a couple of classic Saltburn sunset sessions. Great wave.

Thursday looking good. Buying a van for the autumn. East is beast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 23, 2010, 12:44:35 pm
You guys further down the coast always benefit from the swell, but don't get nailed by the winds associated with the low creating it. Life aint fair sometimes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 23, 2010, 01:12:00 pm
We are kind of stuck in the middle where i am. anything 3ft or below or too northerly just passes us by and hits yorkshire, but when its bigger we can get a lot of winds. On the plus side NW winds are better the further north you go and not good yorks way.

Yorks also has a well known secret spot that has the magical ability to turn a 2ft swell into a head high barrel, a rare trick indeed.

I got in a few times last weeik but hardly cranking, shoulder high at best but not big enough to get the reefs working.

And whilst i agree with the east coast love given out by baron if you want surf like we had last week on a regular basis head west and south, i think they get 3 or 4 times the amount of surfable days we get.

Roll on the winter when we get some proper stuff then the east really does show the sw what proper waves are like.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 23, 2010, 01:17:47 pm
Brown?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on August 23, 2010, 01:38:35 pm
Hoping to head up to the NE to try out my new (old) board (cheers gme) this weekend, surf permitting. Anyone got a recommendation for a campsite close to surf in the scarborough region? Needs to have showers but not bothered about anything else. Realise finding one with any room at this late notice could be difficult.

Also if anyone fancies pm'ing me with any ideas for breaks which might not be rammed on a bank holiday weekend, would be greatfully received!  ;)  (unlikely I know, but worth a try!)

cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 23, 2010, 01:44:15 pm
not where i am, clear blue sea.. Its for the same reason its on of the uks top dive spots. i have had days here on certain reefs where you could see fish, rocks, weed etc refracted in the water as well as you do in indo.

and the colouration in yorks is mainly from the soil anyway. In the top 20 most polluted beaches in Uk only 1 was on the east coast. five in devon, five in cornwall four in cumbria.

I have never gotten  ill surfing the east coast. Most spots are fine other than the secrect spot mentioned in my earlier post which has shit water quality (i have not gotten ill there) and the two river mouth spots on the tyne and tees which can be fucking horrenduous after rain. (again i have not been ill from either but know lots who have, i put this down to and iron constitution gained from eating at the grand potato 3-4 times a week during the 90s.)
The only place i have become ill after surfing was hells mouth, and i am not sure that was from the sea either, it just seemed like it at the time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 23, 2010, 01:54:34 pm
Only joking, I'm keen to get over this autumn! There's a photo on this thread somewhere of an enormous brown yorkshire barrel, quite a sight.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 23, 2010, 02:46:36 pm
Thats yorkshire. Its Eugene Tollmarche and was the 2nd feb 2008. biggest and best swell in a decade. Perfect up my way as well. Got one or two of the biggest waves i have ever surfed and without doubt the biggest, heaviest flogging i have ever had.

Its the only time i have surfed waves that i would call properly double + over head, only four of us out and watched Gabe Davies getting full hands in the air barrels. He had just returned from hawaii and said it was comparable to any session he had had there (it was a bad season in the pacific). There is some footage of the session on "rise"

I bought a 7` 4" a week later ready for the next big swell, this still stands unridden in my board rack two and a half years later. one day though.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on August 23, 2010, 02:58:13 pm
Johnny - lets get involved on Thursday!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 23, 2010, 03:00:34 pm
I'm heading down the Lleyn on weds. You're in the Pass over the bank holiday aren't you? I'll let you know if its any good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 23, 2010, 03:05:14 pm
Hope there are some gaps in the forecasted wind!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on August 23, 2010, 04:03:39 pm
Yes please, it's our planned wet weather option!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 23, 2010, 07:08:30 pm
Quote
Brown?
:lol:

Quote
I'm heading down the Lleyn on weds. You're in the Pass over the bank holiday aren't you? I'll let you know if its any good.

Good plan, Thursday promises a pumping swell that will deffo get into N. Wales spots but you'll need to find shelter from those SWerlies :-\  10ft+ @ 11secs  ;D

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 23, 2010, 07:18:34 pm
Sounds perfect for that place I'm probably not supposed to mention despite it being all over the web.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 23, 2010, 10:43:18 pm
Yes indeed... But which one?  There's quite a few of those.. 

That little beach on an island, round the corner?

Down this way I was thinking somewhere beginning with M between Widemouth and Tintagel or another place in same the vicinity beginning with B or that place right round the corner in a County not associated with surf.. Or there's that place etc. etc. 

Forecast is shifty at the moment but it's definitely gonna be strong onshore, anywhere facing south or west will be mush, will the swell hold enough size to get in to sheltered spots?  Got a funny feeling we're all gonna get skunked.. Will report back Friday!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 24, 2010, 08:41:28 am
That little beach on an island, round the corner.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 25, 2010, 12:03:56 am
Spent all day today waiting for climbing folk to find car keys and stuff! waited three hours.... thought the surf was gash, drove past three foot Tolcarne pumpin....
Whippsyderry also looked OK for On Shore Swell!!!
Bet its trash till mid Sept!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 25, 2010, 01:05:01 am
Spent the day DWSing at Berry Head  :thumbsup:  Surf looked poo this morning.

Looks like this swell is gonna miss N Devon (too much south in it :wall:) but charts are looking super strong for N.Wales/  SW. Wales, wind direction looking perfect for you folks too!

Still a day for things to change again, come on storm track a little further bluddy north :spank:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2010, 08:47:17 am
Come on Danielle, show your dark side.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 25, 2010, 08:52:42 am
Fistral three foot and offshore!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 25, 2010, 08:54:33 am
Same at Hell's Mouth... just need to get there now.
(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/daily_photos/surf2a.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 25, 2010, 10:34:04 am
1 to 2 ft in N Devon, nice and clean but a pretty weak swell it is..

Low tide onwards could be promising though...

Tommorow is the day but south coast spots could be better..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 25, 2010, 04:00:54 pm
Three foot and clean here. Little head high barrels on my fav reef. Nice to feel a bit of juice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 25, 2010, 05:05:51 pm
Synoptic forecast is 2.5mt on Saturday... Low is holding in the Bay of Biscay, so plenty of South in the swell
2.5mt+SW=6-8ft Praa!
Should wrap to N Spots....
I be going Porthcurno on the low...
hits Thursday eve and should be a three dayer!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 26, 2010, 10:30:00 am
North Coast tail end of next week and into the weekend looking very very good!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2010, 10:50:46 am
Which North Coast?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 26, 2010, 11:08:41 am
Which North Coast?

Cornwall/Devon North coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 26, 2010, 11:34:43 am
Swell is not showing at this end of the coast :thumbsdown:

Quote
Low is holding in the Bay of Biscay, so plenty of South in the swell

South coast spots will be going off, swell's got far too much south in it and is missing the bloody target up here. 

Might manage 2ft and clean later but if you're mobile head west and south my friends, expect Lev'll be heaving.  I gotta a fickin hospital appointment at 4 which kinda spoils things for me, will be heading into frontier land across the border into N Kernow once they're done poking my cheek (which is now sorted thanks for asking).  S. Coast tommorow though :great:

There are some interesting developments in t'atlantic at the moment, we could be in for some treats in the coming weeks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2010, 01:40:43 pm
expect Lev'll be heaving. 

I was thinking that, in both senses of the word.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 26, 2010, 04:02:49 pm
Leven and two spots further round (East)... four to five and no wind...
Chapel cove and (?) Glassy and solid four!
North Coast... not good!
Going to bloody Tintagel bouldering... then going South Coast tonight for the dawnnie!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 26, 2010, 10:40:17 pm
Croyde managed a pathetic 1ft and clean  :o 

South Coast definitely having the better of this swell..  Did it make it up to the Lleyn?

Normality will be restored next week when we will score good waves on the N. Coast and the S will be onshore!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 07, 2010, 02:15:35 pm
Granticus, is this really Westward Ho?

http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=179650&photoOfTheDay (http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=179650&photoOfTheDay)

I only drove by and had a brief look once (it was flat and I was supposed to be working), doesn't look right somehow. Longboard paradise in that pic if it is.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 07, 2010, 05:30:26 pm
stunning picture that
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 07, 2010, 05:31:57 pm
Yep! Indeed that is the Ho!  looking all lined up and it is indeed a very good longboarding spot, far less punchy than Croyde
and a good quieter alternative to Saunton with similar waves. 

Eyeball called it 1ft and just about rideable on Monday morning.  The regulars at Croyde know very different, absolutely
pumping heaving A-frame low-tide barrels were served up right on cue (solid 4ft+ ? ).  Chatted to a couple of landlocked
visitors that were  :o by the heaviness of it all.  Definitely an intimidating proposition on days like this.  Been in 5 days in
a row and this was the session of them all, quiet, mostly regulars and wave after wave, no competiveness just folk calling
each other into waves, most unlike Croyde! (sometimes the web-sites and the charts are wrong so wrong).



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 07, 2010, 07:12:01 pm
Don't think I could cope with Saunton crowds ever again. Last time we were there for a wedding we went up to Woollacombe and headed along the beach until we found an nice empty peak. Saunton had hundreds in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 09, 2010, 01:46:49 pm
Our very own Dave Lamacraft styling at Ceriad.

http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5 (http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5)

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2010, 02:36:47 pm
Not sure what rest of E Coast is like, but big swells this morning, after 2 days of onshore gales. Waves breaking in places I have never seen before this morning. Hopefully be a bit smaller and cleaned later.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 09, 2010, 03:23:44 pm
Cranking down here last night once the winds dropped, a few 5 footers in there. Four of us on a right point, still a bit bumpy.

Perfect this morning, again 4ft ish only got an hour and half at first light before having to get train to Sheffield for two days, now being bombarded with texts about how good it is. Bollocks

 Dont get that many good SE/ E swells but this one looks like its one of them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 09, 2010, 08:43:28 pm
Our very own Dave Lamacraft styling at Ceriad.

http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5 (http://turtle.zenfolio.com/surfingporthceiriadsept10/e2f3910c5)

 :thumbsup:

nice
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2010, 09:51:29 pm
For once Aberdeen facing more SE paid off for once. Probably shoulder high ish this evening, only managed an hour or so before dark, but caught a half dozen great waves. Felt lack of fitness paddling out in big waves though, had to take a breather after each paddle out. Not good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 09, 2010, 10:52:19 pm
For once Aberdeen facing more SE paid off for once. Probably shoulder high ish this evening, only managed an hour or so before dark, but caught a half dozen great waves. Felt lack of fitness paddling out in big waves though, had to take a breather after each paddle out. Not good.
Good training for next time though buddy :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2010, 09:38:44 am
Word. That muscle (you know the one at the back of the top of your shoulder) aches like bollocks this morning. I think lunchtime yoga didn't help.
Hopefully it will last through until tonight.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 13, 2010, 05:37:09 pm
Crantock last week.
(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/180956.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 13, 2010, 06:32:06 pm
Great shot - anyone we know?

I got hammered; the story as follows:

Local mates: Lets go to Watergate

Me: Ok

Local mates: Whoooooo!!!!!!

Me: AAAARRRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 13, 2010, 06:39:04 pm
Great shot - anyone we know?

Josh Knowles. Its from MS, not one of mine.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 13, 2010, 06:53:56 pm
Crantock last week.
(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/180956.jpg)

that's fucking beautiful mate
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 13, 2010, 08:15:12 pm
East coast this weekend should be looking like a brown version of that - and the sun might even come out too!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 13, 2010, 09:12:18 pm
shit.

I got the kids in swiming galas, a work shift (24hrs) & a freeride bike to dial in... hence *fatdoc no go sponging this weekend*... :wall:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 13, 2010, 10:15:35 pm
Leven at its best. Excuse the fb link. Hope you can see it.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs565.snc3/30839_411446382552_677927552_4783187_1424552_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 13, 2010, 11:58:07 pm
Russ Mullins in the pit!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2010, 09:10:13 am
East coast this weekend should be looking like a brown version of that - and the sun might even come out too!

Never say things like that, beware the jinx (although I have a family weekend down in London, so that might up the odds).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 14, 2010, 10:25:08 am
Russ Mullins in the pit!!!

You must have seen the pic before to know who it was in there!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2010, 02:22:39 pm
That was taken when Russ and two gays on trays were in the water... Think they printed, Russ was the first one out.. Within minutes, he tamed it like a pussy cat". Ledgend.
He also got the "Queen of Kernow" centre spread in Surf Europe.
One of my greatest mates!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on September 14, 2010, 05:05:08 pm
If I was to drag my unfit arse to Scarborough with my Decathlon wetsuit over the next few days would I a) freeze to death and b) drown, (given the MS forecast)???  :shrug:

Essential imformation:  only second time I've surfed this year and I'm not very good  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 14, 2010, 05:45:55 pm
Go to south bay. You can get changed in the underground car park and stay warm. The water will be fine still too, just depends if the winds up or sun's out.

Surf off the arcades, in the lee of the harbour wall. The northerly swell should wrap around giving a smaller, cleaner wave.

Might be busy though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2010, 05:49:04 pm
The Crantock picture, it is proberbly breaking into waist high water... we had it like this right on the inside wedge... 9-10 close out on Saturday... but the ones that peeled..........
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 14, 2010, 07:29:00 pm
shit... that wave at the arcades sounds mighty fine..


OK, though I'll not get out for a few weeks....

someone give me some shopping sites / recommendations for bodyboarding  shoes / flipper combos.

I aint prepared to wait till next summer..

oh... and  a Hood.

cheers!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 14, 2010, 08:20:26 pm
I got one of these you can have for a tenner:
http://www.secretspot.co.uk/catalogue/1/product3947 (http://www.secretspot.co.uk/catalogue/1/product3947)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 14, 2010, 09:03:14 pm
size?

I'm  a large medium ( 56cm for DH MTB).

and whats wrong with it?
 this year's and from 28 to 10??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 14, 2010, 09:52:32 pm
I'm normally a medium in everything, but this came up a little tight so went for a large (it's a large).

I bought it last winter (obviously) and it's in perfect condition. I use a hooded rash vest instead now.

How does 15 sound then, ha ha!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 14, 2010, 10:07:17 pm
Sipping Jetstreams (Placebo Teaser) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGT36D7TcLE#ws)

Patrick King likes this.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 15, 2010, 12:17:23 am
Patrick King likes this.
I'm happy for him but let's not start this again I was lost the first time, who owes who what? :shrug:

I have this film and it is pretty cool.  The final section with Kelly Slater at Soup Bowls in Barbados is epic, nice to see him take a beating and enjoy it at the end as well... :thumbsup:

Strong SWerlies today, headed east with the intention of catching the Tour of Britain skirting the edge of Exmoor in the morning.  Went past a cool little left reef (not fecking Lyndaka that was blown out dribble) on the way, couldn't believe my eyes :o it was working 2 to 3ft clean punchy peelers on sets.  Boards and suit in my car still from Saturday evening.  Got in on my own and surfed it alone for an hour and half, then bloke who lives over the road got in (but he can't surf for toffee so didn't really affect the situation apart from the occasional drop-in belly ride and some exploratory reef inspections), then after 2 hours a couple of the Somerset crew got in. Surfed for another hour or so, good vibes, the tide dropped out and it was gone.  A great morning but I never did get to see the Tour..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 15, 2010, 03:29:19 am
Is it Vietnam?
Patrick King... almost as elusive as Dave Angel!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 15, 2010, 04:31:55 am
sounds perfect granticus
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 15, 2010, 07:11:24 am
Maybe 20!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2010, 09:18:08 am
recommendations for bodyboarding  shoes / flipper combos.

Hard to know what combination will work without trying on unfortunately, but they might sell them near you, maybe in Decathlon? Make sure you gat a pair of fins that are comfy and float, and get a neoprene sock specifically designed for use with fins (most surfing ones have a rubber sole which makes them very hard to get into fins.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 15, 2010, 09:52:02 am
cheers.

suddenly realised the ones I have now that sink like a stone have been somewhat of a hinderance
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on September 15, 2010, 10:22:21 am
Go to south bay. You can get changed in the underground car park and stay warm. The water will be fine still too, just depends if the winds up or sun's out.

Surf off the arcades, in the lee of the harbour wall. The northerly swell should wrap around giving a smaller, cleaner wave.

Might be busy though.

Thanks Baron. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2010, 11:10:19 am
suddenly realised the ones I have now that sink like a stone have been somewhat of a hinderance

If they are old they may have been a bit heavy. Newer ones are lighter, but floatiness is as much so you don't lose one if it comes off, or gets washed out your hands at any point.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 15, 2010, 11:24:06 am
Is it Vietnam?
Patrick King... almost as elusive as Dave Angel!!!

It's Bali...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 15, 2010, 04:12:30 pm
Fully inaccessable is it not...
Heli ride in?
looks so fuckin cute!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 15, 2010, 09:12:07 pm
PM with the details mate, cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 15, 2010, 10:52:31 pm
Not on today but you can watch the Hurley Pro (World Tour Surfing) live from Lower Trestles right here.http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/ (http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/)

I do believe I have met Pat King a few times, once at a boulder installed in a stately home in Warwickshire, once at Bear Rock indoor climbing wall (Warwick Uni) and once somewhere in the Peak (can't remember where?).  If I'd only known I would have abducted him and held him for ransom...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 16, 2010, 03:35:48 am
No one wants him though?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red  sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on September 16, 2010, 06:57:55 am
http://www.shipsterns.com/ (http://www.shipsterns.com/)

HUGE low pressure area moved over Tasmania over the last 24 hours. Swells peaked at over 18 metres off the SW coast last night. They're expecting it to remain at 8-9m for the next couple of days so there might be some 'intersting' shots and footage on the Shipsterns site coming up.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2010, 08:53:12 am
Shipsterns - all that scares me about surfing condensed into one wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 16, 2010, 01:35:49 pm
There's a monstrous slab further out that was photographed briefly earlier this year.  Like Shipsterns but Cortez Bank sized. Terrifying!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 16, 2010, 05:32:01 pm
Zorbas.
Please break again soon!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 17, 2010, 12:21:40 am
No one wants him though?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red  sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
:-\  This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?

He was climbing OK,  a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 17, 2010, 03:13:50 pm
No one wants him though?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red  sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
:-\  This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?

He was climbing OK,  a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...


Did he eat all your food without asking whilst wearing a pair of Calvin Klein boxer shorts?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on September 17, 2010, 03:34:58 pm
Before persuading you to swap your mountain bike for an old suit that didnt fit you and then leaving it in town where it got nicked?!

"Dolly! you're gonna die tonight!"

Have fun those of you lucky enough to be north east bound this weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 17, 2010, 03:40:59 pm

He was climbing OK,  a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...

That's the one!  :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 17, 2010, 06:34:03 pm
Cheers D

East coast kelp breakfast for me in the morning. Apparently today was epic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Drewski Rootbitch on September 17, 2010, 08:56:39 pm
Update from today;
Cayton Bay wasn't working at all, although there were a few people out on the point doing Billy-Big-Balls stuff (which apparently was not great either).
North Bay, Scarborough wasn't happening, general carnage.
Unfortunately, South Bay, Scarborough was nothing like the 2 stars MSW would have you believe.
Busy, as it was giving all impressions of working, but that was just a trick to lure you in.
On closer inspection very few waves were being caught as things were quite messy and choppy.
Lots of double hitters etc.
We were in for about 3 hours trying to get somewhere, but.....  :(
So if you didn't make it today, don't worry.

Last night however was quite nice...in the water until about 8:30pm..... :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 17, 2010, 09:09:03 pm
The MSW star system is the curse of the internet enabled surfer.  Ignore if you can.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: robertostallioni on September 17, 2010, 09:38:34 pm
Don't encourage him FFS. I lend him Jerry's book and the next thing I know is he's sacked climbing and using words like 'choppy' and 'double hitters'.   :'(

WTF.  ::)

 Anyway, carry on.  :alky:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 17, 2010, 11:32:31 pm
the next thing I know is he's sacked climbing

Good, might give us all a chance at Ratho in October!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 18, 2010, 03:22:10 pm
The MSW star system is the curse of the internet enabled surfer.  Ignore if you can.

It's fuckin my head in, and I've only used it since July!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 18, 2010, 07:22:41 pm
had an amazing day in tynemouth, 8am only a handful of surfers in for some amazing waves. 
Some really clean sets.  Only two major downfalls of the day,
managed to tweak my shoulder and i have just realised the great north run is on tomorrow  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Iesu on September 20, 2010, 11:14:04 am
Update from today;
Cayton Bay wasn't working at all, although there were a few people out on the point doing Billy-Big-Balls stuff (which apparently was not great either).
North Bay, Scarborough wasn't happening, general carnage.
Unfortunately, South Bay, Scarborough was nothing like the 2 stars MSW would have you believe.
Busy, as it was giving all impressions of working, but that was just a trick to lure you in.
On closer inspection very few waves were being caught as things were quite messy and choppy.
Lots of double hitters etc.
We were in for about 3 hours trying to get somewhere, but.....  :(
So if you didn't make it today, don't worry.

Last night however was quite nice...in the water until about 8:30pm..... :thumbsup:

I surfed the point break late afternoon/early evening as the tide was on it's way out, caught a few waves but it was hard work. First day out after cartilage operation on my knee, so it was nice just to be in the water. No climbing for 3 months *apparently* - surfing felt ok-ish...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 20, 2010, 11:44:40 am
Glad to hear there have been some waves for you east siders...

MSW star rating system and forecasts have their limitations, a sprinkling of local knowledge and sneaky peeks at webcams will help decision making further..

 :jaw:  West side is about to receive some post hurricane delights, could be all time, could be maxed out carnage.  Some smaller warm up swells to start the week and then things should get spicey, spring tides too...  IF the forecasts hold, swell starts 2ft at 20secs (could convert into a sizeable wave when it strikes shore) peaking at 5ft at 15secs with light offshores predicted...  :bounce:
No one wants him though?
I heard he has made it!
Lives off of Virgins sweat and bathes in milk?
Drives a two seater red  sports car...
all are rumours, bet He still partys hard though?
Was he climbing really well when you saw him?
:-\  This is suspiciously like someone anonomously fishing for praise, your name's not Pat is it Idol?

He was climbing OK,  a little bit podgy, nothing that would've set the world on fire...


Did he eat all your food without asking whilst wearing a pair of Calvin Klein boxer shorts?
Ate all my food and alleviated me of my crashpad for the afternoon (or was that Johnny Dawes!!?).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 20, 2010, 12:28:12 pm
Epic up here on sat if you knew where to go, all main beaches were just closing out and i suspect a lot of people spent a lot of time driving and looking.

Tides (or lack of any)didn't help but due to the size of the swell loads of new/ rarely ridden slabs got a hammering. My favorite spot was solid five foot and jacking to double over head with the odd bigger ones. Got some of the best waves i have had for a while and one proper good flogging when we all got caught chatting and failed to see the biggest set of the afternoon. Total carnage as nine of us took the full set on the head.

The only downer which takes me back to the localism issue was the fact that the van loads from the SW including a few of our top surfers cant go anywhere without cameras. I suspect one of our waves will now be all over the next issue of Carve and in the next UK video.

To make it worse they now all bring jet skis to surf waves that have been paddled by a few people for years. This time they failed to tow surf a slab that's been ridden lots without skis and was happily paddled into at the same size by three young kids from newcastle who are hardly old enough to be out without there mums.

Matty capel however, who did not use a ski, give the best surfing performance i have ever seen  on a seldom ridden slab. total pleasure to witness.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 20, 2010, 06:24:18 pm
Aye.

Got the tour from a mate who lives in Whitby this weekend and popped my east coast slab cherry. Amazing.

I have 1 board; 7' 2'' x 22 x 2 7/8 quad fish. Felt like I needed something snappier.

Suggestions for east coast reef/point board?

I'm 5' 11'' and 10st 12lbs
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 20, 2010, 08:14:31 pm
Ha! Josh Hughes killing it at Staves too!!!
Seen the photos...
Love them boys!
Skis are gay though, but if your in rehab all week... you need help at weekends!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 20, 2010, 08:42:54 pm
Gay is a good word for them. Very lame and lazy. I work too much and could triple my wave count with them as it's my arms that give out before the will, could afford one but wouldn't get one as the waves here really don't need one. Ireland maybe but not here, ain't seen a wave that couldn't be paddled yet.  Seams like there the latest must have gadget.

Baron. Your board sounds way to wide for the heavier east coast waves. Generally you want something a bit narrower with more rocker for the steeper waves. Length may not be an issue but I would guess from the description it's a pretty wide fat board for the average waves we get. My standard beach short board is six foot but 19 INS wide. My reef board is 6.4 x 18 3/4 and my step up that I rode sat was 6.6 but only 18. 1/2 wide. Ie they get thinner as they get longer.
Also I like round pins on the reef/slabs as they hold better than squares.
Re fins. I am a thruster man. Never found the twin /quad thing any good. Think it's just to sell more boards.  And I already have to many.
I have a 6.3 for sale but it may be too small for you. I love it in indo etc when I am in shorts but it's too small for uk winter with all our clobber on. I am bigger than you at 6.1 and 80 kg.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 20, 2010, 09:36:58 pm
Good knowledge gme, cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 21, 2010, 08:22:01 am
We got waves all week again...
just a heads up for a SW visit!!!
Weekend looking better, Friday Saturday it should peak?
Still in a 3.2
Going to see Adam Beyer at DRUMCODE, so going to miss most of it!



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 21, 2010, 08:49:54 am
Epic up here on sat

Great weekend I chose to go to SE to see relatives. Gutted.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 21, 2010, 06:29:04 pm
It would be my first true short board so I'm wary of going too short too soon.

Tried a 6' 6'' beachbeat thruster with a bit more width (around 19'' I think, maybe more) and volume than yours a while back. Seemed to get on with that ok. Sound reasonable?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on September 21, 2010, 09:10:49 pm
i got a 6'8" x 19" rounded pin rusty thruster off of ebay after a bit of advice from falling down and chris. It goes great. Got it for indo but reckon it would suit the east. Im a similar size ti yiu. Touch heaviier.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2010, 02:48:48 pm
Some bean spillage on Vimeo

Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)

ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on September 22, 2010, 03:34:35 pm
A good four to five... six on the sets, blowing out afternoon type shit... building on the push scenarios, but improving through the week!
Called Skinner off a double overhead bomb today at Whippsy! fully funny! really good surfer that guy, and leaves the Ego out!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 22, 2010, 06:19:27 pm
Nice to see they put all the locals waves on the video as well and its not some SW centered wave fest !!!

Still good and eugenes wave at the end gets my vote as the best.

Wasnt quite as big where we were but only just a bit smaller, there are pics about but they are all on flickr and i cant work out how to get them onto here.

Heres a link to his page if it works http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/ (http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/)

 just shows what the east coast can produce the once or twice a year we get a proper 6 ft swell hitting. If only there was a way to get rid of scandinavia and russia.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2010, 06:28:38 pm
I reckon it would be better to push NE tip of Scotland westwards a bit so the Aberdeen Coast faces NE and doesn't get in the way. That way we will get more swell, and you will get a wider window.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 22, 2010, 06:34:30 pm
The guy in the red top suit getting the reform barrel. Ruler.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on September 22, 2010, 07:14:01 pm
there are pics about but they are all on flickr and i cant work out how to get them onto here.

Heres a link to his page if it works http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/ (http://www.flickr.com/x/t/0097009/photos/swin_hoe/5008173544/)

Read Backlinking Flickr the easy way (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Pictures_to_UKBouldering#Backlinking_Flickr_the_easy_way) (or the official way from Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/help/photos/?search=bbcode#2265887))

Et voila!

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/5008177840_949fcb5558_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/swin_hoe/5008177840/)
DSC_4004 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/swin_hoe/5008177840/#) by swinhoe industries (http://www.flickr.com/people/swin_hoe/), on Flickr


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 22, 2010, 07:34:14 pm
Well done.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on September 22, 2010, 07:37:28 pm
T'was nothing, I wrote the UKB Wiki page to save having to type the same thing each time someone was having trouble posting pictures.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 22, 2010, 09:23:03 pm
Great film - Just show's how good UK surfing can get when it's on.

Gav - Any pics of you on the Flickr stream?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 22, 2010, 09:48:49 pm
Some bean spillage on Vimeo

Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)

ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.

this looks amazin

give some climbing context here... is this what.. E5 onsight? E8 ??

bolted 8b redpoint or on sight??


I have no idea.. but, damn.. that was cool!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 22, 2010, 10:10:19 pm
The guys in the vid are all good surfers and have some form of basic sponsorship, photo's in mags etc or another.  They can surf and have also surfed much more impressive and demanding conditions...

Difficult to make a comparison with climbing as the two don't really match up and it depends what you do on the wave once you're on it, but, when you surf outside of England you regularly see surfing to this standard regularly and the surfers in question are rarely sponsored.

It depends on where you put yourself and what you do with the wave rather than the wave itself - that's why you can't grade surfing thank god.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 23, 2010, 11:03:46 am
Some bean spillage on Vimeo

Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)

ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.

Hey Chris do you know where this is exactly?, unless it says on the vid but im watchin it wit no sound. Im thinking shitty water so not to far north.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 23, 2010, 11:19:39 am
Some bean spillage on Vimeo

Yorkshire Pud (http://vimeo.com/15167785)

ET managing to get through those two lips at the end is pretty impressive.

Hey Chris do you know where this is exactly?, unless it says on the vid but im watchin it wit no sound. Im thinking shitty water so not to far north.

Its 'Cookie Monsters' but i assume its a heavily guarded secret!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 11:50:44 am
Aye, I think mum is the operative word there. I don't know, but think gme might. PM him with a good bribe and he might just tell you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 23, 2010, 11:59:31 am
It's in Yorkshire...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 23, 2010, 12:01:43 pm
This has caused an absolute shit storm in the last 48 hrs, the locals (non of which are in the vid) are totally fucked off with the producer of the video. Even one of the surfers in it isnt happy. i have had loads of emails and texts trying to get as many people as possible complaining to carve about it.

Despite it being the worst kept secret in the world its still a secret spot and does not feature in any guides. So if you know where it is keep it to your self.

Re the link i posted, i would be greatful if it does not go further than this forum and, again if anyone knows me and can therfore identify where the pics are taken please keep it to themselves. i shouldnt really have posted them and kind of regret doing so now.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 12:02:30 pm
Quote
It's in Yorkshire...


No shit

(http://tnrdlibrary.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/sherlock-holmes.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 12:05:43 pm
i have had loads of emails and texts trying to get as many people as possible complaining to carve about it.

Hardly the first time Carve have fucked people off with cats getting out of bags. Managed to do it in ireland, Scotland and Wales already IIRC.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 23, 2010, 12:14:04 pm
This has caused an absolute shit storm in the last 48 hrs, the locals (non of which are in the vid) are totally fucked off with the producer of the video. Even one of the surfers in it isnt happy. i have had loads of emails and texts trying to get as many people as possible complaining to carve about it.

Despite it being the worst kept secret in the world its still a secret spot and does not feature in any guides. So if you know where it is keep it to your self.

Re the link i posted, i would be greatful if it does not go further than this forum and, again if anyone knows me and can therfore identify where the pics are taken please keep it to themselves. i shouldnt really have posted them and kind of regret doing so now.

Locals, fuck em, surfings now pretty much fucked anyway, half the residents of greater london have got boards on there roof. Ive got a really good local crag thats got some good problems on it, theres no way id want to try and stop anyone experiencing it. Selfish bastards is what they are.
Anyway when a place like that is ripping your pretty unlikely to get joe bloggs rocking up for take off, he'd get splattered.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 23, 2010, 12:49:52 pm
Sorry gme, just re read thats not suppose to be a rant at you, just a the old local attitude in general. Having been on the receiving end of some localism it hits a nerve with me everytime.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 01:02:14 pm
Ive got a really good local crag thats got some good problems on it, theres no way id want to try and stop anyone experiencing it. Selfish bastards is what they are.

Crags accessible 180 days a year compared to breaks that work like that maybe 3 or 4 days a year do not equate. I can see why people get fucked off.
Magazines have little to gain in the long term by publishing things like this other than selling a few more copies of that current issue.

There is dickheadish chestbeating "I am a local this is my wave" localism and then there is justified, "I have waited for this day all year and don't want too big a crowd " localism. Two ends of the scale.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 23, 2010, 01:03:19 pm
i am not getting involved in this again. Read a few pages back for my stance
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 23, 2010, 01:24:57 pm
Yeh i appreciate what your saying Chris, there's the local nobs and the local good guys, but it still doesnt cut. Eg. I was trying a certain traverse local to me, and you only get really good conditions once a month tops, especially when you have to fit it around job etc. So i been training and trying for this thing for over a year, i rock up, dry wind from the north, suns out, low humidity, perfect, only happens 4 or 5 times a year. Place is fucking packed, and now ive got to climb past people, put up with distractions, people laughing etc etc.. its same thing, buts its my problem not their's.
Anyway, i guess this subject has been bashed to death n is tiresome  :yawn: so ..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 23, 2010, 01:35:19 pm
Ive got a really good local crag thats got some good problems on it, theres no way id want to try and stop anyone experiencing it. Selfish bastards is what they are.

Crags accessible 180 days a year compared to breaks that work like that maybe 3 or 4 days a year do not equate. I can see why people get fucked off.
Magazines have little to gain in the long term by publishing things like this other than selling a few more copies of that current issue.

There is dickheadish chestbeating "I am a local this is my wave" localism and then there is justified, "I have waited for this day all year and don't want too big a crowd " localism. Two ends of the scale.

Ok, soooo... if it  only works 6 times a year... shurly only the locals /  those able anable that can get there (and one would presume not fuck up the line up as they would know they are in a special place with equally minded souls) would go?

I and a vast army of punter just wouldnt / couldnt go?

I dont quite get the *crowds are anathama for surfing to be any good* concept. there again I just like flailing around on a sponge so what do i know? I presume that puts me right down at the bottom of the pecking order.. which is wierd.. as from my very limited experience spongers have a high sucess rate in catching a wave they go for.

It's all new to me, but in the UK with it's over population I find it hard to believe there are few regularly breaking secret spots  :shrug:

may as well get em all out in the open, to dilute the other breaks if crowding out the back is a national problem  :shrug:

there again, if i knew of such a place... i'd perhaps have a different view :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 23, 2010, 02:49:16 pm
Re the link i posted, i would be greatful if it does not go further than this forum and, again if anyone knows me and can therfore identify where the pics are taken please keep it to themselves. i shouldnt really have posted them and kind of regret doing so now.

Indeed, a certain landmark in the background of one is a big give away. Might want to take that one down.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 02:58:18 pm
I wish i had taken gme's stance

Quote
I am not getting involved in this again

I understand why it happens but don't necessarily agree with it. Like many things in life unless you are in the exact situation you can't really appreciate it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 23, 2010, 06:03:32 pm
at least they cant come to my local barrel fest and just shoot videos of it like this!
oh wait, brb
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 23, 2010, 06:34:25 pm
how do i remove my post.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2010, 07:49:21 pm
Hopefully a mod will read this and do it for you ask Bubba or one of the IOs.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 23, 2010, 08:38:43 pm
Not sure of the impact of removing them from here tbh, flickr is a site with rather more traffic.

I can identify to some extent to the secretism in surfing (as opposed to localism) but I think this illustrates why its going to struggle in the information age. The research I've done on Lleyn spots suggests a lot of info all ready online, and very little consensus on which are secret.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 23, 2010, 10:37:53 pm
Looks like there was quite a collection of visitors from down this way, including a youngster from Croyde with 'acting skills'..

Not gonna get involved either I think all that could be said has been said and that's 'nuff said.

Solid swell is arriving SW tomorrow along with Northerly winds, perhaps the NE mafia could start an impromptu exchange programme with their Cornish chums and pile on down to the Lev or nearby secrets that'll be cranking :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on September 24, 2010, 12:00:31 am
Like anyone actually "owns" waves/breaks, they're so ephemeral!  :P

(I do however understand that that is part of their appeal)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on September 24, 2010, 08:45:12 am
I'm probably heading down to pembroke tonight based on the promise of long period small waves. Its a 41/2 hour trip from here so want to get it right. Msw is suggesting 3ft at 15 secs, anyone care to take a guess whether this will be genuine 3ft or should I apply the usual msw conversion for wave height/stars?

It looks as though I'd be better heading to Croyde or somewhere nearby but I'm put off by stories of packed waves.

I'm guessing lots of people will say go and find out but would appreciate any local (or not) knowledge. I dont mind it being small but would like some reasonably clean waves (who wouldn't I know).

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2010, 08:53:48 am
Don't know the breaks well enough to be certain, but it looks likely you will get something at Fresh W or  Newgale, may not be what you want though. N Devon only looks marginally better. Can't give any better advice than suck it and see, I'm afraid.

Stick ropes and mat in just in case.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 24, 2010, 09:06:36 am
Big swells on the east coast but with north winds.

There will still be spots where you can get a good wave though to save you the trek down to Pembroke. South Bay and filey will be cleanish and worth a paddle.

Lots of other spots as well all up the coast just get out a map and look for anywhere facing SE, the swell is more than big enough to wrap into most sheltered bays.

I love the east coast when its like this.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on September 24, 2010, 09:21:35 am
Cheers for the info guys, guess I'll wait until the last minute to make the call.

By the way gme the boards great, its taken no time at all to get used to, well pleased. I did pm you but think it was just before the site crash.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 24, 2010, 09:41:11 am
Glad to here it. I thought it would be good for you as its a great board, short but with a good bit of width and thickness where its needed to get you into waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 24, 2010, 10:07:47 am
Quote
It looks as though I'd be better heading to Croyde or somewhere nearby but I'm put off by stories of packed waves.

Too much north in the wind today for Croyde to be any good, if you were to head down this way you'll be better off heading to the south coast where the wind'll be offshore.  Not much shelter from north winds on the north coast, a little bit of protection at Saunton and Polzeath. 

Croyde can get very busy, particularly at weekends when warriors and stuntmen arrive from all over.  The standard of surfing is very high and the regulars are very 'competitive'.  So it can be a game of patience for newbies and visitors to get a wave off the pack (who take off late and deep).  However, at low-tide Croyde can be an epic beach break with heaps of power and barrels (this can be very dangerous, scarey and intimidating if you're not used to it).  You could get the wave of your life or you could get the flogging of your life. Usual rules apply DON'T drop in (always check over your shoulder), show respect, don't snake and all will be fine.

I will be mostly walking into a rarely ridden right hand point break that should be turning on the magic and high tide this evening. Fingers crossed we don't get skunked :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2010, 12:25:14 pm
I've never actually surfed Croyde (actually I think I did once, but it was v late on a weekday). Other beaches in the area better suited to non-experts IMO>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 24, 2010, 03:03:52 pm
just got back from a blowout of white water and ridiculous northern winds.  It was at best unsurfable and dangerous.  Couple of hidden spots ill check tonight, tomorrow on the other hand... everything is in the pipe to be somewhat clean
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2010, 03:11:36 pm
N Sea is looking lively for sure, standby in holding position, keep watching the wind. Swoop when the time is right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on September 24, 2010, 07:04:42 pm
Anyone surfed Bridlington? Visiting folks in NE Lincs tmr and looking to find nearest place with some shelter from wind/swell.

Am I better off just heading straight to Filey?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 24, 2010, 08:38:24 pm
Probes.
Where you heading. I am off to a certain,black, spot in river mouth up north that loves this swell  Don't know where your based.
In a blue bilbo transporter.
Always cool to hook up.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2010, 09:14:49 pm
Anyone surfed Bridlington? Visiting folks in NE Lincs tmr and looking to find nearest place with some shelter from wind/swell.

Never been, but I would have thought Bridlington would have been a bit too sheltered. Faces South doesn't it? This isn't deep groundswell, so doubt it will do much wrapping around.

I think.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 24, 2010, 09:44:47 pm
My post was meant for philo not probes. I am fucking useless at this chat room shite.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 25, 2010, 06:35:22 pm
My post was meant for philo not probes. I am fucking useless at this chat room shite.

Northern winds again destroyed today, went in at sland pier for an hour but it was again a wash out.  im thinking low tide when the wind dies might create something cleaner. 

Was thinking slightly further south with another pier and harbour in mind for tomorrow but ill see what happens.  im based in sunderland and tomorrow im going to look for more sheltered spots.  Whats your plans gme
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 25, 2010, 07:06:44 pm
philo.
Great session at middens this morning. head high and A little bigger on sets. Hard work as usual paddling against an outgoing tide and a river.
Then got a nice beach session at seaton point up north. Usually a heap of crap wave but always gives out on storm swells like this and I can see it from my house so no driving. 
Good day allround.
Family stuff tomorrow so probably not surf. Winds look shit with a bit of east in them.
Monday potentially better. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 27, 2010, 10:01:26 am
My post was meant for philo not probes. I am fucking useless at this chat room shite.

Was thinking that was a bit too stranger friendly? :-)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 28, 2010, 01:49:12 pm
Any good punts for the weekend? considering jumping on a cheap'ish' flight on friday evening.
 Back from three years in Aus and despite being a british national yet to surf over here! Any recommendations for a weekend hit?
 im going nuts in London
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 28, 2010, 02:27:22 pm
There's a blast from the past. Can't believe it's 3 years already. I still got your Miki Dora book, do you want it back?

SW looks good. Putsborough would be where I put my money for a weekend blast from London.

Hope you got a useable wetsuit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 28, 2010, 09:46:58 pm
 ;D hahha.... no worries. yep i need to get hold of something warm eh. not sure my aussie 3x2 will cut it. In fact im not sure i can cut it.
was thinking about Ireland.....MSW has lots of stars. Its all i have got at the mo in the way of knowledge :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 28, 2010, 10:46:53 pm
3 years!!!


bloody hell mate  :hug:

good to hear from you  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 29, 2010, 08:52:19 am
 ;D :beer2: Time zips by! Just got back a few of weeks a go. The locum /surf travel dream had to end at some point. I very nearly got sucked into the
 vortex of jungle surf where weeks simply drift by. A dangerous however quite pleasurable path to have trodden... ( for a time)..
 
Fat doc i have noted your frequency of posts on this 'surfer' forum :), tell me your surfing regularly...... beer? surf weekend up north?
 How are tricks at ches vegas?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 29, 2010, 08:53:14 am
God i sound like Machado
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 29, 2010, 09:20:10 am
God i sound like Machado

You wish.

I thought you were after a weekend hit. If you got time on your hands head for County Claire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 29, 2010, 10:54:03 am
Any good punts for the weekend? considering jumping on a cheap'ish' flight on friday evening.
 Back from three years in Aus and despite being a british national yet to surf over here! Any recommendations for a weekend hit?
 im going nuts in London

Your local spot would be The Witterings...  Should be classic this weekend :whistle:

If you're gonna jump on a flight, Ireland's gotta be a good call for the weekend.  France is looking OK but will be heaving due to the Quickpro...

SW UK will be OK but looks like you will need to seek shelter from the wind which is gonna be shifting around Southerly SouthWesterly all weekend.


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 29, 2010, 12:08:34 pm
France is looking OK but will be heaving due to the Quickpro...

The whole country? Never realised they were that popular ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on September 29, 2010, 02:02:02 pm
haha... im not sure sounding like Machado is a good thing.  Im certainly at the other end of the spectrum on the style? front as well.  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 29, 2010, 11:10:17 pm
;D :beer2: Time zips by! Just got back a few of weeks a go. The locum /surf travel dream had to end at some point. I very nearly got sucked into the
 vortex of jungle surf where weeks simply drift by. A dangerous however quite pleasurable path to have trodden... ( for a time)..
 
Fat doc i have noted your frequency of posts on this 'surfer' forum :), tell me your surfing regularly...... beer? surf weekend up north?
 How are tricks at ches vegas?

no fuckin idea what you & chris have just communicated in the last few posts ben!!

I'm a middle aged sponger, shite and proud  ;D

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 30, 2010, 10:40:51 am
Cloudbreak September 2010 (http://vimeo.com/15181963)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2010, 10:47:41 am
I would fill my pants. Both ways.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 30, 2010, 12:30:35 pm
Quote
I'm a middle aged sponger, shite and proud
:lol:  Brilliant!  The only way is up... Step 1)Middle aged sponger that charges Step 2) Middle aged sponger does drop knee 3) Middle age sponger realises standing up is much more fun.....

Just one thing, in the meantime, would you, PLEASE, get out the fecking way.  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris j on October 02, 2010, 07:08:39 pm
First time out on the surfboard in a long, long time today. Morning session at Putsborough, 4ftish, pretty clean. Probably caught more waves today than in all the last 5 years  :) Even managed to stand up on one or two. Memo to self though, must put more wax on the board...

Looking good for tomorrow too  :bounce:

Just wanted to share...  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 02, 2010, 07:23:07 pm
Waking over to Baggy for a few routes at low tide, then catching Puts on the push used to be one of my favourite days out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 03, 2010, 09:48:34 pm
Quote
First time out on the surfboard in a long, long time today. Morning session at Putsborough, 4ftish, pretty clean. Probably caught more waves today than in all the last 5 years   Even managed to stand up on one or two. Memo to self though, must put more wax on the board...

Yep it was certainly pumping Saturday if you could find shelter from the Southerlies, P-Land wasn't the only place firing on Saturday either. :great:   Shame the wind ruined things today...

And the charts for the foreseeable are :jaw:

Love midweek mornings after 9am in the autumn/ winter; No weekend warriors, the dawn patrollers have gone to work, have a go hero tourists have gone home, the roads are quiet, water's still warm ish and the swells keep coming... best time of year!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 04, 2010, 02:51:02 am
i agree with that, although theres a certain satisfaction sitting on your board waiting for the sets to come in when its 6.30 and your the only person anywhere near the beach


edit:

on beach breaks has anyone had any issues with fisherman?  Couple milling about near the rocky side of tynemouth the other day with at least a dozen in the water.  Must scare the fish away so they cant be happy really.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2010, 09:00:07 am
There have been a few fishing at Banff in the past when we have gone in. They were really friendly though, and not at all bothered about us scaring the fish away. Even offered to look after car keys for us. Just chatted to them to get an idea of where they were casting and stayed out the way of their lines. They offered to move up the beach a bit, but wern't cating onto the main peak anyway.

Managed to get a great hour in just before dark yesterday. Only one other person in the water, the wind had dropped completely and there were some nice longboard waves coming in. Got about half a dozen great rights in before it got too dark, then just sat out the back for a bit just feeling the swells and looking at Aberdeen lit up against the night sky. Then got a bit paranoid and rode a wave back to shore.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on October 04, 2010, 09:11:43 am
If you're gonna jump on a flight, Ireland's gotta be a good call for the weekend.  France is looking OK but will be heaving due to the Quickpro...

Not just heaving with people, have you seen some of the footage from the Quiky?  even Slater was struggling to get out back. Absolutely macking, I'd have been firmly enscounced in the cafe de la plage I think..

nice waves at a sheltered spot here Saturday, air temperature cooling but the sea still lovely in a summer suit
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris j on October 04, 2010, 03:46:20 pm
Quote
And the charts for the foreseeable are :jaw:

Love midweek mornings after 9am in the autumn/ winter; No weekend warriors, the dawn patrollers have gone to work, have a go hero tourists have gone home, the roads are quiet, water's still warm ish and the swells keep coming... best time of year!!



Tuesday looks a little big & scary for me but somewhere sheltered for Weds and then Thurs looks mellow  :)

Got to agree, best time of year for hitting the beaches, no crowds, easy parking, warm water...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 04, 2010, 07:29:48 pm
Any good recommendations for winter suits then- to go fixed hood or not?
 Any personal recommendations much appreciated.
Reality is im looking at long weekends- ireland, scotland and europe/morocco (reckon my 3/2 will cover me for the warmer climes)-
really just chasing good waves as a weekend warrior quick hits with cheap/late flights...... man im missing living next to the beach :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2010, 07:34:19 pm
I've got an XCEL Infiniti O Zip (got on sale, can't afford full whack!) which I wear together with a XCEL hooded polypro rash vest on really cold days.

Keeps me toasty even when air temp is hanging around zero. Nice and flexible too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 04, 2010, 07:58:55 pm
Anyone tried the Patagucci ones yet? Spiel sounds impressive...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 04, 2010, 08:40:22 pm
Couple of blokes on MSW forum have got them and rave about them, but at the price you would hope they be good. I would love to get one, but with an "unconventional" body shape, would be loathe to shell out 400 buying something on the tinterweb I haven't actually tried on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 04, 2010, 10:14:25 pm
Got a reduced price kwiksliva ignite 6/5 during the summer built in hood chest zip jobbiee for when it gets baltic, I always buy outta season to get a bargain.  Alas_ I have yet to test this out but it looks nice and doesn't smell of piss (yet).
Like climbing shoes, I reckon wetsuits are pretty much of muchness, pay for quality and you'll get quality infact anything high range from the main manufacturers will perform.  Fit is important and finding the brand that fits you (unless you're buying a measured to fit such as SNUGG) is half the battle.
400  :o  Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 04, 2010, 11:25:14 pm
Anyone tried the Patagucci ones yet? Spiel sounds impressive...

oooh they do look nice...... i had a fondle down at the patagonia store in Torquay. The merino wool lining tripped me out  abit. i could not get round the thought of an itchy school jumper! That said.. lovely idea, nature often does stuff best.
 but a little outta my budget at the mo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2010, 08:53:12 am
400  :o  Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!

I hear what you are saying, but depends how long it lasts and how well it performs? If you can get all the warmth without the extra weigth and still have the flexibility it's got to be pretty valuable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Iesu on October 05, 2010, 10:27:08 am
400  :o  Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!

I hear what you are saying, but depends how long it lasts and how well it performs? If you can get all the warmth without the extra weigth and still have the flexibility it's got to be pretty valuable.

plus don't they have the "cast iron guarantee" like the rest of their stuff? Send it back 18 months down the line when you've ragged a seam and get a brand new one. . .
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 05, 2010, 11:09:50 am
400  :o  Sod that, you could by a new board for that, paying more for a wetsuit than you do for a board has to be a wrong un??!

It also partly depends one where you live and surf throughout the winter months  :)

I've got an Excel Infiniti Hooded Drylock 5:4 that's toasty warm. That said, (and before GME and Dave get it in ) I've turned into a right fair weather surfer and rarely venture into the water unless I'm in boardshorts and sunscreen.  :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2010, 11:41:43 am
Curly Ben, you didn't say if you want the Miki Dora book back. I can either post it back to you or pass it on to any other UKBers who want to read it?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Paul B on October 05, 2010, 11:46:42 am
Didn't know if this might interest some of you.

52-camera rig setup catches surfing moments http://cot.ag/c5QAAq (http://cot.ag/c5QAAq)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Durbs on October 05, 2010, 11:50:53 am
Also - Boston Globe have this today:
http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html (http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 05, 2010, 12:03:06 pm
Also - Boston Globe have this today:
http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html (http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/10/waveriders.html)

Great set of images, the dog in pic 22 looks very unhappy, I know that feeling sometimes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on October 05, 2010, 10:27:26 pm
Curly Ben, you didn't say if you want the Miki Dora book back. I can either post it back to you or pass it on to any other UKBers who want to read it?

pass it on if someone would like to read it. all good
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2010, 09:26:06 am
Will do. Anyone want to read it, FD, do you still want to?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-Few-Perfect-Waves-Audacious/dp/0224075861/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1286353495&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-Few-Perfect-Waves-Audacious/dp/0224075861/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1286353495&sr=8-1)

PM me with an address and I will post it on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on October 06, 2010, 09:47:56 am
Now't special but my brother snapped this at the weekend whilst down in Tramore surfing himself (although I'm hoping this is before/after he was in the water as he had my lens :P)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5046922350_a7d3db67db_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gpshephard/5046922350/)Surfing (http://www.flickr.com/photos/gpshephard/5046922350/#)
 by gpshephard (http://www.flickr.com/people/gpshephard/), on Flickr
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 06, 2010, 12:02:09 pm
Thinking of heading down to Woolacombe/Puts/Bude tomorrow.  How's it looking given my beginner status??  MS reports messy at the moment but possibly improving over the weekend as the wind shifts round to the east?  Help!   ::)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2010, 12:21:33 pm
I would say it would be fine for you. I would have a look at Suanton, which I expect will be absolutely heaving (look down from parking on cliff edge) and if it is head over to Woolacombe, head south down the bech until you find a quieter peak and enjoy the day there. Croyde (and often Puts) are a bit heavier and are often busier with better surfers.

IMO of course. I'm sure the local will be along shortly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 06, 2010, 12:31:48 pm
Thanks Chris!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on October 06, 2010, 01:02:34 pm
Crantock rules outright when its like this... i had a very fortunate day about 3 yr ago with about 8 hours solid of these, like clockwork every ten minutes, you were getting barrelled when you didnt even want it, didnt leave the water all day  ;D

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/185356.jpg)

enjoy
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 06, 2010, 02:33:22 pm
Ermmmm, once again showing my ignorance.  I've picked up from a number of sources that some breaks work better at different stages of the tide.  So, is there a general rule here?  If I'm going to Woolacombe or Putsborough, and low tide is bang in the middle of the day, when are the best conditions likely to be?   :please: :shrug:

Yeah, could have phrased all that better I'm sure  :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on October 06, 2010, 02:56:21 pm
John, a good rule of thumb, the way i look at places before i ve sussed out exactly what happens and generally speaking anywya is most beach breaks are heavier at low tide (the result of steeper sea bed) and most breaks are nicest on the dropping tide.
As i remember puts picks more swell (it seems to rap in quite well) and is really quite fast at low tide, woolacombe is more chilled and works ok right throughtout the whole tide, and doesnt change its character very much.
...i think, im sure Chris will put me right.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2010, 02:58:31 pm
AFAIK, Woolacombe is fine at any tide and I know Puts there are some rocks you can do with avoiding at high tide, but generally due to the big tide difference in the Bristol Channel, the N Devon Breaks are best surfed on a rising tide (the "push") as this can add half a foot or so to the swell size. So best conditions are most likely to be after the low tide, but if waves are big enough it's unlikely to make much difference.

But I can check Stormriders and make certain.

AFAIK. I think. I'm sure Granticus will put me right :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 06, 2010, 03:46:56 pm
Thanks Probes/Chris.  I'd checked Stormriders since I posted and it bears out all you've said about Woola and Puts (hey, look at me with the abbreviations).  Probably start at W till we find our feet and then maybe Widemouth and Saunton.  Hoping to do something more than stand up and come straight in this time  :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2010, 03:57:34 pm
Cool, trust you have been practising pop ups and swimming since the last time.

Best advice I can give for going down the line of the wave on your mal board is take off slightly sideways (esp if the wave is breaking steeply) look down the line where you want to go, and don't be shy to shuffle forward on the board once you are moving if you think the wave will leave you behind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 06, 2010, 04:02:10 pm
 
Cool, trust you have been practising pop ups and swimming since the last time.

Best advice I can give for going down the line of the wave on your mal board is take off slightly sideways (esp if the wave is breaking steeply) look down the line where you want to go, and don't be shy to shuffle forward on the board once you are moving if you think the wave will leave you behind.
:ang: 'course I have Chris  :whistle:

Yeah, all too familiar with that feeling of being left behind!  Tend to jump up too near the back of the board so that's something to work on.  Taking off on the angle - that's my target then  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 06, 2010, 05:12:58 pm
Big Whiteboard Wednesday: Tides (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVQwRCvI1HU#ws)

a serious of videos that are clear and helpful.

some other videos if you check the same guy on getting the angling technique right etc etc
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 06, 2010, 07:05:49 pm
Quote
Ermmmm, once again showing my ignorance.  I've picked up from a number of sources that some breaks work better at different stages of the tide.  So, is there a general rule here?

OK here is some local knowledge for you JH, to make your visit a winner :thumbsup:

The swell is good quality and gonna be pumping through from Thursday to Sunday looks like it'll disappear Monday.  The wind direction is perfect for everywhere as of Thursday morning and then stays that way for the whole weekend.  Friday and Sunday will be more beginner friendly in terms of size, Thursday and Saturday will be a bit bigger.

Tidal information,  BIG spring tides this weekend which makes a difference round here, on the ebb some of the life will be sucked out of the swell (could be useful on bigger days) and on the flow there'll be an extra foot or so.

On these big tides Croyde bay around low tide will be seriously heavy, rippy and breaking very shallow (I'd advise you steer well clear).  Mid to high tide will be mellower (always tends to be a tad bigger here than elsewhere esp. at low).

Wooly on a spring low will be breaking on shallow sand banks and quite heavy too.  Mid to high will be splendid and much more melow.

Putsborough best surfed mid to high, will be at least 1ft smaller than everywhere else, high tide will come right up the beach watch those rocks.  I doubt very much P-land will be heavy this weekend, it rarely gets heavy and is generally gutless mellow.  On the ebb the swell usually dies off unless it's really big..

Saunton will be fine at any stage of tide (mid to high being better) and is always a mellow wave ideal for starting out.

All of the above will be heaving this weekend although Saunton and Wooly are BIG beaches so you can walk away from the crowds.  Halfway down the beach between Wooly and Puts is usually quiet, good parking above the beach here then walk down through dunes.

Waccy Ho! Often overlooked, generally quieter, best surfed low to mid/three quarters (before the tide hits the pebble ridge).

Widemouth - is similar to Saunton (mellow mid to high is better) as you head west the waves tend to get bigger.  Low to mid tide beachies (Northcott, Duckpool, Sandymouth) north of Bude but still in Cornwall can all be supergood on their day (depends on sand banks/tides) and don't get as crowded.

You have picked a perfect time to come ;)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2010, 09:03:10 pm
sigh. I could really do with any of that shit right now. Looks like we have a weekend of onshores. maybe the wind might drop for a bit so we can "enjoy" some messy wind swell.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 07, 2010, 09:10:39 am
Cheers Granticus!  Brilliant surf round-up!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on October 07, 2010, 01:59:39 pm
The swell is definitely here, just surfed Porthtowan at lunchtime, 4ft with a strong offshore, really hollow and pumping!  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 07, 2010, 02:52:10 pm
No worries... 

Surfed Croyde on the backing tide, this morning before work, 2 to 4ft, strong offshores, barrels a plenty, got dropped in on by Lyndon Wake :spank: Kids!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 07, 2010, 03:28:18 pm
Luck bastards

Flat on east, nothing looking good for Scotland yet, (must be the worse TE season for years there has always been at least one or two good north coast swells by now, 2010 none) and no chance of getting down SW.

Funny how i can not surf for weeks in the summer and not be bothered but as soon as we have a good run of surf i want more and more and more.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 07, 2010, 03:49:37 pm
Big Swell dropping off!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 08, 2010, 08:08:15 am
This is very good


DARK SIDE OF THE LENS (http://vimeo.com/14074949)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 10, 2010, 10:18:50 pm
Fistral, took a wild wipeout, 120ft out back... clean up set, over 5ft... took the fist wave, made the bottom turn, started to slide out!!! gauged an early line... suffered wind chop as I blew up the wave and tried to hit the lip...ditched the board as I kicked out, got pitched and subsequently Drilled by the lip on impact!
I hit the bottom...
Leash wrapped round both legs...
Opened my eyes and saw the most amazing colour of green,
Pushed upward and went on spin cycle...
One of the most humbling experiences I have ever had, nothing but awe... three on the head!!!
Its been a great three or four days, sporting a Jim Morrison "Horse Latitude's" spray job on my W.E. 9.2 performance noserider!!!
Marrocco booked for the 18th! come on Anchors.


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 11, 2010, 01:42:27 am
its a beautiful feeling when you know your caught on the inside and shore side of your board after a wipe out.  First time i took a board to the head to day and thankfully wasnt that bad.  Its been a bit of a blowout here with some disgusting swells with nothing clean for a few days.  Hopefully tomorrows low tide/ change to the tide coming in will allow for some cleaner sets
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2010, 09:03:43 am
sporting a Jim Morrison "Horse Latitude's" spray job on my W.E. 9.2 performance noserider!!!

Pic?

Blown out shite here all weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 11, 2010, 05:27:47 pm
chris between two piers today the waves were beauts just after low tide, pumping session - should have wore gloves tho, my fingers felt like they were going to snap when i attempted to take the wetsuit off
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 12, 2010, 01:18:35 am
This is what we woke up to on Saturday morning BIG old pulse of swell, was gone and much more friendly by the evening though. (A friend got absolutely munched trying to duck dive one of these big sets), Sunday was super fun, nothing left today.  How'd it go JH? 

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/187683.jpg)
(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/187492.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 12, 2010, 10:22:54 am
This is what we woke up to on Saturday morning BIG old pulse of swell, was gone and much more friendly by the evening though. (A friend got absolutely munched trying to duck dive one of these big sets), Sunday was super fun, nothing left today.  How'd it go JH? 

Awesome Granticus.  ;D  Trouble is, it was WAYYYYY too big for me on Saturday, so I went to the dark side.  Took out the body board and fins and had great fun.  Back on the mini mal on sunday, caught a few, got dumped by a few.  Woolacombe had some excellent peaks, I'm just not good enough to be in the right place at the right time!  Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho  ::)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on October 12, 2010, 11:02:48 am
Is that Croyd Granticus?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2010, 11:39:32 am
  Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho  ::)

You got bikes with you? Head to the Quantocks!

Sponging might be seen as a backward step, but at least you got some time in with bigger surf - anything you learn regarding reading and catching bigger waves is good time spent IMO.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 12, 2010, 12:10:52 pm
Nice pics, have not been down to croyde for a while (if thats where it is) and usually have a good time. Cant see any crowds for once.

Your man in the pics needs to be hitting the brakes, for a little bit of heaven, although it does look like it might section well out in front of him. With surfing pics the camera can quite often lie.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 12, 2010, 05:30:10 pm
Yarp.. It is Croyde absolutely bone crunchingly pumping..

The wave did indeed section and close out way out in front of that goofy footed hero :whistle:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on October 12, 2010, 10:36:47 pm
This is what we woke up to on Saturday morning BIG old pulse of swell, was gone and much more friendly by the evening though. (A friend got absolutely munched trying to duck dive one of these big sets), Sunday was super fun, nothing left today.  How'd it go JH? 

Awesome Granticus.  ;D  Trouble is, it was WAYYYYY too big for me on Saturday, so I went to the dark side.  Took out the body board and fins and had great fun.  Back on the mini mal on sunday, caught a few, got dumped by a few.  Woolacombe had some excellent peaks, I'm just not good enough to be in the right place at the right time!  Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho  ::)

as a newbie middle aged sponger, of no ability.. that sounds ace.. I'm jealous
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on October 12, 2010, 10:50:11 pm
This is very good


DARK SIDE OF THE LENS (http://vimeo.com/14074949)

shit, yes...

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2010, 10:09:23 am
It's brilliant isn't it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 13, 2010, 12:23:21 pm
If you like it get the "from shadows" dvd. It was free with one of the rags earlier this year but i think you can buy it. One of the best DVDs for a while and the best UK and ireland one yet. ( not as good as litmus though but thats not purely ireland).

They seem a really genuine bunch of lads and i really hope its not all a load of marketing bullshit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 13, 2010, 12:54:36 pm

You'll probably like this too:

http://www.relentlessenergy.com/films/view/powers-of-three (http://www.relentlessenergy.com/films/view/powers-of-three)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2010, 01:14:00 pm
I got the powers of 3 one as a freebie a while back, not seen from shadows though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 13, 2010, 01:16:01 pm
Bored and Drunk again!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on October 13, 2010, 01:30:54 pm
The 4OD stream of Powers of Three (http://www.channel4.com/programmes/powers-of-three/) is slightly better quality than the Relentless version.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2010, 01:53:20 pm
But the free DVD is better than both!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on October 13, 2010, 02:11:53 pm
But the free DVD is better than both!

Quite, where does one obtain this free DVD from these days?

Live streaming of RIP Curl event in Portugal (http://live.ripcurl.com/PortugalLiveGB.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2010, 02:42:34 pm
One asks someone who owns it to do them a favour if one is that bothered :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 13, 2010, 05:23:01 pm
  Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho  ::)

You got bikes with you? Head to the Quantocks!

Sponging might be seen as a backward step, but at least you got some time in with bigger surf - anything you learn regarding reading and catching bigger waves is good time spent IMO.
Normally Chris, that'd be a given.  Love the biking in the Quantocks but too knackered after the weekend to do it justice!  Next time.  Agree with everything you say about sponging, (hey, new word!) trying to read the waves better.  Thinking of opting for a longer board next time in the hope I can catch waves earlier and stand more chance of staying in green water...
:-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 13, 2010, 05:37:18 pm
Agree with everything you say about sponging

(http://img.gameszombie.com/images/games/58750000.jpg)

 :-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: robertostallioni on October 13, 2010, 05:46:35 pm
Agree with everything you say about NSFW sponging (http://xxxmultik.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/spongebob_01.jpg)

.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 13, 2010, 10:29:04 pm
  Sitting in the cafe on tuesday morning looking at a millpond out there - hey ho  ::)

You got bikes with you? Head to the Quantocks!

Sponging might be seen as a backward step, but at least you got some time in with bigger surf - anything you learn regarding reading and catching bigger waves is good time spent IMO.
Normally Chris, that'd be a given.  Love the biking in the Quantocks but too knackered after the weekend to do it justice!  Next time.  Agree with everything you say about sponging, (hey, new word!) trying to read the waves better.  Thinking of opting for a longer board next time in the hope I can catch waves earlier and stand more chance of staying in green water...
:-\

I hear the biking on Exmoor is pretty special and for the most part unknown...  So if you are down this way, there maybe little point in heading back so far as Quantocks.. 

Back on topic...  Wave sense and being able to read the waves is crucial to succesful surfing.  Being able to predict where that lump you see out at sea will begin to break and putting yourself in the right spot is the key.  Also being able to recognise when a 'set' is approaching is useful, as is understanding how and when the wave will break.  These are dark arts that can only be aquired through experience.  Some things that might help, learning to bodysurf (no boards, no fins) gives you a real understanding of how waves break and it is also a very useful skill should your leash snap (as a point of safety you should be able to make your way back to shore without a board efficiently anyway).  Bodyboarding can also teach you a lot about timing and positioning on the wave (didn't Slater start out as a booger?).  Most surfers use 'line ups' to maintain a particular position in the ocean, this involves picking out landmarks in the distance and 'lining up' your position (for some reef breaks I have very specific line ups that I use to ensure that I'm in optimum position).  At a lot of breaks, including beachies, there will be indicators (somewhere further out that shows swell) that give away the fact that a set is coming.  Failing all of that just act like a sheep and follow around someone who seems to be a wave magnet, check out what they're looking at, when they start moving and how they seem to be intuitively predicting where the peak is...  Or you can just sit there waiting for the chance event of something coming your way and breaking in exactly the right spot, a friend calls this 'tea-bagging'!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 14, 2010, 12:35:03 am
anyone of the east coast massive had any luck over the last couple of days?
some disgusting ripples here that have no promise to surf.  Oh well dawn session tomorrow as the tides look right for the "4" foot predictions.  I'll be happy with anything clean.

On a positive note, i need a new shortboard.  I want a fish but im not sure.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 14, 2010, 07:30:25 am
I'm about to pick up my first shortboard - Super Evo 6'6''x20''x2 3/4 from Adrian at Fluid Juice; 380!

http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/pages/boardsbydesign.htm (http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/pages/boardsbydesign.htm)

Great guys. Super helpful and friendly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2010, 09:16:52 am
anyone of the east coast massive had any luck over the last couple of days?

No. Had a look this morning, and a wee pulse, but not enough east in it to do much for Aberdeen. Might be better down the coast.

Next week however (scratch chin).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on October 14, 2010, 09:19:30 am


I hear the biking on Exmoor is pretty special and for the most part unknown...  So if you are down this way, there maybe little point in heading back so far as Quantocks.. 

[/quote]
Not a big fan of Exmoor biking, but maybe I just haven't found the best trails.  Quantocks, on the other hand, are bloody brilliant and covered in great trails, worth the trip.....

....back on topic.  Thanks for all the advice Granticus.  I need to spend much more time in the water, it's as simple as that!  Beginning to spot the sets but putting myself where the wave is breaking, that's a work in progress....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2010, 09:37:04 am
Thinking of opting for a longer board next time in the hope I can catch waves earlier and stand more chance of staying in green water...

Well yes and no. If the waves are small and not breaking particularly steeply on a mellow beach break a longer board will mean earlier entry and longer "green" rides, but if the waves are bigger you will find it harder to get the board out, and if it is breaking steeply a longer board may be a bit slow unless you are getting it up to speed really early (are fit enough?) and will be harder to get into positon and will struggle with a steeper wave.

If i was you (personally) I would stick with the board you have in anything but small waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 14, 2010, 01:51:49 pm
I'm about to pick up my first shortboard - Super Evo 6'6''x20''x2 3/4 from Adrian at Fluid Juice; 380!

http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/pages/boardsbydesign.htm (http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/pages/boardsbydesign.htm)

Great guys. Super helpful and friendly.

Nice - Adrian made my Widowmaker (6'9") that I use for bigger days, great surfboards, great guy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 14, 2010, 03:45:30 pm
For anyone interested Slater just won again in Portugal which pretty much ties up this years world champs. Only injury or act of god could stop him now.

I love the comps and watch them all on the Web, much more exciting than any climbing comp.

Cant think of a sport where someone has dominated for so long, he has been winning titles since 1992 and pretty much holds the record for everything, youngest, oldest, most, highest score etc etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 14, 2010, 04:27:43 pm
Psyched. It's kinda like getting a POD sack from Pete when his workshop was still on Osberton Place or a jacket from Rab pre-retirement.

Amazing products from guys who know what they're on about and you can have a nice chat with.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2010, 07:53:18 pm
Cant think of a sport where someone has dominated for so long, he has been winning titles since 1992 and pretty much holds the record for everything, youngest, oldest, most, highest score etc etc.

No-one really compares. Just unbelievable.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 14, 2010, 10:15:34 pm
And he can count pamela Anderson and gisele amongst his many conquests.

Lucky lucky bastard
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 18, 2010, 12:00:38 am
along the lines of the board shaping industry, i was in your neck of the woods on saturday chris, well edinburgh but close enough.  Picked up a board from jason who makes them.  Its a 6'3 x 18 pin tail which seems much stronger than my old piece of shit spyder board. 
been shite all surf wise up here, bring on tuesday eve and wednesday?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 18, 2010, 09:36:12 am
Jason Burnett? Have had a look at a couple of his boards and they look like great quality. Will definitely get my next from him. Not the best at promoting himself though, only web setup he has is on Facebook.

This week could prove interesting, need to be mornings or lunchtime for me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 18, 2010, 10:09:06 am
Looks like it's your turn again east coasters, the whole week is looking interesting... enjoy.
Flatness has now resumed in the SW, this combined with small tides/good weather has meant that boulders at the tops of beaches have been in excellent condition :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 18, 2010, 02:44:30 pm
yep looks "interesting" on the reports.

http://magicseaweed.com/Sunderland-Surf-Report/25/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Sunderland-Surf-Report/25/)

wednesday im hoping to be off work so that i can spend all day getting amongst it.

Certainly a quality board chris, its thicker than my old one (in terms of strength) so hopefully wont snap.  I would defo recommend a board from him and he is a nice chap aswell, spent an hour in his shed looking at all the other boards he has been making/made and getting some history about the board and how it performs. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 18, 2010, 03:24:27 pm
I promised the missus a Flying Carpet from him last xmas and she hasn't been able to commit to colours etc yet, so order is currently on hold.

Where exactly is he based?

Shame Royal has moved down to the SW, his boards look great too, and he was based in the NE for a while.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_RZw5QqpEcAw/TJE4cuVIKgI/AAAAAAAABq4/KEwvoxRjK0I/s1600/jamiesfish2.jpg)

Time for a board pron thread?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 18, 2010, 05:16:37 pm
want to see the beaut i picked up?

he is based just south of edinburgh, better for me coming from the south.  it was like 2 miles from the centre.


ill get some pictures up and your correct - i dont know a shaper in le nord est.  :[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 18, 2010, 09:34:43 pm
want to see the beaut i picked up?


Yes please!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: InsanityWolf on October 20, 2010, 09:37:53 pm
Mullaghmore Head 05/10/2010 (http://vimeo.com/15691345)




......no idea how to imbed.... :shrug:


ah, never mind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 20, 2010, 11:14:10 pm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55012374@N04/5100117117/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/55012374@N04/5100117117/#)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55012374@N04/5100714020/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/55012374@N04/5100714020/#)

beautiful board.

Today in sunderland was incredible.  Only bad thing was the fucking northern current washing everything down the beach at an alarming rate.

Heres a pic i took when i got out, the black things near the left of the middle,  inbetween the two waves are surfers.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55012374@N04/5100719734/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/55012374@N04/5100719734/#)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 21, 2010, 08:59:56 am
It is lovely, he does great resin tints. Did you get it custom made for you?

Aberdeen was nothing like that, not that I had any time to get in anyway. Maybe weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 21, 2010, 02:24:05 pm
Two days of great surf on east coast this week. Big and a bit rangey yesterday but spent a good 6 hours in the water.

Bit of an epic surfing a new slab we found when in our excitement we neglected to check out how we intended to exit the water at the end of the session. This ended up with me not getting it all quite right whilst trying to paddle against a rip to get to a gap in the rocks 10ft wide. This didnt happen and i ended up ditching my board and getting pounded into the rocks before managing to grab onto something and crawl out. Board is now minus two fins and has a big hole in the bottom. It got to the point where my normally piss taking mates (who hadnt had the balls to try in the first place) stopped laughing and started to look concerned.

Got up early this morning to find swell has dropped to 2-3 ft but still had shoulder high barrels on my favorite lump of rock. (despite changing sports i still fine myself infatuated with lumps of rock). Got a good couple of hours in before i had to get back to work.

A friend had a camera in the water and took this shot of me. I dont know how to paste it on here (despite reading the "how to put pics " post) but heres a link.
Only wish she had taken it a second latter for the full effect. (good 3 sec barrel but unfortunatley clipped on exit)


http://www.flickr.com/photos/55020227@N03/5101564913/# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/55020227@N03/5101564913/#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 21, 2010, 03:37:10 pm
Good arrows! really annoys me that the same swell and the same coast you get nice barrels we get dribbly piss.

Another wierdo cack footer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 21, 2010, 04:10:52 pm
Only foot to have at the front of your board when you live on the east coast.

I am a complete spazz going right as the only time i do is TE a few times a winter. There are a few rights around here but they all work on the same swells as the real waves so i never ride them.

I do keep questioning why every boat trip i go on we go to the only bit of Indo where its predominately rights.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 21, 2010, 04:28:33 pm
Just got in from some amazing steep waves that were pristine. Wind off the land ruined any barrels and I was the only one in the water all day.  Getting used to the new board but still feel that every wave I fall off/ miss/ clumsy feet frustrates me in this sea of endless beauties.  Tomorrow with less wind should have 6-7 ft with clean barrels. 
I know where I'll be all day tomo.

And no chris it was one of his own boards - it was only 150 and I wouldn't have change the dimensions if I was to get it custom to me.

GME that sounds like a right nightmare, I'll try find a video of what it reminds me of
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 21, 2010, 05:03:33 pm
Found it,

dangerous entrance and exit for surfing in Uluwatu Bali 2008 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlLG0_Mhzt8#)

id be shit scared. 
And todays surf made me question some of my technique/ability.  Paddle strength on a short board and fatigue mixed with shit duck diving left me feeling so weak yesterday.  Today i was starting to feel the same when i was drifting in a rip and the offshore winds.
My pop up is no where near good enough, most of the time im like stevie wonder. 
at least my wave selection seems to be fine tho
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 21, 2010, 06:10:43 pm
Kinda similar but yesterday was a lot worse. Had it been filmed it would have been a you tube classic.

And thank god for wetsuits or i would have died from blood loss.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 22, 2010, 04:37:25 pm
Few more pics from wednesday.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55020227@N03/with/5105219384/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/55020227@N03/with/5105219384/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 22, 2010, 04:38:59 pm
Forgot to mention that the jerry in the pics is the Jerry of climbing yore.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 22, 2010, 06:24:05 pm
Nice one Gav - looks great  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2010, 08:32:01 pm
Forgot to mention that the jerry in the pics is the Jerry of climbing yore.

Peel?

Looks great.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 22, 2010, 08:44:06 pm
Philo:

Try this a couple times a week.

10 Pullups on a bar or board
20 Dumbell OH squats
30 24" Box Jumps (or jumps onto a bench)
40 Pressups full ROM (Chest on floor to full lock)
50 Situps
60 Burpees with jumping clap
10 Pullups on a bar or board

For time.. e.g. against the clock.  Should take between 10 and 20 minutes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 22, 2010, 08:50:57 pm
It's called 'Those Burpees Suck' and is brilliant training for surfing (in addition to spending the time surfing and lots of time in the pool of course)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on October 24, 2010, 10:40:27 pm
Looking for some opinions on my first shortboard, I've picked up the basics, getting out at least twice a week when there are waves. Currently surfing a nice 7' 3" glass mini mal, almost exclusively here in N.Wales.
Bearing in mind the waves we get up here and my ability (or lack of it...) I'm looking at the6' 3" 'Fourth Speedfish' and the 6' 4" 7's 'Superfish'
At the moment the Fourth big plus is being a British company, etc (not sure about 7's)
The 7's big plus seems to be the rails.
Otherwise there doesn't seem to be much in it and both seem ideal for my usage.

If anyone have any opinions/first hand experience of these boards or any other advice it would be welcomed.

Thanks in advance
Jon
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 25, 2010, 12:01:32 am
going to a shorter board for me was a revelation.  I find it a lot easier on steeper/slabby waves and the control is amazing. 
You have to look at what waves you are going to be riding.  What's the other dimensions of the board? width, thickness etc!

Some here will offer a lot better advice than me tho
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 25, 2010, 09:35:32 am
Are there any shapers in N Wales?

I think both makers just go for the mass produced option anyway, so one being British is not much of an advantage  if it's not being shaped for you.

And what's special about the 7's rails?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 25, 2010, 09:40:01 am
East coast looks good today, btw. Aberdeen has good groundswell and offshire winds. And I am at sodding work.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on October 25, 2010, 10:40:11 am
Fourth make pretty much all their boards here in the UK and use a human to shape them, I think the 7's are all mass produced in Thailand

The 7's edges have incuts that help in turn like a shorter board (apparently).

Both boards are pretty thick and volumus for their size, about 36l for the 7'3 but still relatively thin at the edges so a good short board for our waves up here and my ability level.

I'm interested to hear from anyone who has one of these in their quiver or surfs with anyone who does. Both seem to do pretty much the same thing so an opinion here or there could swing it.

I wouldn't get a shaper to make me one for a while until I'm experienced enough to know exactly what I want.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 25, 2010, 10:56:11 am
you got links to the boards?

From googling, the 7 seems to have a similar plan shape to my Bilt "Bullet Fish" although mine has only got a thruster fin setup. FWIW, I found mine to be a great board to progress from a minimal with. It has a fair bit of volume in the middle and fairly tapered rails which make it a bit unstable when popping up, but easier to get a rail in and turn. At the time I got tit though I had been riding the minimal exclusively for about 4 years, gwetting in the water a lot and riding it in anything from dribbly crap to shoulder / head high ish.

Thing is whether or not or not someone on here owns or has ridden one of the two boards is pretty much irrelevant unless they are exactly the same size, weitht and ability as you are.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 25, 2010, 07:30:42 pm
Looks like you've had some stunning sessions oop north, great piccies GME and great tale about getting thrashed exiting said slab. :thumbsup:  Have witnessed some guys getting into similar trouble at Lyndaka whilst I was out bouldering, 3 smashed up boards, several lost fins and 3 x battered egos...

It's our turn now, have a few days off work and the charts are looking super strong to get my favourite left. :bounce:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 26, 2010, 01:39:31 am
bored on youtube and came across this,
tarp surfing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6-vb20srZI#)

i particularly found the dog tow in funny
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 26, 2010, 09:42:49 am
Seen before, great.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 26, 2010, 11:32:18 am
That's brilliant (and actually looks fun  :-[ )
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 26, 2010, 11:45:31 am
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-pacific-11626242 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-pacific-11626242)

7.5 richter scale Earthquake in the Mentawai Islands last night.  23 dead already confirmed. 100's missing.   :(

The charter boat Southern Cross is currently missing and the Midas was carried 200m onshore from its anchorage at Macaroni's and burst into flames - all crew and guests went overboard and got picked up OK. Apparently the southern islands of the chain are in a really bad way.

Surfaid http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-pacific-11626242 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-pacific-11626242) will no doubt get an aid initiative moving quickly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 26, 2010, 02:32:55 pm
Are there any shapers in N Wales?

O'Shea
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 26, 2010, 04:13:41 pm
Really? I thought theirs were all factory made.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 26, 2010, 04:36:26 pm
been an excellent couple of days.  Today there was fuck all swell.  Nothing for the next few days either.  Hows it been up north chris?
Checking charts and forecasts and its looking grim again
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 26, 2010, 09:00:01 pm
Sunday am was good, Monday looked excellent all day, today shite. And due to sick child and too much going on at work I have seen fuck all of it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 27, 2010, 03:20:43 pm
Further to Falling downs earlier email here is a link to Surf Aids site with more info on the problems in the Mentawais. Feel free to donate if you can.

http://www.surfaidinternational.org/media/news.html#Mentawai_Earthquake (http://www.surfaidinternational.org/media/news.html#Mentawai_Earthquake)

I have seen what Surf aid does out there and without it the area would get pretty much no outside help at all. This area of the world is really only visited by surfers and its surf aid and surfers who are on the ground first. Through surf aid the area now has basic medical facilities which were pretty much non existant 10 years ago.

Its pretty humbling and a little embarrassing to see how these people live (survive) whilst you sit aboard your 2000.00 per 10 day trip charter boat and therefore upsetting when mother nature fucks them over yet again, that's why i have supported Surf Aid every year since my first trip there in 2004.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 28, 2010, 09:12:27 pm
Get's grimmer as each day goes by..  :(

The good thing about the boat trips and the resorts has been SurfAid.  I can't remember the stats that Dave told us about child life expectancy changing over the last decade due to malaria education and basic healthcare but they were mightily impressive.  If the boats and SurfAid weren't out in the islands then the death toll would have been much higher and it's unlikely to have made the international news in the way that it has.

On a brighter tip, here's an interesting interview with Fletcher Chouinard http://www.patagonia.com.au/journal/?p=809 (http://www.patagonia.com.au/journal/?p=809)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 28, 2010, 11:35:15 pm
was on jasons profile looking at new board pictures when i came across this:


(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs125.ash2/39594_481722041487_518136487_7384918_9148_n.jpg)


Caught of the east coast of scotland i do believe!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2010, 09:34:39 am
Looks like a porbeagle, aka gay shark.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 29, 2010, 01:25:11 pm
There are a lot of big toothy critters in our seas, and probs even more than we know about.

If you look on youtube there is footage of a shark similar size to that at Blyth pier last summer. It was hooked by a kid fishing for mackrel.i am sure his story will be recounted many a time in the future.

A rally big thresher shark was landed at scarborough a few years back that was 14 ft long and weighed 500lbs. It was caught in salmon nets only a few hundred meters from a well known surf spot.

Then at the end of last year an enormous sperm whale (they said it was a juvenile but it was very large) washed up on reef local to me. i would have shat myself had we been in the water when it turned up.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 29, 2010, 02:11:01 pm
same here, I get the shivers everytime some seaweed touches my foot, imagine watching any of the above come anywhere near you?

As i surf mainly alone it would make the situation worse!

Its a weird place the uk coast line, im going to do some youtubing, thanks gme :/

also, went out today for a good 2 hours going as far north to as far south looking for some sign of swell/sheltered location to get some of the potential waves i was seeing.  Not one spot tho, so choppy off the wind.  Im going to go out again in another couple of hours.  Hopefully with the rising tide it might be ridable.  ffs i just want an hour of anything, 4 ft shit one wave in a 30 minute set, anything. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2010, 03:02:10 pm
Of all the places in the world where you worry that you might get snacked on, the North Sea is pretty low on your list.

We used to go sponging in rivermouths in the Transkei when we were kids, not knowing the guys casting rods a hundred yards down the beach where fishing for sharks.

North Sea you are more likely to die from hypothermia, camlylobacter infection or industrial pollution in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2010, 03:26:34 pm
Or drown...  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2010, 03:50:08 pm
Can do that anywhere!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 29, 2010, 03:52:06 pm
Sandsend/Saltburn tomorrow - worth a look? Forecast mediocre.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 29, 2010, 03:55:02 pm
Dunno about forecast for down your way, but I think earlier the better is the way to go here. I'm aiming for SSE facing, but sheltered from S winds.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on October 29, 2010, 03:57:37 pm
Scary shark! Last summer i was having a dusk session at gwenvor with a mate and up popped a fin no more than 30 feet away and a shadow maybe some 20-25 feet long.. my mate sussed straight away but i didnt, i absolutley shat my pants...like full on panic, embarrassing screaming etc lol. it was a basking shark. Really cool in hindsight to think we were so close to such an amazing animal. Could have lamped my mate for not telling me tho sooner... bastard
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 29, 2010, 04:05:29 pm
inside sunderland pier looked reasonable but fucking wind ruined it.  Tomorrow looks disgusting for the north easters barron. 

and your right regarding the sharks and the north sea pollution.  Infact, i nearly got taken out by an assembly of lobster/crab pots and alot of heavy rope that came over a huge wave (that i was not going for) about a week or two ago.  I tried to drag it into the shore as it was only waist deep.  If anything the curiosity MMMM free lobster anyone?

Alas i couldn't even move it an inch, it was so heavy.  Couldn't see any blue diamonds in the pots either.  Double shitter
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 29, 2010, 10:47:50 pm
One fins safe... Two bad!
Pumping, with strong offshore.
3-5 ft...
tomorrows better?
 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on October 30, 2010, 12:18:04 am
Laird Hamilton Longboard (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGrlKugEFu4#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2010, 02:49:19 pm
it was a basking shark.

I've surfed Muizenburg with Southern Right Whales and dolphins just beyond the line up. On the edge of False Bay you learn your fin recognition very quickly. At least they have fulltime shark spotters on the cliffs there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 30, 2010, 05:35:10 pm
I can remember surfing Muzenburg thinking "what are all those boats doing out there" as there was a constant stream of boats heading out and back from a spot about 3/4 mile out.
The next day we found out its the big tourist shark cage diving area. Not so keen on that spot now.
The week after i surfed a spot at Knysna on my own in really nice conditions thinking this is nice. Only realised why it was empty when when me and Mrs GME went to a bar on the front that night and they were having a collection to raise money for the body boarder who had lost his leg the day before. South African surfing was not as great as i thought from that point onwards.
Still went in every day though.

This was in 1998 when there was 15 attacks, the worst ever year. i was there for three weeks and there were five whilst i was there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on November 01, 2010, 06:51:22 pm
any ideas where to be this week.? got tuesday, wednesday, thurs and poss friday- a car full of fuel and a tasty 6 2. What are options like around thurso if it really is 25ft!as per msw
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 01, 2010, 07:11:06 pm
I think cage diving must at least be partially to blame for the increase in attacks? Especially when they chum and tie bits of fish to the cages

The week after i surfed a spot at Knysna on my own in really nice conditions thinking this is nice.

Was that Buffel's Bay? Apparently notoriously sharky, first time i tried stand up surfing was there, with HK Stuey and his brother.

Parents have now moved to George so Victoria Bay is conveniently close by.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on November 02, 2010, 07:33:50 am
any ideas where to be this week.? got tuesday, wednesday, thurs and poss friday- a car full of fuel and a tasty 6 2. What are options like around thurso if it really is 25ft!as per msw

dont you ever work?  :P

somehow, somewhere... you made some very bright career choices
 :wall:


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on November 02, 2010, 03:32:34 pm
Ha Ha, Fat Doc i lead a spartan and monastic life.......some would call me a mercenary. I prefer locum. Serves a purpose at the mo, plenty of free time, little commitment. However i do sometimes crave a little routine, regular income, regular working hours and the trappings of a 'normal' life.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 02, 2010, 03:43:15 pm
fuck that, im surfing all i can and teaching when i have to.
I want to move to Australia in a few years hopefully to teach..... anyone here for the free accommodation on the gold coast?  Thats realistically where I want to go.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 02, 2010, 11:54:30 pm
Andy Irons died today, missed his heats in Puerto due to a fever, died in Dallas en route back to Hawaii. RIP
 :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 03, 2010, 07:50:21 am
Shocking and sad news, Andy Irons dies at 32  :(  http://blogs.surfermag.com/office-blog/breaking-news-andy-irons-passes-away/ (http://blogs.surfermag.com/office-blog/breaking-news-andy-irons-passes-away/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 03, 2010, 08:49:10 am
Shit, can hardly believe it. RIP.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on November 03, 2010, 09:18:18 am
Bloody hell, that is shocking. RIP.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on November 03, 2010, 12:42:20 pm
.... anyone here for the free accommodation on the gold coast?  Thats realistically where I want to go.

Gold Coast is a hideous over-developed shit-hole with way to many "bogans!" Try further south in New South Wales or somewhere that's still fit for human habitation.


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on November 03, 2010, 01:37:57 pm
Jeez thats tragic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on November 03, 2010, 01:57:53 pm
Central coast man..... great waves far enough away from sydney, good choice reefs, beachies and epic points when the light up. Busy like everywhere in aus, with 11yr old super groms padding in to every wave going- but there are tons of mid week waves cool..ish locals and good weather.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 03, 2010, 04:35:07 pm
RIP indeed.

Andy Irons - i surf because short film (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uwtqRBE4Kk#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 03, 2010, 04:41:31 pm
had a surprisingly good session today in the east coast, 3ft shallow barrels and steep slabs made my day as i had it all to myself.  Hurt my wrist on Monday night so each pop up hurt (but it was worth it)
Shared my line up with a seal at the end of my session, i nearly shit myself when i saw it beside me a few metres away.  With recent posts in here regarding the critters in the sea, i fell off my board when sitting for the set to come in when i seen it.  Brilliant moment tho, beautiful creature and it was fucking big.  Just popped its head up and sat there for a few mins.

Because they were super clean waves today i could really slow down my thought process when i was surfing and i wondered, am i the only wrongly wired surfer out there?

I am left handed but play cricket/golf right handedly.
I am right footed but surf/board goofy.   :shrug:

bit of a long post but im so stoked from a session that on paper was looking to be so shit and I thought I had more chance of winning takeshis castle than getting a good 3 hours of bliss today.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 03, 2010, 08:42:13 pm
I surf and snowboard regular and am left footed.
Write left handed and throw left handed but do (almost) everything else righthanded.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on November 03, 2010, 08:58:19 pm
Central coast man..... great waves far enough away from sydney, good choice reefs, beachies and epic points when the light up. Busy like everywhere in aus, with 11yr old super groms padding in to every wave going- but there are tons of mid week waves cool..ish locals and good weather.

 :agree:
Not a surfer myself but all the surfers I know down here (Victorian surf coast area) spend time up on that coast at every possible chance.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Carnage on November 03, 2010, 09:43:17 pm
Central coast man..... great waves far enough away from sydney, good choice reefs, beachies and epic points when the light up. Busy like everywhere in aus, with 11yr old super groms padding in to every wave going- but there are tons of mid week waves cool..ish locals and good weather.

 :agree:
Not a surfer myself but all the surfers I know down here (Victorian surf coast area) spend time up on that coast at every possible chance.


Still full of bogans tho. My missus is a Coastie and everytime we go back, she's astounded by the increase since she grew up there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on November 03, 2010, 10:06:48 pm
 :agree: :agree: too true...... crime is indeed a problem- but as waves go not a bad spot
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on November 03, 2010, 10:18:52 pm
I surf and snowboard regular and am left footed.
Write left handed and throw left handed but do (almost) everything else righthanded.

I think there is no rhyme or reason to it, I snowboard goofy and skate and surf regular, how does that work!

I don't think hand dominance has much of an affect. I think either one foot forward or t'other feels intuitively right. Saying that some hard graft and persistance can reap massive benefits in the 'switch' dept. I reckon most pro snowboarders and skaters are pretty comfortable both ways, surfing's probably not too far off, it would be pretty handy surfing on one's forehand on lefts and rights :)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 04, 2010, 08:56:20 am
I actually enjoy the difference between surfing front and backhand. Backhand is definitely harder, but satisfying to do.

Can't snowboard switch very well at all, although I suspect my setup is partially to blame.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on November 04, 2010, 10:07:37 am
I actually enjoy the difference between surfing front and backhand. Backhand is definitely harder, but satisfying to do.

Can't snowboard switch very well at all, although I suspect my setup is partially to blame.

Yep a good backhand barrel feels sublime
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 04, 2010, 04:22:45 pm
checking the forecast for the weekend.  YYFY cant fucking wait.
east coasters are going to be smiling hopefully.  Cant wait to get on some thick heavy waves with this board. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on November 04, 2010, 05:39:00 pm
Andy Irons died today, missed his heats in Puerto due to a fever, died in Dallas en route back to Hawaii. RIP
 :'(

His wife is 7 months pregnant too. Horrible.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 04, 2010, 07:23:57 pm
checking the forecast for the weekend.  YYFY cant fucking wait.
east coasters are going to be smiling hopefully. 

Don't fucking jinx it!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 04, 2010, 07:25:22 pm
clm are you back from your trip yet?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 04, 2010, 07:27:13 pm
checking the forecast for the weekend.  YYFY cant fucking wait.
east coasters are going to be smiling hopefully. 

Don't fucking jinx it!
Nevermind the weekend, check the storm that's gonna hit Monday...  14.5ft swell with direct offshores on the ND coast.  Good job I'm away on training coz if that does hit, it's gonna be ridiculous!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 04, 2010, 10:08:21 pm
Jinxed now. But not much to jinx though.  Msw optomisim as usual.
I think we will get a plesent 1-2footer on Sunday then blown out shite for Monday and Tuesday
may get something better later in the week but don't hold your breath.
I would bet a good bit of money there will be no thick heavyness at all.

Hope I am wrong. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on November 06, 2010, 11:34:28 am
(http://[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/54268096@N05/5151001922/][img]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1085/5151001922_2a09ff657c_b.jpg)[/url]
IMG_1651 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/54268096@N05/5151001922/#) by curlyben1 (http://www.flickr.com/people/54268096@N05/), on Flickr[/img]

summer holiday pics
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on November 06, 2010, 11:36:43 am
oh dear thought i had this embedding of photos wired...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 06, 2010, 11:41:23 am
oh dear thought i had this embedding of photos wired...

Flickr restrict embedding if you have set the licensing to tight. If you set it as CC rather than 'all rights reserved' it should let you get the link.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 06, 2010, 05:46:49 pm
had a shit day today, slow crap waves with 2 jet ski wankers quite near me. 
It got alot worse when i got out and went to get my key....
it wasnt there! what the fuck, did I leave it in my pocket? I hope not, oh no! both sets of keys locked in my car but I could have swore i hid one? If i did hide one and it is no longer there, and my car is still here, does it mean someone has picked it up?  Started to get a little worried as I had 0 phone, getting cold and no sign of my key when I circle my car.
Managed to get some bloke to ring my bro and he came with clothes and a towel for me.  By the time he came I had been out of the water for over 40 minutes.  It was 6 and in the shade. 
Dried myself off and we talked about the possibilities, smash a back window? Get the AA to come and break in?  Then i seen further down the road, a small boy pick something from on top of the bin - my fucking key.

in hindsight i need a better place to stash/keep my key (i have 2 electronic ones)

Happy ending at least.  Anyone got plans for tomorrow?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 06, 2010, 06:23:10 pm
Just got in from a great afternoon bouldering at Ramshaw to watch Slater win his 10th World Title live on t'interweb.. amazing.  I'd just brought my own board and started surfing properly around the time he won his first one and it seems a long, long time ago.  Just incredible that he has managed to stay on top for nearly twenty years... amazing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 06, 2010, 10:09:56 pm
Amazing. Watched him win the 10th then go on to win the event as well getting a ten point ride in the final.
Anyone who is interested in competion of any kind cannot fail to be impressed by Kelly slaters career.
Had a great day at kyloe then a great evening watching this plus bonus of a swell tomorrow so dawny in the morning hopefully feeling like king Kelly
unfortunatly the bottle of wine I have consumed may hinder my performance.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 07, 2010, 12:56:37 am
where you off to GME? i think sunderland will be rammed tomorrow.  Might try seaham beach where i know i will be the only one there.  dawnie at sunderland then prob go to seaham if 50 get in
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on November 07, 2010, 07:08:07 am
clm are you back from your trip yet?
Yeah, was back for start of school year (funny that). It was awesome. To be honest i had my best surfing in oz though did catch one riduculously long ride in indo. By the time i was in indo i was getting font elbow and font shoulders from all the paddling. Not used to the long paddles to the reefs and the massive currents to fight to stay at the shoulder. Quite intimidating at times. Right shoulder still crunchy!
By the way, anyone got recommendations for northumberland? Staying in seahouses next weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 07, 2010, 09:15:34 am
Bamburgh looks promising, picks up any swell going. If there's any more the breaks at Beadnell are right in front of the gites. Psyched!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2010, 02:21:24 pm
Seahouses itself apparently gets surf, As JB says Bamburgh is a good bet.
Just had an ace dawnie. Frost on the ground, but nice clean swell, sunny and no wind. Very quiet initially, 6 in the water, but it got busier as it got shitter, and by the time the SUP guys arrived we decided it was fry up time.

Randomly, my mate met Mike Tyson on the beach as he was getting out, got Go Pro footage to prove it!

Desk Jockey @ Nigg Nov 7th 2010 (I met Mike Tyson too) (http://vimeo.com/16584240)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 07, 2010, 04:14:54 pm
hahahaha thats brilliant!
He could have asked mike to pretend to knock his head off tho in a staged scene on the beach.

also had an amazing cold dawnie chris, bit small but decent.  Got back in again in the noon (about 2) and again some really clean sweet lefts and odd freak waves.  Only a handful in.
Best day in a long time
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2010, 07:06:38 pm
Would have liked to get in again later, but wind had swung southerly and the only spot locally which works at springtides and southerlies is too sheltered to get much of this swell. Plus TBH I was a bit knackered and had to be daddy daycare.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 09, 2010, 12:42:25 am
Its been on down here all week and its getting hectic!
Variable size and conditions!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 09, 2010, 08:11:57 am
You not in Morocco then?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 09, 2010, 12:38:37 pm
Decent swell at Hells Mouth today. Strong offshores though.

(http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/daily_photos/middle.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 09, 2010, 01:06:15 pm
You not in Morocco then?
Most of my stuff is...
I am to and fro from there!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Percy B on November 09, 2010, 10:14:00 pm
http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/ireland/2010/1109/1224282943520.html (http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/ireland/2010/1109/1224282943520.html)

 :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on November 09, 2010, 10:49:27 pm
some vid of it on the local news tonight

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00c2fyd (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00c2fyd)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 10, 2010, 10:15:54 am
Funny how they report it as one person. Who miraculously switches from regulary to goofy and back mid session.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: roddersm on November 10, 2010, 10:55:05 am
Some more videos from the rte site http://www.rte.ie/news/2010/1109/surfing.html (http://www.rte.ie/news/2010/1109/surfing.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 10, 2010, 04:37:33 pm
riding goof on the east coast when the sun is out and low (like today) is a complete bastard.
beautiful waves here today, i could no way ride a big fucker like that on the irish vid. amazing
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 10, 2010, 07:22:32 pm
I took one left on Sunday morning and was completely blinded!

Nice here as well, sadly at work. Spent a frustrating 15 mins trying to get some shots of a guy surfing at Nigg, most frustrating when he pulled back on just about every wave he paddled for.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 10, 2010, 09:01:19 pm
Pull back = back of the queue in our group. Followed by ridicule for the rest of the session.

Best waves are the ones you never thought you would make.

I only do lefts (to the extent that i cant even get barrelled backside on the video game on my phone) and dont have a problem with the sun often.

Usually because its pissing down and cloudy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 10, 2010, 09:28:51 pm
haha brilliant, im only doing lefts at the moment too on my new board.  tried a few rights but i end up going down the line then turning and not had the right wave to make this enjoyable.
Where you been GME? bashing around Yorkshire way? 

Thinking of some south facing shelter for tomorrow but the wind is forecast to be disgusting. 

im surfing more than I am bouldering these days.  Anyone wearing a hood yet?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on November 11, 2010, 12:18:57 am

Quote
Anyone wearing a hood yet?/quote]

As of last session, albeit in an on/off/on/off/on/off/off kind of way
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2010, 09:21:26 am
Pull back = back of the queue in our group. Followed by ridicule for the rest of the session.

Wish he was back of the queue, but was only bod in the water. Had a look at the shots last night, would have been good if he's got on the wave, light was amazing.

I'm wearing hood, to protect ears more than anything else. Keep it down most of the time if waves are small and it sunny and not windy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 11, 2010, 10:02:30 am
I have been hooded for a few weeks now. Pull it down a bit now and again but its pretty much up most of the time.
I used to hate them and fight through the ice cream head aches up until december but i found out it was only because my hood was shite. The built in hoods on modern suits are totally comfortable and dont restrict you at all.
Gloves are in state of flux at the minute depending on the wind.

Philo. Just been around my local spots north of you. Have missed a couple of sessions due o work though. Even missed a surf last saturday to go bouldering which has been unheard of for sometime.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2010, 10:24:30 am
Agree. got a XCEL Polypro rashie with built in hood and it's a million times better than separate hoods or twat caps.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 11, 2010, 01:26:10 pm
picked up a hood actually from sids surf shack through newcastle and had a bit of a chat with him.  He said he has been going to blyth and avoiding tynemouth etc.  I wouldnt mind a trip to bamburough or blyth someday, spoke to chris too about some sort of UKB meet for surfing/ non local abuse some time in the future.
I was getting ice cream head yesterday and I think I need to start wearing my hood. 
(last winter I never bothered all winter)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 11, 2010, 01:56:52 pm
There'll be a few of us round Bamburgh/ Beadnell this weekend if you're about...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 11, 2010, 01:57:36 pm
Blyth is a shit hole. (power station, coal mine, alcan aluminium smelter). Only worth going there on Northerly winds as it gives a bit of shelter. If your getting in the car you might as well keep going.

Waves on all of the beaches in northumberland to various degrees. Bamburgh picks up most swell but needs light winds, water is super clear unlike further south. Embelton can be good too.
All the main spots are in the various guidebooks.

The best spots are not, but be nice, dont come with a crowd and one of the locals may tip you a wink.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 11, 2010, 02:02:59 pm
Bam should have a small wave Sat. Sunday looks like bad winds.

I probably wont be surfing as it looks really small and i have the kids all weekend. Dont like to use up my passes when the surfs not great.

If you want to surf sunday try ansteads bay just to the south of seahouses. Park by the golf clubhouse and walk from there directly to the sea. You should get a bit of shelter from the wind there but it will be small.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 11, 2010, 02:08:51 pm
Nice one, good knowledge. We're staying at Annsteads farm so that should be handy!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 11, 2010, 02:16:07 pm
aye cheers for that, i never surf with a crowd anyways. Normally a solo rider.  Might just get a map out and keep going north checking various locations.  Im keen for some clean water, sunderlands brown disgusting walls of filth are the norm, and inside the pier when the tide is going out and the river filters in is shocking. 
Similarly there's a spot south of me that is a bit of a horseshoe bay, filled full of coal (the waste of coal) but i've seen some super waves.  Think i need to have a paddle out in low tide to see whats below the surface of the water though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2010, 02:46:03 pm
Beadnell may be worth a look too. Some setups there that look to have potential.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 11, 2010, 06:40:04 pm
Hoods etc.
Dont forget earplugs....  you can choose to wear them or not, but I strongly recommend  anyone surfing in the UK to do so.

My right ear canal is 50% closed and the left 30% closed through Surfers Ear (google it if you havent heard of it).  Ive been in and out of the water since I was a kid swimming, windsurfing and then surfing but never thought I would have spent enough time in the sea to be at risk but I was diagnosed with it when I had a hearing test for my offshore survival training.
You might think you dont surf enough to fall prey but even irregular weekend warriors can succumb. 

Dave and I were in Ireland a few years back with Jason and one evening we were discussing the virtues of various plugs and he was of the opinion that he hadnt been surfing long or regularly enough.  Two days later hes at the Drs with an infection and the Doc tells him he has surfers ear too.

Mine are pretty bad now and I missed three days of the Indo trip with an infection.  Im sure my labyrinthitis is associated with it too.   I have to wear plugs all the time now, even when swimming in the pool.

Dave might be along to add his two penneth.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on November 11, 2010, 06:47:40 pm
Good warning FD, hadn't realised what a big problem surfers ear is until recently. What are your recommended ear plugs?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on November 11, 2010, 08:01:40 pm
Dave might be along to add his two penneth.

Thought I'd add my two penneth. Exactly the same problem, have been surfing for years and years, ~50% coverage in both ears.  Have stopped it getting worse over the last 10 years using plugs, well worth it as the operation isn't very nice.  If i ever go in the water without them now my ears hurt afterwards.

Re: best plugs, I've used blu-tac for the last 4-5 years, works a treat and if you lose a plug then you just squeeze another one outta the pack..

whats all this talk of hoods and winter suits eh, still hanging on in my summer suit down here in kernow..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2010, 08:28:41 pm
Blutac is Ok, but I can never get it to stick in my ears and always lose it mid session. Plus it's not too good if you want to talk to anyone in the water.

I got a set of vented proplugs, and never had them fall out, and can still hear. Worth getting the first pair fitted, you can get them from Amazon if you want more than one pair, or lose them http://brdistribution.co.uk/acatalog/Docs_Pro_Plugs.html (http://brdistribution.co.uk/acatalog/Docs_Pro_Plugs.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 11, 2010, 08:58:19 pm
I never wear plugs and never have.  I guess this is a very real issue and these plugs could help.  Chris what's the difference between a "medium" and "large" plug. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 11, 2010, 09:07:31 pm
I use the soft silicone ear putty blobs that you squish into the ear.. Can't remember the name of the manufacturer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on November 12, 2010, 08:37:25 am
Chris what's the difference between a "medium" and "large" plug.

is that a real question?
blu tac stays in if you work it and warm it up a bit before putting in your ears..  I agree those Docs plugs are good, I just lost a couple years ago and it started getting expensive
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2010, 08:39:45 am
Chris what's the difference between a "medium" and "large" plug.

The large is bigger than the medium.

Actually hard to say which will fit unless you go for a fitting. A music shop near us is a distributor, they had a measuring kit there.

FD I've got some of the silicone stuff at home, can check name. Like Blutac it falls out of my ear. Guess I have odd shaped ears.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 12, 2010, 09:41:45 am
I have never used ear plugs and have not had a problem with my ears. However as one by one my mates develop it i cant help but think i should.

It is one of the reasons i keep my hood up a lot more than before as i think its as much to do with the cold wind as the water. Plus if your hoods a good fit it keeps water out of your ears.

I do think that some people are more suseptable than others. I have never had problems with my ears in my life, if i get ill its usually on my chest.
However i should probably try to use it this winter.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2010, 09:58:18 am
I've always had problems with my ears, used to get loads of infections as a kid, and now got tinnitus from too many loud guns and nighclubs with crap sound systems.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 12, 2010, 10:20:02 am
You have mentioned odd shaped ears and guns in your last two posts.

I didnt realise you were a real Aberdeen local!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2010, 10:50:54 am
Not shitty little rifles and pistols.

GUNS

this was my toy for 18 months

http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/land/row/g6.htm (http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/land/row/g6.htm)

and occasionally this

http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/land/row/g5.htm (http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/land/row/g5.htm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 12, 2010, 01:11:24 pm
Ears?
Hate plugging, Just started to use white blue tac bungs, when its howling! other wise if its weak winds and not freezing, just not bothering...
However, loads of people down here have the surfers ear condition, Tinnitus and other effects of surfing for years without... and its really scary! Low frequency hearing loss seems common, so high frequency's become pain full.
The Ops not great news either...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 12, 2010, 02:16:56 pm
bringing this thread back to the board pr0n.  What do you think of this?


Rusty Piranha Quad 6'0" x 20" x 2 1/8" Surftech
(http://community.magicseaweed.com/download/file.php?id=3802)


for 200 i am tempted for a wider shortboard for the smaller clean days when my heavy pintail 18" quad might not be as effective as one of these.

Is it worth it?  I am thinking that i will get my moneys worth out of it eventually
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 12, 2010, 07:49:50 pm
Hood? I got hood....

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4652064369_f607f78acf.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/derbyshire_ben/4652064369/in/set-72157624041337311/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 12, 2010, 07:58:57 pm
What do you think of this?

 :-\

Surftech

 :thumbsdown:

Foam, glass and preferably handmade all the way for me Philo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 12, 2010, 11:27:24 pm
Yeah thats what i was thinking, looks somewhat flimsy doesnt it.  I like the shape and dimensions though.
After the current glass handmade beaut i have at the moment,  i want another and i think ill just wait and get one done properly. 
Going to order a fish from a shaper in scotland again.  Infact, ill go pick it up and just keep going to Aberdeen if its a good day Chris.   :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on November 14, 2010, 07:37:08 pm
the surftech finish is poo. Plasticy urgh.
Bamburgh was nice, i was dreadful. How have i lost a whole summer of fitness so fast?
I like b and w quads and that royal off of the other other channel.
That said, i only buy cheap boards off ebay.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 14, 2010, 07:50:50 pm
ill go pick it up and just keep going to Aberdeen if its a good day Chris.   :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:

Want to see what really shit waves are like? :) Give us a shout if you do.

In my experience surftec etc type light epoxy boards are a useful inclusion in a large quiver for dead still days and totally glassy conditions, but if there is any wind and associated chop they are not ideal. In other words most of the time up here. Stick to traditionally made boards.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 17, 2010, 11:55:23 pm
the sea was a whitewash of shit today, unsurfable.  Breaking about 1 mile out and the wind was disgusting, even the sheltered spots didnt appeal.  Tomorrow I hope im at work and off on friday so i can grace the bay alone!  :hug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 18, 2010, 11:57:47 am
Sneaky, sneaky round the corner this afternoon in this part of the world - big solid swell with offshore winds (?) somewhere..  ;)  Am on paternity to leave and have been given the afternoon off for good behaviour.. Love mid week sneakies...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 18, 2010, 12:51:00 pm
Wind has dropped here, given size of waves yesterday evening should be a window where widswell cleans up this afternoon. Keep that mobile close at hand Granticus!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 19, 2010, 10:49:30 am
Fully on down here! and I am on a boogie board with a go pro stuck to my head!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on November 19, 2010, 11:31:27 am
Fully on down here! and I am on a boogie board with a go pro stuck to my head!!!
on the downside i'm missing cornish perfection. 

on the plus side am enroute to the Peak for hopefully a week of cool crisp conditions (?!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 19, 2010, 01:31:22 pm
wind dropped here too chris, this morning got up for a dawnie, big swell with a rare wedge wave in amongst the shite whitewash rubbish.  Spent 2-3 hours and caught a few really steep angry waves that made that zipping noise when you go really quick down a face.  Got out after getting battered about abit, checked another spot in shelter to find perfect wedges curving around the pier wall unbroken beauties.  Fucking typical.  Got me motivated enough to get into a cold wet sandy wetsuit for another couple of hours.  Tomorrow is on the records to be special.  I wish we had the same colour waves as cornwall never mind the consistency of quality waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2010, 01:52:02 pm
Tomorrow is on the records to be escecially shit here. Onshore winds.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 19, 2010, 01:54:43 pm
road trip?  MSW don't think tomorrow will be any good here too, but all it takes is for it to be slightly calmer and it will be epic.  I hate the star system on MSW and the way it compiles "quality" waves.  did you get anything done today?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 19, 2010, 02:00:55 pm
I agree with SA Chris, tomorrow will be on record as being especially shite. Today was only slightly better, but still not worth getting wet for.
I think you better check your wind maps philo as if your on the east coast you are going to be disapointed tomorrow and for all of next week. Plenty of swell but the winds are about as wrong as they could get.

You posted before i did so i will add. The winds do look light in the morning so you may get a wave, however they are straight out of the east. It maybe surfable but special it will not.
I am a bit picky with what i surf in mind but i wont be setting my alarm.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on November 19, 2010, 02:09:59 pm
Fully on down here! and I am on a boogie board with a go pro stuck to my head!!!

lets have that footage please !!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 19, 2010, 02:18:24 pm
aye indeed, today was only decent because there was little to no wind at all.  I think ill be doing dawn again tomorrow in a sheltered spot.  Again pretty shit with alot of instant close outs expected but sometimes i like getting wet and surfing the shittest of the shit.  I must admit I am pretty naive with my expectations and will be happy with anything.  Im so bored right now and might go to the climb newc comp tonight.  Shit when there is no waves, or disgusting swells.  Think its time I learnt how to read the charts properly to predict when its actually worth surfing
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 19, 2010, 02:33:32 pm
Philo

MSW gives you a good indication of the swell thats coming, and its resonably acurate from around 48 hours in. Its star system is a load of bollocks however. I think it really spoils there website as even though i know a little about surf forecasting from years of experiance i still get guided by there fucking stars, which are pretty much always wrong.
Also the wind on there site is quite often out, use the bbc, windguru or XC weather.
An onshore wind like tomorrow would not be tht bad on a good long period swell but will be shite on the wind chop we have at the minute.
I am going to the climb newcastle comp tonight so might see you there. i am old but not old enough to be in the vets yet (bastards) and will be mostly failing on things.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2010, 02:57:52 pm
What gme said. I pay no heed to their stars, but strong onshore wind = shit surf in anyones book. We have no spots locally sheltered from Easterlies, the coastline here just isn't convoluted enough and this windswell is unlikely to wrap around enough and get to anywhere on the Moray coast, which will have cross shore winds to deal with.

If I had the time and energy I might wander up and down the coast a bit on the offchance that there may be a surfable wave, but truth is I'm lazy old and jaded and I'm probably better off banking the pass for a day when conditions are more worthwhile. SO DIY it is then :(.

However, will keep an eye on the flying fish in the back garden in case the wind does turn at all!

xcweather.co.uk is a lot more accurate for wind than MSW. And if you want to learn more about forecasting Surf Science by Tony Butt is a worth addition to your Amazon Xmas list.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 23, 2010, 07:12:36 pm
decided to give it another go today, got in and had some really good waves.  still choppy and not as clean as id like but i still had a good few hours.  Managed to get heavy rain, sleet and hailstoned to death with the sky so black.  The next few days/weekend look interesting.  Think ill be out with my camera friday onwards to get pictures of the swell.  Winter is Defo here!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 25, 2010, 12:19:59 am
I agree with SA Chris, tomorrow will be on record as being especially shite. Today was only slightly better, but still not worth getting wet for.
I think you better check your wind maps philo as if your on the east coast you are going to be disapointed tomorrow and for all of next week. Plenty of swell but the winds are about as wrong as they could get.

You posted before i did so i will add. The winds do look light in the morning so you may get a wave, however they are straight out of the east. It maybe surfable but special it will not.
I am a bit picky with what i surf in mind but i wont be setting my alarm.
Got some really good Go Kart footage with one of these!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 25, 2010, 09:43:14 am
One of what? What are you wibbling about?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 25, 2010, 01:29:22 pm
GO PRO!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 25, 2010, 08:13:20 pm
Ah OK. Lets see it then.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 26, 2010, 01:00:42 pm
Go Karting Footage...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on November 26, 2010, 01:35:43 pm
So far this page of the thread isn't going too well is it?  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on November 26, 2010, 02:52:19 pm
i dont see the go pro footage... or have I missed the point?
 ???
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2010, 03:12:57 pm
Remember who you are dealing with.....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on November 26, 2010, 03:53:06 pm
Remember who you are dealing with.....


 :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on November 26, 2010, 04:28:54 pm
Dunno how to do it?
Hang five...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on November 28, 2010, 10:50:30 pm
Anyone brave the east coast today?

Bottled it really; although having a cold, sub-zero temps and a 2hr drive each way with the added fun of getting stuck in snow/traffic are pretty good reasons for a massive shoulder drop
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 29, 2010, 09:47:12 am
You didnt miss anything. I can walk to the surf and quite enjoy the madness of plogging through snow to go for a surf but the waves were poor and not worth it.

Bucket fulls of snow here, pobably 18 inches on the top of the beach, have been pretty much snowed in since fri unless you have 4wd. Bunch of snowboarders on the hill next to my house having a great time, i was going to get one last winter due to the amount of snow we had and now wish i had.
Must get on ebay.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 29, 2010, 10:13:43 am
Was down stonehaven on Saturday - not worth getting in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 29, 2010, 10:58:32 am
Interesting article on the death (and life) of Andy Irons.
http://outsideonline.com/adventure/travel-ta-andy-irons-surfing-athletes-sidwcmdev_152739.html (http://outsideonline.com/adventure/travel-ta-andy-irons-surfing-athletes-sidwcmdev_152739.html)
 
These rumours have been doing the rounds for years but i guess the "what goes on tour stays on tour" attitude has prevaled. It would appear though that people are now speaking out.

I guess the truth may come out once the toxicology reports are released.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 29, 2010, 01:05:34 pm
if the toxicology reports are released.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on November 29, 2010, 01:59:16 pm
Somewhere further south was on yesterday. Bbbbrrrrrrrrr...

(http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=196087)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 29, 2010, 02:08:56 pm
Somewhere further south was on yesterday. Bbbbrrrrrrrrr...

(http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=196087)

You mean
(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/196087.jpg)

 ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 29, 2010, 04:26:31 pm
Only time it ever works in my experience is in a blizzard, at least the battle of the Somme reenactment on the walk in would have been frozen.

Didn't think it would work yesterday though.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 01, 2010, 10:49:16 am
Paddle-in Big Wave comp from Oregon...

Nelscott Reef Big Wave Classic 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsd6MawdPSg#)

Some more info on MSW here (http://magicseaweed.com/Kohl-Head-Wins-Out--Content/2939/1/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 01, 2010, 04:49:30 pm
One for the goofers, love anything this style of surfing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SWfTG0HdbOk# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SWfTG0HdbOk#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 01, 2010, 06:06:59 pm
Reubyn is, i think, the Uks best surfer. He is the only one who is anywhere near what is coming out of Aus/USA/SA.
But he is still well behind the top boys.

I too love this style of surfing, even though i will never be able to do any of the shit they do i love it. Its the same with climbing, i want to hear about and watch cutting edge not bumbling.

Philo, have you seen BS or Modern Collective. The stuff the Dane Reynolds, Jordy smith, Dusty Payne, Mitch Coleburn, Dion Aigus and Yadin Nicholl do defies physics. Modern Collective is watched every time i am missing the water.

I also think the Julian Wilson dvd will be well worth getting

I couldnt get any clips to link to but found one off BS, the airs they pull towards the end make reubyns look like chop hops.

Dusty Payne And Mitch Coleborn's Sections From Volcom's New (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYZ5h2m9YtY#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 01, 2010, 07:13:03 pm
yeah ive seen alot from the wave comps, not the dvds tho - reminds me i need to purchase some.  The reason I like the clip so much is because it is in English shitty chop water rather than a pipeline quiet day. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 02, 2010, 10:05:33 am
That the same reason i like modern collective so much, most of the time they are surfing in shit quality waves that look no different to your average day on the east coast, either small and clean or big and wild. It gets you motivated to try to do one single move on a shitty close out when perhaps you might not have bothered getting in.

If you just watch DVDs of perfect 400m long pointbreaks or indo reef perfection you will end up being a bit disappointed every time you goto the beach.

I have loads of DVDs i should have a clear out, i will try to post a list on here free to good homes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2010, 10:09:53 am
Exchange programme?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on December 02, 2010, 10:25:11 am
Rad Rodents  :P
The World's First Surfing Mice - The Radical Rodents (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdbxLk8_C8c#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 03, 2010, 06:32:58 pm
got in today for roughly an hour, clean 4 ft waves.  water temp 8, air temp -4.  My face nearly dropped off, I never usually have issues with the cold but today my hands were super numb aswell.  Anyone have any plans for the weekend? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 04, 2010, 12:13:04 pm
SSS = Sick South Swell coming through Sunday/ Monday, combined with perfect swell direction and winds for South Facing coasts...  South Coast England, Lleyn and Pembrokeshire should all be going off.. 
Stuck in North Devon with the new babbit so will have to wait on for something more westerly..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 05, 2010, 03:50:52 pm
South Coast overhead and super clean, Obvious reef choices are all on... Building tomorrow! Temps are bearable too!
Had Wrestles near perfect...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 05, 2010, 08:07:48 pm
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs413.snc4/47657_1492078554054_1596721730_31159372_6635504_n.jpg?download (http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs413.snc4/47657_1492078554054_1596721730_31159372_6635504_n.jpg?download)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 05, 2010, 08:20:03 pm
Wrestles?
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1226.snc4/155842_1492071273872_1596721730_31159356_5281202_s.jpg (http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1226.snc4/155842_1492071273872_1596721730_31159356_5281202_s.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on December 05, 2010, 08:21:46 pm
so good he posted it twice..  looks fantastic. If I wasn't in bed sick as a dog I'd have been out there today  :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 05, 2010, 08:28:20 pm
Doh!
Bear with me...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 05, 2010, 08:37:30 pm
Looks nice. Must be a different world down there as it looks like your hoodless.
Similar on east coast on fri. Nice little barrelling lefts on a sandbar nine out of ten were closeouts though.

We would call that about one to two foot though. South coast must be full of midgets if that's overhead.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 05, 2010, 08:56:58 pm
was out today in some 1-2 foot (like that picture) The colour of the water down south is so beautiful in comparison to our chocolate waves. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 05, 2010, 09:00:12 pm
Dying swell... 6.5 tomorrow, building... It was only a foot or so with the occasiaonal overhead sets.
Going to some weird double cove set up... been skunked twice before here, but reckon tomorrow is on!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 06, 2010, 09:49:32 pm
Surfed wrestles again today... absolutely fired at five to six feet! Fiercely dominated by competitive crowd. Had to gain trust with the longboard... had some great little barrels and avoided the sets, sat out on the shoulder and took the wider sets early! really like the reef set up here. Surfed Perranunthoe?, The Cove tomorrow? think it was too big today, the indicator rock was visible an shrouded in mist!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 07, 2010, 12:16:32 am
Looks nice. Must be a different world down there as it looks like your hoodless.
Similar on east coast on fri. Nice little barrelling lefts on a sandbar nine out of ten were closeouts though.

We would call that about one to two foot though. South coast must be full of midgets if that's overhead.

Current (no pun intended) water temperature in North Devon around about 12C compared to 8C up your way...  Which is about the minimum temp we'll get to by late Jan/ Feb.  At this time of year it can feel really nice to get out of the cold air temps into the relatively warm ocean. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 08, 2010, 12:25:17 pm
Last two days have given us a good bit of surf with more to follow, shame i am going to miss it as away with work.
Had my favorite slab with 3 mates yesterday which was far from classic but still really good fun. Just over head and nice and hollow.
Then had her again today on my lonesome, bit wierd and shifty but still 3 ft and throwing a few nice pits, none of which i managed to exit ( still to master the coming out bit, only manage about 1 in 20 but the pleasure of being in there is worth the wupping).
 Its a mad place to be on your own so only ended up in for an hour at the most. Its shallow, heavy and quite intimidating and when i say on your own i mean on your own. no surfers, no walkers, no babes in bikinis, just a few sheep and the odd seal.
Two great days apart from the cold, it was bad yesterday but about as cold as i have ever felt today. Car said -3 and with a NW wind blowing straight accross our frozen land it cut to a quick. Its a good 10 mins walk through shin deep snow to get there so feet are pretty cold before you start. On my way back to the van my face felt like it was being grit blasted.

You southerners have it lucky in some ways.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2010, 12:38:17 pm
Thought it might be good down your way. Some nice longish period groundswell was showing in Aberdeen. And I had to work :(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on December 08, 2010, 01:46:36 pm
Its a good 10 mins walk through shin deep snow to get there so feet are pretty cold before you start.
strewth you northerners are hard. Just about to get into the winter suit down here
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 08, 2010, 02:03:23 pm
that was brilliantly put there gme, 9/10 times I surf alone, partly to the fact I hardly know anyone and don't really bother with people. sometimes I feel like I'm being watched when i surf some of the more sheltered spots down here, the ones off the beaten track and some what shady areas.  Got in today for a surprisingly clean session.  The wind made it a bit choppy later so I got out.  The spot I was at today is an old mining slag waste bit so is basically a horseshoe into a beach of 10 metres overlooked by 50ft cliffs.  The steep hill to get in and out was fun on the way in but not so much when your fucking freezing on the walk back to the car.  I've always surfed this spot alone and when it gets dark there I never feel comfortable.    Re getting pitted, I find it hard deciding whether its going to close out on me and have often enjoyed a lip to the face through it. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 08, 2010, 02:26:43 pm
Barrel riding is a dark art i believe. I have had more tips about it than anything else, the best ones are pull into everything, dont close your eyes (easier said than done at first), hold on and look at the exit (this is usually the bit dissapearing off into the distance and getting smaller).
 I believe its all about board position and not much else.
As with everthing involving surfing the thing that makes it hard is the fact that you cant break it down into bits. How much longer would it take to do a boulder problem or route if you had to start at the bottom every time and the holds had changed slightly on every go.

The favorite bit of bassalt i keep going on about on here now features on a reasent video (and most of the recent UK mags) from the big swell we had in Oct. And in the inerest of my trying to be more Johnny Brown like and share my waves, coffee, house bed and wife with all others here is a link.

http://video.mpora.com/watch/jjD4DtXeI/ (http://video.mpora.com/watch/jjD4DtXeI/)

My love features at 0-50 secs, 124-138 secs and 243 to end.

Enjoy

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 08, 2010, 08:20:24 pm
aye ive heard danny bang on about this on the other channel and ive heard others mention it.  Looks sweet for a goofer and next big swell I will pop through for a session if you like? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on December 08, 2010, 11:11:38 pm
Its a good 10 mins walk through shin deep snow to get there so feet are pretty cold before you start.
strewth you northerners are hard. Just about to get into the winter suit down here

Hardcore, you know the score...

Respect
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 11, 2010, 03:50:44 pm
file:///C:/Users/nadia/Desktop/pats%20pics/Porthleven%20214%20-%20Copy.JPG
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 11, 2010, 04:13:20 pm
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179018180&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179018180&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179098182&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179098182&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179138183&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179138183&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179178184&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179178184&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179218185&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783179218185&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783182018255&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783182018255&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783182098257&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783182098257&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783182138258&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1783182138258&set=a.1783175258086.103104.1200606353)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 11, 2010, 04:17:17 pm
Had to Facebook these, sorry!
Got loads of pro shot pictures from the same day....
Sick session!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 11, 2010, 05:09:11 pm
Was this the 2-3 ft day after the 5-6ft one  :-\  :P

Nice pics anyway, looks a lovely wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on December 11, 2010, 06:53:48 pm
In at Saltburn today. Messy. Cold!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 11, 2010, 06:59:36 pm
aye, tomorrow is the one barron.  get in early and should see decent waves. 
Had a brilliant session on Friday, pretty small waves (about 4ft) but big sets came in.  Problem with my beach break is the constancy of position of the waves breaking.  The variation of waves breaking on your face to paddling from the deep to catch them always keeps you awake. 

I think tomorrow is set to be a decent swell.  Hopefully the wind wont ruin it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on December 11, 2010, 07:18:46 pm
Less wind and cleaner around high? Tempted.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 11, 2010, 08:44:44 pm
gme and chris are the north sea gurus but im going to chance it.  Been a decent run of waves this week and the northern swell works on my break really well.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 12, 2010, 02:32:25 am
There was not much difference in swell height, but an increase in period (8-13/14 sec's), so loads more volume producing better barrels, Low tide was draining the reef and fully throwing full chandeliers, really good shape due to the swell direction...
Really wanted the bigger sets, could have so easily trimmed early and made it, but would have had to clear the full line up consisting of the elite crew...
Porthleven was nowhere near as clean as Wrestles... but had a less sucky wall section, the boys were all on this wave though, and I was great to witness the fitness... Its another world!
 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 12, 2010, 02:34:46 pm
Some crackers on =http://magicseaweed.com/Billabong-Mid-Year-XXL-Content/2986/here (http://=http://magicseaweed.com/Billabong-Mid-Year-XXL-Content/2986/here).  Mid year round up of the XXL... Shipsterns has to be the scariest maddest thing. How people can jump off that ledge which is bigger than most of the bigger waves we surf I'l never know.  Laurie Towner' ballsy paddle in at Cloudbreak is also  :bow:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 12, 2010, 03:13:55 pm
Some crackers on =http://magicseaweed.com/Billabong-Mid-Year-XXL-Content/2986/here (http://=http://magicseaweed.com/Billabong-Mid-Year-XXL-Content/2986/here).  Mid year round up of the XXL... Shipsterns has to be the scariest maddest thing. How people can jump off that ledge which is bigger than most of the bigger waves we surf I'l never know.  Laurie Towner' ballsy paddle in at Cloudbreak is also  :bow:

Good vid. Though the link didn't work.
Try this one http://magicseaweed.com/Billabong-Mid-Year-XXL-Content/2986/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Billabong-Mid-Year-XXL-Content/2986/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 17, 2010, 05:28:10 pm
Why is the north east not like this?

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/198776.jpg)


Had a fun thursday with some huge wedges.  tomorrow dawnie anyone?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 17, 2010, 05:45:47 pm
Burliegh Heads?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 17, 2010, 05:47:15 pm
Burliegh Heads?

Snapper Rocks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 17, 2010, 08:44:14 pm
Oh!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on December 18, 2010, 08:06:10 pm
Thoughts on north devon monday/tuesday?

Good period/ok winds, small swell though
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 18, 2010, 08:42:37 pm
Quote
Thoughts on north devon monday/tuesday?

Good period/ok winds, small swell though
:-\  Been watching the forecast carefully.  Might be OK.. The small swell might get blown out by the easterlies.  It's really touch and go at the moment, things'll be more certain by Sunday evening. 
One thing is certain...  it is baltic out of the water, had a lot of snow here last night and forecast for more Sunday night. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on December 18, 2010, 09:14:08 pm
Thanks man
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 19, 2010, 08:57:35 am
Sunday morning update for ND.. Barely a foot and clean today.
Looks like some swell could push through tommorow but it's main component is 7secs which means it won't be packing too much punch, still given the size could produce something in the knee to waist high range.

Tuesday has better swell period but smaller swell size, it could be OK but the further SW you head the bigger it'll be.. 

I am hoping the predicted swell for Christmas Day holds out, love Christmas Day surfs :great:

It's been quite some time since we've had decent surf, so I may be tempted to get in if it manages to squeeze a 2ft or more out. 

Could be another pulse of snow tommorow...

I'm off down to Northcott to try Red Quinnie again, so close last week...

You Still Keen Baron?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 19, 2010, 02:01:28 pm
Christmas looking good!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on December 19, 2010, 02:18:24 pm
Could be. Will make a decision tonight. Cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 19, 2010, 03:40:37 pm
north east big swells today only spoilt by the onshore wind really.  Went out this morning and it was overhead and slightly choppy, some decent waves but horrible thick lipped close outs as per at Sunderland.  Had a lush 2 wave hold down after a huge section out.  Still a fun day tho, hard work paddling today. 

Tomorrow looks to be clean and small but with onshore winds still.  At the moment I think I prefer the super clean sub overhead slabs that we get here rather than the 15 minute paddle out massive overhead waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 20, 2010, 10:46:01 am
More Snow and it's FLAT, the easterly is blocking the swell. :thumbsdown:

 :off:  Dropped the last hard move on Red Quinnie about 20 times yesterday and then 'je me suis fait une steak'. :wall: 

Was hoping for a consolation surf today..  Looks like it'll have to be  :beer1: instead.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 20, 2010, 01:23:49 pm
well your loss down there is the north east gain.  Today has been the best, cleanest day in seaburn i've had this year.  perfect 5ft with offshore wind, beautiful long rides. 
Got in at 9, got out at 1.  Off topic but do seals bite?  Two seals were right next to me and my mate for about an hour this morning, just chilling a couple of metres away.  Should I be more worried about them trying to elope with me or do they enjoy using their big teeth?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 20, 2010, 02:06:46 pm
well your loss down there is the north east gain.  Today has been the best, cleanest day in seaburn i've had this year.  perfect 5ft with offshore wind, beautiful long rides. 
Got in at 9, got out at 1.  Off topic but do seals bite?  Two seals were right next to me and my mate for about an hour this morning, just chilling a couple of metres away.  Should I be more worried about them trying to elope with me or do they enjoy using their big teeth?


Jealous? Just a bit......  as Idol says Christmas Day is looking strong though..

Never heard of a surfer being nibbled by a seal, we get a lot of big greys at certain spots down here and they tend to keep their distance.  If you paddle towards them they'll bugger off.  Mind you the size of their jaws and teeth is disconcerting, could probably bite off your arm. :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 21, 2010, 12:02:33 pm
Like a big wet Rottweiler with no legs...
Leopard seals a classed as man eaters!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2010, 01:32:59 pm
No leopard seals within a thousand miles of UK though. Greys are generally pretty timid unless you go near young.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 22, 2010, 12:54:30 am
this is from the day we had the steamy water and the seal at the very back of the picture, can you see it?

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/199383.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 27, 2010, 10:43:32 am
Is Performing Monkeys DVD any good?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 27, 2010, 10:23:45 pm
Smoking surf down here!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 28, 2010, 12:23:06 pm
Britain keeps producing.

Carve Magazine issue 121 - Chronicles of the Dawn Treaders (http://vimeo.com/17966363)

Does not take much to work out where in these lands this is but harder to find exact locations. I think there are so many new waves to be found here and a bit of effort produces gold. I have surfed three new spots this year (maybe not the first but i guess amongst a very small number).

The whole article in carve made me long for the years before work and family when i could have gone on the search for months on end as these boys do. Surfings a bit to much like a mcdonalds drive through for me now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 28, 2010, 07:17:41 pm
Nice. gme, did you see my q abouve about performing monkeys?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 29, 2010, 12:51:30 am
I have not seen it. I Like watching uk films but I guess this is old now so will look dated. Just got Julian wilsons flick for crimbo and due to the inclusion of very expensive slo mo cameras, the worlds best surfers and helicopters it makes your average mr b uk production seem pretty tame.
 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 29, 2010, 04:06:59 pm
any of you lot manage to play out today?  Sunderland outside of the pier was firing this morning, clean long barrels overhead.  Unexpected ray of sunshine in what looked to be a gloomy piece of shit of a day.  Only 4 people in and set after set of clean waves.  Im still shakey when pitted as the super steep walls make my board rock and it kicks sideways alot.  Think i need some new fins, any suggestions for a 6'3 quad setup?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 30, 2010, 12:11:47 am
Egor is the funniest person I have ever met, was locked into a room for three days playing the most insane drinking game ever... "The Goblet", forfeited by "A Spankoff". will pull the footage out sometime and post it!
Been smoking down here, really clean swell, slightly flawed by crappy banks at Fistral, should keep going for the next few days...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 30, 2010, 10:01:14 am
any of you lot manage to play out today?  Sunderland outside of the pier was firing this morning, clean long barrels overhead.  Unexpected ray of sunshine in what looked to be a gloomy piece of shit of a day.  Only 4 people in and set after set of clean waves.  Im still shakey when pitted as the super steep walls make my board rock and it kicks sideways alot.  Think i need some new fins, any suggestions for a 6'3 quad setup?

Sounds great Philo. To answer your question, it's more likely to be your board's rail and tail shape as much as the fins. Your riding a wide quad template right? Like mine it's just not going to hold a steep line as well as a drawn out pin or tight squash.  Are your fins LokBox? If so, you could set the front and back fins on each side wider apart which wil make the tail less loose.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 30, 2010, 11:32:47 am
Monday is looking tasty for the E. Coast although the tides are a little high.  I might be tempted to pull on my wetsuit  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 30, 2010, 12:58:39 pm
Noticed that too. midday tide is as bad as can be here, dawnie at this time of year is brutal, and will be getting dark by the time it drops.
Or hope it's big enough to get into Stonehaven and have a mellow longboard session there at midday with hot chocolate and chips waiting 5 mins from beach.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 30, 2010, 05:13:59 pm
Pretty average beach session up here yesterday. Nothing special but waves for once.
Don't mention the weekend or it will disappear.
FD. Will call you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on December 31, 2010, 11:24:00 am
Both coasts fireing for three days over the New Year period...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 31, 2010, 09:00:54 pm
Sounds great Philo. To answer your question, it's more likely to be your board's rail and tail shape as much as the fins. Your riding a wide quad template right? Like mine it's just not going to hold a steep line as well as a drawn out pin or tight squash.  Are your fins LokBox? If so, you could set the front and back fins on each side wider apart which wil make the tail less loose.

Actually im on a 6'3 pintail, x18 wide.  Heres a pic - shows my fin set up.
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/55012374@N04/5100117117/)  Check out the modern art in the background aswell. 

goes like a rocket but slides around when barrelled and super steep wedges, you know when you drop and slam the breaks to get pitted then it jacks up and I seem to slide (as if i have no fins).  Mind you, its brilliant when it works and you come powersliding out of a barrel but other times when you face plant the wave you feel more like a complete tit.   This could all be down to shit stance when barrelled/not getting my weight position sorted
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 03, 2011, 12:43:35 pm
great weekend here, some beautiful waves and even better, just managed to get hold of a brand new xcel infiniti 5/4/3 for 200 in winter.  cant believe it. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2011, 01:03:23 pm
Nice. The X Zip or the O Zip? I got my O Zip for 140 on sale, but that was spring.

Had a poor session yesterday, got in at the wrong place caught two waves before waves started bouncing off seawall, so had to move and because of swell direction spent most of session avoiding groynes.

Today was infinitely better, had a great morning on longboard, including some great lefts, which I normally studiously avoid on the log. Plus rain is more pleasant to surf in than yesterday's snow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 03, 2011, 01:12:30 pm
X zip, yesterday clean overhead wedge waves later on, bit messy but barrelling clean 5ft - the whole of the north-east was in on seaburns action, i counted 23 when i got out - for our beach break its too many.
Still managed to bag some long riding lefts on my short board.   
Got in again at dawn this morning, 5 people in for some really clean sets.  I managed to drop in on my mate and wipe him out as i tried to pull out, we laughed about it though.  I also managed to fall from a high lip drop in, front foot slipped, and rode the wave all the way to shore entirely backwards.  Its one of them moments where you shout DID ANYONE SEE THAT?  Luckily some bloke did to confirm how weird it was. 
Wetsuit comes tomorrow, the one I use now, flushes the water in my arms and where i duck dive, in the neck a little.  Hopefully with the flushy arms sorted, my hands wont be constantly flooded with cold water - might as well not use gloves (though the xcel straps - the velcro things dont seem to stop it either)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 03, 2011, 02:31:24 pm
Skunked on the south coast... FLAT!
Really poor banks and doubled swell on the north coast... not ideal, but still well surfable!
Freeezin too, Got loads of Rhino extremeties... fully rubbered up now!
Good New Year to all!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 03, 2011, 02:52:31 pm
man i wish i could be making the statement that im only just full rubbered up.  Best feeling is when you find a spot going off when the reports/ others look flat as fook
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 11, 2011, 08:39:03 pm
Ouch. Six wave hold down.
Ken Bradshaw's big wave hold down - Human Planet: Oceans, preview - BBC One (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zKSHftGIX4#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on January 12, 2011, 09:00:25 am
Dont get me wrong I wouldn't want to be there but dont think that counts as a six wave hold down, as I understand it you have to actually be held down?  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 12, 2011, 10:14:09 pm
Dont get me wrong I wouldn't want to be there but dont think that counts as a six wave hold down, as I understand it you have to actually be held down?  ;)
Indeed he's managing to get a lung full of air in between  :spank:  So technically not a six wave hold down just taking six on the head looks like a walk in the park :o

Day off Friday and allowed out to play - 9ft at 15seconds down here :great:  Strong SWerlies and neap tides :thumbsdown:

Hmmmm...  There is this place, well off the beaten track, not in any guidebooks, not even a 'known' spot, that we've searched out (me and one other) by looking at maps, trekking, checking and missing good sessions elsewhere but it needs a thumping swell and a neap tide to come alive.  The time has finally arrived when conditions have come together and we make the hike again.  Lets hope we don't get skunked as it has potential for a dream session.  I'll take some piccies if it's working.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on January 12, 2011, 10:50:11 pm
get in....

lets see the piccies...

no compunction on the venue

unless its a wkd beach break good for spongers  ;)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 13, 2011, 01:14:01 pm
got a text from my mate at 8 saying the usual spot was going off.  Waited till 9 for work not to call me in, had 3 hours of perfect lefts and shallow barrels.  felt tropical too with air temps in double figures, getting changed was luxury.  Only me and my mate out all morning - tomorrows going to be gash up here so im off to check a new spot, dodgy area tho but potential to be a new perfect sheltered spot. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on January 13, 2011, 01:49:35 pm
Hmmmm...  There is this place, well off the beaten track, not in any guidebooks,
is this a devonshire venue?   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 13, 2011, 03:45:30 pm
Philo

How big was it down there, it was small up here, so small in fact that i didnt even get in. There were a couple in on the main beach but it was only waist high maybe chest at best and they were not catching many waves. There was a nice clean swell but to small and too much water on the reefs due to the neap tides.

Mates in tynemouth said the same there. and it looks small on the cam.

You seem to have found a little swell magnet i must come down and check it out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 13, 2011, 06:00:34 pm
just under head high and clean, steep wedges that barrel on low tide.  there are a few spots near me that work.  This was the pick today, works on small north swells, well worth checking out.
Here is a picture of the area, the wave usually breaks going left from the photo.  (this area doesnt like crowds)

(http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=16231)

got a few more spots that work for southern swells and now hopefully a spot that will work with high wind and shite blown out swells. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 13, 2011, 07:48:26 pm
x marks the spot

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/16231.jpg)

hopefully better. looks sweet
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 13, 2011, 11:26:10 pm
Hmmmm...  There is this place, well off the beaten track, not in any guidebooks,
is this a devonshire venue?
Nope.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 15, 2011, 09:00:40 pm
as sad as it is, a surf shop shutting down south, means a bit of a sale.

http://loose-fit.co.uk (http://loose-fit.co.uk) 


not sure what the craic would be with returns..

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 15, 2011, 10:12:37 pm
Well the swell wasn't quite what it was cracked upto be and nowhere near big enough for the spot to work.  Ended up surfing a windy but do-able and suprisingly not too busy point break that everyone including every beginner this side of the M4 seems to know about. 

as sad as it is, a surf shop shutting down south, means a bit of a sale.
http://loose-fit.co.uk (http://loose-fit.co.uk) 
not sure what the craic would be with returns..

Always felt like it was a bit too 'upmarket' and pricey with it to stand a chance of surviving in a little ole surf town (village!) like Braunton.  Apparently still gonna be an online loose-fit so returns shouldn't be a problem.  Would love to have a Choad as I have heard lots of good things from a friend who has Cotty's old one but gonna have to do better than 415 at a closing down sale to pursuade me to purchase one.  Might pop in and see what's left on the shelves tommorow...

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 16, 2011, 12:00:29 am
yeah indeed i thought the same, though some gifts and dvd's might be worth getting on the "cheap".  wouldn't mind a cheap set of glass quad fins.  Talking of new boards, thinking about getting a retro fish for the 3-4ft days when its wedge heaven so that I don't have to pump my regular ride to get speed, any other suggestions? a nice wide nose 6ft shortboard is my next purchase I think.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 16, 2011, 07:18:37 pm
So this is what I was looking at for just such days..  The are nice and wide, easy to paddle, super fast but still have that shortboard feel..  Your supposed to ride them shorter than your regular board.  They are being rated for typical uk surf as opposed to those special days when things really come together..

5′ 10″ Diplock Choad
This is the teams go to board for under shoulder high surf.  Super relaxed entry rocker and a wide planshape allowing ease of paddling and early wave entry,  coupled with a deep concave in back half this board generates immense speed in small waves.

Ride 4 6 inches shorter than normal shortboard

model: Choad
length: 5' 10"
width: 193/8"
thickness: 23/8"
tail: Squash Tail
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 18, 2011, 12:40:26 am
This morning the swell was still here, the wind had gone and so had all the 'weekend warriors'.  Surfed the cobblestone point that every bugger knows about, is in all the guide books, attracts every sod who can stand on a board, that peels to the left but might have some rights, where there always seems to be a lot of folk sitting  there making up the numbers/getting in the way and has some good bouldering in the vicinity but I'm refusing to name..  Peeling perfectingly this morning, looooooooooooooooooooooooooong lefts, received some excellent 2nd hand advice on forehand snaps (which I'm shit at - backhand's a different story but this is a left and I be goofy) and had really good session chucking everything into turns the advice works so I will share... For forehand snaps, generate speed, bottom turn, head up to the lip, compress into the snap (bend your legs), straighten out of it, the important bit though is when you rotate, lead with your back arm and bring it across infront of your face pointing your hand to where you wish to go, everything just follows, thwack!  Good times.  8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Plattsy on January 18, 2011, 02:59:07 am
Myself and my better half took our first lesson at Manly Beach on Sunday. On the phone call to book the guy said there was a big swell due and it would be awesome. We were a little bit worried about the big swell. We got suited up and paired with our boards. I got a mammoth board and my girlfriend a tiny little thing. I was expecting to spend a lot of time on the beach practicing various bits of technique but was happily surprised that after three practices of catching a wave we were sent into the water.
Don't think I've felt waves like them and the pull and push of waves coming in sideways and off the beach made the hardest part just getting out still with your board. We were only catching white water waves obviously but really enjoyed it and was stood up after 2 or 3 attempts. Not sure I have time or the money for another hobby but I reckon I'll be having another go pretty soon.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 18, 2011, 08:24:27 am
I had the same good advice off someone this year, was doing my front side top turns (couldn't really call them snaps at the time) using my leading arm. Once i changed to focusing on really bringing the trailing arm around my body it generates a far greater force in your turn.

This works the otherway round when on your bottom turn (frontside) and your top turn (backside) where you want to use your leading arm to control the turn. Backside snaps always seem better as they are controlled by your lead arm and feel natural, also why backside cutbacks are much easier than frontside.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 18, 2011, 08:39:17 am
Nice one Plattsy. Surfing's the source etc
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on January 18, 2011, 09:23:11 am
For forehand snaps, generate speed, bottom turn, head up to the lip, compress into the snap (bend your legs), straighten out of it, the important bit though is when you rotate, lead with your back arm and bring it across infront of your face pointing your hand to where you wish to go, everything just follows, thwack!  Good times.  8)
Further west was also nice yesterday lunchtime :-)
Have been trying to understand yours/gme's advice here. Can I have a description for a natural footer involved right/left arm descriptions?  :-[  so if I'm on a right and snapping off the top (ie facing out to sea for the top turn) then my right arm should swing right across my face to lead back the wave, right?!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 18, 2011, 09:35:16 am
Yes.  The key thing is that it's actually the shoulder position that's driving the body position so the arm is really just an indicator that the shoulder and upperbody is twisted.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 18, 2011, 11:49:11 am
..................................So you kinda end up with your trailing arm, (the one at the back) if you are a smegular foot that'd be your right arm, in front of your face, the inside of your elbow joint by your nose.  Start the rotation with your trail arm, your head, your shoulders and your feet will follow on.  Using your trail arm in this way seems to increase the energy going through your back foot as your do your turn and thus ..... THWACK! 

Particularly the earlier turns in this tutorial... 

SurflineTV TRICK TIPS: CARVE TO SNAP (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZqUTSrVELs#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 18, 2011, 02:39:04 pm
My Ex Baird broke her neck on a forehand smash... pure power!!! Longboarding this manoeuvre requires a slight variation on this, have been practising this and can perform it better when surfing switch (goofy),.
It has been really good down here, and have started to nail loads of manoeuvres on demand... cross stepped a fin first 180 for the first time yesterday!!! BOOM! fugging well stoked!
 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 18, 2011, 05:30:56 pm
this is my source of weakness now, outrunning the wave and cutting back up the top of the wave.  To me i think the key is the slight crouch out of the end to get the power back down the wave - many times my arm flailing and pointing back down the wave leaves me over the top of it when I don't get the power back with a good lean on the forward knee.  (i cant fully snap but its more of a pivot)

Im also focusing on going over the top of sectioned out waves rather than going around them - smashing the lip of the wave/broken white water to go over it as my local beach break seems to section quite often. 

On a bit of a NNFN i was so blind on a rocky hidden pocket spot the other day I managed to mangle the nose of my mal that I rarely surf.  Its pretty much a 7'2 log and fun to play around with on 3ft waves etc.  Hit a rock and went head over heels.  GME et al, what do you surf in the sub 5ft (If you go out at all)  as mentioned before I still want a old fish
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 18, 2011, 07:44:05 pm
5ft swell or 5ft 'faces'?? A 5ft swell is quite big.... overhead 8-15 ft faces in my experience.

5ft faces (1-2ft swell?) - It depends. If it's long period and lined up nicely then I'll ride my fishy quad, I also have a massive trad 9ft6" noserider longboard (bought from LooseFit funnily enough) that I ride when its small and clean.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 18, 2011, 07:47:12 pm
Let me qualify my last post with the fact that I've only been in the water once or twice since May 2010.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 18, 2011, 09:41:11 pm
aye i meant face, 5 ft wedges we get up here messy beach breaks usually
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2011, 09:40:37 am
It's the hundred year storm. I knew you wouldn't miss the hundred year storm.

http://uk.news.yahoo.com/38/20110118/tsc-scientists-warn-of-superstorm-headin-98fda55.html (http://uk.news.yahoo.com/38/20110118/tsc-scientists-warn-of-superstorm-headin-98fda55.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 19, 2011, 09:41:31 am
I am a standard thruster rider. Have loads of boards ( eight at the minute) but they are all slight variations on a theme.

The east coast gets some of the best waves in the country when it works, usually 20 times a year or so, and when its like that you get good oerhead waves (3foot+) on the reefs. For these waves i ride rounded pins of various lengths from 6` 3" to 7` 4" although i haven't ridden the big one yet it was bought for thurso but is yet to be used in anger. All of these are around 18 3/4" x 2 3/8".

I find that up here the beaches don't like a good clean swell and tend to close out over 2 ft, luckily this is when the reefs start working. So i only really surf the beaches on the sloppy windswell you describe. This can form little wedges but they are usually short in length, have a steep take off then go fat. I ride either a 5`9" or 6`0" squash on these flat ish rocker and wider and thicker than my rounded pins.
I don't think fish are good on this type of wave as they are more for down the line carving. Yes you can go on youtube and find loads of video of the pros ripping on fish but they could do the same on a barn door. I also tried a quad fish for a while but found it just to tracky, it was as if you were stuck on rails. Gave it up after maybe 10 sessions and sold it.
I generally don't surf when its under shoulder high as find it a bit boring and tough to surf on my boards, tend to spend most of the time tic tacing along the wave whilst swinging my arms up and down. If i wanted to surf in smaller waves i would avoid all the retro boards and, like FD, get a long board as the longborders around here seem to be the ones having fun when its small.
Re swell hight i agree with FD you here wild estimates of wave heights in the uk, the biggest i have surfed would probably equate to around 6ft on a generally accepted scale around the world. This would equate to double overhead + ie 12-15ft faces.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 19, 2011, 05:24:43 pm
i agree with most of that but I still feel that if my 6'3 pintail was a 5'10 fish (23 wide instead of 18) I could still work the wave and cut it up into suppression on sub shoulder high waves.  at the moment i only have 2 and half boards, long, short and one that snapped in half. 

Am I being thick in saying a 3ft wave is the 3ft of the wave ABOVE the water lvl?  rather than the swell height.

My local consists of beach breaks and pitiful short reefs


Might get jason to make me a wee nip too:

(http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150126839174196&set=a.42004639195.63506.28833019195)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 19, 2011, 07:48:41 pm
 ;D the wave height debate is far, far worse than any V vs Font vs Tech grade argument in climbing.  As I've got older, more experienced, travelled a bit and surfed in foreign climes I tend to subscribe to the Aussie & Hawaiian scale which sort of correlates to the swell size running on a reef or wedge at a 12+ sec period. 

What this means in reality is that anything waist-high is flat to 1ft.

Shoulder high 5ft face is 1-2ft.

Head high 6-7ft face is 3ft

Head and a half 8-10ft face is 4-5ft

Double o'head 12-16ft face is 6ft

Fucking massive (by our UK standards) 15 - 20 ft face is 6-8ft.


It doesn't make any sense on paper but it just works  :-[

When I was in Hawaii I've surfed waves that would be described as 5-6ft here when it was 'flat' and our Aussie skipper in Indo describes what we think as freight train death maulers as 'fun'.

It's not a macho thing, it's just we don't get proper open ocean swell in Europe apart from the Canaries and the Azores.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on January 19, 2011, 08:41:35 pm
Very sad news:

http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/4822-welsh-surfer-tom-padden-dies-in-car-accident (http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/4822-welsh-surfer-tom-padden-dies-in-car-accident)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dr T on January 19, 2011, 10:25:28 pm
there's been a load of video shot at Jaws...
here's some more.... (http://www.brainfarmcinema.com/video/video_5.aspx)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2011, 08:37:23 am
Warning - do not look at this link unless you want to see a bloke with a piece of surfboard stuck in his face.

http://www.rationalskepticism.org/general-chat/surfer-lucky-surfboard-embedded-in-his-face-t15963.html (http://www.rationalskepticism.org/general-chat/surfer-lucky-surfboard-embedded-in-his-face-t15963.html)

I warned you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 20, 2011, 12:56:47 pm
Fully pumping!!! Four Ft and really clean! good low tide banks! Fistral of course...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 20, 2011, 04:16:22 pm
The Eddie could be called today...

Watch live at http://theeddie.quiksilver.com/home.en.html (http://theeddie.quiksilver.com/home.en.html)

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 20, 2011, 06:59:39 pm
No Eddie

Tough call by George Downing and the organisers.

Waiting period ends 21st Feb.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 20, 2011, 09:59:54 pm
Gentlemen... Tis not about height, tis about girth!  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 25, 2011, 06:31:38 pm
had a long session yesterday on waist high slightly choppy super shorebreak style waves yesterday - rushed to the sea after work at 3 and smashed the shite out of a dozen peeling lefts slightly over head at a secluded sheltered beach near mine.  ace - please tell me you were all out today?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 25, 2011, 06:44:38 pm
this is my source of weakness now, outrunning the wave and cutting back up the top of the wave.  To me i think the key is the slight crouch out of the end to get the power back down the wave - many times my arm flailing and pointing back down the wave leaves me over the top of it when I don't get the power back with a good lean on the forward knee.  (i cant fully snap but its more of a pivot)

Im also focusing on going over the top of sectioned out waves rather than going around them - smashing the lip of the wave/broken white water to go over it as my local beach break seems to section quite often. 
 
On a bit of a NNFN i was so blind on a rocky hidden pocket spot the other day I managed to mangle the nose of my mal that I rarely surf.  Its pretty much a 7'2 log and fun to play around with on 3ft waves etc.  Hit a rock and went head over heels.  GME et al, what do you surf in the sub 5ft (If you go out at all)  as mentioned before I still want a old fish

I was about to compliment you on getting through a whole post without saying 'wedge' but then you said ...
aye i meant face, 5 ft wedges we get up here messy beach breaks usually

Is Sunderland pier on Oahu or Kauai?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 25, 2011, 06:54:11 pm
aye i know, im a man of short vocabulary. we only do them here, no other type of wave (apart from shit) - and i got in seaham today if anyone has ridden it. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 27, 2011, 09:44:21 pm
Volcom pipe pro on.
Really good waves really good surfing. Bit of a local comp for local people which makes for very good barrels
lucky bastards as I have not been properly wet for weeks. Worst winter I can remember. It's so bad I have managed to develop a finger injury.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 27, 2011, 10:21:00 pm
how did you do at the comp at climb newc?  I didnt end up going, shoulder is still bad and last time i went to a comp was durham with watson and porter and i managed to make it worse. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 27, 2011, 11:09:14 pm
I did the last durham comp to. Adam won

I was in the vets. Came joint 2nd I think.

Didn't do that well at Newcastle as I had surfed all day first.

Tweeked my finger on the motherboard at the works. Not too bad though. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 28, 2011, 08:54:22 am

I was in the vets.

Dog trouble? :)

Not been in water since 3rd. So bad I have actually been to the climbing wall twice this year already.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 28, 2011, 09:36:52 am
John John Florence won. Really good surf and comp, ended up sitting up until 1am watching it. Lucky bastards.
Looking at the charts up here you would think it was August. I have never known a winter like this.
Have been coping ok until watching the comp last night but now pissed off. I need to get wet.
I was supposed to be in Aus for two weeks (work but i should get in the sea a good bit) on the 6th feb but have just put it back 4 weeks until march so fingers crossed we get something.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2011, 06:50:10 pm
Forecast for the East Coast for the next week is off the charts. And not in a good way. Are you sure this is winter?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 30, 2011, 09:13:18 pm
I have been surfing 12 years now and living next to the beach for the last 4 and have never ever known a winter like this. We had more surf in August and it shows no signs of changing. I have almost given up looking.
Big swell hitting the north coast which i would normally try to head up for but too busy. I haven't been to Thurso this winter either for the first time in 6 years as there has never been a swell that has offered the minimum of three days surf to make the trip worth while.
Uk surfers try to convince ourselves is good here when in fact its shite other than a hand full of days a year.

Head north if you can Chris it looks like it will be pumping.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2011, 08:34:29 am
I'm trying to accumulate credit for a weekend in Glen Coe the weekend after next, so I don't think it will fly.

Hopeing a bit of the swell will wrap around to Fraserburgh, or even better, Banff. But the low looks to be dying out before it gets too far east.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on January 31, 2011, 04:19:12 pm
Good week of waves, and a good forecast for the coming week...
Its fully cold now too!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 01, 2011, 11:38:39 am
Talking about the Orkneys, and one of the boys on the recent 3 month epic trip there (10 surf days!), and Gor was on about The Old Man Of Hoy... Apperently, Aliens is a reef formed by a colapsed monolith... similar to TOMOH!
They want to demolish TOMOH!!! hahaha! Jet Skis and Dynamite!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 01, 2011, 03:02:29 pm
you get the same sort of wave - though much messier and less consistent from the collapse of half of marsden rock.

You hear about projects putting in artificial reefs, has anyone surfed one here?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 01, 2011, 11:30:45 pm
random french surf question... bear with me... newbie gay on tray asking for advice...

OK.

7 years ago I went to Brittany... family holiday.. had fun. camping on a nice little site nr guillnivac. ( northern end of the long north to south coastline, BUT 5 km from ponte de la torche over land)

I learnt my first lessons there, you know... losing flippers... eating sand... going round and round etc... all the waves seemed massive.

Big advantage was that it's near  to no drive from the ferry, and has real flat bays for very little kids and then you can pop over the headland for the pont de la torche beach break. not so vital now.

Now.. I'm no bodyboarder with skills. But 2 weeks in last years august at cayton saw me 4 days of clean lined up 3 to 4 ( perhaps) ft waves that I  had  a wicked time with.

I'm sure I'll never see that again, there ,at that time of year when I'm on holiday.....

So.... to avoid disappointment I'll be considering brittany again... I'm averse to devon / Cornwall as it will be in the height of the august summer holidays & we will camp en famile in a massive tent... so apart form the travel costs in essence the location is not different in cost terms. France will be less packed.. not just in the line up.. but on the beach!

What's the score on reasonably short drives from the ferry port to good probs of surf ( remember.. body boarding, so just about anything over 3 ft is OK, irregardless of wave quality in all honesty.. I'm on holiday!) in brittany? I am remembering pont de la torche with rose tinted specs? or is it OK?

beach breaks only please ( kids dont like getting mauled)

cheers..





Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 02, 2011, 04:53:49 pm
sounds like you had an amazing time but i'm guessing that their beach breaks are going to be as consistent as ours on the east coast in the summer.  I can only imagine what the crowds are like in august down cornwall though. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 02, 2011, 05:33:44 pm
The Gower!
Ireland?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2011, 05:36:16 pm
I think Brittany coast would be somewhat more reliable than UK east coast, although it will lose the Northern Atlantic due to the British Isles swell shadow. Not to say it will be great though.

Fatdoc, it may be worth browsing Stormrider's Guide to Europe next time you are passing Waterstone's; wealth of information there. I think the topless bodyboarder only features in the old edition.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: duncan on February 02, 2011, 10:06:16 pm
The secret life of waves (BBC4) (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00y5jhx/The_Secret_Life_of_Waves/).  Science, philosophy and even some surfing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 02, 2011, 10:19:59 pm
I think Brittany coast would be somewhat more reliable than UK east coast, although it will lose the Northern Atlantic due to the British Isles swell shadow. Not to say it will be great though.

Fatdoc, it may be worth browsing Stormrider's Guide to Europe next time you are passing Waterstone's; wealth of information there. I think the topless bodyboarder only features in the old edition.

cheers... getting  a copy off Norton.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on February 02, 2011, 10:25:49 pm
I think Brittany coast would be somewhat more reliable than UK east coast, although it will lose the Northern Atlantic due to the British Isles swell shadow. Not to say it will be great though.

Fatdoc, it may be worth browsing Stormrider's Guide to Europe next time you are passing Waterstone's; wealth of information there. I think the topless bodyboarder only features in the old edition.

cheers... getting  a copy off Norton.

I know nothing about surfing - but if its any background help, I had a great holiday with some casual bouldering last Summer in Brittany... (and Normandy)
TT

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15824.msg276179.html#msg276179 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15824.msg276179.html#msg276179)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 02, 2011, 10:38:24 pm
NICE...

I'll factor that it for sure.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 02, 2011, 11:04:12 pm
La torche is a good wave. Not world class or anything but fun. Good left to the nort side of the peninsular with rights to the south.  South side gets a bit of shelter  any winds with north in them.It's usually mobbed though and you need to hassle for waves.
 Loads of other spots nearby. Basically thefurther north you go the more swell you need. There is a long peninsular on the south coast of Brittany with loads of campsites that gets more swell.
I would personally go to hossegor in landes if I was going to France but my family come second to surf quality when deciding where we go on holiday. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 02, 2011, 11:36:33 pm
good knowledge...

cmon.. where's the best best venue in your opinion avec  en famille
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 02, 2011, 11:54:34 pm
Gets a bit "deep man" at the end...

The Secret Life of Waves (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00y5jhx)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 02, 2011, 11:57:45 pm
NICE...

I'll factor that it for sure.

Nice is in the south east of France, not Brittany.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on February 03, 2011, 12:13:10 am
Nice is in the south east of France, not Brittany.
and your link was added 4 posts up.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 03, 2011, 08:16:42 am
 :oops: Not a thread I follow closely, no harm done.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 03, 2011, 09:34:36 am
We have had loads of good holidays in the Landes region anywhere between Hossegor and Arcachon.
We go in the van and usually stay at Cap d l homy. http://www.camping-cap.com/english/index.htm. (http://www.camping-cap.com/english/index.htm.)

Its a municipal campsite right in the forest at the back of the dunes. There is a German surf school there so lots of germans which is a bit weird in the south of France. Its pretty basic but we like that. There are bungalows on the site as well.
If you want a villa option try Moliet plage just down the coast.
You will get surf here, if there is non here there will be non in Europe. I have had some of the best waves of my life along this coast.

Still lots to do with the family, from cycling to chateaus. Big waterpark in hossegor and Barritz is amazing.
You can get there in around 8 hours from St Malo ferry or even better 1 1/2hrs from Bilbao ferry (not cheap but the best way to get to Europe with the family).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 03, 2011, 11:29:16 am
Great info, will look into that, cheers.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 03, 2011, 11:38:00 am
We go in the van and usually stay at Cap d l homy. http://www.camping-cap.com/english/index.htm. (http://www.camping-cap.com/english/index.htm.)
Ah someone else who's been to Cap dl Homy!  We came across it by chance on a round Europe trip a few years back and stayed a week, then went back again last year. The municipal site is great as you say and you pay municipal rates rather the private site rates.  It's also much cheaper in a van as they put you in the van part near the entrance, still only 2mins walk to the showers and washing up sinks with hot water..

A great spot as you say, tarmac cycle tracks up and down  the coast so you can cycle to the next village up for lunch + there's a funky little lighthouse to go up.  Close enough to the beach you can jog down for a dawnie and pick the croissants up for brownie points on your way back up.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 03, 2011, 12:02:36 pm
I was told about it by a german climber friend. The first time i went was late may and we were the only non germans on the site, its a bit more french in the summer. It ticked all the boxes for my other half as the toilets and showers are all clean and not the french type.

Waves are not as good as hossegor but still fun. I would go to hossegor on a surf trip but when the family is in tow homy is perfect.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 03, 2011, 02:24:56 pm
Surfed Fly Cellars today! EPIC!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 03, 2011, 10:17:06 pm
I was told about it by a german climber friend. The first time i went was late may and we were the only non germans on the site, its a bit more french in the summer. It ticked all the boxes for my other half as the toilets and showers are all clean and not the french type.

Waves are not as good as hossegor but still fun. I would go to hossegor on a surf trip but when the family is in tow homy is perfect.

the missus is well impressed!

looks like its a goer. where do you get the ferry from the Uk?

Sorry for being lazy... but the info on here is better than google.

cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 03, 2011, 10:40:34 pm
Both options from Portsmouth. I prefer the bilbao one as the holiday starts as soon as you get on the ferry. Drive on, eat, few beers theN in your cabin for the night. Wake up in Spain with two hours driving to do.
The st malo way is not overnight and you have a big drive through France so I never feel on holiday until I get there. It's a lot cheaper though. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 03, 2011, 11:24:52 pm
seems like it's 31 hours on the ferry... could have read that wrong. for 14 nights away,  and if the roads are good I can drive 8 hours from St Malo no bother.. may be better for the short ferry? as there is less time total travelling??


I'm not sure. keen for opinion... thanks... getting excited by the ferry being a mini cruise mind!  I will need a cabin or two though  :( ( four kids) = a load of cash... ( website asking me to phone for quotes, never a good sign!)



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on February 04, 2011, 09:04:51 am
seems like it's 31 hours on the ferry... could have read that wrong. for 14 nights away,  and if the roads are good I can drive 8 hours from St Malo no bother.. may be better for the short ferry? as there is less time total travelling??


I'm not sure. keen for opinion... thanks... getting excited by the ferry being a mini cruise mind!  I will need a cabin or two though  :( ( four kids) = a load of cash... ( website asking me to phone for quotes, never a good sign!)

Condor ferries were loads cheaper than Brittany ferries last year...... a wee bit cheap and cheeful but perfectly fine..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 04, 2011, 09:15:25 am
Yeah we condor'ed it to st.malo, then down.  We actually spent the first week in the Pyrenees so the drive down was even longer but its nice driving - sit back on the empty peage, stopping now and again to refuel on cakes at Paul patisseries in the services.. that always feels like holiday to me.

As Gme says the waves aren't as good as other spots up/down the coast but it gets waves, the beach is nice and the family will love it (biggest bonus is people can come/go from the beach at different times as its 2mins walk from le camping)

can email you a couple of pics of the camping/beach if your missus needs inspiration :-) PM me if so

p.s. how's your german?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Drewski Rootbitch on February 04, 2011, 09:19:21 am
Why would you name a ferry company 'Condor Ferries'?
Of course after that famous seabird the condor!
This has got me thinking and googling,
just found 'Kiwi Airlines'...even better
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2011, 09:49:50 am
theres an Emu Airlines and an Ostrich Airlines too.

No Dodo though - gap in the market there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on February 06, 2011, 09:48:11 am
While you lot have all been freezing we've all been baking in 40 degree heat for the past week. Thankfully yesterday brought a small but clean swell to keep everyone cool (all the shots from Manly)

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/manly_summer-10.jpg)

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/manly_summer-3.jpg)

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/manly_summer-4.jpg)

There'll be a few more on my blog (http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com) shortly



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 06, 2011, 02:16:50 pm
so why werent you in the water?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 06, 2011, 03:07:28 pm
what about here for my grandes vacances en famille holiday in august?

http://www.beachwizard.com/beach.asp?country=France&beachid=6980 (http://www.beachwizard.com/beach.asp?country=France&beachid=6980)

I'm considering the smaller drive as being helpful... need to balance this up with wave quality / driving / logistics etc.. 

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 06, 2011, 04:24:25 pm
answered my own question, in a fairly scary way...

by using magucseaweeds historical data set.

I reckon I  could end up at La Torche. Stats wise it has the better waves in august. travelling wise it was !,400 for the bilbao ferry.... the 8 hr drive instead would necessate an extra day travelling there and probably back ( kids can only watch so many DVDs in a row!)

in any event, it will be a great trip!!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 06, 2011, 10:46:48 pm
While you lot have all been freezing we've all been baking in 40 degree heat for the past week. Thankfully yesterday brought a small but clean swell to keep everyone cool (all the shots from Manly)

Lived in Fairlight for 6 months so miss good old Manly, sweet to see photos from there...   

However, whilst you lot have been baking in 40 degree heat and surfing small but clean swells, we have been getting togged up in our gimp suits and surfing pumping waves of the large/clean variety minus the crowds.  I'm a 'ranga', so hate the heat and love the cold, so I know which I'd prefer :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on February 07, 2011, 01:21:05 am
so why werent you in the water?

Id have got my camera wet  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 07, 2011, 08:12:13 am
what about here for my grandes vacances en famille holiday in august?

http://www.beachwizard.com/beach.asp?country=France&beachid=6980 (http://www.beachwizard.com/beach.asp?country=France&beachid=6980)


Don't do it..   we stopped for a couple of days round there enroute South.  Waves are ok but the coast is grim, really built up the whole way along there in that naff seaside apartmenty kinda way.  Surfed that reef Sauzaie which was good though  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on February 07, 2011, 12:06:57 pm
cheers....

Lookin at brittany this year, then further south next when the youngest will be easier to keep in the van for such a long time.

thanks for all help guys
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2011, 03:34:58 pm
http://www.driftmagazine.co.uk/index.php/archives/7301 (http://www.driftmagazine.co.uk/index.php/archives/7301)

LeRoy Grannis has died. End of an era, thanks for the photos. RIP.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 08, 2011, 11:41:36 am
NEV... R.I.P!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 08, 2011, 04:11:56 pm
NEV... R.I.P!

As in Nev future shapes??   :'(

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 08, 2011, 04:29:47 pm
has it been confirmed then?  I thought he was still missing?  lifeboats had a bumpy time out looking over the weekend
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 09, 2011, 10:48:40 am
They were looking for two bodys, a kiteboarder was missing too! The details are a little raw to just put up here... If any one knew Mark, and wants the to know the deal so to speak, PM me...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on February 10, 2011, 09:32:12 am
Nice short vid of Reubyn Ash on msw:

http://magicseaweed.com/A-Question-of-Style-Content/3055/ (http://magicseaweed.com/A-Question-of-Style-Content/3055/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 10, 2011, 12:38:56 pm
Nice vid. Its great to see flow between airs and multiple manovers on a wave. It used to be a case of pumping as fast as you can along a face then pop one air at the end.
He still has a way to go to get a part in the new Modern collective but he is good.

I have now not been in the water for 4 weeks which is the longest period in a good four years, i have no idea whats happend to the winter but something has.

I am now saving up for one of these to make sure this does not happen again.

Teaser I (http://vimeo.com/19186483)

It is rumoured to be completely portable, all you need is a suitable body of water. The one in the video looks like a hole in a field with a big pond liner covering it.
Now wheres my spade!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 10, 2011, 01:14:35 pm
I saw that trailer the other day - looks mental.  Apparently that one is in Northern Spain somewhere.  What 'it' is I have no idea though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 10, 2011, 01:28:34 pm
There going to tell us all about it when the website is released next week on the 15th. I am told that it is going to be a commercial venture not just a one off.

If its 10s rather than 100s of thousands ones going on my christmas list.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on February 10, 2011, 01:59:03 pm
Wow, I want one. Even my learning curve would have to improve with one of those!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 10, 2011, 02:00:39 pm
Starting looking for a plot of cheap land less than an hour away. now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on February 10, 2011, 02:03:35 pm
A ukb syndicate wave pool  :-\
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 10, 2011, 05:08:48 pm
sounds good   :thumbsup:   the wave on that video looks so clean.

Did you not sneak any of the clean swell that passed through this morning?  got a nice couple of hours this morning at a point break near mine then FINALLY a reef working that gave small clean lefts on the turn of tide.


Oh also, bargain of the day?

http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-5mm-X-Flex-2010/Item/7735/ (http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-5mm-X-Flex-2010/Item/7735/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 10, 2011, 05:24:50 pm
I must have been tiny, unless you really have some kind of wave machine going on. I spoke to everyone i know up and down the coast from Scarborough through redcar, tynemouth, newbiggin, bamburgh and pease and no one got in the water. It was waist high at best.

I am desperate to go for a surf and even thought about heading down to that well know secret spot in Yorkshire that was probably shoulder high today but couldnt face the drive as i have already done over a thousand miles this week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 10, 2011, 05:46:46 pm
aye like I say it was pretty small and shallow, about waist high but still worth getting in for IMO. was in with a lad called tomma? if you know him.  Was still fine on a shortboard and some decent long lefts on the set.  It only worked when the wind changed - blades and the peak down my end


edit: I realise my english is terrible.  Have you not tried some of the hartlepool areas?  Couple of my mates said that they have had some pleasant sessions during the day there on days like tuesday morning.  Defo not worth driving to yorkshire for though, if I had to travel more than 5 minutes to the place i was today I wouldnt have bothered.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 10, 2011, 07:37:57 pm
If it's the tomma who owns secret spot in Scarborough yes I know him.
I know a lad (danny) who surfs Hartlepool a fair bit.
I tend not to travel more than fifteen mins in general other than to goto that reef in yorks. Or sometimes the points.
Good effort getting in I really can't be fussed unless it is a least shoulder high.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 10, 2011, 08:40:53 pm
different toma but now you mention it, I ordered a set of fins last friday from secret spot and still nowt, no email or anything and the website is down.  Ill give em a ring tomorrow about it
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 11, 2011, 08:21:26 am

Oh also, bargain of the day?

http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-5mm-X-Flex-2010/Item/7735/ (http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-5mm-X-Flex-2010/Item/7735/)

Aargh don't tempt me. I might just wait a while until the LTs go out of stock.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 11, 2011, 10:23:31 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgWYCN1-aqI&feature=player_embedded#at=15 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgWYCN1-aqI&feature=player_embedded#at=15)

Ballsy paddle in at Jaws.  The white water looks horrific....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on February 11, 2011, 10:54:39 am
Shipsterns Christmas Eve (http://vimeo.com/18356216)

Mean't to post this a while ago. Good to see santa finding time out from his delivery run to catch a wave or two...and am I mistaken or is there one guy swigging on a drink can?

Actually, this vids better:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCHeUk4Iqwg&feature=player_embedded#at=224 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCHeUk4Iqwg&feature=player_embedded#at=224)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on February 11, 2011, 11:18:08 am
Shipsterns Christmas Eve (http://vimeo.com/18356216)

Mean't to post this a while ago. Good to see santa finding time out from his delivery run to catch a wave or two...and am I mistaken or is there one guy swigging on a drink can?

Actually, this vids better:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCHeUk4Iqwg&feature=player_embedded#at=224 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCHeUk4Iqwg&feature=player_embedded#at=224)
  Strewth, Dave, the guys an Aussie.  Of course he's drinking beer while surfing.....  :beer1:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on February 11, 2011, 11:49:13 am
I saw that trailer the other day - looks mental.  Apparently that one is in Northern Spain somewhere.  What 'it' is I have no idea though.

I'll go twos with you Ben if you wnat to set up the Chinley Surf School!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 11, 2011, 01:13:19 pm
Yeah, Brian might find we've dug up his paddock whilst he's away in NZ  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 12, 2011, 10:23:04 pm
Got the bug back today. Chunky south east swell so four of us checked a new reef we have had our eye on for a while. Solid four to five foot with not a breath of wind. Two waves a reef/ point left and a left right peak. Being a goofy I headed to the left. Really good wave not hollow on the shit swell we had today but would be I guess on better swell. Great to still be finding unridden waves in the uk. Now called meat ( the left) and veg( the peak). 

 I got a bit cocky and ended up caught inside on the biggest set of the day ( well double overhead)and got a goodeight to  ten sec hold down then another to make sure I didn't do it again.
Ten secs feels like a long time when your under water.
A tourist took a few pics and is going to email them. Will post them if he does. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 12, 2011, 10:53:48 pm
green with envy of you right now.  complete wash out south of the river(s)  nothing working.  My mate text me saying blyth was going off - clean and glassy but I didnt get it till I got in, to then be told again I was in the wrong place!  Tomorrow im heading north early though the wind looks suspect.  Sounds like you had an ace session, there is nothing better than finding a reef that is both working and empty
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 14, 2011, 01:58:43 pm
off work today, managed to score some clean waist high waves inside the pier wall.  My mate got out and took a couple of photos, should be a shit surfing photo section somewhere but here goes:

caught inside

(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/022.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 14, 2011, 03:11:03 pm
Lost.Tv - Cory's Left full session (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-C0w4SuAg8#)

1:06

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on February 14, 2011, 03:58:13 pm
Massive spitting Barrel on Pampa at 12.00 this afternoon (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmUNlschCDw#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on February 14, 2011, 06:09:07 pm
http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-6mm-Infiniti-X-Zip-Hooded/Item/2077/ (http://store.magicseaweed.com/Xcel-Mens-6mm-Infiniti-X-Zip-Hooded/Item/2077/)

Anyone got experience of one of these? Seems a good buy.

I'm a bit scared about wearing 6mm of neoprene; will I be able to move?! Or is it the way forward for the east coast in winter?

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 14, 2011, 06:27:09 pm
well, i use the 5mm version (without hood) and its toasty, I never get cold.  that price is really good though, they are normally 300+
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigd942 on February 14, 2011, 06:31:06 pm
I've a c-skins 6/4 wired that's a few months old, it feels quite thick putting it on and taking it off, especially that last bit getting it past your feet after being in the water, besides that it feels fine in the water and I've never felt restricted in it, I have a c-skins 5/4 and used to wear a thermal rash with hood during the worst of the winter, that combo of rash and suit felt a bit more restrictive, probably due to friction between the materials, the 6/4 doesn't have that feeling.

I'm a sponger so would be more shoulders and legs, not really popping up except for the odd stab at drop knee. I'm north coast of Ireland, typically I'm in the water three to fours hours without any hint of chill except for the odd flush.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 14, 2011, 06:50:42 pm
In my opinion you're better off going for a better zip/closure system (Drylok) rather than adding more rubber.   GME will able to add more info as he's used several Excel suits on the East Coast for some years. 

Disclaimer: I'm a total fairweather tropical surfer these days so not best placed to comment on winter wear  :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 15, 2011, 07:25:34 am
I have not worn a 6mm for years. 5mm drylock is the way. I used to wear 6mm but the suits are getting better year on year. If you wait a few months there will be loads of bargins on the go.
Another good surf yesterday on my own. Hard work as constant paddling to stay on the peak as usual when we get a se swell.
Looked nice this morning as I left the house but on train to sheff now so no surf for me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 15, 2011, 08:35:39 am
Nigg and Aberdeen looked pretty good this morning too, but sadly not an option for me today either.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 15, 2011, 09:06:03 am
The lack of swell this year has almost been a blessing for me as work commitments would have meant missing a lot of sessions.
Flatness gets you down but missing good surf is about as much fun as a kick in the balls.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 15, 2011, 10:53:11 am
The lack of swell this year has almost been a blessing for me as work commitments would have meant missing a lot of sessions.
Flatness gets you down but missing good surf is about as much fun as a kick in the balls.
Lack of swell??  Sounds like the NE hasn't been too lucky, after a long flat spell it has been pumpin here for weeks on end and the winter reefs have sparked.  Ireland has been getting some huge swells.  I guess the swell window is quite small for you and if the storms don't track North far enough you all miss out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 15, 2011, 11:30:18 am
I guess the swell window is quite small for you and if the storms don't track North far enough you all miss out.

You reckon? :)  Also the fetch is pretty dismal compared to the SW.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 15, 2011, 12:06:45 pm
off work today, managed to score some clean waist high waves inside the pier wall.  My mate got out and took a couple of photos, should be a shit surfing photo section somewhere but here goes:

caught inside

(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/022.jpg)

Caught inside doesn't look that catstrophic there to be honest!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 15, 2011, 12:10:48 pm
I thought that. Compared to some of the poundings I've taken on the head.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 15, 2011, 02:33:42 pm
PJ has suffered bad head injury

http://www.thisissouthwales.co.uk/news/Emergency-brain-op-legend-accident/article-3211526-detail/article.html (http://www.thisissouthwales.co.uk/news/Emergency-brain-op-legend-accident/article-3211526-detail/article.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 15, 2011, 02:52:18 pm
I thought that. Compared to some of the poundings I've taken on the head.

Just got back from a surf at Putsborough '2 to 4ft' and looked pretty small on the webcams.  Paddled out, no worries and caught 6 or 7 nice shoulder high waves.  Only 6 people in :) 

3 of us over towards the cliffs spotted a lump on the horizon and started paddling out to sea, we all (just) managed to scratch over a monster set, each wave in it bigger than the previous. Solid overhead and half.  Very heavy compared to an average day at Puts.  Being on a 6''2 (under gunned and no chance of paddling into one of these beasts) and having previously experienced a thorough beating resulting in a hole in my thigh in similar conditions.  I took the decision to head in as quick as possible, the 2 others out with me made the same choice.  I got about half way in and turned around to see another beast set coming in, paddled towards it and duck dived the first one which ripped the board out of my hands.  Clambered back on to the view of an in coming wall of white water that I wasn't going to get under.  Ditched board and dived under.  Got picked up and rumbled shorewards in the wash cycle, trying to stay relaxed and come up when things chilled which seemed like forever.  Popped up gasping and was relieved to see I was a lot closer to shore.  The new boomer swell arrived early, 4 to park and a proper beating, should've gone to Exmoor Coast. Be careful out there peeps :spank: 

Will upload some piccies I took of big sets rolling through after I escaped.  Huge swell combined with offshores expected SW tommorow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 15, 2011, 03:58:00 pm
off work today, managed to score some clean waist high waves inside the pier wall.  My mate got out and took a couple of photos, should be a shit surfing photo section somewhere but here goes:

caught inside

(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/022.jpg)

Caught inside doesn't look that catstrophic there to be honest!

aye what i meant was, I was sitting shallow and rather than paddling around the peak, I tried to beat it and this was the spot where I was just about to turn around, should have called it, being too slow at paddling and a lazy twat
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on February 15, 2011, 06:44:35 pm
Down Falmouth/area on Saturday for a week.

Surfed Praa but not many other spots in the vicinity - recommendations?

Not interested in Porthleven. I'm not good enough.

Cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 15, 2011, 09:06:18 pm
Not too far to Sennen
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 15, 2011, 09:39:14 pm
Down Falmouth/area on Saturday for a week.

Surfed Praa but not many other spots in the vicinity - recommendations?

Not interested in Porthleven. I'm not good enough.

Cheers
Perranathuoe round the corner is nice and a bit quieter/mellower than Praa. Judging by the swell forecast and S/SW winds it would be worth trying porthmeor in st.ives, gwithian (anywhere from godrevy down to the rivermouth, depending on the swell size and wind direction).  Plus there's some primo bouldering at the top end of la plage..  well the same goes for Porthmeor actually!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 15, 2011, 10:24:35 pm
Quote
Surfed Praa but not many other spots in the vicinity - recommendations?
Here's the predictions for Gwenvor.

Sat = 7ft @ 11secs SW wind
Sun = 12.5ft @ 16secs SSW
Mon = 12ft @ 14 secs W
Tues =  8ft @ 12 secs W/SW
Wed = 7.5ft @ 12 secs SSE
Thurs = 11ft @13 secs WNW

shhheeeeeeeeeeeesh! You picked a ripe time to come down SW.  You'll need to keep a close eye on the swell charts and the
wind direction to make the most out of your visit.  This is all likely to change but you can expect all the 'regular' beachies to be big and blown out or big and maxed out or both.  You'll need to find sheltered spots with offshore winds,  unless you have a large pair and are a bit of a hell man.

Falmouth itself works on a big swell in a NW wind (look at Thursday!)...  Hayle rivermouth, the far south corner of Sennen will be smaller the rest will be huge, all the beaches round the corner at St Ives (Carbis bay etc..), St Agnes, Harlyn.... basically anywhere that doesn't face west into those winds (so not Perranuthnoe or Godrevy!).  The swells are big enough for waves to be wrapping into sheltered bays you just need to do some homework before you head out. Take care out there it's proper winter heavy waves at the moment.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on February 15, 2011, 10:58:24 pm
Cheers boys that's awesome.

Should be fun on my brand new board ridden twice before in slop.

Idol, I'll be in touch.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 16, 2011, 12:23:48 am
As promised here is P-Land Tuesday lunchtime.  Hard to get a perspective of wave size if you don't know the beach but those who do will know.

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5171/5449615440_a402d3911b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/5449615440/)
P2150049 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/5449615440/#) by granticus27 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25088302@N06/), on Flickr

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5449616398_5864254f3b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/5449616398/)
P2150040 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/5449616398/#) by granticus27 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25088302@N06/), on Flickr

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5449615964_4b7ce66789.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/5449615964/)
P2150038 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/5449615964/#) by granticus27 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25088302@N06/), on Flickr

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5449616176_5425e5b583.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/5449616176/)
P2150034 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25088302@N06/5449616176/#) by granticus27 (http://www.flickr.com/people/25088302@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 16, 2011, 09:12:55 am
I know well - looks awesome. Odd picture though - appears to be no-one on it?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 16, 2011, 11:32:21 am
There was 5 surfers and one lid skidder out before the swell hit.  All us surfers were on short boards in th 6ft range.  Waves 6 to 8ft..  Looks epic but extremely difficult to get into waves, especially on a little board as they were sucking up/ breaking top to bottom with speed and so everyone headed in.  No-one turning up fancied it which left no-one in the water.  A really grunting swell.  Smiles and banter on the beach afterwards.. 'Why didn't you stay out mate its' epic?' etc..

6 to 8 ft again today.    :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 16, 2011, 12:05:13 pm
Not knocking you, just odd to see it empty.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 16, 2011, 03:07:10 pm
More wave garden here

http://vimeo.com/wavegarden/videos (http://vimeo.com/wavegarden/videos)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 16, 2011, 05:51:11 pm
Not knocking you, just odd to see it empty.
Not taken as a knock I know from experience when I'm in too deep, run away... run away!. :) You're right it is very odd to see Puts empty especially when the wind is from the south as it was on this day.  Plenty of folks in the car park but no takers in the water.  The piccies just don't do justice to the size and shiftiness of it all.
Just goes to show you can get a surf without the crowds at plenty of spots if you're willing to give it a go.  I think I know where everyone would've been headed for though. :whistle:

I surfed the right at the famous Exmoor left for 3 hours on my own the day before.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on February 16, 2011, 06:51:02 pm
Do you mean 6-8ft faces, or 6-8ft swell (12-16ft faces)? Still confuses me.

Guessing 12-16ft from the amount of white water (i.e.how far out their breaking)?



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 16, 2011, 11:57:59 pm
Do you mean 6-8ft faces, or 6-8ft swell (12-16ft faces)? Still confuses me.

Guessing 12-16ft from the amount of white water (i.e.how far out their breaking)?

You and me both.  What do you want Hawaiian, Australian, North East, Scottish, Irish or SW wave measurement?

The swell size was in the 12ft region and it arrived around 3 hours before expected,    by the time it reached Puts beach it would equate to 6 to 8ft on the face (ie 3ft on the Hawaiian scale ::)).  The walls of white water on the set waves were over head high and the wave faces on the set waves were reaching double overhead for someone of average height.  Waves were breaking a loooooong way out and the paddle out when the sets started coming in would've been a beast but I was already out there so only had to scratch out 50 metres or so to get behind them.  No-one made it out after those that were out came in.  Probably in the region of a 200 metre paddle in from there to dry sand.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on February 17, 2011, 07:33:51 am
Ha ha! You're right, it's like a surfing V vs font grades debate.

Lets keep it simple:

- climbing = easy/hard/impossible
- surfing = small/head/massive


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on February 18, 2011, 01:12:27 pm
I saw this on ukc:

http://epetitions.scottish.parliament.uk/view_petition.asp?PetitionID=452 (http://epetitions.scottish.parliament.uk/view_petition.asp?PetitionID=452)

Worth signing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on February 18, 2011, 02:28:51 pm
 :agree:  :goodidea: Done..........
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 18, 2011, 09:24:07 pm
More wave garden here

http://vimeo.com/wavegarden/videos (http://vimeo.com/wavegarden/videos)

I've had a good long look at the website and the videos.  My verdict... it's shit.

Yes, a nice idea in recreating the bathymetry and hydrodynamics of a wave but as a surfing experience it looks bobbins.  Waist Sunderland head high (:P (sorry Philo couldn't resist  :hug:  ;)) gutless shite.  Fuck, I'd rather go to the pub.  If that's really the best footage and best they can do after all that investment then they're fucked.  It's no coincidence that all the videos are of kids on foamers,  bodyboarders and Alia boards:wank: ...


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 18, 2011, 09:38:53 pm
Foamers, bodyboarders and alia's. Fuck me it's going to be popular in the uk.
Now where's my bank managers no.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 18, 2011, 09:41:32 pm
some comments on that vimeo link about a larger wave is on its way!

and fyi im 6ft  :hug: :hug: :hug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 18, 2011, 10:02:09 pm
 :lol: sorry  :P

Larger wave on its way.... <chinny reckon emoticon>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 18, 2011, 10:23:09 pm
looks sweet though, anyone got a spare acre? Do you think it will spark a artificial wave culture like the indoor scene of climbing?  If you can get a perfect wave then your not going to drive an hour to the beach to get some shitty inconsistent swell are you?
Quote
Board Culture 1 day ago
Yes, this coming summer they will have shoulder high waves :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 19, 2011, 12:02:11 am
looks sweet though, anyone got a spare acre? Do you think it will spark a artificial wave culture like the indoor scene of climbing?  If you can get a perfect wave then your not going to drive an hour to the beach to get some shitty inconsistent swell are you?
Quote

I'm not gonna drive an hour to the beach for some shitty inconsistent swell coz it's 10 mins away :P  Nor would I drive for 10 mins for some shitty inconsistent swell, at least not deliberately anyway.  Nor would drive however far to, presumably pay good money, to surf an artificial wave.  It is worth waiting for the a slice of perfection served up the natural way and I would suggest that it is much more fun....

Maybe I could be swayed during a prolonged flat spell but being as we are currently spoiled for choice I couldn't think of anything worse than surfing a piddle artificial wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 19, 2011, 12:09:55 am
We already have our own artificial wave in the ne.
http://www.newcastlegateshead.com/site/things-to-do/flowrider-p530701#ProductList-/site/things-to-do/flowrider-p530701 (http://www.newcastlegateshead.com/site/things-to-do/flowrider-p530701#ProductList-/site/things-to-do/flowrider-p530701)

I am keen to have a go soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 19, 2011, 12:41:55 am
Surfing and bodyboarding at Newquay's flowrider (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aprivndd9P4#ws)

Here's footage from the one in Newquay...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 19, 2011, 12:45:30 am
Not quite as fun looking as one of these though...

Wave House San Diego (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqYmbrfX-7Q#)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 19, 2011, 12:15:59 pm
I didn't know there was a flowrider in Newcastle. Worth remembering if it's too wet to climb. And there's no surf. And Climb Newcastle was closed. And all the pubs burned down :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 19, 2011, 01:16:20 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 19, 2011, 02:05:56 pm
Paddling in at Prowlers... looks fun

Prowlers Surfing 16/02/11 (Paddle In) (http://vimeo.com/20096621)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 19, 2011, 02:21:31 pm
I didn't know there was a flowrider in Newcastle. Worth remembering if it's too wet to climb. And there's no surf. And Climb Newcastle was closed. And all the pubs burned down

Or add it to the list and go after you have burnt down the pub.

Prowlers looks ace, i would love to have a go. Sure it will be harder than it looks but i would def go. If you didnt paddle it looks like a piece of piss to tow on a wave that size.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 24, 2011, 01:36:03 am
IMAX - The Ultimate Wave Tahiti 2010 HD (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WEI5mJADfk#ws)

worth watching whilst you can, 45 minutes of beautiful waves
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on February 25, 2011, 01:26:28 pm
Been pumpin all year, not one day out of the water so far!!! getting a bit large on the odd occasion.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 25, 2011, 03:31:02 pm
i hate you right now.  we have had fuck all but a couple of sloppy 2nd's but nothing worth shouting about really.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 26, 2011, 12:14:36 pm
Been pumpin all year, not one day out of the water so far!!! getting a bit large on the odd occasion.
Trained for a comp (bouldering) first three weeks in Jan, won the comp  :strongbench:

Until yesterday, I haven't climbed since then, spare moments have been filled with surfing joy, swell after swell.  All the wintere spots have had good days, it finally looks like things will settle this weekk but not without some fun sized off shore beachie days to start the week.

Makes up for the flat start to the winter.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on February 27, 2011, 06:45:12 pm
Dorset!

From Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/video/video.php?v=10150095225029412&comments (http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/video/video.php?v=10150095225029412&comments)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on February 27, 2011, 07:07:59 pm
Well...

How to Measure (http://vimeo.com/9348526)

Anyone had a snugg suit made for themselves? Good to support the Brits if nowt else.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 27, 2011, 07:52:01 pm
how much is it to measure her?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on February 27, 2011, 09:47:54 pm
Could be house sitting in Bali for 6 weeks this summer. Any flights/surf beta greatly appreciated...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 28, 2011, 09:24:09 am

Anyone had a snugg suit made for themselves? Good to support the Brits if nowt else.

People on MSW who have rave about them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 01, 2011, 12:13:09 am
Could be house sitting in Bali for 6 weeks this summer. Any flights/surf beta greatly appreciated...

Not been, only ever surfed in the UK and Lanzagrotty.. But you might wanna aquire this book... http://www.indosurf.com.au/Sample%20Pages.pdf (http://www.indosurf.com.au/Sample%20Pages.pdf)   :google:

The images look truly amazing.

But heh.. We've been getting a little of this (see below) recently down this way.  :yes:

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/209637.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DubDom on March 01, 2011, 12:43:57 am
shit is that the bay just north of woolacombe?

Almost as good as the oul country
(Ireland for all ye ignorant sassanachs)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 01, 2011, 10:58:23 am
shit is that the bay just north of woolacombe?

Nope.  That is the classic trad slab venue Baggy Point in the background which would make it Croyde Bay which is to the South of Woolacombe bay between there and Saunton (not that anyone needs directions...).

You're thinking of Combesgate.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2011, 12:56:34 pm
Another amazing photo - N Devon wave breaking but no-one on it. :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 01, 2011, 11:42:46 pm
Another amazing photo - N Devon wave breaking but no-one on it. :)
Makes a refreshing change from the summer N Devon madness..  In the week, in the winter, when most are at work, there aren't any tourists and the waves are pumping, it is still possible to find empty perferction even at the best known spots.  Now you know why the 'locals' can be so grumpy at Croyde, they get used to this and then suddenly from Easter onwards all these random folk appear and start getting in the way.

Surfed the point at Croyde yesterday on my own for a couple of hours..  Think rights could be the new lefts. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 02, 2011, 10:43:19 am
Well...

How to Measure (http://vimeo.com/9348526)

Anyone had a snugg suit made for themselves? Good to support the Brits if nowt else.
Pippa Harrison...
You can swap cash for a temporary clothing removal service with her!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 02, 2011, 11:17:46 pm
I first stood up and rode a wave on a proper surfboad over twenty five years ago so when I watch stuff like this it just blows my mind how far things have come and how much there is still to learn...

The Fatal Shore (http://vimeo.com/19891479)

Amazing.... (04:15 especially..)



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 03, 2011, 12:43:13 pm
more goofer pr0n on the other channel:

Matt Meola - $100,000 Innersection edit (http://vimeo.com/20573952)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 03, 2011, 02:16:21 pm
I just downloaded the whole innersection dvd. Its great, my fave of the last 12 months. Well worth downloading. Great sections by a few names that most wont have heard of. The Mike Devries section with surf in Canada reminds me of what surfing is like in the UK (plus bears).

The whole innersection idea is pretty cool and would work for bouldering too without much difficulty. It involves individuals entering there own clips on a website which the viewers then vote on which clips are best. At the end of each year the best clips are re edited and stuck to gether on one dvd. The only difference being is that climbing would struggle to put up the $100,000 first prize that got all the top boys entering.

I first stood up at hells mouth 13 years ago under the guidance of falling down and have seen the sport develop so much. It really has got to the point where they are doing things that even those with a futuristic eye would not have dreamed off.

Whilst saying that its even more amazing that the bald one is still at the top of the tree.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 03, 2011, 04:57:37 pm
The whole innersection idea is pretty cool and would work for bouldering too without much difficulty. It involves individuals entering there own clips on a website which the viewers then vote on which clips are best. At the end of each year the best clips are re edited and stuck to gether on one dvd.

Watch this space.......   ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 03, 2011, 10:26:15 pm
Edit, having a hard time finding a set of lokbox twin fins for my fish.  They need to be this style:

http://store.magicseaweed.com/product.php?productId=3706 (http://store.magicseaweed.com/product.php?productId=3706)


everywhere is sold out or dont stock them.  Similar styles but same dimensions needed, fucking lokbox are like gold - fsc and future force them out?



This is the board it is for:

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wnr637QdTQE/TTHSuOcEQKI/AAAAAAAABtI/r5quusdKTS4/s1600/newfish1.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 03, 2011, 11:55:09 pm
Have you tried Rainbow Fins?  I have their contact details if you can't get hold of them..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on March 04, 2011, 07:52:03 am
From MSW:
http://community.magicseaweed.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=26365 (http://community.magicseaweed.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=26365)

Fluid Juice also stock Lokbox http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/pages/other.htm (http://www.fluidjuice.co.uk/pages/other.htm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 04, 2011, 11:43:41 am
more goofer pr0n on the other channel:

All goofer apart from the switch stance pig dog barrel at 3.00mins  8)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on March 09, 2011, 10:19:11 pm
Gotta love Slater- another one in the bag!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 09, 2011, 10:23:17 pm
aye indeed, one of a kind that boy.  Anyone been out recently?  Had a great day last friday with a "0.5" ft swell that came clean and bigger.  Sunday was good as well against the wall until 10 people jumped in and crowded out a bliss session. 

fingers crossed this weekend  :pissed:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on March 09, 2011, 11:14:54 pm
Cayton was cranking on Sunday. And the sun as out. Good call Tomo etc.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 10, 2011, 12:14:53 am
In the land down under with work for ten days.

Had a few sessions with the crowds, fun 1-2 ft swell with nice banks. Its the type of thing i wouldn't bother with at home due to the pissing around getting all the gimp suit on but here its just a 1 min walk from my bedroom in a pair of boardies and teeshirt so worth doing.

The standard of surfing over here is leagues above the UK, even the hot spots. I like to think i am an average surfer at home but i am definitely a complete punter in reality.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 11, 2011, 09:01:42 am
Boardshorts.... ace!  Have fun.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 11, 2011, 09:40:51 pm
You would love it FD being a fair weather surfer and all that.
Its still a bit nippy mind in the morning the air temps barely break 20 degrees first thing, i have to put a teeshirt on.

I saw a kid of no more than 14 pulling air reverses for fun yesterday, must have landed 4 out of 5. He wasn't the only one either, whilst i still flail around trying to get a few mm of my tail out on top turns.

Need a new sport i think, crown green bowls is very popular over here, maybe try that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 12, 2011, 12:46:38 pm
The best surfer is the one having the most fun :)

(yeah right!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on March 13, 2011, 08:20:05 am
 mmmm, i like royal boards
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 13, 2011, 12:15:30 pm
i love the boards too.  my fish was great today and Friday, some nice pier wall sessions apart from the group of about 20 people who crowded out any chance of a good session. 
Today I had a nice dawnie, few of us in - then some cocks from further north got in and snaked most waves until a few lads told them to fuck off. 
Worst attitude ever though and needs to be put in line, one of those days i guess but next time ill be waiting on the beach.
I got out and had a bit of a pounding at a beach break instead.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 15, 2011, 02:30:21 am
More goofy prOn from the most stylish of the new school surfers, this was my favorite section From the innersection DVD and got my vote for the winner.
Knows how to carve like he is auditioning for morning of the earth but can also do every aerial trick in the book. Best goofy around at the minute with the exception of Mitch Coleborn.

The goofys are taking over the world, no longer do i have to sit with my back to the tv watching in a mirror.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/20907836" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/20907836">Craig Anderson Innersection Full Part</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user662043">360 To Nowhere</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on March 17, 2011, 12:10:30 pm
Heavy stuff:

http://santacruz.patch.com/articles/hawaiian-surfer-sion-milosky-dies-at-mavericks (http://santacruz.patch.com/articles/hawaiian-surfer-sion-milosky-dies-at-mavericks)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 17, 2011, 04:45:17 pm
Really grim..... seems to be really bad place for people getting into trouble and being lost in the melee perhaps because you can't get skis on the inside too well.

As a demonstration of how good and ballsy he was, this is him paddling into Peahi at 1:08 less than a month ago.

PEAHI - JAWS PADDLE IN SESSION - WINTER 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBVks8ZaN2I#ws)

RIP
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 17, 2011, 11:41:18 pm
Tragic. I have just read an article about him winning the north shore underground comp this winter. He leaves behind two kids as well.

I have a horrible feeling that this kind of stuff will happen more down to the fact that there are so many people surfing big waves now. It has almost become boring to watch as they go bigger and bigger, the scale has become cartoon like. Some footage of jaws maverick and waimea looklike a busy day at fistral.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 18, 2011, 04:57:57 pm
Shane Dorian at Peahi at a tribute paddle out to Sion Milosky on Wednesday... how close was he to exiting this barrel? 

Shane Dorian Monster Barrel - XXL Contender 3-15-11 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39y3c0_4oPs&hd=1#ws)

 :jaw:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 18, 2011, 06:03:17 pm
sick. imagine the speed in that turn he does, i love surfing
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on March 18, 2011, 06:16:58 pm
those last two clips completely blew me away, incredible stuff. Nice one for posting them
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on March 22, 2011, 05:48:05 pm
those last two clips completely blew me away, incredible stuff. Nice one for posting them

Yeah, cool tribute, balls of steel Sion......  :bow:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 30, 2011, 12:39:56 pm
SW boys - how good has it been these last few days?!  Fortunately all has changed today as my arms can't take any more.  Meant to be training for font next week but surfing has taken precedence.  Best waves were Monday evening, came round the bend driving down to my local break and saw a head and a half barrel unload right across the bay. Not quite as epic as those clips above but enough to me spooked a few times out there
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 30, 2011, 05:07:58 pm
I wonder how many people have crashed with one of those *look over the grass at the swell* looks you do as you crane your neck out of the window.   

Had a fun day in saltburn today - parked in a carpark (pub) that we have before and last time we were there the landlady said it was fine.  Got back to my car to find a nice *fake* penalty ticket for 60.  Im not paying it though as its from a shady company  called "EPN". 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 31, 2011, 11:13:51 am
Not been out the water, like, 45/55 sessions so far this year!!! been well on the last week! start doing my beach lifeguard training this week!!! fuckin gnarly! can only just about swim!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on March 31, 2011, 03:48:21 pm
Not been out the water, like, 45/55 sessions so far this year!!! been well on the last week! start doing my beach lifeguard training this week!!! fuckin gnarly! can only just about swim!

Do you not have a full stop button on your keyboard?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 31, 2011, 03:59:25 pm
Oooh, so cynical. Can't you tell he's STOKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 31, 2011, 05:18:21 pm
Er... Morse Code?
Sickest session ever today!! No Joke!
Week long swell windo with
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on March 31, 2011, 05:19:51 pm
...good wind's
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 02, 2011, 12:39:57 am
Week long swell windo with

Errrrrrrrrrrrrr. Far be it from me to be a pedant Mr Eyes  :jab:  but you can have a weeks worth of swell but a 'swell windo(w)' would be something completely different that couldn't be measured in weeks. ie. A swell window is more like a description of particular coast's exposure to a range of swell. eg. Ireland's west coast has much larger swell window than North Wales which has a very narrow swell window. 

Been some good sessions down here recently and I was officially swelteringly hot in my winter suit this evening's sunset session 'high tide' at that place on Exmoor that has some rather good bouldering.  Question is what do you drop first gloves, boots, hood or all of the above?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 02, 2011, 09:49:53 am
Gloves for me. Don't get the boots off until July really. I would say most people Here keep there boots on all year.
Been the worst year I can remember up here, if it was not for a work trip to aus I don't think My session count would have broken double figures
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 02, 2011, 11:46:40 am
disgusting isnt it?  Ive settled for some shitty rights off the pier wall from the northern swell we had but it was far from "good".  My hood is gone already, my hands are really hot in my gloves but i think i'd rather have em red hot than blue at the moment. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 03, 2011, 07:42:15 am
Worst winter ever.

Thinking about sacking it off and heading somewhere warm for a week next week. Anyone got any good Portugal recommendations; not too crowded, nice variety of waves within walking distance? Was thinking Ericeira?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 03, 2011, 06:58:10 pm
i am heading out to peniche with the family for two weeks on the 17th. Hoping for a bit of sunshine and warm water. Had it booked for a while so looking forward to it.
Have been to Ericeria a few times which is just down the coast but fancied staying somewhere different. Not staying in Peniche as its a bit of a working port so staying 10 mins away on belgas beach.

The whole coast is nice and has managed to avoid being fucked up by English tourists so still pretty Portuguese. Lisbon i great as well so loads to do.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 03, 2011, 07:44:22 pm
Nice, not been to Portugal at all, so quite fancy it. Got any accomodation recommendations for Ericeia? Pref S/C apt with maybe a pool as I expect sea will still be a bit chilly for the little one.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 03, 2011, 08:53:35 pm
Tell Chris about your swim/paddle/fun evening/touchingthevoidepic Gav  8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 05, 2011, 12:57:46 pm
Everyone loves a comeback:
http://magicseaweed.com/Clay-Marzo-Comeback--Content/3150/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Clay-Marzo-Comeback--Content/3150/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 05, 2011, 12:58:44 pm
Code: [Select]
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/21791864" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/21791864">Clay Marzo - The Comeback</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/findyourflow">Heavy Mayo</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 05, 2011, 01:05:49 pm


Clay Marzo - The Comeback (http://vimeo.com/21791864)

(Don't bother with html for embedding, just copy and paste the URL of the page the video is hosted on Vimeo/YouTube).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 05, 2011, 01:43:33 pm
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1372879/Britains-3-2m-artificial-surf-reef-closed-2-years-unsafe.html (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1372879/Britains-3-2m-artificial-surf-reef-closed-2-years-unsafe.html)

What a fucking waste of time and money.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 05, 2011, 01:47:44 pm
Another goofer, we shall take over the world eventually and be known thereafter as regular footed.

Marzo is freakishly good, and can do it in the big stuff as well. He is an interesting character as he has Aspergers which gives him some quite large social problems amongst other things. His DVD is well worth a watch (just add water) and it goes into his "gift" as its called in quite a bit of detail. Aspergers appears to be quite a common trait in high achievers as they seem to be able to ignore outside influence and do there own thing, in his case over and over again until its perfected without the boredom that most of us get.

Anyone with kids will find it pretty moving so make sure you have the hankies out for the end.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 05, 2011, 01:51:17 pm
And surfing natural breaks doesn't carry an element of objective risk that individuals assess for themselves before entering the water?

Oh wait, hang on thats in the Daily Fail, silly me.  :spank:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 05, 2011, 01:53:07 pm
What a fucking waste of time and money.

Not for the company who made it!!! I am looking for a new salesman at the minute, who ever sold them that would be perfect.

Without trying to stir up a political storm this is a great example of how our local government waste our monies every year.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 05, 2011, 02:02:39 pm
Indeed. I think Kerry Black is your man gme.

And for people who miss the point and choose to concentrate more on the source of the link rather than the content, here are some other links saying pretty much the same thing.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/8424616/Artificial-surf-reef-in-Bournemouth-closed-to-the-public.html (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/8424616/Artificial-surf-reef-in-Bournemouth-closed-to-the-public.html)

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-12924327 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-12924327)

http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/5324-authorities-close-the-boscombe-artificial-surf-reef (http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/5324-authorities-close-the-boscombe-artificial-surf-reef)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 05, 2011, 02:07:23 pm
I don't disagree with it being a waste of money, just the Mail jumping on everything being "risky", err well yes, thats life, some things are more risky than others, fact.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 05, 2011, 03:30:16 pm
I want to know whether the idiot in the Telegraph really is a local surfer or just some idiot (or both)... I assume he's never surfed anywhere if he thinks a surfing English Channel windslop above a 2ft gap in some sandbags is hazardous.  Fucking punters  :wall:

I actually don't give a shit though to be honest. The phrase "Artificial Reef Bournemouth" is offputting enough to make me never want to go there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 05, 2011, 07:03:46 pm
trip to thurso anyone?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 05, 2011, 11:42:25 pm
That's gonna be one hell of small sponger to get stuck in a 2ft hole. :no:

Would come surfing at Thurso, only it's been banned due to it being dangerous, might get stuck in the kelp at low-tide and drown...  ::)

However, despite the drivel about danger etc... the reef at Boscombe is a bag of shite (well sand actually) and the manufacturers should come back and sort it out.  Clearly badly constructed and designed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 06, 2011, 09:07:30 am
I actually don't give a shit though to be honest.

I do give a shit. It's one thing for ASR to fleece gullible councillors and local government in UK and NZ, but the next stop on their Springfield Monorail tour is India.

http://www.surfermag.com/features/india%E2%80%99s-first-artificial-reef%E2%80%A6works/ (http://www.surfermag.com/features/india%E2%80%99s-first-artificial-reef%E2%80%A6works/)

Where the money could definitely be better spent helping millions of people living in poverty. The sooner they get exposed as the charlatans they are and that these things are not necessary and don't work, the better.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 06, 2011, 10:01:29 am
I went to Strandhill at the weekend with my brother and whilst he was getting dumped on by the waves I snapped these few shots of some random guy that I was quite pleased with, obviously nothing that special, but my first attempt at shooting surfing/fast moving sports in general...

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5594639826_e7eb224f92_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/5594639826/)
Wave your arms (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/5594639826/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5594639832_767220df47_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/5594639832/)
Twist the Hips (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/5594639832/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5594639842_f17a0395c6_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/5594639842/)
Look back at the spary (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/5594639842/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr

@SA Chris : Any organised, concerted effort to make the point that artifical reefs are a waste of time?  I just found this suggestion (http://www.theinertia.com/environment/myth-artificial-reefs-work/) which seems focused on the US, but clearly the problem is further afield than there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 06, 2011, 10:25:36 am
Dunno slackers, there was some things on MSW at one point, will need to look.

Nice shots btw, I really like the high angle you are shooting from. Second one is best IMO.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 06, 2011, 11:16:51 am
Number 2 is the shot Slackers ...... ttttthhhhhhhhhhhwwwwwwwwwwaaaaaaackkkkkkkk!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 12, 2011, 12:32:10 am
A Little 'Heads up'...  Cold Water Classic in Thurso East starts on Wednesday, forecast is looking extremely promising for the comp to actually be held at Thurso (rather than Brimms) could be worth watching the webcast.  Wednesday arvo/ evening = pumping swell and very light winds combo looks very special...  :popcorn:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 12, 2011, 08:31:24 am
The forecast is the best I have. Seen for Thurso in two years.
Lucky bastards

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 12, 2011, 04:05:52 pm
I agree, makes you sick watching the drivel we have - had a cheeky dawnie on sat and sun with 0 people but me in, some waist to shoulder rights from the pier.  This weekend looks to be amazing up north, you not heading up?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 12, 2011, 06:19:29 pm
I would have if I wasn't going to Portugal for two weeks on Sunday with a similar forecast. Warm water and waves. Supertubes action.

Now if only a deadly virus that only effected bodyboarders would break out my trip would be perfect.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 12, 2011, 06:39:38 pm
ah the envy, do you miss the easter hols too? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 13, 2011, 10:28:52 am
Thanks to GME for the email reminder.

http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Live.html (http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Live.html)

Thurso comp live on t'interweb..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2011, 11:11:44 am

Now if only a deadly virus that only effected bodyboarders would break out my trip would be perfect.

There is one, it's called gayness ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 13, 2011, 04:10:17 pm
love the surfing, some nice barrels.  dont really like the commentating though
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 13, 2011, 05:02:24 pm
It looks the dogs, wish i was surfing. TE really is a great wave when its a decent size, good when its small for the regulars but not on your back hand as its so fast. When its bigger it stays more open. you can see that in the webcast.

I cant believe i have not been up there this winter, first time in many years
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2011, 05:04:52 pm
good when its small for the regulars but not on your back hand

Fucking goofo! (not that I've ever surfed it)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 14, 2011, 08:40:37 am
Cant believe you have never surfed it, one of the best waves in europe and your almost a local, a bit like living in Sheffield and never climbed at Stanage.

Get to it now.

Heres what we are missing

http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Scotland_Photos/Pages/Photos_-_Day_1_-_Round_of_96.html#33 (http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Scotland_Photos/Pages/Photos_-_Day_1_-_Round_of_96.html#33)

Lucky lucky boys
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 14, 2011, 08:50:24 am
http://www.eyeballhq.tv/2011/04/14/micahs-10-other-stories-cwc-day-1/ (http://www.eyeballhq.tv/2011/04/14/micahs-10-other-stories-cwc-day-1/)

Nice vid of happenings in the far North yesterday from Sharpy...

3 to 5ft light winds and pumping away at Croyde today, first day off of my 2 and half week Easter hols, I only went and promised Mrs Granticus to take her out for the day.  :wall: doh! 

Bit smaller tommorow but still looks promising so could be worse..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2011, 08:51:48 am
Not really sheffield / stanage, more like sheffield / dartmoor, its a solid three hours drive from here, with loads of lovely breaks along the way which suit me better; I don't think I am good enough for it and would probably get demolished.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 14, 2011, 09:23:26 am
Not really sheffield / stanage, more like sheffield / dartmoor, its a solid three hours drive from here, with loads of lovely breaks along the way which suit me better; I don't think I am good enough for it and would probably get demolished.

'You don't know until you go!' - Getting demolished is part of the fun.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2011, 10:04:40 am
Hmm, perfect mellow points all to myself an hour or so away, or 3 hours drive to duke it out with the crowds for a wave or two only to get pounded on a slab hmmmmm.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 14, 2011, 10:21:15 am
slab pounding would be my choice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2011, 10:47:06 am
That's cos you are a hellman, not a pussy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on April 14, 2011, 01:40:45 pm
relentless swell again this week... bit stormy... few coves providing offshore winds, Fistral was big yesterday, with only a few out, a few long rides linking sections and perfect long bord maarterial... massive crumbling walls outside, fadeing into long rippable walls and barrelling inside sections!
cribbar posse working it all out this morning... looked crap, It has not really broke all winter!
All my boards are now either snapped, creased, dinged or in need of attention. might start climbing again?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 15, 2011, 09:18:01 am
http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Live.html (http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Live.html)

Its on again and even better, the pros have sussed the wave out now so getting better barrels.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on April 15, 2011, 09:33:46 am
http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Live.html (http://www.oneill.com/cwc/Live.html)

Its on again and even better, the pros have sussed the wave out now so getting better barrels.

I never usually watch comps but this is ruining my chance of getting any work done this week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 15, 2011, 09:38:23 am
Ditto.....  :slap:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 15, 2011, 10:48:35 am
watching it from school, last day of term so the kids are doing fuck all anyways   :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 15, 2011, 11:18:06 am
You couldnt get a better education than watching this.

They could add up the scores for maths practice, learn about tides and the displacement of water for science, location for geography.

Engish is a bit fucked with the commentry but you can have it all.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 16, 2011, 08:03:07 pm
for those who have missed it so far:

Micah's 10 & Other Stories... CWC Day 1. (http://vimeo.com/22370049)

Moving Over The Face Of The Water... CWC Day 2 (http://vimeo.com/22459964)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 16, 2011, 08:57:40 pm
Just goes to show how good surf we get in the uk.

All we need is the ability to drop everything and go on a chart and i guess you really wouldnt have to travel abroad.

Unfortunatley wives, kids and jobs dont allow that flexibility for me. So i will have to continue to go to on lots of holidays.

Van packed, boards ready, leaving house at 4am for airport and hopefully pulling into my first warm water tube in portugal by tomorrow evening.

Lifes a bitch.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on April 16, 2011, 09:04:04 pm
Those waves are amazing, cant wait to get back in the water.

No need to rub it in gme, very jealous.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 19, 2011, 05:01:07 pm
Got back from a week in the south of portugal... :) cracking area. I was pleasantly surprised- there is real juice down there
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on April 19, 2011, 09:34:54 pm
Quality short video of G-Land and Padang, especially when he loses it in the barrel:


Tales from the Tube (http://vimeo.com/22468968)

Take your spring suit...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 19, 2011, 09:43:40 pm
Good tube riding skills.... it must've taken him ages to put that together. Nice one.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 19, 2011, 10:13:32 pm
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm left barrels.........  :popcorn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on April 20, 2011, 08:24:01 am
Quality short video of G-Land and Padang, especially when he loses it in the barrel:


Tales from the Tube (http://vimeo.com/22468968)

Take your spring suit...

inspiring

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on April 20, 2011, 09:30:35 pm
Couldn't find this posted before, you just got to see this, it's fucking insane:


Tip 2 Tip - Seven Ghosts: It Is True (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPWu-u_kGUc&feature=relmfu#ws)


Tip 2 Tip - Seven Ghosts: The "Bono" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJ3Fe6zV-U4#ws)

   :jaw:   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Iesu on April 21, 2011, 03:27:58 pm
Anyone tried the Patagucci ones yet? Spiel sounds impressive...

I finally snapped and picked up an R4 in Abersoch in November. It's kept me toasty all winter so no complaints. it's quite heavy in the water and not *that* flexible; but then again it's the first time i've had a winter suit and surfed all winter so I have no baseline for comparison.

v. v. warm. Some days i've taken the hood down to chat to other people in the water or just to give my head some fresh air, only to feel like nearly passing out on the next duck dive due to the cold.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on April 21, 2011, 11:15:30 pm
We're hoping to get down to watch the RipCurl Pro at Bells Beach tomorrow and/or Sunday. The weather's gorgeous (fine, sunny and 22-24 degrees) and the swell is looking good (3 metres + from the SW) and a certain Mr Slater is apparently in cracking form. A nice easy half-hour drive for us now they've finished the bypass around Geelong (it used to take up to an hour longer going through town.) We'll avoid the parking hell by going to a spot a bit further down and walking in along the coastal path - it's a beautiful area.

http://www.live.ripcurl.com/index.php?bells2011 (http://www.live.ripcurl.com/index.php?bells2011)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2011, 08:30:55 am
It is indeed a beautiful area, but was sadly flat as a flounder's cock when I was there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 22, 2011, 05:01:18 pm
Board suggestions for Runswick Bay outer reef please.

It's a long paddle so thinking of something larger but still with holding power in bigger waves.

My mate swears by his 7'0'' magic carpet with thruster fin set up.

And do you reckon I could get away with using the same board on slacker waves, e.g. Saunton, because of the extra volume and flatter rocker?

Cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 22, 2011, 06:14:32 pm
If you're out there on your own, it might be worth wearing two leashes to be on the safe side as its a fairly long swim back to shore.

Boardwise...  :shrug: I ride a 6'10 with a two plus one on ze larger dayz



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 22, 2011, 06:55:30 pm
I'd be with my mate (s) from Whitby. I think his magic carpet is 6'11'' actually.

Got 6'6'' rounded pin thruster which is perfect for the middle reef, just not sure about paddling to the outer on it.

2+1 - widowmaker style? I like the sound of that.

Cheers

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 23, 2011, 09:35:26 pm
talking of portugal, anyone been to sargres?
Turns out my mate forgot to tell me he has a rich aunty with a few villas and has a free villa in sargres for the 6 weeks holidays, YYFY
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on April 25, 2011, 09:20:21 am
 ;D get yourself down there!The missus and I drove over to portugal from spain on a road trip a few weeks back.South west portugal is lovely- The waves where great, good beachies, the lot really. Fairly busy but quietened down when the swell picked up....+ not a bad place to be if theres no swell! If you get the right swell/wind combo Arrifana looks great.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on April 27, 2011, 01:24:26 pm
Board suggestions for [in Stormrider but I'd call it sensitive and this forum shows high on Google so I'd consider editing] reef please.

You name it and I've seen it bloody out there. Every type of short, long and retroish board you'd care to name, sup, and carbon fibre canoe (guy knows what he'd doing.) Less irrasicibly, shortboards go well off the peak but paddling is a bastard, especially given the rip (which changes direction round the peak, you need to spot your markers.) Not remotely a heavy wave but I've seen barrels had. Bigger boards make for looooonger rides through the soft middle to the fun inside.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on May 03, 2011, 08:23:04 am
Theres a big swell been hitting Sydneys beaches over the last 24 hours

Pics from the local rag here (http://www.smh.com.au/photogallery/environment/weather/raging-surf-in-sydney-20110503-1e65e.html?selectedImage=0)

Unfortunately I only just found out so no pics of my own  :furious: :wall:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 03, 2011, 08:52:09 am
I would be more concerned about getting some waves in than taking pics of them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 03, 2011, 09:59:26 am
Theres a big swell been hitting Sydneys beaches over the last 24 hours

Pics from the local rag here (http://www.smh.com.au/photogallery/environment/weather/raging-surf-in-sydney-20110503-1e65e.html?selectedImage=0)

Unfortunately I only just found out so no pics of my own  :furious: :wall:

Couple of the best.
(http://images.smh.com.au/2011/05/03/2340765/manly2-600x400.jpg)

(http://images.smh.com.au/2011/05/03/2340763/manlyq1-600x400.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 05, 2011, 01:24:55 pm
Had one good day on sunday when the swell was decent and sheltered from the wind for a brief window, my mate took a photo of it:

(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2058/240/8/663931225/n663931225_1805403_6641.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2011, 01:55:38 pm
Hoping for some gaps in the wind over the weekend, some southerlies forecast, Stonehaven might be a winner.

gme, how was portugal?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 05, 2011, 02:40:59 pm
Portugal was good. Good surf, good food, good family trip, shame about the weather. The first week we had four days of heavy rain all whilst watching BBC reports on the amazing weather at home. second week was good though.

For consistency of swell it was the best Euro trip i have ever had. Surfed every day bar one and missed that only because i was shafted and it was small.

Got a range of swell from shoulder high and clean with three of us out, head and a half and wild with not many more out, to chest high close outs with 200 out. Peniche is a good spot because of the options it has with winds but it can be busy.

If you get up early you get it uncrowded for an hour or so. Also they would all prefere to surf fat shoulder high clean waves with 100 others than surf head and a half bumpy stuff, not messy but that little bit onshore. I preferred the latter so got loads of waves.

Two points of note
1. Supertubes is a no go area, you will not get a wave from the locals so don't even bother.
2. Lagide does not deserve to be called a reef, its the fattest piece of shite i have ever surfed. The only reefy thing about it is the god damn urchins that i still have stuck in my foot.


Feel really fit after 17 sessions in two weeks, but i am sure it will have worn off before we get any waves on the east coast.

Best bit of the trip was seeing my boys really getting into surfing, the oldest, age 10, was properly trimming along waist high clean waves and got pretty consistant at getting to his feet and turning, the youngest (7) was getting to his feet as well but not managing the turning bit yet. The main thing was they loved it, and now want to watch surf DVDs, get barrelled and do airs. i guess they will be kicking my arse in a few years time. Both surf for the dark side though so going to have to get good at backside barrel's where we live.

Mrs GME not that happy though as using the Ellis family democratic voting system as to where we go on holiday is starting to stack up against her trip to Rome. (she always wanted a girl). But i guess Bali might not be that bad for her.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2011, 02:54:57 pm
Nice one. Groms kicking dad's ass before he knows it. Out of  curiosity how old did you start them? We went to Achmelvich beach when we were away last week, and i think our wee one is immune to the cold. I had him in paddling and my feet were going numb, but he was quite happy, and he kicked and howled when I got him out because the numb pain in my feet was getting too much.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 06, 2011, 10:06:41 am
Hi Guys

I'm probably heading to Florida for a conference in June. I'd like to get a weeks surfing in but Florida looks rubbish, thinking of bailing to Mexico or Nicaragua (or somewhere else in central america) but will only have a week, anyone got any thoughts/recommendations on somewhere thats easily accessible, fairly cheap and likely to be quiet? I hate the surf camp thing but thinking it may be the best option for such a short trip.

Really I'm trying to work out if I should save my money for a trip later in the year or make the most of this opportunity!

Cheers

Chris
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2011, 10:46:14 am
I know FD has had a couple of good trips to Barbados, but not sure how seasonal it is. Must be loads of cheap flights from Miami.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 06, 2011, 10:52:29 am
Cheers Chris

Think Barbados may be a bit hit and miss at that time of year and possibly quite expensive when there. Flights from Florida to Mexico and central America do seem quite cheap.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2011, 11:09:04 am
No worries. Afreaid my knowledge for that part of the world is nonexistent, other than what you find on here, google or MSW.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 06, 2011, 11:58:53 am
I've never been either, but heard lots of good things about Costa Rica. Or Mexico/ Baja?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 06, 2011, 04:41:14 pm
test ride Siam Park (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EOj8MKwIQXY&feature=feedrec_grec_index#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 06, 2011, 05:12:49 pm
Hi Guys

I'm probably heading to Florida for a conference in June. I'd like to get a weeks surfing in but Florida looks rubbish, thinking of bailing to Mexico or Nicaragua (or somewhere else in central america) but will only have a week, anyone got any thoughts/recommendations on somewhere thats easily accessible, fairly cheap and likely to be quiet? I hate the surf camp thing but thinking it may be the best option for such a short trip.

Really I'm trying to work out if I should save my money for a trip later in the year or make the most of this opportunity!



Costa Rica. Santa teresa/Malpais catch a bus from san jose.... or playa hermosa/jaco if you dont want to travel t far from sanjose great selection of waves... boardies chill atmosphere i hear it =s getting busier but there is a long stretch of beach to find your own peak.. If you get bored 4wd it up the coast- good fun with river crossings- great waves the whole way up the coast.
or package trip to witches rock pretty fun place to surf- you can do it on your own and camp in the national park which is rewarding.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 06, 2011, 07:43:11 pm
Thanks Johnny Brown and curly ben.

I had heard that CR was more expensive and getting pretty busy but will look into it. Also looking at El Salvador as it looks as though there are some good waves in under an hour from the airport.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on May 07, 2011, 09:55:29 am
bocas del torro as well
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on May 09, 2011, 07:40:52 am
So I may have missed the big swell earlier in the week but saturday morning was still ridable and super clean (if a little busy).

As usual, full set here  (http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/2011/05/layne-beachley-classic/)

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/dee-why-5.jpg)

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/dee-why-8.jpg)

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/dee-why-9.jpg)

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/dee-why-11.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 09, 2011, 10:55:25 am
Nice pics Nick. But please tell me you got in the water too?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 09, 2011, 02:36:37 pm
I'm pleased if I ride a wave for 20 ft. And on a small fish too!

http://www.severnsolutions.co.uk/twblog/archive/2011/05/08/surfing-pororoca-for-20km (http://www.severnsolutions.co.uk/twblog/archive/2011/05/08/surfing-pororoca-for-20km)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tlr on May 10, 2011, 10:39:27 pm
Any one want a bunch of surf VIDEOS for free (well, cost of postage) or pick up in Sheffield?

No video machine anymore so no use to me.

Endless Summer is well worth a watch if you haven't seen it.

Free Board bag too for 8ft mini-mal.

(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee345/TLR99/IMG_1062a.jpg)

(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee345/TLR99/IMG_1064a.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on May 10, 2011, 11:04:32 pm
is that a persian rug you keep your road bike on???
 :-[
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 11, 2011, 01:38:20 pm
the endless summer, brilliant
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 12, 2011, 12:19:51 am
More footage from the massive swell at Cloudbreak last year.

The control and sack on display at 02:32 and Laurie Towners attempt to paddle in to a monster is more impressive than the towed in caverns.   :strongbench:

http://player.vimeo.com/video/23232389 (http://player.vimeo.com/video/23232389)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 12, 2011, 03:37:54 pm
A while ago I ordered a set of fins, which did not arrive so I ordered some different ones and stupidly forgot to cancel my order.  The other fins arrived a month later but at which point were no good so I sent them back.  I didn't bother with recorded, just first class - which i got a short code for (that doesnt work on the post office tracking website). 

I paid for the fins in FEB and sent them back in march.  The shop in question is the secret spot in scarb.  Now im not giving them a bad name, just a bit of a piss take having to wait this long and be 50 out of pocket to sort out a problem that shouldn't have happened in the first place. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 13, 2011, 08:52:24 pm
Amazing:

Fiji Edit (http://vimeo.com/23232389)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 16, 2011, 11:53:19 pm
Surfshoot Telos (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L_-153T_Ho&feature=channel_video_title#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on May 19, 2011, 11:42:52 am
Shipsterns has been scarier than usual this week apparently. Saw some really frightening footage on the news here earlier this evening and there's some footage uploaded onto Surfline:

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/biggest-shipsterns-ever_55884 (http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/biggest-shipsterns-ever_55884)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2011, 11:59:05 am
Perfection

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/fullWidth/221132.jpg)

All you need is a mirror
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Iesu on May 19, 2011, 12:54:48 pm
Russ Winter having a slice of some hollow Scotland (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BujsVldnVHo&feature=player_embedded#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on May 19, 2011, 01:04:26 pm
Shipsterns has been scarier than usual this week apparently. Saw some really frightening footage on the news here earlier this evening and there's some footage uploaded onto Surfline:

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/biggest-shipsterns-ever_55884 (http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/biggest-shipsterns-ever_55884)

Why the hell would anyone want to bother puttting their neck on the line for this, its not even a nice wave. That last one is horrific, must have been close to face planting something hard there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 19, 2011, 01:18:30 pm
Same reason people do hard scary scrappy routes?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on May 19, 2011, 01:33:16 pm
 :agree:
The young guy who is helping the firm I work for develop new rescue spineboards has surfed Shipstern and he described it as seriously scary and definitely not pretty but well worth the underwear changes once you get the hang of the place. He's been there twice and is intending to return this winter if he can afford it - the fee he's charging us should get him there apparently!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 19, 2011, 05:04:12 pm
looks scary as fook, east coast is so boring right now
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 24, 2011, 10:39:37 am
I'm going to be in France for the second two weeks in August, I know its the worst possible time but its unavoidable this year. Will be happy if i can get in the water.

Does anyone have any recommendations for surf spots/areas with a good chance of having a wave and ideally not too many people? I believe Hossegor probably has the best chance of a wave but will be packed. Would also like recommendations for a nice simple campsite close to the beach and surf, in a picturesque area. I dont ask much  :P

Finally, will i need a shorty wetsuit or will boardies and a thermal rashie be fine?

Any help much appreciated  :)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on May 24, 2011, 11:23:59 am
I'm thinking about going in September, so am interested to see what response you get to this. I have anecdotally been told that Hossegor is a bit serious for me, but might be fine for you. I was thinking about Brittany, so the same campsite request for there as well please..

Also, why is august really bad? lack of waves?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on May 24, 2011, 11:33:17 am
Bugger all going down on the cryptics thread so time to branch out. Just about everyone whos posted on this thread will have spent some time in France but anyway heres what I recon

Quote
I'm going to be in France for the second two weeks in August, I know its the worst possible

A month earlier would be worse. You're unlikely to have good surf every day, but you can hope for some decent swell at the end of Aug, especially if theres a hurricane swinging out from the Carribean. Whatever, you'll get surf.

Editing to add - also the dreaded rentree is near the end of Aug, it suddenly goes quiet when all the Frenchies bugger off back to work...

Quote
Does anyone have any recommendations for surf spots/areas with a good chance of having a wave and ideally not too many people? I believe Hossegor probably has the best chance of a wave but will be packed.

The Atlantic coast gets a wave from Brittany down, only missing sheltered bits of S Brittany, through the Vendee and south through Les Landes to Hossegor and beyond to Spain.  The Landes are basically one beach 100s of km long and you can surf anywhere a track goes through the pines. With a stroll you can generally find a quiet wave. Not great when the wind goes westerly mind. The waves can have power, and you get the usual rips and basins (google). I was always a bit nervous when the kids were younger. Anyway the much, and justly, for secret spot policy,  maligned wannasurf.com has the info.

I generally head for Brittany - more reliable than most surfers seem to realise as gets swell from morew directions than the SW,  quieter too. add in reefs and wind options and that's my vote. Ive stayed in the Vendee a few times in Aug (more reliable sun, shorter drive with kids) but you get fewer surfable days than down south or in Brittany.

Quote
Would also like recommendations for a nice simple campsite close to the beach and surf, in a picturesque area.

Depends what youre after, how feral youre feeling etc etc. There are good family recommendations up thread.  Lots of surfers stay at the Vieux Boucau campsite (SW, I dont particularly rate it, but hey).

Quote
Finally, will i need a shorty wetsuit or will boardies and a thermal rashie be fine?

You need a shorty at least. Boardies are fine for a session, middle of the day. In Brittany I wear a full suit. But I am nesh.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 24, 2011, 11:45:53 am
Thanks for the reply John

Had thought about Brittany but wasn't sure if it was as reliable as the SW. Will definitely look into this, had forgotten it had been discussed up thread. Shorter drive time appeals too. The girlfriend is coming so need a a campsite with toilets and showers but no more.

Good to hear there is likely to be some kind of wave!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on May 24, 2011, 11:56:23 am
Seasonal averages:

Hossegor:
http://magicseaweed.com/spot-seasonal-overview.php?spotId=61 (http://magicseaweed.com/spot-seasonal-overview.php?spotId=61)


Brittany:
http://magicseaweed.com/spot-seasonal-overview.php?spotId=72 (http://magicseaweed.com/spot-seasonal-overview.php?spotId=72)


Christ its pumping today.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on May 24, 2011, 12:54:28 pm
pont de la torche for me in august....

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 24, 2011, 03:02:21 pm
Surf trip = Hossegor and surrounding area
Family trip = Brittany. Sea better for the kids.

If i had to go on a surf trip in Europe in August/ sept Hossegor area would be the only choice. Even when its small the waves pack a punch and it gets as much if not more swell than anywhere.
Can be crowded but just get up really early (first light) and it will be quiet. Nothing like walking back up the beach as the crowds descend and the wind goes onshore with a smug smile on your face. Get pissed on cheap wine all afternoon as the evening glass off rarely arrives then fall asleep at 9pm so you can get up at 4.30am and do it again.

The merits of both spots have been discussed in this forum before a good few pages back.

Campsite tip is Cap d la Homy.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on May 24, 2011, 03:27:16 pm
Cheers Gav, found your campsite tip which looks good. Looks as though you cant book for after the 30th June. Is it likely that we can turn up on sites throughout France without booking?

Surfing followed by  :pissed: sounds ideal
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 24, 2011, 03:40:54 pm
I'd second the cap d l'homy campsite recommendation. Not the best wave on the coast but relatively quiet beach and municipal campsite.  I'd give them a bell/email about booking after June as we've definitely stayed there in August/September before.

I would definitely book somewhere if you're going in August, the whole of France heads west to the coast then and campsites will be heaving
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on May 24, 2011, 09:29:26 pm
 :agree:

contacting campsites direct wherever in France has always come up good for me over the years.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 25, 2011, 08:55:59 am
How about this from a kid who should be still at school. Best barrel i have seen in a while.

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/sixty-seconds/cristobal-de-cols-wave-of-his-life_55757 (http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/sixty-seconds/cristobal-de-cols-wave-of-his-life_55757)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on May 27, 2011, 06:07:18 pm
Off to Pabbay climbing and wondered about taking the board,  anyone know the score with regard to surf there at all? Looks like a nice beach near where you camp.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 27, 2011, 06:10:16 pm
There is definitely good surfing on Barra, I expect the beach on Pabbay will be too sheltered (faces SE?) unless a massive swell wraps round.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2011, 10:28:45 pm
^ what he said. Barra's great by all accounts.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 28, 2011, 06:01:29 pm
Finally some east coast swell.  Yesterday had a really sweet morning and today my first time down hartlepool surfing.
5 mile beach with breaks going off all over the shop, 3 people in all day, ever surfed it gme?
Im now hoodless and gloveless
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 31, 2011, 10:06:57 pm
Leave A Message (http://vimeo.com/24210425)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on June 06, 2011, 07:44:46 am
A good swell in Sydney over the weekend - some of the larger beaches were struggling but the smaller and more sheltered spots seemed to be fairing much better
Full Set (http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/2011/06/big-saturday/)

Sunrise at Curly
(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/junesurf-2.jpg)

Queenscliffe Bommie
(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/junesurf-6.jpg)


Comp at Freshwater
(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/junesurf-10.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 16, 2011, 03:33:32 pm
looks like a sneaky ground swell in for the east coast, caught a few yesterday that were alright but super clean.

(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253466_10150215218284819_514039818_6932866_4511639_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 17, 2011, 01:32:34 am
Pumping in Newcastle. unfortunately the one in NSW rather than the UK.

Fortunately i am here. Best surf i have had all year, proper solid 6 foot giving well overhead peaks up and down Bar beach.

Its great to have some juice, hard paddle out but worth it when you get there. Felt well under gunned on my 6`3" but only brought one board out with me as only here for a few days with work.

Looks like hanging around all weekend as well.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 17, 2011, 05:45:32 am
Link to pics from this morning.

http://www.swellnet.com.au/reports/newcastle/images (http://www.swellnet.com.au/reports/newcastle/images)

Winds got up now howling offshores, bit to strong so going to be difficult to paddle into them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 17, 2011, 02:58:18 pm
looks fun, what temps the water down there at the moment?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 17, 2011, 03:56:29 pm
rockin'   looks beefy
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 17, 2011, 06:02:47 pm
Hope you got some Gav.  Spoke to sis who said there'd been floods and lots of rain so hope the water was clean.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 17, 2011, 09:04:01 pm
Water appears clean and still very warm. Warmer than Portugal.
The aussies complain about the weather more than we do.
Has been wet and there have been floods but not cold in the slightest.
Surf is good again this morning but not like the quality of yesterday. Best surf I have had since last year yesterday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on June 17, 2011, 09:35:19 pm
sounds shit.


do it....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 18, 2011, 06:08:58 am
It's got big again. New southerly swell competing with the dying east swell from yesterday. 
Still great waves but punishing. Spent half hour paddling to get out , nearly gave up but two others next to me which brought a bit of competition into it. Eventually got out back to six to eight foot barrels. 
Sat scared shitless for fifteen mins before I found myself in the spot with ten pairs of eyes staring at me testing my balls. I went and got a screamer. Two good turns and pull into a nice pit. As usual with my barrel riding it all went wrong from there and I got flogged. Still nice to get a few seconds of glory. 
Another ten mins of hard paddling gets me out back again sat on my board for a breather when the biggest set of the day arrives. All caught inside. 
Duck dive goes all wrong and I feel the delightful feeling of my board pulling at my leg until ping. Fir the First time in my life I snap a leash 400 meters out in big surf. 
Long swim, crawl, drowning follows until I reach the beach fucked. Boards been rescued by someone on the beach so I head home to lick my wounds. 
One and a half hours of hell for fifteen seconds of glory. 
God I love surfing. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 18, 2011, 11:07:05 am
anyone else watching the quicksilver pro portugal?

http://quiksilverlive.com/proportugal2011/live.en.html (http://quiksilverlive.com/proportugal2011/live.en.html)

i love how rosie hodge says HAI tide
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on June 19, 2011, 08:35:37 pm
Solid 3ft sheet glass at Saltburn today on my new Fluid Juice 7ft single fin magic carpet. Stoked.

Props to all who got in. East is beast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 19, 2011, 08:50:25 pm
East may be Beast but West was Best today.. ok maybe not Best but wasn't bad  ;)

looking good for next weekend down here
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 20, 2011, 09:48:30 am
east was a let down at 4am yesterday, went to bed and got up for some clean waves in the eve.  Local pier wall was rocking.  love the northern swell that bounces off it.  Car broke today so nee action till tomorrow for me - need to buy a van asap
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 20, 2011, 04:39:11 pm
It's got big again. New southerly swell competing with the dying east swell from yesterday.
Still great waves but punishing. Spent half hour paddling to get out , nearly gave up but two others next to me which brought a bit of competition into it. Eventually got out back to six to eight foot barrels.
Sat scared shitless for fifteen mins before I found myself in the spot with ten pairs of eyes staring at me testing my balls. I went and got a screamer. Two good turns and pull into a nice pit. As usual with my barrel riding it all went wrong from there and I got flogged. Still nice to get a few seconds of glory.
Another ten mins of hard paddling gets me out back again sat on my board for a breather when the biggest set of the day arrives. All caught inside.
Duck dive goes all wrong and I feel the delightful feeling of my board pulling at my leg until ping. Fir the First time in my life I snap a leash 400 meters out in big surf.
Long swim, crawl, drowning follows until I reach the beach fucked. Boards been rescued by someone on the beach so I head home to lick my wounds.
One and a half hours of hell for fifteen seconds of glory.
God I love surfing.
 

Mate, that is pure poetry....  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 20, 2011, 06:27:18 pm
As well as wadding you Gav, I forgot to say I'm glad you didn't drown.  Half a mile out at sea in biggish surf with no board and mates is a _very_ lonely place to be.  I bet you did some soul searching on the way in?  ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 21, 2011, 11:08:32 pm
Proper jawb GME, the 15 seconds of glory, always worth the suffering :great:   Have been a similar situation in big surf minus board.  Would like to say I got to shore by body surfing a wave right to the beach but in reality I swam towards shore and got rumbled towards the beach by successive set waves, holding breath and trying to relax...  Lifeguards already had my board in the back of their 'ute' by the time I reached shore, said they were trying to look for me but couldn't see me, they looked a little annoyed to give up the free surfboard too. 
 Note to self: On big days - don't surf to exhaustion, always have some beans left just incase...  Brush up your swimming skills in bigger surf!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 21, 2011, 11:26:05 pm

 Note to self: On big days - don't surf to exhaustion, always have some beans left just incase...  Brush up your swimming skills in bigger surf!

Cant agree with that more, nothing worse than a 4 hour session and duck diving 8 waves nearly half a mile out thinking "fuck me, I couldnt actually paddle to shore if I had to"  bit lairy
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 23, 2011, 11:33:43 pm
got in tonight at a spot that breaks a few times a year and managed to land myself and a couple of mates in some short left barrels that walled out into a bay for 4 hours.  Love nights like this - seeing any of the swell chris?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 24, 2011, 07:48:20 am
Just got back to blighty but stuck in Sheffield until sat so missing the east coast swell. Despite surfing lots last week i still get pissed to hear my local spots are working. never mind.

The swim in after snapping my leash was OK for 380m, i basically got washed in by the white stuff, to say i body surfed in would be the worlds biggest fib.

The final 20 m were a lot different and took longer than the preceding 380. The water was draining off the beach so hard you just couldn't swim against it. I eventually sacrificed myself to a closeout and managed to claw my self up the sand.

All in all not to bad. Just really hard work.

The headhigh surfs of the following three days were just a breeze, couldn't have been any different.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2011, 08:47:38 am
Love nights like this - seeing any of the swell chris?

Were a few grovellers in Aberdeen when I drove past last night. Tides were really bad, went to the wall instead. Hopefully a bit better tonight, or hopefully Saturday morning, if it lasts until Sunday mgiht head up to Moray Coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on June 24, 2011, 02:36:31 pm
Looks set to be clean and sweet tonight.  Left reef break near mine will be spitting again i reckon - clean few foot will do nicely
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 28, 2011, 02:41:13 pm
Sunday was superb... really nice summer groundswell, offshore!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on June 29, 2011, 05:45:33 pm
 :o Nutter!

Stories from Team CLIF Bar: Zach Wormhoudt, Surfer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eMOxFoprSs#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on June 30, 2011, 01:42:03 pm
Tamed!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 05, 2011, 12:01:43 pm
Over head and offshore... all time!

http://youtu.be/WaFxaAcbr1c (http://youtu.be/WaFxaAcbr1c)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 09, 2011, 09:33:05 am
This is a private video on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/25366622)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on July 09, 2011, 12:04:15 pm
 :ohmy:   fucking epic!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on July 09, 2011, 03:48:40 pm
so beautiful to finally see more guns than jet skis on the peak!!!
inspiring.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 15, 2011, 01:26:47 pm
Jbay comp on to day but a bit average, biggest news was that slater chose not to come.

He was too busy out here

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/dispatch-tavarua-04_57491/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/dispatch-tavarua-04_57491/)

Proper waves without towing. amazing and so f**king scary.

More stuff from the last three days on surfline site.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 15, 2011, 01:55:44 pm
There's an amazing clip of Ryan whatisname doing the rounds on Facebook from Cloudbreak on Wednesday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 15, 2011, 02:04:04 pm
More Offshore overhead surf today! been a good summer!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 15, 2011, 05:59:44 pm
watched a bit of the Jbay this morn then the ladies event final too. 

Checked the webcam and chanced the pier, was good actually clean 3-4ft. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 15, 2011, 08:27:00 pm
i really do need to meet up with you, it was flat here, well waist high at best, maybe longboard size but only just. same at tynemouth. the pier must jack up the waves or something.

This last week looked promising but ended up shite, wed pm ok but thursday and today just took the kids in. they had a ball and therefore it was worth it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 15, 2011, 09:19:55 pm
Had to wait for the sets but it was worth it, only me and a couple of mates for a couple of hours till around 10 others jumped in.
Its always off a northern swell, was a little bit east but when it hits the pier it lifts it - one paddle and your up, it feels weird being sucked backwards into a take off but its a nice steep drop.  Everywhere else looked messy with the dodgy wind and shitty wind swell.
You might as well come through, looked like most of tynemouth came after high tide
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2011, 11:21:15 am
Had a fairly good session on Saturday night. Terrible weather all day, but went to beach about 7pm when wind dropped. Claggy low cloud and light drizzle, slightly messy windwaves, but actually a lot better than they looked from shore. Half a dozen folk in, but for some reason they were blatantly huddled together in completely the wrong spot (why do they do that?) away from a fun little peak which I scored half a dozen waves off before they cottoned on and started moving closer (like zombies) at which point the tide dropped off and it stopped working. They all got hacked off waiting and went in one by onebut I gave it another 20 mins for the tide to drop a bit and another peak started working and scored another half dozen before it dropped off and it was getting too dark.

Great atmospheric session; low cloud and rain, foghorn blaring out from lighthouse, seal in the water and a pod of dolphins passing just as light faded.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 18, 2011, 12:29:06 pm
Kids surf again for me,my 10 year old has now progressed from a 7`4" bic to a 5` 9" al merrick flyer. I bet him 5 and the board (picked it up for 90) that he couldnt paddle into a wave on it and stand up, three goes laetr i was 5 down and less a board.

Due to the kids surfing i have done what i always claimed i never would and bought a longboard, it means i can surf with them when its small rather than just swimming around with them. have not seen it yet and all i know is is 180 and 9 foot long.

If its shit i can always cut it in two and makee a couple of kids boards.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2011, 12:36:49 pm
bet you a fiver (and the board?) you enjoy riding it a lot more than expect you will. Just remember to walk up and down the board to trim.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 18, 2011, 12:59:26 pm
Kids surf again for me,my 10 year old has now progressed from a 7`4" bic to a 5` 9" al merrick flyer. I bet him 5 and the board (picked it up for 90) that he couldnt paddle into a wave on it and stand up, three goes laetr i was 5 down and less a board.

Due to the kids surfing i have done what i always claimed i never would and bought a longboard, it means i can surf with them when its small rather than just swimming around with them. have not seen it yet and all i know is is 180 and 9 foot long.

If its shit i can always cut it in two and makee a couple of kids boards.

 :2thumbsup:

Just don't try and turn it like a short board  :)

Your session sounds Ace Chris.  I have along weekend in Wales coming up this weekend so I'll hopefully get some.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 18, 2011, 01:06:17 pm
Its all about headstands isnt it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on July 18, 2011, 03:00:45 pm
can't wait till I can take the boy surfing (assuming he'll want to..)

Found this pic online of me from a session back in January.  First reasonably decent shot of me surfing ever I think..
http://www.surfphots.co.uk/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=70&pos=24 (http://www.surfphots.co.uk/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=70&pos=24)

it was baltic though
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2011, 03:24:25 pm
can't wait till I can take the boy surfing (assuming he'll want to..)

It will happen before you know it!

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/184508.jpg)

Not mine btw; our wee man loves being in the sea, but is not quite ready for a waves (yet!)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on July 18, 2011, 03:31:52 pm
Chris - I want to surf. Sort me out.

How much for a second hand board that I can learn on, but not be too limited by when I quickly develop a mastery of surfing  ;)

What sort of length/style make etc. should I be looking for?

I've got some old wetsuits kicking about so shouldn't need that straight away. Certainly winter should be ok in my 9mm  :o

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2011, 03:45:52 pm
Not an easy question!

Standard answer is a mini mal of around the 7 ft 6" - 7ft 10" range unless you want to put a lot of watertime in on something smaller initally accepting you will struggle at first, but progress faster later on. Second Hand anything from 80-100 for something pretty knackered that will last you a few mothns before you decide on something shiny and new to 200-250 for something decent that will last you right through from starting up to being a competent intermediate.

Alternatively you could head across to Coast to Coast at Dunbar and hire one of their foamies or larger minimals / mals a couple of times to start off with and see if you really enjoy it before parting with any cash. Not best time of year to learn though; often flat ot feeble waves. Might be better to give it a month.

Or just give me a shout next time you are up here for a few days and we can see if there are any decent waves about.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 18, 2011, 05:56:17 pm
I have four Longboards for sale!
9.1
9.2
9.6 pricey! Not a good beginner board!
10.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2011, 07:20:39 pm
Surfing Baby; 2 year old old Given Goodwin surfs Waikiki (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPk8-3FeCgk#)

Or even sooner if mum is an expert longboarder
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2011, 07:53:25 pm
There's an amazing clip of Ryan whatisname doing the rounds on Facebook from Cloudbreak on Wednesday.

Some more here

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/tavarua-dreaming-part-one_57636 (http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/tavarua-dreaming-part-one_57636)

check out the ballsy attempt at a top turn at 52 secs. Some narrow escapes and some punishings too! Worth waiting for the ad to finish.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 18, 2011, 10:43:31 pm
Amazing....


 Love the guy with the paddle  :wank:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 19, 2011, 08:50:51 am
:wank: indeed. Hope the paddle smacked him around the head and made him realise what a bad idea it is.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 19, 2011, 10:57:15 am
Both my kids were in the sea and on bodyboards before they were 18 months, they love it. The youngest one couldn't even walk when he went in clinging onto my back, it was in Portugal mind and a lot warmer than the north sea.

The only thing that stops them getting in all the time is the temps of the north sea, even with wetsuits on they get cold after 1/2 hour on all but the hottest days. Kids wetsuits don't fit very well and leave gaps on the neck and ankles so they just flush through.

Get your little one in the water this summer Chris on your longboard, just put one of those buoyancy swimming vests on.

Great fun and it freaks out all the mothers who think your being irresponsible.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Davo on July 19, 2011, 01:43:25 pm
Nice vid but I reckon I would give a bit of respect to the sea sweeper there. That board would weigh a ton and to have the balls to get into a wave like that deserves a lot of respect.

Not that I would ever go out on a wave like that but if I did then I would prefer to be doing it without a huge board and paddle ready to kill me!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 19, 2011, 02:46:24 pm
Ballsy or silly? Full marks for giving it a go, but clearly not the right tool for the job.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Davo on July 19, 2011, 02:57:38 pm
Guy looks pretty competent out there! Maybe he is good enough to make a decision about ballsy or silly? Also he is pretty close to making it out of that huge grinding beast!!

Anyway at the level I surf it is worthless arguing. Just impressive to watch those guys charging, it is virtually a different sport to what I do...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 20, 2011, 03:51:27 pm
Anyone seen the SUP comps in Puerto Escondido,
http://youtu.be/UyjE0iJPCuo (http://youtu.be/UyjE0iJPCuo)
There is a movement really pushing the limits of SUP, and getting the results! I think its fuckin radical!
http://youtu.be/g5M7Ur-Sg7Y (http://youtu.be/g5M7Ur-Sg7Y)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 20, 2011, 03:53:44 pm
BOOM!
http://youtu.be/gtzzXHPlby0 (http://youtu.be/gtzzXHPlby0)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2011, 05:14:03 pm
Just wish they all pushed the limits on them, miles from crowded linups where the majority of them are a liability.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 20, 2011, 07:39:46 pm
I just dont get it. Why ride something that makes it more difficult. I get the idea of different board for a different wave and can see why it makes a difference to ride a longboard on certain waves as they are just not fun on a short board but SUPs are just stupid, what purpose do they serve. If you want to paddle surely a canoe would be more practical, if you want to surf then a board makes sense.

Its like climbing one handed, a bit of fun with mates but not something that's taken seriously.

Someone towed chopes on a wakeboard which is probably even more impressive but again pointless. I think the people doing this sort of stuff are more commercially led than the Tour surfers despite portraying a soul surfer image.

I was always told to use the right tool for the job.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 20, 2011, 07:54:05 pm
Quote
If you want to paddle surely a canoe would be more practical

That's very close to what Si said to me after my first session surfing Hell's mouth. Bastard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on July 21, 2011, 06:33:07 pm
Biggest swell since winter hits NE the weekend we break up for 6 weeks. And it's light offshore on MONDAY!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 21, 2011, 07:31:04 pm
Shhhh don't curse it.

(already organising day off; banff point here we come!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: curly ben on July 21, 2011, 07:39:14 pm
I have a 6 2 Merrick Machado that needs selling. Surfed twice in Indo... pretty much pristine. no dings no pressure marks- gorilla pad. Hx Bought in Aus to beef up my quiver for an indo trip and didnt surf it as i had a magic board all trip! Im back in Uk for a while so wont really get surfed over here... and i need some cash to fund my way through med school. Any takers- great board for a good waves/travel board. can forward on pics as i seem unable to ever post up pics here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 21, 2011, 08:54:04 pm
If anyone fancies a session on the east coast next week give me a shout, GME a perfect left reef (i sent you a PM with some vids of it) will be going mental this week. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on July 22, 2011, 09:48:10 am
so then wisened surf types, theres this mega swell around this weekend, but the wind also looks pretty epic. Is Scarborough south bay the only place worth a look in for those of us with only the weekend to work with?

I was thinking of going early on sunday morning, but that also seems to be the time of the peak of the biggest swell. My thought process was that going at this point would give me the best chance of lighter winds? So, am I talking nonsense and am about drown, or should I continue with my Sunday morning raid plans?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2011, 10:03:51 am
I'm no East Coast expert but Scarb S seems like the obvious first port of call but if it looks to be struggling to handle wind / size, I think Filey Bay gets a bit more shelter and might be worth a look. I've never been to either in any great swell though.

If you are going by MSW, waves are often smaller and wind lighter than forecast, but look to be dropping through the day.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: kilgore1080 on July 22, 2011, 10:11:33 am
now I know sweet feck all about surfing but a guy I work with is a big enthusiast, I gather he's off to his local spot at Cayton(?) Bay on the east coast this sunday morning, 8ft swell apparently.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 22, 2011, 10:18:03 am
I'm also thinking of heading up on Sunday so interested to hear any other suggestions. Anybody else think Filey might be a good bet?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on July 22, 2011, 10:27:25 am
Those nice people at secret spot (http://www.secretspot.co.uk/SurfReports.aspx) wrote this about Sunday :

Quote
Well the charts are showing some massive surf  today in excess of 8ft (double overhead) with a 10 second period this is looking to be the most powerful swell we've seen in the last year with first light seeing the swell max out. Sadly even if we have lighter winds early on (unlikely) the tiny tides will stop the point breaks that need big high and low's from working so once again it looks like South Bay will be the best option to hide from the size and winds. Although the most likely wind direction will be  straight Northerly following the swell, we might get lucky and see some brief periods of NW which is cross offshore this might open up a few other spots, fingers crossed...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2011, 10:36:45 am
Whatever it is, it's going to be heaving if word is going around. I would have thought mega early would be best bet, and just hope for breaks in the wind.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 22, 2011, 11:37:14 am
Dobbin, Sth Bay is probably your best bet. It looks like it'll be windy but get in there anyway.  The bay is more sheltered and the wave/peaks get progressively smaller towards the town/harbour end of the beach.

Just remember to watch for a good 15-20 mins or so before suiting up and paddling straight out, count the sets & intervals and look for an easy way out and back in.  Have fun!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 22, 2011, 11:38:36 am
Yeah! All of you have a good one, KILL IT!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 22, 2011, 01:14:56 pm
your right regarding the crowds chris, it will be chocka where ever is working.  Off a northern wind, saltburn could be a good option too, though Im guessing it will be like a slalom course.  Got a bit of a horseshoe point near where I live that should be empty, wont be as good as scarbs/saltburn
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on July 22, 2011, 01:17:39 pm
S E Australia was hit by huge swells two weekends ago, up to 18 metres down around Southern Tasmania (Shipstern) on a couple of days and up to 8 metres at our most famous local breaks here in Victoria (Bell's Beach and Johanna) - with offshore winds as well!  I've got a supplier at work who's pretty useful on a board and he's nursing some nasty bruises and mourning the loss of his favourite board after picking the wrong wave to catch earlier on the day this footage was taken.

SURFERS take on HUGE WAVES at BELLS BEACH, VIC. July 9th 2011. MUSIC - 'How to Destroy Angels' (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW2gmGJ7eFI&feature=related#ws)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on July 22, 2011, 01:28:08 pm
I'll be the gay on tray by the pumphouse in cayton sunday   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2011, 01:31:51 pm
S E Australia was hit by huge swells two weekends ago, up to 18 metres down around Southern Tasmania (Shipstern) on a couple of days and up to 8 metres at our most famous local breaks here in Victoria (Bell's Beach and Johanna) - with offshore winds as well!  I've got a supplier at work who's pretty useful on a board and he's nursing some nasty bruises and mourning the loss of his favourite board after picking the wrong wave to catch earlier on the day this footage was taken.

"It's the hundred year storm"

"We'll get him when he comes back in"
"He's not coming back"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on July 22, 2011, 01:42:19 pm
S E Australia was hit by huge swells two weekends ago, up to 18 metres down around Southern Tasmania (Shipstern) on a couple of days and up to 8 metres at our most famous local breaks here in Victoria (Bell's Beach and Johanna) - with offshore winds as well!  I've got a supplier at work who's pretty useful on a board and he's nursing some nasty bruises and mourning the loss of his favourite board after picking the wrong wave to catch earlier on the day this footage was taken.

"It's the hundred year storm"

"We'll get him when he comes back in"
"He's not coming back"


100% Utah

young, dumb and full of come, you're a real blue flame special arnt you son?

its not a tragedy to die doing what you love

I really love this groundrush shit

I bet you lied to me about your parents

they are pulling out a fucking arsenal



I know that flm so well you can start it at any point... and I can tell you the next line :punk:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2011, 01:45:01 pm
You some quarterback punk or something?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 22, 2011, 02:41:35 pm
Swell has arrived. Starting to show lines between the chop and a ridable bump on a few of the reefs.

I am looking forward to it but not the crowds, however the wind is not great unless your in the know. Tides really not good either, if it had been last weekend it would have been epic but its one of the smallest tides of the year which always makes things a bit wierd and my favorite spots need a lower tide to get good.

I will be mostly hiding from people the best i can.

Glad i am not going to Yorkshire.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2011, 02:51:16 pm
Biggest swell since winter hits NE the weekend we break up for 6 weeks. And it's light offshore on MONDAY! WEDNESDAY
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on July 22, 2011, 06:26:20 pm
Yep, has changed, although as I'm off work for the next 6 weeks (did I mention that?)...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2011, 09:59:52 pm
......... you mught get in the water once or twice. Shame you don't get summer holidays in midwinter.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 22, 2011, 10:16:14 pm
sunderland beach today, shoulder high lefts, a lot of close outs. tomorrow dawnie
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 24, 2011, 01:28:44 pm
Got in today around half six, caught some decent sized clean waves that were over head high, only me and my mate out through sunderland.  I hate beach breaks when its biggish, plenty of paddling and a few excellent wipe outs in water that was a disgusting brown.
The shore was littered with debris from the storm, crab pots, huge seaweed strands attached to brick sized rocks.

When I got out I took a couple of photos, clean offshore 8-10ft on the sets, hard to tell the size from the photos but its around 8ft

(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/055.jpg?t=1311510257)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/042.jpg?t=1311510257)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 24, 2011, 02:09:23 pm
Nice one. Main beaches blown out here, sheltered spots either too sheltered or just a mess. Will hopefully improve tonight, tomorrow morning and tomorrow evening.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BB on July 25, 2011, 09:10:41 am
They were actually surfing some nice 2 footers inside Sydney Harbour on Friday. Ferry to work was a giggle I can tell you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on July 26, 2011, 05:18:17 am
After a week of huge swells that were completely unridable, the weather finally cleared last weekend and the wind gods smiled

Manly last saturday -

http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/article.aspx?articleId=9215#ooid=txdWFvMjqE6kbwgjwER0vOjRTIwzNdr7 (http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/article.aspx?articleId=9215#ooid=txdWFvMjqE6kbwgjwER0vOjRTIwzNdr7)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 26, 2011, 09:14:47 am
Well this weekend has to be one of the most over hyped swells ever and one that produced little. I am surprised that MSW didn't crash due to the no. of people logging onto it.

I have never seen as many vans up my way before, all dossing in the farmers fields, tents up everywhere and one prick from Cardiff even thought it was a good idea to drive through the field to park closer to the reef.
Sat and Sunday were pretty much blown out other than the sheltered spots but the swell wasn't good enough to get them working properly, they were surfable but far from good. I suspect south bay was rammed.
Monday was better before the wind got up, but by 4.30 am there were already 20 people in the water up here. Was a bit lumpy 4-5 ft but the neap tides stopped everything working properly, nice to get into some head and half waves with grunt but nothing like it was hyped to be. By 8am the wind got up and turn everything into mush.
Estimating the number of vans from cornwall and Devon (6), adding in the three from wales, one from Brighton, two from Leeds and five from newcastle i would guess well over 10000 miles worth of diesel was used for around an average of 10 good waves each just on the spot I surf. Round about 10 per wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 26, 2011, 09:18:37 am
Hopefully they won't bother again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on July 26, 2011, 09:23:20 am
Well this weekend has to be one of the most over hyped swells ever and one that produced little. I am surprised that MSW didn't crash due to the no. of people logging onto it.

I have never seen as many vans up my way before, all dossing in the farmers fields, tents up everywhere and one prick from Cardiff even thought it was a good idea to drive through the field to park closer to the reef.
Sat and Sunday were pretty much blown out other than the sheltered spots but the swell wasn't good enough to get them working properly, they were surfable but far from good. I suspect south bay was rammed.
Monday was better before the wind got up, but by 4.30 am there were already 20 people in the water up here. Was a bit lumpy 4-5 ft but the neap tides stopped everything working properly, nice to get into some head and half waves with grunt but nothing like it was hyped to be. By 8am the wind got up and turn everything into mush.
Estimating the number of vans from cornwall and Devon (6), adding in the three from wales, one from Brighton, two from Leeds and five from newcastle i would guess well over 10000 miles worth of diesel was used for around an average of 10 good waves each just on the spot I surf. Round about 10 per wave.

having remembered I had tickets to Iron Maiden & hence no time to get to the coast I'm happy.

I had a great time!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 26, 2011, 11:41:22 am
did they do fear of the dark?  My end was quiet, had some nice surf sessions, Friday was super clean but shoulder high and closing out all of the time.  Sat and sun were big, a bit messy but at low tide it was pretty good - only locals in.  Think most people either went north or south and we rarely get visitors.
Though photos haven't escaped the seaweed.  Here's one from Friday I think

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/228463.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 26, 2011, 12:52:08 pm
Glad to hear you all got some summertime juice in the NE..  Shame it wasn't what it was cracked up to be.  I guess the crowds and visitors are to be expected given that the summer hols just started and the chart was fairly obvious.  Small and clean is about all we can manage down here at the moment.

Quote
Estimating the number of vans from cornwall and Devon (6), adding in the three from wales, one from Brighton, two from Leeds and five from newcastle i would guess well over 10000 miles worth of diesel was used for around an average of 10 good waves each just on the spot I surf. Round about 10 per wave.

Does seem a looooooooooooong way to drive from here to annoy the locals but I guess some folk have time and money to burn.

Summer season has kicked in with a vengance in N Devon...  Estimating the number of vans from West Midlands/Yorkshire/everywhere bluddy else = twelvetybilliontee! 

I have joined the short wide lots of volume revolution... Mr Bunt has shaped me what is essentially a copy/hybrid of the Rusty Dwart/JS Blak Box.  5''8 Double wing round tail which can be ridden as a quad or thruster.  First impressions are that it paddles really well, goes very well in small waves and turns on a dime.. Lots of FUN!!  Yet to be tested in bigger stuff but the longboard is firmly back on the shelf for the time being.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 26, 2011, 01:11:46 pm
sounds nice, lots of volume in the nose?  how wide is it?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 26, 2011, 01:41:35 pm
Been on a CI dumpster diver 5` 9" x 19 3/4" x 2 1/2 since easter (other than yesterday) ridden it in everything from waist high onshore to head and half and clean.

Without doubt the best board i have ever owned. Its now my goto board for everything but the reefs where i tend to jump back on the rounded pins.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on July 26, 2011, 02:59:34 pm
same here, my main weapon is a 5'10 x 19 3/4, not much rocker but the squash tail meant the power through the turns was superb
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 26, 2011, 04:09:03 pm
sounds nice, lots of volume in the nose?  how wide is it?

5''8 x 20.5'' x 2''5/8  Nose is pretty wide loadsa volume through the centre of the board, low rocker, I am riding it as a quad at the moment and it rips :yes:

Still have the rounded pin flexfire for those super hollow Croyde days though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on July 26, 2011, 04:57:24 pm
http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DuP0h62oOSj0%26feature%3Dshare&h=NAQAguOSX (http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DuP0h62oOSj0%26feature%3Dshare&h=NAQAguOSX)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 26, 2011, 06:50:09 pm
If we'd have gone back to the pre 1999 old skool method of using synoptic charts for forecasting without the  internet we would have seen the last weekend's forecast as 50/50 at best. 

MSW has a lot to answer for with the stars system and wave height & period calculations, especially for the East Coast with a narrow fetch and swell window.  Other than a very rough indicator of 'waves/no-waves' or 'wind/no wind' my experience with MSW is pretty much total bollocks.  Completely ignore it I reckon....

Surfline is somewhat better given the resources at their disposal and the subsription model but it's not great for the UK.

I still don't think you can go far wrong with looking at a pressure chart and taking it from there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2011, 10:03:11 am
I think the MSW forecast is actually OK, trouble is most people don't even bother learning to use it properly; as soon as they get stars in the eyes they rush around frothing at the mouth. The number of stars is only linked to the period, nothing else, and if they are light blue it means the wind is going to screw things up a bit unless you find a sheltered spot.

Also a lot of people seem to struggle with swell direction; a lot of northerly swell actually misses Aberdeen, unless it is 6 feet or more, but can produce stellar waves from Dunbar southwards. A guy I know once said to me in the water in Aberdeen "Is this really a 3 star day?". I didn't bother replying.

Surf Science by Tony Butt is a great book to get hold and digest cover to cover to understand forecasting a bit better.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 27, 2011, 10:37:35 am
MSW is a great tool to get a bit of an overview of what is potentially happening in the week ahead but being computer generated it is just an overview. I use it to get an indication then dig deeper to get the facts. Even then i can be very wrong just as the weather forecast can be.

MSW site is really good if you get away from the summary pages and all the info you need is on there, people just need to learn how to use it.

The swell this weekend was a classic example where not enough consideration was given to the local winds and also the fact it was a neap tide massively effects the waves. MSW actually says this in there article on what the star system takes into account.

If people had actually taken off there rose tinted specs they would have seen that MSW actually got it pretty much spot on. They never gave anything more than three stars and even then they were not fully coloured in meaning that the quality will be effected by the local winds. If you actually read the description of the star system it describes 3 stars as a reasonably good day ie average, 2 stars as ok if your desperate and 1 star as just about surfable. I think the last weekend was 2 stars with Mon am being 3.

However as everyone is a bit wave starved at the minute ,they saw 6-8ft at 10 secs, cancelled work, the wife, the kids and the dogs vet appointment, text there mates, twittered there excitement,posted on a few chat rooms then jumped in there vans and joined the convoy to disappointment.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 27, 2011, 11:17:49 am
they saw 6-8ft at 10 secs, cancelled work, the wife, the kids and the dogs vet appointment, text there mates, twittered there excitement, posted on a few chat rooms then jumped in there vans and joined the convoy to disappointment.

 :lol: you should have that as your signature!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 27, 2011, 03:42:08 pm
You know when some photo's just give you a sharp intake of breath...  and your balls hurt cause they are trying to migrate through your pelvis
(http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=228615&photoOfTheDay)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2011, 03:51:17 pm
I think you mean this

(http://cdnimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/fullWidth/228615.jpg)

Ballsy!

As an aside, this looks quite cool

http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=3048 (http://magicseaweed.com/video/flvplayer.php?id=3048)

Hopefully better than the underwhelming Cold Rush.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 27, 2011, 04:08:38 pm
Eh jez i fucked that up again.

Yeah.. it does, Brims is mega, as obviously is Thurso, Brims is just foreboding. Assume thats a vid to come out soon?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2011, 04:14:43 pm
Yeah, they got a page on facebook. Hopefully it won't all be brims and TE. From the trailer it doesn't look like it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on July 27, 2011, 04:22:26 pm
Yeah i know what you mean, im not that down with many surf vids, its always been the big 2 in them in Scotland.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 01, 2011, 08:54:20 am
Great article on surfline about the connection between surfing and skating. In three parts with more to follow.

Part 1 - you can link the others from there.

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-surf-skate-connection-chapter-one_56105/ (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-surf-skate-connection-chapter-one_56105/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 05, 2011, 04:15:04 am
and here we go again....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 05, 2011, 08:23:56 am
"Wow look at all those stars!"
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 05, 2011, 02:07:32 pm
"Wow look at all those stars!"

Huh!?  Oh I get it now, got some juice coming East side next week have you?

The atlantic hurricane season is starting, here's hoping that one of those low pressure systems tracks a little further south, so we can have something other than 1 to 2ft down here for a change.  Not that I begrudge you folks getting some swell whilst the water/weather is a little warmer.  Low tide Combesgate session on this arvo, warm and sunny 2ft ish light wind  8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Idol eyes on August 05, 2011, 02:28:34 pm
Its all about the Azores low? been a great summer for surf in the South West... back at work for the next couple of weeks!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 05, 2011, 02:33:06 pm
Aye, but it's actually a reference to the conditions we had a few weeks ago where loads of people got giddy about the number of stars on MSW, but it was blown out to buggery in most places. Looks like this might be similar.

Even if it isn't as sod's law would have it I've got a ridiculously busy week next week, no chance of late starts or 3 hour lunch breaks.

Autumn is not far off though! Hurricane season is a coming; Emily didn't do much, but if a couple of them could track across the Atlantic, up past Iceland and hang around Norway, that would be fab.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on August 09, 2011, 12:50:22 pm
if you had the power, this evening/tomorrow morning on the north east looks to make the best of the current conditions.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2011, 12:57:26 pm
Yup, if it aint a blown out mess up here and I can get out the office at decent hour.

Might even be enough juice to get my local break working; get to actually surf it for the first time since New Year 2007.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 09, 2011, 02:06:18 pm
this morning at the SE facing end of sland was super clean.  waves were a bit close together but had a really nice shape - yesterday there was a little wave but went to check a more remote spot to find about 10 people on it - sour. 
Getting back in this evening, the wind is forecast to drop woop
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 10, 2011, 06:07:59 pm
Big boy drops in to the line-up at the least secret, secret spot in England.  Check this out, not keen to get in the water with this diseased beast festering away so close to the break! 

http://www.eyeballhq.tv/2011/08/10/experts-carry-out-autopsy-on-lynmouth-whale/ (http://www.eyeballhq.tv/2011/08/10/experts-carry-out-autopsy-on-lynmouth-whale/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 10, 2011, 07:47:24 pm
Cool. Shame they aren't going to blow it up like in that classic vid clip

Great Whale Explosion (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIlKxaEIFDk#)

Aberdeen pretty shite last night. Lumpy brown mess with gusty crossshore and choice of either smaller waves breaking at shorebreak or larger ones closing out. Yum. Managed a couple of decent rides, but also wrapped leash round finger being careless retrieving board; now a nice pork sausage and going a bit blue. Deep joy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: sjw on August 10, 2011, 10:24:41 pm
I have nothing constructive to add, but would like to just share my excitement that last weekend I lost my surfing virginity and it was CLASS, enjoyed it loads. Also happy that I have something else to do on rainy weekends now instead of sulking about wet boulders. I do feel a bit daft that I've lived 25 mins from Saltburn all my life and never tried it though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 10, 2011, 10:36:03 pm
we had half of saltburn up our way on tuesday, some perfect waves on the morning but a bit choppy on the night.  Today was really clean off the pier wall and only a handful in.  Feels good having some swell in august.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 11, 2011, 10:12:34 am
Four days of good surf for me. Sunday got a sneaky head high session at the local beach on my own. This was a class example of an invisible swell that didn't even register on the charts yet was really good for a few hours on Sunday PM. I only went to check on a whim with my new longboard in tow but luckily i brought a real board along as well as it was shoulder to head high and pretty sweet.

Monday was a bit wind blown but still got wet.

Tues am. wild and big, not really doing it but i had got out of bed early so i got in, had a few OK waves but to many floggings to call it a good session.

Tues pm - raw solid 6ft swell hitting the reefs, got some proper bombs but loads of shut downs, not really barrelling as tides not right but long fast walls, so busy though 16 in at one point all from tynemouth and all a bit hasslely. 9 of them came up together in two cars, all arriving over the hill on mass. I had got in early so had had my fill and got out. Still don't know why people do this on mass thing as it really spoilt the vibe in the water. I even got an phone call apology of another tynemouth lad who comes up a lot over how they had behaved.
Anyway i still Had a great session on my 6`10" which hardly ever comes out in the summer. smashed the nose on her again though so she will be up for replacement soon as she is held together with glue, only a matter of time before she snaps. (two other boards snapped during the session, not by me though, it must be one of the most expensive waves to surf in the country).

Wednesday am was a different story, same wave on my own for 3/4 hr, tynemouth lads obviously dont like getting up at 5am. The swell had cleaned up and was serving head to head and half clean barrels like we haven't had since the winter. total heaven. Was joined by a few others by 6am but only 6 of us so we had a ball.

Finger crossed for more.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 11, 2011, 11:17:20 am
I agree, some of the best waves ive had in 2011.  Tues morn was the best for us, the reef at the top of sunderland sheltered some of the raw swell and thinned out some big waves to be clean, breaking in a horseshoe. 
No shortage of visiters this time though, we escaped it the other week but there were 30+ in on tuesday night - some welsh lad said that its 10x worse where he was from  :no:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 11, 2011, 11:33:19 am
some welsh lad said that its 10x worse where he was from

If it's Caswell or thereabouts, he's probably right. Crowded up here isn't really like crowded in the SW.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on August 11, 2011, 11:34:50 am
Surfing is so fickle, and so confusing. Yesterday all the signs were mint for Cayton, light offshore - positively still in the car park, reasonable swell size, period etc but it was just a big mess. I suppose this was because of the swell direction which was north yet the beach faces ene? Is it also about bad tides as well?

South bay was much better. Smaller, but clean and organised which is what i need at this stage of floundering.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 11, 2011, 11:43:49 am
Fickle beast word. If yu want to learn more read one of Tony Butt's books - Surf Science or A Surfer's guide to waves coasts and climates.

There are so many potential factors; sometines a swell can get cleaned up by wrapping round into a bay, it could be the state of the beach bottom, could be that one bay has deeper water in front of the beach, state and stage of tide, localised winds etc etc.

Best you can do is is observe things yourself and try to figure out what's happening with the wind, tides waves etc and try to work out best conditions for any break, and build up a picture in your own mind. Also a bit of local knowledge if you can glean any works wonders.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 11, 2011, 11:56:29 am
The swell was too big for the beaches, anything that MSW states is over 4-5 ft will either make the beaches be a general mess and hard to paddle out or if its a super lined up swell they will just close out. The reefs deal with the swell a lot better or places where the swell raps into, hence why my favorite spot was rammed on Tuesday as most other spots were to big and messy.

The N-Ne direction we just had should be good for yorkshire

Cayton is best from 2-4 ft any bigger and start to look elsewhere.

You will get to know where to go after a while but it takes a good bit of time to suss it out, so many variables with the wind, tide (this has a massive effect that i dint think MSW software accounts for) and swell direction. But once you suss it out it will save you a fortune in fuel costs and time from driving up and down the coast.

Re the crowd issue. I am aware the SW and Wales has much larger no of surfers but its mainly all beach which spreads everyone out. The spots up here have a take off area about 10 foot square so if people dint take there turn and stay mellow it just gets depressing.
I watched for about 1/2 hour after i got out on Tuesday and due to how they were all behaving, paddling round each other etc nearly every wave had someone taking off miles to deep and not making the section. I would guess that 60%+ of the waves were wasted like this.

I am thinking of installing one of those ticket machines you get at the deli counter in tesco to try and sort out the problem.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 11, 2011, 01:07:26 pm
Exactly, when the swell first hit i checked my fav left reef but there was alread 8 people in and I couldnt be bothered to hastle for a wave or be a dick and drop in on them.  All it takes is a few people to ruin the atmosphere, especially if they are from ss
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on August 12, 2011, 04:39:20 pm
Back from 4 days Whitby way on.

Properly broke my reef/point cherry. Feels good to be progressing from the beaches after serving the apprenticeship.

Also watched my mate (see below) killing it at a famous left-hand reef of death. Double head barrels - in a kayka! Unbelievable. Better than most of the surfers. Legend:

http://www.chrisharveyonline.net/ (http://www.chrisharveyonline.net/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dr T on August 13, 2011, 09:50:58 am
Not sure if this has been linked to (I do trawl through this thread a lot) but this program (http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.tv/Mentawais-Dreams/Mentawais-Dreams-s01e01) from over-caffeinated sugary drink company TV is cool - some vaguely interesting (i.e. heard most of it before but good to hear again) sports performance coaching stuff on it too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on August 14, 2011, 11:36:11 pm
Chris, from the swell this week in NE:
http://www.youtube.com/chrisharveyonline (http://www.youtube.com/chrisharveyonline)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on August 16, 2011, 02:27:04 pm
Hey up chaps. Injury forces sale of soul to the surf holiday. Im after a few recommendations. Foreign surf destinations/warmish water/cheap flights/none brain uself breaks/chilled no knob heads. Never surfed anywhere but uk and sw spain, was thinking maybe canaries but somewhere further a field could be good.   :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on August 16, 2011, 02:40:35 pm
lanka:

warmish water - bathtub

cheap flights - about 350 a couple of years ago

none brain uself breaks - surfing over corral on the east but mellow. Not indo.

chilled no knob heads - pretty much. Bar mad Cyril.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 16, 2011, 03:03:32 pm
What time of year? You want to drive or fly?

We are thinking Portugal in Octoberish, and from research so far Ericiera looks like a good option; variety of breaks in walking distance / short bus ride, so no hire car needed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on August 16, 2011, 03:51:52 pm
Sometime between start sept & xmas..  fly or drive really which ever works out the cheapest, although ive driven to south spain before and dont fancy doing it again.
I had thought portugal, a mates been and rates it, not sure where though.. somewhere near a load of dws. Water apparently was a bit parky? although it was feb/mar time. When I say parky I mean full suit job.
I do fancy the idea of sri lanka..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 16, 2011, 04:25:53 pm
I think the developed DWS bit is near Sagres, which is apparently good for surfing too. Not looked too closely at it as the lass has been already and wanted to go somewhere else. I think cheap flights to Faro are a good drawcard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on August 16, 2011, 04:36:17 pm
Yep Sagres was it, recognise the name. Just had a look at some of the stuff on msw for ericiera, looks good. Given me something to think about... 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 16, 2011, 04:38:49 pm
dream about. Some good info on both areas in Stormriders too. I know gme has done quite a lot of surfing in Portugal, hopefully he will be along to impart some pearls of wisdom.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on August 16, 2011, 04:46:36 pm
Sagres is good. The Algarve's a bit warmer than further north, being on the tip Sagres has a good selection on nearby waves - south coast is good for when the west's maxed. Everyone was in full suits in Easter, the only time I've been.

Lanka's a different experience. You can fry eggs on your knackers. Up to October is West coast, where I've not been, after Oct it's the East. MSW summarises...

http://magicseaweed.com/Sri-Lanka-Surf-Forecast/54/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Sri-Lanka-Surf-Forecast/54/)

It's half a day in a taxi from Columbo to Hikkaduwa dude...

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/johnwjohnw/smallhikkaduwa.jpg)

Small day on the most crowded wave. Locals come out later in the afternoon. You've pretty much guaranteed surf like this every day, though it got to double over for a bit. I somehow managed to snap a board.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2011, 11:59:58 am
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-north-east-orkney-shetland-14571388 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-north-east-orkney-shetland-14571388)

Oil leak from Gannet continues. Just in case you are wondering if the water in the N Sea looks dirtier or smells worse than usual.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 21, 2011, 03:58:52 am
got my van sorted, got lots of spare time, where to go for a week?  Pref UK.  - hardly any swell anywhere by the looks of it. 
East coast looks like it might have one day of onshore wind swell shite midweek but where should I head.  Ill be alone and keen to surf every day.  North or south is the question, west side looks like its getting a bit of atlantic at the moment.  Im keen to avoid the shite at newq etc
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2011, 06:51:47 pm
Bit of solitude, fairly reliable swell, loads of free wild camping spots for trying out van, and pretty much deserted breaks; Lewis is the place to go.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 22, 2011, 03:42:33 am
been doing some research and checked a few photos:

Is this martin smith who climbs?

http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=30387&browseSession=a18af306922814a3fe456a0d17f2e71b (http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=30387&browseSession=a18af306922814a3fe456a0d17f2e71b)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on August 22, 2011, 08:42:25 am
Didn't know Shaggy surfed. I will send him a message to find out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on August 22, 2011, 09:56:29 am
he doesnt.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Percy B on August 22, 2011, 09:57:11 am
Shaggy doesn't surf. With his BMI, I don't even think he will float.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dobbin on August 22, 2011, 10:00:11 am
Foley has him saved in his telephone as 'Pencil'
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Ru on August 22, 2011, 11:13:27 am
There is more than one Martin Smith in the country? I didn't see that one coming.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: saltbeef on August 22, 2011, 11:15:45 am
on huff's stag do we went in windemere in wetsuits. we were afraid martin would perish. His wetsuit was more "hip-hop" than skin tight.
there's only one bingley bald eagle
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 26, 2011, 05:11:52 pm
change of plan... here we go again east coast
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 26, 2011, 06:19:41 pm
http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/live-gb/ (http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/live-gb/)     friday night in for this
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on August 26, 2011, 07:42:46 pm
http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/live-gb/ (http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/live-gb/)     friday night in for this
cheers for that... friday night sorted.  Not quite the scale of my lunchtime surf but can't complain...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 28, 2011, 07:29:10 pm
had a nice session today on the pier wall, clean waist- shoulder.

Drinking tea and watching:

http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/live-gb/ (http://www.billabongpro.com/tahiti11/live-gb/)

kelly is on now
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 28, 2011, 11:39:28 pm
sat up watching billabong pro. Boards in van ready for morning.

The footage from yesterday is nuts, makes us look like a bunch of wimps pulling back on UK waves.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on August 29, 2011, 09:12:41 am
Amazing footage and photos from Tahiti.  Hope you get some Gav.  It's flat here in Abersoch.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 30, 2011, 09:13:01 am
Some highlights from Saturday:

Tow Session Highlights (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SWgCHGoBpo#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 01, 2011, 04:38:48 pm
fuck a duck. :jaw: and I get scared when it's head height....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 01, 2011, 09:40:33 pm
1:26... To call the lip a lip just doesn't seem an adequate description.  It's a 25ft thick slab hanging in the air...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 01, 2011, 10:06:21 pm
heaviest thing i ever saw...

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 02, 2011, 12:39:57 pm
Had a bunch of good sessions over the last week, couldnt believe i was off work, a great swell arrived, good tides and the best comp for years was on live until 2 am every morning.

Managed to get five really good sessions on my favorite wave over three days. Ranged from 4-5 ft down to 2 ft on the last day. Loads of waves, loads of barrels loads of bloody people.

Autumn is upon us!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 02, 2011, 12:43:20 pm
And next time you pull back from a wave because you tink your to late on it, or its a bit big, think about the tow session linked above and look at the floggings they get.

I will never be anywhere near as good as they are but i can go over the falls as well as the best of them.

Always go, you may get a beating but you will live. On the other hand you may get the wave of your life.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 02, 2011, 01:31:39 pm
was a nice swell that swept through.  had some long sessions in the water, 2 days of pretty much 15 hours in the water and my arms still feel like lead. 
Plenty of barrels and late drop ins on a left reef have been some of the best waves i've caught this year.  Managing to get much better with my cutbacks off the top in the big stuff and pumping through barrels to get out of some of the less make-able exits finally allowed me to beat my brain.
You know when you tell yourself, i'm going to float this section, or i'm going to do a big hack instead of trying to get covered up - when your brain tells you nahhh enjoy the wave, its a good one - keep it safe, stick to what you always do. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 05, 2011, 05:39:46 pm
A few pics from monday last week

Sam Lam
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6186/6116227833_59fcdd526d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67214507@N06/6116227833/)


GME
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/67214507@N06/6116752208/](http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6190/6116752208_5b25ff0518.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67214507@N06/6116227833/)
P1017282 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67214507@N06/6116752208/#) by Gavland (http://www.flickr.com/people/67214507@N06/), on Flickr(http://[url=http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6184/6116750980_fa45924d72.jpg]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6184/6116750980_fa45924d72.jpg[/url]) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67214507@N06/6116750980/)
P1016500 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67214507@N06/6116750980/#) by Gavland (http://www.flickr.com/people/67214507@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2011, 09:27:33 am
Looks good Gav, gutted I was away. Although by the beating of the drums something wicked this way comes. Hope it swings east.

Looks like the rpice of admission for thouse Teahupoo wipeouts were a bit heavy for one poor lass. I haven't embedded the pic as NSFSqueamish

http://www.waterhound.com/surfing/lifestyle/4285-keala-kennellys-graphic-injury-at-teahupoo.html (http://www.waterhound.com/surfing/lifestyle/4285-keala-kennellys-graphic-injury-at-teahupoo.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 06, 2011, 09:47:31 am
Hurricane time is upon us.
Thurso chart is now looked at daily.

Always had dream of following one of these storms from west Ireland to north to north coast of scotland then down the east to home but time restraints mean it hasn't happened yet. This autumn perhaps.   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2011, 09:54:39 am
That would be cool, equivalent of hurrican chasers; Ireland - > Hebrides - > N Coast Scotland  - > Moray Coast -  East Coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 06, 2011, 12:09:47 pm
That great two weeks I had a few years back, whilst not the same swell was a tour of the Celtic NW Europe.

Chris, you and I surfed Aberdeen on the Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday. I then flew home that evening and went to Spain with Gav and Jase on the red eye Friday morning and was surfing near Santander with Patter by 11am.  Three classic days in Northern Spain then I drove to straight to Anglesey from John Lennon airport to meet Dave and was paddling out in perfect Easky Tuesday morning and we had seven days of perfect Ireland.  Got back to Anglesey and met Nicola in Abersoch and caught a decent swell in North Wales for the weekend.  Great days...

I'm keen to get some in this Autumn and up for a Thurso trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 06, 2011, 12:41:51 pm
Will be watching charts for it all the time now.

Still got a good few days holiday to take as i have been so busy this year i have not taken anywhere near my allowance.

Will keep in touch and let you know when charts look good for a 3-4 day dash.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2011, 01:06:58 pm
Give us a holler too, would love to get up there. FD, could find an excuse for a last minute meeting in Aberdeen?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 06, 2011, 05:08:30 pm
Yep yep :bounce:  Autumn has arrived..  Surfed a sneaky left that never works in the summer this morning!

Looking at the charts, everyone is going to score over the coming week, predictions are looking sick especially for sheltered spots down here!  Have fun everyone.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on September 07, 2011, 03:12:11 am
Its been small but fun here as of late - at least the sun is starting to shine

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/spring-2.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 07, 2011, 03:10:04 pm
What lens are you shooting surf pics with Nick? Looks pin sharp.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on September 07, 2011, 11:14:32 pm
All of the previous ones have been with a 70-200 2.8IS (Canon) with a 1.4x converter, but this ones with my new 100-400 4-5.6

Its been sharpened a little in lightroom and with a bit of mid tone contrast (clarity) added but I'm really pleased with the results I'm getting from it
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 08, 2011, 08:53:45 am
Looks good. Having waves when the sun is actually shining is an advantage Oz has over Scotland.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 08, 2011, 02:26:36 pm
http://www.quiksilverpro.com/live.en.html (http://www.quiksilverpro.com/live.en.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 08, 2011, 10:52:21 pm
Cheers Philo.. Looks like they had better waves today and it's gonna get better tommorow into Saturday.  Heitor Alvez is killing it, I wonder if he is named after the most famous of Dartmoor tors :-\ 

That little bad girl of a storm producing waves for the pros is still forecast to swing back our way early next week and then on up to you later in the week.  Epic waves from Morroco to Whitby :w00t:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on September 09, 2011, 08:00:14 am
That little bad girl of a storm producing waves for the pros is still forecast to swing back our way early next week and then on up to you later in the week. 

accompanied by howling onshore winds..  :-(

Granticus - you heading to the Fish Fry next weekend at Crackington?  camping with the family if it's reasonable weather
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2011, 08:55:04 am
Epic waves from Morroco to Whitby

Except Aberdeen, probably. If we get epic waves here it will be a first.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 09, 2011, 09:12:39 am
That little bad girl of a storm producing waves for the pros is still forecast to swing back our way early next week and then on up to you later in the week. 

accompanied by howling onshore winds..  :-(

Granticus - you heading to the Fish Fry next weekend at Crackington?  camping with the family if it's reasonable weather

Not onshore everywhere a quick scan of a map will reveal potential for good quality sheltered surf, my favourite down your way in these conditions is Hayle rivermouth... 

Alas I can't be at the Fish Fry next weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 09, 2011, 03:43:12 pm
http://quiksilverpro.com/live.en.html (http://quiksilverpro.com/live.en.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 12, 2011, 03:20:58 pm
Well the swell has hit the SW with a vengance this weekend, solid scarey on-shore surf at west facing beachies.
Sheltered 'secret' spots were firing all over yesterday, set to stay with the solid swell all day today and tommorow.
With more to come later in the week.  Been on dad duty all weekend so only had a late session last night and working all day today!! Dawn patrol tommorow at another secret left.  Good times!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 12, 2011, 03:23:48 pm
ive been itching to get in it on the sw but its a bit too local knowledge.  Hoping it will swing north eastwards on thurs till the weekend.  we can hope
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 12, 2011, 03:25:18 pm
Current forecasts look for it to be petering out by the time it gets round here. Maybe OK further down the coast, but not enough swell for Aberdeen. Drive up to Broch may be required, if wind behaves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 12, 2011, 09:51:28 pm
It's been going mental over here, big enough for the the sheltered spots to work, even popular local spots like Nobla have been delivering the goods, off all week now so can't wait...gme- sounds cheesy but fuck it, I had your words in my head on the bigger waves after watching that tow in session and am having the best surf ever this last week, something has definitely clicked on my short board and it feels amazing, I'm still shit but suddenly it all makes sense, like the first time you learn to ollie up a curb or down some steps...bring it on!  :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on September 12, 2011, 10:57:11 pm
Looks good. Having waves when the sun is actually shining is an advantage Oz has over Scotland.

Plenty of these bad boys out over the weekend too  ;D

More here (http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/2011/09/sand-rock-and-dolphins/)

(http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/spring-weekend-5.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 13, 2011, 06:50:18 am
We get a fair fewof them visiting. Same probs with sunshine though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2011, 09:48:42 am
Rebel Session #1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH_mk5kFurQ&feature=relmfu#ws)

First winters swells hit Dungeons.

More clips on Youtube.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on September 14, 2011, 10:08:17 am
granticus - don't worry i'm quite aware of the sheltered spots ;-)  it's just none of them work in a Westerly...   as it turns out it was SW not W and hence hayle river mouth was indeed my friend.  Also made for fun lifeboat training on Sunday, out in the big old swell.

Tomorra is looking lovely for Cornwall, should be light easterlies and head high or so I reckon
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 14, 2011, 01:24:49 pm
You're right, Not many spots that work in a westerly, there are a few but a BIG swell is required.

Yeah!!  Wind disappearing and turning offshore tommorow with the swell continuing! Should be great!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2011, 10:57:46 am
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/money_co/2011/08/surfer-tells-board-manufacturer-pay-up-brah.html (http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/money_co/2011/08/surfer-tells-board-manufacturer-pay-up-brah.html)

Unbelievable. Wonder what makers of crampons and ice axes will make of it?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 17, 2011, 08:37:28 pm
So stoked, had best surf today since January. After howling storms overnight today dawned still fresh and clear. Quick walk to the cliffs near the house confirmed a nice little swell coming in. Zoomed over to Aberdeen to find some lovely waist - chest high waves on the sets which peeled beautifully at dead low. Had a couple of hours on the longboard enjoying some perfect trim, bliss.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 18, 2011, 01:06:27 pm
aye, today and yesterday having chest high peeling rights at a small beach with my mate tony.  Its been smallish but super clean - nothing on the horizon for the next few weeks though  :wavecry:

also, from the sea watched a dog fall down a flight of stairs
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 18, 2011, 08:21:16 pm
same over here, both Cariad and Hells mouth peeling beautifully......worth all the sessions in substandard surf over the last two weeks just for one wave today.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on September 18, 2011, 08:36:58 pm
same over here, both Cariad and Hells mouth peeling beautifully......worth all the sessions in substandard surf over the last two weeks just for one wave today.  :2thumbsup:
This I have never seen!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 19, 2011, 08:53:37 pm
chanced the pier tonight with my fish when it was a bit shallow, ended up in till nightfall catching some clean waist high rights off the wall by myself for a couple of hours.  stoked - took some pics because people wouldn't believe me!

(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/017.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 19, 2011, 09:09:29 pm
I got reports that there was a knee to waist high swell tonight

Stuck in London but probably wouldn't have got in. Got rid of the log, not my thing at all. Can see it might be fun in bit bigger waves but my shortboard works from waist up.

Happy days today as just booked Mentawai trip for next year. Going to kandui villas this time instead of a boat. Roll on six months.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 19, 2011, 10:13:53 pm
aye, compared to the last swell we had it was a dribble but some alright rides.  my 5'8x22 fish will catch anything coming and is fine from dribble to overhead.  Why not a boat again?  what was it like doing a boat trip? im quite interested
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 19, 2011, 10:21:50 pm
Is your log sold and gone gme? I'm looking for one a bit more progressive than what I have.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 20, 2011, 10:24:53 am
I don't think progressive would be a word i would have used to describe the board i had. A massive piece of plastic would be a better idea. Its gone back as i was lucky enough to have it on try before you buy.

I had hoped it would allow me to get in the water a lot more and surf with the boys but now realise that due to the lack of time i have i am better out bouldering, training and doing all my chores etc. when its small and waiting until the waves get good again. The kids still need loads of supervision in the water as Mum will kill me if i loose one of them.

Philo - boat trips are great, i love them to bits and have done 5 but we fancied a change. The mentawais now has loads of land camps and the government is trying to limit the no. of boats as they put little if anything back into the local economy. Plus it was actually cheaper to goto a luxury camp than an average boat.

Heres a link to the welcome video for the place we are staying. WELCOME TO KANDUI RESORT (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBGraEp3vJ8#ws)

Whilst living on a cramped boat for 12 days is great fun, there is no doubting that where we are going is going to be a lot more pleasant than waking up each day with someones feet 3 inches away from your face. The surfing is just as good and with more choice. One of the only friction points you get on a boat is where to surf, you all have to go to the same wave like it or lump it.

In a camp you can all choose where you go.

Saying all that i might hate it and be back on boats in 2013
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 20, 2011, 10:45:04 am
I don't think progressive would be a word i would have used to describe the board i had. A massive piece of plastic would be a better idea. Its gone back as i was lucky enough to have it on try before you buy.


Doesn't sound much better than mine in that case anyway. Menatawis look great, how many of you going? Would love to go, but I just don't think I could do the waves justice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 20, 2011, 03:19:25 pm
Seven of us at the minute, all mates who have done a few trips together which makes the trip more enjoyable. Most of us are ex climbers who have been doing trips for years so its a really good craic from start to finish.

I have been to this area before when i was a pretty shite surfer (not that i am any good now) and there are waves for everyone other than true beginners. Nipussi, burgerworld and bikini lefts are like a really good day on the beaches here, not as heavy as Thurso east by a long shot. Britain really does have some heavy waves that are on a par to a lot over there so dont be put off. Plus they are like glass a lot of the time which, as we all know makes it so much easier to surf.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 20, 2011, 03:53:26 pm
One day....

Although I would probably go catskiing if I had the cash.

Too much fun, too little money and time.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 20, 2011, 04:41:47 pm
Quote
there are waves for everyone other than true beginners. Nipussi, burgerworld and bikini lefts are like a really good day on the beaches here, not as heavy as Thurso east by a long shot. Britain really does have some heavy waves that are on a par to a lot over there so dont be put off. Plus they are like glass a lot of the time which, as we all know makes it so much easier to surf.

 :'(  Super Jealous! Maybe one day when time, money and Mrs Granticus permits  :spank: 

In the meantime getting pysched to run away from the coast and family for a weekend to surf some Yorkshire gritstone!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 20, 2011, 06:34:36 pm
http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm (http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 21, 2011, 04:08:53 pm
http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm (http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm)


finals day today in Tressles
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on October 02, 2011, 08:26:17 pm
same over here, both Cariad and Hells mouth peeling beautifully......worth all the sessions in substandard surf over the last two weeks just for one wave today.  :2thumbsup:
This I have never seen!
Spoke too soon. Well, sort of. Hells mouth was waist to chest and totally mindless. I think my 'perfectly peeling' radar is set a little high after visiting currumbin, Byron, lennox and crescent head this summer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 02, 2011, 09:05:14 pm
my perfect English peel is the gare,  gme surfed it?  I love that place, apart from the crowds.  I hope this little swell heading our way materializes.
ASP france due to start, its going to be perfect timing. 

been watching some strange videos lately, but the fish interviews always make me laugh
Quiky Pro Australia 2011 (http://www.vimeo.com/21001550)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on October 02, 2011, 09:14:59 pm
Obviously that was meant to say windless.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 02, 2011, 10:13:46 pm
Philo
Have surfed the gare a few times but don't like the crowds. Surf it's relative that goes the right way in the other ne rivermouth lots. This gets really busy too but I know a lot of them so no Agro.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 03, 2011, 11:30:46 am
aye same here, i always see the same faces but theres still hassling for waves.  if any of the SS lot are in any of those breaks, its pointless getting in.
everyone always bangs on about the one up your way which puts me off as its also crowded. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 03, 2011, 12:52:39 pm
yeah it has got pretty busy in the last few years and getting worse. There never seams to be an issue of one of the UK mags out that dosent have a picture of it in.

I was getting pissed off but now just accept it. Its still mellow most days and i get all the waves i want but they know i am a "local" so i get space. You have to take waves now though and it used to be that they were shared.

I lost my rag one day with a young kid from newcastle who was paddling round everyone and not queing, had a proper shout at him in the water (i was having a bad day) and i guess word gets round among the young grommits to steer clear of the knarly old local guys (theres only 2 of us but we are both the wrong side of 40 and i guess must seem old and scary to 18 year olds). So now they all tow the line.
The pros who come up are usually very careful not to tread on anyones toes and pretty much let you have what waves you want.

You can still get it to yourself though in the depths of winter or just with a few mates.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 03, 2011, 01:13:56 pm
well, the pier wall down our way is manic at times and the SS lot will constantly snake you.  They do it everywhere, i was down saltburn before and some locals were getting out because of it.
But that's what they want - people to get out.  Its mostly mellow down our way apart from the peaky spots like the one mentioned and another point break.
I surf the low key areas with a handful of people and most miss it to go to the well known spots.  It is getting to be a massive problem hassling for waves but i guess its part of the norm.
I never surf the middens because of it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 03, 2011, 01:30:35 pm
The middens is funny as they all paddle themselves to deep a lot of the time, but only a few of them are good enough to make the first section.
If you sit a bit wide and inside you can pick up a lot of waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 03, 2011, 07:33:57 pm
Who are the 'SS' lot? They sound like the Cartmans ('RESPECT MY AUTHORITAR!') you get round Scarborough.

I generally surf between Whitby and Saltburn now - much better vibe. Made some good mates.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 04, 2011, 08:37:13 am
The SS lot are an unfortunate bunch of Geordie's who have to live in the netherlands between Newcastle and Sunderland. These poor unfortunate souls have been brought up wearing black and white but have the displeasure of living closer to the stadium of shite than to a real football ground.

They also have to surf the worst beach in the north east so must travel a lot to other spots, usually in the red and white area (small) of the NE.

This all makes them very confused as to there true identities so they behave like dicks in the water. Whilst this is not an excuse i do have an amount of sympathy for them.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 04, 2011, 10:05:35 am
when he says act like dicks, he means they snake constantly, drop in all of the time and know what they are doing.
Its not always bad at SS just most of the time, at low tide you can get barreled on the beach break but its usually close out central.
They dont travel in one and twos, they go in groups of 5+
anyways i hope this swell develops for the week ahead, ive been doing alot of skating in a bowl attempting 180s and failing.  I always feel like my surfing is cleaner when ive done a stint of skating before a swell arives
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 04, 2011, 01:59:12 pm
here we go with the quicky pro france:


http://quiksilverlive.com/profrance2011/liveHD.en.html (http://quiksilverlive.com/profrance2011/liveHD.en.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 04, 2011, 02:32:29 pm
main event should start tomorrow, with the weekend looking classic for the finals.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 05, 2011, 08:57:57 am
Comp on today.

http://quiksilverlive.com/profrance2011/liveHD.en.html (http://quiksilverlive.com/profrance2011/liveHD.en.html)

Looks nice but a bit mellow, probably the tide. Hopefully starts barelling once tide swings.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 08, 2011, 10:18:03 pm
The early bird gets the worms! In water by 7:30, me and two mates in and two others. Gorgeous sunrise, think we were the only ones who saw the sun today. And made most of low tide to score some great long rights, and a couple of short lefts. By the time I got out at just before 10 there were 20 folk in squabbling over short closeouts on the beachbreak. Got GoPro out for a change so got somegood footage too. Life is good. Looks like they had good conditions for the Gathering up at Fraserburgh too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 09, 2011, 02:13:43 pm
headed out to my local spot with my mates as it sticks out and caught some good waves this morning and pushing through mid tide. 
yesterday was pretty good too.  Managed to fuck my hand skating and needed to put my gloves on to give my wrist stability.  A few duck dives and head freeze kicking in- eek its getting colder
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 09, 2011, 04:01:00 pm
Best day of the year yesterday. I only got an hour and half before having to dash to a wedding. Proper stand up straight barrels. Got in at dark and by the time I got out there were nearly 20 in. Still got 4 good waves and a couple of proper floggings. Lip launched on a double over head one was pretty exciting.

Will yet again all over next months mags as 8 pros up from pastie land. Richie sills , olly Adams, johnny fryer, Tom butler plus others.  Water photog there to record all.

Olly got hurt after I left hitting the slab.

Heavy,  board snapping, hollow perfection. Here comes the winter.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2011, 08:49:05 pm
Did you have a good sunrise too gme?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2011, 10:27:34 am
(http://www.muddymess.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/DNW_4016-500x355.jpg)

Mates greeting the dawn. Yes they know they look like plums.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ianto9 on October 13, 2011, 01:30:40 am
 can't upload a pic nevermind i'll enjoy it myself,picture! perfect female reverse hangten on chesthigh wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 17, 2011, 01:15:52 pm
http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?portugal2011Live (http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?portugal2011Live)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 22, 2011, 05:37:09 pm
had a few days of northeast heavy waves.  Surfed a reef point on thursday  and friday night getting barreled most waves. I love the strong powerful waves that get chucked up into a small take off zone, couple of paddles and a steep drop into a cover up straight away.  this morning I went through saltburn and it was waist to chest high but pretty rubbish, the wave is so slow off the beach, should have traveled the extra hour to the xxx or xxxxx
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on October 23, 2011, 09:08:36 pm


whilst they're hardly secrets the convention is not to name G&S on open forums.

(this post is straight outa yorkshire, gwan where's that point?  :-\)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on October 23, 2011, 09:55:37 pm
You shittin me? I've got at least two surf guides from like...erm...waterstones or amazon or summat which name them both. It's hardly like that posts gonna make a difference.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 23, 2011, 10:21:21 pm
Top secret as far as I can tell.

http://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/Staithes (http://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/Staithes)
http://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/The-Gare (http://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/The-Gare)

Had my first experience of wave-rage today though luckily no one was in earshot.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 23, 2011, 11:18:37 pm
Missed Thursday(Scarborough points were cranking apparently), but managed to get out of work early and in at Saltburn behind the pier by Friday tea time. Solid 4ft/5ft on sets and steeper, hollower and faster than usual. Great session. Back there again on Saturday morning but swell had dropped to 2ft sets. Still fun on a single fin 7ft magic carpet.

Anyway, SSE swell due to hit tomorrow, but where to go? South Park (Bay)? Filey? Brid? Any advice appreciated team.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on October 24, 2011, 09:51:47 am
You shittin me? I've got at least two surf guides from like...erm...waterstones or amazon or summat which name them both. It's hardly like that posts gonna make a difference.

Sure they're well known but they're not in Stormrider; MagicSeaweed doesn't forecast and deletes
any reference from its forums. There is on-line info for anyone who looks for it. (Though if a near local and clearly far better surfer than me thinks there's fraction of a chance  that one of them might've worked on a dying northerly then that info still has someway to diffuse.) 

But all forums has a lot of lurkers, I should know. This thread will have casual readers. There's just no need to go naming sensitive spots and bit by bit getting the info out there.  As I say if a couple fo the posts up above had been on msw they'd've been modded off in no time.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 24, 2011, 12:02:38 pm
Baron, I've surfed the point at Saltburn (rh end of beach looking out) on a SE'erly.  It was a good right hander..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 24, 2011, 03:04:37 pm
aye fair enough, though theres always 20-30 in anyways, can someone edit my post and rename it to s and g
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 24, 2011, 05:07:03 pm
Aye, the point rules. Tried to get on it a couple of weekends ago but the cross shore wind/rip took us straight out of the line up and in to the impact zone. Got some beauties on the head. Went back to the beach after that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 24, 2011, 05:19:29 pm
ive surfed that right point too but its a bit of a paddle out when its big.  surfed it more on an east but the south east with the wind tomorrow might actually make it viable.  the cliffs offer some shelter anyways
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on October 24, 2011, 06:11:18 pm
I'm on a hiding to nothing here I know...  Of course this isn't remotely secret, it's just another quality non-beginner Yorks wave that's conditions dependent, still off most people's radar and can't handle much of a crowd (though for Salty beach, S. Bay, Filey or Brid go for it by all means...)

It's doing my head to come here for the cryptics thread and see detailed discussion of what sensitive Yorkshire spot's going to
 be working when on a popular - check the page views - open, googlable forum.  I get that not everyone's going to get this, and I'm not exactly enforcer material having been drummed out of the brownies for cowardice (actually where's gme?), but it's just best not to do it for reasons that would take as long to explain as any climbing bloody ethics. There's always pm.   

I'd head for Northumberland's sweet spots on an SE'ly anyway  :whistle:.


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 24, 2011, 06:22:24 pm
I take your point John but this is a wave that's visible from, and on the same beach as Saltburn pier which after Scarborough must be the most popular spots on the East Coast.  But you're right, a PM would've been best.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 24, 2011, 07:00:47 pm
Great conditions on the Lleyn at the 'secret spot' where the sand whistles today.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 25, 2011, 01:49:16 pm
Great to hear that the NE has been getting some juice recently, very interesting to hear debate about naming 'secret' spots etc..  IMHO The thing about openly discussing and naming the more well known 'secrets' (particularly on t'interweb) is that more people that, perhaps, shouldn't be anywhere near them get to know about them and try to surf them.

Anyhow....... 10ft at 17secs  :jaw: is forecast for N Devon on Sunday, I know where I'd normally be headed for and I won't be naming it.  Alas, I have a Welsh family gathering to attend in everyone's favourite sea-side resort Port Talbot.  Always seem to miss waves when I go up there, so excited to see what's on offer (inside the breakwater???!!)...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on October 25, 2011, 03:41:27 pm
Great conditions on the Lleyn at the 'secret spot' where the sand whistles today.

Not just great, effin amazing.

Great to hear that the NE has been getting some juice recently, very interesting to hear debate about naming 'secret' spots etc..  IMHO The thing about openly discussing and naming the more well known 'secrets' (particularly on t'interweb) is that more people that, perhaps, shouldn't be anywhere near them get to know about them and try to surf them

Good point, i just didnt understand his concern when the examples mentioned are in books, with photos, grid refs, access notes, conditions info etc etc. Secret?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on October 25, 2011, 05:36:57 pm
Who said secret? I'm saying no need to promote them further. And thanks Shark for editing.

I'll explain my concerns if you really want...

I know where I'd normally be headed for and I won't be naming it.

No, no, you must feel free to discuss SW spots in as much detail as possible.... :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 25, 2011, 06:47:17 pm
Quote
No, no, you must feel free to discuss SW Cornish spots in as much detail as possible....

And here I was thinking you folk from the NE are the caring and sharing types that would love all the sponsored 'heros' from down yer to head up to share all your favourite spots everytime a decent swell hits.. 


Quote
Who said secret? I'm saying no need to promote them further

 :agree:

Kind of want I meant, just because a spot is named in a guidebook or on a website doesn't necessarily mean that folk are happy for it to be there, nor is it a given that this should open up the spot to further promotion.  The sensitivity is probably due to the fact that it was a 'secret' spot in first place.  ie. Once a secret, then in guidebooks, then named in magazines etc..  The knock on of this, is that the spot then goes on everyone's hitlist regardless of whether it's a suitable wave for them to be attempting to surf or whether they know how to behave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 26, 2011, 12:14:25 pm
been in the "G" spot for the last 2 days with over head heavy barrels.  round 2 this afternoon, anyone else been out?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on October 26, 2011, 12:49:03 pm
...got a couple of foaming at the mouth texts along the lines of clean as fuck overhead barrelling madness. (I've only surfed there when dragged along with mates, being realistic about my level frankly - another reason  the less competition the better.)

Just about to head for the coast...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 26, 2011, 07:04:00 pm
yesterday it was pretty much double overhead and really heavy thick lips.  got destroyed by one barrel that landed on my back when I tried to take off late and couldn't turn and tuck quick enough. 
today was a bit more mellow but still stupidly good, endlessly peeling and of course crowded
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 26, 2011, 07:35:04 pm
I nearly headed to gland yesterday but the crowd report made me go elsewhere

Amazed it worked today as the Scarborough waves were only chest high.
It's a great wave though but the crowds mean you only get four or five waves.
On holiday in yorks and wish I had been home as a couple of rare gems would have worked today. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on October 26, 2011, 08:38:58 pm
5ft Whitby yesterday afternoon (got to see exactly why it has an enormous breakwater at the harbour mouth). 4ft Sandsend twice today. Narrowly avoided a good shafting from the shore dump. Thought I'd finish with a nice, mellow Saltburn on way home this evening - FAIL. Didn't make the paddle out. Cranking 4-5ft and my poor arms couldn't take it. Considered jumping off the pier but haven't done it before so wasn't sure of the required technique etc. Back tomorrow - lets jam!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 27, 2011, 02:39:05 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/video/votd.php?id=133 (http://magicseaweed.com/video/votd.php?id=133)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 27, 2011, 03:30:47 pm
whoops was meant to post this:

http://www.oneill.com/cwc/LiveClassic.html (http://www.oneill.com/cwc/LiveClassic.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on October 28, 2011, 01:53:32 pm
couple of pics - not mine - from the other day:


(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y162/southofsaltburn/IMG_7651.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y162/southofsaltburn/IMG_7650.jpg)


that guy can surf but he's got a lot of fingers...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: duncan on October 28, 2011, 08:28:00 pm
PHANTOM WATER EDIT (http://vimeo.com/30830412)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on October 29, 2011, 04:49:05 pm
get your stoke on:

http://www.oneill.com/cwc/LiveClassic.html (http://www.oneill.com/cwc/LiveClassic.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 31, 2011, 04:15:06 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/Shipsterns-Up-To-11-Content/3523/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Shipsterns-Up-To-11-Content/3523/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 01, 2011, 06:19:33 pm
Kelly one step closer to 11:

http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?Search2011LiveControl (http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?Search2011LiveControl)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 03, 2011, 04:51:12 pm
Ben Skinner on the cribber the other day.

The Cribbar 30 foot waves! Big Wave Surfing in Newquay 30th Oct 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbrcRk6BtXw#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on November 04, 2011, 07:32:19 pm
Oh dear...

http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?aid=2008 (http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?aid=2008)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 04, 2011, 11:05:49 pm
Still a foregone conclusion.

Slater is god
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on November 05, 2011, 01:24:52 am
Agreed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 05, 2011, 07:07:47 pm
Epic swell all week this week in the SW.  Been a great week, although I did arrive one morning to find Britain's top 32 competing on the peak I wanted to surf at.  Here's hoping the coverage of the comp is kept low key. 

Anyhow... if you've nowt to do this evening there is live coverage from Sunset beach here http://www.vans.com/microsites/hic-pro/webcast.html (http://www.vans.com/microsites/hic-pro/webcast.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on November 05, 2011, 08:28:19 pm
it's been epic eh..   looking like next week could bring more of the same!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 05, 2011, 09:03:44 pm
You can both,  get to fuck. Approx sod all here last week, next week looks the same.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 06, 2011, 10:17:42 am
You can both,  get to fuck. Approx sod all here last week, next week looks the same.
  Here's a vid of said comp to give you taste of what we've been surfing down here in North Devon for the last week  :P   There's more on the way too.
Ah! Don't get jealous now Chris, something good will come your way soon enough and it'll be our turn for flatness.

UKPST Lynmouth Nov 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2YewDyVWEk#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 06, 2011, 08:04:25 pm
back on:

http://www.live.ripcurl.com/index.php?Search2011LiveControl (http://www.live.ripcurl.com/index.php?Search2011LiveControl)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on November 06, 2011, 10:23:20 pm
10 point barrel victory lap
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2011, 08:47:59 am
Quote
Here's hoping the coverage of the comp is kept low key. 


You aren't helping with that!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 08, 2011, 03:04:49 pm
Quote
Here's hoping the coverage of the comp is kept low key. 


You aren't helping with that!

Oh.. Come on Chris, unfortunately this particular cat is well and truly out of the bag. The circa 150 (no joke) people in the water last Sunday, on what was a particularly small and uninspiring day, would suggest linking a video that was on Eyeball's website to UKB won't make the slightest difference.

What would be worse, would be if a major surfing website like MSW were to run a video article about the event linked off their home page.  Oh.. hang on a minute.  :slap:

I hear they'll be adding a NE venue beginning with S to UKPST internary next year  :P
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 08, 2011, 03:40:07 pm
Yeah, Stonehaven is going to be off the charts.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 08, 2011, 04:17:29 pm
Yeah, Stonehaven is going to be off the charts.
:lol:  Can't believe you just named it on this forum, there will be hell to pay!
Title: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 08, 2011, 05:43:13 pm
Uhh...
Surfed there 20 years ago, when I was living in Whitley bay, wasn't so secret then; some guy in a pub told me about it...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 08, 2011, 09:15:43 pm
Where stonehaven.
I have been told some shite by men in Whitley bay pubs before but that takes the biscuit
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 08, 2011, 09:43:52 pm
Uhh...
Surfed there 20 years ago, when I was living in Whitley bay, wasn't so secret then; some guy in a pub told me about it...

Quote
WARNING! Posting may contain traces of irony, spoonerisms, sarcasm or other attempts at humour. Not suitable for consumption by foody muckers.
Title: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 08, 2011, 09:50:29 pm
God, can't remember now.
There were a couple of lads who worked in Swans with me and we visited a shed load of breaks, right up (and down) the coast, in the 7 months I was there (only worked 3 days per week, heaven).
I was joking about the guy in the pub...
My point was, in usual obscure way, there's little new. I've been shown a few "secret spots" over the years, usually by locals.
I grew up in North Cornwall and cherished a few spots myself, untill I found out my dad and his mates had been surfing them before I was born.

And, this isn't a major forum...

Oh and I've paddled out before dawn, at my favorite spot, only to find twenty kids in the line up.
It's a pain.
But it happens...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 08, 2011, 10:03:36 pm
I might be wrong but I think Chris was being sarcastic (who'd av funk it?), Stonehaven is not a secret by any stretch and not likely to be on the UKPSTs hit list of the best waves in the UK.

I was definitely being sarcastic. :guilty:  There will be no hell to pay.

However, if I were to name the spot I was thinking of there might be hell to pay...




Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 09, 2011, 08:06:39 am
Surfer rides 90 foot wave (World Record) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyBzYCEyUlE#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2011, 09:28:58 am
I might be wrong but I think Chris was being sarcastic (who'd av funk it?), Stonehaven is not a secret by any stretch and not likely to be on the UKPSTs hit list of the best waves in the UK.

Understatement of the year.

It's 10 miles from me, and probably the only break visible from the A90. I check it most times there is any swell on, but haven't surfed it since New Year 2007.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 09, 2011, 10:50:36 am
Crazy big wave Jasper!

Croyde boy Cotty's been in on this action too and has started a blog. 
http://www.eyeballhq.tv/2011/11/09/yeah-that-is-me-surfing-and-yeah-that-guy-leaning-out-the-helicopter-is-filming/ (http://www.eyeballhq.tv/2011/11/09/yeah-that-is-me-surfing-and-yeah-that-guy-leaning-out-the-helicopter-is-filming/)
Mcnamara's new film is sounding good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 09, 2011, 11:00:06 am
I KNOW HE WAS BEING SARCASTIC

We all know he meant South Shields not Stonehaven ! :whistle: ;) :P :shrug:

do you need to tell everyone when your joking by inserting some funny faced type thingy every time you post.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2011, 11:04:22 am
I thought it was Saltburn.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 09, 2011, 02:45:19 pm
I KNOW HE WAS BEING SARCASTIC

We all know he meant South Shields not Stonehaven ! :whistle: ;) :P :shrug:

do you need to tell everyone when your joking by inserting some funny faced type thingy every time you post.

YES

Got to find a way to add emoticons to the ifern app.
then I could have  :whistle: 'ed on the first post and avoided long rambling burble in second...
 :wall:
(Though, it is true; that I tend to not let one word suffice, when a thousand will confuse the issue (a picture being the obvious answer there)).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on November 09, 2011, 08:21:29 pm
Wasn't sure if we were all talking on cross purposes.

Anyhow it's Sutton-On-Sea, there I've said it now. :ras:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on November 11, 2011, 12:32:22 pm
Yo east coasters, any eyeballs on how this east/south easterly is shaping up? Thoughts on tomorrow? Had a load of fun with the last one couple of weeks ago.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 11, 2011, 12:43:15 pm
very messy today as strong offshore winds. Not anywhere big enough for the usual E/SE swell sheltered spots to work.

Wind should drop overnight and i guess leaving a lumpy bumpy swell in the morning cleaning up throughout the day. Should be a decent day.

I like it when its a bit raw and chunky on a SE swell. Tends to hit the banks on the beaches better than a northerly.

I will be checking a few nice rare slabs up my way but think the southerly wind might still be a bit strong so probably end up on the beaches. Maybe late in the day it will be light enough.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2011, 01:58:45 pm
I will be punishing my liver at a stag in Edinburgh, so will miss out.

This looks like it might be worth adding to the Xmas list, one of surfing's legend, the man behind the brand

http://store.magicseaweed.com/Jack-ONeill-Book/Item/16252/ (http://store.magicseaweed.com/Jack-ONeill-Book/Item/16252/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 11, 2011, 02:39:28 pm
been out to check it and the wind has ruined it down my way, tomorrow ill be in morning in a sheltered spot and hoping the wind drops through the day!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on November 11, 2011, 03:04:30 pm
Someone took a couple of half decent pics of me yesterday for about the first time ever...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7261339@N04/6334228802/#in/photostream/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7261339@N04/6334228802/#in/photostream/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2011, 03:10:05 pm
Looks good Ben. Love the Gwenvor ruler lines too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 11, 2011, 03:19:35 pm
looks really nice ben. And bloody warm, we are pretty much wintered up here now. 5/3 boots and hood, not done the gloves yet but guess it wont be long.

I always forget how much warmer it is down south
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 12, 2011, 03:40:37 pm
christ that looks warm ben, was in full winter gear today with boots and gloves, no hood yet though. 

Anyone else manage to get anything today?  It was a strong southerly that was a bastard to paddle.  Was alone all day today near my house at a reef point that breaks right into a beach and was epic.  The paddling was a nightmare and I felt so unfit trying to paddle through treacle. 
Was some nice clean waves when the wind dropped and the sets stood up overhead. 
AND it was sunny, whats the odds?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 12, 2011, 06:11:50 pm
Had a great session at a rarely working left slab/ point. Only works on se swell with no wind.
Really ledgey take off to a speedy wall. Got a few gems and a sore ankle from bouncing the rocks hard.
Few four to five footers among the head high ones.
Wind got up by 11 and messed it up so spent a few hours on the beach which was fun but fat.
Nice and warm for the time of year.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on November 12, 2011, 08:07:10 pm
Had hoped to have kicked this cold in to touch for this morning. Alas, no joy and no surf for me.

Maybe tomorrow, if there's much juice left in it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 12, 2011, 08:58:34 pm
If you want a surf tomorrow i would get up early. i guess it will be all over by 9 ish as winds going to be on shore.

Should be light first thing. I am staying in bed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on November 12, 2011, 09:21:40 pm
first lights just before 7.  get in early, the swell seemed quite strong for a southern so it might hang around
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 14, 2011, 09:17:34 am
Had hoped to have kicked this cold in to touch for this morning

If it's just a head cold, I find salt water really clears the sinuses!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on November 16, 2011, 09:47:34 am
Some recent footage from ireland. Nothing special, just the usual slab tow ins.

However hang around until the end if you like a bit of bodyboard action.

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/atlantic-slab-session_62532 (http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/atlantic-slab-session_62532)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 21, 2011, 01:50:00 pm
In an effort to get out the logging rut for the winter, just got me a 2nd hand Campbell Bros Bonzer. At 7ft 2 it's probably a bit big for shortboard purists, but should be good for gutless Aberdeen waves.

Hopefully changing out log too. For something a bit heavier but more performance orientated.

All I need now is SOME FUCKING WAVES!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on November 28, 2011, 02:59:59 pm
Just seen this on the moon blog: http://www.moonclimbing.com/Bernhard-Fiedler- (http://www.moonclimbing.com/Bernhard-Fiedler-)-Log-Book-Entry-October-2011-n-1109.html

Already wanted to go surfing in Sri Lanka but this might provide an extra reason:

(http://www.moonclimbing.com/images/categories_desc/Shane/BerniFiedler/originals/pottuvilBoulderingSriLanka.jpg)

(http://www.moonclimbing.com/images/categories_desc/Shane/BerniFiedler/originals/srilankanBlocksFishermen.jpg)
Title: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 28, 2011, 05:07:30 pm
Just seen this on the moon blog: http://www.moonclimbing.com/Bernhard-Fiedler- (http://www.moonclimbing.com/Bernhard-Fiedler-)–-Log-Book-Entry-October-2011-n-1109.html

Already wanted to go surfing in Sri Lanka but this might provide an extra reason:

(http://www.moonclimbing.com/images/categories_desc/Shane/BerniFiedler/originals/pottuvilBoulderingSriLanka.jpg)

(http://www.moonclimbing.com/images/categories_desc/Shane/BerniFiedler/originals/srilankanBlocksFishermen.jpg)

Lived in Hikadwa (don't remember spelling) in '96. Surfing was mint. I remeber seeing loads of un-exploited rock inland. People were too busy shooting at each other in those days, for serious exploration. The area around Sygaria (sp?) had some awsome Lime.
Could be worth looking into.
Tad hot and humid though...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 28, 2011, 05:13:17 pm
In an effort to get out the logging rut for the winter, just got me a 2nd hand Campbell Bros Bonzer. At 7ft 2 it's probably a bit big for shortboard purists, but should be good for gutless Aberdeen waves.

Hopefully changing out log too. For something a bit heavier but more performance orientated.

All I need now is SOME FUCKING WAVES!

Nice board Chris.  Dave L has a 7'0 Campbell Bonzer and it doesn't feel large at all a really nice fast board.   :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 29, 2011, 09:19:37 am
Cheers. Arrived Friday.

Also got shot of the old log and got a 9ft 3" Symms Pig.

Still no waves at a time I can get on them though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 01, 2011, 03:01:24 pm
There might be a logable wave tomorrow chris. Was looking like there was going to be a nice shoulder high thing coming until 24 hrs ago but now waist high.
If your really keen Gills will be epic this weekend with a 30ft swell hitting on Sunday with just the right winds. Epic wave if you have not been there.
I am once again kid bound as my good lady la de da`s off with her mates shopping for the weekend. If not i would go.
Its been so shit on the east coast this year i feel like giving up at times. In the UK i have only managed 0.4 days per week this year compared to an average of around once a week. Not missed many days there just has not been many days.
What the fuck has happened to all the storms.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 01, 2011, 03:13:53 pm
Yeah, saw that.

Got a wedding in Glasgow this weekend, so N Coast is a no go for me. Would have been nice to christen new bonzer in some decent waves.

Colleague on hols this week, so can't take time off work, and I don't think swell will get into Aberdeen, so no lunchtime option. Tuesday is looking hopeful atm though.

Agree it has been another remarkably shitty autumn.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 01, 2011, 04:54:14 pm
Tuesday looks like a maybe but no low tide during daylight. I am interviewing from 3pm in sheff as well so may have to be Yorkshire am session.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 01, 2011, 05:30:56 pm
im at work :[  its in peterlee so might see you down some of the more southern spots... finish at 2:40 and we have a mutual agreement so i can disappear with the kids assuming its a good swell
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on December 01, 2011, 09:18:39 pm
I know a lot of you won't really give much of a fuck but I just wanted to smugly inform you that over the last 3-4 weeks there's barely been a day without surf over here in North and Mid Wales.... :tease:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2011, 08:59:19 am
Tuesday looks like a maybe but no low tide during daylight.

Crap. Similar here. And not enough to get high tide spots working.

Start to wonder if this is a good idea.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-15984727 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-15984727)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 02, 2011, 11:06:28 am
Tiny here today as expected.

I think this has possibly been posted before on here but i found it again last night and it made me laugh.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/cy4IyKkSDoU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 02, 2011, 11:07:25 am
That didnt work, i am sure someone with better technical ability will embed it properly.

Its worth it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2011, 11:13:44 am
Hitler's Surf Trip Ruined (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjkv29Y5NhE#)

The forum embeds automatically, all you need to do is paste the URL in. It's a gem though, I think FD posted it a while back.

Have you seen this?

The Surfer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_81fMlXOdl8#ws)

Pure genius. And yes, I am aware the van looks very similar to mine.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on December 02, 2011, 11:35:36 am
That second one is genius  :lol:

In the side-bar was this  :o

Garrett McNamara rides 90 Foot Wave! (Full Video) New World Record (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd2jtwviyC8#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2011, 11:44:28 am
That was is insane. Beach break too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 02, 2011, 02:41:14 pm
Brilliant.

Not seen it before "living the dream....in Solihull".

Part of the saunton massive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2011, 03:10:16 pm
Good of Fluid juice to go along with it too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 02, 2011, 04:01:05 pm
especially as 90% of there market is the guy in the vid.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 08, 2011, 12:32:03 pm
Totally free 45 min long taylor steele movie. Just out this week. Last years was top drawer.

http://innersection.tv/video/221 (http://innersection.tv/video/221)

Also the pipe masters starts tonight at around 6pm. Even if your not mad into surf comps this is a must see and there is a makin swell hitting for the next two days. See the pros get flogged and get the best barrels of there lives, all live, no edits.
It is always a pleasure to see just how many times they fall off or dont make the waves, makes me feel more human. Videos normally just show the successful waves and a few wipeouts, the live stuff shows just how hard they try and what they put there bodies through.

http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2011 (http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2011)

Had a few OK sessions this week and hopefully a bit more this weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 12, 2011, 10:44:41 am
Cracking week of surf last week, 4 days in a week is a 2011 record in these parts.
Sat was the icing on the cake, one of the best days of the year solid 4 ft on my favorite reef. Glassy overhead barrels with only 7 of us in. The snow on the ground always scares off the crowds.
Didn't get as many waves as i would have liked as my arms were like noodles after the paddlefest on Friday when we had great waves but the peak was in a rip that would have put the Tweed in spate to shame.
Ripped out a fin on sat in one particularly good wipeout so another board in dock, along with the fin i lost on Wednesday. Two sets of 60 fins ruined.
Anyone know of a fin exchange as i have 3 or 4 incomplete sets of nice fins.

To top it all Pipe pumped and gave me something to watch each evening. I won our fantasy surfer league and the looser now has to catch a north sea wave in board shorts before the 20th Feb 2012. Not a pleasent experience as i have done it once.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 12, 2011, 10:58:05 am
the looser now has to catch a north sea wave in board shorts before the 20th Feb 2012. Not a pleasent experience as i have done it once.

And its only getting colder!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 12, 2011, 11:13:26 am
Saw this today whilst having my breakfast.Very graphic.  :o Hope she mends. From hitting the reef at Teahupoo.
NSFW  :
(http://www.timglasby.com/download/pictures/news_photos/keala.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 12, 2011, 11:41:37 am
I won our fantasy surfer league and the looser now has to catch a north sea wave in board shorts before the 20th Feb 2012. Not a pleasent experience as i have done it once.

Is that Danny off MSW? I'm sure he enjoys it and does it deliberately.

Had a fairly good surf Sat am in spite of brutal red wine hangover. Was halfway into wetty before gut started churning and had to get dressed again and nip to ASDA. First session on new Pig, great fun, lovely glide and easy to turn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 12, 2011, 04:59:08 pm
 ;D  Knew you east siders would get your juice soon enough, I've not hit the brine for near enough 3 weeks now.  Getting the correct window of swell, wind, tide, childcare, not having a flippin cold and work has not been good to me.  Major storm systems coming through at the moment, with equally major swell stats and accompanying onshores.  Finally looks like a suitable window of 18ft swell will arrive on Wednesday morning... :o

Quote
To top it all Pipe pumped and gave me something to watch each evening.
Yep! The pipe event was a brilliant watch, had me glued to the puta, was kind of gutted it was done and dusted in 3 days.  Still the Volcom Pipe event that the locals use to qualify for the Pipe Masters is back in January and if it is anything like 2011 it will be all time too!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 12, 2011, 09:07:16 pm
saturday was one of the best surfs ive had for a very long time.  Long periods, clean long barrels kicking off from a right point break.  Just me and my mate out all day - the east coast hope remains for the christmas hols
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2011, 09:04:44 am
After last night's howling southerlies some nice looking swells in Nigg today. And I have to work :(

And still those Atlantic lows keep rolling through; snow in the hills, swells in the sea!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 13, 2011, 09:16:41 am
Good looking charts if they develop right, hopefully the year can go out with a bang.

I hope we dont get the christmas day dilema of pumping surf v divorce. Its not happened to me yet whilst i have lived by the sea.

Nice little vid on MSW showing some of the waves we can get in the UK. A couple of my local spots in there showing there true colours. I was out there on the days it was filmed. The go pro footage on one of them sends tingles down my spine as its the view you get from the barrel. Seen lots of go pro footage before but never of a veiw i know.

It wont let me embed so heres the link.

http://magicseaweed.com/Butlers-Barrels-Content/3631/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Butlers-Barrels-Content/3631/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 15, 2011, 11:07:51 am
Africa Project Trailer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKSlVatJCC0#)

Interesting looking vid. That wave on Reunion looks amazing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on December 20, 2011, 01:55:09 pm
Hollywood takes on Mavs - NO CONTEST

http://www.mirror.co.uk/celebs/news/2011/12/19/gerard-butler-escapes-death-after-serious-surfing-accident-115875-23647819/ (http://www.mirror.co.uk/celebs/news/2011/12/19/gerard-butler-escapes-death-after-serious-surfing-accident-115875-23647819/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 20, 2011, 05:10:56 pm
had another good 4 days in the north east, this morning was average at best and same with yesterday am. 
Made sure I had as long as I could in today before it disappears for another 4 months
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 20, 2011, 06:46:32 pm
Had a good session sat at a semi secret Scarborough spot. Head high fun point with only three of us out. Missed all the other days but reports said i dint miss much.

Typically looks flat over the next two weeks when i an off work and not very cold for the rock. Bollocks.

Only 90 days till Indo though so something to look forward to.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 27, 2011, 10:28:11 am
Sean Collins, creator and owner of Surfline and then Surfline.com passed away (http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surfline-founder-sean-collins-passes-away-at-59-1_64380) on Christmas Day.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on December 30, 2011, 11:07:48 am
Thinking of heading somewhere to surf in February.  Any ideas chaps?  Me, complete punter on a surfboard so thinking of having lessons, the missus body board only.  So, somewhere pretty mellow methinks.  Morroco?  :shrug:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 30, 2011, 11:45:35 am
Costa Rica?  Not been myself but everyone I know who was on the early stages of the learning curve who's been came back a miles better surfer and loved the place.

Morocco can a nightmare - had lots of mixed reports.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on December 30, 2011, 01:20:45 pm
Costa Rica?  Not been myself but everyone I know who was on the early stages of the learning curve who's been came back a miles better surfer and loved the place.

Morocco can a nightmare - had lots of mixed reports.

....thinking that Costa Rica might be outside our price bracket....  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on December 30, 2011, 02:05:42 pm
el salvador is apparently cheap and excellent.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 30, 2011, 02:27:13 pm
Portugal? Ericeira seems to have a nice variety of breaks? Northern Spain? South of France?

If Costa Rica is a bit out of your price range, I assume Cape Town would be? Which is a pity as it would be a great option.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on December 30, 2011, 03:57:59 pm
Portugal? Ericeira seems to have a nice variety of breaks? Northern Spain? South of France?

If Costa Rica is a bit out of your price range, I assume Cape Town would be? Which is a pity as it would be a great option.

....was hoping for some warmish water being a bit of a softie!  Portugal would be the warmest of that bunch I take it?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 31, 2011, 01:49:19 pm
No Cape Town :)

Somewhere on the Canaries would be warmest, then Morocco, then Portugal.

I've heard nightmare stories about Morocco too, but I guess it could be good if you choose the right surf camp and breaks for your level.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 31, 2011, 04:21:47 pm
 Canaries are probably your best bet but there's a shortage of proper beginners spots (I think.... But I could be corrected)
Title: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 31, 2011, 04:39:42 pm
Sri Lanka is working on the West coast right now.
No idea about surf schools though.
It might be expensive to get to, but it's cheap to be there and may balance out.
Pretty safe, too.
Plenty of fantastic stuff to do besides surfing.
Has quite consistent breaks on reefs, which on small days are great for learning.
If memory serves, most days are small to medium; just head off to the Jungle/Temple/ancient city/mountains when it gets too big.
Wave height climbs as the Western Monsoon builds through end Feb and March.
Hikkaduwa, was a great place (SW about 100k south of Columbo), but not been since the Tsunami.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on January 01, 2012, 01:58:43 pm
Thanks Chris, FD, Matt and Philo.  All good gen - gives me something to go on!   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 01, 2012, 02:50:12 pm
I am planning to go so El Salvador this year at some point, a couple of my mates went on a year surfing adventure and came back saying that they spent most of their time there.  They went to indo/costa rica/ bali and a few of the other south american countries - lucky bastards
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on January 07, 2012, 09:41:16 pm
Hats off to the Irish lads especially those that chose to paddle this monster, respect!  :ohmy:

Enjoy:

Mullaghmore Tow Session (http://vimeo.com/33652914)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on January 08, 2012, 08:05:57 pm
Off maroc in February for a week. Anyone have surf/travel insurance company recommendations?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 10, 2012, 11:59:16 am
Da Hui shhotout from yesterday. Locals only comp that always seems to score.

2012 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout Day1 Highlights (http://vimeo.com/34768560)

It looks so perfect that you almost think "maybe".
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on January 10, 2012, 06:22:55 pm
Nice. GME, been looking in to Cap du l'Homy on your recommendation earlier in this thread. Like it, but wondered what the free camping scene is like round those parts - any knowledge? I'm talking for July August time. Cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on January 10, 2012, 06:45:09 pm
some waist high shite the other week:
(warning, photo may show poor technique)

(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/388604_10150512722479819_514039818_8512464_1926507372_n.jpg)

(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/397189_10150512693034819_514039818_8512405_1547947708_n.jpg)

(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/399611_10150512693124819_514039818_8512406_2135631214_n.jpg)

It looks weird from this angle
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2012, 12:14:59 pm
'cos you have the wrong foot forward :)

Mesmerising and terrifying to watch

BIGGEST TEAHUPOO EVER, SHOT ON THE PHANTOM CAMERA. (http://vimeo.com/34941680)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on January 12, 2012, 05:26:34 pm
That's the right foot forward. Also the correct foot :whistle:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 01, 2012, 07:26:26 pm
http://volcompipepro.com/live/ (http://volcompipepro.com/live/)

On live now and looking gert lush!  :popcorn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 08, 2012, 06:32:53 pm
a spot that works once in a millennium was working over the weekend.  anyone else get out?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 10, 2012, 03:53:54 pm
granticus - you been in this week, all time waves down here!   ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on February 11, 2012, 09:44:38 am
UK conditions look awesome at the moment.... Any way, whilst you guys have been enjoying the cold, the Australian Open of Surfing has kicked off here in Manly
We struggle on  ;D

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6855540109_eae2f767b2_z.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7058/6855543653_2c9c3b5b7a_z.jpg)

The full sets here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickoz08/sets/72157629268223693/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 11, 2012, 09:02:35 pm
granticus - you been in this week, all time waves down here!   ;D

Yarp!  It's been pumping all week, had a particularly fine glassy low-tide session on Thursday, overhead with lulls between sets for easy paddle outs, sun was out and it was about 11 degrees C at midday, it actually felt warm for a while.  Looks like today was the last of the quality for a while.  :wavecry:





Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on February 12, 2012, 05:27:38 am
Day 2 of the comp and the sun has shone down  ;D

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6860588581_bdc6b69f6a_z.jpg)

Full set here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickoz08/sets/72157629280395153/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2012, 01:12:04 pm
Some nice DFBWGS Nick. Great pics too.

PS You got a contribution to this?

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19489.25.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19489.25.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on February 13, 2012, 07:57:01 am
I will do yes - got about 15,000 pics from last year so nee to choose some favs  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on February 14, 2012, 10:47:41 am
Don't think I've seen this video in the thread yet (only posted three weeks ago)  :o

BIGGEST TEAHUPOO EVER (http://vimeo.com/35328567)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 14, 2012, 06:06:48 pm
Can't imagine the wipeouts. Astonishing how fast any splashes or white water are ripped up the face and over the falls.
Ouch
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on February 17, 2012, 08:37:48 am
Latest gallery from day 7 of the comp. Men's heats plus some sk8 and beach stuff :)
AOS day 7 (http://www.nickfletcherphotography.com)
 
It's also here
Surfing Life Magazine (http://www.surfinglife.com.au)  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on February 18, 2012, 04:52:53 pm
one from a couple of weeks ago on a southern swell:

(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/421364_10150610546074819_514039818_8777665_1099002687_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 29, 2012, 11:34:47 am
ooo hoo hoo how good is the surf today!  and forecast to stay good for the new few days. This coupled with my new patagucci suit makes me a happy bunny..   ;D   should this be in the YYFYWGS thread?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 29, 2012, 12:35:04 pm
i saw that you lucky buggers. Naff all on the east.

Had a decent run of surf a couple of weeks ago, that i missed a lot off, but other than that its been a pretty shite winter again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 29, 2012, 12:45:36 pm
You not get anything on Sunday gme? mates who were up at Fraserburgh said it was good, maybe a touch too much west in the swell?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 29, 2012, 01:20:11 pm
A combination of it being small, not feeling well and the wifes birthday made me not bother.
I looked and it was maginal on a shortboard, spots further south might have been better but divorce would have been on the cards if i had buggered off for the day.

10 days to indo so i can wait.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 29, 2012, 03:24:59 pm
You logging pool time to keep fitness up?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on February 29, 2012, 03:27:18 pm
You logging pool time to keep fitness up?
nope he's in the tanning studio drinking Bintang!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 29, 2012, 05:31:17 pm
Pools irritate me. Anyone ever considered doing some long paddle on inland water just for fitness? Or would I look silly?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 29, 2012, 06:10:10 pm
Pools irritate me too, but like climbing walls are a necessary evil.

I sometimes take my longboard out for a paddle on sunny flat days on the coast near our house. I make sure no-one sees me walking down with it though, and wouldn't do it at a beach where anyone would see me, as I would either get daft questions or feel a bit daft dappling out on a flat day. I think on inland waters I would feel silly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 29, 2012, 06:30:47 pm
Get yourself down Sale water park Clm. No one will bat an eyelid, honest.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on February 29, 2012, 10:02:21 pm
Salford quays
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on February 29, 2012, 11:27:51 pm
Pools irritate me too, but like climbing walls are a necessary evil.

I sometimes take my longboard out for a paddle on sunny flat days on the coast near our house. I make sure no-one sees me walking down with it though, and wouldn't do it at a beach where anyone would see me, as I would either get daft questions or feel a bit daft dappling out on a flat day. I think on inland waters I would feel silly.

Not a fan of pool training either, just find it tedious.  Seem to do OK (surf fitness wise) just getting in the water when there's the opportunity and the waves are half decent.  I guess the probability of half decent waves throughout the year is higher here than east side though.  When I do surf, I'm also prone to surfing until I'm beasted and then surfing some more  :bounce: which probably helps with the fitness. 

Mrs Granticus has booked a posh hotel in Newquay for us this weekend to reward me for being a good dad :ang:
Not really sure what to expect as I've always avoided the place but I'm assured that I am 'allowed' to surf in the mornings and should be able to roll out of bed into a wetsuit straight to the beach.  Forecast is looking strong.  I'm assuming things aren't gonna be any worse than Croyde on a busy day but if anyone has any beta (other than 'go somewhere else') would be appreciated. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 01, 2012, 12:13:14 am
Pools irritate me. Anyone ever considered doing some long paddle on inland water just for fitness? Or would I look silly?

Jason Myers used to paddle upstream on the Derwent nr Matlock to get fit.  Wearing a vest and Ron Hills and eating Spam from the tin between reps.
Title: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 01, 2012, 07:14:54 am
Pools irritate me too, but like climbing walls are a necessary evil.

I sometimes take my longboard out for a paddle on sunny flat days on the coast near our house. I make sure no-one sees me walking down with it though, and wouldn't do it at a beach where anyone would see me, as I would either get daft questions or feel a bit daft dappling out on a flat day. I think on inland waters I would feel silly.

Not a fan of pool training either, just find it tedious.  Seem to do OK (surf fitness wise) just getting in the water when there's the opportunity and the waves are half decent.  I guess the probability of half decent waves throughout the year is higher here than east side though.  When I do surf, I'm also prone to surfing until I'm beasted and then surfing some more  :bounce: which probably helps with the fitness. 

Mrs Granticus has booked a posh hotel in Newquay for us this weekend to reward me for being a good dad :ang:
Not really sure what to expect as I've always avoided the place but I'm assured that I am 'allowed' to surf in the mornings and should be able to roll out of bed into a wetsuit straight to the beach.  Forecast is looking strong.  I'm assuming things aren't gonna be any worse than Croyde on a busy day but if anyone has any beta (other than 'go somewhere else') would be appreciated.

I come from Wadebridge.

I wish to make clear.

There is no such thing as a posh hotel in Newquay! ;) ;) :):)

More seriously, did anyone else see the BBC docu on exercise on Tuesday night? Seems to be real evidence that 1 (one) minutes very intense exercise per week, has a very profound effect on overall fitness; with the implication that we may be overdoing it...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2012, 08:58:06 am
I'm assuming things aren't gonna be any worse than Croyde on a busy day but if anyone has any beta (other than 'go somewhere else') would be appreciated.

This time of year it shouldn't be too ridiculous, but expect a higher percentage of "I'm the best surfer on this beach" types. If it is bad, Mawgan Porth and Watergate Bay are only 5 and 10 mins up the road and much less busy.
Title: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 01, 2012, 09:08:46 am
+1 on Watergate.
Although I've no idea how the sand is lying, there is almost always a good peak somewhere along that two miles of beach at most states of tide (except high springs). Worth taking a gander from the cliffs north of the valley, when the tide is high; as there are often breaks cut off from the main beach by the tide, that can be accessed by mountain goat paths from the coast path. Many a blissfully quiet day spent there in my youth...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 01, 2012, 09:20:44 am
Cheers folks.

Let's call it a slightly less down market hotel then. :-[

So basically I'll avoid Fistral unless I feel like tolerating some oversized egos. 

Title: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 01, 2012, 10:02:10 am
And Nigel Semmens dropping in on you. Since he owns the beach(?).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 01, 2012, 02:57:41 pm
granticus - other options not far away as the others have mentioned.  However to be honest this time of year its not that bad even at Fistral.. at a lower state of tide there's numerous peaks from South->North->Little and if you're in early bird it won't be that busy (relatively speaking of course)  If you can surf (which you blatently can) you'll get plenty a waves

good bouldering at the north end below the headland hotel too, PM me if you want some pointers, although looking at the surf forecast you'll be in the sea :-)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 01, 2012, 10:05:45 pm
Cheers Ben.... Leaving the chalk and rock shoes at home! 

Had a lovely surf at Croyde today, not glassy more oily, sod all people in the water and perfect waves.

Looking v.good tommorow and looking at the wind predictions I think I'll probably be surfing round the corner from Fistral on Saturday.
 
And Nigel Semmens dropping in on you. Since he owns the beach(?).
  :wank:  I can imagine that being 'surf city' UK that Newquay attracts some oversized egos and shitty attitudes.  Which is why I've never bothered before.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 02, 2012, 10:28:07 am
you're right, big egos and hype and attitude.. all things that go along with crowds - which aren't too bad this time of year. I've always avoided Fistral for these reasons but to be fair the few times I have surfed it it has been very good, there's no denying when the banks are good its as a good a beachbreak as any in the UK
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on March 02, 2012, 12:35:32 pm
Thinking of heading over to the Gower tomorrow morning for sat and sun, the forecast looks quite good but the winds are onshore. Would anyone like to take a guess whether it will be worth the four hour drive each way?! Usually go to Pembroke but trying to cut down the driving time (Devon and Cornwall are out for the same reason).

Cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 02, 2012, 01:46:55 pm
If MSW is to be believed, I'm not sure about swell being big enough tomorrow, but Sunday i reckon the swell should be big enough to get round to the south facing beaches, where they will be sheltered or the wind will be offshore. Head to Llangenith first to confirm it is actually unsurfable and if it is check out Horton and Oxwich which can have a small but surfable wave. If swell is big enough I have seen surfers in Fall Bay and Mewslade when I've been climbing there, but it's a bit of a walk. Worth having a decent roadmap or OS as I'm not sure these places are marked on all atlases.

(I think these are all in Stormrider's so I'm not stepping on any toes!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on March 03, 2012, 08:41:17 pm
Name that wave (joke).

http://magicseaweed.com/Britains-Coldest-Waves-Content/3706/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Britains-Coldest-Waves-Content/3706/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 03, 2012, 09:56:46 pm
begins with a S i think?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2012, 09:58:07 pm
Stonehaven ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 03, 2012, 10:17:22 pm
haha yeah I was joking, that video which features has gone.  On a side note, I was out this morning for an enjoyable few hours but it was one of those days where you expect it to be gash and if its waist high then its better than you thought
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 04, 2012, 08:15:02 pm
Got back from Newquay this evening.

Oldmanmatt - You were right about there being no posh hotels in Newquay :lol:

Surfed Fizzy on Friday and had a fun session, didn't experience anything untoward other than lots of beginners in the water.

However, the highlight of my weekend was Saturday morning, Fizzy big and blown out by SWerlies.  Snuck around the corner to Towan and surfed harbour lefts to myself for an hour, eventually joined by a Saffa who surfed well (very chatty and friendly) and a not so good bloke who was either intimidated, antisocial or mute.  Had lots of fun waves and loved the hug the wall take offs!  Traded waves with the Saffa until the tide got too full, he said it is normally a break that is teaming with local groms and you'd be lucky to catch a wave but apparently they don't do mornings!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on March 04, 2012, 08:23:25 pm
Name that wave (joke).

http://magicseaweed.com/Britains-Coldest-Waves-Content/3706/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Britains-Coldest-Waves-Content/3706/)
Jesuschrist!!! Those are great waves!!! Pipeline-esque!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 04, 2012, 08:23:31 pm
Mate getting tucked in at fizzy last week. He has just been on a trip to Chili and had crap waves. Came home and got that....
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/419962_10151344680560461_604205460_22694042_2147293573_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 05, 2012, 06:50:45 pm
no gloves already?  is he wearing boots?  Bastards
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on March 22, 2012, 12:46:47 pm
Wave after wave after wave. 10 days in the mentawais nearly to an end, only 1 more day of perfect glassy perfection before we head home.

I saw and rode waves today that were pretty much perfect. If you wrote down what you wanted out of a wave just to have fun on, not to scare you or test your ability, theres plenty of them about, i would have written down what i have surfed for 6 hours solid today.

I am burnt to a frazzle, my shoulders hurt beyond what an gym can do and have ulcerating cuts in my knees and chest but the biggest smile on my face ever.

If you get a chance get your selves to Kandui Resort in the Mentawais, paradise indeed.

Will post pics next week when i am back in blighty.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 22, 2012, 02:48:34 pm
gme - wow.. look forward to the pics (I think). I was about to gloat about my nice lunchtime session today in Cornwall, headhigh and offshore, but you've stolen my thunder somewhat (plus it was backing off and being weird so wasn't that great)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on March 25, 2012, 07:12:34 pm
Hope all you West Coasters got some this weekend. It looked mint on the webcams in Abersoch.  I was in London, very nice and all that but I'm envious of those that made it to the beach.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 25, 2012, 08:15:36 pm
Crikey, webcam pics from this morning look epic!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 26, 2012, 01:01:29 pm
It's not often we get a run of consistent swell combined with offshores that lasts sooooooo long.  Has been excellent down here since mid week last week, stayed with us all weekend and set to last until Wednesday.  All this just before silly season kicks off.  Low-tide sessions have been very solid given the predicted swell heights.  The warm weather and sunshine has just put the icing on a perfect week off surfing. 
Day off surfing today - childcare in the morning - work in the arvo/evening,.
Oh well.. There's always tommorow. 8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on March 26, 2012, 06:13:27 pm
Low-tide sessions have been very solid given the predicted swell heights.

At Croyde on Saturday. Mid morning on the dropping tide was fun- 3ft or so. Put the tent up and headed back just after low only to received a sound thrashing on the paddle out- doubled in size. Did one to Puts before I broke something.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on March 26, 2012, 07:27:01 pm
christ, I'm so jealous!  >:( 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 27, 2012, 10:23:48 pm
Low-tide sessions have been very solid given the predicted swell heights.
At Croyde on Saturday. Mid morning on the dropping tide was fun- 3ft or so. Put the tent up and headed back just after low only to received a sound thrashing on the paddle out- doubled in size. Did one to Puts before I broke something.

Low-tide Croyde strikes again  :chair:  surprising how much a good low tide can magnify the swell.

Snapped a fin and ripped a plug out on the reef this morning.  Anyone replaced a plug before?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on March 29, 2012, 01:06:11 pm
You're not wrong Falling Down, cheers for that, it's been fucking mint over here, those days where you literally wouldn't want to be anywhere else in the world, pure heaven and well worth enduring the N.Wales winter for.

Managed to get proper sunburnt at The Mouth and the fun just kept rolling in, pretty quiet too, mainly locals.

Last sesh was yesterday, 4 hours of fun followed by a pint of Dizzy Blond in the sunshine, happy days!  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 29, 2012, 03:33:53 pm
 :'( Aaargggghhh.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on March 29, 2012, 03:53:17 pm
Where were you Johnny B?!

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 29, 2012, 04:20:32 pm
Bah, you bastards. I need to get my priorities straight!

(http://hwimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/259452.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on March 29, 2012, 06:35:55 pm
Cmon johnny, you'd only be dipping your nose and going arse over tit anyway.  ;)
Nice day for it though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on March 29, 2012, 08:46:25 pm
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm... Looks very inviting that..

Here's Croyde doing what it was doing all week.

1ft today.. Bye bye 10 days of sun and swell  :no:

(http://hwimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/259758.jpg)

Looks like there may be a pulse next week for a day..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 03, 2012, 09:35:09 am
Footage from the smaller day the other weekend; some excellent rogerings in the first 30s:
Croyde Surf England 25th March 2012 Filmed with Kodak Playsport ZX3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pkys2vPbG9o#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 03, 2012, 10:09:11 am
looks like theres loads of plebs in the water, if you made a barrel in the first minute half of those people wouldnt be able to duck dive you
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 03, 2012, 10:27:57 am
Thank fuck we rarely get a rabble like that in the water, I don't think I could cope.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 03, 2012, 10:55:01 am
Aye same, though at a not so secret over popular secret pier right hander, you get 15 in the water and it often turns surfing into a slalom course
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 03, 2012, 07:32:12 pm
Not my footage, incidentally.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on April 03, 2012, 08:20:15 pm
It's like a guide to taking off ate and getting nailed duckdiving
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 03, 2012, 10:25:55 pm
25th March was a Sunday, weekend warriors in effect! There are better days and times to surf at Croyde... 

http://live.ripcurl.com/?aid=2043 (http://live.ripcurl.com/?aid=2043)

 :popcorn:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 05, 2012, 09:24:11 am
First after work session of the year last night. Bit messy with crosswind at first but wind dropped and it cleaned up and was actually getting quite good just before it got dark.

Followed up with a couple of hours bouldering session at the wall for a few hours, so skin and shoulders are a bit tattered!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on April 05, 2012, 02:37:24 pm
classic style, mega  :bow:

http://magicseaweed.com/video/votd.php (http://magicseaweed.com/video/votd.php)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on April 05, 2012, 05:12:34 pm
I know f all about surfing, but that is a properly amazing song, thanks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 05, 2012, 06:20:07 pm
bellissimo!!!
loved the long distance shooting, puts everything in the right perspective, with the surfers being far off, in the middle of a dangerous place!!!
really beautiful, so distant from the usual stuff, no hollering and whistling crowds, no media, no helicopters, really really just surfing. 
fantastic.
I'll think about it during the weekend when I'll get scared sh**less by four foot mushy Mediterran waves after one year and half without surfing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on April 06, 2012, 09:44:50 pm
You're all right of course but I was actually meant to post this vid of Mr Irons.....stylin, classic  :clap2:


http://magicseaweed.com/video/votd.php?id=347 (http://magicseaweed.com/video/votd.php?id=347)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on April 07, 2012, 12:24:46 pm
Kelly Slater Hail Mary Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach 2012 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJRml1Tdvoc#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on April 07, 2012, 01:13:39 pm
I was there! I was there! I was there!  8)

Slater still only finished second on the day which should tell you how well Mick Fanning was going.

First time I've actually been to the final at Bells since I was about 14 (Mark Richards won his first of four IIRC) ... which was nice.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 08, 2012, 10:13:42 am
dammit dammit dammit, sunny at the sea, with clean lines rolling in, and I am at home.
I knew I had to go yesterday and sleep there! I knew it. punter.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 09, 2012, 08:58:30 am
First session on new (to me!) Bonzer on Sat moring at Nigg Bay. Immediate connection with the board, so much fun to ride! Only half a dozen in (including gme and FD's acquaintances Paul and Sarah). Can't wait to get in the water with it again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 09, 2012, 10:17:28 am
Cool story

http://www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk/2012/04/09/hawaiian-royals-surf-bridlington-in-1890/ (http://www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk/2012/04/09/hawaiian-royals-surf-bridlington-in-1890/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 09, 2012, 05:10:35 pm
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5271/7061130727_124a5987da.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/7061130727/)
trieste (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/7061130727/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

this is what I missed. idiot.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 09, 2012, 08:51:05 pm
Looks lush. Great pic too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 11, 2012, 11:59:56 am
Amazing paddle-in surfing at Peahi (Jaws)

http://magicseaweed.com/The-Isle:-Padding-Peahi-Content/3739/ (http://magicseaweed.com/The-Isle:-Padding-Peahi-Content/3739/)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on April 12, 2012, 10:25:14 am
Sent shivers down me spine that  :w00t:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 12, 2012, 02:12:34 pm
fantastic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 20, 2012, 01:08:37 pm
"Uncommon Ideals" great little film that won an award in the London Film Festival.


<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/28143591" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>

Its now up for a bigger award and needs some votes.

http://vimeo.com/awards/vote/actionsports (http://vimeo.com/awards/vote/actionsports)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on April 20, 2012, 04:44:55 pm
Welllll, seemd the obvious place to put this so here goes.  Me and an old mate have just self published a book on Amazon.  Said novel has a fairly high surfing content, (even though I know jack-shit so feel free to take the piss), topped off with some sex, violence and general thuggery.  Just so it's not a complete waste of time if you buy it and don't like it, 10% of all proceeds go to the Alzheimer's Society:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Break-Cover-ebook/dp/B007VP5Y4O/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1334929023&sr=1-3 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Break-Cover-ebook/dp/B007VP5Y4O/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1334929023&sr=1-3)

Available for Kindle, iPad and download to your 'puter.  Perfect for coffee break.....   :coffee:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on April 20, 2012, 10:10:09 pm
Sorry, I would only buy it if the charity doesn't get 10%
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy popp on April 21, 2012, 09:39:17 am
Why?
Title: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 21, 2012, 10:01:22 am
Why?

He can't remember...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on April 21, 2012, 08:55:38 pm
Why?

He can't remember...
very good.

Andy, have you read the economics/we're all doomed thread? Philo's posts on there should enlighten you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy popp on April 22, 2012, 06:16:51 am
Why?

He can't remember...
very good.

Andy, have you read the economics/we're all doomed thread? Philo's posts on there should enlighten you.

Indeed I have. I was interested in hearing an explanation (presumably charity reduces us to infantile dependency. Or something)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on April 22, 2012, 03:09:02 pm
YYFY I can still surf!!!  :dance1:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on April 24, 2012, 01:57:56 pm
I hate msw... ever go on when your on a downer, just to look with green eyes at some cunty bastards having the time of their lifes..  grrr why am I stuck on this god foresaken, grim, damp, grey shit hole of an island, run by cunts for cunts to shit on more cunts... summits fookin no reet

(http://hwimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/139567.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on April 24, 2012, 02:02:23 pm
Wondering I know quite a few surfers on here are well travelled.... if anyone has ever been to this Kandui Resort?

http://www.mentawaiislands.com/kandui/ (http://www.mentawaiislands.com/kandui/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2012, 03:00:20 pm
Isn't that where gme was last month?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2012, 04:12:08 pm
Are you a climber who surfs or a surfer who climbs?

Where is your eye drawn to?





























(http://hwimages.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/fullWidth/262445.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 24, 2012, 04:31:42 pm
Blown highlights. Back around.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 24, 2012, 04:42:51 pm
 :boohoo:
Isn't that where gme was last month?

Yes, GME was there last month.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on April 24, 2012, 06:32:15 pm
I went straight for the off width.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 24, 2012, 10:20:19 pm
Don't know why I tapped the little violin man by accident on my ipad but it does seem fitting for the rest of us who were sat here at home....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: robertostallioni on April 24, 2012, 10:46:17 pm
(http://thumbsnap.com/s/THv3lyKt.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 24, 2012, 11:10:28 pm
 :lol: just about sums me up at the moment!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2012, 09:12:10 am
Blown highlights. Back around.

Yawn. Not why I posted it.

It's Llandudno near Cape Town btw. The right facing slab at the far left has some bolted routes, but the bolts were pretty shocking when I did them 17 years ago. Fun bouldering  / highballing though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 25, 2012, 09:15:34 am
Blown highlights. Back around.

Yawn. Not why I posted it.


That just shows JB looked at it first with a photographers eye rather than the options you posited.  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 25, 2012, 09:17:47 am
What he said, had enough coffee yet?

I only drove past, but I must admit it looked a damn sight more interesting than Parisella's.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on April 25, 2012, 09:39:16 am
Meh. No pier.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2012, 10:10:25 am
About recent shark attack fatality in SA

http://www.zigzag.co.za/features/exclusives/9011/Ocearch-and-the-Kogel-Baai-attack---Searching-for-answers,-finding-few (http://www.zigzag.co.za/features/exclusives/9011/Ocearch-and-the-Kogel-Baai-attack---Searching-for-answers,-finding-few)

I blame chummer too :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 29, 2012, 10:33:17 am
"Code Red" Full Movie - Surfing Goes Huge At Teahupoo Tahiti (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIBgWI_BTyM#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on April 30, 2012, 09:24:12 am
gobsmacking  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 28, 2012, 04:22:40 pm
Isn't there a break called Jaws....

(http://static.environmentalgraffiti.com/sites/default/files/images/http-inlinethumb51.webshots.com-45618-2053121030105101600S600x600Q85.jpg)

Quote
When Fergal Smith dropped in on a monster barrel two miles off the coast of Perth in Western Australia, he little realised he was also dropping in on a monster of another kind. For as he powered down the face of the 20-plus-foot wave, lurking there just a few feet from him was a 500-pound Great White Shark. Smith didnt even realise how close he had come to an encounter with one of the oceans deadliest predators.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 28, 2012, 11:42:05 pm
To be honest looks like it could just as easily be a dolphin. And considerably less than 500 lbs
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 01, 2012, 12:58:28 pm
I was wondering what people think of the charts for the next 5 days, particularily for the llyn/porth neigwl. Ignoring magicseaweed there looks like a couple of small swells to come through tom and maybe tues.  Ive had enough of getting it wrong when its touch and go,  :devangel: especially with the cost of fuel to get down. Any help greatly appreciated.
Gonig to have to find somewhere to hide as well I guess to escape the range rover crew being a bank hol. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 01, 2012, 01:29:57 pm
I'm no local expert but have been doing the same - family are in Abersoch over the weekend. Overall picture on the met charts looks good - big depressions out in the atlantic whilst high pressure gives gentle offshores over uk. Should be a small consistent swell, question is how small, and there is always the chance of the wind changing and it disappearing in local chop.

Looks pretty decent today: http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/surfreport.htm (http://www.westcoastsurf.co.uk/surfreport.htm)
If we get something like that tomorrow it'll be worth the drive for me. See you in the water...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 01, 2012, 01:46:17 pm
I think this swell is sneaking under the MSW model radar because it's not that big but has a big olde period. My prediction is 4ft and offshore for tomorrow (in the SW).  Go..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 01, 2012, 02:13:27 pm
Yes, that was my thoughts really, with msw not predicting anything it put doubts in my mind. Think im going for it, should be epic with the long evenings.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 01, 2012, 02:33:21 pm
Seems like there's a pretty big hole in the MSW model for the irish sea, plenty of times it just misses a decent swell. The local report above doesn't even bother linking to it any more...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 01, 2012, 02:41:11 pm
Find the same for our area of N Sea as well. it's a computer model and while it's Ok for giving the bigger picture it doesn't account for local variances.

You sacking off Scotland trip then Probes?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 01, 2012, 02:52:34 pm
Technology eh? Does anyone remember ringing the answer machines at surf shops for a recorded local forecast... never failed.

Yeah unfortunately Chris, took a lob in the week and gave my arm a crack, so bouldering is off for a bit, but still super psyched to do one though, got the guide ordered... so Im committed now  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 01, 2012, 02:55:44 pm
I remember those, 30p per minute or so and especially PJ on the Gower used to drag it out so he got his money worth!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 01, 2012, 03:24:37 pm
Ah Pjs, they sold me a suit once, gave it a load of hype, it promptly fell to bits in about 3 months.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 01, 2012, 04:21:26 pm
2ft and clean here this afternoon, bit bigger tommorow with a brisk offshore, onshores set to swing in on Sunday....

Not sure how much swell will get through to N Wales though.. best day will be tommorow though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 01, 2012, 04:33:58 pm
Nice, where are you Granticus?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 01, 2012, 04:54:32 pm
If he's gone for the day, I think it's North Devon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 01, 2012, 06:48:29 pm
I'm driving down tonight. Six days down around sennen.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 02, 2012, 07:36:04 pm
Well that was mint. Probably a bit small for you heroes but had one of my best rides ever. Fingers crossed it holds all weekend...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 03, 2012, 05:32:42 pm
twas all time here yesterday, two sessions fitted around family stuff.  Onshore today but looks like there might a be a bit left tomorrow with the wind going NE

PJ's line - you just needed to know his 'phrase' at the beginning, off the lip, in the tube, etc.  he varied it so that those in the know could get a inkling of what it was like without having to pay  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2012, 09:32:45 pm
Glad west coasters are scoring hope we will get some this coming week!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 03, 2012, 10:12:28 pm
Awful today mind; pissing rain and force 5 easterlies. Fingers crossed for the morning...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 04, 2012, 08:47:52 am
Nigg bay looked good this morning, as I drove past on the way to the office. Or fucking office as I like to call it.

Hopefully tonight. And tomorrow dawnie and tomorrow night if my arms can take it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 04, 2012, 11:00:25 am
Decent again this morning, glassy, if a tad small. Starting to feel like I've had my money's worth from that board Chris!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 04, 2012, 11:06:40 am
Good man! It does well in a surprising variety of waves once you get it dialled.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 04, 2012, 11:21:49 am
Yeah its great, you can catch pretty much anything the logmen can, though I've struggled a bit on steeper waves. Finally spending more time on the green than in the foam this weekend though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 04, 2012, 11:56:20 am
Nice. I never really took it out on anything majorly hollow or steep, but rode it in shoulder / head high beach breaks on N Uist and had some great surfs on the reefy point at Banff.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 05, 2012, 08:49:21 am
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/543263_10151792378480721_525240720_24581382_1926137162_n.jpg)
Gwenvor, saturday morning.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 05, 2012, 08:53:37 am
...and again. I went left.
(http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/540364_10151792380005721_525240720_24581385_1607107213_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Control freak on June 06, 2012, 05:16:54 am
After a monster storm off the coast - this was the result in manly. A 12 foot swell and 20 foot waves

Big Wednesday (http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/article.aspx?articleId=10539&cateId=113&display=0&title=Big%20Wednesday%20-%20June%206,%202012)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 06, 2012, 08:31:44 am
clm - how good was Saturday eh. Surfed Gwithian and then Porthtowan in the evening which was just amazing as the crowds dropped and it glassed off. Bet Gwenvor was all time

if you're still down this way I reckon Porthmeor might be on today
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 06, 2012, 02:24:16 pm
Nice, where are you Granticus?

North Devon :wave: 

Nice to have waves after the most epic flat spell I can remember.  Getting pysched for Friday looking at the cheeky little low that is approaching.  Day off work, current swell prediction and wind direction is very favourable for somewhere nice that no one goes to or knows about.
Too remote, too fickle, too secret for folk to bother.. :bounce: 
Fingers crossed it all comes good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 06, 2012, 03:18:02 pm
After an epic (traffic) drive down on sat, caught neigal just at on high tide, perfect for getting it on the turn. About 3 foot, fairly clean, quality dusk session. Need to get back in practice, after 4 hours I was totally ended  :chair:. Well worth the trip though. Did you get in on sat Jonny Brown?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 06, 2012, 05:13:46 pm
Getting pysched for Friday looking at the cheeky little low that is approaching.  Day off work, current swell prediction and wind direction is very favourable for somewhere nice that no one goes to or knows about.

must be a well kept secret if it works on a westerly in N. Devon!  i reckon tomorrow is going to be the better day wind wise..

Granticus - talking of North Devon.. had a session at Hartland a couple of weeks back, thought all the problems on the Clinical Edge block were pretty soft for 7B, non ?  (i.e. I got up two of them.. assuming I was doing them right)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 06, 2012, 06:09:46 pm
Getting pysched for Friday looking at the cheeky little low that is approaching.  Day off work, current swell prediction and wind direction is very favourable for somewhere nice that no one goes to or knows about.

must be a well kept secret if it works on a westerly in N. Devon!  i reckon tomorrow is going to be the better day wind wise..

Granticus - talking of North Devon.. had a session at Hartland a couple of weeks back, thought all the problems on the Clinical Edge block were pretty soft for 7B, non ?  (i.e. I got up two of them.. assuming I was doing them right)
  A very well kept secret and might not even be in N.Devon or is it???!!

If you did Clinical Edge, I'd say that was pretty soft if you get your feet sorted. I'm also presuming you did Me Julie (named after my wife!) which (as is not mentioned in Dave Westlife's guide) is a proper SIT START (ie. no crouching, squating, pushing of the floor with the other hand etc...) You pull off your bum on side pulls just right of CE, with feet on poor smears...  It's not so soft for the grade if done properly.  If you did it this way and found it soft, I am impressed :bow:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 07, 2012, 09:57:54 am
If you did Clinical Edge, I'd say that was pretty soft if you get your feet sorted. I'm also presuming you did Me Julie (named after my wife!) which (as is not mentioned in Dave Westlife's guide) is a proper SIT START (ie. no crouching, squating, pushing of the floor with the other hand etc...) You pull off your bum on side pulls just right of CE, with feet on poor smears...  It's not so soft for the grade if done properly.  If you did it this way and found it soft, I am impressed :bow:
to be honest i think i did CE right and that took me 10-15 goes so felt about right for 7a ish. The other one I did was Egg Nishna but think i probably did it wrong. Started LH sidepull, RH big flatty, RH up to small crimp, then LH to jug then top

couldn't do Me Julie ;)  for this I was starting  with the above LH sidepull for the RH to start and then another sidepull for LH about 1.5ft in from CE arete ?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2012, 07:52:27 pm
If you did Clinical Edge, I'd say that was pretty soft if you get your feet sorted. I'm also presuming you did Me Julie (named after my wife!) which (as is not mentioned in Dave Westlife's guide) is a proper SIT START (ie. no crouching, squating, pushing of the floor with the other hand etc...) You pull off your bum on side pulls just right of CE, with feet on poor smears...  It's not so soft for the grade if done properly.  If you did it this way and found it soft, I am impressed :bow:
to be honest i think i did CE right and that took me 10-15 goes so felt about right for 7a ish. The other one I did was Egg Nishna but think i probably did it wrong. Started LH sidepull, RH big flatty, RH up to small crimp, then LH to jug then top

couldn't do Me Julie ;)  for this I was starting  with the above LH sidepull for the RH to start and then another sidepull for LH about 1.5ft in from CE arete ?

I reckon 7a+ for Clinical Edge might be a fair grade, it does have one pretty hard move which req
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 07, 2012, 08:13:04 pm
Don't know what happened there try again.........
If you did Clinical Edge, I'd say that was pretty soft if you get your feet sorted. I'm also presuming you did Me Julie (named after my wife!) which (as is not mentioned in Dave Westlife's guide) is a proper SIT START (ie. no crouching, squating, pushing of the floor with the other hand etc...) You pull off your bum on side pulls just right of CE, with feet on poor smears...  It's not so soft for the grade if done properly.  If you did it this way and found it soft, I am impressed :bow:
to be honest i think i did CE right and that took me 10-15 goes so felt about right for 7a ish. The other one I did was Egg Nishna but think i probably did it wrong. Started LH sidepull, RH big flatty, RH up to small crimp, then LH to jug then top

couldn't do Me Julie ;)  for this I was starting  with the above LH sidepull for the RH to start and then another sidepull for LH about 1.5ft in from CE arete ?

I reckon 7a+ for Clinical Edge might be a fair grade, it does have one pretty hard move which requires that extra bit of commitment but the rest of the moves are OK..   

As for Egg Nishna (according to Simon Young this is Australian for air conditioner!) your description sounds like something else - this problem is further right on the block and is a sitter..

Me Julie is a tough nut to crack :-[   Sit start just right of Clinical Edge there is an obvious line of slightly angled side pulls one above the other, utilise these with both hands, left foot pasted on smear near the arete, right on more smeary nothingness.  Once established on the higher side pull you make a burly move out right to a sloper with an edge above it, the edge is better but harder to reach (bump again or go direct), then left hand goes up into an obvious undercutty sidepull, the rest is a doddle.  The sequence of hands on the side pulls seems to be key but different sequences work for different people.  IMHO it's harder than CE and is soft 7b.

 :offtopic: sorry folks...  Tonight I'll be mostly watching http://www.volcomfijipro.com/ (http://www.volcomfijipro.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 08, 2012, 08:28:05 am
ok lets go with 7a+ for CE, it sounds like I wasn't climbing EggNishna at all (was doing a sitter but obviously not far enough R) and was doing MeJulie right but couldn't do the burly move out R from the higher sidepull.. so soft 7b sounds right   :strongbench:

sorry yes  :offtopic:   back on topic, more epic waves yesterday, kegs galore although i never made it out of one.

Here's a pic from PT on Saturday, looks positively tropical

http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=265931&browseSession=8d1684a8610edbe994e5a5cfcd6ccab4 (http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=265931&browseSession=8d1684a8610edbe994e5a5cfcd6ccab4)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 08, 2012, 08:57:23 am
I stayed up until 1am to watch the Fiji pro only for them to cancel after two heats. It was massive and a bit bumpy but they should have kept it running. Cleaned up later so i guess they made a wrong decision.

Dont know how to embed a picture from facebook but this is what they missed later.

http://www.connect.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150878056992058&set=a.10150102976342058.276930.81269622057&type=1&ref=nf (http://www.connect.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150878056992058&set=a.10150102976342058.276930.81269622057&type=1&ref=nf)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 09, 2012, 10:43:20 pm
I stayed up until 1am to watch the Fiji pro only for them to cancel after two heats. It was massive and a bit bumpy but they should have kept it running. Cleaned up later so i guess they made a wrong decision.

Dont know how to embed a picture from facebook but this is what they missed later.

http://www.connect.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150878056992058&set=a.10150102976342058.276930.81269622057&type=1&ref=nf (http://www.connect.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150878056992058&set=a.10150102976342058.276930.81269622057&type=1&ref=nf)
Did the same - stayed up for 2 heats... went to bed and missed this  :jaw: http://www.volcomfijipro.com/video/day-3-highlights-volcom-fiji-pro-2012/ (http://www.volcomfijipro.com/video/day-3-highlights-volcom-fiji-pro-2012/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on June 10, 2012, 12:39:00 pm
Wow... Wow wow.  Gobsmacking
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: clm on June 10, 2012, 01:00:38 pm
Awesome. Check someone / thing going over the falls at 1.40 odd. Hopefully a bit if weed. Otherwise someone got a hell of a ride.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 10, 2012, 06:50:13 pm
oh my god  (note no use of the acronym OMG..), palm sweating..  it's like reading about Honnolds solo exploits
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 14, 2012, 03:27:57 pm
Right on cue..  A similar storm system to this time last week arrives on the same day, it seems the jet stream is favourable for surfing SW sheltered spots this year.   :great:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on June 14, 2012, 03:56:08 pm
Right on cue..  A similar storm system to this time last week arrives on the same day, it seems the jet stream is favourable for surfing SW sheltered spots this year.   :great:

Yeah man  :bounce: 

im banking too on some sheltered spots this weekend, llyn pen might just be kicking off 2
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 14, 2012, 05:41:54 pm
and the advantage of mid-summer..   got out the water at 1015pm last night!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on June 17, 2012, 11:21:14 am
Hope some of you managed to get over this week, such an unusually good June so far..we had this during the week for a few days:


http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/543201_10151043886565039_2054395226_n.jpg (http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/543201_10151043886565039_2054395226_n.jpg)

just all day peeling fun fun and more fun in the sunshine, nose burnt, shoulders tired...happy boy..

Then the storm rolled in and on Saturday the usual manic texts, calls, bouy and weather station checks (thank fuck for the late tide and long day light hours) eventually led us to clean head high off shore at a certain N.Lleyn spot (bailed on mid Wales after reports that it was a bit blown out)  with nobody else in, then chest to shoulder at the same place yesterday morning still with nobody else in...crazy! Ode to the popular trendy cat walk spots...
My shoulders and back are now totally fucked and the rat was well and truly fed although there's still this at the mouth today....

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150967105669295&set=a.203081784294.128004.201563109294&type=1 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150967105669295&set=a.203081784294.128004.201563109294&type=1)

but I really should do some work... :P

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: aLICErOBERTSfANkLUB on June 19, 2012, 10:28:15 pm
<wrong thread>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on June 23, 2012, 05:07:45 pm
Anyone used/owns one of these?


http://store.magicseaweed.com/product.php?productId=5548 (http://store.magicseaweed.com/product.php?productId=5548)

It's a Rusty 'Dwart' 5'10"

I'm 5'6", 60-65 kg going from a 6'4" fish, progressive beginner/ intermediate surfer based in N.Wales.

And please lets not start a custom V's off the peg argument, when I know exactly what I want (with a little soul) I'll pay somebody to make it.


Cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 24, 2012, 11:15:30 pm
Anyone used/owns one of these?


http://store.magicseaweed.com/product.php?productId=5548 (http://store.magicseaweed.com/product.php?productId=5548)

It's a Rusty 'Dwart' 5'10"

I'm 5'6", 60-65 kg going from a 6'4" fish, progressive beginner/ intermediate surfer based in N.Wales.

And please lets not start a custom V's off the peg argument, when I know exactly what I want (with a little soul) I'll pay somebody to make it.


Cheers

I own a custom made (Bunty) copy version of one of these.  It's 5''8 x 20.5'' x 2 5/8''.  I'm 5'10'' and 70kgs.  Would say that 5''10 is gonna have way too much volume for a man of your stature.  I really like the board though, it goes very well in small surf and less powerful surf which is exactly why I bought one...  twas a lot cheaper than the Rusty Dwart too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 25, 2012, 11:07:03 am
When there is any surf (not this year it would seem) my go to board for beachbreak, slower reefs is a 5`9" x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2 Merrick Dumpster diver. Possibly the best board i have ever ridden.
 
I never thought i would ride such a short board as i am 6` 1" and 80Kg but out of all my boards its the easiest to paddle and catch waves on. Its all to do with the volume which is becoming more of a common measure to see written on boards.

Still ride 6`4" - 6` 6" round pins on the proper waves but looking to try something different here as well this autumn along the lines of a "semi pro 12" ( but not a 600 plus one) or a Forth "Teardrop". I want to be able to ride a shorter board on the good days, to stop me racing away from the barrel as happens on longer boards,but still get into the waves early.

So i guess i am very much a fan of the shorter, wider, fatter revolution (foam is your friend).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 25, 2012, 11:11:50 am
And whilst i am on here to amuse us through the neverending flat spell.

http://player.vimeo.com/video/44253174 (http://player.vimeo.com/video/44253174)

I want this in my garden please santa.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on June 25, 2012, 03:55:26 pm
That's for the advice gme and grantis, I also wonder whether (despite my low abitilty and weak Welsh waves) I may have gone a bit big...this 5'10 Dwart has the same volume as my 6'3 fish. Will have a look at the Bunty What's your ability level Grantis?

However, I had a quick blast on my mates (same size, etc) yesterday in Cariad and it felt immediately ridable, I couldn't believe it, nice and skatey which I think suits me as I used to skateboard a lot and catches waves just as easily as my 6'3 and feels great under foot, so I guess you're right gme about it being all about the volume.

Having just badly torn a finger tendon I have already 'won' one of these on eBay so I'm committed to that size now but I agree that I could probably go smaller. My thinking now though is that it will be an ideal transitional board to use while I get used to going smaller (as it's the same volume that I'm riding now) and learning to move the board around more. I envisage that I'll probably want to trade it in for a smaller one later in the year, and/or getting something with slightly less volume of a similar size like the Quiver 'Hart Attack', Forth 'Speedfish', etc or even get one of these copied by a shaper for my first custom  ;D

But yes, I think I'm going to have a lot of fun on this in the type of waves that we mostly have over here, feels like a great little board and I'm also hoping it will hold well in clean head high where my fish feels a bit clumsy although I worry it may be a bit corky.

Sweet little vid there gme, nice car!....But we've had a good spell of surf over this way, especially for May/June, and more is forecast to come this evening, so I hope you get your share, where are you based?

I've gotta add that I'm fucking loving surfing and all the keeness over the winter and days in less that ideal surf are starting to pay off...so much to learn...it can only get even more fun!  :2thumbsup:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 25, 2012, 04:24:05 pm
The board you have now will be much more manoverable than your old board despite the similarity in volume. The tail shape will allow you to tighten up your turns in comparison to a fish, especially if its a "retro" fish shape that i think are about the worst shaped board for a beginner/ intermediate to surf on despite what most people say. We were all sold a kipper by watching the likes of Rasta surfing amazing on old fish shapes; they forgot to mention that these pros could surf on a barn door better than we can, have all the time in the world and are paid to be different. You don't see many climbers going out in the hills with nailed boots, hemp rope and a pocket of pebbles just to see what it was like, but i bet if Johnny started doing it it would become fashionable.

I must profess as to being a retro board hater, but i have ridden them, and fish shapes with a wide tail are about the hardest board to ride that there is, not to catch waves with but to ride, that's why we changed to thrusters. I know people who got really into them a few years back and you could visibly see there surfing deteriorate, all have changed back to normal shortboards now.

The new wave of boards all try to keep a short board template through the last third of the board but widen up the front, this makes it easier to paddle into our generally sloppy waves but still keeps the board lose and responsive in the tail, which is where everything happens. They also all tend to have much less nose rocker than the old toothpicks that people used to ride, again making them more suitable for us punters and UK slop.

I too am only an intermediate surfer so i am not claiming to know that much, but have ridden a fair few boards and have a decent understanding of how they work.

I live up in the darkest NE, great reefs, great waves, few crowds (other than one or two spots) but unfortunately not a lot of swell.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on June 25, 2012, 08:24:06 pm
Great stuff gme, really helpful knowledge and advice thanks.

My fish isn't a retro shape and I can totally see where you're coming from with those shapes.
It's a 7s superfish which I went to from my 7'3 mini mal. Just some back ground as any further advice is much appreciated:

I have learnt relatively quickly on this (7s super fish) board and do love it although it feels a little big and slow on the turns sometimes (it is super fast down the line however). I am getting the Dwart to see where that can take my surfing as I want to move around more on the wave and I think my skateboarding has influenced this a great deal. This is only my second year of proper surfing (as opposed to the perpetually shit punter once in a blue moon surfer) and I manage to get out a few times a week (when there's waves of course) with only a few of two week flat spells to contend with since last Autumn as there's often something to surf here whether it be local wind chop or if we're lucky mid-long range swell. Gotta love this La Nina weather..
Ability wise I'm just starting to do do cutbacks, albeit slow ones, and am able to ride up and down the face of the wave reasonably well. Funnily enough the best, snappiest cutback I've done so far was on the second wave I got on me mates Dwart! Both the Dwart and the 7s are around 36litres in volume.

Think I've made the right choice bearing in mind I'll trade the Dwart for a smaller/ less voluminous one when I get used to this..







Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on June 25, 2012, 08:31:37 pm
Google map of campsites near Biarritz including prices for the entire summer season:
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=205368080205845803067.0004a0a32672cf4f5eddd&msa=0 (http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=205368080205845803067.0004a0a32672cf4f5eddd&msa=0)

From this magicseaguess thread:
http://community.magicseaweed.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=17507 (http://community.magicseaweed.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=17507)

Tres bon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on June 26, 2012, 10:53:15 pm
Quote
What's your ability level Grantis?
   :ninja:  Never really considered what level I am, i can make a surfboard go where I want it to, I can hack out a decent turn now and then, I can ride steeper more powerful waves to a fair size..... but then again I can also fall off, i can do crap turns and I can get pile drived into the sand at will.. 

GME has said it all really with regards to shape and volume.  Like you say you can always start reducing the volume down when you start getting used to shorter boards.  I wish I was rich enough to have a massive quiver/lots of choice; I have to make do with what I have..  I generally get by with 2 boards.  When the waves have some grunt I go to my 6''2 Firewire Flexfire (rounded pin) (not much volume in this but firewires do float well) and if they're sloppy I turn to the short fat board.  I learnt on a 7''6 bonzer that was given to me, I dropped down to a 6''8 thruster with lots of volume when I wanted to go shorter and then to boards in the 6''4 to 6''2 range.

More importantly it's great that you're loving it and that there is more swell headed our way!!  Super glassy in NDevon tommorow night! 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Drew on June 26, 2012, 11:22:22 pm
A friend found this after the QUICKSILVER Welsh National Surf Comp 2012. (http://distilleryimage0.instagram.com/2af7def0bf2011e1be6a12313820455d_7.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on June 27, 2012, 11:43:53 pm
See the MSW forum for an ongoing discussion on the above.

Nice one granticus, really useful to hear what and how others have got on progressing with boards. Enjoy the swell, we had a nice pulse at the Mouth this afternoon, got a couple of those waves that just make you smile from ear to ear, it just keeps getting better!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on June 27, 2012, 11:45:28 pm
Board is due to arrive in time for swell on saturday, will let you both know how I get on with it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on June 28, 2012, 10:03:57 am
our local last night
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/391461_490198720994291_770531538_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 28, 2012, 09:41:26 pm
Nice. Does she have a brother called Bertie?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Baron on June 29, 2012, 07:28:04 am
Ferry booked end of July Newhaven to Dieppe with these guys http://ldlines.co.uk/ (http://ldlines.co.uk/), followed by 3 weeks in SW France. Psyched.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on July 09, 2012, 09:20:45 pm
Just thought I'd let you know how I got on with me new 5'10" Rusty Dwart....first session out on it and I had the best session of the year so far in lovely clean waist/chest high peelers. So easy and fast to paddle and it feels like a skateboard under foot, never moved a board around so much on a wave before. Love it and I reckon this is the board to progress further on before getting something with less volume. The tail feels so much more responsive than on my fish too. Brilliant  :great:

Thanks again for all the knowledge on here gme and grantis, time to plan a trip away now....gagging for waves!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on July 11, 2012, 09:29:12 pm
Check these little buggers out, all pre teen with a surf ability way beyond their years...brilliant......bastards

MINI-BUGS 2012 Expression Session on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45302256)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 12, 2012, 09:41:02 am
Little wankers :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2012, 03:26:49 pm
Finally got round to seeing Bustin' down the Door on the weekend, and can highly recommend it. Great insight into a pivotal time in the history of surfing, and some quality old school footage; seriosuly ballsy surfing in huge North Shore waves on pretty low-tech boards by modern standards.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 07, 2012, 12:26:53 pm
http://www.protectourwaves.org.uk/ (http://www.protectourwaves.org.uk/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 13, 2012, 10:43:39 am
http://www.radiotimes.com/programme/rsfw6/surfing-special-the-endless-winter (http://www.radiotimes.com/programme/rsfw6/surfing-special-the-endless-winter)

Surfing on C4 this week and next. No idea if it will be any good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 13, 2012, 11:37:03 am
I presume they are the full length versions of the shorts that have been on MSW for a good while. If so well worth watching.

Dont feel much like a surfer at the minute due to the lack of waves, its been a long time since i have had a drop.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 13, 2012, 01:45:21 pm
bet you it's longer for me! Pinning hopes on wind dropping off early one morning this week (hopefully Wednseday). It will be shite windswell, but better than nowt.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on August 13, 2012, 09:49:43 pm
http://www.radiotimes.com/programme/rsfw6/surfing-special-the-endless-winter (http://www.radiotimes.com/programme/rsfw6/surfing-special-the-endless-winter)

Surfing on C4 this week and next. No idea if it will be any good.

Now available here:
http://www.channel4.com/programmes/surfing-special-the-endless-winter/4od#3396534 (http://www.channel4.com/programmes/surfing-special-the-endless-winter/4od#3396534)

Flat spells suck, fingers are crossed for you East Coasters...  There's some swell about here at the moment but it is the height of silly season  :devangel:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on September 11, 2012, 04:09:14 pm
 Look out east coasters 28 second swell period coming your way!!   :slap: 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 11, 2012, 08:59:24 pm
Yeah right. I'm glad I didn't hold my breath
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 21, 2012, 10:43:44 am
AGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGHHHGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 21, 2012, 10:47:55 am
?

September Sessions as absent in N Wales as they are on the East Coast?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 21, 2012, 01:16:08 pm
Yep. I feel your pain.
I"m starting to pine for waves, after a pretty good summer over here for swell the September swells have alluded us just as they did last year. Same pattern for you folks?
 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 21, 2012, 02:41:22 pm
Similar; we had a shit summer followed by a shit autumn. I suspect a shit winter will swiftly follow.

Still, first dusting of snow on 'gorms......
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on September 21, 2012, 03:43:32 pm
 :shit:  :shit:  :shit:

I too thought something decent might happen this weekend. Just seen the westcoastsurf update on facebook.. the nadine swell arriving on the llyn. Knee high at best. Boo.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 21, 2012, 04:10:07 pm
Shit summer and a shit Autumn, gutting.  :(

Defo worth watching for this Saturday mind, in my experience always be wary of Westcoast's knee high reports, on many occasion I have gone down to the Mouth with some of my own knowledge and a shit load of hope and scored peeling waist-chest high on me tod.

Similarly I have gone down on a 'knee high' and there's been nount...did this on Tuesday this week out of shear desperation and the need to deal with post festival serotonin depletion but fortunately for the natural yoghurt weaver in me there was an isolated apocalyptic storm hammering down on Bardsey with what looked very much like a water spout coming down (lasted for about 10mins), awesome to watch, but a ride along a lovely wave face it was not!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 21, 2012, 04:13:56 pm
Shit shit shit shit shit, it's only gone and fucking arrived! Aghhhhhh, I'm in work, must get out of work.......agghhhhh shiiiiiiiiiiit!

Westcoast's FB page for piccy..

http://www.facebook.com/pages/West-Coast-Surf-Shop/201563109294 (http://www.facebook.com/pages/West-Coast-Surf-Shop/201563109294)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on September 22, 2012, 06:15:31 pm
Well Nadine did indeed put out, albeit only waist, but clean waves in the sunshine were a satisfying snack for the rat and worth getting the afternoon off work..one good wave is all it takes eh?! Hope you boys got something. Potential for more with a storm system moving our way...hopefully.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 22, 2012, 07:05:30 pm
I have not been in the water for 5 weeks now. Worst summer and early autumn I can remember. Following a shocking winter.
I have actually been out bouldering more times than in the sea. 
Charts for the next 10 days look shite too. One well known secret spot will work on Tuesday hopefully.
Best check my jabs are up to date.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 24, 2012, 08:19:49 am
Yeah I'm holding out moderate hope for a sheltered sesion on Tuesday. Only moderate hope though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 25, 2012, 11:35:10 am
Guess there is a lot more money in surfing than climbing.

AND THE WINNER IS. . . . on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49992984)

Get sent to indo on a luxury boat trip for free for 10 days, film all the waves, get the public to vote on it and win $50k.
Guess it must have cost Kustom $250k minimum for one wave. I cant see the climbing companies doing similar.

Sick air though, JJF is freakishly good.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 25, 2012, 11:41:55 am
Did you find anywhere sheltered? Churning mess everywhere here this morning.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 25, 2012, 12:06:51 pm
Only one spot working and its way south of me. Was going to head there on my way to Sheffield but roads blocked so stuck at home.
Just storm surf here.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 25, 2012, 12:08:58 pm
Hopefully wind drops before waves do.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 03, 2012, 06:05:06 am
admittedly "there's this Irish woman who goes surfing in Iran" sounds like the intro to a bad Jim Davidson joke, but I liked this story

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-19802822 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-19802822)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 10, 2012, 01:38:57 pm
Looks like Lleyn will be lighting up for the next 36 hours or so. Unfortunately I'm not allowed more than an hour from Sheffield currently. #preggerswife
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2012, 02:13:35 pm
Headstress! I would be catching up on sleep!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 10, 2012, 02:19:25 pm
Unfortunately I'm not allowed more than an hour from Sheffield currently. #preggerswife

Congrats btw!  :beer2: I hadn't heard.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on October 23, 2012, 02:28:38 pm
And it did Adam! Then it went off at certain spots last week....And then it did something pretty special on Sunday and yesterday...clean, slightly off shore and powerful long period... Overhead/head on Sunday, shoulder/chest yesterday...me shoulders and back are fucked, I've chafed me ball sack and arm pits and I can't wipe the smile off me face everytime I think about it. Some of my best rides of the year/ ever!   :punk:

Saw the South looking incredible ont web..just what was needed after the September shitness and more on it's way. Sincerely hope everyone got some and gets even more...  :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on October 23, 2012, 02:29:56 pm
and almost as importantly..... Congratulations Adam!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 23, 2012, 03:32:43 pm
Sincerely hope everyone got some and gets even more...  :bounce:

Currently sacrificing seagull like mad in a hope that the current forecast for Friday and the weekend is correct.

Looks like the SW is getting some good stuff, and glad you are scoring too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 23, 2012, 04:05:23 pm
I could cry. Going to germany on Friday evening until wednesday evening, family holiday to see friends and will be great but missing the best forecast of the year for the east coast.

Friday is my only hope, luckily it will be the biggest day and the tides are good for the morning.

F888ing surfing drives me insane.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 24, 2012, 08:34:30 am
Autumn has been a pretty dire affair so far as surfing goes, have been training pretty hard for a bouldering trip which has kept things busy whilst the surf has been poo.  However, Sunday was just one of those epic days you dream of, absolutely pumping it's nut off on all the beaches, deep ground swell with perfect wind.  High tide in the morning at Croyde was like a sand bottom left point draining right across the bay, low tide met the peak of the swell it was meaty but not too hard to surf if you picked the right ones.  Days like this don't happen too often, lucky to be around to the make the most this time...   

(http://b.msw.ms/photoLab/fullWidth/277779.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on October 24, 2012, 11:59:13 am
Still looking good for Friday and the weekend...it's on it's way, keep sacrificing them seagulls...

Autumn has been a pretty dire affair so far as surfing goes, have been training pretty hard for a bouldering trip which has kept things busy whilst the surf has been poo.  However, Sunday was just one of those epic days you dream of, absolutely pumping it's nut off on all the beaches, deep ground swell with perfect wind.  High tide in the morning at Croyde was like a sand bottom left point draining right across the bay, low tide met the peak of the swell it was meaty but not too hard to surf if you picked the right ones.  Days like this don't happen too often, lucky to be around to the make the most this time...   

(http://b.msw.ms/photoLab/fullWidth/277779.jpg)

 :clap2: That looks fucking mint, fair size too! Brilliant. Special day eh?!  :beer2:

gme, I feel your pain.....two days and you'll be smiling and all the pain will be forgotten eh?!...Hope you've been doing your press ups, have a good one up there
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 24, 2012, 02:55:06 pm
Quote
That looks fucking mint, fair size too! Brilliant. Special day eh?! 

It was solidly overhead from mid morning onwards! Still smiling..   ;D Got pitted twice and threw some turns on a long draining left that was a contender for the best wave I've had ever. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 25, 2012, 10:01:52 pm
Flat as a mill pond today, here's the left point I was banging on about.  Yes it is Croyde!

(http://b.msw.ms/photoLab/fullWidth/278133.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 25, 2012, 10:23:21 pm
That's seriously impressive!!!!

Van packed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2012, 12:43:48 pm
Hmmm. Ok session. Bit windier than I would have liked so shifty peaks made for a bit if a paddle fest, but managed to get a few gooduns and fitness didn't let me down as badly as expected. Took a couple on the head misjudging size and required action when paddling out, mostly due to laziness and complacency.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 27, 2012, 01:33:27 pm
Snow on the beach??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 28, 2012, 09:27:32 pm
Not when I got out but whe I left the pub at 11 pm It was lying a couple of inches to sea level. Thawed I morning though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on October 29, 2012, 11:19:01 am
Flat as a mill pond today, here's the left point I was banging on about.  Yes it is Croyde!
wow - I've never seen Croyde looking like that!  that's a big olde duck dive if you get caught

Sunday was amazing eh. Here's some pics from Gwithian where I surfed (although I was obviously going too fast for him to catch a pic of me  ;)  )
http://splashography.com/2012Gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=52296 (http://splashography.com/2012Gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=52296)

and here's a pic I took of my local later in the afternoon

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8190/8112126198_968fedc535.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dr T on November 23, 2012, 06:59:53 pm
Wetsuit not required...
GLOBE'S ELECTRIC BLUE HEAVEN on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/44253174)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 08, 2012, 08:45:59 pm
http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2012/live (http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/billabongpipemasters2012/live)

Gentlemen - Pipemasters is on...   :popcorn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 09, 2012, 03:18:29 pm
Pipe masters good last night but looking epic tonight. If you have never watched a comp this is the one.
They are talking big floggings to get the good ones.
Warriors.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on January 06, 2013, 07:55:59 pm
I hope everyone's been getting their fair share of the recent winter swells. I have now had my fill of my keeness far out weighing wave quality, not forgetting endless grey skies and I'm currently looking to book a week in Morocco for next week. Originally we (two of us) were going to go for a cheap half board package (sub 300) in Agadir but we're now toying with the idea of getting a flight only (125ish) and sorting accommodation inTarhazoute when we get there. The latter at the moment seems more appealing.
 
However, before I book I wondered if anyone on here has any experience or advice on this?
We'll be hiring a car, probably at the airport.

We originally toyed with going to Fuerteventura or Lanzarote.

Cheers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2013, 10:15:49 am
http://surferspath.mpora.com/features/10-reasons-surfing-sucks-agree-to-disagree-tsp94.html (http://surferspath.mpora.com/features/10-reasons-surfing-sucks-agree-to-disagree-tsp94.html)

Can't argue.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Iesu on January 16, 2013, 03:19:25 pm
http://surferspath.mpora.com/features/10-reasons-surfing-sucks-agree-to-disagree-tsp94.html (http://surferspath.mpora.com/features/10-reasons-surfing-sucks-agree-to-disagree-tsp94.html)

Can't argue.

most of it also applies to climbers/boulderers too, no?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2013, 03:32:44 pm
Fo sho. Surfers are worse though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Iesu on January 16, 2013, 08:38:37 pm
Awesome mag by the way ; good shout
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tesla on January 17, 2013, 02:48:40 pm
Mavericks comp is on this weekend:

http://mavericksinvitational.com/ (http://mavericksinvitational.com/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 20, 2013, 05:06:40 pm
On live now.  The main site seems to be struggling, but SurfLine has the stream up http://www.surfline.com/home/index.cfm (http://www.surfline.com/home/index.cfm)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: DaveC on January 29, 2013, 08:53:45 pm
http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2013/jan/29/surfer-garrett-mcnamara-100ft-wave (http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2013/jan/29/surfer-garrett-mcnamara-100ft-wave)

Struth!  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on January 29, 2013, 10:08:12 pm
Never fail to be astounded by this sort of stuff.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 30, 2013, 08:44:07 am
(http://thechive.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/83258228.gif?w=500&h=696)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 30, 2013, 09:00:53 am
There's a standing wave like this in the centre of Munich.  Has a fully fledged surf scene around it and the locals make special boards to ride it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2013, 09:47:30 am
The Munich one seems crazily popular. When we went to Jackson Hole there were some surfboards in the corner of one of the ski hire shops, and when I asked the guys said there were some great river waves round there they rode in the summer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy_e on April 30, 2013, 09:56:18 am
Travelling without moving!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on April 30, 2013, 10:51:30 am
There's a standing wave like this in the centre of Munich.  Has a fully fledged surf scene around it and the locals make special boards to ride it.

Looks fun. standing wave munich (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jD0RZ6fPOOs#)

This guy is dedicated/crazy [delete as appropriate]
http://www.surfberlin.com/ (http://www.surfberlin.com/)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 30, 2013, 03:55:07 pm
I have always thought that waves like this must exist in the UK just no surfer has found them/ looked.
Must be some on one of the scottish rivers.

If not i bet it wouldnt be hard to build one and a lot cheaper than a flowrider.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2013, 04:02:28 pm
There probably are, but no-one in the UK is far enough away from the sea to be too desperate to find them. And if there are any they probably have an insitu playboat. be nice if the kayakers stuck to the rivers and we stuck to the sea.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on July 18, 2013, 02:05:09 am
Okay, so its taken me thirteen years to realise this but Ive finally become aware that its far more sensible to play in waves than try and dangle off cliffs when the weather is typically about 33-34 deg with 80-90% humidity

In other words Ive recently been bitten by the surfing bug and am now more frequently found at the beach than the crag, to the point where Im looking to make that all important step of buying a first board which is where I hope you guys can come in and share your collective advice / experience

A bit of background to help any tips you can provide:
- This is my nearest (and most regularly visited) spot: http://magicseaweed.com/Big-Wave-Bay-HK-Surf-Report/1163/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Big-Wave-Bay-HK-Surf-Report/1163/)
- Im about 511 and fluctuate around the 80 kg mark (looking to bring this down but I enjoy my food and drink a bit too much to get too anal about all that)
- Have generally been hiring a 7 floaty foam thingy to learn on and seem to do okay on this i.e. can regularly catch waves and stay on them in a straight line to the shore (no days bigger than 3-4ft so far but theres a typhoon brewing for this weekend), but certainly not actually riding them at this stage
- This place ships world-wide for free and gets things to HK in about 4-5 days apparently (http://www.surfdome.com/ (http://www.surfdome.com/) ) so something they have in stock, or suggestions from elsewhere that can get it to HK without charging an arm and a leg for shipping
- This month was pay rise and profit share month so not too fussed about shelling out for something, provided its good and a) wont be too small / low volume to progress on or b) wont be too big / cumbersome that Ill grow out of it quickly

Any tips very much appreciated Id forgotten how much fun it was to be a beginner at something
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2013, 08:57:33 am
Getting the balance between something to progress on and just getting frustrated is tricky.

The standard answer is a minimal of about 7ft in size, but a single fin egg with a bit of volume will probably be more fun on once you progress a bit more, as you are fairly athletic and assume got good balance from snowboarding and yoga and shit. (Plus you've been at it since the sick Buffel's Bay sessions at the turn of the millenium). Is there a second hand market, or a possibility to hire some boards other than beginner's foamies?

Or you can just get a 10ft barge like your brother.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 19, 2013, 02:35:22 pm
When we went to Jackson Hole there were some surfboards in the corner of one of the ski hire shops, and when I asked the guys said there were some great river waves round there they rode in the summer.

http://www.tetongravity.com/blogs/Surf-Jackson-Hole-6539372.htm (http://www.tetongravity.com/blogs/Surf-Jackson-Hole-6539372.htm)

Must be so wierd
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on July 27, 2013, 10:17:02 am
Or you can just get a 10ft barge like your brother.
Tried this approach today as the waves were crap - didn't like it, longer rides but seemed to miss 2/3 of the waves i went for. Switched back to the 7' Egg i've hired the past few trips after an hour or so and had far more fun on that.

Unfortunately its not looked like this for a few weeks now and the forecast is for a millpond for the next week or so (so i guess i may actually do some climbing instead...):
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7396/9376877390_2ff9eda638_o.jpg)

Ended up placing an order for one of these (7') based on advice from people i've met on the water:
http://simonandersonsurfboards.com/au/?portfolio=mollusc-robo (http://simonandersonsurfboards.com/au/?portfolio=mollusc-robo)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 29, 2013, 08:52:51 am
Looks like the business. Nothing guarantees getting a flat spell like buying a new board.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on August 13, 2013, 11:33:22 am
Big Wave Bay in HK living up to its name thanks to a nearby typhoon

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3742/9499253037_8419e58f72_c.jpg)

you know conditions are bad when not one person is out in the water...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 13, 2013, 01:40:26 pm
Should get a bit smaller and cleaner at some point?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on August 15, 2013, 05:02:37 pm
Superb!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7STUcOTk8wU#at=88 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7STUcOTk8wU#at=88)

(via @fieldproducer)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 16, 2013, 09:17:56 am
These little remote control helicopters open up a wealth of possibility. Shame that wave goes the wrong way!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 16, 2013, 09:41:59 am
You need to check your monitor Chris, its going the right way on mine.

Skeleton Bay i guess, one on my list of spots i really want to visit (but probably never will).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 16, 2013, 10:27:14 am
Only because you are spaz footed :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on August 19, 2013, 10:45:38 pm
This won't be new news to the well established UKB surfers...

But  for those of us camping en famille  for the summer holiday that want to have the opportunity of  climbing, lots of beach and some bodyboarding that is a little more than than the usual slow and weak waves the uk offers in August....

May I seriously suggest a holiday on the Gower..

Have a google about mewslade bay, staying at pitton cross campsite.

Not an easy wave, even for sponging.. But great great fun in a stunning location.

I'm going back. It's really good!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2013, 09:30:51 am
Going to be a whole lot of mediocre sport routes there soon too!

Love the Gower, Llangenith is a great beach, did a lot of my formative surfing there. Bitch to paddle out with a minimal when it's big.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on August 22, 2013, 07:06:46 pm
Just got back from Ireland, what an amazing place it is.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2013, 03:23:19 pm
ANGOLA - New surf discovery! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ni_xEeAAle0#)

3km wave. Shame Angola is such a hole.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dr T on September 10, 2013, 07:50:40 pm
 :off: :sorry: but.....

I'm guessing the surfing population on here is the best source of advice on waves and beaches in the UK

Any knowledge out there about beaches in the UK that might have beach breaks suitable for skimboarding..

i.e. like....

2012COHESION SKIMBOARD TAIWAN PART 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OsKj57D1is#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 10, 2013, 08:45:37 pm
Most of the beach breaks in my experience. Plus lots of beaches that never get waves or surfers. Anywhere where its sandy and doesn't shelve too steeply basically.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 10, 2013, 11:19:35 pm
It depends what you're looking for.  There are loads of flatland skimming spots on every coast where you can have fun flat skimming and trying 360 spins 'n stuff.  Proper skimboarding where you pump out to ride real waves are much harder to come by and you need a steeply shelving beach which has a clean break close to shore and there aren't very many of them with a good wet run in,plus wetsuits make things more difficult.  I've got a Victoria glass/fibre skimboard and its fun but I went to Florida in Winter and spent some time with guys skimming on the gulf coast and realised my board is massively undersized for riding waves - I rented a 4.5 footer and it was piss to ride out into breaking waves with a good fast run up. Made me rethink some spots here...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 10, 2013, 11:38:04 pm
I'm not sure if this link works but this gives a good idea of what some of our shores might have in store.  Refracted waves  like The Wedge http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2sUbVwxg7B0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2sUbVwxg7B0 (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2sUbVwxg7B0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2sUbVwxg7B0)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 11, 2013, 10:08:38 am
http://www.zavvi.com/dvd/bruce-brown-signature-collection-magna-finished-stock/10620166.html (http://www.zavvi.com/dvd/bruce-brown-signature-collection-magna-finished-stock/10620166.html)

Bargain for 10 hours of nostalgia.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on September 14, 2013, 06:19:27 am
New toy finally arrived (had to wait for them to make it...) - been out on it the past two days and am a very happy bunny  :2thumbsup:

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7297/9737627851_0088d5f882_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7392/9739833446_ce01211131_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7417/9739832402_dd4103c0e1_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7421/9739834364_7b1ab7436d_c.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 14, 2013, 01:17:27 pm
Proper skimboarding where you pump out to ride real waves are much harder to come by and you need a steeply shelving beach which has a clean break close to shore and there aren't very many of them with a good wet run in,plus wetsuits make things more difficult. 

We used to tow-in at Porth Ceriad with a rope and a sprinting friend. Other than pissing around in 2" of water, it strikes me as the kind of thing that is too difficult to bother learning on its own, but if you're a brilliant surfer/ skateboarder trying to have some fun on a day when the proper breaks aren't working, you can probably have some fun.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dr T on September 14, 2013, 05:56:04 pm
I'm not sure if this link works but this gives a good idea of what some of our shores might have in store.  Refracted waves  like The Wedge http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2sUbVwxg7B0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2sUbVwxg7B0 (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2sUbVwxg7B0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D2sUbVwxg7B0)

Aye that's more like what I'm looking for - shame it's Newport LA not Newport Wales!
The beaches on the south coast are fine for some flat land and I'm learning well on that

I've got a 54" circle one board now and I'd like to see it's potential so any guidance to suitable, as FD put it
steeply shelving beach which has a clean break close to shore
beaches would be great

Know for sure we're going to be in Pembrokeshire next summer and some of the beaches on the south side i.e. around Stackpole might be worth a view but other than that..

I guess St Ives might fit the bill at high tide but was hoping for something a bit closer to the south east..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2013, 07:24:45 am
A quick googling says there are one or two dedicated skimboarding sites, might be a useful source?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Dr T on September 15, 2013, 09:03:06 am
A quick googling says there are one or two dedicated skimboarding sites, might be a useful source?
You would have thought....
Shows something at Bournemouth (the site is based there mind) so will check that out otherwise it's cornwall or Wales
Most stuff on the net is based in the USA, France or Taiwan from what I've seen
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on September 22, 2013, 05:57:13 am
super typhoon about to bang into HK in the next 24-hours = big waves, which was nice...

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/547758_10151972025129073_262357317_n.jpg)

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3667/9866168276_1b99c6e4e2_c.jpg)

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1236434_10151972044064073_616722193_n.jpg)

not quite so impressive yesterday but the 40 min hike was worth it to escape the crowds

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7432/9850589906_cf32749891_c.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2013, 11:36:54 am
That you in pic 3? Goof.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on October 02, 2013, 06:25:42 am
That you in pic 3? Goof.

I wish - i was sticking to the 'baby' 4-6 ft lefts breaking on the other side of the beach rather than the 8-10 ft monsters those waves started off as... As it was i only managed to get two of those in the 2 hours i was out there (about a 25% success ratio with the rest ending up as some serious holding breath lessons)

Swell from the typhoon stuck around until yesterday morning so we've not done too bad out of it
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 02, 2013, 08:54:56 am
I'm a bit pleased that isn't you as I would be annoyed if you had picked it up that quickly :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2013, 11:52:50 am
RIP Chops.


http://www.carvemag.com/2013/10/the-passing-of-a-legend-rip-chops-lascelles/ (http://www.carvemag.com/2013/10/the-passing-of-a-legend-rip-chops-lascelles/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on October 21, 2013, 11:21:08 am
Bit of a long shot but does anyone happen to have a double board bag or coffin that is surplus to requirements? Heading to Morocco in the new year and want to take the girlfriends 7'2 in with mine to avoid paying for two boards with easyjet. Don't want to pay much as I am hoping she will soon move down to a smaller board!

Cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 21, 2013, 11:57:09 am
I have one you can borrow to save buying one. Can bring it down to Sheff. I think it will take a 7`2" but need to check. Takes three boards plus stuff.

There an expensive thing to have if you dont travel a lot so we tend to share them around. If you want it you need to swear to catch a wave dedicated to me every day and i need it back for March as i am off to Indo.

Let me know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on October 21, 2013, 12:01:16 pm
Many thanks for the offer Gav. When do you need it in March, probably going to be away until about the 5th? Probably a bit late for you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 21, 2013, 12:43:07 pm
We go on the 20th so not an issue unless you extend your stay.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on October 21, 2013, 01:43:28 pm
Great. Will be booking flights in the next couple of days. Once I have, I will drop you a message. I am in Glasgow now but head down south regularly so should be able to sort something and then drop it off on my way back north.

Cheers

Chris
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 21, 2013, 07:26:18 pm
I've got one too, I'm in London but the bag is in Wales at the mo.  I'm going to Indo with Gav so would need it back at the same time.  Whichever's easier.... London/Sheffield/Northumberland
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2013, 08:38:40 am
Better get that water fitness back up FD! Trip of a lifetime no 3?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on October 22, 2013, 08:47:36 am
Many thanks FD. What a helpful bunch! I'll have a think about where will be easiest. Very jealous of the Indo trip, haven't been for ages. Where are you headed?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Bubba on October 25, 2013, 11:58:39 am
Some stunning photos in the online surf mag (http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/34be7827)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 25, 2013, 12:58:04 pm
Back to the Mentawaii.

Chris, I think gav's on number 5.  It's nice for me to not have to ask permission from anyone this time. I'll need to get in the gym and the pool to prepare.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on October 25, 2013, 01:10:48 pm
Thinking of making a trip down the Llyn this weekend, with the impending doom forecast for sun. Strange one I think, was thinking might be able to get away with surfing some spots on the north coast that never get surfed..? Huge huge swell height but relatively short period, and super windy, dont know what do people think is going to happen   :worms:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 25, 2013, 01:24:07 pm
Not an expert, but it looks like promising for what you have in mind. I've enjoyed similar in the past.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 25, 2013, 01:31:11 pm

Chris, I think gav's on number 5.  It's nice for me to not have to ask permission from anyone this time. I'll need to get in the gym and the pool to prepare.

Jammy feckers. If you fancy any trips out west I know Londoners who travel there a bit. Or your board up here is feeling neglected.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on October 26, 2013, 07:58:07 pm
Thinking of making a trip down the Llyn this weekend, with the impending doom forecast for sun. Strange one I think, was thinking might be able to get away with surfing some spots on the north coast that never get surfed..? Huge huge swell height but relatively short period, and super windy, dont know what do people think is going to happen   :worms:

Swell is going to be an absolute boomer according to the charts, anywhere sheltered in a SWerley should get swell wrapping in to it and offshore wind grooming it.  The more sheltered the better down here, will be exploring nooks and crannies along Exmoor Coast/Bristol Channel tomorrow.  :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 28, 2013, 05:29:18 pm
Big waves from Portugal this morning. 

Vimeo is worth a watch, stick to the end for Andrew Cotton's monster.

http://magicseaweed.com/news/nazare-blows-up/5733/ (http://magicseaweed.com/news/nazare-blows-up/5733/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on November 10, 2013, 07:16:29 am
the latest monster typhoon didn't bring such big swell to HK this time - still not too bad out there today though:

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/10772248025_81ffa87f76_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7298/10772314196_16e45a7538_c.jpg)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5477/10772409056_2c80574cc7_b.jpg)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5486/10772332536_b0532ca7b4_c.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 25, 2013, 07:10:29 pm
Not bad for a beginner Stu  ;D

This is worth watching BIGGEST TEAHUPOO EVER on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/35328567) for monster waves and why professional surfing is such a fucking circus.

Started back in the gym pool last week and heading to Northumberland with wetsuit and rock boots to see GME this weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 26, 2013, 09:08:00 am
If you ever fancy a trip further north your Al Merrick board is sad and lonely........
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on December 02, 2013, 01:56:44 pm
Somewhere in Alaska...

(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BaeXA-aCQAEAX1o.jpg:large)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 02, 2013, 02:35:24 pm
That looks great. Images of cold water surfing really catch my attention, something about the water makes them look different to tropical pictures. Often the water is really dark (not in this instance obviously) and this seams to accentuate the glassyness of the wave.

If i was a man with more time i would love to explore the likes of Norway, Canada, Iceland etc where you need to wait for the right conditions to get the good days, but as i am time poor i stick to a full board package type of trip to the tropics.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: T_B on December 02, 2013, 03:23:00 pm
I wonder what peak that is in the background?

(oh, the er waves look nice too  :???:)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2013, 03:37:11 pm
...whereas in the Icelandic ice climbing clip in Onsight I was checking out the nice little wave in the background!

http://www.posingproductions.com/product.php?form_action=detail&product_id=188 (http://www.posingproductions.com/product.php?form_action=detail&product_id=188)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2013, 04:15:45 pm
I wonder what peak that is in the background?

Don't know, no backlink! :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2013, 04:29:36 pm
Quick googling of Alaska Coastal Range reveals; Mt St Elias 18000ft.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on December 02, 2013, 04:30:18 pm
Don't know, no backlink! :)

Try the photographers watermark as a clue if you want to know where its hosted.  :)

Details of location are still lacking.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 02, 2013, 04:39:17 pm
Probably deliberately.  Most unnamed spots will only get titled as such.  Not that Alaska is going to crowded any time soon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigtuboflard on December 02, 2013, 04:53:48 pm
Quick googling of Alaska Coastal Range reveals; Mt St Elias 18000ft.

definitely Mt St Elias

http://images.summitpost.org/original/177160.jpg (http://images.summitpost.org/original/177160.jpg)

and yes, great looking waves. Off to Vancouver island next spring and though i wont be taking a board, and secretly hoping that i might get a day or so on the water
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2013, 09:40:21 pm
You can hire at main surf spots, we never made it there but planned to
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on December 02, 2013, 10:35:01 pm
If you are going out there...get out on the MTB trails.. They rank as some of the best in the world. XC / AM / FR whatever...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 03, 2013, 10:07:58 am
This guy is the main man out there and always puts a great section in for the Innersection DVD each year. I would love to go but its fickle as hell, the weather is shite and you need a lot of time to explore.

<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/25748117" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/25748117">Peter Devries // Innersection Spring 2011</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3333712">INNERSECTION</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on December 19, 2013, 04:49:20 pm
/via Bubba...

Black Swans Surfing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlyTvlvi0gU#ws)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 03, 2014, 02:32:13 pm
Pretty gnarly down SW at the minute. 

http://www.eyeballhq.tv/2014/01/02/know-your-limits-and-just-say-no/ (http://www.eyeballhq.tv/2014/01/02/know-your-limits-and-just-say-no/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on January 03, 2014, 02:57:14 pm
certainly is.. our local beach cafe has no windows left and a kitchen full of seaweed  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2014, 03:49:39 pm
They got a deep fryer for it?

Was wild here overnight, might be a wave in one of the more sheltered spots if I wasn't still trashed from yesterday.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 03, 2014, 05:30:23 pm
certainly is.. our local beach cafe has no windows left and a kitchen full of seaweed  :o
Lava bread is on the specials board is it?

Our waterfront area in town and local park are underwater due to the tidal surge up the estuary.  High tide is in an hour and half again, along with the peak in swell/wind strength.  Could be a long night for some.

Swell hasn't dropped under 8ft for about 3 weeks, had a few good surfs at sheltered spots over the hols.  Decided against today, bit too hectic out there but I'm sure there will have been some rare beasts awakened, shame the tides are so BIG...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2014, 08:10:09 pm
Surely high highs mean low lows too? Get some of the rare reefs firing.

Hope there not too much serious damage, we seems to have been spared the worst of it this time round.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 03, 2014, 09:45:16 pm
 Continues to be pretty shit on the east. Odd bit of swell but the weather patterns we are getting the last few winters are just all wrong for over here. Need the lows tracking more north again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2014, 10:34:06 pm
We had ok waves yesterday, southerly windswell but was good for a few hours. Sometimes a ESE facing coastline has its advantages.

I bet if you knew the sheltered spots you could be getting some amazing shit on the Hebrides right now
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 09, 2014, 09:43:05 am
Belharra meets Hercules on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/83647031)

Some hammerings being dealt out here. Good work for not towing in though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 24, 2014, 05:46:39 pm
Comp at Mavericks live on over-caffeinated sugary drink company TV currently
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 24, 2014, 09:18:48 pm
Roxy Pro Biarritz 2013 Commercial on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/78615370)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on January 30, 2014, 12:31:42 pm
surprised no ones posted any of the recent drone surf footage yet - this one of Rincon and the one of Pipe seem to be the best on offer so far;

http://youtu.be/PSarg_QSvaY (http://youtu.be/PSarg_QSvaY)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on January 30, 2014, 12:35:12 pm
and the pipeline one:

Pipeline Winter 2013 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/83187924)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 30, 2014, 12:55:46 pm
Seen the Pipeline one but not the Rincon one, ta. Clearly the future for this kind of thing. Would have been amazing to have had one when I was shooting the Longhope route last summer.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2014, 01:24:36 pm
Great footage, but not sure I would want one buzzing round me when I'm trying to have a quiet session. Although judging my numbers at Rincon I guess quiet isn't an option.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on January 30, 2014, 11:31:36 pm
As someone who cannot surf, but wished I learnt back in the day... The light and angles were incredibly beautiful. I'm sure given a lottery win I could at least ride it there when small... let's face it... I'd have the time to learn... There is nothing wrong with dreams...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on January 31, 2014, 01:36:41 pm
Thinking of getting some Patagonia R4 boots as me feet are already cold in my Alder Plasma 7mm's after a couple of hours at the mo....had frost nip on me toes before so think my feet feel the cold. I think the Alders may just be on the big side and admittedly this could be a contributing factor.
Wondering if anyone has any experience of these boots as they don't seem to get by good reviews. Also any alternatives people with similar cold feet would recommend?
Cheers
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 31, 2014, 02:24:26 pm
I'm sure given a lottery win I could at least ride it there when small...

I doubt it, it gets even busier when it's small.  One of our mates has surfed Pipe and he's a really good surfer, said it took him about ten hours to get a single wave.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 31, 2014, 08:49:05 pm
Thinking of getting some Patagonia R4 boots as me feet are already cold in my Alder Plasma 7mm's after a couple of hours at the mo....had frost nip on me toes before so think my feet feel the cold. I think the Alders may just be on the big side and admittedly this could be a contributing factor.
Wondering if anyone has any experience of these boots as they don't seem to get by good reviews. Also any alternatives people with similar cold feet would recommend?
I've got a pair of the Alder Plasmas 7s and think they are brilliant, I can surf North Sea in Dec / Jan / Feb and my feet are starting to get cold after 2 - 3 hours. Might just be fit. No idea on Patagonia boots, sorry.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on February 01, 2014, 09:01:12 pm
think your're probably right Chris, they were toasty last year...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on February 03, 2014, 11:42:44 am
Something to watch for is that if your suit's getting on a bit, cold creeps up on you and you feel it first in your feet/hands. Better boots/gloves might make some difference but that's not the main issue. Conversely if you're warm in a new suit you can get away with thinner boots.

(Totally different to say cycling where your core can be a furnace but the wrong footwear means misery.)

Forgive me if this is teaching granny to take her teeth out before she sucks eggs. Sidetracking myself... Ten years ago I used to think that surfing the north sea in Feb, of course you're going to be cold but with the right gear there's just no need for that to happen.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on February 11, 2014, 05:19:07 am
Thinking of getting some Patagonia R4 boots

Have some R3's that i tested out this morning as the mercury dropped to 7 deg in HK - the first time this winter its felt vaguely justifiable to use them (and even then would probably have been fine without as water temp was still okay). 

Pretty happy with them on the whole but they'll probably be relegated back to the cupboard - i doubt it'll get much colder than today again this year
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chummer on February 12, 2014, 01:08:20 am
Funnily enough I have been wondering this since I learnt how neoprene degartpdes over time..my winter suit is three years old and has had heavy wear even though it still looks in reasonably good nick...I could feel the cold just seeping in...new suit ordered...

In the mean time I went for the Excel dri lock 7mm booties and they're the shit! Toasty toasty with virtually no water ingress. My Alders were defo too big in comparison.

Anyone with size 8's looking for new booties?..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 12, 2014, 09:06:55 am
Wetsuits dont stay leak free very long at all. If you truly want to stay warm they last one season. I usually get a new one every winter then keep my year old one as a second suit for those two session days. By season three they are not worth wearing so i give them away.
I didnt get a new one this winter as due to how shit the east coast has been i have not surfed as much. But even with less use the suit is nowhere near as warm as it should be, so i can only surmise that the neoprene does deteriorate with time rather than use.
I do look after them pretty well, washed after every surf (in the washing machine rinse and spin, which i have found does not harm the suit at all), hung up to dry and stored out of sunlight.
Re boots, i have got 7mm and 5mm and dont see any difference when they are new, but the 7mm are definitely better a few seasons in. Generally keep them for 2 seasons but usually because i rip them rather than leakage. Like climbing boots get them tight, i wear size 8s when my street shoe is 91/2-10.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2014, 09:54:19 am
By season three they are not worth wearing so i give them away.

Such generosity. Was in the water just after new year and it was first time I really felt cold around my back and shoulders for a while, so guess it's on its way out. I've got a 12 year old GUL 5/3 Steamer which I still wear as a summer suit. No leaks, just neoprene is getting really thin, probably equivalent to a 2mm suit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 12, 2014, 10:44:59 am
I could sell them but cant be arsed with ebay.

Been know to give boards away before for the same reason. I now take my old boards to Indo to leave them from the locals.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2014, 11:17:07 am
I've heard of folk doing the same with old boards in SA. Good move.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 12, 2014, 11:48:46 am
Only problem is the locals now rip much more than i do making it harder to catch waves over there. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2014, 12:11:59 pm
Here's a cross for you to bear.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 12, 2014, 04:55:42 pm
Quote from: West Coast Surf on FB
Wednesday afternoon. The storm is raging now with wind between 80 and 105 mph. Several trees are down and there is a lot of branches and other debris on the roads. I managed to snag this bit of film to show what the sea (close in and protected) looks like in a force 11 -12.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/West-Coast-Surf-Shop/201563109294 (https://www.facebook.com/pages/West-Coast-Surf-Shop/201563109294)
 :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 12, 2014, 07:23:01 pm
That'll be inside the shelter of the Abersoch headland...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on March 24, 2014, 08:14:17 am
Quote
Arkem? I never managed to figure out what went where on that arete.
Yep! That's the one..  Bum Start, left hand on pinch right in crack thing with thumb over top of crystal, right foot on low edge under crack, left heel on low slopey edge around arete, pull on slap up with left to fat sloper, bring right foot up to little crystal foothold... Etc..

The wonders of ukb, had a session on arkem y'day and got close but ran out of skin and wasn't sure i had worked out the right beta, got home and did a search for it and found the above blow by blow beta from granticus 7 years ago on the surf thread ::)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on April 07, 2014, 06:29:15 am
finally something resembling a swell arrived in HK this morning - gave me a chance to test out the new toy strapped to the front of my board before heading in to work:

http://youtu.be/3EtqWvW10rU (http://youtu.be/3EtqWvW10rU)

session didn't end to well when a botched duck dive resulted in a board in the face and half a tooth being knocked clean off... time for an expensive trip to the dentist this afternoon...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 07, 2014, 08:31:33 am
Good session, no luck with the tooth.

I was out Sat am for the first time on new log

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/p403x403/10150551_10152002913751087_599422406862545510_n.jpg)

Fluid Juice semi-pig. 9ft 6 x 23 1.2 x 3. Boughght second hand (nearly new) from someone who's teaken up SUP boarding. In spite of the short period paddle fest, got some brilliant rides on it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on April 07, 2014, 09:39:47 am
Good session, no luck with the tooth.

very annoying as i could have squeezed in another half hour of good waves with only 3 other people out (normally bad waves and about another 30 to 40 people out...)

the way things have been out here lately i think i need to start looking for a big beast similar to that one you've just acquired - i even went out climbing for the first time in three months last weekend as its been so flat of late...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 07, 2014, 10:10:39 am
Don't know what conditions are like your way, but useful to have, especially up here when waves are often slack and gutless. I tend to default to it unless it's big.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on April 16, 2014, 09:58:04 am
Duct tape surfing (http://www.theguardian.com/sport/video/2014/apr/11/duct-tape-paraplegic-surfer)  8) :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: casa on April 16, 2014, 10:38:36 am
 :clap2:
good on him
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 16, 2014, 10:43:21 am
:clap2:
good on him
seen it before but it's pretty inspiring eh

bit like the Thurso forecast for this weekend
http://magicseaweed.com/Thurso-East-Surf-Report/47/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Thurso-East-Surf-Report/47/)

here's hoping it's worth the 14h drive from Cornwall   :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 16, 2014, 12:04:11 pm
Ben- Dont believe the MSW hype too much there is a lot of west in the swell so wont be as big as they are suggesting. Looks good though and other spots will be firing as well.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 16, 2014, 12:12:02 pm
thanks gme and yep fair enough.  Not as big as they're suggesting is no bad thing when the water's cold and I'm really unfit..    any recommendations for alternative breaks/wild camping gratefully received  (ChrisF has already given me some beta)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 16, 2014, 02:47:15 pm
Torrisdale is my favorite spot up there, best beach and my favorite place in the UK for camping. This is properly the BIG country.

The wave is the longest right hander in UK but its fickle only works as the tide drops towards low, as soon as the tide pushes the rip ruins it. Not heavy or hollow but long fast walls. I have surfed it well overhead and got 400+m rides. Amazing camping spot on the shore above the wave, mussels in the rocks and a river full of sea trout and salmon, free fishing below the bridge. The forecast looks really good for it.

Bear in mind its pretty wild up there, heavy waves and lots of rips. Jump off the rocks to get in and prepare to paddle a lot. If you get in trouble your on your own.

At the main breaks you can camp at Thurso east but its a shit hole better spot is at Point of Ness harbor, only 15 mins drive away and has a nice mellow right hander that will be working.

Loads of spots all along the coast and you can see a lot of them from the road. Seek and you shall find. Its easter weekend so TE will be rammed.

I am jealous, not been up there for a while and its only 5 hours drive for me.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 16, 2014, 02:51:16 pm
many thanks gme - plus it seems to have a large bloc sat out the back in the dunes, bonus
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 22, 2014, 12:11:17 pm
Thanks gme & Chris for some top beta, had the most amazing weekend of waves and weather on the North coast  ;D  A quick summary below:
Arrived at 8am Fri morning (having left West Cornwall at 5pm Thurs night) and Thurso East was about 4-5ft and firing but with loads of people out. So went and checked further east to no avail, came back to TE and there were only 2 in so we got in and had an great session.  What an amazing wave.. it wasn't particularly barrelly I guess as the swell was a bit northerly but just such a good shape.
Camped at Torrisdale every night, what an amazing spot. 
Saturday - TE was double overhead on the sets with a big crowd all over it, bit too much for us so we went east and surfed Point of Ness, awesome fun - about 5ft and reeling (mellowly) down the point, bit ruffled by the wind but hey.  Exhausted after 2.5hrs of paddling back up but don't think I duckdived once in that time
Sunday - TE was again pretty full on with big sets and guys out pulling 360 airs etc. so went exploring again.  Ended up surfing Murkle Point on our own which was really fun, if a little shallow and gnarly.  In the evening we surfed small sh*tpipes which was again really fun with long long rights
Monday - should really have headed straight home but checked TE and it was about 4ft with 2 guys on it.. so apologising profusely for zooing their wave with 4 of us we got it and I had another amazing session.  The drive home was pretty epic due to the A9 being closed but got in at 330am knackered but happy!

in conclusion - I wish Cornwall had more points and reefs, northern scotland is amazing and can't wait to go back sometime.  The locals were complaining that TE was busy on the Sunday when there were probably 15 people out - if that wave was in cornwall and working like it was there would have been 50+ people on it!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2014, 12:37:01 pm
Sounds like a good trip. Plus aurora! Did you go up and back on the east side? Too knackered for bouldering?

Try outer hebs next time. Best wave quality / crowd ratio in Europe I reckon.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 22, 2014, 12:49:00 pm
Sounds like a good trip. Plus aurora! Did you go up and back on the east side? Too knackered for bouldering?

Try outer hebs next time. Best wave quality / crowd ratio in Europe I reckon.
Yeah up/back on the east side, after surf Mon morning just wanted to take quickest route back (still 16hrs!).  Had a play on the bloc at Torrisdale (had to paddle across the river to get there) but wasn't anything special.  Also checked Farr bouldering but the swell was so macking there that the 'non-tidal' ledge was being washed so no go.
Ok outer hebs next time, although it was a enough of a mission to get to thurso to be honest!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2014, 01:33:01 pm
outer hebs actually easier to get to, ferry from Oban to S Uist (or even Barra) and then you are on island time!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 22, 2014, 02:23:26 pm
I had a sickening weekend being bombarded by tweets and texts about how good it was. Glad you scored it and got a few waves. TE is a special wave if you get it good.

Murkle is a good wave too but the left a bit further east (nothing lefts?) is better. So many waves when you get a swell like that.

A couple of mates from SA Chris home town surfed Torrisdale on Monday and said it was good.

Your last comment about crowds is probably the reason why us northerners get pissed off with groups coming up from Cornwall. 15 people IS busy, especially on the reefs and they wont handle many more people. When pasties turn up they just think is quite so all paddle straight in.

If you remember its not Cornwall and that 15 is a crowd you will get on fine up here and Scotland.

And re the Hebs i disagree with Chris about the surf, its much better on the north coast, more consistent and with better options for the wind. I have been to the Hebs a few times and its never lived up to the hype yet. Too wild and windy. Amazing place though but if your wanting to surf hit the North.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 22, 2014, 02:41:42 pm
Your last comment about crowds is probably the reason why us northerners get pissed off with groups coming up from Cornwall. 15 people IS busy, especially on the reefs and they wont handle many more people. When pasties turn up they just think is quite so all paddle straight in.

If you remember its not Cornwall and that 15 is a crowd you will get on fine up here and Scotland.

Yes fair point but to be fair whenever there were more than 6-7 people on a break we left it and moved on, plus when we did go in we made sure we didn't all paddle out at once and always gave way to folk already on it. 

My point was more an observation of how quiet these waves are, we never surfed with more than 2-3 other people in the water even on a sunny easter weekend with pumping waves
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2014, 02:48:29 pm
And re the Hebs i disagree with Chris about the surf, its much better on the north coast, more consistent and with better options for the wind. I have been to the Hebs a few times and its never lived up to the hype yet. Too wild and windy. Amazing place though but if your wanting to surf hit the North.

N Coast is better overall no doubt, but point I was trying to make was when you (well I) factor in the crowds I think Outer hebs sneaks it - plus the climbing is better when surf is off.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 22, 2014, 02:52:28 pm
Your last comment about crowds is probably the reason why us northerners get pissed off with groups coming up from Cornwall. 15 people IS busy, especially on the reefs and they wont handle many more people. When pasties turn up they just think is quite so all paddle straight in.

If you remember its not Cornwall and that 15 is a crowd you will get on fine up here and Scotland.

Yes fair point but to be fair whenever there were more than 6-7 people on a break we left it and moved on, plus when we did go in we made sure we didn't all paddle out at once and always gave way to folk already on it. 


Sorry Ben i didnt intend to come over critical of you. I was more commenting on how its easy for people from the SW to think its quiet up north as you are all used to the zoo like waves in the SW.
My point was more an observation of how quiet these waves are, we never surfed with more than 2-3 other people in the water even on a sunny easter weekend with pumping waves
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on April 22, 2014, 10:11:11 pm
Sounds like a good trip. Plus aurora! Did you go up and back on the east side? Too knackered for bouldering?

Try outer hebs next time. Best wave quality / crowd ratio in Europe I reckon.

I second that Chris... our little trip last week, only 3 surfers on the island I reckon and 2 were us :) fantastic waves once we found/sussed them with the winds.. surfed cliff twice on a mill pond in solid 4-6 foot with enough period to brew up between sets, one of my best sessions Ive had. So psyched to go back up there again. Plus some quality boulders found on Harris. Can highly recommend it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2014, 11:50:28 pm
Only person we met surfing on N Uist was the local plod on his bodyboard (i kid you not) I was temped to drop in on him but didn't!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 23, 2014, 08:51:27 am
Orkney might offer the best of both worlds...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on April 24, 2014, 11:58:40 am
many thanks gme - plus it seems to have a large bloc sat out the back in the dunes, bonus
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/johnwjohnw/100_0419.jpg)
Far far too long since I made that trip. Fangs for the memory jog. Some snaps:
Early (this was big)

Second low, dropping swell
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/johnwjohnw/100_0458.jpg)
Camp
 (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/johnwjohnw/100_0446.jpg)

Next day. Other folk turned up...
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d199/johnwjohnw/100_0432.jpg)

I was clearly too knackered to hold a camera, that or he's surfing uphill

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rich d on April 24, 2014, 04:57:25 pm
Sorry to highjack the thread with a newbie question. I've got 3 days coming up at the end of Sept and am getting to the age where I need to try surfing. Any recommendations for a warm(ish) place I can have a few beginner lessons and combine it with some beer etc. Cheap flights from the UK would be a bonus as well.
Cheers Rich
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on April 24, 2014, 05:10:42 pm
Good post that Rich (its on some vague list of things I want to try)- something I've always wondered is whether its worth having 'lessons' per se, or just doing what I usually do and blag some equipment and have a bash?

(I imagine I would be shit at it to be honest, no skill at skateboarding and moderate/low ability on a snowboard..)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2014, 10:55:11 pm
Assume you don't want to stay in the UK? Somewhere around Algarve / Peniche / Lisbon?

I only ever had any tuition once i had progressed to riding unbroken waves, and don't regret just hiring some kit, getting in with some mates, having a laugh and a go at it you can't come to much harm if you are aware of the hazards. Expect the flattest learning curve (of anything I've ever tried) but every little bit of progress feels fantastic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rich d on April 24, 2014, 11:33:33 pm
Thanks Chris. Portugal sounds good, but uk could be a possibility. Didn't really want to end up in Newquay though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2014, 08:23:11 am
Newquay is easily avoided, plenty of other beaches get good surf and have hire stuff available; Croyde, Bude, Sennen, etc etc etc. In fact hard to throw a stick in the SW and not hit a surf school. Can combine it wit h a bit of climbing too, just bear in mind skin gets soft in the sea, and "gritrash" stings like buggery in salt water. Septemeber is a good time too, the mob has gone home after summer, but often good waves, and water not yet too cold.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rich d on April 25, 2014, 08:51:41 am
Newquay is easily avoided, plenty of other beaches get good surf and have hire stuff available; Croyde, Bude, Sennen, etc etc etc. In fact hard to throw a stick in the SW and not hit a surf school. Can combine it wit h a bit of climbing too, just bear in mind skin gets soft in the sea, and "gritrash" stings like buggery in salt water. Septemeber is a good time too, the mob has gone home after summer, but often good waves, and water not yet too cold.
cheers, out of those (as I said I'm a complete novice) which would you recommend for an intro, would prefer it to be not too busy too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on April 25, 2014, 09:16:13 am
Peniche area in portugal is a good place to go. Better than the SW loads of surf camps and schools and very cheap. Cheap flights to Lisbon and they pick you up from the airport.

I have not been to the camps myself but have surfed there a few times. Consistent waves, warm water, sun and cheap beer. There is climbing nearby as well at Sintra but as Chris says they dont go together that well.

Just google Peniche surf camps and there are loads of options.

Most of the SW is a shit fight until the winter.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rich d on April 25, 2014, 09:29:36 am
Peniche looks perfect thanks for the recommendation.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2014, 09:32:32 am
out of those (as I said I'm a complete novice) which would you recommend for an intro, would prefer it to be not too busy too.

Based on a "nice enough" place to base yourself for a few days, plus a reasonably consistent mellow beach break in walking distance of town, I would say Croyde or Bude or maybe Polzeath? Or Sennen if you don't mind the extra drive.

I've not surfed the SW in over 10 years, and was definitely still a newbie, some locals may have better suggestions.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on April 25, 2014, 09:59:38 am
I'd second the above suggestions.  If you want to get out of the country then Peniche area would be good.  If you want to stay in the UK then the water is pretty much its warmest at the end of September and even in the SW it's started getting a bit quieter by then (admittedly not by Thurso standards gme  ;) ) and there are some good mellow spots with good pub/camping/etc setups.  As above, Bude, Croyde (would recommend Woolacombe next door rather than Croyde for a mellower wave with more space), Polzeath is a good call as its a pretty mellow wave and handles a crowd plus you can go and do Eroica !   Further west, Sennen is a good bet or Gwithian (nice campsite, pub and a surf school)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2014, 12:16:17 pm
I've not used any surf camps, but if you want to head for the continent, they are by far the most efficient way of progressing if you are time restricted and are happy to spend a bit of money. They will do airport pickup, sort you out with wetsuit and suitable boards (and can move you up to a better board as you progress) will feed you, get you to the beach and back, know what are good spots on a each day for you, make sure you are safe, and possibly do some classroom stuff / video feedback in evenings and feed you with minimum hassle.

Before you go though, and if you have time, it's worth getting in the pool a couple of times and do a load of crawl to get water fitness, and even practice getting to your feet from lying down (popping up - loads of youtube vids) to condition relevant muscles. Nothing worse than finally getting it dialled mentally, but being too tired physically to keep doing it (bit like climbing!)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on April 25, 2014, 12:23:52 pm
Oh crap. You mean I've got to be able to swim too? ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rich d on April 25, 2014, 12:39:03 pm
Oh crap. You mean I've got to be able to swim too? ;)


So I can't train for this on the beastmaker?  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2014, 02:58:26 pm
You can try, but I'm not sure it's buoyant enough. A polystyrene float is probably better.

Also heed Hong Kong Stueys warning from a few pages back. This surfing shit is addictive.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigtuboflard on April 25, 2014, 03:26:48 pm

You can try, but I'm not sure it's buoyant enough. A polystyrene float is probably better.

Also heed Hong Kong Stueys warning from a few pages back. This surfing shit is addictive.

If it's anything like kitesurfing then I'd agree, each small improvement is a milestone and you spend a lot of time checking wind and surf forecasts, tides and booking holidays around the best beaches :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on April 25, 2014, 04:45:03 pm
getting to the age where I need to try surfing.

Never mind swimming, warm up with a few essential dvds...


Quote from: Point Break
INT. DAY. SOCAL SURF SHOPFBI AGENT JOHNNY UTAH (Keanu Reeves) is purchasing a garish, first-timer surfboard from a snotty but well-meaning SURF SHOP KID who appears to be seven years old.

Surf Shop Kid: Hey man, a lot of guys your age are learning to surf. It's cool. There's nothing wrong with it.
FBI Agent Johnny Utah: I'm 25!
Surf Shop Kid: That's what I'm saying. It's never too late. Hope you stick with it. Surfing's the source, man. Can change your life. Swear to god

(http://www.portlandmercury.com/binary/c31e/1337702143-surfingsource.jpeg)

I 'learned' in bloody scarborough when foot&mooth closed the hills. Brown sauce. 

Anywhere on the atlantic coast of europe in sept would fit the bill, though you don't need good surf when you're starting out.



Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on April 25, 2014, 04:52:58 pm
North devon wise as Ben suggests better off with Woolacombe, putsborough or saunton loads of room and easier waves to start out on compared with croyde where there is not much room and the wave is steep and fast.
Westward ho! Is similar to saunton.
Widemouth would be the best option down bude way, loads of good bouldering in the vicinity too!  Surf schools operate at all of the above.

Unfortunately surfing isn't something that'll click straight away, so many variables, wave size, wave type, tides, wind direction, swell quality, good conditions can make life a whole lot easier. When you're in the water, it's not just a question of catching a wave, you've got to be in the right place at the right time and able to read what the wave is going to do.  There is a lot to learn beyond the physical skill to paddle, stand up, keep you balance and turn.   Time in water and perseverance reap rewards but when it all clicks it is well worth the effort no feeling like it!

Alas all the main accessible beaches are a zoo in the sw during the summer months.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on April 25, 2014, 07:31:35 pm
Drive a 150 mile round trip on regular occasions over a number of years, to a blown out onshore hell of endless walls off white water in N Wales, freeze your tits off, smashing your face against endless walls of white water, never managing to get out back, go home completely fucked, and dream about endless walls of white water, wake up strangely happy and go do the same again. One day the white walls appear easier, the wind drops and you're soon out back.. and your turned into a smooth wall of green watching it growing in front of you, knowing that that's where you're about to go. Here endith the pain, eat  :shit: time to  :punk: or something like that. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 01, 2014, 06:05:48 am
(http://i.imgur.com/CEDl74r.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on May 01, 2014, 08:12:58 am
nice pic - that reminds me of a film I saw last month, North of the Sun, anyone here seen it?
Two Norwegian surfers spent several months living on a remote beach, surfing and just surviving in the cold really..

http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/movies/north-of-the-sun-two-norwegians-go-surfing-on-a-freezing-beach-20140427-37bzj.html (http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/movies/north-of-the-sun-two-norwegians-go-surfing-on-a-freezing-beach-20140427-37bzj.html)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 01, 2014, 08:16:02 am
I think its from Cradle of storms. Looks a great film and cant wait to see it.

North of the sun is fantastic as well.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 21, 2014, 02:30:29 pm
Wave garden for Snowdonia - wonder if it will make the waves busier or quieter in the long term?

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-27488485 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-27488485)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 21, 2014, 10:33:45 pm
I guess it'll be just like climbing walls. Not much change at the decent breaks, but the shit bolted breaks will be rammed.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Aussiegav on May 25, 2014, 08:56:15 am
looking for a 2nd hand board (5'10 x 20). something along the lines of like a Rusty T-Dwart.
anyone selling anything like this or know where i can look
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on May 25, 2014, 12:10:55 pm
Get a al merrick neck beard, had mine for a year and its the best board I've owned.   5'8x19 3/4, plenty of float still.  Also have a 5'11x 20 wizard sleeve pin tail that's good on big days.  Magic seaweed forums often have second hand boards as does secret spot.

http://community.magicseaweed.com/viewforum.php?f=7 (http://community.magicseaweed.com/viewforum.php?f=7)

second hand section on secret spot:

http://www.secretspot.co.uk/surfboards/second-handused/ (http://www.secretspot.co.uk/surfboards/second-handused/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 25, 2014, 03:52:38 pm
 You will pay a lot for rusty and merrick in uk even second hand. Probably cheaper to get a new one shaped by a local surfer. You could get a new one for 300 notes.
These short wide boards are the dogs however for average uk beach breaks. I surf a 5.10 dumpster diver 90% of the time now. Easiest board I have ever ridden in waist to head and half sloppy beaches. Not great on steeper reef type waves though.
I would have gone uk but I got it second hand off a mate who was back from America.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on June 02, 2014, 05:45:48 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/news/nonsense-at-the-right/6445/ (http://magicseaweed.com/news/nonsense-at-the-right/6445/)
 :jaw: etc
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 10, 2014, 02:52:34 pm
http://www.driftsurfing.eu/index.php/archives/12600#more-12600 (http://www.driftsurfing.eu/index.php/archives/12600#more-12600)

Nice bit of writing - although I've never had to surf Scabs, I guess it applies to many spots along the east coast.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 16, 2014, 10:37:03 am
I throw myself on the mercy of the UKB surfing massive it being many months since my last confession..

Thinking of heading to Portugal in September for a some swell fun.  Anyone have any suggestions for me and the missus?  Neither of us any great shakes but have seen some pretty dismissive reviews on Magicseaweed of some Portugese surf spots so was hoping to cut through the bullshit.  Been looking at Ericeria if that helps!  Cheers all!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 16, 2014, 10:56:29 am
Will you be hiring a car and / or equipment? Not been to Ericieira, but it looks like a good option. gme can fill you in with details.

Reminds me, Duma I still owe you some info?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: john horscroft on June 16, 2014, 11:51:59 am
Probably take body boards with us, could hire car - MagicS were reyt sniffy about Ericeiria!  But what do they know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on June 16, 2014, 12:50:09 pm
Algarve all the way. Stay Sagres for three or four spots in walking distance (not all 100% beginner friendly I should probably say), and more with a short taxi ride. Or stay somewhere like Villa da Bispo if you've transport and don't want to be by the beach, or Lagos if you want livelier. 

The main advantage of the Algarve is that you've south-facing spots for when west-facing are maxed, which may not happen in Sept, but you never know. There's boards for hire and whatever.

I've even clipped a few bolts an hour or so's drive away (not worth it, for me anyway.) And heard talk of guided mtb (but could not be persuaded away from the surf.)

Ahh. Must go back. 

(Editing to add that for me a huge advantage of Algarve is that Jet2 fly there cheap from the place that's on the lips of acronym fans everywhere: Leeds And Bradford International Airport.)


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on June 22, 2014, 01:39:30 am
i'd imagine this pleases a few surfing climbers down in the southwest:
http://magicseaweed.com/news/the-wave-bristol-wins-planning-permission/6495/  (http://magicseaweed.com/news/the-wave-bristol-wins-planning-permission/6495/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on July 18, 2014, 09:48:32 am
If you can get past all the 'super rad' comments, this is an inspiring bit of cinematography

http://petapixel.com/2014/07/16/incredible-video-documents-the-absurd-adventure-of-surfing-in-the-arctic-circle/ (http://petapixel.com/2014/07/16/incredible-video-documents-the-absurd-adventure-of-surfing-in-the-arctic-circle/)

not quite up there on the level of 'north of the sun' though, they were staying in a warm hut rather than some cobbled together hobbit abode..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on August 11, 2014, 06:25:55 am
France I love you - not only are you completely spoiled for rock but you also have this (taken last Monday morning):

(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3899/14696807369_e13fd47223_b.jpg)

Just back from a week in Capbreton/Hossegor and can't wait to get back again (following a week in the Dordogne, which also has some half decent climbing it seems)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Whyatt on August 11, 2014, 05:01:18 pm
Anyone in Sheffield could help us out with surfing want to try this got major surf phyche! Free weekends can chip in with fuel cost etc or any advice would be appreciated,also any good books with fundamentals understanding oceans etc would be great
Cheers Ian
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Palomides on August 12, 2014, 09:40:59 am
Uh-oh.

Just back from a week in Brittany, where I callously insisted that the kids and I did 5 days of surf school for the first time ever.

I fully expected to spend the whole time the wrong way up in the sea being concussed by my own board.

However, it turns out that surfing is easier to get started with, much more physical and much more fun than I expected (I know you all know this already).

Other things I wasn't expecting:

The Ecole Franais de Surf seems pretty good (at least at La Torche) - same model as the ESF for skiing, but a lot less standing around for beginners.

Looking forward to the next time...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on August 12, 2014, 03:00:17 pm
Where'd you go Palomides?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Palomides on August 12, 2014, 04:46:38 pm
Pointe de la Torche, near Penmarch in Brittany

(http://www.toocamp.com/imgs/campings/camping-bretagne-plomeur-la-torche-25382-1.jpg)

The surf school's between the two beaches. We had a week of nice little waves
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on August 12, 2014, 05:01:10 pm
Cool. I want to go back to Brittany...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Turboman on August 17, 2014, 09:02:43 pm
http://vimeo.com/m/103082729 (http://vimeo.com/m/103082729)
Just saw this on surfermag. First wave at 1.15 is mind blowing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 18, 2014, 10:17:01 am
any good books with fundamentals understanding oceans etc would be great

The Stormrider Guides have a good intro at the front, but if you want to go deeper, I recommend.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surf-Science-Introduction-Waves-Surfing/dp/0906720362 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surf-Science-Introduction-Waves-Surfing/dp/0906720362)

or a bit more detail

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surfers-Guide-Waves-Coasts-Climates/dp/0906720583/ref=la_B001KME3KA_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408353372&sr=1-4 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surfers-Guide-Waves-Coasts-Climates/dp/0906720583/ref=la_B001KME3KA_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408353372&sr=1-4)

Palomides and Stu, well jealous. Might be things going on on East Coast this week though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: ben on August 18, 2014, 10:27:11 am
http://vimeo.com/m/103082729 (http://vimeo.com/m/103082729)
Just saw this on surfermag. First wave at 1.15 is mind blowing.

that is unbelievable!   would be nice to see a normal-mo (not slow-mo) version of the wave for comparison though as although it's a ridiculously long barrel it's hard to judge when slowed down
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on August 19, 2014, 02:40:33 pm
any good books with fundamentals understanding oceans etc would be great

The Stormrider Guides have a good intro at the front, but if you want to go deeper, I recommend.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surf-Science-Introduction-Waves-Surfing/dp/0906720362 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surf-Science-Introduction-Waves-Surfing/dp/0906720362)

or a bit more detail

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surfers-Guide-Waves-Coasts-Climates/dp/0906720583/ref=la_B001KME3KA_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408353372&sr=1-4 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surfers-Guide-Waves-Coasts-Climates/dp/0906720583/ref=la_B001KME3KA_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408353372&sr=1-4)

Palomides and Stu, well jealous. Might be things going on on East Coast this week though.

this ones quite good too: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0824839544/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0824828917&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0X9GGV2D291SWQNZZ04G (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0824839544/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0824828917&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0X9GGV2D291SWQNZZ04G)

Chris - has been dismally flat since i got back to HK. We're in desperate need of a typhoon here...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 19, 2014, 04:02:09 pm
Same book Stu, just newer edition.

Few waves here, but apprently lions mane's jellies are about.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Whyatt on August 19, 2014, 07:38:41 pm
Hi thanks for the book knowledge , not much of interest from the sheffield surf massive bout getting out tho 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on August 19, 2014, 09:14:51 pm
Nice to get a few sessions in proper waves again. Solid waves yesterday and today not to busy and warm.
Tides are not great so not barrelling but beggars can't be choosers.

As Chris said lots of jellies but they are not to bad. Like a bad nettle sting.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 20, 2014, 11:04:07 am
Hope it lasts til tonight! Looked OK on way past this morning.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BobbyBear on August 20, 2014, 11:51:25 am
Praying for swell at hells mouth in a few weeks, another annual lesson  :no:, (I will get in the ocean more, I will get in the ocean more...) Surf and MTB Saturday, RAC boulders Sunday, unable to move Monday!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatneck on August 20, 2014, 12:49:27 pm
Quote
apprently lions mane's jellies are about

Indeed, this bad boy caused the Noodle (5) and me 45 minutes of nettle like stinging and tingling... Not too bad for me but the Noodle was in agony! Easily 3ft across and biggest I've seen on the Lleyn...

(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3872/14792364918_230219582b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ox9JJs)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on September 16, 2014, 06:15:58 am
my local spot in HK:

http://youtu.be/o8OVnqHIUbM (http://youtu.be/o8OVnqHIUbM)

unfortunately it was half the size of this when i was there before work and about three times the size (plus thphoon induced strong onshore with chaotic close outs) when i made it back after work...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatdoc on September 16, 2014, 09:15:32 pm
Pointe de la Torche, near Penmarch in Brittany

(http://www.toocamp.com/imgs/campings/camping-bretagne-plomeur-la-torche-25382-1.jpg)

The surf school's between the two beaches. We had a week of nice little waves

Love this place... Cycling in the dark before dawn from the campsite... With a few others.. Same guys every morning... For two weeks... Surf and body boards stuffed on / in bike frames, no lights.. No common language. Same focus. Line up of 6 to 8. Classic slow mellow wave, all getting their fair share.. Gets light, over the hill, sets the surf gold for those few precious minutes... Life event.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on September 22, 2014, 05:34:49 am
Big Wave Bay in HK actually lived up to its name for a change this past weekend...

(https://static.squarespace.com/static/5007d9ffc4aa2233ff322454/541f8004e4b08ff99b89f7d5/541f8064e4b0a0d6201b4031/1411350630139/210914%20Big%20Wave%20Bay_.jpg)

(https://static.squarespace.com/static/5007d9ffc4aa2233ff322454/541f8004e4b08ff99b89f7d5/541f82dce4b0968055cd7fbb/1411351262231/210914%20Big%20Wave%20Bay_-7.jpg)

(https://static.squarespace.com/static/5007d9ffc4aa2233ff322454/541f8004e4b08ff99b89f7d5/541f8896e4b0004bfbd16c7b/1411352738195/210914%20Big%20Wave%20Bay_-23.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on October 09, 2014, 12:14:36 pm
Hi all, have just booked flights to Lisbon 19th to 26th, looking for ideas about best places to stay? Me and the other half are prob best described as beginner /intermediate level. She's 5'2 and on a 6'6" fish, I'm 5'9" and on a 6'4" hybrid. Questions: where should we stay for suitable conditions? Should we bother taking the boards, or hire once there? Worth hiring a car? Anyone been and got any recommendations?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2014, 12:45:58 pm
Not been but Ericeira looks good, especially if you don't plan hiring a car; I think there's a variety of breaks in walking distance from town. I'd always hire a car if I can afford it, makes life so much easier, and if you are hiring a car and not getting shafted for excess luggage take your own boards. Plus you can get to the bouldering at Sintra on "rest" days :)

I think I promised to scan the pages from Stormriders on the area and send to you ages ago???? Are you away 19 to 26 October?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on October 09, 2014, 01:03:03 pm
Thanks Chris, yes 19 - 26 Oct. Flying easyjet, any one experience taking boards with them? Can find wind surf but not surfboards on the Web site
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2014, 01:16:31 pm
Shit, ok I'm off from tomorrow night until 16th, will try bring stormriders in to work.

http://www.easyjet.com/en/sports-equipment (http://www.easyjet.com/en/sports-equipment)

Doesn't specify size only weight. From what I've heard they are OK with carriage if you pay, but I would pack boards well, use bubble wrap if you can, and pipe lagging on rails.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 09, 2014, 04:04:03 pm
Hi all, have just booked flights to Lisbon 19th to 26th, looking for ideas about best places to stay? Me and the other half are prob best described as beginner /intermediate level. She's 5'2 and on a 6'6" fish, I'm 5'9" and on a 6'4" hybrid. Questions: where should we stay for suitable conditions? Should we bother taking the boards, or hire once there? Worth hiring a car? Anyone been and got any recommendations?

Stayed in Praia das Mas two years ago. About 1km from Praia Grande, which is the more famous beach and has a board hire place on the beach http://goo.gl/maps/Yv82n (http://goo.gl/maps/Yv82n) . Mas was a bit more sheltered and a less powerful wave if Grande was going off. Both beaches were almost deserted in May, so I doubt will be busy now. Several great seafood restaurants, accommodation should be easy enough to find. Quite quiet places, a few bars but not wild nightlife. Easy to get to from Lisbon (~40min) but I'd get a hire car, lots of great places to explore a short drive away. Sintra is amazing and has bouldering if theres no surf (there another thread on here somewhere about it)

We explored up the coast to Ericeira which was nice, although a much bigger, busier place, depends on what you like.

Area:
https://goo.gl/maps/RGxXK (https://goo.gl/maps/RGxXK)

Although I think his small cottage is full for that week, there's plenty of stuff on Ralph's page here to get you excited/make us jealous...
https://www.facebook.com/lisboncoastcottages (https://www.facebook.com/lisboncoastcottages)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 09, 2014, 04:02:52 pm
...quite a few threads on Sintra
https://www.google.com/search?q=sintra+site:http://ukbouldering.com/board (https://www.google.com/search?q=sintra+site:http://ukbouldering.com/board)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on October 09, 2014, 08:18:39 pm
The rip curl pro world camps is on at peniche when your out there. Worth a drive up for the day if you have never seen it. Check it's on first in the morning then drive up.

I put some stuff on here about the area a few pages back including a link to a friend of a fronds place out there. Beaches great where you are. Reefs at Ericieria are amazing only just up the road.

Looks like loads of swell on the way for you as well.

No probs with boards as long as you pre book.  Get them both in one bag

Hire a car 100%. Loads to see and do and you need to move about to get the best waves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2014, 08:15:00 am
Sorry, can't find storrider's anywhere :(

Good luck, hope you score!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on October 10, 2014, 10:33:54 am
No worries Chris, thanks for looking. Think the gf has sourced a copy anyway. Cheers for info all, going to look through it all and book stuff this weekend.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on October 12, 2014, 03:36:27 am
here you go:

(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2945/15507290631_65e0c6c060_c.jpg)

(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2949/15323857317_1fd8dcdc84_c.jpg)

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5604/15487280886_3f71c37507_c.jpg)

(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3952/15323531379_3981db9eff_c.jpg)

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5598/15323710250_b95e2d7abd_c.jpg)

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/15510451605_48cffc0d8a_c.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on October 14, 2014, 03:21:15 pm
thanks all. ummmmmmm do I need a credit card to hire a car??
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Evil on October 14, 2014, 04:40:33 pm
thanks all. ummmmmmm do I need a credit card to hire a car??

Though I've not hired a car in a couple of years, when I did, most companies do seem to require a credit card.  It would probably be worth contacting/checking companies' websites to find one which does not before you go. I went on a trip with a lot of students once, and was surprised at how few of them had a credit card (I think my bank just sent me one when I was 18). We had to scrape around to get enough credit cards to cover all the hire vehicles.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on October 14, 2014, 05:31:12 pm
For most hire car companies when you arrive they use it as a deposit - so they 'reserve' (for example) 500 of your credit limit for this purpose when you hire the car... A pre pay credit card might do the job - as long as it already had a fairly hefty balance etc..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 23, 2014, 09:30:32 am
You back yet?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on October 28, 2014, 04:58:49 am
Got back last night (after 4hour flight delay  :whatever: )
Ericeira is amazing, when we arrived this was the view:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10580152_562986243833145_1293862242820268252_n.jpg?oh=bd1515951d8b7e8908bf0b287702c78b&oe=54DDAF8F&__gda__=1424323301_55313653edebcb130241279ee95c1080)
However those sets were ~11ft and somewhat outside our limited skillset, so we went up the coast to peniche to watch the pros - first ride we saw was this: Florence Near Perfect Ride in Quarters (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qn0MIKoeWDw#ws)
those boys aren't bad at what they do.
It was high twenties centigrade, light off or crosshore wind, and 3-6ft all week.
Did have a look at the boulders around Sintra one afternoon, and they look amazing, but the temps and soft skin from the sea were not conducive to getting much done.
If I had to gripe, I'd say we weren't good enough to make the most of it, the smallest days were much more useful to us.
We stayed here: https://www.facebook.com/intothewave.hostel# (https://www.facebook.com/intothewave.hostel#)!/intothewave.hostel/timeline they were lovely, and great location - I took the pic above from the balcony of our room.
Oh yes, hired a car on debit card fine through indigo car hire who were very helpful, would recommend if you have no credit card.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 28, 2014, 09:23:40 am
Looks and sounds amazing. Bet you wish you'd got in the pool beforehand. Did you hire a car in the end, and think it was necessary / essential? How many beaches would be accessible without one. Likewise did you take boards?

Yeah, surfing and bouldering are not good befellows when it comes to skin.

I had an average session at Belhaven friday before last.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on October 28, 2014, 11:02:54 am
Yes hired car (see last paragraph above) could do without but from our hostel only one, or two at a push walkable with board etc. by hiring bikes with board carrier from hostel you could prob get to 4 breaks without much bother. Reckon much better to have car though, gives you so many more options. Yes took boards, again could hire if you wanted out there, but got both boards plus towels, wetsuits, in one bag, would have had to pay for another hold bag if not, so basically only cost us 20 quid extra.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 28, 2014, 12:11:42 pm
Sounds good, sorry missed the last line off your reply as the text had turned into a scrollable block for some reason?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on October 28, 2014, 05:32:31 pm
http://vimeo.com/m/108799588
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on October 30, 2014, 01:11:07 pm
Nice video of recent French barrels.. 

Euro Swells on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/110199636)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 30, 2014, 09:10:06 pm
The last three minutes.... Skillz.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on November 07, 2014, 08:51:49 am
After pottering around for a cold weekend in Newquay about 8 years ago,  I've always meant to have another go.  What better time than while travelling round Indonesia! Spent 2 days at Batu Karas which lives up to its name as one of the best beginner spots around. Really easy wave. We started off on the inside catching the 2-3 footers.  Later I went out to the point and caught one bigger one right at the Peak and rode it right to the beach. Not much power,  but green water all the way. This morning we went to Gerupuk on Lombok and progressed from the foam "easy surf" boards to a 7'6" minimal and a 1.5m wave. It was busy and much more tiring paddling so didn't ever drop at the right spot,  but got lucky in the white water as it receded and became pretty clean and gave a good long fast ride - the real board was way more agile and fun. The acceleration was way faster today - quite addictive!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2014, 09:12:19 am
Ad so it begins....

In the UK it will never be that easy btw.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on November 07, 2014, 09:19:03 am
I was worried that might be the case. My better half said the West cost of France is waay harder,  so add the cold,  the wind etc. And I can imagine the UK would be hard work. We should go out in the NE sometime though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2014, 09:51:40 am
My better half said the West cost of France is waay harder,  so add the cold,  the wind etc.
....the heavy wetsuit, the weaker waves, the shorter fetch, the crappy sandbars.... Definitely less crowds though. Sometimes.

But yes, I'm always up for it. Some mutual friends have been making vague threats to get in too. Banff is a good choice.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on November 07, 2014, 04:22:32 pm
No time like the present Fultonius... the west coast top to toe is looking good with even some poss good set ups for Wales. Long range could be really good middle next week/weekend.

(http://chart-1.msw.ms/wave/2014110706/750/1-1415415600-1.gif)

This is sunday, might even drag my man flued up ass to Wales for this. :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on November 10, 2014, 08:58:37 am
Still in Asia just now. Went out again yesterday and my beginner's luck ran out. Spent 3 hours getting sunburnt,  swelling seawater and getting pounded by numerous waves and a strong on shore wind. I think overhead waves were maybe a bit if a big jump. Did manage to catch one slightly smaller one but it it closed out on me after one turn. Ho hum.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 08, 2014, 10:38:53 am
Pipe masters will start tonight. Forecast for 2nd and third reef pipe for the next few days.

For anyone who has never watched this its properly gladiatorial stuff when its this size. The surfers really put the bodies on the line and take a lot of beatings. A much watch if you can and so much better to watch than just the edited highlights, where generally you just see all the glory and a few bad wipeouts.

I for one will be glued.

www.aspworldtour.com (http://www.aspworldtour.com) for the link. 6pm start  I think

 :popcorn:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 08, 2014, 11:32:10 am
Nice one Gav  :popcorn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2014, 11:43:28 am
http://magicseaweed.com/Thurso-East-Surf-Report/47/ (http://magicseaweed.com/Thurso-East-Surf-Report/47/)

Worth seeing, not sure I'd be in the water though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 08, 2014, 11:52:27 am
Was just about to post same...

(http://chart-1.msw.ms/wave/2014120806/750/2-1418202000-1.gif)

(http://im-1.msw.ms/eengine/ce_images/eedfdb7c6f2cb918/Ourhedsandthurso_960_463_s.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2014, 12:08:59 pm
I might even stay sober on Friday!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 08, 2014, 04:32:21 pm
Hopefully wraps into the east coast for the weekend. First northerly swell of the winter and finally some proper waves.

I am guessing other than a few spots it will be too big. Tow boys will be out at Mully and gills will be worth the walk over the hill.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 08, 2014, 06:45:48 pm
 Pipe not on. Waiting for swell to fill later. Should be on tomorrow.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on December 08, 2014, 09:21:07 pm
How about a 30 min documentary on pipeline to keep you going till the main event?  (Wipeout section at the end  :popcorn:)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCgd9Ji6aXo#t=1842 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCgd9Ji6aXo#t=1842)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on December 10, 2014, 05:32:38 pm
Looks a tad blown out
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-30416288 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-30416288)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on December 23, 2014, 07:47:13 pm
Christmas nightmare is upon me. Good swell, perfect winds for the best spot on east coast five mins from my door. And I have my wife's family with me all day. If I go it will be divorce, if I don't my dinners going to have a bitter taste.

Surfing does have a way of podding you off.

Pumping sun-tues though so here's hoping. Sunday looking XXL.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on January 07, 2015, 02:16:16 pm
nice little film some of you Scots surfers will appreciate:

The Hunt For Hipmasama on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/107942023)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2015, 04:36:11 pm
Guess that means me! Seen it, very cool.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 07, 2015, 09:54:30 pm
That's great, not too hard to work out where it is though! Pretty sure that was the crew we met on Hoy on the Longhope trip.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on January 07, 2015, 10:15:18 pm
I'll take it to mean me too, despite never having suffered in the cold in a wetsuit; well, except for the 5 years of my childhood doing dinghy racing...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2015, 10:45:20 pm
You're a fecking Chamonard!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatneck on January 22, 2015, 11:21:51 am
RIP...

http://youtu.be/N7HgJkVCHx0 (http://youtu.be/N7HgJkVCHx0)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on January 29, 2015, 08:24:05 pm
Evening fellow ukb surfsters,  in case you're not on the case, volcom pipeline pro is on live now in big pumping super clean conditions,  well worth a watch. :popcorn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on March 07, 2015, 02:25:42 pm
Came across this pic on a magazine which i thought some here will like  :bounce:

(http://www.chrisburkard.com/Surf/i-T4Zk7tj/0/XL/120101_BURKARD_53564-XL.jpg)

On googling the photographer found an eye-watering selection of spots http://www.chrisburkard.com/ (http://www.chrisburkard.com/)

Would the Sir care for a stroll of winter climbing in the morning followed by a surf session in the evening?

(http://www.chrisburkard.com/Surf/i-KpHXwC9/0/XL/120527_BURKARD_137393-XL.jpg)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on May 06, 2015, 09:21:42 pm
Some relaxing longboarding. http://www.tetongravity.com/video/surf/your-new-surf-crush-victoria-vergara
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatneck on June 10, 2015, 09:48:12 am
Grimy but ace...

http://vimeo.com/129868229
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on June 28, 2015, 12:35:23 am
some crazy waves slamming Indo and Western Aus right now - looking forward to the video footage:
(http://im-1.msw.ms/eengine/ce_images/eedfdb7c6f2cb918/msw1resize_960_615_s.jpg)

Have some friends on the Bukit and apparently its a great time for spectating  :o

http://magicseaweed.com/news/live-first-drops-of-the-indian-ocean-super-storm/7716/ (http://magicseaweed.com/news/live-first-drops-of-the-indian-ocean-super-storm/7716/)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 29, 2015, 09:21:10 am
That is one serious low pressure. Should fire up east coast SA too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: turnipturned on June 29, 2015, 09:33:27 am


On googling the photographer found an eye-watering selection of spots http://www.chrisburkard.com/ (http://www.chrisburkard.com/)

He has a great instagram account too, worth following!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 30, 2015, 09:12:36 am
http://magicseaweed.com/news/the-biggest-paddle-wave-ever-ridden-in-australia/7735/

How many times do you wince when watching this?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatneck on June 30, 2015, 09:34:01 am
 :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 30, 2015, 11:23:18 am
This is more to my liking. Not that i would go near them but i just find the "biggest ever" thing a bit tedious.

These must be among the "most perfect" though.

http://www.surfermag.com/photos/all-aboard-the-indian-ocean-express/#b6b414a9f1
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on July 03, 2015, 09:59:47 am
Lone surfer enjoying a break off of Croyde/Saunton Beach, North Devon.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3846/18753560903_3f6e1e32a3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/uzbUhX)
A Long Way Out (https://flic.kr/p/uzbUhX) by slack---line (https://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/), on Flickr
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 03, 2015, 10:22:07 am
Granticus? (unlikely I know).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on July 03, 2015, 11:06:09 am


On googling the photographer found an eye-watering selection of spots http://www.chrisburkard.com/ (http://www.chrisburkard.com/)

He has a great instagram account too, worth following!

Yes, i've been following him (not on instagram though, i never got round getting an account)

He also has a great video channel where he put a mini-docu about the trip where some of the pics above come from. I thought it was excellent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO7RRN-_LL4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO7RRN-_LL4)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: granticus on July 03, 2015, 07:12:48 pm
Granticus? (unlikely I know).

It was not I! Has been some lovely warm and punchy  surf first half of the week though, managed 3 days in a row at 3 different spots. :)   
Can't work out from the photo where this is... Downend point, Ralph's, Oysters, the reef?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2015, 12:32:45 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVXKdRazQRo#t=326

Not that I would travel for it, but even at half power it looks fun. Thought rides might be a bit longer though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 16, 2015, 12:45:04 pm
I was pretty exited about this but must admit to my dissapointment if thats it. They promised this.

A two-metre-high barrelling wave that starts at the centre of the lagoon, peels perfectly for more than 150 metres

Yet the video shows a 2 ft wave peeling perfectly for 20 m before backing off. I know they say its at 50% capacity but i am now worried its all over hyped. Looks perfect for learning but cant see me travelling to surf that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2015, 12:47:31 pm
Yeah,  think double capacity won't produce double the wave height?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 16, 2015, 12:57:20 pm
I agree. My understanding is they can only increase the speed of the "plough" not its size and therefore i cant see how they will make it 2m as promised. There will come a point where an increase in speed will mess it all up and also make it too fast to surf.

I can see how it will get a bit steeper and faster and maybe even barrel but not double in size.

Very disappointed. Being relatively cash rich and time poor i was quite happy to drive an hour and a half and spunk 80 for a few hours surf, but not for that.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on July 16, 2015, 01:02:29 pm
I don't think it looks bad at all? (but I'm shit). However maybe this is why the Bristol wavegarden changed technologies at what seemed a pretty late stage?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 16, 2015, 01:10:50 pm
Hawaii 2m or Brighton 2m?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2015, 01:13:08 pm
I agree. My understanding is they can only increase the speed of the "plough" not its size and therefore i cant see how they will make it 2m as promised. There will come a point where an increase in speed will mess it all up and also make it too fast to surf.

I can see how it will get a bit steeper and faster and maybe even barrel but not double in size.


Maybe full capacity means they will add a bit more water too and also increase speed? Still hard to see it reaching promised height.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on July 16, 2015, 01:24:08 pm
They take water from one of the lakes at the hydro station in dolgarrog that I trade for, will ask if its full yet and see if they know.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 16, 2015, 01:29:46 pm
I hadnt thought of that, i assumed they meant running it at 50%.

JB- Hawaii flat, NE 1-2 ft, Brighton 3-4ft and MSW 6ft*****. Never heard anyone ever say wave heights in meters.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 16, 2015, 08:58:46 pm
I just can't see how any artificial wave technology can possibly recreate surfing real waves.  The energy systems involved are just too weak in comparison to that created by solar activity and storm systems that create several hydrogen bomb levels of kilojoules over a longer time period.

A medium-long period swell that produces a decent wave even at small sizes moves a huge volume of water with a lot of energy behind the breaking face.  Even at size, these artificial waves might look right but are going to be weak as a kitten in terms of the energy transfer involved.  The pro-surfers engaged as part of the marketing are good enough to make a shitty beach break windslop look surfable (and I'm sure they're thinking "this is interesting but ultimately shit and I'm getting paid so I'll say whatever they want me too")

I'm happy to be proved wrong, but even at scale, the only thing I can see it being useful for is beginners learning to get to their feet and ride a short unbroken medium sized wave thus overcoming the steep learning curve required to actually ride a wave in the ocean.  Think: massive jugs in a ladder on a gently overhanging indoor wall compared to trad climbing on Cloggy or classic 6as in France & Spain; doling out the miles on a turbo trainer in your garage vs riding in the hills; dry ski slopes.  They're all total shit compared to the real thing.

I'm not holding my breath and the news reports so far confirm my low expectations.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2015, 10:13:45 pm
My only experience of artificial waves is the wave pool at Sun City, which releases a large volume of water from behind a sluice, and gives a surprisingly powerful wave, easily surfable (or body surfable). This is very different technology though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2015, 03:01:54 pm
Insect Overlord makes brief appearance on Pro Surf Circuit

http://metro.co.uk/2015/07/19/surfer-mick-fanning-fights-off-shark-attack-during-world-surf-league-event-in-south-africa-5303184/

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 20, 2015, 09:34:09 pm
Some speculation it may have been a Manta Ray flapping about and getting tangled up. 

Either way, a remarkable thing to happen.  I watched the interview with Fanning and Jules afterwards and both were clearly shaken and emotional.  There's not many professional sports I can think of where the risk of being killed or maimed by a wild animal whilst competing &  being watched by millions (or hundreds of thousands probably) is a possibility.  Something to bear in mind as the football season kicks off.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2015, 09:58:19 pm
His leash was in two? Not sure a manta ray could do that?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 20, 2015, 11:33:28 pm
 And unless rays have fucking big fins on there back as can clearly be seen in the footage I guess the speculators are wrong.
Looks terrifying.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 21, 2015, 09:56:59 am
Yeah, you can see the characteristic step in the tail fin in the stills. Experts are reckoning it was a baby, only about 2.5 m long.

Apparently J Bay was getting a bit crowded, should thin them out a bit. Visions of

(https://s.yimg.com/fz/api/res/1.2/UX52C.PcZP_v.3a4SfzrQQ--/YXBwaWQ9c3JjaGRkO2g9MzMzO3E9OTU7dz01MDA-/http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6109/6255662010_e28a1b778e_z.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on August 03, 2015, 06:48:31 am
If you thought longboarders hogging waves were bad...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xu-4N6Q4rFY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xu-4N6Q4rFY)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on September 21, 2015, 11:22:46 pm
If anyone ever plans a Fiji trip then i strongly recommend this place: http://surfingfiji.com (http://surfingfiji.com)

Not particularly cheap but is full board so not as pricey as you might first think and has quick (15 mins) access to tons of uncrowded quality waves on the Coral Coast and Frigates (about an hour away and [almost] as good as Cloudbreak) that will pretty much just be you and the guys sharing a boat with you.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5645/21284150930_3047b55975_c.jpg)

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5706/21461750162_49cdfcc4d0_c.jpg)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/763/21284973638_30a935b12e_c.jpg)

oh yeah - and the boat guy will normally pull out a camera so you get some pretty sweet holiday shots too :-)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2015, 10:19:22 am
Dick.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on September 22, 2015, 10:51:46 am
 :dance1:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on September 22, 2015, 10:56:21 am
a bunch more photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/96354628@N00/albums/72157658645356596 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/96354628@N00/albums/72157658645356596)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2015, 11:09:41 am
Dick
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on November 17, 2015, 06:23:03 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on December 18, 2015, 06:49:34 pm
I take back what I wrote earlier - looks like they've cracked it.  Amazing.

http://kswaveco.com/ (http://kswaveco.com/)

Wow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on December 18, 2015, 07:02:38 pm
I take back what I wrote earlier - looks like they've cracked it.  Amazing.

http://kswaveco.com/ (http://kswaveco.com/)

Wow.

Lets hope its better than one in wales!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2015, 08:57:46 am
Looks like worlds apart.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigtuboflard on December 21, 2015, 09:29:20 am
Back from a weeks holiday in Bali and thought I'd try out my limited flat water SUP experience on some waves so booked a session with the Rip Curl surf school. Ended up doing a downwinder whilst waiting for a squall to blow over and then spent some time on a nice mellow reef break of maybe 3 or 4 foot. First time I've ever tried it but was consistently catching waves and riding them out, and started to get the hang of using the paddle to stabilise yourself whilst turning.

All I can say is I loved it, one of those rare moments where you do something completely new, makes me want to try and get out next year again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on January 15, 2016, 01:18:41 pm
Some surf-pr0n for those who are getting a bit disillusioned with the whole big-wave-tow-in-cock-waving trend. He knowz how to cut a turn.

https://vimeo.com/151367434
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on February 25, 2016, 05:40:32 pm
The Eddie is on!  :popcorn:

Live on WSL website now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 25, 2016, 06:07:45 pm
Excellent - a nice tribute to Brock.  Timing couldn't be better.  Looks big and lots of swell.   :popcorn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on February 25, 2016, 08:56:40 pm
This is nuts! Closing out across the bay... the safety patrol gunning for the beach.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on February 25, 2016, 08:57:25 pm
Jet ski carnage  :chair:   :popcorn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2016, 09:13:22 am
Mid air collisions, big drops, hold downs!!

Great fun.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on March 23, 2016, 01:34:17 pm
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-devon-35855263

Some bling?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: miso soup on March 26, 2016, 11:36:17 pm
http://vimeo.com/14858098 (http://vimeo.com/14858098)

Apologies if this has been posted before, I mainly just wanted to post something so this thread comes up in my new replies bit...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on April 05, 2016, 11:28:01 pm
Apparently this is what happens when you go surfing when it's 16 below  :-\

(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12751071_1572269539762558_1166050885_n.jpg)

(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/12716499_1749758088585622_1102402349_n.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 06, 2016, 10:17:47 am
Fresh water though. Assuming Great Lakes?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on April 07, 2016, 10:10:12 am
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12751071_1572269539762558_1166050885_n.jpg)

Looks more like he's blown a seal.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on May 04, 2016, 10:18:05 pm
https://vimeo.com/164518103
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: miso soup on May 04, 2016, 11:03:38 pm
http://www.surfermag.com/videos/el-ninos-wake/#lfR7ZmYzz03qVAzG.97
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2016, 08:18:06 am
I'm supposed to be working!

While we're here though;

http://vimeo.com/164041048
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on May 05, 2016, 09:36:08 am
That Morocco vid is great.  My favourite type of surfing, big long walls, lots of speed and big open carves.   Had my mouth watering and thinking about flights!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on May 05, 2016, 10:27:22 am
He has an interesting style - he looks very upright and not "strong" - like any bump might throw him off, but then he seems to have a very fine balance and control so keeps it all clean and smooth. (not that I know anything about surfing....)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 05, 2016, 10:33:40 am
Did you see the previous one? Beyond belief:

https://youtu.be/NUAlptPGT_k

I'm almost glad this will never happen to me, as you'd have nothing left to live for...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2016, 10:54:03 am
I think it's the same swell and same beach as the one I posted the clip of. Sadly never made it to within 200km of the coast when I passed through.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on May 06, 2016, 03:43:52 pm
i'm sure he coulda tagged the lip in-between a couple of those barrels - slacker...  :P

HK has been duff most of the winter (and almost completely flat for most of the last month) so i'm gagging for a trip right right now
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on May 27, 2016, 10:12:02 am
Unconventional....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDi9uFcD7XI
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2016, 10:19:42 am
2 week holiday in Lanzarote booked, time to get fitness up. Likely to be pretty flat, but any warm water wave will be a good one!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 27, 2016, 10:49:39 am
Its rarely flat. Not like the UK.

A 1ft wave with a decent period will give you a more than ride able wave at Famara or San Jaun, especially on a log.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2016, 11:26:17 am
Yeah, we're staying at Club La Santa, so 10k from Famara. Can bike it and hire there if needed. Happy to log, be happy with anything TBH.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 27, 2016, 01:23:15 pm
I have stopped there a few times. You will feel like the most laid back, unhealthy overweight person in the world as its full of triathletes.

The only holiday place in the world where you have to get up at dawn to put your towel on an exercise bike not a lounger.

The slab at la santa and the left pick up lots of swell as well, righ outside the resort. Watch the urchins though they are bastards.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2016, 01:35:42 pm
Missus is now firmly in the tri camp!

I'll probably not take a board (flying Ryanair) so will be stuck with beaches that hire. The slabs and reefs around La Santa look a bit too full on for a punter like me anyway.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 27, 2016, 02:16:17 pm
Hire shop in La santa village and loads in famara.

Get in at Morro negro if it works its really mellow.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rich d on May 27, 2016, 02:18:36 pm
Missus is now firmly in the tri camp!

New one on me Chris but each to their own  :shag:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2016, 02:19:24 pm
I set them up, you nod them home.

Cheers Gavin, I'll check it out.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on May 27, 2016, 04:00:44 pm
Lanza: only been once in Feb last year but it's great once you get north of costa teguise or thereabouts and not at all what I was expecting - empty. Waves have a bit of smack to them and they don't really do flat like the n sea does flat... Famara is wall to wall hire shops and bugger all else. Worth taking reef booties.

[Off topic for this thread but msw related: if it does go flat hire a road bike. The mountain biking seems shite (unlike say on gran canaria), but a couple of days on the roadbike and I was beginning to see the point:  as in fantastic smooth empty roads, considerate, laid back drivers (yes really - not like gran canaria let alone the mainland), and loads of cyclists everywhere so totally set up for it. That said, Feb is peak season for winter training and their season's over now.  Also, check ahead to see if you need to take cycle shoes or can hire. Even less related, the Csar Manrique arty stuff and his austin poweresque house in lava bubbles is worth checking out. ]
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2016, 04:14:02 pm
CLS has MTB and Road Bikes to sue any time, need to take own shoes (and probably own helmet; avoid sweaty hire ones). Keen to give the MTB a shot at least, and maybe roadbike a bit. We've got a hotel on the south side for last few days, so keen to hire a car and explore a bit.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: johnx2 on May 27, 2016, 04:41:29 pm
...guys in bikeshops told me that mtbers tend to be disappointed, roadies impressed which squares with my experience. Anyway, you'll be too knackered from the surf...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 31, 2016, 03:39:48 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160531/8f950458b2946f2dae18c3331b7353eb.jpg)

I appear to have a barge in garage. 12ft quad fish. Came up cheap locally do have to at least have a shot...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on July 01, 2016, 05:38:00 am
more Fijian goodness - can't get enough of this place:

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7256/27731628530_a649e829e9_b.jpg)

(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7321/27731627790_f03cb8176a_b.jpg)

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7285/27731627970_ff973d9ba3_b.jpg)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7085/27731628160_f92f46734b_b.jpg)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7261/27731628760_c22f2c28c8_b.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 01, 2016, 08:46:39 am
twat
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on July 01, 2016, 03:37:19 pm
 8)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 01, 2016, 04:23:10 pm
Great pictures hongkongstuey. Is this in the cloudbreak area or elsewhere? Was it crowded?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on July 08, 2016, 01:18:53 pm
these are from the Coral Coast on the south of the main Island - google Frigates Pass. Its similar to Crowdbreak in terms of size/quality but with next to no one out - i had several long stints with just one or two of us in the line up and think the max i saw on any session (on the more local breaks at Serua) was about 10 people
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 08, 2016, 03:00:35 pm
Cheers, I thought it might be over that way by the land in the picture. Good to hear about the lack of crowds, may consider a trip another year. The only problem is the lack of beginner waves for the other half!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on July 10, 2016, 04:57:31 am
true - Pipe can be quite mellow if its less than 3ft but is still over shallow reef. Most other breaks i've visited are quite punchy. The place i stay (see below) does offer beginner lessons so guess there must be a few other user friendly spots too

highly recommend this place if you do think of going: http://surfingfiji.com (http://surfingfiji.com) - not cheap but super good and you basically spend nothing else whilst staying there other than your bar bill (i've been twice in the last year its that good) so in the long run its not as bad as you first think
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: chris05 on July 11, 2016, 11:49:14 am
Cheers for that. Looks amazing. I will put it on the trip list.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on July 12, 2016, 05:40:18 pm
Any takers?  :whistle:

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T6DmXvZWmYw/Up5-oiu6yCI/AAAAAAAABTA/JFg_P9xCmow/s1600/IMG_5874.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 25, 2016, 12:52:11 pm
...guys in bikeshops told me that mtbers tend to be disappointed, roadies impressed which squares with my experience. Anyway, you'll be too knackered from the surf...

And you were right. Did a mountain bike trip, routes were either flat jeep track, or rattly boulders and kitty litter or deep sand. No really enjoyable descents, and I'm too used to FS and didn't like hardtail much; old back injury ached for a while afterwards. Famara is a great beach though; even though it seems to always get onshores, as gme said, a couple of feet there has a lot more oomph to it than the N Sea. The slab at La Santa looked super shallow and sketchy with a local crew who clearly have it dialled. Morro Negro looked like it would have been good on a couple of days, but never got a pass and conditions aligned. Snorkelling in Arrecife is recommended. safe and easy access to the reef, and loads of sealife.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 28, 2016, 09:39:31 am
I'll just leave this here for your delectation.

http://vimeo.com/175289438
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on July 28, 2016, 11:15:55 pm
Nice!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 15, 2016, 07:32:03 pm
Take a gander at this. I'd be interested to see it on a large wave.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=h7XupqFOFSg&feature=youtu.be



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 15, 2016, 10:26:29 pm
Laird and his mates have been towing in on them for years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N01vrLwAWiM
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on September 15, 2016, 10:35:54 pm
Says it all really... It looked like a bag of wank back then and still does.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2016, 08:58:09 am
I think it looks quite fun.

No place in a busy lineup for them though.

http://www.carvemag.com/2016/07/jamie-mitchell-issues-foil-board-warning/#.V9ul3PkrK00
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: philo on September 25, 2016, 01:15:36 am
Hello, having been to Portugal a few times, both Ericeira and Sagres way (stay in Luz and drive over west coast)
I was wondering if anyone has been anywhere else in Spain/ Portugal?  I'm looking to go at Easter and I would prefer hot weather, well the other half would prefer hot weather.

On the list:

Portugal again, +  know the spots/ driving etc. - Weather can be variable, - crowds after 8am
Lanzarote? Never been, friends take their kites but I'm not into that so not sure.
Maldives? Expensive but looks decent.
Morocco?  Is it too dodgy in out of tourist areas?

Any other suggestions? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on October 01, 2016, 01:56:37 pm
just got back from Cascais and would recommend that for a trip (some of the spots at least) - also good for non surfing partners too as lots of sights to see:
Carcavelos - didn't really turn on whilst we were there but is supposed to get good
Estoril Point - only spotted this after a wasted morning at the above and it looked great, nice clean righthand point
Praia Guincho - some good waves but not that clean (and overrun with the mens WQS and women WCT whilst i was there)
Praia Grande - big, exposed and a bitch to paddle out (i had two completely failed sessions where i couldn't even make it out back). fun on the more mellow (<4ft) days though
Costa da Caparica - probably the easiest and most fun spot we surfed, super crowded as a result of this but a pretty mellow crowd

not been to any of the other spots you mention but always recommend Fiji (good uncrowded waves on the Coral Coast and cheaper than most Maldives package i've seen)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2016, 09:29:12 am
Lanzarote? Never been, friends take their kites but I'm not into that so not sure.

Sorry Phil I missed this. I had a couple of great surfs at Famara when I was there. Warm water, nice weather an always a wave; even though it's often onshore the waves have a fair bit of power behind them and seem to hold good shape. There are loads of other spots around the island, and it's small enough you can get from one side to the other for a day trip. I had a look at La Santa once or twice but it looked sketchy and shallow (to me) and apparently very localised. Morro Negro looked to have less people, and more laid back, but I never actually surfed it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2016, 10:12:38 am
http://vimeo.com/184455304

Sheer poetry in motion.

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on October 03, 2016, 09:19:44 pm
Lanzarote? Never been, friends take their kites but I'm not into that so not sure.

Sorry Phil I missed this. I had a couple of great surfs at Famara when I was there. Warm water, nice weather an always a wave; even though it's often onshore the waves have a fair bit of power behind them and seem to hold good shape. There are loads of other spots around the island, and it's small enough you can get from one side to the other for a day trip. I had a look at La Santa once or twice but it looked sketchy and shallow (to me) and apparently very localised. Morro Negro looked to have less people, and more laid back, but I never actually surfed it.
  Missed it too..  I have been to Lanza a couple of times and surfed all over the island.  It can get very windy but if there is enough swell there are nooks and crannies everywhere to get out of the wind.  Some of the breaks can be pretty heavy, the best break are the lava reefs/points which are liberally laced with urchins.  I reckon you need to be confident surfing above rock to make the most of it and don't put your feet down!  I enjoyed it there and had a lot of fun.  I was alone and paddled out alone, didn't get anything but positive vibes in the water but I have heard different from others.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 15, 2016, 04:26:16 pm
http://www.surfinglife.com.au/tv/15517-did-kai-lenny-just-upstage-the-entire-pe-ahi-challenge

 :blink:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigironhorse on January 11, 2017, 11:08:01 am
Just watched this for the first time:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIBgWI_BTyM

I'm sure anyone on here who is in to surfing has seen it but just wondered if anyone could recommend any other classic surfing videos for me to watch?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2017, 11:27:08 am
Scroll through this thread there are loads of links

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 11, 2017, 11:37:38 am
Best run of East coast surf in years at the minute. For the first time in 3-4 years i am having to put on a wet wetsuit.

4 good sessions since Christmas and i missed 2-3 others. Incoming from Friday for 3-4 days.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigironhorse on January 11, 2017, 12:32:10 pm
Scroll through this thread there are loads of links

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

Well obviously. But I thought someone might know 3 or 4 gems off the top of their head rather than spending god knows how long going through 121 pages.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2017, 12:37:43 pm
Sorry, I'll do it all on your behalf.

What you want then, old school big wave, new school big wave, just old school, or modern classics?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: slackline on January 11, 2017, 01:12:28 pm
going through 121 pages.

Change your forums setting and its only 61 pages. :clown:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigironhorse on January 11, 2017, 01:27:29 pm
Cheers.

I suppose big wave surfing classics. Anything entertaining/interesting for someone who knows relatively little about surfing. Ta
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2017, 02:07:43 pm
Some of my faves;

https://vimeo.com/14074949

https://vimeo.com/39821073

for a start.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: the_dom on January 11, 2017, 04:20:52 pm
Cheers.

I suppose big wave surfing classics. Anything entertaining/interesting for someone who knows relatively little about surfing. Ta

Dane Reynolds' Loaded - not big wave, but still pretty epic.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2017, 06:34:01 pm
Cheers.

I suppose big wave surfing classics. Anything entertaining/interesting for someone who knows relatively little about surfing. Ta

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh09vEGNrXc

A classic (it's actually terrible in a good way).

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: bigironhorse on January 11, 2017, 08:11:07 pm
Amazing, ta very much.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on January 11, 2017, 08:19:39 pm
I thought Chasing Mavericks was pretty good as far as mainstream surfing films go.  I liked the pre-internet - listening to the maritime forecasts and checking the charts - stuff.  You forget what it was like.. Gerard Butler did also paddle out to the shoulder for some scenes and got caught out by a rogue set.  Worth a watch.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2017, 05:25:42 pm
Non article from BBC

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWHm6VbiNIE

gme do you know Danny?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rossydoodle61 on February 03, 2017, 06:54:05 am
Pipe Pro is on.

https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.tv/live/AP-1Q3YX7XB91W11/volcom-pipe-pro
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rossydoodle61 on February 03, 2017, 06:54:45 am
Hahahaha, brilliant. I'm sure you can all work the link out...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 03, 2017, 09:23:38 am
funny!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: hongkongstuey on February 07, 2017, 01:22:14 am
some footage of my local break (not really doing much) over Chinese New Year - taken with my new toy:
https://youtu.be/iLFcFNqM5_Q (https://youtu.be/iLFcFNqM5_Q)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on February 28, 2017, 12:27:00 pm
Just in case anyone's interestes, on FB there's a live streaming from Nazare, by Garrett McNamara. Quite cool.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: rossydoodle61 on February 28, 2017, 03:38:58 pm
Just in case anyone's interestes, on FB there's a live streaming from Nazare, by Garrett McNamara. Quite cool.

I read this earlier.

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/jamie-mitchell-on-the-eve-of-the-atlantics-biggest-swell-this-winter-prepping-for-potentially-100-foot-nazar_145651/

Sounds bonkers.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Nibile on March 01, 2017, 10:40:34 am
Live stream again now, paddle in session!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 06, 2017, 02:47:06 pm
http://magicseaweed.com/news/exclusive-how-to-build-the-scottish-wavegarden/10300/

could be interesting. Get your artificial climbing and artificial surfing right next door to each other at Ratho.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: kelvin on September 21, 2017, 07:56:22 pm
https://youtu.be/hI4ZGbl7Jek

A couple of Swiss friends pottering around in Australia.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 21, 2017, 09:45:28 pm
Not thought about surfing all summer and hardly been in the water. Autumn is coming though so started to check forecasts a bit. Fingers crossed for some swell.
Did find this though. Surfings version of the climbing wall and the reason they have been pushing for Olympic inclusion.
Totally amazing.
http://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/273096/live-blog-from-lemoore-the-test-at-surf-ranch
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: A Jooser on January 09, 2018, 08:07:14 pm
https://youtu.be/_mlnUwc0_Ks
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: kelvin on January 10, 2018, 09:20:21 am
That's cracking.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on June 29, 2018, 08:59:46 am
The Andy Irons documentary should be out in the UK soon as its just been classified by the BBFC.

He was a big part of what i feel was the golden era of surf comps when the surfers were all pretty wild and behaved like rock stars. Very different from today where, like climbing, its all a bit to professional and "nice".

He was not the most pleasant of characters at times and a full on aggro bastard at others but he totally charged on a surf board and was an utter joy to watch. And he was a competitive animal and the title battles between him an Slater through the early 2000s had me glued to my screen at all hours of day or night.

He died of a drug OD on his own in a transit hotel coming back from a comp. it was pretty common knowledge he had some drug problems but It wasn't until sometime after that you started to hear about all the mental health issues he had which i think this film will get into a lot.

I really think this will be a good watch for anyone even if your not a surfer.

Trailer here.
https://www.carvemag.com/2018/04/andy-irons-kissed-by-god/
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 20, 2018, 04:51:09 pm
Might be teaching egg sucking here, but Jersey is definitely worthwhile for a summer family surf / rock / holiday. Even in flat calm forecast, on the tidal push there is a surfable longboard / SUP wave at St Ouen, and its great for kids on boogie boards. Might be a bit limiting if you are up for a performance wave though, but i think it's the worse time of year for that. Even though most were in wetties, I was in in shorts and a rashie for a couple of hours and felt fine, guess it's about what you are used to. Great bays on the south side of island for paddleboarding with or without kids. or calm water swimming. and the east coast seems reliable for kite boarding if that's your thing. And rock everywhere. And tons of things to do.

Not much cheap in the way of accommodation, but that's the price of admission i guess.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dunnyg on July 21, 2018, 10:57:33 am
Good knowledge, I've been looking for a chilled surf /rock combo place. Is there board rentals out there? Flying with rack rope and board always seemed like a pain.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: cheque on July 21, 2018, 06:34:04 pm
I really think this will be a good watch for anyone even if your not a surfer.

You could be right- Im not a surfer and after watching the trailer Im interested in seeing it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2018, 03:27:59 pm
Good knowledge, I've been looking for a chilled surf /rock combo place. Is there board rentals out there? Flying with rack rope and board always seemed like a pain.

Yes, can't throw a stick at St Ouens without hitting a hire place / surf school. Most have everything from fat foamies to a limited selection of hard boards. Can avoid schools though, beach is enormous. Food here is great too http://www.elticojersey.com/menus/evening-menu right on beach
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 05, 2018, 01:32:47 pm
Big step change going on in competition surfing this week with the 1st comp in an artificail pool. New format meaning every surfer gets to ride the same number of waves in a heat 3 lefts 3 rights and there best left and best right count.
No more random lack of waves to blame if you loose etc.
Each wave is exactly the same and the surfers have had time to practice so i guess its heading in a gymnastics type format which may make it a bit boring in the long term but i guess there will be some amazing airs and combos going off to start the likes of which we have not seen before in comps.
Biggest change ever in a sport i think, it will now become a legitimate olympic or Xgames sport as you can do it anywhere.

http://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/345408/surf-ranch-pro-schedule
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 05, 2018, 02:26:22 pm
Mixed feelings..

out goes - waves selection, positioning, reading wave

in comes - level playing field, consistency and reliability, no waiting period for competitions.

As far as participation goes, parallels with indoor climbing are too numerous to make.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 05, 2018, 02:33:35 pm
Personally i am interested to see what its like and do think it will be exciting for the 1st couple of times but overall think it will be boring. Much like watching the gymnastic rings or vert ramp.

I think the minutiae of scoring will get to a point that your average person cant tell the difference.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on September 05, 2018, 03:10:03 pm
For me there is heirarchy of comps that goes something like this...  Good surfers in rubbish natural waves = mega boring, good surfers in artificial waves = boring, good surfers in good natural waves =  :popcorn:

In all seriousness, I think it will be tedious (the Snowdonia comp was).  You cant beat the excitement that the unpredictability that nature brings.  Big pipeline, epic Cloudbreak, Big Sunset... always will be way more interesting to observe.  Of course you cant guarantee good waves though can you but would rather watch the great and good going for it against nature any day.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 05, 2018, 04:10:46 pm
Well you are going to have a bit of time with your foot up watching?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 05, 2018, 04:32:10 pm
For me there is heirarchy of comps that goes something like this...  Good surfers in rubbish natural waves = mega boring, good surfers in artificial waves = boring, good surfers in good natural waves =  :popcorn:

In all seriousness, I think it will be tedious (the Snowdonia comp was).  You cant beat the excitement that the unpredictability that nature brings.  Big pipeline, epic Cloudbreak, Big Sunset... always will be way more interesting to observe.  Of course you cant guarantee good waves though can you but would rather watch the great and good going for it against nature any day.
Totally agree but when the surf is shit its really not good. The last Chopes comp a few weeks ago was just awful.
I dont watch as much as i used to as most of the personalities have retired and i find the new mob a bit saccharin sweet. I used to love the old days, seeing them stomp up the beach, hurl rocks at the judges then smash there boards up when they lost, not giving a shit what they said in the after heat interviews. Now its just some shite about learning from there losses and thinking one heat at a time #blessed. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on September 05, 2018, 05:22:59 pm
Well you are going to have a bit of time with your foot up watching?
ha ha..  well yeah..  My posting rate on here might increase a bit too.
My foot is well and truly up for a few days.. 
I will definitely have a watch but I suspect I wont stick with it, Maybe I will be surprised, Ill report back.

Chopes was rubbish...  Agree about personalities, Wilco is about the only interesting character left.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2018, 01:32:56 pm
Not seen the NNFN yet. Happy healing...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on September 06, 2018, 02:25:34 pm
Suppose I should NNFN my mishap.  Thanks Chris.  6 weeks till I can do without a cast if all goes well.
I am soooper syyyked for the WSL comp that commences at 4pm uk time today.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: galpinos on September 06, 2018, 04:17:24 pm
WSL have moved to equal prize money for men and women.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2018, 04:44:32 pm
As well they should.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on September 08, 2018, 09:26:00 pm
So I have given some time to watching the Surf Ranch comp, I lost interest pretty quickly.  Just seems so sterile and predictable I cant excited about it.  Would absolutely love a go at surfing there though! 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 08, 2018, 10:01:50 pm
Me too. Its really boring and conveyor belt.
Like you though I would love to surf it. I think it will take surfing up a level due to now being able to add repeatability into learning manoeuvres. Something thats never been available until now. Can see some stuff thats cutting edge being standard, especially air stuff.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on September 08, 2018, 10:19:37 pm
Roll in take off, each section of the wave is predictable, barrel, air section etc...  You could certainly get very good at manoeuvres very quickly with this kind of facility.  Was expecting to see a lot more above the lip action in the comp.

Interested to see what Occys multi-wave hub thingy turns out like.

To think all the hard yards put in, getting flogged, falling off, fluffing take offs, battling with whitewater etc etc..  just to learn to do a decent bottom and top turn, could have been avoided.
Although to be fair surfing decent long point breaks definitely has a positive impact on my surfing but they dont always switch on when you want them to...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 25, 2018, 09:52:27 am
First life in the north sea for god knows how long. Great session apart from one board to chin incident, looked like Desperate Dan last night.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on September 25, 2018, 11:53:31 am
Ditto down here. Couple of nice sessions but i wimped out of the main event for the 1st time ever. Double overhead and barrelling but old age and lack of water time sent me scurrying like a little scared child to a more sheltered spot.

If this is what being 50 is going to be like shoot me now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 25, 2018, 04:53:06 pm
Must admit I chickened out of the shifting overhead point in the middle of the bay after backing off a couple and opted for the smaller but more consistent reefy section. the guys who were playing the percentage game in the middle were missing most, but taking off on some right monsters when they got it right. First time in the water in Scotland this year.

If you end up on a SUP now you are 50 I will happily hunt you down and shoot you.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dunnyg on September 25, 2018, 09:41:10 pm
cant believe i was away for this. looks mint on the east coast. so. much. psyche
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 26, 2018, 10:26:43 am
3 days in a row, unprecedented.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on November 26, 2018, 08:41:41 pm
Good surfers? Check.  Insanely good and big waves? Check.  Potential for serious carnage? Check.  Jaws Challenge @ Peahi is on live now..  The surfing equivalent of E10  :popcorn:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on November 26, 2018, 09:15:43 pm
....and now theyve called it off for the day because its too dangerous  :ras:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 27, 2018, 09:39:16 am
I watched some of the comp at Nazarre the other day, the commentators made it impossible to sit through.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: fatneck on November 27, 2018, 11:21:16 am
Quote
and now theyve called it off for the day because its too dangerous

Yeah came to this for the last set before they called it off. Insane conditions!!!

Replay here...

http://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/361715/jaws-challenge-big-wave-tour-round-1-heat-1-full-heat-replay
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on February 19, 2019, 11:48:54 am
Bit of a advice s'il vous plait? Wondering if you guys suffer from broad shoulders/arms as a side effect from climbing and struggle to find good fitting wetties, and how you go around it?

It's high time for me to get a new suit, and the combination of age and not going out as regularly as i'd like due to distance from the water means i'm not in the shape i used to be, and with the winter suit i seem to use most of my energy fighting rubber rather than making progress paddling though what feels like treacle, so thinking about playing it smart with my next suit.

So, are there any brands more generously cut around the shoulders and forearms that you use? Worth going up a size and have to deal with the longer torso? Is a chest zip really worth it over the misery of putting it on and off (always hated them, so stayed away from them)? Going down to a 4/3 and just deal with the cold (surf mainly in the SW and not too affected by the cold, but occasionaly visit the south coast and NE)? Just MTFU?

Thanks!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 19, 2019, 12:11:54 pm
I've got fairly wide shoulders pretty skinny and fairly tall (6ft 2) and find the XCEL LT (Large Tall) size to fit me pretty much perfectly.

All I can recommend is going to a shop with the best selection, and fighting into and out of as many as you can. PS wearing nylon socks helps when putting them on.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dunnyg on February 19, 2019, 12:52:18 pm
Good nylon sock knowledge
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: neilslim on February 19, 2019, 12:55:20 pm
I've an O'neill psycho in a large tall, after having the same problem with sizings - made it much better. As Chris has said above, try as many on as possible - also pushing your limbs through with a carrier bag on your foot/hand makes it alot easier to get them on!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on February 19, 2019, 01:28:17 pm
Xcel is one brand i have always had to have a pass on as i don't fit in any of their standard sizes according to their charts, they seem to favour the 'skinny and tall' type.

Heightwise i'm about an S and possibly scratching onto the MS, but chest size i'm ML at 100cm. They do an MLS in America which would be perfect but can't be had over here  :'(

Their sizing may be a bit funny though. I got a pair of their 1.5mm gloves in a large going by their charts which came ridiculously loose, so exchanged them for  mediums. After a couple sessions they still felt big, so ended up with a pair of Small which fit like a, err..., glove. Go figure

Neil, is the psycho better because of the stretchiness or the fit? Wondering because i'm eyeing up some Vissla which are on sale and they are supposed to be tailored to fit like O'Neil, so there could be a punt there.

You are both right about the trying them on first, but i'm a cheapskate who only really buys on sale discounted suits and don't want to be 'that guy' who goes into a shop to try suits with no intention to buy them. Not clever and only me to blame, but 1 or 2 hundred quid difference goes a long way!

P.s. Good call about the nylon socks/plastic bags.

Edit: Anyone interested in a pair of medium 1.5mm infiniti gloves? Used twice, going cheap, never pissed on them. Ha, ha.  :wave:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 19, 2019, 02:40:22 pm
Things where i don't buy online and bite the bullet on full price; wetsuits, ski boots, usually rock shoes.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: neilslim on February 19, 2019, 04:36:06 pm
Fit for me - I tried on quite alot in scarborough/k10 Bay, and whilst I wanted the patagonia fur lining, it just wouldn't fit...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 28, 2019, 05:01:57 pm
https://magicseaweed.com/news/bodyboarder-dies-in-canary-islands-as-all-time-xl-swell-hits/11295/

jaw -> floor
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Andy W on June 09, 2019, 03:56:04 pm
Nice vid, bit different.

https://surftech.com/blog/watch-craig-andersons-the-quieter-you-are-the-more-you-hear/?fbclid=IwAR1xcoARt53USLc-9ckMbPwcI4I734Vcd5bid23kj8e3IegCsQOxU6tE9ks
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: andy popp on July 07, 2019, 10:14:35 pm
I just read William Finnegan's Barbarian Days in a 24 hour binge - I'm sure everyone here has already read it, but what a great book. The parallels with climbing were very strong. There's a great passage early on where he talks about how as 13 year old in Hawaii he was left to surf all by himself or with friends, exploring his physical and mental limits, learning about the ocean through trial and error. That reminded me of my start in climbing. I first went out with my brother, who had probably only been climbing a few months, thereafter me and my friends were largely on our own (though there was a school teacher who sometimes took us out as well). I suppose that was typical and hopefully is still sometimes the case. I guess it can make for a very powerful learning process.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dunnyg on July 07, 2019, 10:29:09 pm
Ill put it on the list! Whilst ive got a good decade and a half on him, im really enjoying solo trips to the seaside and seeing what I can get away with. Its not hawaii, but feels pretty wild out there sometimes. It feels like when I started climbing, just trying stuff and seeing what works and what doesn't. Must have been pretty out there at 13 in hawaii!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 09, 2019, 12:04:19 pm
Fantastic book. My copy has gone through most of my family members, who are non surfers and they all loved it.

Anithesis of Slater's Pipe Dreams, dull as fuck.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 15, 2019, 09:15:11 am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHWBDtfVgeY&feature=emb_logo

For the next time you consider moaning about cold feet in the surf..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on March 28, 2020, 08:20:28 pm
Being so close to the ocean but being unable to enjoy it is a little frustrating, mind you its flat right now...  This looks good for a little escapism -> https://lockdownsurffilmfestival.com/
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 03, 2020, 03:22:30 pm
Things could always be worse. Could be one of these guys

https://youtu.be/fPotea6V4MM (https://youtu.be/fPotea6V4MM)

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2020, 09:30:26 am
Being so close to the ocean but being unable to enjoy it is a little frustrating, mind you its flat right now...  This looks good for a little escapism -> https://lockdownsurffilmfestival.com/

Missed this. I feel your pain, I can see it from my window. Have to drive 10 mins for surf beach though.

Thanks for link
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on May 08, 2020, 07:14:17 pm
Looking like 4 days of pump next week on east coast. Going to be difficult not to go in this time and general feeling up here is a lot are going to do the same.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on May 08, 2020, 10:13:24 pm
Looking like 4 days of pump next week on east coast. Going to be difficult not to go in this time and general feeling up here is a lot are going to do the same.

Unusual low pressure for the time of year apparently - Thames barrier is going to close on Sunday / for the first time ever in May....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: teestub on May 08, 2020, 11:07:41 pm
Wow thats some big swell!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dunnyg on May 08, 2020, 11:33:06 pm
Looks boss.  :'(
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 12, 2020, 03:05:44 pm
Be careful out there, especially if you've not been in the water for a while!

https://magicseaweed.com/news/five-surfers-killed-in-holland-last-night/11882/
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on May 12, 2020, 06:49:23 pm
Oh wow. Drowned in sea scum...  :o That's pretty full on, and sad
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 03, 2020, 11:43:46 am
First pre-work surf yesterday in I don't know how long. In water by 7:45, lovely sunny clean waves, only half a dozen people in. Out by 9, on morning call by 9:30. 15 minute to the beach, thank god for non-existent rush hours.

Also in new suit, finally replaced the GUL i bought in 2002 after I pulled the zip off on Sunday. Warm and really comfy by comparison, but a lot more slippery than the old one, a bit more wax required.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 03, 2020, 02:07:52 pm
First pre-work surf yesterday in I don't know how long. In water by 7:45, lovely sunny clean waves, only half a dozen people in. Out by 9, on morning call by 9:30. 15 minute to the beach, thank god for non-existent rush hours.

Also in new suit, finally replaced the GUL i bought in 2002 after I pulled the zip off on Sunday. Warm and really comfy by comparison, but a lot more slippery than the old one, a bit more wax required.

See, this is the (big) downside of being in Torbay (actually worse than getting the car window put in again last night, for the third time in as many years).

I finally picked up my board, from my parents attic (where Id put it when I went to Dubai) at the end of last summer, with the intention of getting out this year...
No chance.
I suppose it must go off in the Bay, sometimes, but never when Ive been free.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 03, 2020, 02:38:00 pm
In theory i guess it could, but I've never heard of it being any good, too sheltered. Closest recognised spots are Chally and Bantham
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on July 03, 2020, 10:10:13 pm
First pre-work surf yesterday in I don't know how long. In water by 7:45, lovely sunny clean waves, only half a dozen people in. Out by 9, on morning call by 9:30. 15 minute to the beach, thank god for non-existent rush hours.

Also in new suit, finally replaced the GUL i bought in 2002 after I pulled the zip off on Sunday. Warm and really comfy by comparison, but a lot more slippery than the old one, a bit more wax required.
Missed it all here, went to my office in sheff for the first time in months.
The difference in a new suit and a 2002 one must be amazing. They are so much better now, but be warned they dont last, I was going through one every winter when I was surfing a lot.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2020, 09:19:12 am
Had a good day at Sandend (The Moray Coast one) on Tuesday. Was mostly windswell, so not spotless, but some nice open faces, not too busy and sun was shining. 3 sessions in a day, last one finishing at just before 11 as it was getting dark.

So happy with new suit. I don't surf much, so it will hopefully last. It's a Rip Curl Dawn Patrol 5:3 Back Zip. And I have my XCEL for winter.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2020, 09:32:46 pm
https://wavelengthmag.com/behind-the-scenes-on-the-endless-summer-the-true-story-behind-the-greatest-surf-movie-ever-made

Interesting read. Watched the film so many times, makes me strangely nostalgic for a time I never even knew.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fiend on August 03, 2020, 08:46:10 am
https://www.theguardian.com/australia-news/2020/aug/02/close-encounter-mother-and-calf-humpback-whales-stun-surfers-at-sydneys-manly-beach --- a good day to be a surfer  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2020, 08:02:10 am
Magic. I've surfed at Muizenburg near Cape Town with dolphins going one way up the coast just behind the line up and whales going the other, not that close though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 11, 2020, 12:33:00 pm
Yeah, we're staying at Club La Santa, so 10k from Famara. Can bike it and hire there if needed. Happy to log, be happy with anything TBH.

If anyone is planning a Lanza trip any time, Club La Santa now has a bouldering room

https://www.clublasanta.com/en/sports/bouldering
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2020, 10:55:53 am
https://magicseaweed.com/news/gallery-nazare-goes-xl-for-opening-day-of-the-season/12125/

swell to watch this week.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on October 27, 2020, 12:23:08 pm
Mega swell headed this way tomorrow.  13ft @ 18secs.  Accompanied by SW gale force  though.  Super sheltered spots should be fun to epic though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: tomtom on October 27, 2020, 12:25:14 pm
Mega swell headed this way tomorrow.  13ft @ 18secs.  Accompanied by SW gale force  though.  Super sheltered spots should be fun to epic though.

Remains of Hurricane Epsilon I believe...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on October 27, 2020, 12:35:41 pm
Mega swell headed this way tomorrow.  13ft @ 18secs.  Accompanied by SW gale force  though.  Super sheltered spots should be fun to epic though.

Remains of Hurricane Epsilon I believe...
yes but it has combined and joined forces with another low pressure system, gaining strength on it's way across the Atlantic.  The figures are pretty exceptional, it's been several years since a similar swell event.  I'm on half term and have acquired enough brownie points to have a day out checking and hopefully surfing some rare gems. :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2020, 12:39:41 pm
A certain point near you should be amazing BtB?. Mate was in at Puts last week, said it was silly big, and he doesn't scare easily.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on October 27, 2020, 01:41:29 pm
A certain point near you should be amazing BtB?. Mate was in at Puts last week, said it was silly big, and he doesn't scare easily.
its been big recently but this is next level...few more well known spots will be on, though the obvious one doesn't like any west in the wind.  I'll be off somewhere where SW is offshore.





Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 13, 2020, 09:31:29 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QVedTOKVyE&feature=emb_logo

I thought this was fascinating, how this wave has developed. The footage is just nuts too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on November 30, 2020, 09:55:25 pm
Not sure if this has been shared before. A great short on the history of surfing in Scotland from the lads themselves.

 https://vimeo.com/291446918 (https://vimeo.com/291446918)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: turnipturned on January 19, 2021, 10:41:42 am
This is totally mental. White Jet Ski got psyched...... too the moon!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93DeYIjUXu8&feature=emb_title
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on January 19, 2021, 10:54:35 am
saw that on IG earlier, crazy! that moment at 2 mins when they all see it...!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2021, 11:12:57 am
It's brutal, looks like passenger broke his back.

https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/jet-ski-mayhem-super-swell-saturday/110052
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: turnipturned on January 19, 2021, 11:25:46 am
saw that on IG earlier, crazy! that moment at 2 mins when they all see it...!

From what I can gather, I think that was the team on the black Jet ski (one before). Not sure what happened to the white (full send) jet ski? probably hasn't landed yet!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Snoops on January 19, 2021, 11:28:42 am
This is totally mental. White Jet Ski got psyched...... too the moon!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93DeYIjUXu8&feature=emb_title

Thats crazy! Thx for posting
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duma on January 19, 2021, 11:42:58 am
saw that on IG earlier, crazy! that moment at 2 mins when they all see it...!

From what I can gather, I think that was the team on the black Jet ski (one before). Not sure what happened to the white (full send) jet ski? probably hasn't landed yet!

theres a vid on chris' link from one of the guys on the white ski, sounds like they were ok
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2021, 12:01:07 pm
That aside, the waves are mesmerising to watch though, rising out of deep water like mythical beasts. Next few days are going to be very interesting out there.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 19, 2021, 01:03:38 pm
That aside, the waves are mesmerising to watch though, rising out of deep water like mythical beasts. Next few days are going to be very interesting out there.

They are the kind of waves you dream about, big open ocean things with a massive face. Always preferred that kind of wave to short fast brutal slabs but not something you really get in UK.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2021, 02:05:40 pm
Dream for you, nightmare for me!

On a smaller scale, had waves like occasionally at Llangennith once, and on a bigger day at Traigh Iar / Sollas Beach on North Uist. Actually hard to paddle into, need to give it all (well I did) and have positioning perfect.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 19, 2021, 04:55:59 pm
Guess there are waves like that in Ireland but not East coast. The big Yorkshire points can be similar as can a few spots up here but not that full on shift open ocean stuff.

Surfed a few bombies in Indo that were amazing, hellish to get into with a take off spot shifting all over the place but if your in the right spot at the right time they are pretty easy to surf. I found them much easier on my back hand than the fast hollow waves.

I think surfing those big things like in that video is all about fitness and balls and you dont have to be the best surfer to do it. You get quite a lot of older "watermen" type guys doing it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2021, 05:01:37 pm
Indo was always on my wishlist but must admit, I never really got to the level where I could do it justice, and accept now I never will. Never put in the time to get to a competent shortboarder level.   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on January 19, 2021, 05:09:41 pm
Thats what everyone thinks when actually its full of amazing beginners to intermediates waves.

It ruins UK surfing though as i struggle to be bothered now other than the 10-12 good days a year we get. Getting to old for the cold.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2021, 05:19:46 pm
Yeah, sure it's amazing, still hard to justify, I've always chosen a reasonably priced Alps trip over surf. And get some waves on occasional days a family summer holiday to Canaries or the like.

I hear you on the cold water, this time of the year it needs be very very good for me to be motivated to get in.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Snoops on January 20, 2021, 11:20:40 am
Not quite not on the above scale, but piss funny, looks nice and quiet......

https://www.liveleak.com/view?t=umiNM_1611064802 (https://www.liveleak.com/view?t=umiNM_1611064802)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: turnipturned on January 20, 2021, 11:53:14 am
Thats what everyone thinks when actually its full of amazing beginners to intermediates waves.

I had a mega ten 10 days in Bali. Some great intermediate waves, like Padang Padang (beach) and pretty inspiring seeing places like Ullawatu and Balangan (not sure I would call that an intermediate wave) firing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 20, 2021, 12:21:28 pm
Indo was always on my wishlist but must admit, I never really got to the level where I could do it justice, and accept now I never will. Never put in the time to get to a competent shortboarder level.

I felt like that the first time I rocked up in Sri Lanka.

But, you get plenty of easy days to work your way in. In a lot of ways, once youve mastered the drop, its easier to surf a consistent, steep, reef break. No point in head out for a week or two though, youre going to need a month or so get anything from it.
Edit:
Actually, I meant to say, I highly recommend Sri Lanka for a family holiday (somebody spoke to me as I was typing). The temples and jungles and elephant etc are great for all ages. Buddhist Sinhalese in the South are so friendly and now the war is over, its very much worth the trip. Beaches are stunning and the Divings pretty great too.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: seankenny on January 20, 2021, 07:21:43 pm
Actually, I meant to say, I highly recommend Sri Lanka for a family holiday (somebody spoke to me as I was typing). The temples and jungles and elephant etc are great for all ages. Buddhist Sinhalese in the South are so friendly and now the war is over, its very much worth the trip. Beaches are stunning and the Divings pretty great too.

I'm somewhat biased as my better half is Sinhalese, but yes, Sri Lanka is brilliant for a family holiday. It's superficially similar to India but without the horrible levels of poverty and in-your-face touts and scammers, so you get to enjoy the South Asian experience without limbless leprotic beggars tapping on your car window which I imagine could be upsetting for a child. As Matt says, the temples, jungles and ellies are mega, if you have never stood side by side with an elephant and looked into the eyes of what is clearly another intelligent creature, then you are in for a treat. The historical stuff like Sigiriya and Anuradhapura is pretty cool too.

I can't comment on the diving or surfing, but as well as the coast I really love the central highlands, all hill stations and tea plantations. It's cool/cold at night too, which can be nice if you tire of the humid lowlands. Don't be deceived by the island's apparent smallness, getting around can be tiring as the driving style tends towards the fatalistic. The capital Colombo is a bit boring and, since most UKBers won't have an array of in-laws to visit, worth getting out of quickly. Sri Lankan food is excellent, not always spicy (particularly if it's catering to foreigners), good for veggies and lots of sea food.

Mmmmm, I am definitely overdue a trip...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 02, 2021, 01:39:12 pm
I was chatting with Grant, yesterday, when he shared a very pretty view up Croyde way, about how the Cribbar was looking like it might fire.
It did.

 https://www.instagram.com/p/CKymEy4MoSo/?igshid=1hfif49jx3etk (https://www.instagram.com/p/CKymEy4MoSo/?igshid=1hfif49jx3etk)

I tried to paddle into this, February97, with the 76 semi gun I had brought back from Indo/Sri Lanka.

Nearly died.

Washed up in a Zawn on Fistral.

(Brutus, realised I moved to BCN autumn of 98, so must have been winter 97).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2021, 01:52:47 pm
Nutter!

More here

https://magicseaweed.com/news/exclusive-watch-three-days-of-carnage-as-the-cribbar-awakens/12258/

Everything facing Atlantic must be going off.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dunnyg on February 02, 2021, 02:30:16 pm
That looks insane.  :blink:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on February 02, 2021, 09:33:56 pm
Croyde beach was out of control on Sunday afternoon and yesterday .. Oysters the outside bomby about a km offshore was working through most of the tide (usually only breaks on low tide Big swells).  Solid Lines to the horizon groomed by a strong offshore.  Very impressive to see but not something I wanted to get involved with. I saw a friend who is a very very good surfer whilst I took the kids for a walk at the point and he wasn't up for it but there was 3 locals in there.  He got a solid barrel on the beachie, in the morning before it got out of control and got snapped in action. I'll share some links to the action in a moment.  20 sec swell period at one point  :o
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dunnyg on February 02, 2021, 09:51:10 pm
20 seconds!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on February 02, 2021, 09:59:25 pm
For those on FB, this was Croyde on Friday when the swell was still only on its way in

https://scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/145038626_10165403771975455_5322245551689085547_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&ccb=2&_nc_sid=825194&_nc_ohc=BuYXgk6hHtoAX-x0_GW&_nc_ht=scontent-lht6-1.xx&oh=7d687f371720524c40dc0d83fa01bfb3&oe=603EDD64

And this was it yesterday...  :jaw:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/aplaceinnorthdevon/permalink/3846312082100519/

Oh, and talking of outer reefs, Zorba looked mental! (This pic is taken from more than 2km away with a paltry 560mm lens)

https://scontent-lhr8-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/145225709_10157701975951990_3688815041734217516_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=2&_nc_sid=825194&_nc_ohc=cpbOIoBkYK0AX_n5wkR&_nc_ht=scontent-lhr8-2.xx&oh=14af9e330ebcc2c28d459290de97fe17&oe=603DF951

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2021, 10:01:23 pm
Bonkers. Sandwood and Eoropie are showing 18 second period. There must be shelter spots firing all up the channel.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on February 02, 2021, 10:11:34 pm
There's a photo at the top of my Instantspam page and a video panning from the point through Ralph's and onto Saunton in my highlights here: https://www.instagram.com/brutusthebear/ (https://www.instagram.com/brutusthebear/)
Lot's of highlights on Nick Lloyd's Instantspam:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CKwQbLgg-W2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/p/CKwQbLgg-W2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
Getting destroyed: https://www.instagram.com/p/CKrcWLVHk-3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/p/CKrcWLVHk-3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
https://www.instagram.com/p/CKrYxlyHNR2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/p/CKrYxlyHNR2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
The 'unknown' surfer in this pic is Jack whom I take some of my pupils out with on Friday mornings in the warmer months. Getting pitted on Sunday morning before it got out of control.
https://magicseaweed.com/photo/404373/album/c406e949c024ccfba82f0be33fa52382/ (https://magicseaweed.com/photo/404373/album/c406e949c024ccfba82f0be33fa52382/)
It was BIG!:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CKwWXx3AREL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/p/CKwWXx3AREL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
I'm biding my time for a smaller more friendly point break later in the week when all the pros have noodle arms and need a rest!


Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on February 02, 2021, 10:17:52 pm
It was the biggest waves I have ever seen here, to live close enough to be able to witness in person was incredible.  My children were mesmerised, just stood there mouths open staring.  The power of nature!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2021, 10:38:18 pm
https://magicseaweed.com/Aberdeen-Beach-Surf-Report/41/

Looks like east coast is getting the monster waves on weekend. Will be utterly unsurfable, but I'll definitely be out with the camera down the cliffs. Looks like Weathergeddon!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on February 02, 2021, 10:57:13 pm
https://magicseaweed.com/Aberdeen-Beach-Surf-Report/41/

Looks like east coast is getting the monster waves on weekend. Will be utterly unsurfable, but I'll definitely be out with the camera down the cliffs. Looks like Weathergeddon!
Wowsers!! Huge swell, howling onshores and snow!   Should be fun.  I guess the most special thing about the swell that hit down here is that it wasn't accompanied by the usual onshore gales.  Any east facing nooks and crannies that it could wrap into Chris?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on February 02, 2021, 11:01:28 pm
Looks decent farther South in spots with a North aspect. There'll be a lot of sickies in the NE this week if the forecast holds

(https://i.ibb.co/FH8TNZh/Capture.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 02, 2021, 11:08:41 pm
First thought:

I wish I was twenty years younger with no responsibility, again.

Second thought:

Thank fuck Im not twenty years younger and I have obligations, now.

I lived from 75- 98 on that coast (near Polzeath) Ive never seen it that clean at that size.
Definitely seen bigger (I was watching the Scoppolus Sky come aground on Doyden point, with my Dad (the local copper),, that was massive. Worth reading about the lifeboat skipper, Trevor England, and what he pulled off that day, Hero. Nuts to watch, spray so bad the Helos had to put down almost 2 miles inland).

Edit:
Here, the RNLI account:

 https://lifeboatmagazinearchive.rnli.org/volume/47/472/the-greek-freighter-skopelos-sky?searchterm=Yacht+Gan&page=886 (https://lifeboatmagazinearchive.rnli.org/volume/47/472/the-greek-freighter-skopelos-sky?searchterm=Yacht+Gan&page=886)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on February 02, 2021, 11:15:37 pm
Looks decent farther South in spots with a North aspect. There'll be a lot of sickies in the NE this week if the forecast holds

(https://i.ibb.co/FH8TNZh/Capture.jpg)
Looks tasty.  A least there won't be half of Kernow invading during these times.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 03, 2021, 08:27:19 am
Wowsers!! Huge swell, howling onshores and snow!   Should be fun.  I guess the most special thing about the swell that hit down here is that it wasn't accompanied by the usual onshore gales.  Any east facing nooks and crannies that it could wrap into Chris?

There's the tiny beach in the corner just south of Stonehaven Harbour, but that's a bit sketch, it has the harbour wall right by it's side, might even be too big for that. Then there are a few little bays just to the south of Stonehaven, but they are unknown entities in these conditions. The point at Inverbervie can work amazingly in a strong northerly wrapping in, but in a strong easterly even that blows out. Might be a day for wrapping up, taking camera and going for a walk. Or just getting touring skis out and finding some fresh snow on sheltered forest tracks!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: gme on February 03, 2021, 01:05:47 pm
As per usual MSW has the winds wrong and they will be worse than they are forecasting. Pretty much howling easterlies all through the swell, to be expected as its the local winds causing it. An infamous, polluted right hander will be firing but the rest of the coast will be blown out mess.

Probably a window of about 4-5 hours at the end of it when a load of fickle spots will be firing though if your in the right place at the right time.

I have spent hours driving this coast in these kind of swells and always disappointed. We dont have the nooks and crannies you get in the SW. Aberdeen coast maybe better, i would have thought spots round Lossiemouth would work if the wind has a bit of South in it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on February 03, 2021, 01:34:48 pm
They would, but Lossie West beach (and Burghead) are, strictly speaking, out of bounds being in Morayshire.

Plus about 2 hours drive, covering some high roads which will be pretty sketchy in this weather, probably closed.

Will the little beach at Beadnell tucked in by the harbour produce anything? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 20, 2021, 12:34:34 pm
Interesting article about a new book Afrosurf on surfing in Africa. 

 https://www.theguardian.com/books/2021/apr/20/surfers-sharks-big-wave-africa-dungeons-afrosurf-heroes-cass-collier (https://www.theguardian.com/books/2021/apr/20/surfers-sharks-big-wave-africa-dungeons-afrosurf-heroes-cass-collier)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2021, 02:48:38 pm
Quote
waters filled with great white sharks,

Aye, right.

Otherwise, really good article, thanks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: A Jooser on April 20, 2021, 07:48:29 pm
By chance I read the following in the newspaper yesterday (behind a paywall online but the first few paragraphs give the gist)...
https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/great-white-bite-in-board-sparks-fears-for-south-african-surfer-robert-frauenstein-6jtb9rjqs

I've also recently been reading the fascinating, terrifying first-hand accounts of the soldiers who survived the wreck of the Birkenhead near Gansbaai in 1852. Apparently the locals still call great whites 'Tommy Sharks'?!

I was always sceptical that sharks could ever be much of a threat but maybe they do eat the unlucky ones!

Certainly an interesting article, Falling Down, thanks for posting it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2021, 10:17:15 pm
And don't forget the USS Indianapolis...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9S41Kplsbs

I sometimes wonder if we were lucky, but as kids we used to go on holiday on the Transkei Wild Coast and swim on any of the beaches and in the lagoons and river mouths which I know now are really sharky. Closest we got to one was hooking a 2 ft sandshark (spiky as hell) from a cheap rubber dinghy and one of us having to swim for shore with the line so as to not puncture the boat.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 20, 2021, 10:29:21 pm
And don't forget the USS Indianapolis...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9S41Kplsbs

I sometimes wonder if we were lucky, but as kids we used to go on holiday on the Transkei Wild Coast and swim on any of the beaches and in the lagoons and river mouths which I know now are really sharky. Closest we got to one was hooking a 2 ft sandshark (spiky as hell) from a cheap rubber dinghy and one of us having to swim for shore with the line so as to not puncture the boat.

A mate and I were surfing a beach break a few tens of miles down the coast from Lagos. A little way along, the locals were fishing. Big old outrigger with ~10 fellas paddling, a net ~60/80 mtrs, staked at one end.
We stopped to watch them as the sun set. The big Hawaii 50 out and back through the surf, in a semi circle around the stake and then a mob of locals haul both ends in.
There was a huge friggin Tiger Shark in the net.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 20, 2021, 11:44:00 pm
Erm... the book and article isnt really about sharks.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: A Jooser on April 21, 2021, 12:46:06 am
Indeed. In case anyone missed it, there was actually a photo essay on the BBC website a few months back about Senegal's first female professional surfer, Khadjou Sambe, (https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-53939596) who didn't really get a mention in that article.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2021, 10:49:43 am
Erm... the book and article isnt really about sharks.

Agreed sorry, just that line stood out. The rest is good writing.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on April 21, 2021, 11:07:46 am
I wasnt having a dig. Just thought it was worth mentioning  :)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2021, 12:31:21 pm
Since when has any topc on UKB not wandered off

Quite like this story too

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/world-australia-56798218
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fiend on May 04, 2021, 10:12:09 pm
Talking about Aussie surfers being reunited with things...

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-australia-56979429

Quote
"The shark isn't getting its tooth back [and] I'm not getting my leg back."
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2021, 08:33:41 am
Wonder what the rules are now in South Africa? We went to the Sharks Board (responsible for maintaining the nets on the beaches) on a school trip and each got given a small shark tooth as a souvenir. There were about 40 of us.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2021, 09:29:46 am
Anyone find popping up annoys tennis elbow? Had a long stretch in the water on Saturday, and it's felt a bit tweaky on right arm ever since.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 17, 2021, 09:38:10 am
Anyone find popping up annoys tennis elbow? Had a long stretch in the water on Saturday, and it's felt a bit tweaky on right arm ever since.

Were you cold?
That used to irritate mine, more than specific movements.

Anyway, not sure if this shouldnt be in the nnfn, but I put my winter wetsuit on yesterday (back zip, 20 years old) and did my usual, Billy no mates, trick of wrapping the zip strap around a door handle and doing a squat to zip up.
Bit stiffer than usual, because my Lats and pecs are a bit bigger this year.
Frigging zip exploded. Beyond repair.
I had to admit the damn thing just doesnt fit anymore and its pointless getting it repaired. Its around 30% patches and glue too.
Damned expensive for a 5/4! WTF!
Anyway, ordered a front zip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2021, 11:04:31 am
It's the North Sea, cold is default. Was in for about 2.5 hours, and it was pretty overcast, and a chilly breeze.

I had the same with zip going on my old GUL suit last year, came off in my hand as I was about to get in the water. Managed to get it back together for the session, but prompted me to replace, I got it in 2001 or so, so was due an upgrade, and new suit is like a cocoon of comfort by comparison.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on May 17, 2021, 12:45:01 pm
It's the North Sea, cold is default. Was in for about 2.5 hours, and it was pretty overcast, and a chilly breeze.

I had the same with zip going on my old GUL suit last year, came off in my hand as I was about to get in the water. Managed to get it back together for the session, but prompted me to replace, I got it in 2001 or so, so was due an upgrade, and new suit is like a cocoon of comfort by comparison.

Had my first ever attempt at a surf in Scotland last week - climbed Am Buachaille and went round to Sandwood Bay for a few hours. 4 boards between six of us, and I was in a 20 year old 3x3 short sleeved wetsuit.... aaaah, the bracing chill of cold shock and wooden arms!  The one wave I nearly popped up on my arms were so weak from the cold that I only wobbled to a half stand before bailing out the back seat. Fun day but not very successful on the surfing front!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2021, 01:41:37 pm
Nice one, stunning place, love to go back. When I was learning we surfed Oldshoremore in great waves in the morning (with Simon Nadin soloing above the water) and then walked in to SB with boards and climbing gearin the afternoon, was greeted with overhead closeouts, no-one in the water, and no phone signal. We bottled getting in, and opted to climb instead. Midges on the walk out were more of a hazard than the surf.

The water over that side is a few degrees warmer than the east coast too. If you are ever out this way to mobilise, are kicking about and want to get in, there is board hire on the beach now.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on May 17, 2021, 01:51:31 pm
Chris it's more likely to be the action of paddling, rather than popping up that is causing elbow issues. I had a surfing buddy that suffered really bad with this and almost quit surfing.  Standard rehab/prevention exercises apply or get towed in to everything.!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on May 17, 2021, 02:36:16 pm
Anyway, ordered a front zip.

Despite always being skeptical about them i got one a couple years ago so that i could have an in-built hood to get rid of neck flushes in my old age.

Didn't think much of them other than the pleasure of duck diving and coming out the other side without half the ocean inside the suit.

It did (does?) restrict the shouuders a little more as you get 2 layers of rubber there rather than one.
However there was a day i couldn't face getting into a cold and wet suit for the umpeenth time and grabbed my old and trusty back zip, and man, it felt like being in a straight jacket. I had never realised how much that zip in the back was restricting movement.

Ever since i'm a converted for front zip suts

Damned expensive for a 5/4! WTF!

Well get ready. They are ridiculously expensive now and the cheapos are not really worth it.  :'( Vissla might be worth a try in the semi-budget bracket. They are quality but it'll come down to fit. I got one which fits so badly that the chest lets water in by the buckets.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on May 17, 2021, 02:58:13 pm
Should be able to get significant discounts on winter suits 5mm + at the moment or very soon. (As we approach summer season and all the new summer models are being released). Wetsuit Outlet, Wetsuit warehouse or the likes..
Decent Wetsuits are generally much stretcher and more comfortable these days (even compared to 10 yrs ago. I'm a big fan of chest zips, less flushing, more flexibility in the back.  You get what you pay for to a point but there's definitely a point where you are just paying for the name or some new gimmick. 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2021, 03:13:53 pm
The rip curl dawn patrol 5/3 i got from Wetsuit Outlet is amazing compared to my old Gul as far as warmth, flex and general comfort go. Fortunately most LT size suits fit me perfectly, so not a lot of need to try many on.

Do you guys in the SW need to go thicker than that? I used to wear that old GUL with a polypro hooded rash vest in winter and it was OK with decent mitts and boots?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2021, 03:22:14 pm
Chris it's more likely to be the action of paddling, rather than popping up that is causing elbow issues. I had a surfing buddy that suffered really bad with this and almost quit surfing.  Standard rehab/prevention exercises apply or get towed in to everything.!

You're probably right, paddling a big log and hauling around an additional half stone plus probably doesn't help. Might just get a SUP.
(actually I'd give it up completely before it go to that)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on May 17, 2021, 03:32:41 pm
5mm with boots, hood n gloves are generally sufficient for winter in the SW. (Although I do have a 6mm with built in hood for extra cold days or trips up North, I wish.. .).   Gradually drop the gloves, then boots, then hood as it warms up... Still ice cream head temps at present but I have stopped wearing gloves.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2021, 04:06:39 pm
luxury. I switched from 7 mm lobster mitts on Saturday for the first time to thinner gloves (which leak a bit) and had cold hands for a bit. They need a bit of black witch again.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Fultonius on May 17, 2021, 07:20:29 pm
The rip curl dawn patrol 5/3 i got from Wetsuit Outlet is amazing compared to my old Gul as far as warmth, flex and general comfort go. Fortunately most LT size suits fit me perfectly, so not a lot of need to try many on.

Do you guys in the SW need to go thicker than that? I used to wear that old GUL with a polypro hooded rash vest in winter and it was OK with decent mitts and boots?

I've got a Gul 6/5 ish steamer with a fell cross-back drysuit style zip but I can only imagine that would be gash for surfing. It's also 23 years old (fuck I'm getting old) and has a few holes and rips. Might botch it back together for the rare occasion I go out - can always get something better if I end up getting out more regularly.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Probes on May 17, 2021, 08:34:42 pm
Ahh talk of Am B and sandwood  :kiss2: it's probably 20 years since, a few of us biked in, minimals strapped to the side of bikes, climbed Am B then spent 4 days surfing the bay with it to ourselves  :) Felt very exposed on the first paddle out, until got used to how it was all working.     I had a Gul suit back then, 5/4, froze my tits off. A few suits and years later, I've a 5/3 ripcurl front zip. I've surfed on Lewis in March in this and with a rash vest, was markably pretty toastie, so much so I de gloved a few times. Worth every extra . Even if it will probably only last a few years.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2021, 10:24:20 pm
I've got a Gul 6/5 ish steamer with a fell cross-back drysuit style zip but I can only imagine that would be gash for surfing. It's also 23 years old (fuck I'm getting old) and has a few holes and rips. Might botch it back together for the rare occasion I go out - can always get something better if I end up getting out more regularly.

I've got a 5/4 XCEL for winter, and the difference in weight and restrictiveness compared to the new 5/3 is enormous. Get a good idea of your size and if you keep an eye out, should be able to get a reasonable quality suit for circa 200, not too bad when compared to another new pair of climbing shoes. However I was horrified to discover you can pay 500 for a new suit if you wanted to..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 18, 2021, 08:26:20 am
I need my suit to be a bit more versatile. I expect to use it for diving, kayaking and long distance winter swimming/scrambling up cliffs.
I chose this one, which is being delivered today, on the recommendation of a couple of formers, for ease of entry, warmth and flexibility. The dit is that the zip doesnt restrict movement at all, whilst being dead easy to get on solo. Apparently flush isnt an issue either, but Ill know tomorrow.
This will be the first time I wont glue pockets on my suit (when diving or swimming offshore I carry a spare mask, a compass panel, knife and an smb/rest bouy (as well as my tow bag)). Ive ordered leg holsters (IST). I cant afford a quiver of suits.
I have a 3mm hooded vest (I cut that zip out and replaced it with velcro closure, much more comfortable) that I wear under it for long duration swims or general diving evolutions.
Not everyones cup of Java, but I have high hopes.

 https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/5mm-thick-wetsuits/products/waterproof-w1-5mm-wetsuit-mens#foo&gid=1&pid= (https://www.mikesdivestore.com/collections/5mm-thick-wetsuits/products/waterproof-w1-5mm-wetsuit-mens#foo&gid=1&pid=)

Edit:
I could have gone cheaper, but it was a fuck it, I want another 20 years out of this suit, so a little pain in the pocket now will soon be forgotten moment.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 18, 2021, 12:43:51 pm
Well, it arrived.
Very different from anything Ive had before.
I was told the Swedes really knew how to put a winter suit together and its actually kinda impressive so far.

(https://i.ibb.co/Xp2bZWs/F784054-D-69-C1-4-AE5-9-AF9-CD2-B7487596-A.jpg)

Ive never had suit so easy to get into. Spent several minutes doing Burpees in the living room. Never had such a flexible suit and no hint of chafing.

Looks weird:

(https://i.ibb.co/fHtVf8k/F171-D17-F-FEBC-4839-936-F-CA14627677-F9.jpg)

Because its, almost, lose, around the calves and forearms. Except, its not, its double layered to the knee/elbow!

(https://i.ibb.co/5Knn7xx/5691-D847-2-B38-4-A4-B-B55-C-E290-AF396394.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Nn4pJ9N/9527-A2-DD-7-F6-F-49-DE-B159-32-A5-A79-C4087.jpg)

All semidry cuffs and neck, but the anti flush neck gaiter seems pretty cool, I guess Ill find out.

(https://i.ibb.co/PrXf4Q5/140452-B0-E5-C7-4208-A2-C2-A2-F0-C2077679.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/yVbNX59/9-CA254-C5-E896-44-B0-85-DB-89-EA874-F09-D7.jpg)

I wasnt sure about the doubling thing, but I have issues with Reynaud syndrome and frostbite damage in my feet that has had me trying to keep as warm as possible for the last couple decades.

Anyway, plan is to fin from Babbacombe to Long Quarry tomorrow, scramble out there, climb the cliff path up to Walls Hill and run back to Babbacombe. Should give me a fair idea on versatility and comfort.


Oh yeah.

Its almost fucking impossible to get out of the damn thing again. Alone, it was like something out of the Saw franchise, though I did eventually click how...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 18, 2021, 10:30:31 pm
almost NSFW, clicking on it seeing a grown man dressed in black rubber
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 18, 2021, 11:27:43 pm
almost NSFW, clicking on it seeing a grown man dressed in black rubber

Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional.
I deny being grown, and only admit to being a large and weathered juvenile.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on May 19, 2021, 09:52:26 am

I was told the Swedes really knew how to put a winter suit together and its actually kinda impressive so far.


(https://i.ibb.co/4S0YRgj/140452-B0-E5-C7-4208-A2-C2-A2-F0-C2077679.jpg)

 :jab:

Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on May 19, 2021, 10:05:25 am
More seriously though. My first wetsuit when i started surfing was a cheapo swimming/diving suit which had a seam all along the front centre, and for the first year i had a permanent imprint/rash all along my chest and upper belly from paddling.

A friend of my mother's who noticed it when he took me diving took a couple of strips of 5mm neoprene he had for repairs and glued them on either side of the seam, which made it immensely more comfortable. You may want to consider something like it if you are gonna surf this suit?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 19, 2021, 03:32:32 pm
More seriously though. My first wetsuit when i started surfing was a cheapo swimming/diving suit which had a seam all along the front centre, and for the first year i had a permanent imprint/rash all along my chest and upper belly from paddling.

A friend of my mother's who noticed it when he took me diving took a couple of strips of 5mm neoprene he had for repairs and glued them on either side of the seam, which made it immensely more comfortable. You may want to consider something like it if you are gonna surf this suit?

It has a semidry zip and the flap is so soft there isnt any chafe. I am wondering about it getting choked with wax. I have a 3/2 steamer, long johns and a 0.5 steamer, all with front zips and they havent been an issue with the wax (rash vest sorts any chafe, I guess but I never really thought about it).  Suppose, though, when I use those surfing, there was less wax in the mix than a winter session, not likely to get one of those now though.

(https://i.ibb.co/JrZRcxR/BF1631-FD-A8-C8-4504-8487-D1-D9-ADB62-ECD.jpg)



I just prefer being able to get it on and off easily, alone, because I have no friends (or, Im a grouchy old git and prefer to be alone).

Anyway, the thing is the dogs gonads.

Had a slow bimble down to Babbacombe, half suited in a Dry Robe, to warm up, swam to Long Quarry point ( and quite happy with 11:20 for 1.2k towing a dry bag, because I wasnt even pushing myself, being the first swim of 2021 and because it turned out that by the end I was towing around 8 ltrs of water). Scrambled out on the rocks at LQP. Turned out my tow bag has a leak, so glad I didnt head off shore! Anyway, my DryRobe wasnt anymore and nor was my towel. Wallet was in a second dry bag and phone is in a diving case. Most importantly, my coffee was still hot in the flask. Not that I needed it, I wasnt even slight chilled on exit, despite serious ice cream headache on getting in! Still, unbelievably nice to sit and drink coffee in the sun on a ledge above the oggin.

Suit is too warm to run in.
So fast walk. Apparently a wet DryRobe, fins and ancillary kit, weighs in at just shy of 15kg, so by the time I got to the top of the 100mtr Grade 1/2 scramble up from LQP to Walls hill, I was too sweaty to contemplate breaking into a run...
NB, Gull wetsuit boots are crap on steep, wet, muddy slopes.

(https://i.ibb.co/gF9SV6X/0710-E9-E7-5253-4-DB2-8954-5-AC00-FB70-C97.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/Xx3f9L7/2-AE40-A05-F79-B-4-B9-A-8812-97-F434223-C38.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/9vJy8rR/2-E0-F0710-247-E-45-C9-B896-9-AD8-DFD2230-B.jpg)

Not a glassy, gentle offshore, all alone in the dawn over a tropical reef, with a perfect A frame just behind me, day; but pretty satisfying nevertheless.

Oh yeah, sea state 3 today, so choppy with a small swell (1-2).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Lopez on May 19, 2021, 10:49:38 pm
Ah, fair enough. Didn't think of the rubber behind the zip providing padding as opposed to just having a seam directly into the chest like i had. The wax wouldn't concern me much, but sand sticking onto the wax and grinding in would definitely be a concern. There's zips lubricants out there for diving suits and stuff, i think silicone or teflon based) might be worth the occasional dab or two to stop guck from sticking.

The suit does look pretty awesome though and the outing looks excellent.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2021, 08:58:11 am
Sounds fun. I still fancy doing a coastal traverse from Stonehaven northwards to Aberdeen, not been done AFAIK. walking where you can, traversing where needed, and swimming bits that can't be traversed, see how far i get.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on May 20, 2021, 12:52:53 pm
Have done quite a bit of traversing/swimming/walking through very inaccessible parts of the Exmoor Coast, loads of fun but not at the moment.... back on topic.. Massive swell arriving tomorrow along with gale force SWerlies, should be right good in sheltered spots though.  :bounce:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2021, 02:26:41 pm
Chris it's more likely to be the action of paddling, rather than popping up that is causing elbow issues. I had a surfing buddy that suffered really bad with this and almost quit surfing.  Standard rehab/prevention exercises apply or get towed in to everything.!

https://www.watersportgeek.com/surfing-tennis-elbow/

actually gets called surfers' elbow. Surprised I haven't had problems before...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on May 20, 2021, 06:40:35 pm
Contrary to what I said earlier it sounds like pop ups could be part of the problem too... Repetitive movements, overuse. I love the genius cure suggested in the article.. Stop doing it or do far less of it, that'll sort it out not what an enthusiastic surfer wants to hear.  :chair:
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2021, 10:16:14 pm
I know that towards the end of a session my pop-up is a sloppy mess, and  probably should have got out half an hour earlier.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2021, 09:21:40 am
https://beachgrit.com/2021/06/surf-ranch-pro-day-two-analysis-like-a-dog-coming-back-to-lick-its-own-vomit-the-mess-of-the-surf-ranch-has-an-irresistibly-vile-attraction-to-me/

Anyone watched any of the surf ranch comps? Anyone else find it pretty mundane?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 24, 2021, 09:33:31 am
https://beachgrit.com/2021/06/surf-ranch-pro-day-two-analysis-like-a-dog-coming-back-to-lick-its-own-vomit-the-mess-of-the-surf-ranch-has-an-irresistibly-vile-attraction-to-me/

Anyone watched any of the surf ranch comps? Anyone else find it pretty mundane?

Only clips on Insta.

Theyre nice to watch, as short bursts of clean wave surfing.
I suppose its a fair bit harder to switch it up, compared to indoor climbing and route setting. But I should imagine the potential for pool bottom topography to be programmable and almost instantly altered, is there (something as simple as pumping water into bags anchored on the pool floor, etc), so probably indoor surfing comps will evolve.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2021, 09:41:39 am
https://beachgrit.com/2021/06/surf-ranch-pro-day-two-analysis-like-a-dog-coming-back-to-lick-its-own-vomit-the-mess-of-the-surf-ranch-has-an-irresistibly-vile-attraction-to-me/

Anyone watched any of the surf ranch comps? Anyone else find it pretty mundane?

Only clips on Insta.


Most of those I'm convinced it's the same one I watched an hour ago!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on June 24, 2021, 10:20:58 am
So... so dull! I couldn't maintain interest in it.  In comparison to events at Fiji, Pipe, Teahupoo etc... once the novelty has worn off (this happens quickly) the Ranch is nowhere near as engaging. Nature provides a much more interesting experience (you have to wait for conditions but it's still preferable).

OMM there are wave pools where the wave can be tweaked. I believe they can control the release rate of water, (hydraulic system rather than the mechanical system used by the ranch).   Check this out,  http://youtu.be/3wBKpk7s3m8 potentially more interesting than the Slater pool.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2021, 03:17:44 pm
that blair guy can punt out crazy airs from nothing!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: A Jooser on March 16, 2022, 11:07:59 am
https://youtu.be/Gll66wp0O8A
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: James Malloch on August 23, 2022, 10:42:58 am
To all those surfing

If I had a lesson whilst in Cornwall, are you likely to get much done in 90 mins? Its something Ive always wanted to try.

Dont want to get into it properly but if, by the end of 90 mins, you might be able to actually do some tiny waves I might try to organise it.

As you are athletic (a good climber) I think you could expect to be standing up on whitewater (waves that have already broken) within an hour if you're on a big foam board.

For your first time i think you'd actually be better off without a lesson so that you have more time to figure it out and practice. Just watch a few youtube lessons beforehand and practice popping up on the floor. A lesson would probably be more useful when you want to progress to unbroken waves.

Treat it like projecting and be perceptive to what's happening. Nose dives while paddling in? Position yourself further back on the board. Etc.

[quotes author=SA Chris link=topic=32068.msg664877#msg664877 date=1661242504]
This ^ choose a relatively safe beginner's beach where you won't get into too much trouble (preferably lifeguarded) and give it a go the first few times. Plenty pushups / pop-up practice before and a bit of swimming beforehand would help. First time I rented a foamie I was up and standing after a few tries, but I had been bodyboarding for a long time beforehand, so able to read water and select waves reasonably well.

This should probably be in the "one for the surfers thread".
[/quote]

Thanks for the tips! I did wonder about just having a go so maybe thats the better option. Also cheaper and probably have a longer session and be able to take rests.

We will be down in SW Cornwall. Definitely going to Sennen one day which seems to have hire places.

Any suitable beaches around that area?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on August 23, 2022, 12:26:51 pm
Thanks for the tips! I did wonder about just having a go so maybe thats the better option. Also cheaper and probably have a longer session and be able to take rests.

We will be down in SW Cornwall. Definitely going to Sennen one day which seems to have hire places.

Any suitable beaches around that area?

Was at Sennen the other week and while it's pretty busy it might suit you just right, lifeguards and plenty of others just finding their feet... Gwynver is just over the way and quieter but also has lifeguards, definitely a more relaxed vibe tho...

The MSW app has great info on spots, conditions and tides so is well worth downloading...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 23, 2022, 12:52:39 pm
Most large west facing beaches will have guards and hire, just choose the one closest to where you are staying, except Newquay which is generally hoaching. This time of year finding a place to park (especially one that won't cost a fortune) and sometimes a hire place that still has boards available is the main challenge in the SW.   
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: colin8ll on August 23, 2022, 04:31:28 pm
...Don’t want to get into it properly but...

Go for it, but be prepared to get hooked! If you end up coming back for more after a taster session then I think you could teach yourself quite easily given the type of analytical skills you will have developed through climbing. I would recommend not focussing too much on trying to stand on the board and instead follow this approach:

https://youtu.be/lBZe92y1SfE (https://youtu.be/lBZe92y1SfE)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 23, 2022, 05:02:35 pm
Thanks, I was trying to remember the name of the videos. These are some of the better ones. Independentsurfer on IG is also quite good if you only have a ten second concentration span.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: James Malloch on August 31, 2022, 04:10:34 pm
Thanks for the tips/advice! I finally found a beach today which is dog friendly, had surf hire and was in the same area as us - Fistral Beach near Newquay.

The waves are pretty small (1-2ft) but there was enough to get stood up. Without any actual knowledge I think part of the reasons I didnt stay up for long were:

-Waves were small so broke quickly and close to the shore. It means that the whitewater bit was often on very shallow water so the tail fins hit the ground.

- small waves meant that the energy dissipated quickly so not much chance to take you far.

- there wasnt much pre-break wave which seemed surfable. So limited scope for standing up before they broke.

Anyway, plenty of excuses but it was great fun and I managed to get stood up quite a lot. Just didnt then manage to travel very far.

Id like to think with slightly bigger waves I could have more time between getting going and standing up to think about it and be a bit less rushed. Definitely keen to give it a go another time though!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on August 31, 2022, 05:07:01 pm
Well done, small mush is never easy, and no, you won't get long rides. Ideally you want them a bit bigger, but not so big you are struggling to get out back on the foamy yet.

A nice fast pop-up so you can control the board by moving backward or forwards can help though.

on IG follow chrishetem for some great tips too, especially longboarding
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on August 31, 2022, 11:57:00 pm
Been out of the Shire (N. Devon) for the last few weeks but I have been keeping an eye on the surf, as you do. 

Quote
-Waves were small so broke quickly and close to the shore. It means that the whitewater bit was often on very shallow water so the tail fins hit the ground.

- small waves meant that the energy dissipated quickly so not much chance to take you far.

- there wasnt much pre-break wave which seemed surfable. So limited scope for standing up before they broke.

Your assessment seems reasonable from what I could see in the forecasts/reports.  The Atlantic has been in the doldrums this summer, serving up weeks of flatness for the Grockels/Emmets to float about in.  In an ideal world the conditions you would want for perfect beginners surf would be a nice 1 to 2 ft groundswell (waves generated way out in the middle of the ocean that have travelled along way and have some power), with a period of 10 seconds or more, honed by a gentle breeze blowing offshore.  Sounds like you had 1ft of wind swell (locally generated waves with no power) combined with onshore wind aka 'mush'.  The surfing equivalent of 30C and full sun on a slopey grit test piece. 

If you have the means to hit the coast at shortish notice on a good forecast it's a good shout.  Magic Seaweed is great for forecasts.  It tends to be bigger way out west so if there is any swell going there'll be waves at Sennen that are larger towards Gwynver which is less sheltered than Sennen itself.  If it's out of control and massive down there it tends to be smaller further up the coast.  If your really getting into conditions consider that onshore wind can be offshore wind at a beach that faces a different direction.  Big swells can wrap around headlands and coastlines to produce smaller waves than the beaches directly facing the Atlantic...  Fingers are crossed for some decent swells this autumn.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2022, 07:32:35 am
You think the Atlantic has been in Doldrums, try the North Sea. Other commitments when there has been as much as a sniff have meant the closest I have surfed to home this year is Playas Americas.

Looks like it might change up this weekend. To big onshores...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on September 01, 2022, 08:28:02 am
Yep looks like there's finally a swell coming down here towards the end of this weekend.... combined with lots of unhelpful wind. Maybe the back end of it.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2022, 09:21:27 am
I'm up in Fraserburgh for the weekend next, hope it comes good, get back to the fantastic Philorth Beach
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: dunnyg on September 01, 2022, 11:50:34 am
Fingers crossed for nice punter surf round Pembroke next week. Does look breeeezy though
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2022, 11:56:00 am
you have some more sheltered choices at least, might be a bit of driving to find the right one though.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on September 01, 2022, 12:06:21 pm
Looks like Tuesday might be okay on the east coast??

Having watched a few vids recently it sounds like I should probably be spending more time in the white water anyways (my pop is shit - fine when stood up tho) so might just go be a punter in the wind and chop on the foamie even if it's shit...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2022, 08:07:14 am
Time in the water is better than no time in the water.

(my pop is shit - fine when stood up tho)

This is common. No reason you can't practice at home. Push ups help too, and core work.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on September 02, 2022, 10:54:33 am
Time in the water is better than no time in the water.

(my pop is shit - fine when stood up tho)

This is common. No reason you can't practice at home. Push ups help too, and core work.

Been doing this daily... Did mess up when I started trying this out of the water though as I saw a vid where they started with both feet already on the board, almost getting into a downward dog position before stepping forward... Only issue was that once in the water I realised that my 7'6" board doesn't allow me to do that... Now have a tecnique that works for the board I have that I can practice at home so just gotta keep at it! Great!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2022, 11:47:56 am
Good size board to progress on. I used my 7' 6" Minimal right up to overhead waves in outer Hebs. Sometimes regret selling it, great all rounder, hope the new owner still puts it to good use....
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 03, 2022, 08:06:46 am
I would if there were any waves! Two weeks in North Wales and nothing rideable.

Tis a great board though, I've never felt the need for anything else.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on September 03, 2022, 11:36:20 am
https://magicseaweed.com/North-Atlantic-Surf-Chart/2/?type=swell (https://magicseaweed.com/North-Atlantic-Surf-Chart/2/?type=swell)
Well this certainly looks more promising for out west.  Swell coming Monday offshores for N facing/ sheltered bays.  2nd storm system in particular could send a fun size groundswell with calm winds locally.  And there's a 3rd one developing behind that!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on September 05, 2022, 07:34:46 am
Tis a great board though, I've never felt the need for anything else.

Glad it still gets the love. Regret parting with it some days, but longboard most of the time now though, as I am so rarely in the water.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Liamhutch89 on October 10, 2022, 09:58:56 am
I've had the 13th - 17th October penciled in for ages for a 5 day surf trip (and maybe a bit of climbing) while the wife is away at her parents with the kids.

My mate and I had decided to leave it until last minute and go by conditions. The UK and Ireland are blowing a gale, and Lisbon is looking pretty expensive for direct flights (400+ from Manchester). Flights to Biarritz from London for 31 looks like a good option, although the times would require an overnight stay in London and probably quadruple the flight cost for the train.

Any other ideas? 
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: sxrxg on October 10, 2022, 10:08:09 am
Not a surfer however I know mates that have been to Faro recently instead of Lisbon for surfing, think this was because flights were cheaper. Might be worth looking at?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2022, 01:07:23 pm
Flying to Faro is a cheaper option, but conditions in the immediate area are not that reliable, ideally need to be nearer the Sagres Peninsula (Faro and westwards) to capitalise on swell from all directions. Are you planning hiring a car?

Also lots of Northern Spain options. Or if you don't mind a longer flight (but might be cheaper) there's the Canaries.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on October 10, 2022, 05:00:12 pm
Looking at forecast there seems to be lots of unhelpful wind but plenty of swell.
 Portugal looks like a banging forecast around Sagres which helpfully has beaches facing west, south and east with loads of spots with varying degrees of shelter/exposure to swells nearby too.  The only winds that would scupper you are southerlies which aren't forecast. I know nothing about bouldering opportunities nearby.
Lanza looks good too with the options around the island for shelter from wind and swells.  You'd be mainly looking at reef/point breaks over rocks and urchins though.  There is good bouldering on the island.
I hear Indo is nice at any time of year if you have the time and budget. ;)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 10, 2022, 05:06:07 pm
Famara area on Lanza has a range from nice sandy bottom beachies to sketchy reefs, and actually covers quite a wide range of options wrt shelter / wind if you don't mind a walk.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Liamhutch89 on October 10, 2022, 09:05:16 pm
Flights to Faro are booked, we'll be hiring a car and aiming straight for Sagres! Looks like there's some DWS there too. I'll take lots of photos  ;D
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2022, 08:42:37 am
Just looked at the forecast. Jammy twat :). Hope those guns hold up to all that paddling.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on October 11, 2022, 10:19:40 am
Have a good one LH! 
Be good to hear how it goes and about the DWS out there too, wondering whether too much swell affects it or whether there are sheltered areas..
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2022, 10:49:24 am
IIRC there is an exposed spot and a slightly more sheltered friendlier spot. It's on my wishlist along with an Ericeira / Sintra trip.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Jackob on October 11, 2022, 11:55:19 pm
I went recently and thought the dws was great fun on big jugs but a touch chossy in places. Ingrina is great and perfectly safe, Be careful at garcia walls, the water isnt as deep as the dws guide by mike robertson makes out. I made the mistake of going at low tide and i could stand up in places! Definitely go at high tide! Have a good trip im off surfing in whitby tomorrow and friday, the forecast isnt looking quite as fantastic as around sagres but hopefully there will be a bit about!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Liamhutch89 on October 18, 2022, 10:53:35 am
Sagres.

Well that was pretty great! We didn't stop for the whole trip, ate like kings (and still lost weight) and now I'm tired and very sore!

Starting on the Thursday, we hired our kit and surfed for a few hours at Tonel beach until after dark, then walked a whole 5 minutes up to our apartment. A nice introduction with 2-3 foot waves, an epic purple sunset sky and mirror gold water.

On Friday, the surf was small so we did the DWS at Ingrina getting mega pumped on everything 6b and above like true boulderers. I came very close to onsighting the 7c superbock, which included a 20 minute sit down rest in the half-way cave, an attempt at the boulder problem exiting the cave, getting stuck and somehow managing to reverse it back to the rest, then getting through the boulder problem before hitting terminal pump on easy ground above. There was no jumping off in a controlled way at 95% pump, this was a violent uncontrollable splashdown down whilst 110% committed - great fun! I could barely manage to ascend the grade 3 scramble back out after drying off, so we did a bit of cliff jumping to finish off. After a progressive build-up, I was psyched to send a gainer flip from 15m! Such a great feeling.

Saturday, the surf was back on. Swell periods were up to 12s and we spent the whole day at Castelejo, in the water for 10 hours! In the morning it was really misty which gave it a nice feel. I got a bit better at reading the waves and reduced the number of closeouts I paddled into throughout the day. Great spot and a stunning beach. Made a few Portuguese friends.

On Sunday, the swell increased through the day up to a 7 foot swell and 15s period, with almost no wind. This was a different beast entirely. After feeling comfortable the previous day surfing and getting wiped out on waves around 4-5 foot, that did absolutely nothing to prepare for this. I got lucky with the timing paddling out and reached the line up with no drama, but quickly realised I was in well over my head when the waves that were rolling in seemed as big and as thick as houses. I've not experienced anything close to that before and it was very intimidating. I sat it out for 15 minutes, but knew there was only one way back in, paddled for one and popped up, but I was way too heavy on the front of the board and wiped out immediately. Stupidly, I must have breathed out before I went down, but did all the right things afterwards - protected my head, stayed relaxed while getting tossed around, but I began panicking as I really needed air but still couldn't get back up. Eventually I surfaced, not sure how far I was from drowning but it wasn't a million miles away! Obviously I was still in the impact zone and got smashed again but this time took a deep breath. I spent the rest of the session in the whitewash. Big waves are scary. I felt like a new gym climber attempting to onsight E3 in rental shoes.

Monday morning, we got up at sunrise to get a few hours in before heading back to the airport. The waves were still big so it was another session just chilling in the foam.

Great place, brilliant food and a really cool vibe. I'd recommend it to anyone and will certainly be visiting again. Favourite places to eat were Three Little Birds, Laundry Lounge and Mare Cheia. Dori is a good bar for evenings with regular live music.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Liamhutch89 on October 19, 2022, 09:14:00 am
Had chance to upload a few photos from the trip last night. Link to photo album:  https://adobe.ly/3yQwUdE

edit: and a gainer  ;D  https://youtube.com/shorts/kWW0o5lCsQs?feature=share
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on October 19, 2022, 12:32:10 pm
Ace report - Sagres is right up on the hit list now! Looks mint!
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Falling Down on October 20, 2022, 10:15:27 pm
Liam, heres some nice footage of that Sunday swell hitting Ericeria

 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj3S7bXoFhP/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj3S7bXoFhP/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Liamhutch89 on October 21, 2022, 10:04:50 am
It looked pretty similar in Sagres on the Sunday!

Anyone have any thoughts on what thickness to go for on boots/gloves for east coast surfing this winter?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on October 24, 2022, 09:23:04 am
Depends on your resilience! I decided after a few winters that I would would spend the cash and lose some dexterity and rather be warm, got the XCEL Lobster Mitts. I can surf mid winter with them on, and still have warm hands, rather than the hot aches and not being able to unlock car I used to have to deal with. I've got Alder Plasma 7mm boots which are ace too the ones with the red stripe in pic, might be a newer model.http://www.surfadviser.com/product/Shoes,61/Alder/Plasma-Boots-7mm,101 Also got an XCEL hooded Polypro rash vest which is great if you have a suit without a hood.

Sounds like a great trip, nothing like the humbling experience of getting owned. I had it a few times in the Hebrides.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 03, 2022, 12:05:39 pm
Go West! crazy swell forecast (might need shelter from wind though).
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on December 19, 2022, 03:16:34 pm
Been waiting for this to land for a while - gonna curl up with a brew and watch this over the holidays... Or maybe in the van @ Cayton around New Years  :dance1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeTMPJ2B5VE
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Andy W on June 26, 2023, 09:51:43 am
 SW France...can anyone recommend any spots that are not mega busy, maybe with somewhere to camp or park up, between Bordeaux and Biarritz?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on November 15, 2023, 09:56:34 am
Planning a trip to Tenerife in January for a bit of mid-winter surfing and sport climbing action (probably a just have couple of surf days, the rest climbing) - pretty much know what's going on re. climbing out there but have no real idea what the surfing is like - from the limited bit I've read there's a lot of reefs, rocks and angry locals - sounds err... Mint.

Thought I'd see if anyone here's been and has any recomendations for a surf punter? CBA to lug a board for just a couple of days but happy to sling a suit and boots in the bag - staying Arico way but will have a car.

Cheers...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 15, 2023, 11:33:24 am
We stayed in Costa Adeje in the summer, so I think vibe very different. I was getting up early and running the 5km to the beach (electric scooters available) hiring a board from Surf Point (only shop open all daylight hours) and getting in at Playa de Americas and surfing for a few hours until i was knackered and surf schools descended about 9:15, when I got out and had a sweaty tired jog back. It was usually locals in the water at that time, but very chilled out waves and very chilled out vibe, and I was obviously not local, being the only one in rash vest and shorts when they are all in wetsuits. I expect in winter it's very different, with PdA being a hotly contested spot on a good day, but I expect with a bit more swell there are more options available up and down the coast, I think El Medano is closer to Arico and is a well known surf / windsurf / kite surf spot, with surf school etc. Lots of info on google, and if you send me a number i can send you the info in Stormrider's Europe if you don't have a copy.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: nash1 on November 16, 2023, 08:49:36 am
What do folk make of this prone foiling lark (ie surfing with a foil). I believe the new record is over 3 hours 'surfing' constantly. Check out youtube if you have not seen it before (here for example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06CmUNOe4so). It looks amazing I reckon, it seems like a real evolution. Instead of 5 second rides, suddenly you can talk about minutes or hours, obviously not on the same wave of course. It will also spread out the crowds cos you dont need to be in the pocket at all. Downside is that you dont need to be in the pocket I suppose?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2023, 09:23:15 am
Looks fun, but I think you would lose the "feel", and basically being able to go anywhere makes it all a bit too easy? Also incredibly dangerous with some toolers using them in busy line ups.

https://www.theinertia.com/surf/heres-what-happens-when-a-foil-board-hits-you-in-the-face/
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 16, 2023, 11:56:01 am
Planning a trip to Tenerife in January for a bit of mid-winter surfing and sport climbing action (probably a just have couple of surf days, the rest climbing) - pretty much know what's going on re. climbing out there but have no real idea what the surfing is like - from the limited bit I've read there's a lot of reefs, rocks and angry locals - sounds err... Mint.

Thought I'd see if anyone here's been and has any recomendations for a surf punter? CBA to lug a board for just a couple of days but happy to sling a suit and boots in the bag - staying Arico way but will have a car.

Cheers...

I spent two winters in Tenerife on long trips.

Surfing wise, we mainly surfed PDLA . Unless you are half decent, avoid Spanish left, as it's very localised. Instead surf in front on the hotel where all the surf schools are. It's reef but not sharp and doesn't hurt if you hit it. It will be rammed when the schools are in. You can spread out a little bit but depends on your ability.

Saw a few other spots when we explored but lots of graffiti about localism so didn't risk it
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: BrutusTheBear on November 16, 2023, 05:22:59 pm
Heard similar stories about localism in Lanzarote before going there and saw graffiti saying locals only etc... here and there. 
My experience in the water was pleasant enough though.
Probably helps to be on your own and not turn up to the line up with a crowd.
On point breaks/ reefs sit wide and respectfully wait in line/ tolerate being snaked by the locals.
Be polite, smile, say 'ola', give a 'whoop' when someone catches a good one etc..
Had some great surfs at well known breaks and got called into waves at some spots. 
Caveat being - it was 15ish years ago and things may have changed but surely if it's just you, you are being respectful and you don't drop in or snake anyone, there's nothing for the locals to get agitated about. If you get the vibe that you're not welcome paddle in and go elsewhere.
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: spidermonkey09 on November 16, 2023, 06:00:14 pm
What's the deal with surfing localism? It sounds like people are complete arseholes. Can anyone point to an article explaining the phenomenon?
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on November 16, 2023, 06:14:24 pm
Thanks guys - sounds like it should be fun. El Medano could be a good shout - I'll need to hire a Minimal or similar. I'll do some Googling and it'll probably be a good idea to get a copy of the Stormrider Europe guide and have a peruse when I next get paid... It'll just be me and tbh I'm such a punter I'll probably just avoid anywhere too tricky so doubt I'll be taking waves off snarky locals...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: A Jooser on November 16, 2023, 06:30:37 pm
What's the deal with surfing localism? It sounds like people are complete arseholes. Can anyone point to an article explaining the phenomenon?

Sometimes the 'locals only', 'surf wars' stories...
https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/local-beaches-for-local-folk-surf-guerrillas-fight-the-outoftowners-5350836.html (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/local-beaches-for-local-folk-surf-guerrillas-fight-the-outoftowners-5350836.html)

Quote
One gang member said yesterday: "I think there are too many floaters in the water. They have got no respect..."

...are just a bit of p!$$ taking...
https://www.theguardian.com/media/2004/nov/23/pressandpublishing.students (https://www.theguardian.com/media/2004/nov/23/pressandpublishing.students)

Quote
demands including one that no pasties be sold throughout the world with carrots in them

(https://live.staticflickr.com/48/354979919_9e342e3a8e_c.jpg)
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2023, 11:41:52 pm
Don't know origins, guess it stems back to native Hawaiians getting pissed off with hoards of "haoles" descending on their breaks when surfing took off, and suddenly everyone wanted to try and be like them and claim some "turf".

TBF you can see why tempers can get a bit frayed sometimes. A bit like turning up to a crag with one route on it that is just right for you, and there are a queue of people waiting to do it. And a lot of them who are not up to it are going to dog it and then toprope it. The let their pals...
Title: Re: One for the surfers
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2023, 11:44:56 pm
it'll probably be a good idea to get a copy of the Stormrider Europe

Annoyingly they split it into 2 editions now, and all the info is on surfline (RIP MSW :( ) or better online.
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