UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => coaching => Topic started by: CrimpyMcCrimpface on March 17, 2022, 04:20:02 pm
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Asking on behalf of a friend who is looking for a coach. I had recommended Peak Pro (Tim) to a friend, but it seems he is fully booked indefinitely coaching the GB team. Does anyone have any Sheffield and area based recommendations please? I've seen the thread from 2017 but many of the links are dead so thought it worthwhile to ask.
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https://www.lovetoclimb.co.uk/
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Core Climbing Coaching are based out the Works, and they're good. Karl at Core is my S&C Coach and he put me a great program together.
Alex Hithersay is also a coach in Sheffield known to be really good
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Steve Mac
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Monkeyboy, of this parish, innit.
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The answer surely depends on what they want to work on and in what format... And what their level is. Someone looking for beginner technical and mental work for trad or someone looking to do their first 8B? Do they want 1-2-1 in person or mostly want a plan (i.e. remote may work)?
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Big Ron?
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I actually offer free coaching to people who aren't looking to improve very much.
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The answer surely depends on what they want to work on and in what format... And what their level is. Someone looking for beginner technical and mental work for trad or someone looking to do their first 8B? Do they want 1-2-1 in person or mostly want a plan (i.e. remote may work)?
This.
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I actually offer free coaching to people who aren't looking to improve very much.
I actually offer coaching for people who actually want to get worse. Usually involves suggesting just sacking it off, you'll never do it, lets got to the pub / chipper.
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I actually offer free coaching to people who aren't looking to improve very much.
not very much is way better than what I've achieved in recent years. You better not get my hopes up.
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The answer surely depends on what they want to work on and in what format... And what their level is. Someone looking for beginner technical and mental work for trad or someone looking to do their first 8B? Do they want 1-2-1 in person or mostly want a plan (i.e. remote may work)?
It can be a bit chicken and egg. Climbers interested in coaching often need a coach to coach them on what coaching they need.
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It can be a bit chicken and egg. Climbers interested in coaching often need a coach to coach them on what coaching they need.
Who offers the best coach selection coaching services in Sheffield?
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It can be a bit chicken and egg. Climbers interested in coaching often need a coach to coach them on what coaching they need.
Yeah, I can imagine this being that case... but... coaches typically have certain areas (and ability levels) that they specialise in, and I reckon a bit more info would help people to align their advice. We've had some very different coaches mentioned in the replies so far, who would be more/less suitable depending on the person asking.
For what it's worth, there are not many people in the UK I would consider handing my training over to, but those that there are do happen to live in Sheffield (realistically this is probably as much to do with me being sceptical and so only trusting those who've built my trust as much as anything else). They would be:
Ella, Ollie T or Tom R at Lattice
Dave Mason
Stu (but he doesn't do it as a business)
Buster
... but I appreciate I'm probably not the average person looking for coaching, would want a fairly interactive/collaborative approach, and I'm thinking of a training plan more than 1-2-1 style coaching here. For 1-2-1 coaching I suspect I'd actually want sessions with various people as each will have different things you can learn from them and different movements they excel at spotting issues with. Mason and Napier spring to mind as people who have struck me as being good at understanding and explaining movement in the past; perhaps Steve to, but I've spent less time trying the same moves as him. Style might matter here too given that these coaches all have their areas in which they are likely to understand movement better, e.g. I suspect Steve is good at spotting movement errors on slightly overhung precise climbing but much less so on co-ordination boulders!
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only trusting those who've built my trust
fine tautology.
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Who would you recommend for elderly trad. climbers?
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Ageing trad climbers need a Life coach, not a climbing coach.
(Which to be fair is kind of the angle Katherine Schirrmacher approaches everything?)
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Who would you recommend for elderly trad. climbers?
A sports massage therapist.
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True dat. And a PA.
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Thanks for all the replies, sorry for the delay I had norovirus over the weekend. Barely lost any weight though so feel like I've been short changed.
Agree on the points regarding knowing thy customer. In this case he's 23/4, been exclusively bouldering 6 years, and has plateaued around 6C/7A. Light and short, with seemingly good technique, but I think lacks in power and tenacity.
For his level probably 1-2-1 with Ollie/Tom/Stu may not be worth their time. Though he does need someone more qualified(than I) to assess his weaknesses 1-2-1 before he can work on them and provide direction.
Additionally, he would benefit from some structure and accountability since he lives in Norwich where rocks are few and bars are many.
I've passed these recommendations thanks again. He's also been recommended Michelle Greenall who I see is doing GB coaching. Any more recommendations also welcome since I appear to be getting worse and will have to sort myself out pretty soon too.
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he lives in Norwich where rocks are few and bars are many
He doesn't need a coach, he needs to move.
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Definitely a life coach!
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no recommendations, but curious as why you asked for sheff based coach if he lives in Norwich?
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He seems to think they would be better to advise and doesn't know of any in Norwich. I haven't discouraged since it gets him to Sheffield and he would benefit from more time on rock. It is a fine city just a flat one..
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Definitely a life coach!
Happy to help if this path is chosen.
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he lives in Norwich where rocks are few and bars are many
He doesn't need a coach, he needs to move.
To expand on my slightly flippant earlier comment; this is exactly what Dave Mac talks about in 9/10 Climbers, i.e. people searching for all sorts of different solutions, often at significant cost, when the real answer is very simple indeed. For a rock climber, moving close to rock is one of those blindingly obvious things that will organically improve someone's climbing without any need for anything else.
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It's not an unreasonable aim to want to get better at climbing but also not want to completely uproot your life though.
For sad sacks like us it's the be all, but for a lot of others climbing is just a nice way to spend some time.
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I got on well with a training plan for a sport climbing trip from Nick and Eder, and would happily recommend them https://www.newageclimbing.com/
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As spidermonkey says, could a be a load of reasons why someone doesn't want to relocated at significant expense for something as insignificant as getting better at climbing.
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Still, there are places that suck for climbing, and then there’s Norwich.
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something as insignificant as getting better at climbing
Hardly sounds worth getting coaching then?
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eh? I know loads of people who have coaches, trainers and PTs for improving their running, cycling, golf etc with an interest in getting better at what they love to do, doesn't mean it takes over their entire life and they need to make significant life change decisions because of it.
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Fair point. I suppose I think of coaching more of an elite thing, as opposed to lessons, instructors etc.