UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Fultonius on April 24, 2011, 03:50:07 am
-
Since I'm 4 hrs ahead in Azerbaijan, thought I'd kick this one off :strongbench:
This week has had been a bit of a :shit: training wise.
STG May 2011: Onsight E4 in the Hebrides, a new >7b route outside, repeat some problems at Dumby - Consolidated 7B+, Mugsy Traverse 7B, Mestizo Traverse 7B, Slap Happy 7A~, Mestizo Sitter (7A+ with a testing heel hook for my gimp leg)
LTG: E5 O/S, Fr8a, >7C
Monday: Multi-Pitch easy trad. Had a crazy swollen sore finger so we just did a VS, then jogged the Stac Pollaidh ridge and most of the way back to the car.
Tue: Nowt - Serious case of Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness from the downhill run. It was like a full-on DOMS-CANO had erupted in my legs!
Wed: DOMS & Travel to Azerbaijan
Thur: DOMS & 12hr work
Fri: DOMS & 12 hr work & Some press-ups! Did windmill press-ups which are like regular ones but you rotate into a side plank. Quite fun and hard work.
Sat: NO MORE DOMS! Oh, wait....Lats are all DOMed up after the pressups. :weakbench: Did some Rotator Cuff Pre-Hab with a theraband and scapula wall slides - get rid of those looming injuries before they happen!
Sun: 12hr8hrs 8) Work, might go for a run later.
Forgot my swimming goggles and this finger is still hurting. Really don't know what I've done to it. Quite tender on the bone on the back side of the finger just up from the second joint. Think I'll stay off the fingerboard for a while.
-
Font cont...
Monday - Achey, decide to have a walk along the Rempart, then sit around Cuvier and watch people. Do some orange stuff, fail to get off the ground on a slab which turns out to be F7A. Get a nice tan.
Tuesday AM - Buthiers Piscine, don't bring the map and get lost straightaway eventually find the circuits, do a few blues, some reds and even back off the same black twice on the last and easiest move.
Tuesday PM - Evening visit to Franchard Sablons, Shoulder hurts but still do some blues, get coached up one that's been bothering me for a long time by some German girls. Drink Pastis.
Wednesday - Go home. Highlight of the visit - Meeting Sebastien Papillion!
Thursday - nothing
Friday - Physio
Saturday - Indoor session - Finger is sore, so don't do much.
Sunday - walk 3h around Paris...stopping on route for beer.
-
STG: more 7A's
MTG (in 2001): 7A+/7B
M: 3x DB complex, 4.5m run, core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, press-ups, BM: pull-ups and one arm max hangs, core (500) & theraband
W: nothing
T: nothing
F: drove to see relatives in Norfolk, ate too much & drank too much
S: 5m run, ate too much & drank too much
S: 6m run, ate too much
Rubbish week but hopefully the next will be better!
-
STG - Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG - font 7c & F8a
Mon - busy
Tue - busy
Wed - half hearted bouldering sess at works
Thurs - lunchtime circuit sess at works
Fri - busy
Sat - bouldered at rubicon and ravon tor
Sun - 3 mile (ish) run. asthma bad so felt a struggle
-
A trip to wales on Thursday and Friday so decided to not train or climb in the lead up.
Didn't climb well at all over the two days but did manage to tick a Pill Box Original that had stumped me in the past.
-
STG: 6b os in Arco at Easter
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
Arco Week One: proving more difficult than I expected to reconcile a a family holiday with a worthwhile amount of climbing, but the situation is not completely hopeless ...
M: Colodri via ferrata with kids. Couple of quick pitches on Baone slabs with Frau M in the evening.
T: Belvedere easy routes with kids. Squeezed in one 5c - nice pitch starting with a little roof: good 'cos I've always been a scaredy-cat on roofs on real rock.
W: Dro via ferrata with kids. Bought a bouldering mat, because early morning bouldering seemed at the time like the only possibility of getting anything whatsoever done.
T: Bouldering, Passo San Giovanni, early morning. Nice spot, decent bouldering. I wish people would grade their problems properly: got up two slabby things on the black "molto difficile" circuit, but they felt way harder than v diff.
Then: unable to get to start of planned via ferrata with kids: road closed for bike race. yyfy. Instead sent kids to lake with friends and went with Frau M to Regina del Lago. Got half a dozen routes in, incl. Illusione 6a+ onsight.
F: Via Ferrata with kids, Cima Rocco. More interesting than the previous ones: first world war tunnels.
S: Bouldering, Placche Zebrate. Would be a pleasant spot if it weren't for climbers bivvying in the carpark and shitting all over the place. Filthy bastards.
Baone slabs: first multipitch experience for kids. Some of the most pleasant easy climbing I've ever done.
S: (Easter picnic with friends near Verona)
-
proving more difficult than I expected to reconcile a a family holiday with a worthwhile amount of climbing
Mate, I feel for you. Thats why I never get beyond family/climbing holidays in Font. It is just easier there.
Could you suggest any english info on the Bouldering spot. I'm going to Arco in a couple of weeks and didn't really think there was any bouldering.
-
M - Nada
T - Pain
W-S - usual routine: one armers, levers, situps.
S - Nada. lotta chocolate.
Weight is sticking at 57kg, will try and keep it that way, then when I start climbing again I can lose a couple of kilos and feel light. Finger: still swollen. Might be slightly less tender, I might be kidding myself.
Can do 24 pullups. Will try and maintain this!
-
STG: (this spring) become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise. font 7A on both granite and tuff (have completed one on tuff this spring already). Quit tobacco
MTG: (this summer): font 7A+ on at least two rock types
LTG (this year): font 7B on at least two rock types
M: Work 15-03
T: Work 15-03
W: Happy Boulders, sent Sucker Punch 6C, East Easy Rider 6C, Vulcan Traverse 6C, tried Disco Diva 7B and felt very close.
T: Nada
F: Cleaned the house
S: Happy Boulders, sent: Disco Diva 7B, The Hulk 7A, Weekender 6B, a few assorted other problems. Met a family of gorgeous young hippies and their 2 yr old son, the mom was an absolutely amazing hula hooper. :) Took a long soak in a hot springs with an amazing woman who unfortunately lives ~600Km away. :shrug: In all, a fabulous day. So, so psyched.
S: Slept in. Fixed a flat tire on my truck. Took a walk up in the Buttermilk Country.
Feeling about as strong on the boulders as I ever have. I feel ready to take it up a notch. Unfortunately the bouldering season here in Bishop is winding down, it's almost time to start heading up into the high country for some techy slick granite on which I am piss-poor at bouldering. Which means, I suppose, that I have a lot to learn and gain from climbing on it. But I don't have high expectations for sends. Still haven't quit tobacco. :shrug:
-
VSTG: sort out shoulder problem and climb again
STG: tick The Cliff up to 6c+
LTG: Font 7b
M - 10k run on lunch
T - Went to Brimham after work spotting and taking pics
W - 10k run on lunch, eve went to physio, got told to lay off for a couple of weeks, ice, ibu etc etc
T - Leaving do after work in Leeds followed by leaving do after work in York, 3am finish, hotel room :beer2: :beer2:
F - Mega hangover, snooze at lunchtime, drove up to The Cliff for a walk
S - Went to Earl spotting and taking pics
S - Went to Brimham spotting and taking pics, 9k run on return home
-
went to physio, got told to lay off for a couple of weeks, ice, ibu etc etc
An entire layoff? Never been sure about that unless the injury is properly severe (tear vs strain/pull) surely stopping hammering it is necessary but reducing your level to sub-pain threshold would be ok making easy (relative I know) trad/soloing etc feasible?
-
went to physio, got told to lay off for a couple of weeks, ice, ibu etc etc
An entire layoff? Never been sure about that unless the injury is properly severe (tear vs strain/pull) surely stopping hammering it is necessary but reducing your level to sub-pain threshold would be ok making easy (relative I know) trad/soloing etc feasible?
Yeah, was considering a pottering session some time soon.
I think the advice of a total layoff is mainly a precaution, but am going to follow it for the time being - with the weather so hot and my lack of enthusiasm to heed Dobbin's calling of the lime it's not like I'd be cranking hard anyway!
-
STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer.
MTG: E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.
M- Rest.
T- Repeaters on Beastmaker.
W- Repeaters on Beastmaker. Started on back three. Woah!
T- Rest.
F- Yarncliffe. Fun and climbing well. My mate is climbing well, too, which is normally what it takes for me to get into top gear. Feels like summer. ;D
S- Pleasley Vale. First limestone session this year! Managed traverse I've never done before and proceeded to repeat it 'til exaustion to gain Ondra-esque limestone stamina.
S- Walk up Kinder w/ non-climbing friend. Still did some easy soloing and bouldering despite not taking climbing shoes.
Getting in gear for the summer now. Three day week then a four day climbing trip! :2thumbsup: The beastmaker is worth its weight in gold- I'm doing repeaters on the most puntrified holds and already feeling gains and measurable progression. Really feels useful on limestone!
-
Aims (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16685.msg293475.html#msg293475)
.
m - couple of hours at burbage south - wrong choice hadn't paid attention to wind direction, bit muggy, bit greazy and I'd forgotten it's not a great place without a spotter. Backed off stuff mostly.
t
w - AM 6km test-run on bike with trailer (about 30kg), 2 reasonable climbs, c160m ascent. PM started pullup, pressup, core workout but had to cut it short about 1/3rd in.
t -
f - couple of hrs at Stanage, anticipated breeze not present so it was a sweat box, sacked the edge quickly and sought shade at the Plantation. Two pleasant finds, the lovely KitKat on the edge and the awesome Pebbledash - best move on the pebble?
s
s 16km/700m ascent ride around derwent reservoir with kids in trailer.
A poor week, two bad crag choices, little chance to do anything at home and lots of yummy leftover cakes from the kids party. Struggled with a testpiece on Friday, form and/or fitness is definitely lacking.
-
Mon.Tired from weekend.So nothing also elbow playing up.Feels more related when i broke it 30 years ago than golfers/tennis elbow.
Tue.Rockcity just repeated stuff.
Wed.Wedding anniversary drank loads.
Thu.Rough.
Fri.Weights.Bike 2hrs 40 mins.
Sat. Bike 3hrs 30 mins.Fried and battered.
Sun.Social commitments so Leeds Wall good session.
Elbow a bit of a worry seems to be more arthritic changes rather tendon.However did those dumbell elbow exs anyway.
-
Could you suggest any english info on the Bouldering spot. I'm going to Arco in a couple of weeks and didn't really think there was any bouldering.
Info posted under abroad (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17632.0.html), so as not to be off topic in Power Club
-
M - Gentle weights and pullups
T-S Absolute stinker of a headcold and work/travel meant sleep was the only training worthwhile.
Now in Abersoch for a week and will hopefully shake off this cold.
-
11.9-6
M Busy at work.
T Busy at work.
W Busy at work.
T Busy at work.
F Early AM Frustrating client meeting. Lunch. Up to Malham with boys and Emma. Hot conditions especially when breeze dropped. F&E + RC to warm up. Worked go on Baboo. One decent redpoint attempt in appalling heat. One useless attempt.
S AM Tor with Poppy and met Tommy. Sardine with consummate ease. Ran out of steam dogging up Crucifixion so bailed.
S
M Malham and success (http://27crags.com/climbers/shark/blog)
Stressy post-Font week at work. Managed to lose some weight. No likey this hot weather.
-
Not my normal week! Unusually I think I can claim success on my ST goal as no-one said "who let this idiot on the boat" and I seemed to keep up pretty well on the climbing, not least flashing the second ascent of a 7b thing on which the FAer seemed to being working hard.
:2thumbsup:
Sounds like you are going well - nice work. Article dishing the dirt and pics of unsaid legends ?
-
Stressy post-Font week at work. Managed to lose some weight. No likey this hot weather.
Those cold beers are a killer aren't they :2thumbsup:
-
M Malham and success (http://27crags.com/climbers/shark/blog)
Well done Simon. Shock of the New! (sounds much better than Baboo-baboo)
M - Work
T - Work
W - Arch 2x20 mins aerobic endurance
T - Work
F-M - Pembroke: much trad. including 3 or 4 x E3s if you believe some guides.
An excellent 4 days at the seaside. Small beer on a weekend when Point Blank was climbed by someone as their second ever trad. route but it represents personal progress.
Still getting pumped too quickly and need to relax more when
fiddling in gear but this will get better with practice, this is the first UK trad. for 6 months.
-
Quick post..
Harmers on Monday and Friday. I need a spotter, getting stopped by height/bottle on my projects there..
Was back to 11.5stn..
Now working on my Souvlaki belly in Greece :)
-
Time to get involved in this again I think, need to start keeping track again.
Sat: Burren. Toproped GF's project with her in an act of chivalery. Tried Classic E3, slipped off after crux with finger still in sharp mono. Thankfully only a minor flapper.
Sun: Day spent on GF's project. Might have to lead it myself soon.
Mon: Work
Tues: Board. Stamina plodding
Wed: Nowt
Thurs: Nada
Friday: Zip
Sat: Polldoo glen Donegal. Nice day doing lots of easy highball classics. Put up a nice new line around 6b.
Sun: Gola island, Donegal. Heavy seas rule out ab in routes so spend day wandering and exploring. Find new wall.
Mon: Gola. Put up new VS and E2 on the new wall. Both onsight. Very satisfactory. I love ireland :)
-
Nice one Simon, many congrats.
Andy
-
Back from Font an surprised to see this not locked yet...
Goals: As usual
M: Fingerboard - Good session
T: PE Circuits @ The works - Hard!
W: Onsighting @ Horseshoe - Did a bunch of stuff up to 6b+ and retro flashed a 7a.
T: Work night out :pissed:
F: :sick: Drive to London :sick:
S: Drive to Font
S: Rocher Cannon and Haute Plain - Too bloody hot, didn't do la cochille but didn't blow me finger up on it so a bit of a result! Short AeroCap session to finish :clap2:
Good week... Good to get on the string outside, took a couple of routes to get back into the swing but nice to find F7a feeling easy (wish the same could be said for forest 7A)...
:D
-
.... <wrong week>