UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Coops_13 on January 30, 2022, 11:40:13 pm
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M: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Pull-ups +40lb X3 *3. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 35lb OH *3. G1, legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5sets. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *5. Trap bar deadlift 255lb X3 *3sets.
T: G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +60lb HC *3sets. Kilter board 40 degrees. 1 V1, 1 V2, 3 V3, 8 V4. 13 climbs total.
W: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 35lb OH *3. G1, Legs. Heel-elevated squats 155lb X5 *3sets. Dumbbell RDLs 60lb (2) X5 *3sets. Bosu ball single-leg balance 30s *3sets. Weighted pull-ups +55lb X3 *3sets. Lower body stretching
T: G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +65lb HC *2sets. Kilter board 40 degrees. 2 V2, 4 V3, 2 V4, 6 V5. 14 climbs total.
F: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.
S: Duncan's Ridge. Horsetooth Reservoir. Bushwhacked through maybe half a mile of brambles to find Icebreaker Arete, mega high V4. Made good progress with no pain to the high top which, after a few big falls, I gave up on - need a spotter. Bushwhacked back to the main crag and did Rough Hugs V4 very quickly. So good to be out again and able to try boulders > V1!
https://youtu.be/nVBDKQ9wHCs
S: Hiked to check out more boulders in the Flatirons with dog. 3 miles, 1100ft. Went to Elevated boulders and Land of the Lost - so many good boulders up there
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Good to see you out again Coops.
M - 2 x 1:40 plank. 20 press ups, 20 pull ups, 100 squats. Back bridges for hamstring. Aeropow repeaters on 20mm edge @ 50kg, 7:3 x 12 x 6 sets, 4 min btwn sets. Tests very faintly positive so still isolating tomorrow.
T - 2 x 1:50 plank. 20 press ups, 20 pull ups, 50 squats. Back bridges for hamstring. Felt slightly worse health wise so that was it. Tests still faintly positive so still isolating tomorrow.
W - 2 x 1:50 plank. 20 press ups, 20 pull ups, 50 squats. Ancap repeaters on 20mm edge @ BW, 7:3 x 6 x 6 sets, 3 min btwn sets. Finally a negative test! Fingers crossed for tomorrow...
T - FREEDOM! 2 x 1:50 plank. Indoor routes at Redpoint. Deliberate easy session to see how I felt: 6a+, 6a, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, 7a, 6c+, 6b+, 6c, 7a+, 6b+, all OS or flash. Really relieved to not feel knackered after.
F - 2 x 1:50 plank. Indoor bouldering at TCA. Did comp as was last opportunity before they got taken down next week - 25 problems, 18 flash, 21 tops, close on one other. Could maybe have flashed a couple more but otherwise a decent stab - though obviously don't know how they would have felt if I hadn't been just back from covid. Knackered after, but was a big session. 12hr night shift was tough.
S - slept a lot. 2 x 1:50 plank. 50 press ups, 100 squats, 10 pull ups. 12hr night shift - much easier than Fri.
S - 2 x 1:50 plank. Ancap repeaters on 20mm edge @ BW, 7:3 x 6 x 6 sets, 3 min btwn sets. 12hr night shift.
71kg
Still feeling a bit "breathy" from covid but has improved over the weekend, and seemed to deal ok with a fairly heavy session on Friday. Fingers crossed I've dodged the longer lasting effects, won't be doing any cardio for at least another week though.
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Glad you are getting back to it Ross, and good effort managing to train through Covid Duma!
Jan Goals
- do 90% of planned sessions ✅ giving myself this one, did 14/16 sessions (87.5%). Had a few days off at the start of the month cos I went too hard too soon.
- lose 2kg ❌ This just didn't happen. Next month I just need to cut out some of the eating out and takeaways to make a dent.
Weight: 78.2kg
Monday
Rest
Tuesday
2 arm hangs, lattice edge. 5x7seconds with 33kg added
Board - Limit bouldering, did a couple of new "medium"s.
On the minute boulders - 30 mins.
Wednesday
Rest
Thursday
Stronghold LDF - Trying to flash or 2nd try a bunch of stuff. Started on the Kilterboard and flashed 3 >= 7A's and tried another 5 or 6. Did 2 7A's on the normal problems and did ok on a 7A+.
Lock offs, short ones to failure.
Weights/Rings including Y's and T's. Good shoulder doms the next few days from this.
Friday
Rest
Saturday
1 arm hangs on lattice edge. 5x7seconds minus 10kg
Short board session, not much success but tried hard.
Weighted pullups 3x5, fast pullups 3x5.
Sunday
Tried to do AnCap on the board but skin was too painful, did the AnCap and AeroCap sessions from the Crimpd app on the fingerboard instead.
A good week, and an ok month getting back into training. Booked a trip to Lofoten in the summer, mainly for some longer rock routes, but the bouldering also looks excellent. Looking forward to getting out a bit more in February and March, would like to visit Anstey's and have a trip to North Wales ideally.
Goals for February
- Do 90% of planned sessions
- Lose 2kg (will require a more concerted effort to stop eating takeaway pizza :()
- 3x days out on rock
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M. Home FB warm up. Warmed up at crag on Donostiara 6b which Duncan had already done. Great route. Full 40m. Would make a great E2 trad route which apparently is how it was originally done. I had two tie ins again on Lore Basatia. Refined beta and got some longer links but not optimistic I’ve got enough endurance to do it. It’s up there with the best and hardest 7c’s I’ve done and feels on a par with or New Dawn and just as good. Overall about 27 metres and about 15degrees overhanging. Mainly runout endurance but with two similar cruxes. The first I’m sure I can get through and have already fallen off midway through it climbing from the ground. I’ve linked the next 20 feet to the bolt by the second crux but I’ve a mild pump by that point and there’s no shake before doing that crux. Even after the second crux there’s only a poor shake another hard move and easily droppable scary 7a+ climbing for another 15 feet before a good rest to get enough back for the last bit.
T.
W. Another two runs up Lore Basatia. Second go did it with three rests. One more chance at it before I leave
T.
F. Didn’t sleep well. Early start for us as catching plane in afternoon. For me a quick warm on the initial 7a bit of Lore Basatia then 10 mins rest then big effort on redpoint. Got a bit more back on the poor shakes after the first crux but still pumped clipping bolt at start of second crux but managed to start crux sequence at least before coming off. After rest got through that crux first go but had to rest on next bolt but then through to the top. Highpoint and reduced from three hangs to two but still need significantly more endurance and recoverability to do it. Something to come back for.
F
S
S Nice long group walk from Bamford up to the edge across to Stanage back down via Plantation and then paths below the road
Going to take 6 days off. Was shocked to find I’d put on a 1lb at 164.6lb/74.7kg (Duncan had lost 3lb) as convinced I’d lost it as was pinching less on midriff. Impedance scales confirmed that I’d reduced fat% and gained muscle. Still far too heavy though but dropped 2lbs since.
Great trip but disappointed with performance. Need to benchmark myself on my projects to properly understand where I am and what I need to do.
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Going to take 6 days off. Was shocked to find I’d put on a 1lb at 164.6lb/74.7kg (Duncan had lost 3lb) as convinced I’d lost it as was pinching less on midriff. Impedance scales confirmed that I’d reduced fat% and gained muscle. Still far too heavy though but dropped 2lbs since.
Shark, shame it wasn't a better trip for performance but if nothing else you've got some great sounding things to go back for. This comment about being heavier with lower% bodyfat (i.e. more muscle) but you "feeling" like that's too heavy - why is it necessarily bad? It's unlikely it's leg muscle you've put on and surely any gains for a non-adolescent male should be welcomed? Are you perhaps actually under-fuelling your exercise hence the poor performance often? You seem (from a distance) to have a strong association with a "target" weight. I've done this for years (as 74kg often coincided with times when I climbed well). However, on refection of my less than meteoric gains in the last 5 years, injuries, lack of motivation etc. I realised that I was just not eating enough and enough of the right stuff. When I did my hardest sport route it was just after being 79kg, I think I'd dropped to about 77kg but certainly not 74...
No idea if this is way off the money....
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Good to see you back in the saddle Coops.
M - Easy day: 5 6as or 5+s at the local Ecole d’Escalade. Elbow felt better for it.
T - Shoulder conditioning. 12km walk around old Pamplona.
W - Warmed-up and tried Las flores del mal again. Felt generally anxious due to some non-climbing stuff and pretty uncomfortable above bolts but managed to dog all the way to the top putting the clips in. Rested, did some active relaxation work, first time I've ever tried anything like this at the crag. Had another try getting to one hold before it becomes easy. Fell off rather than grabbed the draw which was notable improvement. Felt positive about having given it a good shot and would have been happy if that had been it on the trip.
T - Shoulder conditioning.
F - Warmed-up putting the draws in Las flores del mal. Had a good rest belaying Simon on his proj. then got back on it and climbed it with 10 minutes to spare before we had to leave. YYFY. Travel back to UK.
S - Shoulder conditioning
S - Shoulder conditioning. Walked 12km around Hampstead Heath etc.
Thoroughly enjoyed the climbing at Etxauri, the company, and the weather was amazing. More thoughts and some pictures (https://www.instagram.com/p/CZOw5BVNjdf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link).
Now for the power club stuff. Before the trip I’d had two days of sport climbing and three climbing wall sessions since early July: did some trad. climbing followed by three months of conditioning between spells of single-parenting and a virus of some kind. Not surprisingly at the start of the trip I was running out of gas after 5 moves. I was also more nervous than I anticipated. Perhaps most shocking was how little capacity I had for trying remotely hard and how quickly I ran out of puff (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31683.msg654071.html#msg654071). I’ve never needed so many rest days on a trip! By the end I was a lot more relaxed on the sharp end and had slightly more in the tank before the fingers started to fade. I still had very little capacity for trying hard repeatedly.
I’ve got five months before a big trip for which I will need all the middle-distance endurance I can gain (2-3 minutes red-pointing efforts). I also want to be onsighting trad. routes (20+ minutes go-stop-go) in May and July/August. Being able to walk uphill for 60-90 minutes with a pack without expiring would be a bonus. Simon suggests 4x4s and 20/10s. What are your favourites for this kind of fitness?
Going to take a few days off then crack on with the 4x4s and so on.
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Shark, shame it wasn't a better trip for performance but if nothing else you've got some great sounding things to go back for. This comment about being heavier with lower% bodyfat (i.e. more muscle) but you "feeling" like that's too heavy - why is it necessarily bad? It's unlikely it's leg muscle you've put on and surely any gains for a non-adolescent male should be welcomed? Are you perhaps actually under-fuelling your exercise hence the poor performance often? You seem (from a distance) to have a strong association with a "target" weight. I've done this for years (as 74kg often coincided with times when I climbed well). However, on refection of my less than meteoric gains in the last 5 years, injuries, lack of motivation etc. I realised that I was just not eating enough and enough of the right stuff. When I did my hardest sport route it was just after being 79kg, I think I'd dropped to about 77kg but certainly not 74...
No idea if this is way off the money....
My experiences differ to yours then. My best performances have been when I’m about 11 stone or a bit under so weighing in at 11.10 (the most Ive been in recent years around Xmas is 11.12) was a shock especially as I’d thought I’d lost weight on the trip and concerning as it takes me a long time to lose weight and I’m higher than normal for this time of year.
The 11.4-6 range is my target as it is sustainable and allows me drop to my (unsustainable) redpoint weight within a few weeks, for a few weeks.
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Nice one Coops.
Had pretty bad DOMS after last weeks visit to the wall, particularly around left arm which isn't a surprise as its still noticeably weaker than my right. Took it easy all week.
Saturday - 1.5 hours on the woodie whilst keeping an eye on the little one, making up easyish problems, tweaking the layout and adding on my last few holds. Back, arm and shoulder strength needs building up again, finger strength feels ok (again, makes sense after many months of only fingerboarding).
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Another good week. Life’s good.
Monday - rest
Tuesday
Awesome Walls after work, projecting session.
Did the following routes
5b, 6a, 6a+ as warm up routes.
Went on the 6b+ I fell twice on last week. First go I forgot a sequence down low so reacquainted myself to the moves to the top. Did it next go.
Projected a 6c. Went up on a working go, did all the moves. Worked some sequences out then rested. First Redpoint I duffed a few clipping positions and rested on the bolt. So refined the sequences had a 15min rest and did it comfortably next go. Very pleased with that.
Warmed down on a 6a+.
Great session.
Wednesday
40min peloton ride
Thursday
Evening session of Density hangs at home.
Warmed up with crimp curl repeaters with
Then two longer hangs 20s at 20kg assistance.
Density hangs. 4x30s.
4 hangs with 16.7kg assistance. Maintained good form and left a few seconds in reserve.
2 more weeks of density hangs to get tendons and connective tissues conditioned and ready for high intensity work from max hangs.
Friday
Went to the School after work. Boulder Mileage, 15 problems with 2.5min rest between problems/attempts. Problem range 6a to 6A+. Nice quick efficient session
Saturday-rest
Sunday
Mid morning session at the School with a good crew who arrived later.
Did a 15min send session. I devised this session to get better at reading problems quickly and introducing more variety instead of doing the same problems. The aim is to pick a new problem and try and send in 15mins. Move on to a new problem at the end of the 15mins.
Picked two on the 2019 Moonboard and then picked two on the 2016 Moonboard. Did the first problem, didn’t manage the others.
Picked two crimpy ones on the 2016 as it’s a big weakness of mine.
Thoroughly enjoyed this session.
Finished with 3 sets of French pull ups.
I did a 45min ride on the Peloton in the evening with a good stretch afterwards.
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Endurance club...
M: Short afternoon session @ AW - Routes up to F6b+
T: Routes @ AW - Harder session, worked new F7a+
W: Rest
T: AW with daughter - did a few autos up to F6c and she led 2 full-length routes (thus burning off her brother who was isolating at his mums - the climbing wars, begun they have.....) :strongbench: Finished by flashing a bunch of new orange blocs...
F: Rest
S: Routes @ AW - Warmed up then got on F7a+, dropped crux due to twatting elbow on big blobby hold going for crimp... Decided not to have another pop and elect for an "easy" F6c... Shit the bed! Made a meal of it and nearly came off...
S: Back to AW - Warmed up and did some fingerboarding while GF climbed with a mate. Rinsed F7a+ to the last move which involved a high step onto a smear while pinching a poor sloper... Didn't place the foot right and couldn't adjust so peeled off backwards... Wasn't too fussed as was feeling beat anyways so just getting there was a bonus... 4x4 and polished off the rest of the orange blocs to finish... Trashed!
Much better this week... Shoulder, neck and elbow seem fine... A bit of easier climbing and being back on the string seems much kinder to my ageing frame... Still need to work on raw power (as I really have very little/none) but need to be aware of the toll it takes on my body and not get carried away by mates inviting me bouldering and/or just hitting the board or blocs when I can't blag a catch....
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Missed a couple of weeks. No notes but summary below.
4 weeks into the diet. Down 3kg to 81kg and feeling a bit flat and groggy. Power at the beginning of a session hasn't dropped yet, but it doesn't last long; I can only do about 45 minutes on the board.
Other than that i've only been outside once, for a second session on like a hurricane. Managed all the moves but no good links. Finding this one hard and I think it's technique related. Did the top out by headtorch, over 1 pad with no spotter, which was terrifying.
Lots of training as usual. New pb on 1 rep max pullup at +67.5kg on rings. Absolute levels of finger strength dropping very slightly. Hopefully this returns once I achieve a target weight and start eating a bit more.
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M rest
T BM1k bottom outside edges HC 5x7s +27.5kg
20mm mid 2 HC pick up 5x7s 20kg
W board, close on a problem I've been working for a few sessions, did a new moderate, tried a couple of harder things, all the moves on 1 and all but 1 move on another. Pretty psyched about how various problems are going on the board, but would like to close the account on 1 which has felt close for 3 sessions!
T rest
F FB bm2k bottom middle edge 5x4s RH BW, 4x5s -5kg LH and 1x3s(greesed off!) . Felt tired I think due to a poor night's sleep. Also if bad fb cons exist I found them! The Hangar was rammed!
S rest
S cave, busy which made pulling on long stuff a bit of a nightmare. Did the first moves of cave life (full version) a few times but dropped the match Into the wobbly bloc, pretty confident if get into the RA hold I'll go to the end, but don't get many goes on the first move before my skins in bits and my tension is gone to hold the starting hold. Moved onto Hatch briefly to re quaint with moves, did all in a couple of goes. Moved onto Broken heart. Always found this one hard work. Did the 2nd move to the good jug on the stands within a few goes(2nd move was the crux for me in the past), then repeated lip service 2nd go. Went from the start but came off the move to the mini jug (3rd move) a bunch of times from the start (when I put my RF on I wasn't taking the left heel off fully which was limiting my reach to the 3rd hold). Felt pretty close as I can recover well if I get to the stands. An another option in the cave is pretty cool.
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Power Club
Mon - injured. Lateral raises and biceps curls.
Tue - injured. Lateral raises, triceps, biceps, shoulders, fingers (this: https://youtube.com/shorts/Gj97HZTy84M?feature=share (https://youtube.com/shorts/Gj97HZTy84M?feature=share)). Better than nothing. Very frustrated.
Wed - injured. Light weights.
Thu - injured. Light boxing bag.
Fri - injured. EMOM weights.
Sat - injured. Easy Lattice edge hangs, barbell complex.
Sun - injured. Amazing fingerboarding session. BM back2 on medium pockets, mid2 on small pockets, front2 on outer edges; Lattice Edge up to +4 kg (very short hang) and +2 kg (solid). RH one arm hang on 1 cm taking off 5 kg (very short hang) and 6 kg (solid). One armers on Lattice Edge at 85%. Quite pleased. Weights: 3' barbell complex: overhead carry 1', press x5, hip hinge x10, clean x10, iso hold to end. All x5, 3' rests.
I am probably healing.
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M - AM conditioning; weighted pull ups 3x 3 +18kg, superset with wide Arnold Press. Then rings wide press ups & Ts and external rotations. Then aerocap; 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off, low pump.
M - PM walk 9.3km (to the pub)
Tu - rest, terrible night's sleep. Chest DOMS from rings work. Been a while since I was on these. PM 6.5km walk to the shops so 2nd half weighed down with a rucksack full of food.
W - lunchtime fingerboard session. First one arm hangs session (testing aside) in ages. 5s half crimp, Lattice edge, 4x straight arm and 4x 90' lock. Found the former nails and had to have 20kg off to do. Locks easier, started at 15kg off but last 2 upped to 17kg. Found the whole session really hard. Arms definitely a limiting factor more than fingers.
Th - Ilkley. Knackered from lack of sleep. Warmed up a bit slowly. Sorted all the sequences on Calf Traverse so hopefully that's nicely lined up for a future session. 6/7 goes at link up project. 2nd was best, pretty much matched my high point. Later on worked out a new way for the crux move which I think will be the way; means you can take the crucial hold in much more control. Quite glad James didn't do it if I'm honest, would really like to get it done!
F - lunchtime conditioning; one arm rows, bent over Ys, gym ball hamstring and core stuff.
Sa - pick up FB to start. Pinky and index monos, and middle 2. Plus 3x 6 weighted pull ups +13kg. Then down to Anston Stones. Bit of a humbling visit really. According to my training plan should have done a limit board session focusing on 1-3 move problems. Basically did that on rock. Tried Soul Crusher, Black Crow and Dark Art. Didn't do a single one of the hard moves on any of them but tried hard at least. Did a couple of easier things albeit not without difficulty. Think I'm well out of practice on this style!
Su - rest
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Light week trying to get back into it after tweaking my wrist.
Weight, still around 78kg. Had a couple of days where I probably under-ate and then was tired and low mood the next day.
m: 2 x 10m aerocap on the autobelay; 6 x 15 move ancap (1m on 2.5m off) Short session as time limited.
T: nowt much
W: Also time limited due to burns dinner and listening to our new temp flatmate's music release at celtic connections... Some 1-arm max hangs, which were poor (seemed restricted) and deffo weaker on right hand. Then some density hangs randomly through the night. All a bit unstructured...
T: nowt, maybe a few planks and brachialis curls.
Fri: Flew to Amsterdam, had a session at Beest Boulders. Fun, but a bit tired and found it a bit hard.
Sat: cycled/walked around town
Sun: More walks with family, couple of beers and food for GFs dad's bday.
Nice to be away. Not much hard training, but nice to not feel too injured.
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M - AM conditioning; weighted pull ups 3x 3 +18kg, superset with wide Arnold Press. Then rings wide press ups & Ts and external rotations. Then aerocap; 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off, low pump.
M - PM walk 9.3km (to the pub)
Tu - rest, terrible night's sleep. Chest DOMS from rings work. Been a while since I was on these. PM 6.5km walk to the shops so 2nd half weighed down with a rucksack full of food.
W - lunchtime fingerboard session. First one arm hangs session (testing aside) in ages. 5s half crimp, Lattice edge, 4x straight arm and 4x 90' lock. Found the former nails and had to have 20kg off to do. Locks easier, started at 15kg off but last 2 upped to 17kg. Found the whole session really hard. Arms definitely a limiting factor more than fingers.
Th - Ilkley. Knackered from lack of sleep. Warmed up a bit slowly. Sorted all the sequences on Calf Traverse so hopefully that's nicely lined up for a future session. 6/7 goes at link up project. 2nd was best, pretty much matched my high point. Later on worked out a new way for the crux move which I think will be the way; means you can take the crucial hold in much more control. Quite glad James didn't do it if I'm honest, would really like to get it done!
F - lunchtime conditioning; one arm rows, bent over Ys, gym ball hamstring and core stuff.
Sa - pick up FB to start. Pinky and index monos, and middle 2. Plus 3x 6 weighted pull ups +13kg. Then down to Anston Stones. Bit of a humbling visit really. According to my training plan should have done a limit board session focusing on 1-3 move problems. Basically did that on rock. Tried Soul Crusher, Black Crow and Dark Art. Didn't do a single one of the hard moves on any of them but tried hard at least. Did a couple of easier things albeit not without difficulty. Think I'm well out of practice on this style!
Su - rest
Can't work out whether this is a high volume week or whether I'm just lazy! Do you warm up at all for the conditioning sessions or just smash straight into it? Ditto the lunch sessions; before or after you eat lunch?
My normal weeks are 3 sessions of fingerboard/wall in the week and then get out where possible at the weekend, if its wet do another session. Maybe there's scope for me to increase the load a bit. :-\
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My experiences differ to yours then. My best performances have been when I’m about 11 stone or a bit under so weighing in at 11.10 (the most Ive been in recent years around Xmas is 11.12) was a shock especially as I’d thought I’d lost weight on the trip and concerning as it takes me a long time to lose weight and I’m higher than normal for this time of year.
The 11.4-6 range is my target as it is sustainable and allows me drop to my (unsustainable) redpoint weight within a few weeks, for a few weeks.
Fair enough, if that works for you. How do you drop weight and keep energy levels up? I'm obviously training a bit heavy this winter, which means I'll probably need to drop 2-3kg in the spring. I've never really tried to time some limited weight loss for a trip (if ever I've been heavy I've just done the young guy thing of eating less and training more, but that doesn't seem to work at 38!
I'm guessing you need to just reduce volume a bit and focus more on maintenance rather than gains? How long over, 2-3 weeks?
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Goal: New (to me) Font 7a outdoors somewhere
Not a great week training-wise...busy at work, ate and boozed a bit too much, and had a weekend scuppered by kids' birthday parties on both days. One of the downsides of lockdown life ending IMO...I was enjoying having my weekends guaranteed free!
Climbing-wise, got to LSD on Thurs. Had a good thrash round a load of new stuff, did a couple of V5s but was out of juice pretty quick.
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M - AM conditioning; weighted pull ups 3x 3 +18kg, superset with wide Arnold Press. Then rings wide press ups & Ts and external rotations. Then aerocap; 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off, low pump.
M - PM walk 9.3km (to the pub)
Tu - rest, terrible night's sleep. Chest DOMS from rings work. Been a while since I was on these. PM 6.5km walk to the shops so 2nd half weighed down with a rucksack full of food.
W - lunchtime fingerboard session. First one arm hangs session (testing aside) in ages. 5s half crimp, Lattice edge, 4x straight arm and 4x 90' lock. Found the former nails and had to have 20kg off to do. Locks easier, started at 15kg off but last 2 upped to 17kg. Found the whole session really hard. Arms definitely a limiting factor more than fingers.
Th - Ilkley. Knackered from lack of sleep. Warmed up a bit slowly. Sorted all the sequences on Calf Traverse so hopefully that's nicely lined up for a future session. 6/7 goes at link up project. 2nd was best, pretty much matched my high point. Later on worked out a new way for the crux move which I think will be the way; means you can take the crucial hold in much more control. Quite glad James didn't do it if I'm honest, would really like to get it done!
F - lunchtime conditioning; one arm rows, bent over Ys, gym ball hamstring and core stuff.
Sa - pick up FB to start. Pinky and index monos, and middle 2. Plus 3x 6 weighted pull ups +13kg. Then down to Anston Stones. Bit of a humbling visit really. According to my training plan should have done a limit board session focusing on 1-3 move problems. Basically did that on rock. Tried Soul Crusher, Black Crow and Dark Art. Didn't do a single one of the hard moves on any of them but tried hard at least. Did a couple of easier things albeit not without difficulty. Think I'm well out of practice on this style!
Su - rest
Can't work out whether this is a high volume week or whether I'm just lazy! Do you warm up at all for the conditioning sessions or just smash straight into it? Ditto the lunch sessions; before or after you eat lunch?
My normal weeks are 3 sessions of fingerboard/wall in the week and then get out where possible at the weekend, if its wet do another session. Maybe there's scope for me to increase the load a bit. :-\
Ha if anything that's a medium volume week, this week will be higher. I am generally doing a lot atm trying to stimulate some strength gains as I don't really respond to low volume.
Possible that the walking makes it sound like more than it is though? All the individual sessions are pretty short and sharp; e.g Monday was 45 mins or so, Wednesday was an hour, Friday was 30 mins, fingerboard before climbing on Saturday was 15 mins plus warm up and pull ups, etc. It's really not that much time!
And yes definitely have to warm up! But generally doesn't take me long.
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Fair enough, if that works for you. How do you drop weight and keep energy levels up?
Generally by switching to low or no carbs, delaying breakfast until midday, skipping occasional meal if not particularly hungry and losing weight slowly (1-2lbs per week). Also eat jelly babies prior to hard goes on a project for a sugar spike.
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And yes definitely have to warm up! But generally doesn't take me long.
Details please!
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M - AM conditioning; weighted pull ups 3x 3 +18kg, superset with wide Arnold Press. Then rings wide press ups & Ts and external rotations. Then aerocap; 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off, low pump.
M - PM walk 9.3km (to the pub)
Tu - rest, terrible night's sleep. Chest DOMS from rings work. Been a while since I was on these. PM 6.5km walk to the shops so 2nd half weighed down with a rucksack full of food.
W - lunchtime fingerboard session. First one arm hangs session (testing aside) in ages. 5s half crimp, Lattice edge, 4x straight arm and 4x 90' lock. Found the former nails and had to have 20kg off to do. Locks easier, started at 15kg off but last 2 upped to 17kg. Found the whole session really hard. Arms definitely a limiting factor more than fingers.
Th - Ilkley. Knackered from lack of sleep. Warmed up a bit slowly. Sorted all the sequences on Calf Traverse so hopefully that's nicely lined up for a future session. 6/7 goes at link up project. 2nd was best, pretty much matched my high point. Later on worked out a new way for the crux move which I think will be the way; means you can take the crucial hold in much more control. Quite glad James didn't do it if I'm honest, would really like to get it done!
F - lunchtime conditioning; one arm rows, bent over Ys, gym ball hamstring and core stuff.
Sa - pick up FB to start. Pinky and index monos, and middle 2. Plus 3x 6 weighted pull ups +13kg. Then down to Anston Stones. Bit of a humbling visit really. According to my training plan should have done a limit board session focusing on 1-3 move problems. Basically did that on rock. Tried Soul Crusher, Black Crow and Dark Art. Didn't do a single one of the hard moves on any of them but tried hard at least. Did a couple of easier things albeit not without difficulty. Think I'm well out of practice on this style!
Su - rest
Can't work out whether this is a high volume week or whether I'm just lazy! Do you warm up at all for the conditioning sessions or just smash straight into it? Ditto the lunch sessions; before or after you eat lunch?
My normal weeks are 3 sessions of fingerboard/wall in the week and then get out where possible at the weekend, if its wet do another session. Maybe there's scope for me to increase the load a bit. :-\
We need Gollum back in here, then you’ll feel really lazy
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Whatever happened to gollum?? Did he decide that the 20 mins of relative inactivity posting on Power Club was interfering with his training-for-training too much and disappear to fully focus on impeccable intensity??
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Yeah I miss Gollum's weekly description of the punishment he put himself through. When I bought a bouldering pad off him he mentioned an Achilles injury so I'd imagine hes been rehabbing that.
Yeah, makes sense; presume you are eating lunch as soon as you finish those sessions then? I find myself taking the whole allocated lunch break to do a session most of the time by the time I've warmed up. Easy for them to drift towards an hour when I warm up properly, and if I don't get warm I'm not recruited properly, so its a tricky one.
I like the rings/TRX sessions but don't have any here, could definitely do weighted pull ups easily though as the big muscle groups take less to get going than fingers.
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Easy for them to drift towards an hour when I warm up properly, and if I don't get warm I'm not recruited properly, so its a tricky one.
My fingerboard warmup takes 10-15 minutes max. I do something every minute on the minute with increasing intensity. Generally it starts with scap. pullups or just engaging my lats, and then I stick some weighing scales under the fingerboard and go from 50% bodyweight up to hanging my target weight for 1-2 seconds - then I'm ready to go. By the time I'm done with the workout, whatever I put on for lunch is ready.
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And yes definitely have to warm up! But generally doesn't take me long.
Details please!
In a nutshell, gradually increasing intensity of whatever I'm doing that session, plus scapular shrugs and holds, some pulse raisers, maybe some bodyweight movement stuff. Not too much though, focus is mainly on doing what the session is for, so I'll be on the fingerboard straight away doing hangs to warm up for a fingerboard session.
@SM yes lunch after
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If I’m going to fingerboard during lunchtime while WFH I squeeze the orange one of these (https://www.amazon.co.uk/IVIM-Strengtheners-Set：Hand-Stretchers-Rehabilitation/dp/B07DPJ3ZJ7) (best secret Santa present I’ve ever got) at my desk for about 30-60 minutes beforehand. I then do a few theraband pulls and just get on the BM. All my routines start on the biggest holds on it so I guess that’s part of the warm-up too.
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M - Wall. OK board session followed by remainder of evening working on some steep and quite basic problems on prow. Made good progress inc really hard low start to something I had almost given up on. Generally felt good but also too heavy.
T - Pulls. 2 arm weighted pulls to 5x+24kg, then locks (90 and 120deg) at -12kg, started bicep and hammer curls, but forearms felt a bit sore. Then mini stretch. Want to persevere with this session (inc 1 arm progression and front lever) as I made great progress in late 2020 - just need to not overdo it the evening before.
W - KB press / pushups / lat raise / goblets squats / long stretch
T - Wall. Tried board, but fingers felt a bit stiff / uncomfortable, and didn't really wake up. Ended up doing some steep buggy stuff, then a bit of circuit board. Decent stretching session when I got home.
F - 9km walk
S - Wall. Still not full power. Tried board for a bit and then continued on prow things from Monday. Subpar, but tried really hard and managed to do some stuff ok. 10km black walk pm.
S - Rest
I think I got carried away with too much stuff early in the week and didn't recover. Going to experiment a bit over the next fortnight and see if extra protein might make any difference. Need to add in some endurance and longer boulders too. Have definite sense that, if I can get down to high 80something kg I would get a massive mental boost from unleashing all the strength I've gained and might then appreciate that getting fit would mean I'd be in position to get a lot of my route list ticked this year...
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Fair enough, if that works for you. How do you drop weight and keep energy levels up? I'm obviously training a bit heavy this winter, which means I'll probably need to drop 2-3kg in the spring. I've never really tried to time some limited weight loss for a trip (if ever I've been heavy I've just done the young guy thing of eating less and training more, but that doesn't seem to work at 38!
I'm guessing you need to just reduce volume a bit and focus more on maintenance rather than gains? How long over, 2-3 weeks?
Metabolism remains relatively stable from 20 to 60 years old:
https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/science.abe5017
Unfortunately that means 38 is no excuse :tease:
However, I'm also finding my diet harder than in the past at 32! I think it's probably due to moving less.
2-3kg shouldn't be too difficult though and a month would be about the right timeframe to lose it
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My experiences differ to yours then. My best performances have been when I’m about 11 stone or a bit under so weighing in at 11.10 (the most Ive been in recent years around Xmas is 11.12) was a shock especially as I’d thought I’d lost weight on the trip and concerning as it takes me a long time to lose weight and I’m higher than normal for this time of year.
The 11.4-6 range is my target as it is sustainable and allows me drop to my (unsustainable) redpoint weight within a few weeks, for a few weeks.
Since I'm currently wrestling with a similar issue I'll share mine in case it helps. N=1 obviously, and this is also only looking at one metric...
Likely my best period for performance was November - December 2017. At the time I weighed somewhere around 66-68kg. I've climbed at the same level a bunch of times since, whilst weighing up to 74kg, but more normally around 70-72kg. I currently weigh c. 77-78kg.
When I was at that super low weight and climbing really well, my 2-rep max pull up was bodyweight +29kg = c. 96kg or 143% of bodyweight.
I've not been feeling nearly as good with my climbing essentially since the pandemic started, during which my weight went up because I was moving less but also I put on what I would call general muscular bulk; not necessarily functional for climbing but certainly not fat and helpful for general health and resistance to injury.
My 2-rep max pull up is now bodyweight +25kg = 102-3kg or 132% of bodyweight.
The point is that whilst my absolute strength has gone up in terms of the total weight I can lift, my relative strength has gone down. Muscle is heavy and building strength will naturally lead to weight gain, the trick is to ensure that we're able to generate increasing relative strength, more than absolute strength. I think you should therefore worry less about how much you weigh, and more about how strong you are relative to that weight.
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I do that no hangs faddy thing as a warm up then some shrugs. Seems to work for getting fingers ready
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Bradders, for the relative strength equation do you think it's easier to lose weight or gain strength?
I think it's much much easier to gain strength. I expect I will be able to get down to around 79kg on my current diet and i'll likely be sub 5% bodyfat going off past experience. That's about 5kg less than my starting point and i'll lose a bit of absolute strength getting there. At that point there's no more weight to lose and if i remain at that weight i'd expect further strength losses, poor recovery and increased likelihood of injury. On the other hand, gaining strength on my max hangs, pullups, etc is not likely to be capped at 5kg.
However, on the basis that strength gains should be better in a slight calorie surplus, I'm planning on getting as light as possible to create a buffer for 6-12 months of weight gain where i'll aim to gain no more than 0.5kg per month. Hopefully it's successful and I come out of it with better relative strength!
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Bradders, for the relative strength equation do you think it's easier to lose weight or gain strength?
Depends on who you are, where you're at with your climbing, and whether you're thinking short term or long term... There are really two separate Qs:
1. which is easier/more likely to work short term
2. which is more likely to work long term
For a young person with limited training experience it would undoubtedly be more sensible long term to gain strength, and quite possibly just as "easy" short term. If you've reached the point where you're struggling to make notable strength gains then it's likely to be much easier to lose weight; however, it may be less prudent long-term as you'll limit gains. So take your pick - you wanna maximise your chances of doing 8B now or doing 8B+ in a few years...?
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I guess all this joints points again to there being no universal "correct" approach. I feel that I was limiting strength gains (and picking up regular injuries) through underfuelling (chronic, not "dieting") and that for my long term performance (and the fact I do trad, alpine and winter also) just being a bit overall "stronger" might be a better play, with some specific periods for projects etc. Where I lose a few kg.
We'll see...
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There are a few stages but difficult to pinpoint exactly where you are
1. Obviously too fat
2. Fat enough to optimally fuel and supercompensate from strength training
3. Sustainably thin enough to climb well but compromise strength gainz
4. Unsustainably thin enough to crush
5. Live miserably long term in an unsustainably thin state but still crush
6. Seek medical help and bravely post on Instagram about your struggle so others can learn whilst it being obvious you kicked ass whilst thin
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End-of-year goals:
Onsight/flash 5 F7as
Boulder Fb7A+
AIM: 71kg 12% bodyfat
January goals:
Build foundations and training capacity - I am going to count this achieved
Somewhat on topic of the above I've dropped to 72.1kg but my scales still say I am 15% fat (down from 72.3kg and 15.4% last week). Ideally I would like to add muscle in shoulders (for injury prevention) and arms (because gunz) but then drop weight to 71kg at a lower bodyfat. In the past I found it easyish to add muscle and easy to drop fat but seems harder now I am approaching 40. I'll see how it goes with regular gym.
M: 2 sets 10 full body workout, 3 sets shoulders. Good considering I squeezed it into a work schedule.
Tu: 6:4 repeaters x 3 sets, bodyweight + 2.5kg. This is the best I've ever done at repeaters. Thin & fat pinches 14kg x 10 sec x 2 each side.
Wed: Rest
Thu: Aerocap 3x3s. 4 sets of triple routes, hardest 6b+. Did better this week at keeping in the aerobic zone but still got too pumped towards the end and had to end on double 6a+. 14 routes total.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Hard bouldering and density hangs 30 sec x 3. I must do these with a pulley in future as hard to gauge how much assistance I am giving with a toe on the wall. First time I have done harder bouldering for a while. Best was a V5/6 circuit problem 3rd go, flashed it after the 2nd move. Fingers feeling stronger.
Also went swimming in the filthiest community pool I have ever been in. My 4yr old son loved it though ;D
Sun: Family walk
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Bradders, for the relative strength equation do you think it's easier to lose weight or gain strength?
As Alex said, it depends on the individual.
For me I've always found manipulating my weight next to impossible. When I was really light it had nothing to do with any conscious strategy or approach on my part, it just happened! And I also know that I'm relatively weak in a few areas, so focusing on strength is an easy choice to make.
I do think this list is quite an old fashioned way of looking at it. The focus is on fat, when it should be on muscle, and your ability to move the weight you have.
There are a few stages but difficult to pinpoint exactly where you are
1. Obviously too fat
2. Fat enough to optimally fuel and supercompensate from strength training
3. Sustainably thin enough to climb well but compromise strength gainz
4. Unsustainably thin enough to crush
5. Live miserably long term in an unsustainably thin state but still crush
6. Seek medical help and bravely post on Instagram about your struggle so others can learn whilst it being obvious you kicked ass whilst thin
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Must strive to be more on message
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I can’t really remember what I did last week. I think it was a bit crap for climbing - had a few evenings out having drinks/dinner and then went to a Friends for the weekend (inc. an afternoon floating in bubbles at the Spa!).
I think the only climbing I did was a home assessment for a mini training plan before our trip in April.
Max hangs (2 hands) on a 27mm campus rung - last successful attempt was +45kg (63% BW).
Max weighted pull-ups (2 reps) - last successful attempt was +25kg (35% BW)
Lactate Curve Testing (this was bad!). Did this with 60% of max hang total weight (ended up -1.75kg) doing 7:3 repeaters for as long as possible, rest for same length of last rep length. Results were:
143s
60s
34s
23s
Fail
Didn’t managed to pull onto the 5th (of what should be 8) rep.
Got my results through and needless to say, I need to work on my Aerobic Capacity. I’ve got about 9 weeks before we head off so hopefully I can make some good gains over this period. Aim is to increase max hang weight a bit too, and same for pull ups.
Session plans are now:
Two sessions of:
1) Warm up
2) 85% max hangs
3) Normal board session
4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.
5) Weighted Pull ups
Then some density hangs and v.light aerobic work separate to this.
My aim for the plan was to allow it to fit around a normal board session, not be too boring, and nothing super structured as I just wouldn’t do it otherwise. This seems like a nice setup/compromise. Did the first trial of it yesterday which went well.
As a complete aside, my partner managed 82% BW on some 1-arm hangs yesterday (27mm campus rung - so bigger than normal testing size). She’d like to get up some 7a’s on our trip. I’m assuming this should be more than strong enough - just that she needs to be able work on her (far worse than mine) aerobic capacity more?
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As a complete aside, my partner managed 82% BW on some 1-arm hangs yesterday (27mm campus rung - so bigger than normal testing size). She’d like to get up some 7a’s on our trip. I’m assuming this should be more than strong enough - just that she needs to be able work on her (far worse than mine) aerobic capacity more?
82% bodyweight one arm hang is probably enough finger strength to climb font 8A let alone sport 7a.
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Session plans are now:
Two sessions of:
1) Warm up
2) 85% max hangs
3) Normal board session
4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.
5) Weighted Pull ups
I presume number 4 here is circuits, 1 minute on 1 minute off?
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I’ve done loads of sport 7as (but not many harder) and I don’t think I’ve ever been able to hang that much off one arm.
Looking back to the last one I climbed I could lock off 75% BW using one of those gym machines where you’re pulling down on a cable attached to a pulley. That’s using a juggy handle rather than an edge obviously.
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Session plans are now:
Two sessions of:
1) Warm up
2) 85% max hangs
3) Normal board session
4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.
5) Weighted Pull ups
I presume number 4 here is circuits, 1 minute on 1 minute off?
Yeah that’s right. Doing in on our 25 degree board. Currently just using a mix of holds - randomly moving around at the moment. Did 7 repeats of it yesterday and I as close to failing on the 7th. So maybe a little hard but think I could battle through until the 9th at this kind of level.
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Session plans are now:
Two sessions of:
1) Warm up
2) 85% max hangs
3) Normal board session
4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.
5) Weighted Pull ups
I presume number 4 here is circuits, 1 minute on 1 minute off?
Yeah that’s right. Doing in on our 25 degree board. Currently just using a mix of holds - randomly moving around at the moment. Did 7 repeats of it yesterday and I as close to failing on the 7th. So maybe a little hard but think I could battle through until the 9th at this kind of level.
Obviously I am not a training guru by any stretch, but I'd be thinking of doing the weighted pullups at the start of the session rather than right at the end? Thought so re the circuits; when I did aerocap I used to do 1on, 1 off x10, so 20 mins total, at the enbd of a session and normally use the 6a circuit on the Depot board. I didn't ever get above about 4/10 pumped; I;d have thought if you're failing on aerocap you're moving into aeropow a bit? Will still be doing you good though obviously!
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Session plans are now:
Two sessions of:
1) Warm up
2) 85% max hangs
3) Normal board session
4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.
5) Weighted Pull ups
I presume number 4 here is circuits, 1 minute on 1 minute off?
Yeah that’s right. Doing in on our 25 degree board. Currently just using a mix of holds - randomly moving around at the moment. Did 7 repeats of it yesterday and I as close to failing on the 7th. So maybe a little hard but think I could battle through until the 9th at this kind of level.
Obviously I am not a training guru by any stretch, but I'd be thinking of doing the weighted pullups at the start of the session rather than right at the end? Thought so re the circuits; when I did aerocap I used to do 1on, 1 off x10, so 20 mins total, at the enbd of a session and normally use the 6a circuit on the Depot board. I didn't ever get above about 4/10 pumped; I;d have thought if you're failing on aerocap you're moving into aeropow a bit? Will still be doing you good though obviously!
Cheque/Liam - that’s good to know, thanks! With a bit of work on endurance I’m sure she’ll be getting her fair share of 7a’s then!
The pull ups aren’t that bad really (only 3x5 below max) so they seem okay at the end. But will see how it feels Mixing them up.
And yeah I think the circuits are probably a bit hard. Way harder than the depot 6a - I don’t think I’d really recover on any of the holds at the moment. I’d say it’s more like climbing a depot board 6c circuit level.
Though it’s hard to get the level down much below that without a load of new bigger holds, or going a lot slower. I’d say when I got to the last rep (#7 - going to up it to 10 next time) I was about 6 or 7/10 pumped. Possibly into the power range as you say…
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Just step off, or put a foot on the ground for a bit. You can (CAN, but it's dull as fuck) do a decent aerocap routine on a fingerboard standing o the ground. I've done it on my 30* board standing on the ground and just working around various holds.
Sounds like you could bring your overall circuit difficulty down using the same holds just by the above ^^
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Fun level seems much reduced though, which I think might be a main point of the training regime!
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I’d say when I got to the last rep (#7 - going to up it to 10 next time) I was about 6 or 7/10 pumped. Possibly into the power range as you say…
6/10 pumped is quite a long way from failure, at least according to my scale. It sounds about right for this 1on 1off style of training, which should feel more intense. Depends on the calibration of your scale I guess?
Bear in mind that the crimpd advice for this session is "At the end of all 10 reps you should be tired, pumped and find it challenging to finish the final minute of climbing."
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p.s judging the aerocap intensity seems to be the thing that people most consistently get wrong with endurance training.
My rule of thumb for aerocap training is that you shouldn't fail, but by the end of the workout you should really want (not need) to stop - i.e you could probably bust out one or two more sets, but you really don't want to.
This kind of works for all types of aerobic workouts, be it the more intense, shorter intervals you are doing to the "10 minutes on the wall" snooze-fests.
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Just step off, or put a foot on the ground for a bit. You can (CAN, but it's dull as fuck) do a decent aerocap routine on a fingerboard standing o the ground. I've done it on my 30* board standing on the ground and just working around various holds.
Sounds like you could bring your overall circuit difficulty down using the same holds just by the above ^^
I have this session 1/2 times a week ontop of the others. Just 10-15 mins doing that. But it’s a good option for when/if the circuits are too hard as well, thanks.
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p.s judging the aerocap intensity seems to be the thing that people most consistently get wrong with endurance training.
My rule of thumb for aerocap training is that you shouldn't fail, but by the end of the workout you should really want (not need) to stop - i.e you could probably bust out one or two more sets, but you really don't want to.
This kind of works for all types of aerobic workouts, be it the more intense, shorter intervals you are doing to the "10 minutes on the wall" snooze-fests.
Thanks Stu, I definitely wanted to stop yesterday, though think I could have managed a few more reps - but they would have been a fight. I guess that means that, at the moment, I would probably fail to do 10 reps at this intensity, coming off somewhere around 8/9. But hopefully that will improve quickly. Or I could just do 50s on for the first few weeks to get up to the 10 reps level.
If lattice said the same as you quoted, but with 8 rather than 10, I think the intensity would have been perfect…
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If you've got 2-3 moves on the circuit where you're close to the floor, just use the floor for feet instead. That'll probably get it about right.
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Though it’s hard to get the level down much below that without a load of new bigger holds
I've got around 20 juggy tee nut holds that are sat around not doing anything as I bought a used set of around 100 holds to start my board. I'd swap them for a few smaller/harder holds in return (doesn't need to be same amount in return).
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Just step off, or put a foot on the ground for a bit. You can (CAN, but it's dull as fuck) do a decent aerocap routine on a fingerboard standing o the ground. I've done it on my 30* board standing on the ground and just working around various holds.
Sounds like you could bring your overall circuit difficulty down using the same holds just by the above ^^
I'm intrigued by the feet on ground fingerboard circuit approach. I'm being dim: is the idea to shuffle/piano play around the fingerboard for a set interval? Would throwing in some step up/downs onto a stool be worthwhile or missing the point?
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Just step off, or put a foot on the ground for a bit. You can (CAN, but it's dull as fuck) do a decent aerocap routine on a fingerboard standing o the ground. I've done it on my 30* board standing on the ground and just working around various holds.
Sounds like you could bring your overall circuit difficulty down using the same holds just by the above ^^
I'm intrigued by the feet on ground fingerboard circuit approach. I'm being dim: is the idea to shuffle/piano play around the fingerboard for a set interval? Would throwing in some step up/downs onto a stool be worthwhile or missing the point?
Probably someone better placed to answer than me, but I think it is meant to stimulate blood flow through your forearms, without getting pumped, to help with recovery. Similar to staying on the wall for 10/20 mins without ever trying hard at all.
My physio (who did the training plan) also said this can be combined with using different grip, putting fingers in different slots, at different heights etc to get fingers used to being in different positions whilst doing something low intensity
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Thanks! That's helpful, so basically keep moving around without getting pumped to the point where I really want to stop, not have to stop.
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That's not really possible! If you weren't getting pumped, what would make you stop? :-\
Training aerocap on a fingerboard is just a way of replicating the same session without a wall. So if you were supposed to larn about on a climbing wall for ten minutes on, ten minutes off, you could do the same on a fingerboard.
Just put some weight on your fingers and move around the holds, just as if you were climbing. But keep your feet on the floor.
Aim to get just as pumped as you would in the similar session on the wall...
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Good point! I'm not sure what I was expecting... Some wholly new aerocap induced sensation/forearm umami perhaps. Thanks.
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That's not really possible! If you weren't getting pumped, what would make you stop? :-\
The crushing feeling of wasting the vanishingly short time we each have in this universe on aerocap?
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Yeah, but you get it back from the time saved not blowing redpoints.
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Bit late with this weeks, how's it Thurday already...
More time on rock again and not as much training again but that's the point of being a rock climber surely.
M. Skin still a bit thin from 5 days on in Font but couldn't resist heading out in the good weather. Went out to Caley to just do my usual easy circuit at Roadside from 5 - 7a. Decided to have a few pull ons to my ultimate nemisis Crystal Method, to my surprise I felt very close to sticking the move into the RH gaston, there was almost stopage in the hold which was a massive break through having never been close to moving up off the LH.
Back home did Pull up Pyramid @ +8.75kg, +13.75, +22.5, +28.75, +35
3x8 reps of Flys, Press ups and Archer rows on Ring plus negative flys on TRX.
W.
Morning: Weighted repeaters on bottom edges on BM1000. 6 sets of 6/4 @ +21.25kg
Afternoon: Caley with Will. Tried Ranieri's Reach for a little bit, didn't actually do either of the hard moves in the middle but was close enough to feel that I could. Feels like it would take a fair bit of work though.
Then went back to try CM after Mondays break through. First go pulled on a stuck the move into the RH for the first time ever but then frustratingly the LH pinged off the crimp as I was eying up the lip. Then the classic I'll do that next go tuned into going backwards for the next couple of hours, on the verge of giving up again I said one last go and then finally stuck the move agian and sealed the deal.
I've been trying this on and off since the start of 2015 so by far the longest I've ever tried something for despite it being multiples grade below plenty of stuff I've done! Made up to have finally done it.
T. Quick afterwork session to meet Bradder at Ilkley to have a go at the SDS link into Bernie. Got close getting into the high LH crimp just beneath the jugs, got my foot up few times to set up for the last move to them but didn't have the beans to go for it. Seems like it'll be a good sustained link, just need to wait for Nick to do it now.
Sat. Weighted repeaters on both bottom and top edges on BM1000. 6 sets of 6/4, 3x @ +21.25kg and 3x @ +2.5kg
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Way behind with logging this. Playing catch up...
M - Good but short session on the board climbing mainly circuit 1 and 2 problems. Hard to get going though.
T - Fingerboard - endurance / regen - 7 on, 3 off, 8 sets, 71 hangs
W - rest
T - Slow start,and felt crap warming up and on the first few problems but managed to stick with it long enough. Eventually I got going and had the best session on the board for a long time. Climbed almost all established problems on the board and towards the end of the sesh managed the hard problem I failed on at the start. Clearly just needed enough time to warm up...19 - 1hr 30
F - Fingerboard - endurance / regen - 7 on, 3 off, 8 sets, 78 hangs
S - kids party :thumbsdown:
S - in-laws...