UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: c.j.d. on January 30, 2011, 08:41:01 pm
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I felt inclined to put this on news, as opposed to 'Bouldering', so apologies and all that.
This afternoon, I succeeded on one of my long term projects, this one being up at Crafnant, in the Wales. I've been trying this with varying degrees of prowess since October last year, and it is now, as they say in the province 'Dans Le Sac'.
'My Own Private Idaho' is without doubt the best 1st ascent I have climbed, and also, I think, my hardest. I've named it due to the fact that the peace, tranquility and for the most part, the solitude of the area. It really is a very special place to be on the right day, and today was just amazing.
The problem itself in on the 'Wonder Wall' bloc, and is just to the left of Cruella De'Ville (one of Mark Katz' lines). The climbing is superb, and I've probably spent the last 10 years looking for this one (usually, traveling overseas in called for). Two very hard and stunning moves (cellar style) and a steel tension foot maneuver leads to easier, but very much stunning, ground on a particularly well formed arete. I've no idea as to a grade, but it's harder (in my opinion) than anything else I've done. Cheers to Nodder for countless days spent up here with me over the last few months (your turn now!), and to Joe Sterling for a Sterling day at the crag (and an even Sterlinger Guinness afterwards).
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Good effort no doubt, however, there's nothing inside the image tags :shrug:
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Is it not the line to the right of Cruella (not deville)? :beer2:
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da iawn, Mr. Davies! Sounds amazing. :-)
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Is it not the line to the right of Cruella (not deville)? :beer2:
Nice one Chris. Yep, it is to the right!. I thought Katzy called that line after the Dalmatians chick? Just Cruella it is then.
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8) Well done Chris! Well worthy. Great to see long term projects going down, and sounds like a great place. :beer2:
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Yeah he just said Cruella. Good vision, none of us even spotted that as a potential problem yet when i first took you up there you saw it straight away!
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nice too see another FA going down in north wales
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Good work CJD - I knew you'd get it in the end.
For everybody else, there's some pics here which give an idea of the angle and the size of the holds (i.e. tiny!):
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=485 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=485)
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Fuck me that looks brutal - awesome and awful at the same time.
Go on cjd, throw your hat in and give it a number.
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Nice! Good effort Chris.
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Go on cjd, throw your hat in and give it a number.
He seems to have gone for 8b
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Go on cjd, throw your hat in and give it a number.
Don't tempt him! ;D ;)
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And where has he gone for 8b??
Well done CJD. Looks like a cool area.
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I put 8b on the 8a.nu thing. I might sack that, as I really have no idea.
Its definitely hard, and I'm pretty sure this suits me down to the ground. Its been a while since I took this long to do anything, but who knows?! I really have no idea, but it felt pretty hard to me, and took a long time of effort. Very specific.
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Nice one Chris
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font 9a i heard.
bastard, jealousy really isn't very becoming is it.
:beer1:
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A beer would be good Dave, but not in the same style as Saturday. Wine and bullshitting with a bit of Neil Young is more my scene. My place or yours?
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A beer would be good Dave, but not in the same style as Saturday. Wine and bullshitting with a bit of Neil Young is more my scene. My place or yours?
The night might start out with such innocent notions, but I see mayhem and madness by the witching hour!!! :beer1: :beer2: :dance1: :bounce: :alky:
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A beer would be good Dave, but not in the same style as Saturday. Wine and bullshitting with a bit of Neil Young is more my scene. My place or yours?
Dressing gown, slippers and pipe for mr davies please. Tony's told me about your glory days on the dudno drinking scene CJD. Sounds like you're well and truly over the hill!
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Comes to us all. ;)
Effort CJD. Looks quality.
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A beer would be good Dave, but not in the same style as Saturday. Wine and bullshitting with a bit of Neil Young is more my scene. My place or yours?
Dressing gown, slippers and pipe for mr davies please. Tony's told me about your glory days on the dudno drinking scene CJD. Sounds like you're well and truly over the hill!
Nah, CJD was just playing smart - he knew the conditions would be awesome on Sunday. How gutted was Nodder to miss out on that - "so sticky, it felt like cheating" according to Joe.
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does look quality that chris, nice one
craftnant is superb and underrated
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Jesus Dense, was that four positives in one post? Is there love in the air?
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no, credit where credits due, always
don't get me wrong you've done some shit in your time, but this isn't one of them
;)
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Is there any topo for Crafnant? Have misplaced my NWB guide.Iis it in there?
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A few problems are mentioned in the guide along with access details.there is no up to date topo though
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Nice one Chris, good work.
Does the place dry quick?
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It does dry quick, but my good self and another keen welshman over gardened the top of my line, leading to a seapage line appearing on one of the crux holds. I've now taken it upon myself to go up on Thursday to sort this out i.e. bag of gravel to fill in the dip formed by raking out some moss and peat (which now pools water above a hairline fracture, leading to a fucker of a seepage issue). This should lead to a quick drying problem.
To be honest though, nearly all other problems will dry in a day, given a good wind. If not, a couple of days of sunshine post-session is adequate. No full topo as yet, but if anyones keen, I've further un-finished business. Happy for a tour.