UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: LP on October 28, 2019, 07:45:32 pm
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With grit season approaching , I'd like to treat myself to a new down jacket - needs to be as close to standing in a volcano as is possible . Anyone got any recommendations? Tia.
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With grit season approaching , I'd like to treat myself to a new down jacket - needs to be as close to standing in a volcano as is possible . Anyone got any recommendations? Tia.
Whilst I own a couple of down jackets - for bouldering I tend to use a thick Montane fluffy lined winter jacket thing - which is heavy but dead warm. Its simmilar to buffalo clothing from a while back in feel. For something more lightweight I use a synthetic insulated jacket (got a decathlon/simond one)... for me that and a fleece on underneath is a better combo than Down. Nice as a super fluffy down jacket is.. they tend not to stay fluffy for that long - are shit when it rains (even with water proof outers) - and I find get really sweaty on walk ins etc.. (not very breathable)... Great for sitting on your arse in a campsite though....
I've got one of those lightweight down jackets (the ones with thin padding bars on them) which is great for going to the shops in - and was good on colder days on the beach in the summer - but not really up to the job of bouldering warmth...
Good thermals, good gloves (windproof) and hat make a real difference to me...
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Cheers Tom Tom, it was the sitting round on my arse warm that I was aiming for. I have a decent alpkit synthetic jacket but it just didn't seem to fend off the chills as good as a down jacket and I am very delicate... I probably need to stop being so precious! Gloves are definitely on my list as well!
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Nothing like a nice fat down to get wrapped in between goes on the coldest of days. I definitely don’t walk in wearing mine, it lives in my pad until I get to the boulders.
Often decent deals on eBay for expedition weight ones that have seen minor use.
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Often decent deals on eBay for expedition weight ones that have seen minor use.
or charity shops, if you're feeling lucky
I have an Alpkit Filo that I only use on really cold days. It's great.
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Didn't think of eBay- good idea. I bought an ex one of the early filos and thought it was good - the phantac looks good too but might be stretching the budget slightly...
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ME K7. It’ll last a lifetime if you don’t wash it.
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I got a heavyweight Rab from the Go Outside sale a few years back - generally wheel that out when it gets really cold. Other than that I've found that TX Maxx does a good line in cheap, smart work / down the pub type down jackets.
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ME K7. It’ll last a lifetime if you don’t wash it.
If you live anywhere near Manchester, there's an ME factory sale this weekend in Hyde at Magic Mountain. There will be ME down jackets at less than 50% of RRP.
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I have an ME Lightline which I'm very happy with; it's kept me nice and warm on even the coldest grit days and is more appealing cost wise.
However, if money were no object I'd have a Rab Resolution:
https://rab.equipment/uk/resolution-jacket
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Other than that I've found that TX Maxx does a good line in cheap, smart work / down the pub type down jackets.
Don't want to be preachy, but buying 'cheap' down is not cool unless it has 100% traceable down in it.
https://rab.equipment/uk/responsibility/product/responsible-down-standard/
http://www.thedowncodex.co.uk/
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The Rab factory shop in Alfreton (http://www.equipuk.com/uk.html) is a good source of cheap(er than usual) down.
They have periodic weekend events but in my experience they’re an absolute clusterfuck and it’s much nicer to go on a Wednesday or Thursday afternoon/ evening when it’s deserted and most of the stuff has the same reductions.
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I got a heavyweight Rab from the Go Outside sale a few years back - generally wheel that out when it gets really cold.
I got a similar one on Rock n Run, worth keeping an eye out there, to see if any come up on a deal.
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I picked one of these up for £200 in the sale on rock and run, amazing jacket, basically a wearable winter sleeping bag.
I have an ME Lightline which I'm very happy with; it's kept me nice and warm on even the coldest grit days and is more appealing cost wise.
However, if money were no object I'd have a Rab Resolution:
https://rab.equipment/uk/resolution-jacket
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The Rab factory shop in Alfreton (http://www.equipuk.com/uk.html) is a good source of cheap(er than usual) down.
They have periodic weekend events but in my experience they’re an absolute clusterfuck and it’s much nicer to go on a Wednesday or Thursday afternoon/ evening when it’s deserted and most of the stuff has the same reductions.
I went to the Rab factory outlet and got myself a Neutrino Pro, plus a Photon X (now called a Photon Pro). The Neutrino is super warm, nice fit, and great for sitting around doing nothing. However I'm more likely to use the synthetic Photon as it has two internal mesh pockets. Each one will fit a pair of shoes keeping them warm. My toes go numb pretty quickly, so if I keep my shoes warm, and warm my feet up while resting I can keep climbing for longer. For me it's just as important as keeping my core warm. Also, if it starts to rain I'm not concerned about it getting wet.
Worth mentioning that they often do an extra discount on the (mentally busy) weekend openings. But the weekday openings would be a lot quieter, and still bargainous.
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Don't want to be preachy, but buying 'cheap' down is not cool unless it has 100% traceable down in it.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/down-jackets-clothing-animal-welfare-investigation
From the outside, it looked like the outdoor industry was doing a great job. Then, last year, PETA made us all wince with another live-plucking video, claiming the down featured was in the Responsible Down Standard supply chain. Some digging revealed the problem: a loophole. Some slaughterhouses and suppliers are processing certified down alongside non-certified down or, even worse, down that knowingly stems from force-fed or live-plucked geese. As PETA pointed out this, “makes already complex supply chains even murkier”.
I think I remember originally reading the article in Summit?
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These days I’d take anything from PETA with a large pinch of salt, not the most ethical of companies themselves!
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With grit season imminent (already started?), the guardian has you covered to make sure you look the part at the crag this year. Point 10 being particularly pertinent!
https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/oct/28/all-wrapped-up-the-10-things-you-need-to-know-before-buying-a-duvet-coat
This is the hot 2020 look!
(https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/b360a8725a743e7f390d587beb0c70f2e2648f26/127_66_1973_2467/master/1973.jpg?width=1920&quality=85&auto=format&fit=max&s=17bac1ab7f9491269203972f279c83b2)
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Point 10 being particularly pertinent!
:lol: “Stand out at the crag with a sheen of years-old grime and tastefully-located gaffer appliqués”
To be fair to the article, underneath that picture of the beige thing and detail of how much a designer downj can set you back it basically says to just get a Rab one.
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I’ve taken the advice of having the front half undone showing off layers of multi coloured knitwear.
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As long as that’s all you’re showing off!
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I've got an spare ME down. Pretty warm, couple of small holes but never lost any down. Could do with a professional wash, which is about £30.
Let me know if you're interested and I can send some photos etc. It's blue.
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Whats the lowdown on washing these days (sheffield) - last time I did it - Franklins (Rab endorsed) was still open in Greystones.
Is there an equivalent place. I'd prefer to just pay someone to do it properly than fart about with tennis balls in our home drier.
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Alpkit repair place in Hathersage is supposed to be good
£30 I think
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Whats the lowdown on washing these days (sheffield) - last time I did it - Franklins (Rab endorsed) was still open in Greystones.
Is there an equivalent place. I'd prefer to just pay someone to do it properly than fart about with tennis balls in our home drier.
I bet the pro services do a superb job - especially on a body fat caked down post expedition job...
But - our fairly new (5yo) washing machine has a down cycle - and it’s done a pretty good job on my decathlon down. (With a tumble dry abs the odd shake)
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Thought I’d post how ridiculously cheap some down jackets are on magic mountain for those after a bargain
Eg ME Vega at £150 They tend to have limited sizes but if it fits..
https://www.magic-mountain.co.uk/collections/men/products/me-001790-vega-jacket-sample