UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Ru on September 02, 2013, 10:33:40 am
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The line between Kali Yuga and Countdown starting midway between those routes below an undercut. 15 moves with no crux to a jug, then an easier finish. Near perfect rock (one hold snapped and was repaired). Thought it might be 8b when i first tried it, felt about 7c+ when I did it, so 8a+ is a guess.
Its an old project that I first played on just after doing Kali Yuga, but didn't get round to doing. It was then rebolted by Jon Clarke a few years ago but not completed. Climbed with his permission.
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Nice one. Cant believe it wasn't done earlier. Originally bolted and tried by Chris Wright coming in from countdown at around 8a.
This was originally bolted prior to when i bolted what became Kali Yugi.
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Is this the project that had labels stuck over it's description in a guide a few years back? If so, what was that all about?
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I don't know nuffing about the guide but this deserves to become a classic. Really good moves...
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Is this the project that had labels stuck over it's description in a guide a few years back? If so, what was that all about?
The labels all over the guide were included at the last minute to prevent legal action. It was a disaster of a guidebook and (probably) led to why Grimer was hired and the great BMC publications we have now.
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The line between Kali Yuga and Countdown starting midway between those routes below an undercut. 15 moves with no crux to a jug, then an easier finish. Near perfect rock (one hold snapped and was repaired). Thought it might be 8b when i first tried it, felt about 7c+ when I did it, so 8a+ is a guess.
effort Ru! "7c+" my ass.
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Effort Ru, bet its 8b ;)
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Is this the project that had labels stuck over it's description in a guide a few years back? If so, what was that all about?
The labels all over the guide were included at the last minute to prevent legal action. It was a disaster of a guidebook and (probably) led to why Grimer was hired and the great BMC publications we have now.
I never peeled the labels off mine - wasn't it about somebody supposedly slagging gary gibson off or summert like that?
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The labels were impossible to get off. As far as I understand it was about the guidebook writers and publishers facing a libel charge from a new route developer and retroing of trad routes.
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And good effort Ru!