UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Nibile on November 24, 2016, 10:06:00 am
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Hey guys, for the annual edition of Up-Climbing magazine, they are running a series of monographs on hystorical routes, and of course one of them will be about Hubble.
I will be cooperating with the author of the monograph, so to do something "new" I though about telling some anecdotes about the route itself, how it came to be, the stories behing its ascents and ascentionists, you know, the kind of stuff that you recall in front of a few pints.
The Epic.
Thanks a lot for your contributions.
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how about....no one who has actually repeated it has said it's 9a?
How did that discussion even come about?
/me hides behind sofa.
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how about....no one who has actually repeated it has said it's 9a?
How did that discussion even come about?
/me hides behind sofa.
William Bosi said he thought it was 9a.
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Got given 9a in the new guide.
Megos said 8c+ didn't he, and to be honest he's the one most qualified to comment.
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In Grimer's podcast Megos wouldn't be drawn on a French grade and said a bouldering grade is more appropriate as the hard bit is 6 moves.
Given his comments about the Frankenjura/German scene, I doubt it's a case of him not saying 9a so that AD is recorded in the history books as 9a. I don't reckon he thinks it's that hard or 9a, but is being polite as he's a jolly nice chap.
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In Grimer's podcast Megos wouldn't be drawn on a French grade and said a bouldering grade is more appropriate as the hard bit is 6 moves.
Given his comments about the Frankenjura/German scene, I doubt it's a case of him not saying 9a so that AD is recorded in the history books as 9a. I don't reckon he thinks it's that hard or 9a, but is being polite as he's a jolly nice chap.
Beat me to it! I thought he came over really well in that, not the German automaton I had imagined.
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They aren't all in Kraftwerk you know.
I assume you have links to all the interviews with repeaters and high profile failures?
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Didn't Johnny G have his wife belay him on it? She might have a few anecdotes...
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I thought the G hubble anecdote was he was driven to the crag early doors by his dad with the G kipping on the back seat. Does this mean it was pappa-G belaying, or was it a full family outing?
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Yes, exactly, we are interested in unknown anectodes, nothing that already appeared in other interviews.
Everything that constitues the aura that surround the route.
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One evening many years ago in a dingy pub in the north of Edinburgh, two of the three ascensionists ( Ben and Malc) had a drink together. The pub was completely unaware and unaffected by the event. :D
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What will it take for the uk sport climbing scene to get past Hubble?
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An ascent by Shark?
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In Grimer's podcast Megos wouldn't be drawn on a French grade and said a bouldering grade is more appropriate as the hard bit is 6 moves.
Yes, he's probably being polite. Given that the Frankenjura is spiritual home of the bolted boulder with a route grade, I'd have thought he would be comfortable with the concept.
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I've not seen Hubble in the flesh. Is the landing too poor to pad out? Or is the hard bit too high? Perhaps it needs to be highballed, given 8B, and then we can all move on to gushing about some hard climbing.
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The landing under hubble is a sort of sloping area of small steps. Don't think it's unpaddable, but with crux moves on undercuts, feet high, I bet you could fire off backwards and take some uncontrolled falls. But it's got bolts so literally no reason to do this. You'd also have to get down from the Revelations belay, which would require a harness and rope anyway.
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Plus, it's already been done:
http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html (http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html)
:worms: :shit:
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Yes, exactly, we are interested in unknown anectodes, nothing that already appeared in other interviews.
Everything that constitues the aura that surround the route.
If the anecdotes are not widely known then how can they be adding to the aura of the route? :-\
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The landing under hubble is a sort of sloping area of small steps. Don't think it's unpaddable, but with crux moves on undercuts, feet high, I bet you could fire off backwards and take some uncontrolled falls.
Yep, I reckon falling off sans cord all crimped up in those undercuts would leave you somewhere near cheedale.
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Yes, exactly, we are interested in unknown anectodes, nothing that already appeared in other interviews.
Everything that constitues the aura that surround the route.
If the anecdotes are not widely known then how can they be adding to the aura of the route? :-\
There are anecdotal anecdotes, a bit like unknown unknowns.
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There are anecdotal anecdotes
Ah, I get it, gossip. :clown:
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Plus, it's already been done:
http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html (http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html)
:worms: :shit:
Who is this? Am I being dim?
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An ascent by Shark?
:rtfm: That was between you and me. I climb for myself not public recognition. Its not a competition. Now everyone will just be after proof, proof, proof. Its pathetic. Stuff them all. It is the beauty of the line that interests me. And the MOVE. The hard work paid off. It was amazing the way it all came together on the day. I'm just happy knowing I've done it. And that's enough
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An ascent by Shark?
:rtfm: That was between you and me. I climb for myself not public recognition. Its not a competition. Now everyone will just be after proof, proof, proof. Its pathetic. Stuff them all. It is the beauty of the line that interests me. And the MOVE. The hard work paid off. It was amazing the way it all came together on the day. I'm just happy knowing I've done it. And that's enough
8c+ or 9a?
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You'd also have to get down from the Revelations belay, which would require a harness and rope anyway.
How did M. le Menestrel do it then?
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Dunno, presume there was a rope in place.
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An ascent by Shark?
I'm just happy knowing I've done it. And that's enough
So it's 8b then?
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Dunno, presume there was a rope in place.
Maybe he topped out !
It's about time some frenchies came over and soloed it.
Then ste mac can go and climb the buoux bombe bleu project and call it Joan of Arc burn baby burn
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Dunno, presume there was a rope in place.
Maybe he topped out !
Or casually reversed the route back to the ground.
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Yes, exactly, we are interested in unknown anectodes, nothing that already appeared in other interviews.
Everything that constitues the aura that surround the route.
If the anecdotes are not widely known then how can they be adding to the aura of the route? :-\
Jesusfuckingchrist Slackers, you're so boring.
Because what really fascinates us is the myth, the legend, the small details that are passed by only in random conversations. Something vaguely mysterious and uncertain.
An aura is undefined, it is there but not clear in its margins.
What is widely known and accepted does not necessarily constitute the aura, but the reputation, that is based on facts.
Disclaimer: I don't want to sound offensive, but I found your post really irritating. Maybe I'm overreacting.
EDITED FOR GRAMMAR
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Oh, and sorry for mistyping the title, could some Overlord correct it?
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Jesusfuckingchrist Slackers, you're so boring.
Thank you.
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Oh, and sorry for mistyping the title, could some Overlord correct it?
Antidotes ?
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An ascent by Shark?
:rtfm: That was between you and me. I climb for myself not public recognition. Its not a competition. Now everyone will just be after proof, proof, proof. Its pathetic. Stuff them all. It is the beauty of the line that interests me. And the MOVE. The hard work paid off. It was amazing the way it all came together on the day. I'm just happy knowing I've done it. And that's enough
8c+ or 9a?
Hard to tell - it was quite greasy. Probably 9a+ in the conditions. Still not as hard as VNB though. And I don't care about grades. It's the challenge. And the line. And the Move. And of course the people -although there wasn't anybody there that day. Sometimes it's about the solitude
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An ascent by Shark?
:rtfm: That was between you and me. I climb for myself not public recognition. Its not a competition. Now everyone will just be after proof, proof, proof. Its pathetic. Stuff them all. It is the beauty of the line that interests me. And the MOVE. The hard work paid off. It was amazing the way it all came together on the day. I'm just happy knowing I've done it. And that's enough
8c+ or 9a?
Hard to tell - it was quite greasy. Probably 9a+ in the conditions. Still not as hard as VNB though. And I don't care about grades. It's the challenge. And the line. And the Move. And of course the people -although there wasn't anybody there that day. Sometimes it's about the solitude
and the film crew
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Hard to tell - it was quite greasy. Probably 9a+ in the conditions. Still not as hard as VNB though. And I don't care about grades. It's the challenge. And the line. And the Move. And of course the people -although there wasn't anybody there that day. Sometimes it's about the solitude
I know I am an unengaging chap, but completely forgetting about my presence seems a bit remiss. Don't you remember - I didn't have a guidebook, so I did that route you recommended - next to the one you were on - can't quite recall the name - Brandenburg thingummy? Really dusty and unclimbed seeming - climbed nicely though - you got a bit huffy and said I lanked it?
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Hard to tell - it was quite greasy. Probably 9a+ in the conditions. Still not as hard as VNB though. And I don't care about grades. It's the challenge. And the line. And the Move. And of course the people -although there wasn't anybody there that day. Sometimes it's about the solitude
I know I am an unengaging chap, but completely forgetting about my presence seems a bit remiss. Don't you remember - I didn't have a guidebook, so I did that route you recommended - next to the one you were on - can't quite recall the name - Brandenburg thingummy? Really dusty and unclimbed seeming - climbed nicely though - you got a but huffy and said I lanked it?
Don't know who you are or what planet you are from, there there are only three people who can pull on those holds: Me, myself and G
Delusional mentalist
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You'd also have to get down from the Revelations belay, which would require a harness and rope anyway.
How did M. le Menestrel do it then?
From Peak Rock:
He had left a rope attached to the belay, so he could get back to the ground.
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Yeah its all coming back now. Used to see Grimer there a lot. We used to call him G on account of that being the first letter of his name. Not the brightest though. Said he wanted to be a writer. How we laughed. But his footwork was fucking GENIUS. He struggled on Hubble though. Must have took him four, five maybe even six hours. I told him - you can stuff your fancy footwork - you need POWER. That spurred him on. Then he disappeared off the scene. Wonder whatever happened to him? Happy days
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Yeah its all coming back now. Used to see Grimer there a lot. We used to call him G on account of that being the first letter of his name. Not the brightest though. Said he wanted to be a writer. How we laughed. Might have been thick but his footwork was fucking GENIUS. He struggled on Hubble though. Must have took him four, five maybe even six hours. I told him - you can stuff your fancy footwork - you need POWER. That spurred him on. Then he disappeared off the scene. Wonder whatever happened to him? Happy days
He got bored after flashing the Oak ;)