UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: mark20 on February 05, 2014, 06:52:51 pm
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Couple of new things on the Upper Tier at Hallmoor Quarry. Easiest approach is to stay on the track past the main quarry and cut back left level with the Upper Tier. Both are worthwhile and clean, it took alot of effort to get rid of the brambles, a pre-placed rope useful to get up the banks at the top of the routes.
There's an obvious unclimbed arete to the right of Evil Dead, and a couple of easier things over to the left...
Evil Dead E5 6a
The sharp arete
FA Mark Rankine
Photo of Neil on it
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/12309142036_d75af3c06c_z.jpg)
Mental Art E7 6b
The big blunt arete with a scary move to finish
FA Neil Furniss
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/12309141956_ac451860c4_z.jpg)
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Good work youth. Is one of these the unclimbed arete mentioned in the Froggatt to Black Rocks guide?
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Yeh, I think the 'Clean unclimbed arete' is Mental Art
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Another angle on Mental Art
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7375/12328847264_1865d11e88_c.jpg)
And Mark on the FA of Evil Dead
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2833/12328393745_a0c5b7551a_c.jpg)
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Looks fun. Last time I went it was still being worked, has that all finished now?
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Seems to have went two years ago and was quite a lot of growth in the base of the quarry then doesn't look like its been worked for a long time now
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brambleballin'
nice one keen youths
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Apologies for the retro claim but the illustrious Tim marsh flashed mental art after watching friend peted top rope it in nov/dec. he was going to claim it when he thought of a name but couldn't think of a good one. Peted repeated it a week or so later. They thought e6/7.
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OK heres a :worms:. The route really didn't look as if it had seen any cleaning and took a fair bit before climbing the finishing hold was covered in mud which needed scraping of. As CarlisleSlapper's thread earlier this year was saying it's perfectly legit in modern day climbing to ask for proof as most people carry a camera and if this had already been climbed I'd love to see a vid or photos of a very bold onsight!
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didn't look as if it had seen any cleaning … covered in mud which needed scraping off
This is the illustrious Tim Marsh we're talking about!
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Forgive me but I don't know the guy. Is covered in mud his usual style?
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The Illustrious Scut at the same venue was named after him due it's extreme, well, scuttiness… There's been some fairly wild weather and a lot of rain lately. Given the large amount of mud and veg washing down from the top of the climbs, it's feasible the route could have returned to nature within the space of a few weeks.
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Tom Marsh = Scut? I don't doubt anything now! Still would be great to see some photos or footage
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hi nan - many apologise, should have flagged this up sooner but never got round to it. I'm afraid I don't have any videos or photos. Mental art is fine by me.
It's a surprisingly good route so people should get on it before they reveal the next tier......
For the record we also did an amazingly loose hvs crack thing to the left... Tom I will name this after the gritstone gecko you are
"declan swann" hvs 5b - rather dirty crack some way left of mental art with big pile of rubble underneath. Probably best avoided but does stay remarkably dry in the rain. Tim Marsh, Pete Davies sometime in dec/nov 2013
tim marsh
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Nice to get the info from the horse's mouth, Mental Art suits it especially with a flashed first ascent. Who knows if you had reported it sooner it might have gone a lot longer before a repeat, you know how these things are, shame though cos it is a really good route and well worth doing.
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rather dirty crack some way left of mental arete with big pile of rubble underneath. Probably best avoided but does stay remarkably dry in the rain.
uk trad, brilliant.
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Hi nan. I can confirm that scut nicked fa of mental art off me. I spent ages fighting through brambles to set up the top rope, cleaning it and working out a sequence only for him to step in and flash it!
I did 2 other things on an earlier visit. A route up the wall between pete whittaker's de nada and the hvs to the right (public view). It starts on a grass ledge at a short flake. Truth or dare, e3 5c. We also did what the guide describes as an unclimbed chimney up the corner between public view and soft parade. This one is a Beauty! Hvs 5a with 2 distinct cruxes, the 10 ft of brambles at the start and the 20 ft of brambles at the top. Some quite good climbing in between, some loose rock.