UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Nigel on November 20, 2009, 07:05:13 pm
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Just to let all the chuffers out there know, I've been doing a bit of cleaning in the Rivelin Quarries of late and it seems like this Sunday might be a good time for others to share the quality - forecast is for torrential rain tomorrow followed by a nice day on Sunday, unfortunately with very high winds. Perfect for the quarries! Why get blown about like a rag doll on the natural edges when you can luxuriate in a sheltered sun trap 10 mins from Sheffield on the finest technical challenges on quarried grit? Routes now clean and ready for your ascents are:
Earthboots **E6 6c
Jack The Groove **E6 6c
That's My Lot ***E8 7a/highball 7c???
Portnoy's Complaint ** E2 5b
Flex ***E6 6c
Final Overthrow Of The Green Devil **E5 6b
Feet Neat **E5 6c
Teddy Bear's Picnic **E4 6b
The Bear Necessities **E5 6b
Paddington **E4 6a
Along with a host of other stuff already clean. As a bonus I've cleaned a project arete above the Font 7a Glom Onto which I can't do but will go at E7 7a-ish to someone tall and handsome.
To sweeten the pill if all goes to plan I should be there first thing to put chalk on everything, I'll also bring my 7 pads for people to use. I'll also probably leave the gear in Earthboots all day while I seige it, so others can try the ground up. I'll also dish out sequence knowledge for this, plus a tentative sequence on That's My Lot from a play on a rope today. If we pad this out well and we get good nick perhaps a hero could get it ground up? Ned/Dan/Ryan are you out there?
P.S. Please can I request that this thread does not contain any mention of the now passe N**'* W***, I think we've heard enough, plus this is a purely routes thread. I'm happy for people to wax lyrical about That's My Lot though - one of THE best climbs I've ever tried. An outrageous and inspired ascent from Nik, cruelly underrated. Hopefully this will change.
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Good work!
I'll see if I can sort a partner for Sunday. Had a play on Flex a while ago, so keen to get back on that.
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I am weirdly going to be in Sheffield on Sunday so may pop in to the quarries to say hello. Whats the current parking situation, last time I drove past the pub was for sale so I'm guessing the roadside convenience is gone.
Good effort on cleaning, if I do call in I'll give you my beta for That's My Lot. I'll have my two year old son in tow though so won't be climbing. Anyway if you see a short scruffy bespectacled chimp like creature leading a small child through the tree's do say hello.
Seriously people should go here, I know I bang this drum a lot but take the opportunity and get on these truly brilliant routes while they are clean.
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Earthboots **E6 6c
To sweeten the pill if all goes to plan I should be there first thing to put chalk on everything, I'll also bring my 7 pads for people to use. I'll also probably leave the gear in Earthboots all day while I seige it, so others can try the ground up. I'll also dish out sequence knowledge for this.....
Good work for cleaning and enthusiasm.
I thought Earthboots was E7 7a - It (like Niks wall) has shut down some pretty notable suitors. Not sure about this 7 pads pre-geared seige open day, although I guess the style is out in the open. Will this be third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh.....ascents?
Would be good to see That's my lot on video if anyone does do it - I hear it's a 'second gen move.'
;D
Have a good day.
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Whats the current parking situation, last time I drove past the pub was for sale so I'm guessing the roadside convenience is gone.
Park in front of the former pub as before, spaces are still there. Enough for about 6-8 vehicles? Have PM'd you regarding sequences.
I thought Earthboots was E7 7a - It (like Niks wall) has shut down some pretty notable suitors. Not sure about this 7 pads pre-geared seige open day, although I guess the style is out in the open. Will this be third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh.....ascents?
You're probably right about it being 7a. Regarding style, I don't have an issue with leaving the gear in a route for others to enjoy. Hopefully it will see that many ascents eh?!
Fingers crossed for the weather!
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Just a quickie to let interested parties know that I put a patio landing beneath That's My Lot this afternoon. It is constructed of fallen birch logs that I found about the quarry floor and has built up the dip between the fallen tree and the rising ground to create a flat platform for pads. The idea is to allow this to be padded out more effectively as a highball rather than an ankle breaker - it will still be very ballsy though! Hopefully we'll get to try it out! If not then its there for future use. On the other hand if AndiT wants to deconstruct it it shouldn't take long, it only took an hour to build. ;)
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Have you got the Upvc double gazing in yet?
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Which guide are the quarries in ? The Eastern grit guide i ve got only contains info on the edge itself.... Plus are the harder routes pretty new and not in any guide yet? Well done on all the cleaning BTW, takes some doing!
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Get yourself a decent guidebook
(http://www.outside.co.uk/images/BK07burbmills.jpg) (http://www.outside.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/5027||~@c~Peak~District~@b|0|user|1,0,0,1|14|)
4. Earthboots **E6 6c
5. Jack The Groove **E6 6c
14. That's My Lot ***E8 7a/highball 7c???
27. Portnoy's Complaint ** E2 5b
28. Flex ***E6 6c
29. Final Overthrow Of The Green Devil **E5 6b
41. Feet Neat **E5 6c
43. Teddy Bear's Picnic **E4 6b
46. The Bear Necessities **E5 6b
47. Paddington **E4 6a
It's got all the routes!
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I met Nigel out there today (in the rain) and surveyed his patio-ing efforts. And I'd say nice one Nige. The landing has been vastly improved and a team with several big mats and spotters could highball this now I think (ground up perhaps?). Apparently after I left the patio was further developed, utilising some neanderthal regression, and that's all good. This is, if I do say so myself, one of the stand out lines on quarried grit and it has stood unrepeated and pretty much un-attempted for 10 years at a crag with a short walk-in a few miles from Sheffield, it's even on a bus route FFS! If this improvement to the landing means more people attempt the line then brilliant. I doubt they'd be ticking a three star E8, but they'd certainly get a three star Font 7-something-ish tick, and that's a good thing. Is it bad that the landing is patio-ed. IMHO no, the work can easily be reversed should the prevailing ethic of the day dictate it and in it's current state it fits quite nicely in the highball-able grit pseudo-route bracket which appears to be currently in vogue. In fact it probably makes more sense as such rather than as a short bouldery route which gets E8 due to a hideous landing.
So bravo to Nige for promoting the place and making efforts to raise interest. I'm almost tempted to wad him again for his efforts, what the hell I think I will.
P.S. I'm still taking the E8 tick OK?
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nice one Nigel, I am extremely keen to go check some of that out. T'as just got to stop raining for more than five minutes first!
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this is really great stuff. I was really surprised how good the quarry was when I went down for the first time a few weeks ago and now some spring cleaning. I shall definitely be making a return trip sometime this winter. Well done!
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I thought E was for onsight Nik?
Yesterday Nige was toproping this... above a patio! The worst of both worlds?
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I wasn't toproping, its even worse than that - I was abbing it looking for placements for my forthcoming first aided ascent. I found a placement for a tiny tiny copperhead (cast from a scaled up version of dense's head) and an exotic stacked bird beak arrangement (hoopoe cammed against chiff chaff).
Anyway, should be at the crag in about an hour, see you there?
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Well done Nige. Like Highrepute i was well impressed by this crag. As Drew said it's in the Burbage guide and, as I had never visited to climb there, I was really impressed by the job Paul Harrison and Simmo did on the write up on this obscure venue. Would love to go back and try some things in the last quarry.
Let's keep the RQ momentum a-rolling.
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Yesterday Nige was toproping this... above a patio! The worst of both worlds?
Or Nigel graciously sacrificing the possibility of his ground up ascent, so harvesting the beta for a subsequent flurry of ground-up ascents by others. :devangel:
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No, I think he built the patio cos he doesn't trust his top-rope. Its really poor style.
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I thought E was for onsight Nik?
Oh lordy, lets not get sidelined down that particular alley of debate. I'd rather we stay on the worthy topic the thread started with.(But yeah you do have a point, I should have qualified that with "headpoint").
As for Nigels top-roping above patio antics I assumed the patio was a belay platform, I've seen some terrible ankle twists from belaying on uneven ground.
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But he was self-belaying! Ethics have really hit a new low here.
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I wasn't aware of that, frankly I'm outraged, chunter, mutter, grumble...
Good job you were there to restore the ethical balance junior woodsman Brown.
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Has this potentially interesting and inspiring thread taken a sharp detour down a tedious one-way street?
Oh well.
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Fair point Grimer, I'll shut up now.
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Well I was going to Rivelin, but its started raining. This is virtual crag banter. I suppose Grimer is poe-faced and silent at the virtual crag.
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Although Nige's theoretical treehouse-of-horror homobelay prussikpoint ascent is a pressing issue I'm personally more concerned that he's not set up a eastern bloc style 4-bit colour website documenting these routes, as is the prevailing ethic of the crag.
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:lol:
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Ah - I get it now :)
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You thought I was serious? Jeez, I need to rethink my posting style lest I become a parody of myself.
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I'm not going to dignify the above with too much of a response, except to say that for all his bluster Johnny "climbing equivalent of a goal-hanger" Brown kept his mouth shut while I had a go on a rope, as he was too busy making cheat notes for another of his "look at me I used every trick in the book except a top-rope" so called ethically pure ground ups. I think I even saw him using a kinaesthetic dictaphone.
I went back today but it rained. I did clean up another project though. Further cleaning/patio progress now requires the lend of a chainsaw - anyone?
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Well it happened - a fine afternoon today saw a powerful team resembling a climbing version of Britain's Got Talent (plus myself) sieging That's My Lot ground up above about 15 pads (except myself - I've tried it on a rope). After about three hours Mr Ryan Pasquill Esq did the deed and nailed the second ascent in fine style. BRAVO 8) 8) Several others looked close so hopefully it should get more repeats soon.
Consensus seemed to be that this was a fantastic climb, and that it was fine as a highball (it saw numerous falls from a hand in the break). No consensus on the grade I'm afraid Nik as it wasn't discussed, however my opinion would be highball Font 7b+. The sequence employed was a fair bit more controlled than the running jump, roughly what I described in my pm to you.
Thanks go to team patio (me, Johnny Brown, Bonjoy, Carlisle Slapper, Ned, some birch logs, assorted boulders, a B&Q bowsaw, maul/rock, adze/rock, a massive axe). Hopefull JB will supply some nice pics?
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Brilliant, nice one Nigel (and Ry of course). Did anybody try my technique? I'm not surprised by the apparently savage downgrade, I think without the nice patio it would still feel a bit spicy, non?
Pics please JB.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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7b+, right...! Is anyone downstarring it tho?? ;)
Exciting news though...
Anyone try Nik's other classic errr problem there??
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Quite a couple of contrasting days for Ry. Coming so close to Raven tor 8c's to ground upping grit E8's/highballs. What a guy.
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Brilliant, nice one Nigel (and Ry of course). Did anybody try my technique? I'm not surprised by the apparently savage downgrade, I think without the nice patio it would still feel a bit spicy, non?
Pics please JB.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
No nobody tried our technique. There was widespread dismay at that sequence! Very very impressive stuff. :o I don't think it is a savage downgrade really, with the landing as was and no pads it would probably warrant E8 for the hypothetical onsight, it would indeed be terrifing and a guaranteed injury! With the new set-up its a totall different ballgame. And Nik/Fiend, Font 7b+ is just my guess, this still makes it very hard for a grit route, there aren't many harder and in that style i.e. slabby laybacking it is probably top of the class. That was JB's take anyway. It saw off about 100 goes from pretty much the cream of ground up highballing, so yes its hard.
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You silver tongued charmer Nigel, I'm blushing :-[
Anyway it's brilliant it's getting some attention, I'm really made up by this. Especially as it didn't go down without a fight. Hopefully a few more repeats shortly...
Did you get on Earthboots? How did that go?
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A team like that doesn't layback a 7B+ for three hours with only one summit. 7C+
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Well it happened - a fine afternoon today saw a powerful team... ...sieging That's My Lot ground up above about 15 pads...
Thanks go to team patio (me, Johnny Brown, Bonjoy, Carlisle Slapper, Ned...
Haven't you all got jobs to go to....? ;)
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Not when there's uk7b laybacking to get amongst...
I'd just like to reiterate Font 7b+
into It saw off about 100 goes from pretty much the cream of ground up highballing
doesn't go. I'd say 8a, although it doesn't feel 8a, you can't do it either. And Ryan lanked it...
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Almost had to + you again there for use of UK 7b.
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Haven't you all got jobs to go to....? ;)
Yes, I had to take half a days holiday, I left work at 12:00 to get out there!
In the light of JB's opinion I'll upgrade my estimate to 7c. I do feel that if the only really hard move (the one to the break) was at ground level then you would probably agree with that. I'm probably biased by my go from the comfort of a rope so I suppose its a question of whether you factor height in? Anyway, like I said no consensus developed as it wasn't discussed so if we say 7c-8a and the hardest arete layback on grit will that do? There's no point asking Ryan!
Nik, no I didn't try Earthboots, we were all trying TML for 3 hours. Literally!
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I see where you're coming from, but I'll say again what I said yesterday. If that's 7c, we just need to go back with a stronger team. Who do you suggest?
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downgrading is the new overgrading :-\
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Actually I take it back. Its 7c until Tidy John's had a go.
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Actually I take it back. Its 7c until Tidy John's had a go.
Tidy John would walk it.
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Who is Tidy John?
UK 7b, this thread gets better and better...
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Some lovely pictures on Logs' Blong Nik - I think he likes it, and you. :-* ;) 8)
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So is the original start still an unrepeated 8b boulder problem?
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Some lovely pictures on Logs' Blong Nik - I think he likes it, and you. :-* ;) 8)
I assumed everybody liked me?
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So is the original start still an unrepeated 8b boulder problem?
Careful Wallis, or you'll remind me about another unrepeated boulder problem I can harp on about...
Is this the end of my relentless Rivelin mutterings? That makes me a bit sad...
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There's always Denham....
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I got nowhere on it so take my opinion with as much salt as you want, but I reckon no easier than 7c+. Based somewhat on how it felt, but more significantly on the speculation that if you were to get the same team to conduct a three hour siege on any other problem of less than 7c+ in the peak, they would almost certainly come away with more than one ascent. Also, judging by the effort it took Ryan to do Toy Boy yesterday, which is another reachy, smeary 7c+, he clearly found TML considerably harder.
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Slabs, aretes, 8c+ overhanging limestone. The boys on fire.......
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Slabs, aretes, 8c+ overhanging limestone. The boys on fire.......
Whats he done in the cave though? ;)
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Hmmm, I'm hesitant to make specific comments on the grading of TML after all it was 10 years ago and I can hardly be said to be impartial but here goes (oh and I will probably have to at some point mention a problem that I have been specifically requested not to mention but hey-ho)...
All I'll say is that if TML is 7C+/8A then NW must be at least 8B which would make Chas Cooper a serious underground beast-wad. Bear in mind TML took me a day, NW took me the rest of that season.
Anyway back to Ry, he's going well right now isn't he :jaw: (almost as good as Stevie ;))
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(oh and I will probably have to at some point mention a problem that I have been specifically requested not to mention but hey-ho)
Did you even try to resist ;)
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All I'll say is that if TML is 7C+/8A then NW must be at least 8B which would make Chas Cooper a serious underground beast-wad. Bear in mind TML took me a day, NW took me the rest of that season.
I doubt anyone will be disagreeing with the notion that “the-problem-which-shall-not-be-mentioned” is undergraded at 8a. Does anyone have a hand written copy of Chaz Cooper’s thoughts on the subject?
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I have an image of Chas as an 1830's dandy riding in a horse drawn carriage to a variety of crags, dispatching test-pieces with ease then riding back to his country retreat to write letters to Panton on parchment with quill and ink by candle-light before venturing out to the streets and lanes of old London town under the cover of night looking for temptresses and orange sellers to eviscerate...
I hope it's true (apart from the murder bit). Somebody must know this uber-wad???
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Does anyone have a hand written copy of Chaz Cooper’s thoughts on the subject?
Yes. Ok, word for word:
"As for Nik's Wall, I had no idea that it was unrepeated. I just wanted to climb somewhere I hadn't been before and found Nik's Wall suited my style, so I cannot remember the sequence, sorry."
But this thread is for other rivelin stuff. Hopefully JB won't mind if I post two pics from his blog - I think this problem/route looks amazing! Great shots also.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_XWhPCEqXDnc/Sw_cIm6ieNI/AAAAAAAAAHc/jwBszO1n5Ao/s1600/mylot-1.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_XWhPCEqXDnc/Sw_cO8Eh0KI/AAAAAAAAAHs/jTOHKXLpNrc/s1600/mylot-2.jpg)
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Nice!
:)
Did anyone do the E1 6a slab to the left of this, the technical highpoint of my visit to Rivelin Quarry?
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Where's the E1 6a bit? We did the arete to the left, which looks easy but isn't. At all. E3 6b?
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That's Sex Drive, probably worth E4 for a matless solo I thought, E3 is with side runners.
I think there's 3 routes squeezed in between this and Piglet (Piglet is the corner left of TML), if I remember correctly the left hand line of the trio is E1 6a and, if memory serves, is a little eliminate due to its proximity to the central (easier, HVS?) line. All of this is from memory so may be wrong.
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Yes, that's the one. Eliminate but desperate. The crux is what I imagine the crux of some unrepeated Berzins' E7 6b on some dark north-facing lakeland crag would feel.
Worth doing. The E1 that is.
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Yes, that's the one. Eliminate but desperate. The crux is what I imagine the crux of some unrepeated Berzins' E7 6b on some dark north-facing lakeland crag would feel.
Nice comparison, lol.
I've lead the E1 up the middle, it's quite good, fiddly pro though, not really "HVS?" ;)
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Right, rather than starting a new thread I thought I'd keep the psyche in one place...
As of this weekend-
Chimp B & Glom Onto are cleaned (thanks to Toby W). Both great problems, Glom Onto more like 6C if Chimp B is 7A
I did Jack the Groove which was fairly clean anyway (retro thanks for Nige) then cleaned the moss off Earthboots
Best way to get to these seems to be walking all the way along the road past the bend then straight up just before a nice house. I wasted ages bashing through the woods.
205Chris cleaned Flex about a year ago so that might still be in reasonable nick
awesome crag but wait for a cloud
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Right, rather than starting a new thread I thought I'd keep the psyche in one place...
As of this weekend-
Chimp B & Glom Onto are cleaned (thanks to Toby W). Both great problems, Glom Onto more like 6C if Chimp B is 7A
I did Jack the Groove which was fairly clean anyway (retro thanks to Nige) then cleaned the moss off Earthboots
Best way to get to these seems to be walking all the way along the road past the bend then straight up just before a nice house. I wasted ages bashing through the woods.
205Chris cleaned Flex about a year ago so that might still be in reasonable nick
awesome crag but wait for a cloud
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205Chris cleaned Flex about a year ago so that might still be in reasonable nick
It might be, but it also appears to be in the trajectory of any muck being sprayed from the farmer's field above (as I found out first hand when I was cleaning it for the first time).
Best Crag in the World
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Mark that's defo the best way in. When I started this thread that posh house was a derelict pub and you could park just where the old quarry track leads up, took no time to get there. Surprised that Earthboots had moss on it as it used to be really clean, but good effort cleaning it up. And nice one on Jack The Groove. Great crag.
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Pulled a plant out out of the slot on Flex and gave it a quick brush. Was wet so couldn't climb it but it looked really good. Hopefully it will dry pretty quickly now.
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Cleaned and climbed yesterday, by various folk-
Rodedendron Crack
Black Slab Arete, Black Slab, Tom Toms, Piglet - these are all really good short techy HVS-E1
Snivelin Rivelin - a good move past the peg
Portnoys Complaint - quality crimping up the edge of the slab. Rivelin is great for E2s.
Flex - very good, thin
Stunt Children - puzzling start, powerful above, nice
Teddybear's Picnic - awesome thin crack, which is more balancy than pumpy, peg is good.
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Also cleaned and tried Cold School Closure start, desperate!
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I seem to remember there's a bit of a move higher up too. Although the start is the crux by a fair margin.
I always thought paddington was good, and the direct finish bora aira (sp?)
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Some one has done a great job clearing the brambles to the right of Flex and Final Overthrow of The Green Devil and flattening out the sloped landing :thumbsup:
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Gave Small Time a good de-gunking today, and it received an ascent. It's on the edge rather than the quarries but does suffer from the same undeserved lack of attention as the quarries. A much better route than expected,side runners easy to place on lead, and a low left runner stops you slamming into the wall. Logical to aim for the diagonal crack below the top for runners and finish leftwards.
Cleaned off a bit of the top of Summertime, but it was a half-arsed attempt, will finish the job at some point this year.