UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Aussiegav on February 19, 2023, 10:02:24 pm
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Howdy Power Rangers
Power Club
Monday -
4x4 circuits on hardwood circuits at the depot
Tuesday
Celebrated 10 years of wedded bliss with the wife at Champneys
Wednesday
Rest
Thursday
Pyramid circuits on the hardwood circuit board at the Depot
Friday
Rest
Saturday
Afternoon at Horseshoe. First outdoor session for the year. Cold but dry. Managed 4 routes took it easy. Grade, 5+, 5+, 6a, 6b.
Sunday
30min Peloton ride
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Thanks Gav
Weight 11.10/11
M. Weighted deadhangs and pull-ups on campus rung. Best hangs +30kg FC 3 secs HC 5 secs and Drag 10 secs
T. Funeral in Devon
W. Bens Graduation in Bristol
T. Weighted deadhangs and pull-ups on campus rung. Best hangs +30kg FC 4 secs HC 5 secs and Drag 11 secs
F.
S. Drove back to Sheffield
S. S Midday Systems board. Pretty strong on benchmarks. Did the Gastons sequence. Did throw move variations including using 3 fingers on undercut and the good incut edge. PE circuit couple of attempts and got to first gaston. AeroCap 20/10s timing 2 secs per move slipped off at move 93. Second set untimed and burnt out at move 103.
Datca on Tuesday for 10 days. Will be playing it by ear.
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M - unpacking, chores.
T - Pack again, travel
W - walking around maritime museum
T - beach wander
F - travel home, half hour at UCR to get moving, 6a, 6b+, 7a, 7c. Good to get the 7c first go, prob pretty soft though. 12hr night shift.
S - 12hr night shift. TCA 1hr, new black circuit (6C-7B). Did 7, 5 flashed.
S - 12hr night shift.
71 kg
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Enjoy Datça Simon.
M: Walked 10km. Met up with one of my main climbing partners of the 90s as he was passing through London. First time wed seen each other for years, good to catch up.
T: Westway, routes. First date with the engineer. Leading, mostly easy, fall practice. Tired and definitely not trying hard.
W - S: Family holiday. Walked 8-10km every day, nothing resembling climbing in any way.
I think this is called a de-load week. Back on it tomorrow.
Falls: 110
Try-hards: 4
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Power Club
Mon - ab wheel, hill sprints. Very short on time.
Tue - garage session, power clean. Fueled by work-induced rage, I managed to crank a few singles up to 97% and then back down. 5x5 at 85%. Lattice edge BW hangs.
Wed - mental day. 8 AM I went in Court, did BW squats in the bathrooms between hearings; ate a protein bar that I found in my bag, expired in 2021, got home at 15, ab wheel and back work; at 16 I went back in Court for more hearings, got home at 19:30, thruster, high pulls, back work, bentover rows.
Thu - board climbing. PB on current project twice, then in two halves twice. Light weights.
Fri - loaded carries 20'. A few Lattice hangs.
Sat - boxing bag. Surprisingly fast.
Sun - good mornings, volume. High pulls. A few light deadlifts.
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Power Club:
M.
T. Evening board session. The usual, warmup on fingerboard, 3 x max hangs. 45 mins bouldering at around 70 - 80 %, being cautious with right arm.
W.
T.
F.
S.
S. Brother and family visited, did a little bouldering on the board with bro whilst waiting for Sunday dinner to cook.
Training has been difficult and sporadic since Xmas, would really like to get a decent block in now to have a chance of doing some new 7s this spring/summer.
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S - 11 km run. Sore toe after, thought it was nail bruising after nearly 2 week break. Throbbing in the night (the toe that is).
M - 6.6 km run. Felt crappy. Toe agony in the night.
T - Woke up toe swollen and sore to touch. Doc took 1 look and prescribed antibiotics.
W - Toe pain still incredible all night, resorted to emergency hot needle surgery. Gory details spared, but not pleasant.
T - toe better, did a bit of weights.
F - toe just about feeling normal. No exercise though.
S - wall session. Felt a bit feeble after crap week, but had an OK session. Not too sore with softer shoes.
S - easy 5km walk.
Crap week, but hopefully back to normal from tomorrow.
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When I got a really infected thumb a few years ago I was at the point of cutting it open myself but wussed out (it was the middle of covid and I was a bit concerned about the optics of presenting at A and E with a self inflicted injury. It didn't get better by itself even with antibiotics and eventually whatever was in there flew out when I squeezed the thumb. I should have just done the surgery myself at the start.
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Yeah, the hot needle was very effective (actually safety pin heated with blowtorch). Let's say the volume that came out was startling. I hope whatever caused it is now out and it won't just reoccur. Just glad it didn't happen a week earlier, ski boots would have been a problem.
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Yeah, the hot needle was very effective (actually safety pin heated with blowtorch).
It is harder than I first thought to sterilise a needle at home. Boil for at least 30 min or hold it with pliers over a flame until it is glowing red.
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I opted for the latter. Got the whole length glowing bright red, but barely had to touch the end to the nail before it went right through.
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Yeah, the hot needle was very effective (actually safety pin heated with blowtorch).
It is harder than I first thought to sterilise a needle at home. Boil for at least 30 min or hold it with pliers over a flame until it is glowing red.
Really? GP friend of mine seemed happy enough with a quick rinse of boiler water before cutting my stiches.
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Yeah, the hot needle was very effective (actually safety pin heated with blowtorch).
It is harder than I first thought to sterilise a needle at home. Boil for at least 30 min or hold it with pliers over a flame until it is glowing red.
Really? GP friend of mine seemed happy enough with a quick rinse of boiler water before cutting my stiches.
My mother, who is a well trained nurse, is also happy with the same (and the further north you go, the less life there is). But professionally they use prepared and packaged sterilised needles, so they may not have much knowledge on how it is done.
I had to do it myself and got curious and googled it. WHO think you should bake them in the oven for a looong time, or boil them > 20 min, or use bleach. https://sterilissolutions.com/sterilize-needles-bulk/
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M: Mesa Rim, San Diego. 20mm 7s hangs up to +70lb *4sets. They had a kilter homewall at 40deg which I tried for first time. 2 V4, 2 V5, 5 V6, 1 V7, 2 V8. Finished with ring muscle-ups. Was feeling strong and managed +35lb ring muscle-up!
S: Clear Creek Canyon. Fourth session on Return of the Mossman V9. Again, only got through crux move once, will return only when lighter and fitter
S: 30 mins skipping
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resorted to emergency hot needle surgery. Gory details spared, but not pleasant.
Why was this not filmed so that we all might enjoy it?
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14 Feb 2023
Quick Progressive Warm up, then limit boulder session. 7A pink in cave I was working last week went down first go. 6C+ Some progress on another Pink that everyone seems to struggle on. Extra toehook beta but still not got to the good hold.
Tried a white I've played aroubd on before and got all the way to tickling the finish but maybe with whack beta that won't work. 7B. Had about 10 burns on this.
Feeling a little bit unstructured just now, but also enjoying it. Limit sesh still didn't really have much true "limit" in it. Probably should do more basic board climbing.
16 Feb 2023
20m morning yoga
Circuits sesh. Warm up, few boulders then:
6c double lap pink panel 2
6c (harder) double lap with 1min gap pink panel 5
6c straight into 6b+ (pink on panel 1) * maybe better doing double lap on 6c with a gap.
6c+ o/s on 45 panel 3. 1min rest, second lap to 30/37 - should be perfect once I learn it a bit.
White 7a on P2, modified 2 moves at 6 and 16 for consistency. 1st lap fucked it due to whack sequence and second totally powered out on 25/36. Do earlier in session!
9 Feb 2023
Ratho "fun/testing" session. First day on longer routes since Spain at new year. onsights: 6b+, 6c+, 7b, 7b*,7b+ (failed at 2/3s, very powerful!) 7a+, 7a, 6c, so 175m climbing.
* both 7bs I missed knee bar rests, but pump was never too bad - actually felt "fit" on them, climbing well. Seems like my baseline fitness has nudged up a bit and I'm only 2-3 weeks into aeropow / quality phase so hopefully more gains to be made. Was running short on time at the end so did a max-speed while maintaining precision onsight of the 7a+ which was fun and felt very cruisy. Probably <1.5 mins for 25m.
Weight down about 2kg to 79kg. Could easily drop another 2-3kg bodyfat wise, but can tell I'm teetering on under-fuelling and don't want to get injured/Ill etc.
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Board and surf club...
M: Rest - Some shoulder stability stuff
T: Moonboard @ AW - Great session, cleaned up more benchmarks up to 6B, repeated 2 x 6B+ and fell off the last move of a 6C - Definitely feeling stronger! Elbow good...
W: Rest
T: Bouldering @ AW - Lots of volume and a few harder things (supposed V6-8 but suited me) tried hard... Routes up for F6c+...
F: Routes @ AW - Volume session up to F6b... Did throw a few pumped laps on a F7a on toppy to see how the endurance is - Felt good pulling reasonably hard when pumped - Grumbly elbow.
S: Rest
S: Mega day... Drive to Cayton and surf for 3hrs - Destroyed... Drive to LSD in Leeds to meet Fiend who cajoles me into ihs (stupid) plan of 10 x V4, 10 x V5 and some V6's - manage most of the V4's a few 5's and then feel like my arms are going to drop off - have a pint and get fed curry on the sofa by the GF - think she might have actually saved me from dying! - Still trashed today (Tuesday!).... Good scenes tho.
Leonidio next Sunday so taking it easy this week - whoop whoop!
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I always find climbing after surfing flays skin off fingers in chunks.
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I always find climbing after surfing flays skin off fingers in chunks.
I'd usually agree as whenever I go in the sea my skin becomes like butter - thankfully LSD in Leeds holds were pretty frictionless (and a bit grubby tbh) which suited my post North Sea skin (wish there was something that could have assisted my jelly like arms, back and shoulders tho...)
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M - Bit of a cold and DIP still painful so skipped wall.
T - Long session at the wall with kids. Did a decent variety of the problems from the comp at the weekend, along with a bit of tentative stuff on the board. When I got home I did a pull session. Bumped my wide pull-up weight up, and then did some locks. Managed 5s locks at 90 and 120deg without any assistance for the first time - I don't think I've managed that since my early 20s and think it was pretty sketchy back then, so yay. Also did some longer tucked front levers and row pull-ups.
W - Press weights. Benched up to 100kg but biceps tendon still feeling a bit weird so dropped down to 90 and then did some shoulder press. Did a bit of deadlifting too up to 160kg but I think my form is a bit off and prob ought to concentrate on form / more reps at lower weights before I start pushing too much.
Then did some 20mm half crimp lifts (keep reminding myself I need to get the proper fingerboard reinstalled). Took this slowly as I didn't want to exacerbate tweaked DIP. Got up to 82kg which is more than I've managed before, and then did some sets of 10s @ 70kg which felt like something I fancy doing a bit more often.
T - Another long session at the wall with the kids. Was careful to take things gradually (the DIP issue arose from going a bit too hard to fast on small board crimps the previous week). Ended up feeling stronger / more solid on the hard section of my hardest / most long term board project than I think I've ever done before. Ended up working out some campus problems downstairs on the steep prow. Daughter (11) was pretty good at that too.
Did some weighted wide pulls when I got home, plus some locks but stopped when elbows suggested it might be time to stop.
F
S - Long morning at the wall. Took it pretty easy as still felt a bit tired.
S - Long beach / seal-spotting walk with the kids.
Also fitted some 10min standing FB aero intervals at home here and there. I quite like this (with a podcast and timer on) and find it less boring that doing it at the wall.
Weight hovering around 100kg, which is 7kg less that when I left for Margalef in Dec. Generally feeling as strong as I've ever been and fairly syked. But also aware that if I can get my weight down to the low 90s and beyond then things might get a lot more interesting. Need to get some sport and boulder trips in the diary to test out the gainz...
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I'd usually agree as whenever I go in the sea my skin becomes like butter - thankfully LSD in Leeds holds were pretty frictionless (and a bit grubby tbh) which suited my post North Sea skin (wish there was something that could have assisted my jelly like arms, back and shoulders tho...)
I think last time I tried this, it was 15 mins from getting out of water to getting on wall. Needless to say, it didn't go well.
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Mon - rested
Tue - Warm ups, back exercises, Long max hangs 3 x 20 seconds with good rest 20mm edge, 3 x 10 seconds on the 35 slopers.
Wed - really sore in side and abs from workout. Realised it was in a layer right at the top of my ribs - diaphragm? Is it possible to strain your diaphragm? I've normally managed to pull every muscle but this is a new one. Quite uncomfortable. Can't decide if it was the hangs themselves or the warmups I did which fatigued my lower back before doing the hangs. Won't be doing that again just in case.
Thu - had day off so drove up to Peak with family. Only 3h from home which seemed fast. Staying in Eyam right by a car that was parked to block the holiday cottage parking with a sign in the window saying 'Local homes for local people'. Very welcoming. Seemed quite wet but took a risk and ditched the family and went to Curbar. Played on Trackside boulder which was dry on the windward side but wet facing uphill towards the crag. Enjoyed doing a couple of problems. Made progress on Strawberries where previously I'd been completely shut down. Wasn't sure about Trackside without a spotter, did a few problems on the Gorilla Warfare arete block. Beautiful sunset, peaceful bouldering on my own. First time I've touched grit in...? Six years?
Fri - incredibly windy. Had a good time visiting friends in Sheff.
Sat - morning took family to Burbage Valley with the idea of playing on some boulders. (a) Took ages to walk in because we hadn't brought the baby carrier due to car space; (b) rock was still a lot wetter than I had hoped so not much was in; (c) it was cold and windy (d) kids were difficult to control. Did 4 problems then decided to call it a day! On the plus side my 5 year old son did that slabby boulder which is probably lots of kids' first boulder and was talking loads about doing more and coming back.
Met up with friends in the afternoon, then felt increasingly ill :sick:. Very annoying to happen on holiday. Something I ate? Went to bed early.
Sun - woke up feeling better in time for the drive home! Met up with friends in Stoney Middleton. Another quick drive home.
As a climbing trip was a washout, though at least I got to have a little play around. But as a family holiday we actually all had a good time, sleep was better than usual, no arguments, felt very positive. Probably the best holiday we've had since having kids! Got the green light for more Peak District trips which is a massive result. Got a green light for Font in Easter. Even bigger result.
Also learned we definitely need a bigger car.