UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: shark on March 06, 2014, 07:40:41 pm
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Unfortunately Rich Simpson never replied to my email :shrug: but that's OK cos I've got a new bestie - its only Malcolm Smith :bow:
Chris Houston is putting together a feature length film together with old and new climbing footage and is kind enough to let me do the interview 8).
The working title is: "Malcolm Smith Climbing Legend"
Malc and Chris will be coming down at the end of April but in the meantime anyone going to CWIF has a chance to wadcheck the man himself.
Ideas for questions...
I'm going to lie down down now, I'm feeling a bit giddy
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That's a big scalp Sharkio, rrrrrespecckkk!
Another one to look forward to.
:bow:
I would ask this: bearing in mind he's a training beast, does he derive more enjoyment from climbing his projects outside or from the act of training itself , and why.
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Great news about interview and the film.
Although there is a lot of JG love here Malc has always been my favourite.
Obvious question but what is his climbing achievement that he is most proud of?
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Has he seen the video of Barrows doing Pilgrimage and did he feel a sharp pain in his chest whilst watching it?
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Can you make sure it's subtitled, like this?
http://youtu.be/ngQbNJeCVls
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Has he seen the video of Barrows doing Pilgrimage and did he feel a sharp pain in his chest whilst watching it?
Was already in my mind to broach this one
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Has he seen the video of Barrows doing Pilgrimage and did he feel a sharp pain in his chest whilst watching it?
Pain in his knee more like..
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Can you make sure it's subtitled, like this?
http://youtu.be/ngQbNJeCVls
Pro Tips, those were fucking dynamite, for so many reasons.
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STRONG WEAK
MALC THE REST
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Has he seen the video of Barrows doing Pilgrimage and did he feel a sharp pain in his chest whilst watching it?
I'd genuinely be interested in the answer to this
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Also, is there anything he really regrets not having done - 'one that got away' that niggles to this day?
I'd be interested in his thoughts on dieting and weight for climbing, though some may consider the topic controversial.
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Also, is there anything he really regrets not having done - 'one that got away' that niggles to this day?
I'd be interested in his thoughts on dieting and weight for climbing, though some may consider the topic controversial.
Its on the list - hes talked about this in past interviews
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Why does he advise against crash dieting when it was so successful for him?
Did he ever manage Stuart Cameron's 'infamous tricep press move' on their board in Sheffield (qv Young Ones article in OTE)
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His thoughts on the likes of Moon, Moffat, Gaskins, Shauna, Hazel, maybe even Simpson :worms: and all other strong British climbers/boulderers (too much to name them all).
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Which way is he gonna vote in the referendum? Could he chalk up on the Hubble undercuts again next time ondra comes to the uk to try it?
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How does it feel to be the strongest?
How did he prepare mentally before a redpoint attempt, or an onsight, or a hard problem?
Would he like to come over in Italy, repeat everything on rock and set on my board?
Cheers Shark. This is the real deal. No offense for anyone, but to me there is only Malc.
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The legend
Any training programs what worked for Him as increasing strength? does he still lift weights what was his max lifts?, any plans for the future
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Is he disappointed that no-one has ever made the effort to repeat Lothlorien or Leviathan? Or were they just training exercises?
Good work, this should be great.
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How hard does he think he might have climbed had he not been lumbered with Scarpas?
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Is Hunger a significant step up in difficulty from hubble and does he agree with recent thoughts that hubble is actually nearer 9A?
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Awesome news!! :2thumbsup:
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did he enjoy climbing sessions where he just out climbed everyone and if so was this a motivation for him to keep training? to stay ahead of everyone?
Also who was his favourite person to burn off?
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Some people (on this forum) once suggested he never reached his true potential because he went down the line of being 'streng' rather than pursuing technical excellence whereas others suggested that 'streng' was indeed his potential. Which is/was it?
Is Shark just doing the interviewing? Please don't let him near anything with batteries, an on/off switch or anything else he could screw up!
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what does he consider to be his climbing weaknesses?
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Is Shark just doing the interviewing? Please don't let him near anything with batteries, an on/off switch or anything else he could screw up!
Take a few spare SDHC cards to avoid nipping out to get some.
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Is there any truth to the rumour that after burning off the great and the good of the Sheffield mafia at the school room, Malc sent jaws dropping :jaw: by lifting his shirt to reveal a weight belt...
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Is there any truth to the rumour that after burning off the great and the good of the Sheffield mafia at the school room, Malc sent jaws dropping :jaw: by lifting his shirt to reveal a weight belt...
I'm sure I read that rumour, or one very similar, in OTE in a write up of one of the BBCs at the foundry.
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Shark in recreation of splinter climbing sequence?
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Ask him if he remembers the trip with the Smythe paprika incident, Ian Harrison's muesli shoes, him getting caught shoplifting etc.
Looking forward to this shark, Malc is a proper legend.
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Is he disappointed that no-one has ever made the effort to repeat Lothlorien or Leviathan? Or were they just training exercises?
Andy Earl put some effort in - I remember seeing him throw a massive tantrum when he came off towards the end.
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Is there any truth to the rumour that after burning off the great and the good of the Sheffield mafia at the school room, Malc sent jaws dropping :jaw: by lifting his shirt to reveal a weight belt...
I'd always heard it was the foundry wave: he flashes all the new problems in a set, reveals weight belt.
Someone must be close to source on this one without having to ask Malc, there were always loads of people hanging around all the time.
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Does he still have his old board?
And when was the last time he did The Hubble Problem? 5 year gap to Splinter!
Would he come to Aus for some climbing? There's an unrepeated V14/15 20 min away... I can ask him that on facebook...
Fucking excited for this one!!
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Good work shark :2thumbsup:
What are his current goals/projects/motivation for climbing?
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Has he seen the video of Barrows doing Pilgrimage and did he feel a sharp pain in his chest whilst watching it?
I'd genuinely be interested in the answer to this
I doubt he'd be the least bothered - a lot of his hardest Dumby testpieces were aided by a decent rubber kneepad.
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Awesome. I predict the answer to if he still does weights is YES and if you ask him his weakness he'll say technique.
I can't find it now but at some point he said something like '8C is a ridiculous grade' or possibly even '9a is a ridiculous grade.' Ask him if he still stands by that, I suspect he might talk about grade goalposts moving so ask him if he thinks anything that gets 8C now would have done back in the day. Which also links in to 'is Hubble 9a' I suppose.
Also ask him if he has any projects left at Dumbarton, and ask Chris when the full film is coming out.
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In all the talk about then interview I overlooked the feature film bit. Should be excellent; great subject and Chris Houston does a great video too. https://vimeo.com/houstonioni/videos
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Was he ever tempted to try any of the Gaskin's unrepeated desperates, VNB, Shadowplay etc if not why not? What's his 'desert island' problem/route list and and why?
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Please can you ask him directly if Rich Simpson was stronger than him. I know (or think) they climbed together on a couple of occasions.
Also, the one other thing I'd like to know is what he felt was his absolute maximum move that he ever did and how can he quantify it in such a way that will enable others to benchmark themselves against it. I'd like to introduce the malc as a unit, where we all come up as <0.2 malc or in the case of someone being stronger, 1.2 malc. It would be great to get some vital statistics around number of one armers, one armers with weights, pull up with weights, etc.
In a similar vein, please ask if the hardest move he ever did was mental or physical. And how close to his physical limit he ever managed to go with climbing (or training for climbing). Especially how it relates to his current pursuit of weight lifting.
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I have a few..
Any goals he didn't achieve? Any regrets?
His biggest spanking?
Has he got anything 'big' left in him? (please say yes...)
Will he still keep climbing as he gets older and he maybe has to lower his standards? And how will he stay motivated??
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Has he ever been motivated to try something like a 35m enduro 8c, or is climbing to him all about short hard things.
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Does he still do 200 boulder problems on a training day?
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I have a few..
Any goals he didn't achieve? Any regrets?
His biggest spanking?
Has he got anything 'big' left in him? (please say yes...)
Will he still keep climbing as he gets older and he maybe has to lower his standards? And how will he stay motivated??
It might not have been Malcolm but didn't some really strong bastard get really spanked on a 5+ at one of the in vogue French sports crags back in the day?
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I have a few..
Any goals he didn't achieve? Any regrets?
His biggest spanking?
Has he got anything 'big' left in him? (please say yes...)
Will he still keep climbing as he gets older and he maybe has to lower his standards? And how will he stay motivated??
It might not have been Malcolm but didn't some really strong bastard get really spanked on a 5+ at one of the in vogue French sports crags back in the day?
Even Ondra did not get the flash of a classic 6A in Fontainebleau ...
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:smart:
Has he ever been motivated to try something like a 35m enduro 8c, or is climbing to him all about short hard things.
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He did cry freedom in a day 20 or so years ago. Only 8b+ but surely along the lines of what you ask.
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Has he ever been motivated to try something like a 35m enduro 8c, or is climbing to him all about short hard things.
I watched him piss (and I mean piss) bat route when I was about 18 (17 years ago). Cubby was belaying, conditions were tops off warm, and I've been inspired ever since.
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Please can you ask him directly if Rich Simpson was stronger than him. I know (or think) they climbed together on a couple of occasions.
Rich told me that when they climbed together in the school, he was stronger than Malc. He also told me that he was selected for the GB Olympic boxing team for China 2008...
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And I heard he did a sub 4 mile. The guy is obviously strong. I wonder what Malc's times are on the mile and the marathon? :tease:
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Can Malc categorically displell the rumour that when he did Hubble he was so weak we had to be carried from the car to the crag?
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Good work shark :2thumbsup:
What are his current goals/projects/motivation for climbing?
On a related topic, I'm interested in how he feels his life now compares to when he was at the peak of his fame. What is he doing now, and does he feel he has now achieved a good balance between "normal" life and climbing. Presumably he is proud of his achievements, but does he have misgivings about the sacrifices they involved - does he look back at his young-self and think "bloody 'ell, I must have been mad".
Or, could he still summon that amount of focus, given a suitable inspiration - and if so, what does he think his limits are? Any potential projects in mind, has he looked at any of the modern test-pieces and thought "that'd go".
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Is he aware how many people he inspired at a local and much wider level?
Gary and I attribute The Malc as being the only reason that he and I were any good at all.
In a similar vein, who made him realise what was achievable?
One last question (thinking of something dense posted) Can he confirm or deny the mystic stylez incident?
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Does all the man love on ukbouldering make him cringe. :whistle:
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Does all the man love on ukbouldering make him cringe. :whistle:
I'm sure Shark would pass on your number... ;)
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:smart:Has he ever been motivated to try something like a 35m enduro 8c, or is climbing to him all about short hard things.
[/quote
He did cry freedom in a day 20 or so years ago. Only 8b+ but surely along the lines of what you ask.
]
Progress and True North aren't shorties either.
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Does all the man love on ukbouldering make him cringe. :whistle:
I'm sure Shark would pass on your number... ;)
I prefer tall and gangly like your good self.
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Does all the man love on ukbouldering make him cringe. :whistle:
I'm sure Shark would pass on your number... ;)
I prefer tall and gangly like your good self.
:D
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Ok re-phrase my question, to:
Training hard <#understatement> to be as strong as possible for very hard sequences is what you're most well known for - why do you think you chose to focus so much on strength and how does your endurance/power endurance (insert whichever energy-system terminology you understand here) stack up versus your strength; would you say it's naturally good (and therefore not needing as much work, relative to strength) or naturally poor and something you had to work hard at to able able to do routes requiring fitness? And which route would you find most motivating - a 35m enduro 9a or a 10m boulder-problem 9a?
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Just to clarify for rodma, it was fabian christoph who told me that. With the throwaway comment afterwards he probably won't remember something that was clearly insignificant to him. He also said he was a monster, clearly in awe of his strength, and fabian is no slouch at all.
i think when asked about his training malc should just say " stay open" and leave it at that, staring at shark all the while until he crumbles and runs out of the house.
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Can he confirm or deny the mystic stylez incident?
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What's the Mystic Stylez incident?
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Did he ever try Brandenburg Gate... if so what did he think?
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Can he confirm or deny the mystic stylez incident?
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What's the Mystic Stylez incident?
iirc it's that he basically pissed it but didn't top out and declared it both log and piss, for which we need a new term and I propose that term as being squits, but only because I can't think of another term for diarrhoea at the moment
:)
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Remember hearing that, legend
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iirc it's that he basically pissed it but didn't top out and declared it both log and piss, for which we need a new term and I propose that term as being squits, but only because I can't think of another term for diarrhoea at the moment
:)
Trotts?
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I reckon a synonym for a prostitute would fit the bill for meaning easy yet also a bit dirty or unpleasant - maybe drab, slattern, strumpet, or trollop?!
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Shark, I've thought of a question, but it's multiple choice: How would you describe Mystic Styles. A) log and shit; B) Squirts; C) Trotts; D) Trollop; E) Even shitter than the name.
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I guess we should adopt whichever is most likely to get used?
Q: are you gonna have another go?
A: I'm not getting back on that, it's a complete puddle of strumpet
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I can't (really be arsed to) find it now but at some point he said something like '8C is a ridiculous grade'
http://freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18 (http://freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18)
The point was UK grades are different. So, has this been changed at all over the years or is the rest of the world still soft?
Marra Time sit? Would Voyager sit be 8C if it was in Switzerland or Colorado?
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I can't (really be arsed to) find it now but at some point he said something like '8C is a ridiculous grade'
http://freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18 (http://freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18)
The point was UK grades are different. So, has this been changed at all over the years or is the rest of the world still soft?
Marra Time sit? Would Voyager sit be 8C if it was in Switzerland or Colorado?
Probably 9C but Ondra and Jens L. should meet a agreement. Time comparison will tell.
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Here's a question I dare you to ask - Fancy an arm wrestle Malc?
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Ok here's a question for you guys - what specifically has impressed you about Malc ? what do consider to be his biggest achievements ? And why ?
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Would be cruel .. for you.
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I heard he went to Céüse and couldn't climb anything so sika'd a load of holds in a shit cave under Cascade sector to train...
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The last question is true. Did it With Nic Conway and Cubby as they were all worried they were getting weak on the long stamina plods.
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Those problems looked desperate :lol:
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Ok here's a question for you guys - what specifically has impressed you about Malc ? what do consider to be his biggest achievements ? And why ?
The dedication to power in a secluded environment. Fucking chalking up mid crux on Fucking Hubble! This is the real deal.
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Ok here's a question for you guys - what specifically has impressed you about Malc ? what do consider to be his biggest achievements ? And why ?
For me it's his dedication to hard training, the big numbers he's achieved as a result and that he's managed to stay on top of his game for so long.
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I remember watching a couple the UK National Bouldering champs that he won, late 90's?
Anyway he was on his own. Flashed every problem, looked like he was warming up.
Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
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I'd like to know more about his 9a in Scotland. I know nothing about it.
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I can fill you in with this if you didn't know it already;
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=56373 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=56373)
Where
He's more a fan of the Gaskins way of marketing.
Is a remarkable prophecy!
https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/The_Anvil (https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/The_Anvil)
I don't think there's a vid of the route, but this gives an idea of the crag
Alan Cassidy - Metalcore 8c+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/27315396)
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Ta. Not much info there, just says it's more sustained than Blood Diamond.
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Hunger=
Do all the hard part of this (maybe about 7C?): https://vimeo.com/12187837
Then do an 8A
then do the bit at the end of the Metalcore video 7B+?
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Nice one Alan
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Ok here's a question for you guys - what specifically has impressed you about Malc ? what do consider to be his biggest achievements ? And why ?
If my memory serves and he did do the FA, Monk's Life. Having stood under that, it really pushed the boundaries.
How to maintain the discipline to work on something like that amazes me, I'm far too lazy and easily bored to work on anything for an extended period.
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Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?
Read somewhere way back that he was at some international comp where he did this one arm pull up on this really bad hold - Yuji Hirayama I think was the route setter and couldn't believe it, so he kept the hold and every strong climber he asked to try and do a one armer on it but no one else ever managed it so he called it the Malcolm smith hold. No idea where I read this now...
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Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nV7E64KGguY# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nV7E64KGguY#)
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Interesting to compare Smith with Gaskins with regards to the Monk's Life. It took Malcolm 10 years of effort and then Gaskins did it in 2 sessions. Not taking away anything from Malcolm but just goes to show that perhaps the aura of a FA can be the hardest part of doing a particular problem.
Take also the Story of 2 Worlds, which has now had a relative slew of ascents after many years of none; this might also have a lot to do with this FA effect on the difficulty of a problem
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Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?
Read somewhere way back that he was at some international comp where he did this one arm pull up on this really bad hold - Yuji Hirayama I think was the route setter and couldn't believe it, so he kept the hold and every strong climber he asked to try and do a one armer on it but no one else ever managed it so he called it the Malcolm smith hold. No idea where I read this now...
Yeah I remember reading something along these lines, I think it was an Arco comp. Don't think it was Yuji Hirayama though.
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Interesting to compare Smith with Gaskins with regards to the Monk's Life. It took Malcolm 10 years of effort and then Gaskins did it in 2 sessions. Not taking away anything from Malcolm but just goes to show that perhaps the aura of a FA can be the hardest part of doing a particular problem.
malcolm smith - monk life on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/6245846)
I didn't know Gaskins had done Monk's Life, is there any footage of that?
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He absolutely dominates it.
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Interesting to compare Smith with Gaskins with regards to the Monk's Life. It took Malcolm 10 years of effort and then Gaskins did it in 2 sessions. Not taking away anything from Malcolm but just goes to show that perhaps the aura of a FA can be the hardest part of doing a particular problem.
malcolm smith - monk life on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/6245846)
I didn't know Gaskins had done Monk's Life, is there any footage of that?
Sadly not. It was in the mags over 10 years ago. Around the time Gaskins repeated stuff like 8 Ball
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Micky Page reportedly did laps on Monk Life,
http://marksavagephotography.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/monk-life-gets-15-repeats-in-one.html (http://marksavagephotography.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/monk-life-gets-15-repeats-in-one.html)
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I remember watching a couple the UK National Bouldering champs that he won, late 90's?
Anyway he was on his own. Flashed every problem, looked like he was warming up.
Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
If i recall correctly, He came 2nd overall in the boulder world cup in 2002 (i think that was the year), marginally missing out on winning the whole thing due to poor judging
Difficult to do much better than that on the world stage :)
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Ok here's a question for you guys - what specifically has impressed you about Malc ? what do consider to be his biggest achievements ? And why ?
Most impressed by the following:
No power screams......ever
Didn't get sucked in to trying what other people were doing when down the wall.
Every hard move I've seen him do he made look piss, no monkeying around footless on buckets or showboating.
Happy to share training advice
Being able to pick up a full sheet of ply one handed by pinching it in the middle of its long edge
Monks life. Ok it's had its share of repeats, but let's face it, people know that "the move" goes now.
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It took Malcolm 10 years of effort and then Gaskins did it in 2 sessions.
I don't think it was 10 years of effort at all. I get the impression that he barely tried it for most of the time, it was just a project for that long. Then once Earl started trying it seriously he pulled his finger out.
Ok here's a question for you guys - what specifically has impressed you about Malc ?
His single minded determination.
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Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?
Read somewhere way back that he was at some international comp where he did this one arm pull up on this really bad hold - Yuji Hirayama I think was the route setter and couldn't believe it, so he kept the hold and every strong climber he asked to try and do a one armer on it but no one else ever managed it so he called it the Malcolm smith hold. No idea where I read this now...
Yeah I remember reading something along these lines, I think it was an Arco comp. Don't think it was Yuji Hirayama though.
OK great at least I didn't imagine it all then - Hans Florine?
I'd be interested to know what he thinks about the current crop of top boulderers - Woods, Robinson etc. and how far he feels things have moved on from his peak - were he seemed a cut above the rest in terms of power.
Also what motivated his return to high end sport climbing a few years ago after so many years and does he feel he reached his full potential in bouldering and sport climbing?
I remember meeting him briefly at bas cuvier 7 or 8 years ago, a friend of mine, who knew him, introduced him but I was too awestruck to speak....muttering a brief "how's it going" or something lame like that... legend.
Any time frame on this Interview?
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my memory was correct
http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_MB&cup=02_WC (http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_MB&cup=02_WC)
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Right, well i was totally wrong about that.
Memory no good, consult the oracle before posting.
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If i recall correctly, He came 2nd overall in the boulder world cup in 2002 (i think that was the year), marginally missing out on winning the whole thing due to poor judging
What was the poor judging issue?
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Yes, 2nd overall - best british male result ever? Maybe you could ask him about that year, and then also why he stopped competing (I vaguely remember reading it was because he didn't like the pressure of comps, but could be wrong.)
Does he follow the comps these days? Does he see any differences between then and now?
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Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he...?
... why he stopped competing (I vaguely remember reading it was because he didn't like the pressure of comps, but could be wrong.)
From the interview (http://freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18) that miso soup linked to a few days ago...
Why after taking part in the Bouldering World Cup did you disappear from the circuit?
I wasn't enjoying it really! Even if I got good results and I'm a kind of shy person I don't really have a competitive and exhibitionist personality to enjoy climbing in the crowd so much. I think that most of the best competitor climbers also like to stay in the show!
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What about Mark Croxall?! Won in Brum, 2005. Oh right, overall...
How many Brits have won rounds in the bouldering world cup? Andy Earl la Reunion in 2007.
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Slackers - yes, that'll be what I read years ago. But I would be interested to hear him expand on it.
T_B - yes overall! Worth stressing because it's a big achievement for a UK boulderer. He came 1st twice, podiumed 4 times and was in the top five 7 times.
http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&person=628&cat=6 (http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&person=628&cat=6)
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Sorry can't be arsed to re-read posts, but wasn't the comp where he one-armed the hold the one at Birmingham NEC that was set by Jerry, televised, and presented by Vicky Butler-Henderson? God I have such a wierd trivial memory. Worth a Google from someone who wants the info and isn't at work anyway, I can't do it / don't care.
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presented by Vicky Butler-Henderson? God I have such a wierd trivial memory.
Its a good adaptation for when your eyesight finally goes.
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now that the school room is reopening is he booking his train to Sheff with excess baggage weight for his weight belt?
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Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?
Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?
Read somewhere way back that he was at some international comp where he did this one arm pull up on this really bad hold - Yuji Hirayama I think was the route setter and couldn't believe it, so he kept the hold and every strong climber he asked to try and do a one armer on it but no one else ever managed it so he called it the Malcolm smith hold. No idea where I read this now...
Yeah I remember reading something along these lines, I think it was an Arco comp. Don't think it was Yuji Hirayama though.
OK great at least I didn't imagine it all then - Hans Florine?
I'd be interested to know what he thinks about the current crop of top boulderers - Woods, Robinson etc. and how far he feels things have moved on from his peak - were he seemed a cut above the rest in terms of power.
Also what motivated his return to high end sport climbing a few years ago after so many years and does he feel he reached his full potential in bouldering and sport climbing?
I remember meeting him briefly at bas cuvier 7 or 8 years ago, a friend of mine, who knew him, introduced him but I was too awestruck to speak....muttering a brief "how's it going" or something lame like that... legend.
Any time frame on this Interview?
Had a google with no joy. Did find this (https://www.planetfear.com/articles/What_Happened_to_the_Young_Ones_Malcolm_Smith_100.html) however, which is quite interesting.
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Sorry can't be arsed to re-read posts, but wasn't the comp where he one-armed the hold the one at Birmingham NEC that was set by Jerry, televised, and presented by Vicky Butler-Henderson? God I have such a wierd trivial memory. Worth a Google from someone who wants the info and isn't at work anyway, I can't do it / don't care.
I was sat on about the fifth row in front of him for this. I remember as clear as day him crimping the join between panels on an overlap on one problem because he seemed to prefer that to the hold on offer.
I frequently try to emulate this. Note to self - you are not Malc. :'(
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I remember that Vicky bird interviewing Moffatt
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(https://31.media.tumblr.com/3d21a8a844f4e024c63b0c0d5c9b8647/tumblr_n2e7t278KD1tun57jo1_r1_400.png)
Not a mile off
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With heresay of being to weak to walk to the bottom of The Tor, how extreme did his dieting get in order to reach his optimum climbing strength and ultimate fighting weight? I'm sure that sports nutrition of the nineties was far more extreme than todays.
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(https://31.media.tumblr.com/3d21a8a844f4e024c63b0c0d5c9b8647/tumblr_n2e7t278KD1tun57jo1_r1_400.png)
Not a mile off
Fucking brilliant!
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Thinking about it, I can think of at least three examples of people other than Malc doing a one armer in a comp.
Maybe not such a big deal? (One of them was Stuart Little of this parish. Go on, wad him. I saw it. Malc won BTW)
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The point was the hold he did it on. I read the story too (also fairly sure it wasn't Yuji, possible Hans) and if memory serves a lot of pro climbers haven't been able to hang the hold let alone do a one armer on it.
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Q. Is Malcolm comfortable with being called a legend?
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With heresay of being to weak to walk to the bottom of The Tor,
Where did this come from btw? It's bollocks (I thought dave was joking earlier in the thread).
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Stone Love (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYPf5t28bKs#ws)
Always worth a re-post
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Was he on speed when he did Hubble?
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With heresay of being to weak to walk to the bottom of The Tor,
Where did this come from btw? It's bollocks (I thought dave was joking earlier in the thread).
This gets trotted out every few years. I first heard it about soloist extraordinaire Phil Davidson having to be carried from his car to some crag in The Pass.
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What about Mark Croxall?! Won in Brum, 2005. Oh right, overall...
How many Brits have won rounds in the bouldering world cup? Andy Earl la Reunion in 2007.
Only the 3 golds that have been mentioned although I suspect that Shauna will get one this year.
The controversy was whether Christian Core managed to hold the finish hold or whether he fell off before really holding it. That decided the World Cup that year.
Italian climber at an Italian WC with an Italian judge. No possibility of bias there then.
(I've seen a video of the incident at an IFSC Judge's meeting, 50% said held, 50% said not, I was in the latter camp)
So Shark, ask Malc whether he saw the incident.
And ask him whether he realised what Jerry was doing at the NIA 2001 comp when he brushed the holds for Malc in sequence. No bias there either then ;)
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Malc will be at the CWIF tomorrow
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Q. Is Malcolm comfortable with being called a legend?
I can answer that :smartass:
"Not going to spare your blushes -"Malcolm Smith Climbing Legend" would sum it up for me"
"legend" is that all, i want more!! haha, no that's very flattering thanks.
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The point was the hold he did it on. I read the story too (also fairly sure it wasn't Yuji, possible Hans) and if memory serves a lot of pro climbers haven't been able to hang the hold let alone do a one armer on it.
Yea this is definitely the same story I was thinking of. Can't think where I read it - maybe an old OTE?- basically Malcolm misread a sequence but rather than falling off he did this one-armer on a really bad hold which left the route setters aghast and no one else was able to come close to performing the same feat, despite retaining the hold as a challenge Not sure where I got Yuli or Hans from but pretty sure it was someone well know internationally who set the route....that's as much as I can recall... an urban myth maybe but if not a great story.
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Malc will be at the CWIF tomorrow
Competing?
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Malc will be at the CWIF tomorrow
Competing?
i think i seem to remember seeing him on the qualifier list, yes
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Does he ever get mistaken for the guy off Soccer Am (Max Rushden) ?
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With hearsay of being to weak to walk to the bottom of The Tor,
Where did this come from btw? It's bollocks (I thought dave was joking earlier in the thread).
That was a bit tongue in cheek relating to the previous comment. However having said that, I can recall belaying a friend of Malc's (who followed a similar diet at the time and also had a replica of Hubble in his cellar) fainting whilst trying Revelations, greatly attributive to a strict diet (weight loss / low body fat) and v strong coffee (muscle recruitment). It maybe hearsay but not outside the boundary of possibilities, hence the interest.
Sports nutrition has moved on bucket loads since the 90's.
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(https://31.media.tumblr.com/3d21a8a844f4e024c63b0c0d5c9b8647/tumblr_n2e7t278KD1tun57jo1_r1_400.png)
Not a mile off
Mlac looks like Bob Dylan in tha pic.
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Nice one for getting the interview.
What would malc say his top 5 training principals are?
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Question for Shark: who are you going to interview when you run out of people who have climbed Hubble?
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And ask him whether he realised what Jerry was doing at the NIA 2001 comp when he brushed the holds for Malc in sequence. No bias there either then ;)
Also ask him if he remembers the problem judge preventing him using a non-approved starting sequence before he actually pulled-on ;o)
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I'm sure Smith commented back in the day on lack of sponsorship/funding. I'd be interested to hear how this affected his motivation and ability to reach his potential.
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Question for Shark: who are you going to interview when you run out of people who have climbed Hubble?
Ondra?
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Nice one for getting the interview.
What would malc say his top 5 training principals are?
1. Stay front on
2. Stay front on
3. Stay front on
4. Stay front on
5. Stay front on
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Would he have climbed harder if he'd just used a drop knee?
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Malcolm was living with Gresham in Sharrow at the time he did Hubble.... I remember going round three times a week to train on their board.
He was basically living on coffee and Neil told me the day he did Hubble he was so fucked he could barely walk back to the car..... Although Neil also said I tried to drive my Saab up to the Northen Corries....
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https://www.facebook.com/#!/stonesmithholds/photos/a.1407781289491426.1073741828.1391564787779743/1408415579427997/?type=1&theater (https://www.facebook.com/#!/stonesmithholds/photos/a.1407781289491426.1073741828.1391564787779743/1408415579427997/?type=1&theater)
fb link, hope it works
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https://www.facebook.com/#!/stonesmithholds/photos/a.1407781289491426.1073741828.1391564787779743/1408415579427997/?type=1&theater (https://www.facebook.com/#!/stonesmithholds/photos/a.1407781289491426.1073741828.1391564787779743/1408415579427997/?type=1&theater)
fb link, hope it works
Stonesmith Holds on Twitter (https://twitter.com/StonesmithHolds)
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Has the interview been done? Waiting for editing?
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Has the interview been done? Waiting for editing?
Sorry, its going to be a bit of a wait.
The plan is that Malc and Chris Houston who is doing the film are down the weekend of the 3rd/4th May to Sheffield for the interview and to do some climbing.
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Stone Smith Holds: Climbing holds designed, carved and cast by Malcolm Smith on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/84421918)
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I thought Malc made the molds just by squeezing rock with his hands...
P.s. Subtitles anyone? I only understood "dad", "7c+", and "training".
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Okay, so we're in the Stonesmith carving workshop at the back of TCA. 13-17 sec
Err. I've done business with TCA making climbing holds, which is something I'm really exciting to be doing. 18-23 sec
Right, so I started climbing in 88' with my dad, he's been climbing since the late 70's. So straight away I could only really climb at weekends, because I didn't really have access to rock in Dunbar during the week. I ended up doing lots of training, and built my first wall in 1990, I think it was. That was a wooden board in my bed room, the walls of my bedroom were overhanging, so it was pretty easy just to screw plywood on to the walls, and then stuff loads of wooden holds on. And then straight away I was really obsessed by training, and trying to get stronger. 39-70 sec
I started in 1990, sorry, about 88', and did my first 7c+ was in 1990. Then 8b in 91, and the second ascent of Hubble at Ravens(sic) Tor in 92'. Which again, I think Ben gave 8c+ but I think now it's been upgraded to 9a, so that was one of the world's first 9a's. 70-90 sec
So I've made holds for probably, 20 years, err, to begin with just out of wood for my wooden board in Dunbar. I also experimented with some resin ones ten years ago, that's the first time I actually tried to make cast resin holds and go into the business of doing it, so that was pretty exciting. I really enjoyed the carving process. 108-126 sec
(Pointing) That's polyurethane foam, so you get different grades of that, and that's what where all the texture from the holds comes, you get little pits in the foam. This is quite a fine grained one, so you end up with quite a fine... texture. 131-141 sec
Yeah, it doesn't take long to get the basic outline, but then with something like this, quite a slopey hold, there's a lot of sanding afterwards, because obviously you want all the lines to be nice and smooth. 144-151 sec
Okay, so at the moment we've got about 180 holds, divided into 7 ranges, each range has got a different feel and look to it. But I want to quickly expand the number of holds in each range, bigger volumes and fingerboards and all sorts of training aids hopefully. 172-187 sec
Hopefully that's of some use!
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From starting climbing to climbing Hubble four years later is nuts..
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Everything is made of Malcolm's training but people forget that his natural ability was outrageous and not just strength wise either. His ease of movement and precision are things you can't teach or train. Or perhaps you can try to in some ways, but nobody was teaching or training anyone back then, we just learned off each other.
The advances in training and coaching and the number of people doing so prove the point. If it was all down to trying hard and learning then where are all the Malc clones?
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Think all the best peeps have that combination of great natural ability and unflappable motivation to train and climb. Looking forward to the Malc interview. He is up there with the best in my book.
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Which book is that? "The Best" by S.Hurt.
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Yes, that's right. Its an anthology of my work. It includes my infamous unpublished article about John Gaskins' addiction to social media - penned under my nom de plume, Sandy Jam.
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Anyone know what this is about? - https://www.facebook.com/stonesmithholds/posts/1421898661413022 (https://www.facebook.com/stonesmithholds/posts/1421898661413022)
Also new blog there by Malcolm on the site.
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Anyone know what this is about? - https://www.facebook.com/stonesmithholds/posts/1421898661413022 (https://www.facebook.com/stonesmithholds/posts/1421898661413022)
Err, have you read this thread from the start? If not it should explain the pictures.
Also new blog there by Malcolm on the site.
Malc's blog (http://stonesmithholds.com/malcs-blog/) on the Stonesmith Holds (http://stonesmithholds.com/) site.
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Yup, some of it, I suppose what I should have asked was whether the post and photos on FB were in relation to the topic of this thread - sorry...
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Looks like shark is behind the camera in one of the shots so my guess would be yes.
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Yup, some of it, I suppose what I should have asked was whether the post and photos on FB were in relation to the topic of this thread - sorry...
Looks like shark is behind the camera in one of the shots so my guess would be yes.
Yes. Had a great weekend.
Malc, Chris Houston (who is doing the film) and Johnny Bean came down on Friday night and stopped at mine. Ben kindly let us use the New Schoolroom (which incidentally is going to be an amazing facility) on Saturday morning for the interview. Malc had a play on the old boards and I also had a short interview with Ben about Malc. We then went to Raven Tor for a bit of bouldering. Malc dropped some holds off at the Works and we all went for a meal at East West on Abbeydale Road which is also recommended. Then a few more jars at the Red Lion with Mark Hundleby and Rob Barker. On Sunday morning Steve Mac came round for some more wordage. Team Glasgow then left for the Bowderstone but ended up going to a climbing wall.
Chris is going to compile the interview and this and other climbing footage. Maybe there will be a long and short version. I'll keep you posted on a release date.
Key things:
Malc is a thoroughly nice modest guy
He loves his wheat beer
He confirmed Malc's one armer was done
(http://i.imgur.com/g3rrzlG.jpg)
And here he is cruising Powerband
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVyQ2_Gs7o4# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVyQ2_Gs7o4#)
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sounds better than most weekends :great:
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Did he pull on any of the "old school" problems in the new school? If so, which ones and what did he think?
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Did he pull on any of the "old school" problems in the new school? If so, which ones and what did he think?
He found them hard. I think he did a 7A+. There should be some golden footage of him and Ben working out where a few of the classic ones went. Sorry I don't remember the names.
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But did he get home ok? Fantastic, really looking fwd to this shark. But don't tell anybody I said that
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He found them hard. I think he did a 7A+. There should be some golden footage of him and Ben working out where a few of the classic ones went. Sorry I don't remember the names.
Looking at social media Ben got more than a little bit confused!
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But did he get home ok? Fantastic, really looking fwd to this shark. But don't tell anybody I said that
Hope I asked the right stuff..,the weight of expectation can be a bit overwhelming TBH
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I expect nothing less than it being terrible, but in a good way!
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Malcolm Smith Climbing Legend Teaser on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/97874945)
Yeah, Malc Smith teaser, yeah :-[
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"coming soon" - how flipping soon?
Looks great.
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"coming soon" - how flipping soon?
Still some more stuff to shoot so end of July maybe ?
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Awesome, just a small typo, A Monk's Life FA was done in 2003 not 1993, just to prevent it going in the final version :)
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Awesome, just a small typo, A Monk's Life FA was done in 2003 not 1993, just to prevent it going in the final version :)
Cheers Ted - I'll let Chris know.
I've already mentioned the Steve MacClure (sic) typo
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Brilliant!!!
:dance1:
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And here he is cruising Powerband
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVyQ2_Gs7o4# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVyQ2_Gs7o4#)
Shark if you're filming something on your phone can you turn it landscape please.
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And everyone else also take note of this
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:offtopic: Recent updates to the Camera application on Android have a gentle reminder to rotate your phone to landscape when you select video mode if you're holding it in portrait. :offtopic:
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Any news??
Anything..... :'( :'(
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Come on then
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Bump. :bounce:
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Sorry. No idea.
I've messaged Chris for an update.
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He's negotiationg terms with Epic TV.
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He's negotiationg terms with Epic TV.
Sounds like he needs Solper...
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Bump again. I'm :bounce:
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Chris Houston (whose project it is) passes his apologies. Current ETA is end of Oct
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Chris Houston (whose project it is) passes his apologies. Current ETA is end of Oct
is that 2014?
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:whistle: Monthly bump!
Is there any videos of that strong Scottish youth knocking around to pass the time?
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ROFL!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrqGwhU0_Iw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrqGwhU0_Iw#)
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Although I don't think that was what Stubbs was talking about, it's always amusing to see Patta falling off despite being picked up and held onto the rock.
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Is there any videos of that strong Scottish youth knocking around to pass the time?
No, I haven't filmed myself that much lately. ;)
Try here instead
http://vimeo.com/user18385811 (http://vimeo.com/user18385811)
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The youth relies on being caught sending in the background of local doggers videos. They are notoriously hard to track down..
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I noted on the SA climbing forum there was a search for footage of his big ticks in rocklands, seeing he never bothered filming them himself.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrqGwhU0_Iw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrqGwhU0_Iw#)
Is this from Stone Love or something?
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Yep it's l'appel direct at cresciano
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Yep it's l'appel direct at cresciano
Cheers.
Got a hold of stone love and watched it this evening, its been awhile! Forgot how sulky Ben and Jerry were in this one.
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10574375_1509179319351622_7280311818488524627_n.jpg?oh=857a7b286500714387d94c7dcd7b4e14&oe=5519ABAA&__gda__=1424812026_7043a14ea8f24c73ce0281be8c3e1d03)
Does that show up? Malc posted it to the Stonesmith FB page.
Also saw on fb a few days ago that work on the vid was restarted and hopefully will be out before christmas...
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Those are some pretty long training session!
BW + 15kg - so that's the trick! :P
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http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vCFLB0lLAl8 (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vCFLB0lLAl8)
I am sure that this is in thread somewhere, but still really inspiring.
Sure that when the long awaited interview comes out it will be just as good!
:strongbench:
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All I want for Christmas.. ..is something to watch instead of the Queen's speech.
And some sprouts.
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I've had a fondle of Malc's 'Wood Series - training range' and they seem to be really good.
They're basic training shapes similar to a lot of the old wooden school holds but finessed to remove the Dunbar pinch. They also have an ultra-fine texture too (unlike the other SS holds!).
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Aye I think they have a single problem using them at TCA, much much better texture than the other SS holds.
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Monthly bump due to complete lack of word for a while.
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Chris says he's aiming to complete for March for Sheffield Film Festival.
Sorry.
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is that 2014 2015?
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.. and, does that mean we now have to go to Shaff to see it? :no:
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is that 2014 2015?
You know its 2015 now?
Yes its disappointing.
Its Chris' personal project/hobby that he is fitting in around his other commitments rather than him being a full time film-maker and a commercial venture.
I'm sure he knows how much everyone wants to see this - not least because I keep nagging him.
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I thought it was just going to be an interview with similar production value to your previous efforts?
Which were adequate for just a straight interview.
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I think it's going to be straight audio, but animated video. Bit like what they did with that Karl Pilkington podcast.
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I thought it was just going to be an interview with similar production value to your previous efforts?
Which were adequate for just a straight interview.
The background is that I approached Malc with a view to doing just that when I heard he was coming down to CWIF but he had already agreed to do a more ambitious documentary with Chris using old and new climbing footage so I got in touch with Chris and we ended up with me interviewing Malc at the School and then Steve Mac at my place for material that he can incorporate in the film.
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Well that explains it, from reading peoples comments on this thread I wasn't the only one who misunderstood what we are getting.
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Well that explains it, from reading peoples comments on this thread I wasn't the only one who misunderstood what we are getting.
You make it sound like I have been misleading you and others.
In the original post for this thread:
Chris Houston is putting together a feature length film together with old and new climbing footage and is kind enough to let me do the interview 8).
The working title is: "Malcolm Smith Climbing Legend"
Malc and Chris will be coming down at the end of April...
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Alright, question, and this seems as good a place as any, but where can I see the famous photo of Malc chalking up on the crux of Hubble? I've tried google but got nowhere...
Cheers
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Not the famous undercut photo i'm afraid...
(http://i58.tinypic.com/v2uy3l.jpg)
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Cool pic thanks anyway. I've not been had have I? The pic does exist? Google appears to be broken on this one you just get 100 hits of this forum with the chap with the Heinz Zak sig....surprised it's not in the feats of strength thread cod surely it's an unrepeated feat of considerable waddage?!
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Chris says he's aiming to complete for March for Sheffield Film Festival.
Sorry.
Anyone know if anything regarding this is being shown at Shaff?
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Its beginning to move into the realms of that county bouldering film .....
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Maybe they were trying to include some footage of Gaskins for perspective.
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He's like a vampire apparently and won't appear on film, any previous footage of him is actually hand drawn.
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Ah, that explains it then. I thought he might have just been making stuff up and ruining the history of British climbing. Good to be proved wrong.
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Sooooo, the video?
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Yes its all a bit of a mess. Malc has contacted me and is very apologetic about the delay. In deference to his wishes I am going to lock this thread at least for the time being and have spit the recent banter which is partly my fault onto another thread.
Sorry :-[