UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Wood FT on March 03, 2024, 03:34:11 pm
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've just returned from a holiday clipping bolts and feel the fire a bit after a few years in the doldrums.
Starting this thread as a means to stoke it, mine the fertile seam of ukb elders and motivate myself for something in England.
Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40? Please share approach to training, sacrifices (if any) and how long it took.
Thanks!
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The poster boy for this is Martin Keller who went from 8A(?) in his 30's to 8C+ at 45.
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Yeah looking for closer to home really.
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Moon climbing Rainshadow in 50's.
I'm not quite 40 but definitely feel like on certain things I'm still climbing as well, if not better than ever.
Dave Parry climbed Keen Roof last year, his hardest boulder and he's early 40's (?)
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Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40? Please share approach to training, sacrifices (if any) and how long it took.
I ldid all my best redpoints after 40. I suspect my late development and improvement late in life is mostly due to starting climbing late in life and having no athletic background. Therefore I started at a very low level and it took me forever to get better.
I do have a bit stronger fingers than ten years ago, but am overall weaker and less snappy. Endurance keep on improving, and on limestone it is quite often possible to leverage endurance to get up hard moves by using intermediate holds.
OTOH I have not improved my best onsight grade since I was 39, so I have not improved in any way that matters except the patience to siege.
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I think Steve Mac did his best in his 40s? Maybe Paul Reeve too?
(Not so close to home, but Dani Fuertes did his first 8c onsight at 40 something, and I think most of his hardest redpoints...)
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Is it 100 % about grade…?
I’ve just been on an amazing trip where we climbed my easiest new route ever…. It’s up there with the most fun ever too.
I’ve spent this winter doing routes of a grade I first climbed 30yrs ago, whilst not at my limit it’s been a really rewarding process.
As I’ve gotten older I’ve realised it’s been less about grade than ever before, and I’ve enjoyed it more than ever.
If it is only about grade I’m 48 and definitely feel like I could climb my hardest grades ever in all but bouldering (that may be due to being a serial underachiever or just deluded) either way if you enjoy the process does it matter what the number you get at the end is….?
Don’t get me wrong the number is important and meaningful just not the be all and end all.
Good luck and don’t forget to enjoy it.
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Rob Sutton, first 9a in his mid 40s.
Closer to (my) home, all my best performances were late 30s, but I still think I could surpass them if I gave it my focus and cut out the high volume of running.
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I just turned 40 last year so maybe similar age.
Staying motivated to train and prioritise it throughout the year(s) is the biggest hurdle in my experience, especially when there’s more and more that can derail you as you get older.
(I haven’t managed to practice what I preach so not very helpful sorry :lol: but after a few false starts I’ve just accepted that I can’t be arsed with the effort/discipline it would take to progress or even maintain nowadays and that it’s ok)
Good luck!
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At 37 I've been having some similar thoughts, WFT.
Mainly with regard to bouldering, because I quite like the idea of doing 'all the 8s' at some stage. Never climbed harder than 7C, so there's probably no chance of getting there without adopting a more dedicated attitude to bouldering, at the very least.
I would guess bouldering is the hardest type of climbing to get better at with age, as power decreases before stamina. But the question for me is more am I willing to sacrifice other stuff in the next few years to be a committed boulderer for long enough to make a proper fist of it? Will I need to buy a portable fan?
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Not an example but this resonated with me:
https://www.instagram.com/p/C38MIyrPuNm/?igsh=ZjN3NjR2c2NqbjBr
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Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40? Please share approach to training, sacrifices (if any) and how long it took.
I ldid all my best redpoints after 40. I suspect my late development and improvement late in life is mostly due to starting climbing late in life and having no athletic background. Therefore I started at a very low level and it took me forever to get better.
I do have a bit stronger fingers than ten years ago, but am overall weaker and less snappy. Endurance keep on improving, and on limestone it is quite often possible to leverage endurance to get up hard moves by using intermediate holds.
OTOH I have not improved my best onsight grade since I was 39, so I have not improved in any way that matters except the patience to siege.
When did you start? Early twenties?
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Is it 100 % about grade…?
I’ve just been on an amazing trip where we climbed my easiest new route ever…. It’s up there with the most fun ever too.
I’ve spent this winter doing routes of a grade I first climbed 30yrs ago, whilst not at my limit it’s been a really rewarding process.
As I’ve gotten older I’ve realised it’s been less about grade than ever before, and I’ve enjoyed it more than ever.
If it is only about grade I’m 48 and definitely feel like I could climb my hardest grades ever in all but bouldering (that may be due to being a serial underachiever or just deluded) either way if you enjoy the process does it matter what the number you get at the end is….?
Don’t get me wrong the number is important and meaningful just not the be all and end all.
Good luck and don’t forget to enjoy it.
This is massively on point. Perhaps 'hardest grade' should be replaced with 'climbed your best' because, similar to you, this last holiday had me
climbing my best in terms of enjoyment and mindset. It is exciting to think of how this positive approach could make projecting a happier place in the here and now. The 'more to life' carefree climbing of the time starved older climber.
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I just turned 40 last year so maybe similar age.
Staying motivated to train and prioritise it throughout the year(s) is the biggest hurdle in my experience, especially when there’s more and more that can derail you as you get older.
(I haven’t managed to practice what I preach so not very helpful sorry :lol: but after a few false starts I’ve just accepted that I can’t be arsed with the effort/discipline it would take to progress or even maintain nowadays and that it’s ok)
Good luck!
I'm 37 and maintaining motivation when there are so many other variables in life leaves me much the same as you.
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At 37 I've been having some similar thoughts, WFT.
Mainly with regard to bouldering, because I quite like the idea of doing 'all the 8s' at some stage. Never climbed harder than 7C, so there's probably no chance of getting there without adopting a more dedicated attitude to bouldering, at the very least.
I would guess bouldering is the hardest type of climbing to get better at with age, as power decreases before stamina. But the question for me is more am I willing to sacrifice other stuff in the next few years to be a committed boulderer for long enough to make a proper fist of it? Will I need to buy a portable fan?
I think the fan will just be a natural addition if you drop in to that particular performance pipe.
It's routes for me, and a singular route at that, that represents a previous unfinished piece but also a grade higher.
We're the same age btw (do you know who I am?)
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've just returned from a holiday clipping bolts and feel the fire a bit after a few years in the doldrums.
What was it about this trip that rekindled the enthusiasm?
Purely from a performance perspective, the people that keep climbing hard / climb their hardest later in life are the ones that somehow manage to retain their motivation. I'm guessing they also still get a lot out of climbing.
What was it that you really liked about climbing when you first started?
What do you like about it now?
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've just returned from a holiday clipping bolts and feel the fire a bit after a few years in the doldrums.
What was it about this trip that rekindled the enthusiasm?
Purely from a performance perspective, the people that keep climbing hard / climb their hardest later in life are the ones that somehow manage to retain their motivation. I'm guessing they also still get a lot out of climbing.
What was it that you really liked about climbing when you first started?
What do you like about it now?
The freedom from outcome anxiety and the joy of moving well.
I'll have to have a think about your other questions. I can't really remember.
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do you know who I am?
Yes. I know where you live too. :-*
Happy to hear you're feeling the love again :icon_beerchug:
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I started at 30 so past my athletic prime so I'm keen to see how boulderers can progress in their mid to late 30s and even 40s in strength, grades etc!
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I was in my 40th year when I climbed Supercool 8a+ and I always consider this to be my first 8a.
I climbed my new route Cold Steal the year before but I graded that 7c+ at the time, because I thought I couldn’t climb 8a.
I climbed Stolen 8b at Kilnsey and Totally Free II 8b at Malham when I was 52.
At 56 I managed to onsight two 8a’s in a day at Chulilla.
I climbed my hardest route Mundo Feltz 8b+ with Karin when I was 60
I climbed my most recent 8a at 65 and I still have a list of unfinished business to attend to.
I’m still psyched to talk about training and ways to improve my performance. Injury avoidance and recovery is the top priority.
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The freedom from outcome anxiety and the joy of moving well.
I'll have to have a think about your other questions. I can't really remember.
You are one of best movers on rock I've had the pleasure to climb with and I don't think things like that are really going to wear off. So that leaves much more trainable weaknesses to work on, and I don't see any reason why you can't achieve what you want to with some specific training and tactics :weakbench:
(or join me in my gradual decline, pootling up safe E2s and drinking lots of beer)
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I was in my 40th year when I climbed Supercool 8a+ and I always consider this to be my first 8a.
I climbed my new route Cold Steal the year before but I graded that 7c+ at the time, because I thought I couldn’t climb 8a.
I climbed Stolen 8b at Kilnsey and Totally Free II 8b at Malham when I was 52.
At 56 I managed to onsight two 8a’s in a day at Chulilla.
I climbed my hardest route Mundo Feltz 8b+ with Karin when I was 60
I climbed my most recent 8a at 65 and I still have a list of unfinished business to attend to.
I’m still psyched to talk about training and ways to improve my performance. Injury avoidance and recovery is the top priority.
Inspirational, Steve. Did anything drive this later-in-life surge?
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The freedom from outcome anxiety and the joy of moving well.
I'll have to have a think about your other questions. I can't really remember.
You are one of best movers on rock I've had the pleasure to climb with and I don't think things like that are really going to wear off. So that leaves much more trainable weaknesses to work on, and I don't see any reason why you can't achieve what you want to with some specific training and tactics :weakbench:
(or join me in my gradual decline, pootling up safe E2s and drinking lots of beer)
This wasn't meant as a hug me post but thanks, right back at you, and I don't believe that for that second - remember I have access to your onlyfans.
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Not an example but this resonated with me:
https://www.instagram.com/p/C38MIyrPuNm/?igsh=ZjN3NjR2c2NqbjBr
Exactly the the same age. Our simulation chips must be due an upgrade.
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've just returned from a holiday clipping bolts and feel the fire a bit after a few years in the doldrums.
Starting this thread as a means to stoke it, mine the fertile seam of ukb elders and motivate myself for something in England.
Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40? Please share approach to training, sacrifices (if any) and how long it took.
Thanks!
If you ever get back to East Yorkshire, you can come for a session on my board and I will show you how to climb. A bit like I used to do at Rockcity when you were 21 and I was 52.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
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've just returned from a holiday clipping bolts and feel the fire a bit after a few years in the doldrums.
Starting this thread as a means to stoke it, mine the fertile seam of ukb elders and motivate myself for something in England.
Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40? Please share approach to training, sacrifices (if any) and how long it took.
Thanks!
If you ever get back to East Yorkshire, you can come for a session on my board and I will show you how to climb. A bit like I used to do at Rockcity when you were 21 and I was 52.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Those were the days. I was at the Deep yesterday with my son! I got all nostalgic seeing the bridge.
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I was in my 40th year when I climbed Supercool 8a+ and I always consider this to be my first 8a.
I climbed my new route Cold Steal the year before but I graded that 7c+ at the time, because I thought I couldn’t climb 8a.
I climbed Stolen 8b at Kilnsey and Totally Free II 8b at Malham when I was 52.
At 56 I managed to onsight two 8a’s in a day at Chulilla.
I climbed my hardest route Mundo Feltz 8b+ with Karin when I was 60
I climbed my most recent 8a at 65 and I still have a list of unfinished business to attend to.
I’m still psyched to talk about training and ways to improve my performance. Injury avoidance and recovery is the top priority.
Inspirational, Steve. Did anything drive this later-in-life surge?
Early retirement?
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I was in my 40th year when I climbed Supercool 8a+ and I always consider this to be my first 8a.
I climbed my new route Cold Steal the year before but I graded that 7c+ at the time, because I thought I couldn’t climb 8a.
I climbed Stolen 8b at Kilnsey and Totally Free II 8b at Malham when I was 52.
At 56 I managed to onsight two 8a’s in a day at Chulilla.
I climbed my hardest route Mundo Feltz 8b+ with Karin when I was 60
I climbed my most recent 8a at 65 and I still have a list of unfinished business to attend to.
I’m still psyched to talk about training and ways to improve my performance. Injury avoidance and recovery is the top priority.
Inspirational, Steve. Did anything drive this later-in-life surge?
I don’t know but maybe just believing that progress is possible. I’m sure I could have performed better if I’d trained smarter. Consistency is key.
Probably doing repeaters on the Beastmaker fingerboard and the boring on the minute foot on campus training that we did was the most significant contribution to some of my best performances.
Train your weaknesses but perform to your strengths.
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When I was as happily and joyously young as 37, and naively full of yet-to-be-crushed hope about climbing progress, I'd done my hardest redpoint and boulder problem just a couple years earlier and could have equalled them if firstly the DVT-induced appalling weight gain wasn't catching up with me, and secondly longer-term sieging wasn't equally appalling. I did still have my most consistent periods of trad onsighting yet to come, these partly occurred due to falling practise and partly right place / right time scenarios (and a lot of saving routes to get those).
Starting late (but with a possibly hidden good physiological make-up for climbing) is one option to fake progress in later life, constantly underperforming (e.g. ledge-shuffling) then suddenly trying a bit is another option for the same illusion of gainz. Mercilessly and rigorously training with a mathematical precision that makes Dave Mac look like some parkour-loving numpty down the Depot could see genuine progress - as long as it's done while the mind and body can still handle it.
TL, DR - go read northern yob's post instead.
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Early retirement? aka lifestyle choices.
Early retirement from a predominantly desk job and working as a route setter at Sunderland Wall can only have helped.
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I'm 46.
As background I've been climbing since my mid teens. I'm naturally fairly good on the movement side of things, and keen and have remained so for 30 odd years, so I do it a lot, but don't really ever structure my training.
I climbed my hardest boulders 2017 - 2019, ie post 40. Things have dropped off since then but that's likely due to more focus on sport in recent years, and after a bit of effort this winter at the wall I'm feeling pretty snappy on the short stuff again, probably close to where I was in those years.
Routes wise I redpointed my hardest at 38, but have equalled that as recently as 2022, and my current project would be my hardest if I manage it (though the same grade).
My hardest flash was last winter and I would say I'm currently as good or better than I've ever been at sport.
Biggest factors imo are maintaining motivation and managing recovery/injury.
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That's a great read, Duma. I find it even more impressive given your working hours too.
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Hah, I don't think they're a limiting factor tbh (more than any full time job I mean)
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Probably doing repeaters on the Beastmaker fingerboard and the boring on the minute foot on campus training that we did was the most significant contribution to some of my best performances.
Train your weaknesses but perform to your strengths.
This is underrated advice for anyone sport climbing in the UK I think. Also the two mainstays of my training. Always boring, but it always works.
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the boring on the minute foot on campus training
Is 'foot on campus training' what it sounds like, i.e. going up and down on a campus board with your foot/feet on something?
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the boring on the minute foot on campus training
Is 'foot on campus training' what it sounds like, i.e. going up and down on a campus board with your foot/feet on something?
“ The campus method has worked very well for me and many others. This must be done with feet on, or it will be too hard and you’ll be bouldering! Feet can be on specific footholds or a chair or whatever. Aim for 3 – 4 reps of this, each taking around 90 – 120 seconds. Rest 5 – 7 minutes in between. The movement should be similar to normal campusing, but with feet on, like rung 1 – rung 4, rung 6 match, then back down again (worth putting in rung 2 on way down to cut out the crux move (dropping 4-1) and so you lead with a different hand each movement)”
From https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23696.0
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I can hardly believe this, but I will be 55 next moth, ready to start drawing pension (kids just need to do one! :)).
I pretty much quit rope climbing when we had kids (I was 40), and boulder 90% of the time, and have definitely hit a few peaks in grade sine then, I never really took bouldering seriously and just used it for mileage before.
Things that I think help;
1) Weekly beastmakering
2) Training on board in garage
3) Resistance training with weights
4) Regular running to keep the weight down
5) reasonably healthy diet
6) Back off and rest as soon as you feel an injury coming on (slow lesson learning)
7) Don't be shy to train / push yourself with people a fraction of your age at the wall.
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I started at 21, puntered around for nearly 20 years then got my act together and did my hardest boulders in my early 40s and hardest routes late 40s early 50s, hardest trad around then too.
Having my own board and other training kit was key for me I think and being able to train 4/5 times a week barely leaving home. Plus being able to climb twice a week in season no doubt helped too.
Also had to specialise, tried winter bouldering & summer routes for a few years without the success on routes I was after, turns out a bit of token stamina work in spring isn't good prep :slap:. So, having blocks away from rock to train properly.
I'm absolutely sure I'd have got my hardest boulder at 52 if not for covid but I got injured going for all out strength in lockdown then just lost my motivation.
Motivation is the key really, I guess you need to be able to see a realistic path to success. If not do something more realistic for now then pick it up again when life allows.
Looking back I question whether it was worth it but I probably wouldn't have been satisfied any other way. I wonder if spending another few hours a week with the kids would mean they'd spend less time on their phones now, or be more engaged in anything or not be mortified about going out with me in public, but probablay not. Maybe I should have been more engaged pushing them on the swings rather than going through the microbeta of my current project.
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the boring on the minute foot on campus training
Is 'foot on campus training' what it sounds like, i.e. going up and down on a campus board with your foot/feet on something?
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22064.75.html
Numerous ways of doing it depending on what you want to train.
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I climbed my hardest sport route at 38 and hardest boulders at 39, but 40 was quite pivotal in that I took up another sport (running) which I do alongside climbing.
I have no doubt that you can improve in your forties, if you are motivated and enjoy the process of training and trying really hard.
Having an obvious goal to focus on can seem attractive if you have a busy life and I was certainly doing that when my kids were little.
Obviously there’s loads of info out there now about how to train for sport. Timed circuits were always key for me, even for longer endurance routes.
Something that I think is really good advice is to be honest about what you enjoy. I’ve always loved climbing on a board, but I’ve never really stuck with a deadhanging routine for very long. I just don’t get much pleasure from it.
I’m now 48 and feel like I’m having a mini comeback this winter but like Jason upthread, it’s this great feeling of no pressure and just enjoying the climbing/friends first and foremost. I have goals for this year but I’m not going to get into a position where I’m stressing about my climbing.
Finally, and linked to the point above, I value more than ever the energy and motivation that my climbing partners can bring to the party and I try harder nowadays to reciprocate the positive vibes.
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Great thread, thanks everyone. I've just turned 40 and am really hoping I can continue to climb harder for a bit longer, injuries permitting. (Continuing to enjoy it regardless of grade has thankfully never been a struggle for me.)
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I climbed a bit when I was in my early teens, got back into it (started climbing for real really) when I was 28 and had to start again from scratch (as in, from absolute scratch, worse at climbing than I’d ever been) after injury when I was 38, 5 1/2 years ago.
I improve all the time, but I do have a weird gift/ infliction where I take the most pleasure from climbing stuff that while not a new grade for me is something I’d have struggled with or flat-out not been able to do in the past. I just love that feeling of holistic improvement rather than “that grade’s really hard, only good climbers can climb that grade”.
Having said that, I am pretty close to the grade levels I used to climb at now and confident that I can surpass them, probably fairly soon.
A cynic would say I’m assisted by never having been particularly good at climbing in the first place which is 100% true but being really good at climbing is massively overrated. You’re still climbing the same rocks, just in a slightly different place.*
One of the things I’ve learnt from my unorthodox “climbing journey” is that, like so much of life, you’re trying to recreate the carefree fun and love you had for climbing when you first got psyched for it and in most cases being seriously into grades, only climbing on specific projects and, for want of a better term, thinking you’re summat, is the opposite direction from that ;)
Something that I think is really good advice is to be honest about what you enjoy.
I value more than ever the energy and motivation that my climbing partners can bring to the party and I try harder nowadays to reciprocate the positive vibes.
Massively :agree: with these two points.
*obviously this is a comic exaggeration but I stand by the basic point of it
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edit - wrong post
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Started climbing when I was 13
At my greatest power to weight and most stupid in my twenties ( could barely lead 6c but could do 3 one armers).
This led to inevitable injury and focusing on technique in my thirties.
At this point I also discovered bouldering and got married. As kids came along the adventure climbing dwindled, my hardest trad route was at 39 ( the Beast in Me E6 6b) although my boldest was at 41 with Twll Love E5 6a.
My early forties brought back pain and I discovered core work and pilates. Now with 4 kids and concentrating on the more adventurous avenues in bouldering I feel I'm continuing to improve.
My best bouldering year was 2021. Power endurance boulders getting ticked including long term offwidth projects.
2022 and 23 were mainly write offs due to injury, and this year I'm concentrating on injury prevention and general conditioning to push through to a new bouldering grade by my 50th birthday in August.
I feel that as I've always pursued adventure, I was often lazy about the physical game. This means although I may never have reached my physical potential, there's so many tweaks and gains to exploit as a canny old climber.
Also I'm still enjoying it.
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Great replies, thank you all. I've recently started a new hobby, a team sport, and being rubbish again certainly makes you appreciate the fluidity of years and years of climbing movement. Conscious competence is rare.
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've just returned from a holiday clipping bolts and feel the fire a bit after a few years in the doldrums.
Starting this thread as a means to stoke it, mine the fertile seam of ukb elders and motivate myself for something in England.
Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40? Please share approach to training, sacrifices (if any) and how long it took.
Thanks!
I'm 43 this year...
Are you willing to sacrifice feeing comfortable to achieve whatever goal this is?
Alot does come down to lifestyle choices. Obviously they are on a spectrum and life also throws some curve balls but you have to have a plan.
Some have had clarity from early on and other well life has just come at them faster than they anticipated..
Saying no to all responsibility and being selfish won't make you happy so doing the normal life stuff within reason works for many.
Thinking about it.
Can debt be one of the biggest issues to making the most of your time/energy?
As mentioned.
It's not all about achievement for everyone, but deep down you want to know what you are capable of surely?
Again this as you ages takes feeling uncomfortable. Be that dieting, training, not getting that dog, not getting that conservatory or new fancy car..
Everyone's circumstances are different so it's hard to apply one person's lifestyle to another.
The having fun part yes is key, a particular climb won't make you happy but having tried hard to better yourself will sit well with you and be the lasting impression of this/that particular time period.
JB
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Saying no to all responsibility and being selfish won't make you happy so doing the normal life stuff within reason works for many.
For me it's even more than that. A huge part of my enjoyment from climbing comes as an 'escape' from everyday life. So without the normal life stuff, I'm not sure I'd actually enjoy climbing as much. Obviously it's frustrating sometimes when you can't get out because of life stuff, but that makes me enjoy the times I do get out even more.
And building a board in the basement has kept me sane too. :-) Otherwise I would do no training/climbing most weeks.
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"For me it's even more than that. A huge part of my enjoyment from climbing comes as an 'escape' from everyday life. So without the normal life stuff, I'm not sure I'd actually enjoy climbing as much."
You explained that better they I tried, exactly if all you had was climbing hard grades you wouldn't find much fulfillment.
I see plenty of achievers that are miserable and don't have much else going on. But again no climbers could look at climbers and think what the heck are they doing with large chunks of their life...
I'm especially impressed with those who work in the climbing industry speaking from my own experience. For them they can hardly use going climbing as an escape.
As long as the life stuff isn't to stressful/grief a balance can be struck but have a plan I guess.
Thinking more about the enjoyment vs trying hard, for some people they aren't linked and for others they are intrinsic.
You just got to be honest with yourself as you get older as time flies and today's choices affect the rest of the year....
Anyway I fly back from Turkey today having failed on my two big projects....
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I've recently started a new hobby, a team sport
Hopefully not a silly team sport that gets you injured! Otherwise, enjoy.
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but being really good at climbing is massively overrated. You’re still climbing the same rocks, just in a slightly different place.*
:clap2: brilliant.
I'm generally very grumpy about aging and climbing regress, mostly but not entirely due to the lack of SAChris's #4 and all the knock-on effects, but I should point out that despite that shit I'm still often very motivated (motivating for climbing / pushing hard is definitely NOT enough on it's own, motivation for the merciless training regimes alluded to may well be tho) and still try hard and still enjoy pushing the current lower levels of punterdom.
This winter I've got back into scrittle bothering after 2 dogshit seasons previously, and, despite climbing at a full single grade lower than previously, I'm still regularly inspired and regularly trying hard, in fact skin is letting me down more than psyche or anything else!! I think the massive development / documentation / Bonjoying of bouldering in recent years plus my usual penchant for exploring off-piste has given a lot more choice and fresh problems to go at which definitely helps...
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Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.
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Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.
Until you realise 47 has come and went :wavecry:
As Jordan said, I'd also struggle to be motivated to still push hard if I worked in a climbing related industry. Twice in the past, employers have been surprised that I (of all people) walked away from a position (and a potential position) within the industry.
Other folk have mentioned trying hard still being an important part. For me, trying hard is what made me have a hernia (now repaired) and snap my left ankle (not from falling off or landing, but fighting on). I have to be a little more careful, but that may be due to my convective tissue having the integrity of raspberry bootlace.
I'm stronger in different ways now, am more strategic with my training and project selection, but there's no doubt that I'm way past my physical peak. That doesn't mean I won't be able to climb a harder grade than previously though (partly because I never set the bar all that high in the first place).
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Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.
Not sure that's necessarily true, I can personally take more inspiration from some of the varied perspectives on this thread than from someone whose standard was elite. I'm never going to have the talent, drive or dedication of Steve Mc, I can't even relate to it really. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice. I'm more interested to hear from climbers who are a few years older and maybe a couple of grades stronger than me, about what keeps them ticking.
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Watching this thread with interest, 42 now and since having kids 6 years ago my climbing has been stagnant at best. But still hope that I have a chance to climb harder when I'm older...
My dad is my example of progress in older age. He climbed E5/6ish in late 70s/early 80s so must have been strong then. But then quit climbing for 25 years until I took it up, so he was in his early 50s. Climbed F7a aged 56, progressed to F8a aged 63.
Retiring and moving to Dorset helped! He also put a board in his garage and did funny training on it, not really that many hard straight up problems, more individual moves and reps of hangs in difficult positions, often adding weight over time. When he was trying to get fit he did circuits, adding weight with a vest. He said what worked for him was really low volume training but trying hard, then mostly redpointing harder routes. Wasn't that interested in bouldering but managed V8 in his 60s.
I like to hope I can do similar, but picked up more injuries in my 20s and 30s than he did in his 50s so maybe I have the genes from the other side of my family and not him!
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nap my left ankle (not from falling off or landing, but fighting on)
Sorry, what??
Also what andy moles says - SteMac can be held aloft as a shining example, but let's be honest he is a total outlier.
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There's lots of different kinds of people in this block really, there's people who started young and are at a high level trying to preserve it, people who started young but weren't at their peak until much older, and people who started when they were older
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nap my left ankle (not from falling off or landing, but fighting on)
Sorry, what??
Also what andy moles says - SteMac can be held aloft as a shining example, but let's be honest he is a total outlier.
Aggressive heelhooking, putting way more force through my ankle than I probably ever previously have. My foot went from being in line with my shin, to being at right angles (sideways).
Similarly inguinal hernia. Was seriously torqeuing on a weird toehook so I wouldn't drop an ascent of some midgrade font lowball.
I guess try hard, but only in ways you've trained is probably my take away.
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I was often lazy about the physical game.
But not about building flawless dry stone platforms to level landings.
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Aggressive heelhooking, putting way more force through my ankle than I probably ever previously have. My foot went from being in line with my shin, to being at right angles (sideways).
Similarly inguinal hernia. Was seriously torqeuing on a weird toehook so I wouldn't drop an ascent of some midgrade font lowball.
Cheers. 2 new fears unlocked....
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As Cheque said, it helps to have never been any good. Bouldering up to about 7A+ late 90s, at the time that felt like an ok standard. Now feels like entry level for wall grads. Basically took my 40s off plus a bit, back to 'advanced beginner' about 10 years ago. 59 and working around a condition that shapes how much training I can handle (plus natural laziness) and back to the occasional high point of 7A and freak 7A+. I'll take that graph.
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Good thread, interesting to read different views. Northern yob's post resonates. I get most enjoyment from doing new routes and exploring new areas, also still love climbing in all different styles from bouldering to alpinism. Being able to go from ice to mountains to bouldering to trad to sport helps keep it fresh for me although limits the level in any of them.
It's much harder now than it would have been 20-30 years ago to find good new routes south of the Scottish border, I think this has begun to reduce slightly my motivation recently - having to travel further to find blank canvass for me introduces questions of 'why?'. There's something good about developing an area in your own backyard, once that's gone I can start to question the connection I have to places that aren't my home area and whether it's sensible to invest time and emotion into it. That's when the other parts matter more - companions, adventure, good food, travel, and just repeating quality climbs at any (doable) grade. Although with more time on my hands I'm planning to test that theory of emotional connection to a place and how much it matters.
I think I see climbing as a means to living 'the good life', as long as it provides that I'll be happy with it. I think I'm settled with the fact that it's meaningless beyond that.
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Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.
Not sure that's necessarily true, I can personally take more inspiration from some of the varied perspectives on this thread than from someone whose standard was elite. I'm never going to have the talent, drive or dedication of Steve Mc, I can't even relate to it really. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice. I'm more interested to hear from climbers who are a few years older and maybe a couple of grades stronger than me, about what keeps them ticking.
Totally disagree. The fact that steve had already performed to a high standard all his life and continued to improve shows age is no barrier to performance. A lot of people are starting from a very low base point as they didnt climb anywhere near as hard as they could have in there 20s/30s so makes it much easier to improve in old age.
As to whether you have the motivation or not to do it, i didnt think that was covered in the question. Its obvious that if you have not got the time or cant be arsed you will not improve in your 40s/50s.
If you didnt climb in the 8s when you were 20/30 there is nothing physically doing so in your 50/60s.
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Totally disagree.
With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.
The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.
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I probably climbed my physically hardest problems in my mid to late 40s ... but only on my board. Outside my progress came to a grinding halt at 37, when I was probably still (just about) climbing as well as I ever had. That was my age when my wife was diagnosed with an illness that would completely consume and upend the next five years and would end only with her death, when I was 42 and we had children of 8 and 12. I never completely stopped and eventually got back to a pretty decent standard, but - unsurprisingly - my relationship to climbing, and its role in my life, had changed completely. I still loved it as much as ever but it was important in very different ways. With my opportunities now very restricted it came to be much more about connections to place, about solace, and about a little time away, often by myself. It had to fit itself around the rest of life, not least work and career, for which I had also become much more committed and motivated.
To be honest, I think things would have changed anyway, as my strength had always been in bold trad and I think I would have lost the appetite for that over time regardless. As a single parent my attitude to risk changed completely. I was lucky to walk away from what could have been a catastrophic fall at Helsby. Even as I hit the floor I realised I could no longer afford such risks.
Obviously, this is an unusual set of circumstances, but I think it probably points to questions everyone faces as they get older: what is my relationship to climbing, why and how is it important to me, what do I get from it and what do I want from it?
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I was often lazy about the physical game.
But not about building flawless dry stone platforms to level landings.
TBH the only game that counts :strongbench:
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I was often lazy about the physical game.
But not about building flawless dry stone platforms to level landings.
TBH the only game that counts :strongbench:
Obvious crossover benefits to open hand pinch strength.
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I started at 19 (1997), got elbow tendonitis almost immediately ( :slap:) but loved it and have been at it ever since, oscillating between a bit injured and a lot injured it seems. Anyway, never had a lot of talent for it but loved trad and got out around the country and Europe placing nuts or clipping bolts. In my best years was pretty solid around E2, topped out at E4, so obviously not a very accomplished climber, but competent and safe on the whole.
Had child 1 in 2015, moved to Sheffield in 2016, child 2 in 2017. Got into bouldering as it fitted with the lifestyle of full-time work and young children. Got up to 7B+ (age 41) on my own efforts, more or less just going climbing outside. No training, no indoor walls. I've worked on and off with a coach for a couple of years and ticked my first 7C in 2022 at 44. Currently not climbing as I've an A2 rupture so I'm keeping my spirits up with lots of swimming and other things.
In my case I've never wanted to compromise on my family life, so my kids (almost) always come first, which usually pushes my training to very late at night, or very early in the morning. You do need to be motivated to be hanging off the Beastmaker at midnight, or down in the cellar deadlifting at 5am, but it works for me. And my climbing sessions tend to be midday, mid-week so I don't miss much family time at weekends or evenings. This obviously isn't going to work for many people.
I provide that context to demonstrate that although my grades and achievements are very modest, I've improved most, and made the most gains in my 40s. However, it's very much not been linear and the risk and reality of injuries have always been there for me. I don't seem to be terribly robust and bouldering is a very tough sport. Now, approaching 46 I'm starting to twig that I may have peaked as the diminishing returns of training seem to be....... diminishing..... and staying 'healthy' is getting harder. Once my finger heals up I'm interested to see what I can achieve this year, but I'll probably have to build up again very slowly and carefully before jumping on 'hard' projects. The motivation is still there though, so we'll see.
TLDR it's definitely possible to climb and improve into your 40s but is tough to manage in the context of a 'rounded' life of other more important commitments, and a body that takes longer to recover from exercise and is more prone to injury. Good luck!
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Totally disagree.
With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.
The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.
Was disagreeing with your comment. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice
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Totally disagree.
With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.
The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.
Was disagreeing with your comment. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice
Well, you're welcome to disagree if you're speaking for yourself. But if it's true that it isn't worth looking beyond the top performers for personal inspiration, why's anyone replying to this thread?
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I was often lazy about the physical game.
But not about building flawless dry stone platforms to level landings.
TBH the only game that counts :strongbench:
Obvious crossover benefits to open hand pinch strength.
Strong Thumbs for the Jams, and work those glutes
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Totally disagree.
With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.
The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.
Was disagreeing with your comment. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice
Well, you're welcome to disagree if you're speaking for yourself. But if it's true that it isn't worth looking beyond the top performers for personal inspiration, why's anyone replying to this thread?
Why are you so wound up with my comment. I was answering the original question with what i thought was a good example.
Progress when you get older. Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40?
Steve, whilst not on here, is a prime example of someone who proves its possible to do so. Dave Mc also, Neil Gresham another.
You suggested that wasn't the only answer you need and i disagreed as i feel its the perfect answer. He and lots of other all prove you can progress when you get older, even from a very high base line. :popcorn:
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Totally disagree.
With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.
The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.
Was disagreeing with your comment. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice
Well, you're welcome to disagree if you're speaking for yourself. But if it's true that it isn't worth looking beyond the top performers for personal inspiration, why's anyone replying to this thread?
Why are you so wound up with my comment. I was answering the original question with what i thought was a good example.
Progress when you get older. Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40?
Steve, whilst not on here, is a prime example of someone who proves its possible to do so. Dave Mc also, Neil Gresham another.
You suggested that wasn't the only answer you need and i disagreed as i feel its the perfect answer. He and lots of other all prove you can progress when you get older, even from a very high base line. :popcorn:
I climbed my hardest route at 40 years and one month and my hardest problem at 51.
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Steve Mc is so obviously an outlier that I struggle to see him as 'inspirational' in the same way I do 'normal people' who have climbed harder as they get older. McClure is so obviously not 'normal' its ridiculous. History will probably record the man was climbing at a 9b level way ahead of the rest of the field. Even now he is among the best, if not the best trad climber in the UK (not counting Pearson as hes no longer resident I think?). I don't think Andy is getting wound up, hes just pointing out that saying 'Steve Mac can do it so anyone can' isn't necessarily true, because whatever Steve would say in his characteristically self deprecating way, he is clearly naturally gifted in a way that the rest of us mortals can only dream of.
I'm also not convinced by the examples of Dave Macleod (best all round climber Britain has ever produced?) and Gresham (early Indian Face repeat, did Equilibrium when that was absolutely cutting edge (only one repeat ever since?), clearly got inhuman capacity for training)
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Don't worry, I'm not wound up.
I just found it a strange thing to say that you strongly disagree about - me basically saying that I think it's worth hearing about people other than just Steve McClure about progressing as you get older (and my own personal reasons for feeling that way, which I doubt are unusual).
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Perhaps Ste Mac and the others mentioned who've dedicated their whole time to climbing are the under-achievers? When taken relative to Mr Anon 8c+ or E8 onsighter non-professional climber, with a full-time job who doesn't benefit from subsidised/free climbing trips and subsidised/free training advice.
Yes there's a huge gap in volume of hard climbing. But is a peak performance of 2 or 3 sport or E grades higher than a non-professional really that big a performance difference, after a life dedicated entirely to the pursuit of climbing? Manchester City versus Llandudno FC it isn't.
Said in spirit of devil's advocate, I massively admire McClure and his achievements!
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Whilst you could call them outliers as there are not many people at there level i believe that they show that age isn't a barrier to progress. The fact that highly trained, high performing athletes have continued to improve into there 50s shows what our bodies are capable of if your prepared to dedicate the time to our goals.
Using an example of someone who trad climbed E2/E3 in there 20s, did a little bit of sport in there 30s then got focused in there 40s, trained and managed to climb an 8a doesn't prove the same. It just shows they underperformed in there 20s.
My personal take on it is there are three key components that prevented me improving.
Time - family and work took away the time i had to dedicate to the sport. I am getting it back now as kids have left home so this now isn't an excuse.
Desire- Kind of lost this down to point one. I like to progress at things so when i couldn't i pulled away from it and took up something new where i could (surfing). I'm keen again and enjoying it but probably don't have the same levels as my youth. I think this is down to the fact that don't think i could climb harder than i did in my 20s and putting a load of effort into doing something that was easy years ago isn't the same carrot.
Weight- we all get heavier as we get older and every single person i know who has managed to keep improving or maintain a high level for there age has either not put any weight (Steve, Nic, Ben etc) on or got into extreme dieting (Neil, Dave) to bring it down. I'm far from fat but m 1 1/2 stone heavier than when i was climbing well and without loosing that weight i would not get back to the level i was at in my 20s. Whilst i don't think i climbed as hard as i could have due to stopping as i hit 30 i did enough to make it hard to achieve now. If i had just bumbled about in the 7s i might think it possible.
All that said what Steve Crowe did at 60 does come into my mind a lot. One of the most impressive things on this topic.
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Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.
Is quite clearly utter bollox and entirely unhelpful without context....
Whilst you could call them outliers as there are not many people at there level i believe that they show that age isn't a barrier to progress. The fact that highly trained, high performing athletes have continued to improve into there 50s shows what our bodies are capable of if your prepared to dedicate the time to our goals.
Using an example of someone who trad climbed E2/E3 in there 20s, did a little bit of sport in there 30s then got focused in there 40s, trained and managed to climb an 8a doesn't prove the same. It just shows they underperformed in there 20s.
My personal take on it is there are three key components that prevented me improving.
Time - family and work took away the time i had to dedicate to the sport. I am getting it back now as kids have left home so this now isn't an excuse.
Desire- Kind of lost this down to point one. I like to progress at things so when i couldn't i pulled away from it and took up something new where i could (surfing). I'm keen again and enjoying it but probably don't have the same levels as my youth. I think this is down to the fact that don't think i could climb harder than i did in my 20s and putting a load of effort into doing something that was easy years ago isn't the same carrot.
Weight- we all get heavier as we get older and every single person i know who has managed to keep improving or maintain a high level for there age has either not put any weight (Steve, Nic, Ben etc) on or got into extreme dieting (Neil, Dave) to bring it down. I'm far from fat but m 1 1/2 stone heavier than when i was climbing well and without loosing that weight i would not get back to the level i was at in my 20s. Whilst i don't think i climbed as hard as i could have due to stopping as i hit 30 i did enough to make it hard to achieve now. If i had just bumbled about in the 7s i might think it possible.
All that said what Steve Crowe did at 60 does come into my mind a lot. One of the most impressive things on this topic.
...e.g. this sort of context ::) ::) ::)
(Especially the underperforming bit - which I alluded to in the "fake progress", and the weight bit - nice for someone to be crystal clear about this)
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Using an example of someone who trad climbed E2/E3 in there 20s, did a little bit of sport in there 30s then got focused in there 40s, trained and managed to climb an 8a doesn't prove the same. It just shows they underperformed in there 20s.
That almost precisely describes my life experience. Well, E4/5 ish in my late teens and 20s, drifted mostly to sport but plateau'd around sport 7b through my 30s and 40s, then took made life changes and climbed several 8a's and 8a+'s in my 50s. I agree with you - the only valid conclusion is that I wasn't achieving my full potential when I was younger.
That said, that is the not-so-uncommon experience of the cohort of climbers currently in their 50s and 60s, and it may be that it reflects the absence of training knowledge, training equipment and decent climbing gyms when we were young. Not to mention an absence of safe'ish hard climbing. Climbing at a high level in the 1970s and for most of the 1980s, when "my" cohort were growing up, generally required embracing risk. Prevalent sport climbing opportunity didn't really appear until the late 1980s and bouldering pads came later still.
A reasonable hypothesis is that climbers aged ~40 or younger now actually had excellent opportunity to reach their full physical climbing potential in their youth and therefore have less room to improve as they age?
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Late to this party but my experience might encourage.
Started climbing in 1970. Always keen but took various years off for running etc.
First 7a+ at 44
First 7b at 52
First 7c+ at 65
First 8a at 66
Now 67 with the dreaded elbow tendinitis, but did a few 7cs in the last year.
I’ve never been a trainer - too lazy - and prefer to climb 3 or 4 days a week.
I think the main factors are: moving to a place I can climb year round, retirement, staying light, partnering with much better climbers than me.
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That's inspirational!
What's the best place for year round climbing? Is it Rotherham maglime?
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My dad is my example of progress in older age. He climbed E5/6ish in late 70s/early 80s so must have been strong then. But then quit climbing for 25 years until I took it up, so he was in his early 50s. Climbed F7a aged 56, progressed to F8a aged 63.
Retiring and moving to Dorset helped! He also put a board in his garage and did funny training on it, not really that many hard straight up problems, more individual moves and reps of hangs in difficult positions, often adding weight over time. When he was trying to get fit he did circuits, adding weight with a vest. He said what worked for him was really low volume training but trying hard, then mostly redpointing harder routes. Wasn't that interested in bouldering but managed V8 in his 60s.
Nice to read some more details about Rocksteady's dad who I have heard about before and have as an inspiration.
I been on a 7a+/b plateau since 1984 (Australian 26, US 12b) which I have completely failed to progress from.
What's the best place for year round climbing? Is it Rotherham maglime?
;D
Colorado in Jonathan's case. Dorset in the UK?
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I been on a 7a+/b plateau since 1984 (Australian 26, US 12b) which I have completely failed to progress from.
Do you do much bouldering on the type of rock that you are trying routes on? I think doing that was what got me from a 7a+/b (redpoint) plateau to a 8a/8a+ plateau (that has since slipped back a bit I guess). I'm not sure though whether that's a popular (or efficient) approach.
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Reading this thread with interest; I'm 44, climbed my hardest in my 30s, (8b) and hadn't lost too much after starting a more demanding career until about 2021/22, when I somehow lost my motivation and have been intending to start again after about 2 years off. In early 2020, I managed to redpoint 7c+ first go on a trip, but now the easiest bouldering circuits inside have felt challenging in my limited experience since. I still want to climb, as not doing so hasn't done me any good, but it's really hard to work up the motivation to struggle with effectively being a beginner again. Any advice?
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The beginner phase is short. Quite a few adaptions to climbing are permanent, especially if you held a decent level for a long time. You will regain your bouldering level very fast. Within 36 - 40 sessions of regular training you should have regained most of your previous base-level.
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it's really hard to work up the motivation to struggle with effectively being a beginner again. Any advice?
Be amazed at how quickly it comes back and don't be put off when you feel like a sack of spuds the first few sessions. Just push through that initial hump and then you'll progress at the pace of a beginner again but will already have the base level and technique dialled from before. You'll see gains every session, which you won't have felt for a very long time (no more plateauing like when you were climbing your hardest).
That part will probably be easy, but if you really want to get back to anything like where you were a few years ago the hardest part will be staying injury free while it happens. Lots of rehab / physio of any old injuries etc. That's the bit I've never managed!
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When I was injured and couldn't climb at all I actually listened to Goggins YouTube videos and I can tell you I never missed a physio/training session lol I wonder if something similar would be worth it?
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Forget where you were, enjoy where you are, and don't push too hard. Like ali k says, easy to get injured trying to get to where you were too fast in a vehicle that has aged a bit since last used.
First comeback is the hard one, it becomes part of the game after the third or fourth.
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I been on a 7a+/b plateau since 1984 (Australian 26, US 12b) which I have completely failed to progress from.
Do you do much bouldering on the type of rock that you are trying routes on? I think doing that was what got me from a 7a+/b (redpoint) plateau to a 8a/8a+ plateau (that has since slipped back a bit I guess). I'm not sure though whether that's a popular (or efficient) approach.
Virtually none! Thanks for the reminder. I'm sure it is a very efficient way of getting better, possibly the most efficient. I was about to give a long list of reasons why I have not done this but that's besides the point.
I have a mental list of three things to do differently before the next trip.
One of the three was do more bouldering. I need to sort out the practicalities of this whilst living a long way from real rock and whilst I can't afford to land on a pad/matting from more than about a metre. Neither limitation is going to change in the medium term. In the last few years I've got around this by doing more 'bouldering on a rope' but this isn't giving me the volume to make a big difference given I climb outdoors relatively infrequently. This is why I was interested in Rockstead's dad's idea of 'holding positions'. It's going to look weird at a London bouldering wall but I'm beyond the stage of caring about such things.
I still want to climb, as not doing so hasn't done me any good, but it's really hard to work up the motivation to struggle with effectively being a beginner again. Any advice?
Sounds a lot like the experience of the thread starter. He managed to regain his enthusiasm, in part by letting go of the need to perform at a certain level. I have the same questions about motivation which might help you understand where yours came from and hence how you might rekindle it:
What was it that you really liked about climbing when you first started?
What do you like about it now?
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I’m 49 and over the last 12 months have got back into regular climbing after a 8-9 year break from anything beyond occasional sociable climbing. Currently only really bouldering and feel down on my best, but improving…
I doubt I will get back to previous levels bouldering, but think I could get close-ish. The big difference I feel now is that it takes time to get going and if I’m not feeling it then the old limbs and joints won’t have it. When younger I could probably just push on through and force a reasonable session, but no more.
Bad points:
My flexibility, which was always poor, is now horrible. Making a concerted and ongoing effort to work this… not sure it’s getting better, but don’t think it’s getting worse…
I’ve also lost bounce, spring, fast twitchy power. I climb with the kids and they spring around like monkeys, I feel like I’m plodding along behind…
Good points:
Out and out finger strength seems ok. I mostly climb with the kids, and they can regularly burn me off on problems with their bounce and flex. But I can hang the 6mm edges that they can’t (yet…). I would caveat that by saying I think my technique to do this is good, and I’m not telling them…
Stamina is better than I expected, both in terms of doing a route (as long as it’s short…) and session length.
For me the SYKE and motivation has come back through the kids enthusiasm for climbing, partly the ultimately hopeless aim of staying a step ahead of them… but mostly being able to watch on with wonder as they path things as kids that I floundered on as a 20-something.
For the future I’d like to cling onto their coat-tails for another year (with luck), would like to think high7/low 8 sport, high 7 boulder and some mid-E trad into the next decade and beyond was achievable… but I guess as we get older there are more and more confounding health/body factors that can come into play. Main thing is I’m lovin’ it again now, and when I’m not I’ll do something else.
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60 soon :o
Interesting looking back to see when I hit my first of the grade. I’ve pretty much climbed non-stop since 1983 when it was all trad (projected some of those ground up too!) but took up sport when it took hold and latterly have spent more time on boulder projects which have yielded some grade gains. Relatively free of injury but not as a driven. The only new level I’ve achieved lately is being consistent at 12 stone :'(
First 7b+ at 23
First 7c and 7c+ at 28
First 8a at 30
First 8a+ at 37
Second 8a+ at 41 (GBH) so first 7B for the start!
Last 8a+ at 46
First 7B+ at 49
First 7C at 55
Rate Bens with kneebars at 55 as my hardest piece of climbing and at 16 moves arguably worth treating as a route grade (hard 8a+?)
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Reading this thread with interest; I'm 44, climbed my hardest in my 30s, (8b) and hadn't lost too much after starting a more demanding career until about 2021/22, when I somehow lost my motivation and have been intending to start again after about 2 years off. In early 2020, I managed to redpoint 7c+ first go on a trip, but now the easiest bouldering circuits inside have felt challenging in my limited experience since. I still want to climb, as not doing so hasn't done me any good, but it's really hard to work up the motivation to struggle with effectively being a beginner again. Any advice?
The 6am walls(or before work) are useful, very quiet, no social. Like a few have said, a couple of weeks consistently showing up, not pushing it(i often do 30min sessions) and the movement comes back and forearms follow. For me these, slightly dull sessions, are most useful for getting back into it.
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Thanks all for the advice, duly noted and hope I'll be out there again this year.
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......do more bouldering. I need to sort out the practicalities of this whilst living a long way from real rock and whilst I can't afford to land on a pad/matting from more than about a metre. Neither limitation is going to change in the medium term. In the last few years I've got around this by doing more 'bouldering on a rope' but this isn't giving me the volume to make a big difference given I climb outdoors relatively infrequently. This is why I was interested in Rockstead's dad's idea of 'holding positions'. It's going to look weird at a London bouldering wall but I'm beyond the stage of caring about such things.
I'm sure volume bouldering is really helpful for many things too but I was thinking of limit bouldering. I mean where you really have to change the way in which you climb in order to do the individual moves. I do think for me doing that on outside rock helped/helps. I suspect you aren't really doing that when you think you are "bouldering on a rope". It means when completely fresh, trying to pull on and point towards the next hold, then working towards touching the next hold, then holding it etc. Really pushing the envelope on your guile and full body engagement. I'm sure other people on here are vastly more qualified to comment about this though.
I think you'd be surprised how much of that sort of stuff you could usefully do without getting your feet more than 1m of the pads. It can also be done at funny times of year and when you aren't co-ordinated with other people. I wasn't being entirely facetious when I mentioned Rotherham maglime as offering year-round climbing. You see Londoners there who have popped up on midwinter days despite eg the Peak being all wet.
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What was it that you really liked about climbing when you first started?
What do you like about it now?
To the first question; adventure, and, weirdly, bouldering.
I'm not sure, to the second, my mindset changed significantly since a serious accident and I can no longer access the mindset I used to have with bolder climbing where I only worried about if until I'd committed, at which point I usually didn't as long as I'd thought it all through properly beforehand. Shouldn't matter for sport and bouldering, but somehow it seems to.
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Like ali k says, easy to get injured trying to get to where you were too fast in a vehicle that has aged a bit since last used.
First comeback is the hard one, it becomes part of the game after the third or fourth.
Ali, is as usual very correct in this. Injuries get harder and longer to heal as we age. I'm 52 and after one or two minor, not at all well known breaks from climbing, now feel as though with a fair wind I can still get somewhere near my peak of 8a+/8b sport, although bouldering near my hardest of 7C seems a long way off.
I started in 1988, got to E6 in two years, went to university in London and pottered for a few years before really getting into sport in the mid-late 90's. Got to 8a fairly quickly then had a break for a while. Got back into it in the early 2000's and eventually got to 8a+/8b in 2011, then went bouldering and got to 7C. Another break and back about 10 years ago. Did 8a the year before last.
So, I've maintained my level, with some breaks along the way. The drop off is more noticeable in my 50's, but raging against the dying of the light.
There's life in the old dog yet, just not to good at learning new tricks.
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Never give up, never slow down, never grow old, never ever die young.
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Only the good die young. Apparently
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I’m 60 this year as well. Did my first ( yes I think there will be more) 7b of the year last Wednesday
Had most of February off looking after my 93 year old mum. I still fucking love it. Which I think is more of a motivation than anything else. ( Lots of relatively new research showing that motivation is linked to emotion)
I’m still strong and with know how as opposed to technique I still think/know I can climb harder. Obvs I feel the ageing process but I don’t need to rage rage yet. It’s still a “ labour” of love for me
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Never give up, never slow down, never grow old, never ever die young.
Let me guess… Rick Astley?
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https://youtu.be/9zmcm8mQYkg
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Only the good die young. Apparently
All the evil seems to live forever.
Reputedly.