UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: TobyD on May 04, 2011, 12:17:39 am
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Any informed opinions on a good sport rope?
I gave Mammut Galaxys one more chance, and they are definitively :shit:
I am after 9.5-10mm ish, 60 or 70m. Doesn't have to be super light, but not a cable, and reasonably hard wearing. I'll pay more if its not going to die after a few months use, which to be honest is all my Galaxy has had. Obviously i'd like the moon on a stick of cheap / lasts forever / weighs nowt, but realistically - a good compromise between the three will do
Edelweiss 9.8 / Edelrid 9.7 ?? The Beal 10.2s seem ok, but a bit fatter than i would like.
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I've been very happy with my Ocun, (http://www.megagrip.co.uk/products/Ropes/Ropes_guru.htm) Holga recommended them to me - he's had a couple and reckons they last well.
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Edelweiss 9.8 - had one of these at the start of the 6 monther, it didn't last well at all
Edelrid 9.7 - seem alright but love to coil
Beal Joker 9.1 - mine went fuzzy and flattened fast but seems to actually be wearing quite well now
Mammut vertex ~10 - just bought this as a wall rope, seems hard wearing but I'm guessing it'll turn into cabling.
Beal stinger 9.4(?) - other rope I had on the trip, this one far outlasted the Edelweiss and lasted a lot better than the current stinger.
I also have a Mammut half rope (the name escapes me) but its great, handles well and isn't showing any signs of wear.
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I've a beal 9.2 stinger III which is lasting nicely, think they are tricky to find now though.
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Mammut vertex ~10 - just bought this as a wall rope, seems hard wearing but I'm guessing it'll turn into cabling.
My Mammut Vertex does not seem to be lasting well. Used it a few weeks mainly indoors, then took it to Arco for two weeks where the sheath seemed to fuzz and nick alarmngly easily. Handling is still nice & soft though - although it occurs to me that "still nice & soft" and "fuzz alarmingly easily" may not be entirely unrelated phenomena.
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Best rope i have ever had is a Mammut Revelation. I bought it as an 80m, and just kept chopping it when needed. Bought it 4 years ago for my long trip, and still got it now. Albeit, 56m's of it.
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I'm also in the market for a new sport climbing rope. Agree about the Mammut galaxy and my experience of Beal ropes is they handle well but last about 5 minutes.
Anyone on here owned a Sterling rope? I've never had one but heard good things about them.
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Price wise I imagine it'll be hard to beat Serpico's Megagrip deal. If you're after a higher end rope I've been very pleased with my Mammut Infinity, 9.5 mm, 58 g / m but still rated at 7/8 falls, handles and wears very well. Also came lap coiled so non of the tangle I usually get when attempting (failing!) to uncoil for the first time. Got mine from North West Face at a bargin price, seem to have gone up now but still pretty competitive.
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Best rope i have ever had is a Mammut Revelation. I bought it as an 80m, and just kept chopping it when needed. Bought it 4 years ago for my long trip, and still got it now. Albeit, 56m's of it.
:agree:
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I've got a Mammut Spark (9.5mm) which I like:. Seems to be pretty hardwearing:
http://www.cragxclimbing.com/index.php?p=product&products_id=5781cid=9 (http://www.cragxclimbing.com/index.php?p=product&products_id=5781cid=9)
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Anyone on here owned a Sterling rope? I've never had one but heard good things about them.
I have the Sterling Nano (9.2?). It seems hard-wearing for a skinny rope but is a bit kinky, or perhaps that's just me? Groovy colours. Can be very cheap if bought in the USA, not cheap in the UK.
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FWIW: when looking for a sport rope last year I was told [by bloke running the shop] that many of the main Euro manufacturers had recently (~2009) moved their rope-weaving operations to Madagascar. I think this included at least Beal & Mammut. Despite using the same materials, manuf equipment etc there'd been a noticeable drop in quality - climbing walls were first to notice, sending ropes back as they'd worn out in half the expected time.
Any road up - his recommendation was to go for Edelrid since they were still manufacturing in Europe.
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Just looked at my join up date and realised I had been lurking for nearly 2 years..... Hello :wave:
Any opinions on Tendon? Looking to get my first rope for a Verdon/calanque/St Victoire escapade
Liked the deal below
http://www.rockandrescue.co.uk/outdoor-c2/climbing-c14/equipment-c63/ropes-c247/tendon-tendon-master-climbing-rope-97mm-x-60m-p3652 (http://www.rockandrescue.co.uk/outdoor-c2/climbing-c14/equipment-c63/ropes-c247/tendon-tendon-master-climbing-rope-97mm-x-60m-p3652)
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I was glad we had a 70m rope when I missed the ab-point on 2 x 50m abseil in Verdon, on stretch just reached a point where I could untie and scramble down (although I did have prussiks and a tibloc for such situations).
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Just looked at my join up date and realised I had been lurking for nearly 2 years..... Hello :wave:
Any opinions on Tendon? Looking to get my first rope for a Verdon/calanque/St Victoire escapade
rope as in singular for the Verdon? Bad plan if so, even an 80 doubled won't get you down some of the abs. Plus, some of the lines in the guide are a bit suspect and leave you (this happened to multiple teams) on much longer finishing pitches.
Calanques, pitches seem to be 30m in general. The weather can change very quickly from ridiculous sunshine to drowned rat so make sure you can ab (the ab achors as marked in the guide in the majority aren't used and are in varying states of decay). If you venture to en Vau, take some tat and a maillon. The walk and ab off leaves you with the choice of a fairly worn bolt (singular) or a tree that is being ruined by many abs (I didn't have tat).
I'd also advise not buying the Cote D'Azur guide and buying the local topo instead. Blanket use of the 'need gear' symbol renders it irrelevant, plus the descriptions are spectacularly lacking at times and it seems like the 'loose-rock' symbol has been put in willy nilly and neglected from climbs which are severely loose (think rocking pillar two body lengths long which you HAVE to climb). /rant
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Sounds like you had a great trip (pics certainly make it look like you did). :)
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Sounds like you had a great trip (pics certainly make it look like you did). :)
LX5's are THAT good, almost like a D3s. In all seriousness I/we did, the guide didn't leave me impressed but thats another thread that should probably go unopened.
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Just looked at my join up date and realised I had been lurking for nearly 2 years..... Hello :wave:
Any opinions on Tendon? Looking to get my first rope for a Verdon/calanque/St Victoire escapade
rope as in singular for the Verdon? Bad plan if so, even an 80 doubled won't get you down some of the abs. Plus, some of the lines in the guide are a bit suspect and leave you (this happened to multiple teams) on much longer finishing pitches.
Calanques, pitches seem to be 30m in general. The weather can change very quickly from ridiculous sunshine to drowned rat so make sure you can ab (the ab achors as marked in the guide in the majority aren't used and are in varying states of decay). If you venture to en Vau, take some tat and a maillon. The walk and ab off leaves you with the choice of a fairly worn bolt (singular) or a tree that is being ruined by many abs (I didn't have tat).
I'd also advise not buying the Cote D'Azur guide and buying the local topo instead. Blanket use of the 'need gear' symbol renders it irrelevant, plus the descriptions are spectacularly lacking at times and it seems like the 'loose-rock' symbol has been put in willy nilly and neglected from climbs which are severely loose (think rocking pillar two body lengths long which you HAVE to climb). /rant
Cheers for the info. Very usefull
Can you smell the novice?I think I should of expanded a bit there. Might be giving out visions of rapping into the void on a short rope & a prayer after completing my first 5+ at the local wall. I won't bore you with the details but I do understand what I could be getting into, particularly Verdon.
I am using the trip out as an excuse to finally buy one instead of begging borrowing,stealing everyone elses.
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enjoy, the verdon is spectacular.
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I bought an Edelrid Python from CragX at the start of last summer. 10mm x 70m. Great value and i've been really impressed with its handling and durability.
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enjoy, the verdon is spectacular.
:agree:
Fucking brilliant, maker sure you check out the aforementioned ( albeit possibly on other threads) pizzaplace in La Palude, Paul's not wrong when he says they're some of the best in the world.
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Just looked at my join up date and realised I had been lurking for nearly 2 years..... Hello :wave:
Any opinions on Tendon? Looking to get my first rope for a Verdon/calanque/St Victoire escapade
Liked the deal below
http://www.rockandrescue.co.uk/outdoor-c2/climbing-c14/equipment-c63/ropes-c247/tendon-tendon-master-climbing-rope-97mm-x-60m-p3652 (http://www.rockandrescue.co.uk/outdoor-c2/climbing-c14/equipment-c63/ropes-c247/tendon-tendon-master-climbing-rope-97mm-x-60m-p3652)
I think Tendon do a few different ropes under the 'Master' banner, mine (blue, possibly 9.6mm) is the least hard wearing rope I've ever owned - you only have to stare at the sheath and it starts to wear thin. I know a couple of other people with the same model who've had exactly the same experience.
Handles great, just don't fall or lower off on it.
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Fucking brilliant, maker sure you check out the aforementioned ( albeit possibly on other threads) pizzaplace in La Palude, Paul's not wrong when he says they're some of the best in the world.
:agree: my one trip to the Verdon was in the mid-90s and the "pizza place" was a van in the village square, serving what I have remembered ever since as quite possibly the best pizza I have ever eaten. Rivalled only by Paolo in the vilage where I have stayed for the last two family summer hols in Sardinia (which is, however, nowhere near any of Sardinia's many excellent climbing areas)
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I think Tendon do a few different ropes under the 'Master' banner, mine (blue, possibly 9.6mm) is the least hard wearing rope I've ever owned - you only have to stare at the sheath and it starts to wear thin. I know a couple of other people with the same model who've had exactly the same experience.
Handles great, just don't fall or lower off on it.
cripes. Not tendon then!
So thread opinion is generally:
Mammut Spark 9.5mm £115 (cragX)
Ocun 9.8mm £78.30 (megagrip)
Mammut Revelation 9.2mm £140
Edelrid Python 10mm £105
(all 60m)
anybody had one of these?:
http://www.cragxclimbing.com/climbing-gear/ropesropebags/single-ropes/edelweiss-zen-96mm-deal-price-p-3822.html (http://www.cragxclimbing.com/climbing-gear/ropesropebags/single-ropes/edelweiss-zen-96mm-deal-price-p-3822.html)
seems like a bargain for a lightish 70m (£95)
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I think Tendon do a few different ropes under the 'Master' banner, mine (blue, possibly 9.6mm) is the least hard wearing rope I've ever owned - you only have to stare at the sheath and it starts to wear thin. I know a couple of other people with the same model who've had exactly the same experience.
Handles great, just don't fall or lower off on it.
mmm, think I will steer clear,
Cheers
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thats the Edleweiss I was meaning in my original post. Still, given the price... :whistle:
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I think Tendon do a few different ropes under the 'Master' banner, mine (blue, possibly 9.6mm) is the least hard wearing rope I've ever owned - you only have to stare at the sheath and it starts to wear thin. I know a couple of other people with the same model who've had exactly the same experience.
Handles great, just don't fall or lower off on it.
Was that one with a teflon coating?
A friend's just got a different coloured one to yours that has the coating, only a month old though so no idea about durability. The surface feels odd but it handles well and I was tempted till I saw your post.
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No special coating on mine, it was pretty furred after 4wks with very few falls and little dogging.
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Best rope i have ever had is a Mammut Revelation. I bought it as an 80m, and just kept chopping it when needed. Bought it 4 years ago for my long trip, and still got it now. Albeit, 56m's of it.
:agree:
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The tiny Edelweiss dealer in Sisteron had decent handling (supposedly hardwearing but who knows, chunky looking sheath) 80m 9.9 ropes for 100 euros. Saw other folk out using them, and they weren't moaning, pm if you want his number, doesn't have a website.
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To add to my earlier list:
the Mammut Vertex SE is rapidly furring, flattening and generaly being quite average.
Beal Joker, does anyone else have any opinions of the sheath of this? Using it as a half the other day a minor swing led to visible core (thankfully for once this wasn't bang on the middle marker)!
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To add to my earlier list:
the Mammut Vertex SE is rapidly furring, flattening and generaly being quite average.
Beal Joker, does anyone else have any opinions of the sheath of this? Using it as a half the other day a minor swing led to visible core (thankfully for once this wasn't bang on the middle marker)!
that's a relief, i'd considered that one, but glad i didn't plump for it
The effect of abrasion/ scrapes on thinner ropes is amazing, i cut about 1/3-1/2 way through an infinity skinny half rope (8.1mm i think) witha reasonable plummet, with no particular swing. I have also totally degloved about a foot of sheath off a half rope whilst on a route on Dartmoor, merely by trying to flick it out from a flake. The latter is probably more of a comment on the unparalelled viciousness of Dartmoor granite, rather than rope quality. :offtopic: anyway.... back to sport strings. i ordered a edelrid 9.8 today.... will report back how i find it.
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I've been very happy with my Ocun, (http://www.megagrip.co.uk/products/Ropes/Ropes_guru.htm) Holga recommended them to me - he's had a couple and reckons they last well.
The price on these is pretty tasty... Would you go for one of these over any of the others listed here? Kinda thinking that my mammut wire\telephone cord could do with an upgrade...
Oh also in your experience do they fit in a standard Gri Gri...?
:D
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The price on these is pretty tasty... Would you go for one of these over any of the others listed here?
For the price definitely, although I haven't had experience of all the others I can't find fault with the Ocun - it's a good workhorse rope.
Oh also in your experience do they fit in a standard Gri Gri...?
yep, I use it with a Grigri all the time.
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Sold.... Off to Spain next week so what better time!
:D
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Furthermore, as my other rope was in-service I ended up going bolt-to-bolt on the joker and managed to do this (http://twitgoo.com/2i3hfk) from a freshly chopped rope.
Now clearly skinny ropes aren't ideal for this application but I reckon thats pretty poor regardless considering I don't weigh much and I ordered my better half to take a good few steps in as I dropped off (its not as if she's some form of human anchor either!).
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I think Tendon do a few different ropes under the 'Master' banner, mine (blue, possibly 9.6mm) is the least hard wearing rope I've ever owned - you only have to stare at the sheath and it starts to wear thin. I know a couple of other people with the same model who've had exactly the same experience.
Handles great, just don't fall or lower off on it.
Was that one with a teflon coating?
A friend's just got a different coloured one to yours that has the coating, only a month old though so no idea about durability. The surface feels odd but it handles well and I was tempted till I saw your post.
On the off chance that you're still tempted by Tendon - other channel tales of tendon woe. (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=465609)
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Furthermore, as my other rope was in-service I ended up going bolt-to-bolt on the joker and managed to do this (http://twitgoo.com/2i3hfk) from a freshly chopped rope.
Now clearly skinny ropes aren't ideal for this application but I reckon thats pretty poor regardless considering I don't weigh much and I ordered my better half to take a good few steps in as I dropped off (its not as if she's some form of human anchor either!).
Ferk me, thats really bad.. like you said, youre not exactly giant haystacks! Almost worth trying to get some ££ back for that..
I'd be right pissed off if just working one line for a day did that..
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Furthermore, as my other rope was in-service I ended up going bolt-to-bolt on the joker and managed to do this (http://twitgoo.com/2i3hfk) from a freshly chopped rope.
Now clearly skinny ropes aren't ideal for this application but I reckon thats pretty poor regardless considering I don't weigh much and I ordered my better half to take a good few steps in as I dropped off (its not as if she's some form of human anchor either!).
That pretty much sums up my experience of Beal ropes. Handle well, last 5 minutes.
I've just bought an Edelweiss 9.2mm which I've been pretty impressed with so far.
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On the off chance that you're still tempted by Tendon - other channel tales of tendon woe. (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=465609)
Thanks, I resisted the tendon temptation. Last time I saw my friend's rope it was showing some signs of wear and he's not a heavy user.
Found a Mammut Infinity for a good price whilst on holiday recently and, given the generally good write ups, got that instead, and it's a lovely bright orange so the better half is pleased too.
Like it a lot so far but I'll post back when I've actually used it a bit.
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Looks like DMM has entered the rope market, although with its skinniest single being 9.8 they seem a way off the likes of others making lightweight sport ropes straight away?
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Looks like DMM has entered the rope market, although with its skinniest single being 9.8 they seem a way off the likes of others making lightweight sport ropes straight away?
I'd be interested to know if DMM have started making their own ropes or if someone else is manufacturing them and then DMM sell them under their own branding?
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The megagrip Ocun rope is not available at the moment......does anyone have any experience of either of these?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Climbing-rope-Boa-9-8mm-length-70m-colour-oasis-Edelrid-/380340493737?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Climbing_Mountaineering&hash=item588e0f5da9#ht_2014wt_1079 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Climbing-rope-Boa-9-8mm-length-70m-colour-oasis-Edelrid-/380340493737?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Climbing_Mountaineering&hash=item588e0f5da9#ht_2014wt_1079)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Salewa-Climbing-Rope-ENTRANCE-10mm-Length-70-m-NEW-/380261931051?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Climbing_Mountaineering&hash=item588960982b#ht_1685wt_997 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Salewa-Climbing-Rope-ENTRANCE-10mm-Length-70-m-NEW-/380261931051?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Climbing_Mountaineering&hash=item588960982b#ht_1685wt_997)
I'm looking for 70m (or >), something that will be a bit of and all round rope for sport climbing
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I'd be interested to know if DMM have started making their own ropes or if someone else is manufacturing them and then DMM sell them under their own branding?
We've forged an alliance with a very reputable European rope manufacturer to bring you our new collection, because we could never produce ropes to anything like the quality of our hardware without such investment that would make the project cost prohibitive. It's a concise range yet we feel it has something for everyone and we're very proud of it...
Not sure who, I am guessing not mammut as they used to distribute their ropes, so Beal/Edelweiss/...?
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Anyone? :shrug:
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Pretty sure it's Beal.
BTW Edelweiss ropes (1/2 and singles) currently on sale for 40% off at Snow and Rock.
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Maria Mathis - Bring me Edelweiss (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfE-erZvMtY&feature=related#)
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Pretty sure it's Beal.
BTW Edelweiss ropes (1/2 and singles) currently on sale for 40% off at Snow and Rock.
or Edelrid...perhaps.
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scroll down to DMM (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2882)
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I was actually asking about the two ropes I linked to above
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I can't get to the ebay link but from what you've posted above it seems to be a 9.8mm Edelrid? I have the eagle which is an 9.8mm Edelrid and it's a great rope. handling is superb and it remains slick after a lot of use.
Since getting an Edelrid half rope a few years back I've not bought another brand as I think they're really good. In my experience they're better handling and last longer than the mammut ones I've had.
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scroll down to DMM (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2882)
Ok, I'd still put some money on Edelrid though.
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I was actually asking about the two ropes I linked to above
I have the Edelrid 9.8mm Boa. It seems to handle nicely, and i think the weight is a good compromise between drag / lightness and durability. It seems to pick up dust & dirt very easily, and not sure about the longevity yet, there is a little (minor) furring after 6 weeks ish use, but it has had a lot of use, so that's maybe not too bad. Its ok so far, esp for a shade over a hundred for a 70m.
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http://www.snowandrock.com/edelweiss-ultralight-9.9mmx60m/ropes/ski-snowboard-outdoor-sports/fcp-product/1877 (http://www.snowandrock.com/edelweiss-ultralight-9.9mmx60m/ropes/ski-snowboard-outdoor-sports/fcp-product/1877)
Anyone used these? Reputable?
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edelweiss have a good rep, but i have no specific experience of that rope.
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Edelweiss have been around for a long time. I recently bought an 8.5 from snowandrock and it seems like a good rope, handles ok, tough-looking sheath construction - time will tell.
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Just bought a rope while on holiday(sterling velocity) and just got back to the place where I'm staying, uncoiled it and it has a small fur(maybe a nick) on the sheath about the size of a pencil. Should I take it back which is going to be really awkward because I'm leaving in the morning or is this ok?
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I was using my beal joker and my Mammut Phoenix together as a versatile pair (without the need for three ropes), sadly the beal has been chopped, then chopped and then chopped some more so its now not so much use.
Any experience of 8mm (ish) offerings from
Edelrid
Sterling
and Mammut?
It seems like Bannanfingers are selling a 100m or 120m sterling bipolar for £150/175, that seems like a bargain to me for anybody needing a pair.
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I hear pat king has some killer deals on half ropes right now.
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I've used Beal Icelines and Mammut Phoenix a lot over the last few years. No problems with either but I reckon the Beal has a tighter sheath and handles a bit better as a result. Worth choosing your belay device carefully if you're going down to 8mm ropes too.
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I've got a Reverso 3, although its quite impressive how worn it is given its only 2 years old and I'm no mountain guide.
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I've got a Reverso 3, although its quite impressive how worn it is given its only 2 years old and I'm no mountain guide.
Poor durability - along with, er, price - seems to be part of the price we pay for the lightness of modern gear. My Black Diamond Gridlock belay krab has a distinct rope groove after only a few months' use. So does Frau M's. I have old skool round bar HMS krabs that have years of use and hardly any visible wear. Heavy though.
(The fiddliness of Gridlocks also more or less guarantees dropped belay devices on multipitch routes. They looked like a good idea on paper, but in practice I can't say I'm impressed)
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(The fiddliness of Gridlocks also more or less guarantees dropped belay devices on multipitch routes. They looked like a good idea on paper, but in practice I can't say I'm impressed)
Big Train - Fat Handed Twat (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQyxGTjZi2I#)
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Poor durability - along with, er, price - seems to be part of the price we pay for the lightness of modern gear. My Black Diamond Gridlock belay krab has a distinct rope groove after only a few months' use. So does Frau M's. I have old skool round bar HMS krabs that have years of use and hardly any visible wear. Heavy though.
yeah, the lightness seems to be at the price of narrow diameters on krabs, belay devices etc, and hence much higher wear rates. One would assume that narrower diameter krabs will also trash ropes much more quickly (i certainly seem to go through ropes like anything these days).
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Absolutely, I-beam constructed krabs (like the phantom) seem to be terrible for ropes. I've also just gone through the wear indicator on my current harness, I've had it a little under 2 years. My previous harness was retired simply because it was getting old enough to become scary.
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Yeah lightweight vs durability, innit? I retired a Petzl Crux a couple of years ago when I looked at the belay loop and realised it was 18 years old. I swear I'd still trust my 30 yr old Troll Mark IV if I still had it.
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Without reading this entire thread, can someone recomend me a rope for general purpose use ie. trad, sport, bottom roping etc..
I presume a 50m rope would be more than enough length to cover every eventuality in the UK. Thickness? I've no idea but I don't want a very thin one.
Also I would like to get a rope bag as well so any recomendations there also appreciated.
Cheers
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Also I would like to get a rope bag as well so any recomendations there also appreciated.
I'm very pleased with my Rope Pod (http://www.podsacs.com/products_ropepod.html). It has to go inside
another rucksack for anything but the shortest car-crag trips (no shoulder straps) but is otherwise perfect, largely
due to having a lip that stops the rope slithering out of it.
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Climbed at the wall last week on my mate's 10mm Sterling that he bought in Arco at Easter and has used probably around three-four times a week since. It looked, felt and handled like new. I was impressed.
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Just got an Edilrid Boa 70m x 9.8 from GoOutdoors for £107. The test begins...
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my sterling evolution is awesome, everyone i climb with says how well its handles and it seems to be wearing well too.
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Someone turned up at the Foundry with an 80m 9mm single by Simmond from Decathlon - £140
It looked pretty good, does anyone have any experience with these?
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After an 80m sport rope and came across this;
http://www.outdoor-ranger.co.uk/edelrid-boa-98mm-rope-p-15252.html?currency=GBP&language=gb (http://www.outdoor-ranger.co.uk/edelrid-boa-98mm-rope-p-15252.html?currency=GBP&language=gb)
Looks too good to be true!
Picked up Toby's thoughts on this rope, anyone else got experience of using one?
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I went for a similarly sized Edeldrid 80m rope, the one thing I will say is its damn heavy (not just to carry).
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:-\ not good, cheers Paul.
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20% off all ropes @ Rock and Run (via twitter) (https://twitter.com/#!/RockandRun/status/179861014030983168)
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Anyone spotted any deals on thin half-ropes or have one for sale?
Something like a Mammut Phoenix 50m (http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3007).
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No, but I bought an Edelrid Merlin 8.0mm and its a pain in the arse. Compared to the Phoenix which is the other half rope I own, it coils around anything. Its so problematic that I've taken to ensure we're always pulling it first if there's any chance it could catch at all.
A while ago Bananafingers were selling a 100m thin rope which I contemplated buying and chopping into two but I now can't find it, or remember if it was a half or twin (the colour changed at the midpoint).
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Answering my own question, Mammut Phoenix are now £175 for two at V12 (http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3008&oscsid=s7qeq73nl6cofp3isfq9fvgvb5).
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Just got an Edilrid Boa 70m x 9.8 from GoOutdoors for £107. The test begins...
How did the test go on this? I see its £108 for 70 and £124 for an 80m which seems pretty fair.
Anyone else got any experience? I know Paul said he thought it was heavy
Any advice how it will hold up to a fat bastard falling on it?
Is it worth forking out a bit more and getting a different rope?
I heard sterling ropes are good just look a lot more expensive
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I'll reiterate that point; I used it in its full capacity on Thurs last week and the damn thing felt like an anchor. Don't buy fat 80m ropes. :badidea: The good thing about it is, given how excessively long it is for UK sport, it's possible for us both to use it at small crags without the need for a second rope!
I'm becoming more and more convinced (as once again I/we need another rope), that 9.4-9.7 is about the optimum balance between being practical and not wearing out in an instant.
With regards to Sterling, they've got a great reputation (as long as they're sheath doesn't touch Grit), but I can't really work out how you justify paying that much more.
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Just got an Edilrid Boa 70m x 9.8 from GoOutdoors for £107. The test begins...
How did the test go on this? I see its £108 for 70 and £124 for an 80m which seems pretty fair.
Anyone else got any experience? I know Paul said he thought it was heavy
Any advice how it will hold up to a fat bastard falling on it?
Is it worth forking out a bit more and getting a different rope?
I heard sterling ropes are good just look a lot more expensive
Seemed OK in El Chorro. Haven't actually used it enough to fully evaluate the life expectancy. Doesn't seem too heavy to me, but then, I've never sport climbed on anything lighter.
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I've used one too on several holidays in El Chorro and Turkey - lots of 30m pitches. I didn't notice it being particularly heavy, though similarly to Fultonius, I do most of my climbing on an ancient 10.5mm rope so might not be best placed to compare. It seems pretty hard-wearing though.
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I'm becoming more and more convinced (as once again I/we need another rope), that 9.4-9.7 is about the optimum balance between being practical and not wearing out in an instant.
:agree:
for its diameter & weight (and weight in g/m is a better guide really since manufacturers fudge the stated diameters a bit) the boa has been OK for me, not super hard wearing or light (it feels bloody heavy on the groove) but ok in both respects and cheap, so overall not bad.
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Thanks guys
I have narrowed it down to three ropes.
Beal Booster III 9.7mm x70 £180 63g/m
http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=82&products_id=2950&oscsid=4j4oc9c6jh2v5ejp4g4j06j4q1 (http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=82&products_id=2950&oscsid=4j4oc9c6jh2v5ejp4g4j06j4q1)
Sterling Velocity 9.8mm x70 £184 62g/m
http://www.theleedswallshop.co.uk/sterling-velocity-98mm-x70m-745-p.asp (http://www.theleedswallshop.co.uk/sterling-velocity-98mm-x70m-745-p.asp)
Edelrid boa 9.8 x 80m £124 + shipping 61g/m
http://www.outdoor-ranger.co.uk/edelrid-boa-98mm-rope-80m-p-20776.html?currency=GBP&language=gb (http://www.outdoor-ranger.co.uk/edelrid-boa-98mm-rope-80m-p-20776.html?currency=GBP&language=gb)
The £50 price difference for a longer rope is pushing me towards that but I am not sure.
Also it is the lightest g/m
I am currently using a mammut galaxy 10mmx60 at 66g/m so I don't think it will bother me too much
Anyone used the beal rope? any good?
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Have you looked at the Leeds Wall website. The Boa is £110 for 60m there - and if you combined shopping with climbing you would save on P&P (and if you knew a Regular User member - Rob? - you could get another 10 or 15% off). They also sell it off the reel per metre - works out at £105 for 60m.
I treated myself recently to a Mammut Infinity 9.5mm teflon-coated Superdry. I bought it with my recent adoption of "hard" sport climbing in mind but it looks so thin compared to my furry 10 year old 10.5mm I haven't dared use it yet! Not entirely convinced it'll work with my grigri either. I suspect it'll only get used when I get more scared of the soft spots in my old rope!
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http://www.urbanrock.com/single-rope-70m-to-80m (http://www.urbanrock.com/single-rope-70m-to-80m)
cheap drycover beal and a slightly lighter superdry 9.5mm mammut option
fwiw the beal takes a lot more falls than the others. Personally i climb on decade old ropes, one off ebay, one donated off here, so I'm a long way from worrying about such things.
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Hi Grubes,
I have in a cupboard, in a rope bag a 4.5 year old Beal Edlinger II 10.2mm 60m rope that I've not used for 3 years or so. Its probably been used less than 10 times - and was bought before my last bolt clipping holiday in Spain - where it was used for 3 or 4 days (its probably been out a couple of times since for the wall etc..). Only one notable fall (c.4m - 2nd/3rd bolt clipping where an inattentive belayer stopped me 1/2 m above the ground... No nicks, cuts or defects to my knowldege.. Not dry treated etc.. its a sports rope.
I know most folk are adverse to 2nd hand ropes etc.. but if you're interested let me know - I can vouch for its use and safe (non UV) storage.. I even have the ticket/card that came with it...
T
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Thanks all
Being a fat bastard and a complete punter I have gone for the 70m beal so the extra falls will come in useful (I fall off a lot)
Plus it is a little thinner than the others.
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Thanks all
Being a fat bastard and a complete punter I have gone for the 70m beal so the extra falls will come in useful (I fall off a lot)
Plus it is a little thinner than the others.
in my experience, the number of falls is one of the least useful criteria for rope selection, it is a very blunt instrument when it comes to practical use.
If you can shell out the extra that beal usually costs, i'd go for one of those over mammut any time personally, having had several mammuts which were pretty shoddy to be honest. Beal tend to have a much lower impact force, which is one of the things i tend to look at much more than number of falls.
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I treated myself recently to a Mammut Infinity 9.5mm teflon-coated Superdry. I bought it with my recent adoption of "hard" sport climbing in mind but it looks so thin compared to my furry 10 year old 10.5mm I haven't dared use it yet! Not entirely convinced it'll work with my grigri either. I suspect it'll only get used when I get more scared of the soft spots in my old rope!
it will work fine. 9mm works fine in a grigri, if you are careful and not a f***wit with it.
And how do all you lot make a rope last 10 years? I'm lucky to get one year out of most of my sport ropes....
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I'm a recent convert to red-pointing stuff that's hard (for me). Over a decade of top-roping and generally successful onsighting routes abroad - absolutely no wear at all. A few months of projecting stuff and falling off at Kilnsey and Malham - massive soft stretches at both ends! Such is the price of failure!
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http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/tendon-ambition-8-5mm-60m-rope-twinpack-p216589/?utm_source=SilverpopMailing&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=03_09_12-Extra-10-Percent-Off-All-Departments%20%281%29&utm_content= (http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/tendon-ambition-8-5mm-60m-rope-twinpack-p216589/?utm_source=SilverpopMailing&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=03_09_12-Extra-10-Percent-Off-All-Departments%20%281%29&utm_content=)
Slightly off the current topic, but the extra discount code on this makes it £135 for a set of 60's which is retardedly cheap. Just thought someone might be on the prowl for a pair.
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Just after a bit of advice....
I recently bought a 9.5mm Mammut Infinity. Its skinny Teflon-coated loveliness being more of a birthday treat to myself than a reflection of actual need; it's still unused as I haven't had the heart to subject it to grim wet-weather dogging sessions! However, last weekend my partner was sufficiently alarmed by my old rope (an ancient 10.5mm) that they insisted on hacking 3m from both ends and even then had misgivings about its condition.
So, I have taken the hint and decided to retire my old rope. However, this is my first season of "proper" sport climbing, and I have been shocked at how quickly redpointing appeared to wear-out my old rope. Less than a year of redpointing seemed to cause far more damage than ten years of onsighting with few falls. Although, I am unsure whether that was an illusion, and my old rope was more battered than I realised at the start of the year. In the experience of those more au-fait with the rigors of redpointing, how well do 9.5mm ropes stand up to this kind of treatment; would be a waste to use a new 9.5mm as a workhorse rope? Does diameter reliably make much difference to durability?
Would it be more sensible to buy another, chunky rope for days I expect to spend dogging/falling (and occasionally succeeding) on routes and save the 9.5mm for those rare "the stars are in alignment" days when I anticipate ticking-off a long-term project. Or is that impractical and/or 9.5mm ropes last well enough that it would be easier and cheaper to use the 9.5mm rope for everything and enjoy it whilst it lasts (and if it does knacker fast, just chalk it up to experience and go chunkier next time). If having a separate "working" rope is the done thing, any suggestions? I guess the problem is balancing sufficient durability to justify its existence with enough ease of use that it won't unduly hinder the odd end-of-day redpoint attempt. Mammut Galaxys have a reputation for durability and but this thread had been pretty damming about them.
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I have this rope as my main/only sport climbing rope for the last couple of years and have been very happy with it, at a guess I have used it for ~40 days of sport climbing and it is showing very minimal wear if any, though it is due a wash and a middle point remarking. My sport climbing is a mixture of onsighting and redpointing, though I have not used it for any protracted sieges.
From this I would say just use it all the time, I like the way it handles and it works really well with the mark 1 gri-gri, fat enough to always lock but skinny enough to feed easily. Using it all the time also saves you from carrying two ropes to the crag. From what I have seen most redpointing/sport climbing damage occurs within the first ~5m, roughly where you keep dropping/hanging on the rope whilst working the moves. If it's a 70m, which mine is, you can get two iterations of 5m off each end and still have a 50m, more than ample for most uk climbing, a couple more iterations and you have a 30m indoor/grit outcrop rope and buy yourself a new 70 or even 80m sport climbing rope at either the 50 or 30m stage.
From what I have read the larger diameter ropes can afford to have more sheath which helps in terms of durability.
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Cheers fella, I suspect you're right and that I should just use the 9.5mm for everything and enjoy the sensation of joining the 21st century! I'm probably letting myself get unnecessarily worried by how insubstantial it looks compared to my ancient 10.5mm (which makes even new 10.5mm ropes look a bit weedy). If I did buy a "work" rope, my 9.5mm would possibly sit entirely unused in a cupboard for years whilst I endured unnecessarily dropped redpoints and grueling days' climbing hauling a stiff, heavy cable after me (I have enough trouble making clips as it is). It's not as though I have had any protracted sieges myself (so far) - at most a session or two of top-roping before trying to lead. Maybe save getting a thicker rope for when I run out of short/medium term goals. That is, unless there are lots of contradictory tales of 9.5mm durability woe?
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Just after a bit of advice....
Less than a year of redpointing seemed to cause far more damage than ten years of onsighting with few falls. how well do 9.5mm ropes stand up to this kind of treatment; would be a waste to use a new 9.5mm as a workhorse rope? Does diameter reliably make much difference to durability? Mammut Galaxys have a reputation for durability and but this thread had been pretty damming about them.
yes, it does. 9.5mm is fine, unless you are a proper biffa (which you are not). In fact some may regard it as a bit fat by modern standards. Yes, diameter does make a difference - but so does the weave and various other factors. In my experience, Galaxys are a bit cack. This is based on not only having had one or two, but the rate of returns on them when working in climbing shops. (maybe they are better these days, however) It is best to just face the fact that, if you work routes a lot, and fall off, ropes wear out. They are no that expensive, in the grand scheme of things - i wear out far more pairs of 5.10s than ropes, and they are more expensive.
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I recently bought a 9.5mm Mammut Infinity. Its skinny Teflon-coated loveliness being more of a birthday treat to myself than a reflection of actual need; it's still unused as I haven't had the heart to subject it to grim wet-weather dogging sessions!
If the Infinity is that orange length of cack then if my experience is anything to go by then it will wear out really quick unless they've improved them in the last couple of years. This was especially disappointing given how well the Revelation lasts which is not intended as a workhorse rope. Mammut and the shop manager refused to accept the way my Infinity wore after 3 days on a sport rip was anything other than my fault about 4 years ago. I wanted my money back but only could get a goodwill replacement which also wore out quick. Others had similar experiences. I hope they have improved the durability since.
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Yes, diameter does make a difference - but so does the weave and various other factors. In my experience
This is so accurate; my best wearing rope thus far has been a 9.4 mm (Beal Stinger II or III), it far outlasted by last Mammut Vertex which wasn't great at all and was a lot fatter. The next one I'm going to go for is the 9.4 mm Sterling rope (time to find out if they're as good as their reputation suggests).
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If the Infinity is that orange length of cack then if my experience is anything to go by then it will wear out really quick unless they've improved them in the last couple of years
My rope is bright blue, evo's are orange though (and there used to be a rope brand called Infinity).
Paul, the fella I was climbing with at Malham on Saturday was raving about Sterling ropes, said his had lasted for 6 years of decent use and was recommending them as good value. I had considered buying one myself but , like many people I suspect, was dissuaded by the premium (an extra £50 might be bugger all compared to the additional utility, or would you be paying for hype and import costs). Maybe next time...
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Im using a sterling at the moment. Best rope I've had I think.
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Im using a sterling at the moment.
Whilst posting on ukb? :o I hope for your partner's sake you have a grigri.
I am very impressed with the handling & longevity of the sterling rope my mate bought last year, and will definitely consider one for my next rope.
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To counter that, I have a Sterling Nano 9.1, and thats got a rip in the by just thinking about climbing. :no: Next time I'll go back to Beal.
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It probably took one look at your fat ass and decided to commit hari-kari...
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Nano is 9.2 I think?
I have either the 9.2 or the 9.4, not quite sure which though it seemed the same as the 9.2 someone else had. I was given it 15 months ago by an American guy who couldn't fit it in his baggage home - it had already been cut a few times, so had had a decent bit of use. Since then I think I've only cut each end twice despite using it quite a lot (and these guns weigh a lot). It handles better than any of my previous ropes (Wild Country 10.5, Mammut Infinity 9.5, Tendon Master 9.7, Tendon Ambition 9.8 ).
My infinity has lasted ok but then I only use it for onsights and redpointing routes longer than 40m. It does kink a lot and twist up though.
The Tendons were good, but I think overall I've been more impressed with the Stirling - it's likely to be top of my list if I've not managed to wangle free ropes out of someone by the time I need a new one.
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It probably took one look at your fat ass and decided to commit hari-kari...
Could be worse, I move so slowly that age-related degradation whilst actually climbing is a factor. Still, to judge from some belayer's comments, I can reach the top of most routes whilst barely off the ground, so long falls aren't really a possibility!
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Anybody used one of these?
http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/edelrid-perfect-10mm-70m-rope-p194194 (http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/edelrid-perfect-10mm-70m-rope-p194194)
They look ok, although the listed impact force is higher than the equivalent weight Beal (the Edlinger 10.2, they are both 64g/m), implying that you get a less comfy fall. Although i never know how much these figures actually relate to the real world.
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To counter that, I have a Sterling Nano 9.1, and thats got a rip in the by just thinking about climbing. :no: Next time I'll go back to Beal.
I've just had a 3 weeks in Buoux for which Nat and I we took a brand new Sterling ION 2 (9.4mm) and my (ginger) Edelrid Python (~10mm). The Python needed chopping at both ends after about a week and a half of use. The Sterling looks as if its getting close to needing chopping at one end by the end of 3.
The amusing part is that due to its weight the Python was often ditched in preference to the ION which took a lot more hammer over the holiday.
I think its one of the best handling ropes I've ever had (although it should be noted that due to this it stays rather 'slick' in a gri gri 1 for longer), I think it outperformed my Beal Stinger III which I thought was great. The only thing that really bothered me was a lack of middle marker.
Its probably worth stating that as I currently work in a gear shop I didn't pay full price for the ION,
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Sterling ION 2 (9.4mm)
I think its one of the best handling ropes I've ever had (although it should be noted that due to this it stays rather 'slick' in a gri gri 1 for longer), I think it outperformed my Beal Stinger III which I thought was great. The only thing that really bothered me was a lack of middle marker.
Its probably worth stating that as I currently work in a gear shop I didn't pay full price for the ION,
Yeah, I am increasingly convinced that mostly, cheaper ropes last less long and work less well, and since I climb quite a bit, and actually use them, it's worth chucking an extra few bob at a rope. They're not much more expensive than a pair of rock shoes anyway. I like the sound of Sterlings. I've used Bluewater ropes in the USA, which i was also impressed with, and generally have liked Beals more than most, if only because the low impact force translates well into comfy falls.
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sterling ropes are the way to go my friend!
ive got the nano (9.2) goes hand in hand with my gri gri 2!
light
strong
fairly hardwearing
i got 60M for £120
and in salmon pink/china red it looks spectacular!!! :2thumbsup:
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Quick heads up - Crag X has a Sterling 80m 9.8mm for just £150 in store at the mo
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V12 are doing Mammut Ledge 70m x 9.6mm for £75 (http://www.v12outdoor.com/search.php?xSearch=ledge&x=0&y=0).
Never heard of Ledge before, a special of some kind? Short for Legend or what you hit when it stretches excessively?
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or what you hit when it stretches excessively?
:lol: It's not the most inspiring name. Lost in translation I guess?
Unless it's specially designed for ledge-shuffling. In which case I'm ordering a pair.
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Well, I just ordered one - cut in half, that'll be a new indoor rope and a grit rope for £37.50 each. Bargain!
Thanks Duncan.
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Can anyone recommend a good trad rope that can be bought off the reel? I had an idea that it might be quite cheap to buy two lengths of 100m (different colours) and chop them at 60m, giving a pair of mountain halves and a pair of grit halves.
Or maybe its just better to stick with convention and buy an 80m 8.5mm and chop it at halfway for grit, and a seperate set of thinner 60m halves. I remember climbing with a friend's 60m halves that were either 7.5 or 8mm. The weight difference on that length of rope was incredible!
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I've got a set of Mammut 7.5s and whilst they're light they're a real pain.
Firstly, they tangle, around anything (and everything) but more importantly, when you actually do come off they stretch absurd amounts be warned.... Also, and this may just be a mental thing, when you've only clipped one and it's running over an edge they look terrifying!
Sterling do a 120m version of their half ropes (8mm) which I sourced for my dad and then cut down. They're not so different in colour, purple and purple with black but they also do the same thing in orange so there's scope to end up with a set.
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I've been through a couple of sets of Beal 8mm ice lines for big trad and winter. They are great, but you need to handle them well to avoid tangles. I've found them better that the Mammuts but tangling is usually down to how you unpacked them. I think it's worth buying a specific belay device for skinnies ( I use a reversino) but the manufacturers seem to be moving towards devices that supposedly suit all.
For grit I use some old Beal 8.6mm Cobras which have been successively cut down to about 30. You don't want skinnies for grit, they'll wear too quick, too much stretch near the ground.
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I've been through a couple of sets of Beal 8mm ice lines for big trad and winter. They are great, but you need to handle them well to avoid tangles. I've found them better that the Mammuts but tangling is usually down to how you unpacked them.
Sorry but I'm unconvinced by this, the Mammuts come coiled with a velcro strap and are incredibly easy to run out the first time (and great care was taken after once letting Nat go to town on a new rope). Treating it exactly the same as a skinny Edelrid in the Verdon it was always the Mammut that was a PITA, it just coiled, non-stop.
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My Mammut single rope does that a lot too
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To counter that, I have a Sterling Nano 9.1, and thats got a rip in the by just thinking about climbing. :no: Next time I'll go back to Beal.
I've just had a 3 weeks in Buoux for which Nat and I we took a brand new Sterling ION 2 (9.4mm) and my (ginger) Edelrid Python (~10mm). The Python needed chopping at both ends after about a week and a half of use. The Sterling looks as if its getting close to needing chopping at one end by the end of 3.
The amusing part is that due to its weight the Python was often ditched in preference to the ION which took a lot more hammer over the holiday.
I think its one of the best handling ropes I've ever had (although it should be noted that due to this it stays rather 'slick' in a gri gri 1 for longer), I think it outperformed my Beal Stinger III which I thought was great. The only thing that really bothered me was a lack of middle marker.
Its probably worth stating that as I currently work in a gear shop I didn't pay full price for the ION,
I've been using the ION for a few months and it's holding up very well. I thought I migh have to keep using the old 9.8 for working routes (based on my brother's last thin rope, the Beal joker, disintegrating very quickly) but my fears were misplaced. It's a bit hard for Gwyn to haul up the rope for boinking but other than that it's been magic :)
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Anyone seen any good deals on 80m ropes?
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Anyone seen any good deals on 80m ropes?
http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/climbing-ropes/mammut-finesse-9-3mm-x-80m (http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/climbing-ropes/mammut-finesse-9-3mm-x-80m)
http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/climbing-ropes/mammut-infinity-9-5mm-x-80m (http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/climbing-ropes/mammut-infinity-9-5mm-x-80m)
Bought myself a Finesse to use for long Kalymnos stuff next easter on the basis of it being a coated skinny Mammut for less than basically any other 80m. Obviously haven't used it in anger yet though! Seems nice, probably at the thick end of 9.3mm but personally I don't mind that. Infinity gets a lot of praise for durability as it's been around for longer but I just went for the cheapest.
Oh, also, if you're looking for more info on the Finesse, it appears to be a renamed / coloured Nordwand which there are a few reviews of I think.
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I have ended up with the infinity you posted about, so cheers for the recommendation!
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anyone has advice on a very thick sheated, abrasion-resistant half rope?
to be used on rock only, sometimes in guiding or guiding-like situations (weak, unaware following climber that takes swings, gets hauled or helped with a very tight rope, etc...), sometimes in parties of 3, occasionally in rope-killing places like wadi rum.
i'm aware of the beal pro mountain and edelrid kestrel being advertised as what i need but i wonder aboud other brands/models.
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the old DMM ropes were meant to have very durable sheaths. I'm not sure if you can still get them anywhere?
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anyone has advice on a very thick sheated, abrasion-resistant half rope?
to be used on rock only, sometimes in guiding or guiding-like situations (weak, unaware following climber that takes swings, gets hauled or helped with a very tight rope, etc...), sometimes in parties of 3, occasionally in rope-killing places like wadi rum.
i'm aware of the beal pro mountain and edelrid kestrel being advertised as what i need but i wonder aboud other brands/models.
Mammut Genesis would be a good option, it's a whopping 49% sheath and a seriously tough rope (on offer at Outside at the mo) Spec wise it comes up ever so slightly better than the Pro Mountain.
We've also had a lot of use out of the Sterling Duetto. They're a bit shy on their figures (can't find a sheath percentage on them), but they've definitely taken a hammering and just seem to keep on going. Duettos also "feel" nicer to use than the Genesis (IMO)
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Anyone got any knowledge on a decent deal on an 80m?
My current rope is an Edelwiess 9.5mm Energy that i've had to chop numerous times. The worst wearing rope i've ever had.
Looking for something with longevity for Euro trips onsighting and redpointing, rather than half rope kind of lightness that within a few sessions working something its fluffed.
Was thinking perhaps a Sterling Velocity, Mammut Infinity, revelation?
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Buy a Sterling ION 2. We used it as a sport rope in the UK, then for our States trip, and finally passed it onto somebody in the valley (it was still in very good condition) simply because we didn't have enough baggage allowance to get it back home.
(Although as it was mine, and thus clearly cursed he took a fairly nasty solo-aid fall busting up his ankle/lower leg and requiring self-rescue).
Coincidentally, I noticed these were on offer in CragX (not useful to Habrich, sorry).
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My 9.8mm Sterling is by far the best rope I've had (the worst being a 9.5mm Mammut which needed chopping twice within a month of weekend use - not like I fell on it that much either). I fancy a new 80m rope for holiday but I've resisted every tempting (but non-Sterling) bargain I've seen recently - if need be, I would prefer to just pay more for the rope I really want.
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I won a sterling rope a few years ago from Rock On and it has worn really well. I still miss my Beal Joker though
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Some very good deals on Sterling ropes on Rock and Run today e.g. 50m 9.8 Velocity £75.
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Thanks for the tip T_B, new string on its way!
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Anyone used an Edelweiss Curve 9.8?
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Not used that but have an Edelweiss 9.2. Handles nicely, runs well. Initially was prone to twisting up but that sorted out with a bit of use, and even when bad was better than my mammut infinity. Wear seems pretty standard for the diameter. [full disclosure: got the rope free]
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Not used that but have an Edelweiss 9.2. Handles nicely, runs well. Initially was prone to twisting up but that sorted out with a bit of use, and even when bad was better than my mammut infinity. Wear seems pretty standard for the diameter. [full disclosure: LOOK AT ME]
:wave:
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Posted a little while ago asking about trad half ropes and feel like I might be nearly, almost, just about ready to actually part with some money. My opinions have developed a little since the last post.
I can't think of any situation I have even been in where having 60m half ropes was actually necessary. Certainly in the UK (and even on the continent I think), abseils or pitches of more than 50m are incredibly rare. Furthermore, the weight saving of dropping from 60 to 50m is huge, and 50m ropes are so much easier to manage on stances and keep out of tangles. Unless someone comes up with an anecdote or reason to get 60s then 50s is the way forward.
I also have much better things to spend money on than two pairs of ropes for different situations, so I really need a pair of ropes that does the lot. Some manufacturer's are turning out 8.3mm half ropes at the moment but there does seem to be some loss in performance and not a great deal of difference in weight. I think I'd have to drop to 8mm to see any significant weight loss. Thinking particularly about ropes running over edges, getting thinner ropes seems to be asking for trouble and 8mm ropes are going to last about two seconds on grit.
So it seems that 8.5mm, 50m ropes are the way to go. I have only ever had Mammut ropes. Having scanned through this thread they seem to get reasonably consistent reviews as being decent. I wonder if I could go one better and get something that handles really nicely/lasts longer. Is there any other brand I should be looking at? Edelrid? Sterling? I notice Alpkit are stocking ropes made by someone called Roca now? Any good?
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You should look at the Sterling Duetto (IMO).
If you're not fussy about colour you can buy the 120m that switches from colour to colour/striped at half way and cut it. This is a very affordable solution.
I'd go 60m (personally), there have been loads of times that this has been of benefit (linking pitches / Veron abs / Val di Mello abs etc. etc.). You have to be careful which Mammut's you go for and my Edelrid (Falcon?) is a PITA for coiling and looping around anything going.
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Hmmm. Not quite convinced on the length issue. Thanks for your view though. I think from reading your posts you get considerably more time to go away tradding (and with bigger objectives) on the continent than me! I'm likely to do it relatively infrequently now in all honesty.
The Sterling Duetto seems to be much more geared towards fast and light alpinism. The tech spec available on the website is a bit sparse on detail but it seems to significantly underperform against the Genesis on durability - considerably fewer UIAA falls. It would be nice to save another 300g over two ropes but I'm not sure if I can afford to reduce durability so significantly.
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I can't think of any situation I have even been in where having 60m half ropes was actually necessary. Certainly in the UK (and even on the continent I think), abseils or pitches of more than 50m are incredibly rare. Furthermore, the weight saving of dropping from 60 to 50m is huge, and 50m ropes are so much easier to manage on stances and keep out of tangles. Unless someone comes up with an anecdote or reason to get 60s then 50s is the way forward.
Not an attempt to persuade you otherwise, but having done it recently, and you asking for anecdotes....the last abseil to get off of The Old Man of Hoy needs 60m ropes, if you've only got 50m you'll be stuck hanging about 4-5m from the rock face with the knots in the end of your rope about 7-8m from the ground. The other option is to take a third rope, attach it to the anchor of the first belay and trail it up the second pitch and use it to descend, although the last person down might have an "interesting" time when they remove it from the second belay.
Further afield in the Dolomites I have on occasions strung two pitches and two abseils together on 60m. The abseils wouldn't have been possible on 50m ropes but wasn't essential for a safe decent, although the time saving of linking pitches whilst climbing and on descent is worthwhile.
I also have much better things to spend money on than two pairs of ropes for different situations, so I really need a pair of ropes that does the lot.
Are you the sole gear provider? I ask because I only have one 60m half-rope, invariably I'm climbing with a friend who has another one with which it can be paired, this would significantly reduce your cost.
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60 metres all the way, that bit extra makes life so much easier and/or safer on occasion, linking pitches, abbing, reaching belays. It can save a lot of time and faff, the extra cost will soon be forgotten and you can probably find a deal if you look around anyway.
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I'm interested to see so many people backing 60m as being essential. Point taken about the Old Man of Hoy. It is a route on the list, but I suppose I can mothball my current 60s and bring them out (or more likely borrow a partners 60s!) if needed. I'm sure they've got an extra route or two left in them as they're not that shagged out!
60 metres all the way, that bit extra makes life so much easier and/or safer on occasion, linking pitches, abbing, reaching belays. It can save a lot of time and faff, the extra cost will soon be forgotten and you can probably find a deal if you look around anyway.
It's not really the extra cost I'm concerned about. The main advantages of 50s as I see it are the considerable weight saving you get without sacrificing robustness, the reduced tangling, increased ease of rope management, reduced time coiling ropes/taking in slack etc.
I appreciate that running the odd pitch together can be advantageous, however I can't think that there are really all that many situations in the UK where you would run pitches together and the length of your ropes would become the limiting factor before rope drag did! I ran a couple of pitches together yesterday - 24m and 20m on 50s and all was well but the drag was chronic at the top (yes I did extend the outlying runners properly!). It might be useful once in every 50 mountain routes you do? Meanwhile you're making minor savings every time you bring up extra slack and avoid a slight tangle, and perhaps you'll walk in a bit faster because you're carrying less gear on the walk in?
Abseils. With the obvious exception of the Old Man, are there really that many UK abs where you must have 60s? Perhaps there's the odd sea cliff where a long rope is needed, but in those circumstances I'd probably have brought my sport rope along to act as a dedicated ab rope to keep the climbing ropes out of the drink. I hear it's standard practice to abseil off The Bullroar after doing the traverse pitches. Anybody know whether you get down on 50s?
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Be mad to get 50's in this day and age. For the extra weight its not worth worrying about. Plus if you damage the ends you can still cut 10m off and still have a 50m. Win win.
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Will, I’ll go against the tide and agree with you and say for UK trad, 50s would be my choice.
I’ve 2 60m dry treated halves that have been used for alpine and Scottish winter as well as rock. As I do less of the former and more just UK trad I see little need for the extra 10m, its extra weight, extra faff and a waste of money. UK trad pitches are rarely that long, I never really abseil (separate rope for sea cliffs) so most of the advantages are theoretical. However, the ends of my ropes are tatty (my footwork in crampons is not the best) so I’m considering giving them a trim so I’ll have a nice pair of 50s for UK trading, so I guess that’s an advantage. I’d probably be happy with a pair of 40s for UK trad.
In an ideal world I’ve have 2 50m 8.5s for UK trad and 2 60m 8.1s for Alpine, and Scottish winter. In this ideal world, I’d get a lot more use out of the 8.1s than in reality, which would mean them sat in the loft, getting an airing every other year……
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I'd always go with 60 m now. Ever since I've started running pitches together it's just phenomenal. Especially at places like tremadog. That crag is 60 m high and is just fantastic in a oner.
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My first season with 60s I kept having to belay mid-pitch as I tried to run everything together.
In an ideal world I’ve have 2 50m 8.5s for UK trad and 2 60m 8.1s for Alpine, and Scottish winter.
This is basically what I've had for the last 8 years. Beal Cobra (which I've been using since '95) and Beal Icelines. What I've found is I just end up using the Icelines for everything bar grit, for which I now have a pair of cut down Cobras about 37m long. Also use the Mammut equivalent (supposedly 7.8 vs Iceline 8.1 - no difference in use) which are fine but a bit stiffer, meaning they kink/ tangle more)
If you've not used 8mms before I'd suggest buying a new belay device, may older ones are not suitable. I use Reversinos but you'll have to shop for something more modern. I also found all the modern lightweight biners work great with 8mms, less so with anything bigger. Slim the whole rack down with 6-8mm dyneema slings and tiny krabs and it makes a big difference.
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:agree:
Trad rack (and clothing) are potentially large weight savers.
My preference is 50s. I bought 50s specifically for winter mixed because every bit of weight saved is appreciated approaching/descending, and faffing on belays. 99.5% of the time mixed pitches don't require 60s.
Continental/alpine ice - 60s or 70s 8mm
UK trad - 50s, Sea-cliffs - 50s, plus a seperate low-stretch ab rope in some places
Sport - 60 or 70 (70 nice to have so you can keep on chopping ends for a few years). If you're feeling flush then a fat working rope and a super-skinny for onsighting and long enduro routes.
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I'd never buy a sport rope less than 80, ideally longer so you can cut and still have an 80... But then I like long routes and Europe.
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If you're feeling flush then a fat working rope and a super-skinny for onsighting and long enduro routes.
I think I said earlier in the thread, I had an 80m Edelrid Python fat thing for working and a much lighter Sterling ION 2 for onsighting. In reality we ended up with two ropes at the crag one being used by each person and the ION 2 required cutting far far less than than the Python.
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I'm in the market for a single rope which will be used for UK sport over the summer then my US trip in September.
It's going to see some hammer but I'll be happy to leave it in the states at the end of my trip so I'm looking for something that will perform very well for less than a year rather than something that will last for ages. I don't want a skinny one (I whip and dog a lot, have an old-style GriGri and I'll be climbing with some less than expert belayers as well as a very tired one during it's life) and it doesn't need to be long as neither Peak, Arkansan or the Yorkshire routes I'm capable of are very high.
I'm therefore thinking 9.8ish in 60m so I can give it a reviving chop down to 50 before I travel.
Contenders are-
Sterling Velocity 9.8 - I've used other people's before and they were good. No idea if the newer version ("Evolution Velocity") is better or worse though.
Beal Diablo 9.8- I like the way Beals handle and this seems to have an appealing bonded sheath construction.
Beal Booster III 9.7- again I like Beals and this is slightly lighter and is available with a nice hardwearing coating.
Petzl Contact 9.8- never used one but I trust the brand- this also has appealing-sounding coating and construction business.
The Sterling is the favourite judging from this thread but does anyone have experience of the latter three (or other suggestions)? The Mammuts that get a good write-up on here don't seem to be made any more.
Cheers! :thumbsup:
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Personally I'd snap up one of the bargain ION 2s from CragX, it's 9.4mm so pretty 'slick' at first in a GriGri but as I've said elsewhere in this thread (actually I'm becoming a bit of a stuck record), Nat and I used it extensively then took it for 6 months around the USA and Canada and the only reason it didn't come back was weight / cost.
It's currently still in use with a friend (although he inherited my luck on his first outing, breaking his ankle in a solo-fall).
Failing the above go for the Velocity or the Booster III (I liked the one I owned). I'm wary of other Beals as I thought my Joker was shockingly poor.
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I would second the word of caution on the Beal, really poor durability.
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Of those listed, I can personally vouch for the Sterling 9.8mm - good feel and very durable. My next rope will definitely be the Sterling 9.4mm - I want a thinner rope and my experience with mine and partners' Sterlings make them the only ones I would really trust to last. I have had no problems using a Grigri Mk1 with partner's 9.4mm ropes (to be honest, I prefer that combination - I find the grigri-2 a bit "grabby"). A good budget option you didn't mention is the Edelrid Python 9.8mm - I have an 80m one that I have used for overseas trips (at least 2 months of solid climbing) and it shows no real signs of wear - not needed chopping at all. Admittedly mainly on-sights / 2-3-go RPs, rather than proper sieges, but I reckon that on balance that it's a damn hard-wearing rope (not light though but are often cheap and can be bought on-the-reel).
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Personally I'd snap up one of the bargain ION 2s from CragX
I have just done this. ;D
Thin, But not scary thin
Just how I like 'em. ;)
A good budget option you didn't mention is the Edelrid Python 9.8mm - I have an 80m one that I have used for overseas trips (at least 2 months of solid climbing) and it shows no real signs of wear - not needed chopping at all.
This was my last rope and my experience was the same as yours- it went on lots of trips before it needed chopping, but I also found it kink-prone and an absolute dirt magnet.
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Anyone know of any good deals atm? My rope is so flat that I can barely untie my fig 8 once it's weighted!
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Has anyone spied any good deals on 80m ropes?
I'm almost tempted to follow my own advice and get another ION II but ideally (holiday destinations in mind) it'd be long enough for a few chops whilst still remaining above 70m.
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My mate was looking recently - Rock and Run have a few, mostly Mammut (and sub £100) but also a fatter Sterling for about £180.
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That'll be the velocity (and what I'm leaning to after climbing on one yesterday). (well handling 9.8mm £180)
There's a Mammut Revelation: 9.2 80m, £152:
http://www.rockrun.com/mammut-revelation-9-2mm-80m
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I used my Sterling Ion for the first time last night and was very impressed. ;D Never going back to chunky ropes now!
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That'll be the velocity (and what I'm leaning to after climbing on one yesterday). (well handling 9.8mm £180)
I rate the velocity Paul, chopped it a few times but that's mainly just from stacked Sam falling on it
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I went for the "Climax" from Mammut. At £96 for an 80m it was hard not to (Rock and Run).
http://www.rockrun.com/deals/climbing-ropes/mammut-climax-9-6-x-80m
Other options were an Edelrid at ~£145, Revelation ~£160 and the Velocity £180 (all R+R). All coming in at around 9.5-9.8mm diameter.
First impressions are that it's a blue rope with a bit of an odd name.
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I went for the "Climax" from Mammut. At £96 for an 80m it was hard not to (Rock and Run).
http://www.rockrun.com/deals/climbing-ropes/mammut-climax-9-6-x-80m
Other options were an Edelrid at ~£145, Revelation ~£160 and the Velocity £180 (all R+R). All coming in at around 9.5-9.8mm diameter.
First impressions are that it's a blue rope with a bit of an odd name.
any further knowledge on your experience of the errr climax Paul? I need a long (70 or 80m) light string for euro sport type stuff. It'd be great if it didn't fall to pieces the instant i encounter a hard move and fall off; is this the bargain it sounds like, or should i get an ion2?
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I went for the "Climax" from Mammut. At £96 for an 80m it was hard not to (Rock and Run).
http://www.rockrun.com/deals/climbing-ropes/mammut-climax-9-6-x-80m
Other options were an Edelrid at ~£145, Revelation ~£160 and the Velocity £180 (all R+R). All coming in at around 9.5-9.8mm diameter.
First impressions are that it's a blue rope with a bit of an odd name.
Keen to know your thoughts too Paul B; don't do much chuffing any more but my rope is old enough to sit GCSE's now so really needs to go and this looks like a good cheap replacement.
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Good enough that I just ordered a second for my upcoming RRG trip.
One end could do with a chop around about now and it's been in use since purchase, at least 3 or so times a week, redpointing etc. It feels fairly slick (thin for the quoted diameter), and handles well.
Toby - Nat said there was another cheap Mammut on Rock and Run but I think it was near 10mm.
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Thanks Paul, sounds like a good option and probably worth a punt on one. Cheers!
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Anyone used one of these? http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-viper-96mm-ts-p-1321.html £106 for a 70m; or one of these? http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/software/climbing-ropes/edelweiss-energy-9-5mm-70m
I have to say I'm tempted to pay the extra 20-odd quid for the energy, though the stated diameter is only 0.1mm different, it is 2g/m lighter. I've not been hugely impressed with Sterling velocity, it is ok, but not, in my experience worth the extra they charge for them.
Any other recommendations 9.4-9.8mm, 70 or 80m?
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Anyone used one of these? http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-viper-96mm-ts-p-1321.html £106 for a 70m; or one of these? http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/software/climbing-ropes/edelweiss-energy-9-5mm-70m
I bought a load of ropes for my uni a few years ago, so I've used a couple of edelrid ~£50-80 gooutdoors ones, and some of those nice shiny mammut 9.3 ones. The cheap edelrids were hands down better, I'd probably get one again. Don't know if they make all their ropes to that standard though. The ones I had were 9.8-10mm I think, but they felt thin for that.
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Anyone used one of these? http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-viper-96mm-ts-p-1321.html £106 for a 70m; or one of these? http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/software/climbing-ropes/edelweiss-energy-9-5mm-70m
I have to say I'm tempted to pay the extra 20-odd quid for the energy, though the stated diameter is only 0.1mm different, it is 2g/m lighter. I've not been hugely impressed with Sterling velocity, it is ok, but not, in my experience worth the extra they charge for them.
Any other recommendations 9.4-9.8mm, 70 or 80m?
Toby I've been using a £90 9.8mm 70m Edelweiss rope from crag x. It's been well used in the last few weeks and holding up well, not as supple as my old my old sterling but is comfortable enough to use.
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My green rope (that I was using at Malham) is one of these, never had a problem with kinking or handling from new. Has worn well, only lost 4ft off it in over a year. Slightly cheaper but 1g/m heavier than the Edelweiss.
https://www.absolute-snow.co.uk/V/Mammut_Infinity_Classic_Rock_Climbing_Rope_70m_X_95mm_Green-(88262)
(https://www.absolute-snow.co.uk/V/Mammut_Infinity_Classic_Rock_Climbing_Rope_70m_X_95mm_Green-(88262))
The last Edeldrid I had (an Eagle I think, might be a budget one) was dreadful to start with and doesn't seem to wear anything like as well (EDIT, in fact this is the filthy blue one I was using on Monday)
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do not, i repeat DO NOT be a silly fucker and buy a "millet" rope while on holiday, or anywhere for that matter. It's the Magma TRX 9.5.
At first it handled well, nice and light, doesn't kink or twist too much...but...BUT within about 5 days use, predominantly on single pitch with no falls - there were multiple "nicks" in the sheath. Almost always on the woven colour patter parts, rather than the main green sheath.
I think they maybe have used poor quality fibre for the colour flashes. Now, 8 months later it's not a lot worse but the nicks are very noticeable lumps that you feel when belaying. Should really have taken it back but we were halfway round Europe in the van so it wasn't really possible.
Anyone know who makes Millet ropes?
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[I bought a load of ropes for my uni a few years ago, so I've used a couple of edelrid ~£50-80 gooutdoors ones, and some of those nice shiny mammut 9.3 ones. The cheap edelrids were hands down better, I'd probably get one again. Don't know if they make all their ropes to that standard though. The ones I had were 9.8-10mm I think, but they felt thin for that.
Thanks Dave, yeah I've got an Eldelrid perfect 10 50m for most British sport from Go Outdoors that was £50, and it seems great for a shorter rope, handles nicer than the Sterling does I think - although it is newer.
Thanks everyone else for decent advice - I've always liked Edelrid and Edelweiss ropes when i've used them (are they made in the same factory?
Mammut seem sometimes excellent and sometimes properly awful (Galaxy).
Sterling seem decent but a total rip off unless you get them on offer. I imagine this is because they are a US manufacturer.
I'll steer clear of Millet then: are they the Decathlon ones?
I'm erring towards the energy at the moment.
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Not sure you can even get Millet ropes here. Ours was a holiday purchase because the old one died.
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I'll steer clear of Millet then: are they the Decathlon ones?
They're usually Simmond aren't they?
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Anyone know who makes Millet ropes?
used to be Cousin (who now makes Simond ropes) and then some 3 or 4 years ago they switched to Beal.
It should be:
Cousin>Simond, maybe CAMP (not sure). They also sell Cousin-branded ropes (rare)
Beal France>Beal, Millet
Beal Madagascar>Edelweiss
Edelrid>Edelrid, Petzl
Mammut>Mammut
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Noticed that there are quite a few significantly discounted half ropes available that are not coated.
In practice how useful is a coating for UK trad ?
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10% helpful :clown:
Zero quantitative insight, but I've read it helps reduce dirt working into the rope.
I did once go climbing at White Ghyll in the pissing rain, the coating didn't stop the ropes getting soaked through.
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Imho coated ropes last much longer than un-coated. So much that it's worth the extra cost.
Btw, either I've started to fall less with age (quite possible) or ropes have become not only thinner but much more long-lasting.
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Coated ropes last a lot longer. Also absorb less water -> better handling. I wouldn't buy an untreated rope for (UK) trad. Got an untreated twin rope once (not for sale) and was shocked by how quick it became furry. Rapping in the rain was 'unpleasant'.
Good insight into production of climbing ropes: The Edelrid Ropebook: https://vaude-admin.twt-clients.de/out/pictures/uploads/file/EDELRID/Downloads/Seilfibel_2015_EN.pdf
Contains useful information about how ropes are produced, factors that can damage a rope, etc.
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Thanks jwi and HaeMeS
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Does anyone have experience of Roca ropes? Specifically the Kalymnis and Siurana single ropes.
Alpkit will apparently ship one to NZ for £10 and as the ropes are about £80, it seems to good to be true. :-\
Cheers
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Just taken a punt on these:
https://rockrun.com/products/edelrid-sinai-pro-dry-8-3mm-x-60m-pair
At that price they'd need to be shite to be a bad deal.
£150 the pair. Downsides seem to be - dull colours, only 30% sheath and only 9 UIAA falls so maybe not as durable as a Mammut Genesis. I'm not that tough on half ropes, so should be ok.
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If they are anything like my Edelrid Python (9.8mm single), which has been the workhorse of every holiday I've had for 6/7ish years, you should be okay. If money is no object, I like Sterling (my 9.4mm is the best lightness for strength / good handling I have encountered so far) but the Edelrid is the best value rope I have ever had.
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maybe not as durable as a Mammut Genesis.
Nothing is.
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I've just bought a Simmond 8.9mm 80m single for £109.99 (Decathlon; free delivery):
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/edge-rope-89-x-80m-id_8360084.html
The 100m is £119.99:
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/edge-rope-89mm-x-100m-id_8360082.html
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Anyone care to offer suggestions for an 80m sport rope? Not the lightest climber around so durability probably top priority. My last rope was an edelrid something 9.8mm which seemed fine and lasted pretty well. Will probably go for another of those unless anyone can recommend something better?
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Shrew rates the Simond job paul mentioned above, we’re considering it but maybe the other simond ones.
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yeah that pink 'edge' model sounds quite thin and light (56g/m) so imagine the larger unit would wear it pretty quickly? Would be interested to hear what those fatter (10mm) simond ones are like. maybe go too fat after a while to work nicely in a gri gri 2? Also, strangely, the simond ropes here and in spanish decathalogs are more expensive than back in the uk.
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the 10mm ones felt surprisingly skinny in the shop, we'll probably go for an 80 one of them. Good intel, will get it before we head out.
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I've just bought a Simmond 8.9mm 80m single for £109.99 (Decathlon; free delivery):
I took a fall on one of those recently. It didn't break. Recommended.
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Offer on Sterling kosmos ropes at rock n run, 80m for under £100 seems a decent deal?
https://rockrun.com/collections/sterling-kosmos-rope-deals?
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10.2mm x 80m = heavy
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Aha, good point, 67g/m.
Ah well, ordered one now, fortunately I'll generally only have to carry it as far as the Prow, can't face going up there anymore on a 8.6mm single/half combo that's not supposed to be for working routes, feels way too scary.
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It's been a while since I've tied in but I'm keen for some routes this year.
Given that I mainly project / redpoint (read: fall off) I normally go for something in the 10 - 10.5mm range. Popped into Outside earlier and the biggest diameter they had was 9.8mm.
Is sub 10 the new standard for single ropes? Recommendations for something hard wearing?
30m+ onsights aren't really my thing.....
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9.8 is the new 11.
I've been using Mammut Infinities (9.5) for the last few years. Seems to be a pretty solid workhorse rope.
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Aye, these days, 9.8mm is a workhorse rope.
9.4/9.5mm is good all rounder; robust enough for the working stage of an RP campaign, thin enough for the proper RP attempts.
9.2mm and below are for sponsored heroes and desperate souls, in despair of ever ticking their project, and a week away from cutting the labels off their clothes and popping pre-session Dulcolax!
I really like the Sterling 9.4mm Ion Fusions, really low drag but hard wearing, but I think they might have been discontinued (replaced with a 9.5mm and a 9.2mm).
Also, one thing to note is that the diameters of ropes, or at least how thick they feel, often seem non-standard even within the same manufacturer. A friend bought a 9.2mm Sterling, as an upgrade on his 9.4mm Sterling but the 9.2mm was grabbier and more draggy. Possibly, as the 9.4mm was part of the high performance "Fusion" range and had a nicer sheath construction than the coarser 9.2mm, which was part of the more all-rounder "Evolution" range.
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Speaking to a friend (I'm pretty sure he lurks here) a fair while ago now, a lot of this is due to there being no standard way to measure a lot of the parameters rope manufacturers give you i.e weight per metre (is that a stretched metre or otherwise)?
The sterling Ion 2's were brilliant. I'm still using the two Mammuts I posted about in this thread a fair while ago but they were the first and last of that model that I've ever seen.
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Just chopped the end of my last budget rope purchase for the first time, so good as time as any to review -
Simond 80m - 10mm - £90.00
I’ve been using this rope nearly everyday since mid-February, everything from turbo-dogging and long onsights to numerous “winch me!” top-rope scenarios. Similar to others above it says 10mm but in reality feels more like the 9.8 Sterling I previously owned. You can certainly feel the weight on the long stuff but it’s by no means a cable, I think it’s brilliant. Only downside is that it gets really dirty, is this due to a lack of dry-treatment? Edit: just read above stuff on it.
Recommended, cheap and lasting well.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/rock-10mm-x-80m-blue-id_8505643.html
Also got given the Simond 8.9mm pink one and that’s been the dogs particulars on long stuff and doesn’t feel scary thin. DanM on here once told me the reason the diameters are all out of wack but I’ve forgotten - Dan?
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Re diameters I believe that there is no standard of what tension, temperature, and several other variables rope diameters are measured at. Thus manufacturers will put a number on it they think will sell.
Vaguely remember this from a company training day when I worked for outdoor shops.
Grams per metre is a much better thing to look at.
Second all opinions about simond ropes, used the 9.5mm loads, great for everything.
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Re diameters I believe that there is no standard of what tension, temperature, and several other variables rope diameters are measured at. Thus manufacturers will put a number on it they think will sell.
Vaguely remember this from a company training day when I worked for outdoor shops.
Grams per metre is a much better thing to look at.
Second all opinions about simond ropes, used the 9.5mm loads, great for everything.
Not quite accurate but close enough. When they do the tests, the rope is always carefully conditioned wrt to temperature and humidity, because this makes a big difference with nylon's physical properties. They hang a weight on a sample of rope, and measure the diameter carefully in 6 different places, and take the average.
The annoying thing is that this figure has to be recorded to the nearest 0.1mm, but there is then an added +/-0.2mm variance allowed in the diameter quoted on the label and rope end marker. As an example, if you measured the diameter at 7.95mm, you could label and sell it as anything from a 7.7mm to an 8.2mm rope. Obviously this is a shoddy state of affairs, (given if you buy a belay device it will have a range of acceptable rope diameters to use with it) but BMC attempts to lobby for a more accurate reporting have so far been resisted, not for want of trying.
Density has to be reported to the nearest 1g using the actual measurements, so is much more accurate.
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Any recommendations on Single ropes? I’m looking to buy an 80m one for sport climbing abroad mainly I guess.
I’m no wad so doesn’t need to be the lightest in the world (or maybe that means it should!) but am looking to use it on high 7s/low 8s. Have a Petzl Ariel that I really rate. Might be a little heavy as an 80? Will last forever though.. how about the Volta?
Other option was I was considering a Simond... almost tempted by a 100m skinny one as you can just keep chopping forever!
Any other thoughts/recommendations?
Money not too much of an issue. Guess I’d maybe rather a good hard wearing rope for more dollar over a cheaper one that doesn’t last.
Cheers all
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The Simond 9mm 100m rope is popular here in Occitania. Wouldn't get it I was climbing mostly short routes though.
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Any recommendations on Single ropes? I’m looking to buy an 80m one for sport climbing abroad mainly I guess.
I’m no wad so doesn’t need to be the lightest in the world (or maybe that means it should!) but am looking to use it on high 7s/low 8s. Have a Petzl Ariel that I really rate. Might be a little heavy as an 80? Will last forever though.. how about the Volta?
Other option was I was considering a Simond... almost tempted by a 100m skinny one as you can just keep chopping forever!
Any other thoughts/recommendations?
Money not too much of an issue. Guess I’d maybe rather a good hard wearing rope for more dollar over a cheaper one that doesn’t last.
Cheers all
I'd probably go for the simond. I've used the 80m 9.5 a lot and it's great. Heard many recommendations for the 8.9. Even if they're not quite as good as a sterling etc they're less than half the price of top flight ropes, but they seem fine to me.
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The Simond ropes are as good as I've used. Cheap, handle well, and seem to last. Price lends itself to getting longer so you can chop ends and still have a decent length.
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I'm contemplating getting the Simond 100 metre for Kalmynos in the spring. Not sure I can entirely justify it though, by current 80 metre Mammut is getting a bit shabby but still has some life left in it.
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80m rope for a oner. (https://www.needlesports.com/85850/products/mammut-infinity-95-classic-80m-blue.aspx)
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Has anyone replaced a skinny half rope recently? Ours are looking tired. One is a 7.5mm Mammut Twilight and the other a ~8mm Edellrid offering (which I've hated from day 1).
What are people's experience of using skinny halfs? I have to say that with only the Mammut clipped I'm very conscious of how much stretch potential there is when close to ledges etc.
A slightly punterish question I suppose but can anyone confirm the Prussik diameter for use on such ropes (Google suggests 60-80% of the rope dia.)? As my half rope dia. has reduced, I haven't (to my knowledge) changed these (they're also looking ruined).
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I always found the idea of skinny halfs terrifying. OK when used as twins, but on a single strand.... shudder... I rather get 50m and slightly fatter than 60m and skinny.
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I'm pretty light which helps me feel a little less terrified.
I'm not going back to 50m now, I'll just end up going off the end of my ropes :worms:.
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Prussiking a 7.5mm rope... rather you than me! I'd rather be lowered into the sea. Apart from the scenario of falling off some overhanging sea cliff trav where you can see all of the rope and it not rubbing against anything, I can't think of any instance where I would dare prussik up a sub 8mm rope. I used to climb on Beal Icelines (8.1mm) and have witnessed how easily a brand new one can cut through #shudder
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The only time I've had to Prussik was mercifully both strands and it was my stupidity/laziness that lead to it.
I tend to get Nat to carry the Micro-traxion when we're climbing steep stuff near(er) her limit in case she ends up in space (again: see stretch!). There were times last week (Riglos) when I could've easily ended up in space and I was opting not to use the ropes as twins. Lowering wouldn't have worked.
(Plus T_B, you're literally twice my size.)
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I'm not sure I understand? Why were you climbing on one half rope?
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I wasn't but on pitches that weaved I was clipping alternate ropes. Sometimes these were a 'reasonable'* distance apart
* - reasonable as defined by the (re)bolter
Perhaps easier to discuss on FB to avoid diluting the thread?
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A bit niche but just I got a 30m single for £33 (https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/15902156/mammut-10-0-galaxy-classic-climbing-rope-10mm-o-x-30m-15902156). I'll use it for doing grit trad mileage with my other half who can't belay with two ropes yet but it could obviously do good service at the climbing wall or on the many Pennine lime routes that are <15m tall probably best to tie a knot in the end though.
The free postage says 3-5 working days but mine's turned up in less than 36 hours. :thumbsup: Not sure if it's web only or not.
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Thanks for this - I was looking for exactly the same thing, for simple early grit excursions with my 8-year-old...
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In the market for a new 60m sport rope. I was bought a Mammut Infinity for Christmas but it has deteriorated rapidly. Had some back and forth with Mammut and the retailer who won't replace it but that's beside the point. After using a friend's Petzl Volta the other day I was mightily impressed so am willing to spend more if it means getting the extra quality. Seeing as it will be my main UK rope predominantly used on 20-25m routes I was wondering if the Arial might give me a little more durability as weight would be less of an issue. Unfortunately I can't find it in stock anywhere in the UK and the places that have it in stock in Europe seem to be having shipping issues at the minute. Any other recommendations of something similar? Or is the general opinion that it's not really worth it and just to get the popular Simond option?
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If looking at pricier ropes I was really impressed with the Sterling Nano. Thin and handles well. Takes loads of abuse. Bit like me
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If you're mostly into redpointing and shorter routes then I wouldn't bother with a very thin rope, especially if you like steep things where you might bounce up if you fall off. Hauling around on a 9mm is a lot more of a pain in the
asshands than on a slightly thicker rope.
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In the market for a new 60m sport rope. I was bought a Mammut Infinity for Christmas but it has deteriorated rapidly. Had some back and forth with Mammut and the retailer who won't replace it but that's beside the point. After using a friend's Petzl Volta the other day I was mightily impressed so am willing to spend more if it means getting the extra quality. Seeing as it will be my main UK rope predominantly used on 20-25m routes I was wondering if the Arial might give me a little more durability as weight would be less of an issue. Unfortunately I can't find it in stock anywhere in the UK and the places that have it in stock in Europe seem to be having shipping issues at the minute. Any other recommendations of something similar? Or is the general opinion that it's not really worth it and just to get the popular Simond option?
Destroying a rope in 6 months, that is quite impressive! What were you doing with it?
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If you're mostly into redpointing and shorter routes then I wouldn't bother with a very thin rope, especially if you like steep things where you might bounce up if you fall off. Hauling around on a 9mm is a lot more of a pain in the asshands than on a slightly thicker rope.
Good point, thanks. Having never really climbed on a skinny rope hadn't thought of this as an issue. Another reason, other than durability, for sticking to something a little thicker for my main UK rope I guess.
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Yeah, I usually use a 9.5-9.8 in the UK (cornices, tor, working things at Malham or Kilnsey etc.) then bust out the 9-9.2mm for long onsights or for RP attempts on long things at Malham/Kilnsey. This is partly a way of not wearing out the thin rope, but it's definitely also because it's nicer to work things on a thick rope (unless they're v long) and I don't find the weight/drag an issue on short things anyway.
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If looking at pricier ropes I was really impressed with the Sterling Nano. Thin and handles well. Takes loads of abuse. Bit like me
Thin and handles well ;)
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Destroying a rope in 6 months, that is quite impressive! What were you doing with it?
Nothing, that's the problem! Had one go up putting the draws in Seventh Aardvark at Malham back in January. Back on the ground my belayer noticed that the rope had significantly furred up. Thought it might be a rogue draw but checked and nothing wrong. Used another rope for the rest of the day which was totally fine. Sent the rope back to the retailer who forwarded it on to Mammut. They said there was nothing wrong and it was safe. I agree that it was safe, for now, but the level of deterioration for literally one attempt on a route was not OK! I've used the rope for 4 or 5 sessions since lockdown has eased and it has just got worse. No word yet from the retailer but time to cut my losses.
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Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose
If the Infinity is that orange length of cack then if my experience is anything to go by then it will wear out really quick unless they've improved them in the last couple of years. This was especially disappointing given how well the Revelation lasts which is not intended as a workhorse rope. Mammut and the shop manager refused to accept the way my Infinity wore after 3 days on a sport rip was anything other than my fault about 4 years ago. I wanted my money back but only could get a goodwill replacement which also wore out quick. Others had similar experiences. I hope they have improved the durability since.
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What do people think of Beal ropes these days? I changed from a 10.3 Beal which was an absolute workhorse to a Mammut Revelation Dry 9.2mm and I'm having the exact same issues. Had to chop the ends off after a week in Spain in when the core came through the shealth (https://twitter.com/AdamBrownUK/status/914425824002154502) and have been wary of it since. After reading this thread seems it may be an issue with working shorter routes more.
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What do people think of Beal ropes these days? I changed from a 10.3 Beal which was an absolute workhorse to a Mammut Revelation Dry 9.2mm and I'm having the exact same issues. Had to chop the ends off after a week in Spain in when the core came through the shealth (https://twitter.com/AdamBrownUK/status/914425824002154502) and have been wary of it since. After reading this thread seems it may be an issue with working shorter routes more.
Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose
If the Infinity is that orange length of cack then if my experience is anything to go by then it will wear out really quick unless they've improved them in the last couple of years. This was especially disappointing given how well the Revelation lasts which is not intended as a workhorse rope. Mammut and the shop manager refused to accept the way my Infinity wore after 3 days on a sport rip was anything other than my fault about 4 years ago. I wanted my money back but only could get a goodwill replacement which also wore out quick. Others had similar experiences. I hope they have improved the durability since.
Interesting. Nearly everyone I have told about the issue seems to have an account (either personal or of a friend) of something similar happening with a Mammut rope. Telling, perhaps? Or maybe just unsubstantiated anecdotal evidence.
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What do people think of Beal ropes these days?
I like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdWW0GibtrI
(...especially after visiting).
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Destroying a rope in 6 months, that is quite impressive! What were you doing with it?
Nothing, that's the problem! Had one go up putting the draws in Seventh Aardvark at Malham back in January. Back on the ground my belayer noticed that the rope had significantly furred up. Thought it might be a rogue draw but checked and nothing wrong. Used another rope for the rest of the day which was totally fine. Sent the rope back to the retailer who forwarded it on to Mammut. They said there was nothing wrong and it was safe. I agree that it was safe, for now, but the level of deterioration for literally one attempt on a route was not OK! I've used the rope for 4 or 5 sessions since lockdown has eased and it has just got worse. No word yet from the retailer but time to cut my losses.
I had a Mammut Infinity 9.5mm (a version with a Teflon coating IIRC) and I had to chop the ends after 2 weeks of working routes at Malham. And, as anyone who knows me will attest, I am not heavy and very cowardly about taking big lobs. [and, having seen Toby climb, it seems unlikely the damage to his rope was due to his vast bulk taking massive whippers!].
My next rope was a 9.8mm Sterling that impressed me enough to get a 9.4mm Sterling Ion Fusion afterwards - which has handled well and lasted absolutely ages. Unfortunately it's been discontinued and replaced with a 9.2mm - which seems a bit thin for an RPing rope but I've heard good things about its durability. So, I'm minded to get the 9.2mm Sterling for my next rope (if I ever sport climb again- can't face hooking up with randoms at the moment, so sticking to bouldering). They never seem to be on special offer and you could probably buy two Simmonds for the same price but I'm personally happy to pay the extra - mentally amortised over a few years - for more certainty of having a really nice rope for its lifespan.
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For the UK I'd get the decathlon / simond 9.5. it's a decent rope I've used one on several sport trips. It seems fairly durable when fallen on a lot and seems to have a reasonably low impact force, subjectively, I haven't checked the figures.
I think impact force is worth paying more attention to since it effectively determines how comfortable it is to fall off on. Beal ropes have always tended to have a low impact force and handle nicely, but this tends to mean you fall slightly further, and the rope is less durable.
I really haven't ever found that paying more for your rope necessarily gets a much better product. They're all broadly going to be safe, but it's worth digging into the numbers on sheath %, impact force, etc which will give you a reasonable idea of what it will feel like in use.
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Interestingly I had a Mammut rope a few years ago and it was fine for me, lasted ages.
I would also recommend the Decathlon one (green one I think). Strikes a nice balance between handling and durability. The pink one (thinnest) is also very good.
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Another vote for the simond ropes. I've had the pink one for a couple of years (including more dogging than I'd like to admit to) and only just had to chop it for the first time. It's lasted way longer than I thought it would and I'll definitely be getting another when it finally dies.
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Interestingly I had a Mammut rope a few years ago and it was fine for me, lasted ages.
I would also recommend the Decathlon one (green one I think). Strikes a nice balance between handling and durability. The pink one (thinnest) is also very good.
Another vote for the simond ropes. I've had the pink one for a couple of years (including more dogging than I'd like to admit to) and only just had to chop it for the first time. It's lasted way longer than I thought it would and I'll definitely be getting another when it finally dies.
Thanks guys. I do hear lots of good things about the Simond ropes and, at about half the price of the premium alternatives, I will probably opt for the 9.5mm option as my 60m replacement. If I get on with it I might then get the skinny one as a replacement for my 80m which will probably need to be replaced next year.
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Mammut ropes seem to vary the most between “model” than any other manufacturer. I’ve had ones that I just couldn’t kill and only retired because it seemed sensible but there are obviously others that fall apart just from looking at them. I don’t know if it’s because they have different factories or what.
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This could possibly be something to do with Mammut stopping in-house production of ropes in Switzerland in 2016, and now contracting a Czech company to make them instead. Not many brands actually make their own stuff anymore!
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This could possibly be something to do with Mammut stopping in-house production of ropes in Switzerland in 2016, and now contracting a Czech company to make them instead. Not many brands actually make their own stuff anymore!
The Mammut I had issues with will have been before this. Like others have stated I had to chop it ridiculously frequently.
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Yeah, could be that they’re all shit now but in the past there was definitely this mixed bag of quality- evident in the reports earlier in this thread.
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Simon Decathlon ropes. Great handling and amazing value. Wont use any others now. Had one last 3 seasons home and abroad.
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If you're mostly into redpointing and shorter routes then I wouldn't bother with a very thin rope, especially if you like steep things where you might bounce up if you fall off. Hauling around on a 9mm is a lot more of a pain in the asshands than on a slightly thicker rope.
I have adapted to using sub 9.5 ropes in the last few years by keeping a prussik loop on my dogging draw.
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This could possibly be something to do with Mammut stopping in-house production of ropes in Switzerland in 2016, and now contracting a Czech company to make them instead. Not many brands actually make their own stuff anymore!
It's Teufelberger (Austrian) who make Mammut Ropes. They bought the Scion (Switzerland) production facility off Mammut in the restructuring. No idea if they kept it in location or moved it. Teufelberger also own Maxim Ropes (New England Ropes).
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Question from a string newbie... How does one know when to chop the ends? I was dangling on mine at Am Fasgadh the other day and noticed it had become very stiff and creaky. Is this just old age? The rope is 15+ years old but was barely used between buying it (maybe one massive lob at Kilnsey) and a few years ago.
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Stiff is probably fine, soft is when I'll chop mine. Typically the sheath becomes quite obviously damaged (very furry, maybe a bit of core visible) when it's time for the chop.
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It would be handy to have a proper guide to this. When I'm doing lots of dogging with short falls on the draw, often with not very much rope out, I find that I go through rope very very quickly. I can't help but think that I'm chopping too early.
The sheath is generally furry/fluffy (or sometimes even a bit crusty - like it's been friction burned slightly?) but I've never waited to see core! I try and chop before it gets to a point where you can pinch the rope and not see daylight through the bight.
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For single pitch, I tend to wait with cutting until I get a core shot. The main drawback is that when I get a core shot during a dogging session I will either have to abort or lower a loop and pull up a knife to shorten the rope (and I find it slightly freaky to cut ropes when hanging from a bolt). Ropes that I use for multipitch I tend to cut earlier not to have to deal with core shots while on the route (I hear that duct tape is OK for covering core-shots while on routes but I am not that hardcore).
I also would not use a 15 year old rope for anything at all.
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It would be handy to have a proper guide to this. When I'm doing lots of dogging with short falls on the draw, often with not very much rope out, I find that I go through rope very very quickly. I can't help but think that I'm chopping too early.
The sheath is generally furry/fluffy (or sometimes even a bit crusty - like it's been friction burned slightly?) but I've never waited to see core! I try and chop before it gets to a point where you can pinch the rope and not see daylight through the bight.
I generally keep using a rope if the damage is limited to slight sheath degradation. For me, the time to chop is when damage to the core is apparent - soft spots in the rope and it no longer hangs nice and straight - usually there are 1-2 metre long sections that are kinked and very floppy.
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Question from a string newbie... How does one know when to chop the ends? I was dangling on mine at Am Fasgadh the other day and noticed it had become very stiff and creaky. Is this just old age? The rope is 15+ years old but was barely used between buying it (maybe one massive lob at Kilnsey) and a few years ago.
Bloody hell, I've probably belayed you on that rope :o
Was the lob on Smooth Torquer by an chance?
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Yep, I still get the fear as a result of that incident! Thankfully I had a good belayer eh?!
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I also would not use a 15 year old rope for anything at all.
Interesting... others on here have said it's fine as long as it was stored OK!
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I have found that old ropes fray ridiculously fast, when used in anger. I guess they are absolutely fine if you don't plan to fall much 🤷♂️
For me personally they are not worth bringing since I have to cut the end after each dogging session
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I chop when I see the core.. I've never still had a long enough rope after 15 years to be worth using, but 10 years seems fine (though as jwi said, you end up chopping more and more the older it gets!)
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This may be a silly question, but I'm full of those... See the core through the sheath? or at the end of the rope?
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Haha, through the sheath. You can usually see it at the end of the rope surely??
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Well that's what I thought, but just wanted to double check... Cheers!
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For single pitch, I tend to wait with cutting until I get a core shot. The main drawback is that when I get a core shot during a dogging session I will either have to abort or lower a loop and pull up a knife to shorten the rope (and I find it slightly freaky to cut ropes when hanging from a bolt). Ropes that I use for multipitch I tend to cut earlier not to have to deal with core shots while on the route (I hear that duct tape is OK for covering core-shots while on routes but I am not that hardcore).
I also would not use a 15 year old rope for anything at all.
I'd rather use a 15 year old rope that's hardly had any use and well stored than a new one that's been abused like you describe above (and others!) Would give me the horrors.
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Yep, I still get the fear as a result of that incident! Thankfully I had a good belayer eh?!
I still get the fear thinking about it ;)
I wouldn't know about being a good belayer, but I was quick, on that occasion though.
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Yep, I still get the fear as a result of that incident! Thankfully I had a good belayer eh?!
I still get the fear thinking about it ;)
I wouldn't know about being a good belayer, but I was quick, on that occasion though.
I think we need a description here; there's not much space in which to take a lob off Smooth Torquer!
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Yep, I still get the fear as a result of that incident! Thankfully I had a good belayer eh?!
I still get the fear thinking about it ;)
I wouldn't know about being a good belayer, but I was quick, on that occasion though.
I think we need a description here; there's not much space in which to take a lob off Smooth Torquer!
Simply put:
Andy E got to the last (4th) clip on Smooth Torquer. Shaking like a shitting dog he pulled up an arm full of slack and tried to clip. Being almost completely a boulderer, his clipping technique was poor (to be polite). This resulted in him falling off, still having an arm full of slack out. I ran back and took in just enough slack to ensure that Andy E didn't end up with much shorter legs than he had on the walk in.
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My rope was at the point that I would normally chop it - fluffy and a bit crusty; soft in places but not diabolical. I inspected it thoroughly and found no sheath showing so deferred to my betters that it needn't be chopped.
During my friend's dogging go he commented to me that my rope was shit and that he was going in hard to the bolt so he could tie on lower down the rope. I asked him whether he was getting confused with the little white stripes on the rope and the alleged core. This is what there was:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51651090015_360db151c0_c.jpg)
This might be perfectly normal for jwi and Barrows but I think I'm going to stick to my guns in future and not try to squeeze every last session from the rope. Had my partner not been so observant he'd have been taking more falls with the core running over the draw which would have been worrisome.
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Will, go and tie your off-cut to a pull-up bar, weight it and get someone to knife through it strand by strand (with something soft beneath you). It's a demo Lyon equipment did when I worked in a gear shop and it's very impressive (or at least interesting).
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Will, go and tie your off-cut to a pull-up bar, weight it and get someone to knife through it strand by strand (with something soft beneath you). It's a demo Lyon equipment did when I worked in a gear shop and it's very impressive (or at least interesting).
A chance to cut Will's rope with him tied to the other end and with no consequences? Form an orderly queue! :lol:
This will teach him to throw my rope in the Kilnsey dirt...
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This feels like a stupid question.... can anyone recommend a good rope length for Kilnsey/Peak sport that gives a good balance between weight and durability (I.e. being able to chop it a couple of times and still be useful)?
As background, I have an 80m Simond / Decathlon rope atm. I bought it at that length not because I ever do anything anywhere near that long, but with the intention of cutting it down. However after lugging it around for the whole of last season I've still not had any reason to chop it, and I'm a bit fed up of how heavy it is! So thinking of getting something a bit shorter just to make life easier, but not sure whether to go for 50 or 60m.
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This feels like a stupid question.... can anyone recommend a good rope length for Kilnsey/Peak sport that gives a good balance between weight and durability (I.e. being able to chop it a couple of times and still be useful)?
As background, I have an 80m Simond / Decathlon rope atm. I bought it at that length not because I ever do anything anywhere near that long, but with the intention of cutting it down. However after lugging it around for the whole of last season I've still not had any reason to chop it, and I'm a bit fed up of how heavy it is! So thinking of getting something a bit shorter just to make life easier, but not sure whether to go for 50 or 60m.
The last two I've really hammered at the crag were 70m Mammut Climax (9.4mm ish I think). From memory (but obv check yourself) I could get down from Mandela and Seb's longer things above Dominatrix. The one I still have is just about ok to get down from just under the roof.
The Kilnsey walk in is about as short as they come so is it really that much of an issue? The Peak crags are hardly far either. I can remember buying a fat 80m when they first became readily available and that was a bloody pain to lug around various Euro crags.
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Haha! I love how lazy climbers are :lol: Grams per metre of typical 9.5mm rope is what, around 60 grams per metre? X 10-20 metres difference = 0.6 to, at most, 1.5 kg difference in your pack to walk 10 minutes in and out or 1 minute for Kilnsey. It's not Ceuse or walking up the Ben.
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It's also significantly lighter than a pad!
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Haha it's all about the marginal gains!
Weight is obviously part of it as I said but it's also a right pain to get twists out (which seems to happen a lot with mine) and it just seems daft when you're lowering off things and you're not even close to reaching the halfway mark when you get to the ground. Plus it's a lot more faff to switch which end you're using if you need to, and move around between routes. Not to mention how much space it takes up in my rucksack which could be used for other stuff. Generally makes rope management a lot more annoying anyway but I appreciate it's a minor thing.
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Why not keep your rope (and draws?) in a rope bag, separate to your rucksack? Can be strapped to a rucksack for walk-ins and leaves loads of room in your sack for everything else.
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Why not just answer the question? ::)
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Weight is obviously part of it as I said but it's also a right pain to get twists out (which seems to happen a lot with mine) and it just seems daft when you're lowering off things and you're not even close to reaching the halfway mark when you get to the ground. Plus it's a lot more faff to switch which end you're using if you need to, and move around between routes. Not to mention how much space it takes up in my rucksack which could be used for other stuff. Generally makes rope management a lot more annoying anyway but I appreciate it's a minor thing.
These reasons seem a little... weak? If you're using a rope tarp (or similar) it's a 5 sec job to change ends. I've always had issues with Edelrid ropes coiling like mad (not great when in their half rope form they'll loop round any foliage going just for a laugh). What is it? How are you storing it?
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Why not just answer the question? ::)
Ha! Having never climbed at Kilnsey or any Peak sport crags I can't answer the question bout ideal rope lengths I'm afraid.
All I can suggest is that it's at least twice the length of the longest route you want to do. :P Happy to help!
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I give up. :wall: :lol:
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The answer is 60m unless you want to climb the routes that go through that big roof at Kilnsey or the Prow routes at Raven Tor. You can do most stuff with a 50.
Obviously make sure you’ve always got a knot in the end. :look:
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The answer is 60m unless you want to climb the routes that go through that big roof at Kilnsey or the Prow routes at Raven Tor. You can do most stuff with a 50.
Obviously make sure you’ve always got a knot in the end. :look:
20 m is a good length for having some rigging length for cleaning boulder problems, so sounds like Bradders will get 2 for 1 out of his current rope!
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I find an 80m rope useful for all the best routes at Kilnsey. But I admit that I may be in a niche category there... 50m or 60m would be fine for most Peak and K stuff probably with the 80m for if/when you want to do something longer... but you obviously then have to decide what you're getting on before you go or go back to the car to get the long rope if you decide to get on something bigger. I just start with 80-100m every time, but then I do have short ropes I use somewhere like the cornices, they're just 10 year old ones that got chopped a lot and are now 50m...
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My question is how did you go a whole season without chopping?
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I find this all totally ridiculous when talking about marginally differences in rope lengths and weights. Totally insane.
Just get something long you can chop when end deteriorate. Maybe 10m longer than your longest route planned.
Are you actually being serious with this thread btw? Or just winding us up?
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I give up. :wall: :lol:
I mean fuck me can someone not just ask a simple question and get a simple answer on here?
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Some great advice so far. Not much to add. But have you considered walking poles? I know they're probably not very "cool" with the kilnsey and catwalk crowds, but they do help with heavy loads on long walk ins.
Like to the far end of Kilnsey crag.
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I give up. :wall: :lol:
I mean fuck me can someone not just ask a simple question and get a simple answer on here?
I really don't understand all the shit you've got for this question. Ropes are consumables for a sport climber , unless your only doing really long routes then having a shorter rope for peak , walls etc seems to make lots of sense to me
I have 50m (now 45ish) which I picked up cheap and use at peak / Dinbren/ plenty of Yorkshire crags, convenient to use on short routes. My longer rope gets taken out when I might need it. Since rope weight matters less on short routes this also means you can maybe go more.robust for this and reduce the wear on your thinner long rope.
A 60m might give you more options but I don't find it great struggle to decide which rope to take depending on where I'm going/ what routes in plan to do.
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I give up. :wall: :lol:
Ok ill bite.
I guess it depends what the longest route is you’d like to do.
Kilnsey and Malham have routes where you would need a 70m but also could get away with a 30m
As for ropes, ive gone off the Simonds of late. Having been a die hard fan for years now.
Rock and Run often do deals on Mammut ropes and a 50m galaxy i think it is would be a good option. If you know you are going on a longer route pack the 80m simond.
Mammut ropes do just seem to last from my experience. Maybe a tad on heavy side but very durable.
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question for Maaaargret?? :)
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I give up. :wall: :lol:
Ok ill bite.
I guess it depends what the longest route is you’d like to do.
Kilnsey and Malham have routes where you would need a 70m but also could get away with a 30m
Well, already having the 80m rope I'm okay for the longer ones if I get keen for them. Thought that was fairly obvious.
All I can tell you is there were a bunch of occasions last year where I thought "this would be easier / less faff with a shorter rope".
Anyway, got there in the end, thanks for all the advice folks.
My question is how did you go a whole season without chopping?
Lots of 2nd go redpoints after sitting on a bolt 1st go so probably didn't actually fall on it very much. Would be my guess anyway.
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Looking at buying a new rope. The contenders are made by either Fixe or Simond. Any idea which of these brands might have nicer handling?
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I'd say Simmond although I've not had that much experience of Fixe. My Simmonds handle really well IMO.
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Cheers. That makes it an easy decision since the Simond is cheaper (quite ridiculously so).
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Pretty sure there's nothing to compare with simond value wise, and only a couple of the very pricey options performance wise.
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Looking at buying a new rope. The contenders are made by either Fixe or Simond. Any idea which of these brands might have nicer handling?
The pink SImond 8.9 is one of the best ropes I've ever had. The green 9.5 otoh is very tangle-prone. Disappointing. But maybe I unpacked it wrong
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The green 9.5 Simond feels a bit thicker than 9.5 should feel as well. It stacks smoothly on multipitch routes for me. I have never used it for single pitch climbing.
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Another vote for the pink Simond 8.9, great rope, great price.
I do however wonder how Simond manage to manufacture such a good polyamide rope and sell it for such a low price...
...my hunch (zero evidence, I haven't looked) involves a Chinese manufacturer (that possibly uses coal as its power source) and opaque raw materials supply-chain, and not great environmental practice when disposing of the by-products of the manufacturing process. I could be completely wrong.
https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/polyamide-fabric
While the methods used to make polyamide fabrics may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, they are all alike in being derived from polyamide monomers. In some cases, polyamides may be derived from other sources, but the most common source of these monomers is petroleum oil.
This fossil fuel is also known as crude oil, and it is the base material for a number of different types of plastics and fuel. Petroleum oil is a non-renewable resource, and great lengths are taken to obtain it. Additionally, this base ingredient is inherently a pollutant, which means that the process of producing polyamide fabrics cannot be considered to be environmentally-friendly.
A slightly more ethical option - it's still a rope made from plastic fibres made from processing of crude oil - might be Edelrid:
https://blog.weighmyrack.com/how-climbing-ropes-are-made-at-edelrid/
https://blog.weighmyrack.com/eco-friendly-sustainable-climbing-ropes/
https://www.bluesign.com/en
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Thanks Pete and all. Too late for this time but I will bear this in mind for next time.
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I do however wonder how Simond manage to manufacture such a good polyamide rope and sell it for such a low price...
...my hunch (zero evidence, I haven't looked) involves a Chinese manufacturer (that possibly uses coal as its power source) and opaque raw materials supply-chain, and not great environmental practice when disposing of the by-products of the manufacturing process. I could be completely wrong.
https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/polyamide-fabric
Decathlon claim to have a green ethos, don't know to what actual depth that goes though; all members of the group and everything they do may not be included
https://sustainability.decathlon.com/
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Another vote for the pink Simond 8.9, great rope, great price.
I do however wonder how Simond manage to manufacture such a good polyamide rope and sell it for such a low price...
...my hunch (zero evidence, I haven't looked) involves a Chinese manufacturer (that possibly uses coal as its power source) and opaque raw materials supply-chain, and not great environmental practice when disposing of the by-products of the manufacturing process. I could be completely wrong.
https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/polyamide-fabric
While the methods used to make polyamide fabrics may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, they are all alike in being derived from polyamide monomers. In some cases, polyamides may be derived from other sources, but the most common source of these monomers is petroleum oil.
This fossil fuel is also known as crude oil, and it is the base material for a number of different types of plastics and fuel. Petroleum oil is a non-renewable resource, and great lengths are taken to obtain it. Additionally, this base ingredient is inherently a pollutant, which means that the process of producing polyamide fabrics cannot be considered to be environmentally-friendly.
A slightly more ethical option - it's still a rope made from plastic fibres made from processing of crude oil - might be Edelrid:
https://blog.weighmyrack.com/how-climbing-ropes-are-made-at-edelrid/
https://blog.weighmyrack.com/eco-friendly-sustainable-climbing-ropes/
https://www.bluesign.com/en
All Simond/Decathlon ropes are manufactured in France (by Cousin if you remember those horrible ropes). There is some form of recycling program of the ropes as well.
Source: https://www.grimper.com/news-100-cordes-simond-francaises-eco-concues
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Another vote for the pink Simond 8.9, great rope, great price.
I do however wonder how Simond manage to manufacture such a good polyamide rope and sell it for such a low price...
...my hunch (zero evidence, I haven't looked) involves a Chinese manufacturer (that possibly uses coal as its power source) and opaque raw materials supply-chain, and not great environmental practice when disposing of the by-products of the manufacturing process. I could be completely wrong.
https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/polyamide-fabric
While the methods used to make polyamide fabrics may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, they are all alike in being derived from polyamide monomers. In some cases, polyamides may be derived from other sources, but the most common source of these monomers is petroleum oil.
This fossil fuel is also known as crude oil, and it is the base material for a number of different types of plastics and fuel. Petroleum oil is a non-renewable resource, and great lengths are taken to obtain it. Additionally, this base ingredient is inherently a pollutant, which means that the process of producing polyamide fabrics cannot be considered to be environmentally-friendly.
A slightly more ethical option - it's still a rope made from plastic fibres made from processing of crude oil - might be Edelrid:
https://blog.weighmyrack.com/how-climbing-ropes-are-made-at-edelrid/
https://blog.weighmyrack.com/eco-friendly-sustainable-climbing-ropes/
https://www.bluesign.com/en
All Simond/Decathlon ropes are manufactured in France (by Cousin if you remember those horrible ropes). There is some form of recycling program of the ropes as well.
Source: https://www.grimper.com/news-100-cordes-simond-francaises-eco-concues
I'm more talking about where the polyamide (from which ropes are manufactured) is made, not the ropes themselves. I guess this is where a company being bludesign certified helps - knowing the source of the raw materials that make up the product and how those raw materials were processed. Like knowing whether the tin sticking all the electronics together in your laptop came from artisan miners dredging the seabed off Indonesia, or from a responsibly run underground mine. But good to know about Cousin-Trestec, thanks.
Not trying to be preachy btw, I have a simond and think it's great. But my next rope might be a bludesign one as I think it's far past the time we pushed these things more.
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I know it's a case of "by degrees" but most climbing ropes* are made from oil derivatives anyway, is it possible to trace if the crude originally came from the North Sea, KSA or Venezuela?
*(not recycled ones obviously)
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Yep all ropes made from crude oil (even the recycled ones, originally..), but not all manufacturers of polyamide will be equal. Some will use coal power, some hydro. Some will have a poor record for how they deal with contaminated water i.e. leakage into rivers, some won't. Etc. etc.
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Fair enough, but just different shades of black (stuff) surely.
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Looking at buying a new rope. The contenders are made by either Fixe or Simond. Any idea which of these brands might have nicer handling?
The pink SImond 8.9 is one of the best ropes I've ever had. The green 9.5 otoh is very tangle-prone. Disappointing. But maybe I unpacked it wrong
Second that, glad it's not just me. Mine is extremely tangle prone.
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My green one is fine… is it kinked or just tangly?
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My green one is fine… is it kinked or just tangly?
Mine was fine too. I've always found kinked up ropes out of the packet to be fine if you commit to spooling them out 10 times in a row.
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I've always found kinked up ropes out of the packet to be fine if you commit to spooling them out 10 times in a row.
A pull-up bar is a useful tool for this.
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I've always found kinked up ropes out of the packet to be fine if you commit to spooling them out 10 times in a row.
A pull-up bar is a useful tool for this.
Or wrap the rope in some thin card board with a hole in when you get it and pull rope out through hole.
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I've always found kinked up ropes out of the packet to be fine if you commit to spooling them out 10 times in a row.
A pull-up bar is a useful tool for this.
Or wrap the rope in some thin card board with a hole in when you get it and pull rope out through hole.
this seems like great knowledge!! so before you do anything to the rope just wrap it in cardboard and pull it out a hole in the cardboard?! You don't need to do anything to it?
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I've always found kinked up ropes out of the packet to be fine if you commit to spooling them out 10 times in a row.
A pull-up bar is a useful tool for this.
Or wrap the rope in some thin card board with a hole in when you get it and pull rope out through hole.
this seems like great knowledge!! so before you do anything to the rope just wrap it in cardboard and pull it out a hole in the cardboard?! You don't need to do anything to it?
Might need to cut bands keeping it together. Gaffa tape card on and away you go. Its basically how Edelrid supply there ropes.
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Like this.
https://shop.epictv.co.uk/en/single-ropes/edelrid/tommy-caldwell-eco-dry-ct-93mm?sku=713170800610&gclid=CjwKCAjw8sCRBhA6EiwA6_IF4YqMTiOKCPSnLNUo1y4c-g8cwdz9ImC5W9oFUOTS1BRY9MONKVtlfBoC6nAQAvD_BwE
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Good knowledge, thanks will give it a go. Psyched for the season now, just need to finish off the boulder projects!
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Any nice simple rope bags these days? I’ve got one which is just a sheet which the rope goes on, which folds into a little drawstring bag. Easy to stuff into a rucksack.
Seems like most are now a full on separate pack from scanning online?
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Dunno, we just use IKEA bags, but they are not great for 100m ropes. The dedicated rope bags available now all look ridiculous. Around here a cheap bit of tarp + coiling the rope at the end of the day to carry down from the crag seems the most fashionable choice.
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Any nice simple rope bags these days? I’ve got one which is just a sheet which the rope goes on, which folds into a little drawstring bag. Easy to stuff into a rucksack.
Seems like most are now a full on separate pack from scanning online?
I use an EB one , it goes on the top of my sack and is a simple light tarp/small bag with couple of buckles and a shoulder strap which is useful for moving around the crag. Since you can get it for £15 could just cut shoulder strap off if you don't need it.
https://www.millets.co.uk/15902207/eb-rope-bag-15902207
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Edelrid Liner is a nice simple sausage shaped ropebag that plays nicely with rope straps on top of rucksacks, thus avoiding having an additional clumsy & uncomfortable item slung on your shoulder
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Any nice simple rope bags these days?
Black Diamond Burrito - light, ridiculously easy to pack (just roll it up and the elastic does the rest) and often on sale. Goes in your sac easily, unlike an IKEA bag.
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I've just checked the Simond pink 8.9 against the Joker 9.1 and I reckon the Simon is thicker?!
How have you lot found the longevity? My old triple rated seemed to get wrecked pretty quick.
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Further on Decathlon / Simmond, so far they haven't pulled out of Russia, in spite of mounting pressure to do so.
https://www.connexionfrance.com/article/French-news/Pressure-mounts-on-French-brands-to-close-stores-in-Russia
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I've just checked the Simond pink 8.9 against the Joker 9.1 and I reckon the Simon is thicker?!
How have you lot found the longevity? My old triple rated seemed to get wrecked pretty quick.
I cant remember the details but there something funky with how rope diameters are measured which means they don't compare very well. I think comparisons between ropes in a brand are ok nut between brands not so much? Im sure danm would know the details.
I've been well impressed with how long my simond 8.9 has lasted. Used it pretty much exclusively for a year (170 routes according to UKC) before having to chop it then got the usual extended life from repeated chops.
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I've just checked the Simond pink 8.9 against the Joker 9.1 and I reckon the Simon is thicker?!
Don't believe or rely on the stated diameter - manufacturers are allowed a degree of tolerance when giving the diameter which makes it fairly useless for comparing different ropes thickness. Better to compare the weight per metre, which gives a much better guide to how much material is in the rope.
When they do the tests, the rope is always carefully conditioned wrt to temperature and humidity, because this makes a big difference with nylon's physical properties. They hang a weight on a sample of rope, and measure the diameter carefully in 6 different places, and take the average.
The annoying thing is that this figure has to be recorded to the nearest 0.1mm, but there is then an added +/-0.2mm variance allowed in the diameter quoted on the label and rope end marker. As an example, if you measured the diameter at 7.95mm, you could label and sell it as anything from a 7.7mm to an 8.2mm rope. Obviously this is a shoddy state of affairs, (given if you buy a belay device it will have a range of acceptable rope diameters to use with it) but BMC attempts to lobby for a more accurate reporting have so far been resisted, not for want of trying.
Density has to be reported to the nearest 1g using the actual measurements, so is much more accurate.
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I've just checked the Simond pink 8.9 against the Joker 9.1 and I reckon the Simon is thicker?!
Don't believe or rely on the stated diameter - manufacturers are allowed a degree of tolerance when giving the diameter which makes it fairly useless for comparing different ropes thickness. Better to compare the weight per metre, which gives a much better guide to how much material is in the rope.
When they do the tests, the rope is always carefully conditioned wrt to temperature and humidity, because this makes a big difference with nylon's physical properties. They hang a weight on a sample of rope, and measure the diameter carefully in 6 different places, and take the average.
The annoying thing is that this figure has to be recorded to the nearest 0.1mm, but there is then an added +/-0.2mm variance allowed in the diameter quoted on the label and rope end marker. As an example, if you measured the diameter at 7.95mm, you could label and sell it as anything from a 7.7mm to an 8.2mm rope. Obviously this is a shoddy state of affairs, (given if you buy a belay device it will have a range of acceptable rope diameters to use with it) but BMC attempts to lobby for a more accurate reporting have so far been resisted, not for want of trying.
Density has to be reported to the nearest 1g using the actual measurements, so is much more accurate.
As much as all of the above seems appalling, it was me that has been lobbying on behalf of the BMC to get EN 892/UIAA 101 changed but the main reason it hasn't is due to the manufacturing tolerances achievable with softgoods. I am still not happy in the responses I have received and no other associations nor manufacturers appear to be concerned, however, due to a performance aspect being introduced to the new EN 15151-3 (belay devices with assisted braking) and potentially introduced to parts 1 and 2, it will become more pertinent.
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I usually just look at the linear density in grams per metres. That is less variable between measurements and tells me pretty much the same thing as the diameter.
Also, some ropes get really fat with age. A really old joker that has been cut down from 80 to 50 m looks like an indoor centre rope, it barely passes through the grigri2
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Anybody any experience of the Mammut Crag We Care 9.5?
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I bought one recently for a three week trip. Handled really nicely and not even close to being needed to cut after the trip.
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Oops. Forget that. It was the Crag Classic I bought.
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Haha no worries, thanks deeba!
Failing that, anyone got any recommendations for a good 70 m sport rope for Scottish use, at a good price? Ta!
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Just give it a puny, it's a mammut 9.5 so I imagine it'll be great....
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I've been using a Simond 9.5mm rope for a few years and have no complaints at all, in fact Andy you belayed me on it on Katy Morag at Camus an Leim.
To be fair I don't use it enough to be able to say whether it's significantly different to the many other ropes on the market, but it does the job for me and I'd happily get another when the time comes.
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Oops. Forget that. It was the Crag Classic I bought.
This looks to be the same rope without residual yarn of the 'we care' one https://www.mammut.com/uk/en/products/2010-04470/9-5-crag-we-care-classic-rope
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Yes I believe it is, was just wondering about how the residual yarn performed, shouldn't really be any different to normal should it?
Ali/Gaz, thanks!
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I need some new half ropes, and I'm looking at the Simond Rappel 8.6 or the Beal Cobra 8.6.
Anyone used any of those and like them, or anything else I should consider instead?
One thing on my mind is whether these days I should just buy a pair of thin triple rated ropes like the Beal Opera, but that would be a lot more expensive.
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I need some new half ropes, and I'm looking at the Simond Rappel 8.6 or the Beal Cobra 8.6.
Anyone used any of those and like them, or anything else I should consider instead?
I'd consider something lighter. I got 50m x 8mm Mammuts a few years ago with a view to using them in the Dolomites and such like but I've since appreciated the weight saving on UK routes and walk-ins. They are wearing well. I've fallen on them occasionally and the stretch doesn't seem excessive. If I did a lot of easy trad. and/or mostly climbed on grit I might choose something burlier.
Discussion of thinner ropes here (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30168.msg675395.html#msg675395). TL/DR: Beal Icelines are too stretchy for most people.
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I’ve just bought a Petzl Tango 8.5mm. Seems v nice. It was cheap and I guess my rationale is buy cheap and replace more often. Rather than feeling like you need to get ‘value’ out of your very expensive Beal. I also climb on Grit mostly and seem to fall off a lot nowadays.
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I need some new half ropes, and I'm looking at the Simond Rappel 8.6 or the Beal Cobra 8.6.
Anyone used any of those and like them, or anything else I should consider instead?
I'd consider something lighter. I got 50m x 8mm Mammuts a few years ago with a view to using them in the Dolomites and such like but I've since appreciated the weight saving on UK routes and walk-ins. They are wearing well. I've fallen on them occasionally and the stretch doesn't seem excessive. If I did a lot of easy trad. and/or mostly climbed on grit I might choose something burlier.
Discussion of thinner ropes here (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30168.msg675395.html#msg675395). TL/DR: Beal Icelines are too stretchy for most people.
Interesting, I think I've been put off by a tendon "8mm" I bought a while ago which feels climbing on like dental floss. I remember that thread now and will have another look paying attention to grams per meter instead of just diameter.
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2nd the 8mm Mammuts plenty solid enough for alpine / big mountain / trad.
Having had a triple rated (that was bought, and handy, for a US trip) I feel they are very niche and you'll know if you need them. If you think you need half ropes, but are "considering" triples, don't bother. They have to sacrifice sheath for core to hit the strength requirements and hence are less abrasion resistant in my experience.
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If you go for thin half-ropes and believe that the leader could be falling far or close to the belay on a multipitch, get an assist-breaking belay device like the Edelrid Jul (https://edelrid.com/eu-en/sport/belay-devices/micro-jul?variant=1197), and practice using it. In my experience, it is really difficult to hold hard falls on twins/thin halfs when tied into a belay. I would not trust myself to be able to hold a hard fall by someone my weight or slightly heavier if I belayed with a reverso or ATC when I am tied into a belay.
Edit. I have a Simond Halfrope and am fairly happy with it. I don't use it much though, so my opinion is worthless.
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Valid point by JWI. I've been using 7,5mm twin ropes for ages on long rock and ice routes. Love 'm, but you need to be careful whilst belaying and rappelling. Best to use a Microjul or similar device. Your partner as well! And yes, beefier ropes are safer and better suited for Alpine routes. But I prefer twin ropes over a single rope on long multipitch climbs (I'd rather have 2 skinny ropes instead of a single rope). Nearly cut both ropes once during a very long fall and won't use a single rope because of that experience.
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How heavy are you JWI?
We were using skinny half ropes with a Reverso 4 and I definitely tested the setup a few times! We're both pretty light though.
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73 kg. So close to 80 kg when dressed and all racked up.
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Yeah that's a fair difference. I think I said it elsewhere, my super skinny halfs were great on the walk in but not always confidence inspiring with one clipped when heading around a sharp looking arete. We settled for Mammut 8mm half ropes and although I curse them in the walk-in (in comparison) they do seem to be the sweet spot.
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2nd the 8mm Mammuts plenty solid enough for alpine / big mountain / trad.
Having had a triple rated (that was bought, and handy, for a US trip) I feel they are very niche and you'll know if you need them. If you think you need half ropes, but are "considering" triples, don't bother. They have to sacrifice sheath for core to hit the strength requirements and hence are less abrasion resistant in my experience.
Yeh I think I’d taken triples to basically be harder wearing halves, which it turns out they aren’t. So will just go for halves instead
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If you go for thin half-ropes and believe that the leader could be falling far or close to the belay on a multipitch, get an assist-breaking belay device like the Edelrid Jul (https://edelrid.com/eu-en/sport/belay-devices/micro-jul?variant=1197), and practice using it. In my experience, it is really difficult to hold hard falls on twins/thin halfs when tied into a belay. I would not trust myself to be able to hold a hard fall by someone my weight or slightly heavier if I belayed with a reverso or ATC when I am tied into a belay.
Edit. I have a Simond Halfrope and am fairly happy with it. I don't use it much though, so my opinion is worthless.
Jim Titt did some tests showing that for high fall factors, typically these devices have a reduced braking force compared to low fall factor falls. Makes sense as compression of the rope will be greater so the pinching effect will be reduced. Essentially, their braking performance reduces when you ideally need it to increase. You can get a boost to the braking force of a traditional manual belay device by doubling up the belay krab, useful for abbing on skinny ropes too.
Another option if anticipating big falls is to allow body dynamic belaying by extending the belay length. Caveats apply - you need to be prepared to move upwards and ensure there are no things to hit on the way up, but it will have the benefit of a softer catch and if climbing trad with some unreliable protection may mean they are more likely to stay in.
I'd also suggest if using skinny ropes you should also really consider using belay gloves.
Back to the topic, my Petzl Rumba 8mm is fairly skinny and light, and appears to be indestructable. A 60m is all I need for grit trad and pairs up for mountain trad assuming I ever go and do any again!
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https://rockrun.com/collections/edelweiss-clearance/products/edelweiss-rocklight-ii-9-8mm-x-80m?variant=43123013779637
deal of the decade if anyone is after an 80m rope.
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oof, good prices, i really should replace mine. For general indoor leading and outdoor toproping / leading with the boy (ie nothing where weight of rope will matter). what would be better, 60m O-flex or Flashlight? Look much of a muchness.
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Oh balls! I’ve just paid 150 Euro for one in Decathlon (which is a pretty decent price really)
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Bargain :o Anyone in Sheffield want to chop this in half with me?
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what would be better, 60m O-flex or Flashlight?
Decision made by dithering as one went out of stock. Went for the Flashlight.
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You got the one I dithered too long to get!
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Anyone got any up to date beta on a decent 70m sport rope? For euro cragging and the like.
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In recent years I've used the Decathlon pink 8.9 and green 9.5. Found the pink far superior, one of the best ropes I've ever had.
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Edelrid Swift is extremely durable and well handling for an 8.9. The hummingbird is the 9.2 version which feels very similar but a little more suited to abuse. They last so well I don’t see the point in going thicker unless you dog around on bouldery projects a lot.
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In recent years I've used the Decathlon pink 8.9 and green 9.5. Found the pink far superior, one of the best ropes I've ever had.
Unfortunately the pink simond ropes have been recalled and seem to have been out of stock for quite a while, so could be a while before they're available again (if at all).
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Anyone got any up to date beta on a decent 70m sport rope? For euro cragging and the like.
buy an 80m one.
Flippancy aside it really is the way, 35+m routes aren't that uncommon, and means you can chop a couple of times and still have a usable length rope too.
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The green simond 9.5 is a perfectly good rope and avoids the tendency to go stiff like a cable that the pink does. I've just bought another one.
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Unfortunately the pink simond ropes have been recalled and seem to have been out of stock for quite a while, so could be a while before they're available again (if at all). - remus
As I understood from here, I thought the recall was just for the 80m and 100m versions of the pink Simond ropes?
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/simond-edge-rope-recall
I've got a 60m one, and I'm still using it. @Remus, is there more info you've heard of that I'm missing?
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Haven't heard anything since the original recall notice but haven't been keeping an ear out, so it's possible decathlon may have said something else since then.
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As the Simond 8.9 is impossible to get right now, what is the preferred option? Beal Joker?
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As the Simond 8.9 is impossible to get right now, what is the preferred option? Beal Joker?
The green simond 9.5 rope is decent in my experience.
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Ditto
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As the Simond 8.9 is impossible to get right now, what is the preferred option? Beal Joker?
The green simond 9.5 rope is decent in my experience.
I have one of those for multip-pitch routes, as I'm a bit too paranoid to lead on a single 9mm if there are big features, but 9.5 is too heavy for a very light climber who prefer pitches > 35 m
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That would fall well into the realms of marginal gains for me! Never even considered rope weight.
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That would fall well into the realms of marginal gains for me! Never even considered rope weight.
If you weighted 53 kg, were excessively weak for your grade, and liked to climb 50 m pitches with thin vertical cruxes just below the chains you would! (TBH, I think that drag is often a bigger factor and drag seems to increase with diameter)
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Honestly it’s bizarre to me that nobody is looking at Edelrid ropes. By far the best on the market imo.
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My experience of Edlerid ropes are they coil around everything and anything. One of my half ropes was Edlerid and it was terrifying to use in the Verdon as the smallest of juniper roots was a perfect hook in its eyes.
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That would fall well into the realms of marginal gains for me! Never even considered rope weight.
you can not be serious! have you never done a 45meter pitch before? its horrendous pulling against the weight of a heavy rope. :blink:
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Of course I have, but can genuinely say I didn't think the rope I was using was the issue. I've never owned a super skinny one as I always buy the cheapest I can find so maybe one day I will have my mind blown!
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Honestly it’s bizarre to me that nobody is looking at Edelrid ropes. By far the best on the market imo.
They’re what I use, a pair of Mammut Genesis half ropes excepted, cause they’re tough as old boots.