UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Bonjoy on August 21, 2014, 12:36:10 pm
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Here’s an update of Peak stuff from the last few months. In no particular order.
Millstone
I cleaned up the first pitch of April Arete which is a really good 6A+ using a peg pocket to gain a hanging groove.
March into April 6C starting on the arete of March Hare traverse left into and up April Arete start.
Gritlad outreached me on a new line starting at the pocket on AA and then heading right up the wall – May Bee 7A
June Whitfield 7A - Climb the overhanging groove left of April Arete start to join it near the top.
Mirf’s Roof
Ned climbed the right hand of the two mantel project noted in the script for this Churnet venue it’s called Journey to the Centre of the Mirf. It took him a fair few goes and he’s not shit at mantels, but it was boiling and it’s on very slopey slopers, so the grade could be anything. 7B+ would seem a reasonable random guess for the time being, but it could be anything from 7B to 7C+.
Don’t think it has been mentioned on UKB yet that Tom Newman climbed a right hand finish to Mirf’s Roof and called it Burly McMirfy. Tom gave it 8A+ and it looks every bit of that on his vid of it, but Ned found an alternative sequence which dropped it to 7C+/8A. Why the split grade – Ned tends to shrug when I ask about grades, but it’s probably harder than Witness the Churnetness, but that is probably overgraded at 8A. The new climbing can be done from a kneeling start at the good lip holds of Mirf’s at 7B+ and has a great Master Kush style helicopter move.
Blackwell Dale
Gritlad outbolded me on a line I cleaned on the underrated Black N Deckout buttress. This climbs the just off vertical left wall out to a jug on the nose then pulls back left to a solid easy topout. It’s a great highball on Cheetoresque pockets and crimps. It’s called Young Gifted and Black and goes at 7A
A few more things on the Black N Deckout buttress
Young, Gifted and Black got a couple of repeats confirming the grade and quality. We then did the obvious fillers in to the left.
Black is the Colour 6A – Left of Y,GaB. Climb flakes until a big reach out right can be made to a short juggy crack which leads to a shared topout with Y,GaB. One of those rarest of things, a really good low grade limestone problem! About E1 5b in old money
Young, Gifted LH 6C+ - The trip out onto the prow on the original can be avoided by a really long lock off the mid height crimp to the crack on Black is the Colour. Possibly no easier than the original but deffo less scary and not quite as excellent, though still really decent.
Whoa-o Black Betty (Bam-Ba-Lam) 7C – Just left of Black Hole is a decent sidepull pinch (now glued), use this and a tiny undercut to make an almighty wang for a sloper in ‘the hole’. Match the hole to finish. It was too dark to top out but it looks solid enough and not very hard. – Ned Feehally
Cave Dale
Finally got round to climbing a line I mentioned in a thread on here years ago. It’s just on the right after the gate as you enter the dale. You often hear the term board style bandied about but this deserves it if anything does, it’s at least 45 degrees, the same length as say the Motherboard and involves long pulls on flat edges and pinches. One hold and the top jug needed some glue but the whole thing is super solid now. Think I’ll call it Sheep Shifter and give it 7A+. There’s a wall with some nice Reinstoresque highball walls in the English 5c-6b range a little further up on the left and potential for more new bits on a buttress below the castle and by the path on the right further up again.
Ramshaw
Ned climbed the fairly obvious line on the lower tier of the lower tier of the Ramshaw Crack buttress. From the crack/groove on the far right trend left on good rails to a heelhook under the roof which help you through the bulge above. No name yet (working title Crack-Whore’s Ram) highball 7C was mentioned
Ram Raider 7A – Between the Old Fogey buttress and the Ladystone (banned bit above farm) is a couple of boulders in a field which is on access land. I dare say people have wrongly assumed it’s part of the banned area hence it not being developed already. This problem starts low on a massive jug on the arête and gains a tricky exit on the nose via the flared crack and rail out right. Had to clean some turf out of a hole at the top and this was still wet when I climbed it, so the grade might drop if the this proves helpful on the topout once dry.
Ramification 6C+ – Sit start right of Ram Raider. Gain the jug and another tricky topout up the blunt rib.
I also had a play on the rocks west of the road which are mentioned in the guide. There is one really good flake line to a bald exit on the farthest block which is well worth the detour if you’re after a good 6B. Closer to the road (about 5m away from it infact) is a clean undercut slab. I spent a while trying to climb the middle of this but couldn’t get my palm to stick. In the end I climbed it either side of centre, both ways about 6B, but the central line would be better.
Kinder North – Seal Edge and Stones
Seal Stones are the rocks about 100m north of where the Blackden stream drops down over the edge line. Some good shapes. Bob Berzins mentioned these to me and I had a look a couple of weeks back. The best thing is a double arête to a roundy exit, which is 6C or so from sitting and a similar difficulty if the left arête is climbed on its left. There’s some other nice bits here, I’ll prob put some more detailed info on pb.info at some point.
Further west (towards Chinese Walls and Fair Brook) on what is probably Seal Edge are a couple of distinctive rock mushrooms, close together, a bit like the Boxing Gloves on Ashop Edge. There is Paul Mitchell called Launch at eng6b on the larger mushroom which jumps to the scoop at the top of the flared offwidth.
Chicken & Mushroom Scoop 7A – Climb the scoopy offwidth direct with obligatory chicken wing manoeuvre. Pretty morpho in both directions.
Stamina of a Seal 6C – Hug up the arête left of C&M with one hand in the scoop.
eatswood
One from a good while back this - Witch’s Milk 7B – Steep and technical roof thing on the far left of the cave. From a specified holds start (see topo on pb.info) climb into the exit moves of the eatswood Traverse. Would make a good hard start for Kristain’s or Hat’s for Weasel’s.
QED II – Left of Seismic Start is a vertical face characterised by the eponymous enigmatic graffiti and two diagonal breaks. An obscure established 5 climbs between these and thence the top. I’ve added a low start (stand start on holds below the break) bumping it up to a respectable 6C and given it the obvious name.
Bong Smash 7A – Ned climbed from the same start (hint: use RH to undercut low on arête) out to and up the Seismic arête.
Also whilst waiting for clouds Ned added a sit start to The Grimper pushing it up from 7A+ to 7B.
Pics and vids to follow.
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Brilliant, sounds like loads of good stuff. Hadn't spotted Tom's video till now, looks great.
FA of Burly McMirfy 8a+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/98531189)
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Nice lovejoy, I'd forgotten all about black and deckout. Proper good problem that, in fact all of that buttress is very good.
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Had a go at B&D after doing the probs further right (all good) but bottled it as on my own with only one pad. It seemed class.
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Went to Millstone and did the remaining line next to April Arete. OP updated.
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Nice lovejoy, I'd forgotten all about black and deckout. Proper good problem that, in fact all of that buttress is very good.
Are there topos/vids?
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Katzy has also done a new hard problem (in the 8's range) at Churnet in the Spellbound area. I am sure details will emerge soon.
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Nice, good bit of wall that with various obvious things to do. Lots more hard stuff yet to come out of the Churnet I reckon.
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Three Nine - no topo yet but all probs are on pb.info
Some pics. More to follow.
Topo of Millstone stuff:
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1144/standard_IMG_0255resize.jpg)
Ned's new Ramshaw highball:
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1145/standard_IMG_0250resize.jpg)
Young Gifted and Black:
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1146/standard_IMG_0117editresize.jpg)
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There is a hand drawn topo for that Blackwell dale buttress that I did years ago but it's never been in the public domain, bearing in mind climbing on that side of the dale is technically banned.
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been casting an eye around Churnet, is there anywhere that says open and closed projects in a bit more detail?
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I /we have had the churnet all to ourselves for years so in my mind all projects should be open now. Go find and climb and send all info to me as we still have time to get them added to the guide. Bonjoy I'll be intouch in a few weeks just to clarify if I've written the new additions correctly
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Ok nice one. I sent some info to cofe a while back but there may well be more to report.
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Hi Bonjoy, any beta for parking / getting to Seal Stones?
Very keen to get on your offwidth prob but it'll most likely be a flying raid when I can get a pass out.
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Park in one of the laybys just before the Snake Inn. Follow a footpath through woods to the bridge. Follow path down to confluence of the two streams. Cross Fair Brook and take the long straight diagonal path heading east along the side of a hill. This leads to a small clough (Gate Side Clough) with a path up it which takes you to an east-west path just below edge line. Go west about 400m looking out for a pair of rock toadstool close to the path. It's a fair hike of about 50mins. One pad is enough.
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Nice one, cheers - will try and get up there and do those probs / get 'em on film.
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That Ramshaw problem was an obvious LGP. Did he do it ground up? It would be desperate to TR, which I reckon might be one of the reasons it's not been done until now... good stuff.
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No it was roped first. It was a bit sketchy at first due to the crucial heel being very sandy, which would have made a GU pretty gnarly. The heel is stabilised (superglued) now and it would be bold but ok to GU with a decent number of pads (we only had two).
Shoddy pic of Sheep Shifter with line shown:
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1147/standard_ShSh1.jpg)
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There is still an amazing looking possible line to do below Ramshaw Crack - starting as per Ned's then continuing the traverse all the way to the cracked arete out left or through the roof at it's widest. It's hard to tell how just feasible this is from the ground (hence pic in old guide of Nick Dixon looking at it on a ladder). That one would be v hard to toprope.
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Maybe that was what I was envisaging. Still reckon someone (Tommy) should put some effort into the crack right of the crack.
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That sheep shitter thing looks boss. I've scoped put cave dale a few times before, don't know how I missed that.
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Nice one, cheers - will try and get up there and do those probs / get 'em on film.
Gimme a shout when you head up 3T - its not too far from my Mancheseter abode..
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Regarding Sheep Shifter. I had a look today and it looks good. I started on the left of the wall and used the block for feet, is that the wrong start? Also I couldnt figure out the last meter or so before the jug. What was your sequence if you remember?
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We didn't use the block out left.
From sitting with LH in obvious polished hole and Rh slot, RH to big pinch, get in a right facing egyptian and reach LH to slot pocket, RF heel hook, RH poor pinch on right, LF in start pocket, LH edge, LF white ramp, RH good edge (glued though you might not be able to see the glue), LH another edge (one with notch in the middle), big lock RH to jug on the shoulder where the are curves back left, LH glued jug, match.
I did try going further left via a big undercut layaway but it led to a hard bit. Think this left way will go but it will be a touch harder and with the crux at the top. The crux is about midway the way we did it.
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Thanks.
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Ramshaw rig looks well brown. Good update.
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Went back and tried Sheep Shifter with the new sequence and its really good. Hopefully go back and finish it off soon. The move to the first crimp is really hard.
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Good work. You mean the one after the horizontal slot? That was the hardest move for me. Think I did it with LF in pocket and RF just flagging.
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No the move with the left hand up from the big hole to the horizontal slot. I think ive got some different beta now so it should be ok hopefully.
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I found that bit fine using a pretty deep right facing Egyptian.
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Cool I tried that briefly but focused on trying to do it from a stand. I think that would work especially if i the sidepull below the slot as an intermediate. The heel hook move to the pinch is brilliant.
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I thought it was all desperate, at least the chippy round the corner is good. Nice find!
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Tried sheep shitter today. Nails for 7a+ to be honest, although that's coming from someone who's done no limestone at all this summer. Two overlapping halfs is the best I could muster. Warming up there is a massive issue.
Interestingly we seemed to conclude it was easier not to use the drilled(!) slot but to use the sidepull/pinch underneath it. Also we didn't use the big obvious pinch for RH but a better lower sidepull/pinch a bit down and right. Shame to miss it but it's a much better hold.
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No closed projects in the churnet never has been, you just have to be able to find them ;)
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Tried sheep shitter today. Nails for 7a+ to be honest, although that's coming from someone who's done no limestone at all this summer. Two overlapping halfs is the best I could muster. Warming up there is a massive issue.
Interestingly we seemed to conclude it was easier not to use the drilled(!) slot but to use the sidepull/pinch underneath it. Also we didn't use the big obvious pinch for RH but a better lower sidepull/pinch a bit down and right. Shame to miss it but it's a much better hold.
Despite appearances I think the slot is natural. It had some crumbly crystal I cleaned out in part of it which would suggest a natural void. There's some tiny nails hammered into cracks further up though so who knows what random uses the rock has had in the past.
Hmm I didn't find the move off the big pinch hard relative to the other moves. I suspect it works well with the egyptian sequence. Horses for courses as per limestone. I'd have got a vid but the battery was low on my camera.
Warmup wise If I'd had more time I would have had a play on the pockety highballs further up on the left or done some stuff on the steep buttress just under the castle. Had a look at the latter a couple of years ago and it has nice rock and potential for four or five nice mid grade things.
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Had a great session on Sheep Shifter with the Daves. Brilliant problem, maybe one of the best i have tried in the peak. Thanks for putting it up! Fell of last move to the jug. Sidepull beta seemed lots easer . . . . Again, maybe bit stiff for 7a+
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Cheers. Will deffo check out the sidepull beta next time. My first thought was 7b but I usually knock a grade off my first thought as a matter of course when grading, works ok most of the time, maybe not this time.
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Despite appearances I think the slot is natural. It had some crumbly crystal I cleaned out in part of it which would suggest a natural void. There's some tiny nails hammered into cracks further up though so who knows what random uses the rock has had in the past.
Pretty remarkable if its natural, looks very rockatrocity-esque! Will be back to kick that problem's back door in tout suite.
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I usually knock a grade off my first thought as a matter of course when grading, works ok most of the time,
I generally do this on FAs. Also usually works.
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Despite appearances I think the slot is natural. It had some crumbly crystal I cleaned out in part of it which would suggest a natural void. There's some tiny nails hammered into cracks further up though so who knows what random uses the rock has had in the past.
Pretty remarkable if its natural, looks very rockatrocity-esque! Will be back to kick that problem's back door in tout suite.
Indeed.There are probably bits of crystal still in there I'd have thought, which make it remarkable as the first fossil evidence of power tool usage in the mesozoic era.
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Just clocked your pics on pb. This looks brilliant. Is that really the beta?!
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/4-northern-grit/crags/183-seal-edge-stones/boulders/836-the-mushrooms/problems/4444-chicken-mushroom-scoop#.U_79VmPq11g (http://peakbouldering.info/areas/4-northern-grit/crags/183-seal-edge-stones/boulders/836-the-mushrooms/problems/4444-chicken-mushroom-scoop#.U_79VmPq11g)
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1153/standard_C_MS.jpg)
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It's the only way I could figure to do it. The tall might manage it without.
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Bonjoy at one with the mushrooms again!
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Went to look at Sheep Shifter today. Good find!
I had a taped tip on my left index, which was a bit of a pain in the bum. Nonetheless I don't feel too silly saying that I think there are easier 7Cs on Peak lime, and certainly lots of far easier 7Bs. Maybe its a style thing - it felt much harder to 'gay' it than a lot of problems. Perhaps it would indeed be 7A+ on a Sheffield cellar board!
From big fat pinch with RH I was dropping my left knee, facing right, and going for the slotty edge with my left. Hard to get in it, so you have to be static. I think i did this move once. Hard foot moves, R heel on and up to poor little pinch with RH, LF in the hole, then trying to pull front on (RF on nothing) up to the small positive edge with my left. Couldnt do this move. Then LF on ramp out left, RF on high little foothold, dropping R knee and slapping really quickly to good edge with RH (felt will be nails on link). Then easy move up to edge with notch in it, then couldnt work out where I was going and was too scared on my own with one pad to persevere. Will go back with step ladder and scope out where im going for.
Thought was well hard.
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No the move with the left hand up from the big hole to the horizontal slot. I think ive got some different beta now so it should be ok hopefully.
I dont understand this? You start the problem with your LH in the big hole, so how can you be reaching up with your left hand from it?
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Cheers. That sounds much like my sequence. The last moves are fine once you know what you are reaching for. We had a ladder and it was useful for the top as it's quite high for blind slapping. From left on the notched edge get a similar sized hold with right, build feet and go again to a good hold where the arête cuts left, then glued jug with left.
Will change to 7b on pb.info
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Is the good hold round on the top of the arete, or a sort of sidepul in a notch just down and left of the arete (if you can remember?)
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No the move with the left hand up from the big hole to the horizontal slot. I think ive got some different beta now so it should be ok hopefully.
I dont understand this? You start the problem with your LH in the big hole, so how can you be reaching up with your left hand from it?
He means your left hand is in the hole, then you let go of the hole to move that hand to the slot. Obviously the other hand is holding onto something while this is happening. Can't believe I just explained that.
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Is the good hold round on the top of the arete, or a sort of sidepul in a notch just down and left of the arete (if you can remember?)
It's over the arête where it cuts left on some brown looking rock. You can't really see the hold from below
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Cheers Bonjoy. Cheers/fuck you Dave.
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Cheers/fuck you Dave.
Don't mention it.
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From big fat pinch with RH I was dropping my left knee, facing right, and going for the slotty edge with my left. Hard to get in it, so you have to be static. I think i did this move once. Hard foot moves, R heel on and up to poor little pinch with RH, LF in the hole, then trying to pull front on (RF on nothing) up to the small positive edge with my left. Couldnt do this move. Then LF on ramp out left, RF on high little foothold, dropping R knee and slapping really quickly to good edge with RH (felt will be nails on link). Then easy move up to edge with notch in it, then couldnt work out where I was going and was too scared on my own with one pad to persevere. Will go back with step ladder and scope out where im going for.
Thought was well hard.
I go to the pinch lower down and do the move to the RH pinch off that. Much easier.
Move to the second to last hold is still shutting me down totally. Cant make the distance.
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What so big fat pinch with RH to slopey pinch below the slotty edge with LH then R heel and up to little pinch with RH?
Have you worked out which hold you're going to on the move that's shutting you down? I couldnt see the hold!
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i used the lower sidepull for my right hand which set me up better but other than that yer. I know where the hold is but im miles away from touching it.
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Hopefully some nice person will put a vid up soon.
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Soz, didn't get a vid (not suggesting i'm nice either). Might go back and do it again though and get one.
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That would definitely be a nice thing to do!
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I’ve updated this update with some up to date additional bits at Blackwell and eatswood. See italics in OP
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(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1154/standard_IMG_0116topo.jpg)
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Here's the Sheep Shifter vid (or will be once vimeo's done processing). Shame I couldn't find anywhere to plonk the camera which showed the steepness, ee well. Had another play on the possible lefthand variant last night too, the top bit is easy (get the big sidepull/undercut off the crimp then span right into the finish of the normal) but I couldn't do the moves to get there, getting the crimp after the slot with your right seemed pretty hard. Might turn out to be worthwhile if it doesn't climb too close to the blocks on the left, but will be harder than the original I think.
https://vimeo.com/105383313
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YGB looks a pimp line for lime.
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Sheep Shifter looks good. Impressive piece of limestone!
On a side note I like the "pineapple" in related collections on the vimeo page :lol:
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Fiend - Yeah it ticks all the boxes, great rock, climbs well, nice height, nice location, tops out. Shame lank boy beat me to it after I'd cleaned it up :slap:
MB - well spotted
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Where is the Black N Deckout Buttress in Blackwell? Past Mutton Busting?
Where do you park for Cave Dale? Will this stay dry in the rain as it looks like some might be on the way tomorrow.
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Yeah BnD buttress is the next buttress down from Mutton Busting on the same side. Not far, maybe 50m.
For Cave Dale turn left onto Back Street at the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in Castleton. Follow the road and bear left at the junction. Either park as soon after the pub as you find a space, or more likely at a weekend on the the road as it leaves the village in an easterly direction. There is a brown footpath sign next to a bend in the road with "Cave Dale" on it, SS is on the right almost straight after the gate. Should stay dry even in heavy rain
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That video is no good, you make it look piss!
I doubt the top jug on the arete would stay dry in heavy rain.
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Had a go on Ramification yesterday but didn't do it. Did you use a high left foot on the slopey shelf to top out?
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Yes, left foot over the lip first, rock over and match feet. I have vids of both probs on the block that I'll put up when I get a chance
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I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.
I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.
I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).
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Checked out Seal Stones and Edge today. Bit of a slog but some great problems and maybe room for a few more. I added a direct mantel finish to The Wanderer at a scary 6b+(ish). I couldn't do the chicken wing method on Chicken and Mushroom Scoop but managed a dyno method instead which was still good fun. Not sure if this was how the original problem (called Launch) was done or if it was originally done French style.
Went back to Cave Dale with 205Chris this evening. We highballed the start of an old E3 6a on the Rheinstor-esque wall at about 6b+ (can't remember the name but it's in the old Stoney guide) and also did a right-hand version at around 6c+. Worth checking out if you're in the neighbourhood.
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Nice one. Good to see Kinder getting a few visits. It’s hard to tell with Launch/CnM. The guide says something like “somehow jump to the scoop left of the unclimbed offwidth, eng 6b”, I didn’t spot the possibility of dynoing off the undercut so assumed this meant a French start. I’ll email PM and see if he remembers.
The blunt rib you guys did on Ring Bolt Buttress looked a really worthy addition. I can’t find any reference to it online or in any of the old guides/supplements. Give it a name and see if that doesn’t shake a retro claimer out of the woodwork, that’s my usual strategy. Tried to check the new route books on rockarchivist.co.uk but unfortunately the site is down in protest over the bolting of some Lancashire quarries. Whilst I’m also against the bolting, it seems a shame that climbers in another area who have little say in the bolting in question loose access to a useful resource. I’ve got some more stuff here to report but will start a new thread as this one is already a bit crowded for a new probs report.
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I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.
I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.
I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).
Heel toe on the big pinch for which hand move?
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I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.
I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.
I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).
Heel toe on the big pinch for which hand move?
The move to the good glued right-hand crimp (the fifth hand move).
Neither I nor 205Chris used a drop knee for the move off the big pinch to the pocket either. Bizarrely we found it easier to go face-on and a bit dynamically.
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The blunt rib you guys did on Ring Bolt Buttress looked a really worthy addition. I can’t find any reference to it online or in any of the old guides/supplements. Give it a name and see if that doesn’t shake a retro claimer out of the woodwork, that’s my usual strategy.
I found a UKB thread from 2008 that mentions bouldering on Ring Bolt Buttress.
John Gillott:
I did a bit of bouldering and climbing there many years ago.
In addition to the traverse there are some nice fingery problems on the ringbolt buttress a bit higher up on the left. The blunt arete until the difficulties ease is about English 6b. Into the scoop to the left is about 6a (keep going to the top of the crag at about E2). A low left to right traverse is quite good as well, at around 6a/b.
I'll get the name of the scoop from Chris and add both of them to Peak Bouldering along with the traverse.
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Here’s an update of Peak stuff from the last few months. In no particular order.
Millstone
June Whitfield 7A - Climb the overhanging groove left of April Arete start to join it near the top.
Me and Scouse did this yesterday. Nicely tech with nano-nubbins for the feet. Soloing off the ledge was fun in gale force winds...
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Don’t think it has been mentioned on UKB yet that Tom Newman climbed a right hand finish to Mirf’s Roof and called it Burly McMirfy. Tom gave it 8A+ and it looks every bit of that on his vid of it, but Ned found an alternative sequence which dropped it to 7C+/8A. Why the split grade – Ned tends to shrug when I ask about grades, but it’s probably harder than Witness the Churnetness, but that is probably overgraded at 8A. The new climbing can be done from a kneeling start at the good lip holds of Mirf’s at 7B+ and has a great Master Kush style helicopter move.
Beta:
http://vimeo.com/128731210
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Mirf’s Roof
Ned climbed the right hand of the two mantel project noted in the script for this Churnet venue it’s called Journey to the Centre of the Mirf. It took him a fair few goes and he’s not shit at mantels, but it was boiling and it’s on very slopey slopers, so the grade could be anything. 7B+ would seem a reasonable random guess for the time being, but it could be anything from 7B to 7C+.
Was down here today. Due to not reading this post/guide properly I thought Journey to the... was the line marked in the guide as a project (couldn't remember the name at the time) and was going to be a 7B and the one to the right was some thing done ages ago, anyhow, I did the left hand mantle which felt about 7B but from reading this post again it looks like this may in fact be new? I then did Journey... which felt closer to the proposed 7B+ than 7C+. Also linked the Mirf's Roof start into Journey. Felt a fair bit harder than the stand version but not outrageous, it was very warm though (I was so hot I ended up climbing it in just my pink underpants, luckily only Klem was with me and he has shit eyesight so will be ok I think) Guess I would go with 7C+ but it could be easier or harder who knows - I couldn't even do the moves on the near by The Unicorn which is 7B so maybe everything on the Witness block should be 7A+. Haven't got a name yet for either, if in fact they are new.
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Mirf’s Roof
Ned climbed the right hand of the two mantel project noted in the script for this Churnet venue it’s called Journey to the Centre of the Mirf. It took him a fair few goes and he’s not shit at mantels, but it was boiling and it’s on very slopey slopers, so the grade could be anything. 7B+ would seem a reasonable random guess for the time being, but it could be anything from 7B to 7C+.
Was down here today. Due to not reading this post/guide properly I thought Journey to the... was the line marked in the guide as a project (couldn't remember the name at the time) and was going to be a 7B and the one to the right was some thing done ages ago, anyhow, I did the left hand mantle which felt about 7B but from reading this post again it looks like this may in fact be new? I then did Journey... which felt closer to the proposed 7B+ than 7C+. Also linked the Mirf's Roof start into Journey. Felt a fair bit harder than the stand version but not outrageous, it was very warm though (I was so hot I ended up climbing it in just my pink underpants, luckily only Klem was with me and he has shit eyesight so will be ok I think) Guess I would go with 7C+ but it could be easier or harder who knows - I couldn't even do the moves on the near by The Unicorn which is 7B so maybe everything on the Witness block should be 7A+. Haven't got a name yet for either, if in fact they are new.
Good to hear that about the Unicorn. The 6C+ stand took me nearly an hour, and I couldnt really touch the sit
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He's back on the scene and downgrading mantels already. Welcome back. The lh one was done by Ned a couple of months back, 7b was mentioned. Think I wrote this up in one of the later posts in my most recent update thread.
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No mention of the flash of Witness BB? So modest. Six months skiing is clearly great stamina training for roofs.
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Here's the Sheep Shifter vid (or will be once vimeo's done processing). Shame I couldn't find anywhere to plonk the camera which showed the steepness, ee well. Had another play on the possible lefthand variant last night too, the top bit is easy (get the big sidepull/undercut off the crimp then span right into the finish of the normal) but I couldn't do the moves to get there, getting the crimp after the slot with your right seemed pretty hard. Might turn out to be worthwhile if it doesn't climb too close to the blocks on the left, but will be harder than the original I think.
https://vimeo.com/105383313
A bump for some sheep shifter advice.. thinking of heading there later on this week to have a play - but wondered which way it faced? E.G. was it in the shade or sun - and at what time of day etc.. No point in racking up in the morning if its frying in the sun etc..
Cheers,
TT
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South ish
I could imagine it catching the morning sun, though it's pretty steep and in a steep sided valley :-\
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Cloudy day best then.. thanks. Might go and have an inspection anyway...
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The valley is narrow enough and the problem steep enough that I bet it doesn't get any direct sunlight at any time at the minute.
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Went today with Dolly and Plattsy.
For info - it's in the sun in the AM and dipped into shade behind the trees about 12:30 ish.
Fuck its nails! None of us could do the first (proper) move (rh pinch, lh throw from porthole to drilled slot..
None of us could do the 7A+ to the right either - though it wasn't quite clear where that went and a couple of small lumps of the arête came off... not affecting anything except confidence....
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Tom I think if I remember right I might have done it using a pinchy hold just below the slot because I was struggling either to get the slot or use it once i'd got it, I forget which.
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A quite wide pinch? (Stop sn**gering Dolly and Plattsy..)
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The whole thing feels utterly desperate but it gradually comes together once you get it sussed and give it some beans. Some manage to get a dropknee for that move to slot, I couldn't get it work so did a very low percentage deadpoint.
The one to the right is very much a filler in, but a useful warmup, I don't know if this vid is any use
https://youtu.be/9FjvINsMwUY
James finished up into the top hold of Sheep Shifter from here which makes more sense.
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A quite wide pinch? (Stop sn**gering Dolly and Plattsy..)
Yeah that rings a bell.
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Same sentiment as mark. Feels nails until you get a sequence then just need to try hard. Finding a sequence which works was the crux.
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Cheers y'all. We did the bottom bit completely different on the vid - and went along he edge of the arête rather than around it near the top. Feel beasted now though!!
I tried bonjoys deep drop knee but I don't think it helped me with my spindly legs... slapped near the slot a couple of times so direct is probably the best way.
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Have done it with and without slot, seemed much the same difficulty-wise. So I guess the pinch way is easier if you don't like deep egyptians.
Re that slot. I know it looks drill but I can't be. When I cleaned the line it was partly blocked with a calcite crystal, which obviously took millennia to form. The rock is fossil rich reef limestone, so a crystal filled void is most likely to be the body cavity of a brachiopod. Sounds weak, but it's the truth, honest.
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Have done it with and without slot, seemed much the same difficulty-wise. So I guess the pinch way is easier if you don't like deep egyptians.
Re that slot. I know it looks drill but I can't be. When I cleaned the line it was partly blocked with a calcite crystal, which obviously took millennia to form. The rock is fossil rich reef limestone, so a crystal filled void is most likely to be the body cavity of a brachiopod. Sounds weak, but it's the truth, honest.
Theres a good few other drill marks on that bit of rock - so I wouldn't be too surprised if it was or indeed wasnt..
It does remind me of a certain hold on rockatrocity :)
(not saying its you of course! just some early mining/quarrying etc..)
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Yes have seen other holes, one has a nail in it. Just can,t see how a discrete 2 inch cavity can grow a half inch crystal in the geologically miniscule perio since drills were invented :shrug:.
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Yes have seen other holes, one has a nail in it. Just can,t see how a discrete 2 inch cavity can grow a half inch crystal in the geologically miniscule perio since drills were invented :shrug:.
:) point taken