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the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Tommy on April 06, 2013, 10:37:22 pm

Title: [Huevo Uno][E6 6b/Font 6c+][Turning Stone Edge]
Post by: Tommy on April 06, 2013, 10:37:22 pm
On the Umbongo Buttress there's an obvious roof at the right end, which has a shipwreck flake on the underside (5m right of River of Life?). Make a hard move to access the flake off the back wall, then make yourself weigh as little as possible and with some jiggery gain the lip and headwall above. Some lovely scalloped crimps and crux lie above...

It's either an E6 6b or Highball Font 6c+. Whatever takes your fancy.

I let my daughter name this one again. Something tells me she has a thing about eggs  :)
Title: Re: [Huevo Uno][E6 6b/Font 6c+][Turning Stone Edge]
Post by: Bonjoy on April 07, 2013, 08:28:58 am
Nice.
Had that one down on my list as 'River of Death' on account of the landing.
Title: Re: [Huevo Uno][E6 6b/Font 6c+][Turning Stone Edge]
Post by: Tommy on April 07, 2013, 09:32:07 am
Ah damn, that's a good name. Wish I'd thought of that.

Title: Re: [Huevo Uno][E6 6b/Font 6c+][Turning Stone Edge]
Post by: Bonjoy on April 07, 2013, 08:00:25 pm
Saw on UKC that your mate did the prow proj right of the big roof. Great stuff. What was the gear he mentioned? Can't recall seeing anything useful.
Title: Re: [Huevo Uno][E6 6b/Font 6c+][Turning Stone Edge]
Post by: Tommy on April 07, 2013, 08:35:19 pm
He put a friend 1 in at the start and a double zero?? Not much good other than for the first couple of moves. I went on the route after him and it's quite a nice set of moves - not too hard, but you'd not want to fall off the top as it's guarantee deck.

Think eatswood needs a couple of things cleaning up next. Some great crags in that area!
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