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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Jim on October 22, 2007, 04:22:08 pm

Title: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on October 22, 2007, 04:22:08 pm
Though I'd share my joy with everyone.
I've just got back from burbage north having ticked blind fig, a long held ambition.
Haven't stop grinning yet.
I've finally done a 7c in the peak that's not going to be downgraded - get in!
 ;D ;D ;D ;D


Oh yeah and it was witnessed an'all
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 22, 2007, 04:25:04 pm
Nice one. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 22, 2007, 04:29:41 pm
AndiT says it's 7b...

Seriously though, good effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on October 22, 2007, 04:33:39 pm
Effort Jim.

Sorry I didn't reply to your text. I've been at work all day. This actually involved going to Higgar this afternoon, and I even commented that someone was at Remergence, conditions seemed peachy.

Definitley  proper 7c.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on October 22, 2007, 04:36:53 pm
Monster  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: monkey boy on October 22, 2007, 04:39:26 pm
Have a waddage mate, wish i could of come out but stripping paint off windows was just soooo much fun! haha!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on October 22, 2007, 04:44:08 pm
Nice one lad! Campus next? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on October 22, 2007, 05:08:13 pm
I've finally done a 7c in the peak that's not going to be downgraded

the holy grail. nice one beast, good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on October 22, 2007, 05:10:52 pm
I've finally done a 7c in the peak that's not going to be downgraded

the holy grail. nice one beast, good effort.

isn't that an 8a?
anyway, good effort jim, quick ascent, faster than blind date!
would've loved to join you but i had multiple dates with the toilet. hospital canteens bad news.
anyway, what next beat and what you doing next tuesday/wednesday?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on October 22, 2007, 05:12:20 pm
I'm working that dirty fucking shift all week ie nights.
Will be out on friday afternoon
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Houdini on October 22, 2007, 05:42:21 pm
Smart.

I'll bake a cake!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on October 22, 2007, 05:48:01 pm
I'm working that dirty fucking shift all week ie nights.
Will be out on friday afternoon
i'll be sorting out the foolish or the unlucky
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on October 22, 2007, 05:52:16 pm
I've finally done a 7c in the peak that's not going to be downgraded

the holy grail. nice one beast, good effort.

isn't that an 8a?

not in my world, sugar.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 22, 2007, 06:48:09 pm
thought it was a nibile thread at first. nice one kes
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 22, 2007, 07:30:52 pm
nice one jim!!!!
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 22, 2007, 07:54:40 pm
Nice one  :bow:
I'd lke to get 7c this year. Your post has enthused me further  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on October 22, 2007, 08:21:40 pm
Effort big man. And all without any fuel.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on October 22, 2007, 09:20:05 pm
That Jim, he's so hot right now
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 22, 2007, 09:31:38 pm
That Jim, he's so hot right now

When Jim loses his training belly he'll be mashing up 8bs.  :lol:

Well done Jim   :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 22, 2007, 09:41:56 pm
Was it fun?


P.S. We need a general YYFY thread for everyone's celebrations I think, maybe Nibile should start it and it should be made a sticky?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: John Cooke on October 22, 2007, 10:20:32 pm
Effort Jim! Good tick! You must be going well?! Been hanging out at the temple, or just dieting?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on October 22, 2007, 11:40:42 pm
Effort Jim! Good tick! You must be going well?! Been hanging out at the temple, or just dieting?

lol,

nice one jim
can you do a one armer yet
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on October 23, 2007, 05:33:54 am
Bon Effort Jim! Persistence has its rewards.  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: bigphil on October 23, 2007, 08:36:07 am
Nice one Fella!.  Your an inspiration  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 25, 2008, 06:21:13 pm
Thought I might as well blow my own trumpet (like Cofe) again as I have achieved another long held ambition and done rock atrocity today.
YES YES FUCKING YES!!!!
I finally got to try some other problems in the cave for a change

Oh yeah, it was witnessed as well
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 25, 2008, 06:48:05 pm
Well done Jim.
What's next?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 25, 2008, 09:05:19 pm
Rock Attrocity without the weight belt I suppose J?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on June 25, 2008, 09:09:35 pm
WTF! I go away for a couple of days and Jim does RA.  Fuckin A

Where's Dense?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: unclesomebody on June 25, 2008, 09:12:44 pm
Rock Attrocity without the weight belt I suppose J?

How could he possibly do it without the weight belt? We all know it's permanently attached... and this isn't a dig! Quite the contrary, this makes it all the more impressive! Who else could do it with weight added to the sum total of 13 stone??? Not I!!! GO JIM!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 25, 2008, 10:31:14 pm
Had an extra weight belt on today as had curry take out Monday and Chinese take out last night and currently shoving toast with a lakes worth of molten butter down my gob as I type. current weight back up to 13 1/2 stone  >:(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 25, 2008, 10:38:42 pm
Good effort! although texting Dobbin to show how nice the weather is in wales when we were looking out at blanket rain was a tad harsh!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 25, 2008, 10:52:57 pm
sorry about that. it was raining when we got there and had drove through some heavy rain but it soon turned into glorious sunshine and was sunbathing while resting
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on June 26, 2008, 08:02:02 am
Well bloody done beast. You have now officially burnt me off!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 26, 2008, 01:06:32 pm
good good effort, really impressive.
go on!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 26, 2008, 01:20:20 pm
That is a bloody good effort. I'm finding it hard enough to climb 7C as it is. If I strapped 3 stone on then I doubt I'd get up a 7A.

Nice one Jim. Drop some weight and crush 8B.   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on June 26, 2008, 01:46:55 pm
Good effort Jim! Welcome to the 'Rock Atrocity 13 stoners' club (a pretty exclusive organisation, i.e. it's just you and me kid, unless somebody else knows different).
 
I nearly came over to the Ormes last night, but went crag checking at Benllech instead as I thought it would be too warm. Maybe it was, and maybe you were just on fire!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jimbo on June 26, 2008, 02:04:46 pm
I am definitely in that club. Possibly the original member.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 26, 2008, 02:17:55 pm
Thought I might as well blow my own trumpet (like Cofe) again as I have achieved another long held ambition and done rock atrocity today.
YES YES FUCKING YES!!!!
I finally got to try some other problems in the cave for a change

Oh yeah, it was witnessed as well

With which downturn shoes though, Dragons?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on June 26, 2008, 04:08:00 pm
I am definitely in that club. Possibly the original member.

Good man!

'96 or '97 for me I think? Leo and Tim Emmett were there. Leo couldn't do it; clearly too skinny. He needed to beef himself right up with a pie and pint diet!  :beer1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 26, 2008, 04:15:34 pm
With the dragons. They are awesome. Am still going to get some solutions at some point I think.

Leo can't beef himself up for shit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 29, 2008, 12:17:59 am
I've had a bit of YYFY myself today, I know it's not as massive a send as RA but I finally got Gorilla Warfare after a seriously long time.

This is a problem that:

I selected specifically as it's completely not my style (thuggy steep shizz) and I wanted to get better at it

I nearly had sorted but then had a v scary fall as a result of snapping off one of the top crimps

Has shat me up ever since

I finally did today

A pint of beer has rarely tasted so good as the one I drank tonight. I drink to YYFY and all that have felt it. I know this feeling will be gone in the morning but I'll be enjoying it while it lasts.

Peace.

TTT



Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richdraws on June 29, 2008, 09:56:53 am
Nice work! GW is a great problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 30, 2008, 05:10:02 pm
Word.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 21, 2008, 08:11:30 pm
 :thumbsup:Had quite a YYFY few days. :thumbsup:
Vitruvian Man (7c) at Trowbarrow on Saturday
Then today:
Started with Poison (7c) at Warton
Then E-fix (7c?) twice at Warton - question mark because it is graded 7c+/8a but felt the same as poison to me

Sadly didn't quite manage Iron Man (8a) at Trowbarrow but next time, and that really will be yes yes fucking yes

Only really started getting out again regularly about 5 months ago and was delighted with sprokling up an occasional 7a at the time. Never thought I'd climb 7c again, and maybe (just maybe) 8a....

Good times :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 21, 2008, 09:33:00 pm
Numbers numbers, nice one, that Vitruvian looked a bit steep for a slab.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 21, 2008, 09:41:33 pm
Well they were really nice problems also obviously, but it's always nice to reach a new number, or even revisit a long forgotten one. I'm trying to broaden my scope slightly beyond slabs, still staying well clear of cracks mind.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on July 21, 2008, 10:17:47 pm
Cracks are where the money is at.

(very dodgy emoction and -ve karma)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 28, 2008, 12:25:41 pm
YYFY was going on last night. Did Our Father's Arete at Caley then went on to crush New Jerusalem. Felt a bit easy, mind. Think its cos I can reach the high gaston from the floor standing on my tippy toes. All my own beta too
 :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on July 28, 2008, 01:01:29 pm
i hope you didn't pull on with the high gaston on NJ or you've missed 50% of the moves.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on July 28, 2008, 01:47:29 pm
i hope you didn't pull on with the high gaston on NJ or you've missed 50% of the moves.

Oh the irony!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on July 28, 2008, 01:49:06 pm
whatever girlfriend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 01, 2008, 06:15:17 pm
i hope you didn't pull on with the high gaston on NJ or you've missed 50% of the moves.

Daaaaaaaamn straight!

Stand on tippy toes and get the gaston and lower crimp.
Take the big foothold low down for the right and pull on.
Left toe up and out to a dish thing.
Right foot up onto the massive diagonal ledge thing.
Undercut the block with left.
Span up and right to the rail.
Jug on the top.

Pish.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on August 01, 2008, 06:23:15 pm
i hope you didn't pull on with the high gaston on NJ or you've missed 50% of the moves.

Daaaaaaaamn straight!

Stand on tippy toes and get the gaston and Jug on the top.

Pish.
:whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on August 02, 2008, 06:48:05 am
Well done for doing a 6A and two moves of 7A, imagine what a YYFY moment it will be when you complete the problem...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 18, 2008, 09:14:54 am
As I have neither 8a.spray scorecard nor blog to boast on I shall utilise this thread to shout about the fact that yesterday afternoon I crushed The Pinch at Crag X. Having got close on my third attempt a couple of weeks ago, I had been thwarted by the fact that the whole place was a minging wet mess when I'd been since then. Went for a speculative look yesterday and despite there being wet streaks all over the place, miraculously all the holds were dry. Managed to dry off some of the rest of the rock (so I didn't get my left hand covered in slime) and fourth go my foot stayed in the slot for the first move, I pulled like a bastard and destroyed the fucking thing. Yes yes fucking yes, it's 16 years since I did this problem and it was always one of my favourites. Like Nik says I didn't really think I'd get anywhere near 7C when I started climbing again so getting two proper ones in the bag so far this year is most pleasing. It's RAD, I'm SYKED and I don't care who punters me!  ;D

Incidentally, I've read that this used to get 7C+ for using an "approved sequence" (which certainly isn't what I did). It sort of rings a bell but what's the "approved sequence"? Oh and does the sit start get 7C+ as it doesn't look like it'd add that much (I could be wrong!)?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on September 18, 2008, 09:29:32 am
Nice one Jasper!! :great: I have tried this once or twice, although am saving it until I have done Moffatrocity so have not really put much effort into it. I am mightily surprised you got lucky with the dampness although having said that its seems to be always worth a look - I know Tyler did the Thing last summer in the monsoon when the crag was piss wet but there were some random dry streaks where the holds were.

I am afraid I know nothing about the sit start as am not really a regular of the crag that doth not speak its name. Hopefully some locals will shed some light on it...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 18, 2008, 09:36:23 am
Cheers Ted. Yeah there were rivers running down parts of the crag and The Pinch was basically the only problem with no wet holds. Seans was ok apart from the RH finishing edge which I dried out with a towel and chalk only to see it get dripped on almost immediately.  >:( The Hulk was workable but the finish was soaked and The Thing looked ok. As you say, always worth a look!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on September 18, 2008, 09:44:46 am
well done beast - I was at rubbercon and wondered about popping in before coming home - kinda figured it would probably be wet. I thought the pinch was 7c+, first I've heard that its 7c tbh. Nice work whatever it is.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on September 18, 2008, 09:49:25 am
The Thing looked ok. As you say, always worth a look!

No doubt the juggy hold was full of slime though. Good effort Jasper.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: travs on September 18, 2008, 10:08:06 am
Nice one Jasper, I think 7c is spot on the money for The Pinch especially if you're going to give Hulk 7c+ and this is definitely a good grade harder. My understanding was that The Pinch sitter was 7c+ it certainly feels it. I know it looks like it doesn't add a lot but its something about being hugged into the rock at the start rather than swinging up off a big thick mat. Is this next on your ever decreasing tick list?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 18, 2008, 10:24:56 am
Thinking about it I can see what you mean Neil. I did have to try quite hard so adding moves in is going to make the sitter trickier! I'll certainly have a bash. The ticklist never decreases by the way.  ;)

The way I did it was pull on with the two crimps RF on edge below the big ledges LF in the slot, sort of pulling sideways. LH to the pinch, RH to the pinchy ear thing. Move RF up to good ledge, RH to higher pinchy thing LF up on something good, LH to the jug etc. To me this was ok for 7C. As I say, if there's an approved sequence that's harder then maybe that's where 7C+ comes in?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: travs on September 18, 2008, 10:30:22 am
I'm pretty cetain that's the way everyone does it except for Ben who showed me his sequence which involved right hand on crimp, right foot on said blocky edge. Then jump from the ground straight to the pinch with left hand. I tried this and even though it seems crazy to start with it does actually work, but still 7c.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 18, 2008, 11:56:05 am
Nice one Jaspeer.
Another oldie comes good (or least slightly above average, well OK pretty average but these youngsters have the advantage of modern training walls etc etc etc :)).
Keep the crush going. My new focus is an 8a in Font on my trip there next Easter (although I'd like to do an 8a over here before going). There I've said it out loud....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on September 18, 2008, 11:59:31 am
You've gone and done it now.  You have targets to meet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i.munro on September 18, 2008, 12:06:12 pm
Can I add my congratulations to the chorus (from between gritted teeth)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on September 18, 2008, 12:27:52 pm
Good stuff! This thread makes me want to climb NOW!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 18, 2008, 12:35:17 pm
Keep the crush going. My new focus is an 8a in Font on my trip there next Easter (although I'd like to do an 8a over here before going). There I've said it out loud....

Neck well and truly stuck out! Best of luck with that.

For me 8A in Font is the Holy Grail. I'm sure I can get there if I could just commit myself to actually doing some proper training (and drink a little less booze perhaps). However having done neither so far I'm not putting a time goal on it as two hours of bumbling about twice a week is not going to get me to 8A strength.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i.munro on September 18, 2008, 12:56:40 pm
two hours of bumbling about twice a week is not going to get me to 8A strength.

It seems to have got you to 7c strength. (even more tightly gritted teeth)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 18, 2008, 01:08:07 pm
Yeah, whats your usual tipple Jasper?  Might try some and see if it improves my grade (unlikely, but you never know)  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 20, 2008, 01:34:28 pm
Cristal, what else?

(http://i33.tinypic.com/5wcr5i.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 23, 2008, 04:11:05 pm
Did Archangel yesterday.
Incredibly YYFY when I reached the break. It just felt so full on, the boldest, wildest, most uncompromising thing I've ever done. The moves may only be 5b and on a top rope would be simple but its sustained I think and the way you're in a layback position above a bad landing means falling is unthinkable. I needed to chalk my right hand but couldn't get it off the rock long enough. Every move was just desperately small, I wanted to get to the gear as fast as possible but the longer you make the moves the less in balance it feels so I had to keep inching up agonisingly slowly. And as for comparing it to Crescent Arete - its so different. The arete on Archangel is a much better hold but unlike Crescent there is NOTHING else but the arete. And none of the foot movements were in control. It was just a series of small stabs onto the arete. Foot slipped and skidded near the top and I nearly shat but when I got to the break and put in the Friend I broke down into uncontrollable laughter. It was so at my limit and I didnt know I was going to make it until I finally did.

Sorry for the self indulgent post but I had to share it. Although it can't have taken me more than one or two minutes to reach the break I can definitely say that that brief time was the most intense of my life.

Cheers
 :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 23, 2008, 04:34:48 pm
Good effort Will. No need to apologise, I think doing Archangel for the first time is almost always a pretty unique, full-on experience.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Houdini on November 23, 2008, 04:45:02 pm
I'm sure I can get there ... (and drink a little less booze perhaps)

You think drinking less ever helped Chris Davies?

You need some meat on your bones  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 23, 2008, 07:31:01 pm
Did Archangel yesterday.

Sorry for the self indulgent post but I had to share it. Although it can't have taken me more than one or two minutes to reach the break I can definitely say that that brief time was the most intense of my life.

Cheers
 :beer2:


Nice one Will. Was that yesterday afternoon about 1:00pm?. Did you have a black/red fleece and grey helmet on? I was watching you with some mates and gave you a round of applause when you got the break.

nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 23, 2008, 07:48:17 pm
That's a red letter day for anyone. Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 23, 2008, 08:12:38 pm
That sounds about right Falling Down. Wearing my red hoody and helmet. Thought I heard a bit of applause when I got there but thought it was someone doing Brad Pit. Cheers!
Who was the DFBWGC attempting BP?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 23, 2008, 09:51:19 pm
There were a lot of UKB'ers down in the pit at that point so you'll have to ask. I was attempting the hanging arête up and L off BP with Jim and a couple of mates.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 23, 2008, 09:57:37 pm
was anyone not at stanage that day?
are you refering to me FD? you should of introduced yourself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 23, 2008, 10:04:35 pm
was anyone not at stanage that day?

 :guilty:
Had the little darlings.

On a separate note, I saw someone come off Don a few weeks back.  Just before the end of difficulties, foot popped and the guy flew off into the Groove.  Nasty fall, but he seemed OK.
Good effort Will.  What's next? 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 23, 2008, 10:13:14 pm
was anyone not at stanage that day?
are you refering to me FD? you should of introduced yourself.

Yeah that was me.  The short stumpy with short dark hair in old S7 pants, brown Marvin Gaye t-shirt, black fleece and anastazi velcros struggling to do your direct step on method to deliverance and then later succeeding on that nice little hanging arete we did above BP.

I don't know why I didn't introduce myself  :-[ My real name is Ben

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 23, 2008, 10:14:02 pm
Bon effort Will. And nice one on resurecting the YYFY thread. We need more YYFY's, come on guys, who else has crushed of late. Surely if everyone (apart from GCW and I) was at Stanage on the best day of the year then there must have been more YYFY's....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SamD on November 23, 2008, 10:15:42 pm
In relation to BP as far as i am aware a guy called remi was the only one of us down in the pit at that point to succeed and get a round of applause, unless it was me shouting after falling off the finishing jug lol.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 23, 2008, 10:17:20 pm
Nice skills Sam :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 23, 2008, 10:19:15 pm
it was remmelt, one of the dutch mafia on a flying visit, he did brad pit, the storm, the joker and pissed up wss 2nd go. not bad.
Today we went to stockport wall, needless to say he wasn't impressed.
We should look to the dutch when it comes to making indoor walls as thats all they climb on apart from going to font every so often
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on November 23, 2008, 10:23:06 pm
Good effort Will.  What's next?  

Party time! Everyone 'round Wills for a laugh, a joke and a bit of a
(http://www.makeyougoblind.com/Images/Issue%203/crackhead-michael.jpg)
(Well done Will)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 23, 2008, 10:24:24 pm
It was a shame that every foothold was covered in chalk, even the high smear on deliverance. wtf is that about, was there a pandemic of cataracts that day or something??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oli on November 23, 2008, 10:27:05 pm
I did T-Crack yesterday, my first 'proper' 7B. I was reet chuffed especially as I thought I wouldn't be able to link my gash campus sequence.

I reckon if anyone wasn't at Stanage, they must have been at Cratcliffe/RHS as it was rammed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 23, 2008, 10:27:33 pm
Chris Shamra has done a study that showed a combination of Evolv rubber and chalky holds gives the best friction.  You not follow SCIENCE?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carnage on November 23, 2008, 11:04:17 pm
Mines not as good a Wills' but I did my first problem after 6 months laid off. It was a sub V0 that I brushed up at a new place. The sun was shining, the breeze was cool, my shoulder felt good- I was a happy man.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 23, 2008, 11:15:26 pm
What's next? 

Not Don, White Wand, Ulysses Bow or Unfamiliar that's for sure  :lol:
For me Archangel was all about the line. If it had been about the number I would have got on Don. I think I've had my fill of that kind of thing for now but am inspired to believe I've got what it takes for some similar grade face climbing.
I've been looking at Whisky Wall for a while now and telling myself that the reason I don't just do it is because I'm not that inspired to do it. Post-Archangel I reckon I could do Whisky Wall so am thinking I could use my euphoria and SYKE to go for it.


Oh, and if doing this kind of think is what it takes to get back to neutral cumulative Karma then I might just stick to being the whipping boy  ;)
Was belayed on Archangel by the lady who had the lamb shanks who beasted out a VDiff and her first Severe. Props to her too  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 23, 2008, 11:21:18 pm
@ Carnage - Balls to the grade! Any personal milestone is a milestone. Effort on getting out after a lay-off, you must be psyched.

In retrospect there was a fair bit of YYFY around. That foreign fella topped out The Joker while me and friend were desperately trying to keep warm near Paradise Wall and there was a guy who topped something out, did a jig and called down to his mates "4 YEARS!". Bon effort to them all  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carnage on November 23, 2008, 11:32:21 pm
Thanks! - super psyched. Now I've got a brand new shoulder to go out and destroy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on November 24, 2008, 12:47:59 am
This thread is awesome. I got up bright and early on Friday morn and had deliverance in the bag by 9am. Mustve tried it about 100 times. I too noticed all the chalk on the footholds though - way to add to the polish eh? Had a bash on Zippy's too and just couldn't finish it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on November 24, 2008, 08:07:39 am
I reckon if anyone wasn't at Stanage, they must have been at Cratcliffe/RHS as it was rammed.

Well they weren't at Slipstones that's for sure - it was deserted up there yesterday.

bluebrad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 24, 2008, 08:20:59 am
Quote
there was a guy who topped something out, did a jig and called down to his mates "4 YEARS!". Bon effort to them all

That was Worm on The Storm. A fine effort, and a good jig.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Houdini on November 24, 2008, 09:10:28 am
Similar to seeing some journo-type (forget the name) doing Banana Finger after trying it for 25 years.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on November 24, 2008, 09:51:08 am
Similar to seeing some journo-type (forget the name) doing Banana Finger after trying it for 25 years.

It was Ed Douglas - happiest man in Sheffield that night!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on November 24, 2008, 10:00:14 am
Who was the DFBWGC attempting BP?

Johnny Footwork having a bad day?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on November 24, 2008, 10:42:23 am
Rachel I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on November 24, 2008, 11:35:55 am
Who was the DFBWGC attempting BP?

 :kiss2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 24, 2008, 01:53:31 pm
sigh, i was denied of some YYFY yesterday, falling five (fuck*** five i say) times in a row on the last hard move of out of service sitter. dammit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 24, 2008, 02:05:24 pm
Who was the DFBWGC attempting BP?

 :kiss2:

Do you mean to say it was you?! Aren't you a boy? I demand pictures in the DFBWGC thread.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jfw on November 24, 2008, 02:19:13 pm
if T_B is tom briggs  (wild conjecture?)

.. rachel is his missus

jo
x
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 24, 2008, 03:25:08 pm
The only solution being for Tom to post some hot pics of himself for Will's benefit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 24, 2008, 03:30:05 pm
 :-*
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Charles on November 25, 2008, 03:17:29 pm
I did The Terrace today! My first 7c+! Well psyched! Missed out 7c too! (Unless you think The Terrace is 7c, I clearly have no grounds for comparison!)

Did it twice actually cos I thought I dabbed the floor the first time.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on November 25, 2008, 10:42:31 pm
 :bounce:
Cliff project goes down
 ;D
YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 25, 2008, 10:57:48 pm
This your ting right of Pistol Whip?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on November 25, 2008, 11:10:20 pm
This your ting right of Pistol Whip?
:beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 25, 2008, 11:19:36 pm
So was it 7a+ like Andi said?   :lol:
Details?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 25, 2008, 11:22:17 pm
Stop beating around the bush Andy, spit it out.
Maybe over on friday for a repeat?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 25, 2008, 11:25:18 pm
I hear there is a SlabGeniusTM, nay SlabGod, that would walk up to said problem and flash it onsight, ground up and with padding.  He's squeeking his boots as we speak.

Unfortunately he's busy on Friday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on November 26, 2008, 01:07:41 am
congrats UTG  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 26, 2008, 02:16:26 am
I never said 7a+, i postulated 7c/7c+... i bet you made it look 7a+ though.

Cool whip?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 26, 2008, 07:38:33 am
Nice one UTG. Have a wad.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on November 26, 2008, 11:02:21 am
Maybe over on friday for a repeat?
Hope it doesn't turn into a pebble wall for you Jim. ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TomP on November 26, 2008, 12:20:04 pm
Great work UTG!! :thumbsup:

I saw chalk on it t'other day and the holds look very small. I know Andy Swann (and others) had tried it a long time ago and he sure ain't no punter! I'd be keen for a go soon but I'm trying to avoid the cliff at the mo. Where you climbing at the weekend - Slipstones?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 26, 2008, 10:12:28 pm
How far right of pistol whip is it? Is it the shortish wall you pointed out when we were there?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on November 27, 2008, 09:24:14 am
How far right of pistol whip is it? Is it the shortish wall you pointed out when we were there?
I think I did point it out to you Adam, though it doesn't feel too short. I still can't walk having turned my ankle on it. I'll pop a failure clip on the cliff thread at some point to illustrate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on November 28, 2008, 09:19:29 am
Good work yoot! Looking forward to giving that a pop next time I'm over.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Iesu on November 30, 2008, 06:54:49 pm
not normally one to brag, but I did The Anchor at Brimham today with the pre-requisite "nil point" rolling over sideways top-out. lush!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on December 29, 2008, 08:56:08 am
Finally did dick williams yesterday after falling off the top for many years and then had a very good meal in the millstone afterwards. YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on December 29, 2008, 01:40:18 pm
Good effort both of you. I still need to do the anchor, I might employ some sort of dyno-belly-flop...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on December 29, 2008, 04:55:06 pm
I thought I was going to have to dredge this thread up from the past, however it would seem others have found success also. Anyway....

A
FUCKING
ENORMOUS

YYFY

As today I managed to grunt my way up Iron Man at Trowbarrow.
This is extremely pleasing for several reasons, including, but not limited to:
1) It was on my revised aims for 2008 ticklist and that deadline was looming
2) It is the very definition of the type of problem I would previously never have even tried, it being steep and made entirely of limestone
3) It is a really good problem, really good (nice one Greg).


Oh and yeah did I mention it's
8A
 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on December 29, 2008, 05:08:47 pm
 :jaw: Good effort! G said you were heading up there today! Good conditions I presume?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on December 29, 2008, 05:17:19 pm
Indeed, if anything a bit too cold as some of the holds felt glassy, but I'm not going to complain. :) The whole of the shelter stone was in the best condition I've ever seen. Every problem was dry. Get up there if you have things to tick.
Grit tomorrow hopefully.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Strife on December 29, 2008, 06:14:40 pm
I did my first V5 today - which is the kind of grade that most of you would probably use as a warm up, but it was quite a big achievement for me.
YYFY  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 29, 2008, 08:47:41 pm
Good effort all round
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on December 30, 2008, 08:53:14 am

As today I managed to grunt my way up Iron Man at Trowbarrow.

Can we expect to see a GCWarner production soon? Or is the ascent going on the next BigUp Release with the 2008 American grit rampage?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on December 30, 2008, 09:25:43 am
Iron Man was an unwitnessed ascent, Stallion.  So no evidence video exists, although I will drag the hairy one back there to repeat it on HD very soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on December 30, 2008, 12:06:06 pm
Hey well done beast! I've never heard of this ironman, although it sounds like my ideal problem for all the reasons it isn't nik's!

Heading to the lakes for nye but probably won't get time to climb. Any pics or vids out there? I haven't looked because I'm on me burberry and can't.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on December 30, 2008, 12:12:44 pm
It's the sitter to Vitruvian Man (7c)

Vitruvian Man:

http://www.vimeo.com/1366166 (http://www.vimeo.com/1366166)

http://vimeo.com/2121553 (http://vimeo.com/2121553)

http://vimeo.com/2001262 (http://vimeo.com/2001262)


Nik on a night attempt of Iron Man:

http://vimeo.com/1821537 (http://vimeo.com/1821537)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on December 30, 2008, 06:32:22 pm
Get up there Dobbin, you'd love it. Just don't go proposing any downgrades ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on December 30, 2008, 06:40:35 pm
Awesome Nik, well done mate!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on December 30, 2008, 09:15:30 pm
Ah. I think I might have done vitruvian man some time ago, so it could be on.

Heard it was 7b+ ? (HAHAHAHAHAHHAHA - I havent really, just wanted to be an arse!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 02, 2009, 09:44:46 am
Good effort shortarse.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on January 02, 2009, 10:29:01 am
Cheers Jasper.
(I pressume I'm shortarse :))

Bring on '09...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 02, 2009, 11:13:15 am
Who else?  :-*

While you've been crushing 8A I've been ill and am probably now nearer to climbing 7A.  :'(

Bring on '09...

Indeed!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jfw on January 05, 2009, 11:52:32 am
managed to shake of the xmas flu lergy enough to finally do the marie rose  :great:

YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on January 05, 2009, 01:04:27 pm
managed to shake of the xmas flu lergy enough to finally do the marie rose  :great:

YYFY!

Nice going! Good to get a nemesis crushed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 05, 2009, 01:09:34 pm
managed to shake of the xmas flu lergy enough to finally do the marie rose  :great:

YYFY!

aha so thats who you are!
Good effort by the way, what next, moondance perhaps?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on January 05, 2009, 01:13:33 pm
oh yeah, and I did Play Hard on saturday, which I'm moderately pleased about.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on January 05, 2009, 01:21:24 pm
oh yeah, and I did Play Hard on saturday, which I'm moderately pleased about.

shikading!  Did you hunt out any sharks?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on January 05, 2009, 01:22:55 pm
no chance!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jfw on January 05, 2009, 04:25:44 pm
oh yeah, and I did Play Hard on saturday, which I'm moderately pleased about.

Nice one!

Nice going! Good to get a nemesis crushed.

got a new nemesis now - 6b arete across the path from Excalibur at cuisiniere - soooo close but NNFN!



Nice going! Good to get a nemesis crushed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 05, 2009, 04:39:33 pm
You may crush nemesis, but you will never destroy him.

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/c/cf/Nemesis1.jpg/225px-Nemesis1.jpg)

(yes geeky)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on January 06, 2009, 08:22:52 am
Thanks for the pic, I've got so many nemeses, I thought it would make an appropriate avatar.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jfw on January 06, 2009, 11:34:57 am
(http://www.grimporama.com/photos/tranche05.jpg)

it's taunting me!!


NEMESIS
(http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/2226/nemesis01oc1.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 06, 2009, 05:10:56 pm
(http://www.grimporama.com/photos/tranche05.jpg)

it's taunting me!!
That looks a hundred billion times better than Marie Rose without even knowing how it climbs. Go to it!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 06, 2009, 05:38:58 pm
I have to say moondance just on the other side of the path is the same Fiendy.

(http://www.grimporama.com/photos/moonigaud00.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 06, 2009, 05:50:35 pm
That arete looks weap IN. What's it called? What's the price tag?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jfw on January 06, 2009, 06:11:33 pm
tranche de lard(e?) (slice of lard?)

6b(+?) cuisiniere

its awesome - i can get my hands to where the guy's are in that picture, then you bump your right hand back into a good hole (but i can't slap/reach straight for it for it)

if your taller/stronger you can hook round the arete with your left foot to reach up with your right - but that didn't work for me.

the sloper before the hole is hard (for me) to hold, and i kept falling off  :'(

but it will be mine - oh yes...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on January 06, 2009, 06:24:35 pm
Tranche du Lard (http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/1670.html) at Cusiniere.
6B, but if you've got the old 7+8 it's in there at 7A... bargain.
Great little problem, but very conditions dependent.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 06, 2009, 06:49:38 pm
Looks cool.

My new computers got a pretty good dictionary built in. Looked up crush and thought this was a brilliant definition for climbers:

"[To] squeeze with force or violence, typically causing serious damage"

This should be on the UKB t-shirt somewhere.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 06, 2009, 07:43:42 pm
Mmmmm lard.

Heel-hook left and bring LH up?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 08, 2009, 11:55:01 am
Finally did festin t'other day, a slight nemesis of mine.
Put left hand in further left hand hold and it was piss, did it 4th go including warming up.
Just have to go back when the top isn't covered with snow/ice and top it out to get it ticked in my guide
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: old cheese on January 08, 2009, 08:00:24 pm
so did you or did'nt you do festin then? i think without the top out you may not have done. more bad dreams and hurting arms to come methinks
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 08, 2009, 08:06:07 pm
Finally did festin t'other day, a slight nemesis of mine.
Put left hand in further left hand hold and it was piss, did it 4th go including warming up.
Just have to go back when the top isn't covered with snow/ice and top it out to get it ticked in my guide

Just kill two birds with one stone next time. Work the sitter. Then link into stand up. Bobs your uncle. Or is it Keith? I dunno.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on January 10, 2009, 09:23:43 pm
C3P0 today after about 30 attempts... get in!

 :great:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on January 11, 2009, 12:10:29 am
There was a hoard of westsiders up the Roaches today... did you have fun?
Anyone get Boba Fett done?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on January 11, 2009, 11:59:20 am
Fun.. yep.  It's the first time in ages I've got to the top of something and had a proper YYFY moment.

There was a fellow climbing Boba who got really high and then split a tip on the pebbles. He would have done it for sure as he was super steady and smooth.. shame it's now gone warm.  He gave me some very helpful beta (a step through start) for C3P0 that I tried for a while and really helped me figure out what to do but I ended up doing it without the step through.  I learned something yesterday about moving sideways up slabs that I've never really noticed before and I've been climbing on grit for nearly 20 years...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2009, 03:54:26 pm
I learned something yesterday about moving sideways up slabs that I've never really noticed before and I've been climbing on grit for nearly 20 years...


Surely that is more of a YYFY moment than the actual tick. Like finding another little drawer holding a pleasant secret. Nice one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on January 11, 2009, 08:44:02 pm
True indeed. But I wasn't jumping up and down on an icy boulder shouting 'YES!!!...' into the Lower Tier trees due to a new found insight into climbing slabs dynamically, I was just SYKED to have done something that felt impossible for years until New Years Eve and then yesterday when I really didn't know whether I would even get off the ground. But you're right.. some hard earned insight is golddust these days..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 15, 2009, 10:06:52 pm
yes yes, I did one of the forests most classic lines today berizina

get in

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_wvzmDgVDM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_wvzmDgVDM)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on January 15, 2009, 10:12:39 pm
nice! good effort!
(I'm not remotely jealous of that weather! or living in font! or not being at work!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 15, 2009, 10:15:41 pm
Jeez, I've heard that sequence described as a jump, your foot stays on!!!  (lanky  :furious:)

Only kidding... nice one neil!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 15, 2009, 10:21:21 pm
Jeez, I've heard that sequence described as a jump, your foot stays on!!!  (lanky  :furious:)

Only kidding... nice one neil!!!

keith said I would never do it that way, I decided to proove himn wrong and yes almost static
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 16, 2009, 06:27:07 am
I hate everyone
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on January 16, 2009, 07:53:05 am
Nice one Neil.
You do look tres tall in that clip, I'm beginning to think that our Saut De Puce dyno challenge at Canche may not be entirely fair... :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 16, 2009, 08:10:20 am
 ;D


why do you hate everyone jim, is it because you left font with the most perfect conditions just cause you were cold.


how are your toes by the way, defrosted yet,
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 16, 2009, 08:59:56 am
Good effort Neil!

nice! good effort!
(I'm not remotely jealous of that weather! or living in font! or not being at work!)

 :agree:  :furious:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on January 16, 2009, 09:06:42 am
i've never understood why people do that method, that first move is piss with a heel on. its just the rest after the match thats nails.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on January 16, 2009, 09:43:32 am
Good effort Neil, I remember doing Berezina and being well chuffed. Its a font rite of passage.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 16, 2009, 10:18:40 am
i've never understood why people do that method, that first move is piss with a heel on. its just the rest after the match thats nails.

i disagree there, the heel for me was the hardest bit, I spent the first day trying with the heel and only had one good shot, but the second day trying it this method was so easy for me

helps being  a little bit taller
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 16, 2009, 10:27:02 am
How tall are you Neil?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2009, 11:08:46 am
Good effort Neil, I remember doing Berezina and being well chuffed. Its a font rite of passage.


When I wer' but a youth.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 16, 2009, 11:32:14 am
i've never understood why people do that method, that first move is piss with a heel on. its just the rest after the match thats nails.

Really? I always knew about the toe, and was trying the heel method this time. I couldn't touch it. Gave the toe a couple of goes, in dragons, i might add, and a couple of goes later it was done. The top is a bit of a non issue i though?

Do you use the heel on the toe hold? Thats how Doyle did the first move, and to be fair it did look piss. In dragons too. I saw some frenchies using a hold for their heel slighly more in on a bit of a rubbish hold. Neither worked for me.  ::) And certainly not the jump way! A La Neil....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2009, 11:43:33 am
heal method

I didn't even know you were unwell!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 16, 2009, 11:49:06 am
heal method

I didn't even know you were unwell!


Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel
Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel Heel

Shouldn't happen again now!  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 16, 2009, 11:56:57 am
i've never understood why people do that method, that first move is piss with a heel on. its just the rest after the match thats nails.

the heel appeared to be a million miles to the right; jumping seemed like the way for me  :shrug: I just need to be better at swinging about on slopers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on January 16, 2009, 12:04:26 pm
i've never understood why people do that method, that first move is piss with a heel on. its just the rest after the match thats nails.

Really? I always knew about the toe, and was trying the heel method this time. I couldn't touch it. Gave the toe a couple of goes, in dragons, i might add, and a couple of goes later it was done. The top is a bit of a non issue i though?

Do you use the heel on the toe hold? Thats how Doyle did the first move, and to be fair it did look piss. In dragons too. I saw some frenchies using a hold for their heel slighly more in on a bit of a rubbish hold. Neither worked for me.  ::) And certainly not the jump way! A La Neil....

i spent a session once doing the toe thing, hitting the hold but a bit too fast, kinda almost holding it but not quite, losing skin left right and centre. then one go I tried the heel for some reason and could virtually static the move, could get the sloper and adjust on it and everything.

I've got up matched on the slopers several times and not been able to finish it. just seems to get into slopey grovelsville. granted that it doesn't help its neve good nick when i'm on it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 16, 2009, 12:09:22 pm
Luckily it was mint for me. Pitty the rest of the trip wasn't!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on January 16, 2009, 01:52:55 pm
Nice neil.For me the heel was bomber when it stuck. The swing however was particularly draining and the match defo the crux.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on January 16, 2009, 01:56:34 pm
Did you do it in the end Chris?

Your 'low percentage' heel was definitely a no percentage heel in my case.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on January 16, 2009, 02:40:00 pm
Nah i was too knackered at the end to get it done. My breakthrough into sloper climbing will have to wait for now. Probably never get it as mint as that ever again either.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 16, 2009, 02:46:43 pm
Nice neil.For me the heel was bomber when it stuck. The swing however was particularly draining and the match defo the crux.
exactly the same for me. i'll try neil's beta next time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on January 16, 2009, 03:08:40 pm
Can't see the vid, but i too thought the effort of getting the heel on was far greater than just pulling on and going straight up with the right for the first sloper. I trust nobody here has been using the french start 'method'...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on January 16, 2009, 03:25:08 pm
Why not? When in Rome and all that...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 16, 2009, 07:45:11 pm
I can't touch the first move on this, jump, heel,heal, toe anything. I recon when I do this move its in the bag tho
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 16, 2009, 08:55:41 pm
I can't touch the first move on this, jump, heel,heal, toe anything. I recon when I do this move its in the bag tho

you got a long way to go then jim  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 16, 2009, 08:55:59 pm
i can see it now, la jimezina

nice work neil
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 16, 2009, 10:49:28 pm
i can see it now, la jimezina

nice work neil


 ;D

cheers,

by the way chris is here waiting for you to arrive
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on January 17, 2009, 04:35:38 am
yes yes, I did one of the forests most classic lines today berizina

get in

Proper Bo.   

Or in France, Propaire Beau.






Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 19, 2009, 09:54:10 am
Is it La berezina or l'abbe Resina?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on January 19, 2009, 01:04:39 pm
As far as I'm aware, it was originally L'abbe Resina (which makes sense). I have an old(ish) guide (written by Jacky Godoffe), and it's named L'abbe Resina/La Berezina (i think... would have to check). Personally, I like to think of it as L'abbe (with an acute accent on the e) Resina.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on January 19, 2009, 01:48:27 pm
Effort Neil.... Livin in the forest is obviously doing you good ;D

See you in April.

D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 19, 2009, 01:57:27 pm
I'm with you there Joe.  In my guide (Escalade à Bleau Tome 2, COSIROC 2001) it's in as l'abbé Résina.  Makes more sense, not sure when the name morhped.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on January 20, 2009, 01:17:46 pm
Does it get called La Berezina in the real thing? There's no way I could bring myself to sit through it again to check, but somebody out there must know.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on January 20, 2009, 02:35:29 pm
Joe. Is your problem with The Real Thing that you sit there watching it thinking 'Yeah, I'm the man. Look at that jumper. Yeah! Look at me absolutely pissing Hypotheses etc etc and so on.'

And then about half an hour in, you're hit with the crushing realisation that it's not actually you. I can see why you wouldn't want to put yourself through that again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on January 20, 2009, 02:51:03 pm
He's in stone love too. I think its Cristianov they go to.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on January 20, 2009, 03:05:24 pm
there's only two people who could hang those holds.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 20, 2009, 05:35:10 pm
Effort Neil.... Livin in the forest is obviously doing you good ;D

See you in April.

D

i lad that it is, you coming at easter then?, has the wife spoke to you yet?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on January 20, 2009, 07:09:11 pm
Had my first YYFY moment today, but am embarrassed to say I didn't say it out loud at the time, so I don't know if it counts.

Did Flatworld today. Never been on it before, and got it second go! I could reach from the first foothold to the higher sidepull, so it was somewhat easier for me than John (who also got it), but I was well chuffed with myself. Ooh look at me, aren't I great  :wank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 20, 2009, 07:21:32 pm
i want my YYFY moments back.
i wonder when i'll have one again.
i'm on one of the lowest psyche moment ever.
 :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 20, 2009, 07:23:49 pm
Get your ass over here and crush.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Zods Beard on January 20, 2009, 07:51:54 pm
i want my YYFY moments back.
i wonder when i'll have one again.
i'm on one of the lowest psyche moment ever.
 :'(


Join the club!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on January 20, 2009, 08:19:28 pm
I'm wary of 'psyche'. Some people seem so 'psyched' all the time that it makes me wonder how they can possibly get much more elated or euphoric which is surely something you feel when you top out a nemesis or project. Then again, I suppose it sounds a bit 80's if you go around saying "I'm motivated".

I would argue that you are motivated Lore but not psyched. Which is fine. Come and stay.

Failing that, I have a surprise for you at easter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on January 20, 2009, 08:21:00 pm
And by posting in this thread without news, I've gone and fucking jinxed success! Bitch tits.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carnage on January 20, 2009, 09:26:17 pm
Poor Nibs.

Every trip out is a YYFY for me as it feels like I'm starting from scratch. First V5 in a long time on Sat - YYFY. Feels like I'm back now. :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on January 22, 2009, 12:36:19 pm
YYFY! I managed to complete a fairly long standing route project of mine at eatswood on Sat. Tentatively given - Lip of Fools E7 6c**. It's on the buttress right of the traverse wall. Up the crack on the right, out left along the lip on crimps, up the middle to the break and a steady finish through the bulge on the right. Quick repeat from Paul B some days later. Safe and tricky, it feels more like a crimpy 8a-ish sport route than your average hard grit route.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/3217000451_22f8559bd1.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 22, 2009, 01:14:44 pm
Congratulations!

Some interesting rope work there!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on January 22, 2009, 01:26:13 pm
so psyched he left all his worldly possesions at the crag.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 22, 2009, 01:39:36 pm
Busting out some good bee-goose colours there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 22, 2009, 11:34:08 pm
finally did underhand at the cliff today. about bloody time and all.
one of those annoying moves you can either do or can't do.
anyway , yyfy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on January 23, 2009, 12:33:02 am
YYFY! I managed to complete a fairly long standing route project of mine at eatswood on Sat.

What're the access issues at eatswood these days? BMC RAD is a bit useless
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on January 23, 2009, 08:43:59 am
YYFY! I managed to complete a fairly long standing route project of mine at eatswood on Sat.

What're the access issues at eatswood these days? BMC RAD is a bit useless

its still banned (as always) but not an "issue", if you get me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on January 23, 2009, 08:45:32 am
finally did underhand at the cliff today.

Good work - easier or harder then pebble wall?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 23, 2009, 09:04:12 am
quite clearly easier, and it's easier than flying arete too!

Good effort jim you beast. when do you return for the extension?  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on January 23, 2009, 10:29:36 am
YYFY! I managed to complete a fairly long standing route project of mine at eatswood on Sat. Tentatively given - Lip of Fools E7 6c**. It's on the buttress right of the traverse wall. Up the crack on the right, out left along the lip on crimps, up the middle to the break and a steady finish through the bulge on the right. Quick repeat from Paul B some days later. Safe and tricky, it feels more like a crimpy 8a-ish sport route than your average hard grit route.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/3217000451_22f8559bd1.jpg)

What happened to the net idea? Nice one bonjella
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on January 23, 2009, 10:51:54 am
Still keen to get the net on it some time. Maybe when there's a suitable team of lemmings on hand
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tommy on January 23, 2009, 12:26:13 pm
Flippin' hell that's a good effort. Me and a mate were trying that ground-up with a couple of pads thinking it was Monster Monster. No wonder we thought it was hard for E5! Did you test the fall? Was the tree up to the business?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 23, 2009, 02:04:57 pm
yeah absolutely fine, a little bend but all that did was make the fall/jump even more comfortable.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on January 23, 2009, 05:34:31 pm
Flippin' hell that's a good effort. Me and a mate were trying that ground-up with a couple of pads thinking it was Monster Monster. No wonder we thought it was hard for E5! Did you test the fall? Was the tree up to the business?  ;)
Wowsers! How far were you getting?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benpritch on January 25, 2009, 02:58:08 pm
YYFY.!!!! Twenty years after first trying it and concerted effort recently managed to do Trigger Cut today. Get in.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 25, 2009, 03:04:51 pm
nice one nice one mr pritch

I maanaged to do without little efforst the berezina carnage combo today and then almost did the sitter, dont know why I left this bloc for so long, after trying these problems like 6 years ago I thought they were all beyond me
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 25, 2009, 03:10:34 pm
YYFY.!!!! Twenty years after first trying it and concerted effort recently managed to do Trigger Cut today. Get in.

Should have done it a go sooner though  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 25, 2009, 03:12:51 pm
I maanaged to do without little efforst the berezina carnage combo today

Effort Neil! Got some good weather now then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 25, 2009, 03:27:38 pm
YYFY.!!!! Twenty years after first trying it and concerted effort recently managed to do Trigger Cut today. Get in.

Good show that man!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on January 25, 2009, 03:57:52 pm
Nice one Ben! You're currently ON FIRE! See you soon
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on January 25, 2009, 05:32:01 pm
YYFY.!!!! Twenty years after first trying it and concerted effort recently managed to do Trigger Cut today. Get in.

U got it done!!!! Fuckin skills pritch, i hope this doesn't mean u abondon the cave now! Now you've bagged a 7c+ i reckon the 8a's will fall  ;D ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benpritch on January 25, 2009, 06:00:43 pm
hopefully back next weekend - or friday? see you there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benpritch on January 25, 2009, 06:51:39 pm
ps - thanks pete r for dosses and beta, doylo - beta and general hilarious ness ness at the cave, adam lincoln for making it look easy, dense for driving and general encouragement (taking the piss out of me for shaking myself off on a previous attempt), ray w for doss. see you soon x
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CJ Whitaker on January 25, 2009, 07:59:10 pm
awsome good climbing :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 26, 2009, 12:58:52 pm
hey what about the thanks for brew and choclates on the way home...  haha

nice one ben
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benpritch on January 26, 2009, 02:00:32 pm
Oops, they were nice chocolates too, cheers Jim x
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on January 26, 2009, 02:02:58 pm
Effort Neil.... Livin in the forest is obviously doing you good ;D

See you in April.

D

i lad that it is, you coming at easter then?, has the wife spoke to you yet?

Yes mate, yours spoke to mine and we're in... Awesome!

Effort on the Carnage BZ link too.... You're a ticking machine;-)

D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on January 26, 2009, 02:09:47 pm
Effort Neil.... Livin in the forest is obviously doing you good ;D

See you in April.

D

i lad that it is, you coming at easter then?, has the wife spoke to you yet?

Yes mate, yours spoke to mine and we're in... Awesome!

Effort on the Carnage BZ link too.... You're a ticking machine;-)

D


 :)

i wasnt yesturday, see you at easter
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on January 26, 2009, 11:33:03 pm
I did Breadline for the first time on Saturday, which I was quietly quite pleased with considering how little climbing I'm doing recently.  :thumbsup: Maybe more of a YYFY than a YYFY! but hey.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nic mullin on January 28, 2009, 07:48:31 pm
To bring this back full circle, I finally got blind fig locked down this afternoon, despite distinctly sub-optimal conditions.

Cans.

 :alky:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 28, 2009, 07:57:50 pm
effort, it was minging at bbg north, we left to go to the works about half 2 ish
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J L on January 30, 2009, 08:45:10 pm
YES,YES, FUCKING YES!!! Bagged Western Eyes this afternoon...one of the finest prows I've ever climbed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 30, 2009, 08:48:50 pm
Effort! You should be prowd of yourself...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 30, 2009, 11:49:31 pm
Good line.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on January 31, 2009, 08:35:19 pm
YES,YES, FUCKING YES!!! Bagged Western Eyes this afternoon...one of the finest prows I've ever climbed
:thumbsup: Nice one les grand doigts!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 31, 2009, 08:46:18 pm
its all fitting into place now.
Good effort my large fingered friend
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2009, 10:01:34 pm
About time too, I suppose you 'needed some parts' did you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 31, 2009, 11:14:00 pm
Did Fight on Black today, about 6 years after I first tried it.  Got the psych back for it this year and it went 2nd go today. 
Sorry about the top out skills, it was very scrittly after the break.  Honest.

http://www.vimeo.com/3031443 (http://www.vimeo.com/3031443)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 31, 2009, 11:53:51 pm
Good work Gareth! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on February 01, 2009, 03:33:42 am

Sorry about the top out skills, it was very scrittly after the break.

The topout looked fine to me, well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: n_man on February 02, 2009, 05:31:44 am
Nice work.

I love the fact a 2(?) year old is cleaning up the right arete :bow: .
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 02, 2009, 09:55:38 am
21 months.
He ticked the big slab that day, then got cold cried and demanded to go home (which is the only reason I didn't do Fight on Black honest guv...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on February 03, 2009, 03:58:57 pm
Bérézina-Carnage combinaison assis

get in, so chuffed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 03, 2009, 04:25:58 pm
Nice one Neil.  ;D

Which one of these (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2877.msg174726.html#msg174726) is that? I'm still confused!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 03, 2009, 04:29:26 pm
huit-a? nice. i envy your lifestyle so much

neil's lifestyle >>>> my lifestyle
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Strife on February 03, 2009, 04:41:20 pm
yyfy - first ever 7a+ today.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 03, 2009, 05:01:55 pm
nice, which one?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 03, 2009, 05:05:53 pm
yyfy - first ever 7a+ today.  :)

Finding somewhere dry strikes me as being a bigger achievement than the climbing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 03, 2009, 06:02:33 pm
Nice one Neil.  ;D

Which one of these (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2877.msg174726.html#msg174726) is that? I'm still confused!

The last one surely? Effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on February 03, 2009, 06:38:36 pm
Nice one Neil.  ;D

Which one of these (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2877.msg174726.html#msg174726) is that? I'm still confused!

this one

carnage-berezina-carnage linkup 8a? as above but finish as berezina-carnage (this is what jerry does on The Real Thing
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Strife on February 03, 2009, 08:10:51 pm
nice, which one?
Nothing special or well known, just the sit-start of the problem 'knuckleduster' on some local esoterica.

Finding somewhere dry strikes me as being a bigger achievement than the climbing!
Not only was it dry rock, it was dry sandstone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on February 06, 2009, 05:16:30 pm
Did Cascade on Craig y Rhaeadr this morning - absolutely amazing, so psyched! Waited a long time for that.   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 06, 2009, 05:20:07 pm
Nice. Different phlavas...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on February 06, 2009, 05:34:42 pm
Did Cascade on Craig y Rhaeadr this morning - absolutely amazing, so psyched! Waited a long time for that.   ;D

Too ill to train but well enough to go ice climbing!!  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 06, 2009, 07:35:24 pm
a very big YYFY for me today as well:
the girls i taught italian to in the last course of the school, today waited for me during the break and gave me a bottle of wine and a letter to thank me for the teaching etc.
i almost cried.
YYFY!!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Teaboy on February 07, 2009, 07:51:41 am
Did Cascade on Craig y Rhaeadr this morning - absolutely amazing, so psyched! Waited a long time for that.   ;D

Was the much coveted enchainement of Cascade and Right Wall feasible?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on February 07, 2009, 08:14:45 am
a very big YYFY for me today as well:
the girls i taught italian to in the last course of the school, today waited for me during the break and gave me a bottle of wine and a letter to thank me for the teaching etc.
i almost cried.
YYFY!!!!!

and you say i have a good life  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 07, 2009, 09:17:09 pm
Been wanting to share some love on this thread for a while, and now is the time.

After reading the gospel according to Moffatt, I learned some important lessons about professionalism, and so last night when you were in the pub quaffing ale, I was narrowly avoiding getting my car stuck in the snow in order to get to the plantation armed with a yard brush and arriving just after 10pm. I risked life and limb and didnt really make any physical difference (but it was pretty), but physical difference wasn't what I needed, it was mental edge. And mental edge I had. Today at 1130, I am delighted to report I repeated Jerry Moffatt's futuristic test piece - The Joker.

Before you ask, there were actually three people there with video cameras - Marcos, dimitrios and Hans. I brushed a spotter on the backswing on the time I actually did it, but I had unlocked the secret and knew I could do it again. So I did, and the second time was the primo go. No dabs, nice and controlled - I was all over it! I think i could do it again actually (but perhaps not now). Anyway, I am very pleased with myself, but unfortunately I owe 75% of this ascent to Jamie cos it was him the night before who cleared the top holds, and 25% to Polish Dave, without whom I would still have been trying the campus way.

Actually, there is a thing. I didnt top out, as its covered in snow. But I dont think this matters. Wait for the video and see what you think. That said, I'm pretty sure I could do it again, and perhaps I will - plus a few moves! eh? !
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on February 07, 2009, 09:38:59 pm
Actually, there is a thing. I didnt top out, as its covered in snow. But I dont think this matters.

Unlucky..... Next time, eh?!?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richdraws on February 07, 2009, 09:56:17 pm
Nice work, you must be psyched to finish it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 07, 2009, 10:41:41 pm
I will certainly go back and do it again when the snow is cleared, for sure - after all, I think I will be back with Dave trying the Ace - and for completeness, but I'm happy to take the tick today. I got to the jug in control.

After all, its all about the move, and that is the move - the bit above is a formality. If I'd been out of control I wouldnt take it, but there's a jug six inches back. I pulled up, touched where it would have been and hung out for a minute. Bouldering is all about pushing yourself, doing the hardest moves - I did the hardest moves, and I had beans to spare. I will be back to do the mantel as well, because in the back of my mind I want to for completeness, but in my heart I know I've done the problem.

Its like Brad pit, if you got to the jug and did a chin on it, I would give you the tick. The mantle is about 5a.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richdraws on February 07, 2009, 11:18:52 pm
I hope you enjoyed the bait.
Anyway, I would leave to see footage of you on this, I have only ever seen total beasts like Ty or Moffatt on it totally crushing it. I would like to see someone raising their game and doing it. It is something I aspire to. Well done again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on February 07, 2009, 11:36:19 pm
I was puntering about about at the Plantation this morning and saw someone destroy the Joker. Twice.

Given that there was hardly anyone on the crag this must have been Dobbin, so bon effort - and independently verified.   :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on February 08, 2009, 07:19:59 am
I hope you enjoyed the bait.

Who said I was joking? No top out, no tick in my book (my book is very old and dog-eared, mind)

Jerry used his broom to clear the snow from the top of the boulders in The Real Thing, so he could top out.

The only time I ever did Brad Pitt I fell off the top out due to snow and ice covering the top of the boulder, and is it ticked in my book - is it fuckaslike.

At least you've got it dialled so you can do it properly when the snows gone, Dobbin. Then you can give it a proper tick in you're book and not feel bad about it. And at least you owned up to not topping out in public (and you've got your videos and independant witnesses).

Modern bouldering sucks ;)

Long live the old school.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J.P on February 08, 2009, 07:59:41 am
Actually, he didn´t. He brushed the top jug of Biceps Mou, but didn´t top it out ;)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on February 08, 2009, 08:34:22 am
True, but he'd done Biceps Mou before.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 08, 2009, 10:48:07 am
grande dob!
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2009, 12:19:17 pm
Good work!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 08, 2009, 12:48:20 pm
 :great: waddage!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on February 08, 2009, 12:56:27 pm
Thing is Percy, nobody's doing anything that actually matters. We're not trying to prove anything to anybody. It's not a 1st ascent. If Ben feels he has done the climbing, that's good enough. What is a tick anyway? He's been honest, and is more than happy with what he's done. I didn't top out western eyes, due to ice, and will probably go back and do it one day. But I'm not beating myself up aout it.

Nice work Dobs, you did what you set out to do.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JohnH on February 08, 2009, 01:14:23 pm
:great: EFFORT, well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 08, 2009, 01:46:37 pm
Thing is Percy, nobody's doing anything that actually matters. We're not trying to prove anything to anybody. It's not a 1st ascent. If Ben feels he has done the climbing, that's good enough. What is a tick anyway? He's been honest, and is more than happy with what he's done. I didn't top out western eyes, due to ice, and will probably go back and do it one day. But I'm not beating myself up aout it.

Nice work Dobs, you did what you set out to do.

Wise words as ever from the Sausage!

Effort Dob! I think you are owed the tick for being arsed to go out the night before broom in hand.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 08, 2009, 01:48:59 pm
The only time I ever did Brad Pitt I fell off the top out due to snow and ice covering the top of the boulder, and is it ticked in my book - is it fuckaslike.

If you could spell it correctly I'd probably have given you the tick.

I remember once doing a problem but on the drive home i stalled the engine at a junction, so I didn't take the tick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 08, 2009, 01:54:01 pm
I would have hoped you'd cancelled the ticks for the whole week.  You clearly don't take your bouldering seriously.

Well done Dobster.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on February 08, 2009, 01:59:48 pm
It's all meant in good humour - Dobbin knows I'm only joshing. Bouldering is something we do for fun - as long as you're happy with your ascent then its all good.

It doesn't stop me taking the piss though if you don't top out. Its simply a reaction to the increasing number of boulderers who have been to the ' Mini-Pic School of Topping Out' ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 08, 2009, 04:05:41 pm
I marched up to Percy in Sainsburys this afternoon, and stole with his new baby to teach him a bloody lesson, thing is he made no effort to stop me and now the baby's crying. I might put her on the Brad Pit jug...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 08, 2009, 04:21:22 pm
 :thumbsup: Congrats Dob
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on February 08, 2009, 07:03:17 pm
Effort ben, if you ever do the Ace though you'd better top that fucker out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: n_man on February 09, 2009, 05:40:17 am
I was really pleased when the top of West Side Story had mega icicles dangling down it. Forced to traverse off at the break   :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J L on February 09, 2009, 10:24:36 pm
Vid of dobbin on the joker - http://www.vimeo.com/3148944 (http://www.vimeo.com/3148944)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richdraws on February 09, 2009, 10:36:15 pm
It was worth the (admittedly short) wait, nice fucking work Dobbin. You made it look like you do it every time you go to the plantation.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on February 09, 2009, 11:07:41 pm
nice work :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: stom on February 10, 2009, 10:17:42 am
And from the other camera Dobbin doing his finest Muhammad Ali impression - thanks to Hairich for the footage

http://www.vimeo.com/3150032 (http://www.vimeo.com/3150032)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 10, 2009, 10:23:03 am
waddage
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 10, 2009, 10:47:17 am
Only two angles from two separate sources?! I'm not convinced.

Very nicely done Dob.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 10, 2009, 10:51:07 am
Am i missing something here, though it is not my intension to take anything away from anybody, a tick for me is standing on the top having done all the moves. Is the modern ethos of bouldering just about the move and nothing more?. Last summer down here on the SS, i observed this guy top roping "Wailing wall" a 5c trade route, he dogged it, but when he eventually topped out he turned to his belayer and said "thats a tick", sticking my nose in, i said, "thats not a tick mate, you were hanging on the rope for half of it", his reply was that i had the wrong idea about climbing. So by the modern standard and way of thinking, can i not just walk up to my chosen project and do the crux move, and then claim i have, or can do the problem.
Dobbin please understand i am not saying you don't deserve your, YYFY moment, just curious about what other people think constitutes a tick. Maybe there has been a thread on this subject.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: stom on February 10, 2009, 10:56:04 am
It would probably be worth reading Dobbins first post regarding this and all other subsequent postings!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on February 10, 2009, 10:57:33 am
Yes, read back through the previous page of this thread...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 10, 2009, 11:00:02 am
a tick for me is standing on the top having done all the moves.

you'd hate the Tor then.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 10, 2009, 11:05:00 am
I will certainly go back and do it again when the snow is cleared, for sure - after all, I think I will be back with Dave trying the Ace - and for completeness, but I'm happy to take the tick today. I got to the jug in control.

After all, its all about the move, and that is the move - the bit above is a formality. If I'd been out of control I wouldnt take it, but there's a jug six inches back. I pulled up, touched where it would have been and hung out for a minute. Bouldering is all about pushing yourself, doing the hardest moves - I did the hardest moves, and I had beans to spare. I will be back to do the mantel as well, because in the back of my mind I want to for completeness, but in my heart I know I've done the problem.

Its like Brad pit, if you got to the jug and did a chin on it, I would give you the tick. The mantle is about 5a.
Its all about the move is the point i am picking up on, he looks strong and i have no doubt he can do it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 10, 2009, 11:13:43 am
Last summer down here on the SS, i observed this guy top roping "Wailing wall" a 5c trade route, he dogged it, but when he eventually topped out he turned to his belayer and said "thats a tick", sticking my nose in, i said, "thats not a tick mate, you were hanging on the rope for half of it", his reply was that i had the wrong idea about climbing. So by the modern standard and way of thinking, can i not just walk up to my chosen project and do the crux move, and then claim i have, or can do the problem.

You should read about some of Jerry's early "ascents", I think he's written a book recently  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 10, 2009, 11:14:33 am
i think the key here is he didn't just get to the lip holds and decided he couldn't be arsed topping out, he didn't top out because of the 3" of snow. I say this is fair enough. In my mind having several inches of snow on the top temporarily turns the problem into no-topout problem, as if it was crag-based (would it be any less of a problem if it was crag based? no). lets excersise some common sense for christ's sake.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 10, 2009, 11:18:00 am
Not wanting to put words in his mouth but Dob is saying that it's all about the move on this problem, not in general. The Joker is universally known as a "one move" problem. There's no comparison between someone dogging their way up a route and taking the tick and not being able to do a 4A top out due to it being covered in snow.

By the way, those kind of tactics and claiming of routes are certainly not "the modern standard" (as slackers has pointed out) and I saw similar on SS on numerous occasions 20 years ago.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 10, 2009, 11:36:48 am
Not wanting to put words in his mouth but Dob is saying that it's all about the move on this problem, not in general. The Joker is universally known as a "one move" problem. There's no comparison between someone dogging their way up a route and taking the tick and not being able to do a 4A top out due to it being covered in snow.

By the way, those kind of tactics and claiming of routes are certainly not "the modern standard" (as slackers has pointed out) and I saw similar on SS on numerous occasions 20 years ago.
I do understand what your saying, i am just attempting to clarify in my own mind the thoughts of others, sadly yes SS can leave a man feeling jaded.
Oh and Dave i did take the snow into consideration, and i accept your point about crag based problems.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 10, 2009, 11:37:00 am
I'm firmly of the 'no top, no tick' school; however. let's be clear he did hit the top, he held the top, he went to stand up on the top.  To my mind the problem is well and truly ticked.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: soapy on February 10, 2009, 11:56:54 am
in that case i got the tick on everest several years ago, not topping out due to a smattering of snow on top






















..about 15,000 foots worth of smattering













Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 10, 2009, 12:10:07 pm
Not wanting to put words in his mouth

Thats not like you. Usually you are only too keen to put things in my mouth...

Anyway, I wholeheartedly agree with Jasper and dave - with specific reference to the Joker its all about getting to the lip. As long as you arrive at the lip and can be shown to be in control, and as you can see, i do stick my head over to confirm no snow mice have carved a handy ice runnel (they hadnt), so its not as if I lucked out, hit the top and fell off.

Ultimately, as Percy has alluded to above, its up to my moral compass whether I'm happy with what I did, and I am. I know I did it, and I'm happy. I think its important to be honest though, and this has been an interesting debate. Finally, I'm hoping to have another look at it tomorrow, so who knows - I may get to do the all important 5b mantle then!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on February 10, 2009, 12:13:42 pm
and this has been an interesting debate.

Hmm, not sure about that!!! In the case of the joker i think anyone who says you haven't done the problem is either a) a mountaineer or b) taking the p*ss.

As for west side story or other such blocs where people traverse off and claim the tick.... i don't know how they can sleep at night  ;)

Well done BTW - looks like a sweet move.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hairich on February 10, 2009, 12:35:38 pm
i cant believe this is even being discussed. i was there doing the filming. dobbin did it easy first time and totally static second time. what is the point of trying to swim up a slab covered in 6 inches of snow only to fall off break an ankle and have 3 months off. get a grip he pissed it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 10, 2009, 01:09:07 pm
i cant believe this is even being discussed. i was there doing the filming. dobbin did it easy first time and totally static second time. what is the point of trying to swim up a slab covered in 6 inches of snow only to fall off break an ankle and have 3 months off. get a grip he pissed it.
Jeeeeses, what! you get a grip, i can see he pissed it, and i take my hat of to you Dobbin, its more than i can do at the moment, GOOD EFFORT.  :great:
I was merely asking the question of what is more important, the move or the problem complete.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 10, 2009, 01:35:46 pm
To be fair, a mountaineer would have given topping out a proper go. I'd have like to have seen dob do that, would have made an ace video  :thumbsup:

However, I'm definitely liking the way you catch that hold dob, very controlled. Next time do a one armer on it before matching??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on February 10, 2009, 01:37:24 pm
I think the more important question here is a consensus grade for the topout! We've had everything from 4a to 5b. Its a travesty that such an important piece of climbing history remains ungraded.... ;)

p.s. effort Dobbin, you made it look like piss! :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 10, 2009, 01:47:54 pm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF3mAHwfOZI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF3mAHwfOZI)
Snow, no problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 10, 2009, 01:54:21 pm
I'd have like to have seen dob do that, would have made an ace video  :thumbsup:


The Ace video is expected in a couple of months  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hairich on February 10, 2009, 02:57:48 pm
whoa there averageman.you seem to think my comment was aimed at you.it was in general to anyone who didnt think ben had done the joker.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 10, 2009, 03:11:06 pm
whoa there averageman.you seem to think my comment was aimed at you.it was in general to anyone who didnt think ben had done the joker.


Ok fair do's, but i was the only only one who asked the question, does that constitute a send.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 10, 2009, 03:12:51 pm
a tick for me is standing on the top having done all the moves.

you'd hate the Tor then.
with good reason
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 10, 2009, 03:20:12 pm
I'd have like to have seen dob do that, would have made an ace video  :thumbsup:


The Ace video is expected in a couple of months  :P

You cock cheese slackers! I was gonna say that. Dammit.

Anyway, I'm a really nice guy and I cant believe you're all saying these awfil things. You're gonna make me hang up my boots (where is the boot rack?).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on February 10, 2009, 03:23:47 pm
(quote) Finally, I'm hoping to have another look at it tomorrow, so who knows - I may get to do the all important 5b mantle then!
[/quote]

Hopefully there will still be enough snow so you can plant a flag in the summit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 10, 2009, 03:27:18 pm
I'd have like to have seen dob do that, would have made an ace video  :thumbsup:


The Ace video is expected in a couple of months  :P

You cock cheese slackers! I was gonna say that. Dammit.

 :-*

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 10, 2009, 03:28:33 pm
I'd have like to have seen dob do that, would have made an ace video  :thumbsup:


The Ace video is expected in a couple of months  :P

You cock cheese slackers! I was gonna say that. Dammit.

Anyway, I'm a really nice guy and I cant believe you're all saying these awfil things. You're gonna make me hang up my boots (where is the boot rack?).
^^^NO don't do that, saw some of your other vids on Vimeo, your doing good lad.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 10, 2009, 03:31:47 pm
Anyway, I'm a really nice guy and I cant believe you're all saying these awfil things. You're gonna make me hang up my boots (where is the boot rack?).

This is the best thread ever. I would give you +ve karma for that but you've had more than enough for one week.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 10, 2009, 03:39:56 pm
pedofil
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 10, 2009, 04:32:01 pm
I think the more important question here is a consensus grade for the topout! We've had everything from 4a to 5b. Its a travesty that such an important piece of climbing history remains ungraded.... ;)

You could always ask Scott?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 10, 2009, 04:38:55 pm
Jas, it's often difficult to grade moves like that on the flash.  After all, a bouldering grade is for a worked (ie easiest method) ascent, so unless Scott happened upon the perfect sequence he may not be the best person to comment.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 10, 2009, 06:47:08 pm
I can remember some fat punter from Nidderdale trying to sandbag me on a V2 at Brimham, I flashed it to the ice covered top before faffing about trying to clear enough snow before giving up and dropping off.

Said fat punter tried to deny me the flash before failing to even try the first move.

He then tried to give me crap for not topping out.

I called it an 'ice flash' and the fat punter something dreadfully rude.

I think Percy, in general terms has a point.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: LucyB on February 11, 2009, 10:59:52 am
Quote from: dobbin
Anyway, I'm a really nice guy

Can we have our baby back, then? It was great to begin with, but I'm missing her now  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 11, 2009, 12:13:10 pm
If I can get her off the Beastmaker I'll pop her in this afternoon.

(I'm not that nice by the way)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on February 11, 2009, 12:30:10 pm
OH YES YOU ARE!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on February 11, 2009, 07:09:04 pm
well many moons ago on our very first trip to font, we went an had a look at megawatt, the 7c+ at isatis, remembering a picture I saw of joss on the problem, we thought it was imposable, well my friends, today i made the imposable possible with an ascent.

It was probably the most made up I have ever been on a problem, I have completed the circle on a 6 year journey, The problem has taken me several days to day over the last 4 months, you can see the footage in Februarys dose.


this is how i feel right now  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on February 11, 2009, 07:31:35 pm
Nice one Neil! I love those moments when it suddenly seems possible; when you realise that once barred gates have opened, and the meanest of holds are beckoning...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 11, 2009, 07:59:28 pm
Congrats! I never know whether to hate you or be inspired by you Neil  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on February 11, 2009, 08:02:15 pm
I never know whether to hate you or be inspired by you Neil  :P

be inspired my jedi knight
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 12, 2009, 08:40:12 am
Good effort Neil - AGAIN!

Nice pictures by Keith on Bleau.info too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 12, 2009, 08:48:28 am
Nice work Neil,  :thumbsup:
it was bound to go, you was close on it when i was with you that time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 14, 2009, 07:13:10 pm
i finally step again into here, to proudly announce that i dispatched out of service assis today, in very good conditions finally, but today i was a power monster.
i have some footage, sadly not of the send because in the cold the batteries lasted one hour.
YES YES FUCKING YES.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 14, 2009, 07:16:29 pm
Nice one Nibs. But....

Where/what/who/how is Out Of Service Assis?
Details man, we thrive on details.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 14, 2009, 07:25:23 pm
Fucking effort Lore! :)

Great problem on amazing rock  :beer2:

I had a YYFY mixed with NNFN today, climbed Vitruvian man to the lip then couldn't top it out due to it being minging wet! Also dropping the top jug on Moreau's island 30 mins later  :'(

Here is a shot from 08 of the most psyched man I have ever met infront of said crushed problem  ;)

(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v252/175/63/620130064/n620130064_3241034_465.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 14, 2009, 07:26:41 pm
first thing: read my blog!!!  ;D
out of service has been one of my nemesis for a few years. it was put up around 2003 i think and the first repeat was mine last year. not happy to have fullfilled a dream, i foolishly thought that the sit start was doable. this granted me another year or suffering: the problem is in tuscany, sassofortino, and sadly sits in the depht of the wood, just under a big cliff and is constantly in the shade, so it's rarely in good conditions.
today it was, and i sent it so far away that we will have to re-draw the topo of the sector.
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 14, 2009, 07:30:09 pm
In that case have a

B E A S T

and a

W A D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 14, 2009, 07:33:12 pm
Lore, I don't think I can sleep until I come and crush Spigolo, Lourdes and OOS in a trip of destructive proportions, then to Bruno's restaurant to dine like kings  :pissed:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 14, 2009, 07:35:24 pm
Nice one Richie (Vitruvianically speaking). Get on the sitter, quality.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 14, 2009, 07:47:22 pm
Yeah it's on the cards for the next few weeks weather permitting! It was in amazing condition until we walked up to the boulder and it proceeded to lash down for 15 mins and make any topping out a no goer  :thumbsdown: I think the shelter stone is the most underrated block of rock in the UK, stunning to look at and to climb  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on February 14, 2009, 08:13:10 pm
i finally step again into here, to proudly announce that i dispatched out of service assis today, in very good conditions finally, but today i was a power monster.
i have some footage, sadly not of the send because in the cold the batteries lasted one hour.
YES YES FUCKING YES.


And you say I have it good

 :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on February 16, 2009, 08:42:30 pm
I keep having spontaneous YYFY eruptions...

On Saturday I redpointed a F7c at St Bauzille de Montmel that I've been trying on and off since 2001.

The last time I redpointed 7c before that was TWELVE YEARS AGO.

Next stop 8a!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 17, 2009, 09:55:26 am
I think the more important question here is a consensus grade for the topout! We've had everything from 4a to 5b. Its a travesty that such an important piece of climbing history remains ungraded.... ;)

Yooo hooo! Yoooo hoooo boys! I'm over here! disappointed that this thread had moved on from talking about me I went back to the plantation and did the joker again last night - INCLUDING THE 5B mantle.

Yes, thats right top out fans, I have great pleasure in confirming that the so called easy top out is indeed easy and about 5b. I did think for a few moments that it might be 5a but I think I will go for the bigger number. 5b it is. The Ace on the other hand is a bit harder than 5b and may take some time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on February 17, 2009, 10:01:52 am
An official send :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 17, 2009, 10:08:20 am
so good he climbed it thrice - do we have a new contender for the crown of plantation showpony?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 17, 2009, 10:13:26 am
Er, sorry Dob. Bit of confusion here as you mention the grade as 5B and 5b. This is obviously a really important issue so can we have total clarity and transparency please? Where's the video by the way?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 17, 2009, 10:35:45 am
so good he climbed it thrice - do we have a new contender for the crown of plantation showpony?

Good god no - I dont have hair for it for a start, and besides, you have to be able to casually saunter up hard trad climbs of which I am terrified.

Er, sorry Dob. Bit of confusion here as you mention the grade as 5B and 5b. This is obviously a really important issue so can we have total clarity and transparency please? Where's the video by the way?

You are right. The inconsistency in my reporting my ascent so expertly highlighted by such an experienced witch hunter leaves me no option but to accept the lower grade - 5b it is. You will be delighted to learn that I decided not to break with tradition and this latest ascent was filmed by a foreign chap and we shall perhaps never see the video. Because you asked of course.

But really, I think all polish dave footage goes via Rman studios at cemetry road boulder for processing, so god knows if it will see light of day. Havent we all had enough of me by now anyway?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 17, 2009, 10:43:12 am
I hope we will get to see the negative results from the doping tests and the relevant signed witness accounts before we can give any further credit  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 17, 2009, 10:43:32 am
But really, I think all polish dave footage goes via Rman studios at cemetry road boulder for processing, so god knows if it will see light of day.

Aha so it'll turn up in sepia format with a poetry reading by Brian Blessed as the soundtrack. Look forward to it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on February 17, 2009, 11:07:15 am
Quote

You will be delighted to learn that I decided not to break with tradition and this latest ascent was filmed by a foreign chap and we shall perhaps never see the video. Because you asked of course.


For the full tick I assume you opted for the human powered method of transport. Obviously. & I hope you obeyed Rule 60 of the Highway Code for the ride back Dobbin!!??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 17, 2009, 11:26:45 am
Ah good old rule 60 (http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069837), I did have front and rear lights, but fear my roll mat may have partially obscured the rear ones.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hairich on February 17, 2009, 01:50:04 pm
you legend dobbin.well done mate.wish i had been there to film again. you should have given me a bell. did you have any spanish spotters or capture it on film that has now been taken by the fbi to keep with thier copy of the true footage of the kennedy assassination.

off topic i know. does anyone know if brad pit is dry. i have had 3 sessions clearing snow off this
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 17, 2009, 02:06:47 pm
the more I think about this the more it seems it was just a cynical ploy by dobbin to harvest in the karma. get a load for doing it to the lip, then get a load more for topping it out - double your money. You're not dealing with a mug here, this boy's playing the system like a bassoon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 18, 2009, 05:57:03 pm
Fuck it, it's not climbing related but I've just signed up for what has to be one of the best apartments in Liverpool overlooking the city with views to Clwyd and the mountains beyond. Girls, it's worth coming to my bedroom for the view outwards alone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 18, 2009, 06:15:46 pm
Girls, it's worth coming to my bedroom for the view outwards alone.

'Cos there's fuck all of interest inside?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 18, 2009, 07:19:27 pm
Far from it my boy! For there is a penis of such sculptural, sublime proportions that the view is eclipsed and indeed overlooked by it's very presence.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on February 18, 2009, 09:29:13 pm
Indeed
(http://xb3.xanga.com/068c5be5c6433182882840/m140015459.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 18, 2009, 10:22:16 pm
Nah, Stallion it'd be more like:

NSFW (http://asian.ladyboybeauty.com/images/ladyboy-amy3.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 18, 2009, 10:24:53 pm
Nah, Stallion it'd be more like:

NSFW (http://asian.ladyboybeauty.com/images/ladyboy-amy3.jpg)

 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 18, 2009, 10:54:47 pm
Fuck it, it's not climbing related but I've just signed up for what has to be one of the best apartments in Liverpool overlooking the city with views to Clwyd and the mountains beyond. Girls, it's worth coming to my bedroom for the view outwards alone.

Is it as cool as John Redhead's big studio upstairs from the furniture warehouse? I can't remember much about the details, but when my mate was sub-letting from him we used to end up in there after The Academy or Le Bateau with various strange people and Mr Redhead's strange art. Arty women are so easily impressed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on February 18, 2009, 11:06:48 pm
Quote
Arty women are so easily impressed
If I unfurled a 4 inch clittercock I would expect to leave an impression on my beau, though perhaps would not expect to block out the view.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 19, 2009, 10:25:18 am
It's on Gambier Terrace. Beatles fans might know that .... ...... lived there at one time and the song ......... .... is reputedly about something which used to happen whilst he was living there. Whether it's true or not I don't know.

Check out that massive sack! Was it considered beautiful to have a tiny penis at some point in history?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 19, 2009, 10:32:16 am
I thought you were skint dawg? Putting two and two together I can only assume that you changed your mind about the affluent queen's offer!

 :o  :guilty:  :shag:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 19, 2009, 10:36:14 am
Check out that massive sack! Was it considered beautiful to have a tiny penis at some point in history?

Ever wondered what happened to the Romans  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 19, 2009, 12:53:27 pm
Hahaha, funny you mention it Jasper, I was thinking of belatedly cashing in on that yesterday. Don't know if the offer still stands mind...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 22, 2009, 08:03:35 pm
Underhand extension and patta's arete - the crushening has begun again
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 22, 2009, 08:31:58 pm
Underhand extension

First 7c?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fatboy on February 23, 2009, 11:09:21 am
Fought my way up my first 6a in Glendalough, Ireland on Saturday and very nearly got a second which is a beautiful arete I will hopefully be dispatching on my next visit!!  ;D
I know it isn't a huge grade compared to most on here but I am stoked!
Now, training tonight to keep the momentum going...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on February 23, 2009, 11:26:59 am
Fought my way up my first 6a in Glendalough, Ireland on Saturday and very nearly got a second which is a beautiful arete I will hopefully be dispatching on my next visit!!  ;D
I know it isn't a huge grade compared to most on here but I am stoked!
Now, training tonight to keep the momentum going...

A fine place to be and one that I want to get back to sometime - not going to make it to the Irish Meet this year but Sloper is in attendance again this year and has his eye on something or other. What was the 6a out of interest?

As for the grade - I still get stoked to get up a 6a as it is a rare occurence for me - just take the tick but go back and try and do the problem in better style next time.

bluebrad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 23, 2009, 11:57:46 am
It's all relative, one man's 6A is another's 8B. The achievement is the same. What makes this game so good innit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fatboy on February 23, 2009, 12:05:22 pm
Fought my way up my first 6a in Glendalough, Ireland on Saturday and very nearly got a second which is a beautiful arete I will hopefully be dispatching on my next visit!!  ;D
I know it isn't a huge grade compared to most on here but I am stoked!
Now, training tonight to keep the momentum going...

A fine place to be and one that I want to get back to sometime - not going to make it to the Irish Meet this year but Sloper is in attendance again this year and has his eye on something or other. What was the 6a out of interest?

As for the grade - I still get stoked to get up a 6a as it is a rare occurence for me - just take the tick but go back and try and do the problem in better style next time.

bluebrad

Thanks Bluebrad, and the problem was the trackside traverse, just on the path heading up to the waterfall passed the miners village - basically opposite the egg boulder.
Defo, thats my plan, to get back iron out and perfect and rough moves!

It's all relative, one man's 6A is another's 8B. The achievement is the same. What makes this game so good innit.

Absolutely, have been back climbing for about 18 months now after about 4 years of laziness so its really motivating to be ticking back up the grades, and as you quite rightly pointed out, its more of a battle within yourself and with the rock so the grade only matters to you!!

(apologies for the ramble and hope some/any of it made sense!)  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on February 23, 2009, 12:46:56 pm
Thanks Bluebrad, and the problem was the trackside traverse, just on the path heading up to the waterfall passed the miners village - basically opposite the egg boulder.
Defo, thats my plan, to get back iron out and perfect and rough moves!

If that is the problem I think it is then it's a low traverse going from left to right? A nice problem that put up a hell of a struggle, ate a lot of skin off my ankle at the last boulder meet and then sent me packing like the dog I am!  ;)

bluebrad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fatboy on February 23, 2009, 12:52:41 pm
Thanks Bluebrad, and the problem was the trackside traverse, just on the path heading up to the waterfall passed the miners village - basically opposite the egg boulder.
Defo, thats my plan, to get back iron out and perfect and rough moves!

If that is the problem I think it is then it's a low traverse going from left to right? A nice problem that put up a hell of a struggle, ate a lot of skin off my ankle at the last boulder meet and then sent me packing like the dog I am!  ;)

bluebrad

Thats the beast Bluebrad!
Yeah it does eat a lot of skin, both on fingers and ankles!!
Now to smoooooth out the moves...

The arete is the one opposite the Fin boulder if you know it??
Actually, totally wrong place for this but if anyone is making it over to the meet in March and needs a lift down there, just shout!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 23, 2009, 06:25:40 pm
Underhand extension

First 7c?

First 7b+  ;)

I've no idea how hard it is to be honest seeing as how I only climb hard at Almscliff, and I've now got Underhand wired so I really can't comment on the grade... But stoked to have done the line, beautiful moves!

Another YYFY from today: I learnt to drop in on the mini-ramp in Hyde Park skate park. Then I went to the cliff and finally re-did Sloper Patrol and then went on to do Dreamland again which is a great problem, and then made lots of progress on DWR left hand! Stoked is the word...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 23, 2009, 06:37:34 pm
Underhand extension

First 7c?
First 7b+  ;)

I think you can have 7c for that Andi. It doesn't add much mind and is probably soft, but its similar gradewise to Jess's Roof and The Keel. Underhand crux is still THE crux....
Nice one eitherway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Charles on February 23, 2009, 11:09:19 pm
YYFY!

Climbing strong at the moment. Went to Shipley Glen on Sunday and finally did Lady Penelope! There was loads of chalk on the holds so I finally knew what I was aiming for! Never 7c though, maybe just pushing into 7b+ or just hard 7b.

Also I made a breakthrough on Red Baron Roof! Managed to get my right heel onto the lip... completely static! Body tension! Waaah! Fell off on the next move like, but think it'll go next session!

Just thought I'd share. Oh and Lady Penelope is well worth doing, excellent last move!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 25, 2009, 01:45:44 pm
A slightly delayed, but most satisfying YYFY  :thumbsup:

Finally managed to hit the finishing jug on Mugsy Traverse at Dumby -  my first bona fide Font 7B.

That was a couple of weeks ago - but still buzzing!

The thing was - if felt path...why it take so long :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2009, 02:31:57 pm
why it take so long

cos you are shit ;)

Nice one Ali.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 25, 2009, 03:45:28 pm
SA Chris :wank:

Maybe see you on Sunday - weather's not looking to wonderful though!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 26, 2009, 09:24:05 am
4 sessions over 4 months, 8 hours working it out and refining the shorties' way, and then on the 3rd go of the next session...

http://www.vimeo.com/3372687 (http://www.vimeo.com/3372687)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 26, 2009, 09:29:32 am
Nice work. A HVS tick well earned.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 26, 2009, 10:49:57 am
I shall be scrawling HVS 6c *** 3m into my log book with great satisfaction  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 26, 2009, 11:35:12 am
It doesn't count unless you're topless Fiend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 26, 2009, 11:41:39 am
Nice one Fiend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 26, 2009, 11:45:21 am
Nice, somewhere else to visit this year.

Fiend, feel free to add your vids to the UKB group.  I especially liked the Mugsy failure, brought back a few memories :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on February 26, 2009, 01:43:54 pm
Just looked at the Mugsy vids. Jasper, have you been tagging Dumbarton?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 26, 2009, 02:02:28 pm
Never been, it looks shit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on February 26, 2009, 02:36:57 pm
It doesn't count unless you're topless Fiend.
Sloper and I appear to be sharing a brain today.  8)

Never been, it looks shit.
It is shit; particularly if you are weak and can't do any of the problems, like me  :boohoo:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: marty on February 26, 2009, 02:46:02 pm
It doesn't count unless you're topless Fiend.
Sloper and I appear to be sharing a brain today.  8)

Never been, it looks shit.
It is shit; particularly if you are weak and can't do any of the problems, like me  :boohoo:

Beta helps MASSIVELY at Dumby. Can make the difference between getting spanked and getting up stuff.... (IMHO)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on February 26, 2009, 02:48:52 pm
Currently, I am firmly in the spanked camp  :lol: 

You might be onto something but there's never anyone doing the same stuff as me, they're all too busy beasting up the hard problems.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2009, 02:52:50 pm
Best beta for dumby - go somewhere else :)

I think dumby is one of those places where you reap the rewards if you put the effort in, knuckle down and work hard. Something I don't think I will ever do, unless I move considerably closer, which is highly unlikely
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 26, 2009, 02:57:46 pm
That's true.
When I lived in Glasgow and went there regularly for 7 years, I got on well with the place.  When I went back recently I got a right spanking :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 26, 2009, 02:58:43 pm
Don't diss the Dumby - or I'll come down and piss on Gaskin's head!!! So there :spank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on February 26, 2009, 03:08:23 pm
I think dumby is one of those places where you reap the rewards if you put the effort in, knuckle down and work hard.
That's me screwed then.  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 26, 2009, 03:30:33 pm
Magpie, was that you that was down the other day when I exitedly came over and tried Mugsy traverse a few times?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on February 26, 2009, 03:54:57 pm
Um, possibly, yes.  The weekend before last?  If I was very short, over-excited and not actually climbing much then yes, definitely me  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 26, 2009, 04:28:52 pm
Were you there aith a bloke that was trying Mugsy?

If so, then it must've been you!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 26, 2009, 04:58:42 pm
Don't diss the Dumby - or I'll come down and piss on Gaskin's head!!! So there :spank:

HOW DARE YOU!  :spank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on February 26, 2009, 05:46:43 pm
If so, then it must've been you!
Yeah, it was me  :wave:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 26, 2009, 06:46:23 pm
Cool :wave: I'll say hi next time  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 26, 2009, 08:31:23 pm
Nice one fiend, that problem was probably my best ever flash  (halam)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 27, 2009, 12:09:59 am
Wait a minute  :-\

Magpie, was it fiend that was with you when you were down?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on February 27, 2009, 09:13:50 am
Did I look the type to be daft enough to be climbing with the likes of Fiend? :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 27, 2009, 09:32:25 am
 :-\ :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on February 27, 2009, 11:44:36 am
Don't diss the Dumby - or I'll come down and piss on Gaskin's head!!! So there :spank:

I love Dumby as much as you, but dude!, never disrespect the G  :spank:

If some people haven't got the psyche for Dumbarton (or the power) then it's there loss.
 
:)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 27, 2009, 11:57:38 am
Don't worry, I worship the G-man too.....just thought it'd be funny! :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on February 27, 2009, 01:30:36 pm

If some people haven't got the psyche for Dumbarton (or the power) then it's there loss.
 
:)



You're quite right. I cry myself to sleep at night because I'm too weak to climb at "The Black Fontainebleau"  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on February 27, 2009, 01:34:08 pm

If some people haven't got the psyche for Dumbarton (or the power) then it's there loss.
 
:)



You're quite right. I cry myself to sleep at night because I'm too weak to climb at "The Black Fontainebleau"  :whistle:


Don't cry.
 
:P

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on February 27, 2009, 01:40:33 pm

If some people haven't got the psyche for Dumbarton (or the power) then it's there loss.
 
:)



You're quite right. I cry myself to sleep at night because I'm too weak to climb at "The Black Fontainebleau"  :whistle:

Don't worry about it, just start training a little harder and putting a bit more effort in and you might be able to send some of the easier problems Dumbarton has to offer.

Don't cry.
 
:P



Nice idea, but the days of me training hard are long gone. Maybe when the Royal Mail has been privatised I can send the problems at Dumby somewhere  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on February 28, 2009, 06:50:54 pm
meggawatt footage as promised, you can see my 6 day battle in the feb dose

http://www.vimeo.com/3400762 (http://www.vimeo.com/3400762)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nicci on March 01, 2009, 10:47:37 pm
epic fail - logged in as wrong person
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 01, 2009, 10:57:45 pm
ooops. anyway, great vid neil! megawatt looks ace!

my yyfy? today i climbed somewhere that wasn't almscliff and did whalebak at simon's seat. i love that place!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oli on March 02, 2009, 12:19:23 am
ooops. anyway, great vid neil! megawatt looks ace!

my yyfy? today i climbed somewhere that wasn't almscliff and did whalebak at simon's seat. i love that place!

Did you shake your way up it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on March 02, 2009, 02:09:09 pm
Not directly climbing related, but I got accepted into a masters course in the University of Ulster today...major personal YYFY moment!  :)

The campus is practically beside Fair Head, and close to tonnes of good climbing in the Mournes and Donegal so I'm well psyched!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richdraws on March 02, 2009, 02:22:19 pm
I did a particularly large log this morning, didn't snap off half way through or nowt. Have been feeling fairly YYFY since.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 02, 2009, 02:35:51 pm
I did a particularly large log this morning, didn't snap off half way through or nowt. Have been feeling fairly YYFY since.

Nice one  :thumbsup:

As a great philosopher once said "there is no problem in life that cannot be overcome by having a really satifying shit"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on March 03, 2009, 01:23:22 pm
Finally climbed the Terrace today in less than perfect conditions. YYFY. Just before the rains hit aswell!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on March 04, 2009, 04:59:26 pm
Finally did red 20 at the works - Fucking about time too!  (:-[ Sorry but I've not been out much recently and just need some YYFY in my life)
: D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on March 04, 2009, 05:21:36 pm
good effort duncs, hope your training hard for font in a few weeks,  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on March 04, 2009, 10:21:23 pm
YYFY

Finally did my nemesis problem. Gorilla Warfare is normally just a couple of moves too long, but it would appear my previously tiny amount of power endurance has grown a little.

However does Early Doors start on the flake (i.e. sitting) like GW? Ru's description seems a little ambiguous.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 04, 2009, 11:53:33 pm
good effort.
Both problems share the same start
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on March 05, 2009, 12:08:03 am
good effort.
Both problems share the same start

Shit! Did the stand up. Means I've gotta go back again!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 05, 2009, 07:57:15 am
Well done and commiserations on having to go back to that shitty hole.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on March 05, 2009, 08:21:11 am
Well done and commiserations on having to go back to that shitty hole.

well said ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 05, 2009, 09:38:43 am
i've not seen anyone sit start these problems for at least 10 yrs, nor should they. there is a time and a place for that, and it's not here
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 08, 2009, 11:20:46 am
Well its been a long time but got back in the saddle last night...

YYFY


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 08, 2009, 12:35:06 pm
el poussah?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on March 08, 2009, 04:42:01 pm
It's been a while...  but I've lately felt the dim stirrings of a returning mojo.

Between the shitty weather, an elbow injury, and Reynauld's Syndrome I've not had a decent day on grit since autumn.  Winter has been a catalogue of misery - numb-fingered retreats from crags, tripping-over shoe-laces that my hands are too insensate to tie.  Since Christmas I'd been largely too pissed off to try anymore - prefering to stick to indoor walls in an attempt to keep maintain some strength. 

But this last few weeks things have changed - a bit of warmth and I've had a couple of lovely days out.  Trips to Caley and Brimham - resisting the tempation to start whittling away at projects and instead just having fun repeating stuff  - Angel Wall, Mr Smooth, The Horn, Flapjack Traverse, Pine Tree Arete, Creme Egg Eliminate, The Pinch, Pocket Rock, Back Stabber, Pommel, Pair in a Cubicle etc.  Just remembering why I climb - the sheer pleasure of moving well on rock, feeling the grain under my fingers.  And as a final bonus I did The Titfield Thunderbolt for the first time - it's been ages since I ticked something from my list.

That said, soon I'll be back to getting frustrated with falling off the same old projects.... but at the moment I'm in the honeymoon period of being able to feel my fingers.

The sap is rising... YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 08, 2009, 06:46:22 pm
el poussah?

El poussniff if you knows what i mean!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 08, 2009, 08:00:27 pm
Two YYFY's in two days. Finished off pit of hell in the cave yesterday then managed manchester dogs at angel bay today in 20 mins. Psyched!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 09, 2009, 10:01:02 am
Two YYFY's in two days. Finished off pit of hell in the cave yesterday then managed manchester dogs at angel bay today in 20 mins. Psyched!

It feels like a dagger in the heart to praise Lincoln but to be fair he minced the dogs, impressive shit!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 09, 2009, 11:20:05 am
adam does that mean you did dogs in 20 mins, or you did it in 20 mins the other day?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 09, 2009, 11:22:57 am
adam does that mean you did dogs in 20 mins, or you did it in 20 mins the other day?

20 mins after first laying eyes on it. (well apart from seeing it in stick it)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 09, 2009, 11:25:45 am
well, hope me god, that means i'm going to wad you
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 09, 2009, 11:27:21 am
well, hope me god, that means i'm going to wad you

My life is now complete.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 09, 2009, 11:35:56 am
you've now got an all-over tanning booth?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 09, 2009, 11:55:39 am
you've now got an all-over tanning booth?

Nah, nothing worse than burnt sac.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 09, 2009, 04:03:48 pm
i really have to share this.
saturday i felt, for one moment, like jerry.
after falling at the very last move of the roof direct (a very big YYFY moment per se) the roof went in the sun. we took a rest, and a friend showed me a new eliminate he'd previously put up. i asked the grade, he reckoned 7b/+, adding that he wanted to do it in another harder way, but couldn't.
i felt a surging ocean inside myself. i was calm and lethal at the same time like a second reef pipeline bomb before exploding on the reef.
i said "i'll give it a go" and proceeded to destroy, flash, the harder version.
i came down, i said "it's very beautiful, thanks for showing it" and quietly went away.
(seconds later i exploded in yelling and cursing hidden under a rock).

i wonder what jerry would have done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 09, 2009, 04:09:14 pm
Nice one, glad you are back with avengeance. Where you been??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 09, 2009, 04:12:58 pm
Where you been??
training on the 60° board...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 09, 2009, 04:16:00 pm
seriously, thanks chris.
i started climbing on rock a bit more, recently after the rain season, let's say at least one day out every weekend. obviously the fact that it has rained for ages before, really helped me to stay focused on my training.
this said, i still haven't done the roof direct...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 09, 2009, 07:13:06 pm
I bet the guy who showed you it was gutted!  :P  good effort all the same!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Strife on March 09, 2009, 11:05:10 pm
YYFY, I mastered the art of the one arm pull up today - not bad for someone who couldn't even do 4 normal pull ups a few months ago. ;D
I can't do 10 in a row yet like most of you forum regulars, but I'm getting there.  8)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 10, 2009, 10:16:12 pm
Had a good session in the cave by lamplight and got back to catch the end of the 4-0!  :pissed:  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 10, 2009, 10:25:39 pm
Had a good session in the cave by lamplight and got back to catch the end of the 4-0!  :pissed:  :thumbsup:

TC?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 10, 2009, 10:32:51 pm
Nah no joy on the link but made good progress on it and feel good for next session when I aint climbed 4 days on! More YYFY about the football  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 10, 2009, 11:08:12 pm
Week after next crouch! Me vs. Left Wall Traverse and you vs. TC! Then me vs. Pill Box original etc.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 11, 2009, 07:55:10 am
You will path these things but I suppose they will make a good warmup for the other things I plan to sandb... encourage you on  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on March 11, 2009, 05:00:41 pm
YYFY!  Finally, I've done Underhand at the 'cliff.  Curious children will no longer anxiously tug at their parents and ask "Mummy.. why is there a man hiding in that cave... and just why does he look so angry?"  Well, that's unless I decide to work on the extension - although without a bouncy castle that's unlikely (the landing for the final few moves is horrible... and that hold before the last pocket seems to be getting smaller).

Bloody annoying in a way though - I decided to try a slightly different way of using my left foot and bagged it three goes later (after over 2 years of falling off... that's a lot of time I'll never get back!).  Still, to make the day perfect I won some petrol money for future ticking trips with a bet on Master Minded at Cheltenham... Get in!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 11, 2009, 05:07:49 pm
That's a fucking good day!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 11, 2009, 07:21:16 pm
 :thumbsup: bon effort boy! Great problem isn't it? I'd say definitely get on the extension, it only adds a bit on and with mats and spotters it's perfectly fine!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on March 12, 2009, 06:56:44 pm
Cheers Andy.  The extension is definitely on the radar, although I'm not sure what will take longer to get: the stamina, the extra mats, or some spotters.  Anyway, back to business: another YYFY.... this is getting faintly ridiculous:

Today, still shellshocked after vanquishing Underhand, my nemesis for 2-3 years, I dragged my aching body to Caley, intending just a quick circuit.  Bewilderingly, within a couple of hours of my first attempt, I managed Two Squirrels.  I'd only gone for a quick feel - just to see whether it was a feasible summer project.  I don't know... you wait years to climb something harder than 7a+/b and then two come at once.    Anyway its a great problem: funky moves that almost give arse-dragging a good name, although my palms now need a skin graft.

Just goes to show... pretty much only climbing indoors for months and gaining a load of weight isn't necessarily a killer (at least when you're an under-weight weakling). 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 12, 2009, 07:45:43 pm
Slightly less of a YYFY than MooseMan, but I have had to tighten up my belt by another notch this week. 36" trousers are now a bit too big.

Bring on the 34 inchers!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on March 12, 2009, 11:11:20 pm
Firstly, apologies to FJ. I was fully intending on going to do ED and have a play on Hurricane with you, but I now don't need to go back to the GW bloc. I've done ED from the sitter (YYFY)! Ok so I haven't done Hurricane, but I doubt I ever will. So that's me finished with that bloc. Woohoo!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on March 12, 2009, 11:19:30 pm
36" trousers are now a bit too big.

Bring on the 34 inchers!
I'd stick with the 36'ers, Lagers. Half masts are always gonna look daft
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Wbd-uMYmb_4/RwLbj398WqI/AAAAAAAABpc/seRlQJI2oDk/s400/270K4206.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on March 12, 2009, 11:24:15 pm
Firstly, apologies to FJ. I was fully intending on going to do ED and have a play on Hurricane with you, but I now don't need to go back to the GW bloc. I've done ED from the sitter (YYFY)! Ok so I haven't done Hurricane, but I doubt I ever will. So that's me finished with that bloc. Woohoo!

Good effort! ...But have you done Jihad, and Humpin' (admittedly not great lines) and the problems on the wall opposite GW? The pit is still calling your name....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chriss on March 12, 2009, 11:41:46 pm
Not really a YYFY moment, but to DREW well done on ED, me and the lanky Sandstone fella that spotted you today also did ED & GW so thank fuck we won't have to return to that urinal again either!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on March 12, 2009, 11:58:31 pm
Not really a YYFY moment, but to DREW well done on ED, me and the lanky Sandstone fella that spotted you today also did ED & GW so thank fuck we won't have to return to that urinal again either!!

Cheers guys, and cheers for the spot. Don't think I could've done it without!

Good effort! ...But have you done Jihad, and Humpin' (admittedly not great lines) and the problems on the wall opposite GW? The pit is still calling your name....

Well the wall opposite scares the shit out of me so I aint doing anything there, and I've never heard of Jihad, or Humpin'. Where are they? Oh and I suppose I should do Extended Warfare, and maybe even Original Warfare. But I can't be arsed!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on March 13, 2009, 12:35:07 am
Sorry, ignore me - those other problems aren't all that. Bask in the glow of your success and never go there again!

But just in case you can't resist... Jihad starts up GW, then instead of traversing rightwards make a big throw for the ED sloper and finish up that - 7b/+. Humpin' climbs the right arete from sitting, without the jugs right of the arete, then finishes up GW - 7a+. On the opposite block there are some problems that stop at the ledge.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 13, 2009, 06:38:27 pm
Jihad is ok for something to do if you've done everything else.
Humping is just plain shit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on March 13, 2009, 07:56:37 pm
Jihad starts up GW, then instead of traversing rightwards make a big throw for the ED sloper and finish up that - 7b/+.

you've just described early doors there. jihad starts in the crack and traverses rightward with hands on the pinches and sloper rail (feet in the GW flake) to the hurricane sloper, then throws rightwards to the early doors finish.

There's also a good one there, start sitting on the jug rail round the rigth arete, reverse EW to the GW sloper then keep going left along the ED slopers to top out, about 7bish.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 16, 2009, 02:06:01 pm
yesterday i sent the infamous amiata roof, the direct line. twice.
where until a few hours ago there was a beautiful boulder, full of wonderful lines, now there's only wasteland. i destroyed everything.
YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 16, 2009, 02:18:28 pm
 :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on March 16, 2009, 02:27:31 pm
Jihad ...7b/+. Humpin'...7a+

I think you've got those grades the wrong way round there. Jihad is easy 7b and Humpin is a tricky 7b+ (unless one has a dubious approach to dabbing).

Jihad is ok for something to do if you've done everything else.
Humping is just plain shit

I think you've got those descriptions the wrong way round there. Jihad is a dull, set holds eliminate, whereas, although Humpin' is a 'tight line,' it is a line, and has some interesting moves.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on March 16, 2009, 02:33:31 pm
Dunno. Maybe I did Humpin' wrong? Pull on left hand pinch thing (without using elbow on the block), right hand arete, right heel round arete. Slap for small right hand edge. Hard climbing over. Left foot up, swing to good left hand holds, finish leftwards up GW. ??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on March 16, 2009, 02:44:44 pm
Good effort crushing that undercut pinch! I went left hand first to a sloper, which caused a tricky controlled swing between the boulders. I'll reserve judgement on your heel position until I see it though, as I've witnessed your dodgy logic when it comes to foot rules, on Hurry On Sundown. ;).

I was just quoting Dave and Dan's original grade really though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on March 17, 2009, 01:35:10 pm
Just had a call from James Foley (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=457) who has just done Lou Ferrino... Sure he will be along to pump his own trumpet - but well done beast!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 17, 2009, 07:20:28 pm
Can I just add that he went to the cave alone, without telling anyone and no one was there to witness it.
hmmmmmmmm
also was seen unable to do any of the moves on saturday as well
hmmmmmmmm
Hopefully he'll be doing it again tomorrow


Good effort beast, I'm well jealous
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 17, 2009, 07:23:00 pm
Can I just add that he went to the cave alone, without telling anyone and no one was there to witness it.
Good effort beast, I'm well jealous

Too be fair, Doyle probably saw it from his living room...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 17, 2009, 08:07:51 pm
I saw a man crouching in the back of the cave masturbating, yeah sounds like Foley.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: guru on March 17, 2009, 10:35:23 pm
W illoreee!!!!!!  :beer2:
..where there was a roof, now there is only a heap of rubble... happy biceps!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: (woz) on March 18, 2009, 11:26:34 am
After failing miserably on my projects all winter, feeling weak, then busting two tendons in my right hand, I finally got a YYFY moment this morning: A job lined up for after uni in Shipley. Bring on the glen. :alky:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on March 18, 2009, 12:21:55 pm
Early monday I finally managed to erase from my memory the shit sequence that I was using and do Andy's Arete at Glendalough. Not much YYFY more relief that my left hand never has to pull on that f--king crimp again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on March 18, 2009, 06:47:33 pm
Had a little bit of YYFY on Monday, got an impromptu afternoon out in the nice weather and did the first hard (for me) trad lead (Kirkus' Corner at Stanage) I've done after lots of injury / feeling crap. Bit of a surprise too - hadn't set out to do owt tricky, but just got the urge as I was walking past, so I did it.

Not a groundbreaking hardcore bit of climbing I know, but was happy to feel a touch of confidence and that my climbing ability is coming back.



 

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 18, 2009, 08:03:54 pm
968 miles driven
6 sessions
1 7c+
YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 18, 2009, 08:11:25 pm
Sorry lads just got the new Parisellas PDF and LF is in at 7c! Well it had to happen with all these foreigners coming over and ticking it.










......Only joking! Effort Lads!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 19, 2009, 08:56:52 am
Ha ha ha ha. You cunt Doylo.

Nice one Jim etc.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 19, 2009, 07:00:06 pm
After my NNFY from Tuesday i went out in better conditions this evening, and on my own. And dispatched. YYFY.
Its very satisfying going out on your own with one goal in mind and succeeding. Of course its on film, and will follow shortly...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on March 19, 2009, 08:53:57 pm
About time too, A.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 19, 2009, 09:00:44 pm
About time too, A.

Ha, well, factors out of my control. The crimp was always wet. Only actually had 3 sessions on it. And that includes today!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 19, 2009, 09:33:29 pm
Good effort Adam, jim and everyone else out there crushing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on March 20, 2009, 11:24:52 am
Adam, is there a topo about of that section of the boulder, ive an old one somewhere thats missing a lot of these probs, cheers dude paul
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on March 20, 2009, 11:46:48 am
Here is the latest topo from March 08 which has everything in apart from Ironman (listed as a sit start project to Vitruvian) and Pacman. This updates the one before which was missing a lot of stuff, which might be the one you already have.

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/f62.pdf (http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/f62.pdf)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on March 20, 2009, 01:46:55 pm
 :beer2: cheers kingy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 20, 2009, 03:12:42 pm
what is pac man? it looks like iron man only exactly the same
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on March 20, 2009, 03:16:06 pm
what is pac man? it looks like iron man only exactly the same

Its Wheelbarrow into Ironman
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 20, 2009, 04:12:50 pm
what is pac man? it looks like iron man only exactly the same

I missed a few moves off the start in the clip so it looks even less moves into Vitruvian. It is a class addition to the boulder.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on March 21, 2009, 06:58:35 pm
On a routes flava I bagged my first 8 for 2 years. Which is nice  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2009, 07:04:50 pm
good work for someone who quit climbing :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on March 21, 2009, 08:07:46 pm
Not bad at all  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on March 22, 2009, 09:00:16 pm
On a routes flava I bagged my first 8 for 2 years. Which is nice  ;D
Top One Andy!

I got in shortly after you mate and got Baboo today mate chuffed!! reckon its not soft 8a or at least if it is definately harder than two other soft 8a's i've done.  Very nearly got straightened as well. Definately harder start than baboo. Same awesome rest, not sure if it was having tried hard on baboo or just harder moves on strightened but managed to fall of just after the (baboo crux) when my fingers uncurled whilst i was trying to crush the hold. :) 

Cheers
Tim
(proper cold there today, really windy with a few sunny spells)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SteG on March 23, 2009, 09:26:00 am
nice one Tim,  :thumbsup:

on good form atm mate - let's see another YYFY next weekend ey!?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on March 23, 2009, 05:21:01 pm
nice one Tim,  :thumbsup:

on good form atm mate - let's see another YYFY next weekend ey!?

hopefully, i am being hopeful despite a poor weather forecast.

Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 23, 2009, 11:12:02 pm
If I'm allowed a little YYFY...

http://vimeo.com/3824291 (http://vimeo.com/3824291)

....in a short session, most of which was spent trying to work out the best foothold

(http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/thatdamnfoothold.jpg)

(this one - took me 4 or 5 goes after I found it)

Not bad for a fat weak injured trad punter (who was very chuffed with doing some mega-classic trad slab climbing over the weekend too).

Apologies for the fuzzy video and gaylord power screams, but not much of an apology as the latter were necessary :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on March 23, 2009, 11:26:06 pm
Found a vid of Dunney on Hitchhiker's, which was linked to this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnq8-ihnJfw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnq8-ihnJfw)


:lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 23, 2009, 11:48:27 pm
 :guilty:

I'd forgotten all about that little exercise in plagiarism and slander. I hope all those featured can see the funny side
  :-[

Why is it posted in this thread, G?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on March 23, 2009, 11:51:38 pm
Found a vid of Dunney on Hitchhiker's, which was linked to this:

Matt on Hitchhikers---->Dunney on Hitchhikers---->Dunney having the piss ripped by a nasty man.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 23, 2009, 11:55:25 pm
 :lol:
My brain must have stalled for a bit -  the Fiend vimeo vid wasn't showing up when I read the thread earlier

Nice one Fiend  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 24, 2009, 03:24:50 pm
My string of good luck continues and had another YYFY moment today. Ryan Pasquill did the first ascent of this problem called pot of gold at Longridge a few years back. Its a massive dyno. He graded it V11, but is probably harder than that via that method. This links into a really good V9 to finish. Now along comes Paul Smitton a few days back and manages to do the move without a dyno but with a finger lock. Now i had always wanted to do this problem and armed with that new sequence i went and did it this afternoon. So pleased as its on my home crag! Vid to follow shortly!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 24, 2009, 03:30:21 pm
Nice work Adam, you seem to be on a roll. Am I being thick not understanding this though? (and no I don't mean the use of the funny V thing!)


Its a massive dyno. He graded it V11, but is probably harder via the dyno.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 24, 2009, 03:32:40 pm
Nice work Adam, you seem to be on a roll. Am I being thick not understanding this though? (and no I don't mean the use of the funny V thing!)


Its a massive dyno. He graded it V11, but is probably harder via the dyno.

Changed  ;)  :oops:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 24, 2009, 07:35:13 pm
Cool. Good work fella.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 26, 2009, 12:41:44 pm
Finally did what is (I think) considered a benchmark 8a yesterday: The Joker.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on March 26, 2009, 12:44:54 pm
Good effort, especially as its not really your style I'm guessing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on March 26, 2009, 12:46:01 pm
I hope this was in trainers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on March 26, 2009, 12:54:57 pm
On a routes flava I bagged my first 8 for 2 years. Which is nice  ;D
Top One Andy!

I got in shortly after you mate and got Baboo today mate chuffed!! reckon its not soft 8a or at least if it is definately harder than two other soft 8a's i've done.  Very nearly got straightened as well. Definately harder start than baboo. Same awesome rest, not sure if it was having tried hard on baboo or just harder moves on strightened but managed to fall of just after the (baboo crux) when my fingers uncurled whilst i was trying to crush the hold. :) 

Cheers
Tim
(proper cold there today, really windy with a few sunny spells)

Tim is baboo being considered 8a now?

Nice 1 adam gd effort. had a sesh trying t do dyno end o last year, never got more than 6 inch from the hold... ridiculous.. anyhow finger lock thing sounds good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 26, 2009, 01:03:18 pm
Quote
I hope this was in trainers.

Not yet, but I did have a couple of goes and its possible.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 26, 2009, 01:04:10 pm
Nice one.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 26, 2009, 01:05:26 pm
Oh, and I'm proud to say I milked the fuck out of the swing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on March 26, 2009, 01:06:37 pm
Quote
I hope this was in trainers.

Not yet, but I did have a couple of goes and its possible.

tennies or gazelles?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on March 26, 2009, 01:19:56 pm
On a routes flava I bagged my first 8 for 2 years. Which is nice  ;D

Nice 1 adam gd effort. had a sesh trying t do dyno end o last year, never got more than 6 inch from the hold... ridiculous.. anyhow finger lock thing sounds good.

Sounds good, though painful as fook!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 26, 2009, 01:32:25 pm
Quote
tennies or gazelles?

It'll be tennies first at least, lets not run before we can walk.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on March 26, 2009, 01:43:53 pm
Good work JB - foot on jug left hand first method like Jerry?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on March 26, 2009, 01:45:18 pm
Milking the f*ck out of the swing might suggest otherwise stubbs.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 26, 2009, 01:51:41 pm
Of course foot on 'the jug', left hand first, I'm not some campus-trained idiot I need feet to get into the 8th grade.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on March 26, 2009, 02:51:27 pm
well bloody done mate. Did anyone see you?  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 26, 2009, 02:56:28 pm
Nice one JB. Good to sieze the weather window.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 26, 2009, 03:18:09 pm
excellent!!!
one day, i hope.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on March 26, 2009, 04:38:04 pm
Of course foot on 'the jug', left hand first, I'm not some campus-trained idiot I need feet to get into the 8th grade.
very nice... :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jakjak on March 27, 2009, 02:22:10 am
the wallnut, baslow 6c... i HATE anything longer than 0.5 moves and there i go sending a traverse haha  :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on March 29, 2009, 12:35:06 am
Bagged another 8a today at the cove! 'Straightened', The one that got away last weekend. :) Pleased. Need to get down to some studying for a bit now... however i'm planning for the next project....

Tim
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on March 29, 2009, 05:44:36 pm
A lovely sunny day and I'm back out to play: mustered enough will-power to get on The Grouch whilst fresh and finally got it ticked. 

Mind you, I'm possibly more chuffed that I finally found a decent sequence for the Happy Days groove.  I now just have to link it into the traverses... it never bloody ends!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on March 30, 2009, 08:54:56 am
just had a week in font and managed 7 days climbing on the trot with out causing myself to self distruct.also managed to do 10 6c+/7a problems which is about 6 months of success in a typical year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hairich on March 30, 2009, 10:22:18 am
finally did electrical storm at burbage south yesterday after years of trying it very occasionally. thanks to jamie big hands for being there with great foot beta.

one of those that felt impossible to easy with the knowledge
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on March 30, 2009, 10:37:01 am
Yes Yes Fucking Yes!!

Managed to tick the Widdop classic Fight on Black yesterday! First 7b too.... Get in!

: D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on March 30, 2009, 11:04:21 am
Let me guess you lanked it.

Fancy a skive this pm and exploration of some local esoterica?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on March 30, 2009, 11:15:10 am
Well done, Duncan. (http://www.themockturtle.com/Amock/images/smilies/xrolic.gif)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on March 30, 2009, 11:37:53 am
Cheers miss Pie... Hope your train home was uneventful and wierdo free..

Skins a bit thin today Sloppy old bean... Keen for tomorow tho... Could do with picking your brains a little too so lemme know if you've got a spare half hour this week....

And no I didn't lank it (I used the approved tall persons sequence :bounce:)

: D   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on March 30, 2009, 06:10:09 pm
Yes Yes Fucking Yes!!

Managed to tick the Widdop classic Fight on Black yesterday! First 7b too.... Get in!

: D

nice one duncs, you better have some skin left for font, dont want your tips going on the first day like every other year.




On a my YYFY moment of the day, I manages Sur-prise today, super classic font classic,  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on March 30, 2009, 09:01:40 pm
Cheers man.. Havin a full week off and bought some marigolds - skin'll be fine..

Effort on surprise...

: D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 31, 2009, 05:23:24 pm
Had a chuffing YYFY in Siurana yesterday, La Cara Que No Miente. Amazing amazing route. mega tufa followed by dyno to jug. Shikading.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on March 31, 2009, 05:26:24 pm
passed my exam! get in!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hairich on March 31, 2009, 05:35:28 pm
fucking get in
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on March 31, 2009, 08:04:40 pm
MRCP?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on March 31, 2009, 08:20:12 pm
i am indeed a member!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on March 31, 2009, 08:40:30 pm
Nice one, member of the "other college"  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 31, 2009, 11:43:50 pm
no, saltbeef is a member (ie cock)  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 01, 2009, 10:00:36 pm
My first YYFY! of the year.. Dreamland @ Almscliff... first F7a+  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 01, 2009, 11:12:29 pm
Good effort! A very good 7a+ it is too!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ajh on April 01, 2009, 11:37:32 pm
More YYFY from Almscliff tonight, finally hauled my arse up Pebble Wall - been trying it on and off since about this time last year, never wanted to use the heel/toe thing as the prospect of tipping off backwards and landing with it still in place put me off but tonight with a couple of burly spotters (to hold my bulky arse in the air while I got it out in the event of failure), I gave it a go....got it first time, and what a brilliant problem it is!  ;D

In case he doesn't get on here but waddage to Rabies as well - he got Patta's, Steve's Wall, DWR, the 7a traverse into and up Morrell's Wall and Dolphin Belly Slap tonight...quite an evening!  :bounce:

Effort on Dreamland, Tomtom. Think I saw some people over by the wall trying it but they'd gone by the time I got there, guess you were with them? Out of interest, most of them seemed to be using a second sloper at the same height as the main one but in the break out L., did you use that and how do you think that affected the difficulty if so? I always assumed it was out but I don't want to be making life overly hard for myself...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 02, 2009, 07:59:44 am
More YYFY from Almscliff tonight, finally hauled my arse up Pebble Wall - been trying it on and off since about this time last year, never wanted to use the heel/toe thing as the prospect of tipping off backwards and landing with it still in place put me off but tonight with a couple of burly spotters (to hold my bulky arse in the air while I got it out in the event of failure), I gave it a go....got it first time, and what a brilliant problem it is!  ;D

Good effort - yes it was us just leaving as you guys turned up... glad you got it ticked - its still evading me, but I worked a new sequence to get my feet in the right place at the start - so time to start on the upper part afresh!

Effort on Dreamland, Tomtom. Think I saw some people over by the wall trying it but they'd gone by the time I got there, guess you were with them? Out of interest, most of them seemed to be using a second sloper at the same height as the main one but in the break out L., did you use that and how do you think that affected the difficulty if so? I always assumed it was out but I don't want to be making life overly hard for myself...

Yes again - that was us. Now, that hold on the left... I wasn't sure it was in, but a couple of the people we were there with were sure it was in... I used it, and having posted the above have checked on YG.com and the vids there show no-one using it..  :( First couple of tries I had I used just the single sloper and scrabbled my feet up - then used single sloper, scrabbled feet up, spanned across to the hold on the left, then popped a foot out left and reached up with my right... Is that harder or easier? I dont know. With retrospect before I can really claim the tick I need to go and do it the one hold way. Frustrating the whats in whats not in rules.. that hold on left didnt seem to be on an obvious line aside from dreamland..
 
For me, the first move - getting the sloper (much better on the RH side btw) is very morphodependant.. I'm tall and bobbed for it straight away but others really struggled. The gentle reach up on smears for the 2nd to last large hold/break was a real nice move - and that was quite tricky.
I suspect I didnt do it completely the right way, as hardest I've done to date is 7a - and this didnt feel any harder - prob felt about 6b/6b+ but I am tall...

 :shrug: given the above I suspect I used an illegal hold and need to go back to it and try the other way
 - so guess I may have to retract my YYFY... ANYWAY - which ever way I did it, it still felt great and I finally got up something! Deliverance on friday if the weather holds  ;)

If anyone can confirm/deny whether that hold is in or not please let me know... T
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 02, 2009, 12:50:21 pm
have checked on YG.com and the vids there show no-one using it

I wouldn't take too much notice of videos of one fat lad (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__dreamland#video;n=0) and one lanky twat (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__dreamland#video;n=1)  :whistle:

Having said that, I personally think Dreamland is no give away at 7a+, it's certainly not 7a.

If you're talking about the hold left of Sloper's belly, my understanding is that it's out of bounds:

(http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/almscliff__dreamland.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 02, 2009, 01:12:49 pm
Bear in mind that is a quite significant belly too...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 02, 2009, 01:31:19 pm
have checked on YG.com and the vids there show no-one using it

Having said that, I personally think Dreamland is no give away at 7a+, it's certainly not 7a.

If you're talking about the hold left of Sloper's belly, my understanding is that it's out of bounds:


Darn, I suspected as much... looks like I'll have to go back and do it properly...  :spank:
Thanks, T
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 02, 2009, 01:58:37 pm
Good effort Hobson's Choice and Rabies - sounsd like everyone's crushing up there at the moment!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 02, 2009, 02:57:42 pm
Good effort Hobson's Choice and Rabies - sounsd like everyone's crushing up there at the moment!
Conditions were superb yesterday eve, esp as the sun dropped. Not too cold, great friction happy days :)
Get yourself there!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oli on April 02, 2009, 05:51:29 pm
Just got back from my first trip do font and it was fucking awesome.
Did some classic 7's, the odd circuit and managed to avoid getting completely shutdown by a 4+.
And I managed to do Carnage, a first 7B+...  ;D

However, also some NNFN, but that's for another thread.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 02, 2009, 10:12:42 pm
Good effort grump!

I did two nemeses today, Angel Deelite and Crucifix Kiss. Also got close to Beauty of Being Numb, but it hurt my heel too much after a while. :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 03, 2009, 03:29:03 pm
bloody hell andy, perhaps the gaston on new jerusalem hasn't got bigger after all
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: old cheese on April 06, 2009, 06:54:07 pm
Get in!

 :great: did Blind Fig today for the first time ever, only been trying it for the last 19 years! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 06, 2009, 07:07:48 pm
Nice one Neil.  How's the little one?.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on April 06, 2009, 08:12:35 pm
Know this ain't a bouldering achievement but I finally did The File today - I can finally claim to be OK at jamming, though my hands probably tell a different story!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carnage on April 07, 2009, 03:55:17 am
Just got back from a week in the Gramps and finally felt like I was climbing properly after such a long time. No huge ticks, just a couple of V6's and a few 5's along with lots of fun times on easier stuff.

I even managed to drag my arse up something in HMC - YYFY,  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 07, 2009, 09:25:19 am
Quote
Know this ain't a bouldering achievement but I finally did The File today

Fine effort. When I was at uni I had a friend on the british lead comp team who failed on that. How we laughed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on April 07, 2009, 09:33:13 am
the file is pretty handsize dependant, mine were borderline and i didn't find it easy. the guy seconding me had even thinner hands and could hardly move on it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 07, 2009, 10:01:14 am
Thats the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard, you're saying your hands were too thin? You guys need to learn to fucking jam.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on April 07, 2009, 10:10:45 am
next time you can't reach the same holds that I can i'll say "you guys need to learn to fucking be 6'1". its called morphology, some jam sizes are easier/better/comfier for certain hand sizes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 07, 2009, 11:01:49 am
So you're 6'1" but with tiny hands? Or are they just thin? I thought you made that Mamiya look big.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on April 07, 2009, 11:17:01 am
my hands are fairly big the flat axis, but thin front-to-back. pretty aerodynamic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on April 07, 2009, 11:40:59 am
This guy would be shit out of luck on The File...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQyxGTjZi2I&feature=PlayList&p=65019DD99507EA7B&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQyxGTjZi2I&feature=PlayList&p=65019DD99507EA7B&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=8)

I did try the 'my hands are too small' argument as my excuse for not being able to to The File in the past, and while I'd love to be able to say it was true I think it was just that I was bobbins at jamming. Now I can does that make me an offical northerner or something? Do I get the keys to Sheffield?



Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 07, 2009, 11:43:11 am
I agree with dave. I was always rubbish at jamming cracks which were perfect for most folk due to not having big enough hands. It's a small price to pay mind when "two finger pockets" for the sausage fingered are three finger jugs for me so I'm not complaining. Well done anyway TTT.

Now I can does that make me an offical northerner or something? Do I get the keys to Sheffield?

No it just means you don't have to do it again.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oli on April 07, 2009, 11:57:39 am
It's a small price to pay mind when "two finger pockets" for the sausage fingered are three finger jugs for me so I'm not complaining.

Git. I hate it when that happens... :thumbsdown:

(Can you guess where on the sausage spectrum my fingers lie?!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on April 07, 2009, 05:21:14 pm
I even managed to drag my arse up something in HMC - YYFY,  :great:

Good shit - Wheel of Life next  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on April 07, 2009, 06:29:23 pm
Quote
Know this ain't a bouldering achievement but I finally did The File today

Good work Mr Twotone: YYFY Old Skool stylee!  I've a similar story, my first trad weekend since last autumn saw me finally muster the gumption to do Goliath's Groove... I've been a long time avoiding that one! 

Fine effort. When I was at uni I had a friend on the british lead comp team who failed on that. How we laughed.

I once saw a lass who claimed to climb at leat F7c repeatedly fail to start Pot Hole Direct at Almscliff (UK 5a), she eventually gave up because she couldn't take the pain!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on April 07, 2009, 07:38:15 pm
Conehead is crushed YYFY  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 07, 2009, 07:40:29 pm
Awesome Andy. Nice to see you getting hard stuff done regularly at last! I'll maybe come along with you someday when I get strong enough  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 07, 2009, 08:13:18 pm
the file is pretty handsize dependant, mine were borderline and i didn't find it easy. the guy seconding me had even thinner hands and could hardly move on it.

i agree I had to layback that fucker, and crimp on the wall, I couldnt get a single jam in
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on April 07, 2009, 08:34:55 pm
Blimey - are your hands that small - aren't you like 6 foot plus Neil?

I'm a right shortarse and I jammed it all the way...I must have massive hands for my height... :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 07, 2009, 10:12:35 pm
This is a VS you fucking Punters...   :lol: Thin hands??? Jesus H Christ
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 07, 2009, 10:15:55 pm
That directed at our 7c climbing thin hand gang not you TTT - good effort to you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: underground on April 08, 2009, 12:02:56 am
Hello everyone, thought I'd make a little appearance. I thought The File was piss, sweet hand jams with brilliant footholds, on the inside and outside of the crack. No excuse, you just gots to jam, right.... by bending dem fingers, or not.



Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 08, 2009, 12:17:44 am
I still don't get this Pebble Wall issue. If you can do DWR but not PW you are simply a technical punter. End of the matter  :P

I don't even use the heel - toe lock. I must've done it 10 times and haven't fallen off it since I first got it.

Psst. If you're still struggling then think undercut.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carnage on April 08, 2009, 04:43:46 am
Good shit - Wheel of Life next  ;D

Haha! I wish. After seeing it in the 'flesh' I can say it is an unbelievably impressive bit of climbing even if it is butt-dragging in a few places. The v11/12 gaston of Dead Can't Dance after 50 odd moves looks like a heart-breaker.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 08, 2009, 04:56:41 am
the file is pretty handsize dependant, mine were borderline and i didn't find it easy. the guy seconding me had even thinner hands and could hardly move on it.

i agree I had to layback that fucker, and crimp on the wall, I couldnt get a single jam in

probably because your meathooks are the size of my feet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on April 08, 2009, 04:56:02 pm
Awesome Andy. Nice to see you getting hard stuff done regularly at last! I'll maybe come along with you someday when I get strong enough  ;)

I'd say you were more than strong enough, just get some routes mileage in and you'll soon be pulling the crag down.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ajh on April 08, 2009, 06:55:54 pm
I still don't get this Pebble Wall issue. If you can do DWR but not PW you are simply a technical punter. End of the matter  :P


I think you'd find yourself a technical punter too if you didn't just lank it! FWIW I tried it your way (just stand up and grab the jug - HAH!!) and I was still a crucial inch away from the finishing jug.

The undercut is the most obvious hold going - that isn't the knack people refer to on this problem. The bit people struggle with is the combination of moves to get the right foot in the correct position (which is body shape/strength dependent), position of the foot in the scoop (heel/toe, no heel/toe, point foot downwards, rock onto toe), then the point of spragging the pebble (rather than pulling on it), avoiding the temptation to look up while you're going for the top etc. I've seen it shut down more people than I've seen nail it so there must be something about it that's tricky.

In a way it's your loss - you get your tick but by reaching past the issue you kind of miss out on what makes it a great problem. Then again, maybe I'm just sore 'cos this was one problem where I couldn't just reach past the hard bit!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 08, 2009, 08:42:42 pm
This is a VS you fucking Punters...   :lol: Thin hands??? Jesus H Christ
There are not enough wad points in existence to give you for that  :thumbsup:

Thin hands thin hands lol. Just cup the thumb in a bit more and twist them a bit. Unless the 7c massive have all got some weirdo retarded thumb muscle issue too :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 08, 2009, 08:54:20 pm
This is a VS you fucking Punters...   :lol: Thin hands??? Jesus H Christ
There are not enough wad points in existence to give you for that  :thumbsup:

Thin hands thin hands lol. Just cup the thumb in a bit more and twist them a bit. Unless the 7c massive have all got some weirdo retarded thumb muscle issue too :P

I got thumb issues, and jammiong issues, jamming was only invented for punters who cant climb properly,  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 10, 2009, 12:43:52 pm
I recall once in the dim and distant past there was a comp at The Foundry and someone had the bright idea of putting a jamming crack in the mens final. I remember being most pleased that I hadn't bothered entering when I heard about the fiasco. Someone (cofe you can ask him) might like to correct me on this but I think Jon Barton won or came second as there was only him and Vickers who could jam. How we laughed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on April 10, 2009, 07:20:34 pm
i hope he doesn't see this anecdote. he'll be unbearable.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on April 10, 2009, 08:33:37 pm
Jon is well aware of this anecdote. I'd go as far as saying it's one of his favourites. I'm suprised he's not told you Cofe. I can only think it's becuase he must think you already know. In Jon's version I think he also turns round whilst jamming and waves to the audience. Legend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy Harris on April 10, 2009, 09:17:09 pm
he did turn around and wave at the audience!

everybody else struggled like hell.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on April 10, 2009, 10:40:34 pm
I can only think it's becuase he must think you already know.

let's try and keep it that way. i'm counting on you guys. yeah?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 11, 2009, 07:53:55 am
Plantpot set the route I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on April 12, 2009, 12:56:24 am
he did turn around and wave at the audience!

everybody else struggled like hell.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on April 12, 2009, 07:22:09 pm
Happy Easter everybody!  Another longish term project realised: Crimpy Roof at Brimham (only 3-4 sessions spread over a year or so, a mere dalliance compared to Underhand).  A lovely problem with a fantastic recumbant start that somehow doesn't feel contrived.  Very pleased as big, lock-offy slaps are definitely not my forte, and it was pretty hot and sunny today.  I do sometimes wonder whether I'd have a more impressive ticklist if I could climb in temperatures below 10-15 Centrigrade without Reynauds kicking in.  Hey ho, so it goes.

Think I'll celebrate with some Belgian ale and a big piece of curd tart, it's what Jesus would have wanted.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 12, 2009, 07:37:18 pm
good effort on goal, but easter has nothing to do with jesus
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on April 12, 2009, 08:03:08 pm
you go tell the Pope that.... (besides I figured that the already weak comic-effect might be diluted by an explanatory paragraph about Germanic goddesses and folk customs).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 12, 2009, 08:05:53 pm
Moose, are you the same Moose from YorkshireGrit?  The one that always waits for me to tick a problem I find tough, then votes it about 3 grades lower?  :lol:

Just wondered  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 12, 2009, 08:31:25 pm
you go tell the Pope that....


I will , we had a big argument last night about easter, its a pagan holiday not a christian
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on April 12, 2009, 09:17:16 pm
Moose, are you the same Moose from YorkshireGrit?  The one that always waits for me to tick a problem I find tough, then votes it about 3 grades lower?  :lol:

Aye that's me... sorry if I'm contributing to any tick-list deflation!  Mind you, I've lately refrained from grade-voting as my sense of difficulty has gone absolutely haywire.  It was bad enough when I was merely freakishly tall and spindly, but I've lately been getting bizarrely strong in some respects whilst remaining pitiful at others.  Having more days than ever now where I find 7b/7b+'s that are easier than 6b's?! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 12, 2009, 10:48:47 pm
you go tell the Pope that....


I will , we had a big argument last night about easter, its a pagan holiday not a christian

so when jesus got crucified on good friday and rose again on easter sunday and christians celebrate this and we live in a christian country, this is nothing to do with christianity? eggs aside, have you been reading too much da vinci code and you also believe that francis bacon was shakespeare?  :-*

edit : it probably is a pagan holiday as well but it is also a christian one, they do share a lot of shit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 12, 2009, 10:56:12 pm
I think jesus would have been bearing down at Brimham today. After stuffing himself with easter eggs for breakfast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: philo on April 12, 2009, 11:03:29 pm
had one of those amazing days when you have the whole crag to yourself in the sunshine.  went with my bro to shaftoe and pottered around doing easy stuff and did slapper 3rd go.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2009, 08:01:50 am

edit : it probably is a pagan holiday as well but it is also a christian one, they do share a lot of shit

Like Xmas. It didn't originate as a christian celebration, but it certainly is in modern times. Why else would I have been dragged off to church twice a year in my youth.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 13, 2009, 08:30:46 am

Like Xmas. It didn't originate as a christian celebration, they just half inched it and then burned anyone who complained.

 
 :agree:  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Houdini on April 13, 2009, 09:04:09 am
Amusingly, the banner at the bottom on the page as I type reads:  Crucifiction*  Did Jesus beat Death?   :lol:

[*haha nice typo]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 13, 2009, 09:31:57 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-NOZU2iPA8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-NOZU2iPA8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 13, 2009, 09:42:32 am
Crucifiction*
[*haha nice typo]

It might be deliberate? Great name for a problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Serpico on April 13, 2009, 10:22:58 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-NOZU2iPA8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-NOZU2iPA8)

1:43  Sounds like Jesus should be put on the register.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on April 13, 2009, 11:21:49 am
http://www.youtube.com/v/dG9tuuznL1Y (http://www.youtube.com/v/dG9tuuznL1Y)

(Also amusing is that Houds avatar has been replaced by a message from Photobucket about violating their terms of use. I can't imagine how Hitler pic can do that)

Or, for the ex-punks amongst us...
http://www.youtube.com/v/kzMjGbSoTj4 (http://www.youtube.com/v/kzMjGbSoTj4)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 14, 2009, 04:22:23 pm
An enjoyable afternoon at Curbar included the ultimate gritstone experiencee, I can't believe I've never seen this before, must have head my choss radar on rather than quality line asdic, anyway after doing the stand up on my third go (I missed the key hold on the flash and then faffed to failure on the second try) I did the sitter first try.  Not much I know but a good end to the day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on April 14, 2009, 04:40:45 pm
Ohhh, interesting - was going to head out this afternoon but settled for getting shut down on the new Works comp wall problems instead. Off out this week so I'll seek it out!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 16, 2009, 01:58:06 pm
Dreamland at the cliff. Done properly this time!!
I would like to say I went and nailed it, but it took me a good hour to figure the tall mans foot placements..
Great problem, it really teased me! Flash repeated a 6c traverse, so a good day at the cliff!
Tom
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on April 16, 2009, 02:17:08 pm
An enjoyable afternoon at Curbar included the ultimate gritstone experiencee, I can't believe I've never seen this before, must have head my choss radar on rather than quality line asdic, anyway after doing the stand up on my third go (I missed the key hold on the flash and then faffed to failure on the second try) I did the sitter first try.  Not much I know but a good end to the day.
 
wasn't this block supposed to be falling over.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on April 16, 2009, 02:24:20 pm
 
wasn't this block supposed to be falling over.

Well Sloper pulled onto it 4 times and it didn't seem to move but I was rather focused on beating a hasty tactical retreat spotting Sloper at the time so it could well have tipped over a few more degrees without me knowing about it.

TTT - go seek it out - fridge hugging with a bit of footwork thrown in - it is a quality problem to say the least.

bluebrad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 17, 2009, 11:51:25 am
YYFY - another Dumby classic gets crushed!

I've mainly been chuffing recently, but went down Dumby last night as the forecast was bon and rumours of fast repeats of Pongo Arete were in the air!

After a short (too short :spank:) warm-up, I was well psyched to try and flash Pongo-Arete. Now, I've done Pongo which shares most a fair few moves, so it would never be pure flash.

Anyhows, I managed to flash all the moves into where it joins Pongo, but couldn't retroflash the top :'(

Oh well.

I had another two goes, both times getting through to the final jugs and rockover, got pumped, fell off  :furious:

Some of the other guys then arrived and started having goes, Neil, who likes to believe he's weak and can't boulder, managed to get up it, using twice as many holds and half the power I do!

This returned the psyche, so I had a another go, got through to the final jugs again, rocked over, tried to snatch the good incut, failed, slapped a forearm on the jug, crimped the wrong side of the final block with the wrong hand, unleashed the knee and dispatched :-\ :-[

I'm pretty convinced I made the least stylish but most amusing top-out of that problem ever witnessed! Awesome  8)

My flatmate, the microbeast, then got on the sending train and topped out with a modicum more style than me  :thumbsup:

Quality problem and psyched to get my first Fb7a+ of the year!

Strange sore forearm today though - the muscle kind feels weird if I try to crush things. :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 17, 2009, 11:54:31 am
What is Pongo arete?? Is it the arete right of Pongo - an unstarred 6b in the guide but has always looked better than that - from a sitter??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 17, 2009, 12:06:04 pm
Nah, that's still the unstarred 6b!

It starts on the holds directly below pongo crack (as for pongo sit start), LH into the crack, slap the arete. Move up the arete until you can move back left into the pinch and finger lock near the top of pongo, finish as for the other variants.

Probably my favourite of the different variants - really nice moves and much better since the trees got removed. The crux is the "roboclamp" and fingerlock!

Get on it next time you're about.

Chris (CJD) was hanging around eyeing up Supersize me!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 17, 2009, 12:06:43 pm
Pongo arete does the sitter for Pongo, but using the arete as well, then finishing up Pongo.  
The arete from sitting without holds on Pongo is awkward- Andy's Arete- to finish up the arete, about 7b+ ballpark.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: IanP on April 19, 2009, 07:21:22 am
In the spirit of this thread as a positive affirmation of everything that is great about climbing (rather than just a good opportunity to let everyone know you've got a good tick in  :great:) :

YYFY, ticked Baboo Baboo as my first 8a* yesterday.  Culmination of a campaign to try to make a proper effort to get fit which started as I approached my 40th birthday 2 years ago.

Very happy  ;D

Should maybe have a NNFN because I'm in the office at the moment but I don't really care.

* anyone who still thinks Baboo is 7c+ can feel free not to post
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on April 19, 2009, 10:25:47 am
Good effort Ian! Really pleased for you mate nice one! That unscrupulous Farnell chap has almost got me on the catwalk with you after his call last night.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on April 19, 2009, 11:38:43 am
It's not climbing related but I don't care.  I survived the Inverness to Glasgow bike ride! YYFY!!  :dance1:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 19, 2009, 05:35:56 pm
Not quite the YYFY I was hoping for but still 7C in the forest (Carnage Assis) and 7B+ flash (Barre Fixe, yes I know it's soft) were the pleasing highlights of two weeks of fun in the forest :thumbsup:.

8A will have to wait until next year...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 19, 2009, 05:54:14 pm
I struggle to see how adding a crappy sit start to Carnage made your week but each to their own (hope you didn't use the RH crimp up the top on the assis  :-[ )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 19, 2009, 06:05:04 pm
Bleau says the right hand crimp is allowed :)

And yes OK it is a crappy sit start, there are other problems I'd rather have done but time/venue/temperature constraints meant this was the gradarific (if not the quality) high point.

I would however agree with you that Noir Desir is amazing and would be a far more fitting high point sadly the poor condition of the top slopy pocket scuppered my plans...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 19, 2009, 06:53:50 pm
YYFY!
:beer1:

We just made our first final in 14 years! It's been coming and I think Moyes really deserves it.
Shit game but absolutely made up to beat the Mancs.
Nice one  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Zods Beard on April 19, 2009, 08:21:34 pm
I had to listen to this game in work with a load of Utd fans, made it all the more sweeter. Get in.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 19, 2009, 08:49:21 pm
7B+ flash (Barre Fixe, yes I know it's soft)

I'm interested to know what you think it should be; and how you did it. I have no idea what to think  :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 19, 2009, 09:06:47 pm
What do you mean you have no idea what to think?

I've got some footage of two different sequences one of my onsight/flash sequence and a friend using a different sequence (which is felt much the same to me). I'll edit it and stick it on vimeo.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 19, 2009, 10:32:07 pm
Clip of Barre Fixe lagers.
http://vimeo.com/4229927 (http://vimeo.com/4229927)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on April 19, 2009, 10:43:11 pm
I pissed that Nik, and I'm a homo. If you're taking 7b+ for that, I'll shave your head.     Oh.

(Well done on the carnage assiss business.)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 19, 2009, 10:57:25 pm
It's a morpho problem.  "Barre Fixe" translates literally as "easier for Benders".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on April 19, 2009, 11:09:49 pm
In that case can we start another list, "8a's for Barre fixe benders"
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3604/3364622518_179a5868a5_o.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: n_man on April 20, 2009, 05:55:59 am
Sorry Nik I thought twas easy for 7b   :wave:  easy to say from afar. Think of all the bone hard 7b+ probs in the forest....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: n_man on April 20, 2009, 06:01:03 am
On a more positive note I managed three awesome waves on Saturday, going along the green face and everything, real progress  :bounce: and caught a few good uns toady.

Will have to get some booties cos the Pacific is getting bloody cold (going to winter here). I swear if a shark had nibbled on my toes I wouldn't have known.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 20, 2009, 06:59:22 am
I agree with you all (which is why I shaved my head Stallion).

It's in the definitive book as 7B+ and Bleau still has it listed as 7B+. But now I'm back here in the land of knowledge I realise the truth.

Oh and Barre Fixe literally translates as "Easier for a massive group of Germans who use the blatantly NOT in foot block to do the first moves then get all excited about having crushed 7B+ in Font".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 20, 2009, 07:29:54 am
get all excited about having crushed flashed 7B+ in Font


 :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 20, 2009, 07:46:16 am
OK OK :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on April 20, 2009, 08:32:03 am
In the spirit of this thread as a positive affirmation of everything that is great about climbing (rather than just a good opportunity to let everyone know you've got a good tick in  :great:) :

YYFY, ticked Baboo Baboo as my first 8a* yesterday.  Culmination of a campaign to try to make a proper effort to get fit which started as I approached my 40th birthday 2 years ago.

Very happy  ;D

* anyone who still thinks Baboo is 7c+ can feel free not to post

Well done Ian, you did cruise it in the end.  :great: and I hope you enjoyed a  :beer1: or 3  when you got home.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 20, 2009, 09:31:50 pm
well to put my pennies worth inn



I thought Barre Fixe was fuking nails, Took me about 30 goes and i had about 6 flappers for the trouble,

I thought carnage sit start was easier


Take 7b for them both



anyway nice to meet you in the forest nik, did you manage to get back to buthiers on the old traverse.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 20, 2009, 10:12:21 pm
Good to meet you too Neil, always nice to put a face to a name, and anyone who can add weight to the "move to Font" debate with my wife is a good egg :).

Was back there at the end of the last day with no skin and sore elbows, but figured out the move to drop down to the pocket. I can't do the heel or toe hook so I have to do it similar to Uncle only with my right foot in a slightly different position. Trouble is once I've got the pocket I can't then swap my feet (I'm either too short or lack enough body tension, you decide)so the pretty steady dyno slap to the pinch off the right foot became a totally blind wild slap off the left foot. Managed to stick it a couple of times but then messed up the foot placement for the next move - doh!
Oh well, should go pretty quickly next time I'm over (fingers crossed). Did you get back on it?

I really liked Buthiers.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 21, 2009, 09:26:57 am
almost did it the other night, but some time soon I guess, I  have it alll dialed now...


see you when you move here then  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on April 22, 2009, 07:01:28 pm
Bit of a YYFY.... I think.... :-\ Last night I finally ticked little gem at Burbage. To be honest I'm not sure how I feel about having done this, it's been a semi-project of mine for years now, I'd always have a play when warming up and now it's done it just feels a bit empty.... :shrug:

Was great to do it, I'm not sure it warrants 7b tho.... Think the biggest tick of the evening was getting home and leaving the car boot wide open with my pad and boots on display and nothing getting nicked.. :oops:

: D

 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on April 22, 2009, 07:11:36 pm
Nice one thats a cool problem for sure, if a bit small. I think its definitely 7b, i have seen 7b+ for this in Winter sessions! I did it with my own sequence which was desparate and then watched the vid and saw how you're supposed to do it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on April 22, 2009, 07:33:56 pm
Cheers man..

Just checked Bonjoys 7+8's and I'll take the tick seeing as I didn't even jump start... Must be something in the air  :thumbsup:

I tried it 2 ways, one on with the low left hold, taking the seam with the right then matching. which definitely seemed doable if a little awkward to move your feet for the final move. Ended up doing it by just pulling onto the 2 crimps, reaching for the bottom of the seam with the left then pulling up and going again to get the good bit, was then just a case of sorting out the feet and smearing with the left to hit the top. Might watch the vid to see how it's supposed to be done. :-\

I agree it definitely could do with being a bit longer  ;D

: D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 22, 2009, 08:02:46 pm
Which one is little gem?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on April 22, 2009, 08:10:35 pm
Its the tiny wall on the high ground overlooking Burbage South quarry (to the left of Wizard Ridge) in amongst some easier probs.

Yeah, I just laybacked up the seam for a final tenuous pop for the top, but the vid shows Moony holding onto the starting crimp/slot for his RH while reaching for the seam with his LH til the last moment, releasing his RH and then going straight for the top.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on April 22, 2009, 08:35:06 pm
What do you mean you have no idea what to think?

I've got some footage of two different sequences one of my onsight/flash sequence and a friend using a different sequence (which is felt much the same to me). I'll edit it and stick it on vimeo.

I thought this was 7a+? It was tough for the grade though :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 22, 2009, 10:29:00 pm
Oh leave poor nik alone, he's only little.


His dress sense on the other hand. I remain unconvinced by the football-fan-on-font-tour look...

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on April 22, 2009, 11:01:10 pm
What do you mean you have no idea what to think?

I've got some footage of two different sequences one of my onsight/flash sequence and a friend using a different sequence (which is felt much the same to me). I'll edit it and stick it on vimeo.

I thought this was 7a+? It was tough for the grade though :)

Sorry this wasn't meant to come across as being wanky.  I thought that was the grade in the guide I was using.  I also didn't flash it BTW I did however campus it after the 1st move hahahaha
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 22, 2009, 11:08:06 pm
YYFY

According to his text today, Grumpycrumpy linked the sitter into the arete to the right of Deliverence.

Easily the hardest thing he has done so far.

Good effort  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 23, 2009, 04:31:20 am
YYFY!

Sent Chemin De Fer at Dumbarton last night, since moving to Glasgow in August I've been terrified by this massive overhanging crack at Dumbarton Rock, I kept putting it off and telling myself I wasn't fit enough, finally setting off up it last night felt a bit strange and just as shit yer pants scary as I thought it would be.

Unfortunately I blew the on-sight but pulled the ropes and got it a couple of goes after, how I managed to top out in the state I was in I'll never know!?!

E5 6a my arse!
 
:great:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 23, 2009, 08:05:40 am
Hey, I've failed to onsight some personally challenging routes recently, too!! Woohoo.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2009, 08:10:24 am

Sent Chemin De Fer at Dumbarton last night


Good work, Requiem next.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on April 23, 2009, 08:31:08 am

Sent Chemin De Fer at Dumbarton last night



Nice work. I've heard it is stern...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 23, 2009, 10:25:54 am
New Jerusalem last night (amongst the midges)... been a good week, repeated two 7a's at the cliff earlier in the week...
Failed on the pinch and cream egg eliminate though!  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 23, 2009, 10:58:15 am
Hey, I've failed to onsight some personally challenging routes recently, too!! Woohoo.

That was a bit unfair. Its always really demanding - and rewarding - to get on those routes that you're really built yourself up for. Good effort Willackers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 23, 2009, 12:00:04 pm
Chemin de Fer is no pushover, I know only a couple of people to do it onsight.  I failed to onsight it the same day I took a groundfall from Woops, didn't get back on either of them :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 23, 2009, 01:05:23 pm
Hey, I've failed to onsight some personally challenging routes recently, too!! Woohoo.

Did you get back on them?
 
:P

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 23, 2009, 02:01:18 pm
Oh leave poor nik alone, he's only little.

His dress sense on the other hand. I remain unconvinced by the football-fan-on-font-tour look...


Don't worry,I am never wearing shorts again. I know my limits and will be sticking to Jeans and a hoodie from now on...

Dylan it gets 7B+ in 7+8's and is also listed as 7B+ on bleau.info, but what do they know? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 23, 2009, 07:26:59 pm
New Jerusalem last night (amongst the midges)... been a good week, repeated two 7a's at the cliff earlier in the week...
Failed on the pinch and cream egg eliminate though!  :)

Was that you with Sandbag Steve last night then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 23, 2009, 07:33:47 pm
New Jerusalem last night (amongst the midges)... been a good week, repeated two 7a's at the cliff earlier in the week...
Failed on the pinch and cream egg eliminate though!  :)

Was that you with Sandbag Steve last night then?
Thats right  :) were you trying the arete on the corner of the bootcrack/black jumper boulder? Good to put a name to a face.. you have a good eve? I was pretty flaked out/shredded tips by that point.. still scratching my midge bites!

I've not been to Caley for a couple of years - and I'm climbing much better than my last visit, so it was great just trying all these new problems that previously were way out of reach! Ace - its like being at a new crag yet I'd been there loads of times before... cream egg eliminate looks like its going to provide hours of fun!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 23, 2009, 07:45:45 pm
Yeah that was us on Backstabber, I was the messy-haired one with the grey hoody on. We would have stayed for longer but we had to get the bus back! I had a good evening, but then I always do at caley...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2009, 09:08:50 am
Hey, I've failed to onsight some personally challenging routes recently, too!! Woohoo.

Did you get back on them?

Nah, if I've failed, I've failed. I might have posted in NNFN, I guess, but they weren't particularly meaningful failures. :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on April 24, 2009, 10:38:33 am
Nah, if I've failed, I've failed.
Get thee back to UKC Satan :spank:

There's no such thing as failure, it's all just progress....

Says the man who failed to do both zippys and help the young last night   :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 24, 2009, 10:53:32 am
Did you use the correct beta on Zippy's?  I hear the ground is in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 24, 2009, 11:19:44 am
Hey, I've failed to onsight some personally challenging routes recently, too!! Woohoo.

Did you get back on them?

Nah, if I've failed, I've failed. I might have posted in NNFN, I guess, but they weren't particularly meaningful failures. :shrug:

I didn't see it as a failure, I was chuffed to bits!

Some really good climbers have failed to on-sight it so I didn't feel too bad, It's an amazing line and a classic Scottish test piece and I really enjoyed climbing it in the best style I could, NNFN that i didn't on-sight it but a massive YYFY that I got back on it and ticked it!
 
:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: reeve on April 24, 2009, 11:55:07 am
I didn't see it as a failure, I was chuffed to bits!

Some really good climbers have failed to on-sight it so I didn't feel too bad, It's an amazing line and a classic Scottish test piece and I really enjoyed climbing it in the best style I could, NNFN that i didn't on-sight it but a massive YYFY that I got back on it and ticked it!
 
:)


Indeed, I think one of the biggest barriers lots of people seem to have preventing them having more fun in their climbing is avoiding things in case of failure. Far more dignity and fun in putting in a fight than putting off your ambitions.

Anyway, what's the route like, haven't heard of it before? Brutal jamming action or long pumpy climbing around the crack type action?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2009, 11:56:06 am
Good attitude lad. At least attempting it onsight was a good approach and at least you didn't have a hissy fit when you failed in your attempt (I name no names, but you know who you are).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2009, 11:59:53 am

Anyway, what's the route like, haven't heard of it before? Brutal jamming action or long pumpy climbing around the crack type action?

tut tut sir tut tuthttp://www.needlesports.com/hardrock/extremerocklist.htm (http://www.needlesports.com/hardrock/extremerocklist.htm)

:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2009, 12:05:21 pm
Oh get a grip and name ME as the hissy fitter, I've publicly admitted to tantrums enough times, I'm an expert at it (you got a mild / intermediate one, BTW).

Anyway, I've attempted stuff onsight recently, where's my medal?? :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 24, 2009, 12:06:07 pm
Good attitude lad. At least attempting it onsight was a good approach and at least you didn't have a hissy fit when you failed in your attempt (I name no names, but you know who you are).

Eh...He did, then, once he'd collected the toys and returned them to the pram, he decided to sack it in, but then realised that the easiest way to get his gear back was to climb it, so had another go. To be fair, it was more of a moody, mopey dejected whinge than a full-blown hissy fit  ;)

Pretty inspiring and very worrying watching him trying to do the top-out with arms so pumped they could hardly make fists!


I was thinking about trying it soon, but I think I'll rack up some more E4s and Fr7+s first.... :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 24, 2009, 12:06:25 pm
Cheers.

I did have a bit of a hissy fit, a rather large one actually I was well pissed but I calmed down and had another go.

The routes a massive and slightly overhanging crack, lots of jams and finger locks, there's a tricky leftwards traverse just before you top out which spat me off the go before I did it, it's really pumpy but pretty safe and there's a few in situ bits of gear near the top (which will hold a fall)

If you're fit then it's very on-sightable, hard moves between good shake outs.

*****
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2009, 12:08:06 pm
I'm an expert at it (you got a mild / intermediate one, BTW).

Anyway, I've attempted stuff onsight recently, where's my medal?? :P

Did I?

Name routes and grades and if you were pleased or not and you will get a noddy badge.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 24, 2009, 12:08:18 pm

Anyway, I've attempted stuff onsight recently, where's my medal?? :P

Do I get a medal?
 
:P

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2009, 12:09:55 pm
(http://bp0.blogger.com/_NoaIBawRd-4/R-e0IJZLjPI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/gTTFgrdmdyc/S220/noddy-badge%5B1%5D.jpg)

Just for you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 24, 2009, 12:12:01 pm
(http://bp0.blogger.com/_NoaIBawRd-4/R-e0IJZLjPI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/gTTFgrdmdyc/S220/noddy-badge%5B1%5D.jpg)

Just for you.

YYFY!

Just what I've always wanted!
 
;D

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2009, 12:13:27 pm
Medals for everyone!!

Actually I'd rather have lemonade and crisps to celebrate...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 24, 2009, 12:19:08 pm



Anyway, what's the route like, haven't heard of it before? Brutal jamming action or long pumpy climbing around the crack type action?
[/quote]

chemin.JPG
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2009, 12:39:59 pm
You aint getting no medals for posting properly.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on April 24, 2009, 12:50:47 pm

Pretty inspiring and very worrying watching him trying to do the top-out with arms so pumped they could hardly make fists!

This badge would be more appropriate!!!  ;) :P

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ny8IHquQ3ns/SVvKKzmSuLI/AAAAAAAAALM/ID8lY91-oR4/s320/KFC.jpg)

The chicken wings make another appearance.........

I'll make a tentative date with it for end of June Will!!!  ;) :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on April 24, 2009, 12:54:02 pm
Did you use the correct beta on Zippy's?  I hear the ground is in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag)

i never tire of watching that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 24, 2009, 01:01:45 pm

Pretty inspiring and very worrying watching him trying to do the top-out with arms so pumped they could hardly make fists!

This badge would be more appropriate!!!  ;) :P

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ny8IHquQ3ns/SVvKKzmSuLI/AAAAAAAAALM/ID8lY91-oR4/s320/KFC.jpg)

The chicken wings make another appearance.........

I'll make a tentative date with it for end of June Will!!!  ;) :-\

The one who does not jam!

You'll piss it Dan, if you lay back past the jamming sections and get to the rests you'll be all over it, your warm up for Requiem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 24, 2009, 04:08:21 pm


i never tire of watching that.

 :lol: hope he's not claiming a vaild ascent!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 24, 2009, 04:25:31 pm
Did you use the correct beta on Zippy's?  I hear the ground is in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag)

i never tire of watching that.
:agree:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on April 24, 2009, 04:26:39 pm


i never tire of watching that.

 :lol: hope he's not claiming a vaild ascent!
[/quote]

I like the comment on youtube saying that it didn't help him in anyway :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 24, 2009, 06:48:46 pm
Indeed, I think one of the biggest barriers lots of people seem to have preventing them having more fun in their climbing is avoiding things in case of failure

i fail on everything, and still don't have fun
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 24, 2009, 07:06:00 pm
Did you use the correct beta on Zippy's?  I hear the ground is in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag)

is the correct beta standing on your mat half way up it  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on April 24, 2009, 08:21:44 pm


i never tire of watching that.

 :lol: hope he's not claiming a vaild ascent!


I like the comment on youtube saying that it didn't halp him in anyway :-\

I'm presuming "halp" is some verb I was previously unaware of, with a meaning quite unlike that of "help" as "help" is certainly what you get when you sit on your mat halfway through a problem! :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 24, 2009, 10:00:25 pm
Is this why Scott's found all these sit starts so easy?  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: magpie on April 25, 2009, 08:46:26 am
You lot are cruel, but very funny. :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 25, 2009, 07:56:35 pm
Not bouldering, but just done my first 8a+ in a day. YYFY! Militia at Giggleswick G Spot.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on April 25, 2009, 08:59:54 pm
mega effort going there tommorrow to start working it  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 25, 2009, 09:03:34 pm
Nice one Adam. What's it like? I'm keen to visit Giggleswick this year, was thinking Kleptomania but Militia could tempt me (it's short right?)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 25, 2009, 09:07:34 pm
Nice one Adam. What's it like? I'm keen to visit Giggleswick this year, was thinking Kleptomania but Militia could tempt me (it's short right?)

Well, i did Kleptomania yesterday, that is basically a V7 on a rope, as you do an easy bit of climbing to a knee bar. Then just 4 moves. Clipping the chain whilst inverted is a tad spicy. I blew it doing that once!

As for Militia. Big moves off goodish holds. Quite powerful and very bouldery. Crux being a throw for a good hold which you need to be accurate for.

Both great routes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 25, 2009, 09:19:13 pm
Good knowledge. My interest is growing...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 25, 2009, 09:32:29 pm
Good knowledge. My interest is growing...

PS. Effort on your crushage today  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 25, 2009, 09:37:11 pm
Get you Holmes :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 25, 2009, 09:40:29 pm
He studies 8a.nu lists on a half hourly basis.  Nothing escapes him :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: n_man on April 26, 2009, 09:24:19 am
Quote
As for Militia. Big moves off goodish holds. Quite powerful and very bouldery. Crux being a throw for a good hold which you need to be accurate for.

Then clip off the good hold then do a big move of it (if I remember correctly) I blew that a few times as well. My right arm just got knackered. The start was very bouldery to the break on little holds as well.

I think Militia is a better route though they are both good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 26, 2009, 09:35:39 pm

YYFY!

Raindogs on Saturday then The Maximum on Sunday!
 
:thumbsup:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on April 26, 2009, 09:40:50 pm
The Maximum on Sunday!
 

So it will be nicely ready for me tomorrow  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on April 27, 2009, 01:03:46 pm
Did you use the correct beta on Zippy's?  I hear the ground is in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAj62T-xIag)

i never tire of watching that.
:agree:

 :o I thought I was missing something... Best go tick it now I've got the numbers :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 30, 2009, 08:24:37 pm
yyfy, manged to do La Coccinelle today, get in, after days and days of effort over the last few months


and YYFY got my first chain saw,  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Averageman on April 30, 2009, 08:29:03 pm
Good effort Neil, three stars  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 30, 2009, 08:33:59 pm
just got the three star bit, dont worry you can gave your revenge in about an hour  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 30, 2009, 09:34:43 pm
Nice one Neil.

For me it will have to be next year (or later this year if I'm very lucky)...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 01, 2009, 09:11:19 am
Good stuff Neil. Sometimes it's all the sweeter when you've had to put the hours (and hour and hours) in!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on May 01, 2009, 10:55:02 am
Nice one Neil.

For me it will have to be next year (or later this year if I'm very lucky)...

found a good way to do the end, dont know why i didnt thnk of it months ago, so easy, you remember how we were trying it, check this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nia0Wxhh7sE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nia0Wxhh7sE)

Good stuff Neil. Sometimes it's all the sweeter when you've had to put the hours (and hour and hours) in!

cheers jasper. hours and hours for sure, and lots and lots of blood, the way I do the drop into the pocket and jump slices the back of my leg to peices
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on May 01, 2009, 12:15:18 pm
Where the f*ck is the lank sequence smiley?  ;D

Nice one neil, I reckon the key to hitting the pocket is to totally ignore the handy thumb catch next to it and hit it like a three fingered hook!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on May 01, 2009, 05:24:09 pm
dont know why i struggled on the end when yes indeed i did lank it, but god its so easy like that..

I have never had a problem going into the pocket, its the jump from the heel hook that wa the crux for me,
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 02, 2009, 05:51:56 pm
YYFY!!!

Minor in the grand scheme of things, but I on-sighted Moyers Buttress this afternoon.

Its been on my ticklist for some time, and what an amazingly good and varied route. :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 02, 2009, 07:47:38 pm
Hurrah for trad!

I backed off Moyers Buttress years ago. I also more recently fell off trying to reverse to a rest beneath the roof of Stormbringer.

Incidentally if you're ever driving on the A66 with a couple of hours to spare, divert off to Pallet Crag and do Kermit, it's the Moyer's Buttress of Pallet Crag - a smaller easier version but a cool wee route  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 02, 2009, 09:46:00 pm
YYFY!!!

Minor in the grand scheme of things, but I on-sighted Moyers Buttress this afternoon.

Its been on my ticklist for some time, and what an amazingly good and varied route. :D

Great work - did it myself the other week, had been a glaring omission from my climbing CV for a while. Thought the slab was a touch more though-provoking that I would have liked!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 03, 2009, 08:21:46 am
Cheers guys.

Great work - did it myself the other week, had been a glaring omission from my climbing CV for a while. Thought the slab was a touch more though-provoking that I would have liked!



Good skills too.  Main problem with the upper slab was that protecting it seemed to use the best hand holds up!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andybfreeman on May 05, 2009, 01:57:26 pm
small beer by comparison to most posts on here but I've just got back from font and am chuffed to bits with my first consensus 7a tick - l'oblique at Roche Aux Sabots.   :bounce:

It more than makes up for my disappointment to find that my previous first 7a, le toit du cul de chien, only gets 6c in the 7 and 8 guide!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on May 05, 2009, 02:00:40 pm
I'd give you 7a easily for toit de cul de chien!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oli on May 05, 2009, 02:45:52 pm
I reckon Cul de Chien is fair at 7A. Did it both with and without the chip, and it didn't seem to make much difference.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on May 05, 2009, 02:55:27 pm
le toit du cul de chien, only gets 6c in the 7 and 8 guide!

That's ridiculous, of course it's 7a.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Clart on May 05, 2009, 03:04:27 pm
I reckon Cul de Chien is fair at 7A. Did it both with and without the chip, and it didn't seem to make much difference.

Are you on about the seriously improved right foot smear (now a good positive edge) in the middle of the bottom face? I thought it was loads better than I remembered. Agree that it doesn't make much difference to the grade though, 7A.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on May 05, 2009, 03:12:59 pm
I think a lot of the grade bullshit on TDCDC comes from fact that it used to be done just hanging the roof pocket with feet in front of you and pulling for the lip pocket, in the days before mats since A, putting heel above your head in the back of the roof would have been potentially terminal, and B as paulB will attest to, the rear end of the human foot is a recent innovation.

so when mats come in and the heel beta gets found the old guard probably felt hard done to that people no longer han to essentially do a font 7b mono pull to tick a 7a, plus it made it easier for the tall, and downgraded that method in the guides (hence it always used to get a split 6c/7a grade. the fact of the matter is that the heel way was really fair 7a, and the non-heel beta is probably 7a+/b or harder though less scary. then that big foothold got chipped in recent years. to be honest given this is one of the most famous problem in font I've no idea why locals/cosiroc didn't just cement up the chip and look after it a bit. people probably should avoid this chip just on principle, if you can do it with the chip then i recon you can do it without.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on May 05, 2009, 05:32:25 pm
YYFY!!!
Minor in the grand scheme of things, but I on-sighted Moyers Buttress this afternoon.

Good work fella.... I remember procrastinating for ages over that move back onto the front face - getting incredibly pumped hanging from the break before going for it in rather frantic style.  I hope you celebrated with some cakes from the cafe on the green in Baslow!

Had a YYFY of my own from the weekend: finally climbed at Malham.  It had been a shameful omission given that I'm a limestone loving Yorkshireman - especially considering the amount of climbing I've done at the likes of Stoney and various Peak quarries.  After Wombat and Crossbones the rest of the trad season has a lot to live up to.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 05, 2009, 05:39:20 pm
YYFY!!!
Minor in the grand scheme of things, but I on-sighted Moyers Buttress this afternoon.

Good work fella.... I remember procrastinating for ages over that move back onto the front face - getting incredibly pumped hanging from the break before going for it in rather frantic style.  I hope you celebrated with some cakes from the cafe on the green in Baslow!

Had a YYFY of my own from the weekend: finally climbed at Malham.  It had been a shameful omission given that I'm a limestone loving Yorkshireman - especially considering the amount of climbing I've done at the likes of Stoney and various Peak quarries.  After Wombat and Crossbones the rest of the trad season has a lot to live up to.
Did you get Underhand done Moose? Not seen you under there for a while..?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on May 05, 2009, 06:09:15 pm
Did you get Underhand done Moose? Not seen you under there for a while..?

Aye - did Underhand a couple of months back.  It's been a pretty good spring - lots of good things ticked-off from the list (Two Squirrels, The Grouch, Crimpy Roof etc).  Expect to see me back under that roof though - I've designs on the extension (and the Keel.. and Fieldside.... and Streaky's.... Almscliff: It's just one bloody thing after another).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 05, 2009, 06:29:41 pm
Did you get Underhand done Moose? Not seen you under there for a while..?

Aye - did Underhand a couple of months back.  It's been a pretty good spring - lots of good things ticked-off from the list (Two Squirrels, The Grouch, Crimpy Roof etc).  Expect to see me back under that roof though - I've designs on the extension (and the Keel.. and Fieldside.... and Streaky's.... Almscliff: It's just one bloody thing after another).
Good effort sir - I've been eyeing up underhand (though not played on it yet) so may well pester you for some beta when I pluck up the courage get round to it! T
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chappers on May 05, 2009, 09:47:11 pm
small beer by comparison to most posts on here but I've just got back from font and am chuffed to bits with my first consensus 7a tick - l'oblique at Roche Aux Sabots.   :bounce:

It more than makes up for my disappointment to find that my previous first 7a, le toit du cul de chien, only gets 6c in the 7 and 8 guide!

id give you more 7a for le toit than l'oblique!

good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andybfreeman on May 05, 2009, 10:32:36 pm
small beer by comparison to most posts on here but I've just got back from font and am chuffed to bits with my first consensus 7a tick - l'oblique at Roche Aux Sabots.   :bounce:

It more than makes up for my disappointment to find that my previous first 7a, le toit du cul de chien, only gets 6c in the 7 and 8 guide!

id give you more 7a for le toit than l'oblique!

good effort.

cheers guys.

i'd used the smear on tdcdc when i did it last august and i remember it being harder than i found l'oblique last week, but i'd put that down to a decent winter of training at the academy! i'm now trying to get some more time off work to head back before the end of may to finish some problems that i tried but failed due to lack of time (or strength/technique!). i am officially addicted to the forest! ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on May 05, 2009, 10:40:13 pm
YYFY!!! best gogarth weekend ever: The Cow, Dogs of War, on yellow wall,  Penny / Katana on holyhead mt, South Sea Bubble, Blue Peter, the Cad on north stack wall and Metal Guru / Golden Bough finish in wen zawn..... not too upset with Monday's appalling weather after that lot!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tommy on May 05, 2009, 11:35:18 pm
Nice one Southerner! Now that's what I call a good solid Gogarth weekend - fucking ace tick list that. Good to see you got the Cad done - I'm sure you cruised it in your usual nonchalant style....  ;D

Tom
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2009, 08:38:14 am
That's some serious gogarth ticking.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 06, 2009, 09:36:15 am
Props to that. Two routes a day is usually plenty for me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Teaboy on May 06, 2009, 10:23:55 am
YYFY!!! best gogarth weekend ever: The Cow, Dogs of War, on yellow wall,  Penny / Katana on holyhead mt, South Sea Bubble, Blue Peter, the Cad on north stack wall and Metal Guru / Golden Bough finish in wen zawn..... not too upset with Monday's appalling weather after that lot!

Nice one. What was the second pitch of The Cow like as I hear differing views?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 06, 2009, 03:38:58 pm
not bouldering related, but YYFY nonetheless.
today i've been asked by the school's director if i fancied to go to elba island, all paid, for two weeks, to teach italian in another partner school.
can you guess what my answer was????
 :thumbsup:

http://www.virtualelba.it/ (http://www.virtualelba.it/)

did i ever tell you the island is covered in granite boulders? if i didn't, well, "the island is covered in granite boulders".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 06, 2009, 03:47:45 pm
Sweet. Do they have any "partner schools" in the Paris area? I bet you've already looked into that!  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 06, 2009, 04:17:53 pm
Nice one Nibs, I'll drop you an email.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on May 06, 2009, 06:31:34 pm
Nice one Southerner! Now that's what I call a good solid Gogarth weekend

How was Dogs of War?  I never seem to get round to doing it  ;) 


Nice one. What was the second pitch of The Cow like as I hear differing views?

I thought standard Gogarth E3 climbing in a wild position.  Shouldn't be an issue if you get up p1.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on May 06, 2009, 09:54:47 pm
cheers people!

Cow pitch two is awesome ... wild, wierd moves and really good gear in an absolutely stunning position.

Dogs of War i really liked, its probably not to everyone's taste, but the only significantly funny bit (on pitch 2) actually has some decent gear. The rock is sort of odd and soft but by no means nightmarish. Saying that its probably not a good idea to get panicy and start yarding on things really hard (not that i can yard hard even when i want to...)

anyone done Ludwig?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 06, 2009, 09:56:48 pm
the Cad

How was it? Its on the list of routes i must do. (But am put off doing it after hearing all the stories!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 06, 2009, 09:58:16 pm
F6c but runout on snappy crimps -mega
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 06, 2009, 10:00:15 pm
F6c but runout on snappy crimps -mega

With my hold removal history, great...  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 06, 2009, 10:01:13 pm
at least theres no longer any bolts to clip  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on May 06, 2009, 10:06:12 pm
at least theres no longer any bolts to clip  ;)

Just as well given my record on that front too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2009, 10:10:09 pm
today i've been asked by the school's director if i fancied to go to elba island, all paid, for two weeks,

As Napoleon said - able i was ere i saw elba. Sounds good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 06, 2009, 10:14:39 pm
today i've been asked by the school's director if i fancied to go to elba island, all paid, for two weeks,

As Napoleon said - able i was ere i saw elba. Sounds good.
Good to see you never miss a plandromic opportunity!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on May 06, 2009, 10:18:00 pm


anyone done Ludwig?

Aye. Was put off trying it for years by the description in the old guidebook, but when the North Wales Selected came out thought "hmm". Basically a poorly protected move (rusty in situ wire) into the bottom of the groove, then decent gear all the way to the top. Watch out for pitch 1 though which is more like E5 6a, not 5c. Great route.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on May 07, 2009, 01:24:59 am
As Napoleon said - able i was ere i saw elba. Sounds good.
Good to see you never miss a p[a]landromic opportunity!  ;D
So surely it should be "Able was I, ere I saw Elba"? Just to be pedantic ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on May 07, 2009, 08:07:24 am


anyone done Ludwig?

Aye. Was put off trying it for years by the description in the old guidebook, but when the North Wales Selected came out thought "hmm". Basically a poorly protected move (rusty in situ wire) into the bottom of the groove, then decent gear all the way to the top. Watch out for pitch 1 though which is more like E5 6a, not 5c. Great route.

cheers TB, sounds pretty appealing, good beta on the 'easy pitch' too. I recently did Blackleg, which has a sort of similar syndrome on pitch 2 as far as i recall ....

the Cad

How was it? Its on the list of routes i must do. (But am put off doing it after hearing all the stories!)


sort of alright, i guess Chris' comment is about on it, although it is the sort of thing i would have struggled to give  French grade to to be honest: its not like you get pumped or that it feels really hard anywhere, but i imagine things would not be too pretty if panic set in half way through the massive run out. Its also surprisingly hairy, but not in a bad way !  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2009, 08:16:52 am
As Napoleon said - able i was ere i saw elba. Sounds good.
Good to see you never miss a p[a]landromic opportunity!  ;D
So surely it should be "Able was I, ere I saw Elba"? Just to be pedantic ;)

You are right, my apogolies.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 07, 2009, 09:45:40 am
As Napoleon said - able i was ere i saw elba. Sounds good.
Good to see you never miss a p[a]landromic opportunity!  ;D
So surely it should be "Able was I, ere I saw Elba"? Just to be pedantic ;)
Can not believe I missed the 'a' out...  :spank:

You are right, my apogolies.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 07, 2009, 09:46:58 am
Awesome quoting there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 07, 2009, 09:52:17 am
Its a Pal [ i ] ndrome anyway.

edit: fucking too clever by half html
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2009, 09:53:57 am
Actually it's palindrome. Invented by Michale Palin.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 07, 2009, 10:31:53 am
Its a Pal [ i ] ndrome anyway.

edit: fucking too clever by half html

I noticed this was edited JB, was it a typo?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 07, 2009, 12:32:44 pm
No, I copied the above and put the spelling mistake in brackets, but the forum assumed I was formatting it into italics.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 07, 2009, 12:39:48 pm
No, I copied the above and put the spelling mistake in brackets, but the forum assumed I was formatting it into italics.
:) No worries - I was just trying to make myself feel better about my own apalling spelling...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 07, 2009, 01:18:58 pm

 :) No worries - I was just trying to make myself feel better about my own apalling spelling...

Use Firefox and install the English Dictionary (https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/browse/type:3) Add-on (and any other languages you want).

You then get red-underlining when you mis-spell a word so you can correct it (as in many WYSIWYG word-processing applications.  Or be really, really lazy and right-click and select the correct spelling, or add a word to a custom dictionary.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2009, 01:48:26 pm
No, I copied the above and put the spelling mistake in brackets, but the forum assumed I was formatting it into italics.

I wondered what you were up to.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 07, 2009, 01:58:21 pm
Actually it's palindrome. Invented by Michale Palin.
exactly, form "palin" and the greek "trekein" (to run). it means "to run away from palin".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 07, 2009, 01:59:12 pm
Nice one Nibs, I'll drop you an email.
hey i'm intrigued!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 08, 2009, 02:07:28 pm
still on the subject, then i'll stop postin off topic.
today i called the elba school director to fix the details, i asked him where i'm going to stay, and he answered "you'll stay in the villa, you'll have your own apartment with air conditioned".
then i found this
http://www.tintatacha.it/Immagini/Home/elba/GUIDA_ELBA_1.pdf (http://www.tintatacha.it/Immagini/Home/elba/GUIDA_ELBA_1.pdf)
http://www.tintatacha.it/Immagini/Home/elba/GUIDA_ELBA_1.pdf (http://www.tintatacha.it/Immagini/Home/elba/GUIDA_ELBA_1.pdf)

two weeks, a few dozens of problems...
 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 08, 2009, 02:12:12 pm
Muy Bueno
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on May 10, 2009, 11:10:18 pm
As Napoleon said - able i was ere i saw elba. Sounds good.
Good to see you never miss a p[a]landromic opportunity!  ;D
So surely it should be "Able was I, ere I saw Elba"? Just to be pedantic ;)
Can not believe I missed the 'a' out...  :spank:

You are right, my apogolies.

Ironic?

While I'm posting, I feel the need to celebrate my ascent of Conan the Librarian. I know it's only 6b, but it's taken me fecking ages! Still scared doing the 'top' move (no, I didn't top out), but it's finally done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 10, 2009, 11:53:01 pm
Nice work - I had a 'mare bellyflopping the top (of the problem, not the route...)

Oh, and I took 6b+ for it, don't sell yourself short!  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2009, 08:09:49 am

Ironic?

While I'm posting, I feel the need to celebrate my ascent of Conan the Librarian. I know it's only 6b, but it's taken me fecking ages! Still scared doing the 'top' move (no, I didn't top out), but it's finally done.

No inory intended. And good work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on May 11, 2009, 08:32:55 am

[/quote]

Ironic?

While I'm posting, I feel the need to celebrate my ascent of Conan the Librarian. I know it's only 6b, but it's taken me fecking ages! Still scared doing the 'top' move (no, I didn't top out), but it's finally done.
[/quote]

for a moment i thought you meant you'd been down in wen zawn...
fine effort my friend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on May 12, 2009, 12:44:23 am
for a moment i thought you meant you'd been down in wen zawn...
fine effort my friend.

Moi? Been there. Got scared. Didn't like it. Not going back for a while.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 01:02:18 pm
Battered, bruised and with fucked skin I can relax a little after completing four out of five projects,

The grades are a rough approximation and can go up as well as down.  Your ego is at risk if you do not keep up repayments.

Painful pebble 5ish
Stomp the BNP 6a
Something of the right 5+
Fascist diet tribe 6d

A few people know where these problems are, Bluebrad, Mole etc and I'm happy to disclose via pm their location provided people respect the remaining project, at least until I've ahd a couple of sessions on it.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 12, 2009, 01:13:46 pm
Battered, bruised and with fucked skin I can relax a little after completing four out of five projects,

The grades are a rough approximation and can go up as well as down.  Your ego is at risk if you do not keep up repayments.

Painful pebble 5ish
Stomp the BNP 6a
Something of the right 5+
Fascist diet tribe 6d

A few people know where these problems are, Bluebrad, Mole etc and I'm happy to disclose via pm their location provided people respect the remaining project, at least until I've ahd a couple of sessions on it.



I like the introduction of a new grade band here Sloper  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 01:28:36 pm
Its the best problem, of its grade on grit.   ;D

Its probably grade 6 but the desparate top out isn't I think enough ot push it into grade 7.  Fancy a quick repeat?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on May 12, 2009, 02:19:26 pm
Give us a clue as to which name corresponds to which line then by PM if necessary.

So which is the remaining line? The one you fell off the other day?

bluebrad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 03:44:16 pm
The painful pebble is one I cleaned Saturday with John Rushby, really good but a filthy whore of a top out (the left of the really minging wall between the hard project and the others)

Stomp the BNP 6a, from the lip to the nose.

Something of the right 5+ Start low and up the middle.

Fascist diet tribe 6d, soom to be awarded an Oscar for cinematography.

I failed on the hard project going for the break below the hold (and have hurt my foot a bit, but I think that this just might go, obviously it will go if you're not a fat weak punter, but it might just be within my reach).

I also lightly cleaned the hanging block and this looks do-able but proper hard.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on May 12, 2009, 04:40:49 pm

Stomp the BNP 6a, from the lip to the nose.

I also lightly cleaned the hanging block and this looks do-able but proper hard.

If Stomp the BNP is the left hand line I was trying the other day then you have been on the gin suggesting the grade of 6a for that.  ;)

The hanging block will be hard - of that I have no doubt!

bluebrad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 05:25:00 pm
Actually I have been on the gin, I foung my bottle of whittlet neill the other evening and had a very dry martini.

Maybe 6a is harsh, the problem is I think that it's two who grades easier than fascist diet tribe and I'm not convinced that that's 7a, so maybe stomp the bnp is harder than 6a, 6a+ who knows? I don't.

Percy has been sent on a mission to repeat and regrade; so that should settle it once and for all :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on May 12, 2009, 05:44:40 pm

Percy has been sent on a mission to repeat and regrade; so that should settle it once and for all :-\


As I said last week I think Stomp the BNP is 6b so I will await the results of Percy's scientific grading mission with interest... ;)

bluebrad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on May 12, 2009, 09:31:40 pm
No idea what the fuck the grades listed above are all about...... Sloper seems to have located a selection of lovely problems all leading to the same miserable, scrittley mantle top-outs. They are all, without exception in my opinion, totally ungradable. Nice problems, but hideous top-outs, but what ever floats your boats - my boat sank shortly after arrival at the crag. :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 09:40:46 pm
I've had several or is it seven sessions of scrittle, so I'm a bit biased, more traffic should see them clear up; but I agree it's a shame the finish isn't in keeping with the rest of the problems.

Still, 'tis good training for Font :-*
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 13, 2009, 10:47:58 am
Did my new route on Mayfair wall last night, biggest YYFY for a while!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris on May 13, 2009, 02:15:28 pm
good effort mate - good line!

whats next?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 13, 2009, 03:03:22 pm
Dunno maybe the line between Liquid ambar and big bang, nah maybe not
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on May 13, 2009, 08:20:26 pm
Did my new route on Mayfair wall last night, biggest YYFY for a while!

Good work big balls. Get any video?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 13, 2009, 08:27:23 pm


Good work big balls. Get any video?

No i have not
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: biscuit on May 16, 2009, 07:07:35 pm
After a year or so of lurking on here i finally feel man enough to post as i have a YYFY worth shouting about.

I completely surprised myself by doing Hueco Crack ( standing start ) and followed it half hour later by doing left crack at 7a  :great:

And i reckon the SS to Hueco will go next time as well - i had nothing left when i tried it.

Previous best was a 6b+, which i only got 2 weeks ago.

Fingers still weak as pish though so need to get me a beast maker i think and give this bouldering lark a proper go.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 18, 2009, 03:51:33 pm
That takes the biscuit. Congratulations.



sorry!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on May 25, 2009, 03:41:54 pm
I managed to do High Speed Impact at Churnet today  :) I actually did it twice as I was worried I'd started too high the first time and it felt a bit spicey on my own with one pad. All the problems on that bit of rock are quality.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on May 26, 2009, 08:02:58 pm
I've just been to Longridge and crushed some moves up to at least 4c.  1st time out in 4 weeks.  The finger ached a bit, but seems OK.  Touch wood etc etc

Well, felt like an acheivement to me  :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 26, 2009, 10:20:29 pm
On the same theme managed to climb at least 6a at Kebs and Widdop yesterday AND raise my arm over shoulder height without excuciating pain today. Perhaps we should have our own recovering-injured-olics thread?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 26, 2009, 10:49:10 pm
Perhaps we should have our own recovering-injured-olics thread?

Well I managed a non slab type route with a couple of stiff pulls without much shoulder pain, so pleased too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on May 26, 2009, 11:12:41 pm
Yes, yes, fucking yes! I finally did it! I got on Brad Pitt tonight and fucking crushed it!

So fucking happy! Just need a new project now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on May 26, 2009, 11:31:42 pm
Yes, yes, fucking yes! I finally did it! I got on Brad Pitt tonight and fucking crushed it!

So fucking happy! Just need a new project now.

nice on drew  :great:


how about the ace for you new project
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on May 26, 2009, 11:53:18 pm
how about the ace for you new project

I'm going to have a look (at the Joker), but I can't crimp for toffee!

P.S. I think I know what you're referring to, but I'm not going to make any comment.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 26, 2009, 11:57:26 pm
Good work Drew :great:

Small fry compared to BP, but I finally got Banana Finger this evening, YYFY.  I was then shown the easier way of doing it instead of getting all bunched up with both feet smearing on the edge of the lip, much easier  :wall:

Oh and I ticked Great Buttress at Derwent Edge on Sunday which has been on my wishlist since I first went up there some seven or eight years ago  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on May 27, 2009, 12:23:21 am
Small fry compared to BP, but I finally got Banana Finger this evening, YYFY.

Projects are projects, whatever the grade  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 27, 2009, 12:45:28 am
Small fry compared to BP, but I finally got Banana Finger this evening, YYFY.

Projects are projects, whatever the grade  :great:

Aye true, I was inches away from getting BF reverse too which (after having checked) would have been another milestone for me (7a according to UKC's turdbook).  Will definitely go soon though (with a fraction more effort and a higher left foot  :P).

Main impediment to ticking BF has been that I only ever tried it when I was out bouldering on my own and could never commit to the moves, not the case tonight though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on May 27, 2009, 01:17:46 am
how about the ace for you new project

I'm going to have a look (at the Joker), but I can't crimp for toffee!

P.S. I think I know what you're referring to, but I'm not going to make any comment.

No need to be able to crimp, just need the ability to cycle to the crag under darkness at 4.30am and the rest will take care of its self...... ;) :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2009, 08:21:44 am
visiting euro spotter optional.

Nice sends guys. You done BF direct yet slackers?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 27, 2009, 09:07:14 am
Nice sends guys. You done BF direct yet slackers?

No, but was inches away from it last night it'll go next visit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on May 27, 2009, 09:52:05 am
Good effort slackers. I surprised myself when I did BF direct and reverse. Cool problems.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 27, 2009, 10:00:02 am
Nice sends guys. You done BF direct yet slackers?

No, but was inches away from it last night it'll go next visit.


Cool.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on May 27, 2009, 10:15:33 am
I found BF really hard and scary. Didn't help once meeting a bloke who told me he broke a leg falling off BF.

BF direct however is really nice and I haven't met a bloke who  broke his leg falling off it so it isn't half as scary.

BF reverse still to go though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on May 27, 2009, 10:25:51 am
BF is a bit scary - even now having done it loads of times it still unsettles me if i do it without a mat. terrible landing. no wonder it got E1. life in a radioactive dustbin is actually less worrying!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 27, 2009, 10:32:55 am
Yeah, I was quite worried when I finally went for it, but had three sets of big arms to spot me.  The easier method I was shown afterwards feels a lot more safer and secure though.

Think I've got myself confused below, I was trying BF Direct and not Reverse (although will be trying it in due course).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on May 27, 2009, 10:37:55 am
Didn't Edmundhillaryblackadderdrumandbass give Banana Finger HXS 'the hardest route in the world' status at the time?   I remember commenting to Galpinos mid-crux after doing BF reverse during last Summers WOL E12 brouhaha that Ed was lucky the internet wasn't invented at the time.

Good effort Slackers...

(BF Reverse comes in from the LHS arete into the gaston on BF Direct and then reverses BF - there's a video of Lagerstarfish on the crap video thread with a great soundtrack that has all the problems on)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on May 27, 2009, 10:42:37 am
especially if he'd rode his penny-farthing to the crag at 4am, spotted by a swarthy foreign type.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on May 27, 2009, 10:55:35 am
Didn't Edmundhillaryblackadderdrumandbass give Banana Finger HXS 'the hardest route in the world' status at the time?   I remember commenting to Galpinos mid-crux after doing BF reverse during last Summers WOL E12 brouhaha that Ed was lucky the internet wasn't invented at the time.
Ah. So that was you. Unless I happened to meet two blokes there and the same discussion occurred.

There were some young whipper snappers performing some amazing moves on BF and also some old blokes appeared with video cameras. One of you two did BF Rev and the other was so close on a couple of occasions.

If it was you thanks for the spotting and beta and it was nice to meet you and Galpinos.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on May 27, 2009, 10:58:04 am
Didn't Edmundhillaryblackadderdrumandbass give Banana Finger HXS 'the hardest route in the world' status at the time?   I remember commenting to Galpinos mid-crux after doing BF reverse during last Summers WOL E12 brouhaha that Ed was lucky the internet wasn't invented at the time.
Ah. So that was you. Unless I happened to meet two blokes there and the same discussion occurred.

There were some young whipper snappers performing some amazing moves on BF and also some old blokes appeared with video cameras. One of you two did BF Rev and the other was so close on a couple of occasions.

If it was you thanks for the spotting and beta and it was nice to meet you and Galpinos.

I remember that! Yep, FD did the reverse, I repeatedly fail to do it and those kids put us to shame!

I can now put a face to the avatar.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on May 27, 2009, 11:10:47 am
Ah. So that was you.

Were you the very tall chap?  Those kids were well impressive..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on May 27, 2009, 11:29:12 am
Ah. So that was you.

Were you the very tall chap?
Yeah that was me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on May 28, 2009, 06:23:52 pm
YYFY!  Finally managed the Fieldside Traverse at Almscliff  (a south-facing sloper problem being the obvious project for a warm, sunny day!).  I suspect the only thing that got me up the finish arete was fear of falling in that bloody swamp again!   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 28, 2009, 08:53:08 pm
YYFY!  Finally managed the Fieldside Traverse at Almscliff  (a south-facing sloper problem being the obvious project for a warm, sunny day!).  I suspect the only thing that got me up the finish arete was fear of falling in that bloody swamp again!   

Good effort   :beer1:  that traverse is a beast of a thing.. I've only managed to scrabble at chunks of it..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on May 28, 2009, 10:04:52 pm
YYFY!  Finally managed the Fieldside Traverse at Almscliff!   

Effort Moose, another one laid to rest.
I was up there tonight but don't think I saw you?
What's next on the list?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on May 29, 2009, 09:42:44 am
I was up there tonight but don't think I saw you?
What's next on the list?

I was there ~11am-3pm, working Fieldside for the last hour or two (having spent the morning doing the sds to that reverse-low-crucifix-traverse-into-arete-without-break eliminate).  A bit daft really given the heat but I tend to climb mornings and afternoon so that my mum cooks my tea  ::)

As for what's next at the 'Cliff, probably Underhand Extension.  The Keel if I develop a bit of left arm lockoff strength, Streaky's maybe if I can figure out a sequence.  Is Jess's Roof anygood?  I had a look once and first impressions were hard, nasty holds, dangerous, smells of wee; but maybe I misjudged it (and it should stay out the sun). 

Tomtom - not the time of year for it really, and being crap I'm not one to be giving advice.  But, I attacked Fieldside by having on previous visits got the finishing arete wired, then linked to the midway jug (it's starting to dry under there now).  Yesterday was the first day that I'd managed to do the crux (a drop-down match to the low sloper), but as I had the rest wired I was ready to take advantage of it (although I did fall off at the pocket on the arete a couple of times).  Supposedly at the crux it's easier to miss out the sloper (using low undercuts or pressing between sidepulls) but I couldn't find a sequence.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oli on May 29, 2009, 10:53:59 pm
A routes related YYFY, managed to flash my first 7a+ today, which was great.
An ideal way to relax after an afternoon exam, also managed it with a still slightly fucked finger, so things are looking up!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: yorkshirewarcry on May 30, 2009, 09:39:03 pm
A routes related YYFY, managed to flash my first 7a+ today, which was great.
An ideal way to relax after an afternoon exam, also managed it with a still slightly fucked finger, so things are looking up!

Bon effort beast! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2009, 09:26:48 am
Finally had some decent weather on Skye - hiked up to Coire Laggan on Saturday (fucking scree) and did Arrow Route and Integrity, then did the walk again on Sunday and did Cioch West and Cioch Nose, to finally stand on top the Cioch itself, somehwere I have wanted to be since I first was Highlander many moons ago.

Were going to go on the seacliffs at Elgol yesterday, but too jaded and way too hot, so sacked it off and lay in the sun watched seals and took pics.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 02, 2009, 09:29:16 am
Nice, great crag Sron na Ciche. Drove across Skye on Saturday on the way back from the Hebrides, weather was stunning.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 02, 2009, 09:31:17 am
YYFY, finally got to climb at Y Grisau in the Rhinnogs, after wanting to for a few years and *really* wanting to since walking up last autumn but getting seeped off. <3 Mid Wales.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2009, 09:34:29 am
Drove across Skye on Saturday on the way back from the Hebrides, weather was stunning.

Did you take board? There was apparently some nice swells last week.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 02, 2009, 09:41:58 am
No we were in the 'campercar' 306. Taking the board is ok when we can take it out on arrival but it would have been a pain. Checked out a good few beaches though, good swells all week and only saw one surfer, keen to get back!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2009, 09:45:41 am
Nice one. had my best day's surfing ever on Sollas beach on N Uist.

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid=109424233874068117488.00045b2a5788a44dd2b3c (http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid=109424233874068117488.00045b2a5788a44dd2b3c)

Feel free to add any notes!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 02, 2009, 12:46:18 pm
Glad to see this is still going!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2009, 12:58:09 pm
But not many people have added anything, in spite of hollow promises and initial enthusiasm.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on June 05, 2009, 02:39:29 pm

YYFY YYFY YYFY!!!

Just had an awesome morning at Dumby, sent Pongo Sitter my first font 8a then got the first ascent of my project!
 
:P

YYFY!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2009, 02:52:59 pm
First pre-work surf of the summer. was a bit messy, but better than buggerall.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 05, 2009, 03:23:00 pm

YYFY YYFY YYFY!!!

Just had an awesome morning at Dumby, sent Pongo Sitter my first font 8a then got the first ascent of my project!

Well done, good effort.  How hard do you think it is now you've done it?
I take it you can't use the evil 7b+ Pongo sitter jam :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on June 05, 2009, 03:28:05 pm
I can do Pongo with the jam but it doesn't feel right, so glad to have sent it properly!

I think the dyno is 8a, it's took me so long to do it and I'm usually pretty good at dispatching dyno's, if someone repeats it and thinks otherwise then fair enough but i personally think it's 8a, it's fookin nails!


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 05, 2009, 03:28:34 pm
Good one willy, got to be pleased with an 8a tick  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on June 05, 2009, 03:35:21 pm
Good one willy, got to be pleased with an 8a tick  :thumbsup:

Cheers!

It's been a long time coming!

I think this calls for some  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 05, 2009, 03:38:12 pm
I can do Pongo with the jam but it doesn't feel right

Yeah, I know what you mean.  In more than one sense- ouch!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 05, 2009, 05:36:37 pm
Shirley grading a dyno is going to extremely different, I can't think of a more morpho type of problem?

Good effort btw.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 06, 2009, 09:41:52 pm
ahhh today made me happy!!!
i came back from elba with the skin of a baby, and it's damn frustrating to have to quit due to skin while you still feel powerful. then, my left ring finger started hurting lately, and i started feeling like 100 kilos overweight (i gained two kilos by the way dunno how, dunno if lean or fat, but i think the latter, the mirror never lies), so i've been a bit down.
but today i went bouldering and did good, and at the end of the day there were two guys sport climbing, and they were smashed, so i offered to tie in and get the draws from the route. last time i had been on the route was april 3rd 2003, the day i sent it, and i nearly retroflashed, only one rest dammit!!!
i'm well psyched, it's french 8a.
i'm back motherfucker (thankyou jerry).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mini on June 06, 2009, 10:33:07 pm
Sweet tale Nibile, very sweet indeed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 08, 2009, 03:34:50 pm
I climbed the groove, all 80-something moves of it. HALAM
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 08, 2009, 03:41:20 pm
Well done Stu  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on June 08, 2009, 03:53:14 pm
I climbed the groove, all 80-something moves of it. HALAM

 :) Best sport route in Britain?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stu Littlefair on June 08, 2009, 04:03:11 pm

Could well be! Wierd how the last two sport routes I've done in the UK (The Groove & Predator) are probably the best two sport routes I've done in the UK. Makes me wonder what I was doing with my time before now....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 08, 2009, 04:18:03 pm
i think i may have done 80 moves in my last week of training and climbing...
well done stu!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 08, 2009, 04:27:59 pm

Could well be! Wierd how the last two sport routes I've done in the UK (The Groove & Predator) are probably the best two sport routes I've done in the UK. Makes me wonder what I was doing with my time before now....
Climbing on Peak limestone?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 08, 2009, 04:31:44 pm
This coming from Nik at Work The Tor.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 08, 2009, 04:41:29 pm
Rumbled.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 08, 2009, 05:05:17 pm
I climbed the groove, all 80-something moves of it. HALAM

Even after being woken from your power nap  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: priscilla wimbush on June 08, 2009, 09:25:07 pm
I climbed the groove, all 80-something moves of it. HALAM

Superb - Halam indeed, I hope you did a Lebang Boomani Dance to celebrate Stu?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on June 08, 2009, 10:14:04 pm

YYFY!

Did Hulk at Crag X tonight!
 
;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 09, 2009, 05:23:00 pm
Are you on a rampage or something? Good effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on June 10, 2009, 09:45:39 am
Quick YYFY - Did the nose @ Burbage yeterday afternoon... Bit of a stolen grit afternoon, cool breeze not too slippy.. Felt piss :great:
: D

Still got scared at the top tho :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 10, 2009, 08:59:07 pm
the nose never feels piss to me, good effort
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on June 11, 2009, 12:06:44 am
I climbed the groove, all 80-something moves of it. HALAM

Bloody hell, nice one stu. Long routes though .... whatever next ... trad climbing? road cycling? It's a slippery slope.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on June 11, 2009, 08:52:01 am
Too right. I predict he'll be a full bearded caver with a keen eye for topiary by the end of the year
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on June 12, 2009, 12:14:39 am
On another topic: Tomorrow is my last day at old work. So happy to be leaving the place that has provided me with so much er, learning over the last year.
YYFY. Heres to some time off, a new country and then a new job. NOT BAD AT ALL.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i.munro on June 16, 2009, 04:03:08 pm
I finally got a 7A in the forest!   :bounce:  well 7A+ according to bleau.info  ;D
A bit punter-y I know but in my defence I decided to make a bid for one as a 50th birthday present.
Ok I'm 18 months late but still!

Thanks to those who've helped out via t'interweb especially Serpico & Neil
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 16, 2009, 04:15:14 pm
Good effort! Which one?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i.munro on June 16, 2009, 04:21:35 pm
Thanks Jas

http://bleau.info/ussy/708.html (http://bleau.info/ussy/708.html) although not by the method shown (eeek! hope I wasn't cheating)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 16, 2009, 04:28:40 pm
I don't know it so can't help there I'm afraid. It doesn't say anything about rules though does it.

I expect Neil will know. Nice one anyway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on June 16, 2009, 07:12:14 pm
Thanks Jas

http://bleau.info/ussy/708.html (http://bleau.info/ussy/708.html) although not by the method shown (eeek! hope I wasn't cheating)

why what did you do, if you did it correctly, personally i thought it was hard


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i.munro on June 16, 2009, 07:40:30 pm



why what did you do, if you did it correctly, personally i thought it was hard



Compared to the guy on bleau.info my R hand was slightly further R on a sharp undercut & where he hooks with the R heel I stepped high with my right foot on the arete then hooked the left heel just under my left hand. This allowed me to get the top with my left in the same place as him.
(now I look again to write this, he's in this position in the last pic so I reckon I just missed out some pointless heelduggery)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on June 16, 2009, 08:20:44 pm
i seem to rember seeing in the guide,. you sit start right and finish left up of the prow, were he finishes but you have to stay low, If you stayed low then thats fine in the bag award yourself wad, Everyone will do the feet different

bon effort thats all i say
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rainbow on June 17, 2009, 01:17:24 am
After trying Caseg Groove twice before, spread over the last four years fianally nailed it over last fri. Took so many go's to work out where to put my feet to do the move up from jugs. More YYFY on Kingdom of Rain & Moose's Toothpaste.  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SamT on June 19, 2009, 04:10:35 pm

slightly off topic - but got an outloud YYFY,
Lost my wedding ring at the bowderstone today, just messing about on the V4 crack whilst at the and slipped it into my pocket.
Realised I didn't have it half way back to Keswick. spent half an hour looking around on the floor below the crack assuming it had trickled out whilst flailing about on high footholds
Couldn't find it
Tried the car park where we first parked (the main p&d one by the quarry) and just as I was about to give up when YYFY, there it was squashed into the gravel.

Thanks to the two lads who helped me look about up at the stone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bubba on June 19, 2009, 05:12:38 pm

Lucky one Sam :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 19, 2009, 06:21:02 pm
i can't remember correctly because i was completely drunk, but many years ago while in venice for the carnival i managed, with two friends of mine, to drop a man's wedding ring into one channel.
i really don't remember how, though, something like the man asked us to help him put the ring back into his finger, because he had taken it off, and was drunk also and couldn't do it by himself.
oh well, a great night though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 19, 2009, 06:54:23 pm
I lost my wedding ring between stanage and home, never replaced it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 19, 2009, 07:02:15 pm
I'd be missing vital organs if I lost mine.  I clip it onto the snapgate on one of these tiny torches that lives on my car keys:

(https://www.tool-net.co.uk/data/tools/torngrt505.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: underground on June 19, 2009, 10:22:44 pm
Good one Sam!

On a similar topic, I tore the rubber earbud off my JBL Reference earphones and lost it on the bus t'other week. I got them quite cheap on eBay and looking to buy a replacement was goinna cost more than I piad for the bleeders, so I modded a pair of foam earplugs instead, which were alright but a right pain in the bollocks having to roll them up on the bus and them stayin in whenever I took the 'phones out.

And Lo! About ten days later I put my boot on before going out in the morning and had to remove it due to a lump under my toe - only the bleedin' earbud I'd lost.

Praise be, He moves in mysterious ways  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 20, 2009, 11:44:45 pm
Tomorrow is day seven of no smoking for me.

Also cut alcohol consumption by about 75%. Throw in 8 miles of biking every day for good measure and things are looking up.

Nice   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 20, 2009, 11:49:20 pm
Nice one.  When I quit the evil weed I started drinking more to compensate, and the weight went up by 2 stones.  I still haven't lost it  :alky:

Keep up the good work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 20, 2009, 11:59:54 pm
I have strategically waited to give up, I knew as soon as I got the new push bike I'd have something to focus on. So far so good. I am having a few beers tonight though, I'm off tomorrow so I can justify it. Current tipple is "Biere Speciale" from Tesco. £2.79 for 8 dumpy bottles. Perfect!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Barratt on June 21, 2009, 10:12:11 am
First yyfy posting.

Got 2 7a+'s and my first 7b In one session the other day!

Best session ever...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 26, 2009, 09:33:21 pm
Not a very exciting one, I'm afraid, but managed my first 7 since the finger died.  Woo hoo.

http://vimeo.com/5339992 (http://vimeo.com/5339992)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on June 26, 2009, 10:59:32 pm
good effort, its always nice to come back after injury
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 26, 2009, 11:05:39 pm
Cheers, I've been going stir crazy, getting fatter, weaker and more pissed off.  Just nice to actually nail something  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on June 27, 2009, 10:09:48 am
Let us in on the secret there G - what is the trick?
Good effort btw - as Neil says, it's good to see progress again after an injury.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 27, 2009, 10:10:36 am
what is the trick?

Don't let go of the jug.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 27, 2009, 06:09:01 pm
Haha! I thought the topout on loose pine needles, twigs and dirt was the 'trick'y bit  :lol:

I think it is the fairly obvious use of a right hand thumb sprag to get set up for the slap that is the trick maybe but who knows  :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 03, 2009, 08:21:38 pm
super YYFY: today a girl in the class guessed my age was 26!!!
hopefully some climbing related yyfy tomoro.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 04, 2009, 11:37:58 am
YYFY! On tuesday I finally managed to tick the Pinky Traverse at Brimham (conditions... I spit on your conditions!). 

On friday I finally sussed the crux of the Long Haul and got from the start to beyond the slot.  It's enough for the yorkshiregrit tick but I know in my heart that I need to take it up the finishing arete (I fell hitting the last sloper).  Almost glad in a way as it leaves me a permanently shady project.

And, last but not least: I'VE GOT A JOB (subject to my referees doing right by me anyway).  Nine months of unemployment will soon come to an end.  I feel the urgent need to lay waste to my 2009 ticklist (mainly Underhand Extension and The Keel) - before my physique falls victim to the life of a salaryman.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 04, 2009, 06:43:39 pm
 :thumbsup: nice one Moose. I hope the film reviews aren't going to stop
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 04, 2009, 10:35:58 pm
:thumbsup: nice one Moose. I hope the film reviews aren't going to stop

 :agree: With both.

Well done mate but please keep up the good work. What's the job? Replacing the blatantly useless James King on Radio 1?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on July 07, 2009, 01:49:54 pm
Am I allowed a chuffing YYFY?

I'm going to do it anyway...

Not groundbreaking in the grand scheme of things but a significant personal landmark:

The missus and I redpointed our first 7a on a recent trip to Spain.

YYFY!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 07, 2009, 02:14:10 pm
Good work BB, well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on July 11, 2009, 12:14:19 pm
YYFY!! I went to the Langdale Boulders and did almost every problem which is 7a and below first go, then went to catherdral quarry and cruised Darklands! Was well chuffed and was having a post Darklands buzz for the rest of the day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on July 11, 2009, 12:22:19 pm
None climbing related but just found out I got a 1st for my 2nd year at uni, so I will be able to do the MEng course!! :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on July 11, 2009, 12:57:04 pm
Nice one!   :pissed:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 12, 2009, 08:27:18 am
None climbing related but just found out I got a 1st for my 2nd year at uni, so I will be able to do the MEng course!! :dance1:

Swot :0

Triple YYFY there, watch out for karma.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 12, 2009, 05:34:44 pm
just got back from lagoni area, where i devastated an old time nemesis (yes, the one i blogged about). i found out i was using the dumbest sequence ever imagined by a human being. uberwad matteo bresciani told me how to do it and i did it second fucking go.
very very pleased, another "done" that goes into the ticklist.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Houdini on July 12, 2009, 05:52:36 pm
super YYFY: today a girl in the class guessed my age was 26!!!

Pfft!

I got ID'd for booze earlier this Summer in a supermarket.  I'm 37 in 8 weeks  8)


I lost my wedding ring

(http://foreverloyal.files.wordpress.com/2008/01/gollum.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on July 12, 2009, 06:58:01 pm
I got ID'd for booze earlier this Summer in a supermarket.  I'm 37 in 8 weeks  8)







yes but you look about 12  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 14, 2009, 05:52:17 pm
Probably my last YYFY before joining the ranks of the gainfully employed.  Just back from Brimham where by some miracle I managed to do Ian's Traverse (the lip shuffle into Happy Days).

Many thanks to UTG for the kind provision of video beta.  Yet again it was very helpful: you expect me to pull on that hold with my left hand!?  Truly, never in the field of human endeavor has so bad a hold, been pulled-on so hard, by a man with so little talent!


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 15, 2009, 12:10:06 am
Congratulations, the moose-crush-fest continues!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 15, 2009, 08:44:43 pm
Celebrated my finger being well on with mending with an ascent of caviar, yyfy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on July 15, 2009, 08:48:27 pm
It must have been bad if you couldn't open the can.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on July 15, 2009, 09:30:39 pm
Bagged the hardest thing i ve ever done on friday,new link up on pill box,certainly a YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2009, 08:17:05 am
You can't beat a good bagging.

Nice one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benpritch on July 17, 2009, 12:28:28 pm
got my hands on a brand spanking new pair of V10s. YYFY!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on July 17, 2009, 03:32:38 pm
YYFY!

Monday night, about half an hour of pain eventually convinced my body it was getting up a sloper problem i'd been failing on for a few weeks...

It was no.19 purple/pink spotty at the works - wanted to go hurt myself on conan the librarian but it was raining! Was bouncing in the pub later... and have been aching since!

Bring on Font!!
 :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 17, 2009, 03:55:10 pm
MY SIGNED COPY OF JERRY'S BOOK JUST ARRIVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on July 17, 2009, 05:29:16 pm
went to a talk by jerry on his book, was really good, better than i expected, sound bloke! Haven't read it yet, will hav to get hold of a copy soon!
 :goodidea:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 17, 2009, 06:30:20 pm
got my hands on a brand spanking new pair of V10s. YYFY!!!!

Any others in store Ben? Need to sort something out soon. This is getting scary. Will have to give up climbing if I don't find a pair.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Houdini on July 17, 2009, 09:06:23 pm
I've a fresh pair of UK 6's in the cupboard, Mono.  50 quid postage included.  Ha!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 19, 2009, 08:24:01 pm
A final YYFY before quitting the life of the gainfully unemployed to start my new job, and I think I saved the best till last: today I bagged The Keel.

YYFY!!! Well chuffed, especially given that it was alternately pissing-down / sunny all day.  The top-out was frankly harrowing as all the holds above the pocket were still soaking from the previous downpour; a lifetime of agnosticism resolved by an urgent entreaty to the supreme being* to get my foot in the pocket!
 
All in all a good way to end my months as a "Government Sponsored Professional Climber".  I suspect it's all downhill from here.


* Andy Swann?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 19, 2009, 10:02:43 pm
A final YYFY before quitting the life of the gainfully unemployed to start my new job, and I think I saved the best till last: today I bagged The Keel.


Good effort Moose.. I was heading to the cliff, got as far as Leeds airport, saw the raindrops and wet road and turned back.. Grr...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on July 19, 2009, 10:07:33 pm

Good effort Moose.. I was heading to the cliff, got as far as Leeds airport, saw the raindrops and wet road and I'm now drinking in Malaga drinking 'dulce'. Hola.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 20, 2009, 09:03:49 am
Woop woop, YYFY!  :thumbsup:

Not been doing a lot of bouldering this year, mainly on the trad-chuffing, but finally managed to nail my most drawn-out project to date...and it felt pretty easy. Weird!

I wasn't even planning on climbing, it had been showery in Glasgow all morning and I was meant to be going sailing for the weekend, but I got a text saying "up for Dumby"?

Hell Yeah!

Went down about 3 on my own as no one else seems to finish work till about 5:30, what's that all about  ;) Had a wee play on a few things and then thought I'd have a few goes on Mestizo Traverse 7B (not hard in the grand scheme, but it would only be my 3rd one at that grade).

After working out a bit of beta the short one had shown me months ago, the crux seemed a little easier and I thought it was maybe going to be the day! I was a little worried about the top-out, considering my lack of spotters and only having my pad. The thin metolius one that gets affectionately called "the foot wipe" as it's pretty useless for falling on.

Oh well.

So, go number 7 and I hit the arete perfectly, then pulled in for the left crimp, hit the good edge on the arete, feet on, went for the undercling and missed it by a good 10"...not this time  >:(

Next go, same as before, this time I hit the undercling, then the jug. Just the top-out to go now. Don't think about the fall, just chalk and go. Wobbled to the top and looked around, just in case anyone had wandered round the corner to witnesss my glory. Nope. Alll on my own. Just my dog and finnian mcgill watching....oh no, my name's not Si O'conner..  :spank:

Anyway. Nice to get a proj nailed. I can conclude that 7 weeks of trad climbing and no bouldering is good training for bouldering :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drewski Rootbitch on July 20, 2009, 09:24:55 am
YYFY!
I'm off the diet! After months of (what felt like) near starvation, I willing jumped off the wagon last night for a burger, chips and beer....not just anyburgerandchips, this was fantastic, chunky chips (with salt), homemade burger and relish, with no added salad or guilt....shamoh!
I'm off the wagon now as mission has been accomplished and there is no need for more emaciation.
Sorry it's chuffing and it's indoors, but after a good few months of hard training, yesterday I won the British routing champs at Ratho.
Won the 1st qually, 2nd qually and the final. Everything felt good and in control, no injuries, training peaked at about the right time. All just came together.
Very happy and very proud this morning, as the rest of the guys competing were proper contenders and all climbed really well, especially the young guns (a great effort from Ross, James and Ed).
I'm also very lucky to have a wonderful girlfriend who put up with my occasional grizzly-ness from too much training/not enough eating/not enough social time....
Now bring on the chocolate!
Drew

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on July 20, 2009, 09:50:22 am
YYFY!
I'm off the diet!

Fantastic! I'll see you at the crag again now I hope...and I'll bake you a cake.

...and well done at Ratho too...can I watch the video anywhere?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drewski Rootbitch on July 20, 2009, 10:22:58 am
I'm all over the video editing at the minute, I don't think I'll be able to edit out the excited jumping up and down effect though. The videographer, AKA mrs Rootbitch, was proper psyched.
It should be up and running this afternoon mate. I'll stick a link on or something.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fraser33 on July 20, 2009, 10:33:26 am
Congrats on yesterday's result  :bow: - wish I'd heard about the comp sooner, I'd have liked to make it through to Ratho, rather than wandering round a "Heavy Horse Show" in chilly showers in East Kilbride.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 20, 2009, 10:42:20 am
 :o  Good going Drew! Fantastic effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on July 20, 2009, 04:09:09 pm
finally a YYFY moment...

after more than two years of procrastonating I finally got round to doing stinging nettle (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11922.0.html).   Tried it once all that time ago and got shut down, after that I let fear of being spanked deter me whilst making rubbish excuses about not knowing exactly where it started etc... well no worries did both starts today and tidied the whole thing up from warm up to pack up in just over the hour, no real need to go back to stone farm again now!

so not that hard on the grand scale but 2 7a+'s in a day, first seventh grade problems done outdoors since Jr T was born (he was six months on Saturday, how time scoots on) and since I broke my favourite swearing finger; so yes yes fucking yes indeed

interestingly it also solved the problem with my glassy tips (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=12115.0;topicseen)  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 20, 2009, 04:39:43 pm
Result!  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 20, 2009, 07:01:16 pm
First 7c+ today. Whoop a dee doo....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 20, 2009, 10:44:18 pm
Thought you'd have bouldered V10 ages ago Johnny Footwork  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 21, 2009, 01:07:42 pm
super YYFY!!!!!!!!!!
today my girlfriend discussed her final thesis, and is now a doctor with a final 106/110 mark!!!
it's a beginning of a new era. now i want little work and big numbers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 21, 2009, 02:15:27 pm
YYFY. First pain free bouldering sesion down t' wall since January. Although it feels like red heat radiating from raw tips.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 21, 2009, 03:41:37 pm
YYFY. First pain free bouldering sesion down t' wall since January. Although it feels like red heat radiating from raw tips.

So, what you're saying is you've got so weak that you can't even pull hard enough to hurt youself anymore. You should hold your head in shame. :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 21, 2009, 03:44:06 pm
Although it feels like raw heat radiating from red tips.

You signed up to their site then, Chris?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on July 21, 2009, 10:59:09 pm
Quote from: King Nibs
super YYFY!!!!!!!!!!
today my girlfriend discussed her final thesis, and is now a doctor with a final 106/110 mark!!!
it's a beginning of a new era. now i want little work and big numbers.

That's brilliant news Lor! Time to crush!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2009, 10:29:34 am
Although it feels like raw heat radiating from red tips.

You signed up to their site then, Chris?

Yes, even got a t-shit (and no that's not a typo)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on July 27, 2009, 09:38:13 pm
Just shaved 1min20sec off my Froggatt Hill PB. 18:05 16:45  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on July 27, 2009, 10:18:11 pm
That is a proper "Sweeney Todd" of a shave.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 30, 2009, 06:07:57 pm
Since YYFY isn't strictly for bouldering achievements it seems, I'm proud to say that today at my grandmother's funeral I spoke to my uncle and found out that she was DJ'ing for a long time at various places back in the day. From her death certificate:

"Occupation: Disc Jokey"

Yes yes fucking yes. Better than an 8c anyday. I have big shoes to fill.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on July 30, 2009, 07:22:56 pm
Since YYFY isn't strictly for bouldering achievements it seems, I'm proud to say that today at my grandmother's funeral I spoke to my uncle and found out that she was DJ'ing for a long time at various places back in the day. From her death certificate:

"Occupation: Disc Jokey"

Yes yes fucking yes. Better than an 8c anyday. I have big shoes to fill.

You're having a laufff
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 31, 2009, 10:41:19 am
Got finger out and had a proper go at a DWS traverse I have contemplated the possibility of for a few years. Got wetsuit on and went for a swim to check it out about a month ago and gave it a go, but failed due to wetsuit leaking and soaking rockboots.

Gave it another go last night, in fading light at high tide (9:30 pm) and made it, to a big ledge (out of sight) probable FA. The second section is deep in the cave, and I made it largely by feel and luck and a waterproof torch to another ledge. Failed on the third section though, at it was just about dark and I went too high and missed footholds. Need to go back and finish it! Rock is largely perfect, with some surprising hidden holds and while greasy, nowhere near as bad as I expected. Amazingly atmospheric and spooky, especially in fading light. Sussed out a possible light through the opposite wall too.

(http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab54/rowiebee/chris%20pics/chris_2.jpg?t=1249032702)


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 31, 2009, 01:06:06 pm
Effort Chris - looks as exciting as you described on Tuesday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 31, 2009, 01:08:15 pm
That does indeed look "exciting"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Spanish John on July 31, 2009, 01:12:46 pm
you must have frantic to get to that point before the timer went off on your camera! very atmospheric niche
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 31, 2009, 02:13:22 pm
Had a bud with me - wouldn't do it on my tod. He took a lower line and lost it at the vertical crack and took the plunge, then took over torch holding duties.

and I meant to say "sussed out a possible light line through the opposite wall too"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Aussiegav on July 31, 2009, 02:58:56 pm
Hey SA Chris,
how about getting one of the old 80's style smoothy steamers and tackle some of the heinous full body offwidths...

could be on to somethng with giggling crack in Yorkshire there........
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 31, 2009, 03:11:23 pm
Gigglin' Crack is a lot closer to you than me! Full body stealth suit might be better.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on August 03, 2009, 03:58:45 pm
a Small yippee (Yip?) as I got Teyrn Roof crack done last night. Another one ticked off the List. (see Blog) Still got to go back to Georges crack tho'

hose
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 03, 2009, 06:53:47 pm
Nice one Hosemeister. I seem to remember TRC being a great laugh, rotating around on fist-jams and stuff.

I would be quite surprised if there's only one V grade between it and George's crack, though  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chriss on August 04, 2009, 01:19:27 pm
A Very late YYFY, but been back a month from a two month Euro trip & got me three 7b's first of the grade! Not a big number for many, but good enough for me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on August 06, 2009, 11:20:03 pm
1.The missus has got t'net sorted in our new house.
2. Went to Ramshaw for a boulder/wander after work.
3. Saw amazing sunset after stumbling up a cleft in the crag. Actually almost gasped...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on August 06, 2009, 11:59:17 pm
Good to hear it Sam.

The sunset was awesome from the High Peak tonight though. Me and the neighbour had been routing at Smalldale and drove back via Dove Holes through Chapel. Turning the top we stopped the car and soaked in a sky on fire.. amazing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on August 12, 2009, 11:31:24 pm
YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My meta-analysis has been accepted for an oral presentation at the american heart association! GET THE FUCK IN!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on August 13, 2009, 07:26:54 am
Good effort
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 13, 2009, 09:37:22 am
YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My meta-analysis has been accepted for an oral presentation at the american heart association! GET THE FUCK IN!

Nice. Where?

Are you now known as Captain Saltbeefheart?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on August 13, 2009, 09:39:33 am
Nice one beef.  Not sure what this has got to do with bottoms though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on August 13, 2009, 05:21:21 pm
YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My meta-analysis has been accepted for an oral presentation at the american heart association! GET THE FUCK IN!

Nice. Where?

Are you now known as Captain Saltbeefheart?

Orlando.

Dylog you know its only your botty!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hairich on August 14, 2009, 09:34:56 am
disney here we come
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 14, 2009, 10:16:52 am

Orlando.


Bloom :)

On the florida keys, theres a place called kokomo....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 14, 2009, 12:01:26 pm
Just received student financial notification and pleased to see it has gone up by almost 2,000. Subject to getting the John Lennon scholarship again, I'm going to be in a much rosier financial position this year. Fucking made my year this has! Can finally treat myself to another stay in Italy and visit you special hommes in Innsbruck.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on August 15, 2009, 07:43:09 pm
YYFY!!!! I bagged the Underhand Extension today!  Well chuffed.... the culmination of around 3 years of hiding behind the Virgin and moodily drinking coffee: rarely has so much time been dedicated to the gain of so little height! 

Totally unexpected too, especially given the circumstances.  I went early to Almscliff, but too windy for comfort, so fled to Caley, I'd just got warmed up when it started raining, so returned to Almscliff to find that it was now both windy and damp!  Luckily the sun did its thing and eventually rewarded me for my boneheaded perserverence.   If I was more sensible, and if it wasn't for the fact that I've been dreaming the whole working-week of getting my mitts on grit, I would've just buggered off to the wall.... a lucky escape.  Although perhaps luck was nothing to do with it: maybe it was the eerie powers of the UKB t-shirt (mine was receiving only its second airing - perhaps I should save it for "project days"... lest I wear out the magic).         
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on August 15, 2009, 08:27:00 pm
Fuck Moose, you're a crushing machine of late. Is this because of your recent foray into gainful employment? Maybe you should get a second job...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on August 17, 2009, 12:39:28 pm
I just got back from the peaks after climbing on Grit for the first time. Ive got no skin and i hurt all over but I cant wait to get back there and tick something decent.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 18, 2009, 04:33:30 pm
"Sorry Mr Mills, the university calculated one of your bursary levels wrong. It's not 525 pounds you'll receive, it's 1500"

It seems turning 25 has rather more perks than last year's whimsical financial state of affairs!My year keeps on getting better.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 18, 2009, 04:50:24 pm
Get a fucking job you sponging student cunt.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 18, 2009, 04:58:55 pm
It really does read as that doesn't it. But Sharpe I promise you, my commitment to getting a vocation knows no bounds and I will continue to break my back with work until I finish.  Then I will ask Sloper for a bottle of something nice to  offer  in return for you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 18, 2009, 05:00:49 pm
 :-*
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 18, 2009, 05:02:01 pm
 :shag:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chappers on August 21, 2009, 11:32:01 am
I just got back from the peak after climbing on Grit for the first time. Ive got no skin and i hurt all over but I cant wait to get back there and tick something decent.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 21, 2009, 11:35:49 am
I just got back from the peak after climbing on Grit for the first time. Ive got no skin and i hurt all over but I cant wait to get back there and tick something decent.


What do you think this is UKC?  Are you Al Evans in disguise?  Give Seb a break, he had his first day out on t'grit and is clearly  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 21, 2009, 11:49:40 am
I know it's seen as being a bit Cocktalk but people writing "Peaks" does irritate me slightly.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 21, 2009, 11:59:52 am
Its perhaps worth explaining the aetiology (second paragraph) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_district#Early_history) then.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on August 21, 2009, 12:35:14 pm
Well i stand corrected. Still cant wait to get on the grit again. Any one know any classic font 6a problems for me to work at. ideally at Cubar or Stanage?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 21, 2009, 02:36:49 pm
Any one know any classic font 6a problems for me to work at. ideally at Cubar or Stanage?

There's a few to go at!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on August 21, 2009, 07:42:50 pm
But Strawberries is stil only 4+
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on August 21, 2009, 07:44:32 pm
But Strawberries is stil only 4+


:lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on August 21, 2009, 10:02:41 pm
YYFY, did Sean's Problem, campus start of course, at the unmentionable today followed by Lift Off. Does Cherokee Lane start just right of the pinch on a couple of good edges, upto a weird gaston thing with left, then right hand  upto to a good edge with a little spike on the left of it, go again with right to good flakey hold and then left to JR finishing flake and finish as per JR??

 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: n_man on August 24, 2009, 11:23:29 am
I hope so because when I did CL like that I considered the problem ticked and never repeated it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on August 26, 2009, 12:33:29 pm
resigned from my job, asked to vacate the building and now on a months garden leave before starting new job.....anyone about?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2009, 12:40:04 pm
Nice one. You still planning a trip up this way? Weather has been terrible.

We will be in Yorkshire(s) / Derbyshire / Snowdonia from 4th to 13th Sept, exact location on what date depends on weather. Could meet up for a boulder or summat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on August 26, 2009, 12:50:53 pm
prob not coming up at this stage, the weather is awful all over. Mighty nip across to wales for this weekend, keep me posted what ur up to.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on August 26, 2009, 02:43:46 pm
I'll give you a bell when I'm next over fatboy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on August 26, 2009, 08:56:44 pm
resigned from my job, asked to vacate the building and now on a months garden leave before starting new job.....anyone about?

Going to be in Cornwall from the 1st till the 8th (maybe the 10th) if you fancy some low grade punter action on the granite.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on August 26, 2009, 09:57:05 pm
I knew when I saw this that you'd either got your van fixed or ticked strawberries, my money was on the former.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on August 26, 2009, 10:08:04 pm
Fatboy, Chris - if you're heading t't' Cliff when you're down holla at me word, would be good to get out with some experienced heads.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on August 26, 2009, 10:26:44 pm
I knew when I saw this that you'd either got your van fixed or ticked strawberries, my money was on the former.


Strawberries will get sent soon at the proper grade and not some random figure that you conjure off the top of your head.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2009, 10:29:18 pm
Fatboy, Chris - if you're heading t't' Cliff when you're down holla at me word, would be good to get out with some experienced heads.

Sounds good. Been away too long. Any beta will be more verbal than physical though! PM me a mob no.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 01, 2009, 02:18:22 pm
Non-climbing YYFY.

Work have granted me 52 days study leave on full pay over the next year to do what is essentially writing a well researched proposal for a PhD and find appropriate funding. Not only that, but I'm giving evidence/opinions to the relevant All Party Parliamentary Group next month and so can claim to be a respected expert.

Sometimes it feels like I actually know what I'm doing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 01, 2009, 02:21:21 pm
Dunno what most of that means but if nothing else 52 days leave on full pay is worth a :thumbsup:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 01, 2009, 02:55:51 pm
Dunno what most of that means but if nothing else 52 days leave on full pay is worth a :thumbsup:

It means that I'm being paid for 52 days over the next year to think and write about stuff I do at work that I like to think and write about with the aim of thinking and writing about it more, with the extra bonus of explaining to a bunch of MPs what I think about what I do so that they can decide what they should think about what I do and how the state should respond.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 01, 2009, 02:58:04 pm
I thought you only worked about 52 days a year already?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 01, 2009, 03:00:00 pm
Show 'em your van Lagers, they'll be well impressed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 01, 2009, 03:04:06 pm
Show 'em your van Lagers, they'll be well impressed.

The parking situation at The House of Lords is a bit shit, so I might have to make do with photos. Mind you the LPG would cost a lot less than the train ticket...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2009, 03:04:30 pm
I'm being paid for 52 days over the next year to think and write about stuff I do at work

I assume you will be spending time in the Birbage Valley, where you go to "think" and get rid of "writer's block".

(I have often wondered if "writer's block" is just authorspeak for, "I can't be be fucked to do it right now, there are more interesting things going on".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 01, 2009, 03:08:53 pm
I thought you only worked about 52 days a year already?!

and yet I achieve 80% more than similar workers do in 240 days per year...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 01, 2009, 04:32:20 pm
(I have often wondered if "writer's block" is just authorspeak for, "I can't be be fucked to do it right now, there are more interesting things going on".

Sometimes its an excuse - but sometimes it just doesnt happen - For me when its like this I know that time would be better spent doing something else... (which - ahem - can mean I'm better off climbing!).
I've had a bad block for the last couple of months, which I broke on friday (like popping a cork...) by finishing a paper thats been sat around for 6 months.. - so a small YYFY in its own right..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 01, 2009, 04:54:18 pm
Show 'em your van fucking great big trout Lagers, they'll be well impressed.
:thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on September 02, 2009, 12:26:17 am
Fiend. Surely this is your time for your greatest YYFY moment ever?! You're free, able to roam untrodden areas of esoterica again! You can climb more chossy yes polished slimestone sandbags!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 02, 2009, 12:13:57 pm
Funnily enough this doesn't feel like my greatest YYFY moment ever  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 02, 2009, 02:03:32 pm
YYFY.. did Demon Wall Roof this morning  :thumbsup:

When I first went to Almscliff in 92 I remember looking and feeling the chalked crimps on the face and thinking 'how the fuck?', well its taken 6 months of fairly concentrated efforts, but now I know! Thanks to all (many of who I dont know) who've offered me advice/beta/encouragement over the past few months.. Think I'll have a few  :beer2: tonight  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 02, 2009, 02:07:40 pm
Good effort! A true classic! Get down the hunters for a few  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SteveM on September 02, 2009, 03:12:29 pm
YYFY.. did Demon Wall Roof this morning 
Congratulations and jubilations. If I remember correctly the unconcentrated efforts started a bit earlier than 6 months ago... more like when I was still living in Leeds!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stabbsy on September 02, 2009, 03:31:40 pm
YYFY.. did Demon Wall Roof this morning

Effort...felt like it could be good conditions when I left the house first thing this morning.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 02, 2009, 03:37:25 pm
YYFY.. did Demon Wall Roof this morning 
Congratulations and jubilations. If I remember correctly the unconcentrated efforts started a bit earlier than 6 months ago... more like when I was still living in Leeds!

Cheers Steve - yes, I think I first had a serious play about 18 months ago, and figured it might be possible but has taken me longer than I thought! I had the bottom part nailed in the spring, but couldnt do the last move. Over the summer got stronger and managed to get the last move - and with a technique change get it consistently - but then couldnt do the lower sequence  >:( So last 3 or 4 sessions have been just overlapping parts of it, nearly went last week - but like Stabbsy said today the conditions were good. Cold clean rock. Conditions were that good I went and had a hopeful play on Si's arete (what with my confidence being high and all that..) but dutifully got spat off  :) The cliff just keeps on giving...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 02, 2009, 04:16:52 pm
I can get to the high crimp but am very stretched out by that point. Then have real difficulty holding the swing. Haven't tried in a long time. Keen for more.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 02, 2009, 05:05:20 pm
If you're stretched out, how do you think short-arses do it? Someone ought to show you the beta, I'm sure you'd do it then!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on September 02, 2009, 06:31:07 pm
if your on the high crimp with one hand, take the undercut back with the other hand and there won't be any swing
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 02, 2009, 07:27:09 pm
Was going to say the same. Know the theory, but can't do it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 02, 2009, 08:08:20 pm
I didn't need to put a hand back down under, I could hold the swing when going for the crimp with the RF toe hook - then share on the big crimp and tensing like a bastard bring my RF into the hold in the roof, then pull and slap.... 6 months ago I could only do that move 3 times in a session then my stomach muscles gave up.. now no probs, so theres alot of core being used there...
The final pull and slap took me ages to get right (to start I just used my LH on the crimp) but I found using the toe hook to keep myself in really hard to master - maybe I'm too tall, at times it felt like all arms and legs everywhere under that roof!

What I love about the problem is that there are lots of subtle variations that mean most people do it in different ways, and aside from the last pull and slap its not especially powerful - more on body tension and technique...

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on September 02, 2009, 11:09:56 pm
maybe i'm too tall. thats like complaining your dicks too big.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on September 02, 2009, 11:11:16 pm
I really struggle to get my right foot in the obvious hold in the roof.  May be lankiness, may be lack of hip movements.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 03, 2009, 09:56:17 pm
Basically it's harder for the short, right??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on September 03, 2009, 10:18:11 pm
the toe hook method is nails for the short, I tried it for 13 years without success.
The heel cam method is slightly harder as it takes so long to get the heel set, otherwise much the same but not as pleasant.
 
But I guess roof climbing would be tricky for mutant tallies with long legs, imagine the core strength required to lift such levers.  My heart bleeds for them.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 03, 2009, 10:47:02 pm
What I was trying to say in an earlier post is that I think its an ace problem because it seems to be of equal difficulty to tall short and medium people - as there are several different ways of doing it..
anyway - I've now done it!
 :beer1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 03, 2009, 11:05:28 pm
I've only ever dropped it 4 or 5 times since i've done it, and i've done it hundreds of times! took me ten session to get it though. what a rare evening that was when i first ticked it! god i miss that place. can't wait to be back, i'm gonna crank the shit out of DWR left hand, natural traverse, top cat, sloping traverse, streaky's, the keel, etc. etc. etc.

anyway have a few  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on September 04, 2009, 07:14:59 am
, i'm gonna crank the shit out of DWR left hand, natural traverse, top cat, sloping traverse, streaky's, the keel, etc. etc. etc.

are you going to boulderise them too?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 04, 2009, 01:04:44 pm
Hells yeah DOOD! I'm gonna get strong strong on them until I'm all over them like cheese on a pizza-pie, then I'm gone knock it up a notch and send the shit out of them! YEAAAAH
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 04, 2009, 01:07:18 pm
Rad.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 04, 2009, 06:03:04 pm
Pas de Deux, LPT, YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on September 04, 2009, 06:38:32 pm
PdeD, LPT, YYFY!
(http://adairprogress.com/files/cheerleaders.jpg)
8) Effort. You've been waiting for the good conditions haven't you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 04, 2009, 06:46:35 pm
September is always my best crushing time down there. You spend all summer getting proj wired and getting muscle memory and then wait for it to cool down!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on September 04, 2009, 07:12:08 pm

Crushed Sabotage at Dumby tonight, first 8a+! YYFY!!!!!

My mate crushed it the go after too!!!
 
;D    :pissed:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on September 04, 2009, 07:22:53 pm
Good lad, hope the head isn't too banging tomorrow
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 04, 2009, 07:32:29 pm
Jeez Will, are you the next Malc?  :o

Congrats to the Doylomatic too!  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 07, 2009, 01:01:21 pm
Jeez Will, are you the next Malc?  :o

Oh yes  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on September 07, 2009, 05:15:19 pm
Did a brilliant first ascent at Beddgelert Forest on Saturday evening. Been carrying a chronic finger injury for over 12 months now so it felt so good to be back bouldering and to get such a sweet line, man was I happy when I mantelled out the top of that boulder!

(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Clear%20Spot%201%20280.jpg)

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=418 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=418)

I reckon my finger is still knacked, but the holds were so slopey it didn't matter!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on September 07, 2009, 05:42:26 pm
Effort Si, looks mint! And upon following the links on the NWB site to the other news items I realised that there's actually a pretty good looking circuit there, which is nice as I'm spending the weekend after next near Beddgelert! Psyched!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 07, 2009, 05:47:35 pm
Jeez Will, are you the next Malc?  :o

Oh yes  8)

Will could be the next Malc, if he knew how to train, and did some!


Anyway, YYFY!  :thumbsup:

I really surprised myself today by getting a Fr7c+ at Dumbuck! I've been doing practically no sport climbing recently, and not a lot of bouldering. My previous hardest route was Fr7b+, so I'm fully stoked!

Suddenly Fr8a seems like a more reasonable proposition.  Time for a celebratory :beer1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on September 07, 2009, 05:52:30 pm
RAINBOW FUKCING ROCKET AT LAST YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 07, 2009, 05:54:11 pm
Nice work Neil.

We're coming out to Font in November - do you have any tips on some training I can do to stop the dreaded "font-elbow"?

Sorry for the Hi-Jack. In fact, probs best to PM me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on September 07, 2009, 07:34:23 pm
push ups, and lots of them
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 07, 2009, 07:44:37 pm
push ups, and lots of them
Wrong thread (sorry) but that do push ups really help? (says he with a slight hint of almost niggly tennis elbow,...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on September 07, 2009, 09:32:22 pm
yes defo, I always do a load just before climbing ever since moving here, i have bever had the dreaded elbow since someone told me to do it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 09, 2009, 05:52:59 pm
YYFY! Just bagged myself a new job and can now wave goodbye to the shit hold I've been working in (hopefully new one will be better!).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2009, 05:59:23 pm
YYFY! Just bagged myself a new job and can now wave goodbye to the shit hold I've been working in (hopefully new one will be better!).
:beer1:
                 :beer1:
                                  :beer1:
                                                      :beer1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on September 09, 2009, 06:06:26 pm
YYFY! Just bagged myself a new job and can now wave goodbye to the shit hold I've been working in (hopefully new one will be better!).

you have been working in a big hold  :-\

na good luck man, there is nowt better in life than leaving a shit job
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on September 09, 2009, 09:52:06 pm
Shit Slackers, what is UKB going to to without its own personal IT support helpline if you're working hard in a new job and can't access / post on here??

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Clart on September 09, 2009, 10:07:10 pm
push ups, and lots of them
Wrong thread (sorry) but that do push ups really help? (says he with a slight hint of almost niggly tennis elbow,...)

I concur with press-up advice, has also worked for me. Push up to straight arms to give the forearms a good stretch.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 10, 2009, 08:28:30 am
Shit Slackers, what is UKB going to to without its own personal IT support helpline if you're working hard in a new job and can't access / post on here??

My thoughts exactly. Well done though mate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 10, 2009, 09:23:58 am
push ups, and lots of them
Wrong thread (sorry) but that do push ups really help? (says he with a slight hint of almost niggly tennis elbow,...)

I concur with press-up advice, has also worked for me. Push up to straight arms to give the forearms a good stretch.

I know this is still a bit off topic, but how fast do you do the press ups?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 10, 2009, 09:29:43 am
push ups, and lots of them
Wrong thread (sorry) but that do push ups really help? (says he with a slight hint of almost niggly tennis elbow,...)
I concur with press-up advice, has also worked for me. Push up to straight arms to give the forearms a good stretch.
I know this is still a bit off topic, but how fast do you do the press ups?
Good Q, and taking it off to ANOTHER thread, my arms/shoulders were fucked yesterday after doing their first concerted load of pressups for a good few years. I blame this for my general crapness on Green Traverse  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 10, 2009, 09:31:37 am
No it's cos you're not using your heels.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 10, 2009, 09:32:49 am
YYFY! Just bagged myself a new job and can now wave goodbye to the shit hold I've been working in (hopefully new one will be better!).

Did you get that job as Spokesperson For Raising Awareness About Open Source Operating Systems?

Hope they treat you right
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 10, 2009, 12:33:13 pm
I do take my role as UKB Tech support and FOSS advocate very seriously and will endeavour to keep abreast of the duties they entail.

Hopefully though there'll just be a drop off in the amount of shit I post which can't be that bad a thing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on September 11, 2009, 01:19:20 am
tonight I crushed 3 of my 17 aims this year ! Ok so two were easy problems, but I've been wanting Pickpockets scalp for a while, and it feels awesome!  :dance1:
No big numbers or owt, but it's great when you feel like you're climbing well!!
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on September 11, 2009, 08:13:33 am
effort
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 11, 2009, 08:19:21 am
Good work rginns
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 11, 2009, 08:33:24 am
Nice one rick, how are the tendons?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 11, 2009, 08:33:33 am
Nice one Mr Ginns :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on September 11, 2009, 09:25:27 am
cheers chaps  ;) tendons not too bad really Andi!
Now need to work through the rest...!
cheers GCW for "spotting" (abuse)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on September 11, 2009, 04:04:10 pm
If you stopped being a pansy, you wouldn't get abuse  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on September 12, 2009, 09:18:58 am
Day 3 of being unemployed, and my Beastmaker has arrived. Oh yes!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on September 13, 2009, 09:08:23 pm
Finally bagged the Top Cat Traverse at Almscliff today.   After dropping the low slopey finish a few times I thought my time had gone, but black coffee and an apple did their magic.  Having spent Saturday at a work meeting in Birmingham probably helped too - added motivation for making the best of the day.  Probably more relieved than pleased though... those holds are painful.  Still, a reassuring day's work for a weak wage-slave with a dodgy elbow.  Justifying a cake from the farmshop and a few dips into my case of obscure foreign beers.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on September 14, 2009, 12:24:26 pm
 :great: good work Moosy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on September 14, 2009, 12:58:59 pm
Finally bagged the Top Cat Traverse at Almscliff today.   After dropping the low slopey finish a few times I thought my time had gone, but black coffee and an apple did their magic.  Having spent Saturday at a work meeting in Birmingham probably helped too - added motivation for making the best of the day.  Probably more relieved than pleased though... those holds are painful.  Still, a reassuring day's work for a weak wage-slave with a dodgy elbow.  Justifying a cake from the farmshop and a few dips into my case of obscure foreign beers.   

Nice work Moose - I too dropped the slopey finish a few times before I did it, although easier than the pocket section, its definitely the red point crux.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on September 14, 2009, 02:15:14 pm
Finally bagged the Top Cat Traverse at Almscliff today.   After dropping the low slopey finish a few times I thought my time had gone, but black coffee and an apple did their magic.  Having spent Saturday at a work meeting in Birmingham probably helped too - added motivation for making the best of the day.  Probably more relieved than pleased though... those holds are painful.  Still, a reassuring day's work for a weak wage-slave with a dodgy elbow.  Justifying a cake from the farmshop and a few dips into my case of obscure foreign beers.   

must have been nippy up there in the wind without a down jacket..........you see where this is going.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 14, 2009, 03:04:36 pm
Completed my south peak limetone proj on Saturday – The Great Tribulation E6 6b ***  :)
Very steep and unique for the Peak as far as I can think. Nice open setting and shady all day. Stays dry even in heavy rain. The climbing is solid 7c in standard and the gear is pretty good with some insitu stuff (old pegs left in and two swapped for new ones, plus a couple of threads) and decent runners where you need them. The bottom involves steep 3D climbing up blocky overhangs, the middle is steep but steady, the top is a brilliant super steep finger crack to some glory jugs. Very ground-uppable, though would be a very tough onsight. Keepads useful.

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3530/3918981453_8e1b768d59.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3436/3918981477_6fc1db43fe.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on September 14, 2009, 03:06:47 pm
Very steep and unique for the Peak

You should make things out of clay, and lay by the bay.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on September 14, 2009, 03:10:56 pm
nice one - looks good, so where is it like?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 14, 2009, 03:52:01 pm
Oh yeah, I guess that might be useful info. It’s at Hipley Hill SK 211546  (not in any guides since the old BMC Southern Limestone guide from the 80s). It’s on the Grangemill – Ashbourne road 300m south of a turn off for Brassington (look out for signs for Spencer Bros just before turn off). Limited parking 150m up this turn off by gate on the right. Crag is visible on the east side of the road. No access probs according to the old guide, but things might have changed. The hill above is an SSSI with lots of rare meadow plants (Jabob’s Ladder, Angulate Solomon’s Seal, Herb Paris), partly for this reason and partly due to looseness I placed a lower-off to avoid the need to topout.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tlr on September 14, 2009, 03:55:05 pm
Good effort. I've often looked at that hanging crack as I cycled past and wondered if anything went up it.

Very pleasant location.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SteveM on September 15, 2009, 04:39:13 pm
YYFY! I just got a job offer, substantially more wad in the pocket that means the end of  working for the local government-esque fuckwits here! On the downside I won't be able to commute on my bike because it's in Knaresborough (home is Sheffield) but we can make the longer commute work by renting a room up there and it's not like there's a paucity of rock in that corner of the world. Hell I could still commute on my bike from local doss room to the office if I can work that out.

YYFY!

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 15, 2009, 04:49:02 pm
YYFY! I just got a job offer, substantially more wad in the pocket that means the end of  working for the local government-esque fuckwits here! On the downside I won't be able to commute on my bike because it's in Knaresborough (home is Sheffield) but we can make the longer commute work by renting a room up there and it's not like there's a paucity of rock in that corner of the world. Hell I could still commute on my bike from local doss room to the office if I can work that out.

YYFY!

 ;D

Nice one Steve - was that the job you went for ages ago up there? Shame the evenings are starting to draw in, would be good to meet up @ the cliff again sometime..
T
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SteveM on September 15, 2009, 05:09:24 pm
Nice one Steve - was that the job you went for ages ago up there? Shame the evenings are starting to draw in, would be good to meet up @ the cliff again sometime..
T
Yep, one and the same. I called them up again and the conversation started with "You know that job offer I declined last year, and how you said to call if anything changed. Well..."

I shall definitely be up for some cliff action. Bring a lantern, I've still got that big gas fired one for just this sort of thing! And Wetherby's literally on my commute too...

 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 15, 2009, 05:26:02 pm
Nice one Steve - was that the job you went for ages ago up there? Shame the evenings are starting to draw in, would be good to meet up @ the cliff again sometime..
T
Yep, one and the same. I called them up again and the conversation started with "You know that job offer I declined last year, and how you said to call if anything changed. Well..."

I shall definitely be up for some cliff action. Bring a lantern, I've still got that big gas fired one for just this sort of thing! And Wetherby's literally on my commute too...

 ;)
:thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on September 15, 2009, 11:40:06 pm
My first YYFY and its a double. I got Leather Joy Boys at Newstones done yesterday and Monologue on Ramshaw got crushed this evening on my first try of the session 8).
Anyone done Monologue? seemed a bit soft for 7c maybe 7b/+. I hadnt climbed harder than 7a+ before yesterday, so i cant really judge.

Anyway YYFY!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on September 16, 2009, 12:25:50 am
Completed my south peak limetone proj on Saturday – The Great Tribulation E6 6b ***  :)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3530/3918981453_8e1b768d59.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3436/3918981477_6fc1db43fe.jpg)

Top marks for doing it without bolts. What is the finish like ? - I remember it looking like it would have a grovelly  grassy topout. I thought if I ever did it I would call it the 'Hipley Hill Billy' !

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 16, 2009, 08:39:38 am
I had a go at cleaning the topout on abseil, but soon gave it up as a bad job and put in a  lower off instead. As well as being grim, topping out lands you on an SSSI and stops the route being climabable in the rain, which it otherwise is. The lower-off also makes stripping the route less of a pain.
Do you know any more of the history of this line Simon? As well as all the old pegs and threads it has about 4 old bolt sleeves in the lower half. I know Malc Taylor and Martin Roome tried it and I think they put the pegs/threads in, but I’ve no idea about the bolts. There was also some wooden wedges in the roof to the right, I guess from the aiding days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 16, 2009, 08:57:20 am
Quote
Anyone done Monologue? seemed a bit soft for 7c maybe 7b/+.

How tall are you? Remember it being a bit morpho...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on September 16, 2009, 09:10:14 am
Yes the lower-off makes sense. It used to be an aid route. I turned up with Seb one day to have a go - I think we had been drinking as it was a wet day and there were some bolts  in (put in by Malc or one of his mates I think) which was something of a visual abhorence then (The times, the manners..) to me at least. So I took them out and rubbed mud into them to disguise the sleeves even. Apparently the mud ruined the internal thread of the bolt sleeves so Malc couldnt put new hangers back on he later told Seb. It was too hard for me at the time we went, but its been in the back of my mind to do it for 20 years as there are few opportunities for good hard well protected trad lime routes like this. Really glad you chose to do it this way.  :great: Kick up the backside as well for another route in a similarish vein too...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 16, 2009, 09:18:25 am
Good work on the new route Bonjoy.

Congrats on the new job Steve.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on September 16, 2009, 09:53:44 am
How tall are you? Remember it being a bit morpho...

Average height, maybe 5'10/11. Felt very stretched at the top, couldnt keep my heel hook on when i was doing the last few moves. How did you find it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 16, 2009, 10:02:39 am
I get to the stretched bit and can't reach the top. Must try harder...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 16, 2009, 10:06:37 am
Yes the lower-off makes sense. It used to be an aid route. I turned up with Seb one day to have a go - I think we had been drinking as it was a wet day and there were some bolts  in (put in by Malc or one of his mates I think) which was something of a visual abhorence then (The times, the manners..) to me at least. So I took them out and rubbed mud into them to disguise the sleeves even. Apparently the mud ruined the internal thread of the bolt sleeves so Malc couldnt put new hangers back on he later told Seb. It was too hard for me at the time we went, but its been in the back of my mind to do it for 20 years as there are few opportunities for good hard well protected trad lime routes like this. Really glad you chose to do it this way.  :great: Kick up the backside as well for another route in a similarish vein too...
Cheers, it’s good to know some more of the line's (chequered) history. Sounds like you did me a favour putting mud in those bolt sleeves, otherwise it might already have been climbed! I’m reminded of another similar possibility too, I wonder if we’re thinking about the same line?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on September 16, 2009, 10:10:11 pm
Completed my south peak limetone proj on Saturday – The Great Tribulation E6 6b ***  :)

Nice one dude. I'd be really excited about getting in there for the second ascent if i could do much more than type right now (blubblub, whinge whinge :boohoo:)
Looks like a really good route. Too good for a fruit / sparrow / cheeseboard related moniker? Or not good enough?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 16, 2009, 10:27:35 pm
Yeah, damn shame your out of action for the second ascent. They say how long before you're fixed?
I think the plum/pippet/port salut theme might be making a resurgence this winter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on September 17, 2009, 05:13:28 pm
Yeah, damn shame your out of action for the second ascent. They say how long before you're fixed?
I think the plum/pippet/port salut theme might be making a resurgence this winter.

Doc said today i could climb again in 3 weeks. I reckon i'll be on easy stuff before that though. I suspect shady trad limestone may be out by the time i'm back on savage F7c trad routes though...

I look forward to 'mi amigo the pecorino / papaya'.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 18, 2009, 08:03:13 am
RAINBOW FUKCING ROCKET AT LAST YYFY

I missed this. Nice one Neil!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 18, 2009, 09:28:00 am
A very minor YYFY (especially considering Stevies 9a exploits...) but I managed to haul my carcass up Comedy at Kilnsey yesterday, which is my first 7c (and very nice it was too).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 18, 2009, 09:35:22 am
Well done Nik  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2009, 10:11:09 am
A very minor YYFY (especially considering Stevies 9a exploits...)

Has Haston done Nik's Wall though??

Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on September 18, 2009, 12:50:01 pm
YYFY! I've got a job!

Best thing is, i was outsourced by company 'A' to company 'B' in April 09 was made redundant by company 'B' on 04/09/2009. Three days later i was offered a job working for company A!

So I've pocketed the redundancy money and started a new job on the same salary! If that's not a YYFY moment then I don't know what is!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 18, 2009, 12:52:27 pm
 :thumbsup:  Get in.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 18, 2009, 12:59:46 pm
Sweet, a result!  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2009, 01:47:48 pm
If that's not a YYFY moment then I don't know what is!

Nice one. Is it an immediate start, or do you have a bit more time off?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on September 18, 2009, 08:27:47 pm
two YYFY's in as many weeks - a flying visit to Brownstones yielded Low Break Traverse, another one off the years aims list, woohoo!
 :dance1:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on September 19, 2009, 10:17:12 am
If that's not a YYFY moment then I don't know what is!

Nice one. Is it an immediate start, or do you have a bit more time off?

I've had a week in Sardinia and I've got next week off. I Would have preferred a bit longer but the sooner I start, the less of the redundancy money I have to dip into.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on September 19, 2009, 11:46:51 am
A very minor YYFY (especially considering Stevies 9a exploits...) but I managed to haul my carcass up Comedy at Kilnsey yesterday, which is my first 7c (and very nice it was too).

 :great: You'll be warming up on it next  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 19, 2009, 07:03:39 pm
A very minor YYFY (especially considering Stevies 9a exploits...) but I managed to haul my carcass up Comedy at Kilnsey yesterday, which is my first 7c (and very nice it was too).

 :great: You'll be warming up on it next  ;D

No he won't...
Nik never bothers warming up!  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 19, 2009, 08:26:32 pm
 :)
It's funny cos it's true.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 20, 2009, 06:05:15 pm
A personal YYFY. Today was the first time I've been climbing since last December when I haven't worried whether my leg was going to collapse mid route or whether I'd be able to do a high rock up. At Ilkley Quarry today I didn't lead anything hard and most of the climbs I'd done before but to be getting up VSs and HVSs and not being worried about where my last piece of gear is and generally just cruising without a care was something I haven't felt in a long time. It was when I got to the top of S Crack that I finally felt normal again, something that I now realise I haven't felt while climbing for a long time.

Ironically when I'm climbing is when I don't feel the pain in my leg. Its when I'm sat on my arse not moving it that it starts to ache.

YYFY! Let's go climbing  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 20, 2009, 07:06:28 pm
Good effort Will. In all my years of recklessness I never had to experience a bad injury such as yours and am not sure I would have bounced back at all.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on September 20, 2009, 07:24:22 pm
Nice one I don't know what you did but it's bloody good to see that you're back in the game.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jfw on September 20, 2009, 07:29:37 pm
any news from andy f?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 20, 2009, 07:33:15 pm
Good to hear the climbing mind is well on its way to recovery Will...  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 20, 2009, 07:34:45 pm
Yeah, c'mon Andy, today was surely the day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on September 20, 2009, 07:48:40 pm
Actually it wasn't  :(. The undercut was damp and needed ragging, plus not being on the route for a couple of weeks I felt clunky for the first few goes, then my power faded. If it stay's dry then next week could be good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 20, 2009, 07:51:21 pm
Keep the faith true believer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on September 20, 2009, 08:16:27 pm
The forecast on the metoffice site show's a little bit of rain on tues/wed but not a deluge so it could stay dry. On a plus side I did it in two on my last go, with about 15 seconds rest by the 4th clip, showing the fitness is still there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 20, 2009, 09:26:37 pm
Flashed my first route 8a today! YYFY, though more of a NNFN, as it was more like 7c+. But that is also a YYFY as it was on the aims lift for 2009.
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 20, 2009, 09:43:09 pm
Nice one Adam. Got up early enough and despite slight hungover walked down to boulders on the coast near house and got a lovely tidal prow cleaned, sussed and FA'ed in bone dry cold sunny conditions. Not hard - 6b/c or so, but potential for a harder version still to do, which may have to wait for me to get stronger and get good conditions on next low spring tide (a month or so!). Amazing as until I went down last month on the lowest tide of the year I didn't even know it was there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on September 20, 2009, 09:59:44 pm
YYFY!

2!!

1st: spent 4 hrs sorting out the dump that was my garage.. so I can use my board!! good job, as I'm bookin maisonbleau for the week after easter - with an aim for a 7a in an hour that I've not done before!! might need some pointers.. flowing slaps up perfect scoops a speciality..

2nd:... freeride MTB in grenoside today, got a bit freaked on a track not done before.. well spicy. hit the final drop at a fine speed (only 4 ft, but into classic greno no run out and off camber *mind the trees* sort of track).. bloody great!!

what a beautiful day, cool, clear and still.

YYFY, before a week of work stress..


sweet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 20, 2009, 10:11:12 pm
General nice oneishness all round chaps.

Tanners, go beast

Chris FA's rock

Fatdoc Surplomb de la Coquille at Hautes-Plaines might work for you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on September 20, 2009, 11:58:08 pm
Took some inspiration from Mr Haston today and bagged my first french 8a at 33.  YYFY.

I now have 19 years to do 9a!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 21, 2009, 08:06:16 am
Nice one, wot you get done?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on September 21, 2009, 10:26:36 am
I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 21, 2009, 10:57:50 am
I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

I bet you flu up it!  :-[  (sorry couldn't resist).. Good effort sir.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on September 21, 2009, 11:02:07 am
with an aim for a 7a in an hour that I've not done before!! might need some pointers.. flowing slaps up perfect scoops a speciality..

Fatdoc Surplomb de la Coquille at Hautes-Plaines might work for you?

La Coquille is 6c unless you go for the sitter. And it's not exactly flowing up scoops. It more like slapping between big crimps.

I'd say the Joker at Bas Cuvier. It's pretty flowy if you do it the French way i.e. throw over to the top hold with the left, rather than gaston with the right.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on September 21, 2009, 02:29:01 pm
so instead of doing one of the easiest (and very good) 7a's in the forest, you suggest trying the hardest (and shitest)?!?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on September 21, 2009, 02:42:10 pm
so instead of doing one of the easiest (and very good) 7a's in the forest, you suggest trying the hardest (and shitest)?!?

Why do a soft-touch, when you can do something that's solid for the grade. Otherwise everyone knows you've done it because it's soft-touch. I must admit, I've not done it from a sitter, but it doesn't look like it's gonna be a good problem. If you're going to do a soft-touch, you might as well do Corto Maltese. That way, once you've pissed it, you can do l'Helicoptre (possibly the best 7a in the Forest?). Then you can wander down the path and do Duroxmanie (certainly the best problem I've done in Font).

Oh,and I thought The Joker was solid, but good fun. Proper physical, especially the top out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on September 21, 2009, 02:51:20 pm
unpleasant finger knackering holds, awkward body position, horrible polished footholds, just generally unpleasant.
And no I've not done it.
The sitter to coquille however is very good with some nice holds and some good moves
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 21, 2009, 03:16:49 pm
I have to say that was my thinking also Jim. Whilst it is probably at the lower end of the 7a spectrum it still deserves the grade and is also very flashable which bodes well for the desired quick ascent.
I thought it was a nice sequence on very pleasant holds.
Folks, strokes etc etc :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on September 21, 2009, 03:23:22 pm
Helicopter one of the best 7a's in the forest?   :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on September 21, 2009, 03:49:08 pm

The sitter to coquille however is very good with some nice holds and some good moves

I nearly falshed the stand (second go) but couldn't get near the sitter. Is it that much harder or was I using whack beta?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Clart on September 21, 2009, 03:52:50 pm
I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

Tidy butt!  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 21, 2009, 03:54:43 pm
unpleasant finger knackering holds, awkward body position, horrible polished footholds, just generally unpleasant.


You forgot eliminate and chipped.

And no I've not done it.


I have but I wouldn't bother doing it again. I know it's just a matter of opinion but I thought it was only popular because of it's historical importance.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Clart on September 21, 2009, 04:01:37 pm

The sitter to coquille however is very good with some nice holds and some good moves

I nearly falshed the stand (second go) but couldn't get near the sitter. Is it that much harder or was I using whack beta?

Deep Egyptian facing left at start, big left arm lock to right hand crimp and you're off. I didn't think it was that much harder but then I likes my crimps.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on September 21, 2009, 04:57:22 pm
Took some inspiration from Mr Haston today and bagged my first french 8a at 33.  YYFY.

I now have 19 years to do 9a!

Nice work Kev! Hope to see you soon. Keep at it!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 21, 2009, 08:26:20 pm
I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

Cool. We can slag you off a bit if it helps? Seemed to work for Mr haston?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on September 21, 2009, 08:48:16 pm
I climbed H1N1 at Dinas Rock, South Wales.  It's a slightly harder variation of an existing 8a there called Bloody Sport Climbers.  I was even more pleased as this was only the second ascent!

Nice one Kev, you gonna have a manic long distance drive up north again soon?  I understand that Owen is heading your way next weekend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on September 21, 2009, 09:23:10 pm
Good stuff Kev! Keep crushing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on September 21, 2009, 10:08:08 pm

If you're going to do a soft-touch, you might as well do Corto Maltese. That way, once you've pissed it, you can do l'Helicoptre (possibly the best 7a in the Forest?). Then you can wander down the path and do Duroxmanie (certainly the best problem I've done in Font).

Oh,and I thought The Joker was solid, but good fun. Proper physical, especially the top out.

Holy shit, Helecoptre and Duroxmanie were the best problems you did in Font?  You need to get away from Cuvier.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on September 21, 2009, 10:50:06 pm
I flashed Durox.

I span of helicopter... Missed by megagrip pad and swore never to try again.

Anything to suggest near buthiers?

Cheers
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on September 21, 2009, 10:52:09 pm
Safer than 'helecoptre:

broken leg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SS8BEKOkGI#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on September 21, 2009, 11:03:08 pm
Holy shit, Helecoptre and Duroxmanie were the best problems you did in Font?  You need to get away from Cuvier.

I do find that I like a lot of problems which other people think aren't that good. Those two were some of the most fun I did. The Helicopter move is a right giggle! And Duroxmanie was lovely flowy climbing, up a cool feature. I have tried some other cool problems, but failed on them, so can't really recommend them.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on September 21, 2009, 11:16:43 pm
Safer than 'helecoptre:

broken leg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SS8BEKOkGI#)

Yeah an a better sequence too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nic mullin on September 21, 2009, 11:25:41 pm

They're both great problems.

In terms of their relative danger, I came off helecoptre on numerous occasions before doing it, including face first, missing pads, hitting spotters etc. and was fine. I came off the top of Duroxmanie feet first, with several spotters onto several pads and bust my ankle. Go figure...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 22, 2009, 07:04:17 am
Safer than 'helecoptre:

broken leg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SS8BEKOkGI#)

You mean you can hurt yourself on L'helicopetre?

Broken Leg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3j5fxKt7jk#)

(Posted before, but not for the faint-hearted or whilst eating breakfast!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on September 22, 2009, 07:10:30 am
Yes, but I've posted that before a couple of times and didn't want to pollute a serious thread with gratuitous fractures. 
Some people have no taste  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 22, 2009, 08:05:31 am
La Rampe at Buthiers was good IMHO.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on September 22, 2009, 08:37:33 am
You mean you can hurt yourself on L'helicopetre?

Broken Leg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3j5fxKt7jk#)

(Posted before, but not for the faint-hearted or whilst eating breakfast!)

Turns out I know the guy who runs away very quickly at the end there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 22, 2009, 08:47:41 am
Some people have no taste  :P

Why thank you very much  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 22, 2009, 08:52:43 am
Some people have no taste  :P

Why thank you very much  :)

Your Lamphrey/finger flapper photoshop medley still makes me retch/shudder!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on September 22, 2009, 10:36:30 am


(Posted before, but not for the faint-hearted or whilst eating breakfast!)

 :o :o :o :'(

ouch!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 22, 2009, 11:15:10 am
Your Lamphrey/finger flapper photoshop medley still makes me retch/shudder!

You mean this one?

(http://misseye.files.wordpress.com/2007/07/fingers16xy14zy0cs.jpg)

There's also the heel variant...

(http://i29.tinypic.com/b6tv0g.jpg)

 :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on September 22, 2009, 11:17:45 am
Cheers lads!  Owen is down Saturday.  Looking forward to seeing him finish of some of the Dinas Problems.  I need to get you all down sometime for the grand tour.  In the meantime though, winter is coming and I can't wait to get up north; probably start the ball rolling some time in October.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on September 22, 2009, 11:26:46 am
 :thumbsdown: :furious: :thumbsdown:
That's f-ing grim Slackline!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 22, 2009, 11:31:09 am
:thumbsdown: :furious: :thumbsdown:
That's f-ing grim Slackline!!!!

Sorry, I'm just the messenger (had completely forgotten about those until tomtom reminded me, even had to google for them again!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on September 22, 2009, 11:42:37 am


Sorry, I'm just the messenger (had completely forgotten about those until tomtom reminded me, even had to google for them again!)
[/quote]

In that case you need shooting!   ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on September 22, 2009, 01:40:37 pm
Your Lamphrey/finger flapper photoshop medley still makes me retch/shudder!

You mean this one?

(http://misseye.files.wordpress.com/2007/07/fingers16xy14zy0cs.jpg)

There's also the heel variant...

(http://i29.tinypic.com/b6tv0g.jpg)

 :P

Grim indeed, but not so bad on second viewing. Is it just me that finds the toes in that second picture weirder than the heels? Can't explain it, something about the little toe on the right foot.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 22, 2009, 07:25:49 pm
(http://www.clipartof.com/images/thumbnail/2202.gif)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on September 22, 2009, 09:26:34 pm
Two YYFY's in a week, i am feeling greedy! First 8b today, Revelations at the tor.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 22, 2009, 09:55:28 pm
tidy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on September 22, 2009, 10:11:00 pm
 :great: nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benpritch on September 23, 2009, 10:09:21 am
Two YYFY's in a week, i am feeling greedy! First 8b today, Revelations at the tor.  ;D

after pissing the first move three times!!

good work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 23, 2009, 10:13:09 am
Two YYFY's in a week, i am feeling greedy! First 8b today, Revelations at the tor.  ;D

Well done Adam  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: n_man on September 23, 2009, 11:53:57 am
Those pics and vids should be in no no fucking no!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on September 23, 2009, 12:35:01 pm
I´ve been saving my entry into this for something that felt like it really merited it, and finally (actually about 2 weeks ago) it´s arrived. It´s not at the tor. It´s not at stoney. It´s not even on peak lime. It doesn´t have numbered holds or any rules (so it doesn´t really count) but anyway...

 :dance1:
YYFY
Got my first 8a flash in rodellar (corredor), and a taster of an 8a onsight with El Sepes which gets 7c+/8a (it´s really 7c+ probably, but Pickford said 8a and the punters on 8a.nu take the grade which gives me a nice warm feeling inside)
:dance1:  Chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 23, 2009, 01:37:35 pm
Effort. That was my first 8a flash too. If you're still there you should try to flash Limit, the newish route next door. Harder than Corredor (given 8a+ when I was there), but very flashable. And also Adios Pepita at Piscineta, which I always bang on at folk to try but nobody's ever arsed to do the walkin.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on September 25, 2009, 06:43:50 pm
Didn't get on Limit No, but one of my mates did it and the other flashed it, they seemed to think easy 8a to the first chains, harder 8a to the top.. on the list for when I get back there. Didn't get around to going to piscinetta, though it does look mega from a pic I saw, another reason to get back ASAP! What a brilliant place, no wonder moving to Spain seems to be the thing to do nowadays.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 28, 2009, 09:28:14 pm
These past few days have been days of nemesis tickage. Firstly, yesterday, I did Lifeline "V4" at brownstones, then today I did Pebble Wall "V5" at the cliff. Si si fanculo si.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 28, 2009, 10:45:18 pm
Effort beast!

I also ticked one of my goals for the year with a 7a sport route  :lol:

Just the E4 to go now  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 28, 2009, 11:49:04 pm
Effort beast!

I also ticked one of my goals for the year with a 7a sport route  :lol:

Just the E4 to go now  :-\

Which one you do?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 29, 2009, 07:16:45 am
These past few days have been days of nemesis tickage. Firstly, yesterday, I did Lifeline "V4" at brownstones, then today I did Pebble Wall "V5" at the cliff. Si si fanculo si.

 :thumbsup: Well done andi
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 29, 2009, 08:36:04 am
Which one you do?

Jack the Smuggler at Llanymynech which was really nice wall climbing, followed by Slobberlob which was nice and bouldery but spoiled slightly by about the amount of dust/clay on the holds!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on September 29, 2009, 10:06:36 pm
sorry for not being bouldering or climbing related but
YYFY
After a vase fell off the mantle piece smashing the screen on a practically brand new asus eee 1000he netbook (proper NNFN moment), I bought a new one off ebay and have just succesfully replaced it after a lot of intense concentration and am now pleased yet fully knackered
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 30, 2009, 08:33:35 am
I can imagine. Vases are sometimes tricky to place.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 30, 2009, 04:51:50 pm
Crouch how the hell had you not done a 7a sport route. Even I've flashed a 7a sport route! I thought you were meant to be some sort of scouse crushing machine.

As for E4 go and do Jetrunner at Bamford. Nice and soft (I didn't think it was hard for E3) and even easier if you're lankful. Gear is easy to place (take some small wires with you) and is bomber. The crux for you if you're not used to trad head games will probably be the runout to the top. Stack up the cams in the break and go!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 01, 2009, 09:34:41 pm
I've spent the last few months finding quality projects at obscure venues across Cheshire but tonight I actually managed to tick one of them; YYFY! Manley Knoll is a minor venue but Manley Virtues is a mega classic arete. Ben F was straight in for the second ascent. We've gone for V6 but this 'highball' is 30' high and the hard climbing is all in the top half. The crag also boasts an excellent lowball, Backwoods Man V6. Excellent, I've remembered why I love climbing so much.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Joepicalli on October 01, 2009, 09:50:21 pm
I've spent the last few months finding quality projects at obscure venues across Cheshire but tonight I actually managed to tick one of them; YYFY! Manley Knoll is a minor venue but Manley Virtues is a mega classic arete. Ben F was straight in for the second ascent. We've gone for V6 but this 'highball' is 30' high and the hard climbing is all in the top half. The crag also boasts an excellent lowball, Backwoods Man V6. Excellent, I've remembered why I love climbing so much.
Ah Andy, mate, fucking brill. Great to see you doing what you do best again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on October 01, 2009, 10:01:06 pm
Excellent, I've remembered why I love climbing so much.

Kindred and all that - I was saving my #500 post for something special but I think your prolonged dedication and enthusiam could well be that. Keep them coming Andy.  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on October 02, 2009, 07:18:35 pm
Excellent, I've remembered why I love climbing so much.

 :agree:  Yup, another quality evening out in Cheshire.  It's a great little route in a wonderful setting, thanks for sharing it.  Now we'll keep getting out when we can and crush some more.  I have the belief mate!   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 02, 2009, 07:39:15 pm
I've spent the last few months finding quality projects at obscure venues across Cheshire but tonight I actually managed to tick one of them; YYFY! Manley Knoll is a minor venue but Manley Virtues is a mega classic arete. Ben F was straight in for the second ascent. We've gone for V6 but this 'highball' is 30' high and the hard climbing is all in the top half. The crag also boasts an excellent lowball, Backwoods Man V6. Excellent, I've remembered why I love climbing so much.

Sounds ace, pics??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 02, 2009, 08:07:37 pm
Afraid not, there was only me and Ben and a spotter was definitely needed. Its a shame as the crag is in lovely broadleaf woodland and with the time of the year and a beautiful evening it did look nice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 02, 2009, 08:51:32 pm
Catalepsy at Pex, 24 years after first trying it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 02, 2009, 08:57:55 pm
Ben told me it was a fine first go of the evening effort too. That must feel satisfying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Joepicalli on October 03, 2009, 12:29:07 am
Catalepsy at Pex, 24 years after first trying it.
You're really smokin' at the mo' good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on October 03, 2009, 09:35:58 am
Catalepsy at Pex, 24 years after first trying it.

Wow, hello John.  So I was there to witness this YYFY moment too!  You absolutely romped up catalepsy mate and it was great to meet you.  If people are after their own YYFY moment and want to hire me out for spotting or beta duties, feel free to contact me.  I'm obviously bringing good luck at the moment, even if I never seem to manage a YYFY moment myself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on October 03, 2009, 09:41:41 am
Ben, fancy a Kilnsey trip  :please:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on October 03, 2009, 09:55:44 am
 :lol:  :lol:  I suspect it only works on sandstone mate. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 03, 2009, 11:29:25 am
Thanks guys it's great to be encouraged. Good to meet you Ben tho' shame you and your talismanic properties left when you did as I contrived to damage a biceps tendon laddering shortly afterwards! There'll be no YYFY for a bit now... but it'll heal in due course.
How's things going at Central Buttress Joe, any joy?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on October 03, 2009, 11:33:54 am
:lol:  :lol:  I suspect it only works on sandstone mate.

Bugger - was tempted to hire you to see if I could get the odd grit nemesis out of the way...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on October 03, 2009, 12:08:47 pm
Bugger - was tempted to hire you to see if I could get the odd grit nemesis out of the way...

Oh don't worry, I'll give it a go.  As long it's nothing as hard as Cresent Arete!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 03, 2009, 12:20:33 pm
Now that's a question and comparison for Schlopar  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on October 03, 2009, 12:34:49 pm
Oh really?  Does he have an opinion on it then?  Maybe he'll let us know what he thinks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on October 03, 2009, 12:45:21 pm
YYFY, managed to do Rockatrocity yesterday after some of the weirdest sessions, not been able to touch it on some and greasing off the last move constantly on others.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on October 03, 2009, 12:48:34 pm
Bugger - was tempted to hire you to see if I could get the odd grit nemesis out of the way...

Oh don't worry, I'll give it a go.  As long it's nothing as hard as Cresent Arete!

That is on the list but not till I get Pebble Arete out of the way.

Now that's a question and comparison for Schlopar  ::)

He has an opinion on Crescent Arete does he - quelle suprise?  ;) I have to endure him going on about Strawberries being overgraded all the time - think it is down at about 4 or 4+ now in his world.  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 04, 2009, 08:14:49 pm
Flashed Manson's Wall today. Not a long term goal or anything so only mild YYFY but nice to get up something like that first try.

Found it very straightforward (it was chalked) and maybe V4 5c? Sorry Font 6b.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 04, 2009, 08:21:48 pm
Did you try Phil's then?  Different proposition :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JohnM on October 04, 2009, 08:30:03 pm
Quote
Is it in the woods near Manley?
Quote
No and no. Sorry, really don't want to say anymore for now given potential access issues. All should be revealed in the new guide. Wish I did have a good photo of Harmer's to post.
Quote
I've spent the last few months finding quality projects at obscure venues across Cheshire but tonight I actually managed to tick one of them; YYFY! Manley Knoll is a minor venue but Manley Virtues is a mega classic arete. Ben F was straight in for the second ascent. We've gone for V6 but this 'highball' is 30' high and the hard climbing is all in the top half. The crag also boasts an excellent lowball, Backwoods Man V6. Excellent, I've remembered why I love climbing so much.
;) It wasn't a bad guess then!?  Any approach details or will I have to wait for the new guide?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 04, 2009, 11:35:44 pm
A minor YES in the world of YYFYs, but I did The Green Traverse this morning. I have done it loads of times in the past, but not recently. Because I am so unfit at the moment I had intended to just try the move off the crimps to the jug - this felt fine so I did the drop down onto the crimps and then finished the rest of the traverse - another couple of goes and I did it from the start - trembling with excitement as I started, euphoric as I finished  :thumbsup:
This leaves me feeling well psyched for the grit season (when it gets called) and totally amazed at my ability to haul my flabby bulk around. It might even motivate me to lose some more flab.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on October 05, 2009, 11:04:12 am
Dropping down to crimps = hero

Effort shandystarfish
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on October 05, 2009, 12:42:47 pm
Nice one Lagers ..... Mind you didn't look that out of shape the other week at Burbage South ..... I had my own little YYFY moment at Burbage North yesterday morn , I finally managed to do the central problem of the wee slab using only the marginal holds and pebbles before the top crimps for the first time in years ....Dropping 10kg is beginning to pay off .... 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on October 05, 2009, 01:59:00 pm
I climbed one of my long term climbing goals yesterday, Mad at the Sun at The Gap in South Wales.  This is renowned as the hardest route on SW sandstone, so was really chuffed.  Also, this was the last route that I hadn't lead there so I have now ticked the entire crag.   YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on October 05, 2009, 08:08:04 pm
YYFY!

Went climbing for the first time since I mashed my ankle up and it felt ok, 4 weeks of training before font!.

Bring it on!
 
;D

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 05, 2009, 08:09:52 pm
stay off the big 4 will. tho you probably just call them the 4 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2009, 08:25:18 am
I climbed one of my long term climbing goals yesterday, Mad at the Sun at The Gap in South Wales.  This is renowned as the hardest route on SW sandstone, so was really chuffed.  Also, this was the last route that I hadn't lead there so I have now ticked the entire crag.   YYFY!

Nice, clearly time to move on then! Time for a big 8?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on October 06, 2009, 12:55:30 pm

Nice, clearly time to move on then! Time for a big 8?

Managed my first French 8a two weeks ago.  My main goal is Font 8a; hopefully this winter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2009, 01:06:27 pm
nice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on October 06, 2009, 08:47:04 pm

[/quote]

Managed my first French 8a two weeks ago.  My main goal is Font 8a; hopefully this winter.
[/quote]

go on then... let the world know what the lucky route was!

YYFY..... i appear to be able to climb again in some form a month after snapping my arm. V1s on plastic have never been so much fun  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on October 08, 2009, 11:54:47 am


go on then... let the world know what the lucky route was!


I did H1N1 at Dinas Rock a couple of weeks back for my first 8, although Mad at the Sun felt as hard as sub 8 could ever possibly get!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Clart on October 11, 2009, 01:15:52 am
I climbed one of my long term climbing goals yesterday, Mad at the Sun at The Gap in South Wales.  This is renowned as the hardest route on SW sandstone, so was really chuffed.  Also, this was the last route that I hadn't lead there so I have now ticked the entire crag.   YYFY!

Nice one Kev, you beast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on October 15, 2009, 09:09:26 am
Wandered over to crescent arete on tuesday with my wee mat and no spotters, got to a foot below the "jug" and fell off - landed it perfectly and didn't even feel it, though the adrenalin left me shaking for a few mins. YYFY for surviving my highest fall yet

Wandered back with 3 more pads and 3 mates, forgot to wuss out this time and was up it first go. YYFY!!

And a third YYFY for aacumulating 24 stanage stars - mainly on easy solos - for my 24th bday. Great fun, great day out.

(and my last climb of the day was underground, caving, where i soloed a wee traverse bypassing a pitch - nothing like climbing in wellies and work gloves to get the heart going...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on October 15, 2009, 09:49:04 am
 :lol:  Good work on CA with out damage, you know its only Font 2+ (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12612.0/all.html) though don't you?   ;)

Happy Birthday too good way to spend it :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on October 15, 2009, 06:30:54 pm
:lol:  Good work on CA with out damage, you know its only Font 2+ (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12612.0/all.html) though don't you?   ;)

Happy Birthday too good way to spend it :thumbsup:

Damn, and i was gonna say i'd soloed an E1... wrong forum i guess

 :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on October 15, 2009, 09:38:58 pm
Crushed Predator today. First 8b!!!    :dance1:   and such an awesome route. Glad i managed it before my trip abroad and before the crag got wet!   :beer1:
 
Cheers 
Tim
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drewski Rootbitch on October 15, 2009, 10:02:57 pm
Spot on mate.
You got da skills to pay da bills, or some such.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on October 15, 2009, 10:04:26 pm
Crushed Predator today. First 8b!!!    :dance1:   and such an awesome route. Glad i managed it before my trip abroad and before the crag got wet!   :beer1:
 
Cheers 
Tim

Effort youth   :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on October 16, 2009, 08:23:52 am
Crushed Predator today. First 8b!!!    :dance1:   and such an awesome route. Glad i managed it before my trip abroad and before the crag got wet!   :beer1:
 
Cheers 
Tim

Effort youth   :great:

Cheers Guys  really pleased i got it done. Its been on the cards now for a few weeks since i found a repeatable way of doing the crux. Can start thinking about getting strong now as its bouldering season again  :thumbsup:


Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on October 17, 2009, 04:43:43 pm
YYFY!!!

Small fry, but led The Peapod today after having failed twice last year, very pleased to have ticked another route thats been on my tick list for too long.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on October 17, 2009, 06:10:38 pm
Popped out to the cliff for a quick afternoon session and bagged both Flying Arete and then Pebble Wall - YYFY!

Well pleased with that, especially Pebble Wall - felt nails last time I was on it, what a difference some beta and better conditions make.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on October 17, 2009, 09:13:27 pm
First 7a today. Haven't been climbing in 2 weeks and didn't even expect to be able to get out today. Looks like the running and the gym are starting to pay off! YYFY  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on October 17, 2009, 09:22:21 pm
Nice one Chillax. Which one?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on October 17, 2009, 09:28:37 pm
Cheers! It was Eat It Left in Murlough Bay at Fair Head (Northern Ireland). Not exactly a world famous bouldering location, but a kick ass problem. Now just the nails hard SS to work on, put up by the one and only James Pearson   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 17, 2009, 10:32:28 pm
Well pleased with that, especially Pebble Wall - felt nails last time I was on it, what a difference some beta and better conditions make.

Nice one. You will see now once you have done it the first time, you can do it every time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on October 17, 2009, 10:41:45 pm
Well pleased with that, especially Pebble Wall - felt nails last time I was on it, what a difference some beta and better conditions make.

Nice one. You will see now once you have done it the first time, you can do it every time.

Yeah, see what you mean - ended up going with the heelhook in the cup all the way, think that's good for someone my height. My finger's proper ragged after crimping that pebble though!

That list of 'must do' ticks at The Cliff is two shorter now, but it's still pretty long - think I'm gonna be spending a good while there this winter!  :thumbsup:


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on October 18, 2009, 03:14:23 pm
did festin last week and carnage. wont have to pull on that awefull hold on carnage ever again  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 19, 2009, 01:43:09 pm
Carnage at Malham or Carnage elsewhere?

G' effort regardless.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 19, 2009, 01:47:03 pm
http://bleau.info/cuvier/253.html (http://bleau.info/cuvier/253.html)

Effort Jim.  :spank: Will.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 19, 2009, 01:48:09 pm
did festin last week and carnage. wont have to pull on that awefull hold on carnage ever again  ;D

You mean you're not going to do Carnage Assis and the 1.3bn other variations?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 19, 2009, 01:50:57 pm
Carnage at Malham or Carnage elsewhere?

G' effort regardless.

I'm not sure Jim is sure which end of a sport rope to tie into?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 19, 2009, 04:56:54 pm
I'm not sure Jim is sure which end of a sport rope to tie into?

I don't remember any bolts on Carnage  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on October 19, 2009, 05:48:13 pm
Had a glorious moment on Friday night topping out on a new 7B+ in the Beddgelert Forest. I was totally in bulk; just had enough juice to hold the final slap. First time I've been able to properly push myself bouldering for over a year - dare I say it out loud: "I think my knacked finger might be (almost) better". Great problem, so intense:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=424 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=424)

Then went back on Saturday and did a load of ace slopey first ascents on Noel's White Rhino block (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=423 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=423), then went to see Super Furries in Bangor and ended up partying all night!!

What a weekend!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 20, 2009, 08:15:50 am
I'm not sure Jim is sure which end of a sport rope to tie into?

I don't remember any bolts on Carnage  ;)

I knew some picky pedant would pick up on that as soon as I posted it. If you want to delve in... using a sport rope does not necessarily imply having to do a sport climb :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chriss on October 21, 2009, 08:22:00 pm
Did my first font 7b in the UK yesterday at Bolwles Rocks (sandstone). Not cutting edge, but a YYFY moment for me.
On a side note I have already done two 7b's in the Swiss & one in Mello Blocco, so what dose this say about Euro grades eh? Would be nice to get one in Font before I piss off to Oz in December thou.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on October 21, 2009, 09:09:28 pm
Did Liquid Armbar today!
Been obsessing somewhat about this offwidth for a bit now, but finally got it free today, didn't bleed much either.
Hose
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on October 21, 2009, 10:32:10 pm
Did Liquid Armbar today!
Been obsessing somewhat about this offwidth for a bit now, but finally got it free today, didn't bleed much either.
Hose

Good work, t'is great to get the lines you've wanted to do for ages ticked.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 22, 2009, 12:28:52 pm
Great name.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on October 22, 2009, 12:52:53 pm
Had a glorious moment on Friday night topping out on a new 7B+ in the Beddgelert Forest. I was totally in bulk; just had enough juice to hold the final slap. First time I've been able to properly push myself bouldering for over a year - dare I say it out loud: "I think my knacked finger might be (almost) better". Great problem, so intense:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=424 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=424)

Then went back on Saturday and did a load of ace slopey first ascents on Noel's White Rhino block (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=423 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=423), then went to see Super Furries in Bangor and ended up partying all night!!

What a weekend!  :dance1:

Quote
Freddie Right Hand rates around V5/6/6C/7A

isn't high time you guys sorted your system out when the grades are almost longer than the problem names? How often do you need to repaint the forward slash key on your keyboard?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on October 25, 2009, 07:52:23 am
finally a YYFY moment after a year with very little outdoor play
moving house, a new sprog and family illness pretty much put a stopper on the outdoor play but....

a week in the forest mostly spent camped out under Barre Fix which went on the last day - and easily too...
ignore all the small holds - big moves between the good ones  - 7b+ baby - at last ;D

on another note the boy very much enjoyed the forest - a very scientific test of 50 plus pine cones led to the conclusion that none were tasty  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 25, 2009, 08:17:55 am
Nice one Dr T  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on October 25, 2009, 08:24:21 am
Nice one, a friend had a very similar last day success on this problem this Easter. A few days sat under one overhanging rock and it's worth it, it's totally worth it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tommy on October 25, 2009, 10:46:54 am
Did Liquid Armbar today!
Been obsessing somewhat about this offwidth for a bit now, but finally got it free today, didn't bleed much either.
Hose

Nice one Hosey - such a good name too. Glad you got the psyche together to get it done!! I see you've already spied another project...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on October 26, 2009, 02:17:49 pm
Hi Tom,
Somethings drifted down from the rumour mill, yes.. :whistle:

Happy to relinquish the sharp end on this one if you're up here.

Hosey
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 08, 2009, 06:53:20 pm
Yes yes fucking yes!

Went down to Dumby today, despite still being drunk from last night (got a lift!) without any real intentions of doing much climbing.

Faffed about doing this and that and doing some filming, then noticed some guys were on consolidated, which I've had a bit of a seige on recently, so I chucked my shoes on and had a go. 2nd go I got through to the finish and was quite surprised that I wasn't too trashed. Next go, nailed the bugger!

First 7b+, just need to do a straight-up one now.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Iesu on November 10, 2009, 06:41:20 pm
Demon Wall Roof in twilight yesterday 22 months after first pulling on those holds. fluffed the moves to the upper break past the mono 7 days previously.

It's pretty close to a year since I did my last (first) 7a+, so at this rate I might get DWR Lhand before 2015!

chuffed to bits
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on November 10, 2009, 06:49:59 pm
Demon Wall Roof in twilight yesterday 22 months after first pulling on those holds. fluffed the moves to the upper break past the mono 7 days previously.

It's pretty close to a year since I did my last (first) 7a+, so at this rate I might get DWR Lhand before 2015!

chuffed to bits

Nice one - that's the next thing on my hitlist, but I've only had a couple of sessions on it over the last couple of weeks. So just another 21 months left then right?

 ;)

On a more serious note I'm still struggling with it being 'only' a grade harder than DBS, which I knocked off in a session. Demon Wall Roof feels like another world!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 10, 2009, 07:41:56 pm
Effort Iesu.. took me about 18-20 months of effort!

Its two grades harder than the belly slap isnt it? I thought that 6c+ for DBS, 7a for low crucifix traverse then 7a+ for DWR was the grades - I've only climbed a few low 7's but I certainly found them increasingly hard in that order.
But yes, DWR is quite a bit harder - much more finger, core and shoulder strength required than the slap...
T
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 10, 2009, 07:59:07 pm
just got back from crushing la mandarine, high on the tick list, let the font font season begin,
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 10, 2009, 08:26:17 pm
nice one neil.

I thought DWR easier than DBS  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 10, 2009, 09:09:19 pm
nice one neil.

I thought DWR easier than DBS  :-\

Are you strong? I am weak and tall  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 10, 2009, 10:27:15 pm
you've got me,

strong and fat
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 11, 2009, 08:45:19 am
just got back from crushing la mandarine

That looks like an amazing problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on November 11, 2009, 09:04:55 am
eliminate thought innit?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 11, 2009, 09:12:50 am
Cos of this.....

http://bleau.info/oiseaux/9593-11087.html (http://bleau.info/oiseaux/9593-11087.html)

.......yeah. The harder version looks pretty independent though. And amazing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2009, 09:30:56 am
Nice Neil. Mandarin next, while you are there?

Have you bagged any/many 8s yet?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 11, 2009, 10:16:36 am
Good effort Jesse! You monster! must be the handlebars.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 11, 2009, 10:42:16 am
Nice Neil. Mandarin next, while you are there?

Have you bagged any/many 8s yet?

Bleau.info has neil ticking a 8a, the bastard, not jealous at all.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2009, 11:09:26 am
Impressive. Neils ticklist = my wishlist.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 11, 2009, 11:14:06 am
p.s. Neil, did you clap at the top of Mandarin? Bon effort mon ami
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 11, 2009, 11:14:40 am
i did mandarine http://bleau.info/oiseaux/1289.html (http://bleau.info/oiseaux/1289.html) its the prow of the mandarin, I climbed mandarin with big pinch right, cant do it without that not flexable
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 11, 2009, 11:15:13 am
p.s. Neil, did you clap at the top of Mandarin? Bon effort mon ami


wait for this months dose  ;) ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 11, 2009, 11:21:08 am
All becomes clear! Effort anyway, that too looks top quality.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 11, 2009, 11:22:22 am
Nice Neil. Mandarin next, while you are there?

Have you bagged any/many 8s yet?

Not bagged any real 8's yet, ticked 5 of them but 2 were dynos, and 2 were really 7b+'s and the other is just crap


one day, hopefully this winter if I dont get injured.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: bobkatebob on November 11, 2009, 01:40:27 pm

Not bagged any real 8's yet


I said you would, and you will.

As for manderine  :great: 

(though sack whoever named it, different problem with or without the e   ??? )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2009, 02:06:10 pm

one day, hopefully this winter if I dont get injured.....

It will happen, oh yes, it will happen.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 11, 2009, 09:45:26 pm
I did a nice V4 the other week at Hepburn, hardest boulder problem I've done for a while, and better yet I did it with decent footwork which is a rarity for me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 11, 2009, 09:46:56 pm
nice one mate, always good to climb in style  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 11, 2009, 09:50:45 pm
Might not be such a rarity if you took your fucking socks off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 11, 2009, 09:53:10 pm
Did socks with climbing shoes cause DVT?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 12, 2009, 09:54:03 am
More style than Duncan Disorderly too who sketched up it like Rolf Harris on speed despite being considerably less injured than me  ;)

And...

Screw you sock haters!!! Did you know that using very thin socks I can actually get tighter shoes on than with my bare (sticky) feet?? Right. Balls to you all.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on November 12, 2009, 10:18:05 am
I was wearing socks in my boots when I did Mandarine. :) Can my medal have a nice hummingbird on it please.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 12, 2009, 10:41:11 am
I was wearing socks in my boots when I did Mandarine. :) Can my medal have a nice hummingbird on it please.

Quote
The Hummingbird Medal - gold, silver and bronze - is limited to fifteen (15) recipients each year, though the number may be less.  It is awarded to persons in the private or public sector, who have rendered loyal and devoted service in their respective fields, for the benefit or prestige of the community, or Trinidad and Tobago.  It is also awarded for gallantry or other outstanding humane action.

doesn't mention wearing socks
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2009, 10:59:18 am
bare (sticky) feet

Are you a gecko?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on November 12, 2009, 11:05:43 am
Quote
It is awarded to persons ... who have rendered loyal and devoted service in their respective fields...

I have rendered loyal and devoted service in my respective field of wearing socks in rock shoes ever since I stopped wearing ridiculously tight lazers in the mid to late 90's.

I'm not sure what I have done for Trinidad and Tobago though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 20, 2009, 08:32:24 am
Off to Font on Wednesday and from a dire forecast last week its getting better and better! YYFY!  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 20, 2009, 08:37:59 am
Nice one, you can top up the TanTM whilst you crush  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 20, 2009, 08:43:09 am
Nice one, you can top up the TanTM whilst you crush  8)

 :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 20, 2009, 08:52:28 am
Off to Font on Wednesday and from a dire forecast last week its getting better and better! YYFY!  :bounce:


the forcast might have been dire, but the conditions were great, next week looks shit, sorry adam
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 20, 2009, 08:18:49 pm
Off to Font on Wednesday and from a dire forecast last week its getting better and better! YYFY!  :bounce:


the forcast might have been dire, but the conditions were great, next week looks shit, sorry adam

Not according to Accuweather? How can cloudy and 9 degrees be shit?  :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 20, 2009, 08:23:48 pm
 :)


did you miss the bit that says 65kph wind with rain, but dont worry there is always somewhere to climb
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 20, 2009, 08:25:58 pm
:)


did you miss the bit that says 65kph wind with rain, but dont worry there is always somewhere to climb

Yeah i guess we must be looking at different forecasts...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 20, 2009, 08:28:18 pm
hopefully, should be alright by the time you get here, ther is a big storm coming in tomorow night for a couple of days, hopefully this will clear things up a bit for the temps to drop, its been hitting 20 degrees this week
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 20, 2009, 08:30:15 pm
hopefully, should be alright by the time you get here,

'shit' to 'should be alright' in a few posts, can you do the weather forecast for the UK too... At this rate Unc will be walking to font!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 20, 2009, 08:46:52 pm
 :P

you giving him a lift then?, take your time, the longer he stays in england, the less food he eats at my house
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on November 21, 2009, 12:23:50 pm
I took full advantage of a break in the rain and dashed up the Roaches straight from work last night at 18:30 to send a problem thats had the better of me for a few weeks now.
So with the bright lights of Leek and my headtorch to guide me I sent 'Too Drunk' AKA 'Ollie's Roof'  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 21, 2009, 01:43:11 pm
Off to Font on Wednesday and from a dire forecast last week its getting better and better! YYFY!  :bounce:


next week looks shit, sorry adam

Now it looks shit! Hope it changes again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 23, 2009, 09:33:31 am
General rule of thumb for font weather: If Neil says it'll be shit, it'll either be really nice, ok, could be better, or shit. Is your glass half empty Neil?  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 23, 2009, 01:22:15 pm
General rule of thumb for font weather: If Neil says it'll be shit, it'll either be really nice, ok, could be better, or shit. Is your glass half empty Neil?  :P

if I say its shit, everyday is a bonus when its dry

according to the forcast today its rain rain rain all day, but so far nothing, bone dry and windy and cold
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 23, 2009, 01:25:32 pm
General rule of thumb for font weather: If Neil says it'll be shit, it'll either be really nice, ok, could be better, or shit. Is your glass half empty Neil?  :P

if I say its shit, everyday is a bonus when its dry

according to the forcast today its rain rain rain all day, but so far nothing, bone dry and windy and cold

We are bailing as we don't want to risk it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on November 23, 2009, 01:36:52 pm
Fancy going to Spain sausage? You'll have to pay for me though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 23, 2009, 01:38:58 pm
Fancy going to Spain sausage? You'll have to pay for me though

Looking at going somewhere for 3 weeks or so over Xmas and New Year... More bouldering though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 23, 2009, 06:19:09 pm
General rule of thumb for font weather: If Neil says it'll be shit, it'll either be really nice, ok, could be better, or shit. Is your glass half empty Neil?  :P

if I say its shit, everyday is a bonus when its dry

according to the forcast today its rain rain rain all day, but so far nothing, bone dry and windy and cold

We are bailing as we don't want to risk it.


might be wise, but on a plus side, the winds are really strong, we were out yesturday, showers all day, but the rock dries in seconds with the wind, we got a few things done in btween the showers, same today, and tomorow the weather looks mint, but then getting nasty again
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on November 24, 2009, 12:13:02 pm
Just booked the Gite for the 2010 Font trip, a way off yet, but can't wait! YYFY!  :bounce:

Just need to compile a list of aims now... :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 24, 2009, 12:19:28 pm
When you going Ginns?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on November 24, 2009, 12:40:06 pm
Probably the same time as every other englishman, Easter (4-11 April), constrained by school hols... are you likely to be exhibiting your Font crushing prowess any time around then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 24, 2009, 12:50:16 pm
I'm there with GCW and a supporting casts of several the same week. Bring your big guns.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on November 24, 2009, 01:08:19 pm
yes yes I expect some big numbers to be going down from yourself then Mr at work! :bounce:

nice one  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on November 24, 2009, 01:11:30 pm
whereabouts are you going to be based?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 24, 2009, 01:52:01 pm
What's the forecast for Easter '10 like Neil?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 24, 2009, 04:03:47 pm
What's the forecast for Easter '10 like Neil?

shit  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on November 28, 2009, 05:55:48 pm
Did tumbleweed today at the mighty mighty tor. First 8A if it's 8A, but then it probably isn't with the host of knee, heel and toe faggotry I resorted to. Still, possibly the hardest bit of climbing I've done so  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on November 28, 2009, 07:30:29 pm
Is that the 7c+ that Adam and Ted flashed?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on November 28, 2009, 07:43:03 pm
Was that a putdown or just tactless?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Serpico on November 28, 2009, 07:54:52 pm
Is that the 7c+ that Adam and Ted flashed?

No that's the route above it, Tumbleweed is a long Bloc link the reverses part of Weedkiller.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on November 28, 2009, 09:02:40 pm
You're thinking of 'the green alternative'.. Tumbleweed is r-man's recent link of the sit start to the problem right of Ben's roof, but instead of going to the chimes jug carry on along/down perverse reverse and finish up Basher's (it's all in the peak lime additions thread, Robin's got a video on vimeo too). All totally absurd, but fun moves and something to do whilst staminaband's wet and I don't fancy putting a harness on.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Serpico on November 28, 2009, 09:23:38 pm
Nice work BTW. Seems like most of UKB was clustered round that little bit of dry rock today.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on November 28, 2009, 10:01:12 pm
and I don't fancy putting a harness on.

Your going to have to tomorrow. See you in the morning  :wave:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on November 29, 2009, 01:22:14 pm
Nice one Alex
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on December 03, 2009, 10:50:34 am
 Managed to do the Thing yesterday, something I've wanted to do ever since seeing One Summer. YYFY.

 I noticed a crack behind the left foothold though, and it looked like water was getting in. NNFN.

 On another note, had anyone any idea what the fuck was going on with the River Wye? For those not in the know it was akin to cream of tomato soup in colour from Buxton to at least Millers Dale - I was on the bus.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benpritch on December 03, 2009, 11:18:34 am
Managed to do the Thing yesterday.

good effort. what else is dry?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on December 03, 2009, 11:23:23 am
Sweet F.A. buddy. I dried out the Thing and it stayed dry so it could just be run off, and the Pinch looked clammy rather than wet. The Hulk was drenched. But the ground directly underneath most of the problems was dry so, as I said, it could all just be run-off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benpritch on December 03, 2009, 11:28:04 am
amazing effort then! was getting keen but it sounds minging.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on December 03, 2009, 11:31:15 am
I dunno man, after the sloper got some towel action it almost felt sticky!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 06, 2009, 12:06:52 am
Two hour session at Awesome in Stockport this afternoon with no elbow pain then straight to Eastlands to watch City dominate and do Chelsea 2-1.  YYFY best day I've had since the Summer.. Well psyched.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 06, 2009, 08:02:27 pm
i know it's not bouldering but stupid training, but it's important for me!
in the pursuit of 1-5-8 with the british spacings, today i managed to stick 1-6 leading with both arms!!!
i'm very happy because 1-6 on our campus board is 10 cm longer than 1-5 british, so i'm on a good path, should be able to stick 1-5 and then try and pull on it to get the 8 which is a fucking long way up dammit. can't wait to mount the new rung at the "real" 5!!!
i am sure nothing of what i just said makes sense to anyone of you all.
sorry.
 :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 06, 2009, 08:07:06 pm
I have just started campussing in a bid to get strong for 2010 Nibs, I share in your psyche for minor feats of strength! Good effort beast. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on December 06, 2009, 08:26:13 pm
Good effort Lore, keep up the good work. When are you heading over to our fair shores again?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 06, 2009, 09:39:30 pm
Good effort Lore, keep up the good work. When are you heading over to our fair shores again?
never soon enough my friend, never soon enough.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 09, 2009, 08:28:57 pm
i mounted the "real" rung n° 5. 1-5-8 still eluded me but i was close, that being at the end of the session it seems promising.
yyfy still on hold anyway, but not a nnfn fo' sho'.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on December 10, 2009, 10:36:00 pm
Ok, it's not a bouldering/chuffing YYFY, but I'm proud to announce the impending arrival of  offspring 2.0. This does mean that I've got to tick an 8a, 2 8a+'s and and 8b by next June, but it's a target I'm happy to live with  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on December 10, 2009, 10:46:58 pm
Shit, I'll never manage that in 3 weeks
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on December 11, 2009, 10:41:10 am
Shit, I'll never manage that in 3 weeks

Yeh font grades for you too Jim!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 14, 2009, 10:23:39 am
Demon Wall Roof laid to rest. A long time to figure out the method that I could do it with. Good conditions on Sunday. Went after a few goes with the final method.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 14, 2009, 11:02:30 am
Demon Wall Roof laid to rest. A long time to figure out the method that I could do it with. Good conditions on Sunday. Went after a few goes with the final method.

Good effort Will  :) (it was my nemesis of 2009!) how did it finally go?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on December 14, 2009, 12:08:26 pm
Demon Wall Roof laid to rest. A long time to figure out the method that I could do it with.

What did you just do a new problem and not immediately declare it easy?! ;) 

Congratulations, a good tick at the crag that just keeps giving, and harder then Juju club and Blockbuster, according to one frustrated boulderer from the wrong side of the Pennines who was there yesterday!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 14, 2009, 12:28:02 pm
RH to jug in roof. LF to lip. LF on small polished smeary thing on starting block (the higher of the two footholds). RF toe in the big pocket thing at the back. Scissor them legs (ta, TommyTwoTone  :)). RH to lip. LH to high crimp. RH to high crimp. Sort foot out into the jug in roof (found this to be the hardest bit. Got a bit of an inflexible leg since last December). Up to the jug in the break cutting loose with everything else on the way. Finish.

Then raz up 3 chockstones chimney. Sqeal with excitement on the way down, trip over and look a dick in front of all the other climbers.

I tried every other way than this extensivley and this is the only way I could get to work for me. Seriously. EVERY other way.



Benchmark 6b?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on December 14, 2009, 01:11:02 pm
Then raz up 3 chockstones chimney. Sqeal with excitement on the way down, trip over and look a dick in front of all the other climbers.

I was one of the guys on Si's Arete when you slipped, looked like it was going to be nasty for a moment.  Good effort, you looked pretty pleased.

I had my own YYFY moment too, flashed 7a for the first time.  I knew Patta's Arete would suit a stumpy with a crimp fetish when I saw it and after staring it down for a while managed to get it first go.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on December 14, 2009, 01:15:26 pm
Skills, Ian. Thats a fine progression.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 14, 2009, 02:11:18 pm
Good effort. We had a quick look at Patta's but couldn't really suss it. Handholds all look fine but the footholds cause serious issue.

High heel on the starting holds as soon as you can?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 14, 2009, 02:14:39 pm
Good effort Will.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on December 14, 2009, 02:23:13 pm
you don't need footholds, pattas is easy, just watch the block underneath if you fall, it looks like you could easily tool yourself on it
Patta's Arete - Almscliff (http://www.vimeo.com/2857091)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 14, 2009, 02:33:32 pm
They looked strong on that. I'll give it a go like that, ta.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on December 14, 2009, 02:36:36 pm
I always thought you were meant to start with your hands on the slab to the right, as well as your feet?  Makes it a bit harder to campus ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on December 14, 2009, 02:44:32 pm
Good effort. We had a quick look at Patta's but couldn't really suss it. Handholds all look fine but the footholds cause serious issue.

High heel on the starting holds as soon as you can?

From the crimp I snatched up to the lowest holds on the arete, feet not doing much, then put a heel on the crimp.  But I'm short and it suited me that way, my taller friends were a bit bunched trying it that way.

Met moose there too yesterday and he warned about that block too.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on December 14, 2009, 02:45:53 pm
I think in the guide it says start from the crimps although peoples views are mixed, I don't think it adds anything to the climbing starting from the slab, both ways felt just as easy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 14, 2009, 02:54:38 pm
Will, thats exactly the way I did it (fellow lankster) matching the crimp on the face was the part that made it much easier for me..

I've tried Patta's 3 or 4 times and never get off the deck. Its possibly because I'm shit at campus moves and those long legs just seem to get in the way. I've tried throwing a heel up and that all felt wrong - so decided to give it up until I'm stronger!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on December 14, 2009, 02:55:50 pm
Quote from: The Guide
The excellent blunt arete, start from the crimps on the lip or (better) from the slab down on the right.

both ways felt just as easy

Because you're a beast!

I use my heel on the first crimps until I've got the good holds about half way up the arete then swing my left foot onto the hold down and left that Jim uses to reach the slopey break.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 14, 2009, 10:05:46 pm
thats a boulder problem? i thought it was just jims way of easily walking round the side
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on December 14, 2009, 10:23:01 pm
If you start where Jim does it's piss.
If you start down right on the slab you are forced to use the heel, and it's 7a.  And not very pleasant.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 15, 2009, 10:26:14 pm
YYFY (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2009/12/giddy-at-gairloch-and-at-ardmair.html), finally got away for some nice Scottish trad climbing in great winter sun conditions. Really chuffed to do some good chuffing after a good few months choading around. Hope to have a few more weekends like that this winter  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 16, 2009, 11:37:44 am
Welcome to a new world. There is so much great rock in the Gairloch area. Check out the stuff around Gruinard bay too, and the Stone Valley crags. And Loch Tollaidh. etc
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on December 16, 2009, 12:19:58 pm
Welcome to a new world. There is so much great rock in the Gairloch area. Check out the stuff around Gruinard bay too, and the Stone Valley crags. And Loch Tollaidh. etc

Your recommendation for Gruinard Bay is about 5 days too late Chris...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 16, 2009, 12:36:57 pm
There's more than just one crag there. Around a couple of dozen I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on December 16, 2009, 09:56:53 pm
YYFY!

Just been out for a lamp session and crushed King Kong at Dumby, abseiling down and taking the ladders to give it a clean finally paid off!, GET IN!!

;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on December 16, 2009, 11:02:20 pm
RH to jug in roof. LF to lip. LF on small polished smeary thing on starting block (the higher of the two footholds). RF toe in the big pocket thing at the back. Scissor them legs (ta, TommyTwoTone  :)). RH to lip. LH to high crimp. RH to high crimp. Sort foot out into the jug in roof (found this to be the hardest bit. Got a bit of an inflexible leg since last December). Up to the jug in the break cutting loose with everything else on the way. Finish.

Then raz up 3 chockstones chimney. Sqeal with excitement on the way down, trip over and look a dick in front of all the other climbers.

I tried every other way than this extensivley and this is the only way I could get to work for me. Seriously. EVERY other way.



Benchmark 6b?  ;)

Sorry Will, only just seen this - nice work!

You were bloomin' close the other week, wondered how long it'd be before you got it....

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on December 16, 2009, 11:14:46 pm
very brave going down dumby after dark
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on December 16, 2009, 11:21:21 pm
very brave going down dumby after dark

It's too cold for the wee neds, all is good  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 18, 2009, 10:23:37 am
yyfy.
i will be in font from february 17th to 24th.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nizza on December 18, 2009, 10:31:16 am
yyfy.
i will be in font from february 17th to 24th.

I too will be there then Nibs, be good to meet the legend at last. (Not to  rub it in but YYFY I'm there until the end of March) Only got that past the Mrs by getting her tickets to come out and have a weekend in Paris in the middle.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 18, 2009, 11:37:43 am
oh no! after keith two years ago in font, then keith again and james in the dolomites, now another strong brit to kick my ass in font, dammit.
why you guys can't just let me climb alone?
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nizza on December 18, 2009, 11:51:41 am
Haha, the best way to stop us is to buy us cheap european booze.  The combination of Brits in Europe with cheap booze will mean we forget about the boulders and just cause trouble.   :beer2:  There is a big team going to be out there so should be good.  As a Londoner it will take me a week to get used to climbing on Rock again, you'll be gone by then so no worries ; )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 19, 2009, 06:57:17 pm
YYFY: I'm actually going out to a pub. Admittedly I have chosen the 2nd busiest night of the year to head into Manc, but never the less, I am actually going for a drink!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on December 20, 2009, 10:14:10 pm
shouldnt you ring your sponsor first?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 21, 2009, 09:41:54 am
I should have rung my physio first. 3 hours sitting down in a pub pushed my back from painful to utterly fucked. At least it hasn't ended up sunny and cold outsi, oh. Bollocks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on December 21, 2009, 05:57:53 pm
Ended a long seige on Halfway House in cave today, very long seige!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on December 21, 2009, 06:01:43 pm
nice one darling
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nizza on December 21, 2009, 06:19:23 pm
Effort mate, still on the Green Tea I hope  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on December 21, 2009, 06:22:15 pm
Effort! :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on December 21, 2009, 06:24:24 pm
Effort mate, still on the Green Tea I hope  ;)

one cup a morning without fail!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on December 21, 2009, 08:01:19 pm
Ended a long seige on Halfway House in cave today, very long seige!

What's halfway house?  :-[ Well done though, sounds like you need to give me a tour.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on December 21, 2009, 08:18:49 pm
Effort mate, still on the Green Tea I hope  ;)

one cup a morning without fail!

Why the green tea? is it a secret sauce of power :-\??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on December 21, 2009, 08:22:11 pm
What's halfway house?  :-[ Well done though, sounds like you need to give me a tour.

Its Trigger Cut from a lower start

Why the green tea? is it a secret sauce of power :-\??

Sure is, Ondra swears by it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 21, 2009, 08:36:56 pm
YYFY... I've finished work until 4th January! Only had four days off since June and I was ill for two of them so need a rest...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: youngy on December 21, 2009, 08:38:03 pm
Good effort 2day on that chris
looked solid   :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 21, 2009, 08:48:36 pm
I had a cup of green tea every day last week. Got rid of my gay flu and I climbed F6c+ at the wall on Friday. Obviously a winning formula.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on December 21, 2009, 11:52:17 pm
Quote from: Doylo link=topic=8101.msg234954#msg234954
one cup a morning without fail!
[/quote

ah so its the placebo effect then  ;) (I'm pretty sure you need to drink a fair bit per day to have feel any effect on your metabolism). Effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nizza on December 22, 2009, 07:48:30 am
Grean tea is the middle class version of tinned spinach, I reccomend 7 - 10 cups a day for raw crushing power (although a biscuit with each of these will clearly counteract the effect)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on December 22, 2009, 10:13:52 am
green tea with lemon- even better
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on December 22, 2009, 10:27:25 am
green tea with lemon- even better

Fucking needs to be. It's rank on it's own. I'm a peppermint man myself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 22, 2009, 10:39:48 am
www.teapigs.com (http://www.teapigs.com) fine teas via the interweb. Popcorn Green Tea and the Chilli Chai are particularly good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on December 22, 2009, 11:10:54 am
I've had some of their peppermint in the past actually. tres bon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on December 23, 2009, 10:51:24 pm
I finally went to The Cave and did a proper problem. Ok, it's a piddling 7A+, but it's a start  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 23, 2009, 11:03:10 pm
A slippery slope Andy!  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on December 23, 2009, 11:06:05 pm
A slippery slope Andy!  ;)

Slippery being the operative word  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on December 24, 2009, 01:03:23 pm
I finally went to The Cave and did a proper problem. Ok, it's a piddling 7A+, but it's a start  :dance1:

Hard 7a+ too!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 30, 2009, 03:23:23 pm
i think this is worth posting here.
i have been three days in cresciano with some good friends, and I did very very good!!!
i am so fucking happy.
YES YES FUCKING YES!!!
YES YES FUCKING YES!!!
share my joy you all!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on December 30, 2009, 04:11:05 pm
i think this is worth posting here.
i have been three days in cresciano with some good friends, and I did very very good!!!
i am so fucking happy.
YES YES FUCKING YES!!!
YES YES FUCKING YES!!!
share my joy you all!!!

 :thumbsup::great: :thumbsup: :great: :thumbsup:
good for you Nibs - shame it's unmittingly damp here in the uk  :furious: :'( :furious:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nizza on December 30, 2009, 10:55:07 pm
i think this is worth posting here.
i have been three days in cresciano with some good friends, and I did very very good!!!
i am so fucking happy.
YES YES FUCKING YES!!!
YES YES FUCKING YES!!!
share my joy you all!!!


Great effort Nibs! Just read your blog, top stuff!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sircumfrins on January 02, 2010, 10:43:06 pm
 ;D ;D ;D

I repeated Guy Fawkes today!!! Get in!

So stoked!!!

 ;D ;D ;D

Chris
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 07, 2010, 03:45:21 pm
 ;D
Managed to get out bouldering today - first time on rock for probably three weeks - felt great..
Went to a very snowy Spofforth - that was in great condition and all the problems on the main boulder were snow free... Managed to do a 6b (I think its a 6b+  :) ) ss to the arete that i was no where near last time I visited - so a great start to 2010! -4 and 8" of snow! I left when I started to stop feeling my feet! Snow under a bouldering mat really works well as extra cushioning!!

(http://img115.yfrog.com/img115/56/agz.jpg)

Parking was OK - the main road was clear and the lay by was snow covered but importantly pointed downhill, so even anti-snowplough BMW's could get out!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 07, 2010, 05:56:27 pm
YYFY had a great day up on Kinder climbing a frozen Downfall  :thumbsup:

Made getting up at 5:30am worth while  :)


And I got to try out the boots I bought off dave last night, worked perfectly (although I really need to get a piar of gaiters that fit over them!).

Gorgeous up there, lots of snow sculpted by the wind (albeit a little too deep in places!).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: El Mocho on January 07, 2010, 07:50:14 pm
YYFY had a great day up on Kinder climbing a frozen Downfall  :thumbsup:



Was that today? If so must have just missed you - I was up there but we didn't set off till about 10.30. Did the walk in from Edale and it felt a long way. Climbed the left hand line up the icicle which was rather delicate and very wet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 07, 2010, 07:55:42 pm
YYFY had a great day up on Kinder climbing a frozen Downfall  :thumbsup:



Was that today? If so must have just missed you - I was up there but we didn't set off till about 10.30. Did the walk in from Edale and it felt a long way. Climbed the left hand line up the icicle which was rather delicate and very wet.

Yep, it was indeed today, we left the top just after 13:00.

That icicle looked well dodgy, good skills getting up it  :bow:

Felt a long way coming over from the A57/Snake Pass Inn too, gave up counting how many times I lost my balance in the deep snow  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: El Mocho on January 07, 2010, 08:03:17 pm
We arrived about 1.30. The most 'fun' part of the day was wondering around on the plateau (path completely invisible under the snow) in big semi circles in snow up to our chest. Would have been better starting earlier but had child to drop at pre school. Managed to forget both map and head tourch so we enjoyed running back out again to beat the dark.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 07, 2010, 08:20:30 pm
Navigation sounds like fun!  I was up to my waist quite a few times, damn awkward getting out.

Glad you got back safely, navigating up there with all the snow is a nightmare (we had map and compass to fall back on thankfully).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on January 11, 2010, 01:47:20 am
Ok it ain't no 7A, and it no doubt sounds pathetic compared to what a lot of you more experienced folk here are doing, but yes yes fucking yes I did a decent V1 problem today, really enjoyed it, along with improvements in my technique on the traversing wall, and getting my first pair of proper shoes, a pair of Scarpa Force, all in all its been a productive fun day :)
Going to try and make twice a week attendance a regular thing and step up to V3's/V4's by my birthday (May), fingers crossed!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on January 11, 2010, 01:49:40 am
Also my girlfriend actually suggested today, that we mount a fingerboard to the side of the house!
Awesomeness! I do feel like such a lucky guy sometimes, and i'm so glad that we can share things like this :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 11, 2010, 11:22:56 pm
Buzzin', well done. If you're keen to improve and enjoying it it will just happen  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on January 13, 2010, 03:05:38 pm
Seeing as there seems little chance of getting any outside Yes Yes F*cking yes action in the near future, i thought i would post...

YYFY just booked flights to S Africa this summer!!!!!!!!! Rocklands here we come  ;D

Will post on the destinations thread nearer the time for recommendations etc.

 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on January 13, 2010, 03:14:10 pm
Nice one! I thought about suggesting it to her ladyship after watching progression, but I need a sound business case which generally includes a minimum of 4 star accomodation. Is that a possibility?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 13, 2010, 03:26:26 pm
Nice one! I thought about suggesting it to her ladyship after watching progression, but I need a sound business case which generally includes a minimum of 4 star accomodation. Is that a possibility?

Camp out wild without a tent and you'll have billions of stars to view from your "accommodation".  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on January 13, 2010, 03:32:25 pm
Nice one! I thought about suggesting it to her ladyship after watching progression, but I need a sound business case which generally includes a minimum of 4 star accomodation. Is that a possibility?

Camp out wild without a tent and you'll have billions of stars to view from your "accommodation".  :P

I'd definitely be seeing stars if there was no hotel booked!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on January 13, 2010, 05:06:08 pm
Non bouldering YYFY but certainly high calibre.

Booked a round the world flight ticket the other day. Me and the better half fly out to Beijing on the 14th June. The countdown has started. The itinerary briefly comprises of: China, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Bolivia, Peru and Brazil.

I'll be taking a pair of rock shoes as my luxury item.  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: youngy on January 13, 2010, 07:57:26 pm
YYFY went the cave today an did Clever Beaver
woooooooo first 7a+  ;D :thumbsup:
one of my goals for the year done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on January 13, 2010, 08:03:09 pm
Effort beast!
Nice one Mark, it's definately time to stop fannying around and get Pillar Start done  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 13, 2010, 08:05:50 pm
Joining in the holiday-style YYFY, I finally got someone to go climbing with in Tenerife and it's all booked for the end of next week - flights, apartment, car hire, all for under £300 each. Okay I'll probably spend that much again on Chorizo but hey... :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 13, 2010, 09:57:50 pm
Nice one! I thought about suggesting it to her ladyship after watching progression, but I need a sound business case which generally includes a minimum of 4 star accomodation. Is that a possibility?

There are some gorgeous s/c chalets on the farm just the other side of Rocklands (can't remember name) . We got the basic one which was still very nice, but the upmarket one looked amazing. And you can stay in 4 star luxury in numerous hotels in CT.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on January 14, 2010, 07:05:56 am
Is that the McLocal option then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2010, 08:17:01 am
I have no idea what you are on about.

De Pakhuys is where we stayed

http://www.rocklandsboulders.com/accommodation (http://www.rocklandsboulders.com/accommodation)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Iesu on January 18, 2010, 11:08:24 am
BOT

had a little piece of YYFY yesterday (literally, it was Si's arete), only slightly put in the shadow by a buddy doing her "three projects for the year" at the cliff in one afternoon....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 18, 2010, 12:15:34 pm
YES YES FUCKING YES
yesterday when i was trying one of tadej slabe's routes, his wife exclaimed "lorenzo, you have iron in your arms!"
this alone was worth the trip!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on January 18, 2010, 12:20:03 pm
Rich Crouch finally did Popcorn Party down at Porth Ysgo yesterday.  It has been a four year struggle for the lad and the final ascent was a nailbiter but he hung on in there and just about got up it.  Made up for him.  I think he'll go far. 

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on January 18, 2010, 12:27:26 pm
Highlight of his career probably too! Well done slacker.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on January 18, 2010, 01:13:59 pm
I've seen him look steadier on 7c's.  What a punter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on January 18, 2010, 01:20:10 pm
I've seen him look steadier on 7c's.  What a punter.

Dave would flash that, piss.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: meatball on January 18, 2010, 02:11:20 pm
I've seen him look steadier on 7c's.  What a punter.

Dave would flash that, piss.

Tried ages ago, got shut down  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on January 18, 2010, 02:18:43 pm
Tried ages ago, got shut down  :P

Yeah, too technical.   ;) 

Oh yeah, and aesthetic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 19, 2010, 07:48:50 pm
Dave would pick up that shit painful scrittly boulder and hurl it across the Irish Sea before flexing a 'cep and having a chong  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: meatball on January 19, 2010, 08:19:51 pm
Dave would pick up that shit painful scrittly boulder and hurl it across the Irish Sea whilst flexing a 'cep and having a chong  ;)

 :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on January 20, 2010, 07:49:41 am
Just 'cos you two got your pale arses kicked by that 7a, no need to get bitter about it.  It took me a fair few minutes to do it too you know.    ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on January 20, 2010, 09:14:59 am
YYFY! Heading to the porte du soleil tomorrow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2010, 09:22:47 am
Which bit you based at?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on January 20, 2010, 10:15:36 am
Les Gets. The report today says:

“Skiing doesn't get much better than this! A foot of snow fell over the weekend, with more snow forecast for Wednesday. Clear blue skies and great skiing with empty slopes greets anyone lucky enough to be on holiday!”

Check it:

http://www.lesgets.com/en/webcams/index.html (http://www.lesgets.com/en/webcams/index.html)

Jackpot!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 20, 2010, 02:46:29 pm
ok, i know i'm getting all too excited about my slovenian weekend, but this thread is for YYFY moments so here you go: i received this email from slabe this morning "lorenzo you were climbing so good on sanjski par, that now you have to finish it!"
8-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 20, 2010, 03:19:17 pm
BB, I have PMed you. I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jfw on January 23, 2010, 04:59:24 pm
went to mother cap and did conan the librarian (even though it was a bit damp!)

YYFY!!!

thanks to gus, gib and minipickles getting cold while i had just one more last last go
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 23, 2010, 08:42:26 pm
nice one jo.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jfw on January 23, 2010, 10:29:47 pm
thanks jim  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hairich on January 24, 2010, 09:37:09 pm
me and the wife are back together.amazing 20 miler with stom.watched progression for first time thanks to ed robinson.bubba banned a fuckwit.what a sunday YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on January 26, 2010, 08:37:57 am
Had my first campus session last night since pulley carnage at the end of November  :dance1:

Did a 1-3-5  ;D (on medium rungs mind)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on January 26, 2010, 08:34:32 pm
Why hasn't the Crouch posted yet  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: meatball on January 26, 2010, 09:02:45 pm
Why hasn't the Crouch posted yet  :-\
Because he is afraid about bein heckled about bein merseysides strongest climber again  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 26, 2010, 09:20:21 pm
because it was more of a relief at doing an annoyingly knacky last move after pissing the rest of it for months  :spank:. May be a yyfy if I can do it from the lowest start  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 26, 2010, 09:33:30 pm
because it was more of a relief at doing an annoyingly knacky last move after pissing the rest of it for months

That sounds kinda familiar :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on January 26, 2010, 11:24:29 pm
Good work Rich.  Now you can start planning your trip down to Dinas Rock to repeat The Riot.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: wintermute on January 27, 2010, 02:56:05 pm
Good work Rich.  Now you can start planning your trip down to Dinas Rock to repeat The Riot.

Bit of a hi-jack..... whats Dinas rock like at the moment? Is it dry or does Kenelgarth wall seep over the winter?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on January 27, 2010, 06:55:14 pm
did my first 7A in the forest today, get in. And it looks like we are gonna get 5 perfect days out of 8 YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on January 27, 2010, 07:00:05 pm
did my first 7A in the forest today, get in.

Nice. Always a good milestone.

Which one did you do?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on January 27, 2010, 07:05:56 pm
It was Bizarre, Bizarre, the arete to the left of Karma.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave k on January 27, 2010, 07:26:31 pm
Effort - I bet you boys had a play on the start holds of Karma! Bitrhday Boy should have a pop at Hale Bopp- put his lank to good use.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on January 27, 2010, 07:33:20 pm
Its a double YYFY. Just found out, after consulting the guide, that i crushed 2 7As today 8).
Cheers Dave, Tom did well today, he did Rataplat 7B. Its easy this font buisness :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on January 28, 2010, 04:45:51 pm
Good work Rich.  Now you can start planning your trip down to Dinas Rock to repeat The Riot.

Bit of a hi-jack..... whats Dinas rock like at the moment? Is it dry or does Kenelgarth wall seep over the winter?

Dinas has been wet over the last couple of months but seems to be climbable in patches at the moment.  I haven't been myself recently due to injury but some friends are due there soon so will PM an update.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 28, 2010, 04:55:20 pm
Cheers Kev. Spoke to Liam and said I'd have to try and get there with O at some point this year! Want to make sure I'm strong enough to tick the Riot and Fat Cat Roof like before booking any holidays  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 29, 2010, 02:46:11 am
It was Bizarre, Bizarre, the arete to the left of Karma.

the one where you have to avoid the crack thing about 6 inches away from the arete. Not the best Font has to offer but nice one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 29, 2010, 05:14:37 pm
Just finished my last tax return at work. A minor YYFY as I still have four or five to do this weekend for my own clients but it's halfway there.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on January 29, 2010, 05:14:58 pm
yeah that's the one. Didint feel artificial not using the crack though, just meant you don't reach to far round the arete. It certainly ain't the best font has to offer,  i did Pause Cafe Direct, later in the day, which was much better.  Got any recommendations for best 7A/B at Isatis?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 29, 2010, 05:30:07 pm
El Poussah and El Poussif are both next to each other and well worth getting on. Also Angle Ben's just down the hill is amazing and always shuts me down  :furious:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on January 29, 2010, 05:38:37 pm
El Poussah was on the list, gets me a BTT tick as well ::). Angle Ben's looks superb, not sure how i missed it when i was there. cheers Richie
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on January 29, 2010, 05:40:14 pm
yeah that's the one. Didint feel artificial not using the crack though, just meant you don't reach to far round the arete. It certainly ain't the best font has to offer,  i did Pause Cafe Direct, later in the day, which was much better.  Got any recommendations for best 7A/B at Isatis?

As well as the obvious stuff like Pousah, Pousif, Memmel, Iceberg exit, angle bens etc, if you like little sit starts there is a good circuit of sitters at the back of the area, that are all amenable 7a's with some nice moves and features such as Abdolobotomy, De Brevitate Vitae and Plastikman. I personally think that some of the best problems in this area are over the back at Haute Plaines. Stuff such as Sirplum de Coquile (sp?), Mur Du Lombard and Lapin ou Canard. These are in a beautiful, usually quiet area too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 29, 2010, 05:44:10 pm
if you've done 2 7a's in font don't try what ritchie says. la memel is very good as is iceberg and plastikman, the others are but feel loads harder than other stuff. andy has replied while i was writing this, also good ideas
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 29, 2010, 05:50:07 pm
Crushed E7 like it was nothing today.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on January 29, 2010, 05:54:37 pm
Good effort, which one?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 29, 2010, 05:56:49 pm
oh my arms hurt my back hurts and i crush E7's like they were nothing. beast. get the top move of careless done with all the snow there. fonts as much use as tits on a bull, one day of good weather in 2 wks :wall:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 29, 2010, 06:27:50 pm
The one with 15 feet of snow under it :lol:

Unfortunately there's no snow under Careless Lee. Weather has been great here this week, conditions very good, and looking very good for the next few days too. How's the Scarpa sticker working out for you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on January 29, 2010, 06:38:50 pm
Careless Lee. That has a ring to it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 29, 2010, 11:24:59 pm
Crushed E7 like it was nothing today.

E5?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on January 29, 2010, 11:27:16 pm
Crushed E7 like it was nothing today.

E5?

V4/V5
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on January 29, 2010, 11:44:30 pm
The one with 15 feet of snow under it :lol:

If it's the one I think, then it sounds like everyone and their dog did it today. Even me!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 30, 2010, 08:56:34 am
no need for scarpa stickers when you don't go l'angle parfait or super prestat ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jonjon on January 31, 2010, 06:29:44 pm
 Crush mode engaged.  ;D 4 routes today, 20 E points, one was HVS, actually the scariest one of the lot, can someone build me a proper snow platform under it please?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 31, 2010, 08:29:14 pm
Quote
when you don't go l'angle parfait or super prestat

Dame Jouanne is almost fair enough, but you're saying you can't do any of the 7th grade problems at Cuvier? Christ. No wonder you wore the sticker.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on February 01, 2010, 01:23:48 am
Managed to get up Rataplat on my last day in font, best problem i did all week and first 7B in the forest. Booked my accommodation for my month visit in October and planned another week trip in April because i cant wait til Oct to go back. The worlds finest forest? i think so
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 01, 2010, 09:48:22 am
Quote
when you don't go l'angle parfait or super prestat

Dame Jouanne is almost fair enough, but you're saying you can't do any of the 7th grade problems at Cuvier? Christ. No wonder you wore the sticker.
no no i'm saying it's harder for me to do new 7th grade probs at cuvier. even harder in the damp. tho you wouldn't have thought so yesterday when crush mode was engaged
edit: didn't do anything special just wanted to sound like a scouser
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 01, 2010, 05:16:50 pm
Come on now, it didn't have to be a new one, any would have counted. How's the weather out there?
Just had four of the best days' grit conditions I've ever experienced.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on February 01, 2010, 09:37:58 pm
Not quite up there with "snowballing" E7's I'm afraid, but I just stuck the 45's on my beastmaker for the first time. Max hag of a princely 15 seconds. Sadly enough, I'm stupidly happy with this extremely minor feat. Have to work up to a decent set of encores now! Roll on Fair Head season in march  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on February 02, 2010, 09:03:36 am
Legendary weekend, definitely worth a YYFY. Lots of great moments, the best for me being Don and White Wand. I think we’ll be reminiscing about the last weekend of Jan 2010 for many years to come.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on February 02, 2010, 11:20:19 am
Just had four of the best days' grit conditions I've ever experienced.

That's some short-term memory you have JB. Does it re-set itself every January? I guess hard work with a shovel can do funny things to ones perceptions.
I know you Peak boys have been going stir crazy down there though, did you mean 'best freak grit conditions' ever?
 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baloo on February 02, 2010, 01:49:13 pm

Andle Stone Wall at last! Psyched for Font a week on Sat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 02, 2010, 05:44:02 pm
Quote
That's some short-term memory you have JB. Does it re-set itself every January?

No confusion, maybe it was different in yorks. I remember only day last year which was comparably sticky, and that was only for an hour at sunset. This was cheating conditions all day, and with the sun out. Incredible.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 02, 2010, 06:45:51 pm
fantastic had 2 dry days n 2 damp afternoons in 17 days
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on February 02, 2010, 08:38:25 pm
did my first broughton 6c+ on saturday! (Yes i know it was glorious outside)
 :thumbsup:

 and tonight did my first broughton 7A (font 7C apparently).  :bounce:

Split a tip doing though however. :(


Cheers
Tim
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 02, 2010, 10:54:30 pm
beast. should be puntered for not being outside at the weekend
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: match on February 04, 2010, 12:43:19 pm
First climbing for 4 months after severing tendons + surgery, on a snowy Stanage  :)  Bumbled up some nice slabs, eased up crescent arete and shook manfully up pebble arete LH. Hurrah YYFY  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 04, 2010, 01:47:14 pm
I went to Tenerife and did loads of great routes and really enjoyed a different vibe of Euro sport climbing and reckon I was climbing at 90% of my usual standard not bad for someone who can't walk uphill and is living in the wettest city on planet Earth YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2010, 04:15:35 pm
I didn't know you lived in Seattle? or is it Atlantis?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 04, 2010, 11:26:12 pm
Tues I randomly got the urge to go climbing (a first since being back in the UK).

Wednesday I went out and played above the snow... and survived. Given the time of year I think thats a big YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: El Mocho on February 05, 2010, 12:14:39 pm
After falling off approx 15 times in a row off the 'easy' move near the top of Superbloc did the dead first go wednesday afternoon, and the move felt easy when I finally did it. (hardest bit was getting 4 pads up there on my own (I do have video evidence that I did it rather than having to take Klems word as he was licking his bollocks at the time))

Slight NNFN though yesterday as got up at 3.00am to drive to Wasdale and go up to the East buttress to try Daves new route only to get there and and find it was all melting. Lots off dripping ice around there though, bit of a freeze and it will be mint. Did a grade V which felt about VII as it was so soggy (luckily I was seconding as the slush insecurity would have given me the fear on lead)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dobbin on February 05, 2010, 01:15:51 pm
Good effort! (not regards ice climbing log)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on February 05, 2010, 01:18:18 pm
After falling off approx 15 times in a row off the 'easy' move near the top of Superbloc did the dead first go wednesday afternoon, and the move felt easy when I finally did it. (hardest bit was getting 4 pads up there on my own (I do have video evidence that I did it rather than having to take Klems word as he was licking his bollocks at the time))

Slight NNFN though yesterday as got up at 3.00am to drive to Wasdale and go up to the East buttress to try Daves new route only to get there and and find it was all melting. Lots off dripping ice around there though, bit of a freeze and it will be mint. Did a grade V which felt about VII as it was so soggy (luckily I was seconding as the slush insecurity would have given me the fear on lead)

props on mixing it up
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Brolly on February 06, 2010, 06:54:24 pm
I randomly tried to do a one armer today at the wall (for the first time in many years) and managed it.  I then tried it on a bar and did two on the left arm and two on the right.

It's 15 years or so since I could last do that!  Definately a YYFY mo for me.

Ol

PS I know this has no real bearing on climbing and unless I learn to use my feet I'll still be pants, but they make me feel better.

PPS hoping I don't wake tomorrow with re goosed elbows!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 06, 2010, 07:29:48 pm
PS I know this has no real bearing on climbing and unless I learn to use my feet I'll still be pants, but they make me feel better.

On the other hand, this ability combined with your steely little fingers will get you up a lot of hard problems



bastard



*edit*

congratulations
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on February 07, 2010, 05:33:30 pm
Not really climbing related. Although it does mean I will have time to go climbing again:

YYFY!
I finished my dissertation.  :beer2: 15,000 words and 57 pages.
It's probably all shit though.

and also a NNFN!
I have lectures again on Monday and my first one is Nuclear reactor engineering at 9:00. Heavy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on February 07, 2010, 07:49:32 pm
Took a monster lob off a boulder problem at fair head today, missed the pads, landed on a pile of big pointy rocks and didn't break my legs! In fact not so much as a scratch! Major YYFY that I still have unrestricted walking privileges  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 07, 2010, 07:57:42 pm
one of the 9 lives cashed in
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on February 07, 2010, 08:02:11 pm
Indeed, don't think i've ever fallen that far on a route before! Had to have a little talk to myself afterwards. Do not intend to repeat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 08, 2010, 02:56:07 pm
I totally ticked one of my project lines today in the mintiest minty mint conditions.

Starting jug, big easy move to pants sloper, good heel hook for right foot, marginal toe hook for left foot, match sloper, shuffle hands sideways on shit slopers for a couple of moves, take off toe hook and at the same time dyno up and left pushing off the heel hook for a good but hard to catch/hold flake hold (very cool move), all other limbs flailing wildly, match hands get feet on then finish as for an existing 7A+. Name and grade currently undecided.

Amazing, thought it was going to be a season or two's worth of siegeing but no, cold crispiness coupled with a really big pooh this morning was the recipe for crush.

And it's my birthday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 08, 2010, 02:58:25 pm
How many chimp years equate one human year?

PS Happy Birthday and good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 08, 2010, 03:01:00 pm
Happy Birthday Nik
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on February 08, 2010, 03:27:20 pm
Good effort Nik, happy veterancy too.
I told you they feel easy in the end.
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 08, 2010, 03:32:27 pm
Good effort Nik, happy veterancy too.
I told you they feel easy in the end.
 :thumbsup:

Is Nik only 40, my god he must have had a hard paper round.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2010, 03:50:38 pm
Nice one loon. Happy Birthday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 08, 2010, 04:04:52 pm
Cheers peeps.

I have now got a name:
Titus Gaukroger

A (shit) photo showing the line:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4340366465_6f290fdf7d.jpg)

And a grade:
I'm going to stick my neck out and say 8A+ (but still easier than Niks Wall :))
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 08, 2010, 04:13:54 pm
And a less shit photo showing the slopers at the start  :)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4308991026_7e1bd1f3a2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/23476714@N06/4308991026/)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 08, 2010, 04:23:15 pm
I have now got a name:
Titus Gaukroger
Why?
and where?
effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 08, 2010, 04:34:47 pm
Titus Gaukroger is the name of a gentleman who (at some point in history) rented the vicarage of the church at the bottom of the road leading to the crag, and I just liked the name.
The crag is Mytholm Steeps, which is across the valley from Heptonstall.
It has several good problems now and a couple of (very hard) obvious projects to go. Unfortunately it gets very green very quickly so whilst the problems are good (and they really are very good) it has fickle conditions. Today I was lucky to catch a breeze coming up the valley onto the rock so things felt dry and grippy. But it quite often feels a bit damp underhand even when clean.

Oh and the big obvious rock scar was there when I started trying the line, wasn't me guv.

Slackers I think that photo is a bit deceptive, I'd say the wall overhangs more than the photo suggests and the slopers are hence worse (although it is a beautiful line of slopers).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 08, 2010, 04:56:38 pm
Excellent! Those slopers look both lovely and horrible at the same time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: c.j.d. on February 08, 2010, 05:27:06 pm
 Nice one Nik - those slopers do look rather gorgeous  :agree:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on February 08, 2010, 07:31:59 pm
Effort Nik, I was going to ask on here if anyone knew anymore about this. I've only been once, in the drizzle, and spied this line but haven't been back since. I'd be keen to go back. This is pretty near where you live I'm guessing? Well done again.

 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 08, 2010, 08:16:56 pm
Yes it's only a five minute drive so worth a punt for me whatever the weather. I wouldn't want to be driving for an hour to try a specific problem here though, not because the problems aren't worth it (they are generally very high quality) but rather because of the fickle nature of the conditions and the speed with which the greenery reclaims the rock. But it's worth a call in now as the problems on those first two butresses are all pretty clean. I have also left a (very shit wobbly) ladder there to aid cleaning. It's worth having a rope for cleaning also as even after brushing various bit of detritus will fall from the plantlife above in a short time.

There is a very obvious project with the same start but heading off right along the slopey shelf which will be nails. Sadly the left to right traverse of the whole shelf is not really do-able as the start would be silly and contrived.

I've taken some pics with a view to putting together a bit of a topo so I'll make all aware if/when I do that.

Ru (or indeed anybody else) if you are keen to get up there give me a shout and I'll meet up with you if I can.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on February 08, 2010, 08:55:06 pm
Good effort nik!

On a slightly less impressive note I've just had my first pain free session since December..........only 18 training days to font  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on February 08, 2010, 09:55:22 pm
What's a pain free session?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 09, 2010, 01:37:21 am
one where you're not trying hard enough...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 09, 2010, 10:07:54 am
i am proud, very proud to report that yesterday, during a monster session, i nailed 158 with brit spacings.
it's a big big YYFY for me.
so, doing 159 is something really unbelievable!!! i got to 8 so fucking stretched, thinking about getting to 9 is absurd.
big big waddage to all 159 crushers, that's real power.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nizza on February 09, 2010, 10:42:29 am
Good effort Nibs, it gets easier with time! Done old school 1-5-9 ie 1-5-8.5 but not new school 1-5-9. That is damn hard. Got a mate who has done new school 1-5-9 up and down and up again. Proper waddage!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 09, 2010, 10:09:03 pm
Beast Lore! I have only managed 1-5-8 once on the large rungs left arm leading, can't get close right arm leading  :spank: Need to put more than 2 weeks of campus effort in every year (usually stop after 4 sessions in 2 weeks as my inner elbows get sharp pains  :thumbsdown:)

Had a minor yyfy today finally climbing Texas Hold Em an old nemesis at trowbarrow as well as that 6c groove, then the sitter to the left of vitruvian (pretty full on for your 5 V points  :-\)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 09, 2010, 10:10:58 pm
That groove sitter is worthy of 7b IMHO.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hairich on February 09, 2010, 11:45:01 pm
finally my new car gets delivered the day after i get back from font.head office are twats
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nike Air on February 10, 2010, 08:26:03 am


(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4308991026_7e1bd1f3a2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/23476714@N06/4308991026/)
Titus Gaukroger
Called in after work yesterday to have a gander, its looks very good :thumbsup:. Those slopers look and feel lush.
Nice one Nik, get up the hill and try Chabal(the big gorple prow) if you like slopers and full on involved battles of the gritstone kind.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 10, 2010, 09:09:07 am
Was it dry Jordan? Did you try anything?
Gareths Traverse is also superb (the left to right traverse of the lip of the block)

I suppose I should head up to Gorple at some point, when I'm feeling fit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 10, 2010, 09:17:15 am
Oh, those tiny knees   :boohoo:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nike Air on February 10, 2010, 12:54:13 pm
Was it dry Jordan? Did you try anything?
Gareths Traverse is also superb (the left to right traverse of the lip of the block)

I suppose I should head up to Gorple at some point, when I'm feeling fit.
Yea its was dry. I did not climb but as soon as im rehabilitated i ll be back.....

Chabal is probably up there with Queen kong sit start for the best in sustained 8a+ 5 starness!!!

Think Sutty will be bringing out a quest2 soon which should included me doing Chabal, hopefully that should get a few more folk keen. You ll need to be fit for the bloc itself but the walk is easy. A pretty much flat concrete path!!

BTW-How hard do you reckon the righthand finish will be??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 10, 2010, 04:14:44 pm
I think the right hand finish will be at least 8B, the slopers are worse and you can't use the cunning feet shenanigans. But with a bit of work who knows?? I'll certainly be trying it.

Sounds like I need to head up to Gorple.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 10, 2010, 04:23:34 pm
bit of a yyfy for me, snowballed 3 blind mice yesterday, great problem. I know its not particular hard but for some reason I've always wanted to do it and with the snowdrifts there and then being stuck at work and then the hospital for the best part of 2 weeks was really pleased to get it done while it is still a highball and not a leg breaking solo. Was shitting myself on the slab as it was wet and my legs were shaking like elvis and a big thanks to keenus who talked me up it as I was battling the voice in my head that kept saying "jump off while you still can"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 10, 2010, 04:59:24 pm
Good work Jim  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 10, 2010, 05:21:37 pm
Nice work Jimothy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on February 10, 2010, 05:22:20 pm
Nice one, Jim. I wandered over yesterday morning to do this, but the slopers on the lip were dripping wet so I bagged it. WSS was about the only thing that was dry mid morning...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on February 10, 2010, 07:22:04 pm
This probably sounds like i'm dreaming but I found an unclimbed problem at a popular peak gritstone spot :jaw:
Probably about 7A+/B. Nearly did it today, can't give anything away yet. Highball bulge with some nice powerfull moves, comfortable crimps, a perfect undercut and some lovely slopey action. I'm psyched for the possibility of a first ascent of something that is actually genuinely quality, and would probably be a fairly popular problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on February 11, 2010, 08:26:48 am
Well done Jim. I remember spotting Zaff on this way back, probably why I still haven't done it. Maybe I should've made the most of those freaky good conditions.
I'm intrigued ButterworthTom - do keep us posted.
Nike Air hey? Nice link Mr B!

On a more personal note - I too had a yyfy yesterday - Another class new problem on YG. I must have got my inspiration from veteran Nik as I also came down with post-crush illness.

 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 11, 2010, 08:46:12 am
whats the name and grade of this traverse uptown? i still see you as uptowngirl you know ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on February 11, 2010, 08:55:12 am
whats the name and grade of this traverse uptown? i still see you as uptowngirl you know ;)

I still log in as the girl you know.  ;D
I'm keeping up with the Jones' so in line with the other old man 8a+.
Why are you showing any interest in a paltry shuffle though Dense - I await your put-down with eager anticipation.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 11, 2010, 09:05:11 am
Copycat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 11, 2010, 11:40:09 am
not a put down, more i wish to know my enemy ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andymarshll on February 11, 2010, 11:52:10 pm
Did Lou Ferrino at the cave today, started working on it october last year, barely been on it the last couple of months cos of seepage and shite conditions. Back to the cave today and bagged the fucker on the second attempt, first 7C+, YYFY!!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on February 12, 2010, 08:53:32 pm
YYFY! Achieved one of my 2010 goals (which I thought was an ambitious one) last week in Misja Pec, and flashed my first F8a+. Stoked and surprised!  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on February 12, 2010, 09:27:15 pm
Nice one Dan.  :beer2: You've joined a pretty exclusive club. What did Steve Mac tick ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on February 12, 2010, 10:24:11 pm
I'll let him reveal that......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 13, 2010, 02:47:28 pm
YYFY! Achieved one of my 2010 goals (which I thought was an ambitious one) last week in Misja Pec, and flashed my first F8a+. Stoked and surprised!  :)

Nice on dan although with your form in Margalef I don't think it was that ambitious.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on February 13, 2010, 05:44:28 pm
more i wish to know my enemy ::)

You'll always be my friend Dense, no enemies on here. I'm just recovering from swine flu - it may have affected my usual fine tuned grade awareness, so lets go split like in Wales, 8a/8a+. It'll be called Marjah buzkashi. I'm sure Swanny will seek it out even if no-one else does.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 15, 2010, 12:13:03 pm
Not climbing at all, but went for a walk at Balmeadie beach yesterday, and was amused to see a 4WD spun up to the axles in a muddy field that they often dick about in. While we were there a flatbed loader was trying to get across to tow it out, but was getting stuck too, so they had to leave it. Going to need a few big jacks, a winch and some boards or some drier weather (June maybe?). Otherwise need to flag down a passing helicopter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 15, 2010, 12:17:46 pm
Ah, schadenfreude.  The old favourite   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on February 15, 2010, 12:56:34 pm
YYFY, I opened my valentine card from mrs rodma yesterday to find a printout for return flights to Paris for the weekend (actual real CDG, not Beauvais) in four weeks time.

Font here we come  :great:

Best present ever
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on February 15, 2010, 07:33:36 pm
Are you quite sure Mrs Rodma is thinking the same thing as you? Sure she's not just thinking about a holiday for two in the most romantic city in Europe?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 15, 2010, 07:37:53 pm
A weekend well spent. (http://www.disneylandparis.co.uk/)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chriss on February 16, 2010, 03:37:07 am
Should really be in one for the runners, but a YYFY moment managed to run a sub 6min road mile, did 5.48min well chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on February 16, 2010, 08:32:18 am
Are you quite sure Mrs Rodma is thinking the same thing as you? Sure she's not just thinking about a holiday for two in the most romantic city in Europe?

She's definately thinking about getting on Biceps, and definately thinking about paris if the weather lucks out (or early success on project for celebrations)  :alky:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on February 19, 2010, 02:11:02 pm
YYFECKINY

After weeks of trying i finally managed the 6c up the corner on the comp wall at t'works

highest grade bouldering i've done yet. Go on, tell me it's soft.

Also, the current alcohol-free  :ang: diet is working, and despite having just had a lunch of choc raisins and mini eggs, i'm losing a pound a week.  Bye bye lard!

Now if only i could afford a physio.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 19, 2010, 02:13:16 pm
Fucking hell if I gave up booze I reckon I could afford my own private physio on call 24/7.

Good effort on the 6C and the non-alcohol fuelled weight loss.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben87 on February 20, 2010, 12:41:48 pm
YYFY!!

Sent trackside and then strawberries yesterday, pretty quickly too. Props to the beta king I met out there.
 :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 20, 2010, 01:00:07 pm
highest grade bouldering i've done yet. Go on, tell me it's soft.
Nope it's not soft, but because it's indoors it doesn't count  :)



Props to the beta king I met out there.
 :bow:
Didn't know Lord Sloper was allowed out on Fridays??  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 20, 2010, 06:44:46 pm
YYFY!  Ascended one of the major ticks in t'Peak today....Tegness Pinnacle  :P  (and had a great day doing easy routes at Froggatt before hand).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on February 20, 2010, 07:38:44 pm
YYFY!!

Sent trackside and then strawberries yesterday, pretty quickly too. Props to the beta king I met out there.
 :bow:

If you were the guy out there yesterday afternoon with his girlfriend then it may have been me you bumped into. I think I've just spent a disproportionate amount of time climbing at the trackside boulder to be honest.

If it was me, nice to meet you and good effort on the problems.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 20, 2010, 08:51:15 pm
Ooooh look numbers...  ::)

YYFY I did my first V8 (Font 7b) today. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/02/crushing-at-cambusbarron.html) Get me.

It was actually quite hard I think. And a very good line.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 20, 2010, 09:21:10 pm
Nice one. Looks like a line worth putting in the effort for too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 20, 2010, 09:46:37 pm
I'm sure there used to be a big tree that hung over that?  Or am I so old my mind is going?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 20, 2010, 10:08:07 pm
I vote for senility, there's no sign of any stumps (although it has been patioed a bit) and I didn't see any when I visited a while back.

AndyF: socks AND fucking stockings.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 20, 2010, 10:13:52 pm
It's been at least 12 years since I've been there.  Senility it is then
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 20, 2010, 11:24:41 pm
Ooooh look numbers...  ::)

YYFY I did my first 7B today. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/02/crushing-at-cambusbarron.html) Get me.

It was actually quite hard I think. And a very good line.

Sorted that excessive use of characters and shit grading systems for you there mate.

Good effort Fiend!

I still don't get this "line" thing though. It's a nice enough looking feature but the climbing looks awkward and, at best, basic. For me, the best problems are the ones where the movement is an amazing experience. Doesn't matter if it looks like four crimps on a 45 degree wall or indeed the worst sack of shit in the world.

The experience of moving over a piece of rock (or even wood and plastic) that one thought was not possible but was somehow achieved can be a beautiful thing whether the "line" is good or not.

Maybe it's just me (and Chris Craggs) but I don't just want to climb up things cos they're there. I'm not a mountaineer and I don't want to conquer great features. I just want the feeling of crushing a crimp to stomach level and effortlessly reaching for the next one as my body instinctively cuts my feet loose and reattaches them to the holds or hold or realises there's no need without a conscious thought process troubling my brain.

That's what climbing's about for me. Not sure if that makes any sense mind and I'm certainly nowhere near achieving my wish at the moment!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 20, 2010, 11:39:04 pm
V8

(http://www.itechnews.net/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/bmw-m3-v8-engine.jpg) (http://gosublogger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/v8juice_jpg.jpg)

Well done on cracking 7b, glad to read that you had to work for it  :thumbsup:

I was pleased to get out on rock today. Cold grit and warm sunshine got me well 'thused.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben87 on February 21, 2010, 11:59:21 am

If you were the guy out there yesterday afternoon with his girlfriend then it may have been me you bumped into. I think I've just spent a disproportionate amount of time climbing at the trackside boulder to be honest.

If it was me, nice to meet you and good effort on the problems.

Yup, that was me. Did you go to the stride in the end? Send me a pm if you need someone to climb with midweek btw, student life is a wonderful thing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 21, 2010, 02:21:49 pm
...V8... Get me.

It was actually quite hard I think. And a very good line.

Sorted that excessive use of characters and shit grading systems for you there mate.


Ahh, but perhaps it was bottom end 7B+... Where's Panton when you need him? [ducks]

Good effort fiend, looks quality.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on February 21, 2010, 06:21:14 pm
YYFY!

Managed to get the 3rd ascent of Firestarter at Dumby this morning!, nearly got it in a session yesterday but had to come back this morning to finish the job!, Get in!!!!

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 22, 2010, 10:44:53 am
Ooooh look numbers...  ::)

YYFY I did my first V8 (Font 7b) today. (http://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2010/02/crushing-at-cambusbarron.html) Get me.

It was actually quite hard I think. And a very good line.

Nice tick Fiend. Vid makes it look like you climb in a Harold Lloyd style though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on February 22, 2010, 10:37:42 pm
Was chuffed on sat' as simon W ticked columns at 5 clouds.1st 8a.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on February 23, 2010, 11:24:39 am
Blitzed all the V1's at the Wall  ;D
Well apart from one overhang, and this cave/ceiling problem which tweaked my elbow when my feet slipped off, gutted but I guess its going to mean a week off of bouldering, or just doing very light V0 stuff.
I know its still pretty crap in comparison to pretty much everyone here, currently its my finger strength that is holding me back and I am working hard to improve it, I hope to do a V3/V4 by my birthday in May.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 23, 2010, 11:54:48 am
Nice one, pushing forward and crushing is never crap. :great:

If I remember correctly you're a newcomer to bouldering with a history of powerlifting/gym type stuff? If so I'd say that whilst your fingers will be relatively weak when compared to other climbers they're probably still stronger than Joe Public's. You'll most likely be lacking technique (unless you are a huge natural talent) and I'd guess you'll be carrying an excess of muscle bulk? Don't cane your fingers, focus on technique and good efficient precise body position and the fingers will come along by themselves. Crisp technique will get you up a lot more V4's than strong fingers will.

Anyway didn't mean to waffle on, have a wad for getting the YYFY vibe (and for seemingly knowing fucking everything ever about cameras)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2010, 12:58:07 pm
Was chuffed on sat' as simon W ticked columns at 5 clouds.1st 8a.

W = What, Witcher? Or should everyone know exactly who simon W is?

Is it is him, good effort Si.

Oh and James, what Nik said. Don't go beasting the fingers too early on, finger strength is slowest to develop and they are most prone to inury.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on February 23, 2010, 01:12:00 pm
It was me. Si Wilson. Cheers for blowing my trumpet for me Mark. And glad the parking situation seems to have sorted itself out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2010, 01:13:35 pm
Nice one SF. All these pseuds and pseudonyms are a bit confusing to us out of towners.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 23, 2010, 01:18:11 pm
Good effort SF.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jordysi on February 23, 2010, 01:41:33 pm
YYFY got all of the pins and the plate out on my finger last week so can start training again.... in 3 weeks... not great but cannot wait to touch rock again soon as well  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on February 23, 2010, 02:04:15 pm
Nice one, pushing forward and crushing is never crap. :great:

If I remember correctly you're a newcomer to bouldering with a history of powerlifting/gym type stuff? If so I'd say that whilst your fingers will be relatively weak when compared to other climbers they're probably still stronger than Joe Public's. You'll most likely be lacking technique (unless you are a huge natural talent) and I'd guess you'll be carrying an excess of muscle bulk? Don't cane your fingers, focus on technique and good efficient precise body position and the fingers will come along by themselves. Crisp technique will get you up a lot more V4's than strong fingers will.

Anyway didn't mean to waffle on, have a wad for getting the YYFY vibe (and for seemingly knowing fucking everything ever about cameras)

Yeah Nik I have a background in powerlifting, and thats the really damn frustrating thing is that I am generally pretty strong, very very flexible, and i've been told my technique is half decent for a beginner (although obviously still a beginner) and my grip strength is pretty good too.
Its just the strength in the tips of my fingers, for instance I can close a COC 1 gripper for 5-6 reps with no worries, and am currently working up to a 2, can do a decent amount of pull-ups etc which means on open handed stuff I don't really struggle too much at all, I even nearly managed a V2 with big Jugs oo er missus ;)
but on all these little crimping things my fingers give out before anything else, I know I have to be patient but its driving me crazy!

Cheers for the advice regardless, I think I am going to start focusing as heavily on good technique as possible on the stuff I can do for the moment :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2010, 02:10:24 pm
Yup work on technique, esp footwork. Easiest way to climb on small crimps is to be able to not actually pull on them.

Also learn to use various grips as required - Pinches, open hands, wrapping thumbs on crimps all help when actual finger strength is failing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on February 23, 2010, 02:18:23 pm
"Also learn to use various grips as required - Pinches, open hands, wrapping thumbs on crimps all help when actual finger strength is failing."

Are there any good links online that demonstrate different types of climbing grips, would be good to see if i'm missing a trick here!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dave Westlake on February 23, 2010, 03:14:06 pm
Was chuffed on sat' as simon W ticked columns at 5 clouds.1st 8a.


nice one.  What/ where is columns??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 23, 2010, 03:15:39 pm
5 clouds, roaches
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2010, 03:29:36 pm
"Also learn to use various grips as required - Pinches, open hands, wrapping thumbs on crimps all help when actual finger strength is failing."

Are there any good links online that demonstrate different types of climbing grips, would be good to see if i'm missing a trick here!

google

http://www.rock-climbing-for-life.com/rock_climbing_101.html (http://www.rock-climbing-for-life.com/rock_climbing_101.html)

or any beginner's climbing manual - getting a bit off topic here - worth a thread of it's own if you need more info.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 23, 2010, 03:38:06 pm
Yup work on technique, esp footwork. Easiest way to climb on small crimps is to be able to not actually pull on them.
Will that get you up N*k's W**l then?? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2010, 03:43:28 pm
Never climbed Nok's Wibl so can't say :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 23, 2010, 03:56:36 pm
Yup work on technique, esp footwork. Easiest way to climb on small crimps is to be able to not actually pull on crimp the fuck out of them.


AMEN!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 23, 2010, 03:59:29 pm
Yeah Nik I have a background in powerlifting, and thats the really damn frustrating thing is that I am generally pretty strong, very very flexible, and i've been told my technique is half decent for a beginner (although obviously still a beginner) and my grip strength is pretty good too.
Its just the strength in the tips of my fingers, for instance I can close a COC 1 gripper for 5-6 reps with no worries, and am currently working up to a 2, can do a decent amount of pull-ups etc which means on open handed stuff I don't really struggle too much at all, I even nearly managed a V2 with big Jugs oo er missus ;)
but on all these little crimping things my fingers give out before anything else, I know I have to be patient but its driving me crazy!

Cheers for the advice regardless, I think I am going to start focusing as heavily on good technique as possible on the stuff I can do for the moment :)
I can't remember the close force of a COC1 (125lb's?) off the top of my head but given that level of hand strength coupled with good flexibility you should (unless you are VERY heavy) get up things up to V4/5-ish pretty quickly with reasonable technique. You shouldn't really be meeting any small crimps on steep ground until V6 upwards(ish). I'm not saying this to put you down, just to point out that you seem (from a distance, having never met you) to be in pretty good physical shape as a newcomer and your biggest weakness is climbing intelligence. It's far to early to get stuck in the "I must have stronger fingers, they are my weak link" mentality, especially if you do have good flexibility which is surprisingly very rare (and often under-rated) in climbers. Befriend a good climber (not strong, but good) who can communicate clearly and listen to them, you'll be up V4 in a couple of sessions IMHO.
Good luck with you aims.

P.S. Good technique isn't doing things you can already do with style, it is working out how to do the things you can't do with the tools you already have, rather than resorting to getting new tools (i.e. stronger fingers)

P.P.S. I hope this doesn't sound negative, it's really not meant that way. Go forth and crush :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 23, 2010, 04:00:25 pm
Sorry this has all gone a little OT...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 23, 2010, 04:29:55 pm
A big YYFY for me today. Managed my first V12! Super Submarine at Longridge.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 23, 2010, 04:33:31 pm
Nice one Tanners!!!


Now get back to Denham (for your second??) :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on February 23, 2010, 05:01:45 pm
A big YYFY for me today. Managed my first V12! Super Submarine at Longridge.  ;D

Beast!
Thats some impressive stuff

I'm 16 stone btw Nik I guess that makes things a little trickier  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2010, 05:32:46 pm
Holy crapoly. how tall are you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 23, 2010, 05:44:51 pm
I feel thin!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 23, 2010, 08:25:13 pm
Quote from: JamesD link=topic=8101.msg246916#msg246916
I'm 16 stone btw Nik I guess that makes things a little trickier  ;)
[/quote

Just recite the words "John Dunne is my HERO" every waking minute and you'll be fine. On a serious note, weight is always going to be the limiting factor on your finger strength.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 23, 2010, 08:35:43 pm
Paul is right, weight is going to be limiting. However I don't think you will have reached that limit yet even with what you perceive to be "weak" fingers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dave Westlake on February 23, 2010, 10:11:27 pm
5 clouds, roaches

Cheers, but could you (or someone else) be a bit more specific?  I've done a bit of searching and looking in the guide but can't find "columns 8a".  My guess is that it might be going right from the start of Tetris?

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on February 23, 2010, 10:17:53 pm
5 clouds, roaches

Cheers, but could you (or someone else) be a bit more specific?  I've done a bit of searching and looking in the guide but can't find "columns 8a".  My guess is that it might be going right from the start of Tetris?

Is it the sit start to the problem to the right of Tetris?? Seem to recollect that being the case.....pic on Johnny Brown's website.....

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on February 23, 2010, 10:43:19 pm
Yes, it goes right from Tetris:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10531.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10531.0.html)




Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on February 23, 2010, 10:59:03 pm
Yes, it goes right from Tetris:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10531.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10531.0.html)

Doesnt clarify the 'easier than tetris or dirty 7c+/8a' issue though? Tetris felt steady 7c when  i did it, does adding the start of Tetris, into the mantal problem really make 8a? Keen to head back and check it out if its as good as Tetris.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on February 23, 2010, 11:07:22 pm
I saw that North CB had posted and thought 8c  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on February 24, 2010, 08:15:13 am
I'm pretty sure that Columns (as originally climbed by Mick) started up the prow/column/arete from the Tetris sitstart, then headed right across the lip to finish up the arete as per the 7b line described in the guide.  He also climbed it finishing up the mantel but going right would add a little bit of difficulty and maybe make it a touch harder than Tetris.  Not sure though as I've yet to do either problem from sitting.  :'(  However, I'd say Columns probably is as good as Tetris though although obviously I've not actually finished either of them.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on February 24, 2010, 09:49:36 am
Doesnt clarify the 'easier than tetris or dirty 7c+/8a' issue though? Tetris felt steady 7c when  i did it, does adding the start of Tetris, into the mantal problem really make 8a? Keen to head back and check it out if its as good as Tetris.....

It is definitely harder than Tetris and, in my opinion, a much better sequence. But like ferrret says on the other thread 7c+ is more realistic than 8a. It's not simply a case of adding the start of Tetris to the slab/right arete problem. Both these sections are easy. The transition is the meat of it. Awesome problem though, can't recommend it highly enough.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 24, 2010, 09:51:05 am
isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on February 24, 2010, 05:31:44 pm
Holy crapoly. how tall are you?

6 ft 2

At my powerlifting peak when I was heavier (around 17 stone), I was deadlifting 200kg, squatting 160kg (did 180 once but never managed a repeat), and benching 120kg.
Since I haven't done any proper powerlifting training for a long time and have been restricting myself to other exercises/training methods to help increase explosive power, my strength has dropped to around 60-70% of that, however I am now a lot lighter, and faster than I was when I was that kind of weight.
I imagine a lot of the weight comes from my legs and my back/core, as I also do a lot of cycling (70-100 miles a week minimum), and still have a very strong back from years of heavy deadlifting.
Anyway I want to stop cluttering up this thread with my training stuff so i'll shut up now  :wave:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on February 25, 2010, 08:17:17 am
isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?
I’ve never heard that one. That really would be making a sow’s ear out of a silk purse.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 25, 2010, 07:52:39 pm
Well after some 600000 hours of effort learning CAD, doing drawings, redoing them for the next day ad infintum writing essays, furthering structural knowledge, I scored 64% for first semester of this academic year. I'm pretty pleased with this. I'm pretty gutted one of my studio marks wasn't a fair bit higher but it was all in effect a semester of learning through error and teaching myself. 76% for architectural history was very much welcomed and it's always a pleasure to write about the Ticino school of architects as ultimately that should be where I end up working and crushing after graduating.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 25, 2010, 08:00:00 pm
Good effort Tom, must be very gratifying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on February 25, 2010, 08:01:45 pm
isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?
I’ve never heard that one. That really would be making a sow’s ear out of a silk purse.

Tony Simpson says:
Quote
It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 25, 2010, 08:15:24 pm
Thanks Andy. I think the life goals have to be: Font 8a, Sport 8a, an 8000m peak and an 8 million pound scheme in my own office. All probably contradict one another! I'm psyched though.  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 26, 2010, 12:17:05 am
an 8000 metre peak would require more than one day of climbing per year tom, sorry to break that news to you  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 26, 2010, 02:46:51 am
I'd ticked the vast majority of Snowdonia and a fair portion of the Lake District by 16 Emery so watch your mouth! More worried by the lofty ambition to tick Fr 8a with minimal sport climbing time under the belt of late. Anyway tax dodger, are you achieving or what??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on February 26, 2010, 08:01:05 am
Good study skills Tom, you are forgiven not turning up at the board last night. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 26, 2010, 08:49:04 am

Tony Simpson says:
Quote
It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html)
[/quote]

columns part deux?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 26, 2010, 09:55:08 am
not going down without a fight eh kes. take some of them down with you :wink:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on February 26, 2010, 10:11:10 am
isn't there some shit about columns actually starting just right of tetris, i.e. just on the right tetris rib sans left arete?
I’ve never heard that one. That really would be making a sow’s ear out of a silk purse.

Tony Simpson says:
Quote
It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html)
Come to think of it I had seen that before but discounted as confusing rumour. No disrespect to Tony, but that description is as clear as mud, besides which Tony’s descriptions of other peoples ascents are not world renoun for their pin-point accuracy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 26, 2010, 10:49:41 am
exactly what i thought, tho between columns being 8a and accapi clothing my stomachs never looked in better shape
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 26, 2010, 07:05:52 pm
Quote
I started one hand either side of the prow (as tetris), climbed to the lip, then shuffled rightwards along the top to the far right arete  - but the top was very damp so I just dropped off rather than manteling out the slab. For me it felt easier than tetris (ie, 7c/V9 ish), as you avoid the cut loose swinging round the corner - a non problem really.

Wow Ru, was this the same day you did Nadin's Secret Finger? Two words - ON FIRE.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on February 26, 2010, 07:40:27 pm
Wow Ru, was this the same day you did Nadin's Secret Finger? Two words - ON FIRE.

I detect sarcasm. Probably around the same time. Doing Columns and dropping off before the 7b finish probably is 7c, I stand by that one. I found Tetris quite hard. I think I was going ok at the time - did the Inertia Reel Trav at same time ish too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 26, 2010, 08:44:14 pm
No, the top out is trivial, sounds like you did the meat of the problem. By far the hardest move is establishing both hands on the lip and then getting feet up. I found Tetris quite hard too, but this is definitely harder. I agree it isn't the best line, though I'm assured it climbs better than Tetris.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on February 26, 2010, 09:06:12 pm
My non-problem remark was about the fact that I didn't finish it off, rather than dissing the line.

Also in this area, has anyone else done my sit start to Inertia Reel? I still think this is pretty tricky and don't know of anyone that's done it except Simpson who said he thought it was 7c. I found it harder than Mushin.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 26, 2010, 09:12:04 pm
After that guy bust his tendon on it I've never touched the hold since.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: El Mocho on February 26, 2010, 09:17:31 pm
Also in this area, has anyone else done my sit start to Inertia Reel? I still think this is pretty tricky and don't know of anyone that's done it except Simpson who said he thought it was 7c. I found it harder than Mushin.

I did it back in September. Think I found an easier way - ended up going with my right hand to the undercut as a backhand then matching with left and then palming with right to get stood up or something like that. 7c would prob be right to me, I had just done the trav so was trying yours, did that and then went t play on Mushin' (which I had done before) and couldn't do it.

I thought it was pretty good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on February 26, 2010, 09:26:02 pm
WHAT!

The traverse doesn't get a repeat for twelvty years and now everyone walking past has done it!

Well, everyone under 55 kilos.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 26, 2010, 11:07:38 pm
To be fair it took me three attempts to walk past it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 26, 2010, 11:39:09 pm
Sloper you are not under 55 kilos.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mini on February 27, 2010, 08:36:56 am
Also in this area, has anyone else done my sit start to Inertia Reel? I still think this is pretty tricky and don't know of anyone that's done it except Simpson who said he thought it was 7c. I found it harder than Mushin.

I tried it quite a few times, but just found it way too bunched trying to get any movement after gaining the IR undercut. I shan't suggest a certainly stature to be of benefit on this one.

After that guy bust his tendon on it I've never touched the hold since.

I believe 'that guy' was probably me, sure my memory places you at the scene that day. I've never touched the hold since either!

And to avoid getting too far off thread topic, good arrows Mr Wilson for ticking Columns, a well deserving problem and definitely one of the better problems in the Peak at the grade.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 05, 2010, 05:38:30 pm
Got Trackside done first go today   :great:  (after trying it for the first time in the wet last weekend..) good problem.

Then went and tried Guerilla Warfare and was unceremomiously spanked by it  :) But then had a great play working most of the moves on Tracker which has now become TomTom's first 7b project.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on March 05, 2010, 07:25:14 pm
Sloper you are not under 55 kilos.

I'd be happy at being under 75 kilos.  As it is probably back at arounr 78 - 80 :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on March 05, 2010, 09:07:57 pm
Sloper you are not under 55 kilos.

I'd be happy at being under 75 kilos.  As it is probably back at arounr 78 - 80 :-[

The day I make it to under 90kg I will be happy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 06, 2010, 11:02:55 am
me too
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on March 06, 2010, 06:16:43 pm
I've waited a while before posting my first YYFY but finally did West Side Story today. There was a time I thought I'd never be able to tick this and it feels amazing to have done it.

Thought it wasn't going to happen today due to the rain this morning but by late afternoon conditions were mint.

And yes, I did top it out. Thanks to the other guys out there who spotted me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on March 06, 2010, 06:44:21 pm
Nice one. It's another one for my list too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on March 06, 2010, 08:25:22 pm
Well a promising weekend turned to drizzle this morning so sacked off Burbage in favour of a local crag, Ramshaw. I wasn’t getting on with the freezing wind and fog so headed to Wrights rock (90mph on route!) and redeemed myself by bagging Sam Tan… Off to cash in my beer tokens now  :beer1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 06, 2010, 09:22:34 pm
nearly froze to death at ramshaw myself. headed to roaches quick smart like
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on March 08, 2010, 09:32:23 am
redeemed myself by bagging Sam Tan
A fine effort Eddie, nice one.

nearly froze to death at ramshaw myself. headed to roaches quick smart like
Jim was that you on the big dyno then the c3po?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 08, 2010, 12:52:33 pm
if the person was flailing miserably then yes
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on March 08, 2010, 01:47:01 pm
and if not, then it was my missus, burning Jim off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on March 08, 2010, 01:56:45 pm
I guess it was jim on the dyno and it was you on Boba Fet at the end of the day, as i was skulking of moaning about loosing a finger nail, did you get anywhere on BF?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on March 08, 2010, 02:01:48 pm
Hiya, that's right, nice to meet you.

I did Boba Fett, satisfying problem, and Emma did C3PO.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on March 08, 2010, 02:08:27 pm
nice to meet you also :wave:. Good effort on BF, did you ignore the low smear and just use the higher smear and pop up? i think it will be immensely satisfying when i finally do it, im at the point of no return i cant waist as much of my life as i have and not get it done, just have to wait for the nail to reattach ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on March 08, 2010, 03:38:52 pm
I used my left foot in the pocket-like dink for a slow and steady stand into the first move, then stepped up again into the same footholds as you said you were using. If that makes sense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on March 08, 2010, 03:58:43 pm
it does, cheers Andy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jeff25 on March 10, 2010, 06:50:15 pm
YYFY

as i said on the power club thread- completed one of my year end goal - my wife had a little baby girl. :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

plus i managed a set of repeaters on the 35 slopers (with hardcore nestle) with baby in baby Bjorn --which adds roughly 3kgs.
- I wonder how many months (weeks) ill be able to do that for....

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on March 10, 2010, 07:20:17 pm

Brilliant stuff Mrs Jeff :great:

And you got yourself a training aid for a little while, they get big quick though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 12, 2010, 08:54:36 am
YYFY

as i said on the power club thread- completed one of my year end goal - my wife had a little baby girl. :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

plus i managed a set of repeaters on the 35 slopers (with hardcore nestle) with baby in baby Bjorn --which adds roughly 3kgs.
- I wonder how many months (weeks) ill be able to do that for....

Nice one! Name? I mentioned baby based resistance training in the "future wad" thread I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on March 12, 2010, 10:08:38 am
Rocked up at the wall yesterday and felt strong like beast rrrrrrawwwwr   ;D

Went in, warmed up, and proceeded to Flash every single V1 there (minus 2 because I went off to try a V2), including my first ever V1 on an overhang.
I then almost did my first V2!....well I got half way through it, but Hell yeah!
My fingers felt strong, I felt strong, I felt good!
After several attempts at the V2 and one more V1 I tired to keep going but I was so knackered I couldn't even bang out a sit-start haha!
Just wanted to share my buzz, last night I felt in the zone, and it was awesome :bounce: progression is awesome.

P.S.

Congrats on the baby Jeff!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jeff25 on March 12, 2010, 12:15:36 pm
YYFY

Nice one! Name? I mentioned baby based resistance training in the "future wad" thread I think.

Babys name is Dilys - its Welsh.
Not sure yet if shes a future Wad - shes currently reluctant wrinkling her nose up at the beastmaker! so early signs arent great.
She Manged to get three fingers into the Monos so i might have to hang her a mini version...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 12, 2010, 01:20:44 pm
plus i managed a set of repeaters on the 35 slopers (with hardcore nestle) with baby in baby Bjorn --which adds roughly 3kgs.
- I wonder how many months (weeks) ill be able to do that for....

Way to go. That's how Hercules got to climb 9a in sandals picking up a calf each day as a boy until he ended up picking it up as a bull in his teens. Legend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Serpico on March 12, 2010, 01:54:45 pm
plus i managed a set of repeaters on the 35 slopers (with hardcore nestle) with baby in baby Bjorn --which adds roughly 3kgs.
- I wonder how many months (weeks) ill be able to do that for....

Way to go. That's how Hercules got to climb 9a in sandals picking up a calf each day as a boy until he ended up picking it up as a bull in his teens. Legend.

Surely you're thinking of Milo of Croton?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 12, 2010, 05:23:05 pm
Milo was a self-publicising imposter who ripped off Herc's training techniques and claimed them as his own.

I thought everyone knew that. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 12, 2010, 05:52:44 pm
plus i managed a set of repeaters on the 35 slopers (with hardcore nestle) with baby in baby Bjorn --which adds roughly 3kgs.
- I wonder how many months (weeks) ill be able to do that for....

Way to go. That's how Hercules got to climb 9a in sandals picking up a calf each day as a boy until he ended up picking it up as a bull in his teens. Legend.

Surely you're thinking of Milo of Croton?

Where the Oil comes from??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on March 12, 2010, 08:43:30 pm
That's how Hercules got to climb 9a in sandals picking up a calf each day as a boy until he ended up picking it up as a bull in his teens. Legend.

Shit, isn't that...?

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/82/Milo_of_Croton_Dumont_Louvre_MR1839.jpg/400px-Milo_of_Croton_Dumont_Louvre_MR1839.jpg)

(http://www.cartage.org.lb/en/themes/arts/scultpureplastic/sculpture/bigphotos/B/hercules.jpg)

(congratulations to Rob, Ms. Rob and Dilys)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 15, 2010, 09:44:57 am
YYFY, crushed Meribel and indeed most of Les Trois Vallees last week. Given I still can't walk uphill for 5 minutes without collapsing, and given how thigh intensive skiing usually feels, I'm well chuffed to be skiing as well as I ever have. Wheeeee.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on March 17, 2010, 05:29:45 pm
YYFY! First 8b! Magnetic! :-D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on March 17, 2010, 06:16:12 pm
beast!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: The Sausage on March 17, 2010, 10:19:43 pm
Cofe did Western Eyes yesterday. Not sure if he wants the world to know, but there you go.
Good work Son!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 18, 2010, 09:12:14 am
Ah I posted that in the wrong thread.......  :wall:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 18, 2010, 10:13:29 pm
cofe did western eyes? thought we had another 14 days before stuff like this came out :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 23, 2010, 07:49:24 pm
Great day at the cliff today...
Managed to get Si's Arete nailed  :great: also repeats on DWR, Dreamland and Crucifix low traverse... four >=7a in a day is my best outing ever... Rob caught me mid slap on Si's on the successful attempt - nice picture (should have worn red!) esp the shadow under the slapping hand  :)  Rob nearly made Jess' roof & looks good for next time!

(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_B3qgMe1HpPI/S6kZSiARYuI/AAAAAAAAAio/55lUoZd62LA/s640/si%27s%20arete%20cropped.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 23, 2010, 11:37:26 pm
Congrats on a good day out Tom  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on March 24, 2010, 09:02:10 pm
Not a climbing YYFY but still the best thing to happen to me in ages.

Start work next week for King Kong Climbing walls. Sweet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 24, 2010, 10:08:51 pm
Congrats Golt, glad its some good news after the hassle you've had.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 26, 2010, 12:39:55 am
Nice photo and a good tick there tomtom! good effort!

Great news for you too mike, no excuse to not get really strong now! Might come up your way in a few weeks time for a bees/bowder hit!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on March 26, 2010, 09:45:12 am
Thanks chaps, hopefully this is the job I've been searching for.

Andi, give me a holla through FB or text and I'll let you know what the weather is doing. pretty pants at present.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 26, 2010, 09:54:27 am
Nice one Golt
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on March 26, 2010, 10:08:29 am
Cheers Chris  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ethan on March 27, 2010, 04:03:55 pm
Climbed Zippy's new route "The Pinch Test" today down Rubicon, really cool one move wonder, total boulder problem.
Has this had a repeat does anyone know?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 27, 2010, 07:13:13 pm
effort, what grade is she? by the Inch Test by any chance?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JC on March 27, 2010, 07:22:54 pm
Climbed Zippy's new route "The Pinch Test" today down Rubicon, really cool one move wonder, total boulder problem.
Has this had a repeat does anyone know?

Its  7c+. Not by the Inch Test, its at Rubicon to the left of the Sissy.   Nice one Ethan! Probably second ascent, Zippy did it near the end of last year & its only really dried out recently. What font grade do you reckon  (7a+ or 7b ish)?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ethan on March 28, 2010, 12:07:27 am
Cheers!!
Felt really hard until figured out some sneaky beta for the right hand pinch and then it went first go! Probably Font 7B but maybe easier, you'll have to get on it mate.
Syked to get over to Crunch Buttress with you soon by the way Jon, fancy a crack at Karma Killer!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JC on March 28, 2010, 06:57:09 pm
Cool sounds good.   I did the 2nd (?)  ascent of Karma Killer today,  really good route!   :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy Harris on March 29, 2010, 11:40:34 am
Good effort Jon. As far as I know it's the 2nd ascent. I got v.close a few years ago but motivattion/conditions wained. It really is a cool route and I think a 2 move Font 7c+ or top end 8b. Seriously knarly peak style climbing.

A chequered history. It's the route that mentally broke Tony Coutts (he gave up climbing having done it & emigrated to Australia) & physically broke Steve Fearne & Robin Barker (that mono). I always thought the crux is the the u'cut move.

Amazed it's dry. Maybe I'll get motivated to get back on it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 29, 2010, 11:56:09 am
There's a name from the past. I met Tony in Font in 1996, before I moved to the UK and bouldered with him for a day. Thought I might bump into him when I was in Leeds, but our paths never crossed (clearly he spent a lot of time on the limestone, whereas I most certanly didn't). There was no internet back in them days either.. Seemed a nice bloke.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JC on March 29, 2010, 12:02:24 pm
Cheers Andy.   Wow good to know a bit about the history of it, didn't know any of that   :o

The crag has been bone for a couple of weeks, but some seepage coming through yesterday.

I guess it is a bit gnarly to be popular, but i thought it was better than Zeke for me. I agree the crux is using the undercut and its super technical on the feet as well!

I had a go on the 8a to the left afterwards (possibly unrepeated as well?), managed to do all the moves but i reckon it might be undergraded!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 29, 2010, 12:24:39 pm
"Peak sport routes in hard and nasty SHOCKER" ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 29, 2010, 12:26:30 pm
And undergraded? Ticks all the boxes!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on March 29, 2010, 12:33:29 pm
YES YES FUCKING YES!

Did my first V2 on Sunday, awesomeness  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy Harris on March 29, 2010, 01:41:51 pm
If I remember the 8a lost a crucial hold and was unrepeated. Although I'm not sure if it's ever been tried so more like untried. Simon Reed may have done it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jeff25 on March 29, 2010, 03:13:11 pm
That's how Hercules got to climb 9a in sandals picking up a calf each day as a boy until he ended up picking it up as a bull in his teens. Legend.

Shit, isn't that...?

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/82/Milo_of_Croton_Dumont_Louvre_MR1839.jpg/400px-Milo_of_Croton_Dumont_Louvre_MR1839.jpg)

(http://www.cartage.org.lb/en/themes/arts/scultpureplastic/sculpture/bigphotos/B/hercules.jpg)

(congratulations to Rob, Ms. Rob and Dilys)

 :bow: brilliant  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 29, 2010, 08:37:49 pm
YYFY
i finally managed to pull my finger out of the proverbial placement and stop whining about being fat and weak, to start training again.
i did my first session today, preparing myself to be worth of the beastmaker that i want to buy, in whose loving arms i will spend the summer.
so given that the beastmaker guys are true beasts i did what they do (on a smaller scale...) and now i am beasted.
and happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 06, 2010, 02:28:39 pm
I JUST BOUGHT A BEASTMAKER
GODDAMMIT FUCKING YES
oh fu** i am so fu**ing excited! if i can't climb as much as i want, i can train so fu**ing much that three days a year will be enough to tick all the 8b's in ticino.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on April 06, 2010, 02:37:57 pm
are you pleased with your beastmaker then Nibs?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 06, 2010, 02:58:20 pm
well, considering that i only sent the order and i already feel stronger, i have to say that i am very pleased!
can't wait to receive it, mount it and start training.
no more fear of the dark days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on April 06, 2010, 05:32:36 pm
YYFY!
Just come back from my font trip trip where i set myself the goal of doing a 7a or above every day. Despite the rain I managed it, here is my 7a up tick list for the week:
Graviton 7a
Gravilon 7a
L'oblique 7a
Helicoptere 7a (I tried this about 60 times last year and didn't manage it so I was laying a demon to rest)
Carnage 7b+ (This also another yyfy as it is my first 7b+ and it took me about 5 or 6 goes)
Cul de chien roof sans chip 7a (Although it was wet on the top so I jumped off once I got to the jug after trying to top it out)
L'angle bens 7a+ (I was really psyched for this cause when we were at isatis it rained with intermittent showers all day and I really wanted to do this and it seemed to stay wet for ages after the rain, and I had to persuade my friends to stay despite it being soaked so I could wait for it to dry)

I also got high up on super prestat, but had to give in cause it was slicing the skin off my fingers. I am psyched to try it again next year. Preferably with fresh skin.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 06, 2010, 09:41:20 pm
Cul de chien roof sans chip frite 7a

We'll have no franglais here!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: youngy on April 07, 2010, 12:09:45 pm
YYFY
did another 7a on monday  :thumbsup:

managed to do Parisellas Original/roof only took 4 goes as well

aimed for 5 this year and done 4 already

just need to get a few more outside the cave haha

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 07, 2010, 12:17:15 pm
6 days climbing in Catalunya and no elbow pain. My injury is completely healed  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: wiain on April 07, 2010, 12:47:18 pm
YYFY!
Just come back from my font trip trip where i set myself the goal of doing a 7a or above every day. Despite the rain I managed it, here is my 7a up tick list for the week:

Nice one Tom.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on April 09, 2010, 11:47:24 pm
YYFY: Had a day off and went climbing in the georgous amazing beautiful weather today.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on April 10, 2010, 11:15:00 pm
I know, I know, not really the right forum, but my injuries can't really take bouldering too well right now. Need physio!

So YYFY, did my first HVS's today. Tody's wall (awesome), Chequers buttress (nice) and three pebble slab (scary as shite)

Knew I had HVS in me, but been putting it off til i got some confidence in friction again after 3 months of indoor only climbing.

Now i just need to convince someone to sack off this trad lark and come do some sport with me. Not the easiest when you live in Sheffield and can't climb the 7's. Horseshoe anyone?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 10, 2010, 11:25:18 pm
 :thumbsup: Good work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 11, 2010, 10:41:23 am

So YYFY, did my first HVS's today. Tody's wall (awesome), Chequers buttress (nice) and three pebble slab (scary as shite)

Now i just need to convince someone to sack off this trad lark and come do some sport with me. Not the easiest when you live in Sheffield and can't climb the 7's. Horseshoe anyone?

Two great routes, nice one. Why do you want to go and do sport climbing now though?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on April 11, 2010, 06:10:41 pm
Yes Yes Fucking Yes!! Did Marks Roof Left Hand (peak district bouldering guide) or Roadside Roof (BMC) this morning. My first 7A.  :bounce:

It almost went first go (after working it last Tuesday) and then took another 4 or 5 attempts. Thought I was going to fluff the top out after my brain seemed to stop working.

If it's got two names do I get two 7A's?  :-\ ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ackbar on April 11, 2010, 07:01:38 pm
Yes Yes Fucking Yes!! Did Marks Roof Left Hand (peak district bouldering guide) or Roadside Roof (BMC) this morning. My first 7A.  :bounce:

It almost went first go (after working it last Tuesday) and then took another 4 or 5 attempts. Thought I was going to fluff the top out after my brain seemed to stop working.

If it's got two names do I get two 7A's?  :-\ ;D

Nice one.  This was my first 7A as well, and in my opinion one of the best around.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 11, 2010, 07:08:27 pm
YYFY...YYFY...YYFY...YYFY...


:dance1: :dance1: First 8A in the forest :dance1: :dance1:

Last Friday did La Puce at Canche between rain showers and just before the mother of all hailstorms, of course there's no climbing on this problem but it would seem I'm pretty good at jumping backwards...

Expect this fact to be referenced to in every post I make for the next few weeks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on April 11, 2010, 07:37:16 pm
dynos dont count  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 11, 2010, 08:19:48 pm
They do when you're short :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 11, 2010, 11:18:55 pm
You always say everything's 8a for the short.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on April 12, 2010, 01:59:19 pm
 i have just had a month off worked OK'd by the gaffer so i can got to font in oct, so that leaves 6 months to train, there goes the summer,YYFY :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jowgli on April 13, 2010, 05:51:15 pm
awesome, will there be any more quality vimeo uploads?

on another note, super excited to tick marks roof left hand at gardoms on my 2nd proper go, i think this is the quickest i have ever climbed 7a  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on April 13, 2010, 10:26:39 pm
oh yes, planin on an epic full length film this time. Good skills on MRL, its a beauty of a problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 13, 2010, 11:16:22 pm
does marks left stil get 7a? thought it came down to 6c yrs ago
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 13, 2010, 11:18:34 pm
Ah Dense, if I ever want urine on my chips instead of vinegar- I'll give you a shout  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on April 13, 2010, 11:20:35 pm
he used to be able to provide dandruff instead of salt as well but that stopped a while ago  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on April 13, 2010, 11:47:10 pm
does marks left stil get 7a? thought it came down to 6c yrs ago

You'd better have done it mind!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 14, 2010, 12:29:52 am
does marks left stil get 7a? thought it came down to 6c yrs ago

Yeah it does, I think it'd be a bit tough for 6C.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 14, 2010, 09:58:23 am
i have spent the last weekend in ticino, and although i have no YYFY climbing wise, i had an enormous YYFY moment when i met two guys from sweden who knew the blog!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on April 14, 2010, 10:09:43 am
does marks left stil get 7a? thought it came down to 6c yrs ago

Yeah it does, I think it'd be a bit tough for 6C.
My guide says 7A and it has a big tick next to it.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Slide on April 14, 2010, 05:36:09 pm
E1 7a...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 14, 2010, 08:35:51 pm
4th day on... not climbed nor trained for 3 months..

never climbed harder than 7a+ in Font..

bagged a 7a fourth go, in the sun..

just some sitter at mecriers.. but all flowing.. fontesque and marv!!

YYFY!

one happy fatcdoc..

( cheers for the beta Oli...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 15, 2010, 10:19:37 pm
Polldubh / Wave Buttress / Edgehog & Walters Wall. Been wanting to get up there for years. Amazing weather amazing climbing. So syked I need to change my pants.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 16, 2010, 09:38:04 am
Following on from this.... (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7593.msg255566.html#msg255566)

We've had our house on the market for a week. One viewing last night and they've put a very acceptable offer in already. Buyer with no chain, nice people too. GET THE FUCK IN!

Just gotta find somewhere to move to now........ :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2010, 09:41:06 am
Polldubh / Wave Buttress / Edgehog & Walters Wall.

Nice. Is it looking good in the glen now that all the trees have been cut back? Will hopefully reduce midginess over sunmmer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on April 16, 2010, 10:21:53 am
Just gotta find somewhere to move to now........ :bounce:

 8)
I hear 'The Peaks' is a nice spot.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 16, 2010, 04:51:50 pm
are you finally going to stick with the name 'uptown' or in another yr will you simply be known as 'up'? which as we all know is libelous in your case  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on April 16, 2010, 05:15:56 pm
are you finally going to stick with the name 'uptown' or in another yr will you simply be known as 'up'? which as we all know is libelous in your case  ;)

We've just put a very acceptable offer in on a nice place 'downtown', we've no chain and are nice people too so we'll see how it goes. :kiss2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 16, 2010, 05:31:32 pm
tell me uve not sold the house its taken you 30yrs to get ready to live in? the beekeeper thinks ure dead
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 16, 2010, 08:39:01 pm
YYFY, not only did I win the biggest contract of my career to date today :greed: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: and maybe even  :shag: but I'm going to get the chance to tell some non climbing clients to fuck off in the near future. :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: so here's to some grand cru induced hangover tomorrow.

Ohh and Hugo is now tearing up the plantaion, I swear he's worked all the low moves on Jerry's traverse.  :great:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 16, 2010, 08:49:47 pm
So your now the official LandRover Brigade Representative?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 16, 2010, 08:59:03 pm
You, you're, your?

Naahh I'm the face of the new range of the vegan range of homepathic remedies to buffer the side effects of reiki masters over doing it with the force.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 16, 2010, 10:20:51 pm
Nice. Is it looking good in the glen now that all the trees have been cut back? Will hopefully reduce midginess over sunmmer.
There's a lot of tree debris in places, like in front of Repton and Road Buttress, but the overall effect has made things much more open, aye, good for climbing all round I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 17, 2010, 01:06:08 pm
Cool, need to get down there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 18, 2010, 08:51:47 am
You saved Crackattack for another day?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Charles on April 18, 2010, 02:45:47 pm
 :oops: Logged in on my housemates profile.

YYFY! Finally did deliverance yesterday. Felt easy once I had managed it, so I repeated it straight after and got it on camera. It has taken a long time to get this one down.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on April 18, 2010, 02:54:42 pm
YYFY! Finally did deliverance yesterday. Felt easy once I had managed it, so I repeated it straight after and got it on camera. It has taken a long time to get this one down.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on April 18, 2010, 05:48:58 pm
YYFY! just got razor roof at cratcliffe. My first 6C too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 18, 2010, 08:07:58 pm
YYFY! Finally did deliverance yesterday. Felt easy once I had managed it, so I repeated it straight after and got it on camera. It has taken a long time to get this one down.

Well done Tom - its one thats gnawing at me to complete too!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on April 18, 2010, 10:35:28 pm
Got Mr Smooth done at Caley - now for me that is one big YYFY moment - really pleased to say the least.

As if that wasn't enough I then flashed 6b and got another 6b 2nd go. I should state  for the record they are the two arêtes on the Roof of the World area (Page 123 of the Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering Guide) and if you had asked me I would have said they were 6a and 6a+ but the guide book never lies IMO.  ;) Please feel free to piss on my chips at will but please don't be offended if I say "Fuck You, I Did Mr Smooth".   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on April 19, 2010, 04:23:20 pm
YYFY, did the crack on the bowderstone Friday. Only took 3 trips!  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 19, 2010, 04:56:11 pm
Got Mr Smooth done at Caley - now for me that is one big YYFY moment - really pleased to say the least.

Nice, it's a quality prob. Was pleased as I have a pic of me in exactly the same position as the photo (of Steve Rhodes?) in the really old Yorkshire Bouldering guide.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 19, 2010, 08:50:06 pm
YYFY, did the crack on the bowderstone Friday. Only took 3 trips!  :great:
Nice, it's a quality prob.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on April 19, 2010, 09:58:58 pm
YYFY, did the crack on the bowderstone Friday. Only took 3 trips!  :great:

Nice one... Is this the beginning of a great relationship with the stone?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on April 19, 2010, 10:00:16 pm
Got Mr Smooth done at Caley - now for me that is one big YYFY moment - really pleased to say the least.

Nice, it's a quality prob. Was pleased as I have a pic of me in exactly the same position as the photo (of Steve Rhodes?) in the really old Yorkshire Bouldering guide.
Its not as good as this picture tho:
(http://i39.tinypic.com/1197x5g.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 19, 2010, 10:01:47 pm
I don't get on with that stupid problem at all   :furious:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 19, 2010, 10:18:12 pm
another one of them probs thats supposed to be classic, but is only ok
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 19, 2010, 10:28:45 pm
Tsk, dont you know you should be wearing something brighter to get more contrast against the rock  :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on April 19, 2010, 10:30:57 pm
try telling the red baron then
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2010, 07:16:32 am
Got Mr Smooth done at Caley - now for me that is one big YYFY moment - really pleased to say the least.

Nice, it's a quality prob. Was pleased as I have a pic of me in exactly the same position as the photo (of Steve Rhodes?) in the really old Yorkshire Bouldering guide.
Its not as good as this picture tho

I don't remember ever showing you the picture Jim?

It's a slide,  taken in (I think) 1998 I am dressed in a very fetching multicoloured fleece IIRC.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on April 20, 2010, 08:38:33 am
YYFY, did the crack on the bowderstone Friday. Only took 3 trips!  :great:

Nice one... Is this the beginning of a great relationship with the stone?

With a bit of luck! Had a go at the crack direct but felt slightly lacking in power, I shall return in a couple of months though for another blast :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on April 20, 2010, 08:18:25 pm
YYFY!

Just got the 2nd ascent of La Saboteur at Dumby!  :)

Then watched Malc put up 2 new 8b's!  :o

What an awesome afternoon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 25, 2010, 06:34:49 pm
Not often I get to post on this thread, but this week I've done my project arete (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14925.0.html) and now I've got my retribution:

New Rose- The Circle complete (http://www.vimeo.com/11207869)


YYFY   :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tommy on April 26, 2010, 08:15:16 pm
A big deviant yes, yes, fucking yes for me today. Just ticked my cellar project a year ahead of schedule. Can't believe the training has paid off so early! So psyched.

100 ft of continuous horizontal roof offwidth on hand and fist stacks. Took 9 minutes to complete and ended in some serious nausea. :-)

Probably should do some real climbing now after that!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 26, 2010, 08:22:07 pm
 :o Are you miner in your spare time, how big is your cellar?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 26, 2010, 11:07:36 pm
A big deviant yes, yes, fucking yes for me today. Just ticked my cellar project a year ahead of schedule. Can't believe the training has paid off so early! So psyched.

100 ft of continuous horizontal roof offwidth on hand and fist stacks. Took 9 minutes to complete and ended in some serious nausea. :-)

Probably should do some real climbing now after that!

do you call it the dungeon by any chance?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 26, 2010, 11:11:03 pm
A big deviant yes, yes, fucking yes for me today.

hand and fist stacks. Took 9 minutes to complete and ended in some serious nausea. :-)

Bit like this?  (seriously Stallioni NSFW level, this is)

NSFW  :
(http://www.analfistfucking.info/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/extreme-anal-fisting.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tommy on April 26, 2010, 11:17:31 pm
How big is my cellar, Slackers.....? Wouldn't you like to know  :P  You'd love it. Come round some time. I won't get the gimp suit made of finger tape out on your first visit...  ;D

Paul - nah, nothing as serious as the Dungeon. Just "The Cellar" keep it all innocent sounding so I can entice mates down there for some weirdness.

GCW - Tut tut.  :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 28, 2010, 10:36:31 am
Polished off two excellent new Cheshire highballs (30') last night. Tiring and with flayed tips I had to dig in a little on a thin move high on the second one - always a good feeling. Nothing spectacular, just one of those times climbing is really satisfying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on April 28, 2010, 06:53:02 pm
I know this is very small change, but I did the 6a on the side of the dog at burbage south today, topped it out with a great big grin on my face, think I first tried it about 2 years ago and have played on it a few times since then. The first on my 2010 ticklist for me to develop into a 7a punter this year.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on April 28, 2010, 08:36:33 pm
The number doesn't matter. It's the feeling it creates.

Speaking of which, I had a rare YYFY moment today. A few mates have done Blood Falls recently, and it sounded like I'd be able to flash it, so when we turned up at Rowtor today, I didn't think my 4 red raw tips would be the best way to try the flash. I got on it anyway, and lo and behold, ticked it first go. Cha-ching! I really don't feel like I can take 7b for it (maybe if I was 6 inches shorter), but it's a very cool problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on April 30, 2010, 11:33:56 am
YYFY!

Almost nailed my first V3 indoors the other day, I think all that overhang work and plymetric training is finally starting to pay off.
Got 75% of it done but my fingers were just too cooked from traversing circuits earlier on, regardless I am super-psyched considering I only did my first V2 around a month ago, FUCK YES
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2010, 12:37:13 pm
I've spent the last month or maybe more chasing a numerical glitch in a piece of commercial code believing the problem to my own stupidity.

HAHA

YYFY I'm not a thickie & YYFY the updated code works a treat AND my results kick my predecessors ass.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 30, 2010, 12:49:49 pm
 :thumbsup: Crappy commercial code, at least you could see it and identify the problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 01, 2010, 06:51:33 pm
Managed 1-4-7 for the first time the other day on the second biggest set of rungs (the first set of normal campus rungs) at the works. Pretty chuffed.   :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on May 06, 2010, 10:00:48 pm
First Font 6c today and its my birthday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on May 07, 2010, 08:28:31 am
First Font 6c today and its my birthday.

Good work Seb, birthdays can bring out the best in folk.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on May 07, 2010, 11:35:45 am
Cheers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on May 07, 2010, 04:46:12 pm
I've got hold of a signed copy of Big Ron's book. The missus was intrigued to know why he looked like a 70's pr0n star  :o. I didn't have the heart to explain  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 08, 2010, 01:16:34 pm
Ron Fawcett
(http://forrestersandsquattersarms.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/ron-jeremy-1.jpg)

Ron Jeremy
(http://www.v-outdoor.co.uk/uploads/images/CaveRoute_web.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: redcal on May 08, 2010, 02:41:48 pm
Got up to dissapointing rainy skies only to go to Stoney and get Tom's Original 2nd go and crush a load of 6c/+'s   :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 13, 2010, 08:41:55 pm
YYFY... yeeefuckinghaaaa... finally managed to go climbing for the first time in 2 1/2 weeks... Went to the cliff, thought I would be appalling but seemed to be cranking strong but not much endurance - got as far with underhand as I have previously  :thumbsup:

Good to be back on the grit  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carnage on May 16, 2010, 04:15:26 am
YYFY! First V8 (Body Eater in Hollow Mountain Cave) after 2 years in the wilderness with injuries. Nice to finally be back on track. Yay!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tim Broughtonshaw on May 16, 2010, 07:26:45 am
Did subculture today.  About time.... soft 8a,  :shrug:  i didn't think so? 

Tim
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 16, 2010, 10:34:06 am
Had a little YYFY yesterday - got Creme Egg Eliminate on only the second session on it...after last week's initial attempts I thought it could well be one of those that develops into an obsession!

Sorry about FB pic - nice shot of it here:

(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs327.snc3/28981_423123202194_596202194_5418045_1165095_n.jpg)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on May 16, 2010, 01:13:28 pm
YYFY! First V8 (Body Eater in Hollow Mountain Cave) after 2 years in the wilderness with injuries. Nice to finally be back on track. Yay!

Nice one beast
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: schloosh on May 18, 2010, 03:57:39 pm
YYFY - First 6a flash - Banana Finger!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on May 19, 2010, 11:18:33 am
Nice, thats a good problem!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Iesu on May 21, 2010, 11:14:30 am
Yes fuck me yes, got New Jerusalem 1st go on monday night, felt like piss!!

oh, hang on:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11205.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11205.0.html)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 25, 2010, 12:05:07 am
Very big YYFY. Literally crushed the press at rubicon today. Whats even better is I reckon I can to the low start, after a few attempts on it I was getting pretty close. Will be going back to destroy it soon hopefully. Not so exciting video to follow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 25, 2010, 12:13:16 pm
As promised:
The Press, Rubicon (http://vimeo.com/12003537)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on May 25, 2010, 12:53:11 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_13cLvSGWGh4/SegF-iQidaI/AAAAAAAACh4/FDq4_hcojiU/s320/highfive_Borat.gif)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Slide on May 26, 2010, 10:16:26 am
Your team looked really psyched for you there Butterworth
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on May 26, 2010, 10:18:13 am
If the idea of that vid was to make yourself look like a bit of an idiot, you certainly succeeded  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 26, 2010, 10:19:23 am
Your team looked really psyched for you there Butterworth

 :lol:

If the idea of that vid was to make yourself look like a bit of an idiot, you certainly succeeded  ;)

 :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 26, 2010, 11:40:53 am
Im all for a bit of self deprecating humour - if I mock myself people can't punch me for it. I guess the idea was to make myself look a bit stupid, otherwise I wouldn't have included all the bits of my totally retarded behaviour in that video. Half of the team was enthusastic, the other was just slightly miffed I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on May 26, 2010, 12:14:10 pm
people can always punch you, self-deprecating or not.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on May 26, 2010, 12:23:51 pm
. Half of the team was enthusastic, the other was just slightly miffed I think.

Charles didn't look particularly enthusiastic, especially with the bottle!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 26, 2010, 01:02:47 pm
Yeah. I was being a bit of a dick  :wank: There was a moment of misunderstanding and I wanged a water bottle at him so he squared up to me. The initial anger subsided as fast as it came on though. Good old Charlie   :kiss2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 26, 2010, 01:09:01 pm
Might not have subsided so quickly if you'd fucked the camera up though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on May 26, 2010, 01:17:09 pm
(http://www.bluescore.net/work/Vic_Bob_Handbags.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 26, 2010, 01:25:53 pm
There was only a tiny bit of water in the bottle so I don't think it would have done much. I'm sure Charlie and Dave are probably sat at home now (they are revising), probably seeing me getting rinsed on here and pissing themselves. He has puntered me for being a knob already anyway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on May 26, 2010, 10:46:14 pm
I think it was cute you all were wearing coordinated colours. Do you do that every time?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 26, 2010, 11:25:27 pm
We try to co-ordinate over the course of the week. Charlie has always been the most fashion conscious so he sets the rules:
Mondays - Warm earth tones - Oranges, reds, browns.
Tuedays - Sarongs in summer, roll neck jumpers in winter
Wednesdays - Casual day - Usually "just" jeans and a t-shirt, although as we are all such fashionistas this has recently become more competitive. Fortunately our selfridges personal shopper is on speed dial and knows our skin tones so can usually have something sent over in advance.
Thursdays - Tend to be washing days in preparation for the weekend. Quite often a dangerous mish mash. Once I mixed a ruffled Alexander McQueen shirt with Dior leather chaps. What was I thinking. Needless to say Charlie was outraged.
Fridays - Party time. We begin by co-ordinating underwear in case we happen to make advances on the same girl and we are all equally successful. Animal print thongs are the current fave. We even have some specially made from Pal Zileri made with real mink. Always a hit with the ladies. This is topped off with a pair of jeans - Almost always Dior or Versace, and a shirt, we like to go British for this though as there are far too many goons out on Fridays. A subtle Paul Smith shirt or Thomas Pink usually cuts it. This is finished with a light spritzing off a fresh Eau de Parfum. We are big fans of Space N.K. for this one.
Saturdays and sundays we spend rolling around naked lathering each other in Patchouli oil.  :shag:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 27, 2010, 08:54:13 am
(http://www.myemoticons.com/images/work-school/physical-labor/digging.gif)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on May 27, 2010, 09:06:22 am
I have been mostly climbing in late period S7 pants mixed with contempory streetwear brand tops such as Supreme Being, Carhartt, American Apparel..
We should meet up, sounds like you could give me some great ideas for more cutting edge crag wear..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 27, 2010, 09:24:07 am
Boot cut jeans perhaps.  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Charles on May 27, 2010, 10:56:39 am
I'm sure Charlie and Dave are probably sat at home now (they are revising), probably seeing me getting rinsed on here and pissing themselves.

Yarp.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on May 27, 2010, 03:41:43 pm
Why do people finish the Press at the lower jug?  I thought the rules were that you had to finish high the first time you do it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cofe on May 27, 2010, 03:48:26 pm
back around!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on May 27, 2010, 03:59:43 pm
Sorry, didn't want to sound like I was pissing on your chips
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on May 27, 2010, 04:02:32 pm
Why do people finish the Press at the lower jug?  I thought the rules were that you had to finish high the first time you do it?

+1
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 27, 2010, 05:06:04 pm
Was not aware of such rules. The book makes it sound like you just get the jug. So if the first time you do it you have to keep going, does that mean for all the various extensions you also have to keep going?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 27, 2010, 05:21:32 pm
Was not aware of such rules. The book makes it sound like you just get the jug. So if the first time you do it you have to keep going, does that mean for all the various extensions you also have to keep going?

I wonder what the axiom is there  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 27, 2010, 05:27:48 pm
Tippex time  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Charles on May 27, 2010, 06:16:40 pm
You'll have to make a new video Tom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on May 27, 2010, 06:17:20 pm
Basically you have crushed the shit out of the hard bit.  The next few moves (to another jug) are very easy in comparison.  I'd still take the tick and just add the extra 2 moves next time when you are lapping it  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 27, 2010, 09:13:23 pm
nothing climbing related sadly, but yesterday i had a yyfy moment while cycling home from work, when i scored the first pair of tits of the season, thanks to the heat wave of these last days.
they were tiny pointy little boobs, perfectly proportioned, moving under a deeply unbuttoned shirt.
moreover, they were perfectly coherent with the girl they belonged to, so it's been very pleasing.
 :guilty:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on May 27, 2010, 09:26:00 pm
Nice one Nibs. Pleased for you, a good way to start the summer season.  :bounce:  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on May 28, 2010, 10:53:59 am
YYFY - every time I go to Curbar I tell myself that this time I will do Strawberries - yesterday I finally did it!  :bounce: Subtle adjustment of the left foot and just latched the jug. What followed was a scene of hideous incompetence as I lost the ability to use my feet and hauled myself up using brute force and simple bloodymindedness that I was not going to fall off the problem at this point (again). Sorry to anyone who was unfortunate to see it.

 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 28, 2010, 11:38:32 am
Any views on grade? :)

Nice nemesis slaying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on May 28, 2010, 12:05:06 pm
Any views on grade? :)

Nice nemesis slaying.

Just take whatever the grade Sloper is giving it at the moment and ignore it - that's probably all you need to know.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Norton Sharley on May 28, 2010, 01:12:47 pm
5, maybe 5+  ;)

Nice one for doing it whatever the grade.  Hopefully it will feel easier next time!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tlr on May 28, 2010, 01:19:49 pm
And here is the man of the moment in action on the mighty Strawberries last night.

(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee345/TLR99/IMG_9985a.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Norton Sharley on May 28, 2010, 01:35:12 pm
definately 5+ hauling those 'burns up  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on May 28, 2010, 02:23:33 pm
Nice pic tlr - might have to get a copy to frighten small children with...  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on May 28, 2010, 04:08:06 pm
Not bouldering related, but YYFY just finished my first steadicam course yesterday, awesome, officially on my way to being able to add "cameraman" and steadicam operator to my skills list :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on May 28, 2010, 07:37:15 pm
And here is the man of the moment in action on the mighty Strawberries last night.

(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee345/TLR99/IMG_9985a.jpg)

Nice one, shame I wasn't there to banter you into falling off the top move :lol:

Anyway, those boards are a bit 1970's, or is it a case of mistaken identity and Peter Cushing is crushing the grit.

As I said yoof, well done, this is a big step forwards, it'll really help you on the 4+'s come Font in September. :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on May 28, 2010, 07:53:28 pm
Not climbing, sorry.

Wharncliffe, day off ( last friday of the month is a solid 10 hrs worth of meetings  :'(, I took it off to *pack the van* for en famille camping trip for the weekend...)

Before such duties... nipped out for a cathartic moment in the woods.

OMFG.

perfect cons, did everything there I've done before... well & with just enough *.... oh fuck...* moments in the air to really feel what FR MTB is about.

No falls, much excitement.

damn.. I love this... feeling very calm now  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 28, 2010, 10:35:11 pm
GET IN!
Just found out that a mates wedding in Brittany this August is less than 10km away from these babies!

(http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/images/image220.jpg)

Gite booked, E300  :thumbsup: Boulders near/on lovely beach = MrsTT approves  :great:

and got Marks Roof LH done today  :)

(cheers Tris for the info on the bouldering in Britanny..)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on May 28, 2010, 11:52:45 pm
And here is the man of the moment in action on the mighty Strawberries last night.

(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee345/TLR99/IMG_9985a.jpg)
MAGNETO
(http://moviesmedia.ign.com/movies/image/article/704/704451/x3-magneto1_1146613536.jpg)

Couldnt be arsed with finding the looky likey thread!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on May 29, 2010, 01:14:07 am

Nice one, shame I wasn't there to banter you into falling off the top move :lol:

Anyway, those boards are a bit 1970's, or is it a case of mistaken identity and Peter Cushing is crushing the grit.

As I said yoof, well done, this is a big step forwards, it'll really help you on the 4+'s come Font in September. :-[

Thank fuck you weren't there with your banter - with my footwork and your motivational speaking to help me along they would have found one of my shoes in Stoney Middleton and the other on the roof of your house!

The boards are more 1820's - father of the Clifton Suspension Bridge 'boards those babies - all I need now is a big top hat!

Font in September - you getting the fear you punter?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on May 30, 2010, 11:42:26 pm
bit of a YYFY moment, did jerrys arete at kebs today.
have always wanted to do this problem since I first saw it many, many years ago.
I have been back to it twice since then and both times it rained as soon as we got there.
Today was nearly the same but the rain seemed to skirt round to the south of us and we got a team send as well.
Bloody windy mind
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on May 30, 2010, 11:43:55 pm
Nice one Kes
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on May 31, 2010, 07:51:21 am
Nice one Jim.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Zods Beard on May 31, 2010, 06:58:22 pm
Get in, nice one Jim.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on May 31, 2010, 07:04:28 pm
Good effort, that's one I need to get done.  And that damned Cheesblock Arete- 7a+ my arse.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on May 31, 2010, 07:15:16 pm
got spanked on that cheeseblock arete again.
its got to be 8b
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on May 31, 2010, 07:21:04 pm
I've fallen off with both hands over the top a few times, just too tired to do the mantel :lol:
I'll gladly take 8b for the bugger.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on May 31, 2010, 08:14:12 pm
YYFY!!!!!!

Had my first day of trad this year - which was cause for celebration enough (only the second day this year I've used a rope).  But then amazed myself by leading The Wall of Horrors and The Big Greeny. 

Absolutely made-up.  I'm in recovery from surgery and still feeling a bit frail, so my plan had been to gently reacquaint myself with my rack by re-doing VS/HVSs etc.  But.... my partner for the day wanted to "warm-up" by leading Grand Illusion and, in the aftermath of those exertions, my opting to potter about was never going to suffice... the die was cast.  Just goes to show... sometimes a metaphorical kick-up-the-arse and the fear of disappointing someone is worth far more than any amount of sensible forethought and  patiently accrued mileage.

Right... I'm now off to the garage to fetch something highly alcoholic.... and sod tomorrow being a work day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 31, 2010, 08:23:15 pm
F*ck me Moose - thats one hell of a re-introduction to Trad... good effort!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2010, 11:07:47 am
Nice Moose. Two big ticks. Always psyched myself out of doing WoH, as I didn't want to fail on it, and kept on putting it off. Miles off doing it now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 02, 2010, 12:20:47 pm
I've done Big Greenie. Really pleasant route, not what I expected at all.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 02, 2010, 12:50:49 pm
Hopefully our tick of North West Girdle didn't get in your way, Moose.

Your partners solo of Wall of Horrors was pretty special to see. The guy is quite obviously a true Almscliff Aficionado.

And well done by the way!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 02, 2010, 01:17:00 pm
I finally managed to do The Beauty of Being Numb today after falling off the move to the pocket sooo many times.
I've tried it occasionally for many years and it's always felt hard to me.  After a few proper sessions on it in the last few weeks I finally sketched to glory.  YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 02, 2010, 01:21:57 pm
Well done for not ripping the crimp off fat man.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on June 02, 2010, 05:13:02 pm
Hopefully our tick of North West Girdle didn't get in your way, Moose.
Your partners solo of Wall of Horrors was pretty special to see. The guy is quite obviously a true Almscliff Aficionado.
And well done by the way!

Ahhhh.... I was wondering whether you were a fellow ukb'er.  Of course your girdle traverse didn't get in the way.... having a captive audience probably helped spur me on (at the trad grades I climb, my problem is generally a lack of will).  By the way, sorry if I appeared in any way surly, I was a bit preoccupied... well, terrified is more accurate.  The prospect of roped climbing for the first time in ages was bad enough... but factor in ill-health and feeling compelled to try a route that scared/inspired me.....

I was impressed that you did the girdle: there's something fantastically old-skool about it.  It's only after I've seen you on it that I appreciate the situation and sustained fun it looks to offer - a proper day out.  I now really want to give it a go myself some day, and not just for the sake of a Hard Rock tick!

Re Martin..... he practically lives at Almscliff and always ends up soloing stuff, often at frighteningly close grade to what he leads (and usually when knackered after a hard day!).   Impressive but scary - especially on Wall of Horrors with his dynamic off/on looking sequence.  He made a film about soloing called Lines of Flight that played at the UK festivals and is currently entered at Vancouver, there's a link to a trailer below.  The funding was obtained via an academic social sciences grant - hence the artsy / philosphical tone:

http://www.vimff.org/msg.asp?portalid=3&pageid=45&news=15&caid={981BE0BE-CB90-420E-95A6-88BE06982371} (http://www.vimff.org/msg.asp?portalid=3&pageid=45&news=15&caid={981BE0BE-CB90-420E-95A6-88BE06982371})
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 02, 2010, 08:03:35 pm
Get in, second year architorture finished. Look forward to seeing home boys and home girls to crush soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 02, 2010, 08:38:55 pm
Hopefully our tick of North West Girdle didn't get in your way, Moose.
Your partners solo of Wall of Horrors was pretty special to see. The guy is quite obviously a true Almscliff Aficionado.
And well done by the way!

Ahhhh.... I was wondering whether you were a fellow ukb'er.  Of course your girdle traverse didn't get in the way.... having a captive audience probably helped spur me on (at the trad grades I climb, my problem is generally a lack of will).  By the way, sorry if I appeared in any way surly, I was a bit preoccupied... well, terrified is more accurate.  The prospect of roped climbing for the first time in ages was bad enough... but factor in ill-health and feeling compelled to try a route that scared/inspired me.....

I was impressed that you did the girdle: there's something fantastically old-skool about it.  It's only after I've seen you on it that I appreciate the situation and sustained fun it looks to offer - a proper day out.  I now really want to give it a go myself some day, and not just for the sake of a Hard Rock tick!

Re Martin..... he practically lives at Almscliff and always ends up soloing stuff, often at frighteningly close grade to what he leads (and usually when knackered after a hard day!).   Impressive but scary - especially on Wall of Horrors with his dynamic off/on looking sequence.  He made a film about soloing called Lines of Flight that played at the UK festivals and is currently entered at Vancouver, there's a link to a trailer below.  The funding was obtained via an academic social sciences grant - hence the artsy / philosphical tone:

http://www.vimff.org/msg.asp?portalid=3&pageid=45&news=15&caid={981BE0BE-CB90-420E-95A6-88BE06982371} (http://www.vimff.org/msg.asp?portalid=3&pageid=45&news=15&caid={981BE0BE-CB90-420E-95A6-88BE06982371})

Loved that trailer.

The Girdle's a great route. The climbing is never 3 star quality but its reasonably sustained and always interesting. I've always thought the North West side of Almscliff was the home to the true quality. Routes like Overhanging Groove, Z Climb, Central Climb, Z Climb Eliminate, Big Greeny, Great Western, Franklands etc are all so good and full of history and character and they're all packed into such a tiny bit of rock! The girdle encapsulates them all perfectly and the whole experience is an absolute must.

In fact I think I'd go as far to say that its the best route that I've done (or one of them!) at Almscliff just because it sums up everything that's so fantastic about the Almscliff trad experience so well and in a way that isn't over in a flash, as so many grit routes are, but can be savoured over a few hours.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on June 03, 2010, 10:39:35 am
Not climbing related :off: but son no2 arrived at 1.30am this morning. All bouncing 8lb 13 of him  :o  :great:  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2010, 10:46:53 am
Nice one Andy.

Announcements go here - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8014.125.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8014.125.html)

Unless you don't believe he has wad potential.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 03, 2010, 11:08:01 am
Good effort to Mrs F   ;)

Congrats.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grimer on June 03, 2010, 12:34:49 pm
Did Loopy at Wilton last night. It kicked my ass good style last year, and became the route i most wanted to do in 2010.

Also saw in an interview in Climb mag that it was Hanq Paskill's favourite new route. Having lowered off it for the second time last year a local smugly informed me that Hanq had done it in his winqelpickqers.

"Fuck Hank Pasquill" i told him. Not that I meant it, I just wanted to know what it felt like to shout that in Wilton Quarry. I stood there for a bit, waiting to get hit by lightning or a loose block.

Lived up to expectations. One of the best E4s I ever did  :)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 03, 2010, 12:39:29 pm
Good work Jim  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 05, 2010, 01:15:58 am
Nice work grimenator. Surprised you didn't get struck down. I've often thought the same thing at the bottom of the routes, but never dared shout it out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on June 08, 2010, 01:55:57 pm
yyfy 1-4-7 half crimped for the very first time last night  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on June 08, 2010, 09:01:28 pm
I'm confused.  I thought you could do 1-5-9? Or is that only open handed?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chummer on June 08, 2010, 09:32:04 pm
A little  :off: But Leftfield in Sheffield on Sunday. Been waiting a few years for that one.   ;D Short but oh so sweet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 08, 2010, 09:38:31 pm
Nice one G-Dawg. That was always on my list before I moved away. Well it still is I guess. Maybe I need a Lancs Lightning hit. I had a great day with Ms Cider Nutcase doing 3 x 3 star x E3 6as in one afternoon (Swine, Wilton Wall, White Slabs Bunt). Was going to do the same with 4 x 3 x 4 (Loopy, Isle Of White, Adrenaline and Masterspy/Direct). Ah Wilton.......truly the finest of crags.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on June 09, 2010, 03:19:33 pm
I'm confused.  I thought you could do 1-5-9? Or is that only open handed?

I've only ever really been able to 1-5-8, but that's open handed. I've always been supremely weak half crimped so am dead chuffed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 09, 2010, 03:24:47 pm
 :shrug: If you can do something open-handed surely it should be easier half-crimped?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on June 09, 2010, 03:33:01 pm
I've always been supremely weak half crimped

  ??? :-\

Your version of supremely weak is very different to mine ...

 :great: though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 09, 2010, 03:50:33 pm
I've always been supremely weak half crimped

  ??? :-\

Your version of supremely weak is very different to mine ...

 :great: though

Indeed. I can barely do 1 - 2 - 3. It's not as easy as....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on June 09, 2010, 04:11:14 pm
:shrug: If you can do something open-handed surely it should be easier half-crimped?

Depends on what you're used to really, I always used to (and still do) drag small holds most of the time because I'm pretty lazy. Half-crimp requires more muscle, but is definately a stronger grip for a lot of holds.

Crimped would definately be easier than open, but my fingers just don't like it.

Maybe I'm just special  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pitcairn on June 09, 2010, 04:22:19 pm
Horses for courses I guess.  I can do 1-4-7 fairly consistently fully crimped but cant do it half crimped and can barely even hang the rungs open handed!

 ???
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 10, 2010, 07:10:34 pm
Horses for courses I guess.  I can do 1-4-7 fairly consistently fully crimped but cant do it half crimped and can barely even hang the rungs open handed!

 ???

I don't really campus (with my predisposition for getting injured, it's just not worth it) <i>but</i> I'm waay stronger open handed than half or full crimped.

In fact, on the beastmaker I had to add a finger to be able to half crimp over what I can hang open handed!

I pretty much don't crimp when I'm climbing though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamesD on June 12, 2010, 04:52:25 pm
A bit of a delayed YYFY as it happened on Wednesday....

But I worked 70% of a V2 problem indoors, mostly pinches and crimps (which I am historically shite at), so feels like a big leap forward for me  ;D

However my biceps/arms are still feeling it today  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: youngy on June 12, 2010, 05:26:11 pm
YYFY
had an amazing day at woodwell yesterday.
Managed to get 2 7a+'s done in a session
did Nothing To Say Dyno and Sanctified Strong!!
feeling like all the training is paying off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 13, 2010, 12:12:55 am
Yes yes mark you beast! Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 13, 2010, 09:01:46 am
Exactly a year since I kicked the smokes, done  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on June 13, 2010, 11:01:58 pm
... duncan seems to be succeeding on his goal of spending his <big number> birthday high on the Salathe ... remarkably also with a woman who is not his wife. As far as I can tell from elcapreport (http://www.elcapreport.com) they would have topped out by now but are waiting out numerous rapped-in Sponsored Hero's clogging up the headwall cracks

Thanks!  Mostly true.  The stately progress was entirely down to lack of fitness and ability.  El Cap report was a touch pessimistic as we, gloriously, had the route to ourselves the entire time except for a rest day we took on The Block ledge which was a bit mad (we were passed by two parties going up, one rapping down and some sponsored heroes going up and then back down).  A real YYFY moment as it was a very long-held ambition. 

Freerider and El Corazon are now trade routes getting regular ascents this spring.  There is potential for many more free routes on El Cap. with a number of people working on projects (and huge potential elsewhere in the valley).  Where are the good British climbers?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 14, 2010, 07:35:23 pm
Black Cuillin Ridge Traverse in 12hrs 20mins  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 14, 2010, 08:28:52 pm
Good work Will, bet that was a great day out :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on June 14, 2010, 10:44:42 pm
Things are starting to look up! I managed to tick off Powerband and Powerhumps in the same session on Friday and after a night in the cave had an ascent of Lou Ferrino in the bag before 9am on Sunday. YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 15, 2010, 11:04:08 am
Quote
Black Cuillin Ridge Traverse in 12hrs 20mins

Road to road or top to top? Good effort either way, its eluded me so far.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on June 15, 2010, 11:30:56 am
after a night in the cave had an ascent of Lou Ferrino in the bag before 9am on Sunday. YYFY!

Jeez! Maybe the earliest ever ascent, i take it the sun wasn't shining!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 15, 2010, 02:02:26 pm
Quote
Black Cuillin Ridge Traverse in 12hrs 20mins

Road to road or top to top? Good effort either way, its eluded me so far.

Cheers. That was top to top.

Left Glenbrittle at 3. GB for 5:20. Led the TD Gap and King's Chimney and Naismith's and soloed everything else.

The annoying thing is is that I know I could take hours off that with good conditions again and am now itching to get back there!

Some friends did it the same day and are much more confident at soloing than I and they soloed the lot. Downclimbing the In Pinn et al! I think knowing that I could solo all the up bits and just take an ab rope the time would come down but on first appearance the rock pitches all look nails!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 15, 2010, 02:34:14 pm
You're always going to make routefinding errors. Making the Slig for last orders is the only time limit that matters. Have soloed all of it but the TD gap, though I'm not sure I'd ever leave the rope behind.  Getting me psyched for another crack at it now...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 15, 2010, 02:38:14 pm
Yeah, me too.  Tried once a few years back and got rained off at the TD.  Very annoyed :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on June 15, 2010, 02:51:52 pm
Some friends did it the same day and are much more confident at soloing than I and they soloed the lot. Downclimbing the In Pinn et al!

Assuming you've got a rope for getting into the TD Gap, then I would have thought it would be quicker to ab off the back of the In Pin than down climb it anyway?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on June 15, 2010, 03:00:49 pm

Going to try doing the Cuillin traverse in a day next month, but given that it's our first time on it I'm not really expecting to make it. Any tips on making it more likely, like the real problem areas with route finding or parts where it's worth taking an easy line rather than stay true to the ridge?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 15, 2010, 03:31:46 pm
Quote
I would have thought it would be quicker to ab off the back of the In Pin than down climb it

Doubt it, its only about 30ft of HVD/ S, with only one tricky section. Its the unpacking, uncoiling etc of the rope/ harness that takes the time. Very long time since I did the TD though, presumably its piss as only remember being glad I had a rope.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fiveknuckle21 on June 15, 2010, 04:31:29 pm
after a night in the cave had an ascent of Lou Ferrino in the bag before 9am on Sunday. YYFY!

Jeez! Maybe the earliest ever ascent, i take it the sun wasn't shining!

She was tickling the holds in between the clouds!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on June 15, 2010, 07:34:29 pm

Going to try doing the Cuillin traverse in a day next month, but given that it's our first time on it I'm not really expecting to make it. Any tips on making it more likely, like the real problem areas with route finding or parts where it's worth taking an easy line rather than stay true to the ridge?

Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Gillean took me 12 hours. It was 'onsight' (I'd done S n G from the Slig. before) and on my own.  I was very unfit and slowed a lot towards the end.  I included Dubh Mor and, with hindsight, probably shouldn’t have as it added a good 45 minutes and felt like a diversion.  With good hill fitness 9 hours top-to-top would be reasonable but, like the man says, getting to the Sligachan for last orders is the only time that matters.

I thought the best logistic advice was on Bob Wightman’s website (http://www.bobwightman.co.uk/climb/skye_ridge.php).  I used Andy Hyslop's Rockfax pdf. guide and had no major route-finding issues.  I wore an old pair of Walshes resoled with dotty stealth, which worked well.  I carried 4 litres of water (barely enough), snacks (not enough) and a light waterproof top.  If the weather craps out you are going to bail anyway and as you're never more than 2 hours from the road I chose not to carry lots of clothing.

I don’t do much walking and probably should have done a lot more slogging up hills beforehand. I enjoy soloing easy mountain routes (all the Tryfan E. Face classics would make a good warm-up) and being comfortable with all the scrambling helped a lot. If this sounds like you, you might not bother with a rope.  One short 9mm and a few slings and nuts between you all is the maximum you should need.  The most dangerous bits are the long stretches of exposed, unroped scrambling which will be safer with a light pack.  The only places I slightly missed a rope were down-climbing into the TD gap, (HS-ish in decent, a bit rude at 7am), and on Naismith's (VDiff, allegedly) when I was knackered and the wind was up.  You could avoid the TD gap to the south-west quite easily, King's Chimney could be avoided via the Collie ledge but is easy (albeit very impressive).  The Inn Pinn is easy to reverse (Mod? but very exposed). 

The real crux is getting the weather: if the forecast (http://www.mwis.org.uk/nw.php) looks good, just drop everything and go.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on June 15, 2010, 08:08:01 pm

Good knowledge Duncan, much appreciated   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 15, 2010, 08:28:10 pm
True about the weather being the crux. We did bags of preparation before ours. We stripped down everything to be as light as possible and spent the night before carb loading and drinking plenty of water to make sure we started fully hydrated. With hindsight I could have taken much less rack. Half a set of nuts and slings will do you just fine. I could have done with less water. Started with 3 and a bit litres each and drank a litre on the way to the Lochan in Ghrunnda then filled that up. Got to Gillean with 2 litres of water undrunk! I'm the only person I know of who didn't have a massive problem with water shortage though and this is probably because on our day it only got really hot for 3 hours in the heat of the day.

I'll PM you with some extra beta.

There were some memorable quotes from our buddy who soloed it that day. On leaving the campsite he popped a nut key in his pocket "for collecting all the punter gear". On arrival at the Slig he looked fit to keel over and die. "That was a fucking massive walk for 3 pitches of Diff"  :lol:

Also, don't expect the lady behind the bar in the Sligachan to be friendly to people who look like they've come in off the Ridge. I'm pretty easy going and I found her manner to be grossly rude!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 15, 2010, 08:31:20 pm
Also, don't expect the lady behind the bar in the Sligachan to be friendly to people who look like they've come in off the Ridge. I'm pretty easy going and I found her manner to be grossly rude!

Gotta love highland hospitality.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 15, 2010, 09:38:44 pm
Went to Harmer's wood for the first time with Ben as part of my dodgy arm rehab. I received the grand tour and all was fine with the arm... on top of this I managed to repeat lots of good lines including Harmadillo and Baby Bloc. It really is brilliant climbing and a lovely venue.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 15, 2010, 10:54:18 pm
The pics look boss. Can't wait to check it out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 16, 2010, 07:48:09 am
It really is brilliant climbing and a lovely venue.

Yeah it was a boss evening, with good conditions for this time of year.  Next week we'll take more brushes and get more stuff really clean.

NB:  Hopefully Mr Popp will be out too, which will mean good sandbagging.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 16, 2010, 09:04:13 am
It really is brilliant climbing and a lovely venue.

Yeah it was a boss evening, with good conditions for this time of year.  Next week we'll take more brushes and get more stuff really clean.

NB:  Hopefully Mr Popp will be out too, which will mean good sandbagging.

Glad you enjoyed it Richie, sounds like you had a very good session. I might do an early morning session. Desperately need to find my psyche, which has gone AWOL somewhere.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 16, 2010, 12:05:44 pm
Oh no Andy! Don't worry, t's probably the warmth and recent difficulties getting out climbing.  We'll sort that out.  What are you doing Thursday afternoon?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 16, 2010, 12:21:57 pm
An hour with Crouch and BenF will sort you out. Their ADHD is genuinely infectious.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on June 16, 2010, 12:28:38 pm
The pics look boss. Can't wait to check it out.
Where are these pictures? Keen to see them
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 16, 2010, 12:40:04 pm
I've got one on my camera phone but I'm sure team Farley-Popp can help you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 16, 2010, 05:14:39 pm
Just some stuff from the long awaited guidebook. I'd ask Andy or Ben for the real deal.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 16, 2010, 05:25:07 pm
Where are these pictures? Keen to see them

Hiya Dave.  I'll try and get some photos up on here at some point as I've been taking a few shots for the guide (apologies in advance if I star in too many of the photos but no other f*ckers have come out to meet me lately).  Its a well cool little crag with plenty of very good highballs in a beautiful wood.  Bit like Pex but steeper and with smaller holds.  And more aretes. 

I'm kinda motivated at the moment to get this guide sorted quickly because there's so much new stuff that needs traffic and attention, but we need to make sure we do a really good job of it.  I can't wait for more people to get on our stuff at Harmer's now Crouch has been and been impressed.  However, Andy and I want to rewrite the sections on the Harmer's Wood quarries and I'm not sure how the sections on other Cheshire esoteria are doing (Andy?).  Plus, the Frogsmouth bit is being rewritten following the bolting and I know there are a couple of little bits outstanding for the Wirral.  So Niall, if you read this, we're on the case, getting more photos (I've taken topo shots for Harmer's now too) and making sure all the quality new stuff gets in the bumper book of sandstone fun.  Oh shit yeah, I could do with writing up the Pex eliminates too...

But yeah, I'll attempt to put some shots on here soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 16, 2010, 05:39:50 pm
Just over 5 weeks since surgery and I'm allowed to walk again. Get in!  :great:  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 16, 2010, 06:22:46 pm
As an aside: what exactly is being awaited from Wirral? Is it just the Breck stuff?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on June 16, 2010, 07:46:59 pm
I managed to do a few pull ups on the board tonight as well as a few hangs. As long as there isn't too much pain/bleeding then I'll do more tomorrow and so on. First time doing anything since cutting top of my thumb off 10 days ago :)
Not a great YYFN in the grand scheme of things, but as Baudrillard said "context is everything"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 16, 2010, 08:36:49 pm
Not a great YYFN in the grand scheme of things...

Yeah Yeah FuckNO!   ;)

Nice one bud, I knew you'd be back on it sooner than your thought!  :thumbsup:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 17, 2010, 07:49:44 am
As an aside: what exactly is being awaited from Wirral? Is it just the Breck stuff?

No, I think the Breck if done.  I understand that there are a few otehr venues being written up.  However, I know nothing more than that; the Wirral being positively foreign to me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on June 17, 2010, 10:42:31 am
Cheers Ben, look forward to seeing the pics.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 21, 2010, 02:23:00 pm
Sorry about the wait Dave (and others), but here's a few photos of Harmer's Wood from the other day.  Thought I'd put them on this thread because a) this is where people will probably look, and b) they don't really fit anywhere else (quality photos they are not) and it seems daft starting another thread just so a few people can see photos of an esoteric bit of Cheshire.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4718629156_1a8fe21552.jpg)
A shot giving the general feel of the main quarry.  You can see most of the main walls in this photo.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4718630240_9380a66c73.jpg)
Rich climbing Babyblock.  A fantastic problem at around 7a+ or 7b... he's just completed one of the best moves in Cheshire!  The arete to the right is one of the best of the aretes in the main quarry.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4717986181_48f3f36cca.jpg)
Low grade crack fun being climbed by a low grade crack whore.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4717981517_eb719dbfe6.jpg)
Me on a brilliant slab, although it's a bit steeper than the palm down would suggest.  This is one of the problems climbed by the earlier developers, before Andy and I got stuck in.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4717977995_a8401d2923.jpg)
A photo from the smaller quarry.  Although smaller, it is pretty highball!  You get the fear topping these bad boys out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 21, 2010, 02:34:11 pm
The arete looks ace in the first pic. What's the sign on the tree, a warning not to hit it if you fall off.

Some topouts look um challenging.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 21, 2010, 02:47:39 pm
Bastard. Twenty years in Cheshire and I never heard of this place. It looks like Nesscliffe for boulderers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 21, 2010, 02:49:46 pm
On the whole the top outs are fine, just a few needed excavating and a couple need a hanging rope in the smaller quarry.  Trees/roots on the top can also help if the top is particularly dirty or overgrown.

The sign was put up by the trust who own the wood, to remind climbers not to belay off the fence.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tc on June 21, 2010, 03:00:05 pm
Bastard. Twenty years in Cheshire and I never heard of this place. It looks like Nesscliffe for boulderers.

Likewise, an entire mis-spent youth on Merseyside sandstone and I've never been to Harmers Wood. Where is it??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on June 21, 2010, 03:30:03 pm
Wow, this place looks great!

Good work Ben (and Andy).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on June 21, 2010, 03:36:02 pm
Wow, this place looks great!

Good work Ben (and Andy).

I second that, looks brill, good work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on June 21, 2010, 03:44:56 pm
I just googled it and found this on someones flickr. Having not been to helsby, is this more potential new route stuff?...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51827103@N00/3517743195# (http://www.flickr.com/photos/51827103@N00/3517743195#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: wiain on June 21, 2010, 04:00:31 pm
The arete looks ace in the first pic.
:agree:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 21, 2010, 04:02:07 pm
Well done for getting these up Ben.

Glad everyone likes the look, in fact (and this is no criticism of Ben) the photos don't quite do it full justice. To start with, its higher than it looks in most of these, tho' like Ben says, most top-outs are fine.

Chris, the arete in the first photo is the also in second shot but from the other side, brilliant, about V2 5c? In the first shot the obvious line of chalked holds immediately left of Richie is stunning V4, the best highball in Cheshire? In total there are about 40 problems, the vast majority completely non-eliminate. The setting is idyllic. Guided tours gladly given

There is some new route potential but I have one project I'd like respecting for at least at little bit as its taken quite a bit of cleaning (digging the topout etc.) and I haven't been able to try it properly yet. Pretty please?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 21, 2010, 04:12:37 pm
There is some new route potential but I have one project I'd like respecting for at least at little bit as its taken quite a bit of cleaning (digging the topout etc.) and I haven't been able to try it properly yet. Pretty please?

Do you need something to pull you out of the motivation lacking doldrums? Surely a project under threat should do it? :)

Some of theose corners look like they could produce some fun bridging technical trickery.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 21, 2010, 04:23:37 pm
Right, thanks to JB saying 'bastard' in his reply, I can't access this page at work! So I'm using my phone.

As andy says, it is better than it looks, although it can be a bit mossy in places. And as JB said, its like a mini nesscliffe for boulderers. Kind of like pex but with smaller holds and no scallies.

The amazing v4 that andy mentioned is truly wonderful and I think I have a photo or two of it, so I'll try and get it up on here too.  As for the photo probes linked to, I don't recognise it, but andy and I do have other sandstone gems up our sleeves (mostly due to andy's hard work to be honest).

And chris, the corners look fun, but they generally disappoint. The quality is in the harder wall climbs really. The aretes are great but easy, the walls are where its at. Tiny edges and monos.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 21, 2010, 04:25:30 pm
Where is it? I'd love to go and have a look and climb..  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TomP on June 21, 2010, 04:57:27 pm
This does look great. I'm moving south for a bit and need places like this for the weekend climbing commute. Can you give us some directions or should we wait for the topo?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 21, 2010, 07:24:16 pm
The topo is to be within the forthcoming BMC Cheshire guide, but I'm not sure when it'll be done.  Until then, it's easy to find...

Harmers Wood is located just behind Helsby Hill.  Approaching Helsby on the A 56 from Frodham turn left on to Old Chester Road at the end of the long straight and after you have passed Helsby High School.  After a bend turn left onto Bates Lane and after 500 metres turn steeply right onto Hill Road North and park up at a small car park (with a big sign) just after a sharp bend.  Enter the woods on the obvious path and turn left on a subsidiary path after 50 metres.  The main quarry is obvious.

Andy and I will obviously be offering guided tours to anyone keen to climb there, if we can make it.  However, its far too hot to climb anything that hard at Harmer's at the moment.  Autumn will be a good time to get there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 21, 2010, 07:42:15 pm
 :o :o :o

That looks incredible!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on June 21, 2010, 09:50:47 pm
Looks fab  :great:. Will deffo head up sometime, baby and Limestone permitting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Steamboat Stello on June 21, 2010, 10:49:50 pm
Incroyable! Wheres this place been hiding! Looks like it might be quite sheltered in sunnier conditions. Whats the best weather for a visit?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 22, 2010, 06:17:47 am
Unfortunately it seems to get sun all day and is very sheltered from the wind - combined with a thin, just-off vertical face style (hence difficulty in trying my project, which has some very dirty crimping). So not now basically. Spring and autumn; there are seepage points that need to dry back after the winter.

A few points now the cat is out of the bag. Locals seem to have a good opinion of climbers thanks in no small part to the careful diplomacy of people like  Martin Boysen and Tom Leppert who have been quietly enjoying the crag for literally decades. The woods are now owned and maintained by a trust of local people (who stepped in when it looked like developers were going to buy the woods) who have invested a lot of time and effort in securing funding for the purchase, clearing undergrowth, fencing off the top of the main quarry, installing a bench and table at the entrance to woods etc. The woods are quiet and unspoilt and enjoyed by many locals, esp. dog walkers. So its important we behave well here - basic normal etiquette. In particular:

- its common to meet walkers on the steep, narrow and often blind lane up to the woods; drive slowly
- park sensibly
- don't tie ropes to or otherwise damage the fences installed round the top of the quarry; they are there to stop children, dogs etc. falling
- you are pretty hidden when in the quarry but loud whoops of victory, cursing etc would be heard by anyone walking in the woods

Sorry to sound preachy. Ben and I may be there this evening
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 22, 2010, 08:03:03 am
Well said Andy re: the woodland.  I'd add to this that the trust are generally very keen to see climbers using the quarry, as long as we look after the place.  They have (and continue to) put a lot of work into raising fundsd to buy the place and then clearing the place up, with the intention of it being used by a range of different users (it helps the trust with funding applications if they can demonstrate that different groups use the wood).  Only last week I met up with some of the trust who were keen to know if they can make it even better for climbing - this could include removing dying trees and rubbish.  The cleared area with the log seats is intended as an "outdoor classroom" and groups from my school have already used the wood for short visits. 

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on June 22, 2010, 08:34:37 am
It really is a lovely spot and t'would be a shame if access were to be jeopardised by foolish behaviour. Glad the cat's out of the bag! Good work to all involved  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SpanishJuan on June 22, 2010, 08:55:33 am
Bugger, I went there a few months ago and thought how nice it was to have a peaceful crag mainly to myself and the missus. oh well, at least I got to enjoy the "easy arêtes" without uber wads  :lol: at my flailing ... once :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 22, 2010, 09:25:17 am
Bugger, I went there a few months ago and thought how nice it was to have a peaceful crag mainly to myself and the missus.

Don't worry, I doubt it'll ever be that busy.  I think it will remain pretty esoteric as it's out of people's way and not really the kind of crag people tend to boulder at these days (ie it's not grit or the cave).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 22, 2010, 10:48:10 am
Do all the lines in the small quarry top out? Surely trad grades are applied? How hard are they generally? Much potential at amenable grades?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SpanishJuan on June 22, 2010, 10:57:35 am
Don't worry, I doubt it'll ever be that busy.  I think it will remain pretty esoteric as it's out of people's way and not really the kind of crag people tend to boulder at these days (ie it's not grit or the cave).

but as its only about 1/4 the size of Pex  (ish..) it would easily fill up
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 22, 2010, 11:31:24 am
Do all the lines in the small quarry top out? Surely trad grades are applied? How hard are they generally? Much potential at amenable grades?

The line Ben is on in the photo from the 'small' quarry (less extensive but higher) doesn't top out beacause its loose as hell up top at that point - you can go to either the first or the second diagonal. The feint rib left of him leading to the end of the diagonal does the same - really good problem at maybe V5/6. Out of shot left again the wall is about 30' but has a good topout, this contains a 'V4' and a 'V6'. Generally, Harmers excels at V0 - V6/7

Mods, maybe this should be split off in to a new thread (starting with Ben's post with the pictures) in one of the baby boards - topos or beta?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 22, 2010, 12:30:21 pm
What Andy says, except that the lines in the small quarry that finish on the loose stuff are probably best topping out using a hanging rope rather than down climbing or jumping off.  Much more satisfying I'd say.  The high lines that finish on more solid stuff are probably best considered as very highball problems.  Don't fall off from the top!

We've given everything bouldering grades so far and to be honest it's only a few lines in the small quarry that stretch this concept really.  For consistency and the fact that they are still only about 6-7 metres high, I think they should be left with boulder grades.  One look should tell anyone thinking of climbing them that they're a bit high to be jumping off from high up.  Harmers, and other local venues like Frodsham, are bouldering venues and within the broad church of bouldering there are always going to be some very high problems best suited to a soloing mentality.  To give these unprotected problems an E grade seems a bit odd to me.  They're not actually that high, they have good landings, a couple of pads make them pretty safe to a certain extent, and if people don't fancy soloing these few really high lines; leave them alone, or top-rope them like you would at Pex.


However, I welcome your thoughts...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on June 22, 2010, 12:46:28 pm
Is the low level traverse any good? I'm wondering about the likelihood that I'll end up dropping in on spec without a pad while driving home from a family visit in England (plus, I love those forearm melting Brownstones/West Vale style crabathons).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 22, 2010, 12:49:07 pm
Fair play chaps, looks most excellent  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on June 22, 2010, 12:50:56 pm
Now that you've mentioned Tom leppert this makes a lot more sense. On a trip to Pabbay years ago, Tom teased me with tales of various secret sandstone crags. I could never quite tell if he was just bulling, and no matter how hard I pushed he wouldn't say where they were. Love to know about the other places too, especially after seeing the obvious quality of this venue.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 22, 2010, 12:54:18 pm
Is the low level traverse any good? I'm wondering about the likelihood that I'll end up dropping in on spec without a pad while driving home from a family visit in England (plus, I love those forearm melting Brownstones/West Vale style crabathons).

Do you mean today Simon? Because if so I could meet you there. Yes, there is a low level traverse that looks good in sections.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tris on June 22, 2010, 01:57:52 pm
Mods, maybe this should be split off in to a new thread (starting with Ben's post with the pictures) in one of the baby boards - topos or beta?
Andy - am I ok to add the details to the Cheshire Wiki? I have pm'd you.

Cheers
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on June 22, 2010, 01:59:43 pm
Great spot climbed there  alot with friends 20+ years ago!!!!! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 22, 2010, 02:44:50 pm
Great spot climbed there  alot with friends 20+ years ago!!!!! :thumbsup:

I figured you must have climbed there back in the day.  Did you do much in the smaller quarry?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on June 22, 2010, 03:04:51 pm
no just the main one i think!!! carnt  remember much we climbed all the aretes  and some wall routes but the most of these i think had been climbed before . One of the aretes was named 'demon of the seamen'!!!! as it was painted on the rock. I think mike collins and tom jones probably climbed there. dave 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pantontino on June 22, 2010, 03:53:08 pm
Is the low level traverse any good? I'm wondering about the likelihood that I'll end up dropping in on spec without a pad while driving home from a family visit in England (plus, I love those forearm melting Brownstones/West Vale style crabathons).

Do you mean today Simon? Because if so I could meet you there. Yes, there is a low level traverse that looks good in sections.

Not today, I'm afraid. Off up the Pass routing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on June 23, 2010, 07:49:09 am
Simon, give me a shout too if you fancy meeting up at Harmer's.  If you're pad-less, I'll have enough to go around.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chriss on June 23, 2010, 08:03:47 am
Could be in NNFN, but it's more appropriate here.

Just finishing my 3 month stay in Melbourne, in that time I  have had some fucking ace sessions bouldering in the Grampians. This place really deserves the hype and I may not crush big numbers, but it ranks up there as one of the best places in the word for problem quality & quantity & for over all atmosphere.

Anyone who is thinking of a trip over here won't be disappointed. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on June 23, 2010, 01:51:16 pm
Some further shufflings in the direction of recovery: recently returned from a long weekend in the Peak -  very tired but with a happily diminished tick list...

Friday saw me at Raven Torr where, in the culmination of a frankly embarrassing number of sessions, I finally managed Weedkiller Traverse.  Odd how easy it felt on the final go....  As if that wasn't enough, Basher's Problem and Rattle and Hump Start were also done - two problems that had given me almost as much angst.  Sheer madness ... I'm sure to pay for my good fortune wherewhere along the line.  Not even England's abject display against Algeria could dampen my spirits - I sat there grinning like a fool in the revealed truth of just how hard and far you can move off a pitiful smear!  Any ideas for future Raven projects by the way - I need reasons to return.

After that it was a couple of days of trad.  Nothing exceptional gradewise but I did some routes that I'd always wanted to do.  Highlights were Hawkwing, Commander Energy and Wombat at the Roaches and  Desperation and Black Hawk Bastion at Stanage.  All very good in their varied ways.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 23, 2010, 01:53:42 pm
Good work Moose!  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on June 23, 2010, 01:59:10 pm
Nice one word. Get on out of my tree start, or undercut-to-sloper next.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on June 23, 2010, 04:28:07 pm
Just scored an unused pair of V10's for £35. Miracles do happen!  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on June 24, 2010, 09:31:35 am
Last night I had my(long overdue) first visit to the Churnet. What a nice place. I was very impressed by Wrights Rock and had a great session. Can't wait to go back.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2010, 03:07:33 pm
not exactly climbing, but climbing related nonetheless.
I just received an email from the Italian editor of Big Ron's book, and it seems I won the contract for the Italian translation.
"Ronaldo Fossetti", innit? 
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 25, 2010, 03:20:20 pm
Siena's new giganticly handed goalkeeper?  ;D

Nice one Lore.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grimer on June 25, 2010, 04:35:25 pm
not exactly climbing, but climbing related nonetheless.
I just received an email from the Italian editor of Big Ron's book, and it seems I won the contract for the Italian translation.
"Ronaldo Fossetti", innit? 
 ;D

Last year at Arco Rockmaster I met Gio, the Italian translator of the Jerry book. He was a really nice guy.

But i asked him about translating it and he said,

"Yes, it was good, but for me... the language was a bit plain... maybe even boring. So i spice it up to make it a more interesting book."

I almost wet myself  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2010, 04:54:30 pm
ah ah!!!
I know Giovanni very well, he lives in my hometown and we've been climbing together many times. he's lived in Yorkshire for a while. he's a nice guy 'n all, but sometimes he can say something that lets you completely shocked.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on June 28, 2010, 05:54:28 pm
Another YYFY! weekend.

As a hedge against the inevitable football debacle, I endured a sweaty Sunday morning at Ilkley and bagged The Chariots of Fire Eliminate (supposedly f7b+).    It's taken a few sessions and far too many dropped finishing moves so I'm rather chuffed to finally get it (gets very bunched for a gangle-creature).  Worth a look for other fans of the gritstone, eliminate arse-drag genre - stays dry and is out of the sun.  Unfortunately, I now don't have any other projects that stand a chance of being done during sunny weather.  Unless anyones got beta for the Calf Traverse  - I've never been able to fathom a single move of that.

Also, on Saturday had a nice spot of tradding at Curbar.  Elder Crack was the highlight: energetic flailing up an off-width being just the thing for a sweltering day when you don't have any giant cams.... still who can resist a Hard Rock tick.  Soyuz and The Bear Hunter were also nice.  The latter is an E1ish face climb half-way to Froggat: lovely technical moves and highly recommended (not to be confused with the Beer Hunter).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Peanuts on June 30, 2010, 10:30:03 am
Just to record my own YYFY moment for the year so far. I can finally report that afer weeks of falling off the same move, I have finnaly completed 'Chimes' at the tor. No more frigging Knee pads, no  more bastard toe-heel locks and no more trying to hang slopers in 30 degree heat ...YYFY  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tc on July 01, 2010, 08:52:34 pm
not exactly climbing, but climbing related nonetheless.
I just received an email from the Italian editor of Big Ron's book, and it seems I won the contract for the Italian translation.
"Ronaldo Fossetti", innit? 
 ;D

Congratulations and welcome to the fellowship! Make sure they pay you well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 02, 2010, 10:46:38 am
Bagged my first 8a yesterday - The Ogre.

Let the downgrading begin.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 02, 2010, 10:50:40 am
Bagged my first 8a yesterday - The Ogre.

Let the downgrading begin.

 :bow: effort sir.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 02, 2010, 10:53:59 am
Good effort JB, got to be pleased with that  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on July 02, 2010, 11:06:37 am
nice one! 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on July 02, 2010, 11:07:21 am
Well done JB, what's next then?
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 02, 2010, 11:11:08 am
Well done JB, what's next then?
 ;D

Powerplant i reckon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on July 02, 2010, 11:17:55 am
Nice one. Did you do the final hard move off the crappy sidepull out left, or could you do it off the poorer undercuts to the left and a right drop knee / windmill?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 02, 2010, 11:19:43 am
I had forgotten folk dangle around on something far beyond them and then call it 'going climbing'.

Nice one Ron2  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on July 02, 2010, 01:09:19 pm
Effort beast. Seemed rock solid 8a for all but lanksters to me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nigel on July 02, 2010, 01:20:43 pm
Definately mid-7c+. Back around Long.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nigel on July 02, 2010, 01:37:27 pm
P.S. only joking. 8a and made it look easy. Bon effort.  :beer1: Soon to be the Cornice show pony by all accounts...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on July 02, 2010, 02:57:18 pm
Soon to be the Cornice show pony by all accounts...
Good, I think his diamond footwork will excel there, and I'll finally get to watch the enigma.
Did you get any photos of The Ogre Adam? I imagine it looks very good through a lens?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 02, 2010, 10:01:41 pm
Quote
Did you do the final hard move off the crappy sidepull out left, or could you do it off the poorer undercuts to the left and a right drop knee / windmill?
 

The main problem was I couldn't reach off the good footholds, so I used the high left sidepull to bump my right foot up onto a tiny nubbin, then went again with the left hand.

Quote
Did you get any photos of The Ogre Adam? I imagine it looks very good through a lens?

Not yet, but I agree. Psyched to get back with the camera. Trying to get some good stuff for the forthcoming guide.

Quote
what's next then?

Sitting on laurels for a while. Then one of the other 8s I reckon - still got E8, VIII, M8 and 8000m to go.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 05, 2010, 12:12:45 pm
Hopefully these YYFY's become climbing related between now and late September but I got my results just in and am sitting on 65% for 2nd year. A little step on the gas can hopefully nudge me into first territory which I desperately want. Was super happy with 78% for Urban Studies which I think was the highest mark in the year and told in my feedback the book review was worth publishing. End of boring academia report spiel. Time for summer of crush!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on July 09, 2010, 08:40:42 am
YYFY! Did Ben's Roof last night  ::) There have been times in the past when I couldn't imagine being able to hold that crimp. Finally worked out the swing-your-feet-across move last week then watched a few of the on-line vids to get beta on further footwork trickery. Add a knee pad into the mix and hey presto! 3 weeks till Rocklands... just need to remain uninjured  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Neil F on July 09, 2010, 12:14:24 pm
Congratulations Tom - brilliant effort....

.... (btw, what is Ben's Roof?).

Neil
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on July 09, 2010, 07:00:53 pm
After a long run into the end of term, injury and tiredness I played on the serious stuff today (the 50 deg board) instead of just pottering around on the bouldering wall at school (which admittedly does have problems up to 7b)

Anyways discovered that whilst the technique is the and the fingers are ok I have basically become weak...

Might sound a weird revelation for a YYFY thread but it has galvenised my summer break plans - no lazing about in bed, up with the nipper, breakfast and out to the board before the temperature gets ridiculous....

That and less football watching snacks now that the world cup is coming to an end  :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on July 09, 2010, 10:47:21 pm
.... (btw, what is Ben's Roof?).

Clicky (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ben%27s+roof)

Apologies, but I do love it a little too much  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 13, 2010, 09:17:59 pm
despite torrid temps and tiredness, I went to do the thing with the rope today.
the beastmaker session are clearly paying out, I did a 7c+, long pulls between two finger pockets, third go.
the elbow seems to be not too achey, so...
YYFY!!!
oh fuck when I think the injury may be over (finger crossed, touch wood and so on), and I can start pulling properly, oh fuckfuckfuck I'm so excited!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 13, 2010, 09:21:12 pm
ps. I obviously celebrated at home, eating a family's monthly supply in meat and now sipping whiskey. I could do this life so well...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 13, 2010, 10:09:59 pm
ps. I obviously celebrated at home, eating a family's monthly supply in meat and now sipping whiskey. I could do this life so well...
  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on July 14, 2010, 01:50:27 pm
Good shit Lore!

I had a yyfy today passing my driving test first go somehow so will probably be copying your plentiful red meat and alcohol plan this evening  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on July 14, 2010, 02:05:52 pm
I had a yyfy today passing my driving test first go

Yes yes yes.  Brilliant work Rich, well done mate.  So you're driving at the weekend then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: liam fyfe on July 14, 2010, 02:52:50 pm
yeh gud effort rich. now you can pop down and try the riot :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 14, 2010, 04:01:00 pm
Effort Crouch, no doubt be seeing you up this way more often!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on July 14, 2010, 04:03:53 pm
The GPS will recognise Parisella's and Trowbarrow/Woodwell... this is all  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 14, 2010, 04:18:37 pm
Get in Crouchie!!! Super pleased for you home boy. Just add the garage to your GPS POI's and you're in business.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 14, 2010, 04:20:37 pm
ahh, fuck the garage. who needs a house when your gps takes you to the cave?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 14, 2010, 08:12:08 pm
This much is true.... This much is true.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 14, 2010, 08:28:16 pm
Parisella's ain't much use if your big end goes though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 14, 2010, 08:30:08 pm
Come again gc??? There's many big ends of sorts this end ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 14, 2010, 08:32:35 pm
So Crouch claims, but I still don't believe him.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 14, 2010, 08:37:38 pm
I've seen it. It's comparable to two Atlantic prawns laid end to end. And a similar shape too.

Let's know when you're heading out Crouchie. I'm looking forward to seeing your driving style.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 14, 2010, 08:44:25 pm
Just worked out why Richie prefers the Cave to a garage

Bad Driver (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDbF50RNPYg#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris20 on July 15, 2010, 10:22:53 am

YYFY after a few email exchanges, the higher powers at the research institute where I am doing my PhD and live have allowed me to build a board in one of their garages.  Who said england's gone health and safety mad!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 16, 2010, 09:56:45 pm

YYFY after a few email exchanges, the higher powers at the research institute where I am doing my PhD and live have allowed me to build a board in one of their garages.  Who said england's gone health and safety mad!

But have they said you can use it?  ;)

(bet you have to make a COSH and fill in a risk assessment...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on July 16, 2010, 10:03:45 pm
its coshh and there would be no need for it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on July 17, 2010, 04:48:04 pm
trip to font is booked. i cant wait never been before so looking forward to it.  one problem got to get strong by the end of august.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 17, 2010, 06:13:30 pm
its coshh and there would be no need for it

unless you are sawing plywood...

nasty stuff, plywood dust
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on July 18, 2010, 08:25:17 am

YYFY after a few email exchanges, the higher powers at the research institute where I am doing my PhD and live have allowed me to build a board in one of their garages.  Who said england's gone health and safety mad!

But have they said you can use it?  ;)

(bet you have to make a COSH and fill in a risk assessment...)
Don't forget your method statement .....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on July 18, 2010, 09:18:42 am
its coshh and there would be no need for it

unless you are sawing plywood...

nasty stuff, plywood dust

 :agree:

Can be full of formaldehyde depending on the grade of ply/adhesive used.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 18, 2010, 09:22:16 am
or screws and large air holes if u go for the chinese option
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris20 on July 19, 2010, 01:18:14 pm
I was going to get the circular saw out but probably best to do that after dark, no doubt i'll be posting on the NNFN with a missing finger soon
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 23, 2010, 08:49:32 am
Not bouldering related, but has a similar feel to it....

I still have my job  :bounce:

and the genii of the NHS Foundation Trust have added the word "assertive" into my job title - as far as I'm concerned this gives me carte blanche to go round telling people what to do

YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 23, 2010, 08:54:49 am
 :thumbsup: That must be a great relief, not only for you, but the people you help  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 23, 2010, 08:59:08 am
Good stuff mate.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on July 23, 2010, 09:02:07 am
interestingly my nhs foundation trust have reduced my title on my name badge presumably to save money on the printing.
is there a market for 2nd hand name badges for nhs trusts that don't exist anymore.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 23, 2010, 09:12:26 am
your trust has enough money for badges  :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 23, 2010, 10:29:07 am
Badges, badges, we don't need no steenkin' badges!

(http://www.scvhistory.com/gif/lw2145c.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 23, 2010, 10:37:18 am
(http://www.koolbadges.co.uk/images/thumbnails/underscheiver-200x200.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on July 23, 2010, 11:50:16 am
your trust has enough money for badges  :o
yes they come on a nice lanyard.which has a quick release if somebody grabs it to try and choke you.however if they grab it from behind you won't be needing your badge except to put on your memorial.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 23, 2010, 03:27:00 pm
On a similar vein:   :thumbsup:  I've still got my driving licence!

Was in court yesterday, busted with 8pts and a fine for careless driving - lucky I got a nice judge on a good day.  Time for a  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris_j_s on July 23, 2010, 04:05:49 pm
On a similar vein:   :thumbsup:  I've still got my driving licence!

Was in court yesterday, busted with 8pts and a fine for careless driving - lucky I got a nice judge on a good day.  Time for a  :beer2:

Do NOT drive home afterwards! :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on July 23, 2010, 04:42:09 pm
On a similar vein:   :thumbsup:  I've still got my driving licence!

Was in court yesterday, busted with 8pts and a fine for careless driving - lucky I got a nice judge on a good day.  Time for a  :beer2:

What did you do?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on July 23, 2010, 05:58:44 pm
and the genii of the NHS Foundation Trust have added the word "assertive" into my job title - as far as I'm concerned this gives me carte blanche to go round telling people what to do

YYFY!


For real ? As in something like: 'Assertive Compliance Executive' ? Or did you mean in the job description ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 23, 2010, 07:20:06 pm
and the genii of the NHS Foundation Trust have added the word "assertive" into my job title - as far as I'm concerned this gives me carte blanche to go round telling people what to do

YYFY!


For real ? As in something like: 'Assertive Compliance Executive' ? Or did you mean in the job description ?
 

job title

Assertive Outreach Worker
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on July 23, 2010, 07:31:04 pm
Tremendous. Do you have a good cop / bad cop routine going with a Submissive Outreach Worker ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on July 23, 2010, 08:10:44 pm
Tremendous. Do you have a good cop / bad cop routine going with a Submissive Outreach Worker ?
in assertive outreach teams its usually nice nurse/naughty nurse.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 23, 2010, 08:11:39 pm
On a similar vein:   :thumbsup:  I've still got my driving licence!

Was in court yesterday, busted with 8pts and a fine for careless driving - lucky I got a nice judge on a good day.  Time for a  :beer2:

What did you do?

Fucked up in a big way. Fell asleep coming home from winter climbing and had a head on with a bus. Fortunately no-one other than me was injured, I'm sure the driver could rightfully claim for a new set of undies though...

I think the fact that I can't work offshore for 6 months, or climb for 12 stopped the Judge taking away my licence. Still,with costs at about £4800 it's, by far, the most expensive nap I've ever taken.   :yawn:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 23, 2010, 08:13:02 pm
On a similar vein:   :thumbsup:  I've still got my driving licence!

Was in court yesterday, busted with 8pts and a fine for careless driving - lucky I got a nice judge on a good day.  Time for a  :beer2:

Do NOT drive home afterwards! :P

Fuck it, when you've got 11, what's another 12  :shrug:

[/tongue in cheek]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 23, 2010, 08:13:38 pm
Easily done.  I remember driving up from Glasgow, doing the Long Climb and driving back all in a day.  I had to have a sleep somewhere before Tyndrum as I kept dozing off.  Scary as fuck.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 23, 2010, 08:17:07 pm
Tremendous. Do you have a good cop / bad cop routine going with a Submissive Outreach Worker ?

I do both; with different voices.
I also do the role of the victim/perp/client with amusing/offensive impressions if they aren't joining in.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 23, 2010, 08:19:35 pm
in assertive outreach teams its usually flirting with both nice nurse and naughty nurse.

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on July 23, 2010, 08:36:26 pm
Tremendous. Do you have a good cop / bad cop routine going with a Submissive Outreach Worker ?

I do both; with different voices.
I also do the role of the victim/perp/client with amusing/offensive impressions if they aren't joining in.
drama therapist as well.is there no end to your talents.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 23, 2010, 09:11:55 pm
in assertive outreach teams its usually flirting with both nice nurse and naughty nurse.

 :thumbsup:

Good news Lagers  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 26, 2010, 09:36:30 am
  :agree: Stihl all the way holmes.

(What a great problem to have  8))
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 26, 2010, 09:45:59 am
Actually bouldered on Friday night. Just down the beach near the house, but second time since Xmas. Conditions were ace. Surprisingly didn't suck too much on the vertical stuff, but was hopeless on anything steep. And did a new prob on a bouldered I have partially excavated last autumn and left the sea to do its work. Plus cleaned up some new stuff too. Amazing what you can see with fresh eyes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SpanishJuan on July 26, 2010, 10:36:46 am
Any chainsaw recommendations? (Local pundit says Stihl)

I'd agree, the only other real competition is husqvarna and they have a stupid greasing system on the guide bar nose bearings. Stihl are a far better machine to use and maintain
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on July 26, 2010, 10:38:53 am
Sthil here too, I've had my ms170 for years and its still going strong
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 26, 2010, 11:00:59 am
Stihl are also better at cutting through dense bone, and are less likely to get clogged with lumps of gore.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 26, 2010, 11:01:20 am
I wanna know what Trad Jim has been doing, surely worth a YYFY?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on July 26, 2010, 05:45:24 pm
Just paid some surveyors to mark the correct boundaries of my property in Squamish and discovered that I - and not my uphelpful neighbours - own all the trees that are starting to block my view of the Chief. Any chainsaw recommendations? (Local pundit says Stihl)

Right on - we can have a chainsaw party the next time you're over.

BTW, had a splendid day yesterday with Sparky & nephew - did Wiretap and then Rock On - fine multipitch squampton trad day out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on July 26, 2010, 07:59:28 pm
BTW, had a splendid day yesterday with Sparky & nephew - did Wiretap and then Rock On - fine multipitch squampton trad day out.
I very much liked the 3rd pitch on Wiretap (flare/ hand crack above the stump belay seat). Did you see the legal crap (http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?t=2874) boiling up between the guy responsible for Wiretap, Milk Road, etc and Kevin McLane? Very weird and dysfunctional.
Quite - it would appear from the SuperTopo discussion that McLane has variously pissed off/alienated just about all of the old school Squamish types, and is trying his hand with the next crop of local activists - I think you should write a new guide to Squamish so I don't have to buy his products anymore ;)

I suspect it will blow over quickly as the cleaning of Milk Road has received fairly universal support - from P Croft even  :bow:

I thought the belay at end of pitch 2 was fantastic!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 27, 2010, 09:37:18 am
Back on the YYFY!!! trail...

I removed another Almscliff tick from the list at the weekend - Streaky's Traverse (and did the Tantric Traverse at Snowden, which was a nice bonus).   Good to feel I'm back climbing well after my surgery, but I'm frankly becoming worried by my appetite for slopey, bum-scraping horizontality in greasey conditions!

Next up will hopefully be the Slopey Traverse; although, from a quick play on it, that looks an entirely different kettle of kippers.  The finish alone - from LH in the undercut - seems horrendous - with or without the chip - any tips anyone?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on July 27, 2010, 09:56:50 am
... discovered that I - and not my uphelpful neighbours - own all the trees that are starting to block my view of the Chief.

Excellent.  Now if you could do something about the clouds!



Any chainsaw recommendations?

Whatever the guys you will be paying to do the work use.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on July 29, 2010, 10:04:43 pm
After a shit day at work (NNFN) managed to get K3 first redpoint this evening. :dance1:

Persistance paid ...off this time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 29, 2010, 11:49:08 pm
Good work.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: saltbeef on July 30, 2010, 08:14:18 am
well done simon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 30, 2010, 08:29:40 am
Effort!  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on July 30, 2010, 09:45:17 am
Thanks guys. Can't stop grinning.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Teaboy on July 30, 2010, 09:46:15 am
Good effort Simon
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris_j_s on July 30, 2010, 09:49:04 am
Fucking brilliant Simon - nice one!  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 30, 2010, 09:52:56 am
NIce on Si, now time to plant the Oak  :goodidea:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 30, 2010, 09:55:53 am
Well done Captain Shark.
What's next on the list then ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on July 30, 2010, 10:02:45 am
Oak is still the main goal but I will need a few weeks of cooler weather so am leaving that till the autumn.

I still have outstanding accounts with:
Arch Enemies in Dovedale
Crucifixion and Toilet at the tor
Rumble in teh Jungle at the other Cornice

If anyone fancies a visit to any of those crags on Sunday let me know...

 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 31, 2010, 10:09:06 pm
YYFY
today I went to amiata top, with a nice, although very humid, 16°, and I managed to haul my old fat weak body up "il manfano" a nasty nasty problem that had caused alot of pain, cursing and yelling. later I repeated some other problems and I nearly sent the project you left for me, Monolith.
a couple of pics.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/4846882885_b1953b6763.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/4847505450_a94eae08fe.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/4847506594_1891e44dca.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on August 01, 2010, 03:53:01 am
my old fat weak body


Old? Fat? Weak? Methinks not.

Well done Nibile. I understand the "pain, cursing and yelling" all too well.  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 01, 2010, 10:16:47 am
 ;D
thanks blunk!
yes, I know that I am not really really fat and weak, but that's how I feel recently. I think it's due to the fact that in 2010 I have done really little climbing, and now the wall is closed and no one's around, so I just do weights and fingerboarding, and I have no references to test me on. so I assume everyone is stronger than me.
the problem I've done yesterday is a repeat, I had done it last year, but a broken foothold pushed me to wanting to do it again. bad idea!!!
anyway what really counts is that yesterday I felt good.

@ Monolith: I had your pants yesterday and I kinda crushed. you won't ever have them back. sorry.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 01, 2010, 03:41:11 pm
Lore! Are these my kids club specials? I totally forgot I left them there and have been looking everywhere for them! Alas, I'm glad to know you're crushing in them and your penis is rubbing in the place of giants. ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 01, 2010, 03:55:29 pm
 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gremlin on August 01, 2010, 07:38:09 pm
Nibile, what's that red band on your right arm? Is it something to help with elbow pain?

Ta :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on August 01, 2010, 07:41:43 pm
Anybody who wears one has felt a lot of pain over the last couple of years.  :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 01, 2010, 09:29:17 pm
 ;D ;D ;D
Tom? Rich?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 01, 2010, 09:33:13 pm
Nibile, what's that red band on your right arm?

Honorary Scouser's badge of suffering.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 01, 2010, 10:40:45 pm
Badge of pride my friend, badge of pride!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on August 02, 2010, 08:00:46 am
whilst we're on the subject of nibs armband, can anyone recommend any good 7a's in font?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gremlin on August 02, 2010, 01:04:02 pm
;D ;D ;D
Tom? Rich?

Nope, neither.  :)
Upon closer inspection the arm band seems to be something to do with football which now makes some of the later posts make sense.  :-\
My enquiry regarding elbow pain was a genuine one as I've heard there are methods of relieving pain from elbow tendonitus using specialist arm bands.........I'll get me coat.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 02, 2010, 01:15:55 pm
Gremlin, the armband is a power motif that Nibile received as part of a Liverpool Football Club mega party pack. He's started climbing a lot stronger since wearing these garments yet the pink headband I gave to him has been notable by it's absence of late. ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 02, 2010, 01:23:22 pm
Is it made from Accapi Nexus?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 02, 2010, 01:55:08 pm
Tom,
I can't wear the pink headband at my pleasure. I rip slopers off, with that on, imagine what I could do to flaky crimps.
I have to preserve the rock for others, my friend.

Gremlin,
I thought you had noticed that and was joking, sorry! anyway, to answer your general question, I've had to climb with elbow bands on for some time, but I've read it's quite bad, because they stop a bit the blood circulation, they make the part slightly numb and therefore they can increase the risk of more severe injury.
I hope this helps. sorry if off topic. that was funny though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on August 02, 2010, 03:36:23 pm
Lorenzo Gerrard number 8, take a bow you beast!

I hope your positive vibes float over Europe and arrive at Anfield this season where Liverpool will march on to glorious Europa League victory and hopefully 4th place!  :please:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on August 04, 2010, 09:01:38 pm
YYFY! Did stinging nettle last night about 6 months overdue. Not a breakthrough but one that's been bugging me for a while, glad to have got it done. Need to find a new reason to bother going to stone farm after work now...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on August 08, 2010, 06:24:43 pm
Bit of YYFY out of the blue today.

On a warm, claggy Sunday I went over to Caley for a session, ostensibly to have get a few easy problems done and a bit of fresh air.

Now I've been trying "The Horn" for a few sessions over spring and thought I'd jump on it and see how it felt. Well, greasy was the answer - no surprises there.

Well, imagine my surprise to knock it off 3rd go and my first 7a+ as well!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 08, 2010, 07:11:12 pm
Hell's Bells! That left arete feels foul in all but the coldest of conditions. Nice one, Crusher.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on August 08, 2010, 09:16:16 pm
YYFY!! After years on the waiting list, me and the missus have got an allotment!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 09, 2010, 02:11:52 pm
went to amiata top yesterday and dispatched toms project from last year.
I named it "i mulini", which is the exact translation of "the mills".
cheers tom.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 09, 2010, 02:15:25 pm
Lore, you're a hero. To have taken that drive and that pain, you my friend, are a man.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: schloosh on August 09, 2010, 04:26:45 pm
Sent Debris Dyno @ Rubicon first go on Sunday morning, quite chuffed with that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2010, 04:38:08 pm
Where is it now?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: schloosh on August 09, 2010, 05:29:58 pm
ok ok.... did, not sent.... massive apology
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chriss on August 11, 2010, 11:04:39 am
A double  YYFY for me had a golden day. Did 3x 7a's & a 7b out here in Aus which takes me too 103 font 7a's or harder worldwide since trying to take the whole game a bit more seriously.

Not to bad for a 32 year old punter from Essex!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on August 11, 2010, 01:05:11 pm
*briefly exits lurk mode*

YYFY! Got my first E2 onsight on Sunday, Godspell at Pule Hill :D All this effort is finally paying off!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on August 15, 2010, 06:22:05 pm
YYFY! Finally managed the slopey traverse at Almscliff on Saturday.  Crikey it was brutal... all that bulge pressing... more like wrestling with a congar eel than climbing.  Lovely moves but I'm grateful that I didn't drop the finish up Morrel's wall - not sure if skin and shoulders could have taken much more.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 15, 2010, 07:02:13 pm
Good effort Moose - worth an extra grade given the warmth... all those warm slopers... mmmm (not..)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 15, 2010, 09:20:34 pm
The battle is over, the war is won.

After a siege which makes the Battle of Leningrad look like a minor skirmish, the Trojan war look like a bit of fisticuffs, my assault on the Grooved Arete of Kilnsey is finally over.

I am released from bondage, I can now walk with my head held high, looking any man in the eye.

YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 15, 2010, 09:45:17 pm
Good show.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 15, 2010, 09:47:40 pm
Andy! Congratulations mate! Really pleased to hear this as I'm sure it's occupied your mind a lot. Sterling stuff beast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on August 15, 2010, 09:59:14 pm

I am released from bondage, I can now walk with my head held high, looking any man in the eye.

YYFY.

blimey i know you said you were dieting for it but chaining yourself up is surely a step too far?

(NIce one again ;) )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 15, 2010, 10:02:21 pm
Is any step to far? It's bloody hard to diet when there's not much too loose. It's all worth it, now I can   :beer1: without  :guilty:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 16, 2010, 01:55:00 pm
I'd like to thank the many, many belayers who have put up with my efforts over the last 4 or so years. Ian P, we can go somewhere else for a change! Davo, Uptown and Nic for all the psyche and positive vibes. TimB - beat that for an epic  ;) 
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 16, 2010, 03:45:46 pm
You left out the fact that those 4 years included one complete retirement from climbing, and arrival of 2 bairns.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 16, 2010, 04:10:38 pm
You left out the fact that those 4 years included one complete retirement from climbing, and arrival of 2 bairns.

Only 1 bairn came along during the siege, but Your right about the 'retirement;  :guilty: :oops:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 16, 2010, 04:11:43 pm
You left out the fact that those 4 years included one complete retirement from climbing, and arrival of 2 bairns.

Only 1 bairn came along during the siege, but Your right about the 'retirement;  :guilty: :oops:

More importantly! What's next? Urgent?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 16, 2010, 05:16:31 pm
Probably Ecstacy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 16, 2010, 05:22:37 pm
Probably Ecstacy.

Good choice. A fair way from the 'other' end of the crag  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on August 18, 2010, 07:36:52 pm
Is that a route or are you just going to become a druggy?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 18, 2010, 08:33:28 pm
I took a year out too for that lad. Won't do you any harm ;)

Chris brought up a very good memory, Mr Farnell's dramatic resignation from the sport. Wad also for anybody who can find that quote. Fairly sure there was a priceless paragraph from you Andy. I'm looking forward to seeing you soon beast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: IanP on August 18, 2010, 08:52:30 pm
Probably Ecstacy.

When you said go somewhere else I was thinking a bit further than the other end of the crag   :-\

Classic epic, wish I'd been there to see the final crushing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on August 18, 2010, 11:33:05 pm
I took a year out too for that lad. Won't do you any harm ;)

Chris brought up a very good memory, Mr Farnell's dramatic resignation from the sport. Wad also for anybody who can find that quote. Fairly sure there was a priceless paragraph from you Andy. I'm looking forward to seeing you soon beast.

Mediocrity - not my choice
 by - andy farnell  on - 31 May 2008
I've reached a point in my life where things have conspired to mean I can't sustain my current progress, or even get close to the level of climbing I know I'm capable. I had a choice: Mediocrity or quit. I've chosen to quit. It was probably the toughest choice I've ever made. Climbing has been my life for the past 20 years. Thanks to everyone I've met over the last 20 years, you were all great.

Andy F 
 :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 18, 2010, 11:53:34 pm
YES!!!!

Shark thankyou.

Andy, though you might not realise it, you have inspired me more than reading any book by any climbing demi god. To have completely resigned only to come back and do GA, I can envisage the rampant crush that must have been unfurling within your psyche over the period since returning to work (p.s. are you not entitled to some form of auxillary governmental support for this return?).

You saw the board and you stepped up to the oche. Respect.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 11:00:40 am
Incredible. I really can't comprehend the mindset of quitting rather than accepting decline. Its going to happen sooner or later.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on August 19, 2010, 11:23:25 am
Me too. I'm gonna dust off the rack when things head south.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 19, 2010, 12:24:28 pm
when my training decline will start, maybe I will finally take up climbing...
yeah, that sounds as a good idea.
after that it will be bodybuilding.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 19, 2010, 12:48:57 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mmBw3uzPnJI/SSQ2DagKphI/AAAAAAAAWJY/lmiUV30htOc/s400/Oldest-Bodybuilder-08.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on August 19, 2010, 12:55:11 pm
had a haircut Jasper?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 19, 2010, 01:02:06 pm
Nah, its Bennet with the lights on.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on August 19, 2010, 01:16:39 pm
the strobist blog really is good
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 24, 2010, 05:53:31 pm
with a whole bunch of mixed emotions, I am here to announce that I have ticked "dolomitenmann" at città dei sassi.
since falling in love with the place in the 90's and then finally start ticking there in 2006, I've worked my way through alot of very nice and powerful problems.
I have climbed every problem I wanted to, there, and now I feel some kind of a loss.
still YYFY, but of a very strange kind this time. I wasn't expecting it to be like this.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on August 24, 2010, 10:26:34 pm
"(p.s. are you not entitled to some form of auxillary governmental support for this return?)."

FFS he's a teacher!  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on August 25, 2010, 04:40:54 pm
Climbed outside for 30 minutes today for the first time since the thumb incident nearly 3 months ago
Just a few easy problems at trackside but it felt great.
In the first week after the accident Norton suggested that Strawberries would be a good one to see if I could still do it without a thumb end so... did it OK  :thumbsup: (I'd really like to edit this emoticon so that there's only a one thumbed version BTW)
In the same week Seb suggested that the pinch problem at Crag X might be interesting. Not sure about that yet  :-\
I'll leave it for a couple of days to see how I feel before my next foray onto easy angled rock. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on August 25, 2010, 04:49:13 pm
Norton suggested that Strawberries would be a good one to see if I could still do it without a thumb end so... did it OK  :thumbsup:

I'll take a wild guess - Curbar not Tremadog.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on August 25, 2010, 04:51:51 pm
Quote
I'll take a wild guess - Curbar not Tremadog.

Unless trackside has moved to North Wales then yes you're correct
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2010, 07:59:20 pm
Norton suggested that Strawberries would be a good one to see if I could still do it without a thumb end so... did it OK  :thumbsup:

I'll take a wild guess - Curbar not Tremadog.

There's a clue where he says

Quote
Just a few easy problems at trackside but it felt great.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on August 25, 2010, 11:34:44 pm
If there is an award out there for the climber "least-likely-to-do-Strawberries (at Tremadog)" Dolly would win it thumbs down.

We had to rescue him from the summit of the Pebble once.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2010, 09:44:36 am
If there is an award out there for the climber "least-likely-to-do-Strawberries (at Tremadog)" Dolly would win it thumbs down.

(sorry)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 26, 2010, 03:57:57 pm
Just managed a session on the board, nothing hard and felt weak but YYFY because the knee that has been fucked for the last two months held up. Hopefully this is the start of the road back.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on August 26, 2010, 06:28:13 pm
not really bouldering related but got to the top of snowdon going the hard way over crib goch. i feel really chuffed having achieved this as i get pretty bad vertigo and i did it without dying.YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 26, 2010, 09:06:58 pm
I thought Indian Face was the hard way :).

CG is good fun.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on August 26, 2010, 10:21:56 pm
I thought Indian Face was the hard way :).

CG is good fun.

it was fun when i looked back when i had done it but i was shitting myself most of the time. Took me half an hour before i looked down. ;D.  some people the can almost walk most of it where as i spent most of my time crawling around. glad i did it though. high ball bouldering problems just got a little easier.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: philo on September 07, 2010, 04:44:41 pm
good to see some of the older walls, (20 years) hosting events like this one

http://climbonline.co.uk/events.htm?ref=nf (http://climbonline.co.uk/events.htm?ref=nf)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 07, 2010, 04:48:52 pm
Glad they kept the same name for the event too. Will Malc be entering?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: philo on September 07, 2010, 05:13:30 pm
im not sure, would be nice to see the likes of malc, earl and micky there tho
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 07, 2010, 05:21:30 pm
Took me half an hour before i looked down. ;D.

Should have just done it in winter, we couldn't even see the drops when we came down that way earlier this year  :P

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2723/4307641770_ff1c85ac92_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/pie_monster/4307641770/)
The view makes it all worth it... (http://www.flickr.com/photos/pie_monster/4307641770/#) by Pie Monster (http://www.flickr.com/people/pie_monster/), on Flickr

T'is a great scramble though (definitely easier walking when iced up though!).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 07, 2010, 07:15:23 pm
We did it in perfect winter nick, cloudless and nice neve. Was my first winter in the UK, and scored ace winter condition in N Wales. Sadly it was also the last time I did any winter climbing in Wales.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 08, 2010, 09:12:20 pm
So psyched. Climbed for the first time in 7 months since my crash and it felt amazing, even though it was just pulling on plastic with a top-rope just the feeling of upward progress and using feet was great!

The beastmaker has definitely been my saviour - finger strength is still there and stamina ain't bad too. Mainly stuck to f5 - f6a routes but did a f6b and got to the end of a f6c but bailed due to a knee-risking move that I didn't like the look off.

Won't be able to do anything steep till my hamstrings get a lots stronger, but who cares - I CAN CLIMB and it's only 4 months since my surgery.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on September 11, 2010, 08:33:01 pm
I'm officialy moving to sheffield, end terrace with my girlfriend 2 mins walk from the works and its cheap as chips :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 12, 2010, 07:16:36 am
The Works isn't cheap as chips. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 12, 2010, 08:38:40 am
its as cheap as swiss pommes tho. soon be strong moo
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 13, 2010, 03:53:46 pm
did two new problems saturday at amiata. one was a recent project from june, "islero"; the other one older "love and peace da isa b".
one of the best days ever.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 17, 2010, 04:38:19 pm
Sloper Patrol finally yielded today after spitting me off for the past three years or so :)

The cliff was in great nic by the way...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on September 19, 2010, 01:23:06 am
Have been injured for the last 5 months with trapped axillary nerves that prevent me from being able to pull on jugs!  I've only recently been able to climb without pain and I am still struggling to do a single pull up!

But today, with all this going on, I somehow managed to do my first 8a+!  I climbed the rarely climbed Masada at Witches Point on the South Wales coast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on September 19, 2010, 09:04:57 am
This could equally go in NNFN but I'm striving to be more positive these days.

Got forced away from Almsliff yesterday by the wind's effects on my feeble circulation.... recovered my mojo courtesy of my car heater and relocated to Caley for a quick go at Secret Seventh..... and I finally did it... almost... kind of... fuck no :'(

Last go of the day - finally managed to get my right toe on that high arete smear.... hit the big sloper... swam my way over the top and, whilst beached whaling to safety, my flailing right foot did a hefty dab on the boulder at the side.  Bollocks.  Still, at least now I know that I can do it even when knackered and feeling a bit under the weather.  Just a shame the weather has completely crapped out for the rematch. 

Oh and a belated YYFY for a few weeks ago: I finally did some trad in Wales!  It rained most of the time and circumstances weren't amenable for anything hard but I was really chuffed to do Super Diagonal and Diagonal on the Mot and Dream of White Horses and Britomartis at Gogarth..... I reallly want to return back to Gogarth... if the weather in the UK could be depended on I'd book my entire summer holidays for the place.  As it was, I ended up bailing out on the last day - although that wasn't without its compensations -stopped off at Stanage and ticked Hamper's Hang (seemed bloody gruelling for f7a if you do the long version - hardest bit was getting out from the initial roof niche to the jug on the arete for me).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Snoops on September 19, 2010, 10:26:04 am

stopped off at Stanage and ticked Hamper's Hang (seemed bloody gruelling for f7a if you do the long version - hardest bit was getting out from the initial roof niche to the jug on the arete for me).

Nice one. I can't do the full version yet. Sharp and painful as well getting up and out of the niche. Good skills
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 19, 2010, 10:50:41 am
I'm officialy moving to sheffield, end terrace with my girlfriend 2 mins walk from the works and its cheap as chips :thumbsup:
vaffanculo moo.
the gym down here moved out of town, will be half the climbing surface than before, and it will be all vertical with a 20° overhang.
mothafukas.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 19, 2010, 02:17:57 pm
my flailing right foot did a hefty dab on the boulder at the side. 

Gutted! Good effort getting it though, how was Caley (before this incessant drizzle and a split tip put paid to my week of climbing, NNFN)?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 25, 2010, 06:14:50 pm
They should re-name Autumn and call it Awsome  :bounce:


Hurray for this time of year!

and goodbye to the midges


I've gone quite giddy with excitement  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 25, 2010, 11:47:33 pm
 :agree:
Every single boulderer woke up this morning to clear blue skies and freezing temps and were instantly psyched!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on September 26, 2010, 01:35:54 am
I have finally managed to get outside for the last two days and had two superb sessions after coming back from the latest injury.

Onsighted my first French 7a down in cheddar and did a my second ever 7b in avon

Well up for the winter season now :- D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on September 26, 2010, 08:42:30 am
Every single boulderer woke up this morning to clear blue skies and freezing temps and were instantly psyched!

Not quite everyone, I woke up to a cold, damp, and bitterly windy morning and thought "autumn's here and my grit season's almost over.... I reckon I'll have less than five more outdoor sessions before next spring". 

Still, signed off in satisfactory fashion: bagged the Secret Seventh, thankfully topping-out in an elegant 'sans dab' manner.  Not sure what to try next - Pedestal Arete SS?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 26, 2010, 07:54:29 pm
I went climbing in Skye. Only been wanting to do that all fucking year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 26, 2010, 08:00:10 pm
We went down to Egol early last summer where, for the first time ever in Scotland, it was too hot to climb. Was fully roasting, and we just lay on the beach and swam (plus we were pretty knackered from walking in to Sron na Ciche in the heat on both the previous days). I reckon you could still get more climbing done there this year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 26, 2010, 08:27:16 pm
They should re-name Autumn and call it Awsome  :bounce:


Hurray for this time of year!

and goodbye to the midges


I've gone quite giddy with excitement  :bounce:

Conditions weren't quite as good as yesterday, but I have had two consecutive days on grit

YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ummagumma on September 26, 2010, 10:05:38 pm
Trilled with nailing my first 7A. Felt easy enough. Makes me doubt it was a 7A. Fuck it, I'll take the tick. YYFY!!!!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on September 28, 2010, 12:09:25 am
FINALLY got my masters thesis handed in! More of a relief than a YYFY moment, but I'm pretty happy to get my life back and try to remember how to climb! Done nothing in the last month and a half and feel stupidly weak  :( Where'd i leave that beastmaker....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on September 29, 2010, 09:47:09 pm
Tonight I pulled off my first ever one-armed pull-up... the last couple of inches were a real struggle!
RaaaAAaarr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 29, 2010, 10:15:16 pm
Good work  :thumbsup:

Just got to work on the other arm now.  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on September 29, 2010, 10:32:50 pm
Aint that the truth  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: match on September 30, 2010, 08:33:36 am
Finally ticked Horror Arete at Bridestones, childhood nemesis! What a fantastic climb, well worth the wait. Celebrations were had  :beer1:

Chatting to a mate later that evening, he told a cautionary tale of slapping the top break of HA only to come face to face with a sheep that had made a daredevil leap, or possibly cranked V5, to investigate the totally grass-free top of the boulder.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 30, 2010, 10:12:23 am
"totally grass free" lol  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on September 30, 2010, 04:01:12 pm
Tonight I pulled off my first ever one-armed pull-up

nice one Eddie, hope it was chin over the bar and no kipping ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on September 30, 2010, 09:43:23 pm
Youll see when you get back from Font mate!
...Anyway, you should be posting a YYFY moment up here soon mate, hows it going out there?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on October 01, 2010, 08:03:06 am
I've finally got a job interview in Sheffield ...... Only the second in THIRTEEN years .......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on October 01, 2010, 08:42:15 am
I've finally got a job interview in Sheffield ...... Only the second in THIRTEEN years .......

Best of luck to you. Just make sure that when they ask why you want to work for the company the answer doesn't involve "because it means I can live in Sheffield and be in close proximity to some of the finest crags in the World".

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on October 01, 2010, 09:07:37 am
Thanks Chris  :)...... And very good advice , I'll bear it in mind and try to keep my answers theatrically based ........   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 01, 2010, 09:11:17 am
Good luck mate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on October 01, 2010, 05:11:20 pm
hows it going out there?

good mate, bagged my first 7A  of the trip, in 2 tries, in my 28th hour of being awake, only 30 days left though  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on October 01, 2010, 06:00:14 pm
Get busy with the fizzy  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on October 01, 2010, 06:21:27 pm
hows it going out there?

good mate, bagged my first 7A  of the trip, in 2 tries, in my 28th hour of being awake, only 30 days left though  :P

Good effort, are you doing one of your cool vids of the trip?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on October 01, 2010, 06:46:20 pm
I will indeed be stealing 30 mins of your life with a font offering
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2010, 09:09:00 pm
in every man's life there are historical moments of absolute value. the first time you je** off, the first time you get into a fight, the first time you make love.
today, for me, will forever be the day I hung the 45's. repeatedly.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on October 02, 2010, 10:01:24 am
in every man's life there are historical moments of absolute value. the first time you je** off, the first time you get into a fight, the first time you make love.
today, for me, will forever be the day I hung the 45's. repeatedly.

 :lol:  important times indeed! Something of a relief that even you have struggled with the 45's.... I look forward to the momentous day when I can hang them. Please tell me you aren't hanging them one handed?  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 02, 2010, 08:54:13 pm
Yyfy went to crattcliff today and did the rh arête on the egg. It's what inspired to start crushing again a couple of months ago after a six year lay off. I know it's only a small number but it really bugged me not getting the first time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jakjak on October 03, 2010, 01:46:38 am
in every man's life there are historical moments of absolute value. the first time you je** off, the first time you get into a fight, the first time you make love.
today, for me, will forever be the day I hung the 45's. repeatedly.

i think somone wrote a poem about them 45's........

If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you,
But make allowance for their doubting too;
If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,

If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew
To... hold on when there is nothing in you
Except the Will which says to them: "Hold on";

If you can fill the unforgiving minute
With sixty seconds worth of [encores] -
Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it,
And - which is more - you'll be a Man my son!

i mean yea... a few alterations and shortening  :whistle: but the gyst is there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Caesar Power on October 07, 2010, 10:03:01 pm
Bought a pair of original Boreal Ace's on ebay. £15, in my exact size, and in mint condition! 8)
It's 1991 all over again.
YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 07, 2010, 10:09:26 pm
Wow!  I used to have one pair of Lasers and a pair of Aces.  That covered all styles of climbing  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on October 07, 2010, 10:31:29 pm
my first pair of boots were Aces - loved them  :shag:  - got them so tight that I could only stand on the side of my feet....
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/sharpendpate/photo-2.jpg) I still miss them  :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 07, 2010, 10:33:22 pm
Bought a pair of original Boreal Ace's on ebay. £15, in my exact size, and in mint condition! 8)
It's 1991 all over again.
YYFY!

Sadly I think the rubber vulcanises over the years, so I'm not so sure how the rubber will be.. Mind you don some Lycra and you'll be clad like a retro climbing Demi god..

When I tried to use my 16 year old still good lasers a couple of years back they fitted like a glove but were gash as the rubber had gone off..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 07, 2010, 10:45:19 pm
Or maybe the rubber was always shit and it's just that rubber now is so much better?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 07, 2010, 11:00:27 pm
Or the rubber stayed the same and Im much worse/fatter/crapper  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 08, 2010, 12:41:10 pm
I bequeathed my pair to Will, when he was in his Lycra phase. Did you ever use them Will? Or was the stench just too much?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on October 08, 2010, 01:56:37 pm
Bought a pair of original Boreal Ace's on ebay. £15, in my exact size, and in mint condition! 8)
It's 1991 all over again.
YYFY!
What size are  you ?
I've got loads of shit old boots examples of classic footwear from yesteryear if you want to pay for them
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on October 08, 2010, 09:58:18 pm
Bought a pair of original Boreal Ace's on ebay. £15, in my exact size, and in mint condition! 8)
It's 1991 all over again.
YYFY!

The fluorescent yellow trim attracted midges. I seriously feared I was going to lose both feet from the festering midge-bite welts around my ankles after one particularly ill-judged summer evening at Wilton.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 11, 2010, 10:12:26 am
Overpowering I'm afraid but a lovely bit of too-old-for-me nostalgia.

Who said the lycra was dead?

(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs169.snc3/19660_215849759329_504674329_3010468_574496_n.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 11, 2010, 11:34:42 am
No vest tops. #fail

 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nizza on October 11, 2010, 01:23:38 pm
YYFY - Finally after a mental last 7 months I'm back climbing and in training. First session this afternoon and I can't wait.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 12, 2010, 09:24:26 pm
yesterday I had a very good session on the Beast, I managed to one arm the right eye and was truly psyched, but today I fu**ing one armed the 35°. twice.
YYFY.
35 degrees (http://www.vimeo.com/15778858)
my g/f's comment at the end literally says "you're an idiot. just an idiot". she's just envious because she's weak.
I am so fu**ing happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on October 12, 2010, 10:18:24 pm
outrageous, have a point
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on October 12, 2010, 10:37:30 pm
Have another, your girlfriend obviously dosent know what shes dealing with.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 12, 2010, 10:56:51 pm
Just agree that you are an idiot, but a very happy idiot. Then say something profound about the worthlessness of intelect to anyone who isn't happy - thus proving that you are not an idiot, but are in fact a humble, happy genius with a fantastic physique. She will feel warm and smiley inside because she has witnessed The Event.

£85 Tuesday Night Special Relationship Advice (I'll take Euros, since you're such a hero)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on October 12, 2010, 11:12:54 pm
Do it without the thumb-dab in the slot, and even I'll wad you.... ;) :-* :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on October 13, 2010, 01:22:57 pm
YYFY! My conker, just defeated three challengers at work and still isn't showing any signs of damage. Come on!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on October 13, 2010, 01:49:04 pm
Rispek!  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on October 13, 2010, 05:26:49 pm
YYFY! My conker, just defeated three challengers at work and still isn't showing any signs of damage. Come on!

Do you work in a 1980's playground?  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2010, 07:03:48 pm
YYFY! My conker, just defeated three challengers at work and still isn't showing any signs of damage. Come on!

Do you work in a 1980's playground?  :P

Conkers make me think of

(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Pqh8dH3F22k/SLiS18v6HCI/AAAAAAAAAAo/uWWTa4BQi3Q/s320/skool.gif)

Surely kids these days only play conkers agains each other on the DS?

H&S don't allow it otherwise, unless safety goggles are worn

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/cumbria/3712764.stm (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/cumbria/3712764.stm)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on October 14, 2010, 09:59:31 am
(http://blog.doneganlandscaping.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/conkers.jpg) (http://blog.doneganlandscaping.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/conkers.jpg)

Feel the tension!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2010, 10:03:58 am
Didn't know Martin Johnson was into conkers.

And is that a drain plug in his chin?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on October 14, 2010, 10:50:06 am
Just got a letter saying I am owed over £900 from being overly taxed  :thumbsup:

Might just have to go to Bishop next year!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 14, 2010, 11:17:23 am
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 14, 2010, 11:50:19 am
Nice one Rich.

I might sound like a stuck record sometimes but EVERYONE should check their tax at the end of each tax year.

The errors that have been highlighted by the new PAYE system have been happening every year it's just they've not been flagged up unless the individual has contacted HMRC. If you work more than one job in a tax year or only work for part of that year there's a good chance that you will have paid too much tax. Even if you only have one job, your tax code may still be wrong.

It's very simple and only takes a few minutes. I've got people £££s back just by doing a quick check and making a phone call / writing a letter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on October 14, 2010, 12:05:33 pm
Just got a letter saying I am owed over £900 from being overly taxed  :thumbsup:

Might just have to go to Bishop next year!

How the f*ck?  You don't do any work, surely you don't pay £900 in tax in a decade, let alone over the past year or so.  You jammy tw*t.  I hope you die in your sleep.   ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 14, 2010, 12:12:19 pm
Even if you only have one job, your tax code may still be wrong.

That's a point, does your tax code change when you have a sprog?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on October 14, 2010, 12:44:31 pm
Nice one Rich.

I might sound like a stuck record sometimes but EVERYONE should check their tax at the end of each tax year.

The errors that have been highlighted by the new PAYE system have been happening every year it's just they've not been flagged up unless the individual has contacted HMRC. If you work more than one job in a tax year or only work for part of that year there's a good chance that you will have paid too much tax. Even if you only have one job, your tax code may still be wrong.

It's very simple and only takes a few minutes. I've got people £££s back just by doing a quick check and making a phone call / writing a letter.

How do I get the ball rolling on this Jasper?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on October 14, 2010, 12:54:34 pm
P60 from various employers if you've had multiple jobs within a given financial year.  Check that you've not been given your tax allowance multiple times by each of the employers (this has happened to my wife and she's now being told she owes HMRC money, however she has acted in good faith and will be putting in a letter/ form (ESC19 I think) to say that she has done so, and that the HMRC should therefore chase up her employers for the excess tax as its they who cocked it up).

If you only worked part of a year then you need to calculate how much in excess of your Personal Tax Allowance you have earnt and work out what tax you should have paid on that.  Chances are that your employer will have projected that you'll earn a full years worth at the rate they were paying you and will have therefore deducted too much tax.

Couple of useful articles at The Independent (http://www.independent.co.uk/money/tax/tax-can-be-taxing-what-to-do-if-you-receive-a-repayment-letter-2095258.html) (/via Jasper) and The Guardian (http://www.guardian.co.uk/money/2010/sep/04/tax-errors-hit-6-million).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on October 15, 2010, 06:47:20 pm
Just found out I'm soon to be officially "Chillax MSc". Am lobbying to have that put on the certificate  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 18, 2010, 11:56:38 am
Even if you only have one job, your tax code may still be wrong.

That's a point, does your tax code change when you have a sprog?

Nope.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 18, 2010, 12:01:48 pm
Nice one Rich.

I might sound like a stuck record sometimes but EVERYONE should check their tax at the end of each tax year.

The errors that have been highlighted by the new PAYE system have been happening every year it's just they've not been flagged up unless the individual has contacted HMRC. If you work more than one job in a tax year or only work for part of that year there's a good chance that you will have paid too much tax. Even if you only have one job, your tax code may still be wrong.

It's very simple and only takes a few minutes. I've got people £££s back just by doing a quick check and making a phone call / writing a letter.

How do I get the ball rolling on this Jasper?

Basically what slackers said. If it's a simple case of working a few jobs or only part of the year then get the information from P60s / P45s, total the amount you've earned in the year and work out how much tax should have been deducted. If you didn't have any other income or benefits in kind etc then the calculation should be pretty simple. Check this against the total tax deducted on the P60s etc and you can see if you've paid too much or not.

If it's more complex then you ask me.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 18, 2010, 12:07:55 pm
Even if you only have one job, your tax code may still be wrong.

That's a point, does your tax code change when you have a sprog?

Nope.

Bugger.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on October 18, 2010, 12:30:54 pm
Or lucky, it might have gone up resulted in you paying more tax to cover the health care and education of another person in your family.  :devangel:

EDIT : Corrected for greater clarity.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 18, 2010, 12:36:02 pm
If your code goes up you pay less tax. #pedant  :P

EDIT : You don't get away with it that easily you dick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on October 18, 2010, 12:55:56 pm
A weekend of good weather and the best YYFY we can come up with is a discussion about tax codes?? Awesome...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on October 18, 2010, 01:07:14 pm
YYFY a brilliant weekend weather wise, pleasant Sunday spent at Burbage North despite the hoards (plus I started sorting my wife's tax out).  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 18, 2010, 03:38:25 pm
YYFY a brilliant weekend weather wise, pleasant Sunday spent at Burbage North despite the hoards (plus I started sorting my wife's tax out).  :P

 :-\

Lots of metal detector folk out an about then? or people with lots of posessions piled up in boxes/cupboards at home??

(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_SqhhJb_P3Kk/SY-tgrD3FSI/AAAAAAAAE38/Px35OCvHdj0/s400/hoarder+bottom.jpg)

Sorry - on a pedantic tea break...  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 18, 2010, 03:41:36 pm
A weekend of good weather and the best YYFY we can come up with is a discussion about tax codes?? Awesome...
[/quote

First 7A on lime on friday  :)  Saline Drip.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Steamboat Stello on October 18, 2010, 04:11:35 pm
Non tax-related but YYFY, first E5 on grit (ok so its probably soft!), Strapadictomy. Pleasing and suprising in equal measures. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 18, 2010, 04:12:24 pm
tomtom: I was going to congratulate you on more outpedanting of slackers but then you went and fucked up the quotes in your next post!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 18, 2010, 04:22:36 pm
tomtom: I was going to congratulate you on more outpedanting of slackers but then you went and fucked up the quotes in your next post!

ach... fucksticks...

Quote

[/quote]
[/quote]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on October 26, 2010, 08:27:30 pm
Finally became an  Overnite Sensation today  :thumbsup: ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on October 26, 2010, 10:42:35 pm
ok I dont normally blow my own trumpet, but managed to hit a big milestone today by climbing my 5th hundred problem in the forest above 7a,  ;D

its all down hill from here
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 26, 2010, 11:42:30 pm
Does that mean that no one on UKC will argue about whether you have consolidated Font 7a
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 27, 2010, 12:07:08 am
Finally became an  Overnite Sensation today  :thumbsup: ;D

Finally! Now I can forget the time I fucked up how to use a gri-gri when you were looking good on it. Good work beast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 27, 2010, 12:11:51 am
This evening's completion of SuperMario Bros pales in comparison.  Damn you Farnell.


Oh, and good effort too!!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on October 27, 2010, 08:47:16 am
Does that mean that no one on UKC will argue about whether you have consolidated Font 7a

im sure someone will  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on October 27, 2010, 11:14:12 am
What have you ever done in the cave eh neil  :whistle: ;)

Good tickage there. Surely the goal is to tick the 7&8's next  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on October 27, 2010, 11:32:17 am
 ???
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on October 28, 2010, 08:43:37 am
Good effort Neil, am super jealous

Good tickage there. Surely the goal is to tick the 7&8's next  :-\

That's my long term pipe-dream goal. Keeps me going through the long days at work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on October 29, 2010, 05:49:00 pm
Just hung the 45's on my Beastmaker for the first time - no thumbs or nestle and did several repeats. YYFY 

Feels like a big step forward... :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on October 29, 2010, 10:17:47 pm
Nice one! I went for a local run, but still windy hilly and dark. Blasted it though so I suppose that is a yyfy of sorts.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 31, 2010, 03:36:46 pm
trying to find some YYFY into the NNFN, sitting in front of the pc all day I managed to review all my translation of Big Ron's book, which is now finished and sent to the editor.
it's been a tough journey but a pleasant one at the same time.
thanks Ron.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Teaboy on November 01, 2010, 12:19:42 pm
I managed to review all my translation of Big Ron's book, which is now finished and sent to the editor.
it's been a tough journey but a pleasant one at the same time.
thanks Ron.

What is the Italian translation of "Sound as a trout" or does he not use that phrase in the book?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tc on November 01, 2010, 02:37:12 pm
trying to find some YYFY into the NNFN, sitting in front of the pc all day I managed to review all my translation of Big Ron's book, which is now finished and sent to the editor.
it's been a tough journey but a pleasant one at the same time.
thanks Ron.

Well done. Good feeling, innit?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 03, 2010, 08:22:11 pm
yes, it's a great feeling to be honest. sometimes I'm at home doing nothing, and a sudden thought appears in my mind: gotta finish the book!!! then I realize I have already", phew!!!
I gave myself a very tight schedule because I wanted to have the book done by end of october, to be free to come to UK in the first two weeks of november...  :'(

... and no, apparently there's no "sound as a trout" in the book!!!  ;D

great read, really. a modest and shy legend. I would like to have a chat with him, when I have been in the Peak, I've always met him at the crag where conditions were best, but never managed a talk.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neil h on November 03, 2010, 10:15:08 pm
you going to hit font soon?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 04, 2010, 10:08:12 am
hey Neil!
sadly not. my project was to come over to Uk in novembre, but work decided differently. I plan to be in UK in february, as you suggestyed, but who knows. Font is still there...
 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joeisidle on November 04, 2010, 12:39:33 pm
YYFY! Finally did my first non-cave 7a: Mark's Roof LH at Gardoms (even if it was a soft touch). Wish I could find more climbs like this on grit, it could not have suited me any better! (Either that or I could just MTFU and learn to love slopey breaks I guess...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on November 04, 2010, 12:42:24 pm
Good work on Mark's Roof Left Hand. If you like powerful fingery climbing. Get yourself on Gorilla Warfare at Curbar. Really good problem and really works the finger power endurance.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 04, 2010, 02:10:58 pm
Either that or I could just MTFU and learn to love slopey breaks I guess

You said it. Rise up to the challenge.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on November 07, 2010, 02:59:05 pm
YYFY.  After 10 sessions in the last month, each one inching closer and closer I've just succeeded on West Side Story.  I am a very happy man tonight.  What a problem.   :alky:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on November 07, 2010, 04:13:49 pm
Nice one! Bonus points for showing tenacity.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luthor on November 07, 2010, 05:05:09 pm
Couple of new probs done this weekend, cave right at robin hoods stride and early doors at curbur,

Both went pretty easily after many previous failed attempts :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on November 07, 2010, 05:09:10 pm
Couple of new probs done this weekend, cave right at robin hoods stride and early doors at curbur,

Both went pretty easily after many previous failed attempts :-)

Not bad straight out of hospital (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16289.msg284984.html#msg284984)

Couple of new probs done this weekend, cave right at robin hoods stride and early doors at curbur,

Both went pretty easily after many previous failed attempts :-)

Good work, always be nice to tick a project.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luthor on November 07, 2010, 06:06:34 pm

Not bad straight out of hospital (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16289.msg284984.html#msg284984)

Good work, always be nice to tick a project.

Cheers!!

After being forced to rest for a week and a half it felt great to get out in the peak this weekend :-)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on November 10, 2010, 08:04:35 pm
Small series of various sized YYFYs. 2 weeks ago I was working in a bit-of-a-shit outdoors shop, not putting my engineering degree to the best use. Last tuesday I finally took my driving test and passed first time with 4 minors (subsidiary YYFY), then had an interview on thurs and a follow up interview today. Just found out I got the job YYFY. Moving back to bristol (YYFY) and starting my first proper job. I am so so happy.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 10, 2010, 08:48:33 pm
Nice one. Where you working?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on November 10, 2010, 09:08:00 pm
Thanks. It's a small energy consultancy firm just north of bristol called clifford talbot, looks pretty good. So not very degree related but lots of excel and some interesting energy price prediction software. Only problem is that they want me to start a week on monday (and I work full time, my last day is next friday) so it will be a bit mental trying to find somewhere to live etc. initially. But it's all good  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 10, 2010, 10:16:09 pm
Easy Motorway access then. Loads of flats in Bradley Stoke (Sadly Broke) and thereabouts.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on November 10, 2010, 11:56:45 pm
Thanks. It's a small energy consultancy firm just north of bristol called clifford talbot, looks pretty good. So not very degree related but lots of excel and some interesting energy price prediction software. Only problem is that they want me to start a week on monday (and I work full time, my last day is next friday) so it will be a bit mental trying to find somewhere to live etc. initially. But it's all good  :)

you will be able to get yourself down to tca best indoor bouldering in the country (imo it was better than the works)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on November 11, 2010, 08:00:57 am
Yeah, it should be a pretty good set up. We've been trying to move from the rockless barren SE to either bristol or sheff since about may so it's a result. Lived in bris for 4 years as a student so well acquainted with tca. Actually very excited about living 2 hours from pembroke  :thumbsup: and the peak is a bit nearer, wye only 40 mins. Also, having avon back on my doorstep (even though it is avon) will be pretty sweet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 13, 2010, 08:18:50 pm
Finally managed to tick the keel today. Properly happy! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 14, 2010, 09:47:19 am
Sounds cool. Pics?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on November 14, 2010, 10:43:53 am
Finally managed to tick the keel today. Properly happy! :thumbsup:

Sounds like you are moving to the next level. Should be a good winter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luthor on November 14, 2010, 12:31:52 pm
Managed to do t crack yesterday! Wanted to do it for ages, took 3 sessions to work it. Proper psyched! Top move/s are ace, when they stick  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 14, 2010, 02:44:43 pm
Nice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 14, 2010, 09:23:09 pm
Nice one IO2, now that's a proper YYFY. Nice register box too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on November 14, 2010, 09:39:35 pm
perfect day ... best chunk of limestone in the country totally deserted, cold and sunny, and both of the people there tick their projects. Malham rules  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on November 15, 2010, 11:19:19 am
Managed to turn a NNFN into a YYFY. After failing numerous times on the Nadin's Traverse at the roaches, I bagged my first V6 by doing the eliminate dyno from the sloping finger rail to the top. I think it's called "Reg" in the BMC roaches book.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carnage on November 17, 2010, 09:50:11 pm
Not a climbing YYFY but one for me none the less.

A double blow for Australia today (a NNFN for them) - After discovering they get to keep Pauline Hanson, they now can't get rid of me either.

I am now officially an Australian citizen - YYFY
 :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 17, 2010, 09:59:19 pm
Not a climbing YYFY but one for me none the less.

A double blow for Australia today (a NNFN for them) - After discovering they get to keep Pauline Hanson, they now can't get rid of me either.

I am now officially an Australian citizen - YYFY
 :beer2:

You'll have to get rid of 'pommie bastard' underneath your avatar now  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on November 18, 2010, 07:46:44 am
I went climbing indoors last night at hudds wall (NNFN? ;)) but it was my first time trying to climb anything challenging since I fucked my shoulder playing football at the beginning of october.
I thought I would be in agony this morning and I feel ok just a dull ache. YYFY I can finally start enjoying grit season.  :dance1:

Can't wait for shooters nab this weekend now
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on November 25, 2010, 08:46:22 am
After ages bouldering I had a great routes session at the wall last night with FallingDown and Galpinos. Did falling practise and managed to let go several times with only a bit of wimpering and the odd shriek. No outright screaming. Took an actual leader fall and my nearly better finger didn't get sore AT ALL. YYFY. Keen.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chriss on November 25, 2010, 05:21:48 pm
Not climbing related, but after 2 3/4 years of dossing about in Europe, the UK & Aus I finally have a decent job, paying ok money & with some half decent prospects. Should really be a NNFN, but job = money at last!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 25, 2010, 11:48:48 pm
Nice to have some security eh?

Had an amazing session at Almscliff this evening, very cold temperatures but manageable. Very good friction too but I had weird annoying glassy skin which meant some slopers felt crap. Nice to know I can still manage Steve's Wall too, did it quite easily in good style, feeling strong on the slap, so I'm pleased.

The winter is here and I'm feeling strong.
Yes Yes Fucking Yes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 25, 2010, 11:49:51 pm
Does this mean I have to head back and try the Keel?

Oh cock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on December 07, 2010, 10:04:00 pm
A total YYFY moment today, as I became a dad for the first time!  :bounce:

In spite of the lack of sleep, the labour was surprisingly untraumatic and straightforward. Mum and baby doing well, it's scary, but a totally amazing feeling too :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 07, 2010, 10:06:45 pm
Congratulations! :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 07, 2010, 10:08:52 pm
A total YYFY moment today, as I became a dad for the first time!  :bounce:

In spite of the lack of sleep, the labour was surprisingly untraumatic and straightforward. Mum and baby doing well, it's scary, but a totally amazing feeling too :thumbsup:

Wahey! Nice one!


(stick a post on the future wad onthe scene thread...)
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8014.msg287577.html#msg287577 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8014.msg287577.html#msg287577)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on December 07, 2010, 10:13:30 pm
Don't be daft, it's the Pasty's kid  :lol:

Only joking Rick, all the best to the 3 of you.  See you on the rocks in September, maybe?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on December 07, 2010, 10:48:02 pm
congratulations, have you thought of a name yet?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2010, 09:09:29 am
Nice one.

Enjoy the weapons grade meconium. Don't worry it doesn't last forever.

You didn't like sleep much anyway did you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on December 08, 2010, 01:15:13 pm
The name is Iris. The head seems less cone shaped too now!

:lol: The mec I can cope with, the 3 hours of continuous crying was a bit of a shock though!! managed about an hour of sleep. ish.
running on coffee at present...

And GCW, shall we say January, maybe?  ;)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 08, 2010, 04:32:46 pm
earplugs. And white noise.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on December 10, 2010, 03:59:28 am
The speed at which I'm approaching my submission date seems to be accelerating at a ridiculous rate with very little progress in my 'lab' work (its all simulated really) due to various faults, licensing issues and generally a lot of  :wall:

The other day I had an Epiphany that allowed a different approach which was met by a heavy dose of sarcasm and scepticism from my supervisor. Well, just now I've finished analysing my validation case data and its not only acceptable (behaving as it should), it actually fits the previous lab (actual lab) data nearly perfectly.

YYFY! Now all I need to do is bang out another 50 over the next two weeks but that's all a bit  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on December 10, 2010, 09:20:47 am
Nice one Paul!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on December 10, 2010, 09:21:39 am
Nice one, always good to stick it to your supervisor!

bang out another 50 over the next two weeks

That seems a little excessive? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 10, 2010, 09:21:54 am
I have no idea what any of that means, but sounds good.

And well done for ticking Epiphany.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on December 10, 2010, 09:22:54 am
And GCW, shall we say January, maybe?  ;)

OK, but I'll believe it when it happens, fatty!
bang out another 50 over the next two weeks

That seems a little excessive? ;)

3 to 4 daily is normal, isn't it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on December 10, 2010, 09:32:19 am
Glad your making progress PaulB.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on December 10, 2010, 09:34:39 am
And GCW, shall we say January, maybe?  ;)

OK, but I'll believe it when it happens, fatty!
bang out another 50 over the next two weeks

That seems a little excessive? ;)

3 to 4 daily is normal, isn't it?

Only if you are a  :wank:

or perhaps it is, if so I better get started for the day, hope my office mates don't mind...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 10, 2010, 10:25:23 pm
Quote
HER name is Iris. HER head seems less cone shaped too now!

Come on, get with the program!

Enjoy it, kids are fun. Just when you think you are getting to grips with it they'll throw you another curveball.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: RAK Punter on December 25, 2010, 03:57:00 pm
Insignificant but a real YYFY for me as I managed to get out on rock for the first time in way too long  :).  Stood on top of 5m high boulder, arms in air doing a jig of joy to the amusement to watching goats having completed (I believe sent maybe modern and correct term!) a V1 on sight.  Three hours of problems, no pulled tendons, feeling completely worked over and ready for bed - delayed by a glass or two of something with Christmas cake  :beer1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 26, 2010, 08:11:03 pm
Hacked our way up some coastal ice 10 mins walk from the house this morning. Only about 8m high, but in good nick, and last chance before thaw sets in. Spotted it forming up last winter, but was even fatter today. Crux was mantelling onto unfrozen turf at the top of the bomber ice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on December 28, 2010, 06:35:19 pm
First 7a on stephens day, slightly dodgy trad multipitch on xmas and first 7a onsight and 7a+ second go today. Not a bad way to spend the holidays  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 30, 2010, 08:23:47 pm
despite the lack of real climbing, I had a good YYFY yesterday at the new gym. michele caminati had been there the day before, and after doing one of the problems I set, said "it lacks a foothold".
LOOK AT ME.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on January 02, 2011, 06:23:02 pm
Well finally the rain stopped and the hangovers cleared, which allowed a few fellow Staffs lads and I to get out and really enjoy a day up at the Roaches.
We enjoyed our usual circuit with a few really good and less well known slabby probs thown in for good measure.
Then came the Tetris boulder, between us we climbed all but one problem on the entire boulder. I myself claimed Tetris and fellow crusher Alister bagged himself columns!
Thats one off the 2011 list already... YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 03, 2011, 10:32:13 pm
Managed to get out bouldering today for the first time since the wee bairn was born and managed to tick one of the 2011 aims off the list, YYFY!  :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 04, 2011, 10:10:07 am
yesterday was just one of those incredible days.
so happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on January 04, 2011, 03:37:45 pm
first v6/ 7A (dolphin belly), one off the aims of the year, even though the cliff was cold as fuck. Got it first time this session aswell, after falling off lots last time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 04, 2011, 04:11:46 pm
Good effort.... sorry couldnt make it - sat at home with some puking flu thing  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on January 04, 2011, 04:35:05 pm
No worries, hope you get fixed soon
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on January 04, 2011, 07:05:51 pm
first v6/ 7A (dolphin belly), one off the aims of the year, even though the cliff was cold as fuck. Got it first time this session aswell, after falling off lots last time.

Effort sir - assume that was you there with Will on Sunday? If so good to meet you as well.

Now you need to head back up there, move approx 4 feet left and so begins the love / hate relationship with DWR...certainly puts the plus in sept a plus!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JacobJacob on January 04, 2011, 11:35:51 pm
Finally ended my mini siege on West Side Story today!

Session 1: arrive in heavy snow but its blowing over the top of the crag leaving 2 feet of dry space to stand on. Twist my ankle which does a funny spasming thing and then swells up to the size of a balloon. Leave. No walking for a week, NNFN.

Session 2: Car thermometer reads -10 degrees C on the way up. Try until it starts getting dark and I am alone crying in the snow with bleeding knuckles...

Session 3: Get the jug but climb like a retard and fuck up the top wall. Sort life out. Get jug again and top out.

YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Soap on January 06, 2011, 08:44:47 pm
Every muscle is aching, especially lats, 2 months off may have been hard, but thrashing yourself back to a decent level of fitness sure is satisfying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on January 06, 2011, 09:19:17 pm
Get the jug but climb like a retard and fuck up the top wall. Sort life out. Get jug again and top out.

You'd be amazed by just how many people I know who have done exactly this.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 11, 2011, 11:38:19 am
After a failed visit to Longridge yesterday I made a trip to West View in Preston and just about managed a few hours bimbling about. Hauled myself up a few low grade things but the peak of my efforts was doing a V4 having not climbed for 7 months. Happy man. Also met Mr Lincoln and Serpico there who both flashed every single route in wellington boots. Man those guys are strong ;-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 11, 2011, 12:21:43 pm
I hope they cleaned their wellies :0)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 11, 2011, 12:24:56 pm
After a failed visit to Longridge yesterday I made a trip to West View in Preston and just about managed a few hours bimbling about. Hauled myself up a few low grade things but the peak of my efforts was doing a V4 having not climbed for 7 months. Happy man. Also met Mr Lincoln and Serpico there who both flashed every single route in wellington boots. Man those guys are strong ;-)
Good work Golty! have the problems been reset recently? what are they like?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 11, 2011, 01:19:40 pm
I was working Mike, otherwise I'd have come along and you could have really seen what strong means!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 11, 2011, 01:41:06 pm
I think Mr Vickers reset them in December, they were good fun and I enjoyed myself. If I do relocate i'm sure you can show me pure power Gareth, tear the wall down!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 11, 2011, 02:20:16 pm
I think Mr Vickers reset them in December, they were good fun and I enjoyed myself. If I do relocate i'm sure you can show me pure power Gareth, tear the wall down!
I wouldn't go climbing with Gareth, he'll probably rip all the holds off...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 11, 2011, 02:40:55 pm
That's pure fucking Power, Mr Pasty!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 11, 2011, 02:44:50 pm
That's pure fucking Power, Mr Pasty!!

I can vouch for that. 100% pure Denham beef. Accept no imitations.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 11, 2011, 02:45:39 pm
I think Mr Vickers reset them in December, they were good fun and I enjoyed myself. If I do relocate i'm sure you can show me pure power Gareth, tear the wall down!
I wouldn't go climbing with Gareth, he'll probably rip all the holds off... reach past all the hard moves  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on January 11, 2011, 03:07:47 pm
Passed my driving test this afternoon.  :great: :thumbsup: ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 11, 2011, 03:09:33 pm
Congratulations cheque.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 11, 2011, 03:17:34 pm
I think Mr Vickers reset them in December, they were good fun and I enjoyed myself. If I do relocate i'm sure you can show me pure power Gareth, tear the wall down!
I wouldn't go climbing with Gareth, he'll probably rip all the holds off... reach past all the hard moves  dyno past all the hard moves, then measure it with a tape measure ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 11, 2011, 03:18:48 pm
Balls to the lot of you, and congrats to Cheque.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 11, 2011, 03:54:30 pm
Your ratio of "problems destroyed" to "problems managed" is far higher than everyone else's though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 11, 2011, 03:56:20 pm
Balls to the lot of you

 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 11, 2011, 04:01:32 pm
Your ratio of "problems destroyed" to "problems managed" is far higher than everyone else's though.
:agree: :spank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 11, 2011, 04:02:22 pm
Not my fault the rock is too weak to handle the Power of Beergut!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 11, 2011, 04:37:23 pm
We have a name for people like you, Gareth, it's "Mode III"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 11, 2011, 05:08:25 pm
I can see why you are the heart and soul of a party, Nemo.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 11, 2011, 05:11:00 pm
I went to a party full of your types once, it was back to back shop-talk with a hint of sam-mocking.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 11, 2011, 05:17:04 pm
Nowt wrong with Samocking :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 11, 2011, 11:58:31 pm
Congrats to cheque. I bet your bouncing.......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 12, 2011, 12:06:50 am
Now don't do what I did cheque.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on January 12, 2011, 12:08:27 am
That ewe never forgave you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 12, 2011, 12:14:59 am
And that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 12, 2011, 10:49:54 am
Passed my driving test this afternoon.  :great: :thumbsup: ;D
Good stuff cheque  :dance1: :beer2:
Now you've got your wheels there's no excuse for not getting all those projects done!  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on January 12, 2011, 01:00:40 pm
Cheers everyone. :hug: Yeah, buzzing still!

Living an hour's drive from the Peak but having to rely on lifts is totally frustrating, especially when you're the keenest of your mates. Pick up my car ('02 Micra  8) ) in two weeks. Can't wait!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 12, 2011, 01:03:11 pm
Bad luck, I'm sure you'll be able to get a decent car soonish  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 12, 2011, 01:14:40 pm
Just don't crash it...

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2599/3707115406_ca1124c838_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/3707115406/)
No better in daylight (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/3707115406/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 12, 2011, 01:50:19 pm
Is this yours slackers? How did you smash the wing mirror off?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2011, 01:55:45 pm
I think it hit the ground on the second roll. Or was it the third Slackers? I guess you weren't paying attention to such things at the time :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 12, 2011, 01:57:07 pm
I did think that, but the rest of the car is immaculate, I thought if he'd rolled it it would have caved the roof in.
Car looks fine Slackers, don't know what you're complaining about! :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 12, 2011, 02:04:35 pm
I did think that, but the rest of the car is immaculate, I thought if he'd rolled it it would have caved the roof in.
Car looks fine Slackers, don't know what you're complaining about! :P

The other side did cave in (and yes it was mine, rolled twice I think, not to sure, I just held on to the wheel tight)...

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2626/3707115410_81bb3eca80_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/3707115410/)
Brunt (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/3707115410/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr

Complete insurance write-off.  The worst thing of all is that I have no way of mentioning anything about my wife's (erratic) driving as the retort is invariably "Yes, but I haven't write written a car off".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 12, 2011, 02:14:03 pm
Ah, I see,
must have been bleedin' scary! good work though, rolling a car has to be on some sort of list of things to do before you die...tick!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 12, 2011, 02:16:36 pm
The worst thing of all is that I have no way of mentioning anything about my wife's (erratic) driving as the retort is invariably "Yes, but I haven't write written a car off".

I hate that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on January 12, 2011, 03:48:02 pm
rolling a car has to be on some sort of list of things to do before you die...tick!

I imagine it's the last item a lot of people manage to tick
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Soap on January 14, 2011, 06:14:58 pm
I know it's not outdoors but finally managed to crack a V5 at the wall and a second problem is close to going as well, feels like it's all coming together now.  ;D ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 18, 2011, 05:14:04 pm
A kind of cumulative YYFY from today this one...

Had a great day out - got out on Grit for the first time since the 23rd Dec at the Cliff.. Great conditions (though windy). I was as weak as a kitten and didnt do any problems I'd never done, but had a new (very promising) bit of beta for Underhand which has moved it a step closer, good sequence working on Stu's LH and the heels on my new Dragons were SUPERB...
I stopped off in Leeds on the way back for a cuppa with an old mate that I hadnt seen for a while, and got home to find I'd only had 4 emails all day - none of which needed responding to.

 :thumbsup:  Top day.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on January 18, 2011, 06:02:13 pm
Pick up my car ('02 Micra  8) ) in two weeks. Can't wait!

Best climbing car going in my (heavily biased) opinion. If you see a muddy, blue Micra at the crag with a Works sticker on it that'll be me!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: markwellin on January 22, 2011, 10:31:29 am
yyfy - my second 7c went down yesterday

yyfy - got banned from the other channel for telling someone to choke on my cock
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on January 22, 2011, 11:55:27 am
Pick up my car ('02 Micra  8) ) in two weeks. Can't wait!

Best climbing car going in my (heavily biased) opinion. If you see a muddy, blue Micra at the crag with a Works sticker on it that'll be me!

Mine's red and will soon have the regulation mud and stickers. Anyone who sees it in a crag car park in the near future is probably best advised not to park too close!

Picked it up yesterday. Turns out my Grandad's been driving it with one front brake binding against the wheel so it steers into the middle of the road constantly- this is probably the cause of the recent near-misses that prompted him to quit driving and give the car to me!  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 22, 2011, 06:32:21 pm
Seans Arete at Curbar  :thumbsup:

Special thanks to FD, Norton, Dolly and others :wave: for not letting me give up and persuading me have 'just one more try'... Time for a  :beer1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on January 22, 2011, 07:11:51 pm
Nice one tomtom, I'll be after some beta for that from you, find it nails.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Norton Sharley on January 22, 2011, 07:29:12 pm
How tall are you?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 22, 2011, 07:45:52 pm
Bloody hell, Tom. Good effort  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on January 23, 2011, 09:17:33 am
If the brakes have been binding get the bearing checked out.it can fuck them up.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on January 23, 2011, 06:57:25 pm
If the brakes have been binding get the bearing checked out.it can fuck them up.

Cheers for the advice mate. :) It's in the garage now- the guy's a family friend so he'll hopefully sort the whole thing out.

I'm rapidly learning the hassle and expense of car ownership! It'll be worth it once I'm hitting the crags under my own steam, though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2011, 07:05:11 pm
Just don't hit the crags too hard. Or anything for that matter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 23, 2011, 07:49:30 pm
yyfy - my second 7c went down yesterday

yyfy - got banned from the other channel for telling someone to choke on my cock

*purile at every leve*l... and good at the sport.... welcome home mate   :hug:


waddage

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: youngy on January 24, 2011, 07:59:06 pm
YYFY crushed the Pit Problem from a stand start today for my second 7b+  ;D

Now to do it from a shitter and get a 7c

Feeling good!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 24, 2011, 08:34:05 pm
Burning off the old man farnell!  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: markwellin on January 24, 2011, 08:55:58 pm
Haha cheers.
I knew I liked this place straight away... Well apart from feeling out of the Sheffield loop... Is everyone here in sheffield?
Dorset represent!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on January 24, 2011, 09:27:14 pm
Burning off the old man farnell!  ;)

As if that's hard to do  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 24, 2011, 09:40:23 pm
.. Is everyone here in sheffield?

No, probably about half the regular users? The rest of us are from civilised places :0)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: al123 on January 24, 2011, 10:17:39 pm
after climbing trackside in about 5 goes last week, did it first try this saturday and first try again later on that day, first 7a! and also trackside dyno! not bad for 4 hours at trackside!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 28, 2011, 02:50:37 pm
after climbing trackside in about 5 goes last week, did it first try this saturday and first try again later on that day, first 7a! and also trackside dyno! not bad for 4 hours at trackside!
Nice one, although when I went on Tuesday it was sopping wet! Grrrrr!  >:(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on January 29, 2011, 06:26:10 pm
YYFY, finally got a 7A (cave right-hand at RHS).  :bounce:

Its probably an easy one but happy to take the tick! Should have had a second one but failed on the last move. Awesome day at RHS and cratcliffe.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 29, 2011, 07:16:38 pm
YYFY (non climbing related tho)
Had our offer on a house accepted, hopefully this one will go the distance
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joeisidle on January 29, 2011, 09:03:58 pm
Unfortunately it's not as good as a new house, but YYFY!: did Gorilla Warfare today, thereby (incorrectly) convincing myself that I can climb hardish burly grit problems :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on January 29, 2011, 09:13:21 pm
Not so much a yyfy more y ,but had a go on national acrobat and got both feet up in the crack.the fear of the fall is not so bad now I've done it a few times.feel wasted now though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on January 30, 2011, 08:00:40 am
YYFY (non climbing related tho)
Had our offer on a house accepted, hopefully this one will go the distance
Nice one Jim, good luck with it, moving can be pretty stressful! You still going to be in north west?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 30, 2011, 09:16:58 am
YYFY (non climbing related tho)
Had our offer on a house accepted, hopefully this one will go the distance

Good luck.  Last October I bought and moved into my first house (Ilkley - any other ukb'ers here?).  In retrospect it was pretty hitch-free but still left me drained for weeks.  The mental pressure of so many decisions of massive importance with always insufficient seeming knowledge.  Noone - e.g. surveyors etc, no matter how much they're being paid, will ever give a straightforward opinion!  Then, once you've moved, endless enervating encounters with utilities, call centres, and trips to Ikea (I went from never having been before to going 5 times in one week).  Still, it'll be worth it for you in the end I hope - best of luck!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 30, 2011, 08:49:52 pm
all my board projects for the month completed... all old probs with footholds eliminated / screwies only.

nice start to get back into it.

i'm chuffed.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on January 30, 2011, 09:13:10 pm
Conditions were mint up Burbage North today.
I bagged myself Blind Date, which was my first session on that problem. So Happy  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on February 02, 2011, 01:14:04 pm
Got my first French 7c at Brean Down on Sunday! Psyched!!! Awesome day - sun trap feeling warmer than Spain! On a different note, some guys were discussing that 5.10 were releasing Dragon Velcros? Any truth to this rumour?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on February 02, 2011, 02:04:51 pm
 :oops: Just seen the thread on the "Blackwing"...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on February 07, 2011, 08:28:09 pm
Discovered I can now do a front lever  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on February 07, 2011, 08:38:13 pm
I got a job! A good one too, in line with my qualifications and exactly the kind of thing I want to do.....and its in Ireland! Less of a YYFY, more of an absolute bloody miracle!   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 07, 2011, 09:04:00 pm
Bloody good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 07, 2011, 10:06:11 pm
 :thumbsup: Congratulations!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Beastio on February 08, 2011, 03:38:40 pm
Flashed my first 6B+ today, YYFY!  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JohnM on February 08, 2011, 03:59:06 pm
Do you mean 7B+?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 08, 2011, 05:07:19 pm
I doubt it, he's pretty weak!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2011, 07:16:30 pm
Great day on skis at Glenshee today. Fresh snow groomed perfectly for carving, which I did pretty much non stop from 9 until 2. Off piste awful, either scoured ice or mashed potato. Hopefully mash will consolidate to a base under forecast freeze thaw.

Sometimes living in Scotland is ace.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 08, 2011, 07:28:29 pm
Just back from the Cliff... Got Underhand done :thumbsup:

It was a bit of a battle - I got the hard move, followed by the lunge to the lip (static) first time  :o (not done it before) but wasnt expecting to do it, so hadn't done the starting moves. Then on subsequent attempts I kept screwing up by trying to do the lip move static, nearly catching it then dragging feet/dabbing etc..... It went with a lunge on the final go of the day as the sun had just set. Thanks loads to Uptown and his friend for encouragement and spotting up the final bit.

So thats the first 7B+ done... :) now to find me a 7C  :-\

 :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on February 08, 2011, 07:32:41 pm
On a roll Tom! Nice one.  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 09, 2011, 01:04:12 am
Good work tomtom, Keel now eh?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 09, 2011, 07:11:50 am
Good work tomtom, Keel now eh?

Cheers Andy :) Maybe.. Been having a play on Stu's LH so I think thats the next 'cliff project... On the Keel I've always been a bit put off  by the need to be able to lock off for the pocket lunge, and never found a boot/foot/angle combo to get my foot wedged into the slot.. though Stubbs suggested a person of my lank may be able to do it with foot still in the slot..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on February 09, 2011, 08:31:08 am

Good work Tom, crushing machine!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on February 09, 2011, 08:47:39 am
Sort of climbing related ...... Received my tax rebate yesterday and now I can afford my trip to font in may  :dance1: ...... 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robl on February 09, 2011, 03:31:01 pm
Just back from the Cliff... Got Underhand done :thumbsup:

It was a bit of a battle - I got the hard move, followed by the lunge to the lip (static) first time  :o (not done it before) but wasnt expecting to do it, so hadn't done the starting moves. Then on subsequent attempts I kept screwing up by trying to do the lip move static, nearly catching it then dragging feet/dabbing etc..... It went with a lunge on the final go of the day as the sun had just set. Thanks loads to Uptown and his friend for encouragement and spotting up the final bit.

So thats the first 7B+ done... :) now to find me a 7C  :-\

 :beer2:

Well done TT... suppose the extension is the logical step at 7c... and not any harder then underhand IMO.  :beer1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 09, 2011, 10:12:36 pm
Sort of climbing related ...... Received my tax rebate yesterday and now I can afford my trip to font in may  :dance1: ......

Can you lend me a couple of grand ?

at Big Society repayment terms, obviously
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on February 11, 2011, 08:53:51 am
Moving to Leeds in August!

Gritstone! Limestone!

YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: uptown on February 11, 2011, 09:13:53 am
Moving to Leeds in August!

Gritstone! Limestone!

YYFY!

 :beer2:
Sweet Will - I'll be super keen to hook up with you when you're here.
The only keen Yorkshire climbers I know don't live in Yorkshire. Where in Leeds are you moving to?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 11, 2011, 10:07:03 am
Tod is in Yorkshire, just.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: al123 on February 11, 2011, 04:16:02 pm
got the bad lip problem last nite at curbar!! my third 7 if you can count trackside :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on February 12, 2011, 08:42:55 pm
After what feels like an eternity of climbing like a world class muppet I hauled myself up Flatworld today.

Turned out to be a stunning day too, saw an awesome rainbow over the Eaglestone on the walk back.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 12, 2011, 10:42:18 pm
was is this good
Yosemitebear Mountain Giant Double Rainbow 1-8-10 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQSNhk5ICTI#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on February 12, 2011, 10:54:16 pm
was is this good

The one i saw was a double rainbow, similar to that one in fact but without the annoying voice over commentary.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 12, 2011, 11:59:08 pm
Today was a good day, one 7a, one 7a+, one 7b, one 7b+, one 7c. Days like these don't come that often!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on February 13, 2011, 12:10:27 am
Today was a good day, one 7a, one 7a+, one 7b, one 7b+, one 7c. Days like these don't come that often!

They do if it's a mileage day at Malham  ;)  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 13, 2011, 02:33:33 pm
More Cliff YYFY - after highballing Gypus yesterday, I have finally become a man in the eyes of the Almscliff gods: I did the topout of the Virgin!

I have done Gypsy in the past, but as it was snowing when I got the break I took the "match and drop" option.

Having never done the topout, that ascent has always had a slight cloud over it in my own mind - a bit like Sir Geoffrey's thing about asterisks next to centuries scored against Bangladesh...as of yesterday those doubts have been set to rest.

Gypus makes a brilliant highball with a few pads and spotters under you, albeit with flake being a touch creaky...would highly advise anyone to get on it!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 13, 2011, 02:57:05 pm
Effort - that topout looks well scrittly.... whats Gypus??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 13, 2011, 03:10:01 pm
It's the line round the corner to the right of Gypsy - break, undercuts, aforementioned creaky flake, reach over left to the niche at the top of Gypsy, match and then top out.

Think it gets E3 6b in old money, we had a good few pads which made (repeatedly for me) falling off from the reach move a lot more bearable!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on February 13, 2011, 04:01:35 pm
Twin cam at Stanage :) My first hardish move on a route and father now understands that not everything above E3 means "death". Woop woop! hard trad here I come! :thumbsup:
Also my ankle (which I destroyed on boxing day) is nearly as flexible as ever.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 13, 2011, 04:32:05 pm
It's the line round the corner to the right of Gypsy - break, undercuts, aforementioned creaky flake, reach over left to the niche at the top of Gypsy, match and then top out.

Think it gets E3 6b in old money, we had a good few pads which made (repeatedly for me) falling off from the reach move a lot more bearable!

Never seen that, nice one. I need to top out the gypsy  :-[ but I've been told it was scrittly too (think it was you tom funnily enough) so never gave it the concerted effort it deserves.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 13, 2011, 05:46:02 pm
I think the top out of The Gypsy is one of those things that everyone but beasts (they know who they are, the swines) does once and doesn't run back to in a hurry. You get all scrunched up in this niche and it feels off balance and that if you do fall you'll fall onto you back/head. Bringing the right hand over and groping for something positive is pretty memorable, but not in a good way. Well done TTT!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 13, 2011, 05:50:29 pm
It's the line round the corner to the right of Gypsy - break, undercuts, aforementioned creaky flake, reach over left to the niche at the top of Gypsy, match and then top out.

Think it gets E3 6b in old money, we had a good few pads which made (repeatedly for me) falling off from the reach move a lot more bearable!

Never seen that, nice one. I need to top out the gypsy  :-[ but I've been told it was scrittly too (think it was you tom funnily enough) so never gave it the concerted effort it deserves.

 ;D yup probably me! I was there a couple of years back when someone spent ages on the top out -0 up and down up and down.. they seemed to brush loads of sand and choss down! Its something I 'need' to do, just to say I've done it! Effort TTT
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on February 13, 2011, 05:54:15 pm
I think the top out of The Gypsy is one of those things that everyone but beasts (they know who they are, the swines) does once and doesn't run back to in a hurry. 
i once did this as my 31st route of vs and above in a day.
oohhh look at me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 13, 2011, 07:54:02 pm
Cheers all, was completely done after getting off (which I'd forgotten was a bit of a mission as well!) and couldn't climb anything!

I think the top out of The Gypsy is one of those things that everyone but beasts (they know who they are, the swines) does once and doesn't run back to in a hurry.

Having done it, I reckon I will probably carry on topping those problems out - think half the scariness is the element of the unknown, and I'm certainly not going to forget it in a hurry!

So what do the great and the good reckon for a sensible conversion then? E3 6b = highball Font 6c ish?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on February 13, 2011, 08:16:39 pm
Moving to Leeds in August!

Gritstone! Limestone!

YYFY!

 :beer2:
Sweet Will - I'll be super keen to hook up with you when you're here.
The only keen Yorkshire climbers I know don't live in Yorkshire. Where in Leeds are you moving to?

Look forward to getting out as much as possible, nice one!  :)

Not sure where we're going to live exactly, just started looking around for somewhere.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 14, 2011, 02:10:29 pm
Randomly, found "A rock-climber's guide to Northumberland", the 1964 edition in the local Oxfam shop. I walked past and it was in the window. In VGC too - cover scuffed, but pages unmarked inside.

Its ace - Bowden get a mention in the "Other crags" section at the back; "Bowden Doors has several good routes and considerable room for more" is all it gets.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 15, 2011, 05:28:23 pm
E3 6b = highball Font 6c ish?

I think the start gets about V3 doesn't it? Its not harder above that and pump doesn't really factor so probably about the same/a smidgen harder than the start to the break?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 15, 2011, 05:59:39 pm
E3 6b = highball Font 6c ish?

I think the start gets about V3 doesn't it? Its not harder above that and pump doesn't really factor so probably about the same/a smidgen harder than the start to the break?

Sorry, just re-read my post and realised it's not very clear - I was on about Gypus, not Gypsy, the former of which doesn't seem to be described in any of the Yorkshire bouldering guides.

I'd say that V5 would be about right, but then again if you're tall then that reach out left is far easier - my mate pissed it and he's 6 foot-ish.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tesla on February 16, 2011, 02:44:33 am
Minor YYFY: After living in California for a year someone finally took me out surfing. Loved it so much I went back out the next day, and even bought a wetsuit. Where has this been all my life? Falling Down - now I know why you get so excited about it :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 16, 2011, 09:38:11 am
Do you see the light?

What took you so long?

Stay there if you can, the best days in the UK won't measure up to the worst there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on February 17, 2011, 12:48:22 pm
First 7A+ and 7B at the cliff yesterday! Years aims done... steak for tea. good times
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on February 17, 2011, 12:54:14 pm
First 7A+ and 7B at the cliff yesterday! Years aims done... steak for tea. good times

Nice one, thats more than a good day out in my book!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on February 17, 2011, 04:18:24 pm
Cheers, yeah, be a while before I have another day like that I recon
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on February 17, 2011, 10:07:28 pm
I quit my job and moved out of my house and now im moving from London to Sheffield all basicly on the spur of the moment.  8a by 30  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on February 17, 2011, 10:17:55 pm
(http://www.queens-theatre.co.uk/archive/showimages/dickwhittington2008.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 17, 2011, 10:28:42 pm
First 7A+ and 7B at the cliff yesterday! Years aims done... steak for tea. good times

Jeepers Dunny, good arrows - assume you got that thing on the Virgin done then? You were hella close last weekend.

7a+...question? Don't tell me you did DWR did you?

As a certain disgraced Scottish football pundit would once have said, "Tek A Bow son"!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on February 17, 2011, 11:56:53 pm
Yeah, thing on the front of the virgin and DWR. Absolutely buzzin
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 18, 2011, 03:14:12 pm
I don't believe this. The 7b must be soft. You must have dabbed, Huw. You know jump starts and leg ups aren't allowed at the Cliff?

well done...I suppose
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on February 18, 2011, 09:40:44 pm
Minor YYFY: After living in California for a year someone finally took me out surfing. Loved it so much I went back out the next day, and even bought a wetsuit. Where has this been all my life? Falling Down - now I know why you get so excited about it :-)

 :beer2:

You'll never get to be CEO now..

I've not surfed for ages  :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 18, 2011, 09:47:38 pm
Yeah, thing on the front of the virgin and DWR. Absolutely buzzin

Effort word - so go on then, toe in the back or heelhook on DWR? Seem to remember you said you'd been trying the toe method?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on February 19, 2011, 11:38:00 pm
Toe in the back.

merci will. keen tomorow?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 20, 2011, 08:15:49 pm
not climbing.... A2 prevents...

Dh MTB, with full on mud tyres


a true revelation.


worth the jet washing of the bike & clothes...

you can train MTB in winter, the clean up worthwhile...

best day out for months.... so tired, so happy...

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on February 20, 2011, 08:26:54 pm
Minor YYFY: After living in California for a year someone finally took me out surfing. Loved it so much I went back out the next day, and even bought a wetsuit. Where has this been all my life? Falling Down - now I know why you get so excited about it :-)

 :beer2:

You'll never get to be CEO now..



Worked out OK for Yvon Chouinard!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 21, 2011, 09:04:31 am
Bummer Jon. I found physio putty helped. Hope it gets better but remember - always seek out good medical advice ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 21, 2011, 10:39:30 am
it's getting better... abstinence by diverting my attentions to my bike is working  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 21, 2011, 12:46:57 pm
A quiet but promising yyfy. 1st morning in the forest. Went to Sablon and spent an hour or so hunting Gruffalo with the boy whilst waiting for the grease to lift. Did Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard 7a+ (7b in the 7s and 8s book) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash) before rain stopped play. Not too bad. Gorge aux Chats tomorrow I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2011, 01:14:27 pm
I you had bagged a Gruffalo as well it would have been awesome. Apparently they eat scrambled snake, so you could set a trap.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 21, 2011, 01:45:41 pm
Silly old Chris, don't you know? There's no such thing as a Gruffalo.

Effort Dr T. They look like cool problems.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 21, 2011, 01:50:42 pm
The snail and the whale is loads better than the gruffalo

(sorry for OT)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2011, 02:03:48 pm
But you can't hunt whales in Font. And snails are no fun to hunt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on February 21, 2011, 02:08:55 pm
but you have the same chance of catching a whale as a gruffalo.

(you really think a French Gruffalo would eat scrambled snake, more likely to go for snake-en-croute or garlic snake)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on February 22, 2011, 04:01:39 pm
A big yyfy not climbing related for me. Big Splash out on a Gibby Les Paul Trad in Iced Tea Burst with 57 pickups and tradition mohog body. Work of art. Thunderous sustain & plays like a dream. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 22, 2011, 04:22:34 pm
Nice choice, Paul.   8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on February 22, 2011, 04:29:03 pm
  Good shout Robins. Saw the pic of the 6 string beast on Faceache,thought you'd succumb to it! Absolute rock'n'roll...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 22, 2011, 04:30:52 pm
Second day in the forest, unfortunately Jr T is a little under the weather and whingy to the max - even Gruffalo hunting didn't cheer him up  :'(. Anyways got a couple of nice things at Gorge aux Chats, Opéra Tchétchène (7a+) (scary top out), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+) and Sa Pelle au Logis (7a) didn't get around to playing on Pokemon, next time (so again a minor yyfy)... Here's hoping for a better night sleep and a nice rest day tomorrow making sand castles at 91....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 22, 2011, 06:26:10 pm
After tearing my rotar cuff near the of last year and no having time to train properly I managed to push my sports in el chorro.

I climb fr6b after going Bolt to bolt on the 2nd red point attempt. After a stupid fuck up on the first attempt. YYFY now time to get back to North wales and do the 6b+ in failed on my last trip

Low grades but am happy :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on February 23, 2011, 12:00:34 am
gave myself the target of climbing 'slim' v7 in split infinity by the end of the summer, got it done today so im super happy maybe able too get something a little harder done!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2011, 05:15:09 pm
it's been a while since I last posted here, and even if sometimes I feel like keeping it all for myself, then I think that a shared happiness is a bigger happiness.
so, here are the problems I did up there:
- Zippy's Traverse
- Captain Hook
- Brad Pit (major YYFY)
- Rock Atrocity (major YYFY)
- Reverse Banana Direct
- The Terrace (unexpected YYFY)
- Bus Stop (unexpected YYFY)

I spare you the details about the Beastmaker session at the gym in L'pool.
I am very very YYFYed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on February 23, 2011, 05:24:55 pm
Nice work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 23, 2011, 06:05:44 pm
it's been a while since I last posted here, and even if sometimes I feel like keeping it all for myself, then I think that a shared happiness is a bigger happiness.
so, here are the problems I did up there:
- Zippy's Traverse
- Captain Hook
- Brad Pit (major YYFY)
- Rock Atrocity (major YYFY)
- Reverse Banana Direct
- The Terrace (unexpected YYFY)
- Bus Stop (unexpected YYFY)

I spare you the details about the Beastmaker session at the gym in L'pool.
I am very very YYFYed.

all good my beast-like Italian friend, a tick-list that I am very jealous of of course....
BUT the real question is what about Malc's One Armer??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2011, 06:11:50 pm
ahah!!!
I failed on that one!!! I tried it, left and right handed, and for an instant I left Mother Earth... but I couldn't pull more!!!
that's one hard move.
it started like a joke, to keep me psyched during the injury, then it turned into something more serious... must be back!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2011, 06:56:04 pm
Did you not make a mould of the hold to take home and train on?

Good ticklist mate!

What is reverse banana direct btw? Some wierd version I'm not aware of?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on February 23, 2011, 07:02:12 pm

What is reverse banana direct btw? Some wierd version I'm not aware of?

This I would imagine:

Quote
From jugs on the left arete, traverse into Banana Finger Direct, then reverse the Banana Finger traverse

http://peakbouldering.info/problems/466 (http://peakbouldering.info/problems/466)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on February 23, 2011, 07:19:01 pm
There's two possibilities. Once you've done the move up to the crimp, you can either reverse the original traverse, or finish up the original.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 23, 2011, 07:24:11 pm
That link is to Banana Reverse, which I know of.

Which of the two options you describe is referred to as Banana Reverse Direct then Drew?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 23, 2011, 10:37:14 pm
It was the traverse L-R from jugs to finish up banana Finger direct. 7aish?

Great ticklist Lore! Shame you couldn't stay and come to the Bowderstone yesterday and enjoyed trying to overcrimp/crush on wet holds!

Will be in touch about Switzerland  :thumbsup:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 25, 2011, 06:12:49 pm
Could have been a NNFN day today as I collected a split tip and a possibly broken toe to add the badly bruised heal from a couple of days ago...  :(
But it was a YYFY when looked at in the round - got Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélène (7a/7a+) and Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a) all of which went reasonably quickly.   :)
Got shut down on Pince-Toi (7a+) but it's always good to have something in mind for next time....
Well back to the UK tomorrow but only about 6 weeks 'til the next trip  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 25, 2011, 07:35:14 pm
Nice, Retour aux Sources is ace isn't it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Resonate on February 25, 2011, 10:58:28 pm
funny how everyone does the same lines at 95.2
and how noone ever does miss KGB...

very impressed with the climbing quality there
roll on march...!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 25, 2011, 11:54:44 pm
funny how everyone does the same lines at 95.2
and how noone ever does miss KGB...

very impressed with the climbing quality there
roll on march...!
Thats because Miss KGB is nails! It's not for lack of trying!
And I did RaS in 200andfucking4 (HALAM) - you're all just riding my coat tails! ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on February 26, 2011, 06:30:33 pm
Thats because Miss KGB is nails! It's not for lack of trying!

I'm glad it's not just me  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 26, 2011, 10:01:14 pm
2004!? Is that supposed to be old skool?  *old man smiley*  ;)

Miss KGB looks fucking nails. Mister Proper next to it is good though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 26, 2011, 10:11:36 pm
Well, it was January 2004...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on February 28, 2011, 04:27:27 pm

Feels a bit weird blowing my own trumpet (and it's not climbing related) but am pretty pleased so:

Quote
Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs. Ski at least two gullies on the tick list

Skied Aladdin's Couloir and Jacob's Ladder on Friday. So chuffed. Aladdin's was great, and quite easy, but Jacob's was pretty hairy so trailed a rope going over the cornice as I was the guinea pig. In reality it was fine though I was a bit scared making that first turn.

(I tried to maintain my UKB credentials by having a smug air of superiority as I skied down Aladdin's past multiple pairs of climbers all roped up)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joeisidle on February 28, 2011, 04:32:44 pm
After many wet days spent on the orme a major YYFY happened when left wall traverse finally got done in its entirety. Now if only right wall would dry out so I could try something new...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on February 28, 2011, 05:05:02 pm

Feels a bit weird blowing my own trumpet (and it's not climbing related) but am pretty pleased so:

Quote
Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs. Ski at least two gullies on the tick list

Skied Aladdin's Couloir and Jacob's Ladder on Friday. So chuffed. Aladdin's was great, and quite easy, but Jacob's was pretty hairy so trailed a rope going over the cornice as I was the guinea pig. In reality it was fine though I was a bit scared making that first turn.

(I tried to maintain my UKB credentials by having a smug air of superiority as I skied down Aladdin's past multiple pairs of climbers all roped up)

I hope there's a thread on UKC moaning about you!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2011, 09:29:34 am
Skied Aladdin's Couloir and Jacob's Ladder on Friday. So chuffed. Aladdin's was great, and quite easy, but Jacob's was pretty hairy so trailed a rope going over the cornice as I was the guinea pig. In reality it was fine though I was a bit scared making that first turn.

Nice one. Friday was the day, mates went up to do them on Sunday but weather was wank. Shout if you fancy any more, there's a couple in Glencoe I have my eyes on, and Black Spout on Lochnagar is my goal for the year. The walk might make you cry though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 01, 2011, 10:34:25 am

 Jacob's was pretty hairy so trailed a rope going over the cornice as I was the guinea pig. In reality it was fine though I was a bit scared making that first turn.

(I tried to maintain my UKB credentials by having a smug air of superiority as I skied down Aladdin's past multiple pairs of climbers all roped up)

Good effort on doing the top of Jacob's. I've bottled out of the cornice every time.

I got a lot of abuse shouted at me on one decent of Alladin's - even though the only other people there were still on the snowslope at the bottom and so not in my fall line.

[smugperior] I got more abuse from them as I overtook them climbing back up again - if either of you are reading this forum please note that I have not collided with any climbers getting in the way of my fun, despite spending a lot of time sliding down things that some people crawl up; so you were wrong weren't you [/smugperior]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on March 01, 2011, 10:42:19 am
They probably were just shouting and screaming as they thought there was a Yeti on the loose.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on March 01, 2011, 10:51:26 am
Nice one. Friday was the day, mates went up to do them on Sunday but weather was wank. Shout if you fancy any more, there's a couple in Glencoe I have my eyes on, and Black Spout on Lochnagar is my goal for the year. The walk might make you cry though.

Friday was the day, the snow was great. Real spring snow. After the couloirs we skiind back up to the top of Coire Cas and skied that and the piste below. The snow was in great nick and because it as so windy, the resirt had been shut all day so we had it all to ourselves! We did have a few others on the list (really liked the look of Pinnacle Gully on Shelter Stone Crag) but the freeze on Friday night left everything bullet proof.

Saturday we did a tour over to Ben Macdui and back, dropping down a nice slope into Lochain. Walk out was a bit long though. Sunday (pretty hungover) we skinned up Lurchers Gully, went over the tops of the coires, up Caingorm and down to within a 10 minute wlak of the ciste car park. A really good weekend!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on March 01, 2011, 11:01:46 am
Good effort on doing the top of Jacob's. I've bottled out of the cornice every time.

It was pretty tame this weekend but the slope below felt pretty steep. The wind didn't help either.

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5220/5488691832_66afc518d2.jpg)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35202205@N02/5488691832/#in/photostream/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35202205@N02/5488691832/#in/photostream/)

I got a lot of abuse shouted at me on one decent of Alladin's - even though the only other people there were still on the snowslope at the bottom and so not in my fall line.

Everyone in Aladdin's was very friendly. Comments were on the lines of, "I was I had some skis" from some guys topping out as we were gearing up and, "Can you hit my mate with your pole and tell him to hurry up" from a frustrated leader.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 01, 2011, 11:39:11 am
Everyone in Aladdin's was very friendly.

That's great to hear.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2011, 01:05:00 pm
(really liked the look of Pinnacle Gully on Shelter Stone Crag)

Yeah, I fancy that. Like the look of Castlegates too

(http://www.highland-instinct.co.uk/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=7317&g2_serialNumber=2)

(between Etchachachan and Shelterstone)

Have you seen the "Wake" Film?
http://www.highland-instinct.co.uk/blog/?cat=9 (http://www.highland-instinct.co.uk/blog/?cat=9)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on March 01, 2011, 01:58:22 pm
(really liked the look of Pinnacle Gully on Shelter Stone Crag)

Yeah, I fancy that. Like the look of Castlegates too

(http://www.highland-instinct.co.uk/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=7317&g2_serialNumber=2)

(between Etchachachan and Shelterstone)

Have you seen the "Wake" Film?
http://www.highland-instinct.co.uk/blog/?cat=9 (http://www.highland-instinct.co.uk/blog/?cat=9)

Yep, saw that in the guide (and it's mentioned in an articles on Extreme Skiing in Scotland from the SMC Journal). Looks good.

I have seen "Wake" but had forgotten about it, I'll re-watch it for research purposes.

(Are those you skis? I thought you werepart of the Beta Ride Brotherhood too? I'm keen on getting some new fatter skis and stiffer boots as skiing fast and hard on my floppy kit is scary. I'm hoping to be touring in Norway for my honeymoon next year so have already mentally justified the expense)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2011, 02:23:01 pm
I am true to the brotherhood, that pic was a cut and past off winterhighland.

Contemplating new ones too, but hard to justify as I ski very little compared to boarding.

Not buying movement skis though - this was the demise of a pair less than a season old.

http://www.facebook.com/# (http://www.facebook.com/#)!/video/video.php?v=10150121997008659

(If you can't see it will post a youtube link later).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on March 01, 2011, 02:58:47 pm

No facebook joy here at work. I've got a pair of 2004 vintage Movement skis and nothing is breaking them, they're bomber!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on March 01, 2011, 03:40:04 pm
What is this topic coming to? Where is the constant stream of posts about campussing, creatine, monos, Font, the Tor and whether anywhere sells V10s?

What is this UKB or UKsliding down big hills on bits of wood?
 ::)

T x x

(actually nice one Nick, sounds like you had a good one!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 01, 2011, 03:47:48 pm
I agree - I only come on this thread to see if Nibile made a mistake and did actually do Malc's One Armer after all  :whistle:

P.S. Are any of these shenanigans accessible by lifts?? I'm guessing not  :???:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2011, 04:00:19 pm
Sorry guys, have been led astray somewhat, blame G. But YYFYs come in many shapes and sizes.

Fiend, Cairngorms ones are kind of accessible - short yomp across plateau and a walk out at the bottom. Not a load of uphill.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on March 01, 2011, 04:28:21 pm

Apologies. The weather (and my ability) has thwarted any climbing related YYFY moments for quite a while so I have to take waht I can get!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Norton Sharley on March 01, 2011, 04:53:09 pm
What is this UKB or UKsliding down big hills on bits of wood?

And skiis at that.  At least there's a separate thread for snoooooooooooooooooooooooooboarding.

Quote
(actually nice one Nick, sounds like you had a good one!)

Agreed, good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robl on March 02, 2011, 08:48:00 am
Back on topic

YYFY - I finally Sent Jess's Roof at the cliff last nite! Just as it got dark   :boxing:
I first had a go probably 18 months ago - then shortly after I ruptured a pulley on my left ring finger, Its been the benchmark for getting back to "fitness" ever since..  well happy!

This year may be the year of my all time goal after all - 8a! :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on March 02, 2011, 12:39:03 pm
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 02, 2011, 12:53:07 pm
Well done Rob :) it was a grand last go of the day effort, right on the edge. Nice one. (glad we don't have to haul the mats up into the cold cave again for a while ;) )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on March 02, 2011, 01:24:18 pm
(glad we don't have to haul the mats up into the cold cave again for a while ;) )

does that mean you did it too?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robl on March 02, 2011, 01:35:53 pm
Cheers!

Tom - we need to get you sending the keel now.. and I might as well start working it too!  :great: In the great words of A. Just man the fuck up and crush it.  :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 02, 2011, 01:59:45 pm
(glad we don't have to haul the mats up into the cold cave again for a while ;) )

does that mean you did it too?

No, no.. That'd be a big double yyfy! I'm a little way off jess' at the moment. It feels like 3-4 moves of 6, followed by 6c, 7a, 7a+ and a c.7b move then easier throw for the jug. I've done all except the hardest moves on their own or in some combo, and he tough move feels do-able, but not quite yet. It could be right up your Street Nai... But it's bastard sharp on the skin. Good tick Rob.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 02, 2011, 07:09:38 pm
Come on tom, you were tickling the hole on the Keel! Get it done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 02, 2011, 07:16:58 pm
Come on tom, you were tickling the hole on the Keel! Get it done.

Was that you there last Thursday Andy? (if so I half recognised you - think we said hello once at Caley..).. The Keels proving oddly frustrating, I seem to get core failure after about 5 or 6 attempts and my heel around the back of the fin keeps peeling off.. can't figure it out! Sometimes it just works fine - next moment its mr saggy (!?!?).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 03, 2011, 09:01:58 am
Aye that was me. By the sounds of it you need to get the heel far enough up, then it should be easier as it holds you in nicely. Keep working it; you'll get stronger quickly until you do it and it doesn't even feel that hard after all...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on March 03, 2011, 12:03:53 pm
Come on tom, you were tickling the hole on the Keel! Get it done.

Was that you there last Thursday Andy? (if so I half recognised you - think we said hello once at Caley..).. The Keels proving oddly frustrating, I seem to get core failure after about 5 or 6 attempts and my heel around the back of the fin keeps peeling off.. can't figure it out! Sometimes it just works fine - next moment its mr saggy (!?!?).

Worn out, thin rubbered boots, toe hooked in the pocket, no heal, and dead point the hole, could be an easier way?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on March 03, 2011, 12:46:04 pm
I hate the Keel, I can get to the pocket move OK but can't latch the pocket without a dab.  Grrrrrr :furious:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 03, 2011, 01:47:13 pm
A rare case of harder for the tall/lanky gent/lady?  Or just lack of core?

On that topic, I re-watched Best Forgotten Art the other day and Joe Brown hits the nail on the head about routes that are easier for tall/harder for short with the Promontory Traverse at Black Rocks, as he says he's just not tall enough to to stand on the footholds and reach the slopey holds easily so its a route that is harder for the vertically challenged.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on March 03, 2011, 01:53:10 pm
Joe Brown hits the nail on the head about routes that are easier for tall/harder for short with the Promontory Traverse at Black Rocks, as he says he's just not tall enough to to stand on the footholds and reach the slopey holds easily so its a route that is harder for the vertically challenged.

"...the second pitch is an absloute bloody doddle."  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on March 03, 2011, 01:57:56 pm
Best Forgotten Art ... the Promontory Traverse at Black Rocks

Am I remembering correctly that that is the film/route where we see $HIGHLY_CAPABLE_LADY_CLIMBER (Airlie?) appearing to have some difficulty on an E1, resulting in me thinking "that's an E1 I must remember never to go anywhere near"?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 03, 2011, 02:18:08 pm
Its Dawes' film about crack climbing (http://www.johnnydawes.com/shop/), can't remember if there's anyone struggling on an E1, I don't think the climbs even have the grades listed (perhaps to lull people into trying Sentinel Crack as he makes it look piss easy!).

Back on topic

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5490388567_a1d5439602_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bonuel/5490388567/)
Erin almost topping out problem #4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bonuel/5490388567/#) by Bonuel (http://www.flickr.com/people/bonuel/), on Flickr

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5131/5401297772_6d76be94c9_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/psteeper/5401297772/)
TdB Halifax-8004.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/psteeper/5401297772/#) by UC Bluenoser (http://www.flickr.com/people/psteeper/), on Flickr

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 03, 2011, 02:37:59 pm
Erm isn't this YYFY not dfbwgc slackers?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 03, 2011, 02:48:21 pm
Erm isn't this YYFY not dfbwgc slackers?

 :oops: :sorry: Shouldn't have had that second pint at lunch time
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2011, 02:56:46 pm
Clearly something amiss with you today.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 03, 2011, 03:00:34 pm
 :pissed:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 03, 2011, 03:01:14 pm
Bad nights sleep. I'm knackered and not thinking very clearly at all (even considering sacking off climbing this evening!).  Thought hair of the dog at lunch time would sort me out, but hasn't really helped (although the falafel I had was good).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on March 03, 2011, 03:37:54 pm
Id be thinking YYFY looking at the mangle of limbs going on there!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on March 03, 2011, 04:34:25 pm
Best Forgotten Art ... the Promontory Traverse at Black Rocks

Am I remembering correctly that that is the film/route where we see $HIGHLY_CAPABLE_LADY_CLIMBER (Airlie?) appearing to have some difficulty on an E1, resulting in me thinking "that's an E1 I must remember never to go anywhere near"?

It is Airlie Anderson and it's Promontory Traverse. She gets a bit freaked on the second pitch, but pisses the first one, contrasting with Joe's description of how he found it. A route that's hard no matter what height you are and no less fall potential for the second than the leader! It's been on my ticklist for ages but I somehow lose enthusiasm for it once I get to the crag.  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on March 03, 2011, 05:02:33 pm

Back on topic

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5490388567_a1d5439602_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bonuel/5490388567/)
Erin almost topping out problem #4 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bonuel/5490388567/#) by Bonuel (http://www.flickr.com/people/bonuel/), on Flickr

[quote/]

That's from a mate's photostream. There were always some pretty tidy lasses at the wall in Toronto. They also used to out climb me quite comfortably.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 03, 2011, 11:20:34 pm
Bad nights sleep. I'm knackered and not thinking very clearly at all (even considering sacking off climbing this evening!).  Thought hair of the dog at lunch time would sort me out, but hasn't really helped (although the falafel I had was good).

you do a job where you can drink at lunchtime?


jesus christ mate...

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 03, 2011, 11:22:06 pm
my finger has stopped hurting... OH YES

now, just the hideous dermatitis in my finger tips to get over and I'll get back on me board!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 03, 2011, 11:41:21 pm
Bad nights sleep. I'm knackered and not thinking very clearly at all (even considering sacking off climbing this evening!).  Thought hair of the dog at lunch time would sort me out, but hasn't really helped (although the falafel I had was good).

you do a job where you can drink at lunchtime?


jesus christ mate...

 :ang: worst that can happen is I fall asleep at my desk (or offend someone with beery breath).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on March 06, 2011, 06:41:10 pm
Just done RZA roof on my second go (first go was about a year ago) :strongbench: and finally did the prow thing  below Big al Quaeda which for some reason I've never been able to do. Basically an awesome day at Robin hood's stride/ Cratcliffe with much onsighting  :thumbsup: .
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on March 07, 2011, 10:54:35 am
Nice one Yoof!

Not (directly) climbing-related, but after months with the axe hanging over my head at work, I've survived the chop and will be employed until at least next year's County Council budget. Well pleased.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 07, 2011, 10:38:11 pm
my finger is getting better
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Soap on March 08, 2011, 12:44:02 am
Had a 4 day bouldering weekend. Went to Pex today and managed quite a few problems I couldn't touch 6 months ago, fingers have definitely improved but bloody hell Pex still feels nails
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on March 08, 2011, 07:55:06 am
Fed up of sat in the office looking out at the crispy weather last week, a freind and I booked friday afternoon off and took full advantage.
Started at Curbar at 13:30 where we warmed up at Trackside, did Traqskside first go, flashed the two nice eliminates just lfet of trackside, retro flashed Gorilla Warfare, got Early Doors 2nd go then headed up to Baslow as my fiend was keen to get Flatworld ticked... Which he did. I hadnt been on it before but it looked right up my street, and so after just under an hour of tyring I found myself hanging off the jug tagging my friends fist, I was so happy to do this one.
We finished at the Eagle Stone with The good the bad and the beagle and a couple of pops at The beagle has landed untill it got dark.... A very productive half-day off work and one of the most enjoyable sessions to date  :w00t:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 08, 2011, 08:56:47 am
bloody hell Pex still feels nails

I don't think that ever changes...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on March 08, 2011, 09:24:59 am
good skills Eddie my friend, time to go and find something hard to do before it gets warm.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 08, 2011, 11:22:19 am
I found myself hanging off the jug tagging my friends fist
DAB!
back around
 :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 08, 2011, 12:06:43 pm
after just under an hour of tyring I found myself fisting my friend

Sorry, can't help myself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on March 08, 2011, 12:21:11 pm
...Yes yes, very good!
I do try to make it as hard as possible for you lot to find an innuendo in my posts!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 08, 2011, 01:34:35 pm
I do try to make it as hard as possible

Again, sorry.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luthor on March 08, 2011, 10:17:43 pm
Finally ticked Mark's roof at Gardoms!  :thumbsup:
Prob tried it about half a dozen times over last 18 months but stuck on the last move.
Pretty chuffed to get it done
L
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chriss on March 09, 2011, 05:09:40 pm
Ticked Jerry's Traverse at Cratcliff yesterday- first Grit 7b. Was worth the 4.30am start & long drive up.

I also brushed other peoples tick marks, picked up there scummy bits of tissue & cleaned up the general shit. Do people not have ethics any more?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 17, 2011, 07:57:39 pm
Not much going on in here recently - I'll assume everyone is just projecting...

However, I have a series of small and inconsequential YYFY.

a) My fingers are not threatening to blow up when I trick them into crimping - Hoorah - this has been some time in coming!

b) Yesterday I went for my first trip to Cheddar since 24/10/2010 and, despite having the stamina of a person with particularly weak stamina, I managed to onsight 'crème de la phlegm' <- a groove which was quite fun and had a play on Ya-Boo Yorkie which will hopefully succumb to a siege attempt on Sunday.

c) I also went to the park today in the bootyful weather with my new 25m slackline and successfully juggled, turned around multiple times, stood up from sitting, did 2 solves of my cube in one attempt and generally succeeded in not making a complete arse of myself infront of the group of manly men who were talking about how they would run their own nightclub, and the group of applauding girls who were having a loud 'penis' shouting contest a little way off.

(yes - I love showing off  ;D )
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on March 18, 2011, 12:00:01 pm
I've never understood the conection between climbers and slacklining.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 18, 2011, 12:08:05 pm
I've never understood the conection between climbers and slacklining.

Some people who climb also slackline, and some people who slackline also climb.  Then there are some people who climb who don't slackline and some who slackline who don't climb.  Here's a handy Venn Diagram I knocked up to show this graphically...

(http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/119/climbslack.png)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 18, 2011, 12:28:02 pm
Don't be so fucking literal........oh sorry, it's you slackers.

The point is, why is there a perceived connection between the two. Some people who go climbing also put Ikea furniture together but they wouldn't feel the need to include that activity in a climbing film.

Personally I'd much prefer to see Ikea furniture assembly in a bouldering film than slacklining which is (in my opinion) a tedious pile of wank.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2011, 12:29:54 pm
Building Henjj?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 18, 2011, 12:35:10 pm
the "modern" bouldering film, among true beasts and crushers, HAS to feat at least one of said beasts' closest friends, who by chance appears to be an idiot, pops up in front of the camera doing stupid faces, saying "shibadang" or the likes, wearing ridiculous hats or t-shirts and never completes a problem. he/she'll be the drunkest at night.
this character can be seen slacklining in the movie.

SERIOUS DISCLAIMER. I don't mean that slackliners are that way- I mean that the climbers that I have seen slacklining in the the climbing vids I've seen were like that.

AND NOW RAGE ON.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 18, 2011, 12:47:03 pm
Blame the media!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2011, 01:46:14 pm
who by chance appears to be an idiot, pops up in front of the camera doing stupid faces, saying "shibadang" or the likes, wearing ridiculous hats or t-shirts and never completes a problem. he/she'll be the drunkest at night.
this character can be seen slacklining in the movie.

In mainstream films this is usually referred to as the "comic relief".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baloo on March 18, 2011, 01:58:11 pm
Did Ben's Wall at RHS yesterday. Not bad for an old man, 39 today!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 18, 2011, 01:58:38 pm
Sorry to have enraged you so Jasper.

I do it because it is:
a fun activity for rest days,
it sucks less than running,
you can do it in a park with friends,
my body doesnt feel like it wants to fall apart when I do it.
It's fun to come up with stupid things to do on them

and dont be dirty minded  :spank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 18, 2011, 02:07:30 pm
Re: slacklining. I think the association is dependent to some extent on the time to climb/amount climbed relationship.

A weekend warrior such as myself spends a lot of time at work, spending time with the children or maintaining spousal relationships. Any time I have to climb is limited and I am always in deficit in terms of the things I want to climb. Thus during activity time I JUST WANT TO CLIMB, warm ups are short not much time for example is spent sighing and sitting around having lunch. Thus such activities as slacklining are not at all part of my climbing milieu.

I contend that if I was on some never ending world traveling follow the sun climbing trip then I might well reach a point where for a temporary period my time to climb/amount climbed relationship might reach parity leaving me open to do something else with the expanses of time I have, beyond drinking or sleeping. At this time slacklining might become an attractive option, for a limited period.

This relationship may also be responsible for Hackey sack circles and other arcania seen from time to time on climbing films depicting the eternally not working.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on March 18, 2011, 02:14:46 pm
I always thought hackey sack and slacklining were for people who couldn't do proper sports.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on March 18, 2011, 02:17:20 pm
what, a bit like climbing  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 18, 2011, 02:19:01 pm
Based on activity/postings on this site one might just as reasonably ask....

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and surfing."

or

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and mountain biking"

or

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and road cycling."

Now it might seem that those who climb participate in these other activities at a higher rate than those who don't climb, but really you'd need to work out the prevalence (X per 100,000 of the population) of each activity in the general population and then within the who climb 'population' before you can say there is a "connection", and even then you have to bear in mind....

(http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/correlation.png) (http://xkcd.com/552/)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2011, 02:28:16 pm
Based on activity/postings on this site one might just as reasonably ask....

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and surfing."

or

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and mountain biking"

or

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and road cycling."


....snowboarding.

......football.

.......yoga.

.......hot foods

......looking at DFBs

.....the Olympics :)

....etc
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 18, 2011, 02:30:23 pm
I find it amusing that slack---line is 'defending' slacklining.  :P

I second the mountainbiking connection in Bristol. So many people seem to do it.
Now 'if' there is a correlation then isn't it quite probable that the reason for it is that the people that like to spend time outside in the woods dodging danger are happy to spend time outside whatever the activity...therefore more climbers do outdoorsy stuff relative to the general population.

Anyways  :offtopic:

Congrats Baloo  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 18, 2011, 02:35:26 pm
Sorry to have enraged you so Jasper.

Enraged, moi? :shrug:  :-*

Slackers there really is no hope for you my friend!  :geek: :geek: :geek:


Congrats Baloo  ;D

 :agree:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 18, 2011, 02:44:22 pm
Yeah, nice one Baloo, Happy Birthday, and 39 is not old.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on March 18, 2011, 02:51:40 pm
(http://www.ropelocker.co.uk/images/slackline.jpg)

(http://www.themouseworks.com/images/HAT-PHOTOS/Jester/Jester-teal-purple-raspbery_small.jpg)

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31a5nqwAVvL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)

(http://www.paulemmett.co.uk/web_images/didgeridoo.jpg)

 :wall:




Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 18, 2011, 03:04:32 pm
Based on activity/postings on this site one might just as reasonably ask....

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and surfing."

or

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and mountain biking"

or

"I've never understood the connection between climbers and road cycling."


....snowboarding.

......football.

.......yoga.

.......hot foods

......looking at DFBs

.....the Olympics :)

....etc

Exactly!!!!

I find it amusing that slack---line is 'defending' slacklining.  :P

I'm neither defending nor denigrating, I'm saying that the apparent "connection" should be quantified objectively.

Slackers there really is no hope for you my friend!  :geek: :geek: :geek:

Blame lagers and Lucy A, they put me onto my current reading material...

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51VA3NskorL._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-click,TopRight,35,-76_AA300_SH20_OU02_.jpg)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on March 18, 2011, 11:04:31 pm
(http://www.ropelocker.co.uk/images/slackline.jpg)

(http://www.themouseworks.com/images/HAT-PHOTOS/Jester/Jester-teal-purple-raspbery_small.jpg)

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31a5nqwAVvL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)

(http://www.paulemmett.co.uk/web_images/didgeridoo.jpg)

 :wall:

you forgot the biggest sin of all..............dreadlocks and beaded necklaces. get back in your fucking camper vans  :wank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on March 19, 2011, 10:33:14 am
Personally I'd much prefer to see Ikea furniture assembly in a bouldering film
Jaspers I am building a couple of wardrobes and a chest of draws but i dont have a video camera sorry. I will try and grab some photos for ya

Back on topic I finally did a problem I have been trying for at least 18 months. Not the hardest problem I have done but nice to get it done FINALLY!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 19, 2011, 10:54:03 am

Jaspers I am building a couple of wardrobes and a chest of draws but i dont have a video camera sorry. I will try and grab some photos for ya


Oh that old chestnut! How is that supposed to be conclusive proof, you could have got someone to do the tricky bits for you?

Do you have an indepndent witness who actually saw you build these items cos this smacks of bullshit to me? Really nowadays when everyone has a video camera on their phone there's no excuse for not having some proper evidence to back up cutting edge furniture assembly claims.


Back on topic I finally did a problem I have been trying for at least 18 months. Not the hardest problem I have done but nice to get it done FINALLY!!!

Nice one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on March 19, 2011, 11:10:34 am
Oh that old chestnut! How is that supposed to be conclusive proof, you could have got someone to do the tricky bits for you?

Do you have an indepndent witness who actually saw you build these items cos this smacks of bullshit to me? Really nowadays when everyone has a video camera on their phone there's no excuse for not having some proper evidence to back up cutting edge furniture assembly claims.
What are you suggesting! That I will make false claims on achievements on flat pack furnature I am shocked and disgusted

I am starting on the bathroom cabinate now. my house looks like an ikea stock room ...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: RAK Punter on March 20, 2011, 06:26:27 am
Oh that old chestnut! How is that supposed to be conclusive proof, you could have got someone to do the tricky bits for you?

Do you have an indepndent witness who actually saw you build these items cos this smacks of bullshit to me? Really nowadays when everyone has a video camera on their phone there's no excuse for not having some proper evidence to back up cutting edge furniture assembly claims.
What are you suggesting! That I will make false claims on achievements on flat pack furnature I am shocked and disgusted

Not just the achievement but its style that is important.  There is significantly more credibility in an on site solo with (all pieces correctly incorporated at first attempt without aid of additional glue or duct tape compaired to a redpoint with half the pieces mysteriously not required; use of instruction book and multiple calls to the call centre  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on March 20, 2011, 09:21:26 pm
Great week after finishing a old boulder problem the other day. I flashed my first E2 today leading browns eliminate. Not to find one to onsight psyched!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2011, 08:32:42 am
Nice one. You don't need to look too hard, there are plenty of quality E2s out there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 21, 2011, 10:04:06 am
Great week after finishing a old boulder problem the other day. I flashed my first E2 today leading browns eliminate. Not to find one to onsight psyched!!!

If you turned round, Big Crack was behind you (on my list to do soon).  Brightside at Froggatt is good, great gear and straight-forward climbing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on March 21, 2011, 10:46:49 am
and, of course:  :wank: :wall:
(http://www.stevegarufi.com/raingathering1.jpg)

Whats Jasper done wrong?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2011, 10:48:42 am
Argggh, fucking tomtoms. Had to endure an entire night of that shit at the Pines campsite at Arapiles.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on March 21, 2011, 11:15:59 am
What have I started (sorry for taking the thread off topic)  :worms:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 24, 2011, 08:49:19 pm
What have I started (sorry for taking the thread off topic)  :worms:
you are a bad, bad man!  :spank:


On the plus side I have happiness to report to get us back on track.

1th - I did my 'project' in the beautiful sunshine in Cheddar yesterday. 'House Burning Down' - first proper attempt of the day after placing clips and having one previous go on another day.
Pretty happy, even if it is a soft grade. The last one of this grade took me 3/4 trips and multiple efforts so I appear to be a fair bit stronger (maybe).

2th - I just put my shiny new beastmaker up, so let the beasting begin!
Pocket Pulling Power in time for font!
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on March 25, 2011, 01:16:46 pm

2th - I just put my shiny new beastmaker up, so let the beasting begin!
Pocket Pulling Power in time for font!
 :dance1:

Dafty, this is all you need  :whistle:

(http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQAHUjMzw7wnVk2xasgVNsXDb9FAmWaTn3gjhX9VzyfE3WC23W-zA)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 25, 2011, 06:25:48 pm
dammit, I knew that sounded familiar!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on March 25, 2011, 09:28:00 pm
Pocket Pulling Power in time for font!
 

Fontainebleau: land of the pocket.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 25, 2011, 11:41:53 pm
Pocket Pulling Power in time for font!
 

Fontainebleau: land of the pocket.

That reminds me - must try Les Monos at Buthiers again at Easter
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on March 25, 2011, 11:46:10 pm
its shit, don't bother
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 26, 2011, 12:48:15 am
I thought the same when we went there on the first day...but then again I was weak and shit at pockets so what do I know?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DaveC on March 26, 2011, 07:20:53 am
Thankfully my main period of residence at the Pines (3 months) was in the spikey hair era when any bongo-wielding hippie would have been tied to a tree and rectally assaulted with a stumpy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiliqua_rugosa). However many years later I had the pleasure of camping near a "drum circle" at Indian Creek  :wall: :wall: :wall:

Aaah yes! The denizens of Camp Hog were always good at dealing with unwanted hippies who strayed into the pines back then. Happy days!
Were you there when somebody ended a late night group sing-a-long by chucking a not-quite-empty aerosol can (I think it was of insect repellant) out of the dark and straight into their fire? Not very smart thing to do but it was incredibly funny at the time.....

Sorry, this is just way  :off:, I'll go now!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on March 26, 2011, 10:07:18 am
were they 'bugging' him?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DaveC on March 26, 2011, 10:56:16 am
 :slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 26, 2011, 11:16:31 pm
Back on actual topic:
I tied on to a rope today for the first time in an age and led Wings of Unreason and Ascent of Man at the Roaches. Really good fun I must say, especially Ascent of Man. Tasty smears. We did some bouldering in between and had a top day. YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on March 28, 2011, 08:40:42 am
Not bouldering related sorry,but rach gave birth to Ophelia late last night.yy triple fucking yes
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on March 28, 2011, 08:51:11 am
Congratulations Mark and Rach...  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2011, 08:57:55 am
Nice one mark. Remember sleep is overrated.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on March 28, 2011, 09:01:56 am
Back on actual topic:
I tied on to a rope today for the first time in an age and led Wings of Unreason and Ascent of Man at the Roaches. Really good fun I must say, especially Ascent of Man. Tasty smears. We did some bouldering in between and had a top day. YYFY!

Nice one Sam  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: metal arms on March 28, 2011, 11:21:27 am
Back on actual topic:
I tied on to a rope today for the first time in an age and led Wings of Unreason and Ascent of Man at the Roaches. Really good fun I must say, especially Ascent of Man. Tasty smears. We did some bouldering in between and had a top day. YYFY!

Nice one.

Wings is brilliant, but I wouldn't know about the other as I bottled it!

My YYFY, did a 7a at cheedale on saturday, which is my 2nd ever and right on time to get me psyched for a french bolt-clipping road-trip extravaganza!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 28, 2011, 12:02:37 pm
I hope to be YYFYing about cheedale 7as later in the summer.

Re: road trip, for better training you should repeat the 7a whilst bloated on a french bread, croissant and jam breakfast. I really think that will help.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on March 28, 2011, 02:08:32 pm
Went to Almscliff on saturday and did Jess's Roof 1st go, been meaning to try it for ages.  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on March 28, 2011, 07:49:13 pm
second v7 sent, the cow's did sing
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on March 28, 2011, 08:42:20 pm
Did my first font 6b in a session on Saturday at  Bowden - made all the sweeter as it was also my first that was not on grit. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 28, 2011, 08:50:41 pm
Did my first font 6b in a session on Saturday at  Bowden - made all the sweeter as it was also my first that was not on grit.

Nice one Butters... theres a 7a somewhere winking at you - saying come on - climb me,,, ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on March 29, 2011, 11:31:54 am
YYFY! Did my first 7a on Sunday in Turkey - Agustos Bocegi. I can hear malham calling...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on April 04, 2011, 05:10:23 pm
milf hunter delux just sent my first v8 fooookkk!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 04, 2011, 08:54:51 pm
At last I have finally sprockled my way up a sport 8. First ascent of Moddey Dhoo, 8a+ at Trollers Gill. Which means I've got the triumvirate of eights, and an 8 F.A. in each discipline. YYFY ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on April 04, 2011, 09:03:52 pm
quality, congrats!

big tick in the scheme of things it seems, did you try it much?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 04, 2011, 09:46:31 pm
It took a few sessions and a fair number of redpoint attempts.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on April 04, 2011, 09:56:00 pm
Skillz Nik. No surprise at all.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on April 04, 2011, 10:17:29 pm
an 8 F.A. in each discipline. YYFY ;D

BEAST  :strongbench: nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 04, 2011, 10:46:52 pm
 :2thumbsup:  :bow: Well done Nik.  Remind me, what was the Font 8a you put up again?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 04, 2011, 10:52:00 pm
HLMGTFY (http://tinyurl.com/3obolgv)

Twice in a day Slackers...  ;) (couldn't resist)

(Oh and well done to NJ)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 05, 2011, 06:49:47 am
Should have left the that I put in then removed.  :tease:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 05, 2011, 08:15:51 am
At last I have finally sprockled my way up a sport 8. First ascent of Moddey Dhoo, 8a+ at Trollers Gill. Which means I've got the triumvirate of eights, and an 8 F.A. in each discipline. YYFY ;D

Pah! What's he ever done on grit? Has he really consolidated at those grades? Where is the video evidence? Of course, it's much easier for people that light to get up eights. This "number chasing" is not what climbing is really about. He'd never be able to do all that if he had a job and a family and didn't have all that sponsorship and a training manager and that chauffeur driven limousine and a team of rock cleaners to prepare his projects. Bet he couldn't do Nicks Wall - that's proper hard. Anyone could do it if they had all that Legotm training.

oh, sorry - thought I was somewhere else for a moment

Nice one Nik. YYFY indeed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 05, 2011, 08:25:36 am
At last I have finally sprockled my way up a sport 8. First ascent of Moddey Dhoo, 8a+ at Trollers Gill. Which means I've got the triumvirate of eights, and an 8 F.A. in each discipline. YYFY ;D

Nice one Nik. Just a VIII to go then. best get some axes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on April 10, 2011, 10:31:19 pm
Non climbing YYFY warning.

I did the Kinder Downfall fell race today. 9.6miles up and down. It was my first fell race and I wasn't sure what to expect but I really enjoyed it, beasted myself and finished in 1:33:28 and 85th place. MINT!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on April 11, 2011, 10:10:51 am
Non climbing YYFY warning.

I did the Kinder Downfall fell race today. 9.6miles up and down. It was my first fell race and I wasn't sure what to expect but I really enjoyed it, beasted myself and finished in 1:33:28 and 85th place. MINT!

Nice one  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 11, 2011, 11:54:20 am
Missus and I skived off work on Friday, left wee man in nursery for the morning and got on the sea cliffs for some cragging for the first time since she was too pregnant to climb any more (late summer 2009). Just the two of us punting up a few easy routes in the warm morning sun, simple pleasures we used to take for granted.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 11, 2011, 04:05:08 pm
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on April 11, 2011, 09:18:15 pm
SA Chris: Sounds rather idyllic! good effort :)

My spine (which was as crooked as a corkscrew that had been bent) is now straight enough and stable enough to let me do EASY climbs- Roll on the F6bs  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on April 11, 2011, 10:27:10 pm
9 days in font. Mint weather, trashed skin and great company.  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on April 13, 2011, 12:46:04 pm
yyfy.
just seen the consultant and having my bicep reattatched in 2 weeks. really pleased as i was really worried that too mich time had passed to have it fixed (5 weeks since it snapped)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on April 13, 2011, 12:54:10 pm
Had 3 targets for this Font - ticked them all!!
La Balaine, Yogi and Magic Bus YYFY  :2thumbsup:

Unfortunately my left arm has pretty much given up the ghost  :no:
Going to Font with Font Elbow was never gonna be good but rest and ice this afternoon might, might allow a little more climbing tomorrow and Friday - Fingers crossed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 13, 2011, 12:58:27 pm
Great news Jim and good effort Dr T!

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gus on April 13, 2011, 04:12:17 pm
Time for some slabs jim!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on April 20, 2011, 08:02:00 pm
I have a baby daughter! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on April 20, 2011, 09:28:32 pm
 :clap2:

Nice one, Yos. Daughters are cool.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 20, 2011, 09:46:20 pm
 
I have a baby daughter!
:dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2011, 10:43:10 pm
Whoot! Nice one Yoss.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on April 21, 2011, 09:30:31 am
I have a baby daughter!
:thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on April 21, 2011, 02:38:20 pm
I have a baby daughter!
Nice one!   :great: :great: :great:
Daughters are great.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 21, 2011, 02:43:43 pm
Give it a few years and your house is full of pink and Troy/Gabriella, you won't be saying that!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2011, 02:49:47 pm
Off to cottage at Rhue near Ullapool for the week as of Saturday, boulders in walking distance of cottage, and forecast as good as you could hope for in Scotland;

http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Ullapool/long.html (http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Ullapool/long.html)

and nae midges yet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on April 21, 2011, 03:28:25 pm
bit of a non climbing YYFY.

Finally  moved house last week, now living where we want to live and closer to the quarries..  :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 21, 2011, 03:35:00 pm
http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Lochaline/ (http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Lochaline/)

vs

http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Lochaline/ (http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Lochaline/)

 :-\ :-\ :-\

Might see you up there next weekend or even this one, Chris. You never know.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2011, 03:39:56 pm
You got my number mate, you are welcome. We might even have a spare bed, or comfy camper van if you want to avoid the wee man's 6:30 wake up call. We will be there early afternoon 23rd and will be away late morning on 30th though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 25, 2011, 07:27:11 pm
Well I've been home from Font since lunchtime and have managed to resist the temptation to post on this thread for a few hours but...

On what has certainly been the hottest Font trip I've ever been on I managed to get out for an early session on Tuesday and managed to shaz-waz a flash of this:
http://bleau.info/guichot/895.html (http://bleau.info/guichot/895.html)
Jasper will be disgusted by the complete lack of bikes and Spaniards in this ascent, I replaced them with a wife and a four year old.

Thanks to Neil for suggesting it as something worth looking at.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 25, 2011, 07:39:40 pm
SKILLS!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on April 25, 2011, 10:25:15 pm
http://vimeo.com/groups/67003/videos/21430060 (http://vimeo.com/groups/67003/videos/21430060)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on April 25, 2011, 10:55:13 pm
So, fresh on the heels of the old 8a/8A/E8 first ascent shizzle, I guess there's no pressure at all to flash an 8a now.  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on April 25, 2011, 11:21:57 pm
Good. Work. That. Man.

 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 26, 2011, 08:45:58 am
Easier for the short.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 26, 2011, 09:26:38 am
So, fresh on the heels of the old 8a/8A/E8 first ascent shizzle, I guess there's no pressure at all to flash an 8a now.  :lol:

Hehe spot on! Nice one nik.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on April 26, 2011, 04:52:39 pm
Everyone is on crack this week
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on April 26, 2011, 10:53:51 pm
Given my performance at Kilnsey today I'm a waaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy off an 8a flash...

I'm not sure why everyone is on crack?? but that's the badger in the video Dylan linked to.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: KH on April 27, 2011, 03:31:11 pm
Had a massive YYFY moment last night when I climbed my long term project, The Riot at Dinas Rock.

I've been working this for two years and had fallen off the the last move over 60 times!  It has been a hard earned YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 27, 2011, 03:39:52 pm
I've been working this for two years and had fallen off the the last move over 60 times!

"What would Sharma do?"

Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 29, 2011, 01:12:32 pm
MTG: 6b os in Arco at Easter

Phillip Flann at Regina del Lago - sadly very much not to be confused with the similarly-named legendary Dolomites classic, but good climbing nevertheless.

My third go at a 6b this week, confirming what I already knew about my relative strengths & weaknesses. Philip Flann has a short crux section over a bulge, with a comfy rest beforehand to look at and plan the moves. The other two I tried were steeper and more sustained, with more straightforward moves, but I lack the experience/confidence to see the sequences and go at them quickly enough.

New MTG: overhanging pumpy 6b onsight.

Also ticked a 6B yesterday on the campsite boulders at Prabi.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on May 01, 2011, 01:28:31 am
I went to Hartland Quay for the first time last week. It was brilliant.
Esp. Clinical Edge.
YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on May 01, 2011, 04:27:02 pm
I have a baby daughter!
Nice one!   :great: :great: :great:
Daughters are great.

2nd that :icon_welcome:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 03, 2011, 11:34:21 am
Brilliant five days in Font, nothing of note ('cause I'm shit) but got a circuit done four out of five days (one day only had half a day due to morning rain).  Highlights were blues at Istatis (n = 49) and Roche aux Sablons (n = 46).

Won't be leaving it four years between visits next time.  :chair:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Rocksteady on May 03, 2011, 11:55:16 am
Redpointed Rubicon on Sunday - really enjoyed the moves and line of the climb, great tick for me. Very happy  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 03, 2011, 03:06:24 pm
After busting my finger a month before font I went with very little in mind,

but I came back with 3 'project' ticks
(read unfinished business from other trips)

Jet Set - went on our final morning session before driving home  :)
Graviton - Attempted after Jet Set. First attempt of the trip too  ;D
Holey Moley - 3 years coming for this one, eventually pissed it first attempt of a morning session. YYFY!!!  :great:

Also did a whole load of other things I didnt intend to try, including a flash of lapin ou canard (really easy for 7a?)
Only done a few 7a's in the forest prior to this trip so something must be going well with training for this.


Well Chuffed   :smart:

Unfortunately I also managed to do literally no uni work while I was out there.
Back to Supramolecular chemistry now...  :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on May 03, 2011, 08:44:49 pm
In one day: first F7b, flashed F7b+ :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mr__j5 on May 04, 2011, 10:34:39 am
...

Also did a whole load of other things I didnt intend to try, including a flash of lapin ou canard (really easy for 7a?)
Only done a few 7a's in the forest prior to this trip so something must be going well with training for this.


After doing nothing more than a few 6b+ in Font last week, I pulled on to lapin ou canard on the last morning because others wanted to go back to it for a second go at it.

I topped it within about an hour, making it my second ever 7a after Trackside. So really pleased.

It felt harder than Trackside to me, but definitely at the easy end of 7a.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on May 05, 2011, 11:17:58 am
My goal this spring had been  2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff)    YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on May 05, 2011, 11:21:41 am
My goal this spring had been  2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff)    YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?

Nice one Pyrosis   :great:

Hoping for a similar breakthrough myself!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 05, 2011, 11:45:44 am
Nice one, some good ticks there. Would love to do SSA especially.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on May 05, 2011, 05:10:51 pm
My goal this spring had been  2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff)    YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?

Good work!

Was out at the Buttermilks yesterday morning and finally managed Green Wall Centre - old school V6 crimping - YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on May 05, 2011, 07:38:49 pm
Good Job on the Green Wall! I can't figure that thing out! You up there today? Maybe I will run into you! :)

-Tavis
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on May 06, 2011, 05:43:54 am
Good Job on the Green Wall! I can't figure that thing out! You up there today? Maybe I will run into you! :)

-Tavis

Just been up there this evening and did Seven Spanish Angels - nice problem!
Enjoy the sun and low humidity - I'm heading back to Vegas and then home to Vancouver.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on May 06, 2011, 06:01:02 am
Safe travels! Another beautiful day in the Buttermilk today. Flowers and snakes everywhere :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 07, 2011, 09:14:54 am
I'm here under the roof extension project. Will it go?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 07, 2011, 11:04:35 am
 :strongbench: pull out the guns and go for it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 07, 2011, 11:08:50 am
I'm here under the roof extension project. Will it go?

YES! GO Lore!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 07, 2011, 11:42:00 am
We need a live news feed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on May 07, 2011, 02:43:01 pm
nothing harder than 6b in font for me this year...  climbed 6 days in a row, with the assistance of ibuprofen and antihydral.

brilliant gite

brilliant food

brilliant family holiday

finally done a whole blue circuit in it,s entirity... Guichot... got truly beasted by the red circuit there...  it was rather hot I have to say...and was really scared on the 6s to the right of the 8a.... pulled over a 6b with 4 spotters whimpering!!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ackbar on May 08, 2011, 10:36:12 am
YYFY - The other week I visited for the first time a really great bouldering spot near to my home
NNFN - Then the next time I went, the farmer had smeared all the holds in cow shit (it happens in Austria)
YYFY - Dejected from this, I then found another boulder problem which I decided was going to become a long term project
NNFN - As it is about 3 font grades above my current standard I quickly screwed my fingers up
YYFY - The a friend took me to a place where there are hundreds of nice boulders scattered through the forest
NNFN - But I couldn't climb anything as my fingers were still screwed
YYFY - But we then met some guys who had been climbing in England and said they had gone to have a look at Hubble
NNFN - Then they said, "you know, Hubble, the Jerry Moffatt route"

:-D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 09, 2011, 10:19:23 am
There's winter climbing in camel-land?? :O
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on May 11, 2011, 10:59:19 pm

(On the NNFN side, this has come at the expense of quitting work this summer and moving full-time to Squamish but that is definite for next year, in fact the wife is now saying that we can leave as early as next spring...

Yeah yeah - I'll believe it when I see it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butterworthtom on May 11, 2011, 11:54:35 pm
Does that mean no Squamish this Summer then Toby? 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on May 12, 2011, 06:26:45 am
Does that mean no Squamish this Summer then Toby?
You coming out this summer Tom? Drop me a line if you want a spot...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on May 12, 2011, 06:32:27 am

(On the NNFN side, this has come at the expense of quitting work this summer and moving full-time to Squamish but that is definite for next year, in fact the wife is now saying that we can leave as early as next spring...
Yeah yeah - I'll believe it when I see it!
:-[

It will happen, really, honest. The wife is now on board and making various bourgeois/ elitist Vancouver schooling plans for Thesiger Jr from 2012 which should be irrreversible.
:whip:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 14, 2011, 01:57:03 am
managed to get up after 4 hours sleep and sneak in a short sharp session in UCR while the centre was empty - it is actually quite pleasant when no one is around...
Finger protested but still did a (ucr) 6c lead!
Hoorah!


Then went home, slept, had a shower and went to the library for more work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on May 14, 2011, 07:18:40 am
Back to the library?

Thast more FB than YYFY.

Maybe YYFFS?  :read:  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 14, 2011, 10:18:52 am
Back to the library?

Thast more FB than YYFY.

Maybe YYFFS?  :read:  :lol:

p0rn library? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 15, 2011, 02:22:39 pm
sorry, was meant to be an expression of my pleasure at having snuck in a cheeky climb between revision sessions.
I'll go back to my pr0n library now.  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on May 17, 2011, 08:25:28 pm
I've just fought my way to the top of the motherboard at the works. :weakbench: - I'm on the way to being strong!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris j on May 18, 2011, 08:42:25 am
Finally ended my siege on Empire of the Sun at Ansteys last night. 20-odd days of effort over three years (6 week breaks from climbing due to work every time you get close can be a real downer). Probably 10 falls from the traverse before the final bolt, one 'jammed gri-gri' incident when trying to pull slack to clip the last bolt, one leg behind the rope upside down rib-cracking smack into the rock and now I have an empty void in my life until I come up with the next project.

For anyone interested I reckon the deciding factor was shedding 3/4 stone through half-marathon training in March and April as I didn't climb between the end of November and start of May so I'm not strong right now...

 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2011, 11:40:29 am
Nice one, definitely a worthy seige!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on May 18, 2011, 09:39:21 pm
Though not my ideal YYFY, I've nearly managed to finish rewriting my 3000 word technical specification report that perished in the Great Hard Drive Debacle of '11 with two days of focussed effort and nasal breathing. And it is true, things are better the second time around. Slowly, steadily, breathing, centering, emerging from the catacombs of a mental void. Powered by Jelly Dinosaurs and ambient music.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 18, 2011, 09:41:05 pm
Massive effort Tom, well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 18, 2011, 09:43:22 pm
"ooh, Monolith's posted in YYFY, let's hope it's good news." Well, you didn't disappoint.

 :2thumbsup:

Good work beast. I too have been working on a wave of jellied sweets and ambient music. At one stage about 3 weeks ago I hadn't heard a drumbeat in about a week. Now that's ambient.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on May 18, 2011, 09:48:06 pm
Thanks guys. Though it might sound a joke, I really value the year I spent going to yoga and learning to meditate. It's helped me no end.

Currently listening to:

http://samurai.fm/rightrightright/rightrightright-44-dr-rob-fleeting-moments (http://samurai.fm/rightrightright/rightrightright-44-dr-rob-fleeting-moments)

A track just after the middle of the waveform is simply sublime. I haven't heard such an emotive track in a long time. Really worth listening to.

May all of your respective YYFY's come to fruition!

(.P.S Mr Popp - I hope you're continuing to unearth fine sandstone in the regions nearby?? Looking forward to seeing your good self and Pete in due course)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 18, 2011, 09:53:28 pm
Tonight's the last late night, I think you've just answered my question as to whether to take the music up hard and heavy or down to chilled and focussed.

Here's my frequent poison of choice:

http://astrangelyisolatedplace.com/ (http://astrangelyisolatedplace.com/)

With these in particular giving me aural pleasure:

http://astrangelyisolatedplace.com/2010/11/20/asc-deep-space/ (http://astrangelyisolatedplace.com/2010/11/20/asc-deep-space/)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on May 19, 2011, 03:01:43 pm
Top effort, Tom. Glad its working out for you.

(http://assets0.ordienetworks.com/images/GifGuide/dancing/bale2.gif)


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 19, 2011, 03:11:12 pm
good effort Tom, very glad to read that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on May 19, 2011, 07:22:26 pm
Great news Tom and well done.  The experience will stand you in good stead for the future when all around you are losing their heads.  All the way through you've staed positive, looking for a solution rather than problems and blaming the world, not whining and taking it step by step. I predict great architectural deeds ahead.  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tom de Gay on May 19, 2011, 10:47:52 pm
Recently got a bit over-excited at the prospect of climbing outside (or even climbing at all) and found myself sproggling my way up Psycho at Caley. I never ticked this even when I was climbing well and lived 20 mins away, in fact it had become a bit of nemesis after wobbling off the top slab around '97 and getting kneed in the head by my spotter! The lack of spotters was probably a psychological boost this time round.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 07:39:32 am
Good work.

Wobbled my way up Long Johns Slab last night for my first (soft-ish) E3 lead.  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on May 20, 2011, 08:04:03 am
Nice one Slackers :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on May 20, 2011, 08:24:32 am
Did my first 6A, Zip Zut at Isatis. Although it's a piece of piss, isn't it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 20, 2011, 08:39:07 am
Good work.

Wobbled my way up Long Johns Slab last night for my first (soft-ish) E3 lead.  :bounce:

Nice one Slackers :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 09:07:18 am
Cheers, had to tell myself that if I was bouldering at Font on similar moves they'd have been done first go (i.e. remove the thought of height and focus on the climbing), worked well. :smart:

I think it'll be a while before I get any more E3's ticked, plenty of consolidation at E2 required first (ideally over next two months before a trip to the Dolomites).

Good work fried, visited Isatis for first time the other month and really liked it.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 20, 2011, 09:25:08 am
Nice work SL, that opens the door to a big wide world of bold grit slabs....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 20, 2011, 09:39:21 am
Cheers, don't think I'll be pushing the boat out much further though, at least for a while.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on May 20, 2011, 09:40:22 am
Cheers Slackers, Isatis is indeed lovely, even more so when you get to skive off work midweek and get the place to yourself (almost) :2thumbsup:

Good work on them slabs :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on May 21, 2011, 09:03:50 pm


Currently listening to:

http://samurai.fm/rightrightright/rightrightright-44-dr-rob-fleeting-moments (http://samurai.fm/rightrightright/rightrightright-44-dr-rob-fleeting-moments)

A track just after the middle of the waveform is simply sublime. I haven't heard such an emotive track in a long time. Really worth listening to.



This music site is great! I hadn't heard of it before, there's such a wealth of awesome mixes.  :2thumbsup: It's great you can just search stuff by style. Currently listening to a house/jazz/tribal mix. Cheers for the link Monolith!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on May 21, 2011, 09:58:05 pm
Cheers, had to tell myself that if I was bouldering at Font on similar moves they'd have been done first go (i.e. remove the thought of height and focus on the climbing), worked well. :smart:

Good effort Slackers, that's exactly my experience of the few times I've managed to tick E2 / E3 - shut down everything else and focus on the sequence / moves. Annoyingly, seems to be a pretty difficult state of mind to switch into...

Mentioned it on the Paul's E4 thread but Telli's another good E3 if you fancy another crack at the grade...decently protected (*cough* small cams *cough*), 2 bouldery sections and the top section is, I gather, a bit less fluttery if you've got a bit of reach.

Parallel Piped's also worth a look for a straightforward, safe-ish bouldery E3 when you next go back to Froggatt - I picked up an old "Peak Supplement" guide which has it a HVS!


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on May 25, 2011, 07:59:39 am
I bagged my first 'hard' sport route last night.
On my third session, after working the route it went in fine style last night and I stood onto of 'Too old to be bold' (f7c) at Rubicon... My hardest climb before that was The Cairn at Harpur Hill (f7a/7a+)

Heres to a summer of sport  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on May 25, 2011, 08:09:00 am
Nice one :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on May 25, 2011, 08:16:30 am
f7c ... My hardest climb before that was The Cairn at Harpur Hill (f7a/7a+)

Wow! And to what to do you attrbiute the three grade jump? Were you not trying before? Does a winter of beastly hard plastic training lie in between? Were you onsighting everything before and this is the first time you've seriously redpointed anything?

What, in other words, can the rest of us copy in order to achieve similar results?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on May 25, 2011, 12:21:27 pm
Good question, a bit of everything really.
I'm a boulderer who finds it hard to get my head together on routes, and until recently ive not spent any time training power endurance which definately made the difference to me on this route despite it being very short!
Also ive not really spent any time working a route before, I feel very pressured and have rushed previous attempts to work a route, despite TOTBB only taking me 3 visits. I felt relaxed and able to take my time to work out the beta for myself.

The weather definately helped too, ive never experienced dry periods on the lime as long as this before. Im realy physced to get some more routes done this summer  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 26, 2011, 10:33:38 am
Putting the effort in and actually trying...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 26, 2011, 11:07:40 am
Putting the effort in and actually trying...

Which is somewhat dependent upon...

The weather definately helped too, ive never experienced dry periods on the lime as long as this before.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 26, 2011, 01:46:06 pm
Damn right!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on May 26, 2011, 02:16:39 pm
Which is somewhat dependent upon...

The weather definately helped too, ive never experienced dry periods on the lime as long as this before.


Quite. In my previous climbing career as a UK weekend trad punter, I can count the number of dry weekends I ever experienced on, e.g., Cloggy on the thumbs of one hand.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on May 27, 2011, 07:48:28 am
I bagged my first 'hard' sport route last night.
Effort. Nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on May 28, 2011, 11:55:41 pm
Finished my degree on Thursday. Caley this evening. Doing bold routes, it would seem, is so much easier when your head isn't riddled with stress.
 
:punk: PSYCHE! :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 28, 2011, 11:57:15 pm
you didn't fall off then?

nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on May 29, 2011, 12:00:03 am
Fortunately not!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on May 30, 2011, 04:58:06 pm
Just got back from my first taste of the grit :)

Couple of nights in the Don Whillans Hut then played around on Upper and Lower Tier boulders at the Roaches. Top stuff.

Got utterly spanked in terms of grades, and wussed out of Joe's arete as I sprained my ankle a few months ago and still not 100% confident landing on it from height - but had a wicked time all the same.

Aside from the quality of the bouldering, was also blown away as to how stunning it is up there.
I can see what the fuss is about now....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on May 31, 2011, 11:47:19 am
Just got back from my first taste of the grit :)
...
Aside from the quality of the bouldering, was also blown away as to how stunning it is up there.
I can see what the fuss is about now....

Grit is king. Good effort for getting out on it :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 01, 2011, 05:53:05 am
this is a bouldering site. its not a good effort if someone goes out bouldering
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on June 01, 2011, 08:05:10 am
It is when you have to drive 4 hours to get there...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: account_inactive on June 01, 2011, 09:04:04 am
No, it's just mildly inconvenient
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on June 01, 2011, 09:23:32 am
It is when you have to drive 4 hours to get there...

Wtf

glad you enjoyed yourself, but that's not exactly an arduous journey

this is a bouldering site. its not a good effort if someone goes out bouldering

did Durbs accidentally sit on your hamster whilst enjoying the grit   :-*

This isn't significant repeats and maybe is a yyfy moment for a grit-virgin.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 01, 2011, 11:45:20 am
Don't be ridiculous. As if dense would own a hamster.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 01, 2011, 02:28:22 pm
Crumbs, who took the jam out of your doughnuts? Glad you enjoyed yourself, Durbs.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 01, 2011, 02:59:31 pm
Dense being dense. The foody mucker.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 01, 2011, 03:35:44 pm
Don't be ridiculous. As if dense would own a hamster.

He's not exactly Richard Gere is he...

:/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 01, 2011, 05:06:27 pm
its not a good effort if someone goes out bouldering

 :lol:

I just love the authorship here. How's the works rings champ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on June 02, 2011, 12:02:15 am
So I went to Stoney Middleton. Onsighted Bubbles- E4 6b (I thought E3 6a), lapped it 2 times on toprope, seconded carl's wark crack, flashed Quent's dyno (I thought font 6c, though) Did the Kirton Dyno 2nd go (Once again 6c) and then nailed Lucian's undercut. BOOM.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on June 02, 2011, 08:37:55 am
I was going to punter you but something changed my mind....................
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on June 02, 2011, 10:46:42 am
something changed my mind....................

Lucian's undercut by any chance? You showed me the problem a while ago, and I've had a real epic on the last move.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 02, 2011, 07:42:46 pm
i've just sprinted the length of a football pitch 8 times. that would be me sprinting once , walking back medium paced while listening to iron maiden, repeating a further 7 times. to finish i had a gentle stretch and slow walk back whilst listening to johnny cash. someone wad me cos this is impressive shit worth talking about
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on June 02, 2011, 09:46:13 pm
Sorry. :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: reeve on June 02, 2011, 09:51:11 pm
Dense maybe you could start your own thread called 'You are shit shit fucking shit', where we can all post about things that have made us happy, but you could counter-post pointing out that we're actually all pretty average. Afterall, it's good to keep grounded   :hug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 02, 2011, 09:55:18 pm
What Iron Maiden tracks you moody cunt??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 02, 2011, 10:16:12 pm
I want to hear more about the hamster..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on June 02, 2011, 10:44:29 pm
Things have been falling together recently. Got Not My Stile, New Jerusalem and the Pinch ticked at Caley. Also worked up the courage for Permutation rib ;D

But today the cherry on top was getting Demon Wall Roof done! My first V7, well happy :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on June 03, 2011, 07:26:08 am
What Iron Maiden tracks you moody cunt??

As if you had to ask...

http://www.youtube.com/embed/1LtaD63zYoQ (http://www.youtube.com/embed/1LtaD63zYoQ)

How the hell do you get youtube vids to appear auto-magically - sure there used to be a button to do that...  :???:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 03, 2011, 08:25:00 am
As slackers is on holiday........

You don't do anything, just cut and paste the url:

Daley Thompson 1985 Lucozade Advert (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LtaD63zYoQ#ws)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2011, 08:40:28 am
Nice one.

Also worked up the courage for Permutation rib ;D

Remember shitting it good on that in pre-mat days, was there on my tod and my bottle went when I got across onto the arete, and stood there gibbering in the fading light. Realised only choice was to man up and get on with it. recall it was a pretty productive evening - did Angel Wall and Rabbits Paw Wall for the first time on the same evening.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 03, 2011, 01:18:27 pm
i've just sprinted the length of a football pitch 8 times. that would be me sprinting once , walking back medium paced while listening to iron maiden, repeating a further 7 times. to finish i had a gentle stretch and slow walk back whilst listening to johnny cash. someone wad me cos this is impressive shit worth talking about
That only impresses me if you weigh twelve stone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on June 03, 2011, 11:54:11 pm

That only impresses me if you weigh twelve stone.

He does
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 04, 2011, 12:23:54 am
fucking lightweight
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 04, 2011, 11:14:13 am
Not climbing related and I am risking the wrath of Lee as "someone getting a job" isn't particularly interesting ;-) but..... I got a new job/promotion managing a new store in Carlisle! Happy days finally :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 04, 2011, 12:40:53 pm
so what you got a job well done for getting off your arse

 ;)

On a serious note, good effort! You must be pretty chuffed! What store?

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on June 04, 2011, 04:12:33 pm
Ann Summers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on June 04, 2011, 04:47:43 pm
Nice one Golt...

This is you and your team right?

(http://i2.digiguide.tv/up/1105/735214-PhoneShop-13046892878.6.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 04, 2011, 05:58:22 pm
Ann Summers.
sweet... I need a new butt plug, can you hook me up with a discount?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 05, 2011, 10:08:26 am
don't misunderstand me so fast, getting a new job is a YYFY, going on a road trip for 6 mths is a YYFY, having sex for the first time (yoof) is a YYFY, going bouldering in britain on a british website is not really a YYFY moment is it?
on a more serious note, i would be up for that reeve and you still need to get your hair cut.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 05, 2011, 10:43:27 am
Im only yanking your chain mate! To answer the questions I am now working for White Stuff selling clothes to yummy mums but coincidentally the Ann Summers shop is only a few doors away so if your still after your usual black studded size XL plug you adore so much Jim I can actually help!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on June 05, 2011, 11:23:17 pm
Despite the rain (down south), had a particularly good day of 7a o/s, 7a+ o/s (although a bit of eliminate) and a 7c 4th go! Only second 7c yet...so, I was/am pretty chuffed! (Sport climbing in Cheddar)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on June 05, 2011, 11:56:51 pm
which problems did you onsight?

Good work on the 7c - was it mescalito?

I was down on saturday and had a strange day of zero psyche but also climbing fairly well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dexter on June 06, 2011, 11:49:44 am
got my first 7C yesterday been a long time coming  :strongbench:  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on June 07, 2011, 06:42:55 pm
HI Archie,
So the 7a which was great fun was Raw Deal (soft, but awesome)...the 7a+ was The Minstrel - not recommended as too eliminate - I followed the chalk and it took me right instead of left (guidebook doesn't mention either).
Then Seven Months Later was the 7c - awesome! Finger locking, fist jamming, toe jamming, arete climbing, heel hooks - short but everything is in it!!! Really recommend it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: al123 on June 09, 2011, 11:27:59 pm
did D.I.Y at stanage tonight! not too hard but only my 2nd E3 so im pretty pleased. im in love with gritstone slabs.  :wub:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 11, 2011, 07:18:44 pm
I'm not sure if I should have run this by Dense first to see if it meets the criteria for the YYFY thread, but anyway...

Finally got Virgin Traverse done today - at last!

Been one of the things I've known that I need to do in my quest to tick all the problems up to 7a in the last guide, and I have to say it's one of the most protracted sieges I've had in ages...for 6b+!

That said, it's well out of my comfort zone - I don't do burl or stamina - so despite the lowly grade am stoked to get the tick. I've personally found this harder than Dolphin Belly Slap (which I ticked in a session, with a hangover and a bruised bottom from pinging off one of my initial attempts), and Gorilla Warfare (similar in that I lacked the stamina to be precise enough on the final moves), but at least they're at the top of my grade!

Yorkshire eh?  ::)


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on June 11, 2011, 07:29:05 pm
Boulderer goes bouldering etc....

Well done but.
I don't do burl or stamina

Quote from: Adam Ant 1979
What do you do?


 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i_a_coops on June 11, 2011, 08:15:58 pm
I still have a dodgy finger, and I can't walk properly yet, but I don't care. I just did 3 full one armers. Easily.

Cha'mone! 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 11, 2011, 10:25:19 pm
Boulderer goes bouldering etc....

Well done but.
I don't do burl or stamina

Quote from: Adam Ant 1979
What do you do?


 :punk:

OK, fair play - probably low in the stakes for a YYFY but it's been a right mission. Had a session on Thurs eve where failure on said problem became a metaphor for my own general failure in life, job, relationships etc etc...strange what this game can do to one's psyche once you get something into your head.

As for the Adam Ant question...in order of preference:

Crimpy slab
Slopers / padding slab
Balancey arete
Walls
One-move wonders

and then way, way, waaaayyyy down at the end is pumpy, stamina sapping lurching coupled with technical tiptoe-ing across crimps.

And then finally dynos.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 12, 2011, 09:58:56 am
You must love Almscliff then. Eh???
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on June 13, 2011, 07:22:53 pm
Did my first one armer today :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 13, 2011, 07:41:04 pm
can get my left arm straight again! yay
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: highrepute on June 13, 2011, 07:52:01 pm
I still have a dodgy finger, and I can't walk properly yet, but I don't care. I just did 3 full one armers. Easily.

Cha'mone! 8)

Good to hear you're on the recovery! Are you using the beastmaker much? stay motivated!

I still have your rope and chalk bucket, need them back yet?

James
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on June 15, 2011, 05:54:47 pm
Over the last few days I managed to get out and do minions way and tufted crack! I feel like i've made a step forwards in my jamming initiation :smart:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i_a_coops on June 16, 2011, 10:55:15 am
Good to hear you're on the recovery! Are you using the beastmaker much? stay motivated!
I still have your rope and chalk bucket, need them back yet?

Hey I heard you did Comedy, nice! (and respect for getting off the grit!)

I'm not hitting the BM too hard as I want to give my finger ligament a chance. I've been doing quite a lot of pullups and core stuff though. (Minor YYFY of doing a 2 finger one armer this morning... I'm cool)

As for the rope, it'll be another 4 weeks or so before I can climb again, I'm sure we can organise to go climbing in the same place at some point after that for me to pick it up. Cheers!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: al123 on June 16, 2011, 09:49:47 pm
soloed pebble mill ground up today  ;D had to get a rope lowered down from the top from the sort of ledge thing as it started raining and i thought it was going to chuck it down but did the move easy, thanks again to whoever it was who lowered the rope!!!! then went back later and soloed it, brilliant route, first anything about E3 (unless you count wings of unreason but it E2ish for me.) 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 17, 2011, 07:57:21 am
Nice work al  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andybfreeman on June 17, 2011, 09:26:33 am
I've booked my flight so on 7/10/11 i am moving to Australia for a year of climbing YYFY!  :2thumbsup: :dance1:

Now just need to pull my finger out and finish some UK projects before I leave.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on June 17, 2011, 11:36:38 am
Good work, Australia is the future.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 17, 2011, 11:48:06 am
Do they have hoverboards?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 17, 2011, 11:49:36 am
Do they have hoverboards?

No, but they do have a Welsh prime minister... does that count? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Norton Sharley on June 17, 2011, 12:08:11 pm
soloed pebble mill ground up today  ;D had to get a rope lowered down from the top from the sort of ledge thing as it started raining and i thought it was going to chuck it down but did the move easy, thanks again to whoever it was who lowered the rope!!!! then went back later and soloed it, brilliant route, first anything about E3 (unless you count wings of unreason but it E2ish for me.)

How can you have soloed it ground up if you had a rope on the top third?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on June 17, 2011, 02:50:10 pm
If the rope comes from the bottom can it be ground up?

(http://franklycurious.com/media/1/20100725-indianRopeTrick.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: al123 on June 17, 2011, 07:22:41 pm
soloed pebble mill ground up today  ;D had to get a rope lowered down from the top from the sort of ledge thing as it started raining and i thought it was going to chuck it down but did the move easy, thanks again to whoever it was who lowered the rope!!!! then went back later and soloed it, brilliant route, first anything about E3 (unless you count wings of unreason but it E2ish for me.)

How can you have soloed it ground up if you had a rope on the top third?
cause i went from the ground to the top???? like in onsight when jack gerald calls for a rope when he gets scared, he still claims the ground up? its not like I practised the moves before.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: al123 on June 17, 2011, 07:38:02 pm
soloed pebble mill ground up today  ;D had to get a rope lowered down from the top from the sort of ledge thing as it started raining and i thought it was going to chuck it down but did the move easy, thanks again to whoever it was who lowered the rope!!!! then went back later and soloed it, brilliant route, first anything about E3 (unless you count wings of unreason but it E2ish for me.)

How can you have soloed it ground up if you had a rope on the top third?

and giving me negative karma for " a climber goes climbing"????? jesus, so if chris sharma, goes climbing and sends a 9b or whatever, it isnt a big achievement or a YYFY moment for him or anything cause you know its just a "climber going climbing"?????? i posted it in here because it was a yes yes fucking yes moment. first E5 climb and a brilliant one at that but if your correct i guess i should have just stayed calm and said " well im only a climber going climbing" fffooookkkkk me, if everyone took that attitude, this thread would be dead.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 17, 2011, 08:51:57 pm
Well done on Pebble Mill. I agree with you about the "climber goes climbing" jibes. However, this isn't ground up. Sorry to piss on the chips.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on June 17, 2011, 09:42:09 pm
either way.. whatever you call it... he's done it... it an ace route ( hard mentally for the grade IMO) and that's cool..

what's missing from this thread is



well done mate!


I was well stoked ( using modern terms) when I did it... a long time ago i admitt

and yes before pads and before head pointing was named... I did check it out on a TR 1st... and frankly I didnt care.

The bloke just did something that made him happy....

well done!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 18, 2011, 06:04:18 am
even more importantly; he's got me thinking about doing Pebble Mill again
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ianv on June 18, 2011, 10:34:22 am
 :agree: with fatdoc and I think its a bit shit that the lad got puntered for being psyched about a climb he did, on a climbing website.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 18, 2011, 11:01:31 am
maybe the other guys are as confused as i am al? from the statement that a rope was lowered down for the top third i have inferred from this that you tied onto said rope from stood on the ledge? if so this is about as yyfy as me waking up this morn, if not then of course its ground up and good effort n all that jazz
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 18, 2011, 11:20:41 am
Since when has this thread moved from being an outlet for joy at having done something that means alot to the person posting; to being some sort of judgemental ranking system for whether or not it was worthy?
 
Daft.

In my view a YYFY can range from having a kid, popping your first ollie, doing an 8A... submitting your thesis/dissertation: something that means a great deal to the person doing it and they feel the need to share it with the rest of the board. Thats what it seems like to me. I've posted on here about making my first 7a+, 7B and 7B+ respectively - all of which were projects that took several weeks/months so meant alot to me....

This ISNT the signficant repeats thread... which seems to be more focused on whether or not something is significant or not.

I also suggest we all step away from the whole ground up/onsight/flash/headpoint/hamster vs gerbil debate  - as its all starting to sound a bit like the other channel....

(well done al btw...).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: al123 on June 18, 2011, 11:31:51 am
thanks for the comments and i guess everyone is entitled to a opinion on it.
yes i did get the rope lowered from the top as i was on the small ledge thing after the crux but with a 5b/c move left involving a balancey move with a small crimp, i just didn't fancy committing to that move as it had started raining and looked like it was just going to carry on raining and worsen so i thought if i dont get out of here im stuck on this ledge getting piss wet through and scared so i opted for the rope then did the move, went away, came back and soloed the route from the bottom. maybe not ground up or whatever but surely better than top roping it and getting it wired ( no offence to when you did it Fatdoc ) and surely a good effort for my first E5?? infact this is the first E route higher than E3 for me. but since i had a rope on the last third because of the rain i guess its a shit effort and not worthy????
just my two cents....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AJM on June 18, 2011, 11:43:10 am
Then Seven Months Later was the 7c - awesome! Finger locking, fist jamming, toe jamming, arete climbing, heel hooks - short but everything is in it!!! Really recommend it!

Will bear that one in mind for the future - having had my own YYFY moment ticking House Burning Down as my first 7b+ (in 2 sessions, which surprised me) earlier this week I've been eagerly scanning the guidebook for new things to get stuck into...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 18, 2011, 04:57:07 pm
ha ha, yes it is a good effort. however its not what you wrote, you said you'd ground upped an E5 and you haven't. this isn't a jibe at you, its the context of the interweb. its like me going to a pr0n shoot claiming to have 12 inches then everyone laughing at me cos its only 8
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on June 18, 2011, 05:18:58 pm
ha ha, yes it is a good effort. however its not what you wrote, you said you'd ground upped an E5 and you haven't. this isn't a jibe at you, its the context of the interweb. its like me going to a pr0n shoot claiming to have 12 inches then everyone laughing at me cos its only 8

Laughing because your idea of 8 inches is different to everybody elses?!  :-*
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 18, 2011, 06:06:55 pm
maybe not ground up or whatever but surely better than top roping it and getting it wired ( no offence to when you did it Fatdoc )
Yes it is better. It's definitely a good effort for trying to do it ground up and not top-roping it.
Quote
and surely a good effort for my first E5??
But it isn't E5 that way. The E5 is for the experience of doing it all onsight.

Congrats on your attempt though, I respect that. Much better to attempt in a good style.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on June 18, 2011, 06:09:41 pm
its like me going to a pr0n shoot claiming to have 12 inches then everyone laughing at me cos its only 8

You missed the centimetres off the end of your post.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 18, 2011, 06:28:50 pm
thats how these threads survive andy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 18, 2011, 06:56:03 pm
I went climbing today Lee. Think I did 19 hand movements. YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ianv on June 18, 2011, 09:02:33 pm
I also suggest we all step away from the whole ground up/onsight/flash/headpoint/hamster vs gerbil debate  - as its all starting to sound a bit like the other channel....

(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5025/5845200509_8519b1e9be.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5845200509/)
Picture1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37621241@N05/5845200509/#) by ianvincent (http://www.flickr.com/people/37621241@N05/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bubba on June 18, 2011, 09:18:05 pm
Since when has this thread moved from being an outlet for joy at having done something that means alot to the person posting; to being some sort of judgemental ranking system for whether or not it was worthy?
 
Daft.

In my view a YYFY can range from having a kid, popping your first ollie, doing an 8A... submitting your thesis/dissertation: something that means a great deal to the person doing it and they feel the need to share it with the rest of the board. Thats what it seems like to me. I've posted on here about making my first 7a+, 7B and 7B+ respectively - all of which were projects that took several weeks/months so meant alot to me....

This ISNT the signficant repeats thread... which seems to be more focused on whether or not something is significant or not.

I also suggest we all step away from the whole ground up/onsight/flash/headpoint/hamster vs gerbil debate  - as its all starting to sound a bit like the other channel....

(well done al btw...).

:agree: with everything Tom says here - FFS this topic is about celebrating those things that make you feel "YYF Yes!" ... no matter what it is.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on June 18, 2011, 10:17:24 pm
I punched an old old lady in the face today it was f***ing mega YYFY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on June 18, 2011, 11:32:36 pm
Do they have hoverboards?

No, but they do have a Welsh prime minister... does that count? ;)

And an economy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on June 19, 2011, 10:03:18 am
I had 8 wanks today,not done that since my 16th birthday! Yyfy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bubba on June 19, 2011, 10:04:20 am

That's good going for 10am.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on June 19, 2011, 10:04:41 am
I had 8 wanks today,not done that since my 16th birthday! Yyfy

I once went 11 years without a wank. And then I turned 12.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: measles23 on June 19, 2011, 02:03:18 pm
Sorry, enough onanism already, back on topic – climber went climbing and enjoyed it shocker etc..

Have been exploring the boundary between recreation and obsession recently and after 20 odd sessions have overcome the biggest psychological challenge I can remember by climbing low left press at t’rubicon.

After dropping it from the last move early on I got trapped in a rut of knowing I could do it but failing to get the job done; got into a vicious cycle of struggling to link the start, then figuring out a “solid” way of sharing the sloper after getting too tired to link it, coming back next time and finding the “solid” way wasn’t solid at all, flailing around failing to link, discovering a new “solid” sequence, too tired etc.. on and on I count I’ve done that sloper-sharing move twelve different ways!

Then I found a technique that was solid and had a session falling off the last move or the press 5 times in a row, knowing I would get it next time; next time came round and I just lost my mojo and couldn’t remember how to position my body at all – back to square one aaargh..

So armed with my latest solid sequence and an alpine start, with nothing but an angry swan and some moorhens as witnesses I got on it this morning.
Unfortunately the problem is long enough for me to have a distracting internal dialogue that goes something like this:

Little angel on one shoulder: “Right let’s do it”
Little devil on t’other shoulder: “hmm little finger feels bit greasy on the sloper, you’re not gonna get it this time”
Lil devil: “hmm toe-hook’s popped too early you’ll be off for sure”
Lil devil: “you’re not very fresh, this all feels a bit tenuous”
Lil angel: “well actually you have linked the traverse and there’s still something left in the tank..”
Lil devil: “that was a bit wild you haven’t got the press hold well you’ll have to waste juice repositioning, no chance…”
Lil devil: “you’ve not held the crimp too well – not feeling the bite from it, and you’re very low to make the last move – you’ll drop it again like you always do..”

And then something changed – that little devil got distracted for just a second, the voices went quiet and time slowed; the next fraction of a second felt like minutes and I could feel every point of contact - could tell I had the crimp OK enough, feet felt solid and I felt a new texture, a new traction from the press hold that I knew meant I didn’t have to drop it again. Time started up and before I can think I can feel the big bite of the final jug and my arms just want to keep pulling up and up in the jugginess of it all!

I’d promised myself a proper reserved British celebration such as “well done mate, right what’s next” but in the end let out such an uncontrolled bellow that Lagers heard me from the car park and thought the celtic hordes were invading..

I think we’re very lucky that there are so many different ways of enjoying the sport – next week I’ll be out on grit VDIffs with the wife and doubtless have a great day out – but there is something so uniquely special in that fraction of a second of actually doing a sequence of moves that have taken so long to master..

Yes, yes..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Norton Sharley on June 19, 2011, 05:44:53 pm
I didn't suggest Al's ascent wasn't worthy,  I simply questioned how it could be a ground up solo when it involved a rope? I think the most impressive aspect was going back to solo it 'properly'. 

What does seem like the other channel on here these days is the amount of spray.  I'll get my coat shall I?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 19, 2011, 09:45:11 pm
An awesome post, Measles. I felt a little YYFY myself reading it. The little devil is all too familiar and I'm always surprised at how often a problem might still be possible even when something so glaringly imperfect has happened as taking the crimp etc a little far right.

Next time I feel de-syked I will come back to this thread and read your post. Well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jakes on June 20, 2011, 10:16:55 am
Re: little devils on shoulders, i.e.having negative thoughts on projects, I found the section on competitions and mentality in Moffat's/Grimer's Revelations useful- worth a read if you havn't done already. Plus I liked grimer's note at the back with his positive mentality mantra of "I am Jerry Moffat".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 20, 2011, 11:30:41 am
I had 8 wanks today,not done that since my 16th birthday! Yyfy

Welcome to fatherhood ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 20, 2011, 11:33:55 am
Good achievements all round, but some grumpy fuckers making themselves heard on here and on "significant repeats". All a but UKC for my liking.

Went Zorbing on Friday great fun, i think I hurt myself laughing too hard. Vid to follow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on June 20, 2011, 09:19:00 pm
keen to see that....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 20, 2011, 10:50:00 pm
Right, I'm going indulge myself and get this thread back on track.  :chair:

Yeah Yeah Fucking YEAH YEAH YEAH  :dance1: 

Went down to Dumby tonight despite it being the third day climbing in a row, as the forecast is shit for the rest of the week. Warmed up, conditions felt ok considering the odd spit of rain and looming dark clouds. Quick text to check a belayer is coming, fuck no - everyone's bailed!  One of the Dumby regulars turns up looking to do a route, nice, we're on!

Get on my project, put the clips in, feels ok today - redpoint is on. 10 minutes rest and chilling out, but redpoint nerves are getting to me. Have 2 shit redpoints and moan about "crap conditions", belay John on his project.

Get back on the route trying desperately to fool myself into believing this is not a redpoint, I'm only stripping the route. Clip, move, clip, foot swap, crux, clip, twist, jug. From the first move to the last I'm repeating "it feels really good, it feels really good..." 3 more moves, through the second crux and hit the jug, this time - no mistake on the easy heel-hook move I've fallen off before, 3 more easy clips, chains, done, nothing. Weird anticlimax, no urge to shout or fist pump. Odd.

So, first F8a done, 7 or so sessions on it, 13 months after my triple-ligament knee operation!  Think it might be time to change my avatar!  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on June 20, 2011, 11:05:11 pm
 :great:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 21, 2011, 06:50:21 am
Good work Fultonius, you must be chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nan on June 21, 2011, 08:40:17 am
On-sighted yosemite wall at malham. Not my first of this grade but wanted to do this route since i first saw it in the guide.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 21, 2011, 10:07:49 am
Good work Fultonius, you must be chuffed.

Cheers - sure am!  Quite a feeling to do something you thought you never could.  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 24, 2011, 12:04:03 pm
Just got degree classification back. Got a first! YYFY!

:bounce: :smartass:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2011, 12:11:04 pm
Nice one Will. Clever bastard.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 24, 2011, 12:26:33 pm
Pah. Bloke goes to university, gets piece of paper.  ;)

Effort Will.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on June 24, 2011, 12:35:26 pm
Just got degree classification back. Got a first! YYFY!

:bounce: :smartass:

Since I've been in a position of interviewing graduates I don't give anyone who got a first the time of day. They obviously didn't "enjoy" university or make the best use of their time their. It's not because I'm jealous or intimidated, nope.....

Well done Will, hopefully you'll be in the pub celebrating already.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 24, 2011, 12:36:51 pm
All the best folk in life get 2:1s - you should've drunk more!

Good skills!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 24, 2011, 02:34:33 pm
Well done Will.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on June 24, 2011, 03:07:04 pm
 :clap2: :smartass: you clever boy you! Well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 24, 2011, 04:01:18 pm
Of course, back in my day, when a first really was a first etc. etc, blah, blah, blah.


Seriously, well done Will.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 24, 2011, 05:07:47 pm
Of course, back in my day, when a first really was a first etc. etc, blah, blah, blah.

I distinctly remember you saying this whilst on your board one evening. "...back in the days when a first really meant something." I think were your exact words. How they have haunted me!

Thanks everyone!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on June 24, 2011, 05:28:59 pm
All the best folk in life get 2:1s - you should've drunk more!

Good skills!

Everyone knows the best is a Desmond. Even more drinking...or stupidity.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 24, 2011, 06:14:12 pm
Of course, back in my day, when a first really was a first etc. etc, blah, blah, blah.

I distinctly remember you saying this whilst on your board one evening. "...back in the days when a first really meant something." I think were your exact words. How they have haunted me!

Thanks everyone!

Jesus Will, did I really say that? Sorry! Note to self: stop being boring old fucker.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 24, 2011, 06:25:31 pm
Good work Will, now trying using your degree to get a job, if your experience is anything like mine was, it won't be easy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 24, 2011, 06:33:08 pm
Don't worry, Andy! I knew it was in jest!
We'll see, Andi. Hopefully I'll do a masters next year and postpone the inevitable fruitless job search.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 24, 2011, 06:36:55 pm
Do what I did, get a shit job for a year and climb, then do a masters.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 24, 2011, 06:50:43 pm
Will, you're still online. I order you to get down the pub. Now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 24, 2011, 07:02:27 pm
Do what I did, get a shit job for a year and climb, then do a masters.

Well done will.

If you delay a year, chances are masters will be 9k too...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 24, 2011, 07:54:39 pm
Will, you're still online. I order you to get down the pub. Now.

Internet enabled phone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 02, 2011, 08:11:03 pm
Did my first 6A+ flash today YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 03, 2011, 02:38:19 pm
If you delay a year, chances are masters will be 9k too...

I thought masters courses were funded differently? Mine was £8,000 anyway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 03, 2011, 03:17:50 pm
If you delay a year, chances are masters will be 9k too...

I thought masters courses were funded differently? Mine was £8,000 anyway.

Naa, we get the same 'subsudy' for masters as for ugrad.. So is very likely they'll up the fees..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on July 04, 2011, 11:13:47 am
Hopefully I'll do a masters next year and postpone the inevitable fruitless job search.

The post graduation job search; i'm in there too. I hear McDonalds is quite a good employer really..... :thumbsdown:


To return to the thread as it should be.... did supercool 4th RP on Saturday (though the first 3 were on thursday!); best route in the UK for mortals  :worms: (rainshadow looks pretty good...) Although this was tinged with more regret than i've ever had on doing a route before: it's so good i wasn't tired of climbing up it yet!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Serpico on July 04, 2011, 11:32:45 am

To return to the thread as it should be.... did supercool 4th RP on Saturday (though the first 3 were on thursday!); best route in the UK for mortals  :worms: (rainshadow looks pretty good...) Although this was tinged with more regret than i've ever had on doing a route before: it's so good i wasn't tired of climbing up it yet!

Nice one, I don't think there's much of a  :worms: about the quality of Supercool though - it probably is the best sport route in the UK. As for PSCD (Post SuperCool Depression), it's a real condition -  I struggled to find anything to motivate me after SC. My recommendation is to get on Urgent Action before anything else gets pulled off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 04, 2011, 01:35:47 pm
2.1 in degree. Super happy to be done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 04, 2011, 01:45:27 pm
Fantastic!  What a year you've had!!

Go out and celebrate.  :pissed:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 04, 2011, 02:37:56 pm
Nice one! Was that what you were on track for before the shit hit the fan?

It's been emotional.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 04, 2011, 02:50:35 pm
Nice, all the hard work recovering from the HD failure was worth it (hope you've got a decent back-up of the new version).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 04, 2011, 03:01:46 pm
Nice one Tom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 04, 2011, 09:20:17 pm
Really great achievement Tom, much deserved; as will be the celebrations.

Bit OT but I thought there were fewer firsts about this year, only one or two on the programme I'm responsible for. Tomtom?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2011, 09:28:08 pm
A good year for us Andy.. 11 out of 110.. (oops, thats 10%!) but you have good years and bad years...

and congrats Tom :) excellent result - go forth and drink :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on July 04, 2011, 09:32:45 pm
2.1 in degree. Super happy to be done!

 :clap2: Have a  :beer2: get a little  :alky: and  :dance1: all night. Maybe even some  :lets_do_it_wild:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 04, 2011, 09:47:31 pm
A good year for us Andy.. 11 out of 110.. (oops, thats 10%!) but you have good years and bad years...

and congrats Tom :) excellent result - go forth and drink :)

Mine's a much smaller programme so probably about 5%. Other courses (especially those with significant maths component) were probably much nearer 10%.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on July 04, 2011, 11:25:14 pm
Nice one, I don't think there's much of a  :worms: about the quality of Supercool though - it probably is the best sport route in the UK. As for PSCD (Post SuperCool Depression), it's a real condition -  I struggled to find anything to motivate me after SC. My recommendation is to get on Urgent Action before anything else gets pulled off.

motivation not a problem. Skin, conditions, fatigue, yes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 04, 2011, 11:32:44 pm
Effort Monolith, you deserved it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 05, 2011, 07:14:33 am
case closed. effort brother.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 05, 2011, 10:36:45 am
 :2thumbsup:
Well done Tom. Awesome HD disaster recovery.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 05, 2011, 03:35:20 pm
Cheers guys.

(Chris - It could have gone either way re classification but just to recover and come out unscathed was the main thing. Joy oh joy!)

Nice effort to you too Will!

Hope everyone graduating has a good one and may all your YYFY's continue with climbing!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 05, 2011, 03:40:23 pm
People who get firsts have got the life/study balance wrong anyway :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 05, 2011, 04:01:15 pm
I got one in my first degree but you're quite right (at least with architecture where you need to extract your soul entirely to come out much the same employment prospect wise as those with 2.1).

Big big effort to Will. The boy knows SCIENCE!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 05, 2011, 04:06:25 pm
Seriously too, UKB has been something of an unbreakable crutch these past few months. If faith can be invested in an electronic medium, I'll start the cult. Really, thanks for listening to constant whinging and sorry for listening to constant whinging. Props to every last one of you good people.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 05, 2011, 07:32:10 pm
mate if what had happened to you happened to me I would do more than moan; I would have cried every past drop of water out of my body.

Now go forth, crank drink, live!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 06, 2011, 10:57:15 am
Thanks Tom. Huge props to you. If you've any free time at the moment then this thread might be of interest...
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18143.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18143.0.html)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on July 07, 2011, 12:25:21 am
No degree for me yet, (though they havent kicked me out this year) but did manage to get nerve ending today, after playing on it last year, got it 2+1/2 attempts. First 7 at kilnsey, and first 7b in UK. And, a few days ago held the swing on the keel... its only a matter of time!
Got kicked back down by ground effect and fifty for 5, but ho hum. keen for rematch!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on July 10, 2011, 01:08:07 am
 Finally managed Underhand at the 'Cliff yesterday,after a serious siege,with attempts into triple figures...what a punter! Nevertheless,YES YES FUCKING YES!!!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 12, 2011, 08:51:36 am
Nice one Caleb.  Good comeback   8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on July 12, 2011, 05:34:08 pm
 Cheers Gareth. Probably not the best problem for a man with a dicky right hip,but a very satisfying send! And almost a year since my accident too,so an anniversary ascent of sorts.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on July 17, 2011, 03:32:08 am
first v9 climbed today! + found a really good undeveloped area  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on July 17, 2011, 02:00:13 pm
nice one ducko, look forward to seeing the area when you get it finished, which v9?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on July 17, 2011, 02:02:52 pm
clever cleaver SS (not a pure v9 i know) RA is close thou! as for the area ive go a few lines too tick off then  ill be putting up photos and directons  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on July 17, 2011, 02:10:34 pm
V8+ in old Panton money, good 7b+  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on July 17, 2011, 02:16:41 pm
note too self: must try harder  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 18, 2011, 03:03:44 pm
The dangers of V grades!  :P


Good effort anyway ducko.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: biscuit on July 20, 2011, 09:20:49 am
Got my first 7A+ last night, Strong Arete at Eskdale.

Proper exciting. Mad busy at home packing to emigrate. Snatched a couple of hours out. Delayed by sheep stuck up to it's armpits in a cattle grid meaning it was all very rushed. My last chance to get it before we go. Looked like rain all day but cool breeze in our valley meant i was nervous all day about whether i'd get out or not. No wind there and i was sweating on the 5 min walk in. Bit greasy ( not good for granite ) and started to drizzle just as i finally nailed the bugger after sorting my sequence out. Phew !

Definitely the best problem i've done - my previous favourite was Hueco Crack - really 'strong' but not thuggy. You've got to get your feet and timing just right or you're off. Controlled power. Lovely.

Just Hueco Crack ( Cave Start ) and Picnic Sarcastic to do before i go. I have 3 possible climbing days left, one being tomorrow. I am guessing that's out with the weather so fingers crossed for next Mon + Tue.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on July 23, 2011, 08:02:24 pm
me and pillbox made friends today,after never being able too climb a line there went today and climbed 4 so dwin bywyn yr hapus!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 24, 2011, 04:51:12 pm
A bit of a YYFY being a non runner!

Done the Morecambe Bay half Marathon today (Cross Bay Challenge) and survived!!  Even better was a time of 1:59:30 which I was very pleased with.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on July 24, 2011, 07:09:36 pm
A similar YYFY for me. Yesterday did my first (super sprint) triathlon. I cycle around a lot, but never particularly far, and haven't run or swam much for years. Also the cycle was on grass and I'm a roadie. It was 400m swim, 10k bike and 2.5k run.

Anyway, did some training over the past few weeks and managed to finish 12th overall out of 163, and 5th in senior mens with a time of 36:31. Really suprised, was expecting to be somewhere mid table. Chuffed  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 24, 2011, 09:45:07 pm
Saturday morning I redpointed my frist 6b+ I then folloed up with my first 6b+ onsight saturday afternoon.
Today I climbed for the first time in the pass and climbed my first HVS multipitch

YYFY awesome weekend!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 25, 2011, 09:04:02 am
Even better was a time of 1:59:30 which I was very pleased with.

Although the official chip time is 68 seconds slower than my stopwatch!!  Arse- still very pleased, but sub 2 hours would have been good.  Just have to enter again next year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 25, 2011, 12:14:18 pm
Even better was a time of 1:59:30 which I was very pleased with.

Although the official chip time is 68 seconds slower than my stopwatch!!  Arse- still very pleased, but sub 2 hours would have been good.  Just have to enter again next year.

Another semi-YYFY, just found out the chip time includes the time it takes to get to the start line from the off, so it was sub 2 hours.  Woot.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on July 25, 2011, 12:15:38 pm
Even better was a time of 1:59:30 which I was very pleased with.

Although the official chip time is 68 seconds slower than my stopwatch!!  Arse- still very pleased, but sub 2 hours would have been good.  Just have to enter again next year.

Another semi-YYFY, just found out the chip time includes the time it takes to get to the start line from the off, so it was sub 2 hours.  Woot.


:lol: Well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 25, 2011, 12:49:22 pm
A big yyfy not climbing related for me. Big Splash out on a Gibby Les Paul Trad in Iced Tea Burst with 57 pickups and tradition mohog body. Work of art. Thunderous sustain & plays like a dream.

Harking back to this, the better half has bought me an Ibanez JS 100 signature in black for my birthday.  Fabulous.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on July 25, 2011, 01:15:11 pm
Even better was a time of 1:59:30 which I was very pleased with.

Although the official chip time is 68 seconds slower than my stopwatch!!  Arse- still very pleased, but sub 2 hours would have been good.  Just have to enter again next year.

Another semi-YYFY, just found out the chip time includes the time it takes to get to the start line from the off, so it was sub 2 hours.  Woot.

Well done on the time, know the effort you have to put in to go under 2 hours for a half marathon.

The timing's a funny way to do it - all the chip-timed races I've done (GNR / Abbey Dash) have had a mat at the start/finish that I'm assuming trigger the timing.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on July 25, 2011, 09:39:57 pm
Another semi-YYFY, just found out the chip time includes the time it takes to get to the start line from the off, so it was sub 2 hours.  Woot.
[/quote]

good effort gcw i did my first half a few months back and just getting round is an achievement. im doing another in october and plan to go sub 1.40which should just about kill me off. at least the training is making me lose weight for climbing
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 26, 2011, 08:20:28 am
im doing another in october and plan to go sub 1.40which should just about kill me off. at least the training is making me lose weight for climbing

If you're doing half marathons, you should definitely do this one.  Just look at all the happy faces here (http://www.crossbay.org.uk/galleries/photos-cross-bay).  Amazing experience.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on July 27, 2011, 09:18:53 am
Sent Bullet; 3rd 8a+, having not climbed 8a+ before May this year.  A great route with an amazing finish up on the roof; psyched  :)
It seems rest days make you stronger after all :coffee:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: stvey1987 on July 31, 2011, 08:19:16 pm
Sent weedkiller traverse at raven tor today !! Felt very satisfying as 1) its the first at the grade, for me, whether its 7a+ or 7b and 2) it was my 5th session on it !! (never spent anywhere near that long trying anything before) and 3)....i think its a quality problem  ;D

This is my first post on the forums (although I have been a member for a while now). Thought this was a good post to start off with ! Going to try and stop being a dirty voyeur and get involved a bit from now on!

Steve
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jimmykay on July 31, 2011, 09:10:22 pm
Yes Steve! You beast! You have to campus it next! :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on August 06, 2011, 03:46:09 pm
Had an awesome ecology/scuba diving-based field trip in Honduras.

First week hung out in the jungle doing herp-walks and habitat surveys, whilst avoiding getting the shits like most of the rest of the party (One guy had 34 in 24 hours! :o ). Unfortunately didn't get to see any Tapirs, but did see howler monkeys, toucans and humming birds  ;D

In terms of diving I was very apprehensive; as earlier snorkelling experiences ended in choking and being upset & cold. I didn't choke, or die and had a wonderful time frolicking around looking at parrotfish and other wonderful marine life in warm clear water. So psyched.

I also randomly gained the ability to do one armers off crimps and hold front levers. :strongbench:

Probably the best two weeks of my life. Now I need some rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 07, 2011, 07:02:07 pm
Operation Wallacea?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 07, 2011, 08:42:01 pm
Just landed my first ever 'proper' job divided between Wirral and Manchester. MOTHERFUCKING BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM! Psyched beyond all belief.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 07, 2011, 09:05:37 pm
Just landed my first ever 'proper' job divided between Wirral and Manchester. MOTHERFUCKING BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM! Psyched beyond all belief.

 :2thumbsup: Effort! You deserve it after the year you've had!

As an aside - do you mention the data loss fiasco in inteviews? I could see it being taken well - "Bloody hell, you lost it all and still got it done in 2 days, good effort" or badly - "Why did you not back it up"...

Anyway, once again - good work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on August 07, 2011, 09:10:21 pm
Yes Tom! May your current good karma last well in to the future, you deserve it!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on August 08, 2011, 01:56:31 am
spanked a heard of racoons with a 5.5ft bamboo trunk, boom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 08, 2011, 05:47:44 am
all fucking right brother. well done and well deserved.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 08, 2011, 10:17:19 am
Cheers chaps! Really pleased that perseverance has paid off. Just desperately been craving a means to facilitate climbing activity.

Fultonius - Only when I was asked about the minutiae  of the course did I mention it. Happy to leave that saga behind!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on August 08, 2011, 11:19:14 am
Operation Wallacea?

You know it  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 08, 2011, 11:35:18 am
Congrats on the new job Mono  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2011, 11:48:30 am
Just desperately been craving a means to facilitate climbing activity.

Now you enter the phase where you have the money to facilitate it, but zero free time for climbing.

Good work fella.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on August 08, 2011, 06:49:20 pm
Congratulations Tom.   :2thumbsup:  Welcome to full time employment. Now you too can sit and read posts asking for lifts and  how awesome conditions are on the grit or at the cave during the week only for it to piss it down every Saturday and Sunday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 08, 2011, 08:41:55 pm
Fantastic and much deserved news Tom, congratulations.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 08, 2011, 08:58:38 pm
Congratulations Tom.   :2thumbsup:  Welcome to full time employment. Now you too can sit and read posts asking for lifts and  how awesome conditions are on the grit or at the cave during the week only for it to piss it down every Saturday and Sunday.
:lol:

Too true beast, too true! Got out today and trashed my hand but at least that gives me another temporary excuse to remain a weak punter.

Thanks to you gents for all your support leading upto this, really.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on September 03, 2011, 05:17:00 pm
Today hase been a good day for me, a good day indeed!
I sent 'Paint It Black' My first limestone 7C boulder problem.
Not only this but it was a big aim for me this year to boulder 7C on grit, 7C on lime and to lead a 7c sport route... All of which I have now done... YES YES, FUCKING YEEEEEESSSSS  :w00t:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 03, 2011, 05:23:32 pm
Good effort! Where is Paint it Black? My peak knowledge is inferior these days? Is it in the new guide?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on September 03, 2011, 05:32:19 pm
Yes its in the new guide, Blackwell dale. If your in the area and fancy a boulder deffo check it out
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 03, 2011, 05:36:34 pm
I must purchase it, will be over at some point
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on September 10, 2011, 08:13:07 pm
Finally did an 8 outside the Dales  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on September 10, 2011, 08:33:01 pm
Finally did an 8 outside the Dales  :dance1:

Welsh tart
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on September 10, 2011, 08:53:37 pm
Finally did an 8 outside the Dales  :dance1:

Welsh tart

Easy to pick up  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on September 11, 2011, 06:43:22 pm
Wayhay..... three months after my first, faltering moves there, I've finally bagged the "to the wobble block" link at Crag-Y-Longridge (supposedly equivalent to a F7c+).  More sideways badness than a bushel of evil crabs!

Considering that it's a link-up traverse at a "singular" crag, I'm absurdly pleased with myself.  Before going to CYL, I'd pretty much only bouldered - just onsight trad and occassional bolt-clipping abroad - so I'd never managed anything with a route grade of more than F7a+/b.  Okay, success at CYL likely has dubious applicability elsewhere, but it at least suggests that I've more stamina than I thought and, should the opportunity present itself, could at least consider trying to RP something in the mid 7s without humiliation. 

... think I'll break out both a cake AND a bottle of nice beer!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on September 11, 2011, 07:37:08 pm
went climbing today for the first time since I detached my bicep at the end of Feb. Few 5's an 5+'s down the wall with a couple of easy boulder/traverse problems thrown in for good measure. YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on September 11, 2011, 08:41:42 pm
Nice one Jim, glad to hear you're on the mend.  Cave next week then?   ;)  Luke.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: al123 on September 11, 2011, 08:47:14 pm
managed to do 3 7a's today!! brings the tally up to about 6 i think. did green traverse, trackside ( done lots before) and The Nose. time spent at Carreg Hylldrem as paid off!  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 11, 2011, 08:56:05 pm
glad to hear that Jim!!!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AJM on September 11, 2011, 09:29:30 pm
Finally did an 8 outside the Dales  :dance1:

Nice  :)

And I like the :dance1: so much I'm going to hijack it for my own YYFY which is ticking my first 7c on Friday  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on September 12, 2011, 01:47:26 am
YYFY Finally managed to bag my first 7A last night at the frontlines. My thanks to James for spotting and providing the encouragement.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 12, 2011, 06:28:31 pm
YYFY I managed to do 4 moves in a row (4 commissions I mean) on the system wall!!! so happy.
plus, I've finished drilling the panels.
plus, the holds, t-nuts, bolts and screws will arrive tomorrow.
plus, all my supplements will arrive Wednesday.
plus, yesterday I crushed on rock.
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 12, 2011, 07:17:46 pm
glad to hear that Jim!!!  :strongbench:

+1
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 17, 2011, 05:39:57 pm
the board is completed, and I am pulling on it right fucking now.
I am psyched out of my little, puerile, dire, naive mind.
it seems unreal.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on September 17, 2011, 09:06:18 pm
go Beast!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on September 19, 2011, 01:33:56 pm
Got my long term, niggling in the back of my mind, boulder/micro project done on Friday, a couple of minutes before the rain set in for the winter.
proper content.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 06, 2011, 01:42:49 pm
Fucked my wrist up about 3 weeks ago and haven't climbed / trained since. Was a right bastard as I'd just got the psyche back after a few months of inactivity and was about to dive into trying to get some power back.

Anyway, finally went to the walk in clinic at the Hallamshire yesterday as it is still niggling and not seeming to get any better. A quick check up and a couple of xrays later and they pronounced it probably ligament damage, certainly no cracks anywhere and that provided it doesn't make it worse I can pull on it.

Seeing as pulling straight down is one of the things that doesn't hurt at all, I can get back on the beastmaker without worrying that I'm doing more damage. YYFY!

Oh and I've just booked to stay at Maisonbleau with the whole Sharpe / Starfish family for next year. YYFY! (Nice one Neil).

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 06, 2011, 01:48:24 pm
Don't try to dampen my spirits!  :chair:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2011, 02:00:19 pm
Sounds good Jas. Just avoid going away somewhere where you need to do any hard mantels on that wrist.

D'oh!

Hoping to get to le Maison (or font at least) en famile next year as well. It's been too damn long!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 06, 2011, 02:12:11 pm
Sounds good Jas. Just avoid going away somewhere where you need to do any hard mantels on that wrist.

I've got about seven months for it to get better to get loads of other injuries before then.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on October 15, 2011, 12:42:38 am
A week apart but two YYFY's for me - managed to get Huggy done on the Burbage boulders last week but even better I finally ticked the Armoured Car Traverse today! No idea on the grade (going from L->R) but pleased just to get it sent after dropping it so many times over the last two or three years.  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 16, 2011, 09:59:10 pm
think i have just had the best weekend ever. on saturday i won 500 quid and today i belayed my mate to his first f8a and then i managed to jump up four grades and do a f7a+.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 16, 2011, 10:21:54 pm
Lend me £100 and continue your good streak by helping a stranger ;-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Milford Cubicle on October 20, 2011, 10:28:04 am
sent RA - first 7C  :strongbench:

went to brad pitt full of psyche, left with more psyche hahah!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 23, 2011, 04:20:20 pm
non climbing related but did stroud half today in 1hr 40 mins 39 secs so well pleased with that having only got three serious weeks of training in.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wipey Why on October 24, 2011, 09:08:46 am
I finally did my first 7b, Captain Hook. About bloody time too!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 24, 2011, 09:26:34 am
I finally did my first 7b, Captain Hook. About bloody time too!

Good effort ypy :)

Looks like all that dfbwgc training helped..  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on October 24, 2011, 09:35:44 am
Does it involve repetitive right hand slapping?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 24, 2011, 09:51:40 am
Sounds good Jas. Just avoid going away somewhere where you need to do any hard mantels on that wrist.

I've got about seven months for it to get better to get loads of other injuries before then.

My big mouth. In agony with sprained shoulder joint. Fortunately it is just ligament damage etc as I thought I might have broken it so NNFN but YYFY. #thinkpositive
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wipey Why on October 24, 2011, 09:57:52 am
Does it involve repetitive right hand slapping?

It has got a few slaps of the left hand.

Generally don't like using the left hand. Can't get the rhythm quite right.  :wank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 25, 2011, 12:39:51 pm
Bit of a YYFY and a NNFN in one post...

YYFY - had an awesome week in El Chorro with some psyched peeps. Managed to (quite surprisingly) hit my target of F7b onsight (Fran Sinatra at Desplomilandia) and also quickyl ticked a really cool F7c at Tringulo Crag, also in Desplomilandia (Madre Salveje). Quite psyched for improving my onsighting and quick redpointing skills for next season.  :dance1:

NNFN - last night in El Chorro, a few beers to the worse I thought it'd be a great time to do some slacklining above the pool.

 :badidea:
Beer & 15m slackline = Twisted knee :-(  seems to have lossened up a bit today, but still hard to tell if I've done any permanent damage.   :slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 25, 2011, 12:49:28 pm
Don't have much luck with knees, do you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 25, 2011, 12:59:44 pm
It's the same knee. It's always going to be a bit at risk. It's one of those annoying things that it's been feeling *really* solid for about 6 months, so I rarely even consider it to be any worse than the other one. The main problem is that it still doesn't fully bend, so if you accidentally and forceably bend it, then it doesn't react too well...

I probably should take it a bit easier...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 25, 2011, 01:20:33 pm
I probably should take it a bit easier...

Maybe when drinking!!  Alcohol does nothing for proprioception!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 25, 2011, 01:28:20 pm
 :alky: :oops: :-[

Word.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 30, 2011, 10:42:46 pm
Ticked one my goals for the year. First 7C - keel. YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on October 31, 2011, 10:55:53 am
Nice one Huwbert! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i_a_coops on November 01, 2011, 11:00:01 am
Went to Almscliff for the first time yesterday with a ridiculous number of excuses for being shit (3rd day on, bruised back, thin skin), came up with a totally insane sequence on The Keel involving fingertape on my right foot, then sprained my bad ankle in the footlock, then went through a fingertip. Even after that, the thought of having to repeat the 3 hour drive to Yorkshire somehow got me through the moves on my millionth attempt as the sun was going down and I hung dangling from the pocket. I was so surprised that I then fell off while trying to readjust.

Then I did it again, but dabbed.

Then I did it properly, and topped out.

Finally feel like all the pullups and levers  with a plaster cast on my foot have helped my climb something! YYFY...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 01, 2011, 11:50:09 am
nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on November 01, 2011, 04:37:39 pm
Had the best climbing trip ever. Went to the Lake district and spent a session on the bowder stone which is amazing. I ticked a 7a+ in less than 10 attempts which is pretty damn good for me considering ive only climbed one 7b and I usually measure how long it takes me to tick something in weeks. Then on the way back down went to Raven Tor and ticked off a 6c I couldnt get close to earlier in the year without to much trouble.  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 03, 2011, 04:50:49 pm
these are some of the most important 15 seconds of my life. may they become minutes.
45 DEGREES (http://vimeo.com/31552682)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on November 05, 2011, 04:30:51 am
Got rock atrocity done today like a majestic ho' she spread her coarse legs and let me access her sacred slot
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: will_s87 on November 05, 2011, 10:11:23 am
in the past few weeks have sent ; RA, Lou F, Broken Heart. and a bunch of other easier things in wales! :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on November 05, 2011, 11:44:07 am
I no longer have to crawl into the back right corner of the cave!  :beer2:

Was a good humid day for sending in there with Laura crushing Bust Lip and then ducko walking up RA  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on November 06, 2011, 08:52:02 pm
I don’t often scream or shout when im climbing, but I did today, I shouted as loud as I possibly could as I topped out West Side Story, because it had taken me just 4 or 5 sets of attempts in that single afternoon session. Tonight I am a very happy lad  :) YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on November 06, 2011, 11:17:26 pm
Had a big YYFY today shortly followed by a massive NNFN.

Got on a 7c at cheddar (seven months later) which I'd had a play on one day earlier in the year, one go putting the draws in and getting the moves sussed then fired it next go, huge YYFY. First 7c, following first 7b+ only a couple of weeks ago. Was this years goal and went down a lot quicker than anticipated  :)

Had cycled down to get a lift with friends earlier in the day, got back to Bristol and my bike had been stolen  :( Securely locked up in the middle of a busy Clifton on a sunny Sunday afternoon.

So, not likely I know, but if you live in Bristol and you see a second hand Specialized Allez Triple (2005) (XL, silver frame, carbon forks, red/black tyres) for sale/on ebay/etc. please let me know...

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wil on November 12, 2011, 09:17:43 pm
Ticked my first 7c today! Not something I thought would be happening when sat in hospital bed with a smashed up face in March. I had some pretty shameful redpoint nerves and duff beta but it all came together in the end.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on November 14, 2011, 08:31:38 am
Ticked my first 7c today! Not something I thought would be happening when sat in hospital bed with a smashed up face in March. I had some pretty shameful redpoint nerves and duff beta but it all came together in the end.

Wil - you're not the guy who injured himself falling off soloing at Froggatt back in March are you?

If so, I was one of the people who was there that day, good effort making such a speedy recovery / return to climbing form!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wil on November 14, 2011, 11:26:58 am
Wil - you're not the guy who injured himself falling off soloing at Froggatt back in March are you?

That's me... amazingly I got away with broken eye socket, cheek and nose and a sprained wrist. I have a couple of screws holding bits in place now, but no lasting damage, more than a bit lucky.

I'm afraid I don't remember you, for obvious reasons... but thanks if you were involved in sorting me out!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on November 14, 2011, 06:16:09 pm
Wil - you're not the guy who injured himself falling off soloing at Froggatt back in March are you?

That's me... amazingly I got away with broken eye socket, cheek and nose and a sprained wrist. I have a couple of screws holding bits in place now, but no lasting damage, more than a bit lucky.

I'm afraid I don't remember you, for obvious reasons... but thanks if you were involved in sorting me out!

Aye, I was one of the first on the scene - had a fairly rapid run down / breathless run back up the hill to The Chequers to meet the paramedic!

Glad to hear you've made a recovery and that it wasn't as nasty as it looked on the day.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on November 17, 2011, 05:21:41 pm
Did West Side Story at Burbage today in a session  ;D

If you were in the valley you probably heard...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on November 17, 2011, 05:51:33 pm
Montgroni Free Fr6b+ onsight at los cotos today YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on November 17, 2011, 08:21:02 pm
Did West Side Story at Burbage today in a session  ;D

If you were in the valley you probably heard...

good effort! Breaking the law like the priest, It's supposed to give you grief over a large portion of your life, thems the rules
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 17, 2011, 08:33:28 pm
Montgroni Free Fr6b+ onsight at los cotos today YYFY
Nice one Grubes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on November 17, 2011, 09:24:47 pm

supposed to give you grief over a large portion of your life

I had thought it might, i'll go back and spend a few sessions falling off the top out to compensate for this disobedience  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on November 23, 2011, 06:08:40 pm
Been a while since I've had anything to celebrate, but finally suceeded on The Terrace this afternoon. It's taken a few sessions. Proper YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 23, 2011, 07:26:22 pm
nice one. windy at burbage north wasn't it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on November 23, 2011, 08:00:35 pm
It was windiest at the carpark fortunately. Terrace was pretty sheltered. Were you guys on WSS later on? Hope you didn't hear my screams.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 23, 2011, 08:06:06 pm
yes & no
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 24, 2011, 11:15:25 am
Did you hear our horn?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on November 25, 2011, 12:26:22 pm
Got a promotion in work and the very real prospect to a move to a converted mews in the city with tons of room for a board. FUCKING YES!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 25, 2011, 12:38:54 pm
You're on a roll this year, after your near disaster with your coursework!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on November 25, 2011, 12:46:27 pm
On wednesday I had my PhD viva and passed after a bit of a grilling. I think it is more of a RRFR as in relief, relief, fucking relief!!!

 :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on November 25, 2011, 02:05:01 pm
On wednesday I had my PhD viva and passed after a bit of a grilling. I think it is more of a RRFR as in relief, relief, fucking relief!!!

 :)

Nice one.   :clap2:

Hopefully I will be writing a similar post on here next year  :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 25, 2011, 02:49:29 pm
On wednesday I had my PhD viva and passed after a bit of a grilling. I think it is more of a RRFR as in relief, relief, fucking relief!!!

 :)

See, it was worth missing that festival! Great effort Jamie, time to get all those bank cards changed now.

In another (rather smaller) academic YYFY I got promoted last week and am now allowed to read stuff.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on November 26, 2011, 08:03:17 pm
In another (rather smaller) academic YYFY I got promoted last week and am now allowed to read stuff.

Congratulations Andy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on November 26, 2011, 09:20:19 pm
Cheers guys,

Still feel like a fraud calling myself Doctor, but i'm sure it will help when trying to get the bank to give extra money. Maybe not!

(Dr.) Jamie  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 27, 2011, 01:45:20 pm
I got promoted last week and am now allowed to read stuff.

All you need to do now is learn to read :)

Good work  all round.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 27, 2011, 02:41:02 pm
Yes, I was going to say...

I'm allowed to read too.

But only the Beano (and Vis if I'm good).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 27, 2011, 06:47:53 pm
five weeks off games.... had CT of hand.. no break.. still needing RICE therapy.. tender to say the least.

F8ck it, got the bike out... spikes on... slither time... great day - I was shit, but i was out - I felt epic!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 27, 2011, 07:17:26 pm
Not climbed much recently but still managed two new 7s at Froggatt today. Then found an awesome place for Sunday roast on our doorstep where the kids were on best behaviour. Oh yeah and I (jointly) won at poker last night.  :2thumbsup:
Pretty good weekend I'd say.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on November 27, 2011, 07:42:10 pm
Oh yeah and I (jointly) won at poker last night.  :2thumbsup:

You're taking that as a win!? I was well ahead.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 27, 2011, 07:54:34 pm
Oh yeah and I (jointly) won at poker last night.  :2thumbsup:

You're taking that as a win! I was well ahead.
Notice I said jointly, anyway I recon it was pretty even, my stacks were bigger than yours. :tease:
have to have another round soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on November 27, 2011, 07:59:22 pm
I recon it was pretty even, my stacks were bigger than yours. :tease:

Not a chance. I was keeping close tabs on those stacks. I just worked out that a taxi home would cost more than I stood to gain by destroying you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 27, 2011, 08:12:27 pm
I recon it was pretty even, my stacks were bigger than yours. :tease:  :whip:

Not a chance. I was keeping close tabs on those stacks. I just worked out that a taxi home would cost more than I stood to gain by destroying you.
A likely story, I saw that fear in your eyes, you saw your chance of an easy exit and took it, I was just warming up. Next time, next time...  :whip:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on November 27, 2011, 08:16:18 pm
I was just warming up. Next time, next time...  :whip:

If your warm up involves losing that many hands, I fancy my chances.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on November 27, 2011, 08:32:04 pm
I was just warming up. Next time, next time...  :whip:

If your warm up involves losing that many hands, I fancy my chances.
Stop trying to spoil my YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy B on November 27, 2011, 09:04:22 pm
 :lol:Well, done on the 7's, and the parenting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on November 28, 2011, 10:22:47 pm
Did deliverance after two years of trying  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 29, 2011, 07:03:45 am
yesterday i got an email from the editor, I'm doing the Italian translation of troll wall! yyfy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 29, 2011, 07:13:14 am
yesterday i got an email from the editor, I'm doing the Italian translation of troll wall! yyfy.
Karma! Go for it L. Give it a bit of that latin flavour!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 01, 2011, 06:52:25 pm
finally today I managed to taste the flavour of a Moonboard!!!
nasty!!!
had great fun though, and the best thing is that I pulled and trained and although my fingers are useless now, nothing aches!!!
way to go!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on December 01, 2011, 10:37:29 pm
Ive been following my own periodised training programme since the first of September, and last week I took my first proper rest week. That meant no pulling of any kind, no fingerboard, only two core sessions (Tue & Thur) it was the most boring week of the year, I didnt know what to do with myself but on the upside my house has never been so clean!

Well This week ive been back into the training, Core Monday, Campus session Tue, fingerboard max hangs Wed, and tonight was 45deg session and weights.
After warming up I climbed the first hard prob on the 45 first go (no big deal) then went onto climb the prob everyone there loves to hate... I crushed it first go! Ive been trying this prob on and off for at least 3years and had only done it once before tonight! Obviously I was feeling strong so I rested for 5 mins and brushed the holds on my new big project. After the rest I pulled on and had a couple of realy good goes, another 5 min rest and then pulled on again but this time I found myself eying up the last hold... I popped for it, tagged it but didnt hold it Nooo!
Finished off with the weights sesh which went better than expected also :o)

Rest weeks really do work...YYFY :oD
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 05, 2011, 10:31:18 pm
Nice work on the crushing and clean house Eddies.

My YYFYs are lamer than most people's on here so I've saved them up for a compilation.

In October I went to Antalya, climbed 11 days out of 12 and went from scraping my way up 6bs to flashing 6c and feeling like I could do harder.  :dance1:

I've always been bad at dynos to the point of never having actually managed one, even indoors. For the last few weeks I've been making myself do really  easy ones just to force myself to let my feet come off. Yesterday I was working a problem with a bunch of climbers and I was the only one doing a crucial move as a dyno (didn't drop it once) while everyone else thrashed themselves making it static. It felt surreal as I've always been in the latter group.

Viewing videos from Turkey made me realise my posture is shocking so I've been getting into antagonistics to fix it. Turns out my weak shoulders were a big issue and I'm climbing much steadier due to working on them (this may also be why dynos are suddenly feasible). Today I found I can do one-arm pushups. I feel like Rocky.  :weakbench:

YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 08, 2011, 05:52:28 pm
After 5 years of parental nagging I have now passed the old driving test. BOOM!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 11, 2011, 09:34:44 am
YYFY.
took February off. yes, like February, the month.
climb your projects.
lock your doors.
empty your fridges.
hide your girlfriends.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on December 11, 2011, 09:59:22 am
get yourself over brother. probably going to do a northumberland trip in feb
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: clm on December 11, 2011, 09:21:06 pm
get yourself over brother. probably going to do a northumberland trip in feb
Half term please.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 11, 2011, 10:35:44 pm
After 5 years of parental nagging I have now passed the old driving test. BOOM!

Nice one. Quite useful for climbing too I find! The annoying thing about aprents is that they usually turn out to have been right all along.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on December 12, 2011, 12:21:37 pm
After cancelling my trip to swizzy about 2 weeks ago due to a ridiculous heel injury sustained while playing rugby (Bruised nerve meant I couldnt put on my right climbing shoe without  :'( for over a month) I tried on my new miuras a week ago and found that I was able to climb sans pain!

We quickly replanned the swizzy trip in about 3 days and I am now sitting in the house on a well planned (wet) rest day after 2 quality (dry) days out on the rock.

After a 14 hour through the night drive I managed to climb:

Sloper Attack (6c+/7a)

And yesterday (despite suffering from my first real man flu) I climbed:

Matusalem (6c+)
Batterie in Esuarimento (7a+)
and
Tomahawk (7b)

Manflu clearing up - climbing going well - need cool problems to send.

Prior to yesterday I had only climbed a few problems over 7a and they included a bunch that I felt were overgraded down on portland and a bunch of slab dynos
So basically - I'm quite happy.

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on December 12, 2011, 05:10:42 pm
nice one. matusalem always looked immense on videos.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on December 12, 2011, 05:13:01 pm
Just beat Ondra to the first 8c flash, The Big Island - get in! YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 12, 2011, 05:37:06 pm
Just beat Ondra to the first 8c flash, The Big Island - get in! YYFY
So just checked the blog...
??
I believe this requires more explanation, Sir!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 13, 2011, 02:13:36 pm
Finally did T Crack 5 years after first trying it :) What a relief!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on December 22, 2011, 05:58:34 pm
fantastic day at the plantation today. Help the Young got done today, such a brilliant problem, maybe the best ive done  :)
DELIVERANCE DONE!!! got it 2nd go today after first trying 6 or so months ago. fantastic
and a "first go today" send of Glass Hour. something which i had been struggling on for a while
great day  ;D ;D

EDIT: look what a hour at the Tor does to you eh!  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on December 22, 2011, 07:08:22 pm
fantastic day at the plantation today. Help the Young got done today, such a brilliant problem, maybe the best ive done  :)
DELIVERANCE DONE!!! got it 2nd go today after first trying 6 or so months ago. fantastic
and a "first go today" send of Glass Hour. something which i had been struggling on for a while
great day  ;D ;D

EDIT: look what a hour at the Tor does to you eh!  ;)

nice one emlyn you looked super close last time. now you just need to do it the "proper" way  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on December 22, 2011, 07:35:10 pm
aha cheers. did you get it done the "proper" way?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on December 22, 2011, 07:43:46 pm
aha cheers. did you get it done the "proper" way?

yeh, the easier way for me definitely, I haven't got the spring.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: daprince on December 23, 2011, 08:26:16 am
Finally puntered my way up the Pommel On Sunday. Can now take the family somewhere else on days out and save on parking.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 29, 2011, 02:13:09 pm
I am very happy as of late because Michele Caminati, while working his mega project here, found the time to repeat two of my problems. one in particular I am still very proud of, and he gave it three stars on 8a.nu, commenting "steep and powerful"!!!
this one goes to my "friends" who keep telling around I have not enough experience and references to correctly grade problems.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 29, 2011, 03:40:17 pm
Sounds you have the experience to award worthy stars  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on January 09, 2012, 01:59:42 pm
Fuck Yeah!!!   

Off to the Alps until the end of the season!!!!  Chamonix here I come.  :icon_beerchug:

Back story:

Joined a new department in my company that was looking into designing/manufacturing offshore wind turbines. 2 months later the powers that be decided it was going to be an unwise investment. Ergo, no job. Well, not redundancy, be re-allocation.

I suggested a career break. Finally, 3 weeks later (over xmas) they said yes!

So, start of next week I should be packing up my car and heading to the alps. Yes..yes...fucking...yes!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on January 09, 2012, 04:10:13 pm
So much for getting strong on the beastmaker  :tease:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on January 09, 2012, 04:23:02 pm
It's coming with me!   :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on January 12, 2012, 08:32:29 am
Just received notification that I have a place in a group coaching session with Toni Lamprecht   :bow: at one of the loacl walls on the 25th.

He doesn't do these very often and it's limited places, first come, first served. Didn't get a place last time he did one, but this time I was quick enough on the "sign up" button.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Zods Beard on January 12, 2012, 06:18:57 pm
I haven't had reason to post on here in a long time but today managed to send Zippys today at a deserted, beautiful Stanage.

2nd 7b, 1st on grit. Cheers to the guys on Sunday for between drizzle beta.

YES, YES, FUCKING YES.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 12, 2012, 10:52:37 pm
very minor, just did 3 of my old warm ups  / training points on me board, after 4 weeks training - and me A2s are intact....

so.... I could actually get a bit better, before Font in 12 weeks.

YYFY, "fatdoc 7a in font" is perhaps on the way...


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 13, 2012, 01:09:50 am
Just received notification that I have a place in a group coaching session with Toni Lamprecht   :bow: at one of the loacl walls on the 25th.

You should ask him for some cooking tips, I've never seen someone eat so much when camping. Cream, cheese, nuts, pasta, all piled in a huge pan.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 13, 2012, 07:22:28 am
I haven't had reason to post on here in a long time but today managed to send Zippys today at a deserted, beautiful Stanage.

2nd 7b, 1st on grit. Cheers to the guys on Sunday for between drizzle beta.

YES, YES, FUCKING YES.
Who saw you? Where you there with Pedro at 4am after cycling there on your tandem etc...?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Topher on January 13, 2012, 08:18:53 pm
YYFY Did The Green Traverse today. My first 7a, on a perfect days at Stanage  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on January 14, 2012, 07:12:06 pm
Did my first E8 End of the Affair today on an amazingly beautiful day  ;D been a target for a few years since i started climbing and today is a real milestone for me. YYFY.

 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 17, 2012, 11:01:08 am
Managed to maintain my average of one winter route a year by getting up to Lochnagar on Saturday. Perfect weather; cold but not baltic, cloudless and no wind. Sadly not much in nick after recent mild weather, but neve on route we did was perfect, apart from last 5 m up to and over cornice which had got the sun on it and was akin to climbing sorbet. Luckily I had roped up in anticipation. had a mate with us who had never climbed outdoors before, and we kept telling him it's not always like this! Going to be a disappointment every time after for him now. So nice I might even do another one this winter!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on January 21, 2012, 10:29:34 am
Thanks to the advice I got on the NNFN thread I got a letter this morning from Sheffield Hallam inviting me for an interview in March.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 21, 2012, 10:45:19 am
Thanks to the advice I got on the NNFN thread I got a letter this morning from Sheffield Hallam inviting me for an interview in March.

Excellent!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 21, 2012, 11:50:06 am
Thanks to the advice I got on the NNFN thread I got a letter this morning from Sheffield Hallam inviting me for an interview in March.

Nice one Seb :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on January 21, 2012, 12:13:21 pm
Thanks to the advice I got on the NNFN thread I got a letter this morning from Sheffield Hallam inviting me for an interview in March.

nice one seb, might see you there next year  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on January 21, 2012, 01:27:31 pm
Just sold our house! Only put it on in december. Better schools for kids, better area coming up - ended up with a bit of equity left too - obviously not enough for a deposit, but a years renting will give us enough time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on January 21, 2012, 02:42:24 pm
nice one seb, might see you there next year  :)

What course have you applied for? Im hoping to do physiotherapy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 21, 2012, 03:15:20 pm
Thanks to the advice I got on the NNFN thread I got a letter this morning from Sheffield Hallam inviting me for an interview in March.

I love UKB.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on January 21, 2012, 04:50:39 pm
 :agree: its not an exageration to say I definatley wouldnt have got this interview without the advice I got here.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 25, 2012, 10:24:22 pm
minor again... 6 weeks in... no A2 issues - for the first time in 4 years of startin a board training regime ...

after a warm up i did not fall on my 8 warm up / do easy problems....

first time... for a long time.. I can move on...

I'm cautious... and rather excited.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 26, 2012, 08:39:59 am
Nice one, just don't go mad now. Any training feels to me like building a house of cards these days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 27, 2012, 09:58:27 pm
I hear you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on January 29, 2012, 09:54:14 am
I won a climbing competition. This may never happen again.

Wou-hou !!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 30, 2012, 09:19:39 am
champ!!! how does it feel ? never happened to me!!!

anyway yesterday I got to the association's wall and the secretary told me: "Lorenzo, do you remember the courses you taught in November and December? I have to pay you 300 Euros for those."

fuck yea.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 30, 2012, 11:48:27 am
UK trip fund!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 30, 2012, 12:53:52 pm
:-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on January 30, 2012, 01:01:05 pm
I don't think it feels as good as free money!

But Nibile, this year is the year to do comps - first year in Veterans + careful selection of competition = glory.

I beat 3 other guys in the Languedoc- Roussillon regional championships. However, if I now go to the inter-regionals I will be up against the the PACA winner - some punter called François Legrand...

I'm now giving up comps again, I have a gold medal, a podium photo and my kids are proud of me. That'll do!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 30, 2012, 04:40:01 pm
what has ever done that Francois on plastic?
oh wait a minute...
 ;D
come on, keep going!!! you never know what could happen. imagine Legrand having the worst day of his career, and you the best. imagine problems set to all your strength and to all Legrand weaknesses (?????).
DREAM BIG.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 30, 2012, 05:45:35 pm
Psyche him out with a pair of brown y-fronts (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6470.msg124028.html#msg124028).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on January 30, 2012, 08:08:02 pm
Strangely enough, the inter-regionals are being held in Briançon... I wonder if he's still got the same pants?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cjsheps on January 31, 2012, 01:30:45 pm
At the start of this year, I had a little pipe dream to get me through exams of a long trip to Ceuse in the summer. With it being my dream crag, I thought it'd be a good source of motivation. In the mean time, I've somehow managed to convince my parents to let me go, my friend to come with me and his dad that this wasn't a bad idea at all. The culmination of which is that last night, I BOOKED THE FLIGHT! All that remains to do now is some  :strongbench: with plenty of  :rtfm:

With a good training program, some good old-fashioned hard work and some luck, this will be the greatest thing that's ever happened to me! Just proof that dreaming big's a good way to go!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 01, 2012, 10:54:27 am
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7015/6800633069_eaff5ed380.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/6800633069/)
neve (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/6800633069/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7015/6800632853_812a9266f1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/6800632853/)
neve 2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/6800632853/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

one foot of snow outside and counting.
I have a draw full of supplements, a fridge full of food and alcohol, a beastmaker and a 55° board.
I am on holiday.
I fear nothing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2012, 11:33:48 am
Do you ski or snowboard Nibile?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 01, 2012, 11:45:26 am
I used to ski, and I really loved it. last time I skied it's many years ago though: it's a very expensive practice here in Italy, and my knees aren't worth the expense!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 01, 2012, 12:08:11 pm
Fuck skiing. Eat, drink and train! You will surely crush your project once the enforced hibernation is over.

 :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 01, 2012, 01:57:41 pm
Fuck training. A powder day is always a good day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 01, 2012, 08:35:46 pm
Skiing is a great complement to climbing/training. Plus a lot more elusive than even the mintest conditions!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2012, 11:36:31 am
Had a mission up to Glen Nevis and managed to do my new project up there which had been bugging me for a while! Hurrah for Scottish winter conditions.

New problems in Glen Nevis! (http://vimeo.com/36048401)

2nd problem...featuring the gayest power-whimper ever.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 02, 2012, 11:44:51 am
Had a mission up to Glen Nevis and managed to do my new project up there which had been bugging me for a while! Hurrah for Scottish winter conditions.

New problems in Glen Nevis! (http://vimeo.com/36048401)

2nd problem...featuring the gayest power-whimper ever.

Nice Fiend. Looks like you have the makings of a good comeback from injury year.  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2012, 12:02:49 pm
new projects !

Some quality kick starting there!

What boulder are they on?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2012, 12:20:22 pm
They are all on the South Side, mostly on or around the Finch / Tim's Arete boulder. I'll get a topo soon. Great rock great landings etc etc.

P.S. Cheers Adam.....but 2010 was my comeback from injury. 2012 needs to be my comeback from fatness  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 02, 2012, 01:32:17 pm
P.S. More stuff in this one:

More new stuff in Glen Nevis. (http://vimeo.com/36072419)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on February 02, 2012, 03:06:21 pm
nice footwork !
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 04, 2012, 10:12:03 pm
I got back from the gym yesterday night only to find a surprise birthday party at home!!! Never had had one before!!! My friends gave me a gift card in a music shop and I went there today and got myself a Peavey Grind bass!!! Awesome!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 06, 2012, 03:20:54 am
Happy Birthday mate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 06, 2012, 08:03:26 am

P.S. Cheers Adam.....but 2010 was my comeback from injury. 2012 needs to be my comeback from fatness  ;)

For boulderers, fatness is a unique and debilitating form of injury!

Happy birthday nibs!

A mini Yyfy - i'm going to chamonix's bouldering wall today to climb for the first time since early january! Let the weakness commence!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 06, 2012, 09:35:28 am
Don't expect too much! Surely the ice most be in fantastic condition at the moment?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 06, 2012, 09:40:24 am
Oh and a YYFY for a fantastic day out winter climbing in Glen Clova on Friday. Did a combination of 2 routes, all on perfect ice, solid nevee and frozen turf (well a few patches of soft snow!). Due to a lateish start a lovely moonlit descent, and not a cloud or breath of wind all day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 06, 2012, 10:40:09 pm
I managed to break the spell of my terrible mood of the last few days today with my first BM session with 5 kilos on. 5 sets of 10 holds did the job.
Brilliant and well psyched!!!
Can also see some climbing at the horizon and another chance for a UK visit appeared!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nigel on February 06, 2012, 11:09:04 pm
Well what can I say! Men r better than women. Ie I love cock


[mod]Kids, this is why you should never leave yourself logged in on a shared computer. Some idiot who thinks being gay is something to be ashamed of may try to amusingly out you in public. Ho ho, how we all chortle![/mod]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 07, 2012, 09:23:58 am
Is that Hurley's first post on here? Or Smitton's?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 07, 2012, 11:01:08 am
Is that Hurley's first post on here? Or Smitton's?

Or Sam?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on February 07, 2012, 06:48:18 pm
Eh? Sounds like Nige to me
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on February 07, 2012, 07:12:21 pm
Smitton already posts as Shy Ted. Can't be him.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grimer on February 07, 2012, 09:29:51 pm
Funny stuff  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Boredboy on February 08, 2012, 09:46:13 am
It could be a group message? :popcorn:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 08, 2012, 12:32:29 pm
not climbing...

but really chuffed to finally get out of Sheffield on me bike via the Abbeydale road in the big ring!

it's only taken me 4 years...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nigel on February 08, 2012, 01:53:56 pm
Is that Hurley's first post on here? Or Smitton's?

Oooh good guesses but its not the one. You’d have thought they’d have taken the opportunity to spread a malicious untrue rumour wouldn’t you?  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 08, 2012, 01:54:38 pm
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6841113125_5c73046c5b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/oldmanmatt/6841113125/)
2012-02-08-13-43-24_1E8D1698-175D-4F79-AF50-87BCB70A540D (http://www.flickr.com/photos/oldmanmatt/6841113125/) by oldmanmatt (http://www.flickr.com/people/oldmanmatt/), on Flickr



I can't tell you, how much, how good...
Amen.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 08, 2012, 01:56:21 pm
 :great: :2thumbsup: :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on February 08, 2012, 01:59:54 pm
Now that really is a YYFY.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bubba on February 08, 2012, 02:08:47 pm
Fucking RESULT !!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 08, 2012, 02:09:44 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 08, 2012, 03:04:16 pm
Too bloody right!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 08, 2012, 03:45:54 pm
:) superb.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 08, 2012, 08:08:29 pm
I know this may sound disrespectful towards Matt's difficult situation, but when I read the letter I started grinning like a mofo!!!
Back of the line, bishop.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on February 08, 2012, 09:43:12 pm
well chuffed for you. been following your blog for a while now and you really deserve some luck. :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 10, 2012, 02:52:35 pm
despite leaving it too late ( other life events needed sorting first)

I've got a gite for the bouldering en famille easter trip.

Thank god, 3 days of searching....

yyfy for the FD family!!

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on February 10, 2012, 09:28:04 pm
I handed my notice in at work last week. I have come to realise whats truly important in life, and missing out on spending time with my loved ones to pursue a career in an awful place is just not right.

I am moving back to my parents farm at Keswick to allow me to spend more time with my family, especially my two young daughters who I have hardly seen for the last 7 months. I am going to be spending the next few years helping my folks on the farm but also learning the skills needed to start my own business doing dry stone walling, fencing and other boundary work.

I have never been more sure, and finally feel like I have found what I should be doing in life. Happiness is the key.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 10, 2012, 09:36:49 pm
That sounds like the real deal.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 10, 2012, 09:44:59 pm
Go for it!
Life is shorter than you think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 10, 2012, 10:24:09 pm
I handed my notice in at work last week. I have come to realise whats truly important in life, and missing out on spending time with my loved ones to pursue a career in an awful place is just not right.

I am moving back to my parents farm at Keswick to allow me to spend more time with my family, especially my two young daughters who I have hardly seen for the last 7 months. I am going to be spending the next few years helping my folks on the farm but also learning the skills needed to start my own business doing dry stone walling, fencing and other boundary work.

I have never been more sure, and finally feel like I have found what I should be doing in life. Happiness is the key.

fuckin respect.....

i too have learnt i need more time.... it's been a harsh few years. a harsher lesson to learn this.

2012... let's all have it. i too am totally sure...a great and rare frame of mind out of childhood - damn those little critters seem to have all the answers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on February 10, 2012, 10:29:48 pm

Go for it!
Life is shorter than you think.

My dad was pretty ill over Christmas, like I have never seen before. It scared me and it made me realise I had to do something to help. I have wasted years working in retail, but funnily enough, my dad did loads of jobs before taking over the farm from my grandad! I can't do that unfortunatly as the Cunty County Council, who we lease the farm from, are hell bent on selling it. It does however give me the chance to make the change in my life to help my parents and help myself as well.

Its a big year for me, on the 30th of April I turn 30 years old, I will work my last shift for a heartless retail monster and then move my life back to where it all began, my family home! I am over the moon, and look forward to the future now as I feel like its all ready planned out and that fate truly has stepped in. Its quite an odd sensation, one I have not had before. But I just know I am doing the right thing and that everything will work out fine. I am not going to let any one get in my way, thats for sure!

Quote
2012... let's all have it.

I coudn't agree more. I wrote a list of thing I was going to achieve this year, I have ticked the major one all ready but there are heaps more to go at!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 10, 2012, 10:37:35 pm
your presence on here never fails to inspire Golt

 :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 10, 2012, 10:59:59 pm
Nice one dude. You sometimes need to go out and search for true happiness in the wrong places before you realise it was in the back garden all along.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on February 10, 2012, 11:20:44 pm
 :agree:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bubba on February 10, 2012, 11:26:50 pm
You sometimes need to go out and search for true happiness in the wrong places before you realise it was in the back garden all along.
Just ask Fred & Rosemary West.

Nice one Golt :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on February 10, 2012, 11:59:46 pm
I'm psyched for you Golt. Hope all those cold early mornings make you as happy as they should do. (All farmers get up early in the cold, right?)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 11, 2012, 09:51:21 am
Today, after several days of inadequate and unsatisfactory efforts, I finally had my first proper post-operation bowel evacuation

 :dance1:


 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 11, 2012, 10:20:14 am
 :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on February 11, 2012, 10:54:44 am
Hope it all goes well Mike.

Congrats Lagers. I bet that was a relief.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on February 11, 2012, 12:01:35 pm
learning the skills needed to start my own business doing dry stone walling, fencing and other boundary work.
Loving the change Golt. I often dream about doing something similar except I don't have parents with a farm to fall back on.
Knowing a guy who does dry stone walling for a living. One, you're gonna get beast strong and two once you pick a stone, use it, constantly trying to find the perfect stone is gonna get old soon.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on February 11, 2012, 06:59:27 pm
After a dissapointing start to the day at Roaches (which is currently covered in half and inch of ice) we headed to Wrights rock where I put to bed Simple Simon, a bit of a Wrights nemesis of mine.
Lots more good stuff done up there today my the team but this was my highlight.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 11, 2012, 10:57:36 pm
once you pick a stone, use it,

Isn't that part of the dry stone walling thing, that once you pick up a stone you need to find a place for it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i_a_coops on February 22, 2012, 11:45:30 pm
First real indoor bouldering session since operation 6 weeks ago. Fell off from a range of heights and my foot survived  :2thumbsup: Also all the fingerboarding seems to have had noticeable results, which bodes well for my dream of being the most ridiculously over-strong punter in the world. YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Milford Cubicle on February 23, 2012, 10:27:40 pm
Sweet BM session today, beat my crimp hang pb by a few seconds up to 12, doubled my pull up pb up to 12 and tripled my pb hang time on the 35's making it 32 seconds :D psyched to get 7a before I become 21 on the 23rd of april :D

x
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: clm on February 23, 2012, 11:33:00 pm
Sweet BM session today, beat my crimp hang pb by a few seconds up to 12, doubled my pull up pb up to 12 and tripled my pb hang time on the 35's making it 32 seconds :D psyched to get 7a before I become 21 on the 23rd of april :D

x

Not wanting to piss on your chips but I'm thnking you need to beast maker less and climb more. Those numbers are way enough for 7a (I'm sure I couldn't do most of those things), maybe need to work on the subtleties?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on February 23, 2012, 11:43:32 pm
Sweet BM session today, beat my crimp hang pb by a few seconds up to 12, doubled my pull up pb up to 12 and tripled my pb hang time on the 35's making it 32 seconds :D psyched to get 7a before I become 21 on the 23rd of april :D

x

Not wanting to piss on your chips but I'm thnking you need to beast maker less and climb more. Those numbers are way enough for 7a (I'm sure I couldn't do most of those things), maybe need to work on the subtleties?

ditto that. with that kind of strength it sounds like you could do 7a easily. things like gorilla warfare on the grit or lime stuff like toms original at stoney should fit. even without much technique (i'm not saying you that applies to you  :) ) these problems should be ok based purely on your strength levels. climb more and train a bit less and youll move through the grades  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fuzzface93 on February 23, 2012, 11:54:55 pm
Wrong account
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Milford Cubicle on February 23, 2012, 11:56:39 pm
I would always climb over training on a board but the only thing I can train on atm is a beastmaker, hitting peaks on sat and going to be climbing outside a lot more hopefully as I moved nearer to rock recently. My technique defo needs some improvement, but hopefully gonna get that by climbing outside more. Up until now I havn't been able to climb outside all to much, and not really much at all on grit so hopefully my grit tech'ers should improve pretty quickly  got the roaches an hours drive away so gonna try and find a 7a to project there me tinks:)

x
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on February 24, 2012, 12:10:13 am
Look at too drunk, good steep crimpy 7a or sleeping with the flowers (6c+ but some say 7a). Sidepull wall along the edge is a great 7a aswell, good luck  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on February 24, 2012, 07:57:17 am
Keep driving past the Roaches and get yourself on Stall arete at Gibb Tor, and the Fin.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Milford Cubicle on February 25, 2012, 09:00:18 pm
Went to the roaches today, sent calcutta traverse that I dabbed on last time I was there, sent the 6a arete on Tetris boulder and tried too drunk, only got one move but is a proper kl problem and defiantly going to project it :)

x
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on February 25, 2012, 10:48:46 pm
Did the Cave at RHS today, my first 7a, at the ripe old age of 42. After a year of worrying health problems, it's just the tonic I needed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on February 26, 2012, 05:20:04 pm
Nice one DanM!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 26, 2012, 06:44:37 pm
Climbed my first font6B+ today
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on February 27, 2012, 12:18:16 pm
Climbed my first font6B+ today

Top man!  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan campbell on February 27, 2012, 12:45:17 pm
I know its a route, so prob shouldn't post it here, but I did Heading the Shot first go on sat having had a few ground up attempts a year or two ago! Clips were in but I climbed the crux onsight... definately a YYFY moment clipping the anchors looking out over Moel Eilio and onto Anglesey! Super happy as it's my first Fr7a+ lead clean, and the fact I flashed it is awesome! Back into the swing of trying hard again!

Hope everyone's had a good weekend!  :)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 01, 2012, 10:02:42 am
managed to finish the last of the cheap, muddy coffee that Mrs Starfish bought

YYFY!

bring on the Italian power soup
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: scribble on March 01, 2012, 10:53:53 am
I was faced with the prospect of another staggeringly disproportionate admin role at work, explained why I was really opposed to taking it on and have been told fine it will be given to someone else. Not sure if this is a YYFY or just a TFFT...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: scribble on March 01, 2012, 11:15:49 am
I handed my notice in at work last week. I have come to realise whats truly important in life, and missing out on spending time with my loved ones to pursue a career in an awful place is just not right.

Brilliant.  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on March 05, 2012, 08:34:59 pm
having gone to el chorro with a massive target list and improved strength from a solid winter of bouldering i was hopeful i would be able to climb something hard. two days in all i had done was fail on everything 7a<. unfortunately all of my bouldering (and lack of any bolt clipping since october) had obviously not been the best prep for the 30m stamina pitches of this place. however after a week of slowly building on 7as and bs i went back to el triangulo and got on madre salvaje, the classic 7c that had burnt me so badly on the first day. i re-learnt the moves but still couldnt link it in any sections. i persuaded a german guy trying the route to leave his clips in and let me have one go at linking the route (being the 2nd to last day and 3rd day on it was probably going to be my last chance of doing it) I climbed the route in woeful style, slapping and cutting near the top, forgetting sequences etc but astoundingly to me (and the climbers at the crag) i reached the chain. just goes to show the "last day" effect. hope it has the same effect for dom tomorrow on lourdes...  :2thumbsup:   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 10, 2012, 02:31:12 pm
Went to Curbar this morning with Galpinos, had a fun session and ticked Seans Arete. I'm pretty psyched: I did it in a session, it is my first bonafide 7b, and it was really fun. YYFY with knobs on.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 10, 2012, 07:07:18 pm
Went to Curbar this morning with Galpinos, had a fun session and ticked Seans Arete. I'm pretty psyched: I did it in a session, it is my first bonafide 7b, and it was really fun. YYFY with knobs on.

Nice one Sam - its a top problem :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on March 10, 2012, 08:03:14 pm
 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 10, 2012, 08:52:20 pm
That's an impressive one to do as your first, techy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on March 10, 2012, 09:02:21 pm
That's an impressive one to do as your first, techy!

too true, deliverance is the only other problem that has taken me more sessions, great effort sam  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 10, 2012, 09:29:26 pm
If I have a strength it is being techy, and I'm lanky. Still, I'm totally made up. Cheers all.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 14, 2012, 06:02:34 pm
not bouldering (d'oh), but I'm very happy, today I finally managed to hang the small pockets, back2, with 6 kg on!!!
it was a real goal of mine, don't know how I managed it, but it happened!!!
I reckon a perfect positioning is crucial.
YYFY!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 15, 2012, 05:32:12 pm
not bouldering (d'oh), but I'm very happy, today I finally managed to hang the small pockets, back2, with 6 kg on!!!
it was a real goal of mine, don't know how I managed it, but it happened!!!
I reckon being massively overstrong for my project is crucial.
YYFY!!!

 :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 15, 2012, 08:44:48 pm
Totally unexpected send of Dreamland. All it took was a mate to spot the foothold!  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 15, 2012, 09:00:27 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 15, 2012, 09:08:26 pm
Totally unexpected send of Dreamland. All it took was a mate to spot the foothold!  :bounce:

Nice one.  Lovely problem
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 15, 2012, 09:57:10 pm
No thanks to your hold spotter. shocking. I should get the tick....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chillax on March 17, 2012, 03:12:38 am
First V5 and V6 flashes today, and Jedi Mind Tricks and Suspended In Silence both second go. Psyched. I like Bishop.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AdamD on March 18, 2012, 04:05:04 pm
Did the 'In Excess sit down start' at Craig Y Longridge today, first font7c of the year  ;D :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on March 19, 2012, 04:32:12 pm
Last week I redpointed my first 7a and today I flashed my first 6B boulder problem.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 24, 2012, 06:25:12 pm
Drove into Maisonbleau
Got directions to the problem of choice from "da man" (aka Neil)
Went to problem - bagged first one session 7b+ (Water Roof)
Went back to Maisonbleau - Gooners 3 Villains 0
Waiting for meatballs to cook
YYFY
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 24, 2012, 10:21:25 pm
That's a good day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 26, 2012, 09:23:10 am
How were the meatballs?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on March 26, 2012, 09:57:24 am
YYFY!

Managed to get a job as a project manager at the company I work for!
Pretty chuffed to get it as I never went to university and I thought I'd be working on the tools for a long time to come. Should be starting in the next couple of weeks. No more silly early morning starts and long knackering days on site plus the office is in Sheffield so I'll be able to get down the the Foundry and the Works in the evenings and do some proper training :)

YYFY! :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 26, 2012, 10:01:36 am
YYFY!

Managed to get a job as a project manager at the company I work for!
Pretty chuffed to get it as I never went to university and I thought I'd be working on the tools for a long time to come. Should be starting in the next couple of weeks. No more silly early morning starts and long knackering days on site plus the office is in Sheffield so I'll be able to get down the the Foundry and the Works in the evenings and do some proper training :)

YYFY! :)

Nice one Will. Though now you're one of them 'upstairs' does that mean no more rude derogatory and amusing comments from your workmates on your FB updates? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 26, 2012, 10:20:27 am
YYFY!

Managed to get a job as a project manager at the company I work for!
Pretty chuffed to get it as I never went to university and I thought I'd be working on the tools for a long time to come. Should be starting in the next couple of weeks. No more silly early morning starts and long knackering days on site plus the office is in Sheffield so I'll be able to get down the the Foundry and the Works in the evenings and do some proper training :)

YYFY! :)

Nice one Willbur - you da man!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: north_country_boy on March 26, 2012, 10:32:17 am
YYFY!

Managed to get a job as a project manager at the company I work for!
Pretty chuffed to get it as I never went to university and I thought I'd be working on the tools for a long time to come. Should be starting in the next couple of weeks. No more silly early morning starts and long knackering days on site plus the office is in Sheffield so I'll be able to get down the the Foundry and the Works in the evenings and do some proper training :)

YYFY! :)

Nice. ;) Best get some pen pushing practice in. Milk no sugar please.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 26, 2012, 10:39:05 am
Nice one Will.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on March 26, 2012, 10:51:46 am
He will be sat across from me........
get the brews on youth
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 26, 2012, 12:25:31 pm
YYFY!

Managed to get a job as a project manager at the company I work for!
Pretty chuffed to get it as I never went to university and I thought I'd be working on the tools for a long time to come. Should be starting in the next couple of weeks. No more silly early morning starts and long knackering days on site plus the office is in Sheffield so I'll be able to get down the the Foundry and the Works in the evenings and do some proper training :)

YYFY! :)

Mate,
I never went to Uni either.
I am a time served Apprentice. (City and Guilds (master craftsman, fitter and turner) and Btec all the way).
Now a bona fide Engineer.
Lots of short courses, lots of part time and distance learning and a year off here and there to study.
It can be done.

Might get around to finishing my second MSc (currently on indefinite hold) one day (distance).

Got more bits of paper than Somerset house these days and a long string of letters after my name (like "who?", "what?", "reward for information leading to" and "do not approach!").

Good luck and never let anyone tell you, you can't do it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 26, 2012, 12:46:12 pm
I never went to Uni either.

+1
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 26, 2012, 12:53:54 pm
I never went to Uni either.

+1

I went to Uni, twice. Took two degrees, one in law and one in political sciences. Then I shoved them up my a*** and started teaching. One of the best choices of my life.
Uni is useless if one hates what he's doing.
Well done Will!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on March 26, 2012, 07:01:47 pm
I went to uni in Sheffield, unfortunately 1 year in I discovered The Limit club, then the Palais and CJs unsurprisingly I didn't finish my degree. Ended up doing professional qualifications and MBA through work etc etc my only mate who finished his degree works as a call centre grunt. Just did a pb for pull ups today - shame it won't transfer to rock.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on March 26, 2012, 09:25:50 pm
Managed to get my thesis in today (finally)... It all felt like a massive anti-climax but its a big relief to get it in, now there's just the small matter of a Viva some time in June.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 26, 2012, 09:45:50 pm
Managed to get my thesis in today (finally)... It all felt like a massive anti-climax but its a big relief to get it in, now there's just the small matter of a Viva some time in June.

\o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 26, 2012, 11:05:38 pm
He will be sat across from me........
get the brews on youth

U can stop leading the youth astray right now, u naughty little man.. ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 27, 2012, 06:27:20 am
I never went to Uni either.

+1

I never left.

Well done Will and Paul.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 27, 2012, 06:32:24 am
Managed to get my thesis in today (finally)... It all felt like a massive anti-climax but its a big relief to get it in, now there's just the small matter of a Viva some time in June.
YYFY Congrats Paul!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 27, 2012, 07:45:53 am
Managed to get my thesis in today (finally)... It all felt like a massive anti-climax but its a big relief to get it in, now there's just the small matter of a Viva some time in June.
YYFY Congrats Paul!!!

Indeed YYFY. I think most people experience the handing in as an anti-climax, the viva is more a matter of relief (presuming success of course), the last satisfaction comes a bit later.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on March 27, 2012, 10:28:54 am
Managed to get my thesis in today (finally)... It all felt like a massive anti-climax but its a big relief to get it in, now there's just the small matter of a Viva some time in June.

Nice one Paul. So many go through the effort of research and never make it to submission.  Congrats
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 27, 2012, 10:59:59 am
Well done P-ben.  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on March 27, 2012, 11:07:36 am
He will be sat across from me........
get the brews on youth

That's all you lot ever seem to be doing when I come in the office! ;)

Cheers everyone, bit nervous about starting as it's a big change, I'm just hoping I don't go to mad being stuck in an office all day. It's definitely the right move though, exciting stuff :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 27, 2012, 11:22:31 am
He will be sat across from me........
get the brews on youth

I'm just hoping I don't go to mad being stuck in an office all day.

Nice one Wil (Don't do a Rob) stick with it even if takes a while to get used to it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on March 27, 2012, 06:19:21 pm
I never left.

I'm working on that bit (applied for an RA position last week).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 27, 2012, 07:36:51 pm
I never left.

I'm working on that bit (applied for an RA position last week).

It can be very uncertain getting established, and of course for too many it remains very insecure, but when I works its a brilliant career - I love it, feel privileged and wouldn't change it for anything.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 27, 2012, 07:37:52 pm
I never left.

I'm working on that bit (applied for an RA position last week).
A Rock Atrocity position? Which one? The move I prefer is the right heel hook.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on March 31, 2012, 07:54:05 pm
Managed to link Stu's Roof at Almscliff today first proper 7C+ YYFY!!!!!!   :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on March 31, 2012, 08:33:01 pm
Nice one peewee,a top effort. Good to see you properly fight on something!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on April 01, 2012, 11:06:24 am
Finally did a 7B+ that wont be downgraded or taken away from me any time soon!

Carnage in 1 session,
just planning my second trip for a few days time too.
Psyched to get on arabesque and the sit of carnage YYFY if the weather and my muscles are amenable.


Carnage 7B+ Bas Cuvier (http://vimeo.com/39558161)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 01, 2012, 12:00:09 pm
Good effort, but the sit? There's far too much quality only minutes away...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on April 01, 2012, 12:02:39 pm
Carnage assis is an eliminate too, a fact often overlooked.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on April 01, 2012, 12:25:31 pm
eliminate how?

I confess, I only want to do the sit for my first 7C, I already did the sequence for the top so I figure it might be the best shot I have.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on April 01, 2012, 12:37:11 pm
I think you're not meant to match on the holds after the chipped crimp and before the big high boss. Check on bleau.info. Its totally bullshit and makes no sense but thats what its graded for. I presume they do it like this so that the sitter is a 7c instead of just a harder 7b+ maybe?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 01, 2012, 12:44:00 pm
Walk on up the path and try Noir Desir or Tristesse.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on April 01, 2012, 01:01:28 pm
I had a go at noir desir and got a lesson in just how weak I am...
Maybe next year, or with a troop of psyched beta bunnies it might feel a little less implausible.

Tristesse looks scary, but it might be worth a go.

Bleau suggests that the eliminate is largely ignored now at roughly the same grade...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 01, 2012, 01:44:55 pm
I had a go at noir desir and got a lesson in just how weak I am...

Funny, I just got a lesson (or five) in body position.

It can be very uncertain getting established, and of course for too many it remains very insecure, but when I works its a brilliant career - I love it, feel privileged and wouldn't change it for anything.

any advice for interviewing for an RA position? Its slightly awkward as two of the appointing lecturers were both RAs in my office for the past 4 or so years and hence know me on a personal level. I think I'm going to find it pretty difficult to handle that correctly. I'm currently seeking out all the papers they've published in the research field over the past few years and reading the background papers cited in these too. I guess I'll likely be asked to summarise my thesis and talk about that as well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 01, 2012, 04:45:49 pm
I think you're not meant to match on the holds after the chipped crimp and before the big high boss. Check on bleau.info. Its totally bullshit and makes no sense but thats what its graded for. I presume they do it like this so that the sitter is a 7c instead of just a harder 7b+ maybe?

I think you're bang on the money there.

For the sit, as you said it goes chipped crimp for rh, then lh to the lh of the two crimps and then flick/jump/whatever the rh directly through to the boss.

I confess, I only want to do the sit for my first 7C, I already did the sequence for the top so I figure it might be the best shot I have.

It's a problem (the sitter) that I have not done, for the reasons set out by Paul, but I can kinda see why you would be excited if it becomes your first at the grade
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on April 01, 2012, 05:00:59 pm
I had a go at noir desir and got a lesson in just how weak I am...

Funny, I just got a lesson (or five) in body position.

It can be very uncertain getting established, and of course for too many it remains very insecure, but when I works its a brilliant career - I love it, feel privileged and wouldn't change it for anything.

Took me a while to work out you weren't still talking about Noir Desir then!  :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 02, 2012, 05:18:20 pm
It can be very uncertain getting established, and of course for too many it remains very insecure, but when I works its a brilliant career - I love it, feel privileged and wouldn't change it for anything.

any advice for interviewing for an RA position? Its slightly awkward as two of the appointing lecturers were both RAs in my office for the past 4 or so years and hence know me on a personal level. I think I'm going to find it pretty difficult to handle that correctly. I'm currently seeking out all the papers they've published in the research field over the past few years and reading the background papers cited in these too. I guess I'll likely be asked to summarise my thesis and talk about that as well.

The situation of being interviewed by people you know is very common in academia - we all work in relatively small fields and get to know everyone. People get quite good at separating work and the personal - it can be total gloves off stuff in a seminar and then all fine and happy in the bar afterwards. Good academics are interested in good work above all else. You sound like you're doing the right things. I presume its for an already specified project? - work out a story about why you're the best person to carry it out. My first post doc was along way outside my real interest but I got it through an argument about what my perspective would bring to it (which they hadn't thought about).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 03, 2012, 08:16:22 am
Finally the quest is over. I am officially mental. Ready for the asylum and the straightjacket. I am on the bus, as high as if'd snorted a meter of cocaine, after one of the best fingerboarding sessions of my life.
The walls were trembling from The Who, and I felt bolted to the holds. Managed to hang the monos with ring fingers with 6 kg on.
Now give me my pills nurse.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on April 03, 2012, 04:46:03 pm
I think you're not meant to match on the holds after the chipped crimp and before the big high boss. Check on bleau.info. Its totally bullshit and makes no sense but thats what its graded for. I presume they do it like this so that the sitter is a 7c instead of just a harder 7b+ maybe?

Think it's given 7c these days however you do it. The eliminate was graded 7c before the start hold was chipped off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 04, 2012, 10:08:20 pm
Not a very big YYFY but I will be signing for a house tomorrow that is t-minus 1 mile's walk from Shipley Glen  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tregiffian on April 04, 2012, 11:07:20 pm
Can you get a season ticket on the tramway???
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on April 06, 2012, 07:56:59 am
First 7B yesterday  ;D 4 sessions and some quality French beta got me up it in the end.. l'oeuf at Petit Bois
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 07, 2012, 07:27:56 am
l'oeuf is quality.

carnage assis is a piece of shit that has never seen 7c. if carnage was your first 7b+ and you was to do the sitter nx go you would ave done 2 7b+'s. don't shoot the messenger i didn't invent maths
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on April 09, 2012, 11:35:58 am
Climbed my first Font 6C yesterday after encouragement and better beta from tomtom and Falling Down
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 09, 2012, 02:27:09 pm
Unexpected, but not unwelcome, payrise. Which was nice, especially as last one was 1st Jan.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 10, 2012, 10:22:22 am
Yesterday I took my first unaided steps since busting my ankle on 28th January

Today the ankle feels OK and I have done some more

YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 10, 2012, 10:29:02 am
Good news, big man.   :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 10, 2012, 10:49:40 am
Nice one, just don't overdo it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 10, 2012, 10:54:01 am
don't overdo it!

the Black Walker is back on

(http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/521/024/360/360024521_031.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on April 10, 2012, 11:04:45 am
I thought I recognised you!

(http://www.weirdwildrealm.com/filmimages/crash-cronenberg.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 10, 2012, 03:52:36 pm
Good stuff.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 10, 2012, 04:00:10 pm
Nice one LSF. Now then.. where's the mobility scooter stunt video we've all been looking forward to? I want to see some go-pro on scooter footage of you zooming through Meadowhell at 30mph ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 10, 2012, 07:30:41 pm
 Good news Lagers!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 10, 2012, 07:35:44 pm
Nice one LSF. Now then.. where's the mobility scooter stunt video we've all been looking forward to?

saving it for next year's SHAFF
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: biscuit on April 10, 2012, 09:09:09 pm
Mild YYFY as i may have just climbed my first 7b.

It's not in any guide books but my partner reckoned maybe really hard 7a+ or easy 7b and she doesn't do over grading.

Either way it's a step up for me as i refused a clip stick and bolt to bolted it like a man should before cruising it on top rope. I even did a dyno on-sight that turned out to be the crux. This was mainly because i misheard my partner. I thought she said " It's a good hold." Turns out she actually said " It's a good fall." Oops !

More happy with the bolt to bolt as it was a dirty over looked line so footholds were crumbling and holds were dirty and no chalk marks anywhere, felt very committing to me. Lovely route though once cleaned up.

I then disgraced myself by falling off the dyno crux next go but recovered, taped up the flapper i now have and shook myself to the top next go.

Onwards from here but if i can get hard 7a+/b in a very short session i am more hopeful for 7c this year than i was last week.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on April 16, 2012, 08:18:58 am
Very small numbers compared to most of this thread but I did Tiger at Burb South for the first time yesterday (probably 7 years since I first looked at it). It went first go and then I did it next go as well just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. (I'm claiming 6b) obviously having the beastmaker 1k up for 4 days has made all the difference in making me a very happy fat punter. 7a will be mine.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 16, 2012, 08:38:31 am
Very small numbers compared to most of this thread but I did Tiger at Burb South for the first time yesterday

Hey! congratulations. We punters should be able to celebrate our achievements too. I posted my first 6B here too, this time last year. Mine was some grotty limestone traverse underneath an overhang on a rainy afternoon in Arco that didn't even have a name, so yours is way better.

I had a sniff around the Tank boulder in January but didn't get very far on anything due to lack of mat / muddy feet / lack of psyche / first contact with grit this millenium ... general punterness.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 16, 2012, 08:45:14 am

Onwards from here but if i can get hard 7a+/b in a very short session i am more hopeful for 7c this year than i was last week.

I've seen you climb. You can do F7c, just get on some and grind them down! (not literally, then they'd be F8a...  :spank: )  Good work on the send.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on April 16, 2012, 11:37:08 am
I have an offer from Sheffield Hallam.  :smartass: Wouldnt have happened without help from the UKB brain trust.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 16, 2012, 11:38:11 am
That's excellent.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 16, 2012, 11:39:04 am
UKB brain trust.

That's a kind way of putting it. Shared braincell is the usual way :)

And nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 16, 2012, 03:41:12 pm
Who's got the braincell this week? And can we ban slackline from stealing it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: biscuit on April 17, 2012, 09:36:11 pm

Onwards from here but if i can get hard 7a+/b in a very short session i am more hopeful for 7c this year than i was last week.

I've seen you climb. You can do F7c, just get on some and grind them down! (not literally, then they'd be F8a...  :spank: )  Good work on the send.  :2thumbsup:

Cheers mate  :beer2:
It's getting to the point where i may just start to believe it myself.

Quick update is that i climbed my first confirmed 7b tonight with Short Round of this parish. 1 top rope 3 weeks ago, 2 top ropes tonight and then in the bag, despite me trying my best to fluff the easier top half.

Much credit to Short Round for the inspiration ( i only had a go at leading it cos he did it before me ) and he did it in even better style, if we ignore the clip sticking  :P

Not that i stopped him using the clipstick though - i kind of liked it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 17, 2012, 10:21:10 pm
 
I have an offer from Sheffield Hallam.  :smartass: Wouldnt have happened without help from the UKB brain trust.
:punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on April 21, 2012, 06:21:24 pm
Did Giza at B North today, dropped the move to the top twice about 3 weeks ago and going back today got it 3rd go  ;D
Look what 2 weeks in North Wales does to you  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 22, 2012, 06:09:40 am
Nice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 23, 2012, 03:00:15 pm
massive YYFY.
last Saturday I had one of those days.
I climbed two projects on my board. one had been a project for a few months now. mega chuffed. really really strong, both phisically and mentally.
I can recall the exact feelings and tactile perceptions. amazing.
this will stay with me forever.
luckily my g/f was in the other room, so she didn't see me with my eyes wet.
I felt the greatest.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 23, 2012, 04:09:09 pm
massive YYFY.
last Saturday I had one of those days.
I climbed two projects on my board. one had been a project for a few months now. mega chuffed. really really strong, both phisically and mentally.
I can recall the exact feelings and tactile perceptions. amazing.
this will stay with me forever.
luckily my g/f was in the other room, so she didn't see me with my eyes wet.
I felt the greatest.

Awesome, that is such a rare feeling  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AdamD on April 23, 2012, 06:08:38 pm
My dad has survived his quadruple bypass surgery today and is finally on the mend  ;D

However I have a slight NNFN in the fact that my clutch has just gone on my car...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 23, 2012, 07:24:23 pm
I can balance on my fooked foot (no shoes or support of any kind) for 30 seconds.

Being able to do a calf raise on just that foot feels a million miles away
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on April 23, 2012, 07:39:54 pm
massive YYFY.
last Saturday I had one of those days.
I climbed two projects on my board. one had been a project for a few months now. mega chuffed. really really strong, both phisically and mentally.
I can recall the exact feelings and tactile perceptions. amazing.
this will stay with me forever.
luckily my g/f was in the other room, so she didn't see me with my eyes wet.
I felt the greatest.

If that is not the epitomy of obsession, I don't know what is.   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 24, 2012, 08:43:41 am
My 1000th post!

21 days, 18 hours and 4 minutes spent on the forum since January 15, 2004, only 2 punter points and none of it feels like it was wasted ;)

Thanks to you all for making my life richer and providing me with amusement, intrigue, beta and for generally putting up with me over the past 8 years. Special thanks to Bubba for having the balls to put the forum together in the first place, cheers geez!

Looking forward to the next 8 years and beyond!

Si
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 24, 2012, 08:49:25 pm
My 1000th post!

21 days, 18 hours and 4 minutes spent on the forum since January 15, 2004, only 2 punter points and none of it feels like it was wasted ;)

Thanks to you all for making my life richer and providing me with amusement, intrigue, beta and for generally putting up with me over the past 8 years. Special thanks to Bubba for having the balls to put the forum together in the first place, cheers geez!

Looking forward to the next 8 years and beyond!

Si

See, you made me look at my stats..
15 days 23 hrs and some odd minutes.
811 posts
No punter points, yet...

IN ONE BLOODY YEAR!!

Ergo, I have spent more time on here than I have on the rock!

Bugger.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on April 24, 2012, 09:13:12 pm
79d 18hr

fuck.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 24, 2012, 09:42:45 pm
I'm just not even looking,.. Don't forget I spent 5 years off climbing.. Just about the time I was one for the first to register in here... Oh crickey.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 25, 2012, 11:10:31 am
Don't worry fatdoc your figures are miniscule. Mine aren't but I'm still never going to catch GCW!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: clm on April 25, 2012, 11:40:03 am
[quote authoru=Oldmanmatt link=topic=8101.msg359238#msg359238 date=1335296965]
My 1000th post!

21 days, 18 hours and 4 minutes spent on the forum since January 15, 2004, only 2 punter points and none of it feels like it was wasted ;)

Thanks to you all for making my life richer and providing me with amusement, intrigue, beta and for generally putting up with me over the past 8 years. Special thanks to Bubba for having the balls to put the forum together in the first place, cheers geez!

Looking forward to the next 8 years and beyond!

Si

See, you made me look at my stats..
15 days 23 hrs and some odd minutes.
811 posts
No punter points, yet...

IN ONE BLOODY YEAR!!

Ergo, I have spent more time on here than I have on the rock!

Bugger.
[/quote]

Christ Matt! Admittedly there are 12 days of my life on here that ill never get back but thats since 2004!
Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2012, 12:12:54 pm
If it's work time it's not wasted time.

Won't be long before our accounts dept give me a time code to book UKB time against.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 25, 2012, 12:13:37 pm
It's pretty meaningless in some cases. I have a UKB tab open all day but it doesn't mean I'm on here during all that time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 25, 2012, 12:15:04 pm
Yes but your 9000+ posts do :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 25, 2012, 12:25:43 pm
Yeah number of posts is a more accurate representation than days/hours.  :guilty:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 25, 2012, 12:47:35 pm
I think we need some sort of number of posts vs hours logged on vs wad vs punter point analysis...

I wonder who could do that? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 25, 2012, 12:54:08 pm
Result, managed to crack some software without fucking my PC and then having to get Jim to do it for me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 25, 2012, 01:35:39 pm
Yeah number of posts is a more accurate representation than days/hours.  :guilty:

I think we need some sort of number of posts vs hours logged on vs wad vs punter point analysis...

The posts/per day metric is already listed on each persons main profile page (not under their stats page) and is based on the days since registering rather than hours(/days) logged into site.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on April 26, 2012, 09:43:03 am
I have an offer from Sheffield Hallam. 

That's great.  You've made a better start than I: the bastards rejected me in 1986, not that I'm bitter about it!   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grumpycrumpy on April 26, 2012, 11:17:45 am
Finally, after months and months of fucking about, my van is back on the road .......   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 26, 2012, 11:23:01 am
Fucking hell. It's only taken the best part of a year!

YYFY.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 29, 2012, 02:21:24 pm
YYFY! New 5+6 Font guide is out :-)

http://www.cordee.co.uk/5-And-6-Fontainebleau-det-15-95-95-9554.html
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on May 02, 2012, 05:24:17 pm
YYFY! New 5+6 Font guide is out :-)

http://www.cordee.co.uk/5-And-6-Fontainebleau-det-15-95-95-9554.html (http://www.cordee.co.uk/5-And-6-Fontainebleau-det-15-95-95-9554.html)
I picked up a copy off Neil H on Saturday. It's brilliant.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on May 02, 2012, 05:27:52 pm
Could you tell me what areas are covered in 5+6 book? It says south and central, I have no idea what that means.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on May 02, 2012, 05:39:32 pm
Could you tell me what areas are covered in 5+6 book? It says south and central, I have no idea what that means.


:clown:

N.W.A. - Straight Outta Compton [Explicit] [HD] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MrQtOoQRpc#ws)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on May 02, 2012, 05:52:44 pm
Heres the full list (the lazy way)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7107/6989947228_f9c604a852_c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/grubespics/6989947228/)
DSC_0215 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/grubespics/6989947228/#) by Grubes (http://www.flickr.com/people/grubespics/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on May 02, 2012, 05:57:41 pm
Thanks both of you, I'm checking the list, listening to killah old skool.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on May 03, 2012, 12:33:58 pm
I had a great local session after work last night after pretty much the whole of April off due to a finger injury. My firnd and I warmed up at Newstones where the conditions felt great. We worked thro a really pleasant circuit and moved on to Gibb Tor to get stuck into Fink sitter (A really nice 7B/+ that ive had a couple of good sessions on over the past couple of weeks)
Conditions felt spot on and after a few goes (and a fall from the top after catching the last pocket wrong) I sent it without any mistakes... I love it when a problem pans out like that :)

One of the best problems of its grade in the Western Peak and deffo 7B+ instead of 7B (IMHO)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on May 03, 2012, 01:44:41 pm
Did Famous Grouse Sitter this morning, quality problem that I'd given up on so many times before and my first 7C, really thought the chance had gone for the year so well chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on May 03, 2012, 02:17:01 pm
both great efforts. definately wouldnt recomend famous grouse as being a good first 7c, i cant touch it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on May 03, 2012, 05:02:38 pm
if it might help, here's the (short man's) beta:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg360602.html#msg360602 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg360602.html#msg360602)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on May 03, 2012, 11:11:25 pm
nice, not seen that sequence - only ever tried (and failed) like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=r4DcKUV9how# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=r4DcKUV9how#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on May 04, 2012, 10:23:37 am
if it might help, here's the (short man's) beta:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg360602.html#msg360602 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg360602.html#msg360602)

From leeroy's videos, I get the feeling he's not the shortest of men.......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on May 04, 2012, 10:34:52 am
I think you're right, but I am.... no reason this sequence wouldn't work for taller folk although I think it'd be possible to reach the second LH sloper before deploying the heel hook on the rib.  The sequence in the other vid may be feasible for Leeroy but I couldn't reach the higher hold on the arete from the undercut and my legs aren't flexible enough to fold onto the holds at the lip. 
This is one of those problems though that seems to have loads of different methods and no doubt many more subtleties within each sequence depending on body shape, strengths, weaknesses, etc.  Very much a case of looking, formulating, trying, eliminating, repeat 'til successful.
 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on May 07, 2012, 07:46:48 am
climbed for the 1st time this year at ramshaw with andi.managed 3 v3's .i would have done them 40 foot up in the past.certainly not now
its amazing how you forget how to climb.
enjoyed it though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on May 07, 2012, 08:20:56 am
From leeroy's videos, I get the feeling he's not the shortest of men.......

5'11" with a healthy ape index I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on May 07, 2012, 10:13:26 am
christ! must weigh about 4 stone!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 07, 2012, 10:30:17 am
christ! must weigh about 4 stone!

aye but he offsets that by growing a hefty banf of a hairdo, kids got ethics.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 07, 2012, 11:22:10 am
christ! must weigh about 4 stone!

aye but he offsets that by growing a hefty banf of a hairdo, kids got ethics.

Please let banf be a spelling mistake, rather than me being even further from being down wid da kids ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: youngy on May 07, 2012, 11:24:12 am
YYFY after a year plagued with injury i feel i've started training again and back out on real rock.
After a very short session a couple of weeks ago at Longridge gave Big Marine a go and got spanked.
Returned yesterday to destroy it!!
absolutley shat myself on the last move though with no spotters but so pleased to be back in the game!!
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on May 07, 2012, 01:38:27 pm
Effort Youngy lad! Good tick that...

I had a boss day out at Caley yesterday which was significant in that the wife tried really, really hard and surprised both of us by climbing a 5+ slab! Only her third time out, but the first time she's really fought hard with something and got really psyched by climbing. I sense a family Font trip is considerably more likely :-)

The day was also boss because we saw Red Kite's at very close range (but there's another thread for that...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: youngy on May 07, 2012, 03:09:17 pm
Did it look like this Si?
(http://wwwdelivery.superstock.com/WI/223/1598/PreviewComp/SuperStock_1598R-9957043.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 07, 2012, 05:51:13 pm
More like this I suspect:

(http://www.pigeonracingpigeon.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/pigeon-school.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on May 08, 2012, 10:42:38 am
Twats...

Actually, like this! (Apologies for size and poor quality of picture...)

(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/554370_461983720484893_100000198075557_103477770_221764543_n.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on May 08, 2012, 11:04:52 am
Class pigeon that Si.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 08, 2012, 11:57:35 am
Looks black to me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 08, 2012, 11:59:31 am
I can now stand, one legged, on the ball of my foot - the leg with the broken ankle.

I can't push myself up into this position with one leg/foot, but that can't be far off.

This encourages me to think that top-ropeing routes might be possible....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 10, 2012, 12:59:39 pm
I'm grinning like a mofo.
after a few days off and with my dodgy wrist I went bouldering today and did an 8a.
fooooooooooooookin' yesssssssssss
life's crazy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on May 10, 2012, 01:42:44 pm
I went bouldering today and did an 8a.

Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 10, 2012, 07:28:41 pm
thanks guys! nope, not the first one but for sure the one that felt the easiest.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on May 10, 2012, 09:16:41 pm
but for sure the one that felt the easiest.

training paying off nicely!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 10, 2012, 09:22:56 pm
but for sure the one that felt the easiest.

training paying off nicely!

... and the resting?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 11, 2012, 06:26:03 am
Oh yes, definitely!!! I felt it on every move.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on May 11, 2012, 12:07:30 pm
And the armband? Did it accompany you upwards Lo?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 11, 2012, 12:32:37 pm
Despite always being in my bag, this time I did not wear it. On this problem there is a particularly tenuous underclings section and I couldn't risk ripping it off...
 :tease:
Jokes apart, I had it on while working it, but not on the ascent. It's one of those magical things...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 12, 2012, 04:36:25 pm
Small one...

But not to me.

Finally got on Supertrouper!!!

Whats that? Four months after deciding to project it?

It'll go. Coming up short on the sloper as yet, but feel like that and the next move will go. Difficulty holding the lock, which I shall have to work on.

Made far more progress on the 7C roof/Saddle tor traverse. Stuck making the transition from the roof to the slopers.
Again, coming up short from the lock...
The remainder is an endurance fest on the slopers and felt fairly straight forward (?!), have to see when I come to link it up.

Pretty happy at the progress for an hour and a quarter on the rock...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nick B on May 12, 2012, 09:32:58 pm
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner (http://www.twitter.com/adenseloner)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on May 12, 2012, 11:10:15 pm
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner (http://www.twitter.com/adenseloner)

awesome fucking welles.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on May 13, 2012, 01:02:45 am
Sent Ram Air at Ramshaw Rocks today AND gorra a birra sunburn on't top of me swede... a good day indeed  ;D
Calafornina Screaming on the other hand...!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on May 13, 2012, 08:40:46 am
YYFY! I've bagged the first of my winter projects. Ticked Vitamin C at Sissy this morning after failing to stick the final sloper for months over the Summer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on May 13, 2012, 10:05:08 am
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner (http://www.twitter.com/adenseloner)

This better not be some cruel hoax! Move over Stephen Fry.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 13, 2012, 10:16:53 am
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner (http://www.twitter.com/adenseloner)

This better not be some cruel hoax! Move over Stephen Fry.

More the bastard child of Simon Cowell / Victor Meldrew and Anne Robinson...
But Educated by a Stephen Fry, who's not been taking his meds...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2012, 10:34:58 am
#everythingsshit is already trending
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: clm on May 13, 2012, 06:32:49 pm
The obvious :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on May 14, 2012, 11:07:52 am
Highballed Entropys Jaw yesterday, have been waiting to do for so long now and just had a fantastic day yesterday made all the better by this route, good times  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 14, 2012, 12:02:08 pm
Nice work, classic green door move that one...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on May 14, 2012, 12:20:43 pm
Nice one, highballing Entropys Jaw is on my 'one day' list.. How many pads/spotters did you have? I assume the crux is pretty much as the top?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on May 14, 2012, 12:29:48 pm
cheers. Erm, Sam, I had 4 pads and one spot, dont know about the crux, can imagine differant people thinking the crux is in differant places on it depending on how you climb it, looks like some people climb the crack pretty face on while I just used the crack for my right hand and right foot. perfectly fine with 4 pads, took a fall when my fingers were about 5mm  from the top and slid down but the pads sort of slip a little and you land on your arse before you feel anything.
 Hope this helps  :)
 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 14, 2012, 01:01:26 pm
Never seen anyone do it like that, did you not feel a bit close to wild thing? Usual way is a step through off the little ramp, leading to a good foothold out on the right, this then sets you up face-on for the top bit (thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on May 14, 2012, 01:26:51 pm
(thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...

yeh thats how i remember it, marginal...  :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on May 14, 2012, 01:35:58 pm
Never seen anyone do it like that, did you not feel a bit close to wild thing? Usual way is a step through off the little ramp, leading to a good foothold out on the right, this then sets you up face-on for the top bit (thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...

this contains beta, bad beta but still beta

yeah thats what I did but instead of thumb down sprags e.t.c i used a gaston in the crack to get stood up on the sort of good foothold/ nipple type thing, left on smeary/edge then my left hand was just pasted holding nothing on the left while i moved my right hand up to a sort of crimp/pinch up in the crack then up. So for the most part your left hand is just there for balance

seen in this video from 3mins onwards
Skyline Session on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/20950672)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on May 14, 2012, 05:36:33 pm
Brilliant spotting at 1.40  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 14, 2012, 07:46:54 pm
Brilliant spotting at 1.40  :2thumbsup:

 :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on May 14, 2012, 08:57:09 pm
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner (http://www.twitter.com/adenseloner)

i was following him,but got bored so ive unfollowed him now  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Slide on May 14, 2012, 11:12:04 pm
 :boxing: Great spotting indeed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 15, 2012, 02:31:41 pm
 Thank fuck for that, I can start again  :popcorn:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2012, 10:07:24 am
Did project line in Muchalls Cave yesterday night. Could only do first move 1 in 5 attempts and then kept dropping last move, but finally nailed it as it was getting colder, but before moisture started condensing on the rock. No idea of grade though, as although it's not my style (steep) it definitely plays to my strengths - reachy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2012, 10:32:50 am
No. See the DSLR Video post!!!! Cut out mid crux!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 16, 2012, 11:33:16 am
No. See the DSLR Video post!!!! Cut out mid crux!

No video, no send. Back around.



Just kidding!  Nice one Chris, might be up your way the the other half this weekend. May try and sneak out for a couple hours of bouldering.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2012, 01:09:00 pm
Holler! You know where we are. I'm busy early Sat morning and lunchtime (I think) , but other than DIY and gardening, mostly free. The new bouldering cave is a lovely spot, even a non-boulderer would love chilling there. And can do the recording!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on May 17, 2012, 01:12:37 pm
yahoo! If the "bastards" do give you an amazing can't refuse offer, refuse it! The Chief beckons...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeh on May 20, 2012, 12:56:17 pm
Finally made it to France for my first Font trip and bagged six 7's despite dodgy elbows, can't wait for more! :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on May 20, 2012, 06:16:07 pm
Good trip!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: b3n99 on May 20, 2012, 06:57:54 pm
First 8a sport route today, H1N1 at Dinas. Went pretty quick too, second go from bottom second session this year and a play for one session last year. Uper happy, good to be back on a rope.

YYFY!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on May 20, 2012, 07:54:24 pm
Nice work ben!!  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 20, 2012, 08:04:45 pm
My first YYFY in a while.... :)
Its not massive, but a project thats been eluding me for a few months...

After two weeks of not climbing due to work, weekend/family/eating commitments and a bought of TomTomFlu - I snuck out to Helsby this evening after getting back to Manchester... Conditions a bit sticky and windless, but my movement felt smooth and sharp.. knees tucking in, body tight to the rock. I warmed up and then stuck the 'V6' low traverse that I've been working for 5 or 6 sessions.. Nice problem, two powerful cross throughs for my beta - It feels more like 7A+ than 7A to me... anyway. Time for a beer :)

Its funny how the body can perform after some time off.. I suspect my stamina would have been rubbish, but I felt really sharp and balanced as I climbed...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on May 21, 2012, 06:42:10 pm
at the gym tonight i managed 200 kg deadlift.1st go i got it off the ground and realised i hadnt got my belt on so started again.i couldnt have done any more.will leave 1 rep max for a few weeks and try a bit more.
not really into how much i can lift but it felt good
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 23, 2012, 01:12:25 pm
Possibly a YYFY but I think not,

I did the line of Phasis down at Bowles on the Crumbly stuff last weekend.
If I did it right, then this is my first 7C, but considering I thought it felt piss easy for the grade, I assume I did it wrong.

Can anyone confirm or deny the sequence?

I did it the same way this chap did it (I have read the comment below, but the guide is pretty vague about the whole thing)
Phasis 7C (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36v8K4hEeSU#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 23, 2012, 04:35:08 pm
Wtf? I climbed every possible variation on that wall when I was a kid. Don't think any were 7C!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 23, 2012, 05:34:13 pm
Sorry just realised I sound like a prize cunt there.

Wasn't belittling your achievement it's just I can't believe people are claiming, naming and grading shit eliminates on Fandango wall which were all done pre 1990.

I hereby retroclaim all of them.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 23, 2012, 05:51:25 pm
It is in the guide at 7C for going up to that pocket without the left hand being higher.
Thats all I can say - as I said, I dont think that what I did is 7C so I'm not bothered by your comments.
I just thought I would try and draw on the wealth of knowledge present around here (I know it is here somewhere  :doubt: )

Here is a picture from the guide

(http://i.imgur.com/RjaQH.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 23, 2012, 07:54:46 pm
I hereby retroclaim all of them.

:D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 23, 2012, 11:58:46 pm
I hereby say jasper overgraded all them problems pre 90's. Tho they prob were much harder with all that American football gear on
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on May 24, 2012, 08:46:04 am
Tho they prob were much harder with all that American football gear on

Very good :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 24, 2012, 12:25:29 pm
It is in the guide at 7C for going up to that pocket without the left hand being higher.
Thats all I can say - as I said, I dont think that what I did is 7C so I'm not bothered by your comments.
I just thought I would try and draw on the wealth of knowledge present around here (I know it is here somewhere  :doubt: )

Here is a picture from the guide


Maybe something's snapped in the last 20 years. More than likely.

Interestingly, I was trying an eliminate using a tiny shit crimp which would be in between lines 43 and 44 on that topo. Has nobody done it? Think this would have been harder than all the other problems mentioned there (as it was the only one I didn't do).

I'm not being helpful at all am I.  :)

I hereby say jasper overgraded all them problems pre 90's. Tho they prob were much harder with all that American football gear on

It was just a t-shirt not pads and a helmet....... you helmet.  :tease:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on May 24, 2012, 08:28:32 pm
Gone from a 34" waist to 30" over 2012, one month ahead of target.

Truly stoked  :)

Still a bit of a chubber though, esp in climbing terms.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: clm on May 24, 2012, 09:26:34 pm
A chubber with a 30 inch waist! Even I'm a 32.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on May 24, 2012, 09:43:40 pm
Gone from a 34" waist to 30" over 2012, one month ahead of target.

Truly stoked  :)

Still a bit of a chubber though, esp in climbing terms.


I presume you mean feet, not inches.... :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on May 24, 2012, 09:55:35 pm
Yeah....

C'mon.. I'm proud of this!

Still a way to go mind.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 24, 2012, 11:40:20 pm
Good work fella. It's not easy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 25, 2012, 05:57:26 am
Tell me about it, it really is hard work tryna look this good
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 25, 2012, 06:21:03 am
Climbed my project yesterday. Calm like a bomb.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 25, 2012, 09:10:07 am
THE Project?

Great news mate!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 25, 2012, 11:03:16 am
hey Chris!!!
if you mean the roof, no. it'll have to wait until Autumn, to see me finally top out.
it was another project that I thought would have been a quick one, and that instead resisted for six sessions at least.
I have some footage, will post it!
thanks anyway!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 25, 2012, 11:33:41 am
Nice one anyway. Bet it's brick hard regardless.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: horn on May 26, 2012, 01:40:10 pm
Asked spazlegs to marry me!!!!!!!! She said yes!!!!!!!!!!!  :) ;D :great: :wub:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on May 26, 2012, 07:20:28 pm
 Congrats! Nice day for it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on May 26, 2012, 09:28:43 pm
Repeated abbeydale out of sheff in big ring.. Easy.

Did chesser to sheff, via Unstone ( top gear on hill) to Dronfield woodhouse then norton in big ring.

And this is meant to be a MTB year!

 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 30, 2012, 11:43:09 am
Did two of the best cracks in Scotland this weekend:

Whispering Crack at Rubha Hunish - was a bit nervous about this as the line is epic, but it all went smoothly....amazing route, like 5 gritstone HVSes stacked on top of each other, best route I've done this year.

Pump Up The Jam at....beneath the Cuillin - also a bit nervous about this as I was totally syked but there was no way I was having it as a project with the 1.5 hour slog-in. Walked in in my underpants (I now have burnt thighs), spent an hour brushing, chalking, and visualising it, had a power-nap, got woken by a deer barking (noisy buggers), did some deep breathing, and crushed it first go. Walked out in my underpants and went skinny dipping in the half-way stream.

(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/538185_406350962736415_100000845457191_1174505_918553119_n.jpg)

 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 30, 2012, 12:38:56 pm
Did two of the best cracks in Scotland this weekend:

Whispering Crack at Rubha Hunish - was a bit nervous about this as the line is epic, but it all went smoothly....amazing route, like 5 gritstone HVSes stacked on top of each other, best route I've done this year.

Pump Up The Jam at....beneath the Cuillin - also a bit nervous about this as I was totally syked but there was no way I was having it as a project with the 1.5 hour slog-in. Walked in in my underpants (I now have burnt thighs), spent an hour brushing, chalking, and visualising it, had a power-nap, got woken by a deer barking (noisy buggers), did some deep breathing, and crushed it first go. Walked out in my underpants and went skinny dipping in the half-way stream.

(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/538185_406350962736415_100000845457191_1174505_918553119_n.jpg)

 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:

Good work Mat!  PUtJ is such a classic!  Taped up or naked?

Need to get to Rubha Hunish soon...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 30, 2012, 01:53:58 pm
Naked. Was tempted to do it actually naked but it was a wee bit midgy around there. Got a few minor scratches, the inside of the crack is pretty smooth. It's pretty easy really, but lovely jamming.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on May 30, 2012, 04:44:38 pm
Do I spy crack tickmarks?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 30, 2012, 04:49:31 pm
Loads! I ticked every good jam on both sides of the crack, and was going to mark the foot-jams too but they were pretty obvious - wasn't going to muff it by spending ages wiggling in the wrong jam. It would be quite interesting to "onsight" it by chucking your pads on the finishing boulders, not looking at the crack and starting at the far end.

I thoroughly brushed them off afterwards.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 30, 2012, 06:11:51 pm
It would be quite interesting to "onsight" it by chucking your pads on the finishing boulders, not looking at the crack and starting at the far end.


That's what I did!

And fell of about 3 moves in...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 30, 2012, 11:01:54 pm
Walked out in my underpants and went skinny dipping in the half-way stream.

Any video of the pants walking or skinny dipping?

Photos?

It'd be good to have a whole new angle to picking on Fiend to help me feel better about being a million mile away from having a weekend as good as his

Nice one Fiendy boy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 31, 2012, 11:18:43 am
Any video of the pants walking or skinny dipping?
Photos?
Sorry no. That's pants and stockings of course. I took them off for bathing.

Quote
It'd be good to have a whole new angle to picking on Fiend to help me feel better about being a million mile away from having a weekend as good as his
Not quite a new angle but this might help??

Pump Up The Jam, Skye on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/43146342)

 :wall: :punk:

Hope you're continuing to heal well and can get active soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 31, 2012, 11:45:03 am
Strong fiend.

Trying to figure out the forces on that rock causing the crack to form, will if be an offwidth in a thousand or so years?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 31, 2012, 12:46:48 pm
WTF does V4++ mean?

I guess it's hard to grade jam cracks and I haven't been on it in years, so can't comment. Other than it was originally given V6/Font7A.

I guess it's like most things involving jams, seems OK if you can jam, and desperate if you can't!  Great problem though!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 31, 2012, 12:56:22 pm
sound track?

I thought your camera was just picking up its own noise
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 31, 2012, 01:39:17 pm
 :tease:

V4++ is somewhere between V4+ and V5-, obviously  :chair:

It's not any harder, despite the guide's dramatic description. Very jamming-specific, but then so is The File etc. If you had huge hands it would be harder....small hands would be fine as there's lots of tighter bits.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on May 31, 2012, 02:18:33 pm
Excellent video!  Loved the soundtrack, I can imagine it going through your head as you climbed. Beats the Wallace and Gromit theme tune that normally seems to go round in my head as I climb...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on May 31, 2012, 02:31:07 pm
What a great looking problem & vid. Just out of interest is all that shit flying about at the end... midges?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 31, 2012, 05:14:34 pm
Mostly chalk I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on May 31, 2012, 10:32:33 pm
7B hattrick at the Tor tonight... Me and my wing-man had the bouldering to ourselves  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on June 01, 2012, 09:09:06 pm
Nice one pal, good skills. You had it to yourself cos its shit :tease:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on June 02, 2012, 09:26:25 pm
Modest punter chuffing yyfy, but what the hell: Smoke On The Water at Nassereith in Austria today, my first 6c onsight this century (and third ever iirc)

Had to remind myself the whole way that the original title of the song is not in fact "Smoke on't Watter" (which I'm reasonably sure I also did at some point Back In The Day)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on June 02, 2012, 09:55:00 pm
Modest punter chuffing yyfy, but what the hell: Smoke On The Water at Nassereith in Austria today, my first 6c onsight this century (and third ever iirc)

Nice one!

Did my first and second 6C+s today, both at Minus Ten. When I set a target to do a 7A this year it felt improbable, now it seems only injury can stop me.  :dance1:

Kinda pales into insignificance compared to the guy who did Quent's Dyno on his third go, though- his previous bouldering PB was 6B!  :blink:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on June 02, 2012, 09:59:25 pm
if its the 6C+ from the same start as lucian's then that it is a great problem, nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 02, 2012, 10:30:23 pm
Modest punter chuffing yyfy, but what the hell: Smoke On The Water at Nassereith in Austria today, my first 6c onsight this century (and third ever iirc)

Nice one!

Did my first and second 6C+s today, both at Minus Ten. When I set a target to do a 7A this year it felt improbable, now it seems only injury can stop me.  :dance1:

Kinda pales into insignificance compared to the guy who did Quent's Dyno on his third go, though- his previous bouldering PB was 6B!  :blink:

If you're sending 6c+ on the lime only a matter of time before you do a 7a on grit word.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on June 02, 2012, 10:59:59 pm
if its the 6C+ from the same start as lucian's then that it is a great problem, nice one

Cheers! Yep, problem 14 in the current Vertebrate guide. The other one was the wall traverse, ie. hands below the middle break.

If you're sending 6c+ on the lime only a matter of time before you do a 7a on grit word.


6C on grit would be nice! I find it much harder than lime for some reason.  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 02, 2012, 11:02:03 pm
Cheque-that's why dyno grades don't mean anything. Quents isn't 7b it's just a big jump, same with kriton dyno, young Americans et al
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on June 04, 2012, 09:12:29 am
Cheque-that's why dyno grades don't mean anything. Quents isn't 7b it's just a big jump, same with kriton dyno, young Americans et al


the dense one speaks the truth,im shite house on lime and i think i did all the stoney dynos in a day.went home feeling a hero until i actually thought about it and they pretty much just  good hold to good  hold.some dynos though do require a bit of technique.cant think of one now
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: scooby doo on June 04, 2012, 04:43:16 pm
Sousis D'air at Saint Germain in font? Some technique required! Where is 'kriton' dyno?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 04, 2012, 07:35:19 pm
It's a dyslexic kirton dyno. iPad annoying auto correct
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tommy on June 04, 2012, 09:01:26 pm
Strong fiend.

Trying to figure out the forces on that rock causing the crack to form, will if be an offwidth in a thousand or so years?

Yes Fiend, yes. You've made my day putting that video up. I've always wondered what it looked like. I never ever click on the "boulder" section on UKB, but something just told me I had to do it today. Weird.

Get a car jack on it and some dynamite.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on June 05, 2012, 12:27:26 am
Scraped my way up Tourniquet at Little Font, Kentmere today. I know it's had recent hold breakage but still YYFY!!! Amazing problem, best I've climbed.  :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on June 05, 2012, 08:44:15 am
I'd hardly say scraped. More like 'ambled making it look path like'  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on June 05, 2012, 06:19:26 pm
Scraped my way up Tourniquet at Little Font, Kentmere today. I know it's had recent hold breakage but still YYFY!!! Amazing problem, best I've climbed.  :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:

Nice one. What is the thoughts on this gradewise now? 7c+?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on June 05, 2012, 06:24:04 pm
Scraped my way up Tourniquet at Little Font, Kentmere today. I know it's had recent hold breakage but still YYFY!!! Amazing problem, best I've climbed.  :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:

Nice one. What is the thoughts on this gradewise now? 7c+?

Not sure, it's definitely the hardest problem I've done, Greg says 7C+, I'd say hard 7C+ maybe soft 8A, can't really comment as I haven't done many at that grade.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on June 05, 2012, 09:35:38 pm
Led my first 7a today- Consenting Adults at Malham. (http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/holidays-and-party/party-012.gif)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 06, 2012, 10:51:09 am
This weekend...

Monkey Man @ Sheigra....after 3 days worrying about how I'd get it done with regards fitness, warming up, rock conditions etc etc (yay isn't it awesome being a permanently syked and permanently scared trad climber lolz). Hardest trad route this year, not a very big number....but it is overall harder than Unleash The Beast @ Ardmair and Big Country Dreams @ Cambusbarron, for example... Spent so long in the undercling jam rest my hands are pretty mangled but satisfying war wounds   :strongbench:

11 stone 12 pounds this morning. Maybe due to fingernail and skin loss! Need to keep training now it's raining... :chair:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 06, 2012, 07:55:52 pm
Today has been a monumental day for me! (Indirectly, but still great!)

My mrs has got a job up here in Cumbria (In a weird twist of fate, the one I left to start my own business a few months back) and we have also just secured a house together in Threlkeld, just outside Keswick! How's that for life changing!! YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on June 08, 2012, 12:59:39 pm
Spotted a total B-list celeb last night. Anne Hegerty aka 'The Governess' from the quiz show 'The Chase' was having a quiet drink in Hardy's Well in Manchester last night. Haha, amazing.

(http://www.bradleywalsh.co.uk/images/the-chase-celebrity-anne-hegerty.png)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on June 08, 2012, 02:48:12 pm
You need to stay in more.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2012, 03:13:13 pm
Spotted a total B-list celeb last night. Anne Hegerty aka 'The Governess' from the quiz show 'The Chase' was having a quiet drink in Hardy's Well in Manchester last night. Haha, amazing.

Fair enough spotting a B/C list celeb... but why is that a YYFY??? ;)
Did you jump up from your seat and point? Run over and fawn, with jaw on floor, all over her?


 Maybe Stallioni has a point ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on June 10, 2012, 09:19:51 am
First 7C+ today, though I think my height made the reachy crux more 7B/+ ish. Still,  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on June 11, 2012, 11:38:07 am
Spotted a total B-list celeb last night. Anne Hegerty aka 'The Governess' from the quiz show 'The Chase' was having a quiet drink in Hardy's Well in Manchester last night. Haha, amazing.

Fair enough spotting a B/C list celeb... but why is that a YYFY??? ;)
Did you jump up from your seat and point? Run over and fawn, with jaw on floor, all over her?


 Maybe Stallioni has a point ;)

No I just sat there. It was a small highlight of my week. Not sure why I found it so funny in hindsight. Maybe it should have been a NNFN. "My life has descended into spotting sub-par daytime tv celebs in my local boozer. Maybe i should stay in more. ;-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 11, 2012, 02:09:06 pm
Spotted a total B-list celeb last night. Anne Hegerty aka 'The Governess' from the quiz show 'The Chase' was having a quiet drink in Hardy's Well in Manchester last night. Haha, amazing.

Fair enough spotting a B/C list celeb... but why is that a YYFY??? ;)
Did you jump up from your seat and point? Run over and fawn, with jaw on floor, all over her?


 Maybe Stallioni has a point ;)

No I just sat there. It was a small highlight of my week. Not sure why I found it so funny in hindsight. Maybe it should have been a NNFN. "My life has descended into spotting sub-par daytime tv celebs in my local boozer. Maybe i should stay in more. ;-)

Forgive my cheekines earlier ;) My Pub celeb 'meetings'/stalkings :) (in no particular order)

Saying hello (along with about 10 other people) to Anna Friel in the Skyrack,
A chunk of the Emmerdale cast used to regularly drink in our local boozer when I lived in Horsforth,
Bumping into Paul Ince and Ryan Giggs in the Hacienda,
Watching Stan Collymore fend off women in a pub in Wolves (he had about 5 come up to him with phone numbers whilst we were stood next to him for 30 min)..
Hilarious blanking/ignroring of Bruno Brookes (who was fishing for Celeb being noticedness) in All Bar one Leeds,
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 11, 2012, 02:27:57 pm
4th weekend a row in North West Scotland. This time I headed up to Reiff...

Headstrong - after a huge tantrum resting on Sonique (god I really do suck at this super-steep trad bollox), Headstrong went totally smoothly, and despite being a grade over had some great climbing, the moves to, onto, and above the rest ledge being some of the best I've done recently.

Headlong - the next day I was just aiming for a mileage day around Golden Walls (lovely) and Leaning Block, but had seen that the Aberdeen old skool gnarlers had done this the other weekend and....well it was chalked up, the tide was out, I was warmed up, I had to try it. Again it went pretty fine after the "kick in the bawbag" starting moves, really nice to do the easiest line up a big sheer face.

Feeling a bit less like a total fucking bumbly now :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 11, 2012, 03:30:36 pm
Saying hello (along with about 10 other people) to Anna Friel in the Skyrack,
A chunk of the Emmerdale cast used to regularly drink in our local boozer when I lived in Horsforth,
Bumping into Paul Ince and Ryan Giggs in the Hacienda,
Watching Stan Collymore fend off women in a pub in Wolves (he had about 5 come up to him with phone numbers whilst we were stood next to him for 30 min)..
Hilarious blanking/ignroring of Bruno Brookes (who was fishing for Celeb being noticedness) in All Bar one Leeds,

Let's not start this......

(unless you have been waterskiing with 3/4 of Boney M you haven't lived)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 11, 2012, 03:35:02 pm
Saying hello (along with about 10 other people) to Anna Friel in the Skyrack,
A chunk of the Emmerdale cast used to regularly drink in our local boozer when I lived in Horsforth,
Bumping into Paul Ince and Ryan Giggs in the Hacienda,
Watching Stan Collymore fend off women in a pub in Wolves (he had about 5 come up to him with phone numbers whilst we were stood next to him for 30 min)..
Hilarious blanking/ignroring of Bruno Brookes (who was fishing for Celeb being noticedness) in All Bar one Leeds,

Let's not start this......

(unless you have been waterskiing with 3/4 of Boney M you haven't lived)

The top 3/4 or bottom 3/4?... OK. Bad TT. I'll stop now ;) Sorry Fiend - good effort Sir.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: subseasniper on June 12, 2012, 08:53:31 am
After a month of effort and 50+ attempts I finally completed my first serious boulder problem.

No idea what grade it is, no other bugger boulders up here so all the problems I climb are found, cleaned and figured out by little old me.

Anyway, it's called Lonely Soul and I am pretty proud of it, took a lot of effort and commitment and now I am well and truly bitten by the bouldering bug.

Get in.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 12, 2012, 09:06:29 am
Wick's finest bloc?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 12, 2012, 09:09:48 am
I'd like to see some pics etc. Keep threatening to head up your way for some surfing, and nice to know what there is about.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 12, 2012, 09:15:49 am
Not sure what is recorded but apart from the good trad which you know about, the South Head of Wick has a lot of potential for playing around on crimpy walls with flat landings. Easy access, child friendly once you're there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: subseasniper on June 12, 2012, 10:37:07 am
Check

http://www.flickr.com/photos/subseasniper/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/subseasniper/)

I got a vid, albeit filmed on my Blackberry stuck in my shoe but it gives you an idea.

There are plenty of photos of the climbing at South Head.

Total playground, just don't all rush up at once as I usually have the place to myself  ;)

Seriously though, I have been climbing here a lot and would defo get a semi if someone experience came up and actually graded the stuff I am climbing, I have literally no idea if I suck or if I am doing okay.

Word.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: subseasniper on June 12, 2012, 10:38:26 am
And yes, the surfing is awesome.

Wick for climbing, Thurso for surfing, I believe Thurso East is rated one of the top five breaks in the world.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 12, 2012, 11:27:49 am
The quality of the surf is pretty well known, but top 5 might be pushing it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: subseasniper on June 12, 2012, 11:53:22 am
Well, this was a claim forwarded by a local newspaper whose journalistic integrity is, I am sure, beyond reproach.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 12, 2012, 12:07:11 pm
The Wick Gazeteer is probably more reliable than the Daily Mail or most tabloids.

Do you not know any climbers in the area? There is a guy on UKC who is based Bettyhill way. Get in touch with IanT and see if he knows anyone, he seems to have a finger on the pulse for goings on in the NW. Might be worth making a trip down Ullapool way to get on some documented problems to see how you are getting on by comparison.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: subseasniper on June 12, 2012, 12:09:43 pm
Yeah, I need to get on established problems pretty badly. I am in Inverness for a few days at the end of June and may try and go to the Tom Riach boulder for a session. It has problems up to V6.

Any idea of gradings for 'Lonely Soul'?

The video probably doesn't reveal too much, I can post some pics of the holds if that would help.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 12, 2012, 12:22:55 pm
I wouldn't bother with Tom Riach tbh. It's an OK spot, but the rock is very odd and specific and is often dirty, damp and covered in leaves. Brin or the Ruthven Stone would probably be a better option, can't think what else there is around, where's richieb when you need him.

Can't see vid, and impossible to tell how hard from looking at a vid anyway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: subseasniper on June 12, 2012, 12:34:34 pm
Thanks for the topo, been checking them out online, look nice.

Hell, if anyone fancies braving the journey up north take a pair of shoes and chalkbag and we can hook up, I have access to plenty of pads.

I would be delighted to see more boulderers up here (I have a few mates who are semi into it but usually cant get out of bed before 10am to come out)

Thanks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on June 12, 2012, 05:47:11 pm
Yeah, I need to get on established problems pretty badly. I am in Inverness for a few days at the end of June and may try and go to the Tom Riach boulder for a session. It has problems up to V6.

Any idea of gradings for 'Lonely Soul'?

The video probably doesn't reveal too much, I can post some pics of the holds if that would help.

B3 until somebody repeats it.  :2thumbsup:

The joy of solitude......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 12, 2012, 08:40:40 pm
Ruthven is the bizzle. Some grades are wrong there but overall it would be a good benchmark.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 19, 2012, 12:47:04 pm
5th dry weekend in a row in North West Scotland...

American Vampired @ Neist, Woman Of The Eighties @ Staffin, Mother's Pride @ Elgol ... *SYKED*  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 20, 2012, 01:23:51 pm
I had my Viva yesterday: Minor corrections. It felt like the biggest YYFY in a long time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ShortRound on June 20, 2012, 02:02:16 pm
I had my Viva yesterday: Minor corrections. It felt like the biggest YYFY in a long time.

Nice one.

We went to the same secondary school (Stalker Alert) so good to hear you're doing well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 20, 2012, 02:12:48 pm
I had my Viva yesterday: Minor corrections. It felt like the biggest YYFY in a long time.

Huge congratulations Paul. Feels good doesn't it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 20, 2012, 02:18:18 pm
I had my Viva yesterday: Minor corrections. It felt like the biggest YYFY in a long time.

Well done Paul - its always nerve racking no matter how good the thesis is! so great stuff.

And breathe... ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 20, 2012, 03:26:23 pm
We went to the same secondary school (Stalker Alert) so good to hear you're doing well.

Do I know you then or is there a bit of an age gap (either way)?

Huge congratulations Paul. Feels good doesn't it.

Absolutely. However, I'm feeling a little lost as I haven't got anything lined up currently (industry job or research related) and everything from the Thesis has either been publish or has been submitted. I'll stick to being a domestic goddess for a while I think.

Well done Paul - its always nerve racking no matter how good the thesis is! so great stuff.

Cheers, I had a mock on Fri and my co-supervisor tore me apart on the very basics behind the work. That didn't feel good and I wasn't overly confident until I'd read through it a few more times, answered a list of question I'd found and convinced myself that it wasn't utter rubbish.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ShortRound on June 20, 2012, 03:58:59 pm


We went to the same secondary school (Stalker Alert) so good to hear you're doing well.

Do I know you then or is there a bit of an age gap (either way)?


Possibly, I'll send you a PM to stop being so elusive.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 20, 2012, 07:08:22 pm
2 x BW!!!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on June 20, 2012, 10:35:43 pm
2 x BW!!!  :dance1:


Sweet.  :2thumbsup:

That didnt take long !
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 21, 2012, 07:57:04 am
thanks! luckily not, yesterday it was only my second session, but I felt much better straight from the warm up, that took longer than the previous time.
I think my technique was slightly better also, although feet positioning is still tricky. I think it could depend also on the bar height from the ground, we don't have standard plates so I think it was a bit low. when I took my shoes off it seemed to be better.
next time I want to wear high socks though, because I found big help in dragging the bar on my shins to engage more my legs, my shins were a bit painful at the end.
after a rest I tried 2 x BW again, but the bar seemed bolted to the ground!!! talk about 1 max rep!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 21, 2012, 08:12:49 pm
In fact, I think my technique has been quite good. I feel my body truly worked, but my lower back muscles are fine and not stiff and in pain like the other time. Nice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on June 21, 2012, 09:10:21 pm
In fact, I think my technique has been quite good. I feel my body truly worked, but my lower back muscles are fine and not stiff and in pain like the other time. Nice.

Very Nice!  That's how it should feel - enagagement from your heels through the back of your legs and all the way up your back to your shoulders.  It feels great when its done right.  And nice quick job of 2xBW  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 22, 2012, 01:42:29 pm
Five minutes ago I finished the book I've been writing for the last year ... its a slightly strange feeling at the minute.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 22, 2012, 01:43:26 pm
wow!!!  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: luckyjez on June 22, 2012, 03:30:50 pm
Congrats Andy - fine effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 22, 2012, 04:37:08 pm
Excellent :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 22, 2012, 04:40:26 pm
Hopefully it won't go the same route as TomTom's efforts!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on June 22, 2012, 04:47:59 pm
Five minutes ago I finished the book I've been writing for the last year ... its a slightly strange feeling at the minute.

Fifty Shades Of Gay.  I hate to tell you, but you've been usurped.

Well done anyway!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 22, 2012, 04:51:35 pm
 :tease: Great title! You should write it.

Hopefully it won't go the same route as TomTom's efforts!

No chance, its already available for pre-order. Just as well I finished it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on June 22, 2012, 09:29:06 pm
Just finished my access to HE course. Easily got the grades I need for uni. So So glad its done.  :smartass:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 22, 2012, 09:30:45 pm
Are you going to do some Grimer-style self-publication now then Popp?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on June 24, 2012, 07:49:51 pm
4th visit to the Cave of Justice, Just sent my first 8A - Pit of Hell!! YYFY  :beer2: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 24, 2012, 09:02:22 pm
Effort Peewee.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2012, 06:19:30 am
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on June 26, 2012, 07:53:06 pm
Got married on Saturday. Totally amazing day. I know it is cliche but I feel incredibly lucky to have met my wife! Definitely a keeper. :-) The reception party was great fun, with everyone enjoying themselves. Which was a relief after all the planning. Heading off for a couple days in the Lakes, to do some walking and climbing for a honeymoon. So psyched. Proper YYFY!

Then on Monday I start my new job at a proper engineering company in Manchester. Can't wait to get started and earn a real wage!

Starting to feel like a real man . . .  ;)

If any wants to hire amazing tipis for a party, these guys were excellent. http://www.event-in-a-tent.co.uk/ (http://www.event-in-a-tent.co.uk/)

Also the cake girl made ridiculously tasty cakes! http://www.jenniferoneillcakes.co.uk/ (http://www.jenniferoneillcakes.co.uk/)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on June 26, 2012, 08:53:39 pm
congrats Jamie
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: LucyB on June 26, 2012, 10:31:57 pm
I went climbing on real rock, 5 days in a row and had loads of sleep each night.

(I should post the bit about coming back to the sleepless nights in the NNFN thread  ;))
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 27, 2012, 08:58:22 am
Last night I managed 6x1min jogs on a treadmill at 12 km/hr with 1min walk at 6.5 km/hr  in between. This is way beyond what I was expecting to do this side of Christmas.

The fooked ankle hurt a bit last night (nothing that 400mg vitamin I and 25mg codeine couldn't sort out), but is feeling pretty good today

I failed to auto-belay a Virgin ActiveTM 7a, but this was due to heat and lack of chalk rather than lack of ankle power. Having to wear HUGE climbing shoes may have had some influence.

So; running and something that approximates to climbing. YYFY!

Also been cycling to work.

It's mainly due to the excellent treatment I'm getting at the physio department at the Hallamshire. They've been great at taking my end goals seriously and working towards them. Way better than I expected from the NHS.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on June 27, 2012, 09:10:23 am
Having snapped my A2 left ring finger back in March, I've been managing to climb again!!!
9 weeks fully off with slow and light rehab climbing...now I know what I can do just using front two and I can still climb ok.
Lapped a 7b down in Swanage two weekends ago and on the way back from coaching at YCS final in Ratho stopped off at St. Bees! Firstly, if you haven't been to this place, then you need to, secondly, I could climb on the slopers with no pain and still climb an ok level...not full power by any means, but getting on the rock again feels goooooood!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on June 27, 2012, 09:29:13 am
So; running and something that approximates to climbing. YYFY!

That's great news. I realise they're some way off but I've been missing your vids. Roll on the recovery  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 27, 2012, 09:56:14 am
Last night I managed 6x1min jogs on a treadmill at 12 km/hr with 1min walk at 6.5 km/hr  in between. This is way beyond what I was expecting to do this side of Christmas.

The fooked ankle hurt a bit last night (nothing that 400mg vitamin I and 25mg codeine couldn't sort out), but is feeling pretty good today

I failed to auto-belay a Virgin ActiveTM 7a, but this was due to heat and lack of chalk rather than lack of ankle power. Having to wear HUGE climbing shoes may have had some influence.

So; running and something that approximates to climbing. YYFY!

Also been cycling to work.

It's mainly due to the excellent treatment I'm getting at the physio department at the Hallamshire. They've been great at taking my end goals seriously and working towards them. Way better than I expected from the NHS.

Show off.

I made it to the pub on crutches the other day. Nearly killed me, I got a taxi back.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 27, 2012, 12:59:07 pm
I've been missing your vids. Roll on the recovery 

that will certainly help

thanks  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 27, 2012, 01:04:01 pm
I made it to the pub on crutches the other day. Nearly killed me, I got a taxi back.

it's hard work on crutches when you can't put any weight on the bad foot

it's loads easier when they let you partially weight bear

beer helps
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 27, 2012, 02:07:22 pm
I made it to the pub on crutches the other day. Nearly killed me, I got a taxi back.

it's hard work on crutches when you can't put any weight on the bad foot

Damn straight.

it's loads easier when they let you partially weight bear

I'm hoping that's sooner than the 7 weeks from now prediction.

beer helps

Is it that time already?  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 27, 2012, 06:54:25 pm
bought this micro beauty today!!!
(http://www.panharmonikon.net/images/behringer-micromix-mx-400.jpg)
now I can plug music and bass to the amp and pretend I'm playing well!!!
it's fantastic really to listen to both the music and what you're playing at once!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on July 01, 2012, 01:15:25 am
 ;D  ;D  ;D

Got my first (that I am claiming) 7C!
Bullet at Anston Stones.

Got all the moves on Black Crow too - too tired to send by the end of the session though, one for the future (next weekend?  :bounce:)

YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on July 01, 2012, 10:23:31 am
Nice one Archie.
I assume you'll be downgrading BC when you do it, for Omar's sake?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on July 01, 2012, 01:32:18 pm
You know the rules - If I can do it, it isn't the grade it has been given.

 :smart:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 03, 2012, 04:25:29 pm
Just did a one armer holding the baby in the other arm (according to his nappies he weighs between 7 and 14 kilo's). Got quite bollocked for being an irresponsible parent...


...totally worth it though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on July 03, 2012, 04:38:34 pm
...totally worth it though.

Totally. 

Combines ukb perennials FWATS (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8014.0.html), legendary feats of strength (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19023.0.html) and a solution to the Eva Lopez conundrum (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20341.msg367830.html#msg367830) in a single post. 

Keep it up, the opportunity to be climbing's Milo of Croton (http://www.gymless.com/_blog/Gymless_Training_Blog/post/What_can_you_learn_from_Milo_of_Croton/) presents itself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 03, 2012, 05:00:51 pm

Combines ukb perennials FWATS (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8014.0.html), legendary feats of strength (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19023.0.html) and a solution to the Eva Lopez conundrum (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20341.msg367830.html#msg367830) in a single post. 


...and gooDADvice (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13237.0.html).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on July 03, 2012, 05:05:06 pm
...and gooDADvice (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13237.0.html).

 :slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 03, 2012, 05:07:11 pm
Just sent the wife upstairs to get ready as she's going out tonight...




...and did it on the other arm.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on July 03, 2012, 05:38:20 pm
I can't see what is irresponsible about that! It's not like you were free soloing with the young one in a backpack or anything. Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 03, 2012, 05:48:50 pm
You'll have to keep it up as they grow.  :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 03, 2012, 06:06:08 pm
Oddly enough I found out last night that I can still do a one arm lock off on both arms after not doing much but run for a few months. Probably because I'm 7kg lighter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: standard on July 03, 2012, 06:40:15 pm
I climbed Taylor Made at Dinas on the weekend for my first 7C.

Extremely surprising since :
1) I regard myself a sport climber.
2) I rarely boulder outside, with previous best being 6C.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on July 03, 2012, 11:17:44 pm
Start bouldering then mate!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on July 04, 2012, 03:52:22 pm
Not climbing related, but hey, none of my YYFY will be climbing related if I don't get out climbing! But.....

Submitted invoice number: 1 on Monday for a walling job I did. Then get a phone call on Tuesday from the same people wanting me back to do more work for them. Result.

Also, watched my mrs carry the olympic torch this morning! It was great!  :popcorn:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joe dobson on July 05, 2012, 03:25:43 pm
Sent my first V10 at trowbarrow, well psyched!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 05, 2012, 03:34:49 pm
yesterday, for a brief instant, probably coinciding with the CERN collision that revealed the Higg's Boson, I managed to one arm hang the BM mono, middle finger.
it's a new beginning.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 05, 2012, 03:43:09 pm
Sent my first V10 at trowbarrow, well psyched!!

Well done!  What was it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joe dobson on July 05, 2012, 03:54:48 pm
cheers, it was Wheelbarrow. Found it rather hard coming across from the crimp down into the groove, awesome problem though!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on July 05, 2012, 05:25:36 pm
yesterday, for a brief instant, probably coinciding with the CERN collision that revealed the Higg's Boson, I managed to one arm hang the BM mono, middle finger.
it's a new beginning.

Fuck yeay  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on July 05, 2012, 05:34:34 pm
Sent my first V10 at trowbarrow, well psyched!!

Good effort, especially given the current awful weather, great timing to manage your first anything (except maybe kayaking down a street)  :)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tregiffian on July 05, 2012, 05:48:33 pm
Unsolicited tax rebate for her indoors - miracle.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joe dobson on July 05, 2012, 07:06:19 pm
Cheers! Yeah I live in Preston so know the south lakes very well and normally know somethings dry, woke up this morning and saw blue sky so knew lines like the pit, groove, virtrurivan, ironman, pacman will be dry as they get the sun!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on July 13, 2012, 11:58:07 pm
Sent a project yesterday which I had been working on and off for the last 12 years! (which of course was followed by a really good beer) :icon_beerchug:

Also stuck the crux move on another project twice, and even managed to link from that move to the end.  In ten years I've only stuck the crux move by itself once.  Psyche is HIGH.

 ;D

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 14, 2012, 09:22:35 am
Sent a project yesterday which I had been working on and off for the last 12 years! (which of course was followed by a really good beer) :icon_beerchug:

Also stuck the crux move on another project twice, and even managed to link from that move to the end.  In ten years I've only stuck the crux move by itself once.  Psyche is HIGH.

 ;D
Fantastic!!!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 14, 2012, 11:11:23 am
The topo is to be within the forthcoming BMC Cheshire guide, but I'm not sure when it'll be done.  Until then, it's easy to find...

I've just been sent a pdf of the complete and finished Cheshire guide - its looking good. One quick final proof and we'll be pressing print.

Coincidentally the proofs of my own book arrived last night so I'm going to be keeping busy...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 14, 2012, 12:00:35 pm
Nice work Andy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 14, 2012, 12:01:24 pm
Brilliant! looking forward to it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 14, 2012, 02:59:32 pm
You're in it Tom.

There are even two shots of the mighty Dunne-y.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 14, 2012, 03:17:25 pm
You're in it Tom.

Punter alert! Trivia Q, I wonder who's mug/back/arse has appeared in the most guides?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BenF on July 15, 2012, 09:24:34 pm
Like Andy, I'm also really chuffed with how the cheshire guide looks (I can't comment on Andy's book, and anyway I doubt I'd understand it but good work Andy).  Sent Niall a few more changes, but we're so nearly there now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on July 15, 2012, 09:29:11 pm
YYFS!

Me and the Mrs have finally got the keys to our house! On the property ladder!  ;D

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Somebody's Fool on July 16, 2012, 08:01:32 am
You're in it Tom.

Punter alert! Trivia Q, I wonder who's mug/back/arse has appeared in the most guides?

My money would be on Colin Binks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on July 16, 2012, 08:01:54 am
Quote from: Popplegend
I've just been sent a pdf of the complete and finished Cheshire guide - its looking good. One quick final proof and we'll be pressing print.

YYFY!! Can't wait for this  :2thumbsup:

In other news, I managed a short session at Caley with the wife yesterday, YYFY! First time climbing in 7 weeks!

Unfortunately I'm now paying for it with lots of elbow pain, NNFN...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2012, 09:21:45 am
YYFS!

Me and the Mrs have finally got the keys to our house! On the property ladder!  ;D

YYFS = ?

Anyway, nice one. Knowing you it's more a bachar ladder.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: subseasniper on July 16, 2012, 09:30:34 am
Had an epiphany moment. Was in Leeds visiting relatives and went for a walk up Ilkley Moor. Never been near gritstone in my life, wandered past the New Statesman and then scoped out the Cow and Calf.

Wow, you gritstone guys are so lucky, the holds are mega grippy and non-rippy. Unfortunately weather was crap but I will be back next year with my shoes and pad.

On a different note, a totall YYFY moment. Went out for a wee sesh at South Head, Wick, couple days ago when a weather window presented itself. Hit my (to date) hardest problem, Lonely Soul, that I have managed to complete only twice in near a hundred attempts. I blasted up it four times in a row. Weird how taking a week out, eating curry and cakes and not going near the beastmaker can somehow make you stronger.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 16, 2012, 09:36:37 am
Wow, you gritstone guys are so lucky, the holds are mega grippy and non-rippy.

Presumably you didn't try pulling on any jams?

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3522/3806720335_461e4f278f_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/3806720335/)
Mauled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/3806720335/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DaveC on July 27, 2012, 12:18:08 pm
Scan today shows I'm completely free of the psoriatic arthritis that's been fucking me up for 4 years + now. Hips and spine don't ache in the morning, fingers are all working the way they are supposed to - YYFY indeed! Now It's time to get a finger board up to try and recover at least a bit strength in these poor old digits.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2012, 12:57:43 pm
Now It's time to get a finger board up to try not to injure these poor old digits.

Fixed.

Good man. get back on it. But don't go mental.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 29, 2012, 09:05:10 am
At Schipol airport waiting for a flight to Lima.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 29, 2012, 10:53:15 am
Good luck!
From "in Costa, in Exeter, watching the rain fall and waiting to go to the Quay...."

Swap?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 29, 2012, 02:31:55 pm
At Schipol airport waiting for a flight to Lima.

Give it beans!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on July 30, 2012, 11:37:13 am
Two YYFS

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/270116/ (http://www.pinkbike.com/video/270116/)

I learnt to jump!

And I beat my time to work by nearly 30seconds !!

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on July 30, 2012, 06:48:29 pm
tipped the scales at 100kg today,think another 5 kg will do.any more than that and it will be too hard to loose when i move on to something else
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 30, 2012, 06:54:47 pm
Posing pics please.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 30, 2012, 07:57:45 pm
After six months of being in limbo and personal turmoil I got the keys to new place in London today.  New start, new chapter, new beginnings....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on July 30, 2012, 08:21:42 pm
Good luck dude
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 30, 2012, 08:27:29 pm
Positive thoughts and positive thinking Ben. Good luck.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 30, 2012, 08:29:15 pm
Five undistinguished damp oranges at Rocher d'Avon. Can't decide if its YYFY because I actually touched rock or NNFN that things have got to such a parlous state that said five oranges might constitute a YYFY?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 30, 2012, 08:46:17 pm
After six months of being in limbo and personal turmoil I got the keys to new place in London today.  New start, new chapter, new beginnings....

And a new bike! Hope it goes well Ben.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on July 30, 2012, 09:52:05 pm
Nice one Ben glad you are getting sorted, where's the crib? Give me a shout next time you are up North.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 31, 2012, 07:55:53 am
Life in the Big City! Good luck FD. I can put you in touch with some keen surfers who will want to make weekend trips west if you fancy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 31, 2012, 10:24:44 am
Thanks all.  PM for address if you're in town or need a place to crash.  I'm just by queens park/Maida vale on the Westside.

B
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 31, 2012, 10:26:52 am
Look forward to watching your clothing get steadily more ridiculous. Have you considered a moustache yet?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on July 31, 2012, 10:35:31 am
Today ridicule, tomorrow really-cool.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gcarmichael on August 07, 2012, 02:50:02 pm
Staminaband 8A on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/47082715)

At last! Over 20 times falling off last move, first font 8A - PSYCHED! :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on August 10, 2012, 10:47:35 pm
finally moved in to my new place after a shit break up from long term fiance and now happy again, plus one mate came third in the bbcs, one bouldered 8B and just generally motivated again because all of the hard work and training is paying off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on August 11, 2012, 03:32:34 pm
I just did the jump from the 1 meter platform on the kids slide onto a single pad. Stayed on my feet after impact.

This beats my previous best of 75cm

The neighbours were giving me funny looks as I worked up to it; they must have scurried inside when I let out my triumphant yell.

Ankle feeling OK

Might do a few more after looking out the attic window to see that MASSIVE poster of Jess on the side of the library again

Buzzing  :bounce:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on August 12, 2012, 06:41:44 pm
a none bouldering related yyfy i did a running race called the cranham beast today which was 15.2 miles off road up and down hills, through streams and plenty of nettles. well i thought completing the course would be an achievement but i surprised myself and came sixth overall. ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 17, 2012, 03:53:08 pm
I can walk.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on August 17, 2012, 03:54:53 pm
So can I, big woop.  ;)

Congratulations, how long before climbing occurs?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 17, 2012, 04:00:02 pm
I can walk.

walkings so - like, so last year...

(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/212/513584165_c37a84c39c.jpg)

Good news :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 17, 2012, 04:33:04 pm
So can I, big woop.  ;)

Congratulations, how long before climbing occurs?

No idea but the big YYFY is that it definitely will at some point in the future.

My heel has been rebuilt with a plate and more than ten screws but the x-rays showed that the bone has healed really well. It's going to hurt a lot but I'll get there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 17, 2012, 04:46:13 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tregiffian on August 17, 2012, 05:00:25 pm
Sort of been there.  It will hurt a lot but you will get there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 17, 2012, 09:36:50 pm
I can walk.

Get down there with Largers and see who can be the first to jump from 1.1 meters...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 17, 2012, 09:48:34 pm
What on Earth did you do to it in the first place??

P.S. Glad you're healing up you fat cunt. Good luck with regaining mobility and fitness.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on August 17, 2012, 10:46:33 pm
I can walk.

Get down there with Largers and see who can be the first to jump from 1.1 meters...

everyone's a comedian nowadays
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 19, 2012, 10:31:48 am
What on Earth did you do to it in the first place??


See my profile picture? My foot slipped as I was topping that out....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 21, 2012, 02:58:57 pm
I never though I'd witness something like this in Italy. Hottest day of the hottest summer, Florence is the hottest city in Italy. 44 humid degrees in the shade, 50.5 in full sun. You've got to experience it to believe it, it's like breathing in boiling water.
Why a YYFY?
Because it was yesterday!!!
A few more days and then it should be over.
Just 43 today, the weights session will feel like a breeze.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2012, 03:05:41 pm
Has Betty Swollocks taken up residence?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 21, 2012, 03:13:47 pm
 ;D
I had to search urbandictionary for that but you made me LOL in the bus.
Anyway yes, she's my faithful companion for many weeks now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joe dobson on August 22, 2012, 05:02:40 pm
Managed to do my first 8A today! After 9 sessions finally managed to climb Iron Man  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2012, 05:07:23 pm
Managed to do my first 8A today! After 9 sessions finally managed to climb Iron Man  :)

Nice one :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: biscuit on August 22, 2012, 06:19:18 pm

Just 43 today, the weights session will feel like a breeze.

Hats off to you. You may have to look that one up too.

 I am using the heat as an excuse to not do as much as i should. High 30's in the shade here and that's more than enough thanks. I have been running in the dark as that's the only time it's cool enough. It's dark until 7.30 am and then by 8 it's hot. Not much time to get stuff done.

I am inspired by your dedication as i can't even be bothered to wipe the sweat from my brow or scratch my betty swollocks as i am too lethargic  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 23, 2012, 03:01:47 am
Managed to do my first 8A today! After 9 sessions finally managed to climb Iron Man  :)

Well done!  I love the feeling of breaking into a new grade.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 23, 2012, 06:25:55 am
Hey Biscuit thank you!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: punkpunk on August 26, 2012, 02:54:19 pm
Good effort on iron man joe, you looked close on monday didn't think it would take you much more.  Cheers for the beta.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on August 26, 2012, 04:12:52 pm
Got my first uk 7a yesterday at malham. Was also my first 7a in session too
YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 26, 2012, 09:05:42 pm
nice one well done, good place to have your first.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on August 26, 2012, 09:16:23 pm
YYFY,

After a 3 hour drive, walking in and finding it sopping wet, drying the problem for about an hour, nursing my split tip, borrowing mats from some nice japanese people that didnt speak any english and warming up...

I finally did Caroline! :bounce:

6 or 7 sessions, wrote it off after the second, then got drawn back to it.

My hardest climb to date by a long way (the other 7C here aren't even remotely close)

Unfortunately, I split open my tip again when I tried to get some photos, so the following days in Cape town will be interesting.

4 days left for the trip.

WOOT  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 27, 2012, 03:09:00 am
First 7C. Or maybe 7B+. Who cares, it's harder than my previous best efforts on the blocs. YYFY indeed  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on August 27, 2012, 07:07:59 pm
Underhand Extension? If so, you've been hanging around with Caleb too much. Effort beast!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 27, 2012, 11:01:07 pm
Off to Hatun Machay (http://toposperu.wordpress.com/huaraz/hatun-machay/) tomorrow for a days sport-climbing and bouldering. Can't wait, should be nicely acclimitised for climbing at 4200m now.  :bounce:

Looks great....

(http://toposperu.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/pano1.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 28, 2012, 08:19:43 am
Cool. Looks like casle Hill on steroids. But I guess with a bit less polish.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 28, 2012, 10:40:53 am
Underhand Extension? If so, you've been hanging around with Caleb too much. Effort beast!

How dare you accuse me of pulling on that mucky brown stuff  :spank:. I'll have you know it was a slightly pointless eliminate on some featureless limestone. Which has now been downgraded from 7C to 7B+. Officially, by the Guru of the Orme himself. Which still makes it my hardest bloc, and one of the goals for the year achieved  :dance1:. Oh it was the Jack Daniels/Ain't no Party link.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on August 28, 2012, 10:48:15 am
First 7C. Or maybe 7B+. Who cares, it's harder than my previous best efforts on the blocs. YYFY indeed  :2thumbsup:

About time, old man!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 28, 2012, 11:25:25 am
HATUN MACHAY!!! Sooo jealous, I have been wanting to go there for a couple of years. Please find out as much as you can about the logistics as possible and report back, GL HF etc!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 28, 2012, 09:50:39 pm
First 7C. Or maybe 7B+. Who cares, it's harder than my previous best efforts on the blocs. YYFY indeed  :2thumbsup:

About time, old man!

You're not bloody wrong. 7C before the end of the year  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 29, 2012, 05:28:48 am
HATUN MACHAY!!! Sooo jealous, I have been wanting to go there for a couple of years. Please find out as much as you can about the logistics as possible and report back, GL HF etc!

Stunning place, I'll write it up in the wiki, but had a fucking brilliant day there today.  Only regret was I didn't over-night in the refugio and have two days there.

Only did five routes 6a+ to 6b (I'm generally a shit climber  :-[ ), but was pleased to get up all of them without falling off given the altitude and they were all really good quality.  Rock is a sandy limestone (although this may in part be attributable to the large amount of dry lichen as even the routes in the "warm-up" area weren't heavily climbed), heavily featured-pocketed and was a delight to climb on.



One thing though (which isn't really relevant for the wiki) is that you should probably get your circulation sorted prior to visiting as otherwise just pulling on to the rock will kill you.

No slight intended, and I know you're working hard on that front, but it is at 4200m alt. and despite having spent most of the past four weeks >4000m and therefore pretty well acclimiatised I was still breathless and had to climb slowly to get my breath back (and was gasping for air coming out of the wide chimney with off-widthing/laybacking).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on August 29, 2012, 07:33:55 am
HATUN MACHAY!!! Sooo jealous, I have been wanting to go there for a couple of years. Please find out as much as you can about the logistics as possible and report back, GL HF etc!
Stunning place,
Nice one mate get any pictures?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 29, 2012, 12:53:02 pm
Cheers slackers, looking forward to reading more.

Unless there are any major medical breakthroughs soon, I won't ever be getting my circulation sorted, but as previously discussed it's not likely to be a specific problem: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13504.msg242738.html#msg242738 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13504.msg242738.html#msg242738)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 29, 2012, 01:39:25 pm
HATUN MACHAY!!! Sooo jealous, I have been wanting to go there for a couple of years. Please find out as much as you can about the logistics as possible and report back, GL HF etc!
Stunning place,
Nice one mate get any pictures?

Yep lots, but only posting those taken with the phone so far as the rest are shot in RAW (and despite my inane postings in the mornings/evenings as I'm currently solo in Huaraz I'm not spending all day sorting them on spanish M$ computers)....

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8036/7886936030_2a9829f897_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/7886936030/)
Hatun Machay (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/7886936030/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8299/7886924144_288707910b_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/7886924144/)
Hatun Machay (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/7886924144/#) by slack---line (http://www.flickr.com/people/slackline/), on Flickr

Close-ups of some of the buttresses were taken with other cameras.  With only a day I barely scratched the surface.  A must for anyone who is ever in Peru and near Huaraz (Wiki now has details)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 29, 2012, 01:52:06 pm
Looks amazing. Interesting history of the city too having been basically wiped out twice in 1941 and 1970.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 29, 2012, 02:02:14 pm
Looks amazing. Interesting history of the city too having been basically wiped out twice in 1941 and 1970.

Yeah its a nice place, feels safew wandering around on your own at night (at least near the centre).

Bonus is theres the Inkafest VIII (http://www.inkafest.com/) mountain film festival started yesterday.  One of the films they are showing is about a guy who survived the 1970 earthquake (http://www.inkafest.com/2012/p5.htm) further down the road in/near the village of Ancash which was completely wiped out by a landslide from Huscaran.  A few others I wouldn't mind seeing either including Moonflower and Flight of the Frenchies  :2thumbsup:

Anyway getting a bit  :off:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on August 30, 2012, 06:22:38 am
Quote from: slackline
Stunning place, I'll write it up in the wiki, but had a fucking brilliant day there today.  Only regret was I didn't over-night in the refugio and have two days there.

going back again tomorrow :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 30, 2012, 09:08:41 am
Superb! Nice one ---slackers---

Never heard of the place, but it looks amazing...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on September 01, 2012, 10:00:06 pm
sport climbed 7b today which is good for me considering i cant do more than five moves without getting pumped.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 02, 2012, 05:39:45 pm
Fantastic board session today.
Climbed one project and nearly climbed two others, feeling very strong.
And all I needed was a simple...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8170/7914623718_5713e166d5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/7914623718/)
22 degrees (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/7914623718/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
15 degrees drop in the temps...
Meh.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on September 02, 2012, 09:45:53 pm
I knes something was missing in my life, an alarm clock with the temperature on it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2012, 08:35:30 am
No no, it's the fish stencil that did it. Fish stencils were discovered to be a source of unimaginable power by the Romans, and the secret has been passed on via a select few ever since.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 03, 2012, 09:23:05 am
Note the flask of power elixir next to the alarm clock ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 03, 2012, 09:56:13 am
Note the flask of power elixir red wine next to the alarm clock ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 03, 2012, 10:04:49 am
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2012, 10:23:14 am
Note the flask of power elixir next to the alarm clock ;)

That's the lamp with the genie of power in it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 03, 2012, 10:34:07 am
Note the flask of power elixir red wine next to the alarm clock ;)

Same thing innit?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 03, 2012, 03:45:15 pm
Just for completeness, I'm sure you'll be pleased by knowing that I baptized the project I did yesterday "Gin Like Never Before" after a Muddy Waters' song. It seemed apt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on September 03, 2012, 07:22:52 pm
YYFY. Rock Atrocity done 3rd go in one session, 1st 7C and 1st mega classic in Wales, 3rd tick in the Cave. So please and a pretty cool problem  ;D

Orme Bits on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/48750523)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 03, 2012, 08:02:25 pm
That's great! Congratulations!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on September 03, 2012, 11:07:19 pm
cheers! a great end to a mega summer  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 04, 2012, 07:42:29 am
Nice one GritLimelad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 09, 2012, 04:57:14 pm
From NNFN thread:
It's harder but still doable? This should be in YYFY Lore!  ;)
Ahah, I was about to post it there!!!
It will be there when I do it.
Today, that is.
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2012, 09:20:21 pm
Good work fella.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: battery on September 09, 2012, 10:51:11 pm
Totally unexpected, climbed my first font 7a today. Really really chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on September 09, 2012, 11:01:06 pm
looks nails lore, nice one.

Totally unexpected, climbed my first font 7a today. Really really chuffed.

which one was it? great effort
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BB on September 10, 2012, 05:17:21 am
YYFY!

Ticked Travis at Sissy over the weekend. First V7!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andybfreeman on September 10, 2012, 05:50:50 am
YYFY!

Ticked Travis at Sissy over the weekend. First V7!

Good effort, a great looking problem!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: battery on September 10, 2012, 03:27:09 pm

Totally unexpected, climbed my first font 7a today. Really really chuffed.

which one was it? great effort
[/quote]

Cheers. It was Seems Simple Enough at Curbar. Some say its soft, which if you're tall then it probably is but it was a battle for me and I'm really chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gcarmichael on September 10, 2012, 05:49:26 pm
Did my first f8b today - zeke the freak at rubicon :) PSYCHED!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 10, 2012, 07:39:43 pm
 :bow: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 24, 2012, 07:44:13 pm
Less than a year after they last promoted me my university has decided to give me something to sit on, if you know what I mean. Made up!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 24, 2012, 07:45:35 pm
WOW!
Congrats man!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 24, 2012, 07:50:51 pm
Sent a 12 year long project on Friday !!!!!!

My hardest to date!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 24, 2012, 07:55:21 pm
Ahah happiness all around!!!
Beast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 24, 2012, 08:04:57 pm
Less than a year after they last promoted me my university has decided to give me something to sit on, if you know what I mean. Made up!

Congratulations Prof. Popp :) Superb.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 24, 2012, 09:13:49 pm
You've been standing all this time? Effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on September 24, 2012, 09:53:35 pm
Less than a year after they last promoted me my university has decided to give me something to sit on, if you know what I mean. Made up!

 :dance1:

Now, that's an addition to the " you know you are getting old when.... " thread..

When yr uni age cohort has a chair.

Respect.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 25, 2012, 07:24:07 am
Less than a year after they last promoted me my university has decided to give me something to sit on, if you know what I mean. Made up!

 :dance1:

Now, that's an addition to the " you know you are getting old when.... " thread..

When yr uni age cohort has a chair.

Respect.

I don't know, I've left it pretty late compared to a lot of the young whippersnappers nowadays.

True respect to Sasquatch though, that is some projecting and a fine ending.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 25, 2012, 07:42:25 am
Congrats Andy.  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 25, 2012, 11:30:19 am
Less than a year after they last promoted me my university has decided to give me something to sit on, if you know what I mean. Made up!

I think the beard must have clinched it. Nice one.

And good work too Squatch - I missed that. Vid?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 25, 2012, 11:41:43 am
Less than a year after they last promoted me my university has decided to give me something to sit on, if you know what I mean. Made up!

Sent a 12 year long project on Friday !!!!!!

My hardest to date!!!!

Two of the best YYFYs for ages in one day! Nice one lads.  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on September 25, 2012, 11:54:22 am
 :agree:

12 years, that's got to feel good!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on September 25, 2012, 12:01:57 pm
Less than a year after they last promoted me my university has decided to give me something to sit on, if you know what I mean. Made up!

Well done Andy.

Ian Dury/There ain't half been some clever bastards (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPvRsLWlDXw#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 25, 2012, 08:44:45 pm
Thanks All!  Felt really good to finish it.
Blog post will be up soon with details for those who like that stuff. 

And good work too Squatch - I missed that. Vid?
Yes and no.  Iphone battery died.  I should get it posted later tonight.   

Also, Congrats to Andy!!!  That's much bigger and better.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: luckyjez on September 26, 2012, 01:50:49 pm
Fantastic news Andy. Congrats.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 28, 2012, 10:49:05 am
not really bouldering related, but Greggs have got an offer on - two steak bakes for 99p

YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on October 01, 2012, 09:17:53 am
not really bouldering related, but Greggs have got an offer on - two steak bakes for 99p

YYFY!

 :2thumbsup:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 02, 2012, 02:32:27 pm
Just did 3 new probs on a nice wall I discovered last week. Lowly grades (5 ish) but challenging enough having not pulled on a hold since June. And in a wild and beautiful spot too. And more to do (at low tide and a calmer sea).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 03, 2012, 07:22:13 am
Sounds lovely
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2012, 09:03:39 am
Vid to follow! (once I've hoovered up remaining problems). Joys of wandering the sea cliffs with a small child in a baby carrier is you do have the time to discover previously unseen things. Got projects coming out of my ears once I get some more free time again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on October 03, 2012, 09:27:06 am
Got projects coming out of my ears once I get some more free time again.

About 15 years time then!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2012, 01:26:20 pm
Springtime hopefully! Trouble is by then we are unlikely to be living so close
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on October 05, 2012, 02:33:16 pm
a yyfy for myself.ive jacked weightlifting for the time been and ready for climbing again.just need to get the weight down,which is happening very quickly with the help of cycling as much as i can.
going the gym is a bloody expensive hobby with all the food i was eating.i also needed a new wardrobe as non of my clothes were fitting.
my partner is crime is now out of action for a few weeks though as in another yyfy he is now a dad
nice one turnip  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2012, 01:06:21 pm
House sold now need to find another, soon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on October 06, 2012, 01:08:29 pm
Congratulations Chris! A big tick for sure mate!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2012, 01:11:31 pm
Yeah went down surprisingly easily; 2 weeks, 2 viewings, 2 offers. Other houses in the village have been on market for 6 months plus
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on October 06, 2012, 01:34:56 pm
That's ace Chris, best of luck in finding a new gaff in the near future.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 06, 2012, 06:31:54 pm
That's ace Chris, best of luck in finding a new gaff in the near future.

Ditto, glad it worked out well. I am still waiting on a slack bastard plasterer to pay a visit. My dreams of being in the house by November are slipping away!  :wavecry:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on October 07, 2012, 07:45:16 pm
Finally sent Vitruvian Man. First real 7C that isn't going to get downgraded by Doylo in a couple of days  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on October 07, 2012, 08:42:29 pm
Well done old man. No dabs either... ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on October 07, 2012, 10:58:16 pm
Finally sent Vitruvian Man. First real 7C that isn't going to get downgraded by Doylo in a couple of days  :dance1:

Go on then you can have it  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on October 08, 2012, 07:28:21 am
Finally sent Vitruvian Man. First real 7C that isn't going to get downgraded by Doylo in a couple of days  :dance1:

Good effort

Did you stick with the toehook?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 08, 2012, 08:38:14 am
Did you stick with the toehook?

I hope no faggotry was used in the ascent.

Good work Andy, not bad for someone who totally quit climbing and was never coming back ever a few years ago.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dexter on October 08, 2012, 10:15:24 am
did the joker on saturday first 8A proper chuffed   :beer2: :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on October 08, 2012, 10:28:19 am
did the joker on saturday first 8A proper chuffed   :beer2: :beer2:

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nickreyner on October 08, 2012, 11:39:46 am
Nice one Dexter !!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 08, 2012, 11:51:30 am
Finally sent Vitruvian Man. First real 7C that isn't going to get downgraded by Doylo Greg in a couple of days  :dance1:

Well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on October 08, 2012, 07:35:01 pm
Did you stick with the toehook?

I hope no faggotry was used in the ascent.

Good work Andy, not bad for someone who totally quit climbing and was never coming back ever a few years ago.

Yes, I stuck with the toehook. And no other faggotry was involved. And thank you, yet again, for reminding me that I totally quit. Because I couldn't improve  :slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2012, 07:44:02 am
I only like to point it out because at the time I said I knew you would be back. I recognise a lifer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 14, 2012, 07:53:51 pm
Finished my first (and very possibly last) marathon
 3:36.25 (http://www.tdl.ltd.uk/race-results.php?event=1268&page=5)  Well chuffed! ;D ;D

Also have raised over £300 for the MS Society (my mum had it) - if anyone would like to chip in with a couple of quid it's a really worthwhile cause and every penny will help.
 mrjonathanr's MS Society page (https://beatms.mssociety.org.uk/netcommunity/mrjonathanr)
Thanks for reading!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on October 14, 2012, 08:15:15 pm
Hung the BM 45s today. Only a couple of seconds, and firmly nestled, but still: never even felt close before.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on October 14, 2012, 09:26:18 pm
Finished my first (and very possibly last) marathon
 3:36.25 (http://www.tdl.ltd.uk/race-results.php?event=1268&page=5)  Well chuffed! ;D ;D

Also have raised over £300 for the MS Society (my mum had it) - if anyone would like to chip in with a couple of quid it's a really worthwhile cause and every penny will help.
 mrjonathanr's MS Society page (https://beatms.mssociety.org.uk/netcommunity/mrjonathanr)
Thanks for reading!

Well Done!!!  and good time to boot!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 14, 2012, 10:26:33 pm
Thanks Sasquatch - I know you're quite into your running from what you've posted. It was surprisingly fun!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 15, 2012, 12:28:19 am
good effort on the marathon thats a good time! also did my first 7A on grit this weekend(the nose at burbage) which is quite an achievement as im usually rubbish on grit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 15, 2012, 08:49:54 am
Finished my first (and very possibly last) marathon

Yeah, that's what they all say.  Then there's just another marathon or two......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 15, 2012, 11:28:03 am
Boulderingbacon: Thanks and well done- they can be tricky beasts!

GCW: I know, and the Manchester one is actually much flatter....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 15, 2012, 11:41:55 am
I did Manchester this year, I'd said I'd like to do one marathon in my life.  The weather was horrendous, there were sections of ankle deep water on the back roads and deep mud through Dunham Massey.  The course for 2013 seems to avoid these aweful sections.

A friend of ours is doing the Bolton Iron Man next year, so I'm tagging along with some of his training events- I suspect I'll be doing Manchester next year.  I've entered the last three races of the Night Runner (http://www.thenightrunner.com/) series too, look great fun.  He wants us to do the Rivington 26, from the Montane series (http://www.ultratrail26.com/)- not entered that yet, I'm in two minds.

And then back to bouldering once I've built my board........
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 21, 2012, 09:24:06 am
Just received a new blood donor card - gold to mark my 50th donation!Not coming here to brag (OK, I'm a bit pleased with myself, didn't realize I was approaching that number) so much as to urge anyone who hasn't yet to check out whether they can donate - only 5% of people able to donate actually do so. Its a small thing that can make a big difference.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 21, 2012, 01:21:00 pm
Good arrows Andy. I've been slack with donating recently but once I'm over this shitty illness I'm going to make an appointment asap.

Everyone should do this.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on October 21, 2012, 03:50:14 pm
another none bouldering yyfy i ran a pb at stroud half today of 1hour 34 its inspired me to start training now to break the magic 1.30 mark.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 21, 2012, 04:38:22 pm
My blood ain't good enough for the NHS apparently. Imagine!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on October 21, 2012, 06:57:01 pm
Good work reaching 50 donations Andy.

I try and go every three months or so, but I've got to wait a bit before I can donate again having spent time in South America this year.

I feel its useful for me to donate as I'm O-negative which is the universal blood type that anyone can receive.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 21, 2012, 09:02:27 pm
My blood ain't good enough for the NHS apparently. Imagine!

Me neither. Used to donate regularly in SA but my African residence means NHS won't touch it. Hopefully my organs wil still be useful.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on October 21, 2012, 09:09:11 pm
Great effort on 50, how many years was that?  Only given 3 (out of a possible 3, medal please) nowhere near as bad as some people think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on October 21, 2012, 09:16:46 pm
My blood ain't good enough for the NHS apparently. Imagine!

Me neither. Used to donate regularly in SA but my African residence means NHS won't touch it. Hopefully my organs wil still be useful.

well, you've proved it works.  :shrug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 21, 2012, 09:38:24 pm
Great effort on 50, how many years was that? 

I've been giving platelets for a while now; these can be given monthly making it quicker to rack up the numbers. Good effort on the 3 out of 3. Would be great if someone decides to check it out this week, you can simply drop into most donor centres.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on October 21, 2012, 10:52:00 pm
Being a platelet donor is very very special... U save lives every time u donate. I am so impressed... Not in wayward fatdoc sort of a way.... But  a very real u save lives sort of a way.

 :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeh on October 22, 2012, 09:50:54 am
Congratulations on the 50th!

you can simply drop into most donor centres.

Not sure where you are donating, but thought I'd say that at least in Bristol this is becoming harder to do, although they will of course try and fit everyone in. If your donation is at all premeditated give the blood number (0300 123 23 23) a ring and book in - they're possibly the most helpful call centre I've had the pleasure of using! It removes the queuing as well so you can make an ultra speedy deposit :).

and to remove the need for a  :off: - I got my first non dyno 7B on Saturday - Zippy's traverse - YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 22, 2012, 10:20:13 am
My blood ain't good enough for the NHS apparently. Imagine!

Me neither. Used to donate regularly in SA but my African residence means NHS won't touch it. Hopefully my organs wil still be useful.

well, you've proved it works.  :shrug:

Works for me anyway. I'm high risk apparently.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 22, 2012, 10:44:59 am

you can simply drop into most donor centres.

Not sure where you are donating, but thought I'd say that at least in Bristol this is becoming harder to do, although they will of course try and fit everyone in. If your donation is at all premeditated give the blood number (0300 123 23 23) a ring and book in - they're possibly the most helpful call centre I've had the pleasure of using! It removes the queuing as well so you can make an ultra speedy deposit :).

and to remove the need for a  :off: - I got my first non dyno 7B on Saturday - Zippy's traverse - YYFY!

Good call Luke, hopefully someone will give them a call today  ;)

Fine effort on Zippy's too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 22, 2012, 11:37:18 am
My blood ain't good enough for the NHS apparently. Imagine!

Me neither. Used to donate regularly in SA but my African residence means NHS won't touch it. Hopefully my organs wil still be useful.

well, you've proved it works.  :shrug:

Works for me anyway. I'm high risk apparently.

Fieldwork in Northern Australia has ruled me out in the past (nasty odd unknown insect borne diseases etc.. nice.)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 22, 2012, 12:20:12 pm
Shit in real running terms, but I've just managed a goal I've had for a while and run just over 10 miles in under 90 minutes, 1:26:43 in fact.   :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 22, 2012, 01:46:51 pm
It's always good to reach a (10) milestone, nice one :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on October 30, 2012, 05:06:25 pm
If I can be permitted a non-climbing one...

My first PhD student sat her viva this morning and passed with minimal corrections.  It was a good piece of work but that doesn't stop me being mightily relieved.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 30, 2012, 05:45:41 pm
It's always good to reach a (10) milestone, nice one :2thumbsup:

Did the Preston half marathon on Sunday, aimed for sub 2 hours and did it in 1:52:33.  Very pleased!!  And I'm doing the Tatton Half this Sunday, which is much flatter- do I have to go even quicker!?!?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 31, 2012, 11:46:25 pm
Very psyched! Today I flashed my first 7c problem.
On the Moonboard!!!
YYFY!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 01, 2012, 09:38:40 am
Finished with physio today - well, no more appointments; left open in case I need advice later

Jumped up off a bench, onto a trampette, launched upwards and forwards, did a quarter turn and landed one footed - the bad foot; didn't fall over. Did this turning to the left and to the right. It was very scary E6 4a

Get the fuck in!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 01, 2012, 09:40:55 am
Is a trampette a female tramp? Bet she wasn't happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 01, 2012, 10:03:45 am
Nice one Lagers!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 01, 2012, 10:14:07 am
Nice of you to put it online too, lagers.

Fat Guy on a Trampoline, Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2DxXUL00LQ#noexternalembed)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 01, 2012, 10:38:48 am
Finished with physio today - well, no more appointments; left open in case I need advice later

Jumped up off a bench, onto a trampette, launched upwards and forwards, did a quarter turn and landed one footed - the bad foot; didn't fall over. Did this turning to the left and to the right. It was very scary E6 4a

Get the fuck in!

Nice one lagers. The bastards had me doing "simulated jogging" on the stepper on Monday. The foot felt fine but five minutes on that fucking thing nearly made me pass out due to being hugely unfit!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 01, 2012, 10:40:44 am
Nice of you to upload a video of that too Jasper

Fat Man Running Fail (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPasPJGg_x0#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 01, 2012, 10:42:17 am
Excellent new Lagers :)

You passed fit to play on the scrittle yet?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 01, 2012, 10:47:35 am
You passed fit to play on the scrittle yet?

walking on uneven ground is still difficult - especially carrying a pad, but I've been out a couple of times

certainly not confident about unplanned dismounts
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 01, 2012, 11:24:17 am
certainly not confident about unplanned dismounts

Goldmine!!

Fat Man Falls Off Bike (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZ5HUhEDiC8#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 01, 2012, 11:34:37 am
I wouldn't emit such a girly sound

I would either utter a simple "fuck" or let out an Achilles style roar
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on November 04, 2012, 05:04:47 pm
Did Brad Pitt today in my first session on it today  ;D
One of the big ones for the winter done!! Lovely stuff
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 04, 2012, 06:54:02 pm
 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 05, 2012, 03:28:36 pm
Not climbing related, but a good YYFY nonetheless.
Today I received the confirmation of my enrollment for a 1st level Master at one of Rome's universities. The subject is "Research Techniques, Security and Criminology" and I'll follow it via e-learning with some seminaries in place. It lasts one academic year, with the final exam July 2013.
I graduated in Criminology in 2002 and unluckily wasn't smart enough to keep my formation. A couple of weeks ago while on the bus I had an inspiration and went for it.
I am a bit scared, it's more than 1000 hours plus the seminaries plus the papers, but hey! It's a challenge, and who knows which doors it could open up!
 :smartass:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on November 05, 2012, 05:01:19 pm
Not climbing related, but a good YYFY nonetheless.
Today I received the confirmation of my enrollment for a 1st level Master at one of Rome's universities. The subject is "Research Techniques, Security and Criminology" and I'll follow it via e-learning with some seminaries in place. It lasts one academic year, with the final exam July 2013.
I graduated in Criminology in 2002 and unluckily wasn't smart enough to keep my formation. A couple of weeks ago while on the bus I had an inspiration and went for it.
I am a bit scared, it's more than 1000 hours plus the seminaries plus the papers, but hey! It's a challenge, and who knows which doors it could open up!
 :smartass:

nice one :beer2: I too have a crimology degree but have done precisely nob all with it so props to you
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on November 05, 2012, 05:11:34 pm
 YYFY LORE. Don't be intimidated, just attack it as you do your fingerboard and your training and I dare say you'll produce a masterpiece. Excellent news.

First session back at City Bloc today. Made up to be living in spitting distance. Delightfully no back pain after 7 weeks now.YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 05, 2012, 06:49:20 pm
nice one :beer2: I too have a crimology degree but have done precisely nob all with it so props to you
Cheers beast, but I haven't done absolutely anything with mine as well!!!

Tom, thanks. You know you are my brother.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 05, 2012, 06:55:21 pm
nice one :beer2: I too have a crimology degree but have done precisely nob all with it so props to you
Cheers beast, but I haven't done absolutely anything with mine as well!!!

Tom, thanks. You know you are my brother.

Always good to get the brain working again Lore... hope it goes well..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 07, 2012, 06:20:46 pm
Very climbing related, I just climbed a 4 months project on my wall.
This one Elbbuh 2 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/48547740)
Incredible sensation really, almost perfect phisically, perfect mentally.
Fantastic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 08, 2012, 09:36:20 am
Is it as hard as Hubble Problem With Extension?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 08, 2012, 10:20:02 am
I am only human.
Did you get it by the name or by the moves?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 08, 2012, 10:23:05 am
Did anyone spot the elephant in the room - I thought I heard one?


Actually, I think that's a great video, its like a piece of anthropology.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 08, 2012, 05:46:51 pm
its like a piece of anthropology.
:)
Tell me more, genuinely interested!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 10, 2012, 12:31:28 am
I am going to reply.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 10, 2012, 09:35:53 am
I am only human.
Did you get it by the name or by the moves?  ;)

ROFL!!

Actually, I didn't even read the name, and I wasn't analysing the moves. I just assumed it would be the right inspiration.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 11, 2012, 08:40:23 pm
House renovations complete, garage board now finally cleared for action.

Had a moment of ability... Did 3 of the 8 problems I do as an easy session first go.. Did one same time last yer.. God bless yoga (sic)

Gonna be a good winter on the board, must book Font!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on November 12, 2012, 11:10:19 am
When can I come round then ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 12, 2012, 09:15:05 pm
weds eve??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 18, 2012, 08:45:33 pm
Finally made it to Simons, Lords and Hen stones today. I've been chomping at the bit to go for ages. Had a great day and sent nearly everything I aimed to. It also marked my 50th 7th grade problem sinced I moved up this summer!  (Yes, I'm counting, yes it is partly about the numbers). ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rosmat on November 26, 2012, 08:55:43 pm
First ever one armer today!
 :great:

Haven't even been training for it, just thought I'd give it a go. Never used to be able to get even close. Stronger at 36 than 18! YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 26, 2012, 09:53:32 pm
Finally made it to Simons, Lords and Hen stones today. I've been chomping at the bit to go for ages. Had a great day and sent nearly everything I aimed to. It also marked my 50th 7th grade problem sinced I moved up this summer!  (Yes, I'm counting, yes it is partly about the numbers). ;D

Lucky you. Were you using the new guide? How did you find using it?  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 26, 2012, 10:08:16 pm
I heard that section was shit. By far the shittest part of the guide.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 27, 2012, 11:23:43 am
Finally made it to Simons, Lords and Hen stones today. I've been chomping at the bit to go for ages. Had a great day and sent nearly everything I aimed to. It also marked my 50th 7th grade problem sinced I moved up this summer!  (Yes, I'm counting, yes it is partly about the numbers). ;D

Lucky you. Were you using the new guide? How did you find using it?  :whistle:

I was using Steve's Bk2 and yorkshiregrit, but one of my mates had the new guide. I didn't take that much notice of it (apart from the fact that it looks amazing and I'll buy it soon I promise and so should everyone who wants to climb in Yorkshire) :-*. I knew what I wanted to do so didn't deviate from the plan.  I think Will Buck's video (Simon's and Lord's Seat on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/21920129))  was probably the most helpful thing for me, coupled with a OS map.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 27, 2012, 11:25:00 am
I'm guessing you went and did Galaxy, Whalebak, McNab, Hen Arete, anything else?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 27, 2012, 11:31:36 am
First ever one armer today!
 :great:

Haven't even been training for it, just thought I'd give it a go. Never used to be able to get even close. Stronger at 36 than 18! YYFY!

:) effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 27, 2012, 11:36:39 am
I'm guessing you went and did Galaxy, Whalebak, McNab, Hen Arete, anything else?

You should feel proud that you inspired such a trip. Lots of places were wet as the frost melted and didn't dry off, but your list is correct. A load of warm ups, some highball E3ish stuff and a couple more bird related masterpieces, one of which I need to go back and not fall off the top of  :chair:

I did Pixie Tits at Fairies Chest on Saturday too whilst I'm on the 'blowing my own trumpet' thread. That's a class line.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 27, 2012, 11:38:12 am
First ever one armer today!
 :great:

Haven't even been training for it, just thought I'd give it a go. Never used to be able to get even close. Stronger at 36 than 18! YYFY!

:) effort!

 :2thumbsup:
here's to 'man strength'

ps-do you too see a direct correlation between strength and back-hair-coverage?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rosmat on November 27, 2012, 12:48:50 pm
Couldn't say, but if there is I'll happily shave the back of my head.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 27, 2012, 01:56:52 pm
First ever one armer today!
 :great:

Haven't even been training for it, just thought I'd give it a go. Never used to be able to get even close. Stronger at 36 than 18! YYFY!

:) effort!

 :2thumbsup:
here's to 'man strength'

ps-do you too see a direct correlation between strength and back-hair-coverage?

Thats why I'm weak then :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on November 29, 2012, 11:17:08 am
Very excited about a new weighted deadhang PB yesterday which with bodyweight included is a 4kg improvement on my PB in July.

I think further progress is possible so I'm psyched for my next session.

For the record its 35kg + 74kg bodyweight = 109kg with 3 reps of 10secs completed on 23mm rounded off wooden edge

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on November 29, 2012, 11:46:24 am
 :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 29, 2012, 11:48:14 am
I heard a rumour you were wearing a knee-pad which means you can only claim 95kg for it. Sorry.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on November 30, 2012, 01:43:00 pm
Got my first F7c+ yesterday (it was indoors, but that doesn't matter as I'll explain)! It's one of those grades I never thought I'd do as I've always been a boulderer with shitdurance. The route in question was an endurance based excercise so a real challenge for me, yet I didn't have to spend AAGES working it. Basically, having done this climb says to me"you are no longer shit at routes" :) Well pleased.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on December 01, 2012, 06:05:50 pm
West side story and blind date today ;D both in a session after not being able to get anywhere on them, even the storm got done thursday . Chuffed  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 01, 2012, 07:10:21 pm
Crushlord!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 01, 2012, 07:36:15 pm
Wow... If carlsberg did bouldering days etc..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 03, 2012, 02:54:36 pm
Second weekend in Chironico in two weeks, and a very nice although unexpected tick of Komilator, first go of the second day after an afternoon of tries on Sunday! What a nice problem, very glad that my good friend Filo was psyched for it as well, otherwise I couldn't have tried it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 03, 2012, 04:35:26 pm
Nice!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sidewinder on December 03, 2012, 04:43:16 pm
phd thesis handed in today and managed it without the climbing suffering too much.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on December 03, 2012, 06:46:23 pm
In May this year my big sis was diagnosed with breast cancer, she's 37. In July this year my dad was diagnosed with T4 prostrate cancer. How to describe the last few months is impossible, my mother was seriously loosing it Ive been pretty fucked and we aint the ones in the  :shit:.
On sat found out my dads hormone treatment has worked better than expected and the cancer hasnt grown. This morning after months of all the treatment that goes with breast cancer found out my sister is nearly in the clear and only a bit of radio and precautionary pills to go to make sure.
Fucking get the fuck in.  :2thumbsup: 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 03, 2012, 06:56:43 pm
Great news Paul, if you know what I mean. My brother was diagnosed with cancer last Oct and my mum in the new year; both are now clear - in fact my brother just climbed his first 7a last week. It can happen. Lets hope both your dad and sister keep improving
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on December 03, 2012, 08:31:35 pm
Nice to hear these tales of people in the clear. My mum has been given it too after a course of treatment over the last couple months. Hopefully it stays that way  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 03, 2012, 08:38:27 pm
Great news.  You're not the first to tell me that hormone treatment has been successful for prostrate cancer.  Sounds promising.

On a minor YYFY the new massive Bay 66 skatepark near my house now does an over thirties Old Mans Night every other Friday  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 03, 2012, 08:54:25 pm
Has the local A&E been warned? The rush of blokes with sprained ankles and broken wrists may overwhelm them!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on December 03, 2012, 11:51:15 pm
Probes - that's great news,glad to hear it mate.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bubba on December 04, 2012, 05:42:28 am
Some seriously good YYFYs of late - very happy for your great news :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 04, 2012, 06:30:00 am
Yes, those are some real YYFYs. Very happy for you all!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 04, 2012, 11:41:52 am
Yeah, some great news all round. Nice to hear some people winning against the big C for a change.
 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on December 04, 2012, 11:44:52 am
Sometimes when it's all doom and gloom YYFY comes along and cheers me up. Great news guys.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 04, 2012, 11:53:31 am
Great news :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 06, 2012, 05:40:08 pm
Just climbed for the first time since my injury. Five months to the day since I fucked myself up, I went to The Works and crushed 30 easy problems.

Despite having to use one shoe and one trainer and having to downclimb everything it felt FUCKING GREAT.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 06, 2012, 06:01:30 pm
\o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 07, 2012, 07:03:44 am
Sounds good, beast!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 07, 2012, 07:47:48 am
Like!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on December 07, 2012, 08:57:40 am
Good stuff.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 07, 2012, 09:07:20 am
How long until you're out not casting a shadow on the brown limescrittle J?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on December 07, 2012, 09:37:29 am
How long until you're out not casting a shadow on the brown limescrittle J?

The Daywalker doesn't cast shadows. :clown:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 07, 2012, 10:07:36 am
Just climbed for the first time since my injury. Five months to the day since I fucked myself up, I went to The Works and crushed 30 easy problems.

Despite having to use one shoe and one trainer and having to downclimb everything it felt FUCKING GREAT.

Oh well, that's the end of me being better than Jasper

Nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 07, 2012, 10:25:39 am
How long until you're out not casting a shadow on the brown limescrittle J?

The Daywalker doesn't cast shadows. :clown:

Ahem, RTFP... ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on December 07, 2012, 10:31:06 am
How long until you're out not casting a shadow on the brown limescrittle J?

The Daywalker doesn't cast shadows. :clown:

Ahem, RTFP... ;)

 :slap: :oops: :sorry:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 08, 2012, 03:26:23 pm
Thanks lads.

How long until you're out not casting a shadow on the brown limescrittle J?

Have a hospital appointment next month when they'll x-ray me again. Physio reckons I should ask them then about being able to jump off so we'll see. All going in the right direction, still hurts like fuck mind but that's to be expected.

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 08, 2012, 06:04:37 pm
First 7b today after wanting to do one for ages. McNab at Lord's Seat. Conditions were mint and it didn't take all that long to get done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on December 08, 2012, 07:40:48 pm
Excellent first 7B too. Effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 08, 2012, 07:41:17 pm
Great stuff Will.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nike Air on December 08, 2012, 07:44:28 pm
Good effort youth :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 08, 2012, 08:43:33 pm
Thanks lads.

How long until you're out not casting a shadow on the brown limescrittle J?

Have a hospital appointment next month when they'll x-ray me again. Physio reckons I should ask them then about being able to jump off so we'll see. All going in the right direction, still hurts like fuck mind but that's to be expected.

 ;D

So glad to hear yr a step closer to the climbing life jasp... Good luck.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 09, 2012, 10:52:10 am
Good arrows Will..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on December 12, 2012, 06:48:57 pm
Actually managed to climb outside today  :2thumbsup:
(only the 4th day out since August...)
AND - managed NOT to break myself  :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:

Went to Lulworth (http://www.dorset-climbing.com/LulworthBouldering.pdf) and did a handful of problems
probably not worth the 2 and a bit hour drive but it's the closest climbing to Surrey (that's not softstone)

Bow Wow Arete is almost worth the 3 stars - or would be if it were not for the back breaker block and the chossy as F##k top - did make it spicy though (sans spotters)

If anyone's in the area and thinking about it I'd advise the Dungy Head approach, skidding down to Dragon Rock was scarier than than the arete.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 12, 2012, 07:17:45 pm
"This guide is for historical interest only" lol.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on December 12, 2012, 08:32:12 pm
"This guide is for historical interest only" lol.

Actually the bouldering is on CrOW land so is now allowed - not that I expect the estate is particularly happy about it but...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on December 13, 2012, 07:46:35 am
"This guide is for historical interest only" lol.

Actually the bouldering is on CrOW land so is now allowed - not that I expect the estate is particularly happy about it but...

Also the signs all say "No climbing on the the cliffs"
I wasn't climbing on the "cliffs" ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 14, 2012, 12:21:02 pm
Multiple YYFY this week! Finally moved into new house,give praise to baby Jebus!!! Now that is out the way, I can finally focus on getting my business up and running. Took a call this morning, landed a nice little contract doing repairs to 30 + metres of walling which will keep me occupied for the next few weeks and also secured the deal to repair a further 15 metres for the local FSC in January!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on December 18, 2012, 06:30:14 pm
I know it doesn't count 'cos it's indoor and not much in the grand scheme of things but YYFY I got my first 6B. More importantly it was the hardest thing I've ever done. And on maybe my last session of the year at my wall.  :clap2:, so that's at least one of my aims fot the year done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 18, 2012, 10:43:13 pm
Effort Fried.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 18, 2012, 11:23:40 pm
Always satisfying to break a barrier, nice one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on December 20, 2012, 06:00:03 pm
been offered a place at leek fire station,as long as long as i pass medical
its retained but its still a foot on the ladder
will be able to drive a truck as quick as the tippers i used  but legally.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on December 20, 2012, 07:58:27 pm
nice one  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bubba on December 20, 2012, 08:07:27 pm
Nice one Mark - any move out of trucking has got to be a good one, I'm jealous :)

Actually, the thought of tippers with blue lights might give me nightmares...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2012, 10:46:58 am
been offered a place at leek fire station,as long as long as i pass medical
its retained but its still a foot on the ladder will be able to drive a truck as quick as the tippers i used  but legally.

Apparently punning is now frowned upon in these parts. Nice one anyway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on December 22, 2012, 10:42:17 am
yeah i spotted that when i typed it, :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on December 22, 2012, 11:05:19 am
Hose turning this into a pun thread?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on December 23, 2012, 05:47:31 pm
Finally did Hurricane at Curbar today. 4th session, never spent so long on a problem before. Typically it felt easy when I did it.
Chuffed!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on December 23, 2012, 06:10:20 pm
Apt given the recent weather! Well done
I flashed Help The Young today  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 24, 2012, 10:48:40 am
Beast :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 29, 2012, 09:33:56 pm
Favourite gite booked for the honeypot week at Easter for Font.. Failed to get it booked in time last year.
shite.... Better lose some flab... Hoping for complete blue circuit success everyday en famille!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on January 02, 2013, 08:29:07 pm
Went to see the shoulder specialist tonight to get the results from my x ray and scan.
There's no tendon tear and despite a small amount of damage to the joint it can all be rectified via physio. No need for surgery  :)
I even played 2 sets of tennis today and it was OK
All I need now is some dry rock
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on January 02, 2013, 08:32:33 pm
Quote
All I need now is some dry rock

Fuck, that would be a YYFY moment. Too. much. rain.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on January 04, 2013, 09:19:04 am
Favourite gite booked for the honeypot week at Easter for Font.. Failed to get it booked in time last year.

 :bounce: Likewise - just booked into our gite for Easter Font'age :)
Missed the gite the last 2 years, but got it this time. Psyched!

 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on January 04, 2013, 09:51:19 am
+1
Also going to Font on the week of the great migration. Staying at Maison Bleau so hoping Neil can give us some good-off-the-beaten-track-spot info.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on January 04, 2013, 10:01:59 am
:D We're worse than wilderbeast...

Everyone stocked up on breathalysers and hi-vis jackets ;)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on January 04, 2013, 10:44:16 am
Quote
Favourite gite booked

Same here :) Staying at The House in Feb for a long weekend with Treebeard... Psyched!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DaveC on January 04, 2013, 11:09:43 am
:D We're worse than wildebeast...

...but with a few less worries on the journey.  ::)

(http://www.dungbeetletours.com/wp-content/gallery/serengeti-migration/serengeti-highway-wildebeest-migration_24693_600x450.jpg)
(http://cdn.naturalhighsafaris.com/cdn/made/cdn/uploads/experience_images/16:9%20front%20of%20card/The%20Serengeti%20Wildebeest%20Migration%20-%20The%20Rut_940_529_80_s_c1.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on January 04, 2013, 12:21:36 pm
:D We're worse than Wildebeest...

(http://profile.ak.fbcdn.net/hprofile-ak-snc4/41672_507721679_7665_n.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 04, 2013, 12:44:26 pm
+1
Also going to Font on the week of the great migration. Staying at Maison Bleau so hoping Neil can give us some good-off-the-beaten-track-spot info.

When did you book to get in there? 2010??

I'll se u there, I'm comin round to maisonbleau to go biking with neil at some point.
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on January 04, 2013, 01:30:57 pm
Yes, it was wierd. Booked last Oct-ish. It was all booked but then somebody dropped out of one Gite so I snagged that, then unbelivably the 2nd Gite became available so it was snagged for the legend that is Sam Townsend and family. It is going to be awesome. Not climbed with Sam in about 15 years.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on January 04, 2013, 01:47:11 pm
Would it be quicker to have a "Who's not going to Font at Easter?" thread?

I think the wildebeast parallel is quite good, with the cheetah representing the French police...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 04, 2013, 01:55:08 pm
I'm not going font at Easter
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on January 04, 2013, 02:19:48 pm
You'll have to video that to prove it Dense as I don't believe you can be a witness for yourself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 04, 2013, 02:29:42 pm
People will just have to do it the old fashioned way and take me at my word. I hope no one sees me in font at Easter now!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on January 04, 2013, 03:00:46 pm
If you fancy a romantic weekend at the Orme instead Lee, I still have space for a +1 in the car boot on Easter weekend.  :-*
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 04, 2013, 03:07:17 pm
So many choices...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on January 04, 2013, 06:21:38 pm
Like Dense, I'm not foolish enough to go to font at easter
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on January 04, 2013, 06:34:08 pm
Would it be quicker to have a "Who's not going to Font at Easter?" thread?

I think the wildebeast parallel is quite good, with the cheetah representing the French police...
...or the majority of crappy gite owners
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joe dobson on January 08, 2013, 10:30:02 pm
3 weeks after snapping something in my finger I've had my first session indoors! :bounce: Bar feeling weak from 3 weeks off and far to much food, had a good session without any pain in the finger. Didn't feel like it held me back either  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on January 08, 2013, 10:32:24 pm
fools rush in joe go steady
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joe dobson on January 08, 2013, 10:35:18 pm
in the middle of uni exams at the moment so the next session won't probably be for another 3 weeks :( Icing and messaging the finger daily as well which should help.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on January 08, 2013, 10:57:06 pm
it's not so much the length of time off joe, rather the speed with which you endevour to return to full strength which will determine the course of your fate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 13, 2013, 10:12:37 pm
Did Ian's Traverse at Brimham -  two years after losing all my strength due to medical woes (and getting a job!) I finally feel like I'm getting some form back. Done the problem before, but to make it sweeter, this time I did it with a kosher sequence (keeping to lip, heeling hooking pebble for crux) - no lankmeister feet-on-back-wall malarky for crux this time. Result. Might break out the Lagavullin to celebrate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 13, 2013, 10:23:21 pm
Bravo!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 13, 2013, 10:40:11 pm
Bravo!
+1
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 14, 2013, 09:48:43 am
Good work Moose! It seems like a quite a bunched problem too, have you got shorter?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 14, 2013, 10:28:03 am
I bloody well hope I haven't got any shorter - lank is all I have and an attack of rickets would be a bit worrying.  It is a bit bunched - hence my previous sequence which used a flying front-lever to a distant foothold on the back-wall to support the crux reach to the undercut under the roof.   With the "official" sequence, the key is just trusting the marginal holds - heel on a pebble, left-hand on a barely there crimp - and trying not to worry about the nearby block.  Seems what I might have lost in strength I have made up for in reckless idiocy and stubbornness (I fell off whilst reaching to the final hold four times)! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on January 14, 2013, 04:30:39 pm
Had a boss day out on Sat at Thorn Crag and managed to ascend And For My Next Trick thus ticking my first 7a in about three years! Been on it before and got shut down but with a bit of sound beta from BenF I managed to rinse it really quickly  :)

My weight loss and font training programme is already bearing fruit  ;D

Well Brown...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tesla on January 14, 2013, 05:06:46 pm
Minor YYFY. My daughter just qualified for the ABS National Youth Bouldering comp in March. This YYFY is mine, though, as I now get to visit Colorado and have a mooch around, I've not ever been there before. Interested to visit Boulder and a few other places if I have time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 14, 2013, 08:12:54 pm
Nice one. Where is the comp? Denver, Boulder or Fort Collins? Still be awesome snows at the front range resorts as well if you fancied.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tesla on January 14, 2013, 09:16:14 pm
heh, it's Colorado Springs which is apparently ultra conservative and religious, so not too excited about that in itself - but I will take a day or two and visit some other places, maybe go skiing. The company I work for has an office in Boulder so I might work from there for a day too just to check it out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on January 16, 2013, 12:27:53 pm
heh, it's Colorado Springs which is apparently ultra conservative and religious, so not too excited about that in itself - but I will take a day or two and visit some other places, maybe go skiing. The company I work for has an office in Boulder so I might work from there for a day too just to check it out.
It doesn't mean you have to wear a tie and carry a bible under your arm. Can't imagine you're intending to have a night on the lash, hitting some strip joints and starting a few street fights with your daughter in toe are you? :no:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 16, 2013, 02:23:59 pm
Yeah, it's not like you re going to Utah or anything. It's still Colorado, you can but beer anywhere, although they might not let you buy your daughter one, you'll need to go to Boulder for that :).

From Boulder you can easily get to Loveland for a day skiing (or Arapahoe Basin, Winter Park or Keystone are not much further, need an early start though) or Eldora (which is small but OK for a day) and get on some rock up at Flagstaff Mountain or Eldorado Canyon. RMNP will be very closed and snowbound.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 16, 2013, 04:14:35 pm
Two YYFY's recently.
A minor one, climbing training wise, is that I managed to do a front lever on ring finger monos. Pinkies now.
A more important one is that I found a lawyer so foolish to take me for my practice in his law firm. I took all the documents to the Law Court yesterday and from next week if everything is OK I'll officially start attending trials and practicing. I'll have to complete 18 months of practice and then I'll be able to try the final exam.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on January 16, 2013, 04:32:14 pm
Congratulations! You'll certainly be the strongest lawyer in Italy!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on January 16, 2013, 04:43:11 pm
Great news Nibs  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 16, 2013, 04:43:58 pm
Superb news Lore! and well done on the legal stuff too ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 16, 2013, 04:49:01 pm
Thank you guys, but everything's just started!!! The final exam is very difficult, so for the moment I don't want to think about it, but hopefully I'll manage it even having another job and being unable to study full time! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tesla on January 17, 2013, 02:46:36 pm
heh, it's Colorado Springs which is apparently ultra conservative and religious, so not too excited about that in itself - but I will take a day or two and visit some other places, maybe go skiing. The company I work for has an office in Boulder so I might work from there for a day too just to check it out.
It doesn't mean you have to wear a tie and carry a bible under your arm. Can't imagine you're intending to have a night on the lash, hitting some strip joints and starting a few street fights with your daughter in toe are you? :no:

I don't know what plans she has...

Eh, and re: ultra conservative / overly religious types, I'm very live-and-let-live, but I hear stories from people I trust that make much of Colorado sound like quite an unfriendly place to visit.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 17, 2013, 02:49:10 pm
Just watch loads of South Park, it should be good training.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on January 18, 2013, 12:52:10 am
I don't know what plans she has...

Eh, and re: ultra conservative / overly religious types, I'm very live-and-let-live, but I hear stories from people I trust that make much of Colorado sound like quite an unfriendly place to visit.

Most of Colorado, esp the Front Range area where you'll be visiting, is very easy going tesla. It's not a conservative stronghold despite our unfortunate share of religious zealots.  ;)

Climbers are well accepted, the food is good and the beer selection is excellent. And we're one of two states in which marijuana is legal! Really, it's not half bad here.

Give a shout if you're coming up to Fort Collins, will try to get free to give a tour of Horsetooth bouldering if you're interested.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 18, 2013, 08:11:17 am
I'll officially start attending trials and practicing

nice one

before going into court, flex your formidable guns, take a deep breath and rember that

Quote from: not Aristotle which I thought it was
Power is the most persuasive rhetoric

not sure why I was convinced that Aristotle said that, but google says otherwise
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 18, 2013, 10:05:59 am
 :2thumbsup:
I fear that after two years of teaching in the mornings and practicing in the evenings my biceps will be barely able to put a signature on papers...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on January 18, 2013, 04:46:51 pm
:2thumbsup:
I fear that after two years of teaching in the mornings and practicing in the evenings my biceps will be barely able to put a signature on papers...

Where there's a will, there's a way. 

And you definitely have the will......   :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tesla on January 18, 2013, 05:16:37 pm
I don't know what plans she has...

Eh, and re: ultra conservative / overly religious types, I'm very live-and-let-live, but I hear stories from people I trust that make much of Colorado sound like quite an unfriendly place to visit.

Most of Colorado, esp the Front Range area where you'll be visiting, is very easy going tesla. It's not a conservative stronghold despite our unfortunate share of religious zealots.  ;)

Climbers are well accepted, the food is good and the beer selection is excellent. And we're one of two states in which marijuana is legal! Really, it's not half bad here.

Give a shout if you're coming up to Fort Collins, will try to get free to give a tour of Horsetooth bouldering if you're interested.

Nice to hear that Blunk. I expect my friends just had a bad experience. I was wondering which areas would be in season to visit as I don't know CO very well at all? I was thumbing through Stone Crusade yesterday for inspiration actually =)

A tour of Horsetooth would be really, really cool, thanks for the offer! Will drop you a PM.

heh, I <3 ukb...

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on January 19, 2013, 05:57:04 am
In the Boulder area Flagstaff and Eldorado, further north Carter Lake and Horsetooth are your best bets.  March can be tricky, we get the most snow in March and April. Nonetheless there are almost always good days between storms and somewhere will be dry. And all within an hour's drive. Should be a good time.

Do PM me, looking forward to meeting you--

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 21, 2013, 10:10:35 am
for Christmas I got an Aircast A60 ankle brace - AKA the Andy Murray brace - reccommended by a physio mate

On Saturday I went sledging with the kids (without brace) and was nearly in tears when it turned out that I was the weak link in the session - having to stay at the bottom of the hill because walking up became too painful after a while. As a result the day turned into a game of Snow Hospital which was pretty hilarious, with me playing the part of an old man who has broken his leg.

Sunday morning arrived - my chance to spend a few hours with just the oldest child; important time to her. She wanted to go sledging.

It was obviously time to use the brace. I had the great idea of wearing a snowboard boot over the brace for extra support - this felt pretty good. It felt better than good - it felt strong. I did some jumping off chairs to conform that it was as supported/strong as it felt.

This felt good enough to have a go on a snowboard.

We went out to the Norfolk Arms to have a play on Le Piste des Alpacas. The snow was just about adequate for boarding.

I did some gentle turns and was delighted to find that this felt OK - even the walk/limp up the slope felt OK. Probably only did 10 runs, but that's 10 more runs than I expected to be doing in 2013. Feels weird that boarding is easier than walking in to a crag, but I'm not complaining.

Ankle feels fine today.

YES, YES, FUCKING YES!

what this means is that oldest child and I can start going to Castleford indoor snow slope again and she can resume lessons while I find out what I can and can't do on a board.

Very happy indeed - another ankle op will obviously set me back for a while, but long term I'm sure I'll be back on a board.

The big question is - if the brace can make me this happy, why hasn't it worked on Murray?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on January 21, 2013, 10:16:46 am
Is it the same make as the one batman used in 'the dark knight rises'? If so, it didn't make him much happier, although sorted his limp out a treat. Maybe true happiness is found within.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 21, 2013, 10:19:27 am
Good luck Lagers. Glad there is something helping out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2013, 10:20:35 am
Nice one lagers. When I screwed my ankle i found it impossible to wear a ski boot, but could board OK; board boot gave ample support without any brace or anything. Acutally tried it with brace on as well and found it very painful (maybe because it was still too swollen).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 21, 2013, 10:22:53 am
Excellent Lagers... Now, graft some 5:10 rubber onto the front of that snowboard boot and get yer sen down to Rubicon :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on January 25, 2013, 08:00:55 am
After 2 years of red tape, multiple form filling and endless photocopying of every document known to man, the French powers that be have finally allotted me a real apartment.

I have interior walls and everything. I'll be able to fingerboard at home. I'll have cupboards to put stuff in. I have a balcony! 2mins walk from Pere Lachaise cemetry. Fuck, I can nearly see hoards of tourists defacing Jim Morrison's grave while I'm sipping pastis.

I'm so excited. Might be some mates-rates holiday lets to come.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 25, 2013, 10:06:09 pm
Well done mate, wish u well. Effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Rocksteady on February 05, 2013, 11:33:45 am
YYFY - ticked my first Fb7A on Saturday at the Cuttings at Portland. Not going to name the problem as I want to talk beta! 3rd session on it. Initially thought I still hadn't built the strength to hold this desperate 2 finger sloper and move onto the next crimp. Few tries made no further progress - could do all the other moves apart from this crux. Then spotted a cheeky toehook that gave me the stability to hang the sloper and move off it. BOOM - ticked it next go.

Most satisfying bit of beta I've found on rock. And makes me think about lots of other problems I've tried where I thought I just wasn't strong enough. Was there lurking technical stuff that would've got me up it? I'm psyched to go find out!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 05, 2013, 11:41:09 am
The never-ending quest for the micro-beta. The difference between desperation and smoothness. That tiny thumb-sprag on the roof slot on Underhand, that 4o rotation of the knee on Titfield Thunderbolt, the finger-lock on Crimpy Roof- all tiny adjustments which have made big differences for me in the past. Micro-beta is the way forward! (A toe-hook does sound more like macro-beta though, but anything is welcome!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2013, 11:44:01 am
Was there lurking technical stuff that would've got me up it?

Probably. It is a sweet feeling though!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on February 05, 2013, 12:17:31 pm
I climbed Art Nouveau on the Roaches Skyline on Saturday (along with a few other folk)
One of the best lines on grit imho
 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 07, 2013, 04:59:17 pm
"It Ain't over 'til you're at the top" :)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/08/vu6etapy.jpg)

Time for a cuppa :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2013, 05:00:29 pm
Did you fall from there??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 07, 2013, 05:04:11 pm
Did you fall from there??

Noooo. This is the yyfy thread :) went second go \o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 07, 2013, 05:04:57 pm
Blood fine effort Tom. Maybe Adam tapped into your project power? It can't be a coincidence, right?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dr_botnik on February 07, 2013, 06:04:50 pm
props to all with the positivity tinge in this thread.

my own YYFY is that ive just sorted a flat and am moving to sheffield YEAH BABYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!! No more excuses for not climbing erryday  :great: I'm well stoked.

BOOM ting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on February 07, 2013, 06:09:54 pm
Did you fall from there??

Noooo. This is the yyfy thread :) went second go \o/

awesome tomtom. been following the videos of your attempts, well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 07, 2013, 08:06:20 pm
Yes Tom! Well done!
 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on February 07, 2013, 09:41:51 pm
Well done TT  ;D
In one sense I'll miss reading about your attempts, hope you get another project to write about soon


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 07, 2013, 09:42:30 pm
Thanks everyone... And thanks for all the support and encouragement over the last few months - it has been much appreciated and really helped. Time for the next obsession now! :)

rough edit here
http://vimeo.com/59181590
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on February 07, 2013, 09:47:53 pm
Like the way you loved/patted the rock at the end.
I hate that "YES me man you rock" thing that people do when they do a problem
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 07, 2013, 09:59:57 pm
Thanks everyone... And thanks for all the support and encouragement over the last few months - it has been much appreciated and really helped. Time for the next obsession now! :)

rough edit here
http://vimeo.com/59181590 (http://vimeo.com/59181590)

excellent, nice one Tom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on February 07, 2013, 10:03:36 pm
Brilliant tom tom, that's well deserved  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 07, 2013, 10:10:59 pm
Thanks everyone... And thanks for all the support and encouragement over the last few months - it has been much appreciated and really helped. Time for the next obsession now! :)

rough edit here
http://vimeo.com/59181590 (http://vimeo.com/59181590)

doesn't look too hard from here


nice one Tom
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2013, 11:14:09 pm
I like the way that from all of this, I have no idea what grade the Keel is. Only that it's a cool problem and a big satisfying challenge you put the effort into  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ianto9 on February 08, 2013, 02:16:13 am
my m8 did his first 7b(without realizing)then straight after his first 7a+ tonight,all in the mind sometimes n1 dan
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 08, 2013, 07:33:50 am
the siege is over. What you going to do now to distract you on your journey from manc to hell (sic) and back?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 08, 2013, 09:12:43 am
Yeeeaaaaaaah! Good one TomTom. Inspiring battle!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on February 08, 2013, 10:28:05 am
Must have been the weight shaving hair cut!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hobblingfool on February 08, 2013, 10:28:16 am
Nice on TT, made it look easy in the end. Will be making a visit to Almscliff, no doubt it will feel very hard in reality.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on February 08, 2013, 11:08:01 am
NICE ONE TOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:
What's next?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on February 08, 2013, 05:15:59 pm
Had a stolen hour at cow and calf in the bitter wind this afternoon. Got really close to superset which has been 'mildly frustrating me' this year (read p***ing me off). Did it years ago and couldn't get close last time I tried. Fell of the last move going for the jug. Hit the sloper instead. I know what to now...next time  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on February 09, 2013, 09:56:21 pm
YYFY, my copy of Llanberis Slate arrived today. Can get properly psyched for the Muenchen DAV North Wales Expedition now.

Excellent customer service from The Book Depository UK - a previous copy got lost in the post somewhere between Wales and Bavaria, and when I asked where it was they sent a replacement promptly and with no hassle.

After a quick thumb through, I fond myself nodding in agreement with a review I recall reading somewhere that described this a possibly the best climbing guidebook ever written. Would it be ok, etiquette wise, to just pick any random ukb post by Simon P and wad him for it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 09, 2013, 10:26:08 pm
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18353.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18353.0.html)

As good a place as any?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 10, 2013, 11:28:58 am
Did a problem yesterday I've been trying for a few sessions. Hardest I've climbed in well over a year. Feeling pretty good at the moment!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 10, 2013, 01:46:29 pm
Hardest I've climbed since 2010 apparently  :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 11, 2013, 01:15:56 pm
Don't be afraid to namedrop it, Andy. What problem?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 11, 2013, 01:29:19 pm
Only Half The Story, Whitehouses. See Power Club for a blow-by-blow recounting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on February 12, 2013, 10:54:49 am
Had a stolen hour at cow and calf in the bitter wind this afternoon. Got really close to superset which has been 'mildly frustrating me' this year (read p***ing me off). Did it years ago and couldn't get close last time I tried. Fell of the last move going for the jug. Hit the sloper instead. I know what to now...next time  :strongbench:

Tick ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 13, 2013, 10:57:50 am
I just got a promotion and a 20% pay rise :)  :dance1:  :beer2:
and I found my missing chalk bag
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 13, 2013, 11:23:24 am
Where was your chalk bag in the end?  Under the car seat? :clown:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 13, 2013, 11:24:31 am
I just got a promotion and a 20% pay rise :)  :dance1:  :beer2:
and I found my missing chalk bag

Excellent ;)

To continue the YYFYing, I've just booked flights to Boulder for the end of March.. away for a week, 2 1/2 days of meeting - rest for exploring/bouldering :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 13, 2013, 11:25:58 am
Nice one. Shout if you want some local info. Esp if skiing is planned.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 13, 2013, 11:27:00 am
Nice one. Shout if you want some local info. Esp if skiing is planned.

Great - will do closer to the time.. expect it'll just be exploring/try and get some climbing done/mini road trip styleee
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 13, 2013, 11:28:26 am
Where was your chalk bag in the end?  Under the car seat? :clown:
:-[ in my bouldering mat. I cleaned my entire house trying to find it then I looked in there  :-[
 :slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 13, 2013, 11:30:38 am
At least you have a clean house now too...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 13, 2013, 11:32:09 am
Nice one. Shout if you want some local info. Esp if skiing is planned.

Great - will do closer to the time.. expect it'll just be exploring/try and get some climbing done/mini road trip styleee

Get in touch with Blunk too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on February 13, 2013, 04:07:06 pm
Where was your chalk bag in the end?  Under the car seat? :clown:
:-[ in my bouldering mat. I cleaned my entire house trying to find it then I looked in there  :-[
 :slap:

Did you find Shark's passport?

I thought I had lost my climbing wall yearly pass last week, but then found it two days later in the pocket of my climbing trousers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 14, 2013, 06:13:29 pm
Big YYFY with a little side of NNFN -

Nat secured a sabbatical for our trip today after one of her bosses emailed HR telling them to do whatever she wants so she'll come back. YYFY.

Sunday I sold our lovely little vRS (to act as a bit more of a financial buffer), which took me ages to find (in good condition) and that I'd intended to own until it died, needlessly!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 14, 2013, 07:05:12 pm
Big YYFY with a little side of NNFN -

Nat secured a sabbatical for our trip today after one of her bosses emailed HR telling them to do whatever she wants so she'll come back. YYFY.

Sunday I sold our lovely little vRS (to act as a bit more of a financial buffer), which took me ages to find (in good condition) and that I'd intended to own until it died, needlessly!

Come on Paul, look on the bright side - who doesn't like car shopping? Me and a mate at work spent our whole lunch break today coming up with increasingly ludicrous ideas for his step-son's first car...

BM this time round then word? I found some decent looking 328i Coupes for a surprisingly small amount of cash!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on February 14, 2013, 07:38:09 pm




 I found some decent looking 328i Coupes for a surprisingly small amount of cash!



Not unsurprising really. It's difficult to shift a gas guzzling, rear wheel drive piece of crap that costs a bomb to maintain and is about as useful as a skateboard in the snow.


Ps sorry you lost your car Paul.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 14, 2013, 08:43:59 pm
Big YYFY with a little side of NNFN -

Nat secured a sabbatical for our trip today after one of her bosses emailed HR telling them to do whatever she wants so she'll come back. YYFY.

Sunday I sold our lovely little vRS (to act as a bit more of a financial buffer), which took me ages to find (in good condition) and that I'd intended to own until it died, needlessly!

Come on Paul, look on the bright side - who doesn't like car shopping? Me and a mate at work spent our whole lunch break today coming up with increasingly ludicrous ideas for his step-son's first car...

BM this time round then word? I found some decent looking 328i Coupes for a surprisingly small amount of cash!

No matter how good they are, unfortunately not. That'd make her Dad far too smug and I'd never get let out at junctions.

Octavia vRS estate probably, or Seat Exeo if they do one with appropriate levels of fun. I actually had stupendous amounts of fun as a passenger in Littlewads Cooper D (as a passenger), it mightn't be the fastest thing on paper but I had a big smile on my face when I got home (nothing else happened). Suzuki swift sport as a little silly bit of fun perhaps... Ok triple T, maybe you're right, I love it really!

 Not that I've been looking or anything  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 14, 2013, 08:56:51 pm
I got two unexpected items of post today, Valentine's day. From HMRC. One explained the calculations. The other was a decent sized cheque.  :o ...especially since the last time we had dealings, it wasn't very amicable, and I was given a thorough :spank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on February 14, 2013, 08:58:26 pm
Big YYFY with a little side of NNFN -

Nat secured a sabbatical for our trip today after one of her bosses emailed HR telling them to do whatever she wants so she'll come back. YYFY.

Sunday I sold our lovely little vRS (to act as a bit more of a financial buffer), which took me ages to find (in good condition) and that I'd intended to own until it died, needlessly!

I wish I had a boss like that.

Buy one of these (http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=27129)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on February 15, 2013, 12:10:13 am
Fuck that shit.

Go the whole hog, and don't bother about your pad

(http://pictures.topspeed.com/IMG/crop/201011/ariel-atom-v8-500_600x0w.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 15, 2013, 12:29:46 am
I wish I had a boss like that.

Buy one of these (http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=27129)

Both companies she's worked for have had her working on fairly important bid work far above a graduate role so I think doing well in this means she's well valued (rightly so too).

Are you serious with that link, its French? What next an Alfa  :worms:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on February 15, 2013, 06:41:54 am
I wish I had a boss like that.

Buy one of these (http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=27129)

Are you serious with that link, its French? What next an Alfa  :worms:

A slightly tongue in cheek suggestion as my username might suggest I do have a love of French hot hatches but I've had considerably less trouble with any of the 6 French cars I've owned than my brother has had with his 61 plate octavia vrs, his last visit to the dealer involved an engine change :o

He also has a photo of him jump starting it off his lotus which is massively ironic for people who like to stereotype reliability by manufacturer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on February 15, 2013, 11:08:10 am
FONT!!!!!!!  :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

That is all...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 15, 2013, 11:47:34 am
Just been discharged from hospital. Saw the consultant who operated on me. He's very happy with how the bone has healed and the recovery I've made from what he said was a "devastating injury". Can start jumping off etc. Made up. YYFY!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on February 15, 2013, 11:52:14 am
Nice one!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 15, 2013, 11:55:22 am
Nice one jasper!
You going to the climbing works or the broadfield to celebrate?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 15, 2013, 12:49:57 pm
Unfortunately I'm celebrating by doing some urgent work. A few celebratory pull ups and then the pub in a bit though.......  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on February 15, 2013, 01:10:00 pm
Surgeon doesn't want to touch my ankle until May. Glad i didn't have to explain that although it's fecked, i can still ski and climb on it, and please could you schedule op after i've done a week of both....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 15, 2013, 04:17:20 pm
Excellent news Jasper! Still a couple of months of scrittle season left ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on February 17, 2013, 09:56:39 pm
Did Gorilla Warfare today- my first 7A.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on February 17, 2013, 10:42:09 pm
think i may have spotted you. was a good effort, done in fine style. i had a good moment later in the day flashing ultimate grit experience which although not hard in grade im so bad at flashing things i was well chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 17, 2013, 11:50:54 pm
Is ultimate grit experience the huggy prow thing or next to it? If so good effort on finding it I looked for an hr n found nothing
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 18, 2013, 12:21:18 pm
Gorilla is a very fun problem, proper indoor wall climbing style for grit.

Dragging t'bird into t'bog should have been a YYFY too??


Dense, UGE is up in the woods near the edge, just above a slanting track, HTH.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 18, 2013, 01:07:48 pm
Is ultimate grit experience the huggy prow thing or next to it? If so good effort on finding it I looked for an hr n found nothing

Keep on walking along the path that goes past trackside for about 1/2 or 3/4 of a mile and its next to the path as it rises up through woodland. A good block, and UGE is a great problem!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 18, 2013, 01:48:38 pm
UGE was a proper walk in and a bit of a dissapointment from what I remember.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on February 18, 2013, 02:13:52 pm
At least you found it. Hope you had a map and compass for your expedition.

I really liked UGE and recommend people hunt it out when talking about Curbar.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 18, 2013, 02:19:35 pm
UGE was a proper walk in and a bit of a dissapointment from what I remember.

 :lol: You could walk from Curbar Gap to The Grouse and it would just about register as a proper walk!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on February 18, 2013, 02:54:05 pm
It is a little bit of a walk, but after you have ticked UGE if you carry on onto the edge and head back towards the main crag proper you can do a nice main crag far end 6c circuit including Cloud Cuckoo Land, Art of Japan, Last light etc.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on February 18, 2013, 03:39:51 pm
:lol: You could walk from Curbar Gap to The Grouse and it would just about register as a proper walk!

I'm more used to the Parisellas and Bowderstone approaches, so it came as a bit of a shock to the system!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on February 18, 2013, 03:52:19 pm
I think UGE is great - its well worth the 12 minutes walk from Trackside
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 18, 2013, 04:45:35 pm
Must have walked straight past it, after all some of the probs on that block are Percy's
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on February 18, 2013, 06:25:45 pm
was easy to find following the guidebook discription and well worth it if you like fridge hugging. also did art of japan on way back along the top which was good but made all the better by the exposed feeling you get being next to a big drop.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 18, 2013, 09:55:38 pm
12 minute walk?? Roadside then.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 19, 2013, 09:27:27 am
They have paths n all down there  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 19, 2013, 09:37:50 am
Just back from a holiday in Antalya; had a great time and now proper chuffed (pun intended... sorry) for the coming season.   Terrible start: snow-pocalypse led to missed flight, so had to pay for a extra one-way trip the next day (still, you can't take it with you).  Then, when we got there, it was unseasonably cold and rained eight days out of ten.  Frequent power cuts and freezing nights spent trying to burn damp wood on a log stove (all my "holiday" clothing went unused: spent the entire holiday wearing the warm-weather clothes I had worn in the UK!).

Still, we managed to climb every day and I amassed a pretty healthy ticklist: 36 routes, 23 of which in the 7s.  Mostly on-sight, including on-sights of four 7b's and eight 7a+'s. Before this, I had previously only managed the very occasional 7a/+ on-sight (including last year at the same crags - so not a "holiday grades" effect).  Circumstances generally precluded more than a go or two at any route but I was satisfied to bag three 7b+s too (one of which is now 7c locally), including Black Moon, my nemesis from last year. 

Just so very happy that last year, my first ever proper spell of route climbing, seems to have had a tangible effect (despite not having roped up for almost four months - not even indoors).  Odd to think I am improving at my ripe old age - the benefits of starting late and being shit! Now I am raring to get into the Yorkshire lime; although fully prepared for a spanking from the minging crimps of my comparatively slabby and polished home turf.  Just hope the weather is a bit less wet this year...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 19, 2013, 09:43:16 am
Good trip that moose  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 19, 2013, 10:01:12 am
Nice one Moose..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 19, 2013, 10:46:07 am
So Turkey has loads of soft touch graded routes then ! :)

Nice one sounds like a top trip.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 19, 2013, 11:22:22 am
If it has, I must have avoided them on my trip last year!  What I would say is that, after a year of Malham and Kilnsey, the routes in the F7s all seemed pretty basic and uncomplicated.  Very on-sightable; if the on-sight was blown, a quick fiddle whilst getting in the remaining quick-draws usually found a good enough sequence for RPing next go.

Also it played to my limited skill set: I am weak and slow but pretty good at recovering at semi-rests on steep ground.  I took 50 minutes to on-sight a long, steep F7b called Homme a l'envers at Mevlana - extended shake outs between each panic-stricken section of tufa wrestling - more to clear my senses than anything! 

As a side note for potential visitors, whilst Turkey is good place to accumulate F7 on-sights, the climbs in the low/mid F6 range often seemed hard for the grade.  A lot of F6a+ to 6b+s involved burly tufa wrestling or steep crimping that made them feel far more physical and sustained than the average UK comparator -  more reminiscent of a F6c+ up a big indoor lead wall than the slabby nastiness more common in the low F6s.  Certainly made the "warm-up" interesting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 19, 2013, 12:20:09 pm
Nice one Moose.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 19, 2013, 12:22:05 pm
Great route psyche. 50 minutes on the steep 7b sounds impressive, get that man a trad rack
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 19, 2013, 12:29:17 pm
well done Luke.
Now you just need tremelo to dry so you can focus on raindogs  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 19, 2013, 12:36:36 pm
Great route psyche. 50 minutes on the steep 7b sounds impressive, get that man a trad rack

+1, 50 min of staying power - impressive. (I have never been able to recover on a good hold.. my arms just dont seem to work like that..)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 19, 2013, 12:37:37 pm
Nice one Moose.  :thumbsup:

Cheers, your professional advice to speed up might not have been in evidence (as my partner's stiff neck will attest); but that coaching trip left me with valuable general know-how for working routes and a new willingness to "have a go" that has definitely had benefits.  By the way, if you have any future trips planned let me know.  As always, I am up for domestic route action most weekends too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 19, 2013, 12:57:07 pm
I have never been able to recover on a good hold.. my arms just dont seem to work like that.

Me neither. A partial depump is the best I ever get. That's limpet like staying power.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 19, 2013, 12:59:02 pm
I have never been able to recover on a good hold.. my arms just dont seem to work like that.

Me neither. A partial depump is the best I ever get. That's limpet like staying power.

I once managed to spend well over two hours on a route at Kilnsey. Those were the days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 19, 2013, 01:02:20 pm
+1, 50 min of staying power - impressive. (I have never been able to recover on a good hold.. my arms just dont seem to work like that..)

Being composed entirely of slow-twitch muscle has some benefits.  What I have found is that even when a rest initially doesn't feel like it is any good, it can be worth persevering with.  At first you might think that you are not getting anything back, but, after a while, the heart stops racing, the senses clear, and the benefit becomes more obvious.  Though sometimes I think it's more a matter of relaxing and recovering mental composure than a physical effect.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 19, 2013, 01:03:26 pm
Sounds like a great trip Moose congratulations.

If you put the stamina to use be mindful of tide times on sea cliffs (I once spent an hour and a half sat in the cave at the bottom of Strait Gate watching the tide come in hoping I wouldn't get soaked as my mate spent ages faffing around leading it recovering on almost every move).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 19, 2013, 01:21:34 pm
I have never been able to recover on a good hold.. my arms just dont seem to work like that.

Me neither. A partial depump is the best I ever get. That's limpet like staying power.

I once managed to spend well over two hours on a route at Kilnsey. Those were the days.

bloody hell! Did you take your lunch and a flask? ;)

I like the idea of recovering even when you think you're not recovering Moose... sadly my hands just let go instead :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 19, 2013, 01:58:20 pm
Sounds like a great trip Moose congratulations.

If you put the stamina to use be mindful of tide times on sea cliffs (I once spent an hour and a half sat in the cave at the bottom of Strait Gate watching the tide come in hoping I wouldn't get soaked as my mate spent ages faffing around leading it recovering on almost every move).

I had to move up onto the top of the block when belaying on Rock Idol while my mate had clipped into some gear (but not weighted it) as the tide had come up to mky knees. Also belayed GF in thigh deep water on Pain Pillar at Aberdour. And then seconded her with wet ropes slapping me in the face. It's OK though, I got revenge on the HVS just to the right 2 weeks later (and she's a lot shorter than me!).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andymarshll on February 19, 2013, 09:26:23 pm
Only about 4 weeks after starting bouldering again after an (arguably minor) bicep tear, went to nant gwynant and sent going down on an elephant and tusk. Two new ticks in a session, one pretty much as hard as i've ever done   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 19, 2013, 09:42:33 pm
Yesterday - best grit day ever.....
1st 7b flash
2nd 7b flash..
plus 2 more 7b's and a host of other stuff..
Gonna need to to set my sights higher
Might be a good year.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: leeroy on February 19, 2013, 09:56:07 pm
nice one! what were they?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on February 20, 2013, 12:27:10 am
Had a session on Left Hand Man just after doing Dick Williams 2 years ago. So nearly topped out. I think I got to the pocket, but dropped it trying to match it. Finally went back again tonight, had completely forgotten my beta, so watched Nai's Secrets of the Garden beforehand. Tried it his way. Totally shut down (Nai you're a beast). Ended up trying my lanky mate's beta which I dismissed 2 years ago. Fucking nailed it! Happy days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on February 20, 2013, 10:44:55 am
Discovered a new area today that's at least the size of Sabot..... Time to clean...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 20, 2013, 11:43:17 am
Nice, what area? (stress not, I won't encrouch on your territory) Are you in touch with any of the other UKBers in Oz?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on February 20, 2013, 12:03:43 pm
Nice, what area? (stress not, I won't encrouch on your territory) Are you in touch with any of the other UKBers in Oz?
Nearish to Nowra.
Couple of pics here: http://jackfolkes.blogspot.com/2013/02/new-discovery.html (http://jackfolkes.blogspot.com/2013/02/new-discovery.html)

Na I'm not yet. Been meaning to get in contact with them.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 20, 2013, 12:38:43 pm
Carnage, BB and nick fletcher (username eludes me) are all Sydneyish based, but i think they seem to hibernate from climbing over the summer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on February 20, 2013, 03:38:01 pm
ET sent home

:dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on February 20, 2013, 03:43:09 pm
Well done captain.
Good connies today I would imagine.


What next ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 20, 2013, 03:43:28 pm
Nice one Shark.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 20, 2013, 03:44:26 pm
Good one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on February 20, 2013, 03:50:31 pm
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on February 20, 2013, 04:35:50 pm
Well done captain.
Good connies today I would imagine.


What next ?

Connietastic here

Ethan and Sam hv done Fat Slapper (without slapping ) ;D


Trying the Reverse now
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on February 20, 2013, 04:35:50 pm
Congrats on ticking that shark  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 20, 2013, 04:38:24 pm
About bloody time, IO1, the forum is in safe hands again :)

Dr T we need names, stars, descriptions and how awesome the problems were...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on February 20, 2013, 05:17:34 pm
ET sent home

:dance1:

I don't believe for a minute you lost your passport  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 20, 2013, 06:11:31 pm
ET sent home

:dance1:

I don't believe for a minute you lost your passport  ;)

:D

Good effort Shark - great to see it fall.

A mini YYFY for me today, as I finally sent Beachball - my slopey nemesis.. She put up a fight but succumbed to some slapping and only one knee was required ;)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 20, 2013, 06:34:11 pm
nice one! what were they?
Sauvito and mp3 were the flashes
Asylum Sika and Monochrome were the other two
Thought I did Asylum Sika a in a rather uncultured and thuggish fashion after giving up on Bonjoy's elegant twisty beta - one of the disadvantages of having had a disc remove is I can no longer "twist like we did last (actually quite a few) summer(s ago)"

Also flashed Bonjoy's new 7a+ at Birchen (Iron eyes) (http://peakbouldering.info/problems/4105)) which I am now informed is also 7b the way I did it  :2thumbsup:
So make that my 3rd 7b flash!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 20, 2013, 09:10:06 pm
Great stuff Dr T. 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2013, 10:32:04 am
Did it make your day?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 21, 2013, 01:39:34 pm
Did it make your day?
If this ques was aimed at moi then aye, it did thanks - actually since it's half term it made my week...
Roll on Easter and Font
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on February 21, 2013, 02:17:16 pm
nice one! what were they?
Sauvito and mp3 were the flashes
Asylum Sika and Monochrome were the other two
Thought I did Asylum Sika a in a rather uncultured and thuggish fashion after giving up on Bonjoy's elegant twisty beta - one of the disadvantages of having had a disc remove is I can no longer "twist like we did last (actually quite a few) summer(s ago)"

Also flashed Bonjoy's new 7a+ at Birchen (Iron eyes) (http://peakbouldering.info/problems/4105)) which I am now informed is also 7b the way I did it  :2thumbsup:
So make that my 3rd 7b flash!

Good work! Out of interest, what was your beta on Asylum Sika? Still worth 7b? The start hold is marginally better since I glued it (more positive as glue level lower than before) but I don’t think this would affect things much.
What did you think of Iron Eyes? I thought the new beta added some difficulty but wasn’t sure if it pushed it from 7a+ to 7b or not. Like you I did MP3 the same day, which I thought was a fair bit easier (but I did climb this quite different to vids I've seen of other folk on it), hence going for 7b.  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2013, 02:28:30 pm
Did it make your day?
If this ques was aimed at moi then aye, it did thanks - actually since it's half term it made my week...
Roll on Easter and Font

It was intended as a crap "eatswood" related joke, but stoked you had an incandescent session too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on February 21, 2013, 05:36:51 pm
Good work! Out of interest, what was your beta on Asylum Sika? Still worth 7b? The start hold is marginally better since I glued it (more positive as glue level lower than before) but I don’t think this would affect things much.
What did you think of Iron Eyes? I thought the new beta added some difficulty but wasn’t sure if it pushed it from 7a+ to 7b or not. Like you I did MP3 the same day, which I thought was a fair bit easier (but I did climb this quite different to vids I've seen of other folk on it), hence going for 7b.  :-\

Cheers Bonjoy

Asylum Sika - Had played on it before and didn't notice a discernible difference to the start hold or at least how it affected the climb. I had tried your method before - though I was just too tired on that session so went back to go again - alas (as it looks such a cool move) whilst I could get the left hand over and to the hold I could twist my way through to get the body underneath it. Instead I started cross handed, fired the right  hand up to the hold (feet essentially pasted on nothing - ended up pretty much a campus move), put the left foot on the smear out left and toe hooked like hell round the base of the arete, brought the left hand to the poorer hold just under the right hand, the fired the right to the lip etc.. to be honest felt more like 7b+ but I readily accept it was bad beta (I've grown to live with having to do the odd problem a harder way, or indeed not do it, since my back op)

Iron eyes - great problem - pulled on with my feet on the block and the put them up so not quite as described but a little different from the first inscription. Flashed it do probably did use the best beta, certainly the foot placements were different to yours (no drop knee) but the end but I do remember doing with a really cool left heel hook/jam in the big pocket that is the first hand hold you go for after pulling on - as for the grade, difficult as it was a flash but will take either tricky 7a+ or 7b but then again I might not have used the bast beta.

Compared to mp3 I thought it was a touch trickier but then mp3 is a pull, throw, pull, throw type thing the way I did it and that suits me just fine (certainly wouldn't go with the "hard" 7b vote on pb.com) iron eyes seemed more subtle - now I really think about it iron eyes did seem in the same ballpark as Sauvito.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on February 21, 2013, 06:18:46 pm
Rather than write it all out again:

Had a session on Left Hand Man The Art of White Hat Wearing just after doing Dick Williams 2 years ago. So nearly topped out. I think I got to the pocket, but dropped it trying to match it I got to within one move of the top. Finally went back again tonight this afternoon, had completely forgotten my beta, so watched Nai's Secrets of the Garden beforehand someone else do it. Tried it his way. Totally shut down (Nai you're a beast). Ended up trying my lanky mate's beta which I dismissed 2 years ago. Fucking nailed it! Happy days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on February 21, 2013, 07:01:07 pm
Nice one Drew for Art of.. its a class problem!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on February 21, 2013, 08:14:08 pm
Cheers Dr T. That Asylum beta sounds desperate! Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Drew on February 22, 2013, 03:11:32 pm
This is just getting silly now

Rather than write it all out again:

Had a session on Left Hand Man The Art of White Hat Wearing Famous Grouse just after doing Dick Williams 2 years ago. So nearly topped out. I think I got to the pocket, but dropped it trying to match it I got to within one move of the top. Finally went back again tonight this afternoon this morning, had completely forgotten my beta, so watched Nai's Secrets of the Garden beforehand someone else do try it. Tried it his way. Totally shut down (Nai you're a beast). Ended up trying my lanky mate's beta which I dismissed 2 years ago. Fucking nailed it! Happy days. Then both guys who's beta I was using did it straight after. Awesome morning!

Also going to Font on Tuesday. Fingers crossed this form continues.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 22, 2013, 07:06:49 pm
YYFY, took the afternoon off work and flashed Nosferatu. Light flutter of snow, good group of mates, magic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: b3n99 on February 23, 2013, 10:48:21 pm
Really good effort Guy, nice when it all comes together.

Had a major YYFY today, finally getting up West Side Story. Tickled the jug first time then sent with a major scream the next. Sorry to anyone who was planning on a calm, quiet afternoon in the Burbage Valley.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on February 23, 2013, 11:00:06 pm
ET sent home

:dance1:


Good work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 23, 2013, 11:09:01 pm
Hope someone gets A YYFY on the north face of burbage tomorrow to complete the set

Sorry to anyone who was planning on a calm, quiet afternoon in the Burbage Valley.

+1, I've been watching too much Dan Honeyman
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 24, 2013, 11:09:05 am
YYFY! On good rungs though.

 Campusing 158 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60316543)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 24, 2013, 08:49:17 pm
Just done Brin Done Before at Brin, 3 years after I first spotted it. Not hard but high, committing, amazing, and the last of the big 3 awesome problems I wanted to do this winter (Gale Force and Le Toit Du Cold De Mouton being the others).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richieb on February 24, 2013, 09:05:09 pm
Nice one :2thumbsup: Out of interest, is the 'no parking, private' etc sign still on the fence?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 24, 2013, 09:34:35 pm
Ta  :). It is. Since that dead end patch of turf is clearly so useful to the owners and critical to land management, I parked on the verge opposite.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richieb on February 24, 2013, 10:01:16 pm
Yeah its all a bit weird.
Good effort on the problem anyway, I remember sketching about on the top out.
What kind of nick are the other boulders in? Not been for ages.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 24, 2013, 10:18:29 pm
I must confess I dismounted onto the tree on a couple of attempts, before finding the right heelhook.

The other boulders were in mixed nick....mostly due to it sleeting on and off despite the dry and sunny forecast this morning. I guess as usual many things needed a brush/trim on top but the underlying rock is as good as ever.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ali k on February 27, 2013, 10:09:37 pm
This morning, 8 weeks after dislocating my shoulder, I did an 8a in Siurana. Happy man  :dance1:
(and it was a /+ in the guide)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 27, 2013, 11:03:28 pm
'Effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on February 28, 2013, 09:57:33 am
This morning, 8 weeks after dislocating my shoulder, I did an 8a in Siurana. Happy man  :dance1:
(and it was a /+ in the guide)

Good effort buddy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on March 01, 2013, 06:47:19 pm
This morning, 8 weeks after dislocating my shoulder, I did an 8a in Siurana. Happy man  :dance1:
(and it was a /+ in the guide)

Great news. What happens if you do the other? 8b?!

Failed again on terry today, but made progress. And I checked Wed's lottery ticket. 3 numbers and the bonus ball. Get in!!!!!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2013, 08:55:37 pm
What did that net you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 01, 2013, 10:29:22 pm
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/13128_485017971554274_584893290_n.jpg)
Repeated the Prow at Middle Hope today (FB pic of James above). Bit sharp, and damp today, but really good line and moves, plus I've not been on rock since the beginning of Dec. Anyway, thanks Beastly Squirrel for pointing me at it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on March 01, 2013, 10:42:43 pm
What did that net you?
Ten English Pounds  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on March 01, 2013, 10:48:45 pm
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/13128_485017971554274_584893290_n.jpg)
Repeated the Prow at Middle Hope today (FB pic of James above). Bit sharp, and damp today, but really good line and moves, plus I've not been on rock since the beginning of Dec. Anyway, thanks Beastly Squirrel for pointing me at it.

Nice looking spot
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 01, 2013, 11:01:07 pm
discharged from the ankle mending department at the Northern General today

 :dance1:

I've got far better function than was expected and would rather have the pain than get the joint fused - I'll go back when this balance changes

there's a bit of a gap still where the blue arrow is pointing and a couple of chippings floating about, but nothing is rotting it works pretty well

(http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/792/img0778small.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 02, 2013, 03:13:38 am
Fuck me lagers, and I thought you was just making excuses
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 02, 2013, 07:50:14 am
Fuck me lagers

wait your turn like everyone else

and I thought you was just making excuses

there's no excuse for my laziness
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 02, 2013, 08:36:54 am
Good screws sir.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on March 02, 2013, 07:03:11 pm
An absolutely beautiful day in the Peak today, and three routes/problems that I've wanted to do for ages ticked off the list - Pebble Mill, The Alliance and Piss.  YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on March 02, 2013, 10:02:16 pm
 :unsure:
An absolutely beautiful day in the Peak today, and three routes/problems that I've wanted to do for ages ticked off the list - Pebble Mill, The Alliance and Piss.  YYFY!

Great day!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 03, 2013, 04:18:58 pm
Nice one lagers! Should have got a photo of my X-ray to compare metalwork.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 03, 2013, 09:18:08 pm
You two just can't resist comparing rods eh...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 04, 2013, 07:17:52 pm
Pffft  ;)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3323/3177365938_34632fe4c5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/3177365938/)
xray3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/3177365938/#) by Hunta_998 (http://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr



Glad to hear you're mending well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 05, 2013, 12:29:47 pm
Jesus Christ.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on March 05, 2013, 09:10:20 pm
on saturday we went to hen cloud and johnny dawes and doney joined us.we had a rope 'night prowler' an e6 in did in 2005.its yet to have a 2nd ascent everyone was really enjoying the climbing on the route .j.d said 'thats a fine first ascent to have in your quiver'
accolade from the grit master=a very happy me
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 05, 2013, 09:28:52 pm
 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 05, 2013, 09:42:29 pm
Johnny once described me as 'the best climber in the world.' He was drunk.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: biscuit on March 05, 2013, 09:45:18 pm
on saturday we went to hen cloud and johnny dawes and doney joined us.we had a rope 'night prowler' an e6 in did in 2005.its yet to have a 2nd ascent everyone was really enjoying the climbing on the route .j.d said 'thats a fine first ascent to have in your quiver'
accolade from the grit master=a very happy me

Give up climbing now as it will never get better  :bow:

I wouldn't be able to sleep tonight.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 06, 2013, 08:24:48 pm
I've just been unofficially informed I've been awarded a UK research council grant to the order of a healthy six figure sum. After a few years of depressingly futile unsuccessful applications it looks like one has succeeded :)

My mid week drinking ban has officially been suspended and I have a silly grin on my face :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on March 06, 2013, 08:42:17 pm
That's fuckin' brilliant! Nice one. Go and get pissed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 07, 2013, 09:23:14 am
Surely this is a NNFN as you'll have to do more work and less climbing now?  ;D

Good work tomtom. Can I have some of those six figures to do my PhD please?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 07, 2013, 09:31:11 am
nice one tomtom

studying the causal relationship between flood patterns at Rubicon and grit conditions?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 07, 2013, 09:47:56 am
Great news Tom! Well done.

I'm starting to think I might have a major YYFY in the offing but am desperately trying not to count my chickens.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 07, 2013, 10:17:28 am
Surely this is a NNFN as you'll have to do more work and less climbing now?  ;D

Sadly yes - I could commit mass fraud and run off on a expenses paid global bouldering tour - and my employers would probably not realise for 6 months - but they'd get me in the end...

Good work tomtom. Can I have some of those six figures to do my PhD please?

There is a PhD studentship tied to it - if uncertainty is your bag...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 07, 2013, 10:18:03 am
nice one tomtom

studying the causal relationship between flood patterns at Rubicon and grit conditions?

Fracking potential in Font... ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 07, 2013, 10:26:59 am
if uncertainty is your bag...

Hmmm, I'm not sure it would be.

Fracking potential in Font... ;)

Shame about that moratorium France have imposed on fracking... There's always Northumberland/Yorkshire/Peak/Lincolnshire/Leicestershire though...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 12, 2013, 10:56:39 pm
YYFY! Rarely been so chuffed topping out a problem. Underhand falls to the lantern session!

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 13, 2013, 12:31:14 am
Fantastic Will. Great job :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 13, 2013, 07:04:00 am
The boy done good!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richieb on March 13, 2013, 07:16:10 am
Nice one Will
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on March 13, 2013, 08:45:50 am
Nice one will!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 13, 2013, 09:01:18 am
Good skills Will, that seems to be a frustrating problem for lots of people. Good tick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 13, 2013, 09:09:04 am
Good rock-climbing skills!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on March 14, 2013, 01:02:35 am
Finally did Snatch at the plantation today, think it was my 5th or 6th session on it, went 4th go today. A big winter project done.
So so so chuffed after being pretty dis heartened last session. First 7C+ or 8A too, a very cool move!  :great:

http://vimeo.com/groups/bouldering/videos/61765499 (http://vimeo.com/groups/bouldering/videos/61765499)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 14, 2013, 01:45:13 am
Good effort. Where has the 7c+ come from? It's never been 7c+, it's 8a
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on March 14, 2013, 07:58:47 am
I haven't heard of many people going up with the left hand so figured the 8a was for the original sequence. 
If it is 8A then all the better  ;D

EDIT: Plus its a case of even I've done this so it can't be that hard ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 14, 2013, 11:07:06 am
Nice one. One move 8A is a fine effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: willackers on March 14, 2013, 11:14:47 am
Finally did Snatch at the plantation today, think it was my 5th or 6th session on it, went 4th go today. A big winter project done.
So so so chuffed after being pretty dis heartened last session. First 7C+ or 8A too, a very cool move!  :great:

http://vimeo.com/groups/bouldering/videos/61765499 (http://vimeo.com/groups/bouldering/videos/61765499)

Good effort, it's nails! I might have to try it again with your method.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on March 14, 2013, 12:28:00 pm
looks like a sweet problem
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 14, 2013, 01:41:27 pm
It's shit, but in a good way
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gritlad on March 14, 2013, 01:54:34 pm
It's shit, but in a good way

ahaha, perfectly summed up.
Cheers everyone, Will im sure if you can do the joker you would easily do this!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 14, 2013, 02:00:58 pm
Good dedication to a really nasty looking non-move wonder  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on March 14, 2013, 02:19:31 pm
Good dedication to a really nasty looking non-move wonder  :2thumbsup:

a shot of liquid power climbing to the back of the tonsils, what's not to love?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on March 14, 2013, 08:17:05 pm
drove a fire engine on the road today,not blue lights as that can come later.
going from a truck driver,who are considered the lowest of the low on the roads to driving a big red truck when every stops at round abouts and lets you out at junctions is utter polar opposites.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 14, 2013, 08:24:15 pm
Is it de rigeur to expose your shoulders when driving a fire engine though?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on March 14, 2013, 09:57:01 pm
I regard taxi drivers as the lowest of the low on the roads.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on March 14, 2013, 11:06:08 pm
What about traffic wardens on mopeds? Surely they get a mention?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on March 15, 2013, 07:08:09 pm
Is it de rigeur to expose your shoulders when driving a fire engine though?

hell yeah!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 16, 2013, 03:08:44 pm
I just reached my PB on a problem I se on my board more than one year ago. I nearly stuck the fifth move.
 :yes:
Now I only have to start doing that move with some consistence, and then link that part to the hard bit.
 :wall:
Much more importantly, I am close to deadhanging pink monos.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 16, 2013, 04:24:40 pm
Go Malcio!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on March 20, 2013, 10:34:52 am
Completed my 7b sport project a couple of weeks ago and sent my first 7A boulder yesterday! Very happy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on March 20, 2013, 12:32:16 pm
Nice one  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 20, 2013, 12:36:29 pm
Nice one, nice two!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on March 20, 2013, 12:49:10 pm
Completed my 7b sport project a couple of weeks ago and sent my first 7A boulder yesterday! Very happy!

good effort, was the 7A Voie Normale?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on March 20, 2013, 01:47:33 pm
Cheers guys!

Completed my 7b sport project a couple of weeks ago and sent my first 7A boulder yesterday! Very happy!

good effort, was the 7A Voie Normale?

Cheers, it was Robert Duvall at Pantymwyn. Really good problem.

Unfortunatly Voie Normale was wet when I checked it out on Sunday. So much so I couldn't towel dry it. Looks great though, one to go back for.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 21, 2013, 11:09:31 am
Managed to get a both climbing shoes on (and actually climb in them) for the first time yesterday evening. This is massive for me as I thought I might never get the same size Dragon back on my bad foot with how misshapen it still is (and probably always will be).

Actually climbed three ROUTES at Virgin gym too and although I'm not kidding myself that the grades were anywhere near and I onsighted 7a (it was about 2 grades easier) it was certainly the most / hardest climbing I have done since last June.

Then did jumping onto a crash mat at the physio this morning for the first time which felt ok.

It's all starting to come together and the pain is definitely worth it.  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on March 21, 2013, 10:23:25 pm
That's fantastic!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on March 22, 2013, 10:53:27 am
Nice one Jasper.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2013, 11:19:20 am
I've got the Key (go on someone say it).

DIY starts tomorrow, move in when it's done. Then woody construction starts!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 22, 2013, 12:31:56 pm
DIY starts tomorrow, move in when it's done. Then woody construction starts!
Build the woody, move in, THEN do all the rest!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 22, 2013, 12:34:10 pm
I've got the Key (go on someone say it).

 I've Got The Secret?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2013, 01:33:02 pm
Thank you.

Lore, some minor work to be done (mostly by others, but I need to do some too), then phase 1 of woody build begins, just something to tide me over for the summer, then I'll crack on with next phases later in the year. Double garage so loads of space to play with.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 22, 2013, 03:35:14 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 22, 2013, 04:53:02 pm
Font tomorrow... yes I know it's raining but it might clear up
and it definitely means term is over  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 22, 2013, 09:09:10 pm
Font tomorrow... yes I know it's raining but it might clear up
and it definitely means term is over  :thumbsup:

given your recent form and even just one day of good weather, there should be some more YYFY posts coming soon
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on March 23, 2013, 06:18:23 pm
I met Sasha diguilian today at bruixes and she borrowed my guidebook. I also climbed my first 7b (jam sesion) what a day!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 23, 2013, 08:25:11 pm
Font tomorrow... yes I know it's raining but it might clear up
and it definitely means term is over  :thumbsup:

given your recent form and even just one day of good weather, there should be some more YYFY posts coming soon
It's dry... ran out of light pretty much as soon as we got to the rock tonight but the weather looks like it's gonna hold  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 24, 2013, 08:07:14 am
Font tomorrow... yes I know it's raining but it might clear up
and it definitely means term is over  :thumbsup:

given your recent form and even just one day of good weather, there should be some more YYFY posts coming soon
It's dry... ran out of light pretty much as soon as we got to the rock tonight but the weather looks like it's gonna hold  :dance1:

Weather is good - will take Lager's confidence in my abilities rather than my own.. feel weak as the proverbial kitten but hey ho.. being in the forest is worth a YYFY in it's own right
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on March 24, 2013, 08:51:12 am
passed my core skills in the fire service and first person on scene medical training.will be on call later in the week.
then back for 2 weeks of breathing apparatus training.
was bloody hard work but was good,having a water fight with a fire engine and a hose that needed 2 people to hold was a laugh.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 24, 2013, 10:29:12 am
Thank you.

Lore, some minor work to be done (mostly by others, but I need to do some too), then phase 1 of woody build begins, just something to tide me over for the summer, then I'll crack on with next phases later in the year. Double garage so loads of space to play with.

Got the tape measure out got at least 8.5 ft height my 12 ft wide to play with. No limitation on angle. Decisions decisions!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 28, 2013, 06:30:30 pm
The Italian edition of Troll Wall, that I translated last spring, won the first prize at the ITAS Mountain Book Festival!!!
Really happy about that!!!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 28, 2013, 06:38:30 pm
That's quality. Nice one Lore!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 28, 2013, 07:19:34 pm
Fantastic Nibs. Hope it came with a nice cheque.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on March 28, 2013, 07:37:32 pm
Awesome story in any language, group of teenagers rock up to the continent's highest, wettest crag and climb it in Peter Storm cagoules, should be made into a film really.

Nice one Nibs, good work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 28, 2013, 09:07:41 pm
I might as well join in. At the weekend I was offered the editorship of the top journals in my field. In terms of career the last six months have been way beyond all expectation - climbing has definitely suffered though. I suppose its up to me to address the balance.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 28, 2013, 09:11:03 pm
nice one Poppstar! good news nibs.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 28, 2013, 09:15:57 pm
Fantastic Nibs. Hope it came with a nice cheque.
Given the current circumstances, I've been lucky that the cheque was not made of toilet paper...
Great satisfaction though.
And congrats Andy!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 28, 2013, 09:47:21 pm
Fantastic Nibs. Hope it came with a nice cheque.
Given the current circumstances, I've been lucky that the cheque was not made of toilet paper...
Great satisfaction though.

It doesn't matter what its made of, its what its written on it that counts.

Important typo in mine: it shoud have read 'one of the top etc.' We're talking big fish/small pond stuff.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 28, 2013, 09:55:51 pm
Meh I'd rather edit the JGS than anything like New Scientist or anything bigger. ..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 28, 2013, 11:29:26 pm
I might as well join in. At the weekend I was offered the editorship of the top journals in my field. In terms of career the last six months have been way beyond all expectation - climbing has definitely suffered though. I suppose its up to me to address the balance.

Work hard, play harder...

Nothing new, you all know. Just adding my little piece of personal perspective.

Respect Andy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 30, 2013, 01:28:37 am
did secret seventh today. well chuffed because I've been trying it on and off for years! conditions on it were brilliant and I finally worked out good beta for it. the moves are ace!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on March 30, 2013, 08:35:39 am
Nice one. It's great when everything comes together on this one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csl on March 30, 2013, 10:02:59 am
I won a Parkrun! A very slow one, but a win all the same.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on March 30, 2013, 07:57:56 pm
Did Jason's Roof yesterday, been wanting to try it for years, Mina's beta worked a treat. YYFY  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on March 31, 2013, 08:28:45 pm
Weather is good - will take Lager's confidence in my abilities rather than my own.. feel weak as the proverbial kitten but hey ho.. being in the forest is worth a YYFY in it's own right

Well, the kitten weakness was down to a nasty head cold - the things I did climb were definitely enabled by Beechams.

Didn't necessarily climb as much as I would have liked - 5 days on the trot with no rest wasn't necessarily the best idea but the threat of snow (which never came) made rest days seem a poor idea

anyways this is the YYFY thread so...

First 7c (http://bleau.info/envers/9895.html) in the forest - YYFY
Climbed with Neil H and Dan O (http://www.bouldersgate.blogspot.co.uk/) again YYFY
Jr T (aged 4) climbed all 29 problems of a 5-8 year old's circuit that I can't remember the name of just north Merciers YYFY
Had a brilliant last day sent on an excellent problem Pierrot (http://bleau.info/marion/12373.html) which I only decided to look at as an after thought... YYFY - 5 star problem
Left with a longer tick list than I went with - as always
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 31, 2013, 11:32:23 pm
Well. Snowballing's a bit fucking brilliant isn't it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 01, 2013, 12:20:18 am
Just had a fantastic day bouldering at Horsetooth with Blunk.
15-20 degrees in bright sunshine, cold perfect sandstone and I got to try and see some of the classic John Gill creations. Tired and happy. What it's all about :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on April 01, 2013, 08:55:08 am
Finally ticked Tremelo on Saturday - after months of being thwarted by seepage so selective that I once suspected a deliberate evil was at work. 

Unfortunately though it looks like I might be the last person to have done the route as a 7c.  On Sunday, someone pulled a jug from the route - reportedly making the pre-crux section much more sustained.....   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 01, 2013, 02:18:41 pm
I might as well join in. At the weekend I was offered the editorship of the top journals in my field. In terms of career the last six months have been way beyond all expectation - climbing has definitely suffered though. I suppose its up to me to address the balance.

So the move to Scotland never came to fruition? My brother had a meeting with the VC at Stirling Uni recently, and it made me think of your possible move.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on April 01, 2013, 03:11:47 pm
Finally ticked Tremelo on Saturday - after months of being thwarted by seepage so selective that I once suspected a deliberate evil was at work. 

Unfortunately though it looks like I might be the last person to have done the route as a 7c.  On Sunday, someone pulled a jug from the route - reportedly making the pre-crux section much more sustained.....   

Nice one moose
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on April 02, 2013, 12:26:00 pm
Punterdom - but epic fun times had in the forest and ticked a couple of 6a's which am chuffed with. Nearly got a 6b too but there's only so much crimping I could manage in 3 days :D

Huge consumption of patisserie goods too.

YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ianv on April 02, 2013, 05:49:15 pm
Finally ticked Tremelo on Saturday - after months of being thwarted by seepage so selective that I once suspected a deliberate evil was at work. 

Unfortunately though it looks like I might be the last person to have done the route as a 7c.  On Sunday, someone pulled a jug from the route - reportedly making the pre-crux section much more sustained.....   

Nice one moose

Look on the bright side, someone has just pushed your tick up to 7c+ :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 02, 2013, 06:38:12 pm
 :devangel: :ohmy:
Just had a fantastic day bouldering at Horsetooth with Blunk.
15-20 degrees in bright sunshine, cold perfect sandstone and I got to try and see some of the classic John Gill creations. Tired and happy. What it's all about :)

 8) as f*ck!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on April 02, 2013, 10:53:46 pm
Despite failing to achieve any of the goals I set myself before this font trip,
I am nevertheless calling it a huge success because I saw - in the flesh - Fred Nicole!

I think my year has been made  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tesla on April 03, 2013, 12:49:09 am
:devangel: :ohmy:
Just had a fantastic day bouldering at Horsetooth with Blunk.
15-20 degrees in bright sunshine, cold perfect sandstone and I got to try and see some of the classic John Gill creations. Tired and happy. What it's all about :)

 8) as f*ck!

Glad it worked out for you, sounds like a great day out. =)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 03, 2013, 07:31:42 pm
I went climbing today for the first time in nearly 6 weeks, since the ill fated St Bees epic touching the void\clucthing the roids horror trip. Fantastic conditions at the Bowderstone and foot and heel felt fine. Winner.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 03, 2013, 08:35:01 pm
nice one mike! get that psyche back.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on April 03, 2013, 09:32:36 pm
I visited Trowbarrow for the first time on Saturday and bagged myself 'Vitruvian Man' in half a dozen goes.
My mate caught the ascent on his camera:

Vitruvian Man (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNxhZrRVNs4#ws)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on April 04, 2013, 01:06:47 pm
I have got funding for another PhD student.  A Basque university (I thought they had no money) is paying for one of their lecturers to spend 4 years with us looking into neck pain and spinal manipulation.

I also found out today that the student used to climb with Patxi Usobiaga*! 



























*When they were about 12 years old... Paxti was a beast even then apparently.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 04, 2013, 05:50:02 pm
I climb with Micky Page. I climbed with him the night before last. I'm still shit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 04, 2013, 06:49:19 pm
I climb with Micky Page. I climbed with him the night before last. I'm still shit

But Micky isn't. Maybe we should all climb with Dense?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 04, 2013, 06:56:09 pm
I climb with Micky Page. I climbed with him the night before last. I'm still shit

I've not climbed with Micky Page or Paxti - and I'm shitter than Dense..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 04, 2013, 06:57:41 pm
fear not, I'm shitter than thee.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 04, 2013, 07:05:26 pm
fear not, I'm shitter than thee.

Ah, now have you not climbed with Andy Popp as well?
I have, so if you have not climbed with Paxti, Micky and Andy then that makes perfect sense!

  /..SCIENCE....
<...SCIENCE....
  \..SCIENCE....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 04, 2013, 08:08:40 pm
According to my first edition of Paul Williams Snowdonia - as recently dug out of my brother's attic - I climbed with Johnny and Sean Myles.

I'm shitter than all of you in everything except the Punters Who Have Climbed With Wads league.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on April 10, 2013, 10:50:48 pm
First after work session of the year and I spent it snowballing Archangel (only up to the break), Don, White Wand, WW other side and Ulysses. Totally brilliant evening. YYFY. I only wish my old running dog Galpinos could have joined me, but understandably he was a little busy..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on April 13, 2013, 05:51:30 pm
After years of training,failing,injuries,and generally feeling like I was banging my head against a brick wall,I finally bagged my first proper 7C boulder. Chuffed as mintballs;YYFY!!!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 13, 2013, 05:58:11 pm
Sweet. Nice one!  :2thumbsup:

What did you do?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on April 13, 2013, 06:07:15 pm
Cheers! It was Ash Tree Wall up at Fairy Steps.Short,basic and fingery on perfect S Lakes lime;great stuff.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 13, 2013, 06:12:26 pm
 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on April 13, 2013, 07:39:59 pm
ace :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 14, 2013, 03:44:24 pm
I'm so glad you didn't say highline in the snow
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on April 15, 2013, 07:01:56 pm
After years of training,failing,injuries,and generally feeling like I was banging my head against a brick wall,I finally bagged my first proper 7C boulder. Chuffed as mintballs;YYFY!!!  :2thumbsup:

Congrats, you are climbing strong! I had the same experience on the same day as you, coincidentally. I line I had tried for years with no real hope of ever completing it, sometimes all the stars line up and the unthinkable just happens.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 15, 2013, 10:57:05 pm
My eldest son has left teen age morosidy, and has got a self pass to the Works... And fallen in love with bouldering.. So damn choked he's found a new path in life.. All part of having kids... But the not so little man is fired up and keen as... Get IN.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 15, 2013, 11:03:14 pm
I know I've spelt the the not so morose thing wrong... Frankly I don't care!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on April 15, 2013, 11:21:41 pm
After 9 months and who knows how many hours, I've finally finished my guidebook!!!!! 6-8 weeks for printing and shipping, but it's done!

So stoked to get to climb again and get out of the darkness that is guidebook writing....

 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 16, 2013, 07:17:22 am
Bet that feels good!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tregiffian on April 16, 2013, 08:49:08 am
Knowing that you have made the world a better place.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on April 16, 2013, 09:21:26 am
Put up a new V6 today... Only took 4 fucking sessions and a cool day to go...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 16, 2013, 03:46:02 pm
My friends, I would really like to tell you that today in a very short lunchbreak session, I retroflashed two of the hardest problems on my board, but that wouldn't give the exact idea. I could tell you that I crushed them, but still that would not be enough. So I tell you that I crushed those problems to atoms, and I sent them in the place in which crushed problems go, and when they got there they found out they were the most crushed ones.
The best thing is, that I still had to fight to climb them, because they still felt hard. And that's priceless.
YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on April 16, 2013, 10:57:00 pm
Quality Nibs, well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on April 18, 2013, 02:30:30 pm
My friends, I would really like to tell you that today in a very short lunchbreak session, I retroflashed two of the hardest problems on my board, but that wouldn't give the exact idea. I could tell you that I crushed them, but still that would not be enough. So I tell you that I crushed those problems to atoms, and I sent them in the place in which crushed problems go, and when they got there they found out they were the most crushed ones.
The best thing is, that I still had to fight to climb them, because they still felt hard. And that's priceless.
YYFY.

Top effort bud!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 18, 2013, 02:34:36 pm
I sent them in the place in which crushed problems go, and when they got there they found out they were the most crushed ones.

Nibble you are piss-funny :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 18, 2013, 05:16:21 pm
Put up a new V6 today... Only took 4 fucking sessions and a cool day to go...

Man, that sounds like hard work. I can normally crank out a V6 after one sex session and a cheeky wank...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on April 19, 2013, 12:09:58 pm
I enjoyed my first session on the lime last night after work (last session was early August 2012)
I went to Rubicon where I retro flashed Millers Tale and Kudos, sent the press 3rd go (this was my hardest tick at Rubicon last year). I tried a few new ones, bagged one of them 'A bigger splash Direct' and fell from the last move on Kudos traverse.
Psyched for a season of limestone now...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 19, 2013, 01:00:38 pm
I sent them in the place in which crushed problems go, and when they got there they found out they were the most crushed ones.

 :bow:

One of the best things that anybody has ever said on here. I will be using this at the crag for sure.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on April 20, 2013, 06:35:51 pm
yesterday i was in the most extreme place ive ever been.in a fire and watching the flames above dancing across the roof.zilch visibility at first.got the marks on my forearms for it.very weird feeling been inside a fire,was fecking amazing to see.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on April 20, 2013, 07:36:07 pm
It was exactly the same up the Roaches today!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 21, 2013, 08:29:58 am
Belayed a friend up Manchester Buttress yesterday....he broke his back in a rockfall accident 9 months ago*.   :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:


* Somewhat characteristically he said it didn't count as he had to take a couple of rests on the rope!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on April 21, 2013, 09:44:06 am
its good to go back and finish a route you had a bad experience on. get rid of the demons
i did the same on laguna sunrise after fooking my back up
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 21, 2013, 09:53:44 am
It wasn't this route that fell down on him, the accident happened at Wild Cat (and he's lucky to be alive, even more so to not be paralysed).

I'm just dead pleased for him.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 22, 2013, 10:15:44 am
yesterday i was in the most extreme place ive ever been.in a fire and watching the flames above dancing across the roof.zilch visibility at first.got the marks on my forearms for it.very weird feeling been inside a fire,was fecking amazing to see.

Admit, how many times have you watched the film Backdraft?

Was this training, or the real deal?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on April 22, 2013, 09:38:02 pm
saw backdraft once when it first came out.it was in a shipping container with a shed load of timber at one end.they are used as vented or unvented fires can be replicated
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on April 23, 2013, 08:37:10 am
I once watched some fire-fighters doing BA training in a smoke house - you have my sympathy! When I go to fire scenes I now always look out for those tell-tale scuff marks in the soot where BA crews have been blindly feeling their way along walls.  Thank god for PPV! By the way, is your FRS equipped with Cobra? Looks like a funky bit of kit for avoiding smoke explosions.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on April 23, 2013, 02:00:20 pm
no.we dont have cobra. ive sweated out of places i didnt know sweat came from wearing b.a. 
 having your sight taken away and in a totally unknown place is a strange feeling.its gives you a head ache as all your other senses try and make up for it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 23, 2013, 02:11:24 pm
Sounds sort of like skiing in a whiteout. I get sore eyes from squinting trying to discern the whiteness from the other whiteness, and it makes me dizzy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on April 23, 2013, 11:37:38 pm
My friends, I would really like to tell you that today in a very short lunchbreak session, I retroflashed two of the hardest problems on my board, but that wouldn't give the exact idea. I could tell you that I crushed them, but still that would not be enough. So I tell you that I crushed those problems to atoms, and I sent them in the place in which crushed problems go, and when they got there they found out they were the most crushed ones.
The best thing is, that I still had to fight to climb them, because they still felt hard. And that's priceless.
YYFY.

I've witnessed these things crushed first hand and had to enter a new temporal realm just to bear witness to these things. Wishing you every prop of my atoms Lo.

As a barely comparable aside, I'm psyched that three weeks of fingerboarding has got me back on my 4.5mm rung again; an acid test I hope bodes well for the coming months.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 24, 2013, 07:02:41 am
 ;D cheers Tom.
P.s. 4,5 mm rung is an oxymoron.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i_a_coops on April 24, 2013, 06:18:15 pm
After over 5 months of trying Enchantress every time I drive up or down the M1, I'd pretty much given up on it. After being spanked by Malham in general recently, I've been getting a little disillusioned with the siege process in general. I went back to Forest Rock after 4 consecutive days climbing with the intention of showing a friend around without climbing anything, put my shoes on anyway, and had the lowest gravity day I've ever had....

I DID AN 8A CHA'MONE!!! (admittedly with a cheating knee scum. Is this what it feels like to be Alex Barrows?)

I'm spending the next week eating cheesecake  :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 24, 2013, 08:01:17 pm
:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on April 24, 2013, 09:52:02 pm
Quote
I DID AN 8A CHA'MONE!!!


:bounce:

I was wondering whether I should go back this weekend or go to Dinas instead...

I think my choice has been made!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i_a_coops on April 24, 2013, 10:55:44 pm
I was wondering whether I should go back this weekend or go to Dinas instead...

I think my choice has been made!

Glad it's not just me who thinks Forest Rock and Dinas are the dogs nadgers. Cheers for uploading that video the other day, was some useful beta there!

Another YYFY - From October I'll be living 25 minutes from Dinas Rock.... 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on April 25, 2013, 01:01:15 am
Hot damn, you are full of win right now!

I'm glad the video helped  :)

I don't know about 'the dogs nadgers' but the moves at FR certainly make up for the looks
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on April 27, 2013, 02:34:43 pm
As of yesterday I am now the owner of a house on half an acre in Bishop.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on April 27, 2013, 03:15:34 pm
As of yesterday I am now the owner of a house on half an acre in Bishop.
Now that is very cool - congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on April 27, 2013, 06:02:02 pm
With a spare room/rooms/wing for good ol' UKB buddies, right?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on April 28, 2013, 01:44:36 pm
Now that is very cool - congrats!

With a spare room/rooms/wing for good ol' UKB buddies, right?

Thanks guys, and yes. Plenty of space, or there will be when I am done with it. Hit me up if you are ever coming out this way.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tesla on April 28, 2013, 03:34:10 pm
As of yesterday I am now the owner of a house on half an acre in Bishop.

Nice. Do you plan to live there all year round or just use it for bouldering trips? I've ended up spending around 7-8 weeks there every year since we moved to California a few years ago and I was considering getting somewhere near there and renting it out for the rest of the year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on April 28, 2013, 09:12:57 pm
Nice. Do you plan to live there all year round or just use it for bouldering trips? I've ended up spending around 7-8 weeks there every year since we moved to California a few years ago and I was considering getting somewhere near there and renting it out for the rest of the year.

Year round. It gets a bit hot in the summer but there are boulders to be had nearby all the way up to 3000m elevation or even higher. Still, outfitting an air-conditioned training facility is high on my list of improvements to be made.

As for rentals, there are plenty of places in town owned by landlords in southern California, with prices and interests where they are now it might not be a bad play.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tesla on April 29, 2013, 02:11:27 am

Year round. It gets a bit hot in the summer but there are boulders to be had nearby all the way up to 3000m elevation or even higher.


I checked out some of the alpine bouldering up around Mammoth (Way Lake etc) last summer, just before they published the new guidebook. If you've not been it's well worth the 20-30 minute walk ins (it might actually be less - we were questing around with some shitty topo we downloaded). Some great bouldering on Gneiss in fairly stunning setting. I'm hoping to take the kids back for an extended camping trip there this summer, it was a pretty special place.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on April 29, 2013, 04:15:32 am


I checked out some of the alpine bouldering up around Mammoth (Way Lake etc) last summer, just before they published the new guidebook. If you've not been it's well worth the 20-30 minute walk ins (it might actually be less - we were questing around with some shitty topo we downloaded). Some great bouldering on Gneiss in fairly stunning setting. I'm hoping to take the kids back for an extended camping trip there this summer, it was a pretty special place.

Yes. :) Crimp Ladder was the highlight of last summer for me. Didn't finish the Meadows roof, yet.  There is tons to do there.  Also Tuolumne isn't too far once the pass is open, tahoe is just a couple of hours. And then there is this...:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gJS9cmHqz9E/T_3ooIfw1VI/AAAAAAAAAds/a9y5Qx-LhSE/s640/IMG_2981.jpg)

Only about ten miles from the Milks. ...as the crow flies that is ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 29, 2013, 08:51:54 am
As of yesterday I am now the owner of a house on half an acre in Bishop.

Nice one. A friend of mine has just recently moved up to Bishop from near San Diego too. She's not much of a boulderer though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on April 30, 2013, 09:16:58 pm
Back on ticking form, with a quick mid day seshwan ticking a (soft) 7B+ just in time for trad season  :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on May 01, 2013, 01:45:20 pm
Finally made it to Simons, Lords and Hen stones today. I've been chomping at the bit to go for ages. Had a great day and sent nearly everything I aimed to. It also marked my 50th 7th grade problem sinced I moved up this summer!  (Yes, I'm counting, yes it is partly about the numbers). ;D
Ticks have certainly slowed down since this last post as I've been projecting much more, but just notched up my 80th this morning with the stand-up to Sweet Dreams at Rocky Valley. I'm not going to achieve the target of 100 in a year that I set myself but that's fine as I'm having a nice time  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2013, 02:12:41 pm
When's the cutoff date?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 01, 2013, 02:35:59 pm
Back on ticking form, with a quick mid day seshwan ticking a (soft) 7B+ just in time for trad season  :(

why the long face?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on May 01, 2013, 02:41:54 pm
When's the cutoff date?
The last day in May
Back on ticking form, with a quick mid day seshwan ticking a (soft) 7B+ just in time for trad season  :(

why the long face?

The end of the bouldering season I imagine
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2013, 02:46:18 pm
When's the cutoff date?
The last day in May

average 1 a day for next month, no bother :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on May 01, 2013, 03:02:45 pm
When's the cutoff date?
The last day in May

average 1 a day for next month, no bother :)
I'm running out of easy pickings and cold conditions to cheat my way up the sloping ones ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2013, 03:21:38 pm
get out of bed earlier you fazy lucker. Or bust out he lantern. First light atm 4:37, last light 9:19.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 01, 2013, 03:32:26 pm
For you it is, we've got two hours less daylight than you!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2013, 03:43:11 pm
Looked up on MSW (easiest source i had to hand, but I'm a fazy lucker too) as times for Scarborough, so may be out by a minute or two.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on May 01, 2013, 03:46:42 pm
Got a lamp.
Not getting out of bed before 7.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 01, 2013, 03:48:43 pm
so may be out by a minute or two.

Interesting, Met Office says 5:24 and 20:34 for Scarborough...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2013, 03:54:29 pm
is that first and last light, or sunrise and sunset?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 01, 2013, 03:56:44 pm
Ah  :slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on May 01, 2013, 04:13:53 pm
Ah  :slap:
But you know what he means...
Sunset at 20.35 last night, but light for another 25 mins.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2013, 04:47:22 pm
Assuming it's a sunny day. Which is one mf of an assumption.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on May 01, 2013, 10:21:37 pm
I have replaced my crap broken tiny fiesta with a Berlingo in time for 3 month summer holiday. Its going to be amazing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on May 02, 2013, 01:30:00 pm
 :icon_welcome: to club berlingo
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on May 02, 2013, 02:37:35 pm
I have replaced my crap broken tiny fiesta with a Berlingo in time for 3 month summer holiday. Its going to be amazing.
with the modutop so you can catch some rays when cruising ?

I actually have a spare wooden fold out bed thing I built for ours which you're welcome to if you're planning on kipping in it..  only problem is its in Cornwall
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 03, 2013, 06:56:39 am
YYFY! Just found another new bouldering area.... This one is only half an hour away from home.. Only had 2 hours there and cleaned and put up 2 problems and had a quick look around.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: grr666 on May 03, 2013, 08:56:46 am
:icon_welcome: to club berlingo
Good little vans, better than the Kangoo I'm rockin :shit:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on May 03, 2013, 03:41:39 pm
Had a complete nightmare trying to get off shitty locking wheel nuts when swapping the winter tyres back. Became a complete saga, joke was neither sets of wheels are worth nicking, I was just using them cos they had always been on the car. Managed to break three of them when the 'key' screwed up. Awesome local garage just sorted it for £35 (but not before I'd tried several other 'specialists' and wasted £50 on tools trying to sort it myself!  :slap:)

Still a YYFY as it's sorted now for a BH trip to N Wales.   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 04, 2013, 09:43:52 am
I just finished one of the best teaching experiences of my career.
I taught the penal procedure laws of Italy to a class of Mexican students, professors and lawyers. It's been quite hard, more than one month to prepare the classes and 7 hours a day of teaching, but finally it seems that everything went well, despite the fact that many of them knew a lot more than me. One had also been a judge!!!
I've been asked to write a brief article for a penal law and criminology journal.
Well chuffed.
I also had to flex for a few pics with the girls. No kidding.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 04, 2013, 11:15:46 am
I just finished one of the best teaching experiences of my career.
I taught the penal procedure laws of Italy to a class of Mexican students, professors and lawyers. It's been quite hard, more than one month to prepare the classes and 7 hours a day of teaching, but finally it seems that everything went well, despite the fact that many of them knew a lot more than me. One had also been a judge!!!
I've been asked to write a brief article for a penal law and criminology journal.
Well chuffed.
I also had to flex for a few pics with the girls. No kidding.

Well done Lore!!!!

You might be in danger of growing up! :) ;) I'd advise you to avoid that at all costs...

Keep the Faith!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 04, 2013, 12:20:17 pm
 ;D
Keep the faith Matt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 06, 2013, 12:21:52 pm
I hope you hulked through your shirt and suit when flexing the biceps! Good work  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on May 07, 2013, 07:41:26 am
Got my first 5.13a redpoint today, a mere 34 years after my first roped climb and - more significantly - after about 20 years being plateau'd around 7b. It seems quitting your job and relocating to a world-class climbing area works.


Nice work! Sometimes just trying harder isn't enough... now where's the job section for Pembroke.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 07, 2013, 09:34:44 am
Obviously this is only equivalent to a poxy 7c+, but the route was 13a/b in the old guide and I can't see any "soft for the grade"s on 8a.nu. Plus a couple of locals said my beta, avoiding a big loose hold, made it more "stout". So at least it was a solid 7c+.

It's funny how on the YDS 5.13 is a "breakthrough" grade and yet, like you say it's F7c+ which is everyone's least favourite grade on their way to 8a!

Anyhow's good work!  I need to find myself a decent project for the summer...got some psyche for redpointing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on May 07, 2013, 12:52:25 pm
Obviously this is only equivalent to a poxy 7c+,

It's funny how on the YDS 5.13 is a "breakthrough" grade and yet, like you say it's F7c+ which is everyone's least favourite grade on their way to 8a!

I have the same problem at the moment, albeit quite a bit further down the (any) scale. I have several UIAA VIII- projects on the go, which is the next "big" grade on my local scale so I'll be pleased when I eventually tick one, but it's 6c+ not 7a  :(

Well done Habrich. I still have two years to go to the 34 years elapsed mark (although for nearly half of that time I wasn't climbing), so there may be hope for me yet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on May 07, 2013, 01:43:53 pm
Not me, but the Mrs got Strawberries (Curbar) on Sunday, much to my joint annoyance (I couldn't hold the stupid slot) and joy as she absolutley crushed it.

Had a stonker of a long-weekend, didn't really crush, but ticked some really fun routes, had a mini session on Gorilla Warefare which didn't feel too awful either.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on May 07, 2013, 02:29:00 pm
Nice Habrich!

Obviously this is only equivalent to a poxy 7c+, but the route was 13a/b in the old guide and I can't see any "soft for the grade"s on 8a.nu. Plus a couple of locals said my beta, avoiding a big loose hold, made it more "stout". So at least it was a solid 7c+.

It's funny how on the YDS 5.13 is a "breakthrough" grade and yet, like you say it's F7c+ which is everyone's least favourite grade on their way to 8a!

Anyhow's good work!  I need to find myself a decent project for the summer...got some psyche for redpointing.

I spent all my time in America last October projecting .12as (7a+s) 'cos it's a magic number over there. I came away empty handed. If I'd have put more effort into .11cs I'd probably come back with a nice haul of 7as instead...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on May 07, 2013, 04:54:07 pm
A slow burning YYFS from a Bank Holiday weekend at Kilnsey - managed to put away a bunch of last year's unfinished business - Comedy, Pantomime and Truth Drug.  With last month's seeing off of Tremelo and Serious Young Toads, my wishlist has some vacancies at the top (at least as soon as I get up Dominatrix... though after falling off the top move last year I am having difficulty finding the resolve to get back on).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gcarmichael on May 09, 2013, 08:29:26 pm
Just did Mecca at Raven Tor! Buzzing :) split a tip on the go aswell, proper lucky!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: B-Bird on May 09, 2013, 08:45:49 pm
split a tip on the go aswell, proper lucky!  ;D

good karma for the bad luck of fluffing the last move last time then!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 09, 2013, 09:04:24 pm
A slow burning YYFS from a Bank Holiday weekend at Kilnsey - managed to put away a bunch of last year's unfinished business - Comedy, Pantomime and Truth Drug.  With last month's seeing off of Tremelo and Serious Young Toads, my wishlist has some vacancies at the top (at least as soon as I get up Dominatrix... though after falling off the top move last year I am having difficulty finding the resolve to get back on).

nice one Luke, mopping them up.

Just did Mecca at Raven Tor! Buzzing :) split a tip on the go aswell, proper lucky!  ;D

beast!  :weakbench: good to know your grade pyramid will still look like a telegraph pole
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gcarmichael on May 09, 2013, 10:38:10 pm
cheers! yeh guy i think it could be like that for a while haha
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on May 10, 2013, 09:58:46 am
Not climbing related, so apologies if it offends anyone. But we completed on our house today! YYFY, it's the house we've been renting so no moving hassle YYFY! Best schools in Nottingham for the nippers catchment area YYFY size of the mortgage has a potential scary NNFN but cutting down on the beer and wine to help pay for it will help with the climbing weight YYFY?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 10, 2013, 10:03:03 am
I think this sums it up nicely:  :devangel:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 10, 2013, 10:23:06 am
Nice one, looks like we are moving in to new house next weekend too, finally. Looking forward to walking to bouldering again, just as the evenings are drawing out. Weak as piss right now though and skin like tissue, time for laps of boltsheugh, should sort out both.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mini on May 10, 2013, 12:25:17 pm
Can I add a YYFY to the house moving malarky? Just had a call from the solicitors to say completion has taken place and the keys for the new country cottage (cottage terrace in the green belt to be technical) are with the estate agent to be collected straight after work!!

Perfect house in a perfect location (two good local boozers within a stones throw in either direction) YYFY!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 10, 2013, 01:32:57 pm
Chorley? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 10, 2013, 01:39:17 pm
Nah, he said perfect location...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on May 11, 2013, 02:41:22 pm
Congrats! It's a good feeling, having your own little slice of the pie.

Not climbing related, so apologies if it offends anyone. But we completed on our house today! YYFY, it's the house we've been renting so no moving hassle YYFY! Best schools in Nottingham for the nippers catchment area YYFY size of the mortgage has a potential scary NNFN but cutting down on the beer and wine to help pay for it will help with the climbing weight YYFY?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mini on May 12, 2013, 12:05:18 am
Chorley? :)

No, Chorley's my home town. Relocated in Leek (can't see the Roaches for the trees!).

Pulled up this afternoon to unload to be welcomed by three of the neighbours, one of whom made me a cuppa c/w a Club Orange. Also found out I'm a neighbour to a heron and (if your lucky) a kingfisher who feeds in the Churnet River (stream) right in front of the house. Better get me a quality lens ;-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gus on May 12, 2013, 10:19:22 pm
Good stuff dude!!

Catch up soon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on May 20, 2013, 12:44:26 pm
Scraped my way up my first 8a yesterday - massive YYFY!

I managed to fall off the (laughably easy) final move back in September, before the route spent all Winter being sopping. I had my next session on it a month or so back, where I couldn't do the crux in isolation. I went back again yesterday with a hangover (blame Eurovision) and low expectations, got warmed up and had a slow start. I managed to stick the crux move once, then had a couple of bad redpoint attempts. It was pretty warm and humid and I had all but given up, but decided to have one last go. Suddenly I found myself through the crux (by the skin of my teeth) and shaking out at the resting jug. I pinched myself, then made sure to crush the shit out of the easy last move and ecstatically clipped the chains. YYFY!

1 lifetime goal down, 2 to go....!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2013, 01:06:39 pm
so untying a pretzel and building a sugar cube still to go?

Nice one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on May 20, 2013, 03:19:20 pm
Yes you guessed it. Cheers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 20, 2013, 03:34:15 pm
Mmmm pretzels....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on May 20, 2013, 04:29:25 pm
Mmmm suger cubes....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 20, 2013, 05:47:52 pm
Does your owner give you some after you've been given a good grooming?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on May 20, 2013, 05:58:38 pm
yep :)

She does
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 20, 2013, 07:50:52 pm
Some sugar cubes, that is...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on May 20, 2013, 11:16:05 pm
Got my first (soft)7c+ this weekend at Brean Down with Storm Warning.  ;D

And more impressively, I managed a Craggy 7b+ in a single session this evening.

Not bad for a months stamina training!
Kinda tempted to go and have a look at the cider soak this coming week...is that a good idea for first 8a?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on May 21, 2013, 10:04:07 am
good effort Lukey..   that is my main goal for this year so I feel your pysche   ;D  what was the route?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on May 21, 2013, 05:05:48 pm
Cheers ben. It was liquid crystal at cheddar. Good luck with your goal, got any particular routes in mind?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 21, 2013, 05:27:38 pm
Got my first (soft)7c+ this weekend at Brean Down with Storm Warning.  ;D
Kinda tempted to go and have a look at the cider soak this coming week...is that a good idea for first 8a?

It's not a soft one but is really good so should inspire. I hate the top section with a passion but no one else seems to moan about it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joe dobson on May 21, 2013, 07:12:55 pm
After 6 months of finger injury, its finally healed and I've finally started to train again. After a crap first week my body is finally getting back into tune and managed to have a cracking fingerboard and boulder session in the past 2 days. Feeling as strong as I was before the injury, bring on the summer!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on May 22, 2013, 10:49:23 am
Cheers ben. It was liquid crystal at cheddar. Good luck with your goal, got any particular routes in mind?
Righthandman just up the hill from liquid crystal.. Have had a few sessions on it and can do it on toprope in a few sections but the red point feels a long way off at the moment!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on May 22, 2013, 12:28:45 pm
Nice, that's one I've been meaning to have a look at. Might see you up there at some point!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on May 22, 2013, 12:43:32 pm
Got myself back on the road yesteday and had the first of many after work sessions at Almscliff. YYFY!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on May 26, 2013, 08:20:41 pm
I'm aware that this is meant to be a climbing YYFY thread but....
Went for a run for the first time in a couple of years and managed 10K in just under 56 mins.
Not bad for an aging, broken, frame such as mine..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on May 26, 2013, 10:55:03 pm
Persuaded my wife and our four day old daughter to go out for a bouldering trip this afternoon, and actually had quite a good little session.

To be fair my daughter didn't get much say in the matter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on May 26, 2013, 10:58:37 pm
Well done.... I'd keep it that way haha
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 27, 2013, 07:41:23 am
New pad arrived from Moon today! Time to get on some highballs...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andybfreeman on May 27, 2013, 08:12:14 am
New pad arrived from Moon today! Time to get on some highballs...
perfectly timed birthday present to yourself! Enjoy (both the day and the highballs)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AdamD on May 27, 2013, 08:19:57 am
I've decided to start training again (4weeks in) after pottering about for the past 3months following a ring finger injury. The fingers are feeling stronger than ever and my power endurance is getting better.

I went from climbing a bouldering roof style f6c+ and feeling pumped for ages (indoors) to about 2 weeks later doing the following:

f6c+
f7a
f7b
f7c+
Half way across the f8b+

I managed to get these done in under 15minutes with shorter breaks and they're all about 30 move  problems.

It seems I may have a chance of the old font8a this summer :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on May 27, 2013, 08:26:33 pm
non climbing yyfy but managed to do my first marathon yesterday in 3hours 43 minutes. was well chuffed because I hadn't trained for it and winged my way round on sheer determination.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dr T on May 27, 2013, 08:44:52 pm
non climbing yyfy but managed to do my first marathon yesterday in 3hours 43 minutes. was well chuffed because I hadn't trained for it and winged my way round on sheer determination.
:clap2:
I now feel I have to down grade my previous YYFY to a YYMinorY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 27, 2013, 08:59:47 pm
Fine effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on May 30, 2013, 02:44:08 pm
A triple YYFY;

1. Back climbing this week after a break, I'm rubbish but I don't care.
2. We're moving closer to home soon and will be able to visit family/old friends more than a couple of times a year, there are new nephews to see.
3. The place we're moving to is Sheffield, apparently it's a great city and there might be climbing nearby.

Good times  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andybfreeman on May 30, 2013, 11:44:13 pm
A triple YYFY;

1. Back climbing this week after a break, I'm rubbish but I don't care.
2. We're moving closer to home soon and will be able to visit family/old friends more than a couple of times a year, there are new nephews to see.
3. The place we're moving to is Sheffield, apparently it's a great city and there might be climbing nearby.

Good times  :)

Nice; a big bucket of win!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 04, 2013, 10:09:36 am
Beautiful day, at the crag for 8.20, FA done by 9, in work before 10. That's what I call a start to the day!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 04, 2013, 10:14:03 am
Good work! I'll be doing the evening shift at Goldsborough later, hooray for summer. No FAs though...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 04, 2013, 10:31:37 am
Beautiful day indeed. Invited my girl over for breakfast at 8, in work by 9:30. Lunchbreak session planned at 13, then back to work in Florence until 20.
First sunny day in weeks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 04, 2013, 10:42:50 am
Beautiful day, at the crag for 8.20, FA done by 9, in work before 10. That's what I call a start to the day!

Nice one!

Been considering the potential for dawn sessions to get a bit of good nick on the grit lately - reckon I could get up unfeasibly early, get a quick session and still make it home for the 8am bus to work. Anyone got any experience of this? Had been worried about potential for dampness/ dew wrecking things.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonham18 on June 04, 2013, 11:03:03 am
Been considering the potential for dawn sessions to get a bit of good nick on the grit lately - reckon I could get up unfeasibly early, get a quick session and still make it home for the 8am bus to work. Anyone got any experience of this? Had been worried about potential for dampness/ dew wrecking things.
[/quote]

Was at plantation for 5am on Monday and there was no dampness at all, although conditions were still warmer than you'd like. By 7am everything was getting warm, but it was brilliant to sneak a couple of hours on the grit in despite day time temps of 20 degrees
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 04, 2013, 11:07:35 am
Interesting - might have to psych myself up for a very early start one morning...sadly all my projects are at Brimham, which is a good 45 mins from the house...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 04, 2013, 11:09:21 am
Choose a slightly breezy morning, that should have kept the humidity down overnight and therefore should be less damp in the morning.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 04, 2013, 11:10:02 am
Been considering the potential for dawn sessions to get a bit of good nick on the grit lately - reckon I could get up unfeasibly early, get a quick session and still make it home for the 8am bus to work. Anyone got any experience of this? Had been worried about potential for dampness/ dew wrecking things.

Do it. A bit like pre-work surfing, even if conditions aren't brilliant it sets you up for the whole day. If it's been warm and clear for a few days in a row there shouldn't be a bot of moisture in the air to drop out as it cools overnight, and somewhere that gets a breeze (almscliff basically) should be fine. Just don't leave getting back into Leeds too late and get caught in commuter traffic!

edit - more or less what Andy said, but more words.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 04, 2013, 11:22:01 am
Been considering the potential for dawn sessions to get a bit of good nick on the grit lately - reckon I could get up unfeasibly early, get a quick session and still make it home for the 8am bus to work. Anyone got any experience of this? Had been worried about potential for dampness/ dew wrecking things.

Do it. A bit like pre-work surfing, even if conditions aren't brilliant it sets you up for the whole day. If it's been warm and clear for a few days in a row there shouldn't be a bot of moisture in the air to drop out as it cools overnight, and somewhere that gets a breeze (almscliff basically) should be fine. Just don't leave getting back into Leeds too late and get caught in commuter traffic!

edit - more or less what Andy said, but more words.

Cheers - that was what I was planning, shame my Cliff bouldering ticklist is pretty short at the moment.

On the traffic front I did consider dropping the car in Huby and getting the train as my office is right in town.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 04, 2013, 11:26:54 am
Do it. I'll try and think up some good 7Bs which would be suitable for a morning solo raid to the 'Cliff...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 04, 2013, 12:52:41 pm
On the traffic front I did consider dropping the car in Huby and getting the train as my office is right in town.

That would mean having to go to the cliff again after work - such a hardship.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on June 04, 2013, 01:12:53 pm
Fieldside Traverse and the eliminate but good traverse across Si's Arete are both decent 7b's for the solitary dawn boulderer. 

The problem on the front of the Virgin using the crack is a quality 7b.  But possibly a bad choice safety-wise; if you slip with the heel-toe in you might be found dangling head-down by the post-work crowd!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: catbreath on June 04, 2013, 02:04:33 pm
A pretty small YYFY but this weekend I bouldered outside on real rock for the first time and had an awesome time! Had a tiny climb late in the evening at Harrisons Rocks when it was getting dark and then spent the next day at High Rocks. I was totally shit and only managed a few little traverses (everything was pretty damp and dusty tbh) but after being into climbing for a little over a year it felt good finally getting out and doing it properly on real rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 04, 2013, 02:13:43 pm
Nice one for getting out, but if the rock is damp (from rain) you shouldn't really climb on it as it is considerably weaker and prone to wearing away or breaking. If by dusty you mean sandy - that's southern sandstone, it's often like that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on June 04, 2013, 02:26:35 pm
if you slip with the heel-toe in you might be found dangling head-down by the post-work crowd!

3t has experienced this previously although for only as long as it took his spotters to wake up.

Do it, Tom, it's a wonderful experience, life just seems so much stiller at that time of day and the chirp of the dawn chorus being the only sound but silence is something else.  So many visits to your home ground blend into one another but being up there alone at dawn with only nature and silence won't.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 04, 2013, 02:33:08 pm
+1 Give it a go. For Almscliff reference - sun does not get around to DWR face until c.10/10:30am So most things (Egg aside) will be in the shade until at least then.

When I was working DWR ages ago, I used to get there for 8AM (meaning a 6:30/7 departure from Hull) and its great at that time as well... nice to be leaving as the keen chuffers turn up a bit later on..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on June 04, 2013, 02:37:54 pm
I once went to Almscliff at 6am with a mate who had to drive back to Sussex a little later. Unfortunately our plan backfired as it was really very cold and we only managed a few laps of Fluted Columns before retreating to the warmth of a greasy spoon in Hyde Park somewhere. Kind of surreal to see the sun rising as I'm used to seeing it set when I'm at the cliff...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on June 04, 2013, 03:30:41 pm
I like dawn climbing. In many respects I prefer it, but it's difficult to get hydrated if you manage to get out of bed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 05, 2013, 09:35:02 pm
well we're going for it tomorrow - looking at ludicrously early start tomorrow (to be honest I should go to bed in a bit...) but will see how we go.

I was thinking that bouldering would be the way to go but my mate is thinking he might take the opportunity to have a bash at Wall Of Horrors as, and I quote "...I'll be too tired to be scared"!


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 05, 2013, 11:13:41 pm
I'm not sure why but routing at that hour just seems like a really bad idea.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on June 05, 2013, 11:41:01 pm
yawn...

did someone mention alpine?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 06, 2013, 09:19:15 am
I can report that is was good - if a bit spooky being somewhere that's usually so busy when it was deserted.

Andy's right - routing did feel weird, don't think I'd do it again given the choice, felt pretty fuzzy in the head. Did find myself checking my knot, checking it, checking it once more for good measure.

Kept well within my grade but did have some fun offwidthing the top of Hobgoblin as a warmup, definitely the weirdest thing I've ever done at 5:15am!



Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 06, 2013, 09:29:30 am
Glad your moring was better than mine. At Aberdeen beach at 5:30, waves mid calf height :( Tried to go climbing, but spot I went to has had some major seaweed growth over winter; unclimbable. Needs attack with brush.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on June 06, 2013, 11:17:20 am
definitely the weirdest thing I've ever done soberat 5:15am!
Fixed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Probes on June 06, 2013, 11:33:37 am
There's something very primitive about early starts.. Doing an alpine one finding yourself a few pitches up, then the sun comes up and the distant floor slowly appears, feels very 'instinctive'.. like you should be there. Something to do with early hunting starts to catch the wild swines, of our neanderthol brothers..  :-\   :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on June 06, 2013, 10:32:27 pm
A lowercase yyfy for me, but one none the less, ticked a 6c at apparent north this evening, not been back climbing for long and been hovering around 6a+ 6b so well chuffed. Just to make sure I did it a second time but added a sit start as not quite sure if its that grade from standing or not  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on June 07, 2013, 08:55:56 am
Depends which one it is, if it is the "6c" slopey traverse then you deserve an uppercase yyfy as that is HARD!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on June 07, 2013, 03:43:03 pm
Depends which one it is, if it is the "6c" slopey traverse then you deserve an uppercase yyfy as that is HARD!
Afraid not. Cornflake problem I think it's called. Just don't know if you do a SDS and reach up to the cornflake or start with your left on it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on June 10, 2013, 02:08:50 pm
Had a good couple of days in Sydney. 4 crags in 3 days. Very close on a V8...
Instead had to settle for 4 V6s.

Now its skin growing time... Grampians in a week. Can't fucking wait!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on June 10, 2013, 02:30:07 pm
Depends which one it is, if it is the "6c" slopey traverse then you deserve an uppercase yyfy as that is HARD!
Afraid not. Cornflake problem I think it's called. Just don't know if you do a SDS and reach up to the cornflake or start with your left on it?

Seem to remember doing that a good few years ago and thinking/hoping I'd got a Stanage FA!

I'm sure someone with more knowledge will be able to correct me if I'm wrong but IIRC the 6c is from a sitter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on June 10, 2013, 08:31:24 pm
It would be even more of a one move wonder  if you started with a the 'cornflake' in hand...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: bigtuboflard on June 10, 2013, 08:46:56 pm
It would be even more of a one move wonder  if you started with a the 'cornflake' in hand...
well thats exactly what i thought hence doing it from a sitter! although from a SDS its still really only 2 moves long!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 11, 2013, 11:30:05 am
The girl I'm dating lives here:
http://www.civiltadelbere.com/i-50-anni-degli-agricoltori-del-chianti-geografico/ (http://www.civiltadelbere.com/i-50-anni-degli-agricoltori-del-chianti-geografico/)
YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on June 12, 2013, 01:09:06 pm
Did my first 8a two weeks ago, having fully ruptured my A2 pulley last year YYFY!!! Also a lot of my Academy kids I coach have made it to Ratho finals on sat, which means Friday and Sunday I'll be at Malham...first time there YYFY!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on June 12, 2013, 01:44:14 pm
The girl I'm dating lives here:
http://www.civiltadelbere.com/i-50-anni-degli-agricoltori-del-chianti-geografico/ (http://www.civiltadelbere.com/i-50-anni-degli-agricoltori-del-chianti-geografico/)
YYFY.
Does she only date climbers because there are no doors in that building? :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 12, 2013, 06:11:11 pm
 ;D I hope I'm the only (climber) one she's dating now!
Anyway my YYFY was due to the fact that I found out that she comes from noble origins, lives in a medieval castle in the middle of the Chianti region, surrounded by acres of vineyards that produce some of the best wine in Italy...
Noblesse Oblige.
 :devangel:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: krymson on June 12, 2013, 06:31:17 pm
Did my first 8a two weeks ago, having fully ruptured my A2 pulley last year YYFY!!! Also a lot of my Academy kids I coach have made it to Ratho finals on sat, which means Friday and Sunday I'll be at Malham...first time there YYFY!  :2thumbsup:

That's amazing!  :thumbsup:

How did you recover so well?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on June 12, 2013, 07:39:39 pm
Bit of a different (and kind of cruel) YYFY...

Getting a lot of house viewings at the moment as we're all moving out. The other two lads (complete cnuts) said they wouldn't help clean the kitchen or chip in for the cleaning equipment.

As it was them who have left so much shit everywhere and made the oven the most vile thing ever, I decided to use some of their t-shirts which they had left lying around as cloths to scrub all the shit out.

Made me feel very YYFY!

D1ck heads!

Oh, and YYFY for moving out soon and in with some climbers for a few weeks (thanks Ed and Lisa) and then onto Ceuse for the summer!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on June 16, 2013, 10:19:40 pm
6 hour round trip to Sydney today... NNFN.

But that means leaving for the Grampians this arvo! YYFY!!!
But its a 12hour drive...NNFN...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on June 18, 2013, 12:00:09 am
The new climbing partner...

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1001833_10152916666370581_1156660023_n.jpg)

YYFY!

 :yes:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on June 18, 2013, 03:05:45 pm
Work has blocked all websites that I generall go on...except UKB!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ianto9 on June 18, 2013, 03:38:57 pm
After 3 years working nights,just been offered different manager role. Back on days means evenings on the orme and family,social life back, :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 18, 2013, 07:59:55 pm
After 3 years working nights,just been offered different manager role. Back on days means evenings on the orme and family,social life back, :icon_beerchug:

That's a massive YYFY! Work can really get in the way of life. Nice one.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on June 18, 2013, 09:24:59 pm
After 3 years working nights,just been offered different manager role. Back on days means evenings on the orme and family,social life back, :icon_beerchug:

No excuse for not ticking your project now then  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ianto9 on June 18, 2013, 10:03:54 pm
After 3 years working nights,just been offered different manager role. Back on days means evenings on the orme and family,social life back, :icon_beerchug:

No excuse for not ticking your project now then  ;)
There's been no excuse for years m8,its not even that hard ha,it is a massive difference working nights some people are suited to it not me!youll have to 2nd it and grade it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on June 18, 2013, 10:12:05 pm
Good news then. I'll give it a go when you've done it. I'm sure I had a go years ago, seemed tricky
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 21, 2013, 05:01:17 pm
YYFY!! After a lot of Googling I just found the solution to a problem I've had for ages with connecting my S3 to my stereo in the dining room via Bluetooth. This means a much nicer listening experience as I can stream everything through the phone using the excellent Google Play instead of the annoying fiddly iPod (and the utter horror that is iTunes).

Once I found the solution it was really simple and just involved disabling part of the Bluetooth app. When it worked first go, just for a second, I felt like slackline.

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 23, 2013, 12:29:01 am
Jasper are you sure this belongs in YYFY? Shouldn't it got in the "Spoddy things I got overexcited about today" thread?
 :tumble:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on June 28, 2013, 08:13:52 pm
YYFY. First 8a+, but also just as important, first Power of Climbing tick.

Not a bad way to spend a wet Friday afternoon  ;D.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark20 on June 28, 2013, 10:02:21 pm
 :great: Effort Chris!
Entree?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on June 28, 2013, 10:22:10 pm
:great: Effort Chris!
Entree?

Cheers youth. It was caviar at Rubicon. Think entree is only 8a, despite feeling way harder  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: haydn jones on June 29, 2013, 12:28:05 am
Nice Chris! Was trying this on wednesday, feels tough for sure! zeek the freak next? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on July 01, 2013, 12:20:46 am
I know it's 'only' trad but I got my first E1 today  ;D

My first YYFY too...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 01, 2013, 12:35:23 pm
YYFY. First 8a+, but also just as important, first Power of Climbing tick.

Not a bad way to spend a wet Friday afternoon  ;D.

well done Chris!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 01, 2013, 12:58:55 pm
I know it's 'only' trad but I got my first E1 today  ;D


First extreme, always a major benchmark.

I remember my first extreme........

Actually I don't. Well done anyway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 01, 2013, 01:00:20 pm
I remember my first extreme. I think it's also my only E1 ever and it gets HVS now. Oh well...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on July 01, 2013, 05:48:54 pm
Not too sure it should be graded E1 anyway but there you go...

Never been on a HVS at all and only done one VS, so I was pretty happy with it. I need to be less lazy with my climbing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on July 01, 2013, 06:57:11 pm
I love living in France even if sometimes it's like living in Terry Gilliam's 'Brazil'.

But

After nearly 5 months my ISP has finally sent me my 'Freebox'. 5 months with no mainline phone, no tv, and no internet connection (apart from using my phone as a router).

Fuck me, I have a five month backlog of watching Fiend dressed as a camp Serbian paramilitary climbing choss in Dundee. YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 01, 2013, 08:49:26 pm
I think you'll find that camp Serbian paramilitary members model themselves on Fiend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 01, 2013, 09:29:54 pm
Fuck me, I have a five month backlog of watching Fiend dressed as a camp Serbian paramilitary climbing choss in Dundee. YYFY.

 :lol: :clap2: :2thumbsup: love it. Surely a NNFN too. Although being deprived of the internet in this day and age is shocking, a basic human need surely.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on July 02, 2013, 05:01:46 pm
Minor YYFY - finally managed to go climbing here:
(http://www.topo-thaurac.com/Acceuil/Fichiers/Stguiensemblepetit.jpg)

and have a go on this (massive 7c that finishes at the top of the corner off the top of the pic!):
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c3vevVz0XBA/UdL3uQbe7fI/AAAAAAAAAu0/CE_PlbCHfO8/s800/Seb_StG.JPG)

I need to be a LOT fitter before going back.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 03, 2013, 04:28:57 pm
Is that the cave in El Chorro where Hara Kiri is?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on July 03, 2013, 04:34:29 pm
no, Nibs.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 03, 2013, 09:30:48 pm
(http://cdn1.27crags.com/photos/000/016/16152/huge-c5986a4395fd.jpg)

Not sure if it isn't just left....
it's above Iriquieza anyway..
(http://dirksmith.smugmug.com/Climbing-trips/Other-countries/Spain-Mar-Apr-May-08/IMG1102/303446808_XpVDG-L.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 03, 2013, 10:21:02 pm
a YYFY for me this afternoon.

Managed to get 'New Rose' (7B) at Farleton  :)

Felt miles away from this at the last session, but crimped for glory.

Top Climbing Tip: When using superglue to re-inforce finger tips, be very very careful if you go to the toilet soon after. I nearly had an incident ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 03, 2013, 10:27:59 pm
Minor belated YYFY from me.
Spent last Sunday daytime climbing with Profs Popp and TT (hope I got you're titles correct there, fellas. Please feel free to mark down accordingly  ;))
We were at Harmer's Wood. I've wanted to go for about 3 years ago when the pics were first posted here. Had a lovely day.

To cap it all off I then spent some father son time going to see The Who at the Liverpool arena. It was an awesome gig  :punk:
Listen to that bass guitar. IT'S AMAZING!

A fab day  :)

Real Me-The Who (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoRb8hxwluE#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 04, 2013, 07:47:08 am
I nearly had an incident ;)

Doesn't this happen in American Pie or something?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2013, 09:54:15 am
I nearly had an incident ;)

Doesn't this happen in American Pie or something?

On top of Farleton moor is a long long way from an American pie scene...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on July 04, 2013, 12:53:12 pm
Is that the cave in El Chorro where Hara Kiri is?

Nope, it's a sector at the back of the cirque behind the village of St Guilhem le Desert in the Hérault near Montpellier, France.

Topos for most sectors (except this one!) are here : http://www.topo-thaurac.com/ (http://www.topo-thaurac.com/)

It's a minor YYFY because I've been living here for about 12 years and it's the first time I've managed to get on the shorter routes!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on July 04, 2013, 02:23:06 pm
Shorter routes !




<4 moves OK
4-8 moves OK with practice
9 > stamina plod


Does look good though
[size=78%] [/size]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 22, 2013, 08:35:49 am
During the last weekend I made a childhood dream come true and I drove a Ferrari on track. Jesus fucking Christ. 470 hp...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/9336222437_4fb2d9466f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/9336222437/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/9336222437/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/9339000236_721a994053.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/9339000236/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/9339000236/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Then I went climbing and managed to lift my ass from the ground. Yay!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2013, 08:37:17 am
Nice. Did you shit yourself?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 22, 2013, 08:39:24 am
Oh yes! I nearly fell of a 2,5 meters tall 6a+!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 22, 2013, 09:03:08 am
LOL. I meant in the car!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 22, 2013, 09:23:53 am
 ;)
The car was just amazing. The track was obviously short and bendy, clearly to avoid idiots like me at their first experience making mistakes at 300 kph...
Wanted to give a look to the tachimeter but couldn't, I really really needed full concentration! The seats are so low that your eyes are basically at ground level, so perspective is quite flat and the turns are difficult to exactly locate!
The gears at the steering wheel, on the other hand, are surprisingly easy to use.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 28, 2013, 08:02:35 pm
Mrs TT wanted to get away for a couple of nights mid week in August... with a little gentle persuasion she started looking in N.Wales/LLyn, and she's just booked a B&B 6-7 miles from Ysgo

:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on July 28, 2013, 08:55:43 pm
That's awesome. Did you sow the seed or was it a fluke? My Mrs banned me from taking my slackline to my brother's wedding in Switzerland 4 years ago. Then she booked us into a hotel with one set up in the garden, with a view of the Eiger. Justice!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 28, 2013, 09:02:41 pm
Sowed the seed. Started with N Wales, then she wanted a beach - I suggested near Abersoch.. ( :) ) and the rest just fell into place \o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on July 28, 2013, 11:04:03 pm
Its not this place is it?
http://www.wales-bb.co.uk/index.html (http://www.wales-bb.co.uk/index.html)
If not highly recommended for another time. Awesome food.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 29, 2013, 08:28:09 am
Its not this place is it?
http://www.wales-bb.co.uk/index.html (http://www.wales-bb.co.uk/index.html)
If not highly recommended for another time. Awesome food.

Its not - but looks fantastic.. one to save for (ahem) next time :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 29, 2013, 09:51:06 am
Quite happy about this.
The glamour boy on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/71236445)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 29, 2013, 10:03:32 am
:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 29, 2013, 10:26:37 am
Very good, but how's your sun salutation? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 29, 2013, 11:15:53 am
Very good, but how's your sun salutation? :)
That's hard!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 30, 2013, 08:50:42 am
 :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 30, 2013, 08:59:24 am
Good work team IO.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 30, 2013, 11:46:39 am
Nice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 30, 2013, 12:10:34 pm
nice got any details of the link up?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on July 31, 2013, 10:21:49 am
Nice, we did Angels Crest a few years back, another great day out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on August 06, 2013, 01:16:33 pm
Two for me:

Got a first overall in my first year of uni :smart:

More importantly (first year doesn't count), I HUNG THE 45 DEGREE SLOPERS ON A BEASTMAKER!!!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 06, 2013, 01:45:04 pm
Not a yoof anymore. Now you're a man my friend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on August 06, 2013, 02:08:55 pm
Hahaha! Thanks :P

Yeah, should probably change my username...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on August 07, 2013, 12:34:28 pm
Nice one Yoof!!

YYFY a girl I coach became the British Open Champ for Cat C at the weekend!
http://robinolearycoaching.com/ (http://robinolearycoaching.com/)
Pretty chuffed for her - came back the next day and flashed all of the routes at our local wall for the Summer comp too!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on August 10, 2013, 10:46:09 pm
Did my first F7b+ "I Punched Judy First" up at Dinbren yesterday eve. YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 10, 2013, 11:07:19 pm
Well deserved Luke.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 10, 2013, 11:28:47 pm
I agree, nice one Luke
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on August 11, 2013, 08:29:09 pm
Ticked my first Frankenjura VIII- yesterday, Devil Wall at the Hexenküche. Redpoint, three goes.

First route at a new Big Number grade on my local scale (sadly not 7a yet though; standard exchange rate seems to be 6c+)

First time I've gone on a route with the intention of working then redpointing it, and succeeded. My previous "redpoint" successes have been failed onsights.

For the first time in Climbing Career 2.0 I've climbed something that's definitely harder than anything I ever did in my dim & distant youth.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on August 11, 2013, 08:35:20 pm
Nice on Muenchener!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on August 11, 2013, 08:45:58 pm


For the first time in Climbing Career 2.0 I've climbed something that's definitely harder than anything I ever did in my dim & distant youth.

That must be well satisfying! Nice work dude  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 11, 2013, 09:25:30 pm
Excellent :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 11, 2013, 09:28:28 pm
There's many a fine tune played on a retuned fiddle! Good work
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 15, 2013, 09:20:30 pm
Strong strong strong BM session today. One armed the incut rung with 6kg on, then added 2 kg to all the other hangs. Hung the 45 with 12 kg for a couple of seconds. Then proceeded to crush board problem in front of perplexed girlfriend. Straight in bed. Currently dining out for the Palio, full of tortellini and red wine. This is good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 15, 2013, 09:44:37 pm
yyfy, climbed obscene gesture at the tor tonight as my first 7c. Chilled session and good company.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on August 15, 2013, 09:50:59 pm
yyfy, climbed obscene gesture at the tor tonight as my first 7c. Chilled session and good company.

Nice one Guy! Not an easy one either.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 15, 2013, 10:03:51 pm
Effort GvG. Injury getting better!

And Lore - sounds like a perfect day!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 15, 2013, 10:20:06 pm
Cheers, unintentional alpine starvation helped a bit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 16, 2013, 06:12:20 am
Cheers, unintentional alpine starvation helped a bit

Did someone attach a mars bar to the chain? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on August 21, 2013, 02:46:13 pm
Not massive in the grand scheme of things but I did punker bunker yesterday. Last time I was on it a few weeks ago it felt impossible.  :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i.munro on August 21, 2013, 05:05:50 pm
Not massive in the grand scheme of things but I did punker bunker yesterday. Last time I was on it a few weeks ago it felt impossible.  :weakbench:

 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 21, 2013, 08:11:47 pm
Its 2am and I'm in a tent dancing enthusiastically to an extremely fine Jon Hopkins set. The young girl next to me grabs my arm and says 'How long have you been raving? I think its just wonderful.' She didn't add but definitely meant 'at your age.' Then her mate tried to buy some pills from us. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry (YYFY or NNFY?) but in the end decided to take it as a (sort of) compliment.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on August 21, 2013, 09:20:41 pm
Its 2am and I'm in a tent dancing enthusiastically to an extremely fine Jon Hopkins set. The young girl next to me grabs my arm and says 'How long have you been raving? I think its just wonderful.' She didn't add but definitely meant 'at your age.' Then her mate tried to buy some pills from us. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry (YYFY or NNFY?) but in the end decided to take it as a (sort of) compliment.

YYFY Andy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on August 21, 2013, 09:58:30 pm
Sounds like heaven!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on August 21, 2013, 11:46:16 pm
Go for it Andy  :hug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 22, 2013, 12:02:49 pm
Flashed a classic sport route (The One And Only at Brin Rock) the other day with a crux where I had to do a full on slap for a shelf from a slopey pinch....with a bolt beneath my feet. The sort of thing that most climbers would take for granted but is a source of some surprise/amazement for me  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on August 22, 2013, 12:15:10 pm
I'm with you on that, nice one  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on August 24, 2013, 05:54:22 am
Just found another new area! Fucking awesome boulders strewn in a small valley creating its own little rainforest... Proper jungle-y. Massive coarse sandstone blocs... So much potential...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SEDur on September 02, 2013, 05:30:41 pm
Finally there were good conditions at the Tor, with is good enough in itself.
Also managed that weedkiller traverse, witch is the first of the grade for me.
Did it twice (almost three times) while working the reverse.

Its been a pretty happy day so far.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 02, 2013, 08:23:55 pm
Its 2am and I'm in a tent dancing enthusiastically to an extremely fine Jon Hopkins set. The young girl next to me grabs my arm and says 'How long have you been raving? I think its just wonderful.' She didn't add but definitely meant 'at your age.' Then her mate tried to buy some pills from us. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry (YYFY or NNFY?) but in the end decided to take it as a (sort of) compliment.

Just seen this. Superb Mr Popp.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on September 02, 2013, 09:55:43 pm
Also did weedkiller today after trying it on and off for 3 years. Then I did all the moves on powerband for the first time. Best days climbing ever. :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on September 08, 2013, 09:27:48 pm
Just did Bucket Feast static :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 11, 2013, 06:45:13 am
Before the guidebook enthusiasts flock to their extensive libraries to find the location of this little known problem, Bucket Feast is the mainstay problem of the Headingley based woodie and rave enthusiast "Tek Noe Board".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on September 11, 2013, 08:29:42 am
Just did Bucket Feast static :weakbench:

That's a great spoonerism
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 11, 2013, 11:21:51 am
Did Purrblind Doomster in Cambusbarron Quarry yesterday. Might not mean much to many people being in a grotty north-facing Central Belt Quarry, but it's a brilliant climb and has inspired me for the last few years....one of the harder things I've done, and whilst not that desperate doing it, possibly the biggest deal for me this year....the crux was trying to calm down my shaking before I set off!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: punkpunk on September 11, 2013, 11:26:20 am
Did Purrblind Doomster in Cambusbarron Quarry yesterday.

Nice one, been keen for that for a while.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 11, 2013, 11:36:48 am
Thanks. It lives up to the quality and does exactly what it promises.

It had gone from "looks cool but well beyond me" in the previous Lowland Outcrops photo, to "maybe I can aspire to that" after doing Chisel and Big Country Dreams in 2009, to "I need to do this" this year. Old inspirations....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on September 11, 2013, 01:16:43 pm
Good effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 11, 2013, 08:29:48 pm
Did Purrblind Doomster in Cambusbarron Quarry yesterday

Fine effort! Looks great in the photos in the blog.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 11, 2013, 10:06:02 pm
Thanks, the pictures kinda don't do it justice, although it does look a bit dank and grotty in real life of course  :2thumbsup:
It's a real classic climb though, good climbing all the way, and great character with it's defining features: thin crack to a good pod, last gear for a while as the crack blanks out, step onto the arete, very committing but steady climbing on blind slopers to a massive jutting spike and a lot of relief.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 12, 2013, 11:04:17 pm
Nice one Fiend. Cracking effort. Gives cripples like me hope of (yet another) comeback.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on September 14, 2013, 03:51:58 am
I climbed from the apron to the first peak of the chief today
18 pitches from bottom to top.

One of the best days out climbing I have ever had
Nothing hard mainly vs standard maybe a couple of hvs pitches. Ended by soloing a short slab to the top of the chief. An amazing feeling.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on September 14, 2013, 04:06:53 pm
By 9 I think we were about half way up banana peel
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2013, 07:17:51 am
8 new problems in an afternoon. Best session on rock for god knows how long. Hands in bits. Detail to follow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richieb on September 15, 2013, 09:36:01 am
Nice one  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on September 15, 2013, 03:34:48 pm
I may be stuck inside writing an essay but a birthday-present-for-me based YYFY

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261285397842 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261285397842)

 :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on September 15, 2013, 08:45:51 pm
Looks BBBIIIIIGGGGGGGGG! :bounce: Hope you've got a big car :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on September 15, 2013, 11:09:38 pm
Seeing as I'm currently flirting with triple digits in those newfangled kilos, I thought one of these might be needed! This, another two mats, a montain bike and shitloads of other kit will all fit in the Mondeo!  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on September 21, 2013, 07:38:05 am
8a. At last ...

That's great.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on September 21, 2013, 08:17:02 pm
8a. At last ...

 :clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 21, 2013, 08:20:27 pm
Great effort Toby!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on September 22, 2013, 03:10:38 am
Thanks! Do let jcm know if you run into him. I recall some vague bet as to which of us might drag our elderly bodies up one first.
Assuming you've won, what do you win?
Chance to retro-bolt a route of your choice?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on September 22, 2013, 07:28:04 am
8a. At last ...
Nice one Toby
Was this Friday on your way to Vancouver good effort after just a couple of days before saying you were still not ready to rp properly
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on September 22, 2013, 06:29:06 pm
Yeah, I rescheduled a couple of things to get a half day at Murrin on Friday. Then "celebrated" by vacuuming our suite ahead of a tenant moving in, then driving 500km to the Okanagan for son #1's football match today.
I reckon some of these superstars could learn a thing or two about how to party from you  :2thumbsup:  congratulations!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on September 22, 2013, 06:44:42 pm
then driving 500km to the Okanagan for son #1's football match today.

 :o  :ohmy:  :blink:

please tell me that's a typo?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 22, 2013, 09:05:16 pm
Sent project Friday.  Pretty sure its my 2nd 8A+!!!   :dance1:

And this one has at least been tried by another hardcore climber.....  Now to climb an established one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on September 23, 2013, 02:46:21 pm
why'd you have to go so far?  Or is that considered normal for a kids footy match?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 23, 2013, 03:29:40 pm
Congrats Habrich and Sasq!!!
 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 23, 2013, 05:13:38 pm
Congrats Habrich and Sasq!!!
 :icon_beerchug:


Thanks!  Feels good to get it done.  It was the top of my project list since last fall, and have barely managed to get out to it this year.  You need a fair number of pads (I used 6 total), its a solid 30 min hike, and none of my partners were really climbing at that grade, so I really owe my partners for being willing to hike and be pad mules, spot and patiently hang out for hours as I tried it....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on September 24, 2013, 05:59:55 pm
The Lost World Offwidth project went down today.

Bit weird to be closing the chapter on that one but Happy and Relieved.

The Beast in  Me; Hard Very Marvelous..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 24, 2013, 06:15:44 pm
Is that THE Beast?? If so, awesome. Get some pictures up!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on September 24, 2013, 08:31:51 pm
Is that THE Beast?? If so, awesome. Get some pictures up!!


Belayer to busy holding the rope I'm afraid, I'm sure I'll go back tho if anyone's feeling snappy, the moves are that good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on September 25, 2013, 09:46:50 pm
Did my first 8a this evening  ;D  a bit of an epic siege of 16 sessions over 6 months! 

Luke - if it's possible for a punter like me then you better get on one..  just need some commitment  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on September 25, 2013, 11:21:09 pm
Nice work!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on September 26, 2013, 03:18:58 am
Did my first 8a this evening  ;D  a bit of an epic siege of 16 sessions over 6 months! 

Luke - if it's possible for a punter like me then you better get on one..  just need some commitment  ;)
Good work Ben - won't have to go back to Cheddar for a while...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on September 26, 2013, 08:33:36 am
Good work Ben - won't have to go back to Cheddar for a while...
indeed Andy - only being able to get on it one evening a week whilst up working has added to the pressure as the evenings drew in!  a winter at the wall awaits
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on September 26, 2013, 08:58:04 am
Did my first 8a this evening  ;D  a bit of an epic siege of 16 sessions over 6 months! 

Luke - if it's possible for a punter like me then you better get on one..  just need some commitment  ;)

Nice work, what was it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on September 26, 2013, 09:10:35 am
Quote from: lukeyboy link=topic=8101.msg420544#msg420544
Nice work, what was it?

BOM BOM  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on September 30, 2013, 09:24:35 am
Did my first 8a this evening  ;D  a bit of an epic siege of 16 sessions over 6 months! 

Luke - if it's possible for a punter like me then you better get on one..  just need some commitment  ;)

Top effort man! Psyched for you, really inspiring stuff making it possible with concentrated effort!

...it's on the cards for next year!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 30, 2013, 09:58:32 am
Far too many steps at Skaha for my liking!

Good name hoseyb, I was trying to get farrar to call one of his probs this last yr but he didn't like it n called it something shit like backstreet mime artist / my any fruit of your choice.

Nice one ben :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on October 05, 2013, 05:32:25 pm
Went to try 'Trust' at Guisecliff today.

Tried it.
Ticked it.
Filmed it.
Loved it.

What a classic problem :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on October 05, 2013, 05:48:39 pm
After 3 sessions over the past few weekends, managed to get up Masada at Witches Point - such a stunning route and my hardest to date. So happy!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 06, 2013, 12:35:21 am
Went to try 'Trust' at Guisecliff today.

Tried it.
Ticked it.
Filmed it.
Loved it.

What a classic problem :2thumbsup:

Effort. Love to have a go.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 12, 2013, 08:13:27 pm
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3746/10231159935_81040e8d24.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/10231159935/)
on the night bus (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/10231159935/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Currently on a late bus to Siena, coming from Rome where I crushed the first exam to become a lawyer. I stink, I'm hungry and I want to deadhang.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on October 12, 2013, 11:30:24 pm
Did a 7A+ eliminate at stoney, reversed weedkiller and did power allowance all within about 3 days. This summer has been great. Time to fail on easy grit now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: honroid on October 13, 2013, 06:10:06 pm
After 3 sessions over the past few weekends, managed to get up Masada at Witches Point - such a stunning route and my hardest to date. So happy!  :2thumbsup:

Nice work! Someone mentioned Witches Point to me today, never come across it before. Is it good climbing?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on October 13, 2013, 07:03:27 pm
After 3 sessions over the past few weekends, managed to get up Masada at Witches Point - such a stunning route and my hardest to date. So happy!  :2thumbsup:

Nice work! Someone mentioned Witches Point to me today, never come across it before. Is it good climbing?

Cheers honroid. Yeah, I've only discovered Witches Point this summer, but I really rate it. Lots of quality 7's (particularly staple diet *** 7b & this god is mine *** 7b+), and Masada is really top class. The only downside is that conditions seem to be quite fickle, it doesn't need to have rained for the crag to be soaked. If you are keen to check it out I would probably hold off until the start of next summer, or wait for a dry period. Conditions tend to be better later in the day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: honroid on October 13, 2013, 09:33:43 pm
Awesome. Sounds good, I'll let you know when I get around to heading over there!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 14, 2013, 11:55:54 am
Had an amazing Indian Autumn weekend in Glen Nevis - 0'c and thick frost in the morning, t-shirt weather in the glorious sun by midday - and did 2 great routes I've been syked for for 3 years. Which brings my autumn ticklist of Scottish classics (and related gems) to:

On The Beach, Glen Nevis - brilliant and scary
Triode, Glen Nevis - great fun
Risque Grapefruit, Glen Nevis - good but dangerous
Colder Than A Hooker's Heart, Creag Dubh - steady and lovely
The Final Solution, Creag Dubh - a bit harder but still lovely
Macdonald, Loch Tollaidh - butch and good fun
Black September, Glen Lednock - technical and good
Wall Of Flame, Diabeg - bloody brilliant
Neart Nan Gaidheal, Ardmair - excellent pumpfest
Cocaine, Rosehearty - excellent cruxy route with a hands off rest
Lady Charlotte, Dunkeld - very involving, committing and intricate
Purrblind Doomster - Cambusbarron - excellent and characterful
Economy Drive, Cambusbarron - hard and continuously interesting
Timpani Wall, Little O Wall - diverse and powerful
Pettifar's Wall, Ratho - delightful steady slab

Might do some bouldering soon or something.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on October 24, 2013, 11:36:36 am
En route to Fontainebleau en famille tomorrow for a week! Psyched! :bounce:
Here is my ticklist:

50 x Pains au Chocolat

Au revoir!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on October 24, 2013, 12:18:52 pm
En route to Fontainebleau en famille tomorrow for a week! Psyched! :bounce:
Here is my ticklist:

50 x Pains au Chocolat

Au revoir!

Me too - can't wait! I will match your 50 pains au chocolat, and raise you by 7 chausson aux pommes and a mille feuille  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 24, 2013, 06:47:22 pm
don't forget to try out the savoury options

eat a croissant jambon on my behalf

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on October 28, 2013, 09:09:23 pm
En route to Fontainebleau en famille tomorrow for a week! Psyched! :bounce:
Here is my ticklist:

50 x Pains au Chocolat

Au revoir!

at least throw in the odd pain aux raisin for variety.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on October 29, 2013, 09:39:12 pm
En route to Fontainebleau en famille tomorrow for a week! Psyched! :bounce:
Here is my ticklist:

50 x Pains au Chocolat

Au revoir!

at least throw in the odd pain aux raisin for variety.

The place in grez sur loing does croissants stuffed with chocolate and almond paste, topped with more almond paste and almonds.

All I'm saying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on October 30, 2013, 11:26:12 am
Found 2 new small bouldering areas today, a steep/roof area in the bush 15min away and some beach side boulders with a bunch of easy stuff about 30min away. Probably 20-30 lines each area...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on October 30, 2013, 04:10:30 pm
Massive weight lifted from my shoulders - been on the cards for a while, but now officially single.

No more nutters for me  ;D

(Silly immature wench dumped me by email - nice personal touch there!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JohnM on October 30, 2013, 04:19:13 pm
You UKB pm inbox is going to inundated now with messages from all the hot female climbers who frequent this site ; )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 31, 2013, 10:36:56 am
Except of course thinking of them as "hot" and maybe even "female" objectifies them  :spank:


 ::) ::) ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 31, 2013, 10:59:45 am
Congratulations, I think. Most people have at least one nutter at some point in their life. i think they are provided as a yard stick for when you meet a good one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on October 31, 2013, 12:12:39 pm
 :agree: Youll be able to spot the nutters very quickly from now on. Just get shot ASAP and move on.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on October 31, 2013, 01:59:08 pm
You should give men a go. They're much more stable and reasonable...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nodder on October 31, 2013, 02:17:40 pm
AS a gay man doylo do you find it offensive when people refer to gay kneebars ect?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on October 31, 2013, 02:20:22 pm
Not at all
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 31, 2013, 06:40:37 pm
Amen to singleness. I was convinced I'd found a good one, but it just wasn't to be. Upshot of being single so far have been taking up running, getting climbing again and feeling decent and spending loads of time with the kids. Downsides so far, not many really! Struggled with being on my lonesome at first but getting there now. Oh and I could do with  :shag: obviously  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 31, 2013, 06:46:48 pm
Congratulations, I think. Most people have at least one nutter at some point in their life. i think they are provided as a yard stick for when you meet a good one.

I'm on a run of 3 straight nutters! When will it end! (last one wasn't a nutter really, just bad timing and life getting in the way  :wavecry:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: highrepute on October 31, 2013, 08:54:51 pm
En route to Fontainebleau en famille tomorrow for a week! Psyched! :bounce:
Here is my ticklist:

50 x Pains au Chocolat

Au revoir!

at least throw in the odd pain aux raisin for variety.

The place in grez sur loing does croissants stuffed with chocolate and almond paste, topped with more almond paste and almonds.

All I'm saying.

I believe the french call that ensemble

Pain aux Sexualle
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on November 01, 2013, 07:30:52 am
AS a gay man doylo do you find it offensive when people refer to gay kneebars ect?
Not at all


I very much doubt there is anything you'd find offensive.

FFS don't share it if there is though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 01, 2013, 08:52:04 am
Congratulations, I think. Most people have at least one nutter at some point in their life. i think they are provided as a yard stick for when you meet a good one.

I'm on a run of 3 straight nutters!

Slow learner!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on November 01, 2013, 11:03:49 am
Slow learner!!

 :guilty:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on November 03, 2013, 07:29:40 pm
On a more positive note, I manged to complete the Derwentwater 10 race today. Came 282nd from 347, in a time of 1.33ish. Fairly pleased as I only started running a month ago!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on November 03, 2013, 07:34:02 pm
First 7A+ yesterday, First 7B today. Feeling strong and psyched! Best weekend bouldering I've had, and in the shitest weather!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on November 03, 2013, 09:43:42 pm
Nice one! Good stuff...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 04, 2013, 01:10:04 am
Not bouldering, but massive YYFY

I redpointed my first First 8b+ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 04, 2013, 02:13:32 am
Actually it is in AK, we've had unseasonable good weather. It's an old project that a friend of mine and I bolted back in 2001-2002ish.  After years, I've finally put it to bed.  I could be wrong on the grade, but it's basically easy 5.11 climbing into a v10/11ish boulder problem to a decent rest, then a v8 into a no hands rest, then bouldery 5.12+ with good rests to finish it out.  A perfect fit for a boulderer. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 04, 2013, 04:35:20 am
Today was 43F, overcast and windy, and we haven't had our first snowfall at sea level yet, so it's still in "season".  We're forecast for Snow on Tuesday/wednesday, and below freezing after, so I feel liked i snuck this one in at the last moment.  Definitely the latest I've ever really climbed  a project in AK.  November is REALLY late to be outside up here.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Danny on November 11, 2013, 10:58:54 am
Inaugural YYFY.

I'm not the sort of guy to ever feel YYFY, or NNFN, but on the climbing front I'm pretty happy to have done my first first ascent since becoming a father, despite a lack of time to do pretty much anything at the mo!

The latter half of this vid:

The last first before and the first since on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79058981)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 11, 2013, 11:25:20 am
Both look cool, where is the Mexico Boulder? (I assume not Mexico!).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Danny on November 11, 2013, 11:44:21 am
It's in the Cooley Mountains, Louth, Ireland. I used to work on a research vessel that went back and forth across the North / South border and the crew used to refer to the South as Mexico. I doubt this was PC, but parts of Louth do have a certain 'bandit country' feel to them.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on November 11, 2013, 10:54:20 pm
After losing hope of finding my cat Verity, she came back today after being missing for 9 days! So, so, so happy!  :hug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 11, 2013, 11:40:11 pm
After losing hope of finding my cat Verity, she came back today after being missing for 9 days! So, so, so happy!  :hug:

Now that's a good news story. Nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on November 12, 2013, 12:31:59 am
I wonder what cats get up to when they just wonder off....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on November 12, 2013, 08:58:54 am
They go to their other house/family.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2013, 09:03:47 am
They go to orgies and get wasted on catnip. Good news on the return though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on November 12, 2013, 09:42:25 am
I wonder what cats get up to when they just wonder off....

Sit and pontificate?

When they go wandering they might do some of this (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b02xcvhw)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 12, 2013, 09:58:00 am
Awwww safe cat return  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 12, 2013, 10:08:52 am
The film is out already

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Y9GA5ZTPL.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 12, 2013, 11:29:10 am
A bit shy about posting this, but since it's good news, why not sharing them?
Last Thursday I got my 1st degree Master in Criminology! I got a final mark of 110/110 and my thesis was really appreciated!
A weekend in Rome then followed!!!
 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on November 12, 2013, 11:35:07 am
Nice work Nibile... now put it to use and commit some uncatchable crimes  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 12, 2013, 11:58:06 am
 ;D :ninja:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on November 14, 2013, 10:42:40 am
A bit shy about posting this, but since it's good news, why not sharing them?
Last Thursday I got my 1st degree Master in Criminology! I got a final mark of 110/110 and my thesis was really appreciated!
A weekend in Rome then followed!!!
 :icon_beerchug:

Congratulations Nibs!  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 14, 2013, 12:09:43 pm
A bit shy about posting this, but since it's good news, why not sharing them?
Last Thursday I got my 1st degree Master in Criminology! I got a final mark of 110/110 and my thesis was really appreciated!
A weekend in Rome then followed!!!
 :icon_beerchug:

 :beer2: :dance1: Nice!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 14, 2013, 07:25:02 pm
A bit shy about posting this, but since it's good news, why not sharing them?
Last Thursday I got my 1st degree Master in Criminology! I got a final mark of 110/110 and my thesis was really appreciated!
A weekend in Rome then followed!!!
 :icon_beerchug:

Way to go!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 14, 2013, 07:34:40 pm
A bit shy about posting this, but since it's good news, why not sharing them?
Last Thursday I got my 1st degree Master in Criminology! I got a final mark of 110/110 and my thesis was really appreciated!
A weekend in Rome then followed!!!
 :icon_beerchug:

Missed this, big congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 14, 2013, 08:07:42 pm
Cheers guys I really appreciate!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 14, 2013, 08:48:36 pm

A bit shy about posting this, but since it's good news, why not sharing them?
Last Thursday I got my 1st degree Master in Criminology! I got a final mark of 110/110 and my thesis was really appreciated!
A weekend in Rome then followed!!!
 :icon_beerchug:

Wow! How did I miss that. Well done Lore!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on November 14, 2013, 09:55:05 pm
Lining up for the next Inspector Montalbano?


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inspector_Montalbano_(TV_series) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inspector_Montalbano_(TV_series))



Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 14, 2013, 10:53:44 pm
 :dance1:
I hope to maintain my shape and hair (what's left of it) for a long time though!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on November 15, 2013, 07:35:51 am
Great yyfy lore!  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 15, 2013, 09:32:49 am
Is there a problem called Fun Lovin' Criminologists? If not there should be.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 15, 2013, 11:27:14 am
Thank you all guys.
This exam marks the end of a year that's literally been epic. Some day I'll try to put it all into words, but it's really been overwhelming at moments.
Thank you all again for the support and the positive karma and vibes, it's great really.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 15, 2013, 12:43:16 pm
The very idea of studying law makes my mind melt so nice one for that. I've only ever got top marks once in anything, a geography exam when I was 14 and I cheated.

Following on from my nnfn tendon slicing episode I am converting to yyfy as my bandages came off yesterday after 4 weeks and approx 12000 hand exercises. Only 2 months to go till I'm back to full strength. I don't think I'll be jamming again in a hurry.

 (http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/shurt/IMAG0848.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 15, 2013, 12:59:34 pm
Good news shurt. Sounds like a quick recovery from something that could have been a lot worse!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 15, 2013, 01:19:08 pm
Is all that from the cut itself, or the repair work? I hope the latter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 15, 2013, 01:46:54 pm
Is all that from the cut itself, or the repair work? I hope the latter.

The cut going left to right was me and the Stanley knife. The other up and down cuts were made by the surgeon to retrieve the two ends of the tendon to reattach. Thank god for modern medicine (in this case anyway)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 15, 2013, 02:11:59 pm
I'm wincing at the thought of it. You should have asked for it to be replaced with steel cabling!

Glad it's healing OK.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 15, 2013, 03:26:27 pm
 :sick:

Good for you mate.
 Next time hide the pic!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 15, 2013, 05:20:19 pm
F*ck me Shurt thats quite an injury! Glad its healing well!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 15, 2013, 05:31:48 pm
Was the doctor distracted and starting carving your initials in the back of your hand?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 15, 2013, 07:07:04 pm
Was the doctor distracted and starting carving your initials in the back of your hand?

I think he was a Harry Potter fan; he was quite young.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on November 17, 2013, 01:52:02 pm
Yeeha! Just completed the Brampton to Carlisle road race, my second ever 10 mile run and my second in two weeks! Managed to shave 12 minutes off the previous time, hauling my ass in a time of 1 hour 21 minutes. Now for a pint  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 17, 2013, 05:50:45 pm
Did Toltec Twostep today, been on the list a very long time. Felt worth E5 on my own with two pads, but would be superb highball 7A or so with a big group.
edit: actually looking at ukc and the guide, I didn't stretch right into the groove but finished straight up- is this TT direct? or is the rh start mentioned in the Nick White guide what's known as TT direct?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 17, 2013, 07:06:43 pm
Did Toltec Twostep today, been on the list a very long time. Felt worth E5 on my own with two pads, but would be superb highball 7A or so with a big group.
edit: actually looking at ukc and the guide, I didn't stretch right into the groove but finished straight up- is this TT direct? or is the rh start mentioned in the Nick White guide what's known as TT direct?

not sure of the ins and outs of this but thats a great effort. i've looked up at that longingly quite a few times. there is no way i'd try it without spotters! nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 17, 2013, 07:52:24 pm
Cheers, yeah def didn't feel like a boulder problem on my own... did manage to reverse to jumping distance from fairly high a few times though. Must have been reading Jules Lines' book too much recently!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on November 18, 2013, 12:02:20 am
Did Toltec Twostep today ... Felt worth E5 on my own with two pads, but would be superb highball 7A or so with a big group.

Good effort.  I've vaguely wondered about this as a highball, so good to know it's a goer, although it looks scary.

... or is the rh start mentioned in the Nick White guide what's known as TT direct?

That was my assumption, but I dunno.  Any locals able to confirm?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on November 18, 2013, 08:29:57 am
good effort on TT, it always looks pretty intimidating!   Lovely conditions on t'moor yesterday weren't they, I had a session at Down Tor
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 18, 2013, 10:56:57 pm
Cheers all, the mat did feel pretty small:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/529496_398455503619554_1835094682_n.jpg)

yeah great conditions, felt like cheating on The Cream Traverse.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on November 18, 2013, 11:05:45 pm
good effort Duma, looks large
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 19, 2013, 07:45:32 am
that mat, is it small, or just far away?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2013, 09:44:14 am
Highball my arse. That's a solo, mat or no mat.

(mmmmm Suspension Flake)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 19, 2013, 11:13:15 am

(mmmmm Suspension Flake)

I mean honestly, who'd put a rope on for that? Photographer or no photographer....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2013, 11:25:09 am
I was tired! Just had a tough morning doing Interrogation and Aviation and been sandbagged by Bendy into failing dramatically on Skin Graft in a pair of shorts and was suffering heavy bloodloss.

(all good excuses!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 19, 2013, 12:18:19 pm
Personally I think you're saved by the camera angle
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2013, 01:21:06 pm
He was generous to me in the crop I'll grant you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 20, 2013, 11:28:09 am
Had a pleasant day at Back Bowden the other day - frozen in the shade, warm in the sun - and did On The Verge (inspired me for about 10 years, very easy and pleasant) and The Tube (inspired me for about 10 days, full on and great value) in an afternoon, which was nice.

Got plenty of winter syke for sandstone and gritstone now  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 20, 2013, 04:23:23 pm
Did Toltec Twostep today, been on the list a very long time. Felt worth E5 on my own with two pads, but would be superb highball 7A or so with a big group

good job. awesome route. I keep pulling on for the solo and bottling it.I remember how much the top holdd needed cleaning before doing it 10or so years ago. did you roll onto your knee in the break?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 20, 2013, 08:17:44 pm
No knees man, what do you take me for!? The LH crappy sidepull/undercut was feeling pretty good so had that, RF on edge of break, then stretch up to flake, match feet, RF to decent foothold out R, match hands, crossover to top of flake, match (this is the higest point I reversed from), smear LF up, LH to little crimp straight above, RF up to decent crystal, RH to good crimp, then to jugs on SF. Not sure what top hold you're referring to, but not sure I did the normal finish...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 20, 2013, 08:42:47 pm
i know you were banding 7a or 7a+around for this as a highball. i appreciate its higher than a lot of other probs on the moor but how does it compare difficultywise with similar graded stuff e.g. the wave or the saddle tor routes? oh and where's the hard move?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 20, 2013, 08:48:38 pm
Never 7A+. without the first 3m I think it'd feel about 6C, but the spice makes it feel a fair bit harder. Crux is supposedly the move out of the first big break, which is fairly safe, but in good conditions it felt fairly sustained to me from the break to the join with SF (though as I said, I didn't move right to the groove but finished straight up)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 21, 2013, 05:41:50 pm
No knees man, what do you take me for!? The LH crappy sidepull/undercut was feeling pretty good so had that, RF on edge of break, then stretch up to flake, match feet, RF to decent foothold out R, match hands, crossover to top of flake, match (this is the higest point I reversed from), smear LF up, LH to little crimp straight above, RF up to decent crystal, RH to good crimp, then to jugs on SF. Not sure what top hold you're referring to, but not sure I did the normal finish...

It was a typo. Should have read holds (all of them)!

I used to throw a right leg deep into the crack and roll up onto a knee to reach up with my right, allowing me to udge off the best bit of the undercut.

FWIW this will never be a highball in my opinion so boulderers shouldn't get their hopes up. Maybe with 10 pads to level out the slope it'd be OK. It's E5 6b and the 'heady' crux is high up. It's a class route. Duma did good  :yes:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 21, 2013, 05:56:29 pm
No knees man, what do you take me for!? The LH crappy sidepull/undercut was feeling pretty good so had that, RF on edge of break, then stretch up to flake, match feet, RF to decent foothold out R, match hands, crossover to top of flake, match (this is the higest point I reversed from), smear LF up, LH to little crimp straight above, RF up to decent crystal, RH to good crimp, then to jugs on SF. Not sure what top hold you're referring to, but not sure I did the normal finish...

It was a typo. Should have read holds (all of them)!

I used to throw a right leg deep into the crack and roll up onto a knee to reach up with my right, allowing me to udge off the best bit of the undercut.

FWIW this will never be a highball in my opinion so boulderers shouldn't get their hopes up. Maybe with 10 pads to level out the slope it'd be OK. It's E5 6b and the 'heady' crux is high up. It's a class route. Duma did good  :yes:

Just to confirm my hopes are not up and I'm not a fully fledged boulderer!
I agree that's its a great effort and having stood underneath it, its not really a boulder prob either. I'd be taking the E5 tick for sure.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on November 21, 2013, 08:18:20 pm
Had a pleasant day at Back Bowden the other day - frozen in the shade, warm in the sun - and did On The Verge (inspired me for about 10 years, very easy and pleasant) and The Tube (inspired me for about 10 days, full on and great value) in an afternoon, which was nice.

Got plenty of winter syke for sandstone and gritstone now  :)

that's sounds like a great day Fiend
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 22, 2013, 10:47:52 am
Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011. still a lot of work to do but it's a start
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on November 22, 2013, 11:25:43 am
Nice one Big Man.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 22, 2013, 11:46:59 am
V7? F7a? Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on November 22, 2013, 02:10:44 pm
Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011.

Nice one Jim, stoked for you.  Hope you had a good time when you where down in Cornwall BTW - let me know if you're in my next of the woods again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 22, 2013, 03:09:12 pm
Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011. still a lot of work to do but it's a start

 :bow: Nice one Jim!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 22, 2013, 04:50:19 pm
Great Jim. Back in the game :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on November 22, 2013, 04:54:07 pm
Welcome back Pregnant Horse
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on November 22, 2013, 05:20:45 pm
Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011. still a lot of work to do but it's a start

Well done Jim! I'm recovering from a 2012 elbow surgery and like you just recently managed 7a again. Appalling how long it takes isn't it?  :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on November 22, 2013, 05:22:50 pm
both well worthy of a YYFY, effort guys.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 22, 2013, 05:45:10 pm
Yes - good news Blunk!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 22, 2013, 06:35:34 pm
Thanks guy's. Would of probably been a bit quicker getting back into it but I had pneumonia last year
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on November 22, 2013, 09:11:17 pm
Bloody hell haven't you got a better excuse than that  :boohoo:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 22, 2013, 09:40:48 pm
Effort Jim.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 23, 2013, 09:01:42 am
 :dance1:
Glad for you both big guys!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on November 23, 2013, 04:57:02 pm
I finally got my fat arse to the top of flying arête. I can finally get stuck into a proper project now that needs a real siege
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 23, 2013, 10:02:30 pm
I finally got my fat arse to the top of flying arête. I can finally get stuck into a proper project now that needs a real siege


Hooray!!!!!!


On a ME note...
I did Great Flake at Caley ground up with pads today.  The crux is at least one and a half elephants high (I counted as I fell!)
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on November 24, 2013, 09:01:03 am
I finally got my fat arse to the top of flying arête. I can finally get stuck into a proper project now that needs a real siege

You're well capable of something significantly harder.  It was obviously just bad mojo that had been holding you back - all you needed was a passing idiot wittering away about his cold fingers to distract you from your own bad vibes!  One thing though, a proper siege would probably involve bloodied fingers - it would be a shame to ruin those natty down mitts - I think you should give them to me for safe keeping  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on November 24, 2013, 10:06:56 am
I did Great Flake at Caley ground up with pads today.  The crux is at least one and a half elephants high (I counted as I fell!)

And I am an old never-was. I remember going circuit training with Craig at Manchester Poly just after he did the FA. I was fit in those days, but somehow confused getting fit with getting better at climbing - that part never happened (yet)

Well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 24, 2013, 10:22:45 am

On a ME note...
I did Great Flake at Caley ground up with pads today.  The crux is at least one and a half elephants high (I counted as I fell!)
 ;D

Holy smoke. That's a good tick. How many pads were there?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 24, 2013, 10:32:14 am
3 stacked and one to the side to step off the wet grass
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on November 24, 2013, 11:31:24 am
I finally got my fat arse to the top of flying arête. I can finally get stuck into a proper project now that needs a real siege

Nice work chap.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 24, 2013, 11:43:31 am
Climbed in the 7th grade outside for I think the first time since snapping my bicep tendon back in February 2011. still a lot of work to do but it's a start

Well done Jim! I'm recovering from a 2012 elbow surgery and like you just recently managed 7a again. Appalling how long it takes isn't it?  :'(

Great commitment gents...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 24, 2013, 08:04:34 pm
Great effort to both the Yorkshire senders there.
Bold effort with no spotters around, Andy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 24, 2013, 08:15:51 pm
3 stacked and one to the side to step off the wet grass

Word
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 24, 2013, 08:55:14 pm
Bold effort with no spotters around, Andy.

I had a spot but always landed like a cat  :smart:
(Check the hands waving around at the bottom of the shot!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on November 25, 2013, 12:00:20 am
:dance1:
Glad for you both big guys!

Thanks Nibile!  Many dark months passed by, but to be fair Jim had it worse than me. Pneumonia!! Fucking hell, that's harsh!  :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on November 26, 2013, 07:28:08 pm
I did suavito at the weekend my first 7B but more chuffed at the fact it's quite scary and has an incredible top move.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on November 26, 2013, 08:11:29 pm
fair play, thats some first 7b
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on November 26, 2013, 09:38:19 pm
Cheers Jim. It's not hard climbing probably only font 7A but I'll take the grade as i think if you add the height and scaryness it adds up to about 7B.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 26, 2013, 09:53:32 pm
I did suavito at the weekend my first 7B but more chuffed at the fact it's quite scary and has an incredible top move.

A landmark event in your climbing career. Nicee one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 27, 2013, 11:59:24 am
A landmark event in your climbing career. Nicee one
What, doing Suavito (which looks amazing and worth a lot of syke) or doing some arbitrary number which the OP admits isn't accurate??  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on November 28, 2013, 12:15:58 pm
not a problem i've beem over-projecting, but still tried occasionally over the last 5 years, never being really close (i used to stick the 2nd move out of 3 on my very best attemps)

monday, on my first try of the season, i managed to dyno for the top, then had a couple of very close attempts, trashed by small imperfections in my footwork.

yesterday i went back and managed it!

then, realizing that i did not film the successful attempt due to a full memory card, i thought "wtf, i'll do one more go just to try and record it"...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WF7CAfg3-MM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WF7CAfg3-MM)

it was very satisfying to climb such a long-time objective twice in a row and with a flowy execution...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 28, 2013, 12:24:05 pm
Bravo!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on November 28, 2013, 01:06:31 pm
then, realizing that i did not film the successful attempt due to a full memory card, i thought "wtf, i'll do one more go just to try and record it"...
smooth...    ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 28, 2013, 01:38:01 pm
A landmark event in your climbing career. Nicee one
What, doing Suavito (which looks amazing and worth a lot of syke) or doing some arbitrary number which the OP admits isn't accurate??  :)

the former.
however grades are not arbitrary to everyone. if they matter to a person then they matter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on November 28, 2013, 04:00:31 pm
Not done anything yet, but am off down to Bishop for a week - am very excited  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on November 28, 2013, 09:02:46 pm
I'm not a number! Just deleted 'candy crush' from my phone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on November 28, 2013, 09:09:03 pm
I'm not a number! Just deleted 'candy crush' from my phone.

That's a big step, everyone else on earth should do this too! Bloody awful (yet terribly addictive) game!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on November 28, 2013, 09:13:34 pm
You're not joking. I haven't read in a month or so. Like crack but less tasty!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on November 28, 2013, 09:29:06 pm
I just tripled (that's right, fucking tripled) my personal best on the four-finger edges on my Beastmaker: 9 seconds, up from 3 two weeks ago. I set a new PB on every other hold and grip type as well.  :weakbench: Pretty much convinced that a lot of my finger weakness was due to undiagnosed finger injures I wasn't letting heal now.

YYFY  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 28, 2013, 09:47:47 pm
There's some phone game that involves getting lots of water to move around the screen and give a crocodile a bath, looks pretty fun. HTH.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on November 28, 2013, 09:58:48 pm
There's some phone game that involves getting lots of water to move around the screen and give a crocodile a bath, looks pretty fun. HTH.

Completed it recently. YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on November 29, 2013, 05:03:51 pm
1. It's the weekend.
2. I don't have to work this weekend.
3. Off to see my lady
4. Getting in a quick trip to the wall tonight.
5. £534 TAX RETURN!! YYFY!!

Me+taxman =  :shag:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 29, 2013, 06:32:31 pm
You've invited the taxman to have carnal relations with your partner? For a £534 fee?

Crikey..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 29, 2013, 06:35:26 pm
Massively spazzed my wrist going some undercut / layaway project on my board last Sunday... Did the problem though :D

5 days of ice and massage.... What I thought was 2 weeks + off will be 1 week max.


Very very happy!!

Gonna take it easy for a bit though

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 29, 2013, 07:20:56 pm
Had a pleasant time dealing with PPI spam today: Got a missed call from 01204238003. Called back of curiosity, and got an actual answer:

Me: "You called this number"

Drone: "Hi! We are a company called HYC. We want to find out if you are eligible for a Payment Protection Insurance claim..."...

Me: "Sorry, did you say you were dealing with Payment Protection claims??"

Drone: "Yes that's right, and...."

Me: "Okay thanks. Can you take my number off your system straight away..."

Drone: "Errr righ...."

Me: "...also please tell your company manager that he is a fucking parasite, and can go fuck himself. In the arse. Thank you!"

*hangs up*

~end~

Pretty much made my day. Might phone them again when I'm in a bad mood.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 29, 2013, 07:35:32 pm
If I didn't have a job and needed to feed the kids I'd take this job. The 'drone' didn't call 'you' and he/she wasn't cussing. Bad skills dude. Get a punch bag.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: flyguy on November 29, 2013, 07:52:28 pm
+1 I hate these calls and think they should be illegal they waste so much of my day at work, as irritating as they are and want to swear at them they are just people doing a pretty crappy job for a crappy wage blame the companies not the "drones"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 29, 2013, 07:57:24 pm
Exactly, that's why I specifically said to pass that message to the company manager, and didn't say it directly to the drone.

And no I wasn't angry, I was happy to have an act of petty revenge.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on December 02, 2013, 02:26:18 am
Not done anything yet, but am off down to Bishop for a week - am very excited  :bounce:

Did High Plains Drifter today - so chuffed  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on December 03, 2013, 12:42:19 pm
I just tripled (that's right, fucking tripled) my personal best on the four-finger edges on my Beastmaker: 9 seconds, up from 3 two weeks ago. I set a new PB on every other hold and grip type as well.  :weakbench: Pretty much convinced that a lot of my finger weakness was due to undiagnosed finger injures I wasn't letting heal now.

YYFY  :dance1:

[Rodma hindsight warning]

Don't post in NNFN in the coming days/weeks that you don't understand how/why you snapped/pulled/popped something in your finger/hand/forearm.

Take it easy, unless you have suddenly lost a lot of weight, then you will be putting greater stresses on your fingers etc. than you ever have before

[/Rodma hindsight warning]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on December 03, 2013, 04:52:08 pm
Not done anything yet, but am off down to Bishop for a week - am very excited  :bounce:

Did High Plains Drifter today - so chuffed  ;D
Great problem!  Nicely done :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 03, 2013, 09:21:47 pm
Exactly, that's why I ....didn't say it directly to the drone.

You might want to consider whether you really are that superior being talking down to an inferior (not quite human?)  'drone' .


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on December 04, 2013, 09:23:00 am
Just walked 1 mile to work without crutches  :2thumbsup: . It's 12 weeks tomorrow since I broke my heel in a fall at Back Bowden Doors. My foot is still really unstable/weak and I can't get a rock shoe on it yet, so I'm still a long way off being fully fit. But I'm well psyched to be rid of the evil crutches!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 04, 2013, 09:26:29 am
Nice one! Know that feeling.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on December 04, 2013, 10:00:39 am
Good to hear Tom, getting there!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 04, 2013, 11:00:23 am
You might want to consider whether you really are that superior being talking down to an inferior (not quite human?)  'drone' .
You might want to consider that I was just using a briefer and more convenient word instead of writing "Payment Protection Insurance Claims Company Telesales Advisory Personnel".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 04, 2013, 11:01:19 am
Good effort Tom. Had a look at County Ethics when I was at Back Bowden. Modern highball blah blah whatever it looks fucking high to come off and miss the pads  :blink:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 09, 2013, 08:57:04 pm
Passed my cross cutting and maintenance, and felling trees up to 380mm in diameter tickets today. Fuck yeah, I have 2 city and guilds qualifications now, I have no idea what that means but I'm drinking a beer and sporting a chubby whilst basking in my own glory.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on December 09, 2013, 09:27:15 pm
Yyfy! Just done LA musse at curbar... Not my first of the grade but probably the hardest. Mainly a yyfy as I've been feeling a bit depressed with my climbing for a few weeks.... Anyway yyfy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on December 09, 2013, 11:07:35 pm
Weeks??  I've been depressed for well over a decade!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 10, 2013, 09:10:28 am
felling trees up to 380mm in diameter

Lumber jack song (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zey8567bcg#)

good work feller (see what I did there!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 10, 2013, 09:29:45 am
Puntastic  :clap2: I saw that one coming  ;) boom boom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 10, 2013, 09:34:41 am
boom boom!

Cross language punning now - impressive

(boom is tree in Afrikaans & Dutch :) )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 10, 2013, 09:53:29 am
Treemendous. I thought my punning skills were log, but it appears knot.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on December 10, 2013, 11:47:53 am
I've been pine-ing for some more puns....  :sick:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on December 14, 2013, 05:59:13 pm
Ticked figure of 8 in toms roof today. Had a few goes on it before but never got close to the crux move at all. Today I did the move second go and did the whole problem pretty quickly. First 7B+  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eth on December 15, 2013, 09:12:53 am
Turned 42 a couple of weeks ago and just got my first 7B+ ;D
And now for some serious Christmas quaffing  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on December 15, 2013, 11:25:40 am
 nice one :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 15, 2013, 11:37:06 am
Turned 42 a couple of weeks ago and just got my first 7B+ ;D
And now for some serious Christmas quaffing  :icon_beerchug:

Cool :) 7C next..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on December 15, 2013, 03:02:06 pm
After the slicing through two tendons on my hand epic in October I've been told I can climb again in a week or two. Easy stuff to start of course but my tendon repair should be back to full strength apparently. Very good news...

Still on the daily physio and movement is approaching normality but the big lump of scar tissue will take a lot more pummeling to get rid of.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 15, 2013, 03:24:42 pm
Good news shurt - just take it steady and you'll soon be back on top form.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nicboarder on December 20, 2013, 12:23:58 am
Turned 42 a couple of weeks ago and just got my first 7B+ ;D
And now for some serious Christmas quaffing  :icon_beerchug:

 :beer2: Nice one Eth   :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 21, 2013, 12:54:55 pm
First V3 flash today indoors - not big news but it made up for not getting leathered last night.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on December 27, 2013, 08:54:59 pm
YYFY!

Did my first ever 8a today.

Indoors at Craggy Island, but well worth the grade.
Outdoors is of course the next goal.
Very happy to get it done before the end of the year, means that I get to tick off one of my 'Aims for 2013'

YYFY!  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mindfull on December 27, 2013, 10:04:45 pm
Congrats Kelvin and Baldy.  Whatever level you climb, it's always good fun to up your grade level  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on December 27, 2013, 10:38:29 pm
got another temp full time contract for 3 months at leek fire station.also,now i can drive on blue lights should be more after that  :) :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tregiffian on December 27, 2013, 11:57:06 pm
Ask me who won the sausages in the meat raffle at Mevagissey Social Club (Lobb`s Farm Shop).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 28, 2013, 07:24:28 pm
5 weeks can seem like an eternity... End of ulna cartilage complex ruptured and broken down... As previous NNFN posts... Steroid injection 3 weeks ago... Did my blessed yoga for an hour today. Felt a huge release that I wasnt hurting it... 2 hours bike dirt jumping after (easy) just a niggle... Time to ride DH MTB and get back on the board.. Cautiously exstactic..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 29, 2013, 08:04:04 pm
Had a productive day at Almscliff. First 7C (The Keel, what else?), Bancroft's Roof and Pebble Wall Variation (big surprise to do this!)

Hooray.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on December 29, 2013, 10:23:13 pm
Had my best day's bouldering ever today did my first 7A+! Psyched!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on December 29, 2013, 10:23:42 pm
Had a productive day at Almscliff. First 7C (The Keel, what else?), Bancroft's Roof and Pebble Wall Variation (big surprise to do this!)

Hooray.

Effort pal!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on December 29, 2013, 10:36:49 pm
Had a productive day at Almscliff. First 7C (The Keel, what else?), Bancroft's Roof and Pebble Wall Variation (big surprise to do this!)

Hooray.

*ahem* I distinctly remember you slating a particular problem saying you didn't want to tick something 'soft' for your first 7c...

welcome to the club :tease:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 30, 2013, 10:05:43 am
Yeah. Will have to go and find a proper one to do now.
Join me in the next crusade. What shall it be? Lager Lager Lager/Crystal Method/Terry/Kermit?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 30, 2013, 10:37:55 am

Yeah. Will have to go and find a proper one to do now.
Join me in the next crusade. What shall it be? Lager Lager Lager/Crystal Method/Terry/Kermit?

Underhand extension for an allegedly softer 7C ;) great job Will
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 30, 2013, 10:48:24 am
Had a productive day at Almscliff. First 7C (The Keel, what else?), Bancroft's Roof and Pebble Wall Variation (big surprise to do this!)

Good work Will, plus all other senders. What's Pebble Wall Variation btw? I know I could google, but.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 30, 2013, 10:56:29 am
Ta. It's an eliminate to the right of Pebble Wall. Just to the left of the big crack that is Central Crack and right of Pebble Wall itself. Start on a jug and get stood up in it using undercuts just above. Get your feet as high as possible and then streeeetch for the top. Morpho.
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/almscliff.html#almscliff__pebble_wall_var (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/almscliff.html#almscliff__pebble_wall_var)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 30, 2013, 11:30:07 am
Ah recognise it now. Remember that chap in the pics showing it to me many moons ago, and me failing dismally on it. Nice tick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 30, 2013, 12:08:01 pm
Just back from having my foot xrayed and no break \o/ a close one I suspect and thankfully no need for a pot over the next few weeks (phew)

(Heel-toe stayed locked in when I fell doing the first moves on brass monkey yesterday - metatarsal #4 looked badly bruised and painful)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on December 30, 2013, 12:42:39 pm
Heel-toe stayed locked in when I fell

F***! Glad to hear you are okay. That is literally one of my biggest fears in bouldering. I once got my whole ankle stuck on the start of the cave problem at robin hood's and was clinging on for dear life whilst my spotter tried to take my weight (not insignificant) and free me. Super scary. I thought I was going to snap my whole leg!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on December 30, 2013, 12:54:57 pm
Heel-toe stayed locked in when I fell

F***! Glad to hear you are okay. That is literally one of my biggest fears in bouldering. I once got my whole ankle stuck on the start of the cave problem at robin hood's and was clinging on for dear life whilst my spotter tried to take my weight (not insignificant) and free me. Super scary. I thought I was going to snap my whole leg!

I once fell of the first moves of the gypsy at almscliff with my heel-toe in, clicked like badly put together mechano as I spun underneath myself, quite fond on close spots with those type of badgers now.

Just back from having my foot xrayed and no break \o/ a close one I suspect and thankfully no need for a pot over the next few weeks (phew)

(Heel-toe stayed locked in when I fell doing the first moves on brass monkey yesterday - metatarsal #4 looked badly bruised and painful)

How's the other leg? more flesh wounds than saving private ryan
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 30, 2013, 01:00:25 pm


How's the other leg? more flesh wounds than saving private ryan

A bit sore - but just a flesh wound ;)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/30/4adugeta.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 30, 2013, 01:50:52 pm
Local prob I've been working has a high heel toe lock and I have to keep avoiding "just having a go" without spotters. Glad it's not too serious for you!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 30, 2013, 06:19:10 pm
Local prob I've been working has a high heel toe lock and I have to keep avoiding "just having a go" without spotters. Glad it's not too serious for you!

Thanks Chris - I'm normally much less 'gung ho' but as there were mats and people about I just went for it without thinking.. that'll learn me!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 30, 2013, 10:33:04 pm
I once carried a very young Andi T down from Almscliff after he busted himself with a heel-toe stuck in that pebble variation.  Didn't know it was him until many years later when I read about it in Summit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 30, 2013, 10:33:41 pm
Glad you're OK Tom...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 30, 2013, 10:40:02 pm
Shiiiiit. Glad to hear you escape unscathed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 30, 2013, 11:02:15 pm
thanks Gents.. lucky one I recon..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Blunk on January 02, 2014, 05:05:56 am
Yes Tom, glad you're safe! That sounds awful! :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on January 05, 2014, 05:44:16 pm
Finally ticked the bulb at Almscliff today! After being one of my top spankings of 2013 it's my first boulder of 2014, get in ;D
Very happy, many sessions and too many times falling at the last hurdle. The siege is lifted  :2thumbsup:

Right now to go somewhere that isn't the Cliff.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on January 05, 2014, 05:59:50 pm
nice one, probably the only tick in the country today
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 05, 2014, 06:16:17 pm
Right now to go somewhere that isn't the Cliff.

I'll believe it when I see it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 05, 2014, 07:03:57 pm
nice one, probably the only tick in the country today

Not so fast.... I managed a mighty 7a tick today (I think that's right: Black Wall traverse). Get me with my great big grades!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on January 06, 2014, 08:10:57 am
Finally ticked the bulb at Almscliff today! After being one of my top spankings of 2013 it's my first boulder of 2014, get in ;D
Very happy, many sessions and too many times falling at the last hurdle. The siege is lifted  :2thumbsup:

Right now to go somewhere that isn't the Cliff.

Top effort! Even more of a tick as the weather has been shocking!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 11, 2014, 05:52:49 pm
So I had a fairly decent session on Tuesday at Eden Rock with Hockstack and TC. Managed to flash one of the "woods" which I was fairly chuffed with. Turns out it's Font 7a, so I'm pretty pleased  :punk:

Have also massively reduced my booze intake, virtually non existent now. Foot is nearly better so running can commence again and back training Thai boxing again next week.

I will be fit and in shape by the summer, by God I will!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris05 on January 13, 2014, 02:27:27 pm
My PhD corrections have been accepted. Nice to have it out of the way as I finished ages ago but everything has been slowed down by the fact that I am working full time in a demanding post-doc.

I don't ever want to look at it again.  :)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: old cheese on January 13, 2014, 10:52:20 pm
 Good work mike. Fancy round 2 down on st bees in feb. me and the family are up for a week again in feb from the 15th to the 22nd and I am guaranteed to get a day of 2'out at least
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 14, 2014, 07:43:56 am
Sounds great Neil. I promise to take more care this time, and may even take more mats and an emergency set of crutches!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 16, 2014, 06:51:53 pm
whilst discussing our plans for moving house, Mrs Starfish asked "would you be able to build a bouldering wall in the new house?"

she brought it up first - her idea

Y Y F Y !
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on January 16, 2014, 07:05:56 pm
whilst discussing our plans for moving house, Mrs Starfish asked "would you be able to build a bouldering wall in the new house?"

she brought it up first - her idea

Y Y F Y !
they understand in the end. We've just had the hallway decorated and mrs rich d told the painter not to fill in or paint over the screw holes where the beast maker normally lives. Just need her to start talking about putting a bouldering wall up in one of the spare rooms now...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on January 16, 2014, 07:20:55 pm
When we moved flat, my missus said it'd be fun to put holds down the hallway....I don't think she realised how often they'd need to be reset.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tresor on January 16, 2014, 07:57:54 pm
whilst discussing our plans for moving house, Mrs Starfish asked "would you be able to build a bouldering wall in the new house?"

she brought it up first - her idea

Y Y F Y !

Be careful, wife gave me the idee to build a wall in the garage. Said and done.

The first time I was going to our ordinary training wall with my friends I was told I could train at home after the kids were put to bed....


//Tresor
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 17, 2014, 05:59:19 am
train at home after the kids were put to bed....

this would be the main reason for having it

my main worry is that I will invest many sessions developing the hardest problems I can manage and when Jasper comes round he will climb them in his trainers whilst holding a glass of wine in one hand
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rossydoodle61 on January 17, 2014, 08:25:09 am
.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tresor on January 17, 2014, 08:31:06 am

this would be the main reason for having it

my main worry is that I will invest many sessions developing the hardest problems I can manage and when Jasper comes round he will climb them in his trainers whilst holding a glass of wine in one hand

Going to the wall with friends isn't that much about climbing then your on parental leave with a 2,5 and a 1.5 year old, it's more about an hour of actual social interactions with grown ups who's main interest isn't eating, shitting and sleeping patterns of their own infants....

Climb and train for climbing I can do in the garage :)

//Tresor
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on January 17, 2014, 08:43:52 am

this would be the main reason for having it

my main worry is that I will invest many sessions developing the hardest problems I can manage and when Jasper comes round he will climb them in his trainers whilst holding a glass of wine in one hand

Going to the wall with friends isn't that much about climbing then your on parental leave with a 2,5 and a 1.5 year old, it's more about an hour of actual social interactions with grown ups who's main interest isn't eating, shitting and sleeping patterns of their own infants....

Climb and train for climbing I can do in the garage :)

//Tresor
I reckon most of the folk on here's social interactions do revolve around eating, sleeping and a shed load of shitting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on January 17, 2014, 09:06:44 am

this would be the main reason for having it

my main worry is that I will invest many sessions developing the hardest problems I can manage and when Jasper comes round he will climb them in his trainers whilst holding a glass of wine in one hand

Going to the wall with friends isn't that much about climbing then your on parental leave with a 2,5 and a 1.5 year old, it's more about an hour of actual social interactions with grown ups who's main interest isn't eating, shitting and sleeping patterns of their own infants....

Climb and train for climbing I can do in the garage :)

//Tresor
I reckon most of the folk on here's social interactions do revolve around eating, sleeping and a shed load of shitting.

Plus I think the term 'grown ups' is stretching it a bit...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 17, 2014, 09:40:28 am
Yup, seen bigger hissy fits at boudering comps than my kids have ever managed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 17, 2014, 10:30:04 am
I reckon most of the folk on here's social interactions do revolve around eating, sleeping and a shed load of shitting.

Hehe  :guilty:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 17, 2014, 11:19:59 am
train at home after the kids were put to bed....

this would be the main reason for having it

my main worry is that I will invest many sessions developing the hardest problems I can manage and when Jasper comes round he will climb them in his trainers whilst holding a glass of wine in one hand

I thought I was still improving and getting stronger on my board, and on rock. Then a couple of friends walked my projects and repeated problems I'd spent lots of time on, so I understood that only my perception of difficulty had improved, not my strength or ability.
Things seemed hard, and they were not.
Booooo.
Time to buy new shoes, and hang them!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on January 19, 2014, 09:27:32 pm
Did 'Harvey Oswald' in Ogwen Valley today. Never been so psyched topping out a problem! Wanted to do it ever since I started climbing and seen the picture of Katz on it in the NWB guide. A day lived!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 19, 2014, 09:37:40 pm
Bon effort! Having tried this myself, I can appreciate the oomph needed. Nice one  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on January 20, 2014, 07:17:49 am
Time to buy new shoes, and hang them!!!

The shoes or the friends?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 20, 2014, 10:58:32 am
Subtle.
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on January 20, 2014, 12:40:30 pm
Did 'Harvey Oswald' in Ogwen Valley today. Never been so psyched topping out a problem! Wanted to do it ever since I started climbing and seen the picture of Katz on it in the NWB guide. A day lived!

Happy days!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on January 20, 2014, 04:03:48 pm
Did 'Harvey Oswald' in Ogwen Valley today. Never been so psyched topping out a problem! Wanted to do it ever since I started climbing and seen the picture of Katz on it in the NWB guide. A day lived!

Nice one la, quite a stout 7a
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on January 20, 2014, 04:56:04 pm
Nice work Luke! Get on the sitter next, quality moves! Clue: get even lower down into the hole than you think ; )

16 years after meaning to get round to it, I crushed the driving theory test today. Puntered two questions from fifty which was a shame but half way to driving nonetheless. Very happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2014, 11:46:11 am

16 years after meaning to get round to it, I crushed the driving theory test today. Puntered two questions from fifty which was a shame but half way to driving nonetheless. Very happy.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alan-Partridge-Essentials/lm/R25MTER3W3DK4H (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alan-Partridge-Essentials/lm/R25MTER3W3DK4H)

Pair of number 4 for you if you pass first time!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on January 21, 2014, 11:47:16 am
Cheers guys!

Nice work Luke! Get on the sitter next, quality moves! Clue: get even lower down into the hole than you think ; )

16 years after meaning to get round to it, I crushed the driving theory test today. Puntered two questions from fifty which was a shame but half way to driving nonetheless. Very happy.

Yeah I'm keen for the sitter! Nice one on the theory bud!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 21, 2014, 09:12:15 pm
Nice work Luke! Get on the sitter next, quality moves! Clue: get even lower down into the hole than you think ; )

16 years after meaning to get round to it, I crushed the driving theory test today. Puntered two questions from fifty which was a shame but half way to driving nonetheless. Very happy.
Come on!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on January 22, 2014, 12:13:41 am
Im in for a stay next time I'm in Squamish! (Who knows when that'll be though...)

Congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 22, 2014, 03:58:01 am
Habrich could you put signs up to direct people to the singularity? Nice one on the house!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on January 22, 2014, 09:42:33 am
Nice one Toby shame you did not do this 12months ago ;-)

As for singularity looks incredible and not hard to find for any one in the woods or trying dreamcatcher. I stood under it with tom and Pete but they seemed more interested in the unclimbed(?) disgusting looking crack with rusty pitons below dream catcher.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on January 22, 2014, 04:59:52 pm
As for singularity looks incredible
+1

And in the middle of one of the most popular bouldering areas in north america. Yet unrepeated. Must be properly hard. Tim Clifford should be on Shark's interview list.
Second the motion.  I've been through most of the main boulder areas in the US looking at the hardest lines, and the Singularity is the only one that I truly just can't even imagine how to climb. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on January 22, 2014, 05:07:01 pm
Carlo Traversi tried it recently with no luck
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2014, 09:32:05 am
As for singularity looks incredible
+1

And in the middle of one of the most popular bouldering areas in north america. Yet unrepeated. Must be properly hard. Tim Clifford should be on Shark's interview list.
Second the motion.

+1 Maybe OI2 shoudl start doing some of the interviews!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 26, 2014, 06:42:03 pm
 :goodidea:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on January 27, 2014, 05:19:55 pm
Managed to go outside Bouldering in Alaska in January and also put up two new FA's a nice 7A I had been eyeing for a while, and a new 7A+ that is one of my top 5 favorites in AK. It's a rad line that has it all.  Tall, Aesthetic, Dyno, kneebar, heelhook, crimp, pinch, sloper, undercling!!  It was incredible.   :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on January 27, 2014, 07:55:55 pm
and a new 7A+ that is one of my top 5 favorites in AK. It's a rad line that has it all.
Any pics?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on January 27, 2014, 09:21:09 pm
I'll put a AKClimber post with pics tonight! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on January 28, 2014, 11:21:19 am
I'll put a AKClimber post with pics tonight!
looks like a nice line!  Love the fact you were pulled in on skis by dogs, that's gotta be pretty unique
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 28, 2014, 11:27:45 am
I've been pulled by dogs before. Needless to say I was very, very drunk.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on January 28, 2014, 01:39:07 pm
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/22/11/342581_24500_XL.jpg)

(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/56/94/108615694_medium_7eabc8.jpg?1390878848)

The mega proj
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 28, 2014, 02:04:31 pm
8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on January 28, 2014, 02:10:29 pm
That looks amazing. Is it a cooperative in Sheffield and can I join ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on January 28, 2014, 03:14:03 pm
The mega proj

 :o That is amazing...

Looks like it's in a house?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on January 28, 2014, 03:30:33 pm
Thanks guys! It's in the back building at my property in Bishop :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 28, 2014, 03:36:35 pm
That looks amazing. Is it a cooperative in Sheffield and can I join ?

So that's a big negative on that one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on January 28, 2014, 04:12:31 pm
Agreed.  That looks Amazing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on January 28, 2014, 04:39:51 pm
Nice. Are you having this weird non-winter in Alaska too?

Indeed we are.  I'm not sure what it's like overall down there, but it's totally shit up here.  The snowpack is totally rotten with natural avalanches happening on 20-30 degree slopes.  Have you seen any of the pics of the avalanche in Valdez?  Massive blocking the road for a huge stretch.  http://www.cnn.com/2014/01/27/us/alaska-valdez-avalanches/ (http://www.cnn.com/2014/01/27/us/alaska-valdez-avalanches/)  There's some doubt if the snowpack will recover for this season at all. Despite getting out for a day of bouldering, it's not really worth it.  I'd rather some decent snow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 28, 2014, 04:50:59 pm
Fuck! That's a lot of snow.

Fox News says there's nothing to worry about though so it's ok.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 28, 2014, 04:59:09 pm
Fuck! That's a lot of snow.

Fox News says there's nothing to worry about though so it's ok.

:D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on January 29, 2014, 08:21:48 am
Nice. Are you having this weird non-winter in Alaska too?
I'd rather some decent snow.
Yup. I probably jinxed the weather by buying a splitboard back in October.

I didn't help by getting M jnr a new board for Christmas either. We had to go to a glacier in search of a bit of snow on Boxing Day, since then it hasn't been out of the cellar  :(

It's not even as if I could go climbing instead. It's like a fscking Englsh winter here at the moment - a couple of degrees above freezing, with that raw dampness that feels much colder than minus fifteen, dry and sunny. Not at all what I emigrated for.  :furious:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on January 29, 2014, 08:57:28 am
Winter has turned around here in Chamonix - we're finally getting some decent dumps of snow. If you're in the area gimme a shout  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 29, 2014, 09:43:25 am
It's like a fucking Englsh winter here at the moment

Glad you said English and not British - we've got shitloads of snow up here.

http://www.highland-instinct.co.uk/skiresorts/glenshee/index.php (http://www.highland-instinct.co.uk/skiresorts/glenshee/index.php)

Patrollers at Glenshee are saying snow is better than it was in winter 09/10.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on January 29, 2014, 10:33:01 am
Mid 30s most days here... Slightly too warm...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 30, 2014, 09:49:06 pm
It's like a fucking Englsh winter here at the moment

Definitely British as well. Scotland might have had the odd decent dump on the mountains where it's cold enough for the mild rain to do something useful, but otherwise it's been as shitty and non-wintery as you could imagine. I don't think it's been below 0'c in the Central Belt all winter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on January 31, 2014, 11:33:08 am
Rubbish in NW Highlands as well.I don't think we've had a proper frost yet, just mild and wet since October.Very disappointing after last year which was months of cold,dry and calm.Off to Glen Nevis this w/e,gotta get lucky at some point :wall:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 03, 2014, 04:17:08 pm
It snowed in California! I didn't get up to ride in the powder though, I was too busy framing the 60-20 degree bulge.

(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/54/58/108625458_medium_9b7d08.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 03, 2014, 04:26:40 pm
fuck that, go riding
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 03, 2014, 04:33:22 pm
I've used my season pass exactly once this year. The day after supposedly 40 cm new snow, hit the reef coming over a roll and did face/shoulder plant through to the dirt and rocks. Not worth the price to my board and/or body, and I cannot for the life of me convince myself to stay on the piste once I get up there. Our season total sits under 200 cm, last year at this time we had over 500. Plus the monster pictured above lurks at all hours in the corners of my mind, whispering - "Come finish me!" For four weeks it is all I have done besides work, and I don't think I will stop until she is complete :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on February 03, 2014, 05:06:41 pm
That beast is a beauty!  Or will be when she's done.

Do you know Keith? (in bishop)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 03, 2014, 05:35:22 pm
Thank you! I know several Keiths but I assume you mean Keith the Brit, in which case I have met him several times but wouldn't say I know him well, necessarily.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on February 03, 2014, 08:57:22 pm
Actually meant Lindquist.  He used to live in AK and I climbed with him a bit.  Stayed with him a couple nights last Jan when in Bishop.  Short stocky and strong as F&*(.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2014, 08:38:17 am
Our season total sits under 200 cm, last year at this time we had over 500.

Seems CA is having an amazingly log season (like other parts of the west coast) CO seems to be having a bumper though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on February 04, 2014, 10:29:07 am
(http://i.imgur.com/oDa1p64.jpg)

The siege has been completed!

3 years or so - Woop!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 04, 2014, 03:07:15 pm
I don't think I know a Keith Lindquist. Strange, I thought I knew every climber in this town!

And yes California's season has been total  :shit: this year. The worst winter on record here was 76-77 with a total snowfall of 240 cm for the season. Second worst is around 500 cm, we are at 150 cm at the moment. We are on pace to either break the record or runner up. Chances look vanishingly small to reach 500 at any rate, nothing but sun in the forecast again. Good winter to be bouldering, good winter to be doing carpentry, will be an amazing early alpine season so i guess it can still be a yyfy depending how you look at it.

(http://www.zerohedge.com/sites/default/files/images/user5/imageroot/2014/02/CA%20snowpack.png)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 04, 2014, 03:42:01 pm
(http://i.imgur.com/oDa1p64.jpg)

The siege has been completed!

3 years or so - Woop!

Effort :) How was the top out?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2014, 04:01:05 pm
Good winter to be bouldering, good winter to be doing carpentry, will be an amazing early alpine season so i guess it can still be a yyfy depending how you look at it.


Guess Tioga will be open sooner than usual too?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 04, 2014, 04:11:45 pm
Guess Tioga will be open sooner than usual too?

That seems quite likely. Springtime in the Valley, Yes! :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 04, 2014, 04:14:15 pm
Guess Tioga will be open sooner than usual too?

That seems quite likely. Springtime in the Valley, Yes! :)

Not good for the drought/water shortage though.. doesnt most of the water resources for the region depend on snowmelt?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2014, 04:25:41 pm
LA City Council bought most of the land in Owen's Valley up just for the water rights. Fuck 'em.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on February 04, 2014, 04:30:07 pm
It's not just LA.  It's all of California.  The whole central northern region depends on that water as do the farmers in the central valleys.  Don't be surprised to see produce costs in teh US go up....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 04, 2014, 04:34:34 pm
It's not just LA.  It's all of California.  The whole central northern region depends on that water as do the farmers in the central valleys.  Don't be surprised to see produce costs in teh US go up....

Yup - I get regular tweet snowpack updates on it from my friend in San Fran...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 04, 2014, 05:26:39 pm

Not good for the drought/water shortage though.. doesnt most of the water resources for the region depend on snowmelt?

Much of the water for the greater LA area now comes from the Colorado River, though they still take every drop that they can get from the Owens Valley as well. But I could care less if their swimming pools dry up and the grass on their golf courses dies. The Central Valley, however, is supposedly the most productive region of farmland on the planet. If you notice in the satellite picture what the central valley looked like last year compared to now, it's pretty scary. Last year the whole valley was green at this time and tons of snow in the mountains. This year the green and white are replaced with brown and brown. We will see what happens, but I do think it will be ugly.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on February 04, 2014, 06:20:16 pm
I read something in Nat' Geographic suggesting that the western states have been populated in an unusually wet period of a very dry area. It suggested that the large population is likely to be unsustainable due to water limitations in the near future even if their water consumption is modest.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 04, 2014, 06:58:19 pm
I read something in Nat' Geographic suggesting that the western states have been populated in an unusually wet period of a very dry area. It suggested that the large population is likely to be unsustainable due to water limitations in the near future even if their water consumption is modest.

Indeed, I read that article as well. It's a bit scary to think that this year might be the new normal. Here in the Owens Valley, however, we actually have far more water than we need to sustain the population. Water has been the limiting factor in growth, but growth was arrested at the level which could be sustained on less than 10% of the water which is actually here. Los Angeles is currently taking 90+% of it, as they have for a century. This is the max they are allowed to take by law, but I have no doubt that as the water situation worsens there will be lawsuits filed by the city of LA to allow them to take more, and there a smaller pool to draw from, so we will see what happens. Ugliness, no doubt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on February 04, 2014, 08:40:53 pm
Minor YYFY - Matched personal best on FB 1 year of rupturing my a2.  Felt good and like I could do more as well :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on February 04, 2014, 09:43:50 pm
Effort :) How was the top out?

There was a puddle, and I'll confess to full crimping the flake before reaching up to the lip.
Fortunately there was a large enough dry spot to 'swimming pool mantle' my way out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on February 07, 2014, 01:24:50 am
Had a bit of a NNFN the other day dwsing. Tore a deep chunk out of a fingertip. Not been able to climb all week now. BUT! Found a new area this morning. Wing Cave-esque caves, Bomaderry Creek-esque walls and lots of free standing boulders along a creekbed... Easily spotted ~50 lines I want to do and I barely explored the area. I reckon potential for 200+ lines... Let the fun begin...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 07, 2014, 03:34:38 pm
Had a bit of a NNFN the other day dwsing. Tore a deep chunk out of a fingertip. Not been able to climb all week now. BUT! Found a new area this morning. Wing Cave-esque caves, Bomaderry Creek-esque walls and lots of free standing boulders along a creekbed... Easily spotted ~50 lines I want to do and I barely explored the area. I reckon potential for 200+ lines... Let the fun begin...

Loving your DWS shots. In what region are these areas that you are developing?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on February 07, 2014, 03:42:06 pm
When is a good time to visit Aus Jack?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on February 07, 2014, 10:07:14 pm
Had a bit of a NNFN the other day dwsing. Tore a deep chunk out of a fingertip. Not been able to climb all week now. BUT! Found a new area this morning. Wing Cave-esque caves, Bomaderry Creek-esque walls and lots of free standing boulders along a creekbed... Easily spotted ~50 lines I want to do and I barely explored the area. I reckon potential for 200+ lines... Let the fun begin...

Loving your DWS shots. In what region are these areas that you are developing?

Around Nowra, about 3 hours South of Sydney.

When is a good time to visit Aus Jack?
Either end of winter for best climbing temps... Late May/early June or late August/early Sept. Colder in between but usually rains alot more.

Or for DWS, Oct through to April really... I just can't go soloing in the same temps as the UK! I won't go when its even in the low 20s!  :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on February 09, 2014, 09:06:40 am
Hatch Life High, first 8A yesterday.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 09, 2014, 10:36:13 am
Nice one Ally!  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 09, 2014, 12:00:40 pm
 :dance1:
Congrats!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 09, 2014, 02:18:20 pm
At long last ready for ply

(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/63/42/108646342_medium_bbfa2b.jpg?1391955297)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on February 09, 2014, 07:00:56 pm
I couldn't really work out the scale until I saw someone in the photo!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on February 09, 2014, 07:37:21 pm
you spawny get  :tease:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on February 09, 2014, 09:36:17 pm
Hatch Life High, first 8A yesterday.  ;D

Effort! Psyched for you pal!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 11, 2014, 07:52:06 pm
Did zaff skoczylas lay down and the right wards finishing variant today for my first two 7c's. Well pleased!! Was brilliant out there tonight I'm the snow! :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 11, 2014, 07:54:20 pm
Nice one, you are indeed the snow :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 11, 2014, 07:56:38 pm
I am the snow? Stupid spell correct... In the snow# haha   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2014, 10:05:36 am
I liked that song "Informer" you did a few years back.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 12, 2014, 12:06:06 pm
Had to google that.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2014, 12:13:24 pm
Sorry should have embedded. 22 years ago, feels like it was yesterday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 12, 2014, 12:21:15 pm
I was one year old so missed out unfortunately :slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on February 12, 2014, 01:48:20 pm
This could catch on. Nail a problem and shout "I AM THE SNOW!!!". Can just hear a bunch of annoying Yanks "Send it dude, you're the snow!". Etc.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2014, 01:56:59 pm
first vid gets a wad point.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 12, 2014, 04:50:03 pm
Damn. Missed a was point there!!! Ill head back when it dries out wearing white clothes!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 12, 2014, 05:16:06 pm
This could catch on. Nail a problem and shout "I AM THE SNOW!!!". Can just hear a bunch of annoying Yanks "Send it dude, you're the snow!". Etc.  ;D

This would be perfect in an East Yorkshire accent... "I am the sneurgh"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on February 12, 2014, 09:34:41 pm
This would be perfect in an East Yorkshire accent... "I am the sneurgh"

Sounds like Andy K - Hull's Second Third Best Climber - is very much "the sneurgh" just now or has been recently, judging by his twitter account.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on February 12, 2014, 09:57:47 pm
If we are talking rock climbing, Andy K probably wouldn't even make Hulls top twenty.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 13, 2014, 11:34:45 am
As usual not a climbing related YYFY, but I just took another exam to become a lawyer, and the examination board told me I had done good.
So in a few weeks I should be able to go in Court for minor cases.
Still quite tense at the moment, as I could not let out a massive roar as after climbing a new problem setting a new fingerboarding PB!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csl on February 13, 2014, 12:12:44 pm
Going to Rodellar in May! YES!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on February 13, 2014, 06:09:31 pm
As usual not a climbing related YYFY, but I just took another exam to become a lawyer, and the examination board told me I had done good.
So in a few weeks I should be able to go in Court for minor cases.
Still quite tense at the moment, as I could not let out a massive roar as after climbing a new problem setting a new fingerboarding PB!!!
Congrats, that's awesome.

I have this mental image of you in a courtroom and the judge ruling in your favor and you letting out a primal roar while ripping your shirt in half like the HULK!  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 14, 2014, 05:45:45 pm
 ;D
Hopefully it will happen soon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: i_a_coops on February 14, 2014, 07:02:09 pm
Going to Rodellar in May! YES!

Flights booked :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 21, 2014, 04:40:46 pm
Well its kind of a YES, YES, FUCKING NO!! but..

After 2 1/2 years of trying I reached the 'porthole' (or jug) on West Side Story. I then failed miserably to top the problem out and plopped off :(

Still - pleased I did the physically hard part of the problem - just the mental part now!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on February 21, 2014, 04:47:33 pm
Well its kind of a YES, YES, FUCKING NO!! but..

After 2 1/2 years of trying I reached the 'porthole' (or jug) on West Side Story. I then failed miserably to top the problem out and plopped off :(

Still - pleased I did the physically hard part of the problem - just the mental part now!

Unlucky!
Queue the ladders comments...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 21, 2014, 04:50:04 pm
did @UKBshark get it too?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 21, 2014, 05:03:06 pm
Well its kind of a YES, YES, FUCKING NO!! but..

After 2 1/2 years of trying I reached the 'porthole' (or jug) on West Side Story. I then failed miserably to top the problem out and plopped off :(

Still - pleased I did the physically hard part of the problem - just the mental part now!

Unlucky!
Queue the ladders comments...

Not so much unlucky - more unprepared!
I've not tried the top section alone and unexpectedly found myself holding the jug. The top section is erm - rather high and steeper than it looks from the deck! Afterwards I tried the top part on its own a few times, and didn't feel especially confident - it had started to drizzle...

No ladders were involved in my ascent :)

Lagers - Shark was still trying when I left him, but conditions were deteriorating... the problem was staying dry but it was pretty wet/damp underfoot etc.. Not ideal.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 21, 2014, 07:53:42 pm
Wet under his foot or the ladders foot?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 21, 2014, 08:02:28 pm
I think the rungs were serviceable :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 21, 2014, 10:01:08 pm
The top is at least 66% PMA. If you commit you'll pull through. Beta: From jug, go right hand out to smaller pocket. Up with left to obvious boss sloper below crack. Run right foot up to break, right hand stretch to small but positive sidepull - COMMIT - TOP.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 22, 2014, 10:49:57 am
The top is at least 66% PMA. If you commit you'll pull through. Beta: From jug, go right hand out to smaller pocket. Up with left to obvious boss sloper below crack. Run right foot up to break, right hand stretch to small but positive sidepull - COMMIT - TOP.

Thanks JB. I was trying that sequence and got as far as running my RF up in to the break.. but the sloper was feeling greasy/damp (and I was cowardly) so gave it a rest for the day...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: EdGowSmith on February 22, 2014, 10:32:49 pm
Not a major YYFY, but had three awesome days of climbing where it didn't rain (at least not too much :P) and managed to do a few V6s and 7s, despite the fact that I forgot my new shoes and so was left with ones with holes in the front!

Also did a problem that I got totally shut down on in the Summer, and yet felt easy this time! Nothing like a good bouldering trip to get me psyched to train more. ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on February 23, 2014, 01:06:18 am
Bagged myself Vienna at Bowden today during a brief visit after a near flash last year. Such a great problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on February 23, 2014, 08:48:01 am
Bagged myself Vienna at Bowden today during a brief visit after a near flash last year. Such an eroded problem.

Fixed that for you ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on February 23, 2014, 09:39:55 am
Yeah, it would be interesting to know what it was like originally. Still climbs really well despite the wear.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on February 23, 2014, 10:40:21 am
Bagged myself Vienna at Bowden today during a brief visit after a near flash last year. Such a great problem.
good effort mate
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 23, 2014, 11:42:20 am
Finished.

(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/49/37/108684937_medium_8e5fda.jpg?1393155548)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on February 23, 2014, 01:11:43 pm
Finished.

(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/49/37/108684937_medium_8e5fda.jpg?1393155548)

Hot shit, that looks incredible!

Good work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on February 23, 2014, 03:53:58 pm
 :jaw: :wub: :wub: :wub:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 23, 2014, 10:07:00 pm
A beauty.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on February 23, 2014, 11:38:12 pm
Finished.

(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/49/37/108684937_medium_8e5fda.jpg?1393155548)
Fuck me - that is quite the home wall - good effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 24, 2014, 12:13:25 am
Thanks guys, lots of hard work and monetary investment, but I think it will be worth it.

Nibile, you were part of my inspiration. I remember a long time ago you said that you built yourself a wall and it changed your life. So I went for it. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 24, 2014, 05:24:41 am
But look at him now pyrosis, a lawyer that climbs 3 times a year  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 24, 2014, 07:53:11 am
 :'( :'( :'(
 ;D
Cheers Pyro, that's very kind of you, and I'm happy to know I helped you in some way.
But I only built a 4x4 meters flat board, not a wall that's better than most Italian commercial climbing gyms.
I hadn't understood that it was a home wall!!!
Ok, ok, yours is bigger.
 :lol: amazing work.
You'll have a lot of fun and you'll improve massively.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 24, 2014, 11:23:26 am
I only built a 4x4 meters flat board....You'll have a lot of fun and you'll improve massively.

Thanks man, but to be fair the centerpiece of the arrangement is the 4x4 meter 45 wall in the left of the pic, probably quite similar to yours I'd imagine. The rest is just bonus :) And yes I am having a lot of fun so far, the only problem seems to be finding decent warmups :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 24, 2014, 05:30:53 pm
Pyrosis that is immense, well done! Many good times to come I sense for you!

Had a 9am weekly weighin with a pal for the past few weeks to get down to Johnny G style weight. Been peeling away a pound or two each week but an intense virus lost me 5lbs this last week. YYFY, made up!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2014, 09:33:50 am
the only problem seems to be finding decent warmups :D

Not like you didn't have any room to make a near vertical bit? Great construction, how much do you charge for membership? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on February 25, 2014, 09:42:45 am
but an intense virus lost me 5lbs this last week. YYFY, made up!

Mono, this happened to me. Don't underestimate how much a virus affects you. I took me a few weeks to get over it, you don't want to be getting into the area of post viral fatigue.

(I felt light, so could hold small (for me) holds but had no oomph - put it all back on now though!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mindfull on February 25, 2014, 10:59:13 am
Pyrosis, I seem to have the impression when you do something, you do it well. That is the most impressive home wall I've ever seen. :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 25, 2014, 03:14:40 pm
Pyrosis, I seem to have the impression when you do something, you do it well. That is the most impressive home wall I've ever seen. :great:

Thanks mate, now I can't wait to get off work to go home and train!  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2014, 03:36:29 pm
I always wonder is that the Church of Lost and Found Left Hand in your profile pic?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on February 25, 2014, 10:01:03 pm
I always wonder is that the Church of Lost and Found Left Hand in your profile pic?

That is the one, good eye my friend. And - there is a near vertical bit, i guess I just have to be satisfied with shorter warmups as its only 8' high there. As I'm 6'2 this is like two moves from the sit to the top :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2014, 09:55:06 am
Cool piece of rock. I only did RH version, I had a badly knackered ankle so didn't fancy higher crux on LH. Also did a new prob up middle of wall opposite, but it never made it into the guide :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 28, 2014, 08:55:23 am
Aurora last night, get in. Looks like gme got some amazing pics, mine are OK, but battery died!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on March 01, 2014, 10:36:23 pm
First time on rock in ages (two years??) and I did a damp 6b and 6c, and was soooo close to 7a in a session. Bloody crap.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on March 03, 2014, 11:07:52 pm
Hurrah!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on March 03, 2014, 11:58:14 pm
but an intense virus lost me 5lbs this last week. YYFY, made up!

Mono, this happened to me. Don't underestimate how much a virus affects you. I took me a few weeks to get over it, you don't want to be getting into the area of post viral fatigue.

(I felt light, so could hold small (for me) holds but had no oomph - put it all back on now though!)

I felt super drained for several days after galpinos - You're quite right about feeling fatigued.

Managed to keep my weight at the low just about but going to get re involved with training on Wednesday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 04, 2014, 05:25:02 pm
Wes, Wes, Fucking West Side Story!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 04, 2014, 05:27:17 pm
How much do you want for the ladder?

Seriously - nice work!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 04, 2014, 05:28:02 pm
Good ladderpoint :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 04, 2014, 05:53:51 pm
Nice one shark!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 04, 2014, 05:53:53 pm
Brilliant! Well done Simon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 04, 2014, 06:26:54 pm
Two pull-ups using the deep mono pockets on the BM  :punk:

Considering I can only do three pull-ups with all my fingers at the moment...

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 04, 2014, 06:29:56 pm
Wes, Wes, Fucking West Side Story!!!

Hurrah!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on March 04, 2014, 06:42:39 pm
 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 04, 2014, 07:14:46 pm
Effort. Top out ?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 04, 2014, 07:42:07 pm
Brilliant!  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 04, 2014, 08:30:53 pm
Effort. Top out ?  ;)

Yes. The flake was green and wet. It felt 50/50 if I was going to slip off it or not. Thanks for the comments. I've been for a couple of fine pints of pale ale with the team (Norton and Sam) at the Rising Sun. Just had pancakes and now on the Jack Daniels feeling fuzzy and smug.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Percy B on March 04, 2014, 08:35:19 pm
Nice work. One of the best problems on Peak grit. There are still a lot of very strong climbers who haven't done this.

And a few very weak ones who can do laps on it...!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 04, 2014, 08:37:33 pm
Nice work. One of the best problems on Peak grit. There are still a lot of very strong climbers who haven't done this.

And a few very weak ones who can do laps on it...!!

Your beta for holding the third sidepull was very useful. Getting the edge before the porthole as Adam and Nige suggested worked well for me too. Such a good problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 04, 2014, 10:55:57 pm
Well done Shark! Great persistence and nice one topping out (with slimey flake!)

I've lost my spotter now ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on March 04, 2014, 11:06:43 pm
Nice work. One of the best problems on Peak grit. There are still a lot of very strong climbers who haven't done this.

And a few very weak ones who can do laps on it...!!

Your beta for holding the third sidepull was very useful. Getting the edge before the porthole as Adam and Nige suggested worked well for me too. Such a good problem.

Going for the sitter now?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomrainbow on March 04, 2014, 11:16:05 pm
Did Dancing Queen and Easdon Arete on Dartmoor tonight in the space of 30 minutes (or so), having tried them both on numerous occasions over the course of the last 15 years. Funny old game!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on March 05, 2014, 07:36:46 am
Good effort tom, especially doing them both within 30min, logistically speaking!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on March 05, 2014, 08:48:29 am
nice one shark :2thumbsup: the Oak next!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 05, 2014, 08:54:49 am
Let the nemesis slaying begin!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on March 05, 2014, 09:51:52 am
Effort. Top out ?  ;)

Yes. The flake was green and wet. It felt 50/50 if I was going to slip off it or not.

 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2014, 09:54:22 am
Well done Shark! Great persistence and nice one topping out (with slimey flake!)

I've lost my spotter now ;)

I think this is known as a see and a raise. Your move!

Nice one Sharkbait.

(http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/28901970.jpg)

innit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on March 05, 2014, 10:22:06 am
Nice one Shark.
More classic grit to follow ?
Have you got a taste for it now ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on March 05, 2014, 10:44:21 am
Wes, Wes, Fucking West Side Story!!!

Awesome Simon, nice work!! The Terrace next?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2014, 10:47:17 am
How are you going to work that with a ladder?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 05, 2014, 11:18:27 am
Nice one Shark.
More classic grit to follow ?
Have you got a taste for it now ?

It feels as good as a hard redpoint (I'm still grinning) so there must be something in it.

Be good to tick eatswood Reverse too. My other outstanding projects are on lime - Kudos, Perverse Reverse and Rattle and Hump. Sounds like Kudos is dry.   

Wes, Wes, Fucking West Side Story!!!

Awesome Simon, nice work!! The Terrace next?

Cheers. Not looked at it but seen videos. Maybe next winter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 05, 2014, 11:27:50 am
Kudos is dry, but it's pretty muddy underneath that problem so definitely take a tarp. No so bad under the press etc.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on March 05, 2014, 12:57:51 pm
Effort Simon! Heard a load shout of "Fuck!" from my hiding place over the valley in the Back Street Mime Artist cave (just left of All Quiet on the Eastern Front), so popped my head out in time to watch you doing the top big. Fine effort.
Those lime projects all sound a bit pedestrian after WSS. You should try Tarantula at Nuda's. Superb intricate moves and a line up a feature, the best 7C on peak lime IMO.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 05, 2014, 01:22:50 pm
Effort Simon! Heard a load shout of "Fuck!" from my hiding place over the valley in the Back Street Mime Artist cave (just left of All Quiet on the Eastern Front), so popped my head out in time to watch you doing the top big. Fine effort.
Those lime projects all sound a bit pedestrian after WSS. You should try Tarantula at Nuda's. Superb intricate moves and a line up a feature, the best 7C on peak lime IMO.

 :-[

Not been - Nudas stays dry doesn't it ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on March 05, 2014, 01:26:11 pm
Yeah stay's dry and doesn't seep really. Does get condensed sometimes, but the walk in couldn't be shorter and it's a lot nearer sheff than most lime...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 05, 2014, 05:39:19 pm
Finally, after a long wait scraping money here and there...
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2874/12951655375_fe98cc4d25.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/12951655375/)
Little beast (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/12951655375/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2014, 05:41:37 pm
Mind you don't rip the throttle off! Nice beast beast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: boulderingbacon on March 08, 2014, 07:36:04 am
Try riding that with two pads on your back. :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 08, 2014, 08:23:40 am
Nice bike NIbs - can't beat a two stroke  :smart:

Had an original 350LC in the 90s, even had a coffin tanked and race tuned RD200 back in the 80s... Yamaha made some sweet engines. Enjoy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 08, 2014, 09:17:14 am
Cheers guys!
I really can't wait to ride it properly, but have to wait for my new helmet to be delivered, and then it'll have to pass the usual controls. Under the seat there is, as most of you will know, a big compartment in which I'll carry all the climbing equipment I need: chalk and BM hang times!
I've been looking for a bike since December, was after a nice Yamaha 400 '79 cafè racer, but was too expensive. Then I thought about the bikes I loved and never had when I was 16, and there you go!
Can't wait to show off in front of the Court of Justice building.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on March 08, 2014, 09:32:12 am
Can't wait to show off in front of the Court of Justice building.

Finally we discover the identity of the super hero Beastmaker Man, after nibs slips up on a forum post.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 08, 2014, 10:34:11 am
 ;D
Shhhhhhh! Don't say it. I may actually go climbing on rock tomorrow. How will it affect Monday's deadhangs session?
 :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on March 10, 2014, 10:52:34 pm
On a related note to Nibs... I just got my motorbike license... Hopefully a bike will be on its way in the next couple of weeks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: stvey1987 on March 11, 2014, 11:59:37 am
Is this how it works with a bike licence? As soon as you pass 'they' send you your first bike in the post!?!?  :P

If only I'd known before learning to drive a car and forking out for one myself!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on March 15, 2014, 07:54:15 pm
After a ridiculous siege, Fourmis Rouge went down today!

Lessons learn include, don't try sloper problems in the midday heat and being tall isn't always so great (getting the high foot was the crux for me).

Now for the other three!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 15, 2014, 11:30:59 pm
Good effort, really good problem to do :)

Big boss is good but a bit spoilt by the encroaching rock. Found tristesse desperate compared to the former 2!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ducko on March 16, 2014, 12:24:43 am
Smacked a goose in the abdomen
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on March 16, 2014, 08:46:36 am
Thanks Rich.

I agree regarding Big Boss but I've been given some beta that allows me to not touch the block but it involves a heel-toe near the arete, hope it's in!

Ironic thing is that Tristese is the one that people seem to turn up and do really easily but I can see how it'd be difficult if you're tall. I've only had a quick play at the end of a session.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 16, 2014, 04:05:59 pm
Weird i've never seen anyone do tristesse easily. Then again i've never seen anyone do big boss without the back ledge
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 17, 2014, 08:48:36 pm
I have. You should hang out with bespectacled midgets a bit more Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 26, 2014, 04:01:08 pm
Mixed moments as of late, fingers wise:
1. NNFN injured right middle hitting a hold;
2. YYFY seemed to heal fast and fine;
3. YYFY nearly one armed left middle mono on BM;
4. NNFN re-injured right middle one arming mono on BM;
5. YYFY seems to heal fast and fine;
6. YYFY hit PB on BM incut rung yesterday, 16 kg LH, 20 kg RH.
I am nuts!
 :chair:
 :devangel:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 26, 2014, 05:57:45 pm
Careful on that mono nibs, I tweaked my left index a while ago and it still felt ok to pull on just a bit tired at the bottom of forearm. So for once I let an injury heal ie I mean I trained all other monos, that I train, just not that one. It was fine about 4 mths later, and came up to the level of my rh in a few wks
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 26, 2014, 09:58:29 pm
Yes, I know. The second one was really a close call. I felt strong so I gave it a go... Could have been a bad one.
Strangely it's a bit dodgy openhanded and fine half crimped. It's also true that I did not try to half crimp the BM mono...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 27, 2014, 07:06:42 am
YYFY found a new (for me), really nice granite boulder area about 20 minutes down the valley.
NNFN spent a while working "White 15" (there are circuits marked on the boulders) to come back and find it was......Font 5+  :weakbench:

Beautiful venue though - some amazingly well featured stones for granite.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 31, 2014, 01:00:27 pm
Medonnet? Or Plaine Joux?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on April 03, 2014, 01:25:34 am
On a related note to Nibs... I just got my motorbike license... Hopefully a bike will be on its way in the next couple of weeks.

Just bought one! Pick it up on Saturday...  :2thumbsup:

2009 250 Ninja

(http://i.imgur.com/xNSniBF.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 03, 2014, 08:38:57 am
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 03, 2014, 05:38:24 pm
Nice one Jack. I remember seeing one of those years ago with the best personalised number plate ever, N1NJA (although the tarted up Astra GTE/somesuch chav hot hatch with R8GUD runs it a close second).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on April 03, 2014, 06:57:52 pm
Thats the chaviest comment an account has ever made anywhere ever  :tease:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 03, 2014, 07:27:57 pm
Hmm. I probably should point out then that I can't stand wankerplates and would never have one, but the former is the only one I've ever seen that was actually very cool and the second, well, I still think it's hilarious.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on April 03, 2014, 07:37:22 pm
There is a jag in huddersfield with a license plate of something like d134 hed

Seriously why would you get that
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on April 04, 2014, 12:10:28 am
There's a guy around here that drives a black Commodore Ute with the plate BAD247.... Apparently he's had it for about 15 years changing it from car to car.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 04, 2014, 07:14:04 am
I've seen BEAUT UTE in Darwin :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 05, 2014, 05:48:41 pm
Live from an ocean of madness, trembling fingers, bulging forearms, exploding ego.
Just climbed this.
Project on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/90202045)
Just plastic I know, but beautiful plastic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on April 05, 2014, 07:49:45 pm
Can you put a number to this Nibs? You can't tell if you've just crushed an evil 8th grade or puntered a 6! Either way, nice one; you look like you've put everything into it. Just curious...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 06, 2014, 10:28:53 am
You put me in a very difficult position Andy. I'm never sure about what I climb on my board. I judge things by the effort and the time they require... Then I think that some of my stronger friends would crush them in flip flops.
The first part of the problem, to the wooden pinch LH was a boulder in its own. I worked it for a season. Then I also repeated it, then I could not do it anymore for one year and half. I did it one month ago and put the second part on. This one is very doable but you get there pretty tired and the swing of the dyno is hard. Hold is good though.
I appreciate your direct question and your sincerity, and I'll try to be as sincere. I think it's hard 8a or 8a+.
I have other footage, I'll put it on so you can have a better idea and I as well.
P.s. I always have a spare room at home, so anyone can come for a session or two or three!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on April 06, 2014, 11:08:25 am
Nice one. Thanks for the reply. I find it hard to grade stuff on my board. I know some of the things I do are at my complete limit, but to only watch, without feeling the holds or pulling on, can be a little misleading.
I hope the efforts inside are paying dividends outside!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 06, 2014, 12:32:44 pm
I hope the efforts inside are paying dividends outside!
I basically don't climb outside anymore.
When work will be settled maybe, but probably not before long.
It's not a problem though, my board is great and I love training.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on April 07, 2014, 01:32:49 pm
YYFY! I've just gotten a full time job from Sept. Moving back to Sheffield.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 07, 2014, 04:47:35 pm
Congratulations Sam.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 07, 2014, 04:52:11 pm
Good news!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 10, 2014, 03:08:23 pm
Just got back from the Court of Justice, where I pledged as legal solicitor. Not fully a lawyer yet, but getting closer.
I debut tomorrow at the Juvenile Court in Florence.
This is getting cool.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 10, 2014, 03:34:15 pm
Nice! Will you be defending?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 10, 2014, 03:45:01 pm
Yes! Hopefully it will be a penalty kick without even the goalkeeper: the prosecutor himself will plead him innocent.
Edit: to be more precise, the prosecutor won't plead his innocence, he'll ask for not going on with the accusation because of the "particular tenuity of the fact".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 10, 2014, 05:16:27 pm
YYFY! I've just gotten a full time job from Sept. Moving back to Sheffield.

Nice one, I presume you're in one of the nice prep schools out in S10 :-[
Although with the 90 hour weeks teachers work it will be difficult to get out on the grit. :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 11, 2014, 08:56:42 am
No limits to your dickishness is there Sloper.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 11, 2014, 12:28:51 pm
about 6"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on April 13, 2014, 11:37:52 am
YYFY! Managed to skip from from 7a to 7b+ in Font this week by getting up Modulor at Franchard Sablons. Will be years before I tick anything that hard again, but it's always nice to fluke something that suits you :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on April 13, 2014, 11:48:49 am
Yeah Ben!!! Good stuff!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy W on April 13, 2014, 06:26:37 pm
 :icon_beerchug:  Never posted in this thread before, but it seems like a good opportunity. On Friday I managed to get up my first F8a, albeit at Cheddar and in terms of quality and reputation best summed up in the words of my friend Dan...'well, see it as an entry level route'. The sweetness of this tick is that I gave myself a deadline about 4 weeks ago, the deadline being my 50th birthday, the other noteworthy factor is that the next hardest sport route I have done this century is 7a. Oh and I live in Cornwall, the county in which we are not allowed sport climbs ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 13, 2014, 07:35:51 pm
As one who turned 50 earlier this year let me be the first to say ... bloody fantastic effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on April 13, 2014, 08:03:27 pm
Nice work Andy! From 7a to 8a in four weeks... not bad for an old fart  ;)

50 myself next year - doubt that's work for me tho.

Massive YYFY!

 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 13, 2014, 09:46:49 pm
 :dance1:
 :icon_beerchug: :bow:
Brilliant!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 14, 2014, 09:35:13 am
Good work. Means I've still got 5 years to get my 8a tick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on April 14, 2014, 10:10:54 am
Nice one Andy, strong effort! :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 14, 2014, 10:24:43 am
in terms of quality and reputation best summed up in the words of my friend Dan...'well, see it as an entry level route'.

A sound plan if you're trying to push your grade.

My specialist subject at the moment is "bouldery 3-bolt mini-routes at UIAA VIII- in northern Bavaria". Have ticked three so far and have several more on the go as projects. Will soon have to either look for harder three bolt mini-routes or attempt a proper route at VIII-. But one has to get started somehow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on April 14, 2014, 12:21:40 pm
 :beer2:  good work Andy, proper good milestone before a significant birthday.  An entry route towards getting soaked in cider perhaps?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on April 15, 2014, 10:16:05 pm
:icon_beerchug:  Never posted in this thread before, but it seems like a good opportunity. On Friday I managed to get up my first F8a, albeit at Cheddar and in terms of quality and reputation best summed up in the words of my friend Dan...'well, see it as an entry level route'. The sweetness of this tick is that I gave myself a deadline about 4 weeks ago, the deadline being my 50th birthday, the other noteworthy factor is that the next hardest sport route I have done this century is 7a. Oh and I live in Cornwall, the county in which we are not allowed sport climbs ;)

Nice work!! Which one was it, if you don't mind me asking?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: granticus on April 16, 2014, 12:06:18 pm
:icon_beerchug:  Never posted in this thread before, but it seems like a good opportunity. On Friday I managed to get up my first F8a, albeit at Cheddar and in terms of quality and reputation best summed up in the words of my friend Dan...'well, see it as an entry level route'. The sweetness of this tick is that I gave myself a deadline about 4 weeks ago, the deadline being my 50th birthday, the other noteworthy factor is that the next hardest sport route I have done this century is 7a. Oh and I live in Cornwall, the county in which we are not allowed sport climbs ;)
Thanks for posting.  Flippin' great effort Andy :icon_beerchug: Not like Cheddar is on your doorstep either!  Very inspiring.  Just passed my 40th birthday so really encouraging to hear this news, age will not be a barrier. :whip:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danski on April 22, 2014, 09:09:22 pm
Nothing majorly noteworthy but just after my 44th birthday I did my first 7B+ in Font that was a straight up.  It felt proper 7B+ also (took two days) and mentally sucked the life out of me.  Big moment for me as it's usually dyno's that get me the grade in Font .  (I'm only 5' 8'' but good at jumping)  Also sent 5 7B's.  Best trip ever by far and am already planning a new tick list for next year to fail on!  I WISH I WAS STILL THERE!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on April 23, 2014, 09:51:20 am
Finally got Dosage for my first font 7c!!!  I'd been dreaming about it all year so it's incredible to have done it.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on April 23, 2014, 09:54:55 am
Nothing majorly noteworthy but just after my 44th birthday I did my first 7B+ in Font that was a straight up.  ... Also sent 5 7B's.
nice danski!  - what were they?  (the 7b+ and the 7b's ?)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danski on April 24, 2014, 05:25:14 pm
Tropicaux - Apremont (standard 7b+)
Il - Rocher Canon (hard 7b)
Bastogne - Rocher Canon (soft)
Close Contact droite - Dri Zennen (standard)
Si t'es Petit Sois Technique - Saint-Germain (brilliant dyno)
Knees with traverse - Apremont (gift at 7b)

Some soft and some hard at the grade but all were good problems and in the book of justice (7+8) apart from the traverse.

Brilliant weather also.  April is very reliable for anyone planning a trip.  Haven't had any real rain in three years.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danski on April 24, 2014, 08:33:34 pm
Well done Yoof for sending 7C.  I'm still dreaming.  Always next time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 24, 2014, 08:43:08 pm
Great feeling, I'll be hoping to climb 6+ on my next trip, but it will be in July / August so not exactly prime conditions.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on May 04, 2014, 02:48:02 pm
Just managed my first half marathon in 1hr 47mins 59s!

Safe to say I am FOOKED!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 04, 2014, 08:28:26 pm
Effort. Have a wad.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on May 06, 2014, 10:07:57 am
Got my first 6b+  on Saturday :D

First Roof Left (I think) at Gardom's.
Fun times.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 06, 2014, 10:20:47 am
Nice one! It's always a good feeling to break into a new grade!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: daprince on May 06, 2014, 01:49:12 pm
Got Whisky Galore on Saturday first proper 7A and a quality problem to boot.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on May 10, 2014, 10:35:18 pm
managed my first muscle up today!  :)

still no one armer though...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 16, 2014, 05:59:53 pm
Happy about this.
Front lever pulls, 2kg. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/95528988)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on May 16, 2014, 07:51:45 pm
impressive ! :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on May 16, 2014, 08:33:38 pm
 Never mind impressive. Please tell me you are not wearing a split skirt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 17, 2014, 02:33:19 pm
I am not wearing a split skirt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on May 17, 2014, 08:16:30 pm
Thank god,at first I thought you had a kilt on.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on May 22, 2014, 10:55:15 pm
5 months on from spazzing my wrist on me board finally tracked down the chief boxing physio from EIS in sheffield.. private ( well priced ) appt.. 45 mins later I'm told that no, i defo don't need surgery, that yes.. it can be sorted, that yes..its not a hard path.. for certain in time for MTB DH trip to Canadain 6 weeks, and NO you don't have terminal arthritis stopping you doing what u want to do in the foreseeable  future.." boulder and ride bikes.." i admit, I shed a tear of utter sheer relief.

YYFY ( holds back tears of joy) 2014 is back ON  ;D :punk: 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on May 22, 2014, 11:26:08 pm
Weird FD. I thought about you while I was in the shed tonight and wondered if youd come round to train.
Whats all that about ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on May 24, 2014, 01:27:26 am
I just saw Prince. I know this thread is generally about climbing achievements but I've wanted to see Prince live since I was 14 and fate conspired against me until now.

He was amazing. Just amazing! I'm very happy. YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on May 27, 2014, 09:00:38 pm
I just saw Prince. I know this thread is generally about climbing achievements but I've wanted to see Prince live since I was 14 and fate conspired against me until now.

He was amazing. Just amazing! I'm very happy. YYFY!
  :dance1: :punk:  :dance1:  :punk: :dance1: :punk: :dance1: :punk: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 31, 2014, 11:23:25 am
Had my hand crushed in the mighty handshake of Lore! Ciao.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 31, 2014, 06:13:41 pm
 ;D ;D
Nice to meet you prof!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: EdGowSmith on June 03, 2014, 09:58:59 pm
YYFY!
Did my first 7C+ today, When the Days are Dead at Anstey's Cove!  :dance1:
Just over 4 months since I took a month off due to elbow injury, at which point I was struggling on 7As!
So so psyched.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 03, 2014, 11:10:17 pm
Well done Ed! Saw Mark's FB post earlier. Is there a vid?

I think we might have heard you shout in the Bunker...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: EdGowSmith on June 03, 2014, 11:35:43 pm
Well done Ed! Saw Mark's FB post earlier. Is there a vid?

I think we might have heard you shout in the Bunker...

Thanks. :)
Unfortunately not, camera is broken at the moment, might go back and get some footage some time though...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on June 06, 2014, 05:56:04 am
First v10 yesterday!! Woohoo
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 06, 2014, 03:09:18 pm
Nice!

7C+ Jasper
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on June 06, 2014, 04:18:49 pm
Ha just sounds like a nicer round number hahaha
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 06, 2014, 04:23:02 pm
No it doesn't.

Good effort.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on June 06, 2014, 05:50:21 pm
A family YYFY. The good wife is now a consultant=we get to stay in The Leeds area indefinitely.  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 07, 2014, 02:15:17 pm
Grinning like a motherfuking motherfucker. Particularly happy about speed. Now I put on my best suit and go to a wedding where I will try to push every conversation in the direction of one armers. Failing that, I'll get happily drunk.
And here, we, go.
http://youtu.be/rHmUdCaq_Q0 (http://youtu.be/rHmUdCaq_Q0)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 07, 2014, 02:54:45 pm
Six of the best Lore!
And great news Andy..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on June 07, 2014, 04:06:12 pm
have a few more of these :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 07, 2014, 04:48:33 pm
MONSTER!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on June 07, 2014, 06:31:49 pm
bEEeEEeeeeAAAaAaAsSsSsSSSSTTTtTtTTT !!!!!!!! :jaw:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on June 07, 2014, 07:00:25 pm
You made that look so easy Nibs... I got all inspired and did some pressups!

Strong you are.

 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on June 07, 2014, 10:15:36 pm
Fuck yeah! Almost got out of bed to do some one armers, but I fear the second Old Fashioned will have zapped my oomph. It's not just weddings where it's hard to find people interested in discussing one armers. I've failed to engage people in this discussion on many social occasions.

Also, does anyone else have the many-easy-one-armers dream?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 07, 2014, 10:20:51 pm
YES. several times. I remember thinking in the dream, these are so easy, whats the big deal and then waking up feeling very heavy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 07, 2014, 10:28:05 pm
Totally. I often have the dream of effortlessly locking my way up something foot off. Chalk and blow....

Used to be able to do it on the wave, sadly now reduced to really enjoyable dreams where I'm much stronger than I ever actually was.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 07, 2014, 11:12:10 pm
YES. several times. I remember thinking in the dream, these are so easy, whats the big deal and then waking up feeling very heavy
:agree: mine tend to feel floaty too. Fucking stupid dreams.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on June 08, 2014, 04:21:40 pm
Yeah I get those dreams often nowdays, it tends to involve a number of one armers on a half pad edge untill I get bored and drop off still totally fresh thinking "wow all this training is paying off nicely!"

Waking up is somewhat disappointing
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on June 08, 2014, 04:51:24 pm
Once had a session lapping Brad pit with ease including doing it without the jug, without the heel dynoing/floating to the jug, campussing with then without the jug and finally campussing rail - top - rail - top over and over.  It was a difficult morning spent getting over the truth that that wasn't real or ever would be.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2014, 06:17:30 pm
My dreams usually involve fear of being crushed by a snoring walrus ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on June 08, 2014, 07:41:59 pm
How long have you been sleeping with Lagers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 09, 2014, 07:10:45 am
How long have you been sleeping with Lagers.

He inspires dreams of lighthouses....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 09, 2014, 01:50:07 pm
we don't do much sleeping
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 09, 2014, 01:55:41 pm
we don't do much sleeping

Yeah - you just want to lie there and talk all night...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on June 09, 2014, 08:12:02 pm
we don't do much sleeping
Thats even more disturbing than a Sloper thread.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on June 09, 2014, 09:36:25 pm
only just seen Lore's vid above, I instantly had to go and do 10 pull ups (2 armers) Am totally fucking wasted now. Psyched
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 09, 2014, 11:17:32 pm
only just seen Lore's vid above, I instantly had to go and do 10 pull ups (2 armers) Am totally fucking wasted now. Psyched
;D ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 10, 2014, 12:23:48 pm
Yeah I get those dreams often nowdays, it tends to involve a number of one armers on a half pad edge untill I get bored and drop off still totally fresh thinking "wow all this training is paying off nicely!"

Waking up is somewhat disappointing

I dream sometimes I'm superlight too. Fucking dreams.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AlistairB on June 15, 2014, 09:02:09 pm
A few days late but on Tuesday my other half got the all clear to start putting impact on her leg again, 9 months after breaking it really badly in a freak indoor bouldering accident ( full story (http://www.climbingandme.com)). 2 months ago they warned that it wasn't healing and might need more surgery, on Tuesday I literally wanted to yell YYFY in the consulting room when they said it was all good. I was way more nervous before than any redpoint or exam.

Celebrated with a Tor bouldering session, psyched out of my tiny mind to be bouldering together again  :bounce:.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on June 16, 2014, 05:55:26 am
Excellent news mate.... Probably see you both out and about then!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 16, 2014, 08:14:45 am
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 16, 2014, 12:48:34 pm
A few days late but on Tuesday my other half got the all clear to start putting impact on her leg again, 9 months after breaking it really badly in a freak indoor bouldering accident ( full story (http://www.climbingandme.com)).
:2thumbsup:
sorry to be a bit macabre, but have you/she written up the accident itself?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on June 16, 2014, 04:07:55 pm

sorry to be a bit macabre, but have you/she written up the accident itself?

There's some detail in the first post Paul.  http://www.climbingandme.com/2013/09/today-i-broke-my-leg.html (http://www.climbingandme.com/2013/09/today-i-broke-my-leg.html)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on June 17, 2014, 12:43:37 pm
A few days late but on Tuesday my other half got the all clear to start putting impact on her leg again, 9 months after breaking it really badly in a freak indoor bouldering accident ( full story (http://www.climbingandme.com)). 2 months ago they warned that it wasn't healing and might need more surgery, on Tuesday I literally wanted to yell YYFY in the consulting room when they said it was all good. I was way more nervous before than any redpoint or exam.

Celebrated with a Tor bouldering session, psyched out of my tiny mind to be bouldering together again  :bounce:.
:agree: My girlfriend has been back to the wall with me a few times over the last month or so after a really bad ankle injury inflicted bouldering at Carn Brae, so I know how good this feels!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 17, 2014, 01:01:42 pm

sorry to be a bit macabre, but have you/she written up the accident itself?

There's some detail in the first post Paul.  http://www.climbingandme.com/2013/09/today-i-broke-my-leg.html (http://www.climbingandme.com/2013/09/today-i-broke-my-leg.html)

Ta. Interesting (in a sickeningly familiar way).

I'm particularly interested in the boots mentioned after reading that. Another article I read recently suggested that tight boots (down-toed especially) stopped the foot being able to absorb any of the impact from a fall and could lead to more breaks.
My boots were pretty much brand new Dragons that were so tight even after they cut twice down the shoe they still couldn't get it off.

It also suggested you could climb anything in soft boots which I would contest.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on June 19, 2014, 11:41:39 pm
You snapped because your leg was like a twig.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris j on June 21, 2014, 07:41:15 pm
Did the Lynch today at Ansteys. 1st 7b+ (no quibbles of it being soft for the grade!), long time nemesis crushed. End of an era for me, can't remember how long I've been saying "Got to get stronger for the Lynch..." (actually just checked my logbook and I first got on it, got crushed and began gaining humility back in 2009)

 :weakbench: ;D  :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on June 21, 2014, 08:37:47 pm
Did the Lynch today at Ansteys. 1st 7b+

Nice work chap! Is that the one you were on when I was there a couple of weeks back?

 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: PipeSmoke on June 21, 2014, 09:44:35 pm
Climbed my first E5 yesterday, first go and ground up after watching someone else send it. It's a pretty sketchy solo so chuffed to man up and send it with out any top rope practice before hand!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on June 21, 2014, 09:51:20 pm
Fuck yeah! Almost got out of bed to do some one armers, but I fear the second Old Fashioned will have zapped my oomph. It's not just weddings where it's hard to find people interested in discussing one armers. I've failed to engage people in this discussion on many social occasions.

Also, does anyone else have the many-easy-one-armers dream?

Further and better particulars required, we may be at cross purposes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: chris j on June 22, 2014, 08:10:42 am


Nice work chap! Is that the one you were on when I was there a couple of weeks back?

 :punk:

Cheers! Think that was Threadbare LH at Torbryan. The Lynch is a bit steeper and demands a blood sacrifice for every attempt...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 22, 2014, 10:49:25 am
You snapped because your leg was like a twiglet.

Fixed, and why stop at the leg.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on June 22, 2014, 05:41:42 pm
A weight off your shoulders, have a beer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 22, 2014, 05:54:33 pm
My relationship with the place never recovered from the NNFN flood in winter 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11029.msg347620.html#msg347620).

Congrats. I'm not sure why re: the above, I thought it was a great house.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on June 23, 2014, 07:57:59 pm
Nose-in-a-Day! 21st June, 30 years to the day since the last time. A lot slower - 23 hours - but just as fun. 

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on June 23, 2014, 08:07:01 pm
 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 23, 2014, 09:18:16 pm
Get in  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 23, 2014, 10:55:26 pm
Unless you're talking about the Burbage West mini-classic, that is well  :off: ....and congrats  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on June 24, 2014, 12:19:55 am
Fantastic  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 24, 2014, 07:13:00 am
Nose-in-a-Day! 21st June, 30 years to the day since the last time. A lot slower - 23 hours - but just as fun.
FFS Mr Modesty ...

Yes, this seems pretty immense.

And in my idiocy I hadn't realised which Duncan Duncan is!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on June 24, 2014, 08:50:19 am
super impressive :beer2:  all round
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on June 24, 2014, 08:58:08 am
Nose-in-a-Day! 21st June, 30 years to the day since the last time. A lot slower - 23 hours - but just as fun.

:2thumbsup:
Amazing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2014, 09:28:47 am
Unbelievable. Good work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on June 24, 2014, 09:30:57 am
Awesome!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on June 26, 2014, 03:20:29 am
Thanks for your kind comments.

Doing the NIAD again had been a vague idea from at least 4 years ago and a 30th anniversary ascent with The Rope Gun had a lot of discussion on our wet trip to Switzerland two years ago. Most of my training in the last 9 months - all those step-ups and the 30 pitch sessions on the auto belay - has been with this in mind. It's deeply satisfying when any long term project with a lot of investment like this one works out.

The actual ascent went fairly smoothly, I was always convinced we would get up the route, the question was how long it would take. Our times on a couple of warm ups predicted a 30 hour sufferfest which was a bit dispiriting (thanks to IO2 for a well-delivered MTFU). Short-fixing everything made a big difference. We started at 3am, climbed steadily, did pretty well up to Camp 6, on schedule for an 18-20 hour ascent which was my target. The climbing steepens up there, it got dark, we got tired, two of our three 1" cams got stuck. We stopped short-fixing as it is quite isolating and we slowed considerably, topping out at about 2am.

We both felt OK on the summit and wanted to descend but once the caffeine and adrenaline wore off the decision-making got a bit iffy and I started getting visual hallucinations so we just lay down in the dirt in the Manzanita and fell asleep immediately. We woke with the dawn feeling much better and I'm sure we did the right thing. 

A NIAD is not quite routine amongst US climbers but is quite common now. Improvements in gear - especially head torches, wider knowledge of short-fixing, and breaking psychological barriers have made it a viable choice for decent but not exceptional climbers. It deserves to be more popular with Brits. I'll write down a few ideas if anyone is interested.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on July 02, 2014, 04:52:40 pm
Just got a job in Sheffield! (relocating from Bristol)

Can't wait to live near some actual bouldering!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 02, 2014, 04:56:09 pm
 :2thumbsup:  congratulations cha1n
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on July 08, 2014, 12:54:56 pm
The kids I coach smashed it up at the Youth Climbing Series British finals!
All top 10, two 2nds and 2 thirds.
Plus took one of the older ones on the rock the following day to Carrock Fell and he tore it up again - ticking two V5s, a V7, flashing a V8 and getting another within 20 minutes! 5th time on rock ever! YYFY
http://robinolearycoaching.com/?p=398 (http://robinolearycoaching.com/?p=398)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on July 10, 2014, 10:41:17 pm
I'm really very excited.

I just got a job at the Depot in Nottingham.
I'll be working there part time to cover my studies.

This means that for the first time in my life I am going to be:

After what has been a pretty shitty year and a half, things are finally starting to look up.
 :)
If that wasn't enough - I'm also (almost) injury free, which means I can get back to training in time for winter. YYFY!

Unfortunately, an annoying side effect of moving 168 miles further north, is that I wont know anyone in town.
So if any of you fancies saying "Hi", then it would be great to meet you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 10, 2014, 10:52:18 pm
excellent news all round! :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on July 10, 2014, 11:31:30 pm
good on you mate. North of the M4 for a climbe is a :goodidea:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on July 11, 2014, 08:17:03 am
congrats baldy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on July 11, 2014, 11:12:34 am
So if any of you fancies saying "Hi", then it would be great to meet you.

 :wave:

No plans to climb indoors for a while but hit me up on here man.  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 12, 2014, 05:39:41 pm
Back on rock after three months, and on a rope! What do we do for some rock...
Very happy, did a route with some heel hooks and the broken knee didn't suffer much, probably because of the three rounds of tape that basically hindered any flexion to more than 90°...
Climbed a direct (sit  :-[ :-[ :-[) start to that route then, 6 new cool moves, above the head heel hooks and pocket pulling!
Got back home, put my sauna jacket and the weightvest on and did some HIIT!!!

There must have been something in the air!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on July 13, 2014, 10:21:24 am
7A plateau of 1 year, 8 months and 28 days finally came to an end today...


Did my first V7... Well pleased.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on July 13, 2014, 09:28:18 pm
After a multi-session two year plus siege,finally put my Almscliff nemesis,Underhand Extension,to bed this afternoon. psyched doesn't even cover it. This after another 7C at Pantymwyn yesterday,too. The hours on the 50 degree board,rings,deadhangs are finally paying off. Sunday night drinks definitely deserved...a big fat YYFY for sure!!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gallant on July 14, 2014, 09:41:45 pm
Having basically never projected anything properly, and having ticked one (soft, probably) 7b in the county (and jericho road which is also only 7a+, no?), yesterday I managed Hannibal at Tom's. It's not a massive tick or anything, I know, but my first 7c nonetheless. It was a pretty YYFY moment, especially having power out of the finishing campus about 10 minutes earlier, with a sense of dread that maybe I wasn't actually fit enough to pull it off. (Cheekily whanged a heel on, which I still feel guilty about)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 14, 2014, 09:58:02 pm
Wangling a heel on is the way fwd for that move. Campus it after you've done it!

Which you have obviously, I meant campus it now you've got the tick in the bag ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 19, 2014, 07:10:44 pm
We held a charity climb today at the bunker, aiming to traverse the equivalent distance as Berry Head to Long Quarry point (Anstey's cove) or 12 miles or 522 complete traverses of our main bouldering room.

As a team, not individually.

Most people stopped somewhere between 10 and 30 circuits.

Two of our youth squad, Kiera and Stacy (my eldest daughter) did more than 60 circuits each!

Stacy has just completed 94 laps, almost 3 miles!

Almost 4 times further than the best adult male!


Stacy is 8 years old.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 19, 2014, 07:24:06 pm
Push on. Surely she can get her century. ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 29, 2014, 07:45:24 am
Passed my motorbike driving license exam yesterday, not without some drama.
I was using a driving school bike, a Suzuki SV 650, because my beast is still at the mechanic's with carburetor problems...
When I got at the DVLA with my instructor, it turns out that I had with me only the copy of the temporary driving license, the original being in a small bag that USED to be carried in my bike but was nowhere to be found for a few days now, despite two phone calls to the mechanic to make him search more and more...
So I am temporarily allowed to go to the place for the driving exam with the others, while the instructor drives back to his school to print a new one.
I go there, chat a little bit pretending that I know something about motorbikes (usual ego boosting, willy-waving, pant-filling stories, including one guy dressed in a full track suit...); then the instructor gets back and tells me that you can't print new licenses on exam day.
I'll have to wait for September.
No way.
With everyone already there, I tried one last chance, took the school bike and drove to the mechanic's, on the other side of town. Small town, but still on the other side.
Got there, they had JUST found all my stuff.
Took everything, drove back to the examination area faking calm despite my heart pounding.
There still was a couple of guys before my turn... One told me: "Hey you managed it! Cool!" To which I replied: "Yes, no problem really. The guys offered me coffee, so I just twisted the throttle a bit more on the way back..."
Phew.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on July 29, 2014, 11:53:08 am
ego boosting, willy-waving

Any fool can get a knee down on a sports bike; it takes proper recklessness to get a panier down on a tourer  ;)

I never owned a serious sports bike. I looked after a mate's 900 Ninja for a couple of weeks while he was on holiday, and quickly realised that if I ever bought myself such a thing, the life expectancy of my driving license would be measured in weeks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 29, 2014, 11:38:16 pm
I have absolutely no intention of putting my knee down or "doing the Ton" either...
I drive very very slowly and I want to keep it like this.
An old 125 is more than enough for me!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on July 30, 2014, 09:46:50 am
I have absolutely no intention of putting my knee down or "doing the Ton" either...
I drive very very slowly and I want to keep it like this.
An old 125 is more than enough for me!

Nice work on getting your licence!
This Sat I've got the next stage of my licence, lots of slow speed riding... Will still be restricted on size of bikes for another year but after that I can ride what I want. My 250 already isn't powerful enough..... Can't wait to get a decent 600 super sports...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on August 04, 2014, 07:31:59 pm
Finally I have a climbing related YYFY! Booked for my first trip to Font in November with the right honourable TC.

Yippee!!!!!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 05, 2014, 10:13:47 am
Nice. At least you won't need a guidebook, provided the memory isn't failing ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on August 05, 2014, 10:43:02 am
Got the keys to my first house last night   :dance1:

Cashed in on the psyche and started stripping wallpaper in the master bedroom, only to find some atrocious plastering in one corner -  :wall:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 05, 2014, 11:05:49 am
Congrats and good luck Ally.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on August 07, 2014, 12:27:29 am
Onsighted my first 7a sport route this evening, the best part of it was that I had read the guidebook wrong and thought I was on a 6c!

Really psyched, been a big goal for awhile!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 07, 2014, 09:12:18 am
Onsighted my first 7a sport route this evening, the best part of it was that I had read the guidebook wrong and thought I was on a 6c!

Really psyched, been a big goal for awhile!

nice one Luke, the art of the self-sandbag is a fine one but you're on the right track.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on August 07, 2014, 09:39:31 am
Onsighted my first 7a sport route this evening, the best part of it was that I had read the guidebook wrong and thought I was on a 6c!

That delusion was probably the key.  Often, the only thing that's got me up an on-sight that's turned nasty is the shame of failing on something "easy", and the prospect of having to waste more of the day RPing it!  Doing routes with unpleasant moves can help too - powering yourself to the chains with the motivational thought "I really don't want to have to do that sequence again..."
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on August 07, 2014, 10:29:11 am
Cheers guys, thinking I was on an easier route helped for sure, stayed relaxed. I wish I could sandbag myself more often!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 07, 2014, 10:59:35 am
Get someone else to do the sandbagging for you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on August 07, 2014, 11:24:48 am
I'll get you on some 7as and tell you they're 6c if you want.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 07, 2014, 11:37:06 am
I managed that on my first ever route in Europe. Arrived fresh off plane at El Chorro read the old Rockfax "pamphlet guide" wrong, and thought I was on a 6a to warm up, and got on a 6c, was with climbing with some people I'd never met before and didn't want to make a tit of myself failing on something easy, so scraped my way to the top thinking " f-me European grades are stiff!".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on August 08, 2014, 01:50:32 pm
Just seen final proof of the local chapter of Simon Carter's new photo book... Got basically a full page photo of me on my DWS project. Fucking awesome photo that I haven't seen since he took it. Big and unnecessary cut loose with a skier/ski boat in the background. Definitely going to get a big print of it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 09, 2014, 09:51:53 am
Went to the ostheo yesterday to fix my back, elbow, etc. He's a good friend of mine and knows me well. When I undressed he told me: "Jesus Lore, you turned into a body builder! How much weight did you gain?"
Terrified by the idea, I jumped on the scale: I had lost one kilo.
That now I can replace with muscle to get back to 65.
Now where's my protein shake?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hstmoore on August 11, 2014, 11:24:01 am
I don't usually post here but...

On Saturday me and my friend did our first E7. We solo'd Magic in the Air at Highcliffe Nab which is a class arete. We had previously done it with side runners at E5. We worked it a bit on top rope before going for the solo - it was great to do such an awesome line with no rope. Get in.

Here's a vid: Theo on Magic in the Air, E6/7 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/103090268)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on August 18, 2014, 11:11:44 am
Gite booked for Font, Easter 2015! Get in.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on August 18, 2014, 11:19:06 am
Gite booked for Font, Easter 2015! Get in.
:(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on August 18, 2014, 11:52:50 am
Could you not squeeze in a long weekend solo mission?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on August 18, 2014, 03:26:03 pm
Gite booked for Font, Easter 2015! Get in.

We have just booked a gite for October half term! :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on August 21, 2014, 08:07:34 pm
I now only work a French style 30 hour week - which means only bothering to turn up at work four days a week

This means that every Tuesday, between school runs, it's just me and the little lad (aged 3) to do whatever we want (mostly Grit, some plastic)

Y Y F Y 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 22, 2014, 07:29:21 am
 :punk: :2thumbsup: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2014, 08:59:48 am
I'm just about to have similar discussion with boss, now oldest has started school, try and get an extra afternoon off at least.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2014, 09:05:32 am
Cool. Presently negotiating a move to 50% time.... Life's too short..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on August 22, 2014, 09:07:42 am
I'm just about to have similar discussion with boss, now oldest has started school, try and get an extra afternoon off at least.

Do you have a friday lunch finish already Chris? We do and it's ace.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on August 22, 2014, 09:09:38 am
Cool. Presently negotiating a move to 50% time.... Life's too short..

Is that making your current 50% official or 50% of the 50% you work? ;)

Guess there's only so much coffee a man can drink in a day...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on August 22, 2014, 09:23:56 am
Presently negotiating a move to 50% time....
Is that with work, or Mrs TT?
I'm on a 60/40 setup. Three days at work, two days with sprogs. Go for it TT.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 22, 2014, 09:25:21 am
You lazy workshy shower. I had to go into the office for a full four hours this week.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/22/a3bf2a82916bda9d15b7e19d06d87647.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2014, 09:25:48 am
I'm just about to have similar discussion with boss, now oldest has started school, try and get an extra afternoon off at least.

Do you have a friday lunch finish already Chris? We do and it's ace.

Schoolkids are there 'til 3 or is it 3:30? every day, be nice to finish early on a Friday, we used to have it at School in SA. I work flexitime. My core time is 10 to 4, rest is flexible
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mindfull on August 22, 2014, 10:41:34 am
Monday, I could take of the brace on my left-arm. Muscle was diminished to nothing. Yesterday I did my first pullups in over 6 weeks. Still able to do sets of 5 reps, mostly, using the force of my right arm. Not all is lost!  :punk: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2014, 10:45:21 am
What did you do? Just don't overdo it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mindfull on August 22, 2014, 10:55:40 am
Got surgery on the legt arm. Got full functionality in the left hand back, except for my pinkie.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on August 22, 2014, 10:59:06 am
For some reason the engineering firmsin Manchester have hung onto the luchtime finish on a Friday of the factories/workshops of old. It's great getting a Daddy/daughter afternoon every week.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 22, 2014, 01:03:11 pm
Everywhere I worked in SA was the same. It was pre kids too, so it was either braai (barbeque) behind the workshop in summer, or down the pub in the winter, an early start to Friday nights.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2014, 05:03:06 pm
\o/

Weedkiller Traverse, Raven Tor on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/104111803)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on August 22, 2014, 05:08:54 pm
Get in! Can't believe you were strong enough to hang one armed at end of traverse to match then you had to put your heel up, I thought you were just gonna nonchalantly campus the last bit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2014, 05:16:37 pm
Cheers Dense. Though nonchalantly campus are words rarely mentioned around my climbing style :D

A little more endurance helped - learning to rest longer between attempts (20 min) and funnily enough telling myself to relax a bit once I got the final jug really helped... made the final section easier..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 22, 2014, 05:29:22 pm
nice one Tom! I remember that feeling well


The end of weedkiller on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41610634)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 22, 2014, 05:41:42 pm
Yay!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Anth Gaskell on August 22, 2014, 05:49:22 pm
Hopefully my first of many posts in this thread and, being a newbie none of them will be like in the videos just posted but...

... started at Climb North East this afternoon and had a good attempt on the red area's F3a-F4a problems. Hands are knackered , body isn't aching as much as expected yet but YYFY, I've found something else I enjoy that will get me out of the house :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on August 22, 2014, 05:58:43 pm
Nice one!

I'm back from a 3 week holiday and the limiting factor for indoor sessions at the moment is sore hands, takes a while to get some nice protective hard bits on 'em. Have fun.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Anth Gaskell on August 22, 2014, 06:05:14 pm
Cheers fried. Unfortunately it's pay day today so I can afford to buy some gear already :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on August 22, 2014, 06:50:14 pm
Get in! Can't believe you were strong enough to hang one armed at end of traverse to match then you had to put your heel up, I thought you were just gonna nonchalantly campus the last bit

what I thought
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on August 22, 2014, 07:15:22 pm
Last November I ripped the crap out of  my left wrist, completing a 3 year project on my board... This left me with MRI evidence of a degenerate TFCC complex, large amounts of oedema inside my ulna, and constant pain.

Climbing was a roll of the dice, even with a strapped wrist.. As to whether I could sleep after any climbing. Now, I don't climb every day, not even every week.. But hell.. When you can't It really damn pisses me off...I was told surgery would be useless.. As I pound the crap out of my wrists riding downhill tracks on my bike... I eventually got a an appt via meadowhead physiotherapy to the EIS head physio of olympic hands... Boxing based...

A hideous 12 weeks of puke inducing dumb bell exercises before work ensused...

Today... With rather good cons.... As a family we had a blast making up a shit load of eliminates on the boulders above Froggatt.. Loads of fun.. Nothin above Font 6b.. I don't care... The wrist wasn't strapped... It doesn't hurt.

Shit the bed... It's healed.

Thank fuck for that.

The physio.. That gave me the rehab programme... Cost £40...

Best money I have EVER spent...

:D



Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 23, 2014, 09:46:30 am
 :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on August 23, 2014, 10:06:11 pm
had to tape it up this morn for biking... i can live with that..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 25, 2014, 07:36:34 am
I had missed Tomtom's success!
Brilliant!
God I miss The Tor.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on August 25, 2014, 08:57:34 am
I woke up one morning 5 months ago to find the eyesight in my one good eye had been wrecked by an attack of  optic neuritus. I couldn't see,it was like looking out from behind a net curtain.Terrifying.
Yesterday we went to Torridon for the afternoon and with my wife pointing out holds with a stick and some large tick marks made from fingertape,i managed a couple of easy warm-ups. So,so good to feel rock again ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2014, 09:09:56 am
Good YYFYs all round, esp sherlock. Stick with it mate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on August 25, 2014, 09:28:17 am
Cheers Chris.It's going to be a long haul but I'll have to learn to enjoy the process of getting fit/well again as well as the tiny victories.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 25, 2014, 10:31:07 am
Nice one Fatdoc & Sherlock \o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 25, 2014, 11:14:47 am
In the land of the blind, the man bouldering at Torridon is king!

That's pretty scary....hope you have many more small victories and keep on enjoying the rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 25, 2014, 11:18:34 am
Nice one Fatdoc & Sherlock \o/

+1
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on August 25, 2014, 11:23:47 am
In the land of the blind, the man bouldering at Torridon

Cheers folks :)
Fiend,I can assure you that there was nothing regal in my progress yesterday,just a lot of grunting and toe-scuffing....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2014, 12:15:35 pm
Sounds like my everyday bouldering efforts, if you add in swearing and crying too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 25, 2014, 12:19:38 pm
 ;D
Happy for you Sherlock, there's nothing like a health-related YYFY!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GazM on August 25, 2014, 12:23:31 pm
Great news Nige! From little acorns... Me and Bettsy were in the glen yesterday too, Southside exploration.  Your efforts sound like mine!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on August 25, 2014, 12:55:47 pm
Cheers Gaz, was it your car parked at the Seanna Mheallan pull-out?Find anything good?
On the bad news front the recent floods have undermined The Ship and Malc's has tilted outward by about 15 degrees....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2014, 12:58:11 pm
Really?? How does that leave the Mission and the rest of the probs?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on August 25, 2014, 01:39:02 pm
No,not really just a rather feeble jest on my part. Just realised I might have given Gaz a seizure... :sorry:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GazM on August 25, 2014, 01:54:44 pm
Ha ha! We actually finished our session at the Jumble, so I knew that Malc's remained intact (although if it went 15 degrees the other way I might have a chance).  Some cool stuff on the Southside, but fairly spread out.  Rich has updated his Flickr with 2 pics of me on cracking problems (i.e. not doing them.) Sorry,  :off:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 25, 2014, 02:03:28 pm
Funny! Had me going.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 25, 2014, 11:29:45 pm
Happy about these!
One Armed Pull Up Variation on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/104277058)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on August 26, 2014, 10:10:46 am
Cool Nibs.That's pretty impressive to a punter like me :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 26, 2014, 10:22:10 am
Nice one Nibble you beast, good dedication to pure strength. Next time can we have one where you lower your legs slowly?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 26, 2014, 11:52:38 am
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 30, 2014, 07:06:58 pm
One of the best problems in Yorkshire? Definitely put a smile on my face!  :punk:

Trust - 7A on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/104804414)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on August 30, 2014, 09:39:59 pm
It's a good un. Nice one! :clap2:








It's not 7a though...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mr chaz on September 03, 2014, 07:54:43 pm
First 7c today,  cry of despair at the cornice  :dance1:
3 weeks ago my hardest red point was 7a!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 04, 2014, 01:19:34 pm
Very very happy!
I have been doing it right, and science proved it!
Today I did something that I don't like doing, and I faced some demons. A friend of mine is a Sports Doctor and he'r running a series of tests to measure body composition, etc. with those funny electrical things.
He's also measuring something in the forearms of climbers.
Anyway, I got in and was happily surprised with the results: everything is good and I am perfectly hydrated, one thing that has always been a little concern because I tend to forget about drinking (water).
Science is good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on September 04, 2014, 02:53:05 pm
First 7c today,  cry of despair at the cornice  :dance1:
3 weeks ago my hardest red point was 7a!

 :clap2: Any secrets you want to share?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Anth Gaskell on September 04, 2014, 04:29:53 pm
Managed the two problems that I couldn't get my body around last time I was at Climb North East (Ferryhill), my first overhang and one around a doorway. Felt more confident descending by the end of the session too. Happy Anth :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mr chaz on September 04, 2014, 04:34:38 pm
Ha, no secrets other than a distinct lack of sport climbing prior to this summer. Oh and maybe a bit of beginner's luck, 'tis my first season on peak limestone  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 11, 2014, 02:11:26 pm
YYFY!
Not only the book I translated, "Echoes" by Nick Bullock, is about to be published, but I had the confirmation that it will have my Preface to the Italian Edition!
Grinning like a mofo.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 11, 2014, 02:31:13 pm
Skillz! Now go do some more one arm stunts :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on September 12, 2014, 12:20:02 pm
Last night was my last after work session this year due to holiday next week, clocks changing and the start of winter training.
After a summer of sport climbing I needed to learn to crimp again and get some power back into my arms, so I decided to find a boulder problem to get strong on.
Ive spent Tue Wed and Thurs for the past two weeks working 'Ovine' AKA 'Mutton Busting standing'. Gus drove over from Sheffield to Blackwell dale to bring extra psyche to the evening, and it all paid off!

Its a top notch boulder problem on great quality limestone. Felt very hard for 7B, deffo more like 7B+ for me until the magic of the send... slow-mo, weightless, hit the sweet spot of every hold, no adjustments or slips... YYFY   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 12, 2014, 12:34:40 pm
7B? I always thought it was supposed to be 7B+, at least that's what it got shown to me as as well as feeling it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 12, 2014, 01:00:15 pm
Oh come on Dense, is 7b+ the only grade you know and see?
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 12, 2014, 03:26:13 pm
Quality grade all round  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 12, 2014, 04:46:31 pm
It's the perfect grade because it proves V grades are nonsense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 12, 2014, 10:29:43 pm
where is Houdini and his extensive knowledge of V8+





?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 12, 2014, 10:31:08 pm
is 7b+ the same as Welford 7b?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on September 12, 2014, 11:14:22 pm
To be fair 7B/7B+ on peak limestone is worth benchmark 7C on peak grit!?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 13, 2014, 09:35:58 am
Not if you're good on limestone and crap on grit  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 13, 2014, 09:43:35 am
Not if you're good on limestone and crap on grit  :P

 :agree:

Can't think of any grit 7C's easier than bens roof!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on September 13, 2014, 09:59:29 am
I could o sime grit 7cs when I couldn't touch Ben's
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on September 13, 2014, 11:20:26 am
The Sun,

Tall person climbs harder on grit shocker

Epic TV:

You won't believe how easy this tall person makes this climb look, it's INCREDIBLE
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on September 14, 2014, 06:24:50 pm
Nothing groundbreaking, but managed to tick off a nemesis at Kentmere today. Cave problem 7A+, all my training appears to be paying off finally! Great afternoon out with good friends, what more can you ask for?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 14, 2014, 07:08:46 pm
Soapy tit wank and blow job?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on September 14, 2014, 07:10:49 pm
Apart from those obvious two  ;)  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 14, 2014, 07:12:05 pm
If you're offering Dense - I'd have to go with Kentmere ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on September 14, 2014, 07:36:51 pm
A good felch to top the day off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 14, 2014, 09:48:17 pm
Don't know what you're missing tomtom, my moobs are quite generous  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on September 14, 2014, 10:11:16 pm
I sense a Photoshop opportunity...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 15, 2014, 08:10:25 am
Don't know what you're missing tomtom, my moobs are quite generous  ;)

Hairy? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on September 15, 2014, 10:14:02 pm
Soapy tit wank and blow job?

Best post of the year???

Slightly bizzare, purile, glib, funny, simple... Perfect
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 18, 2014, 06:48:06 pm
Finally good news bike wise.
I took it to another mechanic, this time one who's been working with 2 strokes since childhood, having also been an official member of KTM cross team.
Anyway, no electric problem!
At first, there was a sort of fiber who'd been sucked into the fuel tubes and then into the carb; then I came to know that the tank has two fuel taps that are at opposite ends, and with a particular structure that needs always an almost full tank; finally, that I have to change my driving style, from easy going around with high gear and low revs, to a little less easy going around, with low gear and high revs...
It's like being 16 again, the surge of power and revs after 5/6000/7000 revs and the whistle when I downshift (no engine brake...) is so cool.
Shame I can't show off in front of school anymore... Not that I've ever done it...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on September 18, 2014, 07:45:42 pm
Finally good news bike wise.

 with low gear and high revs...


Yours is the TZR right? Flat out to the redline every time. It'll just coke up else and the plugs will be forever getting gummed up. Mind you, now you're thrashing it, they'll need replacing regularly anyway. Keep the engine hot = keep the engine clean.

The easy way around the tank baffling is to just ride on the back wheel. You must. The engine demands it.

Welcome to the world of yamaha two strokes  :punk:

I miss bikes, I really do. These were all taxed, insured and had MOT and a few day's later some plum hit me head on on the Honda. That was 2007 and I haven't ridden since. Sold the Suzuki last summer... the end of a dream.

(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10400300_12126730580_5184_n.jpg?oh=4aa92956e1f4ec87368376913d71795c&oe=5488FEC0)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on September 19, 2014, 07:28:29 am
I just passed my Irata Level 1. :) Fuck yeah.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 19, 2014, 07:46:43 am
Congratulations!

Cheers Kelvin, for sure it's a great bike, it makes people turn their heads. Today's bikes have less rounded lines, they're all pointy and I don't like that.
Also, I would never see myself, at my age, on a modern bike!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on September 19, 2014, 11:02:56 am
Climbed indoors last night (bear with me) and my fingers feel completely normal this morning. Didn't avoid any small holds either.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 19, 2014, 01:14:04 pm
Mine's even simpler. I went climbing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 19, 2014, 03:58:43 pm
I went climbing on grit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 19, 2014, 05:09:01 pm
Jesus, I tell you, we're bloody unstoppable!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on September 19, 2014, 05:38:43 pm
We are. Very happy to have done Indecent today.

If you'd seen the warm-up to get the clips in you may have questioned whether I'd ever climbed before but from somewhere I linked the hard bottom section from the ground for the first time then continued (slowly) up the wall with a minimum amount of fuss.  Not a big grade but long routes with the need to recover at shakes has been a big weakness for the last few years so it makes all the monotonous Aerocap sessions worthwhile.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 19, 2014, 06:39:40 pm
I might be going climbing tomorrow, if it doesn't rain.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on September 19, 2014, 06:49:11 pm
All permits suspended yesterday and today, they'll need a crowbar and a winch to get me out of the tea shack tommorow
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on September 23, 2014, 01:05:41 pm
bit of a sad yyfy, but feels like a big deal to me.

closed my no 1.5 CoC yesterday morning for the first time in many years and for the first time ever without tape or ibuprofen  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 23, 2014, 02:35:51 pm
I might be going climbing tomorrow, if it doesn't rain.

Which it did, but I went anyway, and had a great time. Triumph of desire over meteorology. Yyfy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 26, 2014, 05:36:54 am
After 6 days of work I sent my project!  Possibly my first 8B!!!!!!!!  Also did an 8A FA and a 7C FA today.  Absolutely incredible day!!!!  Best ever climbing day yet :)

Been doing this ever since:  :dance1:  :beer2:  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 26, 2014, 05:49:00 am
Not yet, but we did get video, so we'll get it uploaded soon.  We've got some really outstanding footage from this year.  We've all stepped up the game in terms of big, bold, and hard.  Some really stellar lines have gone down.  A few that are 5 star anywhere in the world.....

I got on it last week and left demoralized after getting totally shutdown.  Complete and abject failure.  Today though the warmup was perfect, the vibe was good, and conditions were perfect.  Makes a huge difference to have everything line up all at once. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 26, 2014, 06:44:18 am
have you got any good footage of you dancing and drinking beer to celebrate?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 26, 2014, 06:49:15 am
Brilliant stuff Sasquatch!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 26, 2014, 06:56:11 am
have you got any good footage of you dancing and drinking beer to celebrate?
not yet, but the night is still young on this side of the planet.

Brilliant stuff Sasquatch!
Thanks!

This was the third oldest unclimbed local project I know of around these parts.  The second oldest has broken a few times and is likely v14/15ish.  The next oldest is in my sights for the end of the month. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 26, 2014, 07:15:04 am
Monster
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 26, 2014, 07:46:40 am
Brilliant!
Congrats beast!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on September 26, 2014, 07:50:45 am
Cool, nice work, looking forward to the video!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 26, 2014, 07:52:43 am
Fantastic!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 26, 2014, 09:08:33 am
Not yet, but we did get video, so we'll get it uploaded soon. 

Save it for a mega compilation of the year's work, once you are dowin to 2 hours of daylight and 10 feet of snow! Good work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on September 26, 2014, 12:33:10 pm
Fuck yeah! Awesome stuff Todd!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 26, 2014, 02:51:01 pm
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on September 26, 2014, 04:12:01 pm
YYFY. Sudan bouldering trip booked. This will be the winter of my getfuckinstronginprep. Raaaaaa
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 26, 2014, 09:53:28 pm
is this the same Sudan that's next door to South Sudan?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csurfleet on September 29, 2014, 01:15:06 pm
Yup. Lovely neighbours and all that...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BobbyBear on October 02, 2014, 04:57:29 pm
Just one YES...
After 8 weeks of indoor, done first V0s outdoors 2 @ RAC 2 @ PEX, beginner shit maybe but made me happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 02, 2014, 05:09:59 pm
That's all that matters.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on October 02, 2014, 06:10:34 pm
Just one YES...
After 8 weeks of indoor, done first V0s outdoors 2 @ RAC 2 @ PEX, beginner shit maybe but made me happy.

There is no beginner shit at Pex. Well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim Pope on October 02, 2014, 08:04:32 pm
Did revelations the other day. No big deal in the scheme of things, but I was pretty chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 02, 2014, 08:14:08 pm
Would you prefer it to be reported in the Significant Repeats thread or in a thread of its own?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 02, 2014, 08:14:08 pm
Good effort \o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 02, 2014, 08:15:49 pm
Nicely done, on and off the rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 02, 2014, 08:49:36 pm
Strong first post Jim! Good man
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 02, 2014, 08:58:41 pm

Did revelations the other day. No big deal in the scheme of things, but I was pretty chuffed.

And Mr Pope wins.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 02, 2014, 09:11:07 pm
Really!
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 02, 2014, 10:29:52 pm
Excellent.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on October 03, 2014, 09:16:43 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on October 03, 2014, 10:13:05 am
 Effort!  ;D :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 03, 2014, 10:18:44 am
LOL people are actually taking it seriously?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on October 03, 2014, 10:25:47 am
You've got to admit, if it is a troll it's perfectly done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 03, 2014, 11:15:20 am
Well as soon as I saw there were new posts in the YYFY thread I knew it would be a """Jim Pope""" post without even clicking. Blindingly obvious if slightly amusing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 03, 2014, 11:21:54 am
I'd like to think it was Jim, the few times I've met him it's like he's got an old head on young shoulders. Good effort, on both counts.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on October 03, 2014, 11:52:18 am
Well, Bonjoy has outed me in the karma stats so...
Sorry, just a bit of fun. And if Jim ever does want to join he can start out with a bunch of positive karma.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2014, 11:53:33 am
I've met him it's like he's got an old head on young shoulders.

A bit like someone with a small head on large shoulders?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 03, 2014, 11:56:07 am
I've met him it's like he's got an old head on young shoulders.

A bit like someone with a small head on large shoulders?

Is Jim Pope Patrick Vieira?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 03, 2014, 12:21:05 pm
I cleaned a tonne of moss off a couple of boulders by Vallorcine crag a month or so ago. Went yesterday to finish off cleaning and get stuck in.

My first objective got slowly harder as the pile of once-attached rocks was growing larger...

Just as I was going to give up I realised I could start from the left (not such a pure line, but fun moves). After figuring out the body-tension intensive start I had a few goes linking into the standing start (which I'd done earlier). No dice. Couldn't latch the crux move.

Went back up in cooler conditions, took a saw with me to cut away a dead tree to open up another fun problem. Got that one ticked pretty quick - not particularly difficult, only around Font 6B, steep with heel hooks, arete slapping and a few jugs. Worthwhile, but not classic.

Then went back round to the main mission. This time the start moves felt more striaghtforward. After doing the start twice I moved the pads and linked the full thing, not without a sketchy, hurried re-chalk as I was slipping of a rounded edge. Always fun with a slopey landing, no spotters and a pad with less padding than, well, something not very padded. Grade wise - not sure, ~Font 6C.

The original intended start still felt desperate. It has holds, but it's horizontal. I'm not very good at projecting on boulders, so I'm not sure I'll figure it out. Maybe take some others up and get a group sesh on it.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2014, 01:12:44 pm
Or just wait til it gets covered in snow....

Nice one, but no tick without video evidence.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 03, 2014, 01:47:20 pm
Just wait till the EM-5 arrives - then I an capture all my flailing, foot slipping poor technique in HD!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 03, 2014, 01:51:16 pm
Oh dammit I knew it wasn't the real one!
Good troll though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on October 03, 2014, 03:08:21 pm
Just wait till the EM-5 arrives

Sounds exciting! What lens(es) are you going for?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 03, 2014, 07:13:45 pm
Just the 12-50 to start,  but keeping an eye on ebay for 20mm f1.7s.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 06, 2014, 10:27:54 am
Well, Bonjoy has outed me in the karma stats so...
Sorry, just a bit of fun. And if Jim ever does want to join he can start out with a bunch of positive karma.

Though shalt not worship false idols. Or false Popes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: krymson on October 06, 2014, 11:13:00 am
First 7a, and then a 2nd the same day. Also took down a bothersome 6c and one-hung a 7a+
YYFY , especially so since the 7as felt solid - no flailing or wailing involved.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on October 06, 2014, 11:24:09 am
sounds like an awesome day.
What was the 7a?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: krymson on October 06, 2014, 04:31:30 pm
It's the red line on the left of this picture. Mr. Anonymous, a crimpy 5.11d on the central face of the Gold Wall here in Long Dong, Taiwan. The one hang 7a+ was Very Inconvenient, the red X-ed climb on the right.

Warning:  huge picture ahead
(http://i.imgur.com/3cRvRAY.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 06, 2014, 06:09:49 pm
That really is a huge Long Dong  :blink:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 06, 2014, 08:46:04 pm
Nice one. Always good to get a project ticked !
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 07, 2014, 12:09:22 pm
Looks like nice rock and good climbing. Good work.

Sorry, I meant to say; is that all, you really should try harder :)

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24833.0/topicseen.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24833.0/topicseen.html)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 07, 2014, 02:09:35 pm
It's a personal achievement in yes yes fuckin yes. That's a good effort and it's where it belongs. If it was posted up as news, I'd have said that's the shittest thing I've ever seen and that wouldn't have been disrespectful in any way.
Krymson knows this that's why he posted it here, it's not news it's a good personal achievement.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 09, 2014, 03:39:50 pm
Little nice things happening, training wise.
Managed to gain one rep for each arm on the paused reps one armers, and to consistently get to hold number 26 on my 30 moves long circuit project.
Yay.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 11, 2014, 12:11:14 pm
Finally! Yesterday was one of those special days in which every hold feels good and you feel indestructible. Just one day like this makes up for a year of toil.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2946/15316889807_7f3cdb5482.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15316889807/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15316889807/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 11, 2014, 12:55:38 pm
Monster! Are you sure you are merely pulling up, and not just pulling italy down with pure strength??

P.S. Krymson that looks well nice  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on October 11, 2014, 01:02:30 pm
Yikes!  :o That's a rude performance Lorenzo! Good effort  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on October 11, 2014, 01:19:44 pm
 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 11, 2014, 01:27:00 pm
Oof!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 11, 2014, 01:43:30 pm
 ;D
It's a still from a video that will soon be broadcasted, intitled "Competitive Training For No Outcome", a beautiful concept by JB that I slightly tweaked, but for which he'll get his royalties nonetheless, because I don't want to give a bad image to Italians, business wise.
The video will be four hours long and it will only feature fingerboarding, with small creative bits of board climbing and foot on campusing.
The soundtrack will be made with the Metronome app set on 60 beats per minute.
It will tour all the most famous climbing towns, Trento, Sheffield, Boulder, etc. and climbing areas, from Rocklands to Bishop to Chironico.
Dates are still uncertain, because it will be presented at midday during the day with the best climbing conditions available, because it clearly doesn't have anything to do with climbing.
Cheers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 11, 2014, 02:06:41 pm
Beast nibs  :o
What's the cummerbund for?
On a similar non climbing related note I did 10 reps of 50 kgs strict military press yesterday, starting to feel half strong
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 11, 2014, 02:35:34 pm
What's the cummerbund for?
It's to be stylish when fingerboarding.
Jokes apart, it's to keep my lower back muscles warm so that I don't agonize in pain for the following week after every session. Have been using them for a while now and my back's improved.
For moral honesty I have to say that it also improved probably because I stopped doing snatch pulls. The pain wasn't caused bu them, but of course doing snatches on a bad back inflammation wasn't the brightest of ideas.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on October 11, 2014, 04:26:32 pm
The video will be four hours long and it will only feature fingerboarding, with small creative bits of board climbing and foot on campusing.

Will there be scenes of you riding your bike through/past spectacular climbing areas in order to get to the fingerboard locations?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 11, 2014, 04:33:41 pm
he'll get his royalties nonetheless, because I don't want to give a bad image to Italians, business wise.


I think that ship has sailed Nibs.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Schnell on October 11, 2014, 05:40:05 pm
After a week of ups and downs I got out for a session today in great conditions and ticked my first rock-solid, incontrovertible 7B, go me!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 11, 2014, 05:52:16 pm
The video will be four hours long and it will only feature fingerboarding, with small creative bits of board climbing and foot on campusing.

Will there be scenes of you riding your bike through/past spectacular climbing areas in order to get to the fingerboard locations?
The producers tried to talk me into that, but finally we decided that it would be shot entirely on my crap phone dangling from tape on the board, or resting on climbing shoes.
We didn't want to lose the aura of depression and worthlessness.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 11, 2014, 05:55:16 pm
After a week of ups and downs I got out for a session today in great conditions and ticked my first rock-solid, incontrovertible 7B, go me!
:2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on October 13, 2014, 10:07:22 am
Fat fuck do good  ;D

Yesterday I completed a sprint triathlon after being a complete fat fuck and not being able to run 2 miles without having to stop at the start of august and I did not finish last.
I then entered the battle of Britain at the depot and again I did not finish last

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on October 13, 2014, 10:22:16 am
You fucking winner! MONSTER MONSTER
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on October 13, 2014, 11:22:43 am
Good skills. Weight loss+fitness=CRUSH :weakbench:

 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on October 13, 2014, 08:30:30 pm
Booked tickets to Bishop - going to be there from Nov 13-23rd.   :punk:

Time to crush the mandala. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 13, 2014, 08:36:36 pm
Excellent!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 14, 2014, 12:07:57 am
Fat fuck do good  ;D

Yesterday I completed a sprint triathlon after being a complete fat fuck and not being able to run 2 miles without having to stop at the start of august and I did not finish last.
I then entered the battle of Britain at the depot and again I did not finish last
Great stuff mate!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on October 14, 2014, 09:06:32 am
Possibly (though part of me suspects not) did my first 7a... The main reason I suspect not is my previous best is 6b+.

Curbar Mini Walls - Thin seams next to the small chimney and the big flakes. Guide book says 7A, good hands but poor feet. I'm pretty short but managed to go from a high RH mono-crimp, lower LH side-pull, just went up and to the top of a pretty good left foot edge.

Legit tick, or did I manage to lank something despite being 5'8"?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 14, 2014, 09:32:08 am
Sorry mate, your feelings are correct, I think the guidebook got it wrong or it got malled by over brushing making the seams bigger. Very fun all the same.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=199402 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=199402)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on October 14, 2014, 09:34:46 am
Ah, thought as much - still happy with the tick at 6B though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 14, 2014, 09:52:36 am
Ah, thought as much - still happy with the tick at 6B though

Its in the guide as 7A - must be 7A :)

Trackside at Curbar is oft stated as one of the softest 7A's in the Peak if you're after one to go for....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Durbs on October 14, 2014, 10:08:44 am
Having been stuffed on Strawberries for the fucking FIFTH time, I think I need a break from that particular boulder.
Did have a play on Trackside itself - didn't feel too awful, but equally, didn't get done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gallant on October 14, 2014, 10:16:58 am
Trackside at Curbar is oft stated as one of the softest 7A's in the Peak if you're after one to go for....

Bollocks... I should probably be posting in NNFN that I've not ticked it over three night sessions then. Seriously can't seem to make the heel sit well enough to actually touch the top.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 14, 2014, 10:29:36 am
Trackside at Curbar is oft stated as one of the softest 7A's in the Peak if you're after one to go for....

Bollocks... I should probably be posting in NNFN that I've not ticked it over three night sessions then. Seriously can't seem to make the heel sit well enough to actually touch the top.

with your heel in the dish are you pointing your toe down as much as you can?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on October 14, 2014, 10:33:32 am
Trackside at Curbar is oft stated as one of the softest 7A's in the Peak if you're after one to go for....

Bollocks... I should probably be posting in NNFN that I've not ticked it over three night sessions then. Seriously can't seem to make the heel sit well enough to actually touch the top.


There are other ways. First time I did it, I used a knee in the heel spot. Slightly painful, but effective. I've done it several times with the heel, but it always makes my hips pop in a nasty way.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on October 14, 2014, 10:39:47 am
Trackside at Curbar is oft stated as one of the softest 7A's in the Peak if you're after one to go for....

Bollocks... I should probably be posting in NNFN that I've not ticked it over three night sessions then. Seriously can't seem to make the heel sit well enough to actually touch the top.

The heel lets you tickle the top. Then give it some more. (I'm 5'10")
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 14, 2014, 10:53:10 am
I always thought Trackside climbed pretty horribly. Maybe I was doing something wrong.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 14, 2014, 10:56:55 am
I always thought Trackside climbed pretty horribly. Maybe I was doing something wrong.

I never said it was a three star problem :) - just a soft touch at 7A...

FWIW I think its alright, and quite like the moves once done - but its not one on the circuit...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 14, 2014, 11:00:51 am
I think it depends how flexible your hips are. I always really liked how it felt quite insecure and hard when you put your heel in and then became perfectly in balance and solid as you rolled into it and pointed your toe down allowing a nonchalant reach for the top.

Think I'd have to use r-man's knee method now though with my totally inflexible left foot.  >:(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on October 14, 2014, 11:06:15 am
Much prefer Sidetrack, especially done from low so lanking won't work. Lovely arête movement for something so compact.

Seen shorties do trackside by rocking over so much they can stand up. If only the top was a bit higher and we all had to do that - as it is, it's one of those nearly great problems...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on October 14, 2014, 11:37:42 am
Trackside at Curbar is oft stated as one of the softest 7A's in the Peak if you're after one to go for....

Bollocks... I should probably be posting in NNFN that I've not ticked it over three night sessions then. Seriously can't seem to make the heel sit well enough to actually touch the top.

The heel lets you tickle the top. Then give it some more. (I'm 5'10")


I'm 5' 7'' on a good day and I can reach the top of the heel. As has been said - concentrate on rotating the heel so your toe starts off at 9 o'clock, and ends up pointing almost to 6 o'clock and you'll end up almost sat on your hip. I have in the past got to the stage where I could take both hands off and grab the top!


Can't link direct to photo as it's FUKC but:


http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112834 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112834)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 14, 2014, 12:34:22 pm
Nice one 3T. now less of that chatter shorties! ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on October 14, 2014, 01:01:32 pm
Trackside at Curbar is oft stated as one of the softest 7A's in the Peak if you're after one to go for....

Bollocks... I should probably be posting in NNFN that I've not ticked it over three night sessions then. Seriously can't seem to make the heel sit well enough to actually touch the top.

I'm short and inflexible and trackside used to be almost impossible even when Early Doors was a warm up!
The heel lets you tickle the top. Then give it some more. (I'm 5'10")


I'm 5' 7'' on a good day and I can reach the top of the heel. As has been said - concentrate on rotating the heel so your toe starts off at 9 o'clock, and ends up pointing almost to 6 o'clock and you'll end up almost sat on your hip. I have in the past got to the stage where I could take both hands off and grab the top!


Can't link direct to photo as it's FUKC but:


http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112834 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=112834)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on October 17, 2014, 01:24:57 pm
Not climbing related but just secured tickets to see Ryan Adams in March.... YYFY!!!

Once waited for an hour and a half for him to come on stage at Glastonbury and ended up not seeing him. Missed out this year when he did a few gigs around the place so proper mad up...   :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on October 18, 2014, 08:51:01 pm
Finally did bigger splash direct today. First thing on kudos wall proper.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on October 19, 2014, 12:20:36 am
Not climbing related but just secured tickets to see Ryan Adams in March.... YYFY!!!

Once waited for an hour and a half for him to come on stage at Glastonbury and ended up not seeing him. Missed out this year when he did a few gigs around the place so proper mad up...   :bounce:
Saw him last week in Vancouver - v. good  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 25, 2014, 10:38:51 pm
Classic after classic after classic today.

Licence to Thrill (classic Barley - The Great Man)
Boris Or Bust
Cowboy Daze
Fluide
Crimpy Roof

3 stars all round  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on October 27, 2014, 11:58:43 am
Firt proper grit day of the (almost) season yesterday and I finally did Gorilla Warfare.

I've spent several sessions on that in varying states of disrepair (fingers, legs etc) and it turns out that if you keep your feet out left the whole time, instead of trying to use the crap smears that other people told me to use then it's actually pretty easy... go figure.

Followed it up with Early Doors and Bad Lip before putting in some good distance on Late Junction.

Huff's next?

Good fun day out, not quite cold enough for the grit to be prime, but its definitely getting there  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 27, 2014, 12:11:23 pm
Did you get the bad beta off peeps that did it years ago tho? I've always used the smears cos that's how you were told to do it. How did you do early doors? Did you go low and match? Early doors was always go from the crimp and sloper to half way up the shelf with your rh then lh to top. I nearly choked the first time I saw someone match on it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on October 27, 2014, 01:31:03 pm
I went across to the two crimps as per gorilla warfare, then straight up right hand to hang the sloper, cut loose and right foot high, then left hand high gaston, and rock it out.

I can do all the moves using the smears, but inevitably I will dab on the rock when I start from the beginning.
Fair enough if that's how the FA/oldies do it, but its just seems a bit  :shit: doing it that way...nice problem without
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 27, 2014, 01:46:52 pm
I was just pointing out that's how it used to be done  ;) my early doors beta was actually jihad, you're quite right you go out to the 2 crimps for early doors, this is where people go up right and match and then come back leftwards. Savages
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 27, 2014, 01:55:46 pm
I can't say I've ever been aware of rules for these, I just thought you had shit footwork Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 27, 2014, 03:20:33 pm
I can't say I've ever been aware of rules for these, I just thought you had shit footwork Dense.

:D werent the nubbin smear things on the face larger at one point? At least thats what Lagers told me - and that could have been part of an elaborate web of excuse weaving in his part...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on October 27, 2014, 03:32:18 pm
I was just pointing out that's how it used to be done  ;) my early doors beta was actually jihad, you're quite right you go out to the 2 crimps for early doors, this is where people go up right and match and then come back leftwards. Savages

FFS, you'd better not see me doing it with a heel hook. :popcorn:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 27, 2014, 03:47:00 pm
I was just pointing out that's how it used to be done  ;) my early doors beta was actually jihad, you're quite right you go out to the 2 crimps for early doors, this is where people go up right and match and then come back leftwards. Savages

FFS, you'd better not see me doing it with a heel hook. :popcorn:

You'd run a risk of splitting the red trousers ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 27, 2014, 04:00:34 pm
I can't say I've ever been aware of rules for these, I just thought you had shit footwork Dense.
For my first lot of years climbing that's what I was always told by the local people, same with no heels on green traverse, same with no thumb in the pocket on one of minus ten probs etc etc. I dare say you didn't listen when there was good sport to be had on the 2 25 ft aretes directly behind
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on October 27, 2014, 04:16:10 pm
I was just pointing out that's how it used to be done  ;) my early doors beta was actually jihad, you're quite right you go out to the 2 crimps for early doors, this is where people go up right and match and then come back leftwards. Savages

FFS, you'd better not see me doing it with a heel hook. :popcorn:

You'd run a risk of splitting the red trousers ;)

Usually mustard cords old boy, although sic transit, I don't think I would be able to warm up on Early Doors these days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on October 27, 2014, 10:15:20 pm
Same with no heels on green traverse

To be fair, this is the only correct way of doing green traverse...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 28, 2014, 02:31:11 pm
Fucking hell, I'm going to go back and do Green Traverse WITH heels  >:(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 28, 2014, 04:48:02 pm
Fucking hell, I'm going to go back and do Green Traverse WITH heels  >:(

plural? two heels all the way is tricky 7B
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on October 31, 2014, 11:52:52 am
Just been offered a job this morning in Leeds  ;D Perfect timing for the winter grit season :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 31, 2014, 12:12:26 pm
nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on November 01, 2014, 05:41:22 pm
Redpoint Day.

You didn't get to bed as early as you intended, yet somehow the night was still long enough for the week's carefully built up psyche and self confidence to evaporate. Breakfast sits like cement in your stomach. Your mate always insists on having the heat on full in the car in the morning, so you arrive at the crag already dehydrated. Unlike your chalkbag, which you foolishly left in the rucksack all week and now your chalk is damp. As are the warm ups, which feel hard and scary.

But then you get on the route, find a better foot position for the move before the last bolt that spat you off last week, and fall off after the last bolt instead. Progress. Then your mate finds a better sequence for the finish, using holds that were wet last week but are dry now, and you try with the new sequence, and voila. Your first 7a in the bag.

Also, I note smugly that the route was originally graded 7a+. Consensus now is definitely 7a, plus the first crux is reachy and, being fairly tall with long arms, I can lank past it. So I'm not making any overambitious claims about the difficulty, except that I'm glad that my first 7a probably isn't right at the bottom of the grade.

tl;dr: I redpointed my first 7a today yyfy.

  :beer2::dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 01, 2014, 06:50:58 pm
Nice one muenchener, milestone grade!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 01, 2014, 07:15:55 pm
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5615/15660102596_07fe71fe04_z.jpg)

Been trying to nail this one for a while now, so chuffed! Hard 7A+ a bit conditions dependent.

YYFY  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 01, 2014, 09:51:19 pm
Sorry to just drop in there, and to avoid ambiguity, I was celebrating my latte art, which I was stoked about. Pretty cool, I think   8) 7A+ in my kitchen.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joel182 on November 01, 2014, 10:52:41 pm



tl;dr: I redpointed my first 7a today yyfy.

  :beer2::dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :beer2:

Nice one! Really well deserved - you seemed to be really dedicated toachieving this, so it's great to see it happen.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 01, 2014, 11:01:12 pm
Hurrah! Big milestone achieved.

And well done Dave for the coffee, although lattes are shit as you shouldn't put milk in coffee. ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 01, 2014, 11:41:21 pm
Thanks Jas  ;D

and super well done Muncher on the 7a tick. Really liked the post  :beer2:

Dave.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 02, 2014, 12:12:14 am

tl;dr: I redpointed my first 7a today yyfy.

  :beer2::dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :beer2:
CONGRATS!!! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 02, 2014, 12:45:25 pm
well done Dave

 :bow:

how many hours training did it take to get that?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 02, 2014, 04:41:40 pm
A life's work.

Though there are different orders of "Life's work".. which gives me a good idea for a thread, longest gestation period for a YYFY?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 02, 2014, 04:53:07 pm

tl;dr: I redpointed my first 7a today yyfy.

  :beer2::dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :beer2:
CONGRATS!!!

Nice one Muenchener!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 02, 2014, 11:22:17 pm
 :dance1:
The first of many to come!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on November 02, 2014, 11:26:44 pm
Top work Mr Muenchener  :2thumbsup:

Really pleased it's all come together this year.  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on November 03, 2014, 05:45:19 am
Top work Mr Muenchener  :2thumbsup:

Really pleased it's all come together this year.  :punk:

Thanks (K and others). Yeah. The alpine summer was such a total washout, I was really hoping for a decent Autumn sport season to redeem the year. And it has come through in trumps.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ummagumma on November 03, 2014, 09:27:05 am
Congrats Muenchener   :beer2:

What and where is the route?

I like my reachy routes!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on November 03, 2014, 09:38:04 am
Might be a bit of a reach for you - it's Biset at the Griesener Wandl (http://www.climbers-paradise.com/klettern/location-details/location/sportklettern/tiroler-zugspitzarena/griesener-wandl/), a few miles west of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Be happy to show you it if you're ever in the area, nice little sunny spring/autumn crag.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ummagumma on November 03, 2014, 01:53:03 pm
Cool Münchener.

It's not to bad. Only a hour and a bit away. Drop me a pm if you are without a partner. I'm based in Innsbruck.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on November 05, 2014, 04:07:36 pm
On Monday I got out and nabbed an ascent of End of the Affair.

Since my entire trad ticklist goes:
I'm mostly happy that I didn't break my legs.  :)

I'm also not sure, but my mate reckoned it might have been the first grit E8 of this season? Does anyone know any different?

Video here:
Archie Cameron-Blackie and Kyle Rance on End of the Affair E8 6c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqpfJbnsEAE#ws)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on November 05, 2014, 04:18:15 pm
That's a definite YYFY Baldy - nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 05, 2014, 04:39:01 pm
Good skills, looks like a great day out.  There's a short and quite safe E6 (about F6a) to the right which I seem to remember being very good and with a  few pads rather fall offable.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 05, 2014, 05:09:10 pm
 :dance1: :dance1: beast!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 05, 2014, 05:32:08 pm
Nice one boys! Not sure I'd have fancied that jumping sequence though  :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on November 05, 2014, 05:45:08 pm
Nice one boys! Not sure I'd have fancied that jumping sequence though  :o

I think Ryan flashed it that way :ninja:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on November 05, 2014, 05:52:53 pm
I'm also not sure, but my mate reckoned it might have been the first grit E8 of this season? Does anyone know any different?

Yes. It's not.

Good effort though.  :thumbsup: Took me more than 5 years to get from E1 to E2!  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on November 05, 2014, 06:48:04 pm
Yes. It's not.

Fair enough,

The jump sequence isn't actually much harder, can actually feel a bit more secure if you have the nerve...but that is exactly the problem...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 05, 2014, 06:51:49 pm
It was the insecurity I was thinking about, mind you its not like the normal sequence is super secure.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 05, 2014, 10:59:01 pm
goose bumps...

tears in eyes..

as in, a great piece of film. respect to u guys for the route, and sharing this. gotta b one of the the best grit classics of modern times to aspire to... sweet!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 05, 2014, 11:30:34 pm
Great little film, and well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on November 06, 2014, 09:30:02 am
Great stuff,really enjoyed that!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 08, 2014, 06:36:07 pm
A totally egotistical YYFY.
Our Bunker Girls took 1 and 3 on the jnr podium today at Bloc. Kiera took her first 1 and my eldest Stacy got her first podium on 3!
Not sure yet how the sponsored lads posted as had to drive the Jnrs home.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/08/4a29873f8f7d73fa8139c8ee899bc2c7.jpg)
And 8 year old Lily in 2nd was a star!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 08, 2014, 08:57:17 pm

A totally egotistical YYFY.
Our Bunker Girls took 1 and 3 on the jnr podium today at Bloc. Kiera took her first 1 and my eldest Stacy got her first podium on 3!
Not sure yet how the sponsored lads posted as had to drive the Jnrs home.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/08/4a29873f8f7d73fa8139c8ee899bc2c7.jpg)
And 8 year old Lily in 2nd was a star!

Our boys Rory Bascombe 2nd and Ed Gow-Smith 3rd...

Good to see Ed competing finally!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 08, 2014, 10:15:35 pm
Nice one OMM. any idea what the other results were?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 08, 2014, 11:09:04 pm

Nice one OMM. any idea what the other results were?
Ellis won. No listings yet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 10, 2014, 12:05:12 am
Great stuff!

Second place kid wins for stylin threads though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 10, 2014, 09:18:01 am
nice one, kids

is that Stuart Cameron in the background?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on November 11, 2014, 01:26:50 pm
Bloomin' hell. Effort Baldy!

I've spent the last 8 sessions at the local climbing wall working two moves in a 5 move problem. I stuck one last session, and completed the problem this session. Never put so much effort into any problem before, and it's good to see how things which feel impossible can become a reality. Now to find a hard outdoor project.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DaveC on November 15, 2014, 10:12:32 am
After ... how many years ?... I donned some climbing shoes (20 year old Kamets, the only ones that are not hideously painful) and ventured onto the local indoor wall. Other than a few aches and pains, it went pretty well. Led a couple of nice moderate routes (16-ish Aus.) and bagged a few easy problems in the bouldering area. YYFY indeed!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on November 15, 2014, 01:46:05 pm
It never leaves you...  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 15, 2014, 02:24:07 pm
Just took my first steps without crutches. The power of coffee.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on November 15, 2014, 02:56:25 pm
Edit:

What did you do to your knee Nibs? I've been gimping around too - on day 3 post-op after having six screws and a metal plate removed from my ankle after being in there for sixteen years. I'm hoping to not have to resort to any opioids today, yesterday was a total haze.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 15, 2014, 03:26:08 pm
Hey beast!
Nothing as serious as you, I just had my meniscus fixed, 12 days ago. Only, when in, the doc found out that I've suffered (when? how?) a tear of the cruciate ligament. My knee was full of scar tissue so he had to clean it all out and I think the operation was a bit longer and more complicated than planned.
Anyway, I've spent quite a few sleepless nights as well, but managed to avoid opioids because I had to study and work a lot during the day.
Finally yesterday I had my stitches removed, and they also syringed all the blood/disgusting thing build up...
That really changed everything and I was immediately able to sleep quite well tonight.
So, hopefully we are on the mend!!!
Heal soon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Seb on November 15, 2014, 08:30:47 pm
Finally climbed pill box original. Last go on anything in the day and had to totally fight but the crowd psyche got me through it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 15, 2014, 10:18:25 pm
Nice. I remember seeing that once and thinking it looked really good for limestone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on November 16, 2014, 11:57:15 am
Not my YYFY but all the same......
Great day at Torridon yesterday.Arrived just in time to watch a mate drift effortlessly up Otter's Wall. :clap2: Suitably psyched by the display my wife squeaked up her project with great beta and spotting from the lads.Good times!Thanks Richie B and Lawrence! ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 16, 2014, 01:06:48 pm
After ... how many years ?... I donned some climbing shoes (20 year old Kamets, the only ones that are not hideously painful) and ventured onto the local indoor wall. Other than a few aches and pains, it went pretty well. Led a couple of nice moderate routes (16-ish Aus.) and bagged a few easy problems in the bouldering area. YYFY indeed!

You definitely climbed with me back in 2003/4, good feeling, have a cold one on me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DaveC on November 16, 2014, 08:16:46 pm
Cheers Tom. No arthritic pain today although I have pretty much every other kind....ouch!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on November 16, 2014, 10:10:10 pm
It's not a climbing one (as per usual of late) but I'm really pleased to have:

a) Sold out of 40 cases of my first whisky bottling. It feels amazing to have worked so hard on an idea for so long and to finally have taken hard cash for all the effort. On to the next batch.

b) Distribution options on the table for growing the business internationally.

c) Secured an absolutely amazing first home with m'good lady round the corner from 10b Donnelly.

A productive year so far on the life front, now hopefully to get the psyche flowing on 100% and training to get some rock goals completed.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on November 16, 2014, 10:35:20 pm
Thanks Nibs, hope you heal soon as well my friend. Glad you are feeling somewhat better.

YYFY - I just walked the dogs! almost pain free. 400m in ~10 minutes isn't going to break any records but at least it's a step in the direction. Or more like many really small, slow, steps in the right direction. No opioids today and very little pain except for the first hour after waking before the ibuprofen kicked in, it was quite nagging but now it feels pretty good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 17, 2014, 10:55:02 am
It's been a weekend full of satisfactions and good news.
Yesterday afternoon I found out I'd been payed for Bullock's book translation, and minutes later I had bought this.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7527/15625546570_8ba7987efe.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15625546570/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15625546570/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/15810396505_b5ce9cd909.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15810396505/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15810396505/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/15810396925_1195a05f56.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15810396925/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15810396925/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Suzuky SV 650 S cafe racer. It will arrive in a few days. The bills will have to wait.
I am an idiot.

 :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on November 17, 2014, 11:00:11 am
My wife has finally been able to reveal the dinosaur she has been working on for the last year.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/science/dinosaurs/11223434/Timelapse-life-size-stegosaurus-assembled-at-Natural-History-Museum.html (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/science/dinosaurs/11223434/Timelapse-life-size-stegosaurus-assembled-at-Natural-History-Museum.html)

http://www.nhm.ac.uk/nature-online/life/dinosaurs-other-extinct-creatures/most-complete-stegosaurus-specimen/revealing-stegosaurus-secrets/index.html (http://www.nhm.ac.uk/nature-online/life/dinosaurs-other-extinct-creatures/most-complete-stegosaurus-specimen/revealing-stegosaurus-secrets/index.html)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mr chaz on November 17, 2014, 11:58:36 am
Yes Nibs! Welcome to the sv club, I still love my 1st gen. Proper good little bikes they are :2thumbsup:

Small yyfy,  I met a girl I actually really like and we had a great time together last week on a uni field trip  :wub:, but now I need to man up and ask her on a date
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 17, 2014, 04:39:39 pm
Dinosaurs and love stories, some good YYFY's as of late!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 17, 2014, 09:49:03 pm
Lovely bike Nibs
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 17, 2014, 09:51:47 pm
Cool dinosaur!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 17, 2014, 10:52:08 pm
Yes yes fucking DINOSAUR!!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 18, 2014, 08:29:43 am
Good shit all round. Man up and do it mr chaz. Appproach it like a bold crux; don't think about what you are doing and the consequences of failure until after you've done it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 18, 2014, 09:22:22 am
Love the dinosaur...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on November 18, 2014, 09:55:18 am
Small yyfy,  I met a girl I actually really like and we had a great time together last week on a uni field trip  :wub:, but now I need to man up and ask her on a date

Quote from: Caroline Ciavaldini
Yuji (Hiriyama) put this into words recently: he told me that trad lies in the moment where you decide if you will commit to climbing a route or not. That is the moment when you have to choose to accept the risk. Once you are in the route, being scared is pointless; it doesn’t help you climb better. So get rid of the fear.

(DISCLAIMER: Like most climbers I am even less expert in this area than in climbing. Frau M asked me out first)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 18, 2014, 11:10:15 am
Definitely the best place for advice is here, Mr Chaz

Fast Show - Swiss Toni (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtoyLPROLZI#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on November 19, 2014, 04:21:57 pm
Love the dinosaur and the Bike Nibs!!
Just got back from a 12 day trip to GeyikBayiri...wow!
If you haven't been, or have your yearly trip to kalymnos etc, I highly recommend you going there.

Incredible features, not polished (yet), stays dry when super rainy...great routes, really 3d climbing...love it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 19, 2014, 04:54:08 pm
Foo Fighters tickets for Murrayfield in June!

(waits for the slagging off)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on November 19, 2014, 08:57:33 pm
Congrats

even if they are a shit stadium band these days and probably Dave grohls worst project. Hope that works for your abuse
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 19, 2014, 10:20:49 pm
Completely disagree. First few Foo Fighters albums are just amazing and for me much better than anything Nirvana did and better than his work with QOTSA, Crooked Vultures etc.

The band has been a victim of it's own success since, trying to do something different all the time and naturally getting bigger audiences, so bigger venues, so worse gigs. I don't like massive venues.

Saw them at Leeds festival over ten years ago when they weren't quite so big, got near the front, fucking brilliant. Saw them a couple of years later in Manchester and they were still great but the whole thing was too clean and big.

Albums have been hit and miss since but they're still making some really great tunes (and Sonic Highways is the best thing on tv at the moment) and I'd love to see them play live again.

Having said that, I decided against getting tickets for the stadium tour because of all the above.

Have fun Chris I'm sure it'll be great.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 20, 2014, 08:07:22 am
I saw them at AECC a few years back (just after in your honour was released) and fucking loved it. They weren't shy to play loads from the entire back catalogue, not just the recent stuff, and put on an awesome show. Yes the recent stuff is a bit patchy compared to earlier albums, but they still produce (IMHO) stuff that's worth listening too (unlike other "rocksupergroups" (U2, cough).

I'm not shit hot on stadium gigs either but given the choice of stadium or nothing, I'm going for stadium.

And Taylor Hawkins looks like Johnny Brown.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on November 20, 2014, 10:06:18 am
Not a massive fan of Foo Fighters but read a fantastic rant by Dave Grohl attacking TV "talent"shows such as American Idol & X Factor.Damned if I can find it now though...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 20, 2014, 10:41:18 am
(http://i.imgur.com/dXE7Vd3.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on November 20, 2014, 10:57:17 am
First few Foo Fighters albums are just amazing
Colour and shape was a brilliant album also nothing left to learn was brilliant. but could not listen to them any more after one by one. similar to muse loved first two albums but after absolution I just wrote them off
for me much better than anything Nirvana
I prefer nirvana.
My favourite thing he did was probot a real showcase of his ability and variety
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 20, 2014, 11:10:41 am
First knee phisio session today, I found out that my love for the grind is still there.
While under the electro stimulator, I had to contract my quad in time with the buzz, and I found myself squeezing full body from toes to arms until getting the flies, and thinking "I'll fucking be te strongest man on he planet!"
I love that shit.
I probably must admit that climbing, to me, right now is just an excuse to get strong.
Well, bouldering 8c as a consequence wouldn't be bad either.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on November 20, 2014, 03:04:40 pm
YYFY!
Managed to do Pigswill Sitter 7A in a lunchtime session today! Had a play on it on Monday, but for some reason it went easily today. One off the winter ticklist!
Quite pleased to get this one done. Only had my phone, but here's a crappy vid anyway:
www.vimeo.com/112390056 (http://www.vimeo.com/112390056)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 20, 2014, 03:14:10 pm
Nice one beast!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on November 20, 2014, 03:46:05 pm
Brilliant!  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 20, 2014, 04:20:06 pm
Monster!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on November 21, 2014, 01:48:10 am
Cheers all!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on November 21, 2014, 12:42:22 pm
Free corporate  :beer2: to go and see Ireland v France at the World cup next year  :great:

YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on November 21, 2014, 10:39:24 pm
Got tickets to see Ride in Manchester next year. Psyched.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 23, 2014, 04:44:45 am
The beast has been slain   :dance1:  :alky:  :dance1:  :beer2:
And a fucking great day the rest of the day as well! 

video next week :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 23, 2014, 05:25:25 am
Nice one Sasquatch!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on November 23, 2014, 07:03:18 am
Effort - mega! :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 23, 2014, 07:23:47 am
Excellent Sasq!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 23, 2014, 08:36:46 am
Superb sass!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on November 23, 2014, 02:14:55 pm
Good work, looking forward to the video.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 23, 2014, 06:36:10 pm
The beast has been slain 

Ariiiiiiiight!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on November 23, 2014, 07:04:38 pm
Awesome stuff!! Brilliant work Todd.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 23, 2014, 07:09:06 pm
Monster, monster!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kampinho on November 23, 2014, 07:42:30 pm
Congrats Sasquatch!!!

Definitely worth to deactivate my read-only status!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on November 23, 2014, 08:32:04 pm
Nice one Mr Sasquatch!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andybfreeman on November 23, 2014, 11:04:47 pm
Beast! looking forward to the video
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 24, 2014, 09:44:00 am
Got tickets to see Ride in Manchester next year. Psyched.

http://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/arts-entertainment/man-faces-pretending-to-like-ride-all-over-again-2014112092949 (http://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/arts-entertainment/man-faces-pretending-to-like-ride-all-over-again-2014112092949)

;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: pyrosis on November 24, 2014, 06:48:24 pm
The beast has been slain   

 :o You are a monster! Awesome work. Only sad thing is this means you won't be back to Bish.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 25, 2014, 06:26:36 pm
The beast has been slain   

 :o You are a monster! Awesome work. Only sad thing is this means you won't be back to Bish.

You never know.  I kept hearing about some quality Mtn Biking while I was there, so maybe there's something for me and my wife both :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csl on November 26, 2014, 11:40:21 am
Notice handed in, leaving London to live in the mountains via a few months in Spain/France. Psyched.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on November 26, 2014, 11:44:25 am
 :goodidea: and good luck!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 26, 2014, 12:33:21 pm
Notice handed in, leaving London to live in the mountains via a few months in Spain/France. Psyched.

\o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 26, 2014, 01:48:39 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on November 26, 2014, 02:57:01 pm
Good call. Where you moving to?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JohnM on November 26, 2014, 03:09:37 pm
Quote
Notice handed in, leaving London to live in the mountains via a few months in Spain/France. Psyched.

Nice!  Hopefully I will be repeating this YYFS in a year or so's time!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csl on November 26, 2014, 04:36:19 pm
Thanks everyone!

Good call. Where you moving to?

Current vague plan is, March - Chulilla, April - not sure, May - Rodellar, June - Ceuse.

Then try and settle down for a year or so in Chamonix. Will have to see whether that actually pans out...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SamT on November 30, 2014, 12:11:44 am
Genuine from the heart YYFY

After a good few months of scanning various clips. . Yes!!!! I was there..
Carl cox 30th birthday Vibalite.

25:02 - 25:10

Vibealite Carl Cox Birthday 29th July 1994 Venue …: http://youtu.be/a-OyrEJpO5U

  My missus reckons it's not necessarily something to be proud of. . but hell yeah.

And what is more astounding is it happens to be set to my all time fave tune of the time .. "bass reaction - technophobia" as I had recorded on a tape from stu allens key 103 sessions.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on December 03, 2014, 05:51:36 pm
George Osbourne you foo-king stamp duty altering beauty. Kerching! Get in!!!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 03, 2014, 06:17:42 pm
I'm partly wincing at the £4k extra we paid in stamp duty earlier this year, but mainly pretty confident that the value of our house will go up by at least that amount as a result of other folk paying less stamp duty from now on

I assume that it will add 4k to their available deposit rather than to their total budget

that sudden cost rise at the 250k point was mental

check me out with my middle class post
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on December 03, 2014, 06:44:15 pm
Swings and roundabouts I guess but it's awesome for us in the short term as we get the keys next Friday.
check me out with my middle class post
Yeah, I originally put down the saving from the Gman, but then I realised you could 'do the math'.
It's a bedsit above a kebab shop. Really. :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 03, 2014, 06:49:42 pm
we get the keys next Friday.

awesome timing

YYFY indeed!   :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on December 03, 2014, 07:17:29 pm

It's a bedsit above a kebab shop. Really. :whistle:
[/quote]

What could be better than living above a kebab shop? :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petekitso on December 03, 2014, 07:26:59 pm
We completed four days ago . . .

At least I can continue to despise Osborne without feeling conflicted.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 03, 2014, 07:49:42 pm
Seems like a sensible change and glad that it helps some people on here. However in the grand scheme of things it's just headline grabbing pissing in the wind and Osborne is a lying cunt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petekitso on December 03, 2014, 08:21:58 pm
I agree.

And his timing is terrible.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on December 03, 2014, 08:49:24 pm
George Osbourne you foo-king stamp duty altering beauty. Kerching! Get in!!!!!!

Indeed, a progressive tax reform.

That should swing the election.  YYFY

Jasper, you need to get a grip.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on December 03, 2014, 09:28:18 pm
Ahhhhh! This is the YYFY page not the let's bitch and moan page.
Pete, that's shit timing indeed. Hit up the NNFN.
Jasper...I'm not going there on this page. As for the C word :spank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2014, 09:38:58 pm
1st YYFY climbing related of the eve.. No dis to above...

Today is my birthday.

I don't work on my  birthday... I played Far Cry 4 for 90 mins then saw sense..

 I Don't climb outside as much as I should.

I did today.

I have a maxim ( voiced on here before)... That as long as I can climb font 7a every year... In my middle aged decline... I can still call myself some sort of boulderer.. Has to be done every year.

I left it a bit late this year. It was boiling hot in the sun today at Stanage.

Luck was in my side, two 7as I've done before first go, another 3rd go and SOOO soo darn close to 7a+... Skin then all fell off.

No wind, perfect blue skies, very quiet.

Now... That's a birthday :D

Home made pizza, couple of beers, sore skin... Open fire.

Bed.

YYFY

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on December 03, 2014, 09:43:11 pm
Top quality post. Good effort and happy birthday :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 03, 2014, 09:48:38 pm
Happy Birthday Fatdoc :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2014, 09:50:11 pm
Cheers mate,

One the best days I've had in years tbh... Shout out to those at the plantation that gave me the crongrats shouted over the boulder field on one completion. The wind was so still we could all hear what everyone did!! You could hear a bird's wing beat. Vert rare. Rather special experience. only 4 teams there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 03, 2014, 09:54:35 pm
Fantastic!  :bow:

Many happy returns.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2014, 10:04:02 pm
Cheers pal.. Mint day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 03, 2014, 10:10:39 pm
As I've said before on other posts recently...

The love of this pursuit..

" it never leaves you"

And that is a good, good thing...

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 03, 2014, 10:20:41 pm


I left it a bit late this year.


Not late at all... perfect timing in fact  :icon_beerchug:

Glad to hear it's been a great birthday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 03, 2014, 10:33:44 pm

Not late at all... perfect timing in fact  :icon_beerchug:

Glad to hear it's been a great birthday.

Second this- makes it all the more memorable. I remember doing Body Machine on my 40-somethingth- still brings a little smug smile to my chops  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 03, 2014, 10:47:52 pm
 :dance1: Happy birthday!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on December 03, 2014, 11:23:18 pm
1st YYFY climbing related of the eve.. No dis to above...

Today is my birthday.

I don't work on my  birthday... I played Far Cry 4 for 90 mins then saw sense..

 I Don't climb outside as much as I should.

I did today.

I have a maxim ( voiced on here before)... That as long as I can climb font 7a every year... In my middle aged decline... I can still call myself some sort of boulderer.. Has to be done every year.

I left it a bit late this year. It was boiling hot in the sun today at Stanage.

Luck was in my side, two 7as I've done before first go, another 3rd go and SOOO soo darn close to 7a+... Skin then all fell off.

No wind, perfect blue skies, very quiet.

Now... That's a birthday :D

Home made pizza, couple of beers, sore skin... Open fire.

Bed.

YYFY

There are many reasons I fuck over the parts of my life for climbing , but this ^^^ has got to be up there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on December 04, 2014, 12:12:47 am
Happy Birthday Fatdoc! Sounds a top day! Surely with a smidgen of training you could be in Font 8a territory!? Never mind decline!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 04, 2014, 07:54:49 am
We completed four days ago . . .

At least I can continue to despise Osborne without feeling conflicted.

It's OK, andyd said he'll give you half, based on the aforementioned swings and roundabouts principle.

And happy birthday fatdoc.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on December 04, 2014, 09:00:31 am
Yep,Happy Birthday for yesterday,fatdoc and sounded like you had a good one!
Sort of  :off: but still on the subject of birthdays,last night I went out for a birthday pizza with an 80 yo woman who in her  youth climbed with the Creag Dhu and was pals with Cunningham,Robin Smith et al. An amazing  and interesting person.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Joepicalli on December 04, 2014, 09:16:27 am
What a lovely, lovely post well done fatdoc.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on December 04, 2014, 09:31:47 am
 :2thumbsup: Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 04, 2014, 09:37:19 am
Surely a Games Games Games NNFN that ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on December 04, 2014, 10:33:33 am
It's OK, andyd said he'll give you half, based on the aforementioned swings and roundabouts principle.
Call it a pint? :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on December 04, 2014, 11:41:57 am
Nice on FD.
You could play outside at the weekend as well if you fancy it ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on December 04, 2014, 01:32:15 pm
Quote from: SamT
And what is more astounding is it happens to be set to my all time fave tune of the time .. "bass reaction - technophobia" as I had recorded on a tape from stu allens key 103 sessions...

Awesome YYFY!! Have spent numerous hours searching for similar footage to no avail!!

Great tune as well :) Deffo something to be proud of!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 04, 2014, 03:14:28 pm
Big up the scottish bouncy techno massive  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 04, 2014, 05:56:57 pm
Nice on FD.
You could play outside at the weekend as well if you fancy it ?

I've sent you a txt, can only manage a dawn raid on Sunday, hope to have more time for bouldering in the next few months!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on December 05, 2014, 09:29:48 am
Didnt get the text mate but tomorrow is my day this weekend
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 05, 2014, 09:56:52 pm
Sheez.. Have u changed yr number? Mines the same. Up for this over the winter.. PM yr number plz mate.. ( mine hasn't ever changed) Sunday morns are the time for me... Or you could tempt me to try the odd Sat lamp session!! Me lad is keen too, gives me the pass out ;) I'm getting rather inspired :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 07, 2014, 02:52:27 pm
Genuine from the heart YYFY

After a good few months of scanning various clips. . Yes!!!! I was there..
Carl cox 30th birthday Vibalite.

25:02 - 25:10


Quality raving  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on December 07, 2014, 02:56:47 pm
YYFY - I managed to do Gibbering Right at Gib Tor yesterday. Has been a nemesis problem for a few years even though its not my maximum. Turns out mint conditions brings it in line with the guidebook grade :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on December 09, 2014, 03:59:10 pm
YYFY! Another one off the Winter hit list - climbed Snakey B original 7A during a quick lunch time session, BOOM!
Here's some more dodgy phone footage...
www.vimeo.com/114029810 (http://www.vimeo.com/114029810)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 10, 2014, 03:32:18 pm
SÌ SÌ JODER SÌ!
I've just received the confirmation that I passed the exams I had in October 2013 to become a lawyer in Spain! I've been officially registered!
Now I have another card to play, to say "fuck you" to the Italian government and leave, should I like to.
VENGA, A MUERTE SIEMPRE!

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7478/15990991275_09c79cf438.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15990991275/)
IMG_1104 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15990991275/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on December 10, 2014, 03:40:20 pm
Congratulations Nibs, Dave Macleod would approve.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 10, 2014, 03:46:24 pm
Ahahahahahahahahahahahahah!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 10, 2014, 03:58:37 pm
Italian law is baffling.

Spanish is just plain batshit crazy.

You are clearly super human!
Bravo!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on December 10, 2014, 04:38:52 pm
That's awesome!!!  Congrats on the hard work paying off!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 11, 2014, 09:32:00 am
Cheers guys, I'm really happy.
The day of the exam in Rome was an absolute epic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on December 11, 2014, 09:44:18 am

Now I have another card to play, to say "fuck you" to the Italian government and leave, should I like to.
VENGA, A MUERTE SIEMPRE!

Well done - but why leave Italy?

To quote Jeremy Clarkson - to be born Italian and male you have already won the lottery of life
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 11, 2014, 09:49:11 am

Now I have another card to play, to say "fuck you" to the Italian government and leave, should I like to.
VENGA, A MUERTE SIEMPRE!

Well done - but why leave Italy?

To quote Jeremy Clarkson - to be born Italian and male you have already won the lottery of life
LOL!!!!!!!!!!
I'm not planning to really leave Italy, let's say that this a kind of secret card to play, should things get worse. You never know.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on December 12, 2014, 09:14:42 pm
I am, once again, a HOMEOWNER  :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 13, 2014, 02:59:47 pm

I am, once again, a HOMEOWNER  :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

\o/ away from twat neighbour.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on December 13, 2014, 03:03:43 pm

I am, once again, a HOMEOWNER  :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

\o/ away from twat neighbour.

You are too kind!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2014, 03:35:29 pm
Italian law is baffling.

Spanish is just plain batshit crazy.


Don't they both just involve a lot of passionate shouting?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 13, 2014, 04:42:33 pm
Yes they do.
And flexing. Lots of flexing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 13, 2014, 10:24:01 pm

Italian law is baffling.

Spanish is just plain batshit crazy.


Don't they both just involve a lot of passionate shouting?
Yes, essentially the same, but one has an "i" at the end and the other an "o"....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 13, 2014, 10:30:43 pm
Cave Problem, wanted to try that for ages.

Excellent afternoon with an old pal at a cold, dripping Tor  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 15, 2014, 09:40:44 am
Yes they do.
And flexing. Lots of flexing.

Sounds like an ideal job for you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 17, 2014, 07:33:08 pm
We got a Van! A frickin Minibus! Big enough to take 8 and pads!
And the dog!

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 17, 2014, 07:38:15 pm
That's good news \o/

Now the important Q, what colour? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 17, 2014, 10:34:26 pm
Silver, of course! i800, fresh off the boat from Korea.
Give the size of our tribe, it's way overdue.
Previously, a day on the moor meant a trailer; as a normal 7 seater can't take four kids, two adults, a dog, six pads and bags. 😄
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 17, 2014, 11:25:52 pm
Almost managed the crow pose at yoga tonight. Means a lot, never dreamt I'd ever be able to bend the dodgy wrist back that far! Seven and half years of slow frustrating progress finally came good.

 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on December 18, 2014, 08:47:40 pm
Well impressive..

I know what you mean about wrists.. Mine are shagged.

Respect.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 19, 2014, 12:27:29 am
Kelvin my best moment in climbing has nothing to do with climbing! I really fucked my wrists up a long time ago falling off something unimportant and it took me about 7 years to finally put my hands on the start hold of l'araignee at Bas Cuvier, I nearly started crying when i finally did. But i didn't  :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on December 19, 2014, 08:30:33 am
Nice little pre-christmas YYFY:

My job has been under threat for the last 6 weeks, but it now looks highly likely all redundancies will come from voluntary severance.

 8)

Now i can concentrate on getting fit enough to get up Fisheye in Feb
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 19, 2014, 08:50:05 am
Glad to hear it Ally, just in time for Christmas.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 19, 2014, 11:13:15 am
That's good news! Been a minor cull here, I'm OK, couple of close colleagues not. That oil price needs to start going north again soon though!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 19, 2014, 12:49:46 pm
Russia hasn't been punished enough for Putin's sins yet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 21, 2014, 11:40:36 am
First time back on rock after knee surgery, yesterday.
I can't move today: I foresee lots of food and a very hot tub.
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 24, 2014, 05:23:51 pm
Back on rock today, cleaned and brushed a new problem (it hadn't happened in ages...) then proceeded to retroflash the roof at Chiesina.
Time for gin and food.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 24, 2014, 05:41:03 pm
I nearly started crying when i finally did. But i didn't  :'(

Cameras, sponsorship deals... they'd make a short film about it these days. With tears.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 24, 2014, 05:43:16 pm
Gin Nibs? So trendy.

The knee healing must have made for a good chrimbo present.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 24, 2014, 05:51:00 pm
Yes I love gin. I found a gin bar in Florence, with over 30 brands! Tried a couple  of them yesterday night and loved them: Ungava and London N.1. Will go back for sure!
I also bought a mignon of Hendrick's that I'll have later tonight.

The knee, well, let's say that the problems I did today didn't involve any heavy left knee action... But it's getting better!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on December 24, 2014, 06:51:08 pm
Nibs - two real rock days in under a week!  Must be a chistmas miracle. :thumbsup:

Glad to see your year ending on a series of high notes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on December 24, 2014, 06:59:47 pm
Yes I love gin. I found a gin bar in Florence, with over 30 brands! Tried a couple  of them yesterday night and loved them: Ungava and London N.1. Will go back for sure!
I also bought a mignon of Hendrick's that I'll have later tonight.

The knee, well, let's say that the problems I did today didn't involve any heavy left knee action... But it's getting better!

As one with two bad knees and having had too much surgery, my thoughts are with you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: psychomansam on December 27, 2014, 09:55:43 pm
She said yes.
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on December 27, 2014, 10:02:34 pm
May God be with you......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 28, 2014, 12:02:36 am
Congrats  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 28, 2014, 08:48:57 am
 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 28, 2014, 09:10:53 am
Well done Sam \o/

That's how I felt when Almscliff let me climb the Keel ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on December 28, 2014, 09:11:37 pm
On the topic of the Cliff...


...has a pass out today and, especially as I'm living a bit further away from rock was keen to minimise faffing about looking for dry rock and headed to the Cliff, which was in primo nick and not too busy considering.


Only thing is the only real project I've got there is Demon Wall Roof, which has been the subject of an almost 5 year siege by me. Wasn't really sure I could take another ego pummeling on it, especially as I've not really been out in about 3 months.


Didn't matter though, as I sent it - a true YYFY moment. Sorry to anyone there who was subject to my over-exuberant shouting when I hit the top!


 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 28, 2014, 09:53:01 pm
Nice one TTT, I always thought DWR looked pretty cool.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 31, 2014, 08:49:47 pm
Have just discovered there's a very nice looking bouldering area very close to where my 'girlfriend' lives in Pennsylvania. Climbing in Pennsylvania, who'd have thought it? (Girlfriend in quote marks only because it seems so odd using that word at 50)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 31, 2014, 09:02:59 pm

Have just discovered there's a very nice looking bouldering area very close to where my 'girlfriend' lives in Pennsylvania. Climbing in Pennsylvania, who'd have thought it? (Girlfriend in quote marks only because it seems so odd using that word at 50)

Perfect. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on January 01, 2015, 07:09:08 pm
Sod ageist madness... When you get  to our age you / I  don't care anyways!!

Sounds interesting...

Let us know what it's like. ( loads of job oppertunities around there for me)

Cheers.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 03, 2015, 04:32:43 pm
I would have never thought that I were so sensible to people's compliments about my motorbike. It's like a girl complimenting you about your penis size in public.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 04, 2015, 09:36:09 am
Sod ageist madness... When you get  to our age you / I  don't care anyways!!

Sounds interesting...

Let us know what it's like. ( loads of job oppertunities around there for me)

Cheers.

I'm going there in a few days but doubt I'll get to climb this time. Also, depends where you mean, I'm talking Allentown/Bethlehem, about an hour outside Philadelphia. If you've not been Philly is a great city.

And, yes, I don't care either ...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 04, 2015, 09:24:39 pm
I'm an uncle for fourth time! Poppy Rose Emily arrived 10 am, home birth (!), healthy 9lbs! Made up.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 04, 2015, 09:33:02 pm
I did Smooth Wall at Shaftoe today. First tricky boulder problem I've tried for about 18 months, also have 2 sessions on it before. Conditions were ridiculously amazing once the cloud and wind came over, maybe the best conditions I've ever felt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nathanie1 on January 09, 2015, 12:01:41 am
Sent Stu's Roof Left Hand this evening!  :bounce: 

Sussed the beta last Friday and went on to drop the move to the break about a dozen times in a row. The move itself isn't particularly hard, I just had too much time to think and was psyching myself out way too much mid move.

Happy to seal the deal before the mental games creep in.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 09, 2015, 07:15:37 am
Nice one. That's no softie at the grade neither (hence my not having done it). Tell Ben, he'll be gutted.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 10, 2015, 02:15:36 am
Kevin sent 15.

YYFY!  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 10, 2015, 08:15:19 am
healthy 9lbs! Made up.

much more convenient than those kits you have to put together yourself

nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 10, 2015, 09:37:23 am
Yup. I'll wait a few months until the incessant wailing and rancid poo gets less
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 24, 2015, 02:36:10 pm
All kind of rubbish accumulates along my drive (there is public footpath the other side of the fence that runs alongside) and there has been a carrier bag caught up in one of the bushes for at least a week. When I went out to clear it up a minute ago I found it contained an unopened (seal intact) bottle of Talisker Storm Single Malt!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on January 24, 2015, 03:10:37 pm
Sorry Andy, that was a cruel joke. It's actually just urine inside that I sealed back up. I might as well take it back from you now eh... :tease:

Good find!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 24, 2015, 04:36:48 pm
Now you're just taking the piss.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 24, 2015, 05:35:28 pm
And now my exhaust has just fallen off. At least that means I have a good excuse not to taxi the children all evening, as I was going to have to. Which means I can enjoy trying the whiskey.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on January 24, 2015, 06:09:13 pm
Sometimes the stars and planets just align themselves, go with it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 24, 2015, 06:42:00 pm
Nice one Andy, jammy sod!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 24, 2015, 06:43:15 pm
Yin and yang..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 24, 2015, 06:48:11 pm
And now my exhaust has just fallen off. At least that means I have a good excuse not to taxi the children all evening, as I was going to have to. Which means I can enjoy trying the whiskey.

Burns Night too tomorrow - get some early practice in, it's your duty as a British citizen to drink Scotland's finest until the poetry makes sense (unfortunately, as I have no haggis, I'll have to double-up on the scotch...... shame).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on January 25, 2015, 05:59:45 pm
For the first time in ~15 months I climbed for an entire session, on a variety of hold types, with no tape on the middle finger of my right hand. I even crimped on the little mutha fucka. Plus had a sweet day despite greasy dampness.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on January 25, 2015, 07:14:00 pm
BANG TIDY!
9a awaits ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on January 25, 2015, 07:57:20 pm
I hope you're joking? I've climbed a few times with Alex recently  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on January 25, 2015, 08:43:59 pm
Ouch
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on January 26, 2015, 09:26:42 pm
very much a personal YYFY, but today I attained two of my training milestones:
1) Pinky monos
2) one arming the smallest edge on the Beastmaker 2

this has been a good year for getting strong, only a few months till my local limestone cave is open for business again! :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on February 01, 2015, 05:08:22 pm
Was originally going to post this in NNFN but had a think and being positive and putting it here instead. YYFY bit:

Spent an hour shovelling snow off of the dick Williams boulder at Secret Garden yesterday. Thought I may have wasted my time because water was running down the face yesterday but to my surprise it was dry today. Therefore lots of people got to enjoy climbing on it today and one woman climbed left hand man which looked to have been a bit of a project for her.

NNFN bit:

Fell off of the easy mantel of Dick Williams 3 times in a row and by the time I refined the beta it was getting too dark to rest long enough to have another try.

So a bit of non-karma there but glad I enabled the boulder to be climbable and I don't mind going back because left hand man looks like some cool funky moves too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 01, 2015, 06:29:03 pm
I fell off the top of this (in every way imaginable) more than 100 (slight exaggeration) times and never did the f-cker.

But good skills for cleaning problems.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on February 01, 2015, 06:37:49 pm
Well I did the topout off of the block a couple of times and thought it wasn't too bad but people were spotting feet for me, then everyone left/were doing other things when I actually tried it from the start and it's a bit harder as you're quite pumped by then! Plus I was using some short person's beta for the start which felt really bunched but worked out some beta that works out better once I was knackered.

Annoying as it doesn't feel like a hard problem when you have the beta but I suppose it's always the way...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 01, 2015, 06:44:36 pm
Well I did the topout off of the block a couple of times and thought it wasn't too bad but people were spotting feet for me, then everyone left/were doing other things when I actually tried it from the start and it's a bit harder as you're quite pumped by then! Plus I was using some short person's beta for the start which felt really bunched but worked out some beta that works out better once I was knackered.

Annoying as it doesn't feel like a hard problem when you have the beta but I suppose it's always the way...

Maybe as a shorty I had the wrong beta, or my famous  lack of flexibility meant I couldn't rock over enough, I've never been back, one that got away.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 03, 2015, 08:14:36 pm
After breaking my wrist/forearm in 26 places in 2007, pressups have literally been a pain. Either on knuckles or stands if I don't want to collapse in a heap and lose the use of the wrist for a few days. Been working on gaining more movement with it lately and tonight I thought I'd give it a go,  managed 56 pressups :-)

20+15+11+10= one happy chap with a bloody sore wrist!

The last five were pretty horrific but tonight's power club comments got me fired up. Cheers lads.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 03, 2015, 08:25:25 pm
Beast, that sounds like a potentially life changing injury, just climbing again must feel superb let alone cranking anything hard and you can probably look forward to it only improving. (but keep eating plenty of meat, dairy and fresh fruit & veg as early onset osteoporosis is not exactly unknown with complex and multiple fractures)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 03, 2015, 09:32:46 pm
Cheers sloper - I was actually wheeled in and knocked out ready for amputation but then they realised I hadn't signed a release form! Ha.
I don't need no excuse to eat well ;-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 03, 2015, 10:46:53 pm

Cheers sloper - I was actually wheeled in and knocked out ready for amputation but then they realised I hadn't signed a release form! Ha.
I don't need no excuse to eat well ;-)

That's one compo claim that got away Sloper ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on February 04, 2015, 12:22:34 am
After breaking my wrist/forearm in 26 places in 2007
Blimey, how did you manage that if it's not rude to ask? Motorbike?
Good work on the press ups.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 04, 2015, 06:03:19 am
Some twat text messaging whilst driving - came across in front of me. 3.5tonner vs motorbike... pretty lucky to be alive how it all panned out but, these things sometimes make who you are/become - it's all good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Whyatt on February 04, 2015, 07:49:35 am
Some twat text messaging whilst driving - came across in front of me. 3.5tonner vs motorbike... pretty lucky to be alive how it all panned out but, these things sometimes make who you are/become - it's all good.

Lucky got to watch it even more this time of year! what bike you riding?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 04, 2015, 07:58:22 am
Some twat text messaging whilst driving - came across in front of me. 3.5tonner vs motorbike... pretty lucky to be alive how it all panned out but, these things sometimes make who you are/become - it's all good.

Lucky got to watch it even more this time of year! what bike you riding?
Only an '83 Honda 200, an MTX. Just been restored, was running it in - my dream bike as I'd had the 125 as a learner. Sold the couple of DT175s I also had straight after the crash but hung on to a GSX750 till 18 months ago, kept it as it made me feel like a biker still but there's no way I can work a throttle and front brake safely and smoothly... probably for the best. Roads are busier, no one looks for bikes anymore as there are so few on the roads. I miss popping wheelies at traffic lights tho :-D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 04, 2015, 08:13:30 am

Cheers sloper - I was actually wheeled in and knocked out ready for amputation but then they realised I hadn't signed a release form! Ha.
I don't need no excuse to eat well ;-)

That's one compo claim that got away Sloper ;)

I doubt it, sounds like the decision to amputate would be Bolam reasonable.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 04, 2015, 08:23:39 am

Cheers sloper - I was actually wheeled in and knocked out ready for amputation but then they realised I hadn't signed a release form! Ha.
I don't need no excuse to eat well ;-)

That's one compo claim that got away Sloper ;)

I doubt it, sounds like the decision to amputate would be Bolam reasonable.
Actually, very reasonable. I'd seen letters from others hospitals giving their opinion and if they'd asked me to sign - I would have. The arm was also getting infected. Jammy bastard that I am, they were a little embarrassed after and said nothing, just packed me off home to Northampton and I only found out about this later from the hospital records being looked at. We have amazing orthopaedic guys here - few ops later and I'll do me till I die.
It shows the different 'quality' of service in the NHS tho, at different hospitals, and that was eye opening - everything was done in good faith tho, I wouldn't complain.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 04, 2015, 11:55:30 am
Isn't it a bit hard to sign anything with your arm like a jigswa puzzle?

Not on the same scale, but I once managed to break the second bone in my big toe into 6 pieces (and three of the others). Doctors weren't sure what to do with it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 04, 2015, 12:49:28 pm
Isn't it a bit hard to sign anything with your arm like a jigswa puzzle?

Not on the same scale, but I once managed to break the second bone in my big toe into 6 pieces (and three of the others). Doctors weren't sure what to do with it!
That's the thing - most people have had broken bones or something as bad, I'd imagine a badly broken foot to be way more disabling and took some getting over.

And yeah, writing can be a struggle some days and easy others.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 05, 2015, 10:22:32 am
Minor compared to your shit though.

Anyway, minor YYFY, did headtorch snowboard decent of Morven (well 2/3 of Morven) last night. Windy (hard to stand) and scoured at top, and crust covered heather at the bottom, but some great wind blown fresh in the middle. And home by just after 11. Now to stay awake through the day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 05, 2015, 10:55:27 am

Cheers sloper - I was actually wheeled in and knocked out ready for amputation but then they realised I hadn't signed a release form! Ha.
I don't need no excuse to eat well ;-)

That's one compo claim that got away Sloper ;)

I doubt it, sounds like the decision to amputate would be Bolam reasonable.
Actually, very reasonable. I'd seen letters from others hospitals giving their opinion and if they'd asked me to sign - I would have. The arm was also getting infected. Jammy bastard that I am, they were a little embarrassed after and said nothing, just packed me off home to Northampton and I only found out about this later from the hospital records being looked at. We have amazing orthopaedic guys here - few ops later and I'll do me till I die.
It shows the different 'quality' of service in the NHS tho, at different hospitals, and that was eye opening - everything was done in good faith tho, I wouldn't complain.

You're not wrong there, given that we only have a small clinical negligence department there's a couple of places which come up on our radar an often lot more than they should (of course one cannot excluded randomness).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: measles23 on February 05, 2015, 10:53:31 pm

Cheers sloper - I was actually wheeled in and knocked out ready for amputation but then they realised I hadn't signed a release form! Ha.
I don't need no excuse to eat well ;-)

That's one compo claim that got away Sloper ;)

I doubt it, sounds like the decision to amputate would be Bolam reasonable.
Actually, very reasonable. I'd seen letters from others hospitals giving their opinion and if they'd asked me to sign - I would have. The arm was also getting infected. Jammy bastard that I am, they were a little embarrassed after and said nothing, just packed me off home to Northampton and I only found out about this later from the hospital records being looked at. We have amazing orthopaedic guys here - few ops later and I'll do me till I die.
It shows the different 'quality' of service in the NHS tho, at different hospitals, and that was eye opening - everything was done in good faith tho, I wouldn't complain.

You're not wrong there, given that we only have a small clinical negligence department there's a couple of places which come up on our radar an often lot more than they should (of course one cannot excluded randomness).

The decision to amputate may be Bolam reasonable, but you'll not find a panel of similar professionals to support subjecting a patient to a general anaesthetic without evidence of consent, in an elective situation where the rule of necessity cannot be applied.
The thing that stops this being negligence is the absence of harm from the GA.

Having said that it is piss poor practice (or in management-speak a "never event")- a complaint would most likely have attracted some kind of settlement if only to avoid publicity - more importantly a complaint should have triggered a review of their pre-operative procedures and prevented it happening again (ie they might wish to adopt the World Health Organisation Safe Surgery Checklist like what all the rest of us have to do, where the first item is that the patient confirms consent prior to the anaesthetic...)

Glad no harm done, and with the retrospectoscope clearly the right decision to avoid amputation, though there is good evidence to support early amputation as being psychologically easier to deal with than years of living with a painful useless limb, followed by eventual amputation1.

1. Can't be arsed to look up; try medline!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 06, 2015, 02:17:19 pm
I don't disagree with what you say about consent at all, I can't remember the precise details fo the last time I had a general but I seem to recall signing consent for the GA + consent for the op, is this right?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 06, 2015, 04:33:27 pm
YYFY First 7 of the year - and first one post injury last November. Lovely day up at Cows Mouth with Andy Popp.

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/64ce7b253db471bd5afa69796f114f5c.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 06, 2015, 04:45:36 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 06, 2015, 04:58:09 pm
That looks like a nasty little hold.
Did you need to cut loose on that?
Bravo!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 06, 2015, 05:08:37 pm
That looks like a nasty little hold.
Did you need to cut loose on that?
Bravo!

Yes - its a bit small, you share with another small one to the left then cut loose, high foot and up.. Thats actually Prof. Popp in action on it.. 3 month soft skin and coarse moorland grit = ouch :) Good though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 06, 2015, 05:38:36 pm
Great news Tom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 06, 2015, 05:54:40 pm

Thats actually Prof. Popp in action on it..

Really?
Did he leave his beard in the office?


He always reminded me of the Prof. in the PHD comic strip...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 06, 2015, 06:00:46 pm
He does look like he's borrowed your wig...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 06, 2015, 06:20:13 pm
I'm not sure who should be more complemented or concerned :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on February 06, 2015, 06:49:29 pm
Nice one TT. Bet that felt great
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 06, 2015, 07:02:08 pm

Nice one TT. Bet that felt great

Thanks All :) yes there was a great thwack when I hit the top Sloper!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 06, 2015, 07:52:57 pm
there was a great thwack when I hit the top Sloper!!
Nice one TT. Bet that felt great
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 06, 2015, 09:50:11 pm
He always reminded me of the Prof. in the PHD comic strip...

I'm not dead yet you know.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 06, 2015, 09:54:47 pm

He always reminded me of the Prof. in the PHD comic strip...

I'm not dead yet you know.

The beard is!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on February 07, 2015, 07:01:54 am

Nice one TT. Bet that felt great

Thanks All :) yes there was a great thwack when I hit the top Sloper!!

Great effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 09, 2015, 07:29:45 am
I climbed for th first time this year on saturday.
I did 45 mins at holmfirth doing 4s then one high ball 6A Was breathing hard and exhausted after every warm up. Just glad to get out

More importantly as long as HMRC don't fuck me up again this week, I get paid on friday an will be able to by petrol (and food) so I can climb again next week end. Also I am going to buy some flights and get the fuck out of this cold wet country for a week.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 09, 2015, 07:37:11 am
Also I am going to buy some flights and get the fuck out of this cold wet country for a week.

\o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on February 09, 2015, 10:24:57 am
YYFY First 7 of the year - and first one post injury last November. Lovely day up at Cows Mouth with Andy Popp.

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/64ce7b253db471bd5afa69796f114f5c.jpg)

Just realised what problem this is. Really nice think James did that when we went up with robin.
I need to go try this again
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 09, 2015, 05:07:16 pm
Spring is here.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7352/16296543240_b97dcc6cfb_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qQ53xs)20150209_161548 (https://flic.kr/p/qQ53xs) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/15861450544_ccbf14ed78_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qaC5Df)20150209_161533 (https://flic.kr/p/qaC5Df) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Skipped work in the afternoon. Brilliant ride in the Sun, snow all around. Got home in time for cofee and board session. Plus, a climbing friend of mine mounted rings in his apartment!
YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on February 11, 2015, 11:47:43 am
YYFY, offer accepted on the house we want, holding out saved us £20k, happy days.

Now for the :no: :no:  :shag: :no: DIY awaits and I don't mean the 5+ at Stannage
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rginns on February 12, 2015, 12:07:23 am
YYFY
Did my first 7A+ today, mint conditions at Brownstones! This year's target of 7B getting closer!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on February 12, 2015, 06:20:55 am
 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 12, 2015, 06:49:40 am
Nice one Tom and Rick!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 12, 2015, 08:01:25 pm
MEGAYESSSSSSS!!!
Did some uphill sprints finally, three months and a half after surgery. No pain, excellent vibes, let's see tomorrow!
You're in trouble Usain.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 12, 2015, 08:03:42 pm
I'd say it's THE test of a knee but I'd be lying (that's going down) but nice one Nibs - brilliant progress  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on February 13, 2015, 08:19:21 am
You are an inspiration,Nibs  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 13, 2015, 09:55:47 am
Thank you guys.
 :bow:
I ache today, and it's only going to get worse during the day. Maybe the combination overhead barbell walk, bent over row, Romanian deadlift, lateral raises, biceps curl, overhead press, triceps extension done twice and then 4 uphill sprints was a little bit too much.
The knee is fine though, just a little stiff, so I'm very pleased!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 16, 2015, 12:11:35 pm
Very YYFY weekend!
Went climbing on Saturday, and tried the project after a lot of time, with good results. Got to the crux with numb fingers but forearms were fine! Also, knees are doing their job! Now I want to stick at it, grow the necessary automation then nuke it from orbit when temps rise a bit and finally quit climbing (because it gets in the way of getting strong).
But the biggest YYFY was this:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8629/16514533326_70a10f186d_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rakipd)20150215_183319 (https://flic.kr/p/rakipd) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7410/16352861118_1ed1a08acb_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qV3FTm)20150215_183258 (https://flic.kr/p/qV3FTm) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Made it to the rings finally. What a humbling experience. I realized that I have no idea of what real strength and athletism are.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on February 17, 2015, 10:26:01 am
Yeah, climbers are weak...

(GOLD MEDAL) Arthur Zanetti (BRA) SR EF Olympic Games London 2012 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvAc5g9BHBU#)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on February 18, 2015, 05:26:01 am
Minor YYFY this morning - managed a double bodyweight deadlift for the first time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on February 18, 2015, 07:38:42 am
Cool. That's something I definitely want to try if/when I decide paying for access to a weights gym is worthwhile.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on February 18, 2015, 08:17:32 am
Cool. That's something I definitely want to try if/when I decide paying for access to a weights gym is worthwhile.

Done properly - and the more weight you add the more sure you want to be with your form - I think it's the best single full-body exercise you can do. And it's interesting how climbers tend to get to 1.5+x bodyweight deadlifts very quickly, which makes me think that it's a very transferable strength.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 18, 2015, 08:53:54 am
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on February 18, 2015, 10:45:05 am


2 x bodyweight is a great milestone  :great:

Cool. That's something I definitely want to try if/when I decide paying for access to a weights gym is worthwhile.

Done properly - and the more weight you add the more sure you want to be with your form - I think it's the best single full-body exercise you can do. And it's interesting how climbers tend to get to 1.5+x bodyweight deadlifts very quickly, which makes me think that it's a very transferable strength.

Yeah, mrs rodma was cranking out reps at 1.5 x bodyweight pretty quickly too  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 18, 2015, 10:47:20 am
2XBW4LYFE, homiez!

I think I'm getting back into weights at the gym. Unfortunately BW is very high but we'll see...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mikenty on February 18, 2015, 06:46:34 pm
Do you get another person to add an undisclosed weight to the bar so that you can on sight each lift Fiend? :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on February 19, 2015, 05:41:24 am
2XBW4LYFE, homiez!

Unfortunately BW is very high but we'll see...

That's almost advantageous - as the weight drops the target gets closer quicker..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on February 19, 2015, 07:58:15 pm
WOHOO! New bouldering mats eventually cleared customs and get delivered tomorrow!! :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on February 19, 2015, 09:53:08 pm
WOHOO! New bouldering mats eventually cleared customs and get delivered tomorrow!! :D
Now that's always an exciting time. Organic or summit else?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on February 19, 2015, 09:57:42 pm
Now that's always an exciting time. Organic or summit else?
Full and half organic with matching chalk bag.. :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on February 19, 2015, 10:31:24 pm
Now that's always an exciting time. Organic or summit else?
Full and half organic with matching chalk bag.. :D
Good choice :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 27, 2015, 03:47:46 pm
At my Osteo appointment this morning he said I was fixed - well enough to start climbing and doing things normally (carefully - but normally)... next appointment in a month!

\o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on February 27, 2015, 04:19:00 pm
Excellent news
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: honroid on March 02, 2015, 07:38:26 pm
AFTER making a sacrifice and moving away from the Peak to be near London so that my other half could complete an MA while I trained as a teacher THEN having to stay down south as she managed to get onto a funded PHD (scarce in fashion / design...) we have FINALLY managed to break free and I have a job just outside YORK starting in June...

...2 hours to Kilnsey and Malham, Yorkshire Bouldering and North York Moors bouldering...

...AND I have bought a van and begun converting for weekend trips around the place. Yee. Pretty chuffed right now. I grew up in Sheff town and love the Peak in a lot of ways but pretty excited about being a little further north and having a whole new playgound of rocks and crags.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 02, 2015, 08:36:04 pm
Nice one. Brimham will be your local venue, followed by cake and a stroll round Fountains. Everyone's a winner.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on March 02, 2015, 11:28:35 pm
AFTER making a sacrifice and moving away from the Peak to be near London so that my other half could complete an MA while I trained as a teacher THEN having to stay down south as she managed to get onto a funded PHD (scarce in fashion / design...) we have FINALLY managed to break free and I have a job just outside YORK starting in June...

...2 hours to Kilnsey and Malham, Yorkshire Bouldering and North York Moors bouldering...

...AND I have bought a van and begun converting for weekend trips around the place. Yee. Pretty chuffed right now. I grew up in Sheff town and love the Peak in a lot of ways but pretty excited about being a little further north and having a whole new playgound of rocks and crags.

Living the dream. I did the same nearly 3 years ago and have never looked back. Yorkshire is ace :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Whyatt on March 04, 2015, 03:30:34 pm
Did first 8a today cavelife so happy, also got a sequence on pilgrim 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 04, 2015, 03:39:03 pm
Brilliant!!!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 04, 2015, 04:16:16 pm
first 8a today

Nice one!  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on March 05, 2015, 05:26:45 am
Did first 8a today cavelife so happy, also got a sequence on pilgrim

Congrats, it's a great feeling!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 05, 2015, 11:26:17 am
The spare original exhaust for my motorbike has arrived, and this means that my mechanic can now cut it and use it to fit the new one that I bought!!!
(http://www.burtonbikebits.net/images/cimg0241-web.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on March 05, 2015, 11:44:51 pm
Just won a magnum bottle of champagne at a friendly bouldering comp!  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 06, 2015, 08:01:36 am
Ahah brilliant! Are you hungover now?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on March 06, 2015, 08:15:45 am
Hungover? On champagne? Fucking lightweight.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 06, 2015, 08:33:32 am
Hungover? On champagne? Fucking lightweight.  :)
Well, it was a magnum after all!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on March 06, 2015, 10:54:44 am
Ahah brilliant! Are you hungover now?

no we all saved the bottles for later (in total there were 2 magnums and 4 standard bottles)

in retrospect i'm glad we didn't have a champagne shower (it crossed my mind but wasn't bold enough to start it) as the owner kicked everybody out relatively quickly after the podium...that would have been the last time he offers champagne at his contests i think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2015, 07:25:43 pm
Recently had my best bouldering day ever: A Northern Soul (on my own so took some introspection to commit to), Titanic Arete (which I'd looked at before and semi-dismissed as far too burly), Iceberg (originally given an offputting grade but actually okay with some great moves) and The Prow (easier but really good fun). Not bad for a fat weak trad climber who lands like a sack of spuds.


Fiend Hepburn 2015 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/121546900)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 07, 2015, 08:36:13 pm
Quality day fiend!  :pissed:

Barrows watch it with the sound off for your own sake
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on March 07, 2015, 08:45:27 pm
Barrows watch it with the sound off for your own sake

I don't understand this comment dense, I watched it with the sound on and quite liked it  :shrug:
Nice one Fiend
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 07, 2015, 08:48:21 pm
It's a sped up metronome of course you liked it! I bet you ran around like an idiot doing 30 sets of 2 finger repeaters while it was on!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 07, 2015, 09:52:42 pm
Effort Fiend! NS is a top tick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 07, 2015, 10:15:09 pm
Strong!

But...


Vaguely disappointed by the unusually tame trousers.
😆
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 07, 2015, 10:27:18 pm
Sorry....I do like a bit of a twat in all blue tho, yes?

Glad you quite liked the soundtrack Barras, for me it's possibly DnB track of the year already.

TT, thanks, I think I enjoyed Iceberg more though....that extended fingertip mono gaston move mmmmm.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 08, 2015, 07:38:01 am
Nice one Fiend :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stubbs on March 08, 2015, 10:17:27 am
Cracking day out that Fiend!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 08, 2015, 10:43:25 am
Bouldering is gooooooooood!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: PipeSmoke on March 10, 2015, 04:32:41 pm
Sent my first v11 today, just over 2 years after sending my first climb. felt goooooood  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mr chaz on March 10, 2015, 04:40:28 pm
Great stuff pal, bet that feels pretty good!  :great:

8a in 2 years... nice
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on March 10, 2015, 06:12:46 pm
In two years? Well done. Impressed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: PipeSmoke on March 10, 2015, 07:29:50 pm
Just over   :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 10, 2015, 08:27:59 pm
I hope it wasn't the crack or that thing at shaftoe or anything in Albaracin? If not nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on March 12, 2015, 10:51:34 am
Triple threat YYFY for me..


YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 12, 2015, 11:02:51 am
It doesn't get much better, does it?
 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 12, 2015, 12:34:23 pm
Great stuff pal, bet that feels pretty good!  :great:

8a in 2 years... nice

In two years? Well done. Impressed.


This is all very irresponsible. The fact that PipeSmoke has only been climbing two years implies that he is a young person. Has anybody thought to check his age to ascertain whether it is appropriate to offer congratulations?
I for one can only shrug my shoulders until I see photographic ID.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on March 12, 2015, 01:13:27 pm
Triple threat YYFY for me..

  • Got an amazing job offer at a phenomenal company
  • Quit my job
  • Booked a 2 week trip to Font before I start my new job

YYFY!

Oh, and if anyone is going to be around Font between April 16 and 1 May, let me know..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Three Nine on March 12, 2015, 01:46:51 pm
I'll be there 18th-26th April.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Three Nine on March 12, 2015, 01:47:23 pm
Tho its worth noting that im a prick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 12, 2015, 01:49:43 pm
Triple threat YYFY for me..

  • Got an amazing job offer at a phenomenal company
  • Quit my job
  • Booked a 2 week trip to Font before I start my new job

Nice.

Reminded me of when I went for an interview in Manchester one morning in 1992. All went well. Had a few beers with the other consultants at lunchtime. Met up with a friend in the Peak in the afternoon. Redpointed Brachiation Dance and Indecent Exposure. Got offered the job the next day and was put on paid gardening leave (climbing leave) for a month.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: PipeSmoke on March 12, 2015, 08:19:45 pm
Great stuff pal, bet that feels pretty good!  :great:

8a in 2 years... nice

In two years? Well done. Impressed.


This is all very irresponsible. The fact that PipeSmoke has only been climbing two years implies that he is a young person. Has anybody thought to check his age to ascertain whether it is appropriate to offer congratulations?
I for one can only shrug my shoulders until I see photographic ID.

haha im 21, so not the youngest! got into the sport late(ish)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 12, 2015, 08:22:48 pm
But what was the 8a?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on March 12, 2015, 08:56:44 pm
Don't tell him!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on March 13, 2015, 06:23:07 am
Tho its worth noting that im a prick.

I'm remarkably unpleasant.

Will PM you closer to the time - would be good to climb with others if you don't mind.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Three Nine on March 13, 2015, 07:59:31 am
Yeah do by all means, am on FB here: https://www.facebook.com/Olorinwasmyname (https://www.facebook.com/Olorinwasmyname)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on March 13, 2015, 12:12:16 pm
Yeah do by all means, am on FB here: https://www.facebook.com/Olorinwasmyname (https://www.facebook.com/Olorinwasmyname)

Awesome, thanks!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on March 14, 2015, 05:42:25 pm
Two pairs of Miura Laces for a hundred quid. One in my normal sport climbing size, one a bit bigger for alpine multipitch stuff.

(Not on the Cheap Shoes thread 'cos the shop where I get them doesn't have a website, strictly locals only   :ras:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on March 14, 2015, 06:20:59 pm
Tho its worth noting that im a prick.

I'm remarkably unpleasant.

Will PM you closer to the time - would be good to climb with others if you don't mind.

Be warned, due to his addiction to Pepsi Max you can't drive for more than an hour without a p*ss stop. That aside, I strongly suggest you go climbing with Three-Nine, he gives himself such a hard time you can't help but be amused AND, if you're really lucky he'll unload on some well intentioned bystander who tries to make small talk at the crag.

My particular favourites have been him telling someone bluntly that no he doesn't want them to try the same route and when someone asked if Subculture was his first 8a.  :worms:

Where've you gone Shrewpert?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 16, 2015, 12:22:49 pm
Finally a YYFY that's not on a BM!!! But on plastic!!!
Yesterday I have a super session, climbed a problem that I'd been working for a couple of months, another one on which I could barely make the moves in isolation when I set it, and repeated another that I'd been attempting for a year!!!
The pros of having a full afternoon to dedicate to the session. Warm up, rest, have a go, rest, cure the skin, etc.
Mega chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 16, 2015, 12:29:29 pm
Finally a YYFY that's not on a BM!!! But on plastic!!!
Yesterday I have a super session, climbed a problem that I'd been working for a couple of months, another one on which I could barely make the moves in isolation when I set it, and repeated another that I'd been attempting for a year!!!
The pros of having a full afternoon to dedicate to the session. Warm up, rest, have a go, rest, cure the skin, etc.
Mega chuffed.

Your dedication to short, intense, indoor hardocore "bouldering" is, as always, commendable. Chapeau  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 16, 2015, 12:29:45 pm
Yesterday I have a super session,

 :no:

for goodness sake man

(nice one on the  crushing)

 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 16, 2015, 12:37:09 pm
Yesterday I have a super session,

 :no:

for goodness sake man

(nice one on the  crushing)

 ;)

Today I spotted a notice board on the platform I'm working out out in Malaysia (well, the Borneo bit). It said:

Talisman Kinabalu Platform
Defective Notice Board

Where they record platform defects...   Made me laugh anyway.  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 16, 2015, 12:44:26 pm
Finally a YYFY that's not on a BM!!!
Fucking mountaineer!   :whip:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 16, 2015, 01:08:13 pm
Yesterday I have a super session,

 :no:

for goodness sake man
:-[
 :sorry:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on March 16, 2015, 03:16:39 pm
non bouldering but still a yyfy for me
i benched 140 today,something ive wanted to do for a long while

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 16, 2015, 03:36:43 pm
 :strongbench: <<< was made for that YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 16, 2015, 03:41:45 pm
Beast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on March 16, 2015, 04:15:16 pm
Wow - good effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 17, 2015, 11:14:49 pm
Not a big feat like the above but...

After a really shitty winter, followed by month of spending all my waking hours in uni the mega project is DONE. Watched some climbing vids today for the first time in ages and IM SO PSYcHED. 3 more days and I can sack it all off and climb in spain for 2 weeks solid. YYFY I have my life back (briefly)!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on March 18, 2015, 08:07:19 pm
I bet that's a great feeling! I used to wake up years after the event worrying about my aviation law course.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on March 19, 2015, 09:28:48 am
Is that a thing that other people get too, then? I still occasionally wake up anxious to all hell that I've not done enough revision for a fluid mechanics exam I took 5 years ago. The mental scars run deep, clearly.

And YYFY indeed for having time off to clamber!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2015, 09:32:02 am
Yeah I get it too, mostly from National Service I did in 87/88. Not sure I can claim it as PTSD though!

Nice one dunnyg, hope your fitness hasn't suffered too much!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: krymson on March 19, 2015, 01:36:50 pm
First 7b today!

Been at the 7a+ level for a few months now, currently have 7 under my belt and have been extremely close to ticking a 7b since 4 months ago when my main partner left and I've lacked psyched partners at the same level. Very recently have been able to climb with a few said climbers and the mutual psyche and beta trading was the missing link. Finally getting that next letter today was super satisfying and confidence boosting.

Was able to get this one fairly quick - it was my 3rd try on this route . Makes me feel pretty good about trying other 7bs and tackling 7b+.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 19, 2015, 01:56:56 pm
Nice one, if you got it in 3 goes then you've got plenty left in the tank. Try a few 7cs, you might surprise yourself. (and the 7bs and 7b+s will then feel easier too) I skipped 7b+ entirely, I can recommend it  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 19, 2015, 10:42:21 pm
Stellar form at the moment. Close to redpointing two major projects on my board, whose moves felt impossible only a few months ago!
Brilliant. That feeling of being bolted to the board, tension like an iron beam, no cutting loose, perfect timing on the holds, pulling like the bad bastard motherfucker that I feel I am when I climb like this.
Come. The. Fuck. On.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on March 19, 2015, 11:12:38 pm
Font Lever - Check   :dance1:

First ever front lever - trained it hard for 3-4 weeks, then hadn't tried one at all for the last 2 weeks, on a whim at the end of a session last night I went for it and managed to hold one for about 3 seconds. 

 Physical Goal #1 of 3 for the year done. Now on to 1-arm Pull-up and 1-4-7. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 19, 2015, 11:27:47 pm
Front levers won't help on The Mandala.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: krymson on March 20, 2015, 02:41:38 am
Font Lever - Check   :dance1:

First ever front lever - trained it hard for 3-4 weeks, then hadn't tried one at all for the last 2 weeks, on a whim at the end of a session last night I went for it and managed to hold one for about 3 seconds. 

 Physical Goal #1 of 3 for the year done. Now on to 1-arm Pull-up and 1-4-7.

Congrats!

At the same time, pretty mind-blowing to hear that these "beast skills" haven't been needed to... well, climb like a beast!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 21, 2015, 01:04:39 pm
Grinning like a mofo after getting the bike back, with the new exhaust mounted!
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8700/16693599030_8333bcbd23_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rra4oW)IMG-20150320-WA0003 (https://flic.kr/p/rra4oW) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

http://youtu.be/7Tj3-NRhBQA (http://youtu.be/7Tj3-NRhBQA)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Whyatt on March 21, 2015, 01:30:54 pm
Nice nibs sounds nearly as nice as my ZX6R   ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 21, 2015, 01:47:59 pm
 :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 21, 2015, 02:13:32 pm
Do you ride that thing up to the front door of the courthouse, flex your bulging muscles while staring out the opposition and giving the look of "I'm going to totally destroy you"?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 21, 2015, 02:53:36 pm
 ;D
Yes, that was the idea! Unfortunately, when I'm in Court, I still feel inadequate and scared that the opposition would actually crush me, so for the moment I'll stik to a more under the radar approach...
But the bike is really cool, innit?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 21, 2015, 03:04:00 pm
The back end looks brilliant Nibs - clean and simple lines.

Nice one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 21, 2015, 03:07:57 pm
Yep, very nice indeed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 21, 2015, 03:36:09 pm
Cheers guys, I really like it and kept searching until I found that one!
I wanted a kind of old fashioned look and sound, and I have to say that that's really what I was looking for!
Obviously it's not approved for normal road use, so I kept the regular one just in case of troubles at the official control every two years.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on March 21, 2015, 07:53:30 pm
Finally managed one of my long term projects yesterday, despite having a knackered finger. I had my hand on the top of Breakfast nearly 2 years ago before falling off, have never got close since. Yesterday was one of those days when connies feel crap, you feel weak and uncoordinated, and you wonder why you are wasting your time instead of doing a familiar, easy solo circuit. And then, something magical happens, the holds feel gigantic, and you just sort of flow upwards to the top. Still grinning  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on March 21, 2015, 08:29:29 pm
Nibs - I'm jealous.  That is a beautiful machine.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on March 21, 2015, 08:32:49 pm
Fontainebleau is still amazing after 12 years of regular visits :)

Mrs Fatneck just spent her first day in the forest and I think I enjoyed showing her round almost as much as she enjoyed being here!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on March 21, 2015, 10:52:04 pm
danm - proper YYFY nice.

Fatneck - you're a cunt. Enjoy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 22, 2015, 09:56:52 am
Breakfast is a great problem  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 22, 2015, 11:47:17 am
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/22/af1c2e7f338cb8acdf423821e06c0055.jpg)


Number 2...

😉
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Whyatt on March 22, 2015, 05:50:46 pm
Quick blast to stanage this evening and did Brad Pit second go third sess one of my favorites  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on March 22, 2015, 07:10:53 pm
Telling all the folk a the Rugby club to sit,down, shut up and applaud the Irish champions for two years running: YYFY, almost as good as my first first ascent. :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: Paul O'C what a legend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 22, 2015, 07:27:25 pm
Multiple minors to make the YYFY.

Had 6 weeks  off, carrot finger ( a2.. Bad one) seems to bear up.

Torn medial elbow joint capsule. Totally OK.

First day on grit for 7 weeks..  I was shit. I met a ton of really nice peeps at curbar. Shit went down, we had a blast... I did GW in overlapped sections a plenty, my son also. Getting skin prepped just in time for Easter font.....

And... I spent the day outside. It was glorious.

Very happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 22, 2015, 10:57:15 pm


First day on grit for 7 weeks..  I was shit. I met a ton of really nice peeps at curbar. Shit went down, we had a blast... I did GW in overlapped sections a plenty, my son also. Getting skin prepped just in time for Easter font.....


Met you earlier then  :wave:

Rolled up at Trackside before you went off to GW. Cracking day all round.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 23, 2015, 08:56:37 pm
 :2thumbsup:  :wave:

Nice to meet ya!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 23, 2015, 09:05:03 pm
Found out today that two growths I had removed during a colonosopy five weeks ago are both benign. And breath...

Laxatives every three years from now on tho  :shit:

Also got the results of the MRI on my left knee, seems I partially tore the medial again the other month - the third time that's happened now. Drop knees are def out from now on! There's a cyst in there too that's not helping matters but no op needed and that's all that matters six months before heading off to Spain.

Other than another wing mirror getting smashed on the van, it's been a great day :-)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 23, 2015, 09:09:36 pm
Never mind the mirror - that colonoscopy result is great news!

Exxcellent.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 23, 2015, 09:20:08 pm
Exactly. You don't have cancer.

Thats. YYFY... RESULT!!!!

The knee will most likely just get better with exercise anyways mate!!




Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on March 23, 2015, 09:22:12 pm
Quote
Nice to meet ya!!
I was the bloke at GW/Early Doors when you got there. Hello!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 23, 2015, 09:25:37 pm
An unofficial ukb climbing scene going on... don't tell Lagers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 23, 2015, 09:38:21 pm

Found out today that two growths I had removed during a colonosopy five weeks ago are both benign. And breath...

Laxatives every three years from now on tho  :shit:

Also got the results of the MRI on my left knee, seems I partially tore the medial again the other month - the third time that's happened now. Drop knees are def out from now on! There's a cyst in there too that's not helping matters but no op needed and that's all that matters six months before heading off to Spain.

Other than another wing mirror getting smashed on the van, it's been a great day :-)

Shit the bed, mate!

I remember the agony of that wait, from that moment just after coming-round after the procedure when they smile (...ish, not in the eyes though) and say "we found something, I'm sure it's fine, but we'll be doing a biopsy..."

Good one, make it count.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 23, 2015, 09:44:34 pm


I remember the agony of that wait,

Strangely - didn't think I was stressing to much about it but the sense of relief was overwhelming. Pottered off to the wall then for a boulder with a friend who's just had his fourth round of chemo... felt awkwardly guilty about being okay when he's not.

Nasty nasty disease.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on March 23, 2015, 09:53:09 pm
Found out today that two growths I had removed during a colonosopy five weeks ago are both benign. And breath...

yyfy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 23, 2015, 10:10:38 pm
Quote
Nice to meet ya!!
I was the bloke at GW/Early Doors when you got there. Hello!

We've met before, it was paining me... I'm sure we've climbed together...  Many moons ago.. Result on the beagle mate.

- I didn't get GW after you left - ran out off energy and skin at the same time... :(


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 23, 2015, 10:17:06 pm
An unofficial ukb climbing scene going on... don't tell Lagers.

He needs to get out at 8, then he can join the dawn raiders team. I feel a movement coming on.

I used to do all my bouldering  within 2 hours of dawn ( fatboyslimfast and Dense have seriously suffered in the last 20 years, for which I'm truly grateful )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 23, 2015, 10:33:27 pm
Everybody's lazy now and won't go out til after breakfast, it's just not the same  >:(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on March 23, 2015, 10:51:52 pm
Found out today that two growths I had removed during a colonosopy five weeks ago are both benign. And breath...


 :icon_beerchug:
What a lovely feeling mate. Good job. Really pleased for you  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2015, 11:13:25 pm
Found out today that two growths I had removed during a colonosopy five weeks ago are both benign.
Brilliant. Pleased for you, mate.
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 23, 2015, 11:22:52 pm
An unofficial ukb climbing scene going on... don't tell Lagers.

 I feel a movement coming on.


Post breakfast and coffee... a common thing and better done at home. Maybe Lagers needs two coffees and thus a later start.

Cheers everyone - now can someone report a proper YYFY. Their first 8A or something?

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 24, 2015, 08:48:47 am
Mate that's as good a YYFY as it gets.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on March 24, 2015, 09:33:14 am
Found out today that two growths I had removed during a colonosopy five weeks ago are both benign. And breath...

That really is fantastic news.Genuinely pleased for you!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 24, 2015, 10:17:33 am
I'd agree with everyone else. Climbing schmimbing, that's a YYFY right there Kelvin. Nice one, boom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 24, 2015, 06:36:42 pm
Nice one Kelvin, I bet the birds are singing sweeter now.

On a less momentous note, I got the job.   ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on March 24, 2015, 06:38:55 pm
Good week all round for a lot of peeps, nice one everyone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on March 24, 2015, 07:20:55 pm
Nice one MrJ - top work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on March 24, 2015, 08:06:05 pm
Really pleased for you Kelvin.

and everyone else too!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on March 24, 2015, 08:50:57 pm
Puts it all into perspective Kelvin, great news
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on March 27, 2015, 04:45:50 pm
WOHOO End of the spring term today! 0930 ferry in the morning and 2 weeks in font... :D (I hope the weather is good!!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on March 27, 2015, 06:08:59 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on March 27, 2015, 06:34:48 pm
Talking of Font, just had my best ever day in the Forest (and contender for my best ever) ticking Controle A, Pirouette Cacaouette, Peter Pan, Master of Puppets, La Baleine and L'Oeuf. Finished off with as much of the Petit Bois yellow circuit as my skin could take.

One of those days you wish would never end.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on March 27, 2015, 07:04:43 pm
Nice! What and where's the second one?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 27, 2015, 07:22:34 pm
Nice work chris, that's a fine day's haul!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on March 28, 2015, 07:17:25 am
Small but big at the same time :beer2:

FA of a new 7C+/8A near town. First project of the new year down, and the heaviest (178lbs) I've done something in that range.  Excited to see how summer goes after I shed my annual winter weight :)  Also heading out Sunday to check out several route projects we bolted/checked out in 2002 and 2003 - at the time we figured them to be 8a(trad), 8b, 8c, and 7c+.  Hopefully I'll report back with 1-2 more YYFY :) 

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 28, 2015, 07:23:59 am
Three excellent yyfys. Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on March 28, 2015, 07:27:20 am
Nice! What and where's the second one?

Cheers. Pirouette Cacaouette is at la Mare aux Corneilles, a lone prow in the forest on the right hand side a bit further along from Rocher Mauvais Passage when driving from Font towards Chapelle-la-Reine.

JB recommended it in a thread a few years ago.

http://vimeo.com/80987936
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on March 28, 2015, 07:39:01 am
I'm so happy.  We've had such a shit winter, climbing season has come nearly two months early!!!  And the timing is perfect as the last two years I've been rehabbing pulley tears...

Quote
Oh, the places you'll go! There is fun to be done!
There are points to be scored. There are comps to be won.
And the magical things you can do on that wall,
will make you the sending-est sender of all.
Fame! You'll be famous as famous can be,
with the whole wide world watching you send that v3...
:P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 28, 2015, 12:47:01 pm
I've recently moved onto an awesome house boat in London and today I tested the cycle route into the city. It's a nice 10 mile ride and mainly off road that takes about the same time as getting the tube.

Plus it saves £7.80 each day.

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on March 30, 2015, 08:54:49 am
Also heading out Sunday to check out several route projects we bolted/checked out in 2002 and 2003 - at the time we figured them to be 8a(trad), 8b, 8c, and 7c+.  Hopefully I'll report back with 1-2 more YYFY :)

Sent one of the four at 8a-ish.  :dance1: Got a good sequence on two others. Didn't make it to the trad route. Next week maybe???

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 01, 2015, 10:32:56 pm
Finally had a decent, pain free storage session! This autumn and winter I've been suffering from: bad knee, dodgy shoulder and pulled muscle in back. Only the knee was climbing related. The  shoulder has been t  most niggly and I was doing loads of stretching and theraband stuff but it got to a point where that almost felt like it was irritating it. Now done 3 climbing sessions and it's got better every time. Today I did loads of the greens at TCA Glasgow,  many on sight or within a few goes.  Felt pretty strong considering my poor amount of climbing this winter for various reasons. Time to switch to power of endurance for the sport and trad.  YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 01, 2015, 10:33:53 pm
Storage session?? No idea.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 02, 2015, 07:33:52 am
Is that watching a few episodes of Storage Wars in a row?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 02, 2015, 07:51:44 am

Is that watching a few episodes of Storage Wars in a row?

If shelve those puns before it gets off topic
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on April 02, 2015, 01:19:32 pm
Survived this year's downsizing restructure at work. Now I can replace my rapidly-disintegrating car.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on April 02, 2015, 01:33:24 pm
Congrats Cheque!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 02, 2015, 08:14:12 pm
Bloody hell, just had a six volume (edited) book proposal accepted! Great, but also somewhat terrifying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on April 02, 2015, 08:15:55 pm
That should be an Oh, Oh, fucking hell!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 02, 2015, 08:46:22 pm

Bloody hell, just had a six volume (edited) book proposal accepted! Great, but also somewhat terrifying.

There goes the next two years! But well done!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on April 02, 2015, 09:08:03 pm
Bloody hell, just had a six volume (edited) book proposal accepted! Great, but also somewhat terrifying.

Good work fella.  No shirking though, it'll need the nuclear approach: cork-line the bedroom, sleep during the day, write all night, avoid being side-lined by infections by never emerging out from under a giant fur coat!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 03, 2015, 08:47:20 am
Nice one Mike and Andy!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 03, 2015, 09:33:53 am
 :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on April 03, 2015, 09:47:30 am
Bloody hell, just had a six volume (edited) book proposal accepted! Great, but also somewhat terrifying.

I scarcely dare ask but what's the working title?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on April 03, 2015, 10:29:19 am
Bloody hell, just had a six volume (edited) book proposal accepted! Great, but also somewhat terrifying.

 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on April 03, 2015, 11:01:47 am
Sweet. Did my 2nd V7 today. Hadn't tried it in a couple of months and did it 2nd go today.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on April 03, 2015, 11:36:23 am
nice jack
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 03, 2015, 03:01:55 pm
You're right Tom, that's the next two-three years totally buggered. And its even worse, I'm expecting the verdict on a second book proposal any day. Moose, I've already taken to writing in bed, so I'm half way there.

Bloody hell, just had a six volume (edited) book proposal accepted! Great, but also somewhat terrifying.

I scarcely dare ask but what's the working title?

"A Cultural History of Business"

And good effort Jack!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 03, 2015, 03:14:21 pm
Andy, congratulations!

Sounds like really fascinating subject matter. You seem to have worked so steadfastly, to get where you are. Brilliant.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 03, 2015, 05:01:50 pm
Update: second book proposal just accepted.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 03, 2015, 05:05:28 pm
Good work Professor Prolific!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sloper on April 03, 2015, 05:09:19 pm
You're right Tom, that's the next two-three years totally buggered. And its even worse, I'm expecting the verdict on a second book proposal any day. Moose, I've already taken to writing in bed, so I'm half way there.

Bloody hell, just had a six volume (edited) book proposal accepted! Great, but also somewhat terrifying.

I scarcely dare ask but what's the working title?

"A Cultural History of Business"

And good effort Jack!

I look forward to reading that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 03, 2015, 05:37:44 pm
Ahah great Andy! On a roll! Get on your climbing projects then!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 03, 2015, 06:10:09 pm
Funnily enough, I have two good new projects almost ready to start trying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on April 03, 2015, 07:12:23 pm
Nice one Andy! That's gotta feel good :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 04, 2015, 06:33:18 pm
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8744/16409785264_1bf62cfb9e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r15rs9)20150404_150502 (https://flic.kr/p/r15rs9) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Just finished one of the coolest board session ever.
With that unique sensation of being the same mofos despite the time and some quite important changes in life.
Brilliant even though I'll ache tomorrow...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mindfull on April 07, 2015, 06:34:37 pm
First 1 and a halve rep right arm/ 1 rep left arm one armer. Did it 2 days ago, but I was drunk at the time. Tried it again today not being in a dream, and it turned out to be a too good dream. Did 1.75right/1.25left rep! Don't know how I did it though. Did not build up to it (no negatives or assisted ones for training). Noticed though that usual and weighted 2arms went so smooth and got some remarks last friday in the climbing gym that my back looked good. Still an injury thoudgh: it's not the deltoid left, but the rotator cuff. That sucks. But at least I can work on my right one armer!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on April 09, 2015, 01:07:55 pm
Ticked my slab project today. 6m insecure slab over a shit landing. :2thumbsup:

Had 2 sessions on rope cleaning it and working a sequence. Only did it once clean on rope a couple weeks ago. Went back today with a few pad and a decent spotter and did it first go. Celebrated by going and flashing 4 more scary probs up to V5 from my winter tick list. 5 down, 5 to go (all the harder scarier ones...)

Thats all my power club STGs in the last 2 weeks done.  :alky:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 11, 2015, 01:03:42 pm
Chuffed to bits. After 3 nights camping up at the base of the Dru, nipping up and down the dru couloir direct, a quick pint in Elevation I went bouldering  with some friends and my girlfriend and she managed her first F5 boulder and I got a 6C and 6C+ in short time while drinking cheap fizzy french wine to celebrate her passing her C2 English exam (she's Dutch).

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on April 11, 2015, 01:16:59 pm
C2 English, that's better than I speak!

Completely by accident I discovered that the second half of Bart van Raaij's 5+6 guide has been released this month, rushed down to Vieux connard and snapped one up. 2 years I've been waiting for this moment.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 11, 2015, 01:45:36 pm
Somehow I had never noticed that the 5+6 author was Dutch. Need to get back to Font soon. And learn Dutch. Not C2 though. Never in a million years.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 11, 2015, 10:37:00 pm
non-climbing YYFY

hotpants are back in fashion
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on April 12, 2015, 09:37:25 am
non-climbing YYFY

hotpants are back in fashion

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new summer outfit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 12, 2015, 09:50:58 am

non-climbing YYFY

hotpants are back in fashion

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new summer outfit.

http://youtu.be/YQ643U7ccpM
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 12, 2015, 02:11:31 pm
hotpants are back in fashion

A few years back the female yoof at the Oktoberfest was sporting short, tight lederhosen. It was a black day when that fad ended.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on April 12, 2015, 05:03:33 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on April 12, 2015, 06:42:45 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on April 12, 2015, 09:00:19 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Easy to see why, anything else at RHS or Cratcliffe you'd recommend?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 12, 2015, 10:53:33 pm
Jerry's Arete
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TheTwig on April 13, 2015, 12:22:29 am
Not bouldering but after 1.5 seasons of Rock Prodigy esque training and making major progress on dealing with my tennis elbow(s) I had a very productive 6 day trip to the Wye Valley.

Previous bests were sport 6b+, and trad E1 5b (with 2 E1 5c's on slate that completely suited my style, e.g indoor climbing)

So I hit my goal and did an E2 5b at Shorn Cliff, 1 at Wintours Leap and then a E2 5c and 2 E2 5b's at Symonds Yat (none of which were particularly soft for the grade), as well as polishing off E1's like they were going out of style. Happy doesn't even cover it!

Also made a visit to Wynd Cliff which is about as opposite to my style as possible, and did a 6b+ in two tries which blows my previous sport climbing out of the water (my other stuff was on slate).

In summary: there's a lot to be said for a proper training program and dealing with injuries  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pako on April 13, 2015, 02:54:09 am
Went outdoors for the first time in ages, got so close to this v7 one move wonder. Next session it will go down. Nice to see the board is paying off. Funny to think I will have gone from v3 to v7 after a couple months training on a 50.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 13, 2015, 07:48:20 am
I don't mean to piss on your chips but nearly doing a one move wonder isn't doing it, and doing a one move wonder v7 isn't going from being a v3 climber to a v7 climber. For instance I could do all the "dyno probs" at stoney, anything from 6c to 7b, way before I could do any of the "proper" probs.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 13, 2015, 07:49:51 am
However nice one on using a 50 regularly, this will get you stronger and get you up "proper" probs  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on April 13, 2015, 12:28:20 pm
Impressive that a V3 climber can train on a 50 degree board.I regularly flash V7's and can get nowhere on a board. I would have thought a V3 climber's time would be better spent bouldering on a bigger variety of problems/angles but I guess it depends on your background. Maybe you climb 8a sport and don't really boulder or something...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on April 13, 2015, 01:39:05 pm
Impressive that a V3 climber can train on a 50 degree board.I regularly flash V7's and can get nowhere on a board. I would have thought a V3 climber's time would be better spent bouldering on a bigger variety of problems/angles but I guess it depends on your background. Maybe you climb 8a sport and don't really boulder or something...

check-out his Power Club entry - he's training for 1-armers and can do them with 2kg assistance) - you might argue he's underachieving?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mr chaz on April 13, 2015, 04:35:22 pm
Underachieving... now there's something I excel in
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on April 13, 2015, 05:28:16 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Easy to see why, anything else at RHS or Cratcliffe you'd recommend?

Not done much else there tbh, sorry!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 13, 2015, 06:01:23 pm
Impressive that a V3 climber can train on a 50 degree board.I regularly flash V7's and can get nowhere on a board.

Ha. I once tried to get up the beastmaker board in the works. I couldn't, even standing in the handholds, much to the amusement of the regulars.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joeisidle on April 13, 2015, 06:28:37 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Easy to see why, anything else at RHS or Cratcliffe you'd recommend?

If you've got a few pads and fancy a change from the steep stuff, Dry Wit in a Wet Country has to be on the list; balancy moves, great highball line and very amenable for 7a
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on April 13, 2015, 08:46:01 pm
Got the cave problem at Robin Hoods 3rd go today, having tried it way too many times last year. Then went and flashed Razor Roof for my 2nd 6c flash. YYFY. A nice haul after a wet week in Font!

Nice one, two of my favourite problems those :-)

Easy to see why, anything else at RHS or Cratcliffe you'd recommend?

Jerry's Traverse at Cratcliffe is piss for 7B if you can campus (and really, really awesome)..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pako on April 14, 2015, 01:25:29 am
I don't mean to piss on your chips but nearly doing a one move wonder isn't doing it, and doing a one move wonder v7 isn't going from being a v3 climber to a v7 climber. For instance I could do all the "dyno probs" at stoney, anything from 6c to 7b, way before I could do any of the "proper" probs.
True, it was more just the feeling of doing well outdoors.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pako on April 14, 2015, 01:31:59 am
Impressive that a V3 climber can train on a 50 degree board.I regularly flash V7's and can get nowhere on a board. I would have thought a V3 climber's time would be better spent bouldering on a bigger variety of problems/angles but I guess it depends on your background. Maybe you climb 8a sport and don't really boulder or something...
Eh, I just enjoy climbing on steep walls. There are no gyms or bouldering within 90 minutes of me, so I decided I wanted a board to get strong. Best way to get strong is get a 50. Getting a less steep board and growing out of it when you get too strong doesn't sound too good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Zods Beard on April 14, 2015, 09:00:47 am
I went climbing yesterday and didn't end the day feeling jaded and frustrated with climbing. I worked my way along the crag, confidence building till I was topping out highballish problems without the usual feelings of terror. My tips were sore and I even got an ankle scrape that stung in the shower. All the things they don't teach you at the wall.

Holmfirth Edge you may be a scruffy place but you warmed the soul of this misery. Silent Running is ace BTW..

I have not been training on a 50 degree board.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on April 14, 2015, 09:12:03 am
Glad you liked silent running such a nice problem. That rock over to the hidden crimp is a lovely move.

What else did you get done?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 14, 2015, 09:12:23 am
That will be your undoing Zod, no wonder you got imprisoned in a wall of glass ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pako on April 15, 2015, 10:36:27 am
Did old mate one move undercling wonder and even got all but one of the moves on a proper climb with a whole 5 moves! Gaskins watch out
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 15, 2015, 11:56:59 am
Nice one :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 15, 2015, 12:36:22 pm
Did old mate one move undercling wonder and even got all but one of the moves on a proper climb with a whole 5 moves! Gaskins watch out

Did anyone see you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mr chaz on April 15, 2015, 02:03:54 pm
 :lol:

(and well done Pako)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pako on April 15, 2015, 02:31:31 pm
Did old mate one move undercling wonder and even got all but one of the moves on a proper climb with a whole 5 moves! Gaskins watch out

Did anyone see you?


I took a video but will only release it upon my death, in order to prove the naysayers wrong and demonstrate a fundamental lesson in human trust and common goodwill.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on April 15, 2015, 05:18:20 pm
The fundamental lesson was learned long ago, that's why he asked for proof  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 16, 2015, 11:27:11 am
Was delighted to hear that YYFY thread starter Jim (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.0.html) got back into the 7s at Caley over the weekend. Effort...

Hope you don't mind me putting this here Jim!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2015, 10:29:59 am
polishing off E1's

Appropriate for Wye Valley!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on April 20, 2015, 12:27:03 pm
After a bloody awful year with health problems I thought that I would never boulder again. Went to the Lakes just after Easter and had a fantastic time at some fantastic venues that one year ago I couldn't imagine ever seeing again,Sampson's Stones,Cold Pike,Dunnerdale.Then back home to grow some skin and then over to Skye.More great weather and the completion of a project I couldn't do even before I was ill  :shrug:
It would appear that there is life in the old dog yet.......Didn't think I would ever feel this happy again  ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on April 20, 2015, 12:42:05 pm
Didn't think I would ever feel this happy again  ;D ;D ;D

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 20, 2015, 12:49:54 pm
Good news!

Dare I ask, are things improving then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 20, 2015, 01:20:14 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on April 20, 2015, 01:24:02 pm
That's a good YYFY that one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 20, 2015, 04:17:01 pm
Superb.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on April 20, 2015, 08:22:15 pm
Good news!

Dare I ask, are things improving then?
Unfortunately not and they won't.But they aren't getting worse either.......... :)
 
Thanks guys for all your quiet support and PM's,got me through some pretty dark times   :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: richieb on April 20, 2015, 08:51:06 pm
Nice one sherlock. Been following the action on flickr. Good skills timing good form with the good weather  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: haydn jones on April 20, 2015, 10:51:45 pm
Had a handful of rope sessions in the last week on peak lime for the first time since my mishap on mecca extension and my confidence of being above the bolts is definitly coming back. Even took a wicked whipper on boot boys by the third clip and came close to the ground but was totally fine. Good for the confidence! Bring it on Mecca extension i will fucking crush you!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on April 21, 2015, 01:01:16 am
Reckon you will skip that bolt on the extension again?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on April 21, 2015, 07:24:02 am
I'm staying in the Grampians for a couple of weeks, and today we went to Taipan Wall for the first time. Just incredible. I managed to scrabble my way up one of the routes on the main face (Invisible Fist, 7b+ ish), which was amazing. YYFY!

It was big, intimidating, and with some reasonable run-outs (by my poxy standards at least) so I was really happy with myself for giving it a proper go and committing properly on the run out sections. I took a whipper on the onsight, went draw to draw to the top, then sent it next go with a bit of a fight.

It's by no means the hardest route, but it feels like a return to form after several months off, and it was just an intensely enjoyable experience. Buzzing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2015, 09:03:41 am
But they aren't getting worse either.......... :)
 

Sound good to me!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: haydn jones on April 21, 2015, 10:26:41 am
Reckon you will skip that bolt on the extension again?
Yea. It's to hard to clip on the link. Think I just got really unlucky tbh. What's that saying... lightning never strikes twice [emoji14]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 21, 2015, 10:44:33 am
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roy_Sullivan
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 23, 2015, 03:48:29 pm
YYFY!
My latest injury is (only) (another) gluteus strain and nothing more serious or spine related. Spent a few days quite worried, but most of the pain responding well to antiinflammatories was luckily a relief.
Yay.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 23, 2015, 10:09:24 pm
YYFY!
My latest injury is (only) (another) gluteus strain and nothing more serious or spine related. Spent a few days quite worried, but most of the pain responding well to antiinflammatories was luckily a relief.
Yay.
Good news.

I thought I'd ruined my back last year after a heavy (for me ) squats session, which left me struggling to walk or function for several days due to back pain , but Mrs rodma knew it would just be my glutes (cos she had experienced the same phenomenon previously, but with heavier weights )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2015, 08:45:47 am
First outdoor session of the year, new prob sent by me, and one by mate. Good to be on rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on April 25, 2015, 08:30:13 am
Yesssss!!!

Ticked off an old sport route project last night. I've only tried it on 5 climbing days, but the first of those was in 2007  :geek: Previous attempts in 2013 saw me rip off the end of a fingertip blasting off the crux!

Had a quick go on Tuesday night and found a new arrangement of fingers in some shallow dimples that makes the crux slabby moves to stab out left into a two-finger pocket considerably higher percentage. This was followed by a redpoint attempt when I got through the crux then fell off reaching for the big hold at the end of the hard bit of the overhanging headwall  :slap:

No mistakes last night, and only minor finger damage from determined finger torquing. It's F7c and only the 5th I've ever done. I'm really, really happy about this and I know that you guys understand. Time to try something a bit harder I think...   

Edit : found the pictures
2013
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QW8AldfNy5w/UbBRHhkzPgI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/i19mIu-akYU/s800/TravFinger.JPG)

2015
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6F6NarDT0-I/VTtEvOOg-xI/AAAAAAAACJk/Ko7sHxDWxB0/s800/upload_-1.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 25, 2015, 09:52:58 am
 :dance1:
Un beau travail.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on April 25, 2015, 10:16:40 am
Nice one ! Those fingers looked bloody sore.......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on April 25, 2015, 10:21:52 am
Proud war wounds!

A little more minor but this has been playing on my mind. On the 8th night of trying and after three weeks of being plagued,I caught the mouse that has been living in my kitchen. All traps that I bought were foiled by this intelligent fellow. I released him this morning in a nearby field. Mrs Donkey and I had agreed that this was the last night of using humane methods. So happy that it ended this way. Long live house mouse (in a field!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 25, 2015, 10:27:56 am
Proud war wounds!

A little more minor but this has been playing on my mind. On the 8th night of trying and after three weeks of being plagued,I caught the mouse that has been living in my kitchen. All traps that I bought were foiled by this intelligent fellow. I released him this morning in a nearby field. Mrs Donkey and I had agreed that this was the last night of using humane methods. So happy that it ended this way. Long live house mouse (in a field!)

Sadly - nearly always if theres one, theres ten...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on April 25, 2015, 04:02:00 pm
I knew that one lived in the garden. I reckon he walked in through the open door on the last bank holiday. Fingers crossed that he wasn't a pregnant she
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on April 25, 2015, 07:02:12 pm
YYFY!!!

Just ticked Stu's Roof!!!! first of the grade as well!! :dance1:  :dance1:

This was my goal for the entire year and I genuinely thought it would take me till December to do it. Probably about 7 sessions over the past 4 months. I wasn't even planning on getting on it today ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 25, 2015, 07:22:20 pm
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on April 25, 2015, 09:16:36 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 25, 2015, 09:20:26 pm
Nice one, Nathaniel. Surely you have done The Keel? You would absolutely crush it you monster!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on April 25, 2015, 11:07:56 pm
YYFY!!!

Just ticked Stu's Roof!!!! first of the grade as well!! :dance1:  :dance1:

This was my goal for the entire year and I genuinely thought it would take me till December to do it. Probably about 7 sessions over the past 4 months. I wasn't even planning on getting on it today ;D

' effort :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on April 25, 2015, 11:43:57 pm
Proud war wounds!

A little more minor but this has been playing on my mind. On the 8th night of trying and after three weeks of being plagued,I caught the mouse that has been living in my kitchen. All traps that I bought were foiled by this intelligent fellow. I released him this morning in a nearby field. Mrs Donkey and I had agreed that this was the last night of using humane methods. So happy that it ended this way. Long live house mouse (in a field!)

Sadly - nearly always if theres one, theres ten...

Apparently you have to release them at least 3 miles away or they'll find their way back...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on April 26, 2015, 07:57:02 am
Thanks guys  :)

(https://vimeo.com/126012788 apologises for the video link  :chair:, but since it has zero editing I don't think it even qualifies for the non-quality thread.)

Nice one, Nathaniel. Surely you have done The Keel? You would absolutely crush it you monster!

I'm currently not psyched by the keel. Partly because I'm at full stretch holding the keel and the chip, so any attempts to get to the chip leaves me with a grazed face (and a bruised ego :ras: ). I know there's alternative beta but excuses excuses excuses
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 26, 2015, 08:20:52 am
No top out no tick ;) more sherioushly looked super smooth there!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 26, 2015, 08:25:53 pm
Thanks guys  :)

(https://vimeo.com/126012788 apologises for the video link  :chair:, but since it has zero editing I don't think it even qualifies for the non-quality thread.)

Nice one, Nathaniel. Surely you have done The Keel? You would absolutely crush it you monster!

I'm currently not psyched by the keel. Partly because I'm at full stretch holding the keel and the chip, so any attempts to get to the chip leaves me with a grazed face (and a bruised ego :ras: ). I know there's alternative beta but excuses excuses excuses
Good work.

I can't reach the chip on the keel, so go to the real keel sloper with right hand, then left hand to chip. It's fine that way. Get it done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 27, 2015, 08:10:30 am
:iagree:
I always thought that matching the lip was about 7A on its own with the rest of it making it up to 7B+
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 27, 2015, 09:00:53 am
Proud war wounds!

A little more minor but this has been playing on my mind. On the 8th night of trying and after three weeks of being plagued,I caught the mouse that has been living in my kitchen. All traps that I bought were foiled by this intelligent fellow. I released him this morning in a nearby field. Mrs Donkey and I had agreed that this was the last night of using humane methods. So happy that it ended this way. Long live house mouse (in a field!)

Sadly - nearly always if theres one, theres ten...

Apparently you have to release them at least 3 miles away or they'll find their way back...

And if they don't find their way back they die from exposure or slowly starve if it's unfamiliar surroundings. Good old fashioned mousetrap is apparently most humane method.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on April 27, 2015, 10:37:50 am
As long as I don't have to look at it and say 'I killed that' I'm ok. It's just like delicious fillet steak. Yum.
Oh yeah, btw, I still have at least one mouse in my house :wall:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 27, 2015, 11:16:40 am

As long as I don't have to look at it and say 'I killed that' I'm ok. It's just like delicious fillet steak. Yum.
Oh yeah, btw, I still have at least one mouse in my house :wall:
Unfortunately, you have only two choices here.

Live with it.

Get all Medieval on their arses.

Living with it carries some serious potential health/fire/loss of personal property issues.

Go pro early and call in the exterminators before you have to re-wire the whole house.
Get under the floorboards and block up every possible entry point with cement. They will just chew through expanding foam.

Get in the attic and change the insulation (they love to nest up there).

Get out the ladder and check the eves.

Etc

Etc

Etc...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 27, 2015, 11:19:38 am
Get a cat?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jim on April 27, 2015, 11:31:45 am
Move house
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 27, 2015, 12:03:17 pm
Move house
And live closer to a climbing wall.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on April 27, 2015, 12:45:50 pm
Back to catching them I reckon. I have a good system now. I'm not on board with killing them. At least if I release them in the field they have a fighting chance.

Nibile. I don't need to live closer to a climbing wall when the grit is on my doorstep  :smart:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on April 27, 2015, 12:48:05 pm
Get a cat?
The only problem with cats is they like takeaways. In that they bring mice both dead and alive home to eat/chase round the house.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 27, 2015, 01:33:53 pm
Nibile. I don't need to live closer to a climbing wall when the grit is on my doorstep  :smart:
Ahahahahahah! It was only a silly reference to Dave MacLeod's advice for progressing in climbing!
Good for you my friend!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on April 27, 2015, 04:37:48 pm
Nibile. I don't need to live closer to a climbing wall when the grit is on my doorstep  :smart:
Ahahahahahah! It was only a silly reference to Dave MacLeod's advice for progressing in climbing!
Good for you my friend!  :2thumbsup:
Sorry for missing the quote. What does MacLeod know anyway; he's not as strong as you is he?!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 27, 2015, 07:12:56 pm
 :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 28, 2015, 07:57:02 pm
Get a cat?

Mash is available for hire and comes pre-instructed in three non-selectable modes.

Sleep mode:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7723/17273803516_978976a0ed_z.jpg)

Cute mode:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7686/17112001588_b1e089bf62_z.jpg)

and Kill It, Skin It, And Leave It On The Doormat/Eat It mode:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8697/17273841626_d6052a09d6_z.jpg)

Please be aware. Your Mash product may switch from one mode to another at any moment.

NEW BONUS FEATURE FOR 2015! SLEEP MODE AND CUTE MODE COMBINED! FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY! CALL NOW TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7711/16681010004_cb5596ce94_z.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 28, 2015, 09:06:53 pm
Awwww!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 29, 2015, 12:43:01 pm
Seconds after the last picture was taken, I tickled that tummy. That's right. Read it and weep! I got to tickle that tummy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 29, 2015, 09:34:05 pm
Just managed to get a mention - and a picture - of Colin Kirkus into an academic history lecture!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 30, 2015, 08:10:23 am
Haha, brilliant. Ours just dropped another whopper of a mouse on our bedroom floor which,  with the lights off I hadn't spotted and nearly stepped on. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 30, 2015, 09:02:32 am
I'm sure in the Cham Sud Ghetto there are plenty about!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on May 01, 2015, 12:11:56 pm
YYFY - We have moved (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25010.msg485900.html#msg485900)

:great:

Now, all I need to do is recover from 3 months of hotel living and remember what climbing actually feels like (ignorning my week [weak?] of puntering around in Cornwall...).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on May 01, 2015, 04:08:53 pm
I have just been offered a Training Contract

I'm going to be a Lawyer! Holy shit!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 01, 2015, 07:50:56 pm
Perfectly timed as the current UK expert has gone off the rails
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TheTwig on May 02, 2015, 01:05:09 am
First indoor session in 8 months without some kind of tendonisis pain from tennis elbow. Onsighted my first 7a and did my first 7b 2nd go ( both slab)  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 02, 2015, 03:34:30 pm
First 7B+ boulder (albeit a dyno) in a very wet Font!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mr chaz on May 02, 2015, 04:16:07 pm
Good job Ross (even though we both know it doesn't count  :tease:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2015, 09:18:38 am
First indoor session in 8 months without some kind of tendonisis pain from tennis elbow. Onsighted my first 7a and did my first 7b 2nd go ( both slab)  :icon_beerchug:

Any advice? I had a day bouldering outdoors on Tuesday, and mine didn't feel as terrible as I expected.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 04, 2015, 09:22:44 am

First indoor session in 8 months without some kind of tendonisis pain from tennis elbow. Onsighted my first 7a and did my first 7b 2nd go ( both slab)  :icon_beerchug:

Any advice? I had a day bouldering outdoors on Tuesday, and mine didn't feel as terrible as I expected.

Boulder outdoors (I know it's not as feasible often - but more variety of movement and holds etc..)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 04, 2015, 09:25:02 am
What I try to do whenever it's dry! Outdoor bouldering - 10 min walk from home, Indoor Boudering - 20 min drive + £! Mug's choice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 04, 2015, 09:30:56 am
What I try to do whenever it's dry! Outdoor bouldering - 10 min walk from home, Indoor Boudering - 20 min drive + £! Mug's choice.

Yes - I should have said convenient rather than feasible.. I know what you meant..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: haydn jones on May 07, 2015, 09:28:32 pm
I can't  remember being more psyched ever than I am now! The limes in. I'm feeling strong. My elbows don't  hurt and i just did all the moves on fat lip!! Best boulder I have ever tried!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Three Nine on May 08, 2015, 08:16:55 am
I can't  remember being more psyched ever than I am now! The limes in. I'm feeling strong. My elbows don't  hurt and i just did all the moves on fat lip!! Best boulder I have ever tried!

But you've got the worst hair in human history!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cjsheps on May 09, 2015, 08:56:09 am
Reclimbed one of my harder problems on the RO board the other day, after injury time off (including over a month of no climbing whatsoever). The fingers are getting more robust by the day, and it finally feels like I'm getting some "oomph" back.

There's still a long way to go, but YYFY!

Also, made plans for a month trip to the Tarn and Verdon the other day - rehab doesn't get better than that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on May 09, 2015, 09:07:50 am
If fat lip is the best boulder you've ever tried, then you really need to go climbing anywhere else
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 09, 2015, 09:11:25 am
I laughed at nigella when he was trying it then I laughed as he told Steve how to do it and he did it in front of him. Then I just carried on laughing all the way home
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 11, 2015, 09:13:18 am
That's crap dense.

You've never laughed in your life.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on May 11, 2015, 01:54:58 pm
(http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh570/claireyoudale/11150939_10153192366596405_602720743272106564_n_zpsfva4wfdi.jpg)

This oil rig just become 100% more awesome
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 11, 2015, 02:16:36 pm
 ;D :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 11, 2015, 04:51:25 pm
Welding looks suspect!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 14, 2015, 12:55:07 pm
managed to overcome an ongoing motivation problem and went bouldering AND fishing AND caught fish before work this morning

fucking yes!

pics/vid to follow as proof, obviously

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on May 14, 2015, 03:25:32 pm
Where did you go, Rubicon?  :fishing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 14, 2015, 03:41:57 pm
nothing so glamorous

had to go to separate venues

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 18, 2015, 11:39:44 am
Elbows are getting better!
Finally isolated the specific move to avoid, that always causes some pain.
Plus, I added 1 kg to my system sessions and weighted bouldering.
Now, after weeks of little training and injuries, it's time to get consistent again.
 :pissed:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 18, 2015, 12:53:16 pm
6 second front lever. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 18, 2015, 01:40:17 pm
which arm?






 ;)

nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 18, 2015, 01:58:07 pm
First one, then the other.....

Cheers!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 18, 2015, 02:27:03 pm
Elbows are getting better!

Mine too. Against my better judgement I went for a sports massage on Friday and he said the muscles in my forearms were "stupidly tight" and really went to work on them. Fuck me the pain! Now though, furst ime elbows have no painful sensations in them since about August.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 18, 2015, 03:02:04 pm
I have heard it said that the best cure for wanker's cramp is to visit a massage expert
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 18, 2015, 03:13:23 pm
He certainly rubbed one out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 18, 2015, 04:10:34 pm
He also reckoned that me mountain biking instead of climbing while injured was probably doing my elbows more harm than the climbing would.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 18, 2015, 05:08:47 pm
Just a little update...
Super motivating lunchtime session! Had to check the training diary to be sure I was using the right weight and not less! Felt very, very strong despite not training fingers specifically for five weeks... It's time to raise the bar with another kg.
Clearly I've been doing some good setting on my board!
... and some time off probably wasn't bad either.
It's a shame I love training so much. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on May 18, 2015, 11:39:18 pm
Went to Anston Stones for the first time and loved it, someone said it'd be my style and they weren't half right! Flashed a 6b and 2x 6c's then managed my first ever 7a+ and rounded off the day with another 7a. Might be time to find a hard local project for the summer I reckon, Forest Rock is calling!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on May 18, 2015, 11:40:16 pm
It's a shame I love training so much.

It's more a blessing than a curse I reckon, especially when its pissing it down like it currently is by me!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on May 20, 2015, 09:01:36 am
managed to overcome an ongoing motivation problem and went bouldering AND fishing AND caught fish before work this morning

fucking yes!

pics/vid to follow as proof, obviously
Effort beast...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 20, 2015, 12:21:55 pm
Hope your first 7a+ wasn't that 6c to the right of bullet denbob  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 20, 2015, 02:12:25 pm
After 18 months of failures, I've finally managed to make a print wirelessly over our office network.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on May 20, 2015, 06:36:13 pm
Hope your first 7a+ wasn't that 6c to the right of bullet denbob  ;)

Had a play on Blue Circles there the other week, blatantly not 7A.

but anyway denbobs - loved the place myself and keen to get back there soon. My sort of climbing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pako on May 21, 2015, 08:57:33 am
Feel like a dream, just did a one armer for the first time... Then I felt good so I tried again and did 2. How is it that something which felt so hard for the past year and a half now feels so easy. Truly the end of an era.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 21, 2015, 09:41:19 am
After 18 months of failures, I've finally managed to make a print wirelessly over our office network.

Bollocks. Not possible, no vid no tick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 21, 2015, 09:43:43 am
Don't worry it's not fucking working today.  :wall:  :wall:  :wall:  :wall:  :wall:  :wall:  :wall: (http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/guns/headshot-suicide.gif) (http://www.sherv.net/)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 21, 2015, 10:08:35 am
LOL. The wireless printer siege. This could be good.  :popcorn:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 21, 2015, 10:20:25 am
With 10 days of rain ahead, yesterday I took the afternoon off and went climbing!
Manged a little project that I had briefly tried some 10 years ago and found the umpteenth link up that after my usual "I'm doing it first go" required the whole afternoon just to manage the moves in isolation...
Going back today!
Brilliant. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on May 21, 2015, 10:51:11 am
With 10 days of rain ahead

Everywhere in the Alps & Points South, but further north looks better per current forecast. Just got an SMS from a mate volunteering for Frankenjura at the weekend.

 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 21, 2015, 11:10:02 am
 >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 21, 2015, 04:07:13 pm
Don't worry it's not fucking working today. 

a pebble must have fallen off; rendering his previous sequence impossible

he could do it fine before that
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 21, 2015, 11:41:35 pm
Jesusfuckingchrist! Stellar stellar form at the moment, ON REAL ROCKZ!
Went climbing again today and absolutely crushed a project that I'd been trying on and off for three years now! I was sure it was 8b when trying it, today it felt... Well... Well...
 :dance1:
Luckily it will rain forever now, otherwise who knows what I could have done!
Now it's back to a few years of training for a two days long peak in three years, baby!
Mega.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on May 21, 2015, 11:45:52 pm
Jesusfuckingchrist! Stellar stellar form at the moment, ON REAL ROCKZ!

:beer2: :dance1: :beer2:

Feels so good to be strong!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 22, 2015, 08:36:02 am
Good work Lore, efficient!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 22, 2015, 10:26:53 am
Good work to YOU MOTHERFUCKER!!!
 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 22, 2015, 10:29:10 am
Don't worry it's not fucking working today. 

a pebble must have fallen off; rendering his previous sequence impossible

he could do it fine before that

It's all about the connies.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 22, 2015, 10:35:42 am
Hope this is good training for your board, Nibile!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 22, 2015, 10:46:21 am
Hope this is good training for your board, Nibile!
Was thinking the same...
 :devangel:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 31, 2015, 08:31:24 am
The Isle of Man TT is finally here!
Oh yeaaaaaaah!
And Ducati's pole at nearby Mugello isn't bad either, with 350,8 kmh top speed record!
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 31, 2015, 10:11:27 am
The Isle of Man TT is finally here!
Oh yeaaaaaaah!
And Ducati's pole at nearby Mugello isn't bad either, with 350,8 kmh top speed record!
 :popcorn:

Awwww shit yeah!
TT and Le Mans.... 2 of my favourite times of the year...

Also, pathed another V7 today. Would've done the V8 finish if the top was dry. :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 02, 2015, 03:38:57 pm
I made a cryptic allusion to this a couple months back, but we got the keys yesterday; so...

WE OPEN OUR SECOND CLIMBING WALL ON MONDAY!

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/688e14e3667d07113a86d1f2bfb07590.jpg)

This one's is a lead wall, so gotta remember how to tie a knot...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on June 02, 2015, 03:45:13 pm
Awesome! Good luck with the new wall :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 02, 2015, 03:54:08 pm
Congratulations Matt, hope it all goes well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on June 02, 2015, 04:32:38 pm
Good work Matt  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 02, 2015, 04:53:45 pm
Nibs if you ever fancy watching the tt in person you'd be very welcome to come and stay at our house.

Good luck Matt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 02, 2015, 06:37:57 pm
Brilliant Matt!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on June 02, 2015, 06:55:49 pm
 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 02, 2015, 06:58:56 pm
Great news Matt. Best of luck!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 02, 2015, 08:58:37 pm
Nibs if you ever fancy watching the tt in person you'd be very welcome to come and stay at our house.
Brilliant! It's definitely on the list, so be ready for my call!
Are you going to watch it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 02, 2015, 10:40:02 pm
I'll watch a bit but will probably mostly diy.

I look forward to the call...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pako on June 03, 2015, 12:33:55 am
Elbows have gone back to normal after constant stretching and pushups, really got a bit scared there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 03, 2015, 10:30:08 am
Brilliant!
Same here, but I still want to be careful.
On another aspect, finally after some major success on ze rock, I'm back on my board. System session yesterday, amazing sensations, added 1 kg and still did not really struggle!
Hey Ho Let's Go!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2015, 10:49:09 am
I'm hopefully on the road to recover with mine too. Fairly intense bouldering last Wednesday, another on Sunday, some weights on Monday, surfing last night (which really made it flare up again last time) and I'm feeling good enough to climb again tonight.

No pain, just a deep seated itchy feeling? (which I'm convincing myself is from things healing!)

I think stretching and vigorous and regular foam roller use is helping. Might even start on fingerboard soon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 03, 2015, 11:37:34 am
WE OPEN OUR SECOND CLIMBING WALL ON MONDAY!
Nearly forgot about it!
Congrats Matt, I got the allusion but didn't want to ask too much!
Glad to know it became reality.
Good luck!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2015, 12:42:52 pm
I made a cryptic allusion to this a couple months back, but we got the keys yesterday; so...

This is so great. A mate of mine who lives in Exmouth was saying he was hoping you will expand, he will be so chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 03, 2015, 05:40:50 pm

I made a cryptic allusion to this a couple months back, but we got the keys yesterday; so...

This is so great. A mate of mine who lives in Exmouth was saying he was hoping you will expand, he will be so chuffed.
Exmouth is in line for a big new wall of it's own by the end of next year.
The South West is beginning to wake up.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2015, 06:06:12 pm
Wish NE Scotland would. Area is crying out for a dedicated bouldering facility, nearest are AR2 and TCA.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 03, 2015, 06:16:50 pm
WE OPEN OUR SECOND CLIMBING WALL ON MONDAY!
Nearly forgot about it!
Congrats Matt, I got the allusion but didn't want to ask too much!
Glad to know it became reality.
Good luck!

And I only just spotted it. Big congrats Matt. Bold move, best of luck with it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on June 03, 2015, 06:37:22 pm
Where will it be Matt? I think I've operated the Google wrong. :chair:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 03, 2015, 07:07:10 pm
Thanks all!
We're taking over a council built wall in Paignton. It should complement our bouldering wall in Torquay. It's a non-profit(ish) set up for us, but good for the Bay.

It's an Entreprise wall with 18 lead lines and a reasonable selection of features. Enough to get some of our setters excited anyway.
Two years old and closed for the past year thanks to cuts.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 03, 2015, 07:58:34 pm
Interestingly, exactly the opposite of what happend to Ratho.

Hope you got a good deal. We've got rotting unused leisure facilites up here that the council want a fortune for.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: casa on June 04, 2015, 02:20:23 pm
Been at my fighting weight of around 14.5st for over 15yrs now. Stepped on the weighing scales last night and came in at <12st. I'm 44 and havent been at this weight since my mid 20's.
Feeling well strong on the board.
And this without actively 'being on a diet'. Just really stopped eating shit ready meals in work & cut down on the cakes
woohoo
time to set a climbing goal for the summer, 7C anyone
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 04, 2015, 02:26:22 pm
 :2thumbsup:
This kind of body changes, that happened gradually over a longer period, are the ones that last.
Well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 04, 2015, 02:29:20 pm
Finally the kids have reached an age where I can, without murder being done by Ms OMM-2-B; arise with the sparrows and depart for a skin shredding sesh upon the Moor.

Moor (sorry) importantly, today was my first "real" session in almost two years!

So I went straight to Saddle Tor and failed miserably to even scratch the surface of the traverse...

After admitting defeat (for today), had the most fantastic few hours on the endless "making shit up as I frickin feel like" problem over on Bone hill.

Solo Dawn raids really are what makes life worth living.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 04, 2015, 02:45:03 pm
Brilliant Matt. Very pleased to read that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on June 04, 2015, 03:16:35 pm

Solo Dawn raids really are what makes life worth living.


Nice. Really looking forward to this. I'm a morning person, but kids still young and need looked after whilst Mrs T_B recovers after an inevitably interrupted night. Can't wait 'till I can sneak off at sparrows' in cool temps :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 04, 2015, 03:59:19 pm
Solo Dawn raids really are what makes life worth living.

I've got an up and coming mixed blessing. Mrs is going to be unemployed as of 1 August which, although a bit of a burden on the finances, will mean she will be organising kids  and I can occasionally get up and out at sparrow's and get a spot of climbing or surfing in before work, which I haven't managed since arrival of no 1. Morning sun on east coast is especially good, as cool of evening often means condensation and grease on rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on June 04, 2015, 11:56:02 pm
Minor but I led another E2 tonight. One that I'd fallen off in the past and was somewhat wary of the rematch, so was pleased it went well.  Swiftly put in my place by having to rest seconding another E2 though, but it's a great route and now on the ToDo list :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on June 05, 2015, 07:15:30 am
Nice Mr Line.

Also Matt - hope the new wall goes well!

:-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on June 05, 2015, 08:08:37 am
In lieu of a like button, well done to casa and Matt!! Effort chaps! :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 05, 2015, 08:12:54 am
Nice one Matt! And Chris too.... And Señor Line.. ;)

I had partial success on Jericho Road yesterday arvo. Did the problem, but started two moves in... Wasn't expecting to do it so was just working it from standing... Then ran out of beans. Next time.. ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on June 05, 2015, 08:20:15 am
And Slackers...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on June 05, 2015, 08:58:57 am
In lieu of a like button, well done to casa and Matt!! Effort chaps! :clap2:


See how easy that was

Ain't gonna be no rematch like button
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 05, 2015, 09:37:08 am
Went out yesterday night, second time in a row that the barmaid at the local pub offers me my beer.
YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 05, 2015, 12:05:21 pm
max props to all my brothers riding the YYFY train
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on June 05, 2015, 12:13:06 pm
max props to all my brothers riding the YYFY train

Ditto. Can we have a button for that ...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 05, 2015, 12:18:47 pm
like +1
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on June 05, 2015, 12:35:41 pm
I've blagged a space , last minute like, to Pabbay and Mingulay. I'm frantically packing whilst trying not to leap around my living room shouting "bring it on!"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2015, 12:47:00 pm
Get in. Hope the weather co-operates. Take fishing gear in case.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on June 05, 2015, 12:50:20 pm
Awesome! I'd be doing the same.

Congrats everyone else too.  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on June 05, 2015, 01:03:10 pm
I've blagged a space , last minute like, to Pabbay and Mingulay. I'm frantically packing whilst trying not to leap around my living room shouting "bring it on!"

Get in Dan, glad you're coming. Don't worry i've not started packing, I think I can just put the wardrobe into the haul bag. easy. Pack some wellies or waterproof boots and a dry bag. You'll thank me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on June 05, 2015, 01:06:37 pm
You off this weekend guy? Enjoy, if the forecast is anything like down here you've timed it perfectly. I'll be feeling jealous whilst analysing x-ray scattering data like a g.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2015, 01:14:46 pm
Whisky is easier to carry than beer!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on June 05, 2015, 01:24:52 pm
You off this weekend guy? Enjoy, if the forecast is anything like down here you've timed it perfectly. I'll be feeling jealous whilst analysing x-ray scattering data like a g.

Hopefully it'll be okay for the week, bit of a royal fucking tomorrow so Donald might postpone crossing till sunday. Enjoy the science merk.

Whisky is easier to carry than beer!


Yep on it, any whisky suggestions for the discerning punter whilst in Oban?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 05, 2015, 02:50:32 pm
You could get it straight from the Oban distillery? Even do a tour.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on June 05, 2015, 07:16:01 pm
I remember liking the standard Oban 14 y.o. - a typical fresh and fruity coastal malt (broadly like Clynelish).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on June 06, 2015, 12:56:15 pm
Ticked another V7 today. :)
Weak Ape Test Zone at The Wing Cave.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cjsheps on June 06, 2015, 01:05:05 pm
Just got my house contract for my move to Madrid in September: YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 06, 2015, 05:18:52 pm
I remember liking the standard Oban 14 y.o. - a typical fresh and fruity coastal malt (broadly like Clynelish).

Highly regarded,if that's your thing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joel182 on June 07, 2015, 08:56:31 pm
Sent the Green Traverse for my first 7A on Thursday! (Don't worry, Shark, no heels)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 07, 2015, 10:40:38 pm
Nice one! Good first 7A
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tregiffian on June 08, 2015, 01:21:51 am
Back after my Dupitrens op. Sunshine sea and good mates......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 08, 2015, 09:16:42 am
All go OK?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 08, 2015, 12:03:27 pm
It seems that I can't help climbing well at the moment. And that is quite shocking because I can't moan about anything.
Went to the Dolomites this weekend, and on steep, burly problems I felt like at home. I managed to flash a few 7's including two 7c and was very close to doing 8a when usual Summer storm stopped play.
Great great great condition, great group of friends, great everything.
"Tests are encouraging..." I joked while driving North on Friday night.
Ondra must be shitting himself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tregiffian on June 08, 2015, 01:01:55 pm
100%  thank you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 08, 2015, 01:32:34 pm
100%  thank you.
:icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 12, 2015, 10:03:17 pm
Check out this for cross training.
These lads have been training with us for a while and they're not bad climbers now too!

http://www.torquayheraldexpress.co.uk/SAILING-Tennage-brothers-Fin-Dan-Armstrong-win-RS/story-26672289-detail/story.html#IpG3MtwGigK1Wcdj.03


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on June 12, 2015, 10:18:07 pm
Got my second 7b ever on Thursday night at Cheddar. My last was 5 years ago. Back of the net...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 12, 2015, 10:25:07 pm
Got my second 7b ever on Thursday night at Cheddar. My last was 5 years ago. Back of the net...

Still Waters, I guess? A great route.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on June 12, 2015, 10:37:59 pm
Yep it was. Amazing route, worth all of its stars unlike so many others.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GazM on June 13, 2015, 07:54:00 am
Good effs Shurt. Was that thurs evening? Looks like a good route. We were on Shakin like a Leaf next door, my 1st visit to cheddar for years and a cracking evening.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 13, 2015, 09:38:19 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXRdLgCKcDk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on June 13, 2015, 08:27:20 pm
Good effs Shurt. Was that thurs evening? Looks like a good route. We were on Shakin like a Leaf next door, my 1st visit to cheddar for years and a cracking evening.

Yep, that was me. Great evening to be out, almost too hot to start with. Shakin like a Leaf is a top route.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on June 14, 2015, 01:47:07 pm
Put an old project to bed on Saturday. The Circus V6 FA. Last move: off balance, low percentage, pogo dyno from very wide compression.

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00003/modified/686140656.jpg)


And today, ticked another V7. Pearl Necklace. Found this one hard! 8 sessions all up. Couple weeks ago dabbed a spotter on the last move. Then yesterday, fell off the top hold (photo - this move is crux for me). Then did it today maybe 5th go.

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00003/modified/686141331.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on June 15, 2015, 08:17:27 am
Effort yooth! And good arrows Shurt also...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on June 16, 2015, 12:33:53 pm
Nice once Jack, problems look awesome!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 16, 2015, 01:07:13 pm
Repelled by rain; started drizzling just as I reached crag last night, so spent time platforming out landing and conceiving beta for a project I'd previously dismissed as being too dangerous. Now just need 2 plus spotters (one harnessed in), 3 big pads and some good connies, and a hearty cup of MTFU.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on June 16, 2015, 04:53:40 pm
Sounds interesting! Peak?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on June 16, 2015, 06:10:01 pm
Repelled by rain; started drizzling just as I reached crag last night, so spent time platforming out landing and conceiving beta for a project I'd previously dismissed as being too dangerous. Now just need 2 plus spotters (one harnessed in), 3 big pads and some good connies, and a hearty cup of MTFU.

Torridon? Sounds awesome !
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 17, 2015, 09:50:43 am
Aberdeen grot? Can't be Torridon, no death midges mention!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 17, 2015, 10:51:59 am
This is one of the nicest bits of rock I've found on the Aberdeen Coast. A band of granite (? tbc) with an almost desert patina like surface. Only took mincing along the edge of a gorse field and climbing down a fisherman's rope to get there!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 17, 2015, 06:54:52 pm
If you havent got ticked by Auguat I can come up to spot/nab the first ascent  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on June 18, 2015, 04:47:08 am
1-4-6.5  Boom. I'm getting less shit at campusing.

PB.  I will do 1-4-7 someday-maybe this summer... :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Three Nine on June 18, 2015, 07:24:17 am
As a man desperately trying to do 1-4-5.5 on massive rungs, im encouraged by your success
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 18, 2015, 07:46:54 am
If you havent got ticked by Auguat I can come up to spot/nab the first ascent  ;)

If it's not done by August you are welcome to a shot!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on June 18, 2015, 05:32:37 pm
1-4-6.5  Boom. I'm getting less shit at campusing.

PB.  I will do 1-4-7 someday-maybe this summer... :)

I can do 1-4-7, does this mean I should jump on the Mandala now?  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on June 18, 2015, 05:52:44 pm
I can do 1-4-7, does this mean I should jump on the Mandala now?  :lol:

Yes!!  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2015, 10:58:05 am
You've ticked it by proxy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 19, 2015, 12:04:59 pm
You've ticked it by proxy
I can do 1-5-8 with 23 cm spaced rungs. Can I take the tick for New Base Line then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 19, 2015, 12:42:07 pm
Only if you can do the splits as well
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rosmat on June 19, 2015, 12:55:00 pm
As an indicator of just how irrelevant this stuff is (or just how shit I am at bouldering):

I can do 1-4-7 on 18mm edges spaced at 22cm......

....but I only climb 7B absolute max.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 19, 2015, 01:13:44 pm
You've ticked it by proxy
I can do 1-5-8 with 23 cm spaced rungs. Can I take the tick for New Base Line then?

Only if someone who has done NBL does the same as you. Sorry, but that's the rules.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 19, 2015, 01:20:43 pm
Only if you can do the splits as well

Is that easier with very short legs?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on June 19, 2015, 01:23:31 pm
Yes but you need to careful you don't crush your nob.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on June 19, 2015, 04:25:44 pm
You've ticked it by proxy
I can do 1-5-8 with 23 cm spaced rungs. Can I take the tick for New Base Line then?
Why not just go crush it instead :shrug:

As an indicator of just how irrelevant this stuff is (or just how shit I am at bouldering):

I can do 1-4-7 on 18mm edges spaced at 22cm......

....but I only climb 7B absolute max.
You're just over-achieving at training. 

I agree it means F%^& all to showing how hard you can climb, but it can show relative weaknesses which is why I'm training them.  Of all of the training/technique/strength stuff, Raw pull strength is my weakness, so campusing and 1-armers. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on June 19, 2015, 05:30:21 pm
As an indicator of just how irrelevant this stuff is (or just how shit I am at bouldering):

I can do 1-4-7 on 18mm edges spaced at 22cm......

....but I only climb 7B absolute max.

 :off: I'm not sure I should notice these things, but your 147th post was about 1-4-7. That shit turns me on.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 19, 2015, 09:21:55 pm
Can't do 1-4-7 or a 1 armer at the moment but still scraping up stuff outside. Might have to do some training to catch up with you Lore, while the midges are out in force!  :whip:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on June 20, 2015, 11:08:03 am
About 200 people came to my film premiere last night and, to put it mildly, their response exceeded my expectations!

Absolutely buzzing still.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 20, 2015, 11:50:12 am
Congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on June 20, 2015, 03:19:26 pm
Nice one Cheque.  Congratulations. It looks great.

I just had lunch in my local and Scott Walker was sat a couple of seats away with his cap on having a quiet pint with a friend.   SCOTT WALKER! :wub:  8) 





Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on June 20, 2015, 03:47:08 pm
Sorry, I've no idea who Scott Walker is  :-[

Anyways Cheque - nice to hear you had a big turn out. A brilliant end to what's be a long story followed via power club. Well chuffed for ya.

 :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on June 20, 2015, 05:17:52 pm
Nice one Cheque!

For Kelvin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9j4CqMwadE

One of my heroes, It'd make my day too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 20, 2015, 06:51:58 pm
I think you'll find The Sun Ain't Gonna Shine to be more topical round these parts.

Well done Mr Cheque.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on June 20, 2015, 07:17:35 pm
Good job on the edit Mike, must have been a massive undertaking.

I was there enjoying the show last night. Oh and well done on the opening talk. Speaking in front of so many people would have terrified me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 20, 2015, 09:17:45 pm
so spent time platforming out landing and conceiving beta for a project I'd previously dismissed as being too dangerous. Now just need 2 plus spotters (one harnessed in), 3 big pads and some good connies, and a hearty cup of MTFU.

Another 15 minutes platforming, one pad, no spotters and in spite of humid conditions and midges, MTFUed and job done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 20, 2015, 10:29:03 pm
 :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on June 21, 2015, 08:58:31 am


One of my heroes, It'd make my day too.

I did a quick google and some politician from the States was all I saw... now it makes sense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 21, 2015, 11:22:59 am
so spent time platforming out landing and conceiving beta for a project I'd previously dismissed as being too dangerous. Now just need 2 plus spotters (one harnessed in), 3 big pads and some good connies, and a hearty cup of MTFU.

Another 15 minutes platforming, one pad, no spotters and in spite of humid conditions and midges, MTFUed and job done!

http://vimeo.com/131336572

Mixed feelings about this, disappointed the lower section was easier than I expected, but glad the top is fairly easy, as if I fell after the top good hold I doubt I would walk away. Quality climbing, but I would have thought only 6A/B.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 21, 2015, 11:38:19 am
Nice atmospheric venue tho :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 21, 2015, 12:01:47 pm
Yeah, it's a beautiful spot. Waterfall just round to left that goes into the sea at high tide.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on June 21, 2015, 02:44:38 pm
Good manning up there. Loved the brief a cheval moment at the top.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 21, 2015, 06:58:26 pm
Yeah, was a brief oh fuck moment about then.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on June 22, 2015, 12:43:42 pm
Good job on the edit Mike, must have been a massive undertaking.

I was there enjoying the show last night. Oh and well done on the opening talk. Speaking in front of so many people would have terrified me.

Thanks for coming cha1n  :thumbsup: glad you enjoyed it!

Speaking to loads of people Talking shit to anyone who'll listen just comes naturally to me.  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on June 25, 2015, 09:55:24 am


Another 15 minutes platforming, one pad, no spotters and in spite of humid conditions and midges, MTFUed and job done!
[/quote]

Nice one Chris  :2thumbsup: Gotta name yet?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 25, 2015, 10:41:18 am
Arab Spring. I need to do a small topo for the area once I do the last project. There's now a string of spots along that part of the coast that would form a good circuit, enough for a day, and amazing variety. This is about 5 min walk from the spot I showed andy e last time he was up.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on June 25, 2015, 11:05:15 am
1 x V6 and 2 x V7s today. :)

Jetski Jerks, Stringybark Massacre and Love Gun Stand at Alford's Point. Not a bad day, considering I hadn't eaten all day because I'm getting sick!
Had a session on them all back in summer and didn't feel close to any of them...
Please to finish them off.

Last hard move of Stringybark, just the scary top to go:

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00003/modified/691784067.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2015, 11:11:18 am
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on June 26, 2015, 08:33:17 pm
I've been to my youngest daughter's school fete today. I purchased 2 tickets for the raffle, turns out over 400 were sold. For the first time in my life, one of my tickets was lucky enough to be pulled out the bag. I was speechless! Turns out, I won a £10 gift voucher for a ladies hair salon in town, but the details aren't important. What is important is my raffle curse has been lifted.

Small victories.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 26, 2015, 08:42:18 pm
Shame euromillions big win was last Friday
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 26, 2015, 09:24:32 pm
Up in Val Di Mello with the lass and did some bouldeing this afternoon while she lazed in the hammock crocheting...  No guidebook so just pottered around near remenno (had already done some routes in the morning including the great fun 6c flake crack on the NE face) flashed a few things and then tried this nice highball ish line. Two small crimps, left foot, rock over and stretch to a high gaston - big flakes to traverse  off left. Quite surprised to get it second go.  Now reading the guide in the bar I have found it was the classic Goldrake 6c - chuffed,  the injuries are finally subsiding....  That goes well with my Killer Green belgian IPA!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 27, 2015, 09:41:29 am
I've been to my youngest daughter's school fete today. I purchased 2 tickets for the raffle, turns out over 400 were sold. For the first time in my life, one of my tickets was lucky enough to be pulled out the bag. I was speechless! Turns out, I won a £10 gift voucher for a ladies hair salon in town, but the details aren't important. What is important is my raffle curse has been lifted.

Small victories.

similar scene here - we won a week's family pass for the higher class Virgin Gym just down the road

squeezed in 4 swims with the kids

getting a few marketing calls and texts now though

phoned them myself this morning in a preemptive strike, saying I'd be busy later so would they like to ask me about my thoughts about joining now. much amusement and an offer to remove my number from their list of potential targets
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 27, 2015, 12:23:58 pm
Higher class? That's worse lagers and well they know it. Trying to say it's higher class cos it's smaller indeed! That's like saying Stu Littledavies is a Royal and Barrows is working class!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on June 29, 2015, 02:52:52 pm
Did my first V11 yesterday!
Went to do routes on Portland with the girlfriend...did about 6 up to 6b, then I fancied getting on My Chemical Romance again and linking it into a route...went 5th go (8/9th in total) and then topped the route above it as well.

Think it's a soft one, but harder than the V10s I've done, but still pretty psyched!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 29, 2015, 04:15:48 pm
Nice one Robsons.

A non climbing YYFY - but last week we discovered that a new journal that I largely led in getting set up and have managed for the last 2 years, has been indexed by Thomson Rueters only 20 months after our first paper came out. A big step - meaning we've arrived :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 29, 2015, 11:12:10 pm
Higher class? That's worse lagers and well they know it. Trying to say it's higher class cos it's smaller indeed! That's like saying Stu Littledavies is a Royal and Barrows is working class!

It does have a quiet, subtly lit atmosphere of "I don't need to ask the price" though. I appreciate the necessity of saying something though; just to make sure we all know that you know your way round Sheffield gyms and that you know Ru, Stu and Barrows.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 30, 2015, 08:02:55 am
Yep, everyone's got me at the moment it seems.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on June 30, 2015, 08:55:02 am
Is dense not being allowed to name call but still calling out Lincoln for name calling part of the decline and fall of UKB?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 30, 2015, 08:58:42 am
Dense is still reeling from name call allegations, he wasn't aware it could be name calling when the name was already given in the post before. Nacho spoiled everything the little tortilla like fucker!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 30, 2015, 09:45:24 am
this is exactly the type of witty, eclectic hilarity that will help UKB rise again

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 30, 2015, 09:47:53 am
Aye, more banter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 30, 2015, 03:07:37 pm
I'm not sure. Surely Dense writing about himself in the third person is a new nadir?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 30, 2015, 04:06:09 pm
I assumed it was his social seceratary writing posts on his behalf
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 30, 2015, 04:13:09 pm
I think he has a Social Media Officer now #jesuisdense
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ashtond6 on July 01, 2015, 11:02:38 am
my YYFY is that I just climbed el cap twice in 11 days 

so happy still, its what I got into climbing to do  ;D

So exhausted still that my leading has now dropped about 6 grades!  :w00t:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 01, 2015, 11:31:03 am
 :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 01, 2015, 01:09:28 pm
El where? Isn't that the place where them 2 guys were on the wall for ages? Can't remember their names

Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: metal arms on July 01, 2015, 01:21:08 pm
Tommy & Kevin say hi.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Baldy on July 03, 2015, 03:35:06 pm
I had a steroid injection last week, to try and sort out the remnants of a 9 month 'volar plate injury' to the top knuckle of my little finger, and it appears to have worked! (to some degree)

I've been told to keep off it for 4 weeks, but that three finger climbing is fine.

As a result, I got in an early morning campus board session (three fingers only) and everything feels fine!
Score!  :2thumbsup:

edit: Oh yeah, and I got photo of the week on the other site. Indoors none the less!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on July 03, 2015, 03:37:46 pm
Nice one Archie  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 03, 2015, 04:25:49 pm
Don't get too excited about the steroid yet, it might be short term relief. I really like the photo though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 03, 2015, 04:41:44 pm
YYFY, the "finishers" kind of training is absolutely brilliant.
Fast, heavy, furious routines that leave you mentally and physically exhausted but ready to rip your clothes whenever you raise an arm.
Best value training ever, and the only kind of useful training that I could possibly do with 41 degrees outside and 31 inside.
I want more.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on July 03, 2015, 06:09:01 pm
my YYFY is that I just climbed el cap twice in 11 days 

so happy still, its what I got into climbing to do  ;D

So exhausted still that my leading has now dropped about 6 grades!  :w00t:

Good effort! Which routes?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on July 03, 2015, 08:47:36 pm


So exhausted still that my leading has now dropped about 6 grades!  :w00t:

So what's the excuse gonna be this weekend? Catching up with the girlfriend...  :lets_do_it_wild:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on July 05, 2015, 11:00:29 pm
Just got back from a brilliant long weekend in North Wales, the highlight of which was leading Right Wall.

I've wanted to climb it for so long and it absolutely did not disappoint.  YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 06, 2015, 07:27:10 am
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 06, 2015, 07:42:35 am
Just got back from a brilliant long weekend in North Wales, the highlight of which was leading Right Wall.

I've wanted to climb it for so long and it absolutely did not disappoint.  YYFY!

Well done!

I find it kind of heartening to know that a route like Right Wall can still have the power and presence to excite and motivate,
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on July 06, 2015, 10:24:39 am
Just got back from a brilliant long weekend in North Wales, the highlight of which was leading Right Wall.

I've wanted to climb it for so long and it absolutely did not disappoint.  YYFY!

Well done!

I find it kind of heartening to know that a route like Right Wall can still have the power and presence to excite and motivate,

I agree. Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ashtond6 on July 06, 2015, 11:42:39 am
my YYFY is that I just climbed el cap twice in 11 days 

so happy still, its what I got into climbing to do  ;D

So exhausted still that my leading has now dropped about 6 grades!  :w00t:

Good effort! Which routes?


Virginia into the Trip
then Triple Direct

Great adventure! Had a big storm whilst on Virginia which was fairly terrifying as thunder rolled around the valley
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ashtond6 on July 06, 2015, 11:44:17 am


So exhausted still that my leading has now dropped about 6 grades!  :w00t:

So what's the excuse gonna be this weekend? Catching up with the girlfriend...  :lets_do_it_wild:

haha! none required , psyched for sport now  :ninja:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on July 08, 2015, 01:44:52 pm
Yipee... Another V7 and another V6. Both problems that I've fallen off the last move of so many times.. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on July 08, 2015, 03:28:49 pm
Nice one Jack!  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on July 09, 2015, 09:48:40 pm
Had a little blast at Shaftoe after work this evening and managed to do the sit start to The Long Reach! Wohoo
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 11, 2015, 09:21:43 am
Nice, bit of a hidden gem that. Did you do it via a short slap?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 11, 2015, 11:35:44 am
Finally held on to the jug at the end of Man of Steel this morning :) been a bit of a one week nemesis this - and rounds off a good Blackwell hit this week with Short Problem, Swing Time and MoS \o/

Seeing as I managed two new 7's on Peak lime in the whole of last season that means that either the gradings soft at beginners wall or I'm getting better (don't answer that question - I don't want to know the truth :D )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on July 11, 2015, 02:40:46 pm

Finally held on to the jug at the end of Man of Steel this morning :) been a bit of a one week nemesis this

Good arrows, that's practically a flash by Jericho Road standards.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 11, 2015, 02:55:45 pm
:D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on July 12, 2015, 07:54:25 am
Nice, bit of a hidden gem that. Did you do it via a short slap?
No I didn't, I did it with a mighty stretch. Maybe a short slap would of been easier because it felt like it was miles away!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on July 13, 2015, 12:14:40 am
Minor YYFY, did my first 8th grade route, Militia - 8a+ at Giggleswick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on July 13, 2015, 07:30:14 am
Not so minor that one - nice work!   :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 13, 2015, 08:30:54 am
It is minor given the power-to-weight ratio of the fucker. Come back on here when you inevitably tick 9a Pete!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 14, 2015, 09:29:59 pm
Don't forget he's fucking massive  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 15, 2015, 04:56:44 pm
I keep thinking about these last two months, in which I dedicated myself to the rock, driving to the boulders, packing thousands of kms, refining sequences, drying out holds, nursing flappers, aching muscles and strained joints, to finally climb some of my projects.
Now I feel a great sense of fullfillment, because I know that all the sacrifices I've done, the pain and suffering, were worth because I reached my goals:
I have improved both on the BM and on the static hangs on my board.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on July 15, 2015, 05:32:40 pm
Now I feel a great sense of fullfillment, because I know that all the sacrifices I've done, the pain and suffering, were worth because I reached my goals:
I have improved both on the BM and on the static hangs on my board.

It's the simple things in life that matter
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 15, 2015, 11:23:17 pm
Exactly.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2015, 03:11:24 pm
(https://photos-3.dropbox.com/t/2/AAAwF_An2H8I9aFDJ49bgz4SCG0LIMfvE-bcCoMPYk0xYA/12/195986661/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/20150715_210216.jpg/EKqbxJQBGNMBIAEoAQ/FFaC9OqwlLq2njmJC2iT5WNanbNwHjoaapfGgtGNoXk?size=1024x768&size_mode=2)

Found in my wanderings, no routes I know of on it. Any idea of rock type? South Aberdeenshire.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 17, 2015, 03:19:07 pm
Set to private Chris?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2015, 03:44:58 pm
cocks

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3adj0xx9zxht44/20150715_210216.jpg?dl=0


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 17, 2015, 03:47:24 pm
Is it not just a big pile of schist?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 17, 2015, 03:57:03 pm
I'd say it's grey brown. Possibly brown grey. And stripey.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 17, 2015, 03:59:35 pm
is it stripey rock or is it layers of different coloured rock that together look like stripes?

(I can't see the photo at work)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 17, 2015, 04:54:16 pm
Sorry - knew I'd end up being too technical. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2015, 05:03:00 pm
is it stripey rock or is it layers of different coloured rock that together look like stripes?

Yes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 17, 2015, 05:04:17 pm
Is it not just a big pile of schist?

I don't know, hence the question. I though it looked like stuff on the culm coast, but I realise that's not a rock type.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on July 17, 2015, 06:24:16 pm
Is it not just a big pile of schist?

I don't know, hence the question. I though it looked like stuff on the culm coast, but I realise that's not a rock type.
Looks mostly gneissic or higher grade phyllite.
I'd climb on it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 17, 2015, 06:41:33 pm
Given that most of the South Aberdeenshire coast and anywhere south of the Highland Boundary Fault is made of Devonian sediments I'm stumped... Where was this exactly, so I can bag the first ascents consult a map?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on July 17, 2015, 08:47:20 pm
Given that most of the South Aberdeenshire coast and anywhere south of the Highland Boundary Fault is made of Devonian sediments I'm stumped... Where was this exactly, so I can bag the first ascents consult a map?
Looking closer rather than thumbnail, could be a psammite with lots of deformed quartz veins.

Isn't the Appin Group in that neck of the woods - kind of looks like that?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 17, 2015, 08:54:38 pm
Looks as schist as it comes IMO, just the more compact stuff, I've seen loads of similar stuff on the south aberdeen coast.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2015, 05:18:04 pm
Given that most of the South Aberdeenshire coast and anywhere south of the Highland Boundary Fault is made of Devonian sediments I'm stumped... Where was this exactly, so I can bag the first ascents consult a map?

It's North of the HBF. That meets the coast just north of stonehaven. It's north of muchalls, not far from where we went when you were last up
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 18, 2015, 05:54:36 pm
Ah, so it's North South Aberdeenshire then! In which case aye, it's Dalradian as AndyR says.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on July 18, 2015, 08:44:21 pm
6 weeks HOLIDAYS!! (need I say more...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 18, 2015, 11:09:13 pm
Ah, so it's North South Aberdeenshire then! In which case aye, it's Dalradian as AndyR says.

So psammite then? Thanks not seen anything like it in his coast before. Might try get a rope on it soon and see if there's any gear or holds. If it ever stops raining and tides allow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 19, 2015, 09:36:57 am
Apparently so...

http://www.bgs.ac.uk/lexicon/lexicon.cfm?mediaType=smartphone&pub=GLGT
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 19, 2015, 08:51:13 pm
Cool, cheers for the help guys. Now to just man up and climb the bloody thing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on July 26, 2015, 10:55:26 am
First V8! :bounce:

A pretty easy one and did it in a session but still!
Then fell off the top out of a long and tough V8......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on July 26, 2015, 02:01:54 pm
Nice one Jack!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 26, 2015, 05:55:46 pm
YYFY! Don't care about the time, just glad to finish!!!

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/th_image.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/user/CyLwiki/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg.html)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on July 26, 2015, 06:05:37 pm
Impressive
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on July 26, 2015, 08:43:42 pm
YYFY! Don't care about the time, just glad to finish!!!

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Mobile%20Uploads/th_image.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/user/CyLwiki/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg.html)

You must be super psyched!  :2thumbsup: Superb achievement.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 27, 2015, 08:37:42 am
Does this mean we'll soon be seeing more crap videos of Lancashire's worst 4+s? Well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on July 27, 2015, 03:07:56 pm
Once I grow new feet, it's back to the dank dank quarries. In my absence R-Man has secretly been adding problems.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on July 31, 2015, 04:48:50 pm
A whole month off work now  8)

Plenty of climbing from Wales to Switzerland and Portland to the Peak. The rest of the time is being spent converting to van for the trip to Europe that starts on October.

Psyche is high!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 31, 2015, 05:14:10 pm
Climb as much as you can kelvin, a months not as long as you think it is!  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on July 31, 2015, 05:21:04 pm
Climb as much as you can work on the van kelvin, a months not as long as you think it is!  :great:

 :agree:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on July 31, 2015, 05:41:39 pm
Darn. I'll just have to go a 50-50 split. It's a tough life.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on July 31, 2015, 07:44:43 pm
Darn. I'll just have to go a 50-50 split. It's a tough life.
Depending on the level of conversion, spend some decent time on the van.

Ours took a lot of evenings and weekends to get ready for our font trip, East more than we allowed for, to the point that it was only ready to sleep in about a day prior to setting off, with no time to test any of the systems properly.

It was turn the fridge on, does the light come on, yes, turn it off again.

Anyway, sounds like a decent yyfy.  :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 01, 2015, 06:45:51 pm
YYFY - my tweaked A2 is healed and I managed to get a number of 7A/7B problems done in quick time in the surprisingly quiet and good Città dei Sassi in the dolomites; unfortunately I didn't manage the 7B/7C problem Nibs showed me while he was there - I'll need to come back for that one.

In celebration, I thought I better drag my ass up the 550m gently overhanging alpine choss fest on the Cima Grande that Andy wanted to do. The whole time I just wanted to be back trying that 7B/7C roof problem left of Dolomitenmann.  ;)

Chuffed to bits to have nailed the crux onsight, especially since I thought I was on the slightly easier 7a pitch just before it - no "crux pitch anxiety"!

 ;D

We liked the face so much we went back at the end of the week and also did ISO2000 (worst named route?) which was also hard and very nice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on August 01, 2015, 10:05:22 pm
In celebration, I thought I better drag my ass up the 550m gently overhanging alpine choss fest on the Cima Grande that Andy wanted to do. The whole time I just wanted to be back trying that 7B/7C roof problem left of Dolomitenmann.  ;)

Chuffed to bits to have nailed the crux onsight, especially since I thought I was on the slightly easier 7a pitch just before it - no "crux pitch anxiety"!

 ;D

We liked the face so much we went back at the end of the week and also did ISO2000 (worst named route?) which was also hard and very nice.

Well done, was wondering how you were getting on.  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 01, 2015, 10:23:01 pm
Cheers. Been meaning to send you an email but packing our life up in Chamonix and moving back has been hectic. Will send you a report sometime.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 02, 2015, 10:25:23 am
Brilliant!
And Città dei Sassi is well underrated isn't it?
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 02, 2015, 11:19:48 am
Yeah, I thought it was good. Ended up climbing there 2 more days - in fact, I thought I'd overdone it on the last day as my skin was so thin I was getting sweaty tips and my arms were getting a bit useless feeling. Andy would have annoyed!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 06, 2015, 05:55:16 pm
Tuesday last week I totally unexpectedly got to do a single route at the Gunks; great to experience, however briefly, one of the great, historic crags. Then I drove all the way to Philly and watched a fantastic gig by Iron and Wine and Ben Bridwell (of Band of Horses). Nice!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on August 07, 2015, 12:12:04 pm
This week I've had the most productive week of my fairly short and pretty pathetic sport climbing career...

After 2 hours working the moves a couple of weeks ago this Tuesday I climbed 'Beginners Wall' 7b+ then immediately moved to the neighbouring route 'Lets Get Fossilised' 7c+ and spend the remainder of the evening working out a sequence. On Thursday I returned and stuck the crux, carried on to clip the dodgy clip and gibbered my way through unfamiliar ground to the top.

Go me  :smirk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on August 07, 2015, 03:57:57 pm
Nice one eddies!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 07, 2015, 04:59:43 pm
YYFY - I found a new hard sport project!!!

85 feet, just a hair less than vertical, extremely technical face climbing.  Did all but 5 moves yesterday-1 hand move and 4 foot moves.  48 hand moves and 54 foot moves total... Also perfect training route for my long term goal of To Bolt Or Not To Be.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on August 07, 2015, 05:50:50 pm
YYFY - I found a new hard sport project!!!

85 feet, just a hair less than vertical, extremely technical face climbing.  Did all but 5 moves yesterday-1 hand move and 4 foot moves.  48 hand moves and 54 foot moves total... Also perfect training route for my long term goal of To Bolt Or Not To Be.

That sounds like a nightmare! Did you ever hear of Craig Smith and the anti-slab brigade back in the eighties?

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 07, 2015, 06:24:41 pm
No, I hadn't.  I'll have to go digging.

It is really immaculate technical thin face climbing on glacial polished sedimentary rock with almost every face move imaginable, thumbercling's, a mono crimp (intermediate thankfully), and a dyno to cap it off. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 07, 2015, 07:37:47 pm
Sounds great!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on August 07, 2015, 07:54:12 pm
Sounds great!

My own horror at the potential for such technicality to expose my own fickle form aside, it does sound beautiful!

Now then, pray tell? Interesting to hear it will be a sport route though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 07, 2015, 08:09:20 pm
It's actually an old line originally bolted in 1994, which has sat out there for a long time.  It was reported as a 12b, and is nowhere resembling that grade.  I'd been informed by a couple of very solid climbers that they didn't think it goes. 

It's about 12b/c-ish to the 3rd bolt and a pretty good rest, then you get 4 back to back cruxes that are about v7, v9, v7, and v9 with just enough of a stance to clip and chalk at the end of each sequence, then about 15 feet of 5.11- glory climbing to the anchors. 

http://mountainproject.com/v/spotted-dick/109126517 (http://mountainproject.com/v/spotted-dick/109126517)

I'll post some pics as soon as I get a chance to get and download some. 

I've also been informed that there's a project t the right of it and all of the moves go, but it hasn't been done yet.  Next time I'll get on that as well. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: haydn jones on August 08, 2015, 12:54:56 am
My mental math adds that to about 9a... inless you litrally get a hands off inbetween them boulders
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 08, 2015, 07:58:55 pm
Yeah, it's the hardest route i've been on.  Not sure how ard though.

I'm hopeful that the cruxes will get easier as I refine the perfect beta.  Right now, I can see being able to two hang it in the next 2-3 days on it, but knocking it down to one hang will be a serious step up, and then knocking out the one hang will be really hard. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on August 09, 2015, 10:27:42 am
Actual first V8 today. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on August 09, 2015, 11:42:12 am
Nice one Jack!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 09, 2015, 12:28:51 pm
The Alaskan Meltdown!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on August 10, 2015, 11:26:19 am
Got a new job! Same organisation but position funded till Dec 2017 which is a long term post in youth work circles...  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 10, 2015, 11:27:28 am
Fantastic news Simon; well-done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 10, 2015, 11:59:49 am
 :look: :look: :look:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 10, 2015, 10:49:20 pm
The Alaskan Meltdown!

I can only hope :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 11, 2015, 12:07:27 am
:look: :look: :look:

Jesus fucking christ! The emoticon didn't work! I had the thumbs up one in the preview! I didn't even know this one existed!
 :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on August 11, 2015, 08:17:09 am
Ha! I did wonder what you were trying to convey Lore...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 11, 2015, 08:18:49 am
Ha! I did wonder what you were trying to convey Lore...

:3thumbsup: :3thumbsup: :3thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 11, 2015, 09:37:39 am
 :-[ :-[
Great news Simon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on August 11, 2015, 09:31:15 pm
Just had my second session on limestone and actually managed to get up some stuff!!! :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tregiffian on August 11, 2015, 09:48:20 pm
Those there at the time will be glad to know that Nancy Jones who was airlifted off Pabbay was back on the sharp end today albeit on Cornwall`s friendliest little cliff with her Dad and a yet more elderly chum.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on August 12, 2015, 09:52:24 am
A non-bouldering YYFY but the project 8a before 30 is done (ukb powerclub and cornice regulars will be aware)!

Clipped the chains of PowerPlant last night - what an epic siege it turned out to be! 11 sessions, climbed on the 11th of Aug...

Such a bad idea to pick a power endurance route after 2 years off of routes, with a level of power endurance that I think Tom Randall put as "low, even for a boulderer".

Got pretty emotional at times as in the back of my mind thought it was a pretty easy goal to achieve as I was knocking out 7c+'s a few years ago but in the end, thought I was going to fail (30 on Sunday)! I even considered pre-clipping the second bolt - the shame!

Thanks to the belayers (there were like 8 different ones) and sorry to all the people who came to try PP and decided to sack it off because "that weak southerner is on it again".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 12, 2015, 10:07:22 am
well done, you climbed it really well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on August 12, 2015, 10:29:47 am
Thanks Guy. Thanks for filming the end, wouldn't mind that footage for sentimental reasons if you could send it to me somehow or just upload to facebook, of whatever.

Keen to tick some of the easier stuff off at the cornice now!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 12, 2015, 10:40:47 am
no worries, will get it over to you
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 12, 2015, 10:53:14 am
Nice one. It's all downhill after 30!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on August 12, 2015, 11:10:15 am
Those there at the time will be glad to know that Nancy Jones who was airlifted off Pabbay was back on the sharp end today albeit on Cornwall`s friendliest little cliff with her Dad and a yet more elderly chum.

Brilliant - that's well good to hear! I'll pass the news on to those who don't UKB.  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Schnell on August 12, 2015, 11:14:13 am
A non-bouldering YYFY but the project 8a before 30 is done (ukb powerclub and cornice regulars will be aware)!

Good effort. It's great to see a big goal like this get ticked.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 12, 2015, 11:18:12 am
Those there at the time will be glad to know that Nancy Jones who was airlifted off Pabbay was back on the sharp end today albeit on Cornwall`s friendliest little cliff with her Dad and a yet more elderly chum.

Brilliant - that's well good to hear! I'll pass the news on to those who don't UKB.  :great:

great news, glad she's recovered so well
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on August 12, 2015, 12:44:32 pm
Nice one. It's all downhill after 30!

whoa there buddy, there's pleanty of life left. my best comp results, ticks and trips were all in my thirties and it's not like i wasn't trying hard to achieve through my twenties.

well done cha1n
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on August 12, 2015, 01:18:32 pm
Nice one. It's all downhill after 30!

damn.....I only started doing routes in earnest (i.e. trying stuff I wasn't odds-on to on-sight) when I was 35..... what might have been...... (probably bugger-all improvement really - I suspect my limits are more to do with other demands on my time, mental weakness, and intrinsic physical fragility).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 12, 2015, 01:28:21 pm
Yeah look at Ben, he's gone right down hill lately...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on August 12, 2015, 01:33:02 pm
Great to hear cha1n, nice one  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 12, 2015, 02:01:11 pm
I'm kidding,  hopefully.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 12, 2015, 05:03:55 pm
Nice one. It's all downhill after 30!

whoa there buddy, there's pleanty of life left. my best comp results, ticks and trips were all in my thirties and it's not like i wasn't trying hard to achieve through my twenties.

well done cha1n

Same for me.

And well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on August 13, 2015, 11:48:18 pm
Those there at the time will be glad to know that Nancy Jones who was airlifted off Pabbay was back on the sharp end today albeit on Cornwall`s friendliest little cliff with her Dad and a yet more elderly chum.

That is really good to hear.

Luke.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 17, 2015, 10:20:57 am
After a bollox spring trad climbing badly, to the extent that even mild-mannered cuddly bear Lagers posted that I need to man up, I've finally had the best few days climbing in a long time:

Slate:
Long Distance Runners E3 5c
Tentative Decisions E5 6a **
Short Stories E4 6a ***
Watch Me Wallaby Wank, Frank E4 6a **

Scimitar Ridge:
Chreon E2 5b **
The Roc-Ness Monster E4 6a **
Killerkranky E5 6a ***

Cwm Glas Bach:
Stanage Comes To Llanberis E2 5c *
El Guide Direct E3 5c *
Rimsky Korsakov E5 6a ***

Rhoscolyn:
Mask Of Red Death E3 5c **
Warpath E5 6a ***

Hardest: Warpath, Tentative, Rocness
Most enjoyable: Killerkranky, Rimsky, Red Death
Happy to take lower grades on: most of them.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 17, 2015, 10:31:10 am
That's a quality list of climbing, well in
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 17, 2015, 10:36:00 am
Good effort Fiend. Even if it is that nasty rope wearing gear jangling trad stuff (bleurgh...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 18, 2015, 05:59:43 pm
 :dance1: The lass just got offered a job at Napier Uni - her ideal job for now. She was so disappointed at 17:30 when she had not yet got a call either way (they had said they'd contact by end of play today at the latest, the interview was Friday last week) but her new boss called 15 minutes ago and she's still on the phone now.

YYFY! 

Our relocation to Scotland has been stressful, but now it's all sorted, flat, job, uni course. Sweet!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 18, 2015, 06:12:42 pm
After a bollox spring trad climbing badly, to the extent that even mild-mannered cuddly bear Lagers posted that I need to man up, I've finally had the best few days climbing in a long time:

Slate:
Long Distance Runners E3 5c
Tentative Decisions E5 6a **
Short Stories E4 6a ***
Watch Me Wallaby Wank, Frank E4 6a **

Scimitar Ridge:
Chreon E2 5b **
The Roc-Ness Monster E4 6a **
Killerkranky E5 6a ***

Cwm Glas Bach:
Stanage Comes To Llanberis E2 5c *
El Guide Direct E3 5c *
Rimsky Korsakov E5 6a ***

Rhoscolyn:
Mask Of Red Death E3 5c **
Warpath E5 6a ***

Hardest: Warpath, Tentative, Rocness
Most enjoyable: Killerkranky, Rimsky, Red Death
Happy to take lower grades on: most of them.

Nice one mate, you will have to move to Wales more often  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy W on August 22, 2015, 08:59:39 pm
Finished building a new training wall today, a month after the old one getting shut down. I vowed I wouldn't build another, this is the 8th. But feels good to have my own training facility again. This coupled with getting a new van offsets all the other NNFN's that seem to have beset me recently. :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on August 22, 2015, 09:11:50 pm
Have u just built a new frame and kept the old boards Andy? Or moved the lot, or started from scratch each time?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy W on August 22, 2015, 09:24:16 pm
This time just moved the lot, re built, took about 7 hours, gets easier each time!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on August 22, 2015, 09:51:53 pm
Nice, can't say too much though cos lagers is onto me! :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy W on August 22, 2015, 10:09:34 pm
sounds worrying.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on August 29, 2015, 05:54:44 pm
Just climbed my first f7C whilst warming up for my 7C+ project, and it turns out it was probably soft 7C+ in itself! I feel strong this summer...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 29, 2015, 09:58:22 pm
Did The Long Run at North Stack today - one of the best climbing experiences of my life. Not the hardest route I've done recently, but it was everything I hoped it would be, utterly engrossing and thrilling :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on August 29, 2015, 10:54:54 pm
Y
Did The Long Run at North Stack today

Nice.  Next stop the Cad then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Teaboy on August 30, 2015, 12:16:54 am
Nice one Fiend, BIG tick. Tell us the details, how serious?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on August 30, 2015, 10:46:55 am
How did you manage to get your lard ass up that one  ;)  Good work Matt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 30, 2015, 09:59:32 pm
Cos it's a slab, buttbreath.

I didn't find it that hard, mostly because the route suited me perfectly - just off vertical, continously tricky but positive moves in between good rests, with fiddly but adequate gear. Conditions were perfect and it was unchalked until the end where someone had done The Clown.

I just loved it, it was like being in a dream where everything is exactly how it's supposed to be, with the climb and my climbing. And yes, there WAS a seal watching. No seal, no Gogarth tick.

Serious? Well there is clearly bomber gear at 8m and then again at 30m.... In between it requires some hunting and fiddling and occasionally running it out. Not too serious if you get it right.

Funny how people often highlight the next big challenge. I hadn't really thought about that. Although, I did do Crimson Cruiser in the Moelwyns today, and that was also fantastic. Quite easy and with the best finish in the history of climbing!!



P.S. Forgot to mention that it was pretty interesting for me to get on something that I hadn't really considered before. Most inspirations I have for years or decades (CC I wanted to do since the photo in the old crimson-spined Tremadog guide!)....The Long Run I had been inspired by for a mere week, which added to the mystery I guess.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 30, 2015, 10:30:23 pm
Did The Long Run at North Stack today - one of the best climbing experiences of my life. Not the hardest route I've done recently, but it was everything I hoped it would be, utterly engrossing and thrilling :)

Felt pretty hard to me.... good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 31, 2015, 08:39:01 am
You're too strong though ;). Being fat and weak means most of the weight was on my feet...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 31, 2015, 09:02:25 am
Good work Matt on both routes. That photo of CC always inspired me too. I just never did it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on September 01, 2015, 01:20:52 pm
 Well done Fiend.

Two scortching hot days at Wendenstock, Sonnenkoenig and Spasspartout climbed. Tough, sand-bag grades, scary, sketchy approach, brilliant. Everything I'd hoped for.

Now peeing with rain.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on September 01, 2015, 01:32:29 pm


 Everything I'd hoped for.


 ;D

Saw some of the pics on Facebook this morning. Nice work Duncan.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 01, 2015, 02:33:08 pm
Nice one Dunc, on the list now haha!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on September 01, 2015, 02:53:42 pm
Good effort fiend!

Two scortching hot days at Wendenstock, Sonnenkoenig and Spasspartout climbed. Tough, sand-bag grades, scary, sketchy approach, brilliant. Everything I'd hoped for.
Nice one, any chance you could put your FB photos somewhere us social recluses can see them  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 01, 2015, 09:20:18 pm
Nice one Duncan. Explain the sketchiness.....the photos look quite civilised? Well, sunny at least.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 02, 2015, 09:20:54 pm
Did The Long Run at North Stack today - one of the best climbing experiences of my life. Not the hardest route I've done recently, but it was everything I hoped it would be, utterly engrossing and thrilling :)
Just clocked this. Nice one monster  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 03, 2015, 08:28:44 am
Explain the sketchiness.....the photos look quite civilised?

do you get the camera out when things are sketchy?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on September 03, 2015, 09:29:30 am
Explain the sketchiness.....the photos look quite civilised?

do you get the camera out when things are sketchy?

 ;D

The approach to Vorbau for Spasspartout was no worse than a giant-sized (Cloggy) Eastern Terrace. The Pfaffenhut approach, for Sonnenkoenig, was reminiscent of getting down to obscure parts of the culm coast, on a much larger scale of course. Steep grass and not much solid to hold on to. After a week of good weather it wasn't so bad, any damp underfoot would have made it quite serious.

Andy or I will put together a few photos and notes on climbing at Wendenstock when we get back. It's a challenging place to go rock climbing but the routes look amazing.

 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on September 03, 2015, 09:37:19 am
I heard a story of a certain Alpinist nearly coming to grief on one of the approaches to Wenden. Slipped on the grass and almost went the full distance but landed cat like a few metres below on the slope. It scared me so much I took an axe with me when I went. We retreated from Caminando in a storm. Lots of stonefall... serious place!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=17458
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 03, 2015, 12:45:00 pm
Jericho Road \o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 03, 2015, 01:00:14 pm
Well done beast! Didn't you mean to post that in the "Finally, Finally, Fucking Finally" thread?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 03, 2015, 01:53:19 pm

Well done beast! Didn't you mean to post that in the "Finally, Finally, Fucking Finally" thread?

That's for Shark to start ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on September 03, 2015, 02:06:24 pm
Jericho Road \o/

Found the way at last, well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 03, 2015, 02:43:39 pm
Thank god  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 03, 2015, 02:58:42 pm
Thank god  ;)
+1
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 03, 2015, 06:02:04 pm
Jericho Road \o/

Do some bloody work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on September 03, 2015, 09:04:46 pm
Jericho Road \o/

Well done Tom. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 05, 2015, 10:02:24 pm
Two week family Font trip booked for Easter

get

in
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on September 06, 2015, 09:52:16 am
Easter's early this year - had planned to be there but will still be in BCN till second week of April. Then a whole month in Font... no families... no kids... hopefully no dogs. Or trees. I hate trees. And sand. Fuck it. I'll just come home early.

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 06, 2015, 08:14:52 pm
Easter's early this year - had planned to be there but will still be in BCN till second week of April. Then a whole month in Font... no families... no kids... hopefully no dogs. Or trees. I hate trees. And sand. Fuck it. I'll just come home early.
Brilliant! That's the attitude. Hopefully there won't be any fucking boulders either  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2015, 10:17:20 pm
Minor YYFY, but yesterday was first outdoor routes and probably 3rd time on a rope this year; OS or flash 5+,6b, 6a, 6a+,6a+,6b+,6b. Failed badly on a 6c+, then took a few lobs off a 6c when i was tired at the end of the day, and it was getting a bit warm and sweaty. First lead falls since God knows when!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 07, 2015, 09:11:57 am
Good stuff.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 07, 2015, 11:28:46 am
A month ago I was struggling on E2s. Managed to get my act together for last week on Lundy, (or possibly holiday grades) and had probably the best week of my trad climbing life gradewise - plus got drunk every night. Amazing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 07, 2015, 11:44:02 am
Good place for drinking; there's FA else to do. Looks like you had a great trip.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AJM on September 07, 2015, 10:29:23 pm
Andy or I will put together a few photos and notes on climbing at Wendenstock when we get back. It's a challenging place to go rock climbing but the routes look amazing.

I wrote some nonsense for Duncan to correct..........  :)

http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/wendenstock.html
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 08, 2015, 09:45:19 am
A month ago I was struggling on E2s. Managed to get my act together for last week on Lundy, (or possibly holiday grades) and had probably the best week of my trad climbing life gradewise - plus got drunk every night. Amazing.
Nice one JB, welcome back to tradding.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 08, 2015, 09:52:16 am
You done much on Lundy Matt? You'd be crushing on your current form. Lots of off-vertical stuff and soft grades.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 08, 2015, 10:08:34 am
Did you do the Diamond in a day?

(Spurious objective I made up while there, no hope of achieving, but one of your team could have done it)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 08, 2015, 01:41:01 pm
I guess it took about three hours all told.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Teaboy on September 08, 2015, 01:53:05 pm
soft grades.

I thought the total opposite when I went but I was climbing badly anyway and my experience was limited to nothing above E2
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 08, 2015, 02:09:54 pm
Someone else has said the same today. Either I'm even better than I thought or things are different above E4. On the first day we did Supercharged and Cullinan, both E5, which would get E3 and E4 on grit. I guess conditions can be all over the place on Lundy though, we were lucky in that respect with dry, overcast skies and a cool northwesterly so no condensation.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on September 08, 2015, 02:14:21 pm
Glad you had a good trip. Obviously limestone is your preferred medium but you're not too shabby on the grit so maybe you're climbing well in that style. Did anyone else say it's soft? I've never heard that on the grapevine like I have with Pabbay
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 08, 2015, 02:44:27 pm
Yeah the rock definitely suited me - friction, 3 dimensions, jams, wedgey rests. Doing Supercharged first was a great reminder not to be intimidated by the grade too. So often you're battling your own assumptions not the physical reality.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 08, 2015, 03:39:08 pm
Widespread Ocean of Fear was definitely no soft touch - did I hear it got upgraded? Cullinan did feel pretty steady though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bonjoy on September 08, 2015, 03:58:38 pm
Yeah the rock definitely suited me - friction, 3 dimensions, jams, wedgey rests. Doing Supercharged first was a great reminder not to be intimidated by the grade too. So often you're battling your own assumptions not the physical reality.
*Snort*
(http://tinyurl.com/nbp6xpn)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 08, 2015, 04:59:17 pm
Either I'm even better than I thought

Not possible
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 08, 2015, 05:03:28 pm
Either I'm even better than I thought
Not possible

I'm only as good as your fingers are strong Lee.

Widespread Ocean of Fear was definitely no soft touch - did I hear it got upgraded?

Was it E4? Felt like the biggest E5 pitch of the week for me, but then I did it first so got the full experience. Dirtiest route we did despite it's fame, I guess it must be the aspect. Antiworlds p1 was defo dirtier but we were third team up, and it was one season's nests not lichen. Whilst on the subject, why isn't Antiworlds the most famous route on the island? I guess only cos you can't see it. It's AMAZING.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 08, 2015, 05:27:19 pm
That's very very good, said big nutbrown hare
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 08, 2015, 08:51:22 pm
You done much on Lundy Matt? You'd be crushing on your current form. Lots of off-vertical stuff and soft grades.
Ughhhhhh. I did a couple of decades ago when I just started climbing.....did some nice VSes n stuff.

I don't tend to get on so well with granite - hard, conditionsy, big polished grains that disagree with my soft damp paws. Sounds like you got the conditions spot on. I'll remain skeptical of soft grades, my only recent experience has been in Cornwall, generally nails and chuffed to get up E2/3s clean.

Give us a route / beta list or something...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2015, 06:06:58 pm
I guess it took about three hours all told.

I meant all the routes on the Diamond??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on September 11, 2015, 12:18:23 pm
I think my new job is going to be ace! Only one week in but I'm busier than I've been for a while (in a good way) and fully psyched on the opportunity to get good outcomes for young people in a well organised setting!  :punk: :boxing: :smart: :2thumbsup: :clap2: :yes: :bounce: ;D 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on September 11, 2015, 12:30:21 pm
Doing a job you like is probably one of the best YYFY you can get.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 11, 2015, 12:35:44 pm
I wouldn't know :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on September 11, 2015, 12:50:49 pm
Doing a job you like is probably one of the best YYFY you can get.

Couldn't agree more, I went from a job that made me miserable and ill, but paid well, to a job that makes me bounce out of bed in the morning, but lesser pay means I lead a more frugle existence. Work life balance, very hard to find.

I wouldn't know :(

Chin up! Consolation wad point matey  :hug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 11, 2015, 02:59:18 pm

Doing a job you like is probably one of the best YYFY you can get.

Couldn't agree more, I went from a job that made me miserable and ill, but paid well, to a job that makes me bounce out of bed in the morning, but lesser pay means I lead a more frugle existence. Work life balance, very hard to find.

I wouldn't know :(

Chin up! Consolation wad point matey  :hug:

+1

The frugal bit can be damn stressful too, mind.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on September 12, 2015, 12:13:52 pm
fairly small YYFS, but on Thursday evening I managed to get Timmy Tip Toes at Shaftoe! Got to the crag at 730pm as the sun was setting and managed a dark top out of the climb with bats flying around me. Had a bit of a moment at the top when I couldn't find the holds...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 12, 2015, 01:02:10 pm
Nice. Sounds very atmospheric.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 12, 2015, 01:58:26 pm
Sounds good! Cool looking problem that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on September 12, 2015, 07:48:41 pm
Sounds good! Cool looking problem that.

Its a great problem, I found it quite tough (typical Northumberland sandbag). Walking out of Shaftoe in the Dark with no torch is scary though HAHA!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 14, 2015, 03:58:33 am
I've been working dual jobs trying to start my own business for about 18 months now, and I'm finally going to be quitting the day job and going full time into self-employment as of Oct 1.  So excited to get contracts signed and in place to make year 1 a go. 

A Muerta!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 14, 2015, 06:42:54 am
Allez! Big news.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2015, 09:13:09 am

I went from a job that made me miserable and ill, but paid well, to a job that makes me bounce out of bed in the morning, but lesser pay means I lead a more frugle existence. Work life balance, very hard to find.


Given the way the industry is going up here, I may well be doing similar sometime soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 14, 2015, 10:42:31 am

I went from a job that made me miserable and ill, but paid well, to a job that makes me bounce out of bed in the morning, but lesser pay means I lead a more frugle existence. Work life balance, very hard to find.


Given the way the industry is going up here, I may well be doing similar sometime soon.

I take it morale is still pretty low up the NE?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2015, 11:52:16 am
Aye, not great. Loads of people getting made redundant / told jobs at risk.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-scotland-business-34193720

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 14, 2015, 12:44:52 pm
Aye, not great. Loads of people getting made redundant / told jobs at risk.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-scotland-business-34193720

Not good. Easy to now say it was an overinflated job market now, but that doesn't help much. What's your plan?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2015, 01:47:59 pm
Sit tight and keep my head down! :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on September 14, 2015, 02:10:13 pm
Feel a bit shitty posting this given some folks current uncertainty re. employment but here goes.....
After a difficult 18 months with health problems where I've had to give up driving and so lost a large part of my independence, I've just received a huge and unexpected legacy from a reclusive aunt. So much in fact that the mortgage will be paid off and both Mrs.S and myself can pretty much retire early.
Sorry if this sounds like gloating. I'd swap it all for the return of my eyesight.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 14, 2015, 02:16:18 pm
Feel a bit shitty posting this given some folks current uncertainty re. employment but here goes.....
After a difficult 18 months with health problems where I've had to give up driving and so lost a large part of my independence, I've just received a huge and unexpected legacy from a reclusive aunt. So much in fact that the mortgage will be paid off and both Mrs.S and myself can pretty much retire early.
Sorry if this sounds like gloating. I'd swap it all for the return of my eyesight.
Those are great news and you shouldn't be concerned about being very happy about them! What you're happy for doesn't detract anything from anyone, so enjoy the moment!
Your last sentence says it all, then. Best wishes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on September 14, 2015, 02:41:38 pm
Thanks, Nibs.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on September 14, 2015, 02:51:05 pm
Feel a bit shitty posting this given some folks current uncertainty re. employment but here goes.....
After a difficult 18 months with health problems where I've had to give up driving and so lost a large part of my independence, I've just received a huge and unexpected legacy from a reclusive aunt. So much in fact that the mortgage will be paid off and both Mrs.S and myself can pretty much retire early.
Sorry if this sounds like gloating. I'd swap it all for the return of my eyesight.

I doubt anyone would take that as gloating. Financial security must be a huge relief. Hope everything else pans out too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 14, 2015, 03:11:45 pm
After a difficult 18 months with health problems.......... I'd swap it all for the return of my eyesight.

Mate putting up with what you have makes my woes mild by comparison. Stoked for you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on September 14, 2015, 03:16:53 pm
All things are relative,Chris.i'm fortunate to live in a safe country and feel very lucky generally.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 14, 2015, 06:52:58 pm
Feel a bit shitty posting this given some folks current uncertainty re. employment but here goes.....
After a difficult 18 months with health problems where I've had to give up driving and so lost a large part of my independence, I've just received a huge and unexpected legacy from a reclusive aunt. So much in fact that the mortgage will be paid off and both Mrs.S and myself can pretty much retire early.
Sorry if this sounds like gloating. I'd swap it all for the return of my eyesight.
Those are great news and you shouldn't be concerned about being very happy about them! What you're happy for doesn't detract anything from anyone, so enjoy the moment!
Your last sentence says it all, then. Best wishes.
Indeed, that is the whole point of this thread!!  Not gloating, but sharing in positive experiences.  I'm excited for everyone to experience the positives and for others to see those ups and enjoy celebrating with others.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 14, 2015, 11:46:04 pm
I've been working dual jobs trying to start my own business for about 18 months now, and I'm finally going to be quitting the day job and going full time into self-employment as of Oct 1.  So excited to get contracts signed and in place to make year 1 a go. 

A Muerta!!

Superb!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 15, 2015, 07:06:59 am
Good work, and good luck Sas!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2015, 03:00:26 pm
Indeed, that is the whole point of this thread!!  Not gloating, but sharing in positive experiences.  I'm excited for everyone to experience the positives and for others to see those ups and enjoy celebrating with others.

Sorry for my negativity. Situation is probably not as bad as I'm making out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on September 15, 2015, 04:48:07 pm
Feel a bit shitty posting this given some folks current uncertainty re. employment but here goes.....
After a difficult 18 months with health problems where I've had to give up driving and so lost a large part of my independence, I've just received a huge and unexpected legacy from a reclusive aunt. So much in fact that the mortgage will be paid off and both Mrs.S and myself can pretty much retire early.
Sorry if this sounds like gloating. I'd swap it all for the return of my eyesight.

Sounds like life decided to smile on you after giving you a rough time. Dead pleased for you. It's nice to see the humility in you but it's unnecessary as the other guys have said. Good for you. Best wishes
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 17, 2015, 11:39:19 pm
in the middle of all this trouble with immigrants coming up north, stealing our routes and putting bolts in afterwards - there is some good news

I scored a lava lamp from the RSPCA charity shop today for £4 - and it works just fine

re

fucking

zult

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2015, 12:07:42 am
I need to start work on my prototype lager lamp. I reckon it will sell by the thousand. Ok, hundred. OK, maybe a dozen.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on September 18, 2015, 06:43:39 am
My eldest (8) led his first route yesterday evening. Proud dad moment.
(I'm afraid to say Fiend that it was a head point ascent of a non cutting edge route with pre-placed gear, sorry)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 18, 2015, 07:37:53 am
Back around

 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 18, 2015, 10:18:48 am
When M jnr onsighted his first sport route (aged 6 iirc) he needed both hands to get the rope into a quickdraw. Good job it was a slab otherwise he might have weighted the gear  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on September 18, 2015, 10:34:12 am
in the middle of all this trouble with immigrants coming up north, stealing our routes and putting bolts in afterwards - there is some good news

I scored a lava lamp from the RSPCA charity shop today for £4 - and it works just fine

re

fucking

zult

 :2thumbsup:
Is it any good for lantern sessions?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on September 18, 2015, 10:36:11 am
My eldest (8) led his first route yesterday evening. Proud dad moment.
(I'm afraid to say Fiend that it was a head point ascent of a non cutting edge route with pre-placed gear, sorry)

Go D-Unit, you'll be burning the old man off soon.   :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 18, 2015, 11:24:19 am
Retro yyfy claim.
Watching some deadlifting technique videos yesterday, and then checking my own ones, I found out that while I thought I was deadlifting, I was in reality Romanian Deadlifting.
Stiff legs, high hips and little quads activation.
Big pulling with lats, hamstrings, glutes and erector spinae.
So, my PB of +2BW being made with a RDL, I yesyesfuckingyessed hard, because of course it's thougher than normal DL.
The devil is in the details.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on September 18, 2015, 12:00:00 pm
The DL record holder lifts like that nibs, I thought you'd have known. Says he doesn't know why but always felt easier, the only thing you needed was a stronger back  :no:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 18, 2015, 01:45:44 pm
Ahahahah! And he could probably bicep curl my RDL weight!
On a side note, I would like to let you all know that hill sprints are the dogs' bollocks.
I've gotten back into them, and with lighter shoes and better form, I feel like Bolt.
Only a bit faster.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 18, 2015, 01:57:48 pm
the dogs' bollocks.
...... I feel like Bolt.


Dog's bollocks indeed

(https://tweetweetbang.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/bolt.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 18, 2015, 02:09:48 pm
I feel like Bolt.
Only a bit shorter

fixed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 18, 2015, 04:31:45 pm
Ppppppffffft! What has he done on grit?
And in Parisella's?
And most of all, on my board?
Easy life Usain, setting WR in sprints in front of adoring crowds and making money! But what about measuring wooden edges by 1/10th of a millimeter to check progress?
Tsk, he doesn't know what hard work is.
 :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on September 18, 2015, 08:21:05 pm
Jazz Guitar: II V I Progression in G with Gmaj7, Gmaj6, Amin7, Amin6, D13b5b9. Proper yoga chords in 3/4 with walking bass and Dorian G solo.  (Maybe 7c equivalent?)  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 21, 2015, 09:06:59 am
But can you play jazz flute?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on September 21, 2015, 07:46:21 pm
No
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 21, 2015, 09:06:33 pm

But can you play jazz flute?

That's one for room 101 shirley... Flute is a great sounding instrument - but not breathlessly puffed to fit asthmaticly into some bastardised format.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 21, 2015, 09:23:16 pm
but jazz funk flute is ace

eg.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4k0RmLc63IY

and Herbie Mann of course
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 21, 2015, 09:32:07 pm
That sounds more like funk flute to me... But wouldn't want to flau-n-t my wind credentials...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 22, 2015, 10:36:17 am

But can you play jazz flute?

That's one for room 101 shirley... Flute is a great sounding instrument - but not breathlessly puffed to fit asthmaticly into some bastardised format.

Sorry, obscure Anchorman reference

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_c_ufaxeSTs
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on September 28, 2015, 04:23:35 am
I completed 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell yesterday morning- my partner and I hit our target of 100 pitches each- 1409 metres of ascent. :dance1: It was hard but so much fun and I seem to already be repressing the memories of the lowest points!

Also, the reception of Stonnis continues to exceed my expectations!  :o ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on September 28, 2015, 08:33:03 am
Bloody good effort! I was completely stuffed after 17 easy problems at Torridon yesterday.
But on another YYFY,the midges appear to have sacked it off for the season :wave:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 28, 2015, 10:07:29 am
the midges appear to have sacked it off for the season :wave:

Great! Are you  sure it wasn't just a conditions blip? Need to get there soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on September 28, 2015, 11:47:21 am
the midges appear to have sacked it off for the season :wave:

Great! Are you  sure it wasn't just a conditions blip? Need to get there soon.
Well it's always possible I suppose but  they were pretty bad on Sat. then it was a pretty cold night,an almost frost.Sunday was breezy at times but with zero activity during long periods of still air.
I'll keep you posted :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2015, 10:16:56 am
Yesterday I did something I hadn't done in a while, took an afternoon off from work and went climbing.
Got there, warmed up, spotted my girlfriend on a problem and then went to the project.
Followed my girlfriend's advice and choose a different foothold for the crux, tried the move in isolation and then fired it first go. A ten years long siege was over.
Brilliant. After a brief stop for a slice of pizza not to leave the anabolic window unused (I had climbed a total of three minutes probably in the whole afternoon) we were back home in time for a dinner based on a bucket of "dolce e forte" that went down with a few G&T's. Good times.

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5794/21669231010_945edea29f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/z1Qtrd)dave1 (https://flic.kr/p/z1Qtrd) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5741/21236238463_a8e5534787_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ymzgQt)dave2 (https://flic.kr/p/ymzgQt) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5622/21831133016_2ef177b1be_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/zg9gg7)dave3 (https://flic.kr/p/zg9gg7) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/603/21845416142_569c1e36d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/zhpt8U)dave4 (https://flic.kr/p/zhpt8U) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 01, 2015, 10:19:24 am
Congratulations beast, although I fear a trend of pink headbands may well be soon to hit British boulderers... Now you can stop messing around with this bouldering nonsense and go back to training!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on October 01, 2015, 10:20:32 am
Yes Lore!! Get in!! I'm more than happy for you with this since I know how much it meant to you!

With the pink headband too. I'm claiming that ascent vicariously  ;) :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2015, 10:29:03 am
Is the problem called Dave? The pink headband and UKB hoody is definitely a fierce combination.

Nice one bruvva.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2015, 10:37:50 am
 ;D ;D ;D
Cheers guys! It's long and boring story that problem... And it came out a shitty one too!!! Classic.
Glad to have done it though... Definitely one that I won't go back to (he said waiting for the next Summer...).
Yes, the pink headband is well cool. It saved my ears from falling off many times... It was 6° up there yesterday and windy! Mr. Monolith himself gave it to me and I revel in its awesomeness.
On a side note, yes, now I can go back to training.  :2thumbsup:
And finally yes, the problem is called "Dave was there".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on October 01, 2015, 12:13:32 pm
Ten year siege! Great perseverance skills there Nibs  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 01, 2015, 12:27:28 pm
Ten year siege! Great perseverance skills there Nibs  :thumbsup:

When I think of a siege, I think of an army (or indeed a climber) camped out beside their target for a long period of time, gradually wearing it down into submission.

From what I can surmise about Lore's training regime and how often he gets out onto rock, the military equivalent here is probably more akin to some bloke slapping Nib's face in a pub, and not seeing him again until, 10 years later, a tactical nuke drops on him as he unsuspectingly pops out to the shops.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 01, 2015, 01:35:29 pm
... is probably more akin to some bloke slapping Nib's face in a pub, and not seeing him again until, 10 years later, a tactical nuke drops on him as he unsuspectingly pops out to the shops.
[/quote]

 :lol:

Is it just me, or is no-one mentioning the big grey elephant looking thing in the corner?  :shrug:

Photo 3 shows some pretty clear evidence of prop boulder dabbage, come on Nibs, in this day and age??  [/back around]

Joking aside, good effort! Very minor YYFY for me - it's sunny, I'm finished Uni for the day, my neck isn;t hurting and I'm off to Dumby for a session.  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2015, 01:44:52 pm
Ahhahahahahah!!!
That's surprisingly close to reality indeed! Thanks guys.
Ten years, yes, but the truth is different from what it may seem. I'll try to cut a long story short.
I did the top out many years ago, when there were still fooholds and the left hand crimp was much bigger. Then I spent a few years trying to find out other holds and in the process I started accidentally breaking the existing handholds and footholds so that the topout became mega hard per se.
Then I took a few years to finally identify which holds were actually useful and I came out with a sequence. Broke some more stuff in the process.
Realized that the original line (just the roof) was beyond my wildest dreams and left it for a while. But the bottom part is really cool. So I went back to it and decided to climb it - sadly - as an eliminate, choosing one single foohold of the nearby rock on the right. And that's how I climbed it yesterday.
It's cool because you have to spin 180° from releasing the toehook to lunge for the foothold, that I aptly chose to be the hardest one to use, that is quite higher than the right hand, at chest level more or less. Then it's doable.
Still better this way than chipping something.
Basically, you can climb the thing at any grade from probably 6b to probably >8b depending on what you choose to use for your feet.
So, a kind of Phyrric victory (that would have been a cool name).
There you go, this is the harsh truth about the sad reality. But you can all keep congratulating me because I like it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2015, 02:45:32 pm

I did the top out many years ago, when there were still fooholds and the left hand crimp was much bigger. Then I spent a few years trying to find out other holds and in the process I started accidentally breaking the existing handholds and footholds so that the topout became mega hard per se.
Then I took a few years to finally identify which holds were actually useful and I came out with a sequence. Broke some more stuff in the process.

This is the downside of getting ridiculously strong; you end up snapping everything.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2015, 03:09:32 pm

I did the top out many years ago, when there were still fooholds and the left hand crimp was much bigger. Then I spent a few years trying to find out other holds and in the process I started accidentally breaking the existing handholds and footholds so that the topout became mega hard per se.
Then I took a few years to finally identify which holds were actually useful and I came out with a sequence. Broke some more stuff in the process.

This is the downside of getting ON ridiculously strong SHITTY ROCK; you end up snapping everything.
Fixed that for you. But thank you nonetheless.
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 01, 2015, 04:32:42 pm
Effort Beast \o/

Sendtember moves onto Rocktober.. (Groan)..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on October 01, 2015, 04:58:14 pm
Effort Beast \o/

Sendtember moves onto Rocktober.. (Groan)..

I'll raise you..... Oaktober

Hello?

Hello?


 :tumble: :tumble: :tumble: :tumble:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 01, 2015, 05:06:08 pm
Effort Beast \o/

Sendtember moves onto Rocktober.. (Groan)..

I'll raise you..... Oaktober

Hello?

Hello?


 :tumble: :tumble: :tumble: :tumble:

:D we possibly both need puntering :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2015, 05:16:13 pm
 ;D
Hadn't noticed it...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2015, 07:10:39 pm
Ahahahahahahahahahahahah I just climbed a project on my board! It was a mix of surprise and nonchalance, like "Oh fuck I've done it!" and "Oh yeah I've done it, so what?"
I love this shit goddammit.
 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Name suggestions?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on October 01, 2015, 07:24:32 pm
Ahahahahahahahahahahahah I just climbed a project on my board! It was a mix of surprise and nonchalance, like "Oh fuck I've done it!" and "Oh yeah I've done it, so what?"
I love this shit goddammit.
 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Name suggestions?

What about 'so what'?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2015, 07:27:04 pm
Sold. Have a point.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 01, 2015, 07:43:02 pm
Unprecedented psyche levels floating around UKB at the moment! Strong!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 01, 2015, 08:19:31 pm
Unprecedented psyche levels floating around UKB at the moment! Strong!
Wait for a feroucious predator to get up a tree and then we'll see true psyche!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 01, 2015, 08:38:30 pm
Tiger willow?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on October 03, 2015, 08:33:07 pm
a none climbing yyyfy
spent all week on a course as large animal rescue specialist in hampshire. started work at 0800 today and at 0801 a call came through for a horse had kicked its foot out through its horse box and was now stuck. successful rescue and a horse saved.   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on October 04, 2015, 04:35:10 pm
A climbing YYFY, Got the Grouch at Brimham yesteday and today had a few hours at Hepburn and managed to drag myself up A Northern Soul and Titanic Arete! Pretty good weekend!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on October 04, 2015, 07:07:42 pm
A climbing YYFY, Got the Grouch at Brimham yesteday and today had a few hours at Hepburn and managed to drag myself up A Northern Soul and Titanic Arete! Pretty good weekend!!

  :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: I remember being so happy relieved when I successfully flopped my body onto the top of the grouch. Good work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TheTwig on October 09, 2015, 02:18:33 pm
Had a YES, YES, FUCKING YES!!! training session this afternoon. Screw all of that incremental progress shit on the fingerboard, somehow managed to set PR's in 4 grips on my second fingerboard session of the training cycle, essentially 'skipping' 2 or 3 sessions to get to where I am. Looking forward to the winter! : ) (the top purple point was today)

(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b326/racsojuno/Screenshot_1.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 09, 2015, 03:19:08 pm
Anyone want run a book on time to first injury? £5 on 6 weeks for me...  (i.e. Listen to your body,  don't just push on because it looks nice on your chart)

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Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GCW on October 09, 2015, 03:48:23 pm
A climbing YYFY, Got the Grouch at Brimham yesteday

The Grouch is excellent...... and frustrating.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on October 13, 2015, 12:47:09 pm
I have my psyche back ;D

After about 18 months of not been all that arsed about climbing.
I had 4 session in a week last week and I am gutted that I have plans tonight and cant meet some mates at the wall.
 :dance1:

Now I just need the grit to be called
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on October 13, 2015, 04:54:44 pm
At fuckin last  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on October 14, 2015, 10:05:31 am
At fuckin last  ;D
tell me about it and just in time for spain.
Simon moved out though so lacking a lead belayer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 15, 2015, 12:56:40 pm
Painful on tops of forearms yesterday (possibly from shoddy technique on campus board on Monday) but had a hearty cup of MTFU and went to wall last night anyway. Had a reasonably good session (2 1/2 hours or so) and arms actually feel better today than yesterday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 15, 2015, 06:52:44 pm
My Mrs got a permanent teaching job in Newtown Aycliffe today! So I'm on the move again, time to build a nest (and a board hopefully!) in County Durham!  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on October 15, 2015, 07:10:24 pm
Nice one!

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Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: thekettle on October 15, 2015, 08:50:50 pm
Nice one Mike, have a grand time there, hope you find yourself a new bowderstone!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 15, 2015, 10:36:07 pm
Gis a shout when you're settled in beast, always keen to hit the rock from Durham side!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on October 19, 2015, 03:03:30 pm
Yyfy of the day. Had my medical at work and they did a grip strength test! Apparently i have a strong grip and am exactly equal on right and left hand! Its the little things that can make a day great :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 19, 2015, 09:00:08 pm
Cheers Kelvin, John and Andy_e. Will certainly be keen to get out once relocated properly, which is hopefully going to be in the new year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 23, 2015, 01:44:55 pm
Climbed another project on the board! Six session, going from barely doing the moves in isolation, to... barely doing the whole problem!
Now, on with the next one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on October 23, 2015, 03:13:37 pm
Nice one Nibs. Set something harder next time... :-D

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Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 23, 2015, 04:20:25 pm
Nice one Nibs. Set something harder next time... :-D
;D
I was tempted but then I decided that this Autumn and Winter will be dedicated only to existing projects, with no new problems added!
Unfortunately, having a little memory and a big ego I thought I had fewer things to do, but checking the logbook I keep finding problems that I haven't done, and each time I think "Fuck me, why did I set this?"
A couple of them will be really challenging.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on October 23, 2015, 04:24:25 pm
In the words of Bill and Ted... "Most excellent!"

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Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on October 24, 2015, 09:06:37 am
So I've got the Fear Factory's scariest 10 problems as a goal. And so far I've ticked off 6 of them with only the hardest AND scariest left.
Just ticked off the one with the worst landing and the highest............

2000 Light Years From Home V5
So fucking amped when I topped out...

Housemate put it up 15 years ago and this is only the 2nd proper ascent (dude did cheat finish and did easy left exit...)
Ended up doing 10 laps on it so we could film it.....

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/770225844.jpg)

7/10... :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 24, 2015, 09:50:58 am
Are you sure that's still bouldering?  ;)
Well done!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 24, 2015, 01:40:51 pm
That looks quality! And I agree with nibs  :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on October 24, 2015, 09:09:15 pm
Looks awesome. Respect.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 26, 2015, 10:19:47 am
10 laps on it too! Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 2 Tru on October 26, 2015, 11:51:08 am
I have been puntering around for years with numerous 7a sport projects left half done up and down the country with no real understanding on how to get better.

This year I had some coaching with Robin O'leary and spent time mining the depths of UKB training knowledge and finally sorted myself out. I sent Rubicon first go on Sunday, 3rd of the grade sent this year and now feel keen and ready to try something harder. Luckily I've got a two week sport climbing trip next month to Turkey!

Thank you for answering all the silly questions, standby for more to come.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on October 26, 2015, 01:33:34 pm
After 5 years of chronic lower back issues, I've finally managed to be put forward for an MRI. This is a major YYFY and hopefully might lead to a route to a fix of sorts. :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 26, 2015, 01:49:16 pm
Good luck brother!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on October 26, 2015, 08:26:06 pm
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/20395_10153643265046203_1008092216928304949_n.jpg?oh=2cd2b9b8103684a992c6ec39deec6fee&oe=56CBD7C3)

 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 26, 2015, 08:51:50 pm
Well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 26, 2015, 08:58:13 pm
Whoop!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 26, 2015, 09:26:40 pm
quite right too, Cheque
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 27, 2015, 07:15:40 am
Truly due!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2015, 09:33:03 am
Well deserved.

Out of curiosity, was this your first full length feature?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on October 27, 2015, 01:40:02 pm
Cheers everyone!  :hug:

Well deserved.

Out of curiosity, was this your first full length feature?

Yep. It's my fourth film- two short ones that are on my Vimeo account and a half-hour one I made in 2010 that's way too shit for public consumption but is what got me psyched for making climbing films.

Stonnis was meant to be a little tester film to start me out after I'd got a decent camera and computer and had time on my hands due to injury. It didn't turn out that way!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 27, 2015, 01:53:44 pm
Great work, psyched to see next project.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 29, 2015, 01:09:49 pm
Climbed another board project the other day. Three fucking years trying it. Now I have all the really hard ones left.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on October 29, 2015, 03:04:44 pm
Climbed another board project the other day. Three fucking years trying it. Now I have all the really hard ones left.

Great work Lore  8)

Waiting to get back on mine. It's a little sharp; I prefer sponge:

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5819/21952029454_842904e5b4_z.jpg)

http://boards.fool.co.uk/do-you-like-sponge-i-do-cos-im-not-allowed-9990348.aspx
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 29, 2015, 04:27:30 pm
 ;D
Cheers Dave, it's been another surprise. It only took two sessions, after three years of training. It became doable when I finally managed to get a hold as a crimpy undercling instead of as an average pinch.
Go figure.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on October 29, 2015, 08:35:46 pm
;D
Cheers Dave, it's been another surprise. It only took two sessions, after three years of training. It became doable when I finally managed to get a hold as a crimpy undercling instead of as an average pinch.
Go figure.

Yes, great effort  :yes:  That sounds fantastic, as though there's been a quantum shift. Suddenly, out of "nowhere" you reach a little further.

This YYFY column often captures the pure essence better than "significant repeats" or some other arbitrary Wadship.

We really could do with that YYFY T-shirt! Where do we order? Mine's a large.

Hands up all those who agree  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 29, 2015, 08:38:34 pm
Belated YYFY from earlier this month:

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5642/22582164885_7c434067aa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ApvuSr)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on October 29, 2015, 08:49:19 pm
 :sick:










Kidding. Congrats!  :hug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on October 29, 2015, 08:59:39 pm
I'm sorry I can only picture Colin Firth in that role!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 29, 2015, 10:52:52 pm
Congratulations Will!
 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on October 30, 2015, 12:42:39 am
Congratulations Will and ...?

You kept that quiet! Fantastic.

Great photo too. :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Three Nine on October 30, 2015, 07:16:11 am
crikey you are punching several stone above your weight  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on October 30, 2015, 08:44:17 am
Bloody hell,I always thought you were a bloke......
Congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2015, 10:20:47 am
I'm still fucked off the entire UKB wasn't invited :)

Congrats again mate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 30, 2015, 10:30:32 am
Well done Will and MrsWill

I notice there was a delay between the event and the posting... were you deliberating between the YYFY and NNFN thread? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 30, 2015, 12:00:26 pm
Ouch.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 30, 2015, 12:18:40 pm
;) based on reflection of my own wonderful marriage ;)

(please MrsTT - if you ever come across this post - the ;) indicates sarcasm and humour)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 30, 2015, 12:27:42 pm
You aren't going to  :shag: for a long time my friend. Schoolboy error.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on October 30, 2015, 01:56:13 pm
Congratulations Will.  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 30, 2015, 03:48:26 pm
I wondered if that was going to make it on here eventually will!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 30, 2015, 05:25:47 pm

Well done Will and MrsWill

I notice there was a delay between the event and the posting... were you deliberating between the YYFY and NNFN thread? ;)


Speaking as Mr third-time-lucky(?)...

Good luck Will et Will's Boss and congrats!


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Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 30, 2015, 05:34:09 pm
Minor yyfy, contract seems like it will be extended 6 months, basement crack should be climbable tonight and someone attractive and female wants to spend time with me. Smashed my existing time on the run home and it felt easy. Strong week!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 30, 2015, 05:36:47 pm
Minor YYFY?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on October 30, 2015, 06:39:47 pm
Minor yyfy, contract seems like it will be extended 6 months, basement crack should be climbable tonight and someone attractive and female wants to spend time with me. Smashed my existing time on the run home and it felt easy. Strong week!

calling Duncan female is pushing it

Sounds like a decent week :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 30, 2015, 06:59:57 pm
Congratulations Will and Daisy?


calling Duncan female is pushing it

 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 30, 2015, 08:50:53 pm

Will and Daisy


Was a bicycle made for two involved at any point? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on November 01, 2015, 09:20:19 pm
Managed to drag my unfit carcass around the Lancaster half marathon today. Was hoping to beat my time from last years Keswick half, but a year and a half of not running at all, combined with a dodgy shoulder issue a few weeks into my hastily prepared training regime meant I failed to beat it! Official time on the website was 2 hours 2 mins, but I was late to the start line (was actually the last person to get going) so according to my running app on my phone I just sneaked under two hours. I'm happy enough with that, time to plan the next one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on November 02, 2015, 07:07:45 am
Haha weird one. Received the 2016 Best of Boulder calendar from Germany in the mail today... That I didn't buy... Thank you Simon Carter.

Jakob Schubert on the front cover doing Meadowlark Lemon.

(http://i.imgur.com/bJS6XQr.jpg)

And then fucking me for January! Ahahahaha

(http://i.imgur.com/OHZsGQz.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 02, 2015, 07:19:54 am
 ;D :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 02, 2015, 08:00:20 am
Good shot that one,  he must now how to use a camera this Simon guy.

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on November 02, 2015, 08:40:01 am
Not if meadowlarks anything to go by, terrible photo. Makes any of that Northumberland guys look normal
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Pako on November 02, 2015, 09:18:46 am
Not if meadowlarks anything to go by, terrible photo. Makes any of that Northumberland guys look normal

never change dense
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 02, 2015, 09:34:32 am
Not if meadowlarks anything to go by, terrible photo. Makes any of that Northumberland guys look normal

I don't think that's one of his?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on November 02, 2015, 10:07:33 am
Not if meadowlarks anything to go by, terrible photo. Makes any of that Northumberland guys look normal

I don't think that's one of his?
Nope not Simon's. 3 Aus shots in there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 02, 2015, 10:51:48 am
Haha weird one. Received the 2016 Best of Boulder calendar from Germany in the mail today... That I didn't buy... Thank you Simon Carter.

Jakob Schubert on the front cover doing Meadowlark Lemon.

And then fucking me for January! Ahahahaha

Good skills driving that boat! How fast were you going?
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on November 02, 2015, 11:45:05 am
Haha weird one. Received the 2016 Best of Boulder calendar from Germany in the mail today... That I didn't buy... Thank you Simon Carter.

Jakob Schubert on the front cover doing Meadowlark Lemon.

And then fucking me for January! Ahahahaha

Good skills driving that boat! How fast were you going?
 ;D

I'm pretty handy on a wakeboard.....  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 02, 2015, 01:51:52 pm
Haha weird one. Received the 2016 Best of Boulder calendar from Germany in the mail today... That I didn't buy... Thank you Simon Carter.

Jakob Schubert on the front cover doing Meadowlark Lemon.

And then fucking me for January! Ahahahaha

(http://i.imgur.com/OHZsGQz.jpg)

Phew! TFFT! It took ages for the photos to appear, and for a while I thought you meant he'd be doing that for the whole of January ..  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 07, 2015, 02:08:45 pm
Just ordered these beauties for my motorcycle! CNC machined from aluminium and fully adjustable!
(http://avdb-moto.fr/shop/10469-thickbox_default/levier-de-frein-nombreuses-buell-kawasaki-suzuki-triumph-yamaha.jpg)
They will go along well with the new black lowered clip-ons that I also ordered!
Can't wait!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: butters on November 08, 2015, 12:00:41 am
Haha weird one. Received the 2016 Best of Boulder calendar from Germany in the mail today... That I didn't buy... Thank you Simon Carter.

Jakob Schubert on the front cover doing Meadowlark Lemon.

(http://i.imgur.com/bJS6XQr.jpg)


Why does that remind me of a tea towel print?

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on November 08, 2015, 01:04:30 am
Just did 2nd V8. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 08, 2015, 08:22:20 am
nice one

(http://odomcorp.com/ecom_img/original-630-655-v8.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on November 08, 2015, 08:43:36 am
(http://www.driftspec.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/sonny1.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on November 08, 2015, 08:44:23 pm
Spent a rainy Sunday doing my tax return and realised I'd previously massively miscalculated how much I'll need to pay the tax man in January (payment on account type error, I'm such a douche with double-checking stuff). As a result I'm going to be seven grand better off than I'd planned for, which means I'll finally be entirely debt-free by March and providing I remain in my current job have a chunky deposit/get a good mortgage/be in my own nice house by late summer.
To top it all I also noticed that I overpaid a grand and a half in tax from 12/13 which I can hopefully prise back out of hmrc. An indication of how distracted I've been the last few years.. A very profitable day, YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 08, 2015, 08:53:51 pm
I'm due them a grand, so should I just wire it direct to you and cut out the middleman?  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on November 08, 2015, 09:00:50 pm
Peer-to-peer tax bill payments, I can see an opportunity
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on November 08, 2015, 09:14:59 pm
You'll soon be a slum landlord Pete  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on November 08, 2015, 09:44:00 pm
Just in time for the market turning, the generous tax-breaks ending and the mortgages becoming less attractive. Typical of my timing when it comes to money. No shooting financial fish-in-a-barrel for me  :wall:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on November 09, 2015, 12:27:12 pm
I've just had my offer accepted on the house ive been after... Its got a 40' long garage!!  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2015, 12:36:23 pm
Perfect for the gold stretch limo.

Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 09, 2015, 05:49:57 pm
What a waste. You never do more than four moves.
 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 14, 2015, 03:19:24 pm
Guess who was chosen to translate in Italian Ben's biography?
My-fucking-self.
The two greatest climbers of their generations, the dominators of the international field, tied together again by a book. What a story.
 :smart:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 14, 2015, 03:38:40 pm
 :bow:  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on November 14, 2015, 06:27:52 pm
sì, sì , sì, cazzo

(I used google to translate that, so it's probably wrong!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GazM on November 14, 2015, 10:29:44 pm
Good day in Torridon today.  I finally got up Malc's Arete after a harrowing 6 year siege, and RichieB did the 2nd (?) ascent of Dan V's Phoenix Nights. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 14, 2015, 10:49:20 pm
Effort gaz and richie!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 15, 2015, 01:13:51 pm
sì, sì , sì, cazzo

(I used google to translate that, so it's probably wrong!)
It's quite accurate to be honest!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 21, 2015, 09:32:28 pm
I touched the rock today and it felt gooooood :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 21, 2015, 11:17:59 pm
Was that at Whitehouses?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 22, 2015, 09:52:23 am
Almscliff.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on November 22, 2015, 09:56:32 am
Nah, selected Brimham spots. Lots of it was in good condition, although some parts should still be avoided
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on November 27, 2015, 10:31:23 am
3rd V8. :)
Another one loads of people still take V9 for.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 27, 2015, 11:04:59 am
3rd V8. :)
Another one loads of people still take V9 for.

I'd take 7B+ for it if I was you
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on November 28, 2015, 12:08:20 pm
What a Saturday.

Picking up used toilet paper with Nalle, Patxi, Hazel Findley et all.

The yyfy is for the free beer later. At the moment, I feel dirty.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on November 28, 2015, 01:45:51 pm
After too much work, lurgy and indoor training, and far too little climbing, I wandered up to a local area after work yesterday to try a 7C that I did years ago when I was younger, stronger and a better climber (and it still took me 2 sessions to do then).

30 Mins later, I topped it out.

Chuffed and surprised.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 28, 2015, 04:49:59 pm
Went climbing this afternoon for the first time since April 2013.  It felt great  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 28, 2015, 10:14:10 pm
Nothing like a bit of +ve reinforcement..

Been feeling a little bit gloomy recently.

Anyway, I've just been to the park for a session of bar work - one-arm comedowns and levers - in the dark, in the rain, been putting it off all day. Great session though.

On the way home I find a tenner stuck to the pavement, and I'm thinking I'll treat myself to some cosy crap from the local Morrison's.  8)

I get there to find that all the pies, fries and chicken wings have been reduced to 9p a portion!

I'm tucking in right now.

Ree-zult  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 28, 2015, 10:16:22 pm
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on November 29, 2015, 12:18:22 am
Nothing like a bit of +ve reinforcement..

Been feeling a little bit gloomy recently.

Anyway, I've just been to the park for a session of bar work - one-arm comedowns and levers - in the dark, in the rain, been putting it off all day. Great session though.

On the way home I find a tenner stuck to the pavement, and I'm thinking I'll treat myself to some cosy crap from the local Morrison's.  8)

I get there to find that all the pies, fries and chicken wings have been reduced to 9p a portion!

I'm tucking in right now.

Ree-zult  :dance1:

Hopefully you didn't blow the whole tenner on those three food groups...?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on November 29, 2015, 07:29:47 am
Went climbing this afternoon for the first time since April 2013.  It felt great  :)

Good to hear Ben. When are we getting on Path to Rome? I need dragging across it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 29, 2015, 08:23:59 am
the local Morrison's.

I get there to find that all the pies, fries and chicken wings have been reduced to 9p a portion!

I don't know how that shop keeps going

they must be making a right mess of their stocking - they almost always have loads of stuff reduced for quick sale
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 29, 2015, 08:56:39 am
Sounds like they need a just in time chicken wing stocking solution - Shirley time for the LagerSharpeFish arms retailing wing to move into?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 29, 2015, 10:37:28 am
we're a bit busy at the moment with the run up to Christmas and all
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 29, 2015, 11:12:00 am
Did you have any Black Friday deals?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 29, 2015, 11:19:28 am
Went climbing this afternoon for the first time since April 2013.  It felt great  :)

Good to hear Ben. When are we getting on Path to Rome? I need dragging across it!

How about next Autumn?  Let me know next time you're here and we can nip to the wall...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 29, 2015, 12:05:12 pm
On the way home I find a tenner stuck to the pavement, and I'm thinking I'll treat myself to some cosy crap from the local Morrison's.  8)

I get there to find that all the pies, fries and chicken wings have been reduced to 9p a portion!

I'm tucking in right now.

Ree-zult  :dance1:

Hopefully you didn't blow the whole tenner on those three food groups...?!

27p

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/767/23271877482_3707a330ae_b.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on December 06, 2015, 05:58:38 pm
Another V8.
Savage at the Villas. Tough for the grade and done 2nd go in 2nd session. Took more goes to do the V5 warm up... :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TheTwig on December 07, 2015, 12:19:18 am
Nothing like a bit of +ve reinforcement..

Been feeling a little bit gloomy recently.

Anyway, I've just been to the park for a session of bar work - one-arm comedowns and levers - in the dark, in the rain, been putting it off all day. Great session though.

On the way home I find a tenner stuck to the pavement, and I'm thinking I'll treat myself to some cosy crap from the local Morrison's.  8)

I get there to find that all the pies, fries and chicken wings have been reduced to 9p a portion!

I'm tucking in right now.

Ree-zult  :dance1:

This is the best YYFY I've ever read. Ha!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on December 07, 2015, 02:05:33 pm
The weather gods smiled on me and Almscliff was dry on Sunday for the first proper day on grit I've had this year. Got 2 7A's; Dolphin Belly Slap and the low Crucifix Traverse both in a few goes, a promising start to the season!

Then I headed off in to Leeds for a surprise Christmas present, which turned out to be seeing Alt-J, which was an incredible gig from a great band.

Then its off to Geyikbayiri on Friday! YYFY

(No 9p food in Morrison's though :()
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Rocksteady on December 07, 2015, 02:53:42 pm
Just back from a great week in Font. Minimal rain, went to a bunch of areas hadn't seen before. Apremont is incredible. Mostly shut down on everything just like my last trip, but did manage to tick my first Font 7A in Font, and did Duel dans la Lune at 95.2 which was a class line. So psyched for training now to be better when I go back!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on December 07, 2015, 04:10:13 pm
Minimal rain

Jealous! Went in Easter and we were mostly rained off. Apremont is ace, but then again there aren't many place in Font that aren't
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 10, 2015, 11:52:55 am
Climbed another long standing board project yesterday.
From not being able to do the moves in isolation, to complete domination in the space of a couple of years only.
Huge disappointment though because it means it can't be as hard as I thought in the beginning.
Anyway, the most important aspect is that I've had another positive confirmation about the possible effects of a strong power recruitment before climbing.
Yesterday I did a barbell complex of Romanian deadlifts, cleans and snatches focused on speed, and then a series of high jumps.
I was absolutely on another level of core tension on the board. Still needed three goes and a foot placement adjustment.
Brilliant. Best winter ever. Who needs rock? This, is the real thing. Kind of. We all know the BM is the real thing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on December 10, 2015, 06:47:55 pm
.. did Duel dans la Lune at 95.2 which was a class line..

Great problem
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 12, 2015, 01:29:22 pm
First climbing trip in nearly three years booked - Siurana for a long weekend in March with Sean off here.  :bounce:  A good incentive to get training and continue to shed these extra lbs I've put on.   :weak bench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on December 12, 2015, 06:30:44 pm
Nice FD hope you enjoy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: finbarrr on December 12, 2015, 06:44:07 pm
Just back from a great week in Font. Minimal rain, went to a bunch of areas hadn't seen before. Apremont is incredible. Mostly shut down on everything just like my last trip, but did manage to tick my first Font 7A in Font, and did Duel dans la Lune at 95.2 which was a class line. So psyched for training now to be better when I go back!

not wanting to rain on your parade, but which problem did you do?
duel dans la lune gets 6c
http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html (http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html)

the purple line in the following link:
http://bleau.info/95.2/13.html (http://bleau.info/95.2/13.html)

pieds dans la lune is an eliminate 7a/+.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 12, 2015, 07:45:11 pm
I think he said he did a 7A and also did DDLL
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: finbarrr on December 13, 2015, 08:05:11 am
I think he said he did a 7A and also did DDLL
Just back from a great week in Font. Minimal rain, went to a bunch of areas hadn't seen before. Apremont is incredible. Mostly shut down on everything just like my last trip, but did manage to tick my first Font 7A in Font, and did Duel dans la Lune at 95.2 which was a class line. So psyched for training now to be better when I go back!

not wanting to rain on your parade, but which problem did you do?
duel dans la lune gets 6c
http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html (http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html)

the purple line in the following link:
http://bleau.info/95.2/13.html (http://bleau.info/95.2/13.html)

pieds dans la lune is an eliminate 7a/+.

 :oops:
 :sorry:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 13, 2015, 06:58:53 pm
Went to see my folks this afternoon and took my camera plus a lens mount adapter that I'd got from eBay for £12 on a whim.

Cue a great afternoon with my Dad, getting psyched by the old camera gear he hasn't touched in ages. It felt like when we used to play with Lego when I was a kid. :D

Leaving with 4 quality vintage Pentax lenses (plus three old 35mm bodies and a non quality vintage lens) was an added bonus!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 13, 2015, 06:59:28 pm
.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on December 13, 2015, 07:31:00 pm
Went to see my folks this afternoon and took my camera plus a lens mount adapter that I'd got from eBay for £12 on a whim.

Cue a great afternoon with my Dad, getting psyched by the old camera gear he hasn't touched in ages. It felt like when we used to play with Lego when I was a kid. :D

That's really nice
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2015, 10:40:05 am
plus three old 35mm bodies

Was an ME Super among them? My first ever SLR, and still gets occasional use. I have a prime 24mm I use with it and it's a great lens.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Rocksteady on December 14, 2015, 11:23:49 am
I think he said he did a 7A and also did DDLL
Just back from a great week in Font. Minimal rain, went to a bunch of areas hadn't seen before. Apremont is incredible. Mostly shut down on everything just like my last trip, but did manage to tick my first Font 7A in Font, and did Duel dans la Lune at 95.2 which was a class line. So psyched for training now to be better when I go back!

not wanting to rain on your parade, but which problem did you do?
duel dans la lune gets 6c
http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html (http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html)

the purple line in the following link:
http://bleau.info/95.2/13.html (http://bleau.info/95.2/13.html)

pieds dans la lune is an eliminate 7a/+.

 :oops:
 :sorry:

Yup. Actually did think we'd done Rude Boy at 7A, but then later saw videos and realised we'd done Duel dans La Lune at 6C. Descriptions in the 7+8s book leave much to be desired. Subsequently ticked off Hueco Depart at Apremont, which is given 7A but seemed quite soft. Still, have to start somewhere!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 14, 2015, 12:06:06 pm
Earlier than that Chris. They're all M42 screw-mount ones- a Spotmatic F, some sort of Praktica and a Pentacon.

It was amazing hearing his story of how he gradually upgraded but hung onto the old bodies so he could have ones with B&W film, slide film etc. in available. Mad to someone like me who's never owned a camera with a mirror in, let alone a film! Also sobering was that the stories of decades of slow gear acquisition (to quite a modest level- he never had camera gear that wasn't strictly-speaking outmoded) was underpinned by the financial responsibilities of raising two kids- made me feel a bit bad given that I'm not only one of those kids but that I'm free to splash my cash on whatever gear I like...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on December 14, 2015, 12:24:14 pm

plus three old 35mm bodies

Was an ME Super among them? My first ever SLR, and still gets occasional use. I have a prime 24mm I use with it and it's a great lens.

My dad has got an ME Super. Viewfinder to run rings around many £1000 cameras today.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on December 14, 2015, 12:27:05 pm
I'm free to splash my cash on whatever gear I like...

I'm sure with a little effort you can remedy that.  :lets_do_it_wild:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2015, 02:03:39 pm

plus three old 35mm bodies

Was an ME Super among them? My first ever SLR, and still gets occasional use. I have a prime 24mm I use with it and it's a great lens.

My dad has got an ME Super. Viewfinder to run rings around many £1000 cameras today.

Yup, it dicks on my K7.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on December 14, 2015, 02:10:33 pm
The main thing I don't like about the ME Super is the up and down buttons for shutter speed. A proper shutter speed dial would have bolstered its classic status somewhat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2015, 02:44:28 pm
I quite liked the fact you could do it with your fingers while holding camera with two hands, rather than having to let go with one to pinch a dial, like the older MX had.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 14, 2015, 03:11:38 pm
Back from a great four days in Font for a mates' 40th. Weather a bit dull and drizzly, but climbed every day and the craic was amazing. Some entertaining lastmoveitis...

https://vimeo.com/148883588

https://www.instagram.com/p/_HkIATlYZW/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on December 19, 2015, 09:37:45 am
Ticked Molunk on Tuesday. Absolutely brilliant problem. First new 7C in a while and it only took two shortish sessions - suited me down to the ground though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 19, 2015, 09:38:33 am
Beautiful piece of rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on December 20, 2015, 04:25:39 pm
First climbing trip in nearly three years booked - Siurana for a long weekend in March with Sean off here.  :bounce:  A good incentive to get training and continue to shed these extra lbs I've put on.   :weak bench:

It appears I'll be on this very same trip! Looking forward to it, 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on December 20, 2015, 05:54:57 pm
Grade wise best climbing day ever. Brad pit and silk sit... Happy now after weeks of rain...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 20, 2015, 06:05:41 pm

Grade wise best climbing day ever. Brad pit and silk sit... Happy now after weeks of rain...

Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on December 20, 2015, 06:23:47 pm
 
Grade wise best climbing day ever. Brad pit and silk sit... Happy now after weeks of rain...

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on December 20, 2015, 06:49:19 pm
Sorry to anybody at stanage that heard me swearing and crying everytime i slaped uselessy at the jug....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 20, 2015, 08:00:30 pm
Huge YYFY. Have only flashed one 7A+ before, Andy's opus "The Dark Ark" at Harmer's Wood, which is very much my style. Today I flashed Mark's Roof at Gardom's, which is my complete anti-style. Pulled up to the left hand sloper, got the right hand one, strained everything and slapped the little finger pocket at the top. Just about caught it open handed, juuuuuust about squeeze it to a crimp. Puuuuuuuuul, foot uuuuuuuuuuup. Sooooooo close! At the top I had absolutely nothing left to give.

YYFY!

This was counteracted by a NNFN when, on the last go of the day, I slapped the top of Suavito, feet came off, spinning around, held it, and then promptly dabbed on my spotter before pulling over the top.

NNFN!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on December 20, 2015, 11:14:51 pm
Well done strong young lads. Today I climbed outside for the first time in 11 weeks since tearing my hamstring. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on December 21, 2015, 07:52:22 am
Least its been rubbish weather but :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 21, 2015, 09:02:37 am
First climbing trip in nearly three years booked - Siurana for a long weekend in March with Sean off here.  :bounce:  A good incentive to get training and continue to shed these extra lbs I've put on.   :weak bench:

It appears I'll be on this very same trip! Looking forward to it,

FD on guitar, shurt on piano. Be a good trip ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on December 21, 2015, 09:03:33 am
Huge YYFY. Have only flashed one 7A+ before, Andy's opus "The Dark Ark" at Harmer's Wood, which is very much my style. Today I flashed Mark's Roof at Gardom's, which is my complete anti-style. Pulled up to the left hand sloper, got the right hand one, strained everything and slapped the little finger pocket at the top. Just about caught it open handed, juuuuuust about squeeze it to a crimp. Puuuuuuuuul, foot uuuuuuuuuuup. Sooooooo close! At the top I had absolutely nothing left to give.

YYFY!

This was counteracted by a NNFN when, on the last go of the day, I slapped the top of Suavito, feet came off, spinning around, held it, and then promptly dabbed on my spotter before pulling over the top.

NNFN!

good flash that, must have been a fight.

Don't worry about Suavito, E5 innit, route rules.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 21, 2015, 09:22:38 am
He shouldn't have been standing there. We would have seen you at Suavito but I spannered my foot on the start and had to go home.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on December 21, 2015, 10:15:54 am
Shit spotting innit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on December 21, 2015, 11:10:15 am
Is this what happens when you build a massive board? Gibb thinks he's 20 again and does a finger and you suddenly think you're strong and forget how to use your feet for landing? Next you'll be telling me that PaulB's been a silent partner for years!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 21, 2015, 01:06:41 pm
I cheekily ripped Warb's video from his Facebook page and put it on YouTube so I could share it here. As you can see, its quite a dab.
In fairness to dunnyg, had he not been stood in the exact same spot, doing the exact same thing on two previous tries, this attempt wouldn't have happened. It would have been off to Chesvegas infirmary after helicoptering into that horrible boulder.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgw92zDmh4A
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 21, 2015, 01:41:20 pm
Combined tactics, Puttrell would approve.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 21, 2015, 06:10:48 pm
I think the dab was more than compensated for by the commitment on the previous go. More impressive than a certain diminutive sponsored hero earlier in the day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on December 21, 2015, 06:27:29 pm
Got my first 7B today, was a vague goal for this year and I'm made up to get it. Looking forward to the coming grit season, not had much of a chance to get out yet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 21, 2015, 06:33:17 pm
I think the dab was more than compensated for by the commitment on the previous go. More impressive than a certain diminutive sponsored hero earlier in the day.

Name and shame. The body slam at the start of the video is Dave Warburton, who took about 3 identical falls and gave himself a nose bleed. My falls were of the slap the top, hold it for a moment and then spin out of control missing the pads completely variety.

The funniest thing was Warbs going for one last effort at the end, not fancying the top slap and dropping off in control... right  through the gap in the pads. How we laughed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on December 22, 2015, 05:07:03 pm
Minor YYFY, the guardian thought my picture was good enough to get shortlisted (first one on the page). Never entered a photo comp before. Nice to get a result  :)

It is a very amateur comp mind  ;)

http://www.theguardian.com/travel/gallery/2015/dec/22/readers-travel-photography-competition-december-food-in-pictures (http://www.theguardian.com/travel/gallery/2015/dec/22/readers-travel-photography-competition-december-food-in-pictures)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 22, 2015, 05:57:21 pm

It is a very amateur comp mind  ;)


Quote
Mick Ryan, judge...

 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 22, 2015, 06:07:13 pm
I was wondering if it was the same one...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on December 22, 2015, 06:07:55 pm
it is
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Robsons on December 22, 2015, 08:36:18 pm
Had a good few weeks.
First time in Font (! I know). Just went for things either flash or quick sends: highlight was Onde De Choc for the best problem!- Jacky Godoffe amazingness, but 15 7s ticked overall in the week.
Then, hit the Peak on Sunday and did some quality problems I'd not done before - Deliverance (happy to do this), but up there with this was Help the young Stand - super cool bloc - highball and awesome - had failed on both of these in the past - not super hard, but super fun!
Off to Font on the 27th - cannee wait!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on December 23, 2015, 10:45:08 am
That's a great day by anyone's measure, Help the Young really is class.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on December 25, 2015, 11:45:34 am
Finished off an old highball project I found nearly 2 years ago.
Jumped back on rope to clean it and did all the moves. Didn't have pads with me but thought, fuck it, I'm pretty secure on it. Went first go.:) Did it again straight after. :) 8m right on the money.

Pow soft V5

(http://www.thecrag.com/image/photo/00004/modified/806572827.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 25, 2015, 12:04:29 pm
 :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TheTwig on December 26, 2015, 10:20:35 am
And another  :o from me. That is commitment!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 30, 2015, 09:28:56 am
Although with the help of antihydral, coffee, chocolate, protein shakes, amino-acid tablets, croissants, six pads and two spotters for a 1 meter high problem, it seems that I'm still able to climb on (a very limited number and hyper specific problems on) rock.
 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 30, 2015, 09:43:13 am
How many croissants?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 30, 2015, 09:50:36 am
As many as they brought at the hotel's breakfast buffet.
I am disgusted by myself.
Last year I've found the restaurant in which they make biggest portions of pasta I've ever had. Ristorante Leventina in Bodio, the village down the road from Chironico.
Amazing. Enough to drop a full grade with every dinner.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 30, 2015, 12:46:25 pm

And another  :o from me. That is commitment!

Certainly deserves you being committed...

8mtrs, no pads. Nuts!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on December 30, 2015, 02:49:22 pm
..six pads and two spotters for a 1 meter high problem..

That felt like par for the course for Cresciano / Chironico. I was lucky enough to be on my own, with one small Black Diamond pad.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 30, 2015, 03:03:18 pm
..six pads and two spotters for a 1 meter high problem..

That felt like par for the course for Cresciano / Chironico. I was lucky enough to be on my own, with one small Black Diamond pad.
Ahahahahahahha I was meaning that nowadays I need all those pads even for lowballs! I keep getting wussier and wussier.
But I also had a very minimalist day with just three pads! Only because my friends had left. 
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on December 30, 2015, 05:50:30 pm
..six pads and two spotters for a 1 meter high problem..

That felt like par for the course for Cresciano / Chironico. I was lucky enough to be on my own, with one small Black Diamond pad.
Ahahahahahahha I was meaning that nowadays I need all those pads even for lowballs! I keep getting wussier and wussier.
But I also had a very minimalist day with just three pads! Only because my friends had left. 
 ;D

I definitely would have enjoyed it more with more pads. The landings can be awful and I'm also a wuss.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 31, 2015, 09:49:19 am
 ;D
Next time!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 04, 2016, 11:08:51 pm
First crimp session of the year, added two kilos to my routine! Went from 3 to 6 kilos since June.
Who needs rock?
YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 08, 2016, 01:39:53 pm
Non training related YYFY, after months of researching and rethinking, I managed to get a new full face helmet! Five stars Sharp rating, all green values, bargain price!
Nitro Aikido, in Kenshi graphic.
UK made if you please.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 11, 2016, 04:12:39 pm
Non-climbing related YYFY... just paid off my mortgage.  Currently resisting the urge to swearily walk out of work; admittedly this would be more of temptation if it was summer and Kilnsey was dry.  The resolution I made this morning not to drink mid-week could be short lived even by my weak-willed standards.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on January 11, 2016, 05:09:41 pm
Congratulations. A landmark day for sure. Enjoy pointing and things and saying 'i own that!'
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 11, 2016, 05:32:03 pm
cheers, though it is a reminder of the vast number of minor "handyman" style tasks there are that need doing and I have let slide for months.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on January 12, 2016, 09:08:16 am
Must be something in the air,we paid ours off last week as well :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2016, 09:19:30 am
<<Peers into the distant future>>

Nope, don't see it for a while.

Anyway, well done guys. 1.5 years until no nursery fees, might be able to start working away at ours. Assuming we both still have jobs.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 12, 2016, 09:24:49 am
Time to start building that buy to let empire before the tax changes come in? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on January 12, 2016, 10:54:17 am
Time to start building that buy to let empire before the tax changes come in? ;)

I never had Moose down as a money grabbing c**t?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on January 12, 2016, 11:05:34 am
...... just paid off my mortgage......

Well done that man. I appear to be following a tactic of inflating it away, not actually paying it off. Depressing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 12, 2016, 11:32:33 am
Time to start building that buy to let empire before the tax changes come in? ;)

I never had Moose down as a money grabbing c**t?

Hence smiley - and gentle dig at an Insect Overlord ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 12, 2016, 01:30:19 pm
Time to start building that buy to let empire before the tax changes come in? ;)

I never had Moose down as a money grabbing c**t?

just a c**t dull enough to have no interesting and expensive vices (except a sporadic Scotch habit and a yen for cakes from Betty's). 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 16, 2016, 03:07:32 pm
Sticking the crux of the project for the first time in three years. Nothing else comes close to this shit. Brilliant.

http://youtu.be/R0Ckmgi7fcI
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 16, 2016, 04:12:02 pm
Suspect there will be a few YYFY's today given the minty grit conditions today... Having only a couple of spare hours I headed to Brownstones and styled up Hank's Wall. It's been so near so many times over the last two years but went second go today \o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on January 16, 2016, 04:52:57 pm
Well done TT.

I remember finding Parr's quite hard enough, thank you very much, when I used to go to Brownstones long, long ago.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on January 18, 2016, 01:25:38 pm
Weather on Saturday was so good. First time I've managed to get onto Dartmoor for weeks after a promising forecast ended with us getting rained off.
 
Sent Rippled Wall on first hit, and after spending some time with Mikey Cleverdon & co managed to link the first few moves of The Wave together before the 'monkey paw' hold ruined my skin. 7a outdoors has been my goal for the winter so I'm super exited to get back on it ASAP
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on January 18, 2016, 02:46:55 pm
Tough problem for a first 7A! Good luck!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on January 20, 2016, 11:17:15 pm
Did steves wall and crucifix arete eliminate today, 2 ive never done at the cliff, well chuffed! Not the hardest but ive failed repeatedly over the years. Ace day out in the sun! Bumped into some strong types and got some beta for another problem on the to do list.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 21, 2016, 07:10:55 am
He's back :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 21, 2016, 08:52:15 am
Did..... crucifix arete eliminate today

Good discernment! That's my favourite "advanced warmup" (the SS with no break or crack - getting the "ear" crimp with RH and a very faint pinch on the arete with LH). Always feels tough, so if I do it, I know I'm in decent nick and can move onto my projects with confidence (or at least knowing there are no excuses!). Your next task is to link in by reversing the low traverse!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on January 21, 2016, 11:25:09 am
Oops. Didnt eliminate enough. Standard cliff! Did the hard bit for me anyway. It will remain on the to do list. Chuffed anyway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 21, 2016, 11:39:48 am
Oops. Didnt eliminate enough. Standard cliff! Did the hard bit for me anyway. It will remain on the to do list. Chuffed anyway.

It's Almscliff: you can never start low enough, or use few enough holds!  What was the version you did? And, which problem did you get new beta for? 

I went to 'cliff last weekend, for the first time in at least a year (psyched myself out at every opportunity with thoughts of wind, mud, crowds) - really enjoyed myself repeating old favorites (including the Crucifix Arete Eliminate) - in the mood for another visit and looking for ideas for a new project to try.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on January 21, 2016, 11:44:10 am
Moose is back!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 21, 2016, 11:54:51 am
Aye... weaker and frailer than ever!

(that said, the last few times I've been bouldering with any intent (since autumn), I've surprised myself by doing stuff that thwarted me back when I bouldered a lot more - Screaming Slave, Beauty of Being Numb, Phil's Wall.... hoping for a few mild days to whittle down more of my decade-old tick-list).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on January 21, 2016, 11:59:34 am
Dolphin belly slap into demon wall roof. Nothing majorly new, just had a go and it felt ok. I just eliminated the horizontal break as per the yorkahire grit guide. Should bave known there werwnt enough rules. Going to go back up now i think. Cliff psyche os back. Sat under the bulb and still found that uninspiring, so some things dont change...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on January 21, 2016, 12:16:44 pm
The bulb always felt unfeasible for me (too much leg to get my toe up on the lip).  And, I never had much joy with the problems on the DWR (aside from the basic DWR and DBS) - I can't even do the stand-alone finish of Stu's Roof - its only meant to be 7a/+ but I just can't get my RF on!

Thinking of having a session or two on the 7b/+ on the Virgin (uses the Cherry Falls crimp with LH to slap into crack) - but scared I'll knacker my foot by failing with a heel-toe locked in (as happened a few times before I did the version that just uses the crack).  That said, it'd probably be less painful than falling off Pistol Whip or Jess' Roof (which are two of the few other problems of around that grade that appeal).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on January 21, 2016, 04:05:25 pm
Do it without the heal toe? It goes both ways.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 21, 2016, 04:38:28 pm
The bulb always felt unfeasible for me (too much leg to get my toe up on the lip).  And, I never had much joy with the problems on the DWR (aside from the basic DWR and DBS) - I can't even do the stand-alone finish of Stu's Roof - its only meant to be 7a/+ but I just can't get my RF on!

Thinking of having a session or two on the 7b/+ on the Virgin (uses the Cherry Falls crimp with LH to slap into crack) - but scared I'll knacker my foot by failing with a heel-toe locked in (as happened a few times before I did the version that just uses the crack).  That said, it'd probably be less painful than falling off Pistol Whip or Jess' Roof (which are two of the few other problems of around that grade that appeal).

Give me a shout if you're heading up there - I'd like to have another session on Jess'
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on January 21, 2016, 04:52:23 pm
Id be keen for a do up there at some point if a few are headed up
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 21, 2016, 07:45:34 pm
Id be keen for a do up there at some point if a few are headed up
Only one do? Strong flash.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on January 21, 2016, 10:34:31 pm
Had a good day at Stanage on Wednesday (great weather). Most notable things being a quick ascent of Help the Aged which I was pleased with and a flash of something called Bunny Wailer. The day was almost spoilt by losing my brand new phone (£150) which had no sim in - I'd been using it to take photos with as the camera is good - so I couldn't phone it.
The good karma that is often the climbing community meant that someone found it and got in touch with me and it's in the post. Really good news.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on January 22, 2016, 07:55:38 am
Shurt I think I met you and your mate by crescent arete :wave: glad you found your phone. I once lost my phone at the cliff in the snow, someone posted it back saying they'd chipped it out some ice. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 22, 2016, 09:52:57 am
Had a good day at Stanage on Wednesday (great weather). Most notable things being a quick ascent of Help the Aged which I was pleased with and a flash of something called Bunny Wailer. The day was almost spoilt by losing my brand new phone (£150) which had no sim in - I'd been using it to take photos with as the camera is good - so I couldn't phone it.
The good karma that is often the climbing community meant that someone found it and got in touch with me and it's in the post. Really good news.

So the FB message was genuine? I thought it was a pisstake.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on January 22, 2016, 05:09:02 pm
Had a good day at Stanage on Wednesday (great weather). Most notable things being a quick ascent of Help the Aged which I was pleased with and a flash of something called Bunny Wailer. The day was almost spoilt by losing my brand new phone (£150) which had no sim in - I'd been using it to take photos with as the camera is good - so I couldn't phone it.
The good karma that is often the climbing community meant that someone found it and got in touch with me and it's in the post. Really good news.

So the FB message was genuine? I thought it was a pisstake.

I know it was a bit crazy being contacted that way but my phone turned up today in the post. Amazing.

Shurt I think I met you and your mate by crescent arete :wave: glad you found your phone. I once lost my phone at the cliff in the snow, someone posted it back saying they'd chipped it out some ice. 

Oh right, were you climbing with the American lady and another bloke? Climbers are a good bunch generally.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on January 22, 2016, 05:20:05 pm
Yes, I was the short pale one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 23, 2016, 03:56:44 pm
Mega YYFY!!!
While out with my motorbike today I found a lost sporting dog, with a few cuts and bruises probably from a wild boar (it's the hunting season).
I managed to grab her and calm her down, then phoned the number on the name tag: turns out she was a close friend of mine's dog! He came over and picked her up! She was so happy!
Success!
Rode home with a huge grin. Good day.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1475/23932965254_e7e2f49806_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CsSGKY)5 (https://flic.kr/p/CsSGKY) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on January 23, 2016, 08:50:12 pm
That's a huge grin fuck I 'd hate see you angry
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 23, 2016, 09:05:26 pm
That's his earnest look  ;D

Dog looks happy.

Well done you, Lore  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 24, 2016, 08:51:59 am
  :beer2:

Happy Birthday DAVETHOMAS90  :dance1:  :beer2:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 24, 2016, 09:11:46 am
 :dance1: :dance1:
Happy birthday!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 24, 2016, 09:33:03 am
He doesn't look 90....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 24, 2016, 12:34:39 pm
It was my birthday yesterday too. Despite sharing many adventures with DT over the years I never knew we shared a birthday. I do look 90.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 24, 2016, 02:17:20 pm
Happy Birthday to all!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 24, 2016, 06:19:03 pm
It was my birthday yesterday too.

DT's is today

he said he wasn't going to do anything, so I thought we could celebrate for him

:dance1:                         :dance1:                      :dance1:                 :dance1:                         :dance1:                      :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 24, 2016, 07:22:33 pm
Happy Poppday!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 24, 2016, 07:31:34 pm
 :icon_beerchug:

Should really be an espresso cup, not a stein...

Nice one Dave, nearly 30 by now I shouldn't warrant  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 24, 2016, 10:50:55 pm
It could be a cappucino with a fuck ton of foam on top? Or Spanish style with whipped cream.... but almost no milk in it of course. :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 24, 2016, 11:05:15 pm
It could be a cappucino with a fuck ton of foam on top? Or Spanish style with whipped cream.... but almost no milk in it of course. :bounce:

Or, in my case, a fuck ton of fine Cognac.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on January 25, 2016, 01:34:21 am
Hey guys, that's amazing xx

 :beer2: Here's to you all!  :2thumbsup:

And Andy, any time you fancy sharing a fuck ton of fine cognac, I'd love to.  ;D

Love to everyone. xx
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on January 26, 2016, 04:17:48 pm
Just had cast removed and in a removable boot now. The wounds look rank but the doctor says they are beautiful (each to their own)
So psyched to try to walk again!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 26, 2016, 04:35:08 pm
Good luck!

Chicks dig scars anyway, or at least that's what I told myself after getting a large scar down my forehead many moons ago!

Ps I have been there myself (car accident left my with above mentioned mangled head, and multiple fractures of femur) and can only advise being patient, but not scared to get yourself walking again. All the best.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on January 28, 2016, 10:34:18 pm
Minor YYFY. After starting a training plan this year I've had some great sessions lately (just indoors). Managed a 7c circuit at the depot 4 times tonight in about 30 minutes.

It makes me think that it is probably fairly soft given I've only climbed one thing over 7b. Or I'm actually climbing much better than I think...

Puts me in a better mood about the last 5 weeks of training before Spain and makes hanging off a fingerboard that bit more worthwhile!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on January 30, 2016, 06:58:10 pm
Managed west side story in between snow today.... Proper nemisis. Awsome... 7c...............
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 03, 2016, 01:27:01 pm
After almost one year and half I finally went back to my friend who's a sport medician to get myself tested again. I had done an intermediate test on march 2015 but it was post knee surgery so it wasn't of much relevance.
Anyway, yesterday it turned out that I've put up two kilos of pure, unadulterated, original Italian muscles.
I've improved in every field of the test, from cellular density, to muscular funcionality, to - obviously - body composition. Fat percentage is the same.
I have more muscles and they also work in a better way.
Plus, I've increased my base metabolism to almost 1900 kcal per day.

YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 06, 2016, 04:09:05 pm
I mended the 21 year old pulse board for a GMC Safari van last night - I have never attempted such a thing

and it fucking worked

I now have a van that drives and can go on the road (a week ago it wouldn't even start)

YYFY!  :dance1:

my handywork (is it art?)
added the blue wire and resoldered the dry joints

(http://i67.tinypic.com/23ib3w7.jpg)

the living beast (when it wasn't raining)

(http://i67.tinypic.com/rarptf.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 06, 2016, 04:16:14 pm
Awesome lagers, it's a  great feeling having a go and finding that it works!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 06, 2016, 04:18:59 pm
Awesome lagers, it's a  great feeling having a go and finding that it works!

especially when it involves a 4.3 litre V6 and 3 tonnes of steel


need to build a new exhaust now

I'm thinking Stella cans and an old hoover hose
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 06, 2016, 04:21:18 pm
Thought you'd moved the van on Lagers?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 06, 2016, 04:25:23 pm
different van - this was Grumpycrumpy's project

now my project
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 06, 2016, 04:39:03 pm
Solder beast  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on February 06, 2016, 05:14:53 pm
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on February 07, 2016, 08:23:09 pm
Boating yyfy. With the river flowing nicely after yesterday's rain we had a blast today. This would have been a frightening stretch with so much water in the past. Lots of practice and confidence meant riding a weir that written guides instruct you to avoid and I once thought impossible and a bit deadly was an utter scream. So good we did it twice :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on February 10, 2016, 06:33:16 pm
I'm walking again with no crutches. Been out of plaster for just over two weeks. Got a significant limp but physio helping no end. Back to work Monday after next.psyched.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 10, 2016, 06:35:23 pm
Good work fella.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 10, 2016, 07:08:30 pm
Nice one Dave!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on February 11, 2016, 02:15:35 pm
How long do they reckon before you are back to full fitness.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on February 12, 2016, 09:29:18 am
Following on from the NNFN thread.

We heard last night from the people we house/dog sit for that Fizzy the Border terrier turned up last night! A full 11 days after she wondered off

YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on February 12, 2016, 09:30:16 am
YYFY indeed! Great news!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2016, 09:51:00 am
Great. What I was hoping for!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 12, 2016, 10:03:00 am
GGWP Fizzy The Terrier!

Now someone needs to interview her and find out WTF she was up to...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 12, 2016, 11:19:46 am
GPS dog collars - new to market.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 12, 2016, 12:02:13 pm
GGWP Fizzy The Terrier!

Now someone needs to interview her and find out WTF she was up to...
Alcohol, drugs and sex obviously.
Puppies in a few months surely.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 12, 2016, 12:21:49 pm

GGWP Fizzy The Terrier!

Now someone needs to interview her and find out WTF she was up to...
Alcohol, drugs and sex obviously.
Puppies in a few months surely.

I heard she was pretending to be Spanish, riding a bike and Spotting for well known, superhuman climbers...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on February 12, 2016, 12:40:33 pm
Had a shit under a boulder too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on February 13, 2016, 09:22:00 am
How long do they reckon before you are back to full fitness.
Reckon I'll be driving in a week. Not said about full fitness. Need to get power into the muscles but it's coming back rapidly. I'm off to center parcs in 8 weeks and the physio reckons I'll be pretty much fine by then to go in pool, on slides etc. Might give badminton a miss.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on February 13, 2016, 10:21:54 am
Had a shit under a boulder too.

And on a Swan.

Can't believe the dog turned up!   The owners must be so happy - you must be pretty pleased too
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on February 13, 2016, 01:43:00 pm
How long do they reckon before you are back to full fitness.
Reckon I'll be driving in a week. Not said about full fitness. Need to get power into the muscles but it's coming back rapidly. I'm off to center parcs in 8 weeks and the physio reckons I'll be pretty much fine by then to go in pool, on slides etc. Might give badminton a miss.
8 weeks before you can swim I would have thought that you would be ok to do that now. What about climbing.
I managed my first shower in 3 weeks this morning as I'm allowed to take the air boot off and gently weight bear. Consultant reckoned 6 to 12 months to get back to full strength  :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on February 14, 2016, 05:03:44 pm
Dunno webbo, I reckon they have no way of knowing for sure. My progress has surprised the physio. I'm going to the foundry this week to do a bit of toproping to get some idea. Every day I hammer the exercises but it is paying off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on February 15, 2016, 01:58:23 pm
Double yyfy
Decides to try driving. Felt totally fine ie zero pain and can emergency stop with no issue. Yyfy

Drive to burbage to 'have a look'. Had a painful potter in trainers then decided to squeeze on a rockboot. After a nervy few minutes started to understand what my foot could and couldn't do. Soloed route 3 and 20ft crack. Felt like crying I was so happy. Yyfy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 15, 2016, 02:57:15 pm
 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 15, 2016, 05:10:12 pm
Nice one scouse!
Had awesome day at Neath Abbey today, so good to be out in the sun, love this spot, and only 90 min from my house to the boulders.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on February 15, 2016, 06:00:11 pm
Double yyfy
Decides to try driving. Felt totally fine ie zero pain and can emergency stop with no issue. Yyfy

Drive to burbage to 'have a look'. Had a painful potter in trainers then decided to squeeze on a rockboot. After a nervy few minutes started to understand what my foot could and couldn't do. Soloed route 3 and 20ft crack. Felt like crying I was so happy. Yyfy

That VDiff solo was one of the nerviest things I've witnessed but a glorious moment when you topped it out.  It'd been a last minute decision to head there but well worth it to see the psyche pushing through the pain and the joy such a simple thing can bring. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on February 15, 2016, 07:06:58 pm
Felt like crying I was so happy. Yyfy

Awesome!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on February 15, 2016, 07:10:35 pm
Boom!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on February 15, 2016, 07:45:25 pm
Double yyfy
Decides to try driving. Felt totally fine ie zero pain and can emergency stop with no issue. Yyfy

Drive to burbage to 'have a look'. Had a painful potter in trainers then decided to squeeze on a rockboot. After a nervy few minutes started to understand what my foot could and couldn't do. Soloed route 3 and 20ft crack. Felt like crying I was so happy. Yyfy
My highlight of managing to go round with the vac is not quite in the same league.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 15, 2016, 08:37:41 pm
Nice one scouse!
Had awesome day at Neath Abbey today, so good to be out in the sun, love this spot, and only 90 min from my house to the boulders.
And it seems that my last problem of the day was a FA!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 16, 2016, 08:42:00 pm
Soloed route 3 and 20ft crack. Felt like crying I was so happy. Yyfy

I know that feeling, felt the same after soloing a mod at Sennen after I fucked my back so badly.

Stoked for you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 16, 2016, 09:29:59 pm
Crapping fuck Scouse when I was being encouraging about a likely quick recovery I didn't mean that quick. Nor climbing near your previous best  ;) :P :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 17, 2016, 05:00:01 pm
CNC machined pure Ergal pr0n. YYFY.

Front brakes oil tank
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1546/24463312083_6fe00a71ec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DgJSoP)serbatoio olio (https://flic.kr/p/DgJSoP) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Adjustable levers
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1685/24972017852_7c6126eab4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/E3G7TW)leve (https://flic.kr/p/E3G7TW) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Racing style fuel tank top
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1675/24722523019_28eede3aaf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DEDoLT)tappo (https://flic.kr/p/DEDoLT) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Rearward rearsets
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1636/24794539460_4d6bd61f0c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DM1uKE)pedane2 (https://flic.kr/p/DM1uKE) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1478/24794557790_14612612d2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DM1AcG)pedane (https://flic.kr/p/DM1AcG) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Scouse D on February 17, 2016, 05:45:09 pm
Crapping fuck Scouse when I was being encouraging about a likely quick recovery I didn't mean that quick. Nor climbing near your previous best  ;) :P :P
Cheers...
I'm very pleased with the progress. Went to foundry last night and had a good time pulling on juggy problems and campussing. Lovely to be back down the wall.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 18, 2016, 08:39:53 pm
CNC machined pure Ergal pr0n. YYFY.


Love a bit of CNC!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 24, 2016, 10:11:38 am
After months of frustration with the wrist, followed by two months of being ill - finally feel back in the game. Sacked off sports climbing for bouldering and can spend the time better working out how to climb around a fucked up arm.
Had a boulder indoors at the Orange House this morning and managed a style of move that I've struggled with for three years. Means nothing to anyone else but actually feel like I can make some progress eventually.
Maybe the first time on the trip I've felt that that's the case.

Anyone wanna buy some yellow E9 trousers? I look a dick bouldering in them. I look a dick anyway but these things were a drunken mistake that needs rectifying...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on February 24, 2016, 11:11:00 am
did my main trip goal in st léger! now 4 days to relax, explore harder projects, or a bit of both.
incidentally, it is also my first 8a+!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 24, 2016, 11:37:29 am
did my main trip goal in st léger! now 4 days to relax, explore harder projects, or a bit of both.
incidentally, it is also my first 8a+!

nice one! If it were me I would now proceed to try and full beans onsight for the rest of trip with the knowledge you're not fucking yourself over for the project
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 24, 2016, 04:54:59 pm
28 years in the making..

At Minus Ten, Stoney today, with friends Matt and Joe. Beautiful when the sun was out.

I think I tried Sean's Problem for the first time, back in about 1988. For some reason, I'd never been able to stick the move where you reach over with your right hand, while standing on the two small edges above the break..

.. until today!  :dance1:  :2thumbsup:

I'll have to go back for the tick of course, but that was bloody fantastic. I was always solid on a lot of the other classics, but that one move was always a stopper, and doing it with only one of the small edges doesn't count. Trashed today too.

Mega.

Cheers boys  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on February 24, 2016, 05:20:48 pm
Proper oldskool projecting. Good one.

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 24, 2016, 05:48:02 pm
nice one DAVE

was that with The Matt-and-Joe?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on February 24, 2016, 06:43:38 pm
Stoney? TODAY? NNFN more like!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 24, 2016, 07:38:35 pm
Stiff boots with new edges help a LOT on that move.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on February 24, 2016, 10:06:48 pm
Anyone wanna buy some yellow E9 trousers? I look a dick bouldering in them. I look a dick anyway but these things were a drunken mistake that needs rectifying...

I think I could carry it off

£3.75
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 25, 2016, 03:18:42 am
Stiff boots with new edges help a LOT on that move.

Yes, damn right they do, £50 notes from Decathlon, slippers not so good. Old skool projecting requires Old Skool tactics!

And yes, that was with The Matt and The Joe, or is that The Matt and Joe?  ;D

Was pretty good out there actually, in the sun. Massive flood at Rubicon tho.

Not following the Shark finger board protocol definitely helped.

Thanks folks.  :)

Where will we all be in another 28 years?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 25, 2016, 04:38:19 am
After months of frustration with the wrist, followed by two months of being ill - finally feel back in the game. Sacked off sports climbing.. managed a style of move that I've struggled with for three years. Means nothing to anyone else but actually feel like I can make some progress etc..

Kelvin, that sounds like a sweet moment  :2thumbsup:

Stick with it, and the Banana Man pants - I'm sure that's a look you could carry off  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 25, 2016, 04:43:47 am
CNC machined pure Ergal pr0n. YYFY.


Love a bit of CNC!

Lore, let's see the full finished article  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 25, 2016, 07:59:52 am
Stoney? TODAY? NNFN more like!

Beautiful dappled light and steamy breaths, crispy lime under each paw, lovely stuff
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 25, 2016, 09:56:33 am

Stiff boots with new edges help a LOT on that move.

Yes, damn right they do, £50 notes from Decathlon, slippers not so good. Old skool projecting requires Old Skool tactics!

And yes, that was with The Matt and The Joe, or is that The Matt and Joe?  ;D

Was pretty good out there actually, in the sun. Massive flood at Rubicon tho.

Not following the Shark finger board protocol definitely helped.

Thanks folks.  :)

Where will we all be in another 28 years?

Was rubicon flooded out then Dave?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on February 25, 2016, 10:17:12 am


Anyone wanna buy some yellow E9 trousers? I look a dick bouldering in them. I look a dick anyway but these things were a drunken mistake that needs rectifying...

I think I could carry it off

£3.75

At that price... they'll come complete with beer stains, blood and general dirtbag filthiness.
A Viv Westwood work of art almost.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 25, 2016, 10:26:57 am
Tracey Emin more like.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on February 25, 2016, 11:21:06 am
My girlfriend's just got a job in Rotherham. We'll be moving to Sheffield in a month or so. :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on February 25, 2016, 11:23:09 am
Every cloud eh.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 25, 2016, 11:43:43 am
CNC machined pure Ergal pr0n. YYFY.


Love a bit of CNC!

Lore, let's see the full finished article  :2thumbsup:
Cheers Dave, amazing job on the 28 years long project. Legendary stuff. And I was complaining about my four years long board project!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 25, 2016, 07:03:42 pm


 Massive flood at Rubicon tho.


Was rubicon flooded out then Dave?

Sorry TT. That was lame of us.

Just out for a jolly really, so didn't check Kudos etc, but yes, Zeke section was a washout.

Lime looked to be holding a surprising amount of water.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 25, 2016, 07:15:55 pm
Strange - was fine (ish) on Sat and little/no rain since.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 25, 2016, 07:37:15 pm
28 years in the making..

At Minus Ten, Stoney today, with friends Matt and Joe. Beautiful when the sun was out.

I think I tried Sean's Problem for the first time, back in about 1988. For some reason, I'd never been able to stick the move where you reach over with your right hand, while standing on the two small edges above the break..

.. until today!  :dance1:  :2thumbsup:

I'll have to go back for the tick of course, but that was bloody fantastic. I was always solid on a lot of the other classics, but that one move was always a stopper, and doing it with only one of the small edges doesn't count. Trashed today too.

Mega.

Cheers boys  8)

Lovely stuff Dave.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 25, 2016, 07:56:20 pm
My girlfriend's just got a job in Rotherham. We'll be moving to Sheffield in a month or so. :dance1:

Nice one Mike, where are you thinking of living?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 25, 2016, 08:10:56 pm
I'd say in the Summer under Hubble, in the winter outside of the New School Room.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on February 25, 2016, 09:11:01 pm
ROTHERHAM!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on February 26, 2016, 05:31:47 am
To make up for smashing phone last night, I just passed my Level 2 today... :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 26, 2016, 07:14:44 am
Nice one. One yin and yang there jack.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on February 26, 2016, 10:06:27 am
My girlfriend's just got a job in Rotherham. We'll be moving to Sheffield in a month or so. :dance1:

Nice one Mike, where are you thinking of living?

Somewhere on the west/ southwest side of the city- proximity to Rotherham is not that much of a priority. Plan is to rent for a year before looking at buying somewhere. Rache has lived in Sheff in the past so has more of an idea than me- my conditions are basically 1) Close to cliffs 2) not accessed by steps with human faeces next to them.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on February 26, 2016, 10:31:28 am
My girlfriend's just got a job in Rotherham. We'll be moving to Sheffield in a month or so. :dance1:

Nice one Mike, where are you thinking of living?

Somewhere on the west/ southwest side of the city- proximity to Rotherham is not that much of a priority. Plan is to rent for a year before looking at buying somewhere. Rache has lived in Sheff in the past so has more of an idea than me- my conditions are basically 1) Close to cliffs 2) not accessed by steps with human faeces next to them.
definitely not Rotherham then Mike.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andyd on February 26, 2016, 12:40:19 pm
My girlfriend's just got a job in Rotherham. We'll be moving to Sheffield in a month or so. :dance1:

Nice one Mike, where are you thinking of living?

Somewhere on the west/ southwest side of the city- proximity to Rotherham is not that much of a priority. Plan is to rent for a year before looking at buying somewhere. Rache has lived in Sheff in the past so has more of an idea than me- my conditions are basically 1) Close to cliffs 2) not accessed by steps with human faeces next to them.

Slightly closer to Yorkshire grit then. You'll have to come and get your guidebook back!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 26, 2016, 12:53:22 pm
My girlfriend's just got a job in Rotherham. We'll be moving to Sheffield in a month or so. :dance1:

Nice one Mike, where are you thinking of living?

Somewhere on the west/ southwest side of the city- proximity to Rotherham is not that much of a priority. Plan is to rent for a year before looking at buying somewhere. Rache has lived in Sheff in the past so has more of an idea than me- my conditions are basically 1) Close to cliffs 2) not accessed by steps with human faeces next to them.

Slightly closer to Yorkshire grit then. You'll have to come and get your guidebook back!

I've seen the storage invoice, Mike. It really is building up at an alarming rate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mumra on February 26, 2016, 06:01:43 pm
YYFY I'm not pregnant. Been pissing on sticks all day :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 26, 2016, 07:23:36 pm
Go piss on a swan to celebrate  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 29, 2016, 09:38:43 am
YYFY I'm not pregnant. Been pissing on sticks all day :icon_beerchug:

Great news, assuming that's what you want. FWIW I'm not either!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on February 29, 2016, 09:41:53 am
True UKB dedication to maintaining your power-to-weight ratio :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatboySlimfast on February 29, 2016, 09:44:11 am
YYFY I'm not pregnant. Been pissing on sticks all day :icon_beerchug:
Nor am I, it's just bloating

Great news, assuming that's what you want. FWIW I'm not either!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 29, 2016, 10:06:34 am
A week after flying up from a weekend in London and I can't find my camera. Que: "where did I last have it"? Plane? Bus?  Hmm...let's phone Ryaniar...oh no the airline isn't responsible for left items. Phone Glasgow airport....   

"WHat make is it"?

"Olympus OM-D"

"Yes sir, we have your Camera"

 :dance1:

My lass had asked me to get her our shared bag down from the luggage rack which was just enough distraction for me to totally forget about the camera on the floor...  :slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on February 29, 2016, 10:52:00 am
That's a result  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on February 29, 2016, 12:36:03 pm
The camera was on the floor, does your girlfriend know what you were taking pics of?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 29, 2016, 01:10:40 pm
I just hope the aircrew didn't look at the pictures...

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 02, 2016, 10:44:22 pm
Got a phd in leeds, trip to yosemite in september, a font trip in a couple of weeks and a trip to chile to play on volcanoes after that. Bangin . something has to go wrong! Strong start to the year!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on March 02, 2016, 10:46:45 pm
Got a phd in leeds, trip to yosemite in september, a font trip in a couple of weeks and a trip to chile to play on volcanoes after that. Bangin . something has to go wrong! Strong start to the year!

Nice one!  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 03, 2016, 07:33:53 am
Got a phd in leeds, trip to yosemite in september, a font trip in a couple of weeks and a trip to chile to play on volcanoes after that. Bangin . something has to go wrong! Strong start to the year!

Hooray! Well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 03, 2016, 08:33:10 am
Did you get in on a DTP? Who's it with?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 03, 2016, 11:00:11 am
Cheers! Will pm you the details andy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2016, 11:02:36 am
I just hope the aircrew didn't look at the pictures...

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Hope you didn't leave your toothbrush there as well? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on March 05, 2016, 01:21:44 pm
just got accepted to study for a PhD, finally I can actually say that I am right where I want to be!  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 05, 2016, 01:36:12 pm
just got accepted to study for a PhD, finally I can actually say that I am right where I want to be!  :dance1:

PhD climbing bums = 2010s equivalent of the "dole climbers".  Nice one  - there's a remote possibility that I might consider doing the same next year. (basically if I don't get a decent job after this MSc)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on March 05, 2016, 03:01:11 pm
Just finished a week of training to set french régional competitions. A very competent coach, interesting things learns about the subtleties of comp rules, lots of fun setting and tweaking routes and boulders for radically different climbers, including elite 9 year olds and leg amputees...

At the end of it, the setting coach complimented me, said he's sorry that I had to waste my time on this, and strongly suggested I hurry up with the cursus needed to get the national-level qualification!

Is there an impact driver emoticon?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on March 05, 2016, 03:04:24 pm
Which walls do you set at Ghisino? I'm sure I'd recognise you by sight.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 05, 2016, 03:06:06 pm
Got to set a 3.5 week out of office yesterday. Currently enroute to Lleida and Mallorca.

YYFY!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on March 05, 2016, 04:42:03 pm
just got accepted to study for a PhD, finally I can actually say that I am right where I want to be!  :dance1:

PhD climbing bums = 2010s equivalent of the "dole climbers".  Nice one  - there's a remote possibility that I might consider doing the same next year. (basically if I don't get a decent job after this MSc)

Cheers :) weirdly I did actually get a half decent job after my MSc (and in the area which I studied too) but working in industry is just not where I want to be, there is no time allocated for pensive beard scratching and too many time sheets for my liking.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 05, 2016, 07:41:01 pm
there is no time allocated for pensive beard scratching and too many time sheets for my liking.

Part of why I would like to start something myself - then I can make my own rules!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on March 05, 2016, 08:38:46 pm
Which walls do you set at Ghisino? I'm sure I'd recognise you by sight.

MurMur, mainly Pantin (routes and boulders).

if you want to know which routes i set (so you can complain that they are bouldery/morpho/too crispy/too slopey/etc), look for those whose setter's first name starts with g  ;)

if you want to complain directly with me and other setters, setting days are mondays and thursday (mornings)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on March 08, 2016, 07:21:37 pm
First day outside bouldering for 2016 - 1 new problem (to me) and two stellar FA's and a couple of projects to go back to...
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on March 08, 2016, 07:37:50 pm
Which walls do you set at Ghisino? I'm sure I'd recognise you by sight.

MurMur, mainly Pantin (routes and boulders).

if you want to know which routes i set (so you can complain that they are bouldery/morpho/too crispy/too slopey/etc), look for those whose setter's first name starts with g  ;)

if you want to complain directly with me and other setters, setting days are mondays and thursday (mornings)

I haven't been to Murmur in years, I though you might do some of the Arkose setting.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 10, 2016, 10:13:12 am
Day ski touring in Cairgorms;

Coire Raibert
Y Gully
Castlegates Gully
Side Gully (not real name but small one skiers left of Pinnacle, which had no entry point due to weird snow formations at the top)
Lurcher's Gully to finish and skied back to Car Park to finish at about 7pm, just as darkness fell.

Utterly broken today, but an amazing day out. After a claggy start amazing conditions in Loch Avon Basin
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on March 10, 2016, 10:23:03 am
Day ski touring in Cairgorms;

Coire Raibert
Y Gully
Castlegates Gully
Side Gully (not real name but small one skiers left of Pinnacle, which had no entry point due to weird snow formations at the top)
Lurcher's Gully to finish and skied back to Car Park to finish at about 7pm, just as darkness fell.

Utterly broken today, but an amazing day out. After a claggy start amazing conditions in Loch Avon Basin

So f**king jealous.......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 10, 2016, 10:37:07 am
Mate, I thought of you when we did Castlegates. Shame we didn't get Pinnacle done, but entry was not feasible. New skis are great too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 11, 2016, 12:20:22 pm
http://www.scomuir.com/scoweb/routes/season.asp?seasonID=64&theDayID=535#

Some pics. Still buzzing. Thighs still feel beaten though, mean to do a bouldering comp tonight!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on March 12, 2016, 05:58:04 pm
In Frankenjura, too cold for routes so bouldering. Did my first real 6C+  :dance1:

Celebrated in proper Frankenjura style with coffee & cake in Obertrubach.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 12, 2016, 06:02:19 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 12, 2016, 06:12:01 pm
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on March 13, 2016, 09:25:21 pm
In Frankenjura, too cold for routes so bouldering. Did my first real 6C+  :dance1:

Celebrated in proper Frankenjura style with coffee & cake in Obertrubach.

Come on, we need more details than that!


Espresso? Cappuccino? And what kind of cake?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on March 13, 2016, 09:28:05 pm
In Frankenjura, too cold for routes so bouldering. Did my first real 6C+  :dance1:

Celebrated in proper Frankenjura style with coffee & cake in Obertrubach.

Come on, we need more details than that!


Espresso? Cappuccino? And what kind of cake?

Rhabarber mit Sahne, and very fine it was too. Sadly the concept of decent coffee hasn't made it into the rural backwoods of Central Europe yet. You have to go to the Big City for that - there's a superb roastery in Nuremberg.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on March 14, 2016, 08:48:51 pm
Just bought my first house :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 14, 2016, 09:24:36 pm
Sheeeeeeeeeeeit. Congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 14, 2016, 10:14:42 pm
Just bought my first house :strongbench:
Strong!!!  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 14, 2016, 11:57:39 pm
When's the housewarming? I've got some great red wine to spill on the carpet...

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 15, 2016, 08:50:20 am
Firs after work session of the year. Minty conditions on coast. First crux of project felt piss, second one still feels hard, but might have gone if darkness hadn't won.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on March 15, 2016, 10:13:54 am
Awesome weekend.
Climbed on the grit for the first time. 'Competed' at the CWIF. Climbed more grit. Watched CWIF finals. Met Johnny Dawes. Climbed more grit and finally climbed my first 7a, Trackside @ Curbar.

Stunning weather, amazing climbing, endless lauging, and 4 days off work  :bounce:
 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on March 15, 2016, 10:32:25 am
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 15, 2016, 10:50:43 am
Brilliant.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 15, 2016, 04:16:19 pm
Finally managed to send Middle Earth (7A+) at Kentmere. Had a 4-5 year on off tussle with this little bstard of a problem - and after failing trying brute force methods yesterday it succumbed to some guile today :) #static
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on March 15, 2016, 04:20:32 pm
Finally managed to send Middle Earth (7A+) at Kentmere. Had a 4-5 year on off tussle with this little bstard of a problem - and after failing trying brute force methods yesterday it succumbed to some guile today :) #static

awesome. always thought that looked cool, wanted to try this when i was last there but there was a jobby under it  :shit:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 15, 2016, 04:59:46 pm

Finally managed to send Middle Earth (7A+) at Kentmere. Had a 4-5 year on off tussle with this little bstard of a problem - and after failing trying brute force methods yesterday it succumbed to some guile today :) #static

awesome. always thought that looked cool, wanted to try this when i was last there but there was a jobby under it  :shit:

:) it's a bit of a ratty crimp pull tbh, but the moves felt really nice when it went. A good fight. I had a play on The Karma of Trees too... And then realised why it's 7C and takes Dave Mason loads of tries in a video... I managed to pull on though :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: davej on March 15, 2016, 05:50:27 pm
Effort  :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: Nearly went there today but went to a cragx in the end. I've had problems parking in the past was it ok today?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on March 26, 2016, 08:59:52 am
Biggest YYFY of all time. Fuck new grades and all that shit.


Because the dws project is no longer a fucking project! :punk: :punk:

Jumped on rope, cleaned the crux, ditched the rope, psyched up, did it first go. Topped out with a lot of yelling and randoms jumping off and in boats cheering me on.

So surreal.

(http://static.thecrag.com/img/645x/de/13/de13c56c8e1cc33977bc3bda99e836d0e7e0810d)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 26, 2016, 09:06:24 am
Fuckin hero. Go Jack!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 26, 2016, 10:05:31 am
Brilliant Jack :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hugh on March 26, 2016, 12:18:55 pm
Nice one Jack! [emoji2]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: r-man on March 26, 2016, 03:16:37 pm
Looks brilliant. Well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on March 26, 2016, 03:25:11 pm
Nice one Jack!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 26, 2016, 05:03:14 pm
Looks sick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 26, 2016, 11:14:28 pm
What a picture! Brilliant!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on March 26, 2016, 11:58:15 pm
Looks awesome! Strong effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F V2.0 on March 27, 2016, 03:22:52 pm
Wild! Top effort youth.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 27, 2016, 11:26:51 pm
Biggest YYFY of all time. Fuck new grades and all that shit.
:D good stuff sir, well done on your DWS!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on March 28, 2016, 06:23:03 am
Thanks everyone!
Took far too long, very happy. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 28, 2016, 09:05:36 am
Skills!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 28, 2016, 07:07:19 pm
Fine couple of hours in Avon gorge this afternoon, lovely day, lovely spot, and managed my second ever (and first in over a decade) 8a.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on March 28, 2016, 07:08:25 pm
Fine couple of hours in Avon gorge this afternoon, lovely day, lovely spot, and managed my second ever (and first in over a decade) 8a.

Nice
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on March 28, 2016, 07:09:38 pm
Fine couple of hours in Avon gorge this afternoon, lovely day, lovely spot, and managed my second ever (and first in over a decade) 8a.

Good one Duma, to quote my logbook; "Duma pissed it, the bastard". Looking forward to the 8a in a session days...

EDIT: YYFY, 1000 posts!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 28, 2016, 07:21:10 pm


YYFY, 1000 posts!

Now that's a real YYFY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on March 29, 2016, 11:59:52 am
Fine couple of hours in Avon gorge this afternoon, lovely day, lovely spot, and managed my second ever (and first in over a decade) 8a.

Good stuff! Well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Eddies on March 30, 2016, 05:48:24 pm
Finally... I've had confirmation that my long awaited knee operation to hopefully repair my torn meniscus will be on the 19th April [emoji106]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on April 01, 2016, 12:48:45 am
Woohoo! Did my first font 8a on a trip to font! Lets hope for many more!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 01, 2016, 06:59:59 am
Woohoo! Did my first font 8a on a trip to font! Lets hope for many more!  ;D
Good effort.
What'd you do?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on April 01, 2016, 08:26:11 am
Just booked flights to Christchurch for Sept/Oct.

3 weeks in Castle Hill? Yes please!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gcarmichael on April 01, 2016, 08:52:11 pm
Super psyched to have done my first 8A+ today! Been a long time coming :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: haydn jones on April 01, 2016, 10:25:28 pm
Enter the dragon?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gcarmichael on April 01, 2016, 11:10:25 pm
Yeh, had a quick afternoon session today and it went down :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy W on April 02, 2016, 09:30:13 am
It's definitely a YYFY, I've sold my house and am moving to the the Pyrenees, Ariege next week! As well as tying in to a rope again, I hope to discover lots of undeveloped bouldering. A couple of reccy visits suggest this might not be too hard  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 02, 2016, 11:24:07 am
It's definitely a YYFY, I've sold my house and am moving to the the Pyrenees, Ariege next week! As well as tying in to a rope again, I hope to discover lots of undeveloped bouldering. A couple of reccy visits suggest this might not be too hard  :)

Solid YYFY there. I'm sure UKBers will be knocking on the door soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy W on April 02, 2016, 12:32:19 pm
It's definitely a YYFY, I've sold my house and am moving to the the Pyrenees, Ariege next week! As well as tying in to a rope again, I hope to discover lots of undeveloped bouldering. A couple of reccy visits suggest this might not be too hard  :)

Solid YYFY there. I'm sure UKBers will be knocking on the door soon.

Cheers you're all welcome 😊
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ashtond6 on April 02, 2016, 08:06:45 pm
Goal for the year was to onsight a 7a
Onsighted 5 in a row this week.... but more importantly...

YYFY just onsighted my first 7b!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 02, 2016, 08:14:23 pm
Well done  :2thumbsup:

Where?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ashtond6 on April 02, 2016, 11:19:00 pm
Thanks man :)
At El Falco in Arboli, it's to the left of the classic 7c (which I tried and failed on after  :oops:'
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on April 03, 2016, 08:39:15 am
Nice one, well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on April 03, 2016, 09:14:31 am
Don't think I've ever YYFY'd but thought I'd indulge myself - after not being able to pull hard on anything for 6 months following straining my bicep longhead tendon last August, things have knitted back together and I just sent Rock Atrocity last night.  :weakbench:

https://vimeo.com/161313652
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on April 03, 2016, 10:27:57 am
Don't think I've ever YYFY'd but thought I'd indulge myself - after not being able to pull hard on anything for 6 months following straining my bicep longhead tendon last August, things have knitted back together and I just sent Rock Atrocity last night.  :weakbench:

Effort pal! Knew you'd path it. I'm more surprised by the fact you made a bouldering video!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on April 03, 2016, 10:41:31 am
Don't think I've ever YYFY'd but thought I'd indulge myself - after not being able to pull hard on anything for 6 months following straining my bicep longhead tendon last August, things have knitted back together and I just sent Rock Atrocity last night.  :weakbench:

https://vimeo.com/161313652

You can edit vids on your iPhone you know  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on April 03, 2016, 10:58:46 am
Life's too short to waste it editing ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 03, 2016, 11:03:21 am
Life's too short to waste it editing ;)

Here you go Pete: Skip to 10 secs if you're in a hurry... ;)
https://youtu.be/hGcFT8md3aI
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on April 03, 2016, 11:34:04 am
Amazing tekkers  :great:

Won't be long I reckon before they'll be coming up with some way to wirelessly transmit this shit..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on April 03, 2016, 11:41:19 am
Woohoo! Did my first font 8a on a trip to font! Lets hope for many more!  ;D
Good effort.
What'd you do?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Opium in Font (such a great line)- don't think any others like it are coming any time soon- my finger strength is way under par :\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 03, 2016, 11:46:05 am
Won't be long I reckon before they'll be coming up with some way to wirelessly transmit this shit..

Fuck no, that'd be the work of the Devil. Next you'll be telling me that a reality TV show host could become president of the USA...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 03, 2016, 11:56:04 am
Woohoo! Did my first font 8a on a trip to font! Lets hope for many more!  ;D
Good effort.
What'd you do?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Opium in Font (such a great line)- don't think any others like it are coming any time soon- my finger strength is way under par :\
Awesome, my first 8A was also in font.

Would love to be able to do opium (the problem) :D

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on April 03, 2016, 05:34:29 pm
Woohoo! Did my first font 8a on a trip to font! Lets hope for many more!  ;D
Good effort.
What'd you do?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Opium in Font (such a great line)- don't think any others like it are coming any time soon- my finger strength is way under par :\
Awesome, my first 8A was also in font.

Would love to be able to do opium (the problem) :D

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk


Haha, yeah, we got a few funny looks when we said we were going to look for opium, just as it got dark :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Steve R on April 03, 2016, 11:29:00 pm
It's definitely a YYFY, I've sold my house and am moving to the the Pyrenees, Ariege next week!

Nice one!  I'm heading back there in a week or so (I live in Saurat near Calames), so would be good to meet up.  Have pm'd you. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 04, 2016, 08:51:56 am
Cheers you're all welcome 😊

It's in writing guys. Let us know when you get there, I'll book flights.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sxrxg on April 04, 2016, 11:30:13 am
YYFY. Managed to claw my way up tetris yesterday.

Really pleased with this after lots of ill health recently, and having considerably less time to climb/train due to work and child than when I previously climbed this grade. It is probably the best problem I have ever done and I'm now excited to keep trying hard whenever I get chance.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on April 09, 2016, 07:44:11 pm
Was really chuffed to get Insatiable done at Cheddar this morning, managed to nip out for a few hours and along with a retro flash of a 7a+ (never onsighted or flashed harder than 7a in the past) did my first 7b+. What a beauty.
Came home and then went out to the market, shopping etc with the family. I keep having to remind myself it happened as I keep forgetting!! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hugh on April 09, 2016, 08:01:30 pm
Was really chuffed to get Insatiable done at Cheddar this morning, managed to nip out for a few hours and along with a retro flash of a 7a+ (never onsighted or flashed harder than 7a in the past) did my first 7b+. What a beauty.
Came home and then went out to the market, shopping etc with the family. I keep having to remind myself it happened as I keep forgetting!!
Top work! :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on April 09, 2016, 08:40:17 pm
Nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on April 09, 2016, 08:49:21 pm
Nice one, I really like insatiable, not over until the top! The flash wasn't Islands in the city was it? It's the only of the grade that I've ever flashed, which makes me suspicious of the grade as I'm a terrible route climber. Although it is short...

Was Cheddar looking dry in general? Heading there tomorrow. Cheers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on April 10, 2016, 12:01:20 am
Ha.  It was Islands In The City! They are all big boulder problems there I guess but it could be a bit soft.

It rained and hailed while I was there but could still climb.  It was showery all day here.  The Wave,  Ginseng Wall and a few other places looked dry,  Remnant probably a good bet too. Forecast looked bright for Sunday morning last I checked.  Have a good one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on April 10, 2016, 06:57:55 am
You better not do votb today Ross, I still need belays on sw!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csl on April 10, 2016, 08:29:49 am
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on April 10, 2016, 06:21:05 pm
Took our 3 and a half year old son Leon to the climbing wall today for his first proper go on a rope. He loved it and to my surprise seemed to find it pretty easy, after 4 hours he still didn't want to go home...!

Proud Dad!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cha1n on April 10, 2016, 07:20:06 pm
Ha.  It was Islands In The City! They are all big boulder problems there I guess but it could be a bit soft.

Ah well, good to get them done anyway. It was all good there today thanks, everything dry but wet now.  :(

You better not do votb today Ross, I still need belays on sw!

Don't worry Duma, there's loads I want to do up that bit anyway (including sw)! Just pottered on 6's today anyway, had a good time bumbling!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 13, 2016, 06:27:28 am
Minor yyfy.
Did 1-6 ( and pulled to 8, cos it's all about progression) on the medium rungs ( these are the large metolius wood grips) on the campus board at alien last night for the first time ever ( only caught right handed so still need to do left, but only just failed on that side). Am well chuffed, but doing this on the smalls will be a very big ask and may never happen. We'll see.

For info rungs are at 22cm centres on the alien board

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on April 13, 2016, 07:42:26 am
Nice one rodma!  :strongbench: That feat is still one of this winter/spring goals - have had first joint over 6 on both sides but not quite latched on yet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 13, 2016, 08:18:04 am
Nice one rodma!  :strongbench: That feat is still one of this winter/spring goals - have had first joint over 6 on both sides but not quite latched on yet.
Cheers

What made the difference was the simple mention by a rathoid of the term ”muscle up". Just thinking about the movement differently ( beyond lock) made me travel about 10cm further, so was immediately hitting 6 with a bent arm every try.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on April 13, 2016, 08:21:17 am
That's the problem with campussing, too easy to just technique your way through it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 13, 2016, 05:40:43 pm
 :clap2: lol very good. And well done rodman.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on April 13, 2016, 10:14:57 pm
That's the problem with campussing, too easy to just technique your way through it.
Haha

Being as I am training to be able to do deeper than lock moves, the technique and power are exactly what I was trying to improve. I'll never lock 1.1m static footless after all.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on April 15, 2016, 01:49:49 pm
Past 2 weeks I've been bricking some exam results I got today. Distinction in every one of them!  :smartass: (smugtwat). Really chuffed that the hard work payed off. Three left in June and then I'm done for good. Kind of makes up for a pretty shit past 5 months climbing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on April 15, 2016, 01:54:33 pm
Effort. Reward yourself with the first 3 weeks in september off?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on April 15, 2016, 01:56:57 pm
Cheers. I might well have to investigate that idea in June/ July! A powerpoint presentation to my boss might be in order.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on April 18, 2016, 08:37:50 am
So happy to finish off 'The Wave' at Bonehill on Saturday. The weather was gorgeous, if a little warm. Luckily all the lower holds stay in the shade
Not sure if this'll work
https://www.facebook.com/josh.kydd/posts/10154093267667008
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 19, 2016, 07:32:00 pm
Huzzah! Having climbed twice in the last four days the weird and very painful injury I picked up in my right tricep about a month ago definitely seems to have cleared up. Feel like I'm back to square one, but hey ho
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 19, 2016, 08:49:06 pm
Square one is not square zero!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 19, 2016, 10:25:25 pm
So happy to finish off 'The Wave' at Bonehill on Saturday. The weather was gorgeous, if a little warm. Luckily all the lower holds stay in the shade
Not sure if this'll work
https://www.facebook.com/josh.kydd/posts/10154093267667008

That's a great video!

Love the soundtrack, and the sketchy top  ::)

I hope the entourage approved! Have yourself a cream tea  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jonsse on April 20, 2016, 08:42:25 am
YYFY. Managed to claw my way up tetris yesterday.

Really pleased with this after lots of ill health recently, and having considerably less time to climb/train due to work and child than when I previously climbed this grade. It is probably the best problem I have ever done and I'm now excited to keep trying hard whenever I get chance.
Well done mate, you deserve this after the 2016 you've been having.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 26, 2016, 05:43:25 pm
MRI of my left knee "all clear" so no surgery required.

 Minor NNFN - basically fobbed off with "humans aren't meant to hang from their heels :spank: " so basically not much advice... meh.

ANyone had a gastrocgemius train/tendonitis before?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on April 27, 2016, 09:45:13 am
Good to hear you don't need chopping up. I had something along those lines. The fix in the end was lots of stretching of my left hip (comme ci: http://www.yogajournal.com/article/beginners/pigeon-pose/ (http://www.yogajournal.com/article/beginners/pigeon-pose/)) because the poor external rotation I had there was transferring a load of extra torque to my knee. Something to try, perhaps?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 27, 2016, 10:13:29 am
 :2thumbsup:  I've recently started doing some continual movement, stretching type exercises (no...not yoga...honest) so I'll add this one it. Cheers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 27, 2016, 04:22:32 pm
Really happy about recent progress on a project!!!
These moves that were/seemed hard when I started trying it, are now a formality. Shame that the hard bit comes later!!!
There's no better climbing than on my board, and on my board there's no better climbing than on underclings.
Can't wait to finally climb it! And this will happen this coming weekend.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1688/26071835914_59ecda9ede_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FHSYuj)ultimo diocani (https://flic.kr/p/FHSYuj) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Matching with LH.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1575/26073642913_53ace7d56a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FJ3eDt)ultimo diocani 2 (https://flic.kr/p/FJ3eDt) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Getting the next high undercling with RH before the crux of the problem.
I love this shit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on April 27, 2016, 05:03:14 pm
there's no better climbing than on underclings.


Anything to do with underclings making the bicep look bigger?
Got your number ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 27, 2016, 05:51:20 pm
there's no better climbing than on underclings.


Anything to do with underclings making the bicep look bigger?
Not specifically. There's no better climbing than on underclings because Hubble is on underclings.
But big guns are always welcome.  :devangel:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: finbarrr on April 27, 2016, 07:01:03 pm


(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1575/26073642913_53ace7d56a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FJ3eDt)ultimo diocani 2 (https://flic.kr/p/FJ3eDt) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Getting the next high undercling with RH before the crux of the problem.
I love this shit.

I'm happy for you, but don't skip "leg-day". Have you started walking on your arms? They are so much bigger than your legs...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 27, 2016, 07:08:40 pm
With Nibs's motorbike, he has no need for such fripperies as legs.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 27, 2016, 07:38:11 pm
Bros don't let bros skip leg day!
 ;D
Cheers guys, I have to say that my left leg seems slim in the second pic, but I can assure that my legs are "big", at least for a climber.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on May 01, 2016, 10:33:00 pm
Dis my dream project in annot today :punk:
"Pure finger".

Also done by the most random climbing partner ever: hitchhiking in between castellane and la palud, looking hopeless, turns out to be Slovenian wad having ticked estado critici, freerider and a few 5.13 in the desert  :ou
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 02, 2016, 08:17:25 am
Nice one. Next dream project?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 02, 2016, 08:20:18 am
Nibs the weekends gone, any news? Italy doesn't have May Day does it? So no extra days grace for you :smart:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 02, 2016, 10:40:16 am
 ;D ;D ;D
Italy does have May Day, but it was on Sunday, so no extra day grace indeed.
Unfortunately, I got some kind of food poisoning or the likes and spent a couple of nights on the WC. Lost three kilos and am barely able to walk at the moment, climbing the project seemed a little bit ambitious...
But thanks for th thought!
Wednesday!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 02, 2016, 10:41:59 am
That's a shit excuse nibs
;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 02, 2016, 01:50:50 pm
The Mrs hosted a WI committee meeting at our house last night

I've just discovered where she stashed the leftover cake

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 02, 2016, 01:53:47 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 02, 2016, 01:59:40 pm
Nothing like a bout of food poisoning to drop the weight in time for the project!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 02, 2016, 04:57:26 pm
Ahahahahahah! Shame that I'm as weak as a malnourished kitten.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 03, 2016, 10:50:57 am
The Mrs hosted a WI committee meeting at our house last night

I've just discovered where she stashed the leftover cake

 :2thumbsup:

a clear winner is the "pound cake"

made with a 1:1:1:1 ratio, by weight, of flour, butter, eggs, and sugar
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on May 03, 2016, 12:54:03 pm
I climbed last night, first time in 15 weeks. Achilles felt fine and still does today, lower back aches a bit though.
Can someone remind me why we squeeze our feet in to tiny shoes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 03, 2016, 12:58:26 pm
Can someone remind me why we squeeze our feet in to tiny shoes.

rubber doesn't grow on trees. you know
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on May 03, 2016, 01:10:16 pm
Just back from a 9 day trip incorporating Font and Chironico and had amazing weather! One half day of rain when we were driving to Swizzy, every other day dawned sunny, cold and dry. Even the lottery can't buy you that!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEsfdbFTAhr/

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 03, 2016, 01:23:25 pm
Just back from a 9 day trip incorporating Font and Chironico and had amazing weather! One half day of rain when we were driving to Swizzy, every other day dawned sunny, cold and dry. Even the lottery can't buy you that!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEsfdbFTAhr/

mouse pointer hovers over punter button.....

;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 03, 2016, 01:37:32 pm
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 03, 2016, 01:38:07 pm
NSFW dude!

Glad you had a good trip.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ghisino on May 04, 2016, 12:59:50 pm
Nice one. Next dream project?

In the same category ("sport trad"), I'd say the doors in cadarese. Not really harder for most people, but less my kind of effort (pumpy and sustained for 30 meters with one rest/shake. The one I did is two hard short sections with easier climbing in between)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on May 06, 2016, 12:08:00 pm
About time, Gopro have gotten off their ass and admitted my camera is faulty. Its only taken them months.....


Replacement arrived today. :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on May 06, 2016, 02:53:12 pm
Second 8a.

YYFY, maybe the first wasn't a fluke ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 06, 2016, 02:55:22 pm
Second 8a.

YYFY, maybe the first wasn't a fluke ;D

result!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on May 06, 2016, 02:56:11 pm
Effort nai.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 06, 2016, 03:05:43 pm
Time to start that grade 8 pyramid Nai :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on May 06, 2016, 03:20:15 pm
Nice one Ian  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on May 06, 2016, 03:26:25 pm
Which route?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 06, 2016, 03:26:55 pm
Second 8a.

YYFY, maybe the first wasn't a fluke ;D

nice one, well deserved, call of nature?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on May 06, 2016, 03:58:28 pm
Cheers all. Yes it was Call of Nature. It was the first 8a I ever tried back in 2012 but I couldn't link the 3 crux moves, tried it again in 2014 but could barely do any of the crux moves. This year I managed the crux link first session and then through the crux to top next session. Eventually took 4 redpointing sessions and around 20 falls from the final crux move so pretty chuffed to get it done before it became a siege.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 06, 2016, 04:23:28 pm
Yaay! Sending!!  :punk:

Can't wait to get out on the rock and try to emulate some of your success! (Elusive 2nd 8a and one that's not Scotland's softest...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 06, 2016, 04:45:37 pm
What you working for your next 8a?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 06, 2016, 04:53:40 pm
Cheers all. Yes it was Call of Nature. It was the first 8a I ever tried back in 2012 but I couldn't link the 3 crux moves, tried it again in 2014 but could barely do any of the crux moves. This year I managed the crux link first session and then through the crux to top next session. Eventually took 4 redpointing sessions and around 20 falls from the final crux move so pretty chuffed to get it done before it became a siege.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

Fuckin' hard crux for short folk that, get in. I've got a brand new pair of shoes put away for standing on those matchsticks when I ever get back on it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on May 06, 2016, 05:22:18 pm
I've got a brand new pair of shoes put away for standing on those matchsticks when I ever get back on it.

Not sure if it was a winter's training or just a pair of Miuras that made the difference in the end.  Newish Katanas were ok but Solutions were totally useless on the matchsticks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 06, 2016, 07:31:29 pm
I've got a brand new pair of shoes put away for standing on those matchsticks when I ever get back on it.

Not sure if it was a winter's training or just a pair of Miuras that made the difference in the end.  Newish Katanas were ok but Solutions were totally useless on the matchsticks.

you've been training like a mad 'un

i'll my whites are gone  :wavecry:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 08, 2016, 08:10:45 am
YYFY finally did Picnic Sarcastic! 4th session in five years. Was struggling with last couple of moves, put a new shoe on, tweaked some heel beta, bosh sent.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on May 08, 2016, 10:42:03 am
YYFY finally did Picnic Sarcastic! 4th session in five years. Was struggling with last couple of moves, put a new shoe on, tweaked some heel beta, bosh sent.

 :dance1:  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 08, 2016, 11:03:04 am
What you working for your next 8a?

Nowt yet - was going to open the account on Tarrier at Dumby.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 08, 2016, 07:38:58 pm
Second 8a.

YYFY, maybe the first wasn't a fluke ;D
Brilliant!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 09, 2016, 09:21:24 am
What you working for your next 8a?

Nowt yet - was going to open the account on Tarrier at Dumby.

Don't fancy one of the linkups; credit for time served on Sufferance? Guess you could try them all and see which suits!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 09, 2016, 09:28:59 am
'spose I could do suffix, but I really want to do an independent line.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 09, 2016, 09:42:16 am
Great night out Aurora hunting, was up on Cairn o Mount until 2:30, it started getting light about 3. Likely to be it for the season until about September or so. Pics to follow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on May 10, 2016, 08:03:56 pm
1-4-7.5  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rodma on May 12, 2016, 06:59:25 am
1-4-7.5  ;D
Yes, get in :)

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 12, 2016, 10:12:12 am
Nice one beast. At this rate you might be able to crush something hard like The Mandala or something...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 12, 2016, 10:27:56 am
It has a sitter...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 12, 2016, 04:17:30 pm
YYFY!
Just got and mounted the new holds for my board! Proper PE training stuff.
8c+ here I come.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7317/26365273284_236792356f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GaNVcj)image (https://flic.kr/p/GaNVcj) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on May 12, 2016, 10:23:24 pm
Nice one beast. At this rate you might be able to crush something hard like The Mandala or something...

Exactly!  Someday I may get there...

It was one of the few times in my life when I've actually felt powerful. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: filz on May 13, 2016, 11:44:14 am
YYFY!
Just got and mounted the new holds for my board! Proper PE training stuff.
8c+ here I come.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7317/26365273284_236792356f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GaNVcj)image (https://flic.kr/p/GaNVcj) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Nice!! Looking forward to try them  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 13, 2016, 11:58:20 am
Ahahahahahah keep dreaming! That part of the board is private.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 13, 2016, 11:59:20 am
No, really. I'm so fucking psyched!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cjsheps on May 17, 2016, 08:06:27 pm
Last night, I was one the lucky 10,000 people who got to see Manu Chao for free in Plaza Mayor last night as part of the Fiestas de San Isidro. With exams nearly over and summer on the way, it was a really special night.

I've been waiting for years for Chao to play in the same country as me, and he shows up on my doorstep! YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 24, 2016, 06:51:28 pm
Right Wall.


Get the fuck in!!!   


I'm usually better at more physical, less bold routes. When going well I don't mind a runout, but there's always been something about right wall that put the creepers in me. I'd just done Resurrection, then Andy walked up right wall and he asked if I wanted to 2nd or strip... 2nd or strip....

Glad I got him to strip it - what a route, definitely felt the weight of history hanging off my harness...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on May 24, 2016, 07:34:01 pm
Nice! shame they binned karma just before this...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 24, 2016, 07:35:11 pm
have some +ve Korma from me
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 24, 2016, 07:39:40 pm
Nice one Fultonious. Dhansak + from me.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on May 24, 2016, 07:55:45 pm
Korma's not a curry, anyone that eats one is either a small child or a girl. So have some +ve North India special from me.  :2thumbsup:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 24, 2016, 08:00:43 pm
Glad this new curry grading has spiced things up a bit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 24, 2016, 08:01:29 pm
Fried is right - change mine to a chicken achari
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 24, 2016, 08:02:49 pm
Glad this new curry grading has spiced things up a bit.

lets hope no-one takes it too fahl
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 24, 2016, 08:14:40 pm
Eh? Where is the karma? Have I missed something? Has this been binned for everyone because 3 people were offended?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 24, 2016, 08:35:02 pm
Now we're all just going to be saying well done all the time. Anyway, well done Fultonius.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on May 24, 2016, 08:40:29 pm
Brilliant Fultonius!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 24, 2016, 08:48:18 pm
Yep nice one fultonius :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on May 24, 2016, 08:50:38 pm
Great stuff Fultonius, been dreaming of that exactly day out for too long now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 24, 2016, 09:58:01 pm
Still in the afterglow :-)   I feel I missed a trick by going for a burger rather than a Lamb Rogan Josh...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 24, 2016, 10:20:03 pm
What would negative Korma be though?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 25, 2016, 07:36:08 am
A burger
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on May 25, 2016, 10:07:22 am
A burger

So I basically puntered myself?  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 25, 2016, 11:55:22 am
No I looked at it more philosophically like if you take a burger for right wall you'd order a kebab for when you do Lord
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on May 25, 2016, 01:43:38 pm
Results from my MRI came back. No surgery required in my shoulder. :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:


 Apparently it's "structurally sound", which is great but it still doesn't tell me why I've had agony in certain shoulder positions  :-\
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on May 25, 2016, 01:46:46 pm
Weakness!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Moo on May 25, 2016, 08:26:49 pm
thats a given
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 31, 2016, 03:07:58 pm
YYFY!
What was supposed to be next season project went down yesterday in torrid conditions, out of nowhere. Satisfying and disappointing at the same time. Done in those conditions it can't be hard innit?
Grinning like a mofo nonetheless.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7743/27374613435_6076de0a12_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HH13RH)8 (https://flic.kr/p/HH13RH) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7044/26767045764_ecf371247f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GMj7a3)3 (https://flic.kr/p/GMj7a3) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7527/27304182811_817e2fd539_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HAM5hB)6 (https://flic.kr/p/HAM5hB) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7750/27340917326_c9ecd7128b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HE2mbj)5 (https://flic.kr/p/HE2mbj) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7219/27304183691_320f9c4478_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HAM5xM)7 (https://flic.kr/p/HAM5xM) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 31, 2016, 03:25:29 pm
Nice one  :2thumbsup: Those crimps look minging...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: filz on May 31, 2016, 03:33:27 pm
Congrats!! :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 31, 2016, 03:49:15 pm
Congrats!! :2thumbsup:
Second ascent is up for grabs...  :yes:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on May 31, 2016, 05:05:44 pm
is a 2nd ascent still significant?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 31, 2016, 05:26:32 pm
Great effort Lore!  :beer2:

It's the investment that takes the courage. Your number came up, so milk it  :clap2:

Those crimps look dispiriting. Cool looking problem though. Go and celebrate with some new machined billet for the bike perhaps  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on May 31, 2016, 08:23:08 pm
Looks cool, well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 31, 2016, 11:29:41 pm
Effort min
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 01, 2016, 09:21:49 am
Cheers guys! Feeling good about it!!!

Dave, I got myself a new leather jacket.  8)  :devangel:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Krank on June 01, 2016, 09:29:34 am
(http://g.nordstromimage.com/ImageGallery/store/product/Large/2/_9295822.jpg)

 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 01, 2016, 10:19:51 am
Want. Now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 01, 2016, 10:24:51 am
This...

(http://g.nordstromimage.com/ImageGallery/store/product/Large/2/_9295822.jpg)

 8)

Goes with this...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160601/ad0f2abc53e24819435d9b7c0512d82b.jpg)

Perfectly.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 01, 2016, 11:25:25 am
jacket looks a little narrow across the shoulders, but I would haver gone for such a garment at the time
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 01, 2016, 12:32:56 pm
Cheers guys! Feeling good about it!!!

Dave, I got myself a new leather jacket.  8)  :devangel:

Good man  8)

Your psyche is a tonic, Lore  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 01, 2016, 05:29:56 pm
Is it me, or does that wolf have hamster ears?

(nice job Nibs)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 01, 2016, 10:52:02 pm
I had a nice retro YYFY moment on Saturday (and repeated on Sunday)

I started climbing in Ilkley quarry 30 years ago and after I bought some boots I used to go up after school whenever skin and weather allowed (and sometimes even if they didn't)

there was a big traverse that I was really chuffed to finally manage and it then became a part of my routine

I did it in reasonable style at the weekend having not done the whole thing for quite a few years - it was really nice doing moves that I remember having to work initially as a kid and which then became my daily "escape"

traverse from the start of S Crack to the bottom of Fairy Steps (feet on the ledge, not hands), then onto the twin cracks and the start of Little John to the ledge of Short Circuit, reverse the start of Short Circuit until feet are on the first foot ledge, traverse right all the way across Waterloo start to the first ledge on Earwig Rib, right and down to continue low to Botterill's Crack, layback up this for a couple of meters and go right to the bottom of the flake of Flake Crack and then layback to the top of the horribly polished Flake Crack

nothing harder than Font 6A, but I remember when I couldn't climb any of the sections, let alone link them all up - and then there was the little foot moves that my body remembered even if I didn't

it was cool
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 02, 2016, 12:45:13 pm
Nectar, Lagers.

 :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on June 02, 2016, 02:39:56 pm
(http://s33.postimg.org/quhme1kmn/medal.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 02, 2016, 02:52:55 pm
heck yeah!

gonna video it next time to help folk get to sleep
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2016, 03:42:19 pm
Is Jury Duty a YYFY or a NNFN? Beats being in the office I suppose and I only need to turn up at 9:45.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 02, 2016, 04:12:06 pm
Is Jury Duty a YYFY or a NNFN? Beats being in the office I suppose and I only need to turn up at 9:45.

It can be interesting or very boring. Can be quite nasty/difficult too...

Had a friend who ended up in a 3 week one, split jury etc... by his account the perp was guilty as, just bell ends in the jury..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 02, 2016, 04:13:35 pm
It's sheriff court, not high. Hope it doesn't run to 3 weeks, will be on holiday

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on June 02, 2016, 07:34:15 pm
I had a nice retro YYFY moment on Saturday (and repeated on Sunday)

I started climbing in Ilkley quarry 30 years ago and after I bought some boots I used to go up after school whenever skin and weather allowed (and sometimes even if they didn't)

there was a big traverse that I was really chuffed to finally manage and it then became a part of my routine

I did it in reasonable style at the weekend having not done the whole thing for quite a few years - it was really nice doing moves that I remember having to work initially as a kid and which then became my daily "escape"

traverse from the start of S Crack to the bottom of Fairy Steps (feet on the ledge, not hands), then onto the twin cracks and the start of Little John to the ledge of Short Circuit, reverse the start of Short Circuit until feet are on the first foot ledge, traverse right all the way across Waterloo start to the first ledge on Earwig Rib, right and down to continue low to Botterill's Crack, layback up this for a couple of meters and go right to the bottom of the flake of Flake Crack and then layback to the top of the horribly polished Flake Crack

nothing harder than Font 6A, but I remember when I couldn't climb any of the sections, let alone link them all up - and then there was the little foot moves that my body remembered even if I didn't

it was cool

That's great.

Coincidentally I read it just after this piece (https://www.theguardian.com/music/2016/jun/01/how-the-electric-guitar-i-threw-away-20-years-ago-found-its-way-back-to-me?CMP=fb_gu) by Peter Bradshaw which covers some of the same ground.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 07, 2016, 12:42:41 pm
It's sheriff court, not high. Hope it doesn't run to 3 weeks, will be on holiday

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

Surely a planned holiday is just cause for a dismissal no?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2016, 02:43:16 pm
I've got off twice using that. I think they say you won't be there longer than a week in sheriff court.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on June 07, 2016, 02:53:44 pm
Quote
Top level quoting there...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 07, 2016, 03:29:26 pm
Quote
Word

Luckily I'm used to your odd Caledonian ways.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on June 07, 2016, 07:55:42 pm
I had a nice retro YYFY moment on Saturday (and repeated on Sunday)

I started climbing in Ilkley quarry 30 years ago and after I bought some boots I used to go up after school whenever skin and weather allowed (and sometimes even if they didn't)

there was a big traverse that I was really chuffed to finally manage and it then became a part of my routine

I did it in reasonable style at the weekend having not done the whole thing for quite a few years - it was really nice doing moves that I remember having to work initially as a kid and which then became my daily "escape"

traverse from the start of S Crack to the bottom of Fairy Steps (feet on the ledge, not hands), then onto the twin cracks and the start of Little John to the ledge of Short Circuit, reverse the start of Short Circuit until feet are on the first foot ledge, traverse right all the way across Waterloo start to the first ledge on Earwig Rib, right and down to continue low to Botterill's Crack, layback up this for a couple of meters and go right to the bottom of the flake of Flake Crack and then layback to the top of the horribly polished Flake Crack

nothing harder than Font 6A, but I remember when I couldn't climb any of the sections, let alone link them all up - and then there was the little foot moves that my body remembered even if I didn't

it was cool

That's great.

Coincidentally I read it just after this piece (https://www.theguardian.com/music/2016/jun/01/how-the-electric-guitar-i-threw-away-20-years-ago-found-its-way-back-to-me?CMP=fb_gu) by Peter Bradshaw which covers some of the same ground.

Proust's madeleine... Great stuff
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 07, 2016, 09:36:34 pm
I'm still thinking about the experience - I wish  had the words to describe the zig zag and blending of long past experiences and the recent event (my traverse, not the Peter Bradshaw piece)

did Proust write about the experience of ancient muscle/movement memory?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 07, 2016, 09:58:14 pm
I seem to remember he wrote about an/aerocap cycles...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 07, 2016, 10:09:31 pm
I look forward to Barrows writing some Proustian reflections on his old Sheffield aerocap routines whilst at an exotic location at the end of his trip
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 08, 2016, 08:59:01 am
I look forward to Barrows writing some Proustian reflections on his old Sheffield aerocap routines whilst at an exotic location at the end of his trip


After biting into a Protein bar?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2016, 09:24:12 am
I look forward to Barrows writing some Proustian reflections on his old Sheffield aerocap routines whilst at an exotic location at the end of his trip


After biting into a Protein bar?

Maybe there is a market for a philosophy bar?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on June 08, 2016, 12:47:13 pm
Why?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 08, 2016, 01:29:17 pm
Why?

Precisely.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on June 09, 2016, 11:22:19 am
Great day yesterday; chuffed my way along the Longridge traverse as far as high break for the first time, and then whilst i was making a late supper, the missing moggy returned home - YYFY!

(The little f*cker is getting a collar before i let him out again!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on June 09, 2016, 12:42:52 pm
he looked proud of himself though ally

Well done btw
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 11, 2016, 10:00:01 am
Great YYFY. Yesterday, after some 25 years, the old basket team reunited for a charity game. Some guys I hadn't seen in ages.
It's been amazing and touching.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7118/26986298754_fd68d8356e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/H7FQr1)DSC_0019 (https://flic.kr/p/H7FQr1) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 11, 2016, 05:28:30 pm
That's a really cool one Lore,

I had a major YYFY a couple of weeks ago - I've been given a year's leave, which I will spend in the US, the first step in moving there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on June 11, 2016, 06:03:34 pm
I had a major YYFY a couple of weeks ago - I've been given a year's leave, which I will spend in the US, the first step in moving there.

Now that sounds really cool..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 11, 2016, 06:20:25 pm
That's actually cooler than mine!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shurt on June 11, 2016, 06:44:10 pm
That's actually cooler than mine!

I thought the basketball was cool as well btw. Spent too many hours of my youth throwing a ball at that goddam hoop.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 11, 2016, 06:55:05 pm
Yeah, I really enjoyed the game, although I really sucked! 0/3 from the field (two throws didn't even touch the rim...) but one assist.
The only thing that really hindered full joy and fun was the terror of getting injured, especially knees and ankles. I couldn't keep it away from my mind even for a second.
Oh well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 13, 2016, 09:03:40 am
So many "shit isn't that" s in one photo, don;t know where to start!

Nice Andy, Location?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 13, 2016, 10:06:40 am
\o/ President Popp? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 13, 2016, 12:05:28 pm
Nice Andy, Location?

Cheers. Eastern PA, about an hour outside Philadelphia, in the first instance.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 13, 2016, 12:42:05 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rciee-oQLoI

Nice and central for a lot of cool places.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 13, 2016, 06:02:31 pm
Great news, Andy. The States'gain will be our loss.
Best crack on with your Harmer's Wood project then...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: User deactivated on June 13, 2016, 07:09:38 pm
So many "shit isn't that" s in one photo, don;t know where to start!

Nice Andy, Location?

CJD has got to be the place to start, no?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 14, 2016, 05:55:56 pm
 :dance1: :bounce: :pissed:

BIG... YYFY for me!

10 years ago, I was stuffed financially for various reasons, and took out a secured home loan with GE Money - that's General Electric, an American company; that ought to have had alarm bells ringing.
To cut a long story short, I ran into difficulties again, and in 2008, GE decided they wanted my house. Fair enough of course, and I knew the risks.

We went to court, and together with an agreement to increase the monthly figure - in part, to cover exorbitant legal fees, the court awarded a suspended possession order.

Two months ago, I was still getting letters warning me about the suspended possession order.

Today I managed to clear the last.

I'll be celebrating, just as soon as I have a few pennies back in the bank!

BIG thanks to my mate Ian, who helped bail me out along the way  :)  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 14, 2016, 06:10:39 pm
nice one Dave

 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 14, 2016, 07:11:22 pm
nice one Dave

 :great:

Thanks Rob.

I might actually be able to scrape by on aluminium cans now!

Yippa-dee-f'ing-doo-dah!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 14, 2016, 08:14:13 pm
Excellent Dave. Must be a relief.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 14, 2016, 08:47:37 pm
Thanks Rob.

I might actually be able to scrape by on aluminium cans now!


car batteries are where the big money is at  :greed:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 14, 2016, 09:03:14 pm
Excellent Dave. Must be a relief.

Thanks tomtom  :icon_beerchug:

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7690/27061857234_8484cf1ebd_b.jpg)

On another occasion, I managed to get the house repossessed! I'd been given a final payment deadline, but the payment date coincided with a bank holiday weekend - clever that.
Anyway, I'd kept to my side of the bargain, and delivered a bank draft to the solicitors, before setting off for a stint of work in Dublin (along with the esteemed mrJonathanr and others).
Of course, the payment wasn't processed until after the estate agent had broken in and changed the locks. One of the other guys got a call, to tell me that there was now a notice in my front window saying "this property has been repossessed etc. Got it sorted, but a minor drama!


I might actually be able to scrape by on aluminium cans now!


car batteries are where the big money is at  :greed:

Yep, got one of those waiting in the cellar. £3 right there!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 14, 2016, 09:28:02 pm
and there's more training value in car batteries
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 14, 2016, 09:47:27 pm
That is fantastic news Dave - and a bloody amazing effort. Well done! One of the best YYFYs we've ever had I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on June 14, 2016, 09:53:19 pm
Get the fuck in Sir...

It's yours again. Respect
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 14, 2016, 10:07:05 pm
Nice one Dave  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on June 14, 2016, 10:51:32 pm
That sounds like a massive weight lifted from the shoulders, Dave. Nice one  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 14, 2016, 11:44:55 pm
Hey, thanks all! xx

  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: bigironhorse on June 16, 2016, 03:47:42 pm
Got myself a PhD! That's another 3 years in Sheffield then  :dance1: :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on June 16, 2016, 04:05:29 pm
Got myself a PhD! That's another 3 years in Sheffield then  :dance1: :great:

Well done mate, chuffed for you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 01, 2016, 09:14:46 am
Filled in a feedback form after buying bike from Evans Cycles and got £250 voucher in lucky draw!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 01, 2016, 11:58:19 am
I filled that form in, where's my voucher?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on July 01, 2016, 12:02:16 pm
Your form must have gone into the 'unlucky draw'.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 01, 2016, 12:10:44 pm
Story of my life! Weird that the last form I filled in got me what I wanted then.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 01, 2016, 01:15:09 pm
Looks like you are one of a decreasing number..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 01, 2016, 01:46:31 pm
it doesn't matter anymore
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 01, 2016, 02:38:29 pm
it doesn't matter anymore
Chin up dense... I thought you were positive about the Brexit? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 01, 2016, 02:43:22 pm
I didn't mean for me
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 01, 2016, 02:49:47 pm
:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on July 03, 2016, 01:44:41 pm
Climbed infinite suspense this morning for my first straight up 7c+ boulder after a month of being stuck on my garage woody! Well chuffed!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 03, 2016, 02:50:22 pm
You're never stuck on your garage woodie ;) nice one :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: masonwoods101 on July 03, 2016, 05:13:00 pm
Think i should be stuck on it more... No wait... Scrap that
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 03, 2016, 11:17:39 pm
on the face of it, this weekend was going to be a bit meh....

taking kids to several parties, dance rehearsals and sitting through a dance show

rain forecast on Saturday

40th birthday party for a friend of Mrs Starfish - mostly made up of Brexiteering Mosboroughites, which usually means that I end up drinking a lot as a coping strategy

anyway....

the little lad went with someone else's parent to his party on Saturday, which freed up some time for me - similarly, Mrs Starfish managed a run while middle child was at a party (and if Mrs Starfish is happy, then I am happy). I used the time to work on the van (Grumpycrumpy's old van) and fixed the back door handle and opening mechanism as well as the lock and the central locking switch. I also fitted the rear seat/bed with the willing help of the lad after he got back; so the van now has sleeping capacity. no money was spent - just used shit from my shit collection. proper BA Baracus moments.

the 40th party went well - good snacks included homemade cheese straws and sausage rolls - I drank a lot of Stella and danced with a lot of interesting women (including Mrs Starfish). No Brexit supporting Mosborough men were on the dance floor.

massive hangover this morning- Mrs Starfish had to drive us back from Halfway in the morning

my Dad's Taxi shift finished unexpectedly early today and Mrs Starfish pointed out that I had time to go climbing. I had not expected to have this opportunity, which contributed to my unconstrained alcohol consumption last night. My Bad Ankle was very bad due to dancing a lot, but I headed out to do some Easy Mileage. Burb N parking was rammed, so I headed to the plantation (got my Stand up fo' Stanage sticker, so might as well use it, eh?). threw up on the way up the hill, seemed to be moving OK on the rock, knocked off a few 6s and even a couple of 7s, felt Good, stopped at the parking for Apparent North and walked over to Higgar East - threw up again - climbed OK. knocked off a few things in reasonable style at burb W and N before getting home... in the van that I had been fixing up the day before

even the dance show (even the bits without middle child) was pretty good

now looking forward to tomorrow night - teachers are on strike Tuesday and I'm not at work that day, so I can take the kids to sleep out on the newly fitted bed in the van

PSYCHED!   :bounce:

*edit* drinking to excess is not big or clever
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2016, 07:51:09 am
Great tale Lagers :)

A true hustlers performance - drag your hungover carcass out of bed and perform like a hero.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on July 04, 2016, 09:34:37 am
Nice Lagers
http://youtu.be/h4UqMyldS7Q (http://youtu.be/h4UqMyldS7Q)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 05, 2016, 12:41:16 pm
they'd need a bigger SWAT team to take me down

#bulletproofblubber

anyway - camping out in the van was ace - the kids loved it - then we went fishing this morning at Barlow as soon as they woke up - everyone caught lots
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on July 05, 2016, 04:28:33 pm
Just done a new trad route at High Tor  :dance1:

Now in brambles belaying Bonjoy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 05, 2016, 04:58:04 pm
Just done a new trad route at High Tor  :dance1:

Now in brambles belaying Bonjoy

nice one, where's it go?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 05, 2016, 05:58:06 pm
Just done a new trad route at High Tor  :dance1:

Now in brambles belaying Bonjoy

nice one, where's it go?

Is this going to be another onnishambles like the eatswood 'new' problems? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on July 05, 2016, 07:55:36 pm
Just done a new trad route at High Tor  :dance1:

Now in brambles belaying Bonjoy

nice one, where's it go?

Starts as for Happy Hour / Johnny Brown then heads diagonally to the overhang in Original Route to belay then the second pitch swings around the arete to the Tales thread then traverses horizontally right to finish past the last bolt on Bastille.

I had the idea BITD and in the mid 80's dragged Seb out in the middle of winter. I remember there was snow on the ground and I rubbed my hands in it to get hot aches to warm up!. We started from the Lyme Cryme belay and I led a first pitch from there at about E2/3 but thought it was a bit scrappy and so scotched doing the second pitch. It occurred to me more recently that starting up HH/JB would make it a better and more balanced route.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on July 08, 2016, 01:07:36 am
Did my first 7c at the Bren the other eve! Psyched!

https://vimeo.com/173836927
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on July 08, 2016, 04:19:09 am
Nice one!

Some quality release of tension at the chains there!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on July 08, 2016, 02:10:15 pm
Nice one!

Some quality release of tension at the chains there!

Cheers guys!

Haha, I've been trying it on and off for 3 years and it started to be a bit of a mental battle, lots of adrenaline contributed to the outburst!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on July 19, 2016, 05:55:41 pm
I've got my mojo back for climbing.   ;D ;D ;D ;D

I went for a hike yesterday with a couple of friends, not really thinking or looking at climbing to an area we had looked at many many years ago and found the single best untouched boulder I've ever seen.  Bullet granite, great features, 12-15 lines, mostly decent landings, aesthetic location, etc...  Looks like a good variety of difficulties, and moderate height to fairly highball...

Can't wait to get back out there to start cleaning and sending.  I'll post up some pics after we get some cleaning done....

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 20, 2016, 10:12:51 am
Absolutely elated that my RIBA grant application to pursue Scotch Whisky distillery architecture was accepted. Offered the full 2k which I'm psyched about! The plan is to have a few industry cohorts fund an exhibition of the output if possible.

https://www.architecture.com/RIBA/Becomeanarchitect/Fundingyoureducation/Researchfunding/GordonRickettsMemorialFund.aspx

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 20, 2016, 10:34:26 am
Nice one. This place needs some good news!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 20, 2016, 10:42:59 am
Absolutely elated that my RIBA grant application to pursue Scotch Whisky distillery architecture was accepted. Offered the full 2k which I'm psyched about! The plan is to have a few industry cohorts fund an exhibition of the output if possible.

https://www.architecture.com/RIBA/Becomeanarchitect/Fundingyoureducation/Researchfunding/GordonRickettsMemorialFund.aspx



Nice one Lid! Need any photography?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on July 20, 2016, 10:54:12 am
Absolutely elated that my RIBA grant application to pursue Scotch Whisky distillery architecture was accepted. Offered the full 2k which I'm psyched about! The plan is to have a few industry cohorts fund an exhibition of the output if possible.

https://www.architecture.com/RIBA/Becomeanarchitect/Fundingyoureducation/Researchfunding/GordonRickettsMemorialFund.aspx



Nice one Lid! Need any photography?

Cheers guys. Adam, I've actually budgeted for a DSLR but since I have about 8% knowledge of how to use a camera to any good effect, you might like to come along for the ride eh? It'll be staged over several trips and I'll start to get a schedule and plan together soon now that I've been able to publicly announce the award.

Especially pleased since my back is trashed and it'll offer a nice distraction from not being able to climb.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 20, 2016, 11:10:03 am
Nice one Tom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 20, 2016, 11:26:07 am
Great news brother. Very proud of you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: a dense loner on July 20, 2016, 07:11:19 pm
Couldn't find anywhere to put this in diet, training, injuries but was doing one arm hangs in the garage before with a butterfly flying around me. Very surreal ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 20, 2016, 07:58:21 pm
a message from Muhammad Ali?

you are special
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 20, 2016, 10:27:36 pm
Absolutely elated that my RIBA grant application to pursue Scotch Whisky distillery architecture was accepted. Offered the full 2k which I'm psyched about! The plan is to have a few industry cohorts fund an exhibition of the output if possible.

https://www.architecture.com/RIBA/Becomeanarchitect/Fundingyoureducation/Researchfunding/GordonRickettsMemorialFund.aspx

Nice work Tom - congratulations!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 23, 2016, 05:28:23 pm
After two years without even a sniff of a road trip, we're now sat in the Dordogne for the next six days (in a gite, with pool), after a couple days in Font and a week on an island in the Vendee (Noirmoutier) to follow.
Already spent the entire budget, but bank agreed to extend overdraft too!
Happy days!

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160723/8da05b0e12f7c609a972a54157cd8a3c.jpg)



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 23, 2016, 06:34:22 pm
\o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TheTwig on July 24, 2016, 06:10:10 am
Couldn't find anywhere to put this in diet, training, injuries but was doing one arm hangs in the garage before with a butterfly flying around me. Very surreal ;D

That is awesome :D As long as he doesn't follow you around, perching on the crux holds of your boulder problems
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 25, 2016, 11:51:17 am
I've actually budgeted for a DSLR but since I have about 8% knowledge of how to use a camera to any good effect, you might like to come along for the ride eh?

I think you should make use of local resources! (me!)

Congrats, sounds interesting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 25, 2016, 08:41:16 pm
Quick evening stroll, turned into a stalk. Managed to skirt downwind of this little lady and sneak back to within 30mtrs, then realised I'd forgotten to put my phone on silent and she heard the damn artificial shutter sound, bugger!

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160725/f052b3ca3dcc97ed48e45e9e14d184ac.jpg)



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 25, 2016, 08:53:38 pm
Quick evening stroll, turned into a stalk. Managed to skirt downwind of this little lady and sneak back to within 30mtrs, then realised I'd forgotten to put my phone on silent and she heard the damn artificial shutter sound, bugger!

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160725/f052b3ca3dcc97ed48e45e9e14d184ac.jpg)



Nice oil painting, what is it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 26, 2016, 06:27:03 am
I only had my phone. [emoji13]



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 26, 2016, 06:31:26 am
Yes, but what is it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 26, 2016, 07:37:50 am
Looks like a field of grass to me. But I'm not a grass or field expert.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: monkoffunk on July 26, 2016, 07:38:09 am
Is it a deer?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 26, 2016, 07:44:59 am
Looks like a field of grass to me. But I'm not a grass or field expert.

But surely you've done plenty of field work?

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 26, 2016, 09:05:09 am
It's outstanding in it's field.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 26, 2016, 09:14:05 am
Looks like a field of grass to me. But I'm not a grass or field expert.

But surely you've done plenty of field work?

Plenty. But that generally doesn't involve looking at fields. Not into any of that weird soil or plants stuff [emoji12]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 26, 2016, 09:27:44 am
I feel sorely misled and let down.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 26, 2016, 09:56:55 am
I feel sorely misled and let down.
[/quote

Just to compound your misery, I have a very limited knowledge of country names and capital cities ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 26, 2016, 07:00:52 pm
It was a Doe.

Or possibly a Re.

Or a Mi?



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on July 27, 2016, 09:08:49 am
That must be of some con-so-la-ti-on, at least.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 27, 2016, 09:14:39 am
I think it's a Trapp.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2016, 10:24:38 am
Who are you Admiral Ackbar?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 27, 2016, 12:01:26 pm
Who are you Admiral Ackbar?

Dig deeper into your sound of music knowledge young skywalker...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 27, 2016, 12:39:25 pm
I know perfectly well who the Von Trapps were.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 27, 2016, 07:54:38 pm
I know perfectly well who the Von Trapps were.

I click my heels together in acknowledgement :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on August 01, 2016, 09:07:06 pm
YYFY! Got 1-4-7 tonight!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 10, 2016, 06:16:02 pm
Mega chuffed, just did front lever pulls with 10 kg on (8 kg weightvest and 2 kg at the ankles), on front2 and mid2 small pockets, index and middle monos. Then a proper front lever with 8 kg on ring monos.
26 degrees, 56% humidity. Who needs Magic Wood in the Summer? Not me.
It's not over yet. Come the fuck on. YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on August 10, 2016, 08:59:46 pm
Nice nibs! What's a front lever pull?

Did 147 this eve. medium rungs, and only leading with left, but still, first time since uni (18 yrs ago!) like you say, it's not over.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 10, 2016, 09:21:37 pm
1-5-7-9 for me. Large rungs though, but it's coming!



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 10, 2016, 11:10:38 pm
A front lever pull is a pull done with straight arms and straight body, finishing in a front lever position.
I wanted to do proper front levers for the test, but I was feeling a bit unsafe despite the pads under the BM, and the weight at the ankles completely fucks up your body positioning, pushig you out of the holds. Plus, they were moving a bit and I was oscillating. Need a better setup next time, or maybe just a spotter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 16, 2016, 09:48:34 pm
The jug at the top of A Bigger Tail really is huge isn't it :)

\o/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on August 16, 2016, 10:40:00 pm
Nice work tt
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 18, 2016, 08:51:16 am
Back to max added weight on the BM incut rung despite being heavier now.
YYFY. Back around Megos.
My back feels a bit worked this morning though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy P on August 18, 2016, 02:33:14 pm
Back to max added weight on the BM incut rung despite being heavier now.
YYFY. Back around Megos.
My back feels a bit worked this morning though.

A beautiful, tatooed & pierced lady wearing 'interesting' apparel and very high, spikey heels did more for my back than three chiro sessions. Just sayin' like ..
Taxi!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 19, 2016, 09:14:14 am
 :dance1: :devangel:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 20, 2016, 11:33:30 am
Sorry, but I'm f'ing proud. OMM junior #2 first passable muscle-up.

https://vimeo.com/179556070 (https://vimeo.com/179556070)


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 20, 2016, 11:59:03 am
Brilliant. How old is he?
It's very important to start impressing the girls on the beach at the youngest age possible.
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on August 20, 2016, 02:12:41 pm
Cool. And now I know what a muscle-up is.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 20, 2016, 03:50:27 pm
Brilliant. How old is he?
It's very important to start impressing the girls on the beach at the youngest age possible.
 :dance1:
9.

Going on 39...



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lukeyboy on August 29, 2016, 06:58:07 pm
After a lovely weekend in the dales with the in-laws, we managed to sneak a session at Almscliff on the drive back to Bristol.

I spent a sunny afternoon on 3* classic after 3* classic - firstly Great Western which was wild (for a short grit route), then Z Climb Eliminate which was lovely, and after a bit of internal debate did Wall of Horrors which was excellent, though some larger cams would have really helped!

Particularly pleased with the last one as I've not climbed trad for ages and it was also our first time at the 'Cliff... will definitely be back!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 30, 2016, 08:49:21 am
Good work. WoH was always one I wanted to do ever since reading the M John Harrison Book "Climbers" but never got on it :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 30, 2016, 12:45:06 pm
Amazing weekend in Pembroke. Have been to the area twice already this year, once on the May bank holiday where it rained for two of the three days, and once on a family holiday with a brief visit to Barrel Zawn. So good to get there and have a weekend full of climbing.

Monday - started at Craig Caerfai on Age Concern which had some great climbing and situations, if not being completely devoid of a line. Seconded my mate on Amorican who hasn't climbed in ages and "wasn't really feeling up to VS". Naturally he cruised it which was great to see. Then moved onto Barrel Zawn which was just fab. A lad from London there, plus local activist Tom Luddington who were both kind enough to point out the invisi-holds on Giant Farts. Then did Snake Pass which was blissfully technical and absorbing - nothing at all for the hands at one point, just a mantel on a very near vertical wall. Realised that I was still terrified of falling in the sea (not so much because I thought I was in danger, more that I'm a landlubber with a fear of the unknown/getting wet/getting cold/getting saltwater in my nose) so did some jumping in from the side at a few different heights. Nothing big, but once you've been in once, you realise that it's not really cold at all and it's actually quite a nice experience!

Spent the next day at Carreg-y-Barcud doing some fabulous classics. Ethos, Beyond the Azimuth, Stingray - all absolutely brilliant. Seconded a lad on Kitten Claws and the climbing is absolutely flawless. One of the best wall climbs anywhere. One to lead someday. The crag was fantastically atmospheric. A decent swell meant a constantly threatening sea and at one point there was quite a bit of mist around which just added to everything.

A quick hit at Porth-Clais the next day to tick off Dreamboat Annie before the long drive home.

Bliss. Sheer bliss, I tell you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 02, 2016, 11:36:42 pm
Day two in Pennsylvania. Out for a short walk I stumbled on a small locals spot just ten minutes from home. Nice!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 05, 2016, 09:22:13 am
Local's spot for what??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 05, 2016, 11:08:49 am
Amazing two weeks in the Dolomites.  Had fun topping out 700m/17 pitches climbing the North West Arete Via Frishc-Corradini and reaching the top of Pala di Rifugio as the sunset then descending in the dark (should have been firmer with mate who thought it would be worthwhile looking for the cemented rings to abseil by headtorch, needle & haystack!).  Via Finlandia at Cinque Torre was great, but the highlight for me was Fissure Buhl on Cima Canali, put up by Hermann Buhl in the 1950s.  We descendied from half-way up pitch 11 (as recommended in the guide to avoid 200m of scambling and the tedious descent of the Normal Route), this was well timed as thunder started rumbling in the hills around us and as we went down so too did the cloud base.  Got to the bottom safe and sound though and the beer and food at Rifuggio Pradidali was delicious that evening (and every other).

Won't bore anyone with pictures but theres some here (https://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/albums/72157671735412502) if anyone is interested.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: filz on September 05, 2016, 11:56:05 am
Nice slackline and great photos!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 05, 2016, 01:39:34 pm
Eye candy. Brilliant. I miss the mountains.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on September 05, 2016, 03:49:10 pm
Local's spot for what??

Smashing bottles and spraying graffiti primarily but, yeah, some bouldering too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 05, 2016, 03:58:30 pm
Oh well, at least you won't miss the Breck then.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 05, 2016, 04:32:52 pm
Amazing two weeks in the Dolomites.  Had fun topping out 700m/17 pitches climbing the North West Arete Via Frishc-Corradini and reaching the top of Pala di Rifugio as the sunset then descending in the dark (should have been firmer with mate who thought it would be worthwhile looking for the cemented rings to abseil by headtorch, needle & haystack!).  Via Finlandia at Cinque Torre was great, but the highlight for me was Fissure Buhl on Cima Canali, put up by Hermann Buhl in the 1950s.  We descendied from half-way up pitch 11 (as recommended in the guide to avoid 200m of scambling and the tedious descent of the Normal Route), this was well timed as thunder started rumbling in the hills around us and as we went down so too did the cloud base.  Got to the bottom safe and sound though and the beer and food at Rifuggio Pradidali was delicious that evening (and every other).

Nice corner of the world. We started up the Frisch Corradini a couple of weeks ago but then bailed early in the face of rapidly closing-in weather. Did the descent though as the approach to the Wiessner Kees, and I must say I think I would have preferred darkness on the dodgy and exposed via ferrata section.

The Bettega-Scalet on the Sass d'Ortiga also looks amazing for the terrain it covers considering it only has one VI+ pitch. Must go back and do that one day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 05, 2016, 04:39:15 pm
Oh well, at least you won't miss the Breck then.

:D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slackline on September 05, 2016, 04:56:22 pm
Nice corner of the world. We started up the Frisch Corradini a couple of weeks ago but then bailed early in the face of rapidly closing-in weather. Did the descent though as the approach to the Wiessner Kees, and I must say I think I would have preferred darkness on the dodgy and exposed via ferrata section.

We woke in mist which didn't clear as we approached the crag (https://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/28973138880/in/album-72157671735412502/), after 10 minutes of delaying my friend suddenly proclaimed "Blue skies!" and the mist was rapidly burnt off by the rising sun to leave a lovely temperature inversion (https://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/29227203386/in/album-72157671735412502/).  Apparently he thinks I'm good at climbing wet rock so i got sent up the first pitch.  Rock didn't really dry until we were on pitch 4 or 5 and pitch 10 and 11 were still wet too.

After deciding not to bother abseiling we wasted an hour traversing around dodgy slabs trying to work out which way to go until we realised that the descent description meant to climb up the gully we had already  descended into (maybe something was lost in translation), which led us to a good ledge taking us round to the descent down Forcella de Mughe (https://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/28973268400/in/album-72157671735412502/).

The Bettega-Scalet on the Sass d'Ortiga also looks amazing for the terrain it covers considering it only has one VI+ pitch. Must go back and do that one day.

Most of the routes up there look brilliant, the slog up the hill isn't very appealing though (was kind of sick of it half-way through the descent).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 05, 2016, 10:56:11 pm
Just handed my final piece of work in for a professional qualification! Thank fuck for that - a horrible 2 years.

Though after a summer of sitting in every night and not having any weekends it's a bit of an anti climax given everyone is now getting extensions as they left starting it too late. Seems a waste of a summer right now...

Still, least it's over...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on September 06, 2016, 10:46:05 pm
Second visit to Raven Tor today.
Managed my first "proper" 7A on lime. And my second. And my third and fourth. Also, one of them got a "plus". Possibly my best ever 2 hours bouldering. Felt good.

Maybe, just maybe, another 7B isn't out of the question this year....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on September 07, 2016, 07:22:41 am
Yes! Now that's the shit right there! Well done  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on September 07, 2016, 08:23:12 am
That's a blinding effort in yesterday's humid sweaty mess.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on September 07, 2016, 03:50:30 pm
Thanks chaps. Conditions didn't seem too bad - there were people climbing *much* harder stuff at the crag. But this game is all relative and it's great when the pieces fall into place!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 07, 2016, 07:36:46 pm
I've got my mojo back for climbing.   ;D ;D ;D ;D

I went for a hike yesterday with a couple of friends, not really thinking or looking at climbing to an area we had looked at many many years ago and found the single best untouched boulder I've ever seen.  Bullet granite, great features, 12-15 lines, mostly decent landings, aesthetic location, etc...  Looks like a good variety of difficulties, and moderate height to fairly highball...

Can't wait to get back out there to start cleaning and sending.  I'll post up some pics after we get some cleaning done....

Three days of cleaning/climbing on this boulder and it is Amazing!!!!  Without a doubt the single best boulder in Alaska, and I would argue that it could hold it's own for quality almost anywhere in the world.  8 Lines done, 4-5 to go. 

(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/14195228_679814995500551_5945187952566751035_o.jpg)

(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/s960x960/14242355_679814905500560_3745111847201498269_o.jpg)

(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/s960x960/14249735_679815182167199_6992310975178731063_o.jpg)

(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/q82/s960x960/14289938_679815082167209_132465055084720761_o.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 07, 2016, 07:49:20 pm
Brilliant. I need some rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on September 07, 2016, 09:00:59 pm
That does look good
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatdoc on September 08, 2016, 09:38:36 pm
ooohh.. look at me.. scared shitless I would need open shoulder surgery... seen the consultant surgeon today.. tells me probs not needed: my physio appt  for treatment is next weds. High pressure - I usually wait till now in the year  to fulfil the annual  *you can only call yrself a boulderer if u climb a new 7a every year* pre physio appt also done today.. they say.. 6 weeks and you will be rite. soooo relieved! I want my shoulder back!! :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 09, 2016, 07:23:07 am
Nice one fatdoc....will see you out there :)

Elbows permitting, of course. (http://xtremgeek.com/images/smiley/old2.gif)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on September 09, 2016, 08:35:45 am
(https://scontent-amt2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/s480x480/14222338_10157448015200581_986040970716681365_n.jpg?oh=cdf4459cd44f1a26763ca12dcde3061f&oe=58774867)

So after six months of hardly any climbing, the physio has finally got my shoulders and spine stable enough to do some hanging, Get the f**k in!

Not too sure about the strength of the steel that's hanging on but it'll do for now  :smart:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on September 09, 2016, 11:38:22 am
I appreciate this isn't my own personal channel, but....

Biggest tick of the week for me today, longstanding nemesis got taken down.

So happy. Wanted to share the psyche. This has been my best ever week of climbing no doubt. Six 7As ticked, 5 on my new love The Lime (would have been more but for bad/incorrect descriptions in the BMC guide).

But can't let that distract from the fantastic feelings. Grit, Lime, it's all in condition guys - get yourselves stuck in

https://vimeo.com/182070810
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on September 10, 2016, 06:34:11 pm
Went for a late night run.. Just a couple of easy miles around the block.

Found £30  :dance1:

(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8223/28961144414_7110779584_b.jpg)

#Don't go running  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 10, 2016, 07:44:43 pm
That's mine! I recognise the face!
Honest Guv.



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 11, 2016, 04:39:50 pm
Just found out that I got paid for some climbing classes I taught... Here they come my new radiator, CNC machined top steering plate and some other tweaks!
Grinning like a mofo.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 11, 2016, 05:52:59 pm
I appreciate this isn't my own personal channel, but....

Biggest tick of the week for me today, longstanding nemesis got taken down.

So happy. Wanted to share the psyche. This has been my best ever week of climbing no doubt. Six 7As ticked, 5 on my new love The Lime (would have been more but for bad/incorrect descriptions in the BMC guide).

But can't let that distract from the fantastic feelings. Grit, Lime, it's all in condition guys - get yourselves stuck in


Nice one. Sidetrack is grim in summer! good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on September 12, 2016, 10:40:59 am
Thanks tomtom, and for the wad points chaps, to be quite honest the friction felt fine. Tricky but for me at 5'7" was realizing I couldn't do it the way I'd seen others do it - so had to do an extra LH movement before reaching the good RH hold. Am sure I will be lapping it soon, that's how it goes, right? Yesterday's project is tomorrow's warm up  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 15, 2016, 10:38:22 pm
Morrell's Wall - after many failed tries, a change of beta (thanks Ollie) made it seem so easy...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2016, 08:55:42 am
Good tick, classic problem. I think the first thing I ever saw someone at Almscliff do
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 16, 2016, 09:00:20 am
Good tick, classic problem. I think the first thing I ever saw someone at Almscliff do

Cheers - whilst I haven't tried it that much, it's been a proper nemesis. Felt nails compared to everything else I'd done there.
New beta was missing out the shitty crimp completely and rolling over to the better ones higher up. Not quite the proper way but it'll do.

The traverse into it is a lot easier than the problem itself too...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2016, 09:02:11 am
Yeah, I either used that as briefly before going again, or skipped completely.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 16, 2016, 09:29:24 am
The shitty crimp was a lot better until a year or two ago...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2016, 09:44:03 am
Really? Wear or snap?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 16, 2016, 09:45:05 am
The shitty crimp was a lot better until a year or two ago...

Really? :( secret of MW is right foot placement on the crozzly sticky out jug... there's one sweet spot where it's allllll so easy...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 16, 2016, 09:49:40 am
I think something broke off it, probably some shoddy footwork whilst topping out.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 16, 2016, 09:55:53 am
Yes I thought it looked like something has crumbled off at some point...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2016, 10:19:19 am
I think something broke off it, probably some shoddy footwork whilst topping out.

Nae floppy plopping. On wet rock after steel brushing and donkey marking.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on September 27, 2016, 09:37:11 am
First 7A+ on Sunday, and also the first time I've done two 7's in a day  :bounce:
So genuinely exited for this winter. Bloody love this climbing lark  :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on September 29, 2016, 06:36:13 am
Off to Castle Hill first thing tomorrow morning!
3 weeks there!!!  :bounce: :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on September 29, 2016, 08:30:31 am
First 7A+ on Sunday, and also the first time I've done two 7's in a day  :bounce:
So genuinely exited for this winter. Bloody love this climbing lark  :P

Sounds like a great day
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 29, 2016, 08:31:04 am
Off to Castle Hill first thing tomorrow morning!
3 weeks there!!!  :bounce: :bounce:

Enjoy, it's a magical place
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 29, 2016, 09:12:56 am
After a Summer of work and study, with a grand total of two days off, yesterday I regained control. 300 kms of turns!
When my father called me to know if I was in Court, I was here:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8362/29886724972_41e23c9e9b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MwZh6A)image (https://flic.kr/p/MwZh6A) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7667/29706350090_e6c9c57c72_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Mg3NVQ)image (https://flic.kr/p/Mg3NVQ) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

When my girlfriend called me to know if we were going to have lunch together, I was doing this:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5458/29706351900_451f3b8a8a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Mg3Pt3)image (https://flic.kr/p/Mg3Pt3) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5722/29372603384_2bb93961c7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LKygEh)image (https://flic.kr/p/LKygEh) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 29, 2016, 09:31:09 am
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: filz on September 29, 2016, 02:09:30 pm
 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on September 29, 2016, 03:15:12 pm
Glad to see all the hard work paid off. Nice one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 29, 2016, 06:39:14 pm
Cheers guys, it's been a tough Summer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 29, 2016, 07:27:07 pm
Cheers guys, it's been a tough Summer.

So Jealous !!!!

Nice work  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 02, 2016, 12:45:34 pm
YYFY! My girlfriend got me a big punching bag! Already mounted, feels awesome. Bring on the training, one weekly session of boxing and hill sprints should bring good gains!
It's also a perfect way to have a muscular session while giving my forearms some rest.
Mega psyched.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2016, 09:51:15 am
Aurora spotting on the Moray Cost Friday night - Not an incredible display, but visible to the eye. Then sunny dawn surf at Sandend - easy to forget how good the breaks are up there; clear water, clean swells and great setups. A bit busier than when I used to get up there, but not crowded and a good vibe in the water, and caught some great waves. Then mountain biking at Moray Monster Trails - trails damp from rain and grippy but not muddy, dead quiet and some fantastic single track. Then home for Chicken Cassoulet and sweet potato chips. Broken but happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Rocksteady on October 03, 2016, 10:52:00 am
YYFY improved my flash grade massively on holiday in Kalymnos with a F7a+. Previously downgraded from 7b so hopefully a proper 7a+. Alex Megos belayed me which may have helped for psyche! Also equalled my best ever redpoint grade with an anti-style 7b too. Well happy and keen as mustard for some hard training through the winter now and hopefully break my 7b plateau...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 03, 2016, 11:46:16 am
Alex Megos belayed me which may have helped for psyche!

 8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on October 03, 2016, 12:49:19 pm
Vicarious YYFY - Nat finally finished off 50 for 5 yesterday which has been her project since ~1 month into this season. Predictably, after a handful of sessions last-move-itis took hold and that's been the case for 3-4 redpoint attempts every session (>2.5 times a week I'd imagine) up until yesterday.

I can't think of anything worse for the spirit than the crux move as the last move!

I think it only happened as there was a small group of regulars screaming at the top of their voices having not quite managed to finish off their own respective routes. Unfortunately I'm now entrenches in my own mini siege vs. seepage with an impending holiday (:boohoo:).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2016, 01:33:07 pm
Must suck having to go on a holiday somewhere nice and not being able to climb locally.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on October 05, 2016, 12:15:53 am
Finally ended my 10 months of punting,injury,a virulent virus,more injury and feeble fucking self-doubt with my first 7C+ boulder problem...YYFY doesn't even cover how I feel today.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on October 10, 2016, 08:34:38 pm
A year ago I got a ganglion cyst on the side of my finger. Went to the doc because I didn't know what it was; he said it was harmless and might go away spontaneously in a year or so.

Yeah right I though.

Just noticed today that it's gone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on October 14, 2016, 12:40:37 pm
Finally ended my 10 months of punting,injury,a virulent virus,more injury and feeble fucking self-doubt with my first 7C+ boulder problem...YYFY doesn't even cover how I feel today.  ;D

Time for a blog post?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 18, 2016, 09:47:59 am
I had had some good vibes, fingers wise, as of late. Did some tests with half crimp yesterday and I'm well pleased about the results. Left arm is nothing special I think, but a big progress for me in terms of shoulder stability, the weights are paying dividends. Right arm felt very nice.
Now I'll go back to weighted hangs as usual.

https://youtu.be/CyLP17srpf0
https://youtu.be/hpTuaZrJAyY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: standard on October 18, 2016, 10:23:23 am
good effort.
interesting body position compared to me.
I find it easier to be face on to the board when doing 1 arm hangs (with a straight arm)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: standard on October 18, 2016, 10:26:39 am
Some improvements still to make though ;)

https://vimeo.com/163455911#t=1m45s
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 18, 2016, 12:03:29 pm
With respect to the position, I prefer to have my wrist in a neutral position, hence the 90 degrees position to the board. It's also more shoulder friendly for me.
In any case I don't have enough room to stay frontal, because of the door frame.
The downside is that I tend to rotate a lot and have to use the other hand to avoid twisting. This could be avoided by tucking the legs, but again no room for that under a doorframe.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on October 21, 2016, 07:17:35 pm
Today I did my last day of full time work and completed on another house.
Tonight I will mainly be drinking Champagne and eating broccoli.


After that I'll be climbing loads, getting stronger and generally having a smart time  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 22, 2016, 10:09:03 am
You forgot the steak to go along with the broccoli, but apart from that, mega YYFY!
Congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on October 22, 2016, 11:12:53 pm
Just shelled out for a posh travel trailer.  Possibly vacation/work/second home/climbing vacation tool.....  Excited by the possibilities.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on October 23, 2016, 07:43:13 pm
You forgot the steak to go along with the broccoli, but apart from that, mega YYFY!
Congrats!


Cheers  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Rocksteady on October 31, 2016, 07:14:05 pm
Second climbing YYFY of the year! Got my first F7c yesterday breaking a 4 year plateau at F7b.

I don't think I am massively stronger or fitter this year, and I haven't been climbing more. I think I have been training more consistently, and getting injured a bit less. Hopefully the progress train is rolling!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 31, 2016, 07:24:34 pm
Second climbing YYFY of the year! Got my first F7c yesterday breaking a 4 year plateau at F7b.

I don't think I am massively stronger or fitter this year, and I haven't been climbing more. I think I have been training more consistently, and getting injured a bit less. Hopefully the progress train is rolling!

Well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 02, 2016, 01:51:43 pm
Just came back from three amazing days bouldering in the Dolomites.
Perfect conditions with clear blue skies, sun and wind. Just perfect.
Climbed a dozen or so problems in a sector that I'd never visited before, and finished off a project from last year, the problem on which Fultonius heard my power screams. This time it went down Stealth style. 13 months of training have paid off.
Brilliant.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: filz on November 03, 2016, 12:13:17 pm
Grande Lore!!  :clap2: :strongbench:  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 03, 2016, 12:22:01 pm
Grande Lore!!  :clap2: :strongbench:  :2thumbsup:
Grazie Pippo!
Many thanks for the house!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 05, 2016, 07:12:12 pm
I haven't had call to post on this thread but I went up to Barden Fell today and it was stunning. Every time i go up there I feel like a millionaire. It's just stunning. The quality of grit, the crisp clarity of the air, the rolling peat stretching away into the distance.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on November 07, 2016, 09:32:36 am
Superb day on Saturday. Headed to the moor, finally put to bed Dancing Queen (my first 7B!!) then headed over to Easdon Rocks and finished off the Arete
Weather was gorgeous

Then went to Ottery in the evening for Tar Barrels and many beers. Ace day
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2016, 06:00:50 pm
Fucking beautiful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-NWJ9OykJs
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on November 07, 2016, 06:14:05 pm
Amazing Sasquatch - I'm thrilled for you.  My dream escape!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 07, 2016, 06:39:04 pm
That looks amazing!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on November 07, 2016, 07:56:44 pm
Thanks All!

We're pretty excited :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 07, 2016, 10:35:54 pm
Woah!
Brilliant!
:2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 17, 2016, 10:37:10 am
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161117/eb57b1e86a733c98690509da604f2a2f.jpg)

Just leave that there. If you're over 40, you'll understand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 17, 2016, 10:45:29 am
What, you still think you're young enough to get away with wearing Prana??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 17, 2016, 10:49:23 am
You know Prana jeans contain lycra?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 17, 2016, 10:50:36 am
With or without the corset?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on November 17, 2016, 12:12:51 pm
disappointed to see it was made in China.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 17, 2016, 12:32:52 pm
You know Prana jeans contain lycra?

What can I say? I'm a child of the '80s but they won't let me wear my old tights or even my Ron Hills as anything other than underwear. I need some sneaky Lycra in my life...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 17, 2016, 12:34:08 pm
With or without the corset?

#€*~#¥$ off, you're just jealous. [emoji13]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on November 17, 2016, 12:39:44 pm
I have some 32" Prana jeans and they are bigger at the waist than all my 34 " suit trousers.




Before you ask 34's come as standard with a 40" jacket.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on November 18, 2016, 03:34:12 pm
Learnt how to do some basic plumbing and put in new pipework to install a washing machine last week. After 4 months of washing clothes at friends' houses and dragging the lifetime of things out way beyond what's acceptable - it's an amazing feeling.

In addition I got a certificate through today saying I'm officially Chartered. 2 years of exam hell has paid off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 18, 2016, 08:37:25 pm
Learnt how to do some basic plumbing and put in new pipework to install a washing machine last week. After 4 months of washing clothes at friends' houses and dragging the lifetime of things out way beyond what's acceptable - it's an amazing feeling.

In addition I got a certificate through today saying I'm officially Chartered. 2 years of exam hell has paid off.

Could you pass on some tips to Liz and Phil? Save us all, I don't know, £360M or so?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: benno on November 20, 2016, 07:59:07 pm
Just a minor one: Had my first day out climbing on real rock in 13 months and did Gorilla Warfare and Bad Lip at Curbar, so I haven't become entirely useless! YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on November 21, 2016, 05:10:51 pm
Sarko finished finally a bit of good news
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 22, 2016, 12:43:28 am
Tout à fait, mais à sa place je vous donne...Fillon. Ou encore pire... Au moins ce n'est pas Boris, on vous prend toujours au serieux.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on November 22, 2016, 06:34:29 am
D'un bonheur peut naître un malheur.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 23, 2016, 05:45:40 pm
Non climbing but a double header for me this week:
1 - passed my bike test today, BOOM!
2 - I landed a contract to design and build 3 (possibly 4) large-ish sculptural metal centrepieces for the head office of a multi-national company. Properly made up with this.

And it's only Wednesday...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 23, 2016, 06:38:24 pm
Excellent Nik!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 23, 2016, 06:42:35 pm
This is why we need a like button.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on November 24, 2016, 07:36:50 am
Nice one Nik - any ideas on what bike(s) you'll be getting?

I booked the Calais ferry last night and can hopefully put this sorry six months behind me. Boxing Day is bye bye Brexitland and I reckon I can scrimp my way around Spain for three months maybe if I live on vege paella and dreams.

... and breathe.

 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 24, 2016, 09:06:18 am
Already got a hornet but i can definitely feel the desire the desire to get a small collection of choice bikes. I suspect my wife has different feelings...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 24, 2016, 09:09:01 am
And i hope you have a great trip Kelvin  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on November 24, 2016, 09:13:15 am
1 - passed my bike test today, BOOM!

Not literally, I hope.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 24, 2016, 06:06:35 pm
I can scrimp my way around Spain for three months maybe if I live on vege paella and dreams.
 :great:

Dog pasta. A mate used to go away for 6 months at a time in his van loaded to the gunwales with dog pasta. Cheap cheerful and gives you a glossy coat.

Btw vege paella? You may be asked to leave the country.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on November 24, 2016, 07:44:04 pm
I suspect my wife has different feelings...

I left mine for six months once and bought a second bike straight away  :yes:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 25, 2016, 06:39:52 am
turns out that I scored rather well on a "values based" interview at work; so not only do I get to keep my job, but I also get to remain on the part time hours that I want

 :2thumbsup:

the downside of this is that the remaining 4 of us will still be expected to deliver the same results that we were unable to achieve as a team of 6
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on November 25, 2016, 08:02:43 am
the downside of this is that the remaining 4 of us will still be expected to deliver the same results that we were unable to achieve as a team of 6

Climb faster tm
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 25, 2016, 08:49:36 am
the downside of this is that the remaining 4 of us will still be expected to deliver the same results that we were unable to achieve as a team of 6

Climb faster tm

I've instructed my solicitors (Starfish, Sharpe and Lager) to start action with regards to the breach of trade mark. Kindly note that 'climb more on steep boards' is also covered in the 'ignored advice to Shark' package.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on November 26, 2016, 07:16:35 pm
turns out that I scored rather well on a "values based" interview at work; so not only do I get to keep my job, but I also get to remain on the part time hours that I want

 :2thumbsup:

the downside of this is that the remaining 4 of us will still be expected to deliver the same results that we were unable to achieve as a team of 6
You've got to love the good old NHS.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 28, 2016, 10:11:09 am

the downside of this is that the remaining 4 of us will still be expected to deliver the same results that we were unable to achieve as a team of 6

Well bt their thinking, if you were unable to deliver with 6, being unable to deliver with 4 provides the same net result, only with less salary to pay.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on December 01, 2016, 07:52:05 pm
Nodder did his long standing cloggy boulder project!  I'm sure it will turn up in the news section soon enough with grades etc. I'm just made up he was able to bring it to a close after so many years of effort.  Bit of a walk in too..  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on December 02, 2016, 08:17:28 am
Nodder did his long standing cloggy boulder project!  I'm sure it will turn up in the news section soon enough with grades etc. I'm just made up he was able to bring it to a close after so many years of effort.  Bit of a walk in too..  :punk:

From Panton's twitter:

(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CyiMqfDXEAEX41c.jpg:large)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on December 02, 2016, 10:15:03 am
Strong colour combo he's rocking there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on December 02, 2016, 10:32:46 am
Apparently that photo is from 2012, but yes, it is a strong look. Certainly knocks the current fad for yellow/orange trous into a cocked hat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on December 02, 2016, 02:24:27 pm
For once I have some joy to share - I finally redpointed La Crème at Ansteys during a lamp session last night.

At 7c+ it's not a big grade, but it's the hardest route I've done and the one that's taken me the most effort.  I've had probably over a dozen sessions on it spread over two years, including twice falling after the crux.  Barely even a siege by some people's standards, but it felt like one to me given that I normally go trad climbing.

I did it last night on my first redpoint, having not been on it since March.  I can only assume I've got stronger in the meantime!  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2016, 03:15:10 pm
Plus night connies were ill.

Well done, seeps due?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on December 02, 2016, 04:11:31 pm
seeps due?

La Crème never seeps - the driest bit of rock at Ansteys (maybe in all of Devon?).

Next stop La Crème Direct ...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 02, 2016, 04:14:07 pm
Get on it then, nae excuses!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: old cheese on December 03, 2016, 08:31:19 pm
Managed to drag my aged arse up Salle Goose today at turning stone. I am pretty made up!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on December 03, 2016, 09:43:23 pm
Well done that man!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 04, 2016, 07:05:01 am
Managed to drag my aged arse up Salle Goose today at turning stone. I am pretty made up!

In the same black knickers?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: old cheese on December 04, 2016, 08:18:21 am
Managed to drag my aged arse up Salle Goose today at turning stone. I am pretty made up!

In the same black knickers?

They are a little threadbare these day Kelvin. Now sporting a pink velour thong
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on December 05, 2016, 07:54:09 pm
Today, I went to the wall (Chimera) for the first time in, what, ten years? I think I had a functioning board for a bit around 2008, but anyway. At a svelte 107kg, I must've looked like a sack of potatoes with legs. But I did actually manage to haul my engorged carcass up some thing approaching the vertical, and it was jolly good fun. I attribute this burst of enthusiasm in part to viewing the splendid This is Yorkshire, partly to Duncan's inspired Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free, but mostly because of my 5 year old daughter's mini wad abilities at the wall and on the parallel bars. Probably about time to try to figure out a tick list...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 06, 2016, 09:31:04 am
Welcome back O Prodigal One
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 23, 2016, 10:29:55 pm
Some great ''FYs here, especially Kingholmesy on La Créme, and Nodder's wicked strides (and problem).. not really meaning to single them out.

Mine is a little more alternative, but I've just managed to hold my first proper straddle L-sit, if you know what I mean. I've been working on my hip flexibility recently, handstands etc, and this is a nice little reward. Really chuffed  :bounce:  :)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on December 24, 2016, 07:34:55 am
straddle L-sit,  :bounce:  :)

A straddle lurve sit?  :shag:

Nothing wrong with a bit of hip flexibility for those type of shenanigans Dave. Nice work.

I finally finish for my hols today and whilst it's been a bit full on lately, 12/14hrs a day and no days off - I'm catching the ferry on Boxing Day and won't be home till late March.

Adios amigos  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on December 27, 2016, 12:19:28 pm
Went climbing today for the first time in 6 weeks. I lasted 40 mins before my skin started complaining too much and the shoulder started feeling very tired. That said, the shoulder seems to have held up - it's too early to call it a comeback, and I was horribly weak, but I'll take it.

YYFY. I missed climbing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 27, 2016, 12:54:54 pm
[emoji106]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 28, 2016, 07:14:59 am
Great surf yesterday morning to finish off the year. Clear skies, no wind and nice clean lines, not too busy either, only a dozen or so in
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 28, 2016, 10:04:52 am
Finally got back on the BM yesterday for a proper session!
Sacked the weighted hangs for numerous reasons: they are a pain in the ass to set, with the weightvest, plates, cord, harness and all that, and therefore very time consuming; they are dangerous; the hang is hard to control and you swing a lot (unless you're Megos); my elbows and shoulders don't like them anymore.
Instead, I stuck to front3 and back3 half crimps, that are fare simpler and even put a slightly bigger load on the fingers.
Plus, you can fit a nice quick recruitment session basically whenever you can.
Obviously the prehension is not 100% the same as normal 4 fingers half crimp, but very close. So from now on the weights will just be lifted and snatched, not used for fingerboarding anymore.
Found some good improvements also! Very happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on December 29, 2016, 04:36:45 pm
Yesterday I finally climbed my project. I feel as though a huge weight has been lifted from my shoulders. Utterly elated at the top, perfect day, perfect problem. A hard FA at a glorious little crag in a beautiful valley. Even winning the lottery can't get you that!

Blog, details, video etc etc to dribble through in 2017.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on December 30, 2016, 12:23:54 am
Today I've successfully raised my bed by a foot and built some big drawers to go within it. There's now a little jump to get in but it means less living out of bags!!!

Next stop - build bookshelves...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on January 04, 2017, 08:18:18 am
This may seem incredibly trivial but I got 8 hours sleep last night  ;D

I haven't had that much in one night in well over a year, I don't really have an excuse as my two kids both sleep through the night but staying up late has become a really bad habit. Good to finally break the usual 4 - 6 hours a night which is clearly not good for me...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 04, 2017, 08:46:26 am
This may seem incredibly trivial but I got 8 hours sleep last night  ;D

I haven't had that much in one night in well over a year, I don't really have an excuse as my two kids both sleep through the night but staying up late has become a really bad habit. Good to finally break the usual 4 - 6 hours a night which is clearly not good for me...
That sounds great. It's crap when you don't get enough sleep. I only have bouts of insomnia, a night every couple of months (Monday night, I fell asleep at 06:30 for an 07:30 alarm).
Banged out 9 hrs last night with a Diazepam (once a year, after a really shit night, at most)). I find that resets me and I should be good for a while. I hope your "rest" works for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on January 04, 2017, 09:07:53 am
Cheers Matt, I'm pretty sure the lack of sleep is the reason I've ended up injured. Hopefully I'll be able to kick the habit completely.

1hr in a night sounds horrible! Hope you get plenty of rest yourself!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 05, 2017, 02:24:33 pm
Quite happy about this, not especially in terms of weight, but in terms of speed.
I'm also quite happy that I didn't pass out.
https://youtu.be/n6Vz7SljjgA
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on January 19, 2017, 05:37:05 pm
i found some pics from 2000 till about 2008 and its really got me wanting to get out again.
finding myself thinking about it all the time.

i know i will never be able to do the things i did before but that wont be a concern.

come on grit  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 19, 2017, 09:05:13 pm
i know i will never be able to do the things i did before but that wont be a concern.

Ahhh... You say that say that.
But I bet it will be. [emoji12]


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on January 19, 2017, 09:06:53 pm
i found some pics from 2000 till about 2008 and its really got me wanting to get out again.
finding myself thinking about it all the time.

i know i will never be able to do the things i did before but that wont be a concern.

come on grit  :boxing:

 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 20, 2017, 10:15:09 am
Come on Shaz, stop dreaming about getting heavier and get some fresh air!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 21, 2017, 08:46:29 am
i found some pics from 2000 till about 2008 and its really got me wanting to get out again.
finding myself thinking about it all the time.

i know i will never be able to do the things i did before but that wont be a concern.

come on grit  :boxing:
When you get hit by the Call of Rock after a layoff it's shocking and amazing at the same time, innit? Like falling in love for the second time with your girlfriend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 21, 2017, 09:54:28 am
i know i will never be able to do the things i did before but that wont be a concern
In any case, if you get really frustrated you can still start lifting the boulders and changing them of place or tilting them, so that they'll need to make new guidebooks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gus on January 21, 2017, 10:32:58 am
Come on yes!
Shaz is back in the game!!!!   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mark s on January 21, 2017, 11:29:57 pm
now this is motivation...... you can keep your youtube motivational clips
but when people you know say it...it really gets you keen

cheers lads
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on January 22, 2017, 12:09:32 am
 :weakbench: :weakbench: :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on January 22, 2017, 11:43:22 am
I hadn't climbed for over ten years when my wife and her friend suddenly decided to take the kids to the climbing wall. Their decision entirely, I didn't know about it until afterwards. But then I started going along. It felt like coming home.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2017, 05:50:34 pm
Sounds good, how old?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Gus on January 23, 2017, 08:00:05 pm
now this is motivation...... you can keep your youtube motivational clips
but when people you know say it...it really gets you keen

cheers lads

I think you might surprise yourself too in terms of what you can get up, particularly on the grit! Looking forward to it word!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cjsheps on January 23, 2017, 10:40:09 pm
Got a few good YYFYs to post:

1. One of my most fun climbing trips ever ended up with my return flight being delayed for a few hours. They said there wouldn't be compensation, but I requested it anyway. The other day, I got a cheque for 360 pounds - a lot of money for a student! I didn't hold on to it long though, because...

2. I spend almost exactly that sum on a return flight to Yangshuo in autumn - a trip I've been dreaming of doing for years. What's more, I'm going with a friend who I've been wanting to get to know better. YYFY.

3. I never have to do last semester's shitty Particle Physics course again. I did my exam today, and only have one more left before I get on with...

4. My Masters Project. I got my first choice. As of next week, I start trying to couple the Lagrangian for General Relativity to the Higgs scalar field, in a model for Early Universe inflation. YYFY.

(Also have some minor NNFNs, but I'm feeling pretty damn chipper right now. Let's see how the last exam goes).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 24, 2017, 09:17:11 am
I'm going with a "friend" who I've been wanting to get to know better. YYFY.

Uh-huh.

I start trying to couple the Lagrangian for General Relativity to the Higgs scalar field, in a model for Early Universe inflation. YYFY.

I did that on the train this morning, I can post you the fag packet i worked it out on
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cjsheps on January 24, 2017, 09:26:31 am
I did that on the train this morning, I can post you the fag packet i worked it out on

Maybe I exaggerated. It's more a case of "figure out how the hell my supervisor did it, and solve a new set of equations that nobody's looked at yet".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 24, 2017, 01:28:07 pm
I did that on the train this morning, I can post you the fag packet i worked it out on
And then did you wrote on it "cuius rei demonstrationem mirabilem sane detexi. Hanc marginis exiguitas non caperet."?
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 24, 2017, 01:48:43 pm
I did that on the train this morning, I can post you the fag packet i worked it out on

Make sure you cross out the hairy cock and balls you drew first... ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 25, 2017, 12:58:55 pm
I did that on the train this morning, I can post you the fag packet i worked it out on
And then did you wrote on it "cuius rei demonstrationem mirabilem sane detexi. Hanc marginis exiguitas non caperet."?
 ;D

Yep. And Romanes eunt domus
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: J.Kydd on January 31, 2017, 08:37:10 am
In the space of a week we've bought a house and I've just accepted a job offer!
Crikey, I'm growing up  :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 02, 2017, 10:49:02 am
YYFY!!!
First major breakthrough session on the project yesterday!
Despite not feeling 100%, I managed to do all the moves in a session, a thing that had never happened in the past despite some serious effort!
Did the first part (4 moves), then the first crux (2 moves that I've done a grand total of 4 times in three years), then the whole second hald of the problem (6 moves) that is overally much harder than the first half.
Brilliant.
It will still be a nightmare.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 02, 2017, 11:26:00 am
*half
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 06, 2017, 04:36:56 pm
Following last week's YYFY, I am currently out of my tiny naive mind with joy, because for my birthday my friends gave me... A TRAP BAR!!! A FUCKING TRAP BAR!!!
Probably the most versatile power training tool ever conceived!!!
I am about to collect it from none other than Mr. Filz of this parish, and I CAN'T FUCKING WAIT!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 06, 2017, 05:04:14 pm
Got a few good YYFYs to post:

1. One of my most fun climbing trips ever ended up with my return flight being delayed for a few hours. They said there wouldn't be compensation, but I requested it anyway. The other day, I got a cheque for 360 pounds - a lot of money for a student! I didn't hold on to it long though, because...

2. I spend almost exactly that sum on a return flight to Yangshuo in autumn - a trip I've been dreaming of doing for years. What's more, I'm going with a friend who I've been wanting to get to know better. YYFY.

3. I never have to do last semester's shitty Particle Physics course again. I did my exam today, and only have one more left before I get on with...

4. My Masters Project. I got my first choice. As of next week, I start trying to couple the Lagrangian for General Relativity to the Higgs scalar field, in a model for Early Universe inflation. YYFY.

(Also have some minor NNFNs, but I'm feeling pretty damn chipper right now. Let's see how the last exam goes).

Don't to piss in your parade, but Yangshuo is...well....worth doing some research about to make sure you get the best out of it. Luckily you have 3 supplementary YYFYs. E.g. Moon Hill is now banned:  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2427  Some locals said there are newer places not too far away that are potentially better. Can give you the guidebook if you want. (for Yangshuo)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on February 08, 2017, 10:30:40 am
Fontainebleau trip booked for October :punk:  :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cjsheps on February 08, 2017, 11:10:24 am

Don't to piss in your parade, but Yangshuo is...well....worth doing some research about to make sure you get the best out of it. Luckily you have 3 supplementary YYFYs. E.g. Moon Hill is now banned:  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2427  Some locals said there are newer places not too far away that are potentially better. Can give you the guidebook if you want. (for Yangshuo)

I've heard very mixed things about the "ban". It sounds like many people climb there anyway, though I'm not sure how I feel about that. Do you have any names of new sectors?

Thanks very much for the guidebook offer, but I think I'm going to get my own in the long-term.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 08, 2017, 11:34:07 am
I don't have much up to date info - we were the in November 2014 and the ban had only just happened. Mike Owen climbed there the same time and got ushered off by "officials"  http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.co.uk/2014_12_01_archive.html  I liked the area but there's a lot of development going on so it's losing it's rural charm and the climbing ranged from middling to polished/uninspiring. I wouldn't go back.

The new areas were not in Yansgshuo - more like a few hours drive away as far as I remember.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 08, 2017, 11:59:16 am
So fucking happy at the moment.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/714/31966774123_0aea0c722d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QGN5eZ)disco posteriore (https://flic.kr/p/QGN5eZ) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/367/32627629582_be1c721720_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RHc8xC)dischi anteriori (https://flic.kr/p/RHc8xC) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/267/32740177016_462ac01067_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RT8XYC)trap bar (https://flic.kr/p/RT8XYC) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 08, 2017, 05:03:45 pm
A little less happy now...
A few days ago I'd been contacted by one of the Italian language schools I've worked for, to do a month long one to one course to a lady, Saturdays included.
I obviously accepted, and after making a rapid count of how much I was going to earn, I immediately proceeded to order brand new, CNC machined ERGAL triple clamps, and also a custom made trellis frame swingarm for my motorcycle.
Now they've cancelled my course because the lady does not want male teachers, can you believe it!?
And so I'm fucking scr*wed!!!

I accept donations.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 08, 2017, 05:39:00 pm
I would sue on discrimination grounds
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 14, 2017, 04:15:18 pm
An excellent day at Slipstones...

Finally managed to do Sulky Little Boys... been trying this for years and with a bit of thought and some new VSR's it went after about an hour \o/

Managed to do Micro Corner next - then ran out of beans on Lay By Arête...

Lovely.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 14, 2017, 04:48:09 pm
An excellent day at Slipstones...

Finally managed to do Sulky Little Boys... been trying this for years and with a bit of thought and some new VSR's it went after about an hour \o/

Managed to do Micro Corner next - then ran out of beans on Lay By Arête...

Lovely.

Nice.


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on February 15, 2017, 05:29:20 pm
Snuck in a quick session to clean and try a project I found last year.  Outside bouldering in Alaska in February!  I want more of this :) 

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 15, 2017, 05:37:17 pm
With such a climate change denier as a president you will probably get it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on February 15, 2017, 06:17:21 pm
With such a climate change denier as a president you will probably get it.

Likely true :( 

At this point we've had an amazing winter for snow conditions.  In the past with a 9-5 and family I've been too busy to sneak in low percentage winter sessions.  This year I'm trying to get going much earlier in the season than normal.  Since last night, we've gotten 5+ inches of new snow. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 15, 2017, 10:47:07 pm
Crazy winter here, we went from 0 degrees during the day and -7/8 by night to 12 by day and 3 by night in a few days. Already 16 degrees at the board, Monday I was bouldering with two fans on.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on February 16, 2017, 08:25:07 am
Put my first board problem up in about 2 years yesterday. Finger is feeling good!  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 16, 2017, 04:25:14 pm
I'm out of my tiny little naive (and dire at every level) mind with joy, because I have received the first batch of a lot of iron!!!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/339/32121686793_cac13ed4a8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QWu3o6)trap bar e pesi (https://flic.kr/p/QWu3o6) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Today it should have been a rest day, but I don't think it will happen. I think that I will walk into the garage, rip my suit in half, load the bar, deadlift it, walk with it, and then rest.
Brilliant brilliant brilliant. A world of possibilities has been opened, and this world is mine.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 16, 2017, 11:31:19 pm
something odd has happened to that photo - it almost looks like there is a lawn mower in your weights room (on the right), maybe it's just my dodgy screen
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 17, 2017, 09:53:47 am
something odd has happened to that photo - it almost looks like there is a lawn mower in your weights room (on the right), maybe it's just my dodgy screen
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
That's true. Not having a push-sled, I use the lawnmower for push-sprints.
But the future has started, there you go:
https://youtu.be/t57wXZbHDxg
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on February 17, 2017, 11:08:11 am
I want to see a vid of nibs beating the shit out of that punchbag... :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 17, 2017, 11:12:01 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCJC7kK6Pko
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 17, 2017, 11:39:14 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 17, 2017, 04:43:10 pm
So, following my PB last week, I just upped my game and managed 3 sets of 8 reps of weighted ring press-ups at 119kg at the wrists.
Why this makes me so happy, is a mystery, but it does.




All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Iesu on February 17, 2017, 10:39:22 pm
An excellent day at Slipstones...

Finally managed to do Sulky Little Boys... been trying this for years and with a bit of thought and some new VSR's it went after about an hour \o/

Managed to do Micro Corner next - then ran out of beans on Lay By Arête...

Lovely.

Choice!

I dream of failure on Layby AFTER such success!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 17, 2017, 10:56:08 pm
I have come so close to Layby Arete on so many occasions that I now feel it is one of those problems I am fated never to do. 

A key problem is that I have two sequences for the big move to the good high holds that feel equally possible - smearing on the arete and heel-hootkng with the LF,  or a tenuous RF heel hook of the flake handhold to the right.  Invariably, I have always got close with one method, given up, changed to the other metthod, got equally close (fingers brushing but not latching the target), and then run out of gas no wiser as to the solution I should pursue.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 17, 2017, 11:32:41 pm
So, following my PB last week, I just upped my game and managed 3 sets of 8 reps of weighted ring press-ups at 119kg at the wrists.
Matt, I have no idea of what you're talking about, but it does sound good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 18, 2017, 12:11:59 am
For some reason, I can't upload video anymore and I only have cctv of todays effort anyway.
This is a still from last Friday, the hanging weight clipped to the weight vest was 10kg heavier this week. So, pictured is 109kg.
(I have a load cell on a TRX to check weight). The rings are actually 3cm lower than the bench, camera angle is misleading. The weight varies during the motion. It's ~10kg less at full extension. The vest, belt, hanging weights, gear and me; weight 130kg on the scales.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/54b57ea8ee65f4ef7a245209d819d9f7.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 18, 2017, 08:49:22 am
Nutter. I particularly love all the over-engeneering!
 ;D
Anyway, just to show that I am no less nutter, I see your ring push ups and raise with my variation of the Litvinov protocol.
http://youtu.be/OKnepMsIxo0
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 18, 2017, 10:26:19 am
Yeah, it takes some logistics, but they're so much better than Benchpress; requiring the holding of a plank during the movement.
It stresses the posterior chain hugely and not just the Pec/Triceps combo. The instability of the rings make the shoulders work like buggery. Just about every antagonist wrapped up in one exercise.

Oh, and, Nutter!
But keep your guard up.


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 18, 2017, 12:22:34 pm
It surely looks like a very good full body excercise!
Oh, and, Nutter!
But keep your guard up.
Ahaha, cheers Matt!
I know, but when I do boxing Tabatas or Litvinovs I have to just concentrate on speed and rithm of the punches, and keeping a high guard would be detrimental to this.
Otherwise yes, I keep my guard up, although I have to admit that all my boxing training isn't aimed at all at any kind of fighting, it's just an excellent power/speed routine that fits perfectly my needs.
But yes, sometimes I train combinations and I try to have good technique, I move after punching, I dip, move my torso, change stance, like one would do in a fight.
I admit that the idea of stepping into a ring terrifies me. I don't feel like I'm that kind of guy... Of course in the past I've been into fights, but I've always regretted it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 18, 2017, 04:00:21 pm
I have come so close to Layby Arete on so many occasions that I now feel it is one of those problems I am fated never to do. 

A key problem is that I have two sequences for the big move to the good high holds that feel equally possible - smearing on the arete and heel-hootkng with the LF,  or a tenuous RF heel hook of the flake handhold to the right.  Invariably, I have always got close with one method, given up, changed to the other metthod, got equally close (fingers brushing but not latching the target), and then run out of gas no wiser as to the solution I should pursue.

I've only had (incomplete) success with the rf smearing on the arête and lf hooking around the corner..

my lf (first proper move) on the crappy arête smear was completely solid on tues - normally it's a complete fight, so bit annoyed I wasn't able to make more of the excellent conditions...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 19, 2017, 03:02:14 pm
YYFY!.... got wood: 40 overhanging degrees of crimping, pinching and undercuts.  The excellence of the construction is Mr Crusher's, and defects in the design are mine.

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-0/p526x296/16722713_10206331877696055_8909840273100167210_o.jpg?oh=98e32690325fbbddfb2f73dd8452c37d&oe=594579DA)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 19, 2017, 05:20:14 pm
 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 19, 2017, 05:23:15 pm
Looks classy. Sort of board I could sit under with a decent single malt.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 19, 2017, 05:24:48 pm
Looks classy. Sort of board I could sit under with a decent single malt.

:D [emoji106]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sxrxg on February 19, 2017, 05:38:21 pm
Out of interest how much does Mr crusher charge for such a thing of beauty?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on February 19, 2017, 06:02:54 pm
Out of interest how much does Mr crusher charge for such a thing of beauty?

http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds

 :google:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 19, 2017, 06:16:05 pm
Out of interest how much does Mr crusher charge for such a thing of beauty?

Feel vaguely ashamed to air how much I was willing to pay because of my laziness and incompetance to make one myself.  In any event, I imagine Probes' quotes depend largely on your particular size requirements (that's 1.5m wide, 2.6 m high, 40 degree overhanging - so around 3.2 metres of actual climbing length).  Maybe best to just PM Probes if you are interested - I got the impression it's a part of his trade he is looking to expand.

But suffice to say I was more than happy to pay what he asked (Christmas bonus buring a hole in my pocket), and am very happy with the result.  It's really nicely constructed - Paul came around and installed it too - took very little time as all the panels and supports slotted together very precisely and smoothly.  I would have wasted so much time, materials, and money doing a botch job myself - and the result would either have been shit, or collapsed and killed me.  Just got to add a few Bleaustone resin finger-jugs for warming up / loops for an-cap - as it is, it's pretty vicious and fingery. 

Slightly better angle showing the proper steepness:

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16830936_10206332811319395_1523478705011352590_n.jpg?oh=178979187a0cc7dbee47819e942f5621&oe=58FEEF04)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 25, 2017, 08:37:57 pm
Tuesday I went out for the first time in a couple of months and found a cool new bouldering with a very nice line. I did the stand but the sit is going to be a good project (possibly too hard for me?) and then Thursday I gave a paper at Johns Hopkins in Baltimore, which is a pretty big deal in my world. Oh, and Friday afternoon I got married.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on February 25, 2017, 08:57:48 pm
Tuesday I went out for the first time in a couple of months and found a cool new bouldering with a very nice line. I did the stand but the sit is going to be a good project (possibly too hard for me?) and then Thursday I gave a paper at Johns Hopkins in Baltimore, which is a pretty big deal in my world. Oh, and Friday afternoon I got married.

Only a minor yyfy at the end their Andy... ;) :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 25, 2017, 10:54:57 pm
Congrats on all of them!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 25, 2017, 11:10:08 pm
Amazing news Andy, congratulations!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 26, 2017, 07:48:29 am
Brilliant news Andy!


All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 26, 2017, 10:27:55 am
What a week! Congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yoof on February 26, 2017, 11:04:43 am
Got meself an offer of a PhD at Bangor! Beyond-psyched is my current level of emotion  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 26, 2017, 05:27:18 pm
Got meself an offer of a PhD at Bangor! Beyond-psyched is my current level of emotion  ;D

Result!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 26, 2017, 08:43:51 pm
climbing and studying, not a bad combo. Well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on February 26, 2017, 10:51:25 pm
A few YYFYs - nothing life-altering compared to other posts on this thread, but still, it's been an unusual week by my normal standards.

Had a needle aponeurotomy on my Dupuytren's on Friday. Not a pleasant start to the weekend: up at 5am for what felt like losing a game of peanuts in prolonged and painful fashion, whilst having my hand stabbed (nasty despite local anaesthetic).

But cheered myself in the evening by re-setting my new woodie with extra holds that arrived that day (including tufas!).  A day of rest and since the swelling had died down... had a possibly ill-advised session today. Absolutely brilliant, a couple of hours has left me utterly worked but very happy. Devised a couple of stern warm-ups and two really conpelling, hopefully long-term projects. Resisting temptation to move footholds etc to make things easier - figure it'll defeat the entire point of the woodie: a lifetime of mid-week beatings! Nice to be able to near fully crimp with my left hand. If the needle op buys me a few years abeyance I'll be happy.

Oh, and used the Saturday lay-off to fix my dripping kitchen sink tap, and rectify my shower... Surgery, woodie, and plumbing.... the triple crown!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on February 27, 2017, 06:24:50 pm
Got meself an offer of a PhD at Bangor! Beyond-psyched is my current level of emotion  ;D

Excellent news! Made up for you mate  :dance1: See you at the Varsity next year  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on February 28, 2017, 10:20:58 pm
Just booked Rocklands flights! See you UKB lads out there  :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on March 01, 2017, 03:34:05 am
Congrats all (Especially Andy - what a week!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on March 02, 2017, 06:57:53 am
First BM session of the year and tried the newly updated BM app. Completed the 5A circuit for the first time in my life. Ok so I think a hold broke off cos it was easier than I remember but, finally, after years of trying off and on, I finally overcame the pump and completed this grueling stamina test. Get in!
 :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 02, 2017, 08:17:42 am
Come on!
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on March 02, 2017, 12:33:59 pm
First BM session of the year and tried the newly updated BM app. Completed the 5A circuit for the first time in my life. Ok so I think a hold broke off cos it was easier than I remember but, finally, after years of trying off and on, I finally overcame the pump and completed this grueling stamina test. Get in!
 :weakbench:
Nice one Murph. This mirrors exactly my day yesterday!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 07, 2017, 04:30:01 pm
Passed my bike test! (which is a good thing as I spent a lot of money on something very silly last week in anticipation)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 07, 2017, 06:14:37 pm
Get in
(And details of the something silly please)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 08, 2017, 08:05:44 am
pics on motorbike pr0n this eve :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 13, 2017, 04:44:32 pm
I booked flights and ferry for the Tourist Trophy!!!
So fucking excited!!!
 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
 :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 13, 2017, 04:47:02 pm
Stop at Parisellas? Day climbing with nik at work?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 13, 2017, 05:09:05 pm
Ahahahah! Who knows?
Climbing at Parisellas and watching the TT live in the same holiday? My poor heart would explode with joy!!!
Jokes apart, I don't think that I'll have the time. I'm flying to Stansted so I'll be busy catching a train to Liverpool. Ferry at 20:00.
While on the Island though...  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 14, 2017, 10:43:51 pm
YYFY
I am going to meet Lore  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 22, 2017, 05:25:27 pm
Very YYFY about this:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3735/32770855083_33056fd69f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RVRcuP)image (https://flic.kr/p/RVRcuP) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 22, 2017, 05:35:27 pm
YYFY
I am going to meet Lore  :)

I had the pleasure of meeting Lore in his home town. Its when you get opportunities like that that UKB starts to feel a little special. Mind you,I think my daughter was somewhat bemused by the whole scenario.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 22, 2017, 05:47:49 pm
 ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 22, 2017, 06:03:41 pm
How much weight is that Nibs?

I'm going to have to put some serious effort into training before you arrive....

What are you like at loose, poorly protected trad? ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 22, 2017, 06:05:05 pm
YYFY
I am going to meet Lore  :)

I had the pleasure of meeting Lore in his home town. Its when you get opportunities like that that UKB starts to feel a little special. Mind you,I think my daughter was somewhat bemused by the whole scenario.

Exactly, currently in the early stages of planning a trip to Austria with a UKBer... It's a small world.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 22, 2017, 06:39:29 pm
How much weight is that Nibs?

What are you like at loose, poorly protected trad? ;D
It's 10 kg.
I am like one who watches you climb while sipping beer!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 22, 2017, 06:43:12 pm
 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on March 23, 2017, 01:01:08 pm
Let us know when you'll be getting in to Liverpool so we can have a welcoming party to escort you to the ferry terminal Lore!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2017, 01:37:09 pm
Brilliant!
I should be at Stansted quite early in the morning, flight is at 6:40 am... Then I'll catch a train to London and then to Liverpool.
If all planets align I'll have a few hours before the 20:00 ferry to meet a few scousers!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 23, 2017, 01:43:26 pm
Let us know when you'll be getting in to Liverpool so we can have a welcoming party to escort you to the ferry terminal Lore!

I'm envisioning a parade a Scouse boulderers, Lore aloft on their shoulders, marching down from Lime Street to the waterfront. That would be a sight to see.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2017, 01:48:52 pm
Upon our arrival, I'm expecting to find the ferry terminal adorned with gigantic staues of myself so magnificent as to make Ramses II wake up from his sleep.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 23, 2017, 02:21:39 pm
Brilliant!
I should be at Stansted quite early in the morning, flight is at 6:40 am... Then I'll catch a train to London and then to Liverpool.
If all planets align I'll have a few hours before the 20:00 ferry to meet a few scousers climb at Pex!


 :rtfm: :chair: :goodidea:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on March 23, 2017, 03:50:25 pm
 :lol:

Quote
I'm envisioning a parade a Scouse boulderers, Lore aloft on their shoulders, marching down from Lime Street to the waterfront. That would be a sight to see.

This is exactly what I had in mind :)

What date Lore?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2017, 04:11:22 pm
Tuesday, March the 6th.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on March 23, 2017, 04:19:45 pm
Assuming you mean May?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 23, 2017, 04:43:50 pm
Jesuschrist I need a vacation.
Sorry, Tuesday the 6th of June.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on March 24, 2017, 08:23:14 am
I will be there :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 24, 2017, 09:49:25 am
 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2: :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on March 24, 2017, 10:18:11 am
This might be sacrilege but...

I think I'm more excited about meeting Lore than I am about the TT.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 24, 2017, 11:31:14 am
 ;D ;D
Now I feel under pressure!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 28, 2017, 04:10:44 pm
Had an amazing week in Font. My credentials as a card carrying weakling punter are absolutely beyond question but, for me, based on my own expectations of my own performance, I feel like I smashed it - a feeling I haven't had on the boulders in ages. I had a goal in mind for the trip to climb a 7B. Highlights included:
le Carre d' As - 6C+ - Highball wall next to Duroxmanie. You have to lock a two handed crimp down to your waist and carefully stand up on a pair of little foot smears, one of which is a bit shit and blind. You have to properly get all your weight over your feet and then go groping around the arête to find a 2 finger dink-crimp with which to get stood up and your feet established. It's amazing.

Having a great day at Isatis flashing Rataplat (7B) and Boule des Nerfs (7A+). Both soft for the non-midget and both crap problems, but good to come away with flashes. Also doing La Memel (7A+) and laying El Poussif (7A+) to rest and then finishing the day with Kangaroo City (7B).

Doing Carnage one morning at an otherwise deserted Cuvier (literally nobody else at the crag except for my mate). Went back later in the trip to do the static start (7B+) which was equally enjoyable.

Flashing both sides of l'Angle Allain (it's a great feeling to be officially Better Than Ondra).

Abbatoir (7A+) at Cuvier. WHAT A PROBLEM!

Visited Petit Bois and Rocher Greau on the last day and did some brilliant problems. Laid La Baleine (7A) to rest after a shambolic performance two years ago. Also did the direct to the right which is a terrible problem and morpho but adds another 7B to the list. Then found an amazing dyno - Les Poids des Soupirs (7B) near Paddy. Patience Yago (7A) at Rocher Greau was a nice one to finish with, though not skin friendly and baking in the sun!

Apologies for the wanky post with grades included for added wankiness, but it was brilliant. YYFY!

https://vimeo.com/210255128
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 28, 2017, 07:26:28 pm
nice one Will

I had my own YYFY experience out bouldering today

on a sequence of my own devising, on a problem I had not previously tried, I found myself moving up the rock in a manner which far exceeded the amount of effort I was putting in

not had that for a while
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 30, 2017, 09:42:29 pm
When I realised the pain in my foot wasn't the "normal" pain etc and it was diagnosed as a fairly advanced  osteoarthritis; I thought my endurance race ambitions were toast. When I'd just started to think I'd got around that, a rapidly growing lump in my mouth and some very rapid surgery two weeks ago ( looks benign, apparently, get the biopsy result on Monday, reckon the alarm bells would have gone off by now had it been otherwise) and I thought I was out for the count.

But, I was back Training two days after the op and last week started running again. Then today, I ran this, with the full 20kg (thats a full 70ltr exped pack with 20ltr chest pouch, no "artificial" weight allowed, only useful kit) and only stopped because I ran out of time!

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/3fae454c165f000d2f9a42e154eedc31.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/91e0b3e5bc8d2e9abdadb00feebeab9f.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 01, 2017, 02:19:41 am
Some great YYFYs there, though especially for you OMM "I thought my endurance race ambitions were toast" is kind of worth a toast on it's own  ;) No, seriously, that's tremendous stuff. I especially like the little text box "Nice work! Run this route again to see how you're progressing"  :lol:

On a different note..

Midnight Lighting!!  8)

I turned up at Broomgrove wall at 10.30pm about a week ago, to find that someone had worked out a great solution to the lighting - but that's as much info as you're getting  ;) Bingo!

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3679/33723323276_7a28061355_b.jpg)

Not me climbing. Hi Ben and Jake!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 01, 2017, 10:21:53 am
Solid run Matt!  I had a hard enough time running 14k with only my own lardass to drag around. That was longest run yet foe me and the lass. My toe has nearly recovered now.

Had a mini YYFY at Ratho yesterday. I've consciously been avoiding redpointing indoors - just doing laps of onsight level and just above. Yesterday it was quiet and a mate was down from Aberdeen so we had a good onsighting session with plenty of rest. Decided to have a go on a 7c that some guys I know have been working on recently. Fr7c onsight is my long...long...term vague sport-climbing ambition. Well, I failed.

What? Yep. But I gave it a really good go, climbed well and got to the 14th of 17 clips, through all the cruxes and just ran out of steam. Very promising! Indoors I know, but still, progress! Second go I fell one move lower, took a short rest and climbed to the top.

I can still only do 10 pull-ups...  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 01, 2017, 10:25:45 am
https://vimeo.com/210255128

Loving the little micro-toe dance propulsion for the final mantle.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 02, 2017, 10:00:05 pm
Had another one today. Young Footwork and I pulled up at the parking for Brandrith in a thin drizzle. We umm'ed and ah'ed for a bit before deciding to walk in. An hour later Heaven In Your Hands was in the bag!
New bit of beta from Olly Parkinson. Keeping the same sequence as usual with the right foot smearing near the arete and left foot cocked around it. But instead of doing the hard deadpoint move to the right hand crimp (something I've never stuck before) straight away, you bump your right hand to the higher undercut and then go for the right hand crimp. This makes the move static and makes the whole thing much steadier!

Then Footwork did it. He didn't even give me the satisfaction of watching him fail after I'd done it, he just did it next go.

Pondering the grade afterwards, I mooted, "with that new sequence that might not even be out of place at 7B+", to which Footwork simply said "oh fucking hell, here we go".
 :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 02, 2017, 11:00:10 pm
Gratz on your first 7B+ whatever that means. And more so, a classic problem despite an initially unpromising start to the day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on April 04, 2017, 11:36:11 pm
Perfect day out yesterday.  Warmed up at home, then headed out.  Re-warmed up at the boulder. Then managed a send of a new 8A/+, a new 8A, and a repeat of an old 8A I put up from 2011. 

Defo best single day I've ever had.  Gotta love it when the stars align...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lemony on April 05, 2017, 09:29:11 am
Slightly late as this is over a week old but YYFY for my girlfriend (for whom climbing does not come naturally) getting her first 6A, immediately declaring it soft and demanding to know where the guide was so she could pick out something harder.

It didn't feel soft to me...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 05, 2017, 10:01:29 am
Loving the YYFY thread at the moment!

Minor one in the grand scheme but a biggie for me - I went out and ran 10k this morning! Been building up to it since giving up smoking properly back in August and starting couch to 5k after Christmas. Always hated running before but now realise I'd always approached it wrongly - loving it at the moment!

Was late for work as a result but sat at my desk buzzing now  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on April 05, 2017, 10:17:50 am
Loving the YYFY thread at the moment!

Minor one in the grand scheme but a biggie for me - I went out and ran 10k this morning! Been building up to it since giving up smoking properly back in August and starting couch to 5k after Christmas. Always hated running before but now realise I'd always approached it wrongly - loving it at the moment!

Was late for work as a result but sat at my desk buzzing now  :boxing:

Really pleased to read all of this mate. Jacking in the evil bifters will be the best thing you've ever done. Really hoping you keep up the psyche and come off piste with me soon. No funny stuff though.....

Also, massively inspiring story: http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/get-inspired/27994073
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 05, 2017, 10:50:50 am
Psyche is high in these parts at the moment.

immediately declaring it soft and demanding to know where the guide was so she could pick out something harder.

She'll go far.


Si, your one is a biggie, full stop. Well done, mate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 05, 2017, 11:50:00 am
Loving the YYFY thread at the moment!

Minor one in the grand scheme but a biggie for me - I went out and ran 10k this morning! Been building up to it since giving up smoking properly back in August and starting couch to 5k after Christmas. Always hated running before but now realise I'd always approached it wrongly - loving it at the moment!


Well done mate. Like I said, beware it's a slippery slope! I'm doing first half marathon in 30 years in August and signed up for the Ring of Steall 29km Skyline race (which i expect I'll deeply regret).

Partner managed 3:39 for Manchester Marathon on Sunday, so YYFY on her behalf. Downside is it's a good for age automatic qualifier for several of the big marathons around the world. So I don't think this is the end of it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 05, 2017, 03:07:02 pm
Perfect day out yesterday.  Warmed up at home, then headed out.  Re-warmed up at the boulder. Then managed a send of a new 8A/+, a new 8A, and a repeat of an old 8A I put up from 2011. 

Defo best single day I've ever had.  Gotta love it when the stars align...

Great day!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 05, 2017, 04:30:42 pm
Great day Sasq!!!
For my part, it's been a good day as well: we've won an appeal and all the legal expenses, plus I've been contacted by a school for two weeks of teaching. Money that I'll spend on my motorcycle, and the rest I'll squander.
But most of all... I've ordered a Lattice Edge.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on April 06, 2017, 08:08:38 am
Today's weigh in has revealed that I've lost 15kg since the start of January.

Was getting a bit worried as it had tailed off last week, so gave things a bit of extra effort over the past few days.

Still got at least another 10kg to go, but things are looking good...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 09, 2017, 09:26:35 pm
Youngest Daughter (8) bagged her first outdoor (and second ever) lead today, on Sunseeker (f2) at Sharbutts on Portland.
Bottled it on the first clip at the first attempt, but when her (Quasi) twin brother (3 weeks older) bottled it on the second clip, the competitive little madam came back firing all guns through to the chains.
Brother had a hissy and stormed off...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170409/d07ea4dda2bbbbc30a09baa6cebbb6d4.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 09, 2017, 10:33:28 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 10, 2017, 01:34:37 pm
Quote
Pondering the grade afterwards, I mooted, "with that new sequence that might not even be out of place at 7B+",

I don't want to piss on any chips but I did think 7c+ was very generous.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on April 10, 2017, 02:00:01 pm
Quote
Pondering the grade afterwards, I mooted, "with that new sequence that might not even be out of place at 7B+",

I don't want to piss on any chips but I did think 7c+ was very generous.

I think the FA was done with a pretty whack sequence and everyone now does it with better beta. Nonetheless, there are still plenty of people who happily take the 7C+ tick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 10, 2017, 06:47:09 pm
Quote
Pondering the grade afterwards, I mooted, "with that new sequence that might not even be out of place at 7B+",

I don't want to piss on any chips but I did think 7c+ was very generous.

I think the FA was done with a pretty whack sequence and everyone now does it with better beta. Nonetheless, there are still plenty of people who happily take the 7C+ tick.

That's because people who question grades of relatively new problems are generally hounded for being "willy wavers". I think everyone knows it's 7C (could possibly go to top end 7B+ with the new beta, especially when you compare it to the likes of Crystal Method and Secret Seventh) but nobody wants to change it and, to be honest, there isn't really an "official" means of changing it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on April 13, 2017, 07:03:05 pm
That's because people who question grades of relatively new problems are generally hounded for being "willy wavers". I think everyone knows it's 7C (could possibly go to top end 7B+ with the new beta, especially when you compare it to the likes of Crystal Method and Secret Seventh) but nobody wants to change it and, to be honest, there isn't really an "official" means of changing it.

I personally wouldn't disagree with 7C for HIYH, I'll freely admit to having basically been over-excited about doing it and just 'took it' without questioning whether it felt right for me. That said, I do understand it to be easier for the taller/lankier climber and therefore wouldn't take issue with people taking 7C+. If that remains as the consensus then fair enough. I think it's difficult to essentially criticise people for taking a grade which may have felt right for them.

Leading on, I think your comparison is interesting; I personally think Secret Seventh is incredibly soft and would sit right at 7A+. I did it third go and have since run several laps over a couple of sessions without falling off. However the grade consensus on UKC seems to be trending towards hard 7B+ or even 7C when in my mind there's no way SS is anywhere near as hard as HIYH. Bizarre, but that's how it is.

Crystal Method of course is brick hard and I totally fluked it.

Whatever the grade for HIYH, well done. It's one of the best problems on grit stone in my opinion.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 13, 2017, 09:58:18 pm
I think everyone knows it's 7C...but nobody wants to change it

Sorry, must have had trapped wind when I wrote that. Not meant as a dig at any individual, but I do still think we should be challenging grades more where they're commonly believed to be off the mark.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 15, 2017, 04:31:17 pm
Woot!  I've finally put my MSc to good use, thrown away the oily shackles of the hydrocarbon industry and bagged myself a job as a Renewable Energy Asset Engineer. 10 minute cycle from the flat to the office, good guys to work with from initial impressions. Chuffed and hungover  :icon_beerchug:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 15, 2017, 04:34:23 pm
 :icon_beerchug:

Sounds superb, bravo!

I managed to land myself a full time job after 5 years self employed, working with some great lads and only a 10 minute bike ride away like you (bit longer on way back mind, uphill!)

Hip hip hooray!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 15, 2017, 05:05:05 pm
Awesome!  It also 5 years since I was in full time employment.  :whistle:  Might be a bit of a shock to the system.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 17, 2017, 10:02:07 pm
Ahahah I don't need no stinkin' Nalle's epic video, today I've felt the strongest ever on my project, that I've been trying for more than four years now! I have spent the entire season, from October on, just on those two panels.
So so YYFY!
Today, with the original sequence:
http://youtu.be/XQEZGxxGg4c
One year ago, with an added hold for the crux swing move:
https://youtu.be/R0Ckmgi7fcI
Fucking worth one year of training!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 18, 2017, 12:51:02 am
Borderline YYFY. Dolph just did the first repeat of an old Pex problem of mine and said it probably scrapes in at 8A. One thing's for sure, that is the only chance I'll ever have of climbing that grade. Still don't quite feel like I can take it though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on April 18, 2017, 09:05:31 am
Def counts Andy, nice one!

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on April 18, 2017, 09:43:10 am
Borderline YYFY. Dolph just did the first repeat of an old Pex problem of mine and said it probably scrapes in at 8A. One thing's for sure, that is the only chance I'll ever have of climbing that grade. Still don't quite feel like I can take it though.

How long has it remained unrepeated? OF COURSE you take the 8A, as people get less and less good at Pex style climbing it can only get harder.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 18, 2017, 10:13:57 am
Which problem is it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on April 18, 2017, 11:12:16 am
Grim Up North West - Shothole Traverse into North West Overhang SS
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 18, 2017, 11:41:53 am
Can't be 8a those footholds are bleedin' bivvy ledges! :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 18, 2017, 12:13:10 pm
I've not done NW Overhang Sit, but I have done the stand. Having seen Mike's vid, I don't think I recognise his beta for when he gets into the stand. I'm sure I had my feet higher than that and then had to drop a foot down once I had got the handholds? Mike keeps his feet really low. Might not be so soft for shorter people?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 18, 2017, 12:18:24 pm
I've not done NW Overhang Sit, but I have done the stand. Having seen Mike's vid, I don't think I recognise his beta for when he gets into the stand. I'm sure I had my feet higher than that and then had to drop a foot down once I had got the handholds? Mike keeps his feet really low. Might not be so soft for shorter people?

Jesus fucking christ Will.. REMEMBER the rules of Tall Average-Height Club...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 18, 2017, 12:55:31 pm
Having seen Mike's vid,

Where's this? thanks
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 18, 2017, 01:20:04 pm
Mike put it up on Facebook. Not sure if you'll be able to see it unless you're mates with him or Andy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on April 18, 2017, 01:24:43 pm
Ah okay, thanks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 20, 2017, 05:46:30 am
Yesterday, I don't how, I managed to resist the urge to put my brand new Lattice Edge to test and in a massive clash of power, coincidence and determination I fucking climbed my fucking board project.
Four fucking years and more. Seems unreal. This season I've been trying it since mid December. Just this fucking beauty.
Felt so fucking easy dammit, I didn't even celebrate as usual. I only ran around the house jumping with arms to the sky.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 20, 2017, 07:10:21 am
Your very own Burden of Dreams! (Boarden of Dreams?!)

Well done that man!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 20, 2017, 09:17:08 am
Wow, the world's first 9A, then only a few months later, the world gets its first 9A+!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: monkoffunk on April 20, 2017, 10:07:38 am
Any send footage?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on April 20, 2017, 11:08:06 am
Any send footage?

Give it time, I hear Nibs is busy recording dice shots and card throwing sequences against a moody black background.

Seriously though...please say there is footage!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 20, 2017, 11:18:25 am
Any send footage?

Means you've gorra do it again Nibs... :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 20, 2017, 12:47:12 pm
You crack me up guys!  ;D
No send footage unfortunately, to be honest I wasn't expecting to climb it! Felt a bit empty after the warm up!
It's only two more moves after the video I posted a few days ago.
Anyway I'll try to repeat it. Or maybe not. Buy I'll film it, after four years  it deserves some more effort I guess.
I called it Spanish Bombs after the Clash's song.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 21, 2017, 04:11:13 pm
Just did a 142kg pull up and 3x3 ring press ups @ 142kg. And 3x3 140kg deadlifts (and they were easy, need to buy more plates).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on April 22, 2017, 09:49:31 pm
Had my most successful day bouldering ever at the Roaches today, including what's possibly my first 7a since 2013. :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on April 23, 2017, 09:17:07 am
Had my most successful day bouldering ever at the Roaches today, including what's possibly my first 7a since 2013. :D

 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 23, 2017, 12:54:15 pm
Good numbers the both of you!
 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 23, 2017, 06:33:29 pm
Redpointed my first 7b today, on a day when I debated whether it was worth bothering to go out at all because the last week has been so cold & grey.

Boulder problem start, half a dozen steep powerful moves on small pockets to a jug at the second bolt then the rest is about easy 6b. But whatever; you have to start somewhere.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 23, 2017, 06:58:06 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on April 23, 2017, 07:31:45 pm
Redpointed my first 7b today, on a day when I debated whether it was worth bothering to go out at all because the last week has been so cold & grey.

Boulder problem start, half a dozen steep powerful moves on small pockets to a jug at the second bolt then the rest is about easy 6b. But whatever; you have to start somewhere.

well done, well deserved
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: the_dom on April 24, 2017, 08:17:40 am
Redpointed my first 7b today, on a day when I debated whether it was worth bothering to go out at all because the last week has been so cold & grey.

Boulder problem start, half a dozen steep powerful moves on small pockets to a jug at the second bolt then the rest is about easy 6b. But whatever; you have to start somewhere.

Boom! Nice work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on April 24, 2017, 10:19:51 am
Not a big number YYFY but had a fantastic morning pottering at Stanage on Saturday. Work, life, illness, kids etc have lead to only getting outside twice in the past 12 months so a morning's soloing on the lovely classics of the Popular end in the sunshine with the clanging of hex bells in the background and the distant calls of, "climb when ready" and "watch me!" were just the ticket to get the psyche flowing......
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 24, 2017, 11:50:05 am
Redpointed my first 7b today, on a day when I debated whether it was worth bothering to go out at all because the last week has been so cold & grey.

Boulder problem start, half a dozen steep powerful moves on small pockets to a jug at the second bolt then the rest is about easy 6b. But whatever; you have to start somewhere.

Fantastisch!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2017, 11:53:03 am
4:30:27 chip time for Loch Ness Etape. 105 km, 1070 m ascent. Actually didn't find it too hard, riding in groups on closed roads is so much easier than my usual solo rides. Thinking about Etape Caledonia now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 24, 2017, 10:28:29 pm
Nice one Chris.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2017, 09:52:30 am
Cheers Ali, you not fancy one?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 25, 2017, 05:27:45 pm
TobyD woke up from his (hopefully) final head operation in Plymouth earlier and is well enough to post on Facebook.
Possibly time to switch from TobyD to TitaniumToby?

Remember kiddies, wear your helmet!
Even clipping bolts at Malham!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on April 25, 2017, 06:31:22 pm
Cheers Ali, you not fancy one?

Only got a singlespeed road bike  #toohipsterforsportives
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on April 25, 2017, 08:01:14 pm
Redpointed my first 7b today,

Nice to read that mate  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 25, 2017, 08:26:09 pm
Thanks. We have an open project in WCJ ...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 26, 2017, 12:17:09 pm
Cheers Ali, you not fancy one?

Only got a singlespeed road bike  #toohipsterforsportives

Not #mamil yet!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 27, 2017, 05:18:00 pm
In a climbing career constantly marred by inadequacy, sub-par performance, and a crushing and pervasive weight of Punterdom, it is important to let those little rays of light in whenever you have cause to feel a bit of pride. In this vein I'd like to take the time now to share some of the comments that people have made about that problem what I did the FA of at Yeadon Crag:

"The Cestrian is one of the very best" - Footwork Finley

"Excellent" - Dave Warburton

"I thought Cestrian was a contender for the best 7a in Yorkshire. Total class" - Will Buck

"gave up after a few goes" - Mark Rankine

 :smartass:

https://vimeo.com/128807773
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on April 27, 2017, 05:42:16 pm
I can't believe you overlooked this one:

"a bit shit" - 36chambers (after flashing it)

 
:trollface:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 27, 2017, 05:47:21 pm
 :icon_321:
 :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on April 27, 2017, 06:37:52 pm

"The Cestrian is one of the very best" - Footwork Finley


Did I fuck
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on April 30, 2017, 07:20:19 pm
Just got back from my first trip to font, where I almost found myself flashing Alta - 7C, bloody foot slip gaining the lip! In the end it took me a few attempts. The psyche is high at the moment and I feel like all this training is finally paying dividends  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: monkey boy on May 20, 2017, 09:52:55 am
Never posted on this thread before but I said YES enough times post send to warrant it I think  :dance1:

https://vimeo.com/218224633
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 20, 2017, 10:07:54 am
Excellent work Dave. Needed some profanity though ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: monkey boy on May 20, 2017, 10:34:19 am
Excellent work Dave. Needed some profanity though ;)

I know! I was too happy and surprised for profanity. It's more frustration sends where profanity comes out for me  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on May 20, 2017, 12:34:44 pm
Dave doesn't allow swearing in his videos that's why he mutes most of them.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 20, 2017, 01:13:43 pm
Dave doesn't allow swearing in his videos that's why he mutes most of them.  ;)

Best not to upset the fucking sponsors ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: monkoffunk on May 20, 2017, 04:54:04 pm
That's the problem I have, but as I climb a lot with Three Nine and there is no hope of rehabilitating him into polite society I think my dreams of being a sponsored hero will have to go on hold. Only for that reason mind.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 21, 2017, 09:11:59 pm
Just grasped back the UKB fantasy footy title by a rather amazing 1 point margin!  :tease: :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 22, 2017, 10:43:07 am
Etape Caledonia - 4:46:27 chip time. Feeling utterly broken today, weather was crap too, got spoaked twice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 22, 2017, 02:58:26 pm
After some research and email exchange with a local, I found out that a problem that I climbed back in 2010 at Città dei Sassi, in the Dolomites, wasn't a repeat but in fact a first ascent.
So now it's going in the guidebook!
I've opened many problems, but having a beautiful line in a majestic setting feels special.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: measles23 on May 22, 2017, 07:56:04 pm
Nice one nibs

6 months after snapping my leg, X-Ray = good tibial union; now have permission to take impact and permission to lift - back in business yyfy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 22, 2017, 08:28:28 pm
excellent Measles.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on May 23, 2017, 01:47:11 pm
Quote
Etape Caledonia - 4:46:27 chip time. Feeling utterly broken today, weather was crap too, got spoaked twice.

Effort lid!! Love a good spoaking...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 23, 2017, 03:10:26 pm
Cheers. Nasty combination of spokes and soaking ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on May 23, 2017, 04:26:15 pm
Quote
Just grasped back the UKB fantasy footy title by a rather amazing 1 point margin!

I managed to not finish last!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Grubes on May 23, 2017, 05:42:34 pm
After going back to uni and having all the stress involved with that before I even get my grades back
I have got a job in my field of study which I start on the 12 June.  :great:

I can't wait

After two years of no free time and what free time I had I was forcing my self to 30min climbs here and there. I have free time again and no idea what to do with it which is great too.

Plus am off to Wembley on Monday

Very happy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 23, 2017, 08:27:05 pm
Nice one Luke [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on June 21, 2017, 06:02:36 pm
Got a job in Sheffield, YYFY! Actual local climbing, well excited.

If anyone knows anyone with a spare room going, PM me :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on June 21, 2017, 06:24:04 pm
Living the dream!

Coincidently someone posted on fb that she was looking for someone to share their flat in the foundry if that's of interest? I'll pm her email
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 21, 2017, 06:53:00 pm
Is Dense still letting some out?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: haydn jones on June 21, 2017, 07:37:59 pm
There is a spare room with us (denses house)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on June 21, 2017, 07:49:05 pm
Nice one, I'll send him a message
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 22, 2017, 12:26:32 pm
Is Dense still letting some out?

Occasionally, but they have to be back home before dark.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 22, 2017, 05:38:50 pm
Got a job in Sheffield, YYFY! Actual local climbing, well excited.

If anyone knows anyone with a spare room going, PM me :)
Hi Denbob. I've PM'd you, and I think you've replied, but I can't access your message. There's a database error. I'm sure we could sort something out, if you get stuck. I'll send you my phone number when things are working. Good that you resurrected the YYFY thread. It was beggingning to look as though everyone was having a seriously crap time ;-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on June 22, 2017, 06:52:06 pm
Getting the same message issues, dates still aren't certain yet so won't know exact details until all that's sorted
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on June 23, 2017, 09:13:27 am
After my 10k joy a few months back I've been pretty injured with a bad knee. But after excellent support from my physio and a rigorous regime of excercise and rehabilitation I managed a fully pain free sub 29 minute 5k this morning  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 23, 2017, 11:07:17 am
Good man. I had some knee pain after the Etape Caledonia, but had a sports masseur who went hard on my ITBs which seems to have helped, plus the long skinny muscle down the outside of your calf (name eludes me).

Stretching and foam rolling!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on June 23, 2017, 03:02:37 pm
Quote
Stretching and foam rolling!

Am back on the pilates and sure this is having an impact.
Plus post run strides.
Plus foam rolling is the shit for recovery 
:weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on June 26, 2017, 10:31:00 pm
small YYFS, on a bit of a roll lately... over the past 3 weekends I've managed 3 different f7B+'s  (in fairly quick time) :D (I bet they all get downgraded haha)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 27, 2017, 03:33:40 pm
Quote
Stretching and foam rolling!

Am back on the pilates and sure this is having an impact.
Plus post run strides.
Plus foam rolling is the shit for recovery 
:weakbench:
  Good man, someone else into running strides too. They're the business. Loads here that we should discuss in the "Don't go running" thread. ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on June 27, 2017, 03:40:44 pm
small YYFS, on a bit of a roll lately... over the past 3 weekends I've managed 3 different f7B+'s  (in fairly quick time) :D (I bet they all get downgraded haha)
Great work Spiders  :2thumbsup: Always a great feeling, when you're on form (IIRC  :lol: ) Take them at market value! ;-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 29, 2017, 01:20:56 pm
Mega psyched after yesterday's session, I'd been having this idea in my mind for a while and finally managed to put it to test.
Ten sets of a sub-max snatch (3 reps) followed by a one arm hang on the BM central rung, 90 degrees lock.
Absolutely brilliant, mega fun and mentally challenging.
Today I feel properly worked.
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on July 02, 2017, 09:13:55 am
Just sent off my booking for a gite in Bois le Roi for next Easter.

Will be my first time in the forest for almost exactly thirty years. Trip motivated by the lad, who having been only interested in indoor bouldering for the last couple of years, suddenly started asking "Dad, when can we go to Font?". Plastic blob leaping not entirely the work of the devil after all.

He's already started asking if we can get a bigger mat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on July 02, 2017, 12:16:19 pm
(http://68.media.tumblr.com/63105dbfe75617a367ef26ee354337fa/tumblr_osgm4352391vzh51do1_500.jpg)

After over fifteen years of banging my head against the precipitous outer wall of the world of publishing, I finally have a book coming out this September...
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: neilslim on July 02, 2017, 02:29:22 pm
(http://68.media.tumblr.com/63105dbfe75617a367ef26ee354337fa/tumblr_osgm4352391vzh51do1_500.jpg)

After over fifteen years of banging my head against the precipitous outer wall of the world of publishing, I finally have a book coming out this September...
 :dance1:

What's it about?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on July 02, 2017, 02:29:57 pm
Amazing, not the usual YYFY but serious congratulations. Publishing journal articles is enough of a pain in the ass for me, I can't imagine how much of a nightmare books are!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on July 02, 2017, 03:26:40 pm
(http://68.media.tumblr.com/63105dbfe75617a367ef26ee354337fa/tumblr_osgm4352391vzh51do1_500.jpg)

After over fifteen years of banging my head against the precipitous outer wall of the world of publishing, I finally have a book coming out this September...
 :dance1:

What's it about?

It's a very serious book. Slap it on top of, er, Stephen Hawking’s book on your coffee table and impress your friends.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 02, 2017, 04:08:33 pm
(http://68.media.tumblr.com/63105dbfe75617a367ef26ee354337fa/tumblr_osgm4352391vzh51do1_500.jpg)

After over fifteen years of banging my head against the precipitous outer wall of the world of publishing, I finally have a book coming out this September...
 :dance1:

That must feel great! Congratulations. I love the cover design.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 02, 2017, 04:42:52 pm
Nice one Styler, and fifteen years! Epic dedication!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: powderpuff on July 02, 2017, 04:55:54 pm
(http://68.media.tumblr.com/63105dbfe75617a367ef26ee354337fa/tumblr_osgm4352391vzh51do1_500.jpg)

After over fifteen years of banging my head against the precipitous outer wall of the world of publishing, I finally have a book coming out this September...
 :dance1:
Congratulations!

Love the front cover, beautiful bold colours ☺
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 03, 2017, 01:34:52 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on July 03, 2017, 01:58:32 pm
Ta. It was a lot of work. It’s looking positive on the translation side - possibly Italian, German, Dutch and Korean. Fingers crossed...

There’s a Solar System book to follow this, plus mountains, and emergency vehicles.

But the big YYFY will be an adult illustrated deal, which is why I’ve spent all morning failing to understand orbital mechanics.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on July 03, 2017, 02:25:21 pm
(http://68.media.tumblr.com/63105dbfe75617a367ef26ee354337fa/tumblr_osgm4352391vzh51do1_500.jpg)

After over fifteen years of banging my head against the precipitous outer wall of the world of publishing, I finally have a book coming out this September...
 :dance1:

What's it about ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 03, 2017, 03:35:25 pm
Ta. It was a lot of work. It’s looking positive on the translation side - possibly Italian, German, Dutch and Korean. Fingers crossed...

There’s a Solar System book to follow this, plus mountains, and emergency vehicles.

But the big YYFY will be an adult illustrated deal, which is why I’ve spent all morning failing to understand orbital mechanics.
Fantastic news about the first book. Must feel like breaking through a new grade, like first 8a .. x 10  :2thumbsup: Does Pinches Wall get into the Mountains book?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on July 03, 2017, 03:48:02 pm
(http://68.media.tumblr.com/63105dbfe75617a367ef26ee354337fa/tumblr_osgm4352391vzh51do1_500.jpg)

After over fifteen years of banging my head against the precipitous outer wall of the world of publishing, I finally have a book coming out this September...
 :dance1:

What's it about ?

Sorry. It's kids (5+) kids illustrated non-fiction about insects. First half is basic taxonomy, where they live, what they eat, how they get around, etc. And second half is loads of illustrations of insects across the main orders.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on July 03, 2017, 04:11:18 pm
Ta. It was a lot of work. It’s looking positive on the translation side - possibly Italian, German, Dutch and Korean. Fingers crossed...

There’s a Solar System book to follow this, plus mountains, and emergency vehicles.

But the big YYFY will be an adult illustrated deal, which is why I’ve spent all morning failing to understand orbital mechanics.
Fantastic news about the first book. Must feel like breaking through a new grade, like first 8a .. x 10  :2thumbsup: Does Pinches Wall get into the Mountains book?

I intend to use part of the proceeds to find out whether reaching 8a is indeed equivalent or not! Competition for the mountain book is fierce as it's also flora / fauna that live in the mountains, mountain people / weather / exploration, etc. But if you insist, maybe I can drop Denali or something...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 03, 2017, 09:24:35 pm
If you're short of a Dutch translator I could ask the good lady.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 04, 2017, 02:10:54 am
 ;D
Ta. It was a lot of work. It’s looking positive on the translation side - possibly Italian, German, Dutch and Korean. Fingers crossed...

There’s a Solar System book to follow this, plus mountains, and emergency vehicles.

But the big YYFY will be an adult illustrated deal, which is why I’ve spent all morning failing to understand orbital mechanics.
Fantastic news about the first book. Must feel like breaking through a new grade, like first 8a .. x 10  :2thumbsup: Does Pinches Wall get into the Mountains book?

I intend to use part of the proceeds to find out whether reaching 8a is indeed equivalent or not! Competition for the mountain book is fierce as it's also flora / fauna that live in the mountains, mountain people / weather / exploration, etc. But if you insist, maybe I can drop Denali or something...
Ha ha! Very good. Have yourself a +1  :yes:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 04, 2017, 03:15:00 am
If you're short of a Dutch translator I could ask the good lady.

Nibs for the Italian!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2017, 07:37:57 am
I'm sure someone from here could help out with the Scouse version ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stu Littlefair on July 04, 2017, 07:39:52 am
Ta. It was a lot of work. It’s looking positive on the translation side - possibly Italian, German, Dutch and Korean. Fingers crossed...

There’s a Solar System book to follow this, plus mountains, and emergency vehicles.

But the big YYFY will be an adult illustrated deal, which is why I’ve spent all morning failing to understand orbital mechanics.

If you need any help with that, drop me a PM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 04, 2017, 10:02:15 am
If you're short of a Dutch translator I could ask the good lady.

Nibs for the Italian!
;D ;D
I imagine it could be a rather technical language, I could end up filling every page with "Thou Shalt Fingerboard" captions. Just to raise the little ones in the right way.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ben on July 04, 2017, 10:19:26 am

After over fifteen years of banging my head against the precipitous outer wall of the world of publishing, I finally have a book coming out this September...
 :dance1:

What's it about ?

Sorry. It's kids (5+) kids illustrated non-fiction about insects. First half is basic taxonomy, where they live, what they eat, how they get around, etc. And second half is loads of illustrations of insects across the main orders.

Sorry was slightly tongue in cheek due to the large yellow title saying BUGS   ;)   Congratulations! I know at least a couple of kids that would be well into this kinda book so will await a purchasing opportunity!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 04, 2017, 04:26:28 pm
Quote
Sorry. It's kids (5+) kids illustrated non-fiction about insects. First half is basic taxonomy, where they live, what they eat, how they get around, etc. And second half is loads of illustrations of insects across the main orders.

This looks great, my boy is 5 in October and I totally bum insects. He has shown some interest in Mr Lewington's offerings but the text is a tad adult. Can you put me down for a pre-order?

PS Are they UK species? Is that a Gomphus on the cover? Hope there are some Calopteryx in there too...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on July 04, 2017, 06:52:03 pm
it's an Illinois river cruiser (Macromia illinoiensis) and there is an Ebony jewelwing (Calopteryx maculata) inside, along with an Emperor (Anax imperator). They're all slightly stylised, with a focus on overall form, with very fine surface detail / hairs, etc simplified. In terms of selection it's pretty international, mainly so we could include some amazing huge butterflies.

My main aim with the text was to not dumb it down at all, so there are quite a lot of long or difficult words, but my opinion is that kids like difficult words (I think it's idiot adults that usually take them out) and so binomial names are used throughout, and there is a decent glossary for the technical words.

If there are any decent independent bookshops you can recommend in Sheffield, do let me know. I might be able to combine doing a signing with a Peak trip...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 04, 2017, 07:04:05 pm
NSFW  :
I totally bum insects

friend of The Bondage Fairies, yeah?
NSFW  :
(http://www.japanator.com/elephant//ul/18262-ero-week-how-i-met-the-bondage-fairies/crop0-620x.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fried on July 04, 2017, 07:07:20 pm
I've been waiting for that all day and it more than delivered...thanks!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 04, 2017, 09:12:32 pm
Quote from: Wikipedia
Bondage Fairies (ボンデージフェアリーズ Bondage Fairies) is an erotic manga about highly sexual, human-shaped female forest fairies with wings.

 :ohmy:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on July 05, 2017, 06:12:07 pm
Did The Hatchling on Monday.
And Out of Balance today to make sure it wasn't a fluke :-)

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on July 05, 2017, 06:15:27 pm
Delete duplicate...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 05, 2017, 06:31:09 pm
Did The Hatchling on Monday.
And Out of Balance today to make sure it wasn't a fluke :-)

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

what a boulder, nice work
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 06, 2017, 03:23:02 pm
Having a proper YYFY moment is also a matter of priorities.
I just received my box of 36 high protein bars, and my new 10 kg olympic plates, and I AM FUCKING OUT OF MY TINY LITTLE MIND WITH JOY!!!
I can't wait to be back home to train with my trap bar!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on July 07, 2017, 09:50:33 am
But the big YYFY will be an adult illustrated deal, which is why I’ve spent all morning failing to understand orbital mechanics.

If you need any help with that, drop me a PM

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stu - do you mind if I drop you an e-mail? PMs seem to still be kaput...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hugh on July 07, 2017, 11:52:27 am
Did The Hatchling on Monday.
And Out of Balance today to make sure it wasn't a fluke :-)

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Nice one man!   :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Stu Littlefair on July 07, 2017, 12:56:19 pm
Send away Simon


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 08, 2017, 06:16:56 pm
Chuffed!
https://youtu.be/S3wSYlpxXPY
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 08, 2017, 09:08:13 pm
 :strongbench: indeed!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Denbob99 on July 08, 2017, 10:43:14 pm
Is that just a dumbell you have set up for it Nibs?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 08, 2017, 11:37:09 pm
Is that just a dumbell you have set up for it Nibs?
Hey, no, it's the ab wheel from Decathlon, reassembled. In between the wheels I've put a plastic tube from my dumbbells, and the handles are at the extremities to stop the wheels from rolling out. Not perfect, but did the job.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 09, 2017, 10:47:54 am
Back under 13st for the first time since 2013..  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 09, 2017, 03:21:31 pm
Nice one FD and Nibs.. what are those ab roll out wheels like from the toes not knees? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 09, 2017, 05:20:20 pm
Nice one FD and Nibs.. what are those ab roll out wheels like from the toes not knees? ;)
If you mean these
https://youtu.be/WI6G891WN7E
They are quite hard, especially maintaining a slight posterior pelvic tilt.
Why do you ask, don't you have direct experience?
 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on July 09, 2017, 06:02:38 pm
2 Questions Nibs,

What the fuck are those shoes? And are you hard-wired into the matrix? (screen in background)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 09, 2017, 06:31:04 pm
 ;D
The shoes are Nike Air Rift.
The Matrix is always on.
In reality it's just a window with light filtering through.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 09, 2017, 08:26:39 pm
Due to injuries (both physical and mental) I've not climbed much over the last year, but thanks to CBA I hauled my weak body up a 7A+ at a very hot Brownstones today. I know its not a big number, but just pulling on rock, at any grade felt great.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 09, 2017, 09:11:03 pm
Due to injuries (both physical and mental) I've not climbed much over the last year, but thanks to CBA I hauled my weak body up a 7A+ at a very hot Brownstones today. I know its not a big number, but just pulling on rock, at any grade felt great.
Brilliant. Nice work Mr F  :2thumbsup:  Maybe you need to update your profile  ;D Mind you, I've felt like an ex-climber for about 20 years!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CBA on July 09, 2017, 09:30:59 pm
Due to injuries (both physical and mental) I've not climbed much over the last year, but thanks to CBA I hauled my weak body up a 7A+ at a very hot Brownstones today. I know its not a big number, but just pulling on rock, at any grade felt great.
Great session today Andy. Stick with it,lid. The fire and the fight's still there,I could fucking see it a mile off. Fantastic to see you coming through this.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 09, 2017, 09:41:29 pm
Due to injuries (both physical and mental) I've not climbed much over the last year, but thanks to CBA I hauled my weak body up a 7A+ at a very hot Brownstones today. I know its not a big number, but just pulling on rock, at any grade felt great.

Fuck me - getting anything with a 7 at Brownstones in today's heat deserves a medal...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 09, 2017, 10:08:58 pm
Due to injuries (both physical and mental) I've not climbed much over the last year, but thanks to CBA I hauled my weak body up a 7A+ at a very hot Brownstones today. I know its not a big number, but just pulling on rock, at any grade felt great.
Brilliant. Nice work Mr F  :2thumbsup:  Maybe you need to update your profile  ;D Mind you, I've felt like an ex-climber for about 20 years!

Done  ;) :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 09, 2017, 10:12:01 pm
Due to injuries (both physical and mental) I've not climbed much over the last year, but thanks to CBA I hauled my weak body up a 7A+ at a very hot Brownstones today. I know its not a big number, but just pulling on rock, at any grade felt great.
Great session today Andy. Stick with it,lid. The fire and the fight's still there,I could fucking see it a mile off. Fantastic to see you coming through this.
Thanks for dragging me out, I appreciate the support. If felt bloody brilliant moving over rock. I'd forgotten how soothing it is on the mind.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on July 10, 2017, 10:45:36 am
7A+..  There goes my hopes for burning you off on the 22nd.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on July 10, 2017, 01:48:57 pm
Think this my first post on YYFY but it feels warranted..

Girlfriend's outdoor MoonMoffattboard project completed last weekend after tons of hard work put in by her with a little bit of help from me. Got it weatherproofed too. 4 spinning t-nuts out of 110, not bad for beginners!
:bounce:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ypH6yHTe21MSfPzt6UIA5EHJjNTMJf3nj5eWwtrNNwbbC4TWRk9eOliQ-SKVoDsN4E429zxPSL1js7wRE9ywbrgOKpZLEQMP2ROyeOnIGoRGKpjG2v1_7j3PQCq611y0wfKCEcZ90g_e4cvaj37XjpLQKF4_He8-xvF8M929X95fR4gYkCVsoJPs_CqpQkbKqGk3T_532wxXRWPY2S4qkhu_z-0Eypl8-pTbWjv37CT1ZXdNWTXgxKu1d3EM0QpegCb4XfAORwdQXedsnA_rVfnc-tzFh0eOOW_9koVrrReXANm3bU4Z090U2lcgceIHxAc6M5H1taCLYwGocUsYKdjGNhDPTolSqULE7phYZxG_lW_H8dlB723ofLAUTbvhJc3iLXS-74HAgAYFXSrPkHbefE1QlPA4ocBh7OO9SW-sIb-IUcSvgFPF5CQG0qOiGeREH3Ufdf7ACjOHWwkADZOtv0mSdccyivludHm-kGRerXhtbw5AWj3A1P-qlNmX4rsi-lo2FAxlAFIbjq2Cp3fFiIzW-2uaOvkDe_s-9jFqy8Q61GhgprbZnQgVQDK_6cmQ0INLoZZgN3B6n9L9UY5192hbuLdqzMX63IwP566V1Q91u5E8beDH=w1224-h918-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZC-rRbFCFrfncGFBKv2tO-xB1gPrJ_qaMNmLr-rzdB-Vyx307w5IaYVgeyBGZPFbTOq0uEMV-40wFlqhbmdTo9-HwiRnd_xfP83WlKQyKyFWf4mQoCj_KyuvdtfAyLqOXDrWDbVsnFlcpa-jnTvjJdtG2D2QA5QyRq68lnVKO-RHXMQBSnlYjCCEe6n5yKrFuip90c5YleBqocHlOjN-8oP9ad6xERe4MNKhuaoVjeO30yHtUs7i4xSSECdfJiPahMogCmiGhqrgbMz6d797zJGpUPooGhb8LkN4Mno3uXsSd8A9e4aYbvGu6T_gjUWqltEzRe5WXD3hZ-Wt4exH2_gCEutH9zvSG7PrRQCmXjU3im8ciAgSzNbs7Vlsm4WnE62xy5yd4qZETqvji9WvB_cRomlRsLfSbnrjydbFRNHRE3as5IQsjddD4zPuEYZH8p3O9VYDjii1tpcjCSS9kN2HPgRgt2v-lw5A_fFgkQlID-C2ARRIRHK7ZDv_6COzTrRB9EWHZA6DSK-n3lu_B2IaJWGxpu1318Lj0S8sA4QRf7X1TPGEUwcSsY4XFKHOx4i7U0uBLCK6_SGgdwM6RZJimDG9dhaeEpLvllYFtWuh0IIQBCbcexx_=w689-h918-no)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 10, 2017, 09:24:19 pm
7A+..  There goes my hopes for burning you off on the 22nd.

I'm sure it was just 'first time back on rock in ages psyche'. I'll be back to my usual bimbly level in no time at all.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 10, 2017, 11:08:30 pm
Done  ;) :whistle:
Ha ha! Very good  :yes:  And yes, moving over stone - very soothing. Sounds like a great day out  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 02, 2017, 01:27:26 pm
About bloody time :)

https://vimeo.com/228055408
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 02, 2017, 02:00:56 pm
Nice one Tom.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 02, 2017, 06:12:37 pm
Nice one Tom my ass. No final pull up no tick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 02, 2017, 06:48:05 pm
:(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on August 02, 2017, 08:58:12 pm
Nice one Tom my ass. No final pull up no tick.
As Tom can't do a pull up I'm not sure how he'd get the tick. Must rule out a lot of the ladies as well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on August 02, 2017, 09:18:14 pm
Chuffed!

Nice. If I attempted a one arm ab rollout I'd have to have toilet paper stuffed up my nose for a week.

My minor yyfy for this week is locating an ex-display but otherwise as new set of 10-year old Pace RC39 forks for my RC300 build.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on August 02, 2017, 09:25:54 pm
Strong work TT. Good tick that  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 02, 2017, 09:32:17 pm
Nice one Tom my ass. No final pull up no tick.

I recommend arching your back over so you look at the world upside down though... no tick for an overhanging upward facing dog??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 03, 2017, 07:36:55 am
Chuffed!

My minor yyfy for this week is locating an ex-display but otherwise as new set of 10-year old Pace RC39 forks for my RC300 build.

Awesome! I always wanted an RC200 - more than a Klein or anything else. (Maybe apart from a Fat Chance...)

Pics?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on August 03, 2017, 08:22:26 am
Awesome! I always wanted an RC200 - more than a Klein or anything else. (Maybe apart from a Fat Chance...)
Pics?

I wanted an RC200 but then this frame came up for sale and it was totally mint. They're the same except for the carbon seat tube a mount for discs and internal routing. Will try and get some up when I get chance  - prob this weekend. Are you on insta? might be quicker to stick a pic on there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 03, 2017, 08:42:59 am
'gram a pic Ru, I'd love to see it. Love the shape of the RC500, looks like an Android
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 03, 2017, 08:50:44 am
I will keep my eyes peeled!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 03, 2017, 09:05:38 am
Cheers Ru!
And post pics of the bike's progress, after all it's still something with just two wheels, alas with no engine!
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 03, 2017, 12:38:11 pm
Ru is a send engine
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: alx on August 03, 2017, 12:47:12 pm
Chuffed!

Epic! I need to try this out.

Have you tried roll outs or flys on the rings set at a low floor level?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 03, 2017, 02:39:27 pm
Hey!
No, I've never tried them, I am a lazy bastard and setting the rings low is too much for me!  ;D
I think they could be a good complement to roll outs though.
Anyway, I'm still unsure about one armed roll outs. I don't know if the injury risk is worth the benefit. You gain a lot of anti torsion effort, but I felt the excercise more in my shoulders and traps than in my core. Didn't get any soreness except traps and shoulders.
I'll stick to normal roll outs with my weightvest and the odd standing roll outs session.
They have both proven to be effective and I can feel the effort in the lower abs and torso for a few days after.
Last but not least, it's very hard to maintain a sloght posterior pelvic tilt on one arm roll outs.
Cheers anyway, much appreciated!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 03, 2017, 05:17:06 pm
The advantage (if that's the right term) of using the rings, is being able to bring your arms around to the side into a, sort of, horizontal Iron cross. They're known as "Push away flies". Push out to the full "Superman" on your toes and then bring arms around to "Crucifix", return to "Superman" and withdraw.
Excellent for shoulders, Pecs. and post. chain. Add weight vest for intensely exquisite torture...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 06, 2017, 07:07:11 pm
So, there was a moment today, that built on a realisation yesterday; that they don't need me for the whole climbing thing anymore.
Yesterday, whilst I was belaying the youngest lass as she lead her first 5 at Portland, I realised the eldest two were off belaying each other and "Red pointing" a 6a+ (Eldest (11) got it third try, her highest outdoor grade). This wasn't exactly sanctioned, I usually obsessively check their knots or hover over them (if I let them belay a lead at all).
Today, they were so organised, spotting and moving pads. Off on their own, picking highballs (at least relative to their stature). And then, three of them decided to open an account with "Mako" on the Sharks fin! And made some real progress! (Well, progress "ish", fatherly pride might be tinting my view, but they got a lot further and tried harder/more often than I would have imagined).

So, apart from the whole "Dad taxi" to get to the crag, all I have to do is drink coffee.



(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170806/d18edbb58bcd322bf494aab3e473f294.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170806/ef5817178c14471abfee2c66a691610d.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170806/2684c212e0facbf425fdf739c2fb5095.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170806/ccf446e6f7a6964bff39eaa6f7f5acaa.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 06, 2017, 07:53:21 pm
Sorry, just one more:
Lily (8), on the link up of "Vertically challenged" and "Don't kill me". Trick move through the roof if you're only 4' tall...

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170806/256241a5f6ec820856f516a43033ae83.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on August 07, 2017, 10:19:28 am
 :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:

nice one OMM
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: alx on August 08, 2017, 11:16:38 pm
First post in this thread and a minor YYFY since breaking my finger in Rocklands on day 3 of the trip, 2 months ago.

Managed a forward roll on rings into muscle up tonight, once the sequence was dialled could now do reps on this bad boy.

Now to finish work on getting the planche before my hand heals enough to return to climbing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lemony on August 10, 2017, 03:54:43 pm
I bought a house with my girlfriend and subsequently discovered that somewhere along the road I have picked up most of the little practical skills - joinery, plumbing, minor leccy etc. - I've needed to work on it. I feel like I've graduated from grown up school.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: alx on August 10, 2017, 07:57:37 pm
Congrat!

Buy an electric sander now, manual sanding is a sure fire way to ruin your climbing!

The pointy bit on a detail/mouse sander is excellent at evening out callouses  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 11, 2017, 08:35:54 am
I feel like I've graduated from grown up school.

In that case, I'm still failing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 11, 2017, 09:00:57 am
I feel like I've graduated from grown up school.

In that case, I'm still failing.

It's not graduation that counts, it's gaining Tenure...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lemony on August 11, 2017, 11:17:51 am
 

Buy an electric sander now, manual sanding is a sure fire way to ruin your climbing!


Girlfriend wanted some reclaimed wood furniture making. I agreed only on the condition that we could get an electric sander. I wish I'd insisted on a skill saw too, hand cutting scaff boards is punishing!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 20, 2017, 06:04:30 pm
Did my first trad climb in over a decade today, on what turned out to be a faintly terrifying runout Val di Mello special. I'm not counting last week's Spazzcaldera mission as that had some bolts in it. Not sure if I'm going to make it up Luna Nascente, but we will see...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 20, 2017, 06:38:59 pm
 :icon_beerchug:
Did my first trad climb in over a decade today, on what turned out to be a faintly terrifying runout Val di Mello special. I'm not counting last week's Spazzcaldera mission as that had some bolts in it. Not sure if I'm going to make it up Luna Nascente, but we will see...

Ace, got massively lost on the descent of the Spazz a few years back
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 20, 2017, 09:25:05 pm
Yeah - great climbing but we got a bit confused, and even when we found the right path it still shat me up a bit!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on August 27, 2017, 01:49:16 pm
Got Jericho road today  :bounce:

Longstanding proj and hardest lime up problem to date.

 Ben, my eldest, got it too with a scary high heel.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: haydn jones on August 27, 2017, 02:34:43 pm
Nice one Simon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 27, 2017, 03:30:51 pm
Excellent Simon.

Tough for 7A+!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Alex Smurthwaite on August 27, 2017, 04:37:15 pm
Good effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 27, 2017, 04:43:46 pm
Good work Shark!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on August 27, 2017, 08:50:35 pm
nice one Shark

good to hear that Ben is going well
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on August 27, 2017, 08:59:11 pm
Thanks chaps. Getting worryingly hooked on bouldering at the moment. Oak may have to wait till next spring

good to hear that Ben is going well

He's getting a bit keener for outside but the Works comes first
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: user deactivated on August 27, 2017, 09:54:30 pm
Nice one Simon, did you top it out? ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 27, 2017, 11:04:32 pm
Nice one Shark!
Stick at it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dave on August 28, 2017, 09:45:14 am
Got Jericho road today  :bounce:

Nice one geez.

Longstanding proj and hardest lime up problem to date.

(https://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/steven-universe/images/b/bc/Confused-face.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20150801064912)

But......wait.......The Oak?.....what?.....wait...you've been trying now.....for years.......and.....years...........hang on..... oh never mind.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 28, 2017, 09:56:07 am
Apparently the odds of Shark doing the Oak in 2017 have been slashed from 50:1 to 49:1

;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 28, 2017, 10:13:05 am
First half marathon since 1987, 1:48:22, 2 hours was goal.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 28, 2017, 10:15:39 am
Nice one Shark. Hard 7A+ has gotta mean you'll be crushing F8as or 8a+s in no time :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on August 28, 2017, 10:49:34 am
First half marathon since 1987, 1:48:22, 2 hours was goal.

good effort

which one did you do?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 28, 2017, 10:52:47 am
^ +1
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: alx on August 28, 2017, 11:04:43 am
First half marathon since 1987, 1:48:22, 2 hours was goal.

 :o

That's faster than my 100m sprint pace!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 28, 2017, 11:35:33 am
Aberdeen Great Run. First one here. Course was OK, mostly flat, all hills short and sharp. Final stretch was down Union Street past my office on way to train station, so I was on home ground, having run it many times to avoid missing trains! Weather was a bit warmer than  I would have liked, but not complaining.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on August 28, 2017, 01:37:22 pm
Hi folks. Nice effort there Simon on JR  :2thumbsup: . I'd be super keen to get down there for a session any time you're keen. And you, Mr Jonathan R. Moffatrocity next?  Chris, nice work on the half marathon  :beer2:  Must have felt great, given your target time, and knowing the run-in must have really helped. I'd love to work out how to get the old running/climbing balance sorted.. I know, don't go running. As a P.S. I managed my first weighted muscle-ups the other day (+5kg).  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mark Lloyd on August 28, 2017, 01:45:13 pm
Nice one Simon, did you top it out? ;)
No he stepped off onto his step ladder
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 28, 2017, 04:58:58 pm
I'd love to work out how to get the old running/climbing balance sorted.

I've sacked off climbing until after Ring of Steall Race 16th Sept. Can't really do both with full time job, partner with full time job and in training too and 2 kids.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: user deactivated on August 28, 2017, 05:09:49 pm
Nice one Simon, did you top it out? ;)
No he stepped off onto his step ladder

Bet he didn't forget his nut key tho Lloydy ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on August 28, 2017, 09:29:50 pm
Nice one Shark. Hard 7A+ has gotta mean you'll be crushing F8as or 8a+s in no time :strongbench:

Cheers Matt

Its generally considered 7B. Tomtom reckons it could rate 7B+ at other more forgiving venues.

8a's or 8a+'s aren't really on my radar at the moment. Think Id rather just go bouldering and push myself there at the moment.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on August 29, 2017, 12:17:59 pm
Well done Simon. Do more of this sort of thing.

My shoulder has been up and down - as has my mood - but this morning I detected a distinct flicker of activity in the Deltoid. I'd thought the numbness might have been improving the last few days but that's so subjective. Signs the Axillary nerve is coming back to life. YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on August 29, 2017, 12:22:27 pm
First 100+ mile road ride yesterday at 105 miles with Mr Tonks (climber turned racer), great day for it. Previously my longest was 65 miles with plenty of stops so was quite a challenge, kept up a good pace (mainly due to drafting Aaron) at 16.7mph. Well chuffed, legs are sore today though!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 29, 2017, 03:01:08 pm
Great stuff, time for an Etape / Sportive
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on August 29, 2017, 04:33:11 pm
Well done Simon. Do more of this sort of thing.

My shoulder has been up and down - as has my mood - but this morning I detected a distinct flicker of activity in the Deltoid. I'd thought the numbness might have been improving the last few days but that's so subjective. Signs the Axillary nerve is coming back to life. YYFY!

Cheers and best of luck with a speedy recovery
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on August 29, 2017, 06:33:08 pm
Well done Shark! Sounds like you're inadvertently taking daves advice...
And nice one Chris, pretty much exactly my time when I aimed for two hours!

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nutty on September 05, 2017, 02:32:34 pm
Last night I had my first session on the 45 degree wall I've been building in the garden over the summer. I'm really pleased with it. Incredibly psyched now for more sessions.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2017, 05:45:10 pm

And nice one Chris, pretty much exactly my time when I aimed for two hours!



Same big match temperament! although i have a very black big toenail from going hell for leather in the final stretch and all technique going out the window.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 06, 2017, 08:50:23 pm
As a P.S. I managed my first weighted muscle-ups the other day (+5kg).  :boxing:

That's pretty good. I do three sets of three with a 4kg belt and it hurts! The difference over body weight muscle ups is a shock, when you first try.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on September 06, 2017, 11:39:17 pm
As a P.S. I managed my first weighted muscle-ups the other day (+5kg).  :boxing:

That's pretty good. I do three sets of three with a 4kg belt and it hurts! The difference over body weight muscle ups is a shock, when you first try.
Hey, thanks Matt  :) Sets at 3 x +4kg sounds pretty bloody good!  :strongbench: Yes, it seems really significant how much more explosive they are. I've been trying to get the static muscle up (false grip), so work the negatives a plenty, high locks, "press-outs" etc. I love it. V close to the static. Top exercise for climbing too. Hope you get back on those routes at Ansteys  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on September 06, 2017, 11:43:45 pm
Last night I had my first session on the 45 degree wall I've been building in the garden over the summer. I'm really pleased with it. Incredibly psyched now for more sessions.
  Sounds great! Must feel good to get that sorted and ready to go at  :2thumbsup: Hope you kicked back with a couple of beers, or some such celebration.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on September 07, 2017, 12:07:25 pm
After a couple of months off for a forearm extensor and A2 pulley injury, I have been slowly training back to full strength which, judging by the last few sessions, I have achieved! If anything I feel stronger than I did pre-tendonfuckery  :2thumbsup:

A couple more months and hopefully I will be able to get back on Diesel Power without fear of recrudescence
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tom Newman on September 11, 2017, 08:58:58 am
A new one at Crafnant for the taller gentlemen

https://vimeo.com/232183585
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Tom Newman on September 11, 2017, 09:01:36 am
The above was meant to be posted to none quality vids  :oops:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 11, 2017, 04:42:29 pm
Ok, I have absolutely to share this, because it's been fucking amazing, out of nowhere and shocking.
Saturday night we were having dinner at a friends' house (wild boar stew with baked potatoes 8), they've just had another baby, 3 months old now, and we were all together in the same room, and playing and chatting a bit with their 3 years old daughter.
So, at some point, I asked her: "Hey but do you remember when you were as little as your sister?"
To which she replied: "Of course I remember!"
So I asked: "And what do you remember?"
And she replied: "That I looked at you and smiled."

At that point I looked around and there were a few puzzled and smiling faces, but I barely managed to hold a couple of big tears of commotion.
I obviously know that she must have created this memory, but goddammit did it feel good. Few times in my life I've been as happy. A majestic moment, a true treasure.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on September 12, 2017, 11:14:39 am
Part Animal - Part Machine - Part Human  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on September 12, 2017, 01:46:01 pm
Part Animal - Part Machine - Part Human  :)
:lol: :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 05, 2017, 09:40:26 pm
Non climbing related YYFY, as per normal. But got a phone call today telling me I’ve been offered a permanent job with North Yorkshire County Council, as an Assistant Highways Officer. Stepping stone/foot in the door and a well needed career change from tree work. As much as I love my current job, I’m looking forward to doing less physical work whilst still being predominantly outdoors, and being able to spend more time with family.

All round joy! Feel a bit like I’ve got a proper grown ups job...... (Aged 35......)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 28, 2017, 05:43:02 pm
Temps are dropping (only 18 degrees today...), psyche is rising.
Despite my troubled left elbow, after some rest from the BM and the board, today I managed to one arm the 1,5 flat edge in my garage. Did 4 sets. Left arm was just about it, probably 1,5" but was quite scared about my elbow. Right arm was powerful and added 5 kg on the last set. Brilliant stuff.
"When you shoot well, shoot a lot!" says Lenny Bassham, so then I did my usual session on the 1 cm edge at 90%, and it felt oh so fucking easy.
Who needs climbing when you have two small pieces of wood in your garage?
YYFY.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: measles23 on October 29, 2017, 09:10:03 am
Sounds like your head's back in the game nibs, which is just as well seeing how many of the rest of us feed off your psyche!
Wad for regaining training psyche..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on October 29, 2017, 11:34:15 am
Nice one Nibs  :clap2:

I finally got a diagnosis on Friday of what's been causing the left shoulder general weakness and 'impingement' issues -  calcific tendonitis of the rotator cuff.

The physio thinks that surgery can definitely be avoided and there's zero point in anti-flams of any sort as it been an issue I guess for three years at least and almost certainly down to repetitive work actions and then made worse by climbing and ignoring the warnings signs. By the time I started to do anything about it is was too late and he not so laughingly called the area 'dead'.
I had initial shockwave therapy on Friday and going forwards he's shown me how and where to manipulate the tendon in the hope of encouraging regeneration. hopefully it will all come good for next summer. Forwards instead of treading water is how it feels and as a bonus, it seems I now have fairly good mobility of the scapulae and thoracic. Still lots to do tho.

The only negative is I go to Font for a month on Tuesday but hey, there are worse places to do rehab and mobility sessions  :)

I'm happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on October 29, 2017, 05:11:34 pm
Great work Lore  :boxing:

Almost as inspiring as Angy Eiter's Instagram pic. Arms  :o

Agree with everyone about your contribution of psyche.

Kelvin, good to hear about the diagnosis. You've been battling this and other injuries for ages. Hope the trip to Font is a good one. Hope to join you sometime..
Enjoy the coffee and pastries.

 :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 29, 2017, 10:47:52 pm
Cheers guys, I really appreciate.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 07, 2017, 09:34:30 am
just booked a gite near Font for 2 weeks at Easter

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 05, 2017, 11:03:03 am
Yesterday I didn't have enough time to put in a fingerboarding session, so I took a deep breath and did some tests: manage to hang my 10 (9) mm edge for 5" with 40 kg added. Previous time was around 1,5".
YYFY!
I know that this could mostly be due from temps dropping from 27 degrees of my previous test to 5, but it still felt quite good. Shame about my elbow: I felt that I could have hung it for longer but it was becoming very uncomfortable.
Video here:
https://youtu.be/faxy9hbKIzk (https://youtu.be/faxy9hbKIzk)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Luke Owens on December 05, 2017, 12:05:56 pm
10 (9) mm edge for 5" with 40 kg added.

Lore you absolute beast.

The psyche is high!

Wadded
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 06, 2017, 01:45:18 pm
Cheers Luke! 
 :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on December 06, 2017, 04:45:58 pm
Quote
just booked a gite near Font for 2 weeks at Easter

Amen to this! SamT and myself will be sharing a gite right next to the Trois Pignon with our familys next Easter. 4 months and approx 42 training sessions to go..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on December 27, 2017, 07:05:53 pm
Bit of a long one..
Have been feeling thoroughly miserable at the end of 2017 following a relationship  breakdown, so decided last minute to treat myself to a week in Albarracin over Xmas to get away from everything. .
Arrived in Barcelona yesterday, picked up the hire car and started the drive. Following a halfway stop at a services I returned to the car to find someone had stolen my rucksack from the back seat - I must not have locked the car when I thought I had?! 
In my virtually new lowe-alpine rucksack, worth 100-odd quid: my albarracin guidebook, my anasazi whites, chalkbag, my passport, 350 euros in cash, my rab gillet, an old red goretex shell I liked to use on winter mixed routes, my down sleeping bag, and - almost most distressingly of all - my brand new copy of Ed Douglas’ ‘Magician’s Mirror’ that I’d bought myself as a present and was looking forward to for holiday reading.
I couldn’t believe my luck. I must have only been gone from the car for 5 minutes tops; the thief must have been in/out like a flash. Feliz Navidad you scumbags.

I railed at the universe for dealing me such a totally shit hand at a time when I already felt like shit and was just trying to feel better.

So why the YYFY?
Luckily at least I had some old shoes in my other bag so I could still climb.
Now I’m just back from a great first day’s bouldering in beautiful surroundings. Albarracin’s beautiful, the climbing’s mint, conditions are perfect and I’ve got a big smile all over my face! I can absorb the loss it doesn’t really matter.
It always amazes me - the transformative power that simple movement over rock has to rejuvenate the spirit! Especially in amazing new surroundings.
I’m so glad I’m a climber! 😁😁😁
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: thirtytwosrule on December 27, 2017, 08:44:01 pm
It always amazes me - the transformative power that simple movement over rock has to rejuvenate the spirit! Especially in amazing new surroundings.
I’m so glad I’m a climber! 😁😁😁

I feel this on a very regular basis!

5 years ago I split up with a very long term girlfriend and I do genuinely wonder what state I would be in and where those 5 years would have taken me without climbing.

One big reason I guess I am still most drawn to trad especially in the mountains. To quote a nutter, it nourishes the soul.

This has also now made me want to plan a trip to Albaracin as I've never been and if it can put a smile on your face after a day like that it must be good!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 27, 2017, 10:12:13 pm
Effort Pete - many would have thought fuck it and turned back home. 👍
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: B0405413 on December 27, 2017, 11:29:26 pm
Such a good post, nice one! Climbing is the shiz
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 12, 2018, 09:39:08 pm
Great post Pete.

After a very long period of frustration and uncertainty, I've just received a notification that my application for a Green Card has been approved. Of course, it helps that I don't come from one of those "shithole countries."
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 12, 2018, 11:28:36 pm
Great post Pete.

After a very long period of frustration and uncertainty, I've just received a notification that my application for a Green Card has been approved. Of course, it helps that I don't come from one of those "shithole countries."

You obviously haven’t been in Torquay lately...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 13, 2018, 08:25:06 am
i suspect most people from Widnes would consider Torquay rather nice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 13, 2018, 10:37:58 am
i suspect most people from Widnes would consider Torquay rather nice.

I don’t think so. Even though I know little about Widnes.
We are feeling thebrunt of the homelessness crisis and have become a centre of distribution for hard drugs. Quite literally the drug capital of the South West.
It still looks pretty, at first glance and head out of the town centre and you can find a little slice of heaven.
But, the town is dead. That high street collapse that is sweeping the country, has hit here very hard. There is little to no employment in the Bay, what there is is seasonal or care home related. But visitor numbers decline year on year and slowly the hotels become abandoned or are converted to “Assisted Living”.
I had to stop my 12 year old from going into town with her friends. I’m hardly a helicopter parent, but last Saturday we went for a coffee after dropping the weeks cash in the bank. Cafe Nero, not Freds Greasy Spoon. There were three people, half undressed with clothes and shoes strewn around them, shooting up. 11am, Saturday morning, on the main street.
Back at the car park and all along Factory road, there were drunken/high fights going on and around eight to ten unconscious bodies slumped in doorways.
Check it out. Have a look at the “Spotted Torquay” page on Facebook. Google the local newspaper (The Herald Express).
It’s partly to do with some of that “Excess accommodation “ (read: bankrupt hotels) being turned into “halfway houses” and shelters. Not a bad thing, in and of it’s self, but we’re starting to understand why a large concentration of such things might be an issue...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 13, 2018, 10:51:33 am
In fact.
I just pressed post and my phone rang.
I shit you not.
I have just hung up.

It was Polly (Mrs OMM). She works part time as an estate agent, including Saturday mornings. Driving to a viewing, on St Marychurch road, near Ellacombe; a high/drunk man leapt on her car. Tried to smash the windows with his head and fists; wrenching the door handle and screaming incoherently.
Cue crazed reversing with madman on bonnet, pursued by several Cops on foot and a crowd of people trying to help (they’d already been trying to subdue him prior to Polly’s arrival).
Now phoned me so I can tell her boss why she’s at the Police station instead of the veiwing.
She was crying down the phone, not hurt, but well fucked up. I reckon we’re in for some nightmares again.

And...

This is the YYFY thread. Sorry.

Edit:

I offer one last thing on this.
A word/thought for the day:

Dystopian.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on January 13, 2018, 11:10:31 am
Thanks Matt.

(https://media1.tenor.com/images/8bb8502bf9e39caf3495c61b30b7ac9d/tenor.gif?itemid=4815626)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 13, 2018, 11:30:45 am
Thanks Matt.

(https://media1.tenor.com/images/8bb8502bf9e39caf3495c61b30b7ac9d/tenor.gif?itemid=4815626)

Go climbing!

It’s the only thing that makes sense (mainly because it doesn’t).

And when you’re done, we can have a beer and argue over politics (because it’s not real, we have no influence and it’s kinda fun and I like listening to you (just because I argue, doesn’t mean I don’t respect you)).
And, when you’re in Devon next, we’ll head over to Ansteys, climb a bit and swim in that beautiful bay (one of those little bits of heaven I mentioned) (you want a beer or a soft drink with lunch? We can flash up the Barbecue down on Redgate in the evening too).

Because, that’s what it’s really about. The rest of the shit piles of life, are just speed bumps and Gas bills. Fucking annoying, sometimes painful, but ultimately transient.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on January 13, 2018, 11:51:23 am
Followed by a candlelit dinner for two I hope.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 13, 2018, 11:55:16 am
Followed by a candlelit dinner for two I hope.

What?

Two?

You’re not coming?

Seriously, everyone, I can already taste the steak...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on January 13, 2018, 02:51:17 pm
Having grown up in Widnes, I can confirm that whilst it's shitness is beyond question, it's not as shit as Torquay sounds. Or at least, it wasn't when I lived there.

Widnes always has its even more downtrodden brother Runcorn to make it look better. I can remember opening my GCSE Geography exam paper and seeing the first question. It was a photo of a rundown town centre and we wer invited to point out the signs of social decay. The town was Runcorn. Must've been shit for kids from Runcorn.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 13, 2018, 03:19:50 pm
I was about to point out that though I'm not actually from Widnes, Will certainly is. In fact, most of Widnes really isn't that bad.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 13, 2018, 07:10:16 pm
Followed by a candlelit dinner for two I hope.

I heard you do a mean pot noodle Doyle....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 13, 2018, 08:14:27 pm
Followed by a candlelit dinner for two I hope.

I heard you do a mean pot noodle Doyle....

Would you accept a Pot Noodle from this “man”?

(https://image.ibb.co/bwjr7R/D5786864_2_A84_4110_9834_B59_FFF579342.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 05, 2018, 12:55:03 pm
Right now the city of Philadelphia is waking up to probably one of the greatest collective hangovers of all time. What a great evening!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 05, 2018, 01:29:54 pm
Bit of a long one..
Have been feeling thoroughly miserable at the end of 2017 following a relationship  breakdown, so decided last minute to treat myself to a week in Albarracin over Xmas to get away from everything.
....
Now I’m just back from a great first day’s bouldering in beautiful surroundings. Albarracin’s beautiful, the climbing’s mint, conditions are perfect and I’ve got a big smile all over my face! I can absorb the loss it doesn’t really matter.
It always amazes me - the transformative power that simple movement over rock has to rejuvenate the spirit! Especially in amazing new surroundings.
I’m so glad I’m a climber! 😁😁😁

I missed this before. Strong post Pete. I've had good times deciding to just go to Alba on my own. Hope the rest of the trip continued great despite the theft.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 05, 2018, 02:18:48 pm
Nice post Pete and a nice way of dealing with things. Sending you positive crimp vibes for the year ahead boss.  :)

On the Widnes topic, we've just put an offer in on a house there and it's been accepted. I'm thoroughly delighted since it'll mean Pex is around the corner, I won't have to cycle through miles of poorly maintained urban roads to get to the countryside any more and I'll be able to do endless Frodsham Hill reps.

Long live Widnes!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 05, 2018, 07:16:11 pm
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m0oJ8_VTu3c (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m0oJ8_VTu3c)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spid3rz on February 06, 2018, 10:51:45 pm
Busy few months (exciting times) Post Modern Jukebox, Morrissey, Foo Fighters and Harry Potter Studio. Just booked Wales for a few days in Easter. Best of all we have found and booked what looks like a very nice 'doggy' friendly apartment in Fontainebleau in the summer :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 07, 2018, 01:36:20 pm
On the Widnes topic, we've just put an offer in on a house there and it's been accepted. I'm thoroughly delighted since it'll mean Pex is around the corner, I won't have to cycle through miles of poorly maintained urban roads to get to the countryside any more and I'll be able to do endless Frodsham Hill reps.

Long live Widnes!
Brilliant news brother!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 07, 2018, 02:47:18 pm
On the Widnes topic, we've just put an offer in on a house there and it's been accepted. I'm thoroughly delighted since it'll mean Pex is around the corner, I won't have to cycle through miles of poorly maintained urban roads to get to the countryside any more and I'll be able to do endless Frodsham Hill reps.

Long live Widnes!
Brilliant news brother!!!

Thanks beast! Plenty of room for you both to come and stay with us. Oh and a garage for a board..... ;) ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 07, 2018, 03:01:02 pm
Tom, you can dismantle the boards in my house if you want, and have the matting.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 07, 2018, 03:03:06 pm
Tom, you can dismantle the boards in my house if you want, and have the matting.

😱 taking them down?

If I had a garage I’d make you an offer.. (well we may move housebhis year...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 07, 2018, 03:29:18 pm
Tom, you can dismantle the boards in my house if you want, and have the matting.

Are your boards still up Andy? I suppose technically you should be loaning them to the British Museum but I'd be interested if they're not of course  :great:

Tom, you can dismantle the boards in my house if you want, and have the matting.

😱 taking them down?

If I had a garage I’d make you an offer.. (well we may move housebhis year...)

You'd be welcome to train at ours Tom if ever rained off from Frodsham/Helsby action. I can't wait to get set up now and closer to some ruralness.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on February 07, 2018, 09:12:32 pm
Nice one Mono...  (I got my posts and quotes mixed up reading and thought Nibs was moving to Widnes 😀😀)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on February 08, 2018, 08:22:43 am
Great news Mono. Does this mean that the Fingerwrecker board is going to see the light of day again?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 08, 2018, 08:48:26 am
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 09, 2018, 10:15:44 am
Cheers beasts.

Does this mean that the Fingerwrecker board is going to see the light of day again?

Damn right it will. Thinking about becoming a Fingerboarder again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 09, 2018, 10:48:50 am
Tom, you can dismantle the boards in my house if you want, and have the matting.

Are your boards still up Andy? I suppose technically you should be loaning them to the British Museum but I'd be interested if they're not of course  :great:

As far as I'm aware they are - I just need to check with Pete. If they are and he doesn't want any of it then you're very welcome.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 09, 2018, 11:39:42 am
Thanks beast, that'd be awesome. Don't currently have a moving date so not at all an urgent hurry. Hope you're keeping well (the photos certainly look so!).  :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 09, 2018, 05:51:22 pm
After swithering until Friday about running (had a shit head cold for about 2 weeks), managed 2:00:02 in Forfar Multi-Terrain Half Marathon last Sunday. Hadn't run for about 3 weeks before (been away skiing) and couldn't defer or transfer, and weather was so good i just did it. Great but tough course.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 12, 2018, 12:40:48 pm
One of those days at the Cliff yesterday. Finished off Underhand and did the Extension in the same session. Is it 7c? Either way I'm taking it! Mint but freezing cold conditions; reward for all the marginal days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on February 12, 2018, 01:28:24 pm
Arse, knew I should have risked it. Good effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on February 12, 2018, 10:12:04 pm
Definitely needed some strong psych as it was blowing a hooley even by almscliff standards!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on February 13, 2018, 12:49:13 pm
after 2017 being the most injured year on record (various pulley and tendon injuries) with the last one being late October, I decided to rethink my training and how I rest. After a good few months of rehab, not only am I back to strength (although there are still things I shy away from) but the last couple of sessions at the local wall I have path'd up the hardest 7Cish test-piece on the perma features first try! This problem took me about 8 weeks to work out and climb when I first got here.

Roll on dry weather, maybe this will be the year!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 13, 2018, 02:25:16 pm
After swithering until Friday about running (had a shit head cold for about 2 weeks), managed 2:00:02 in Forfar Multi-Terrain Half Marathon last Sunday. Hadn't run for about 3 weeks before (been away skiing) and couldn't defer or transfer, and weather was so good i just did it. Great but tough course.

Nice work Chris! Have you got many other races lined up across the course of the year?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on February 13, 2018, 04:07:27 pm
after 2017 being the most injured year on record (various pulley and tendon injuries) with the last one being late October, I decided to rethink my training and how I rest.

Happy to hear this. What did you do? I'm guessing quality versus quantity of training and more rest days but I'd be interested in specifics.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on February 13, 2018, 05:37:24 pm
after 2017 being the most injured year on record (various pulley and tendon injuries) with the last one being late October, I decided to rethink my training and how I rest.

Happy to hear this. What did you do? I'm guessing quality versus quantity of training and more rest days but I'd be interested in specifics.

Thank you! I didn't really do anything revolutionary. My main focus was (as vague as this is going to sound) so respond to my body, rather than think "well I hurt but I need to train today so I will". While I was recovering I was only climbing once a week and doing some very light "no pain" finger boarding just to aid recovery, I very slowly worked my back to climbing twice a week with plenty of rest. Nowdays I am doing a one day on one day off schedule while I am in the final stages of recovery.

Also yes, you are right that I am going for quality rather than quantity. So a session now involves less running around the wall climbing whatever I want, and more of a structured approach. Specifically I am using the structure Dan Turner suggested (many thanks if you are reading this, Dan) which is 5x12: 5 problems of which 2 are weaknesses, 2 are project sims, and one is a strength, 12 minutes each and move on. I have also added in some TRX work for the antagonists and core, which I would strongly recommend!

I know it's nothing most people probably haven't heard of before, but it works better than my '6 days a week killing myself at the wall' approach that lead to the constant plague of compounding injuries.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 14, 2018, 02:21:16 pm
After swithering until Friday about running (had a shit head cold for about 2 weeks), managed 2:00:02 in Forfar Multi-Terrain Half Marathon last Sunday. Hadn't run for about 3 weeks before (been away skiing) and couldn't defer or transfer, and weather was so good i just did it. Great but tough course.

Nice work Chris! Have you got many other races lined up across the course of the year?

Doing 16 mile trail race at Run Balmoral, Illuminator and Ring of Steall again, will see what others there are to fill in as they come up. Like to do some proper "hill races" (what you would call fell races anywhere else). Shorter harder types. Contemplating a marathon, not sure which though, maybe Fort William, the mixed nature appeals more than all out road type.

You?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on February 14, 2018, 04:51:24 pm
Contemplating a marathon, not sure which though, maybe Fort William, the mixed nature appeals more than all out road type.

When I was contemplating a marathon I liked the look of Kielder, mix of easy going trail and paths, not one if you're looking for a fast time apparently but I'd guess FW isn't either.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 14, 2018, 04:58:18 pm
Thanks I'll have a look at that too. Probably get there in about the same time.

If it's your first marathon any time is a PB...

More interested in doing one I'll enjoy than one that is easy to do.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on February 15, 2018, 11:20:02 am
After swithering until Friday about running (had a shit head cold for about 2 weeks), managed 2:00:02 in Forfar Multi-Terrain Half Marathon last Sunday. Hadn't run for about 3 weeks before (been away skiing) and couldn't defer or transfer, and weather was so good i just did it. Great but tough course.

Nice work Chris! Have you got many other races lined up across the course of the year?

Doing 16 mile trail race at Run Balmoral, Illuminator and Ring of Steall again, will see what others there are to fill in as they come up. Like to do some proper "hill races" (what you would call fell races anywhere else). Shorter harder types. Contemplating a marathon, not sure which though, maybe Fort William, the mixed nature appeals more than all out road type.

You?

Sounds like a solid set of plans champ! Hope you manage to get to a local hill race soon too - will look forward to the report.

I'm down for the Teenager with Altitude and Jura races at the moment. If I get the all clear to start running next week, I'm in with a shot of surviving them.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 21, 2018, 07:07:11 pm
You know you have achieved a certain level of notoriety, when your finger tape supplier has your offical company reference as your UKB moniker  (not sure who they are on here, but I promise I don’t order things under my username, and Polly does the ordering anyway).

I did piss myself, when the reception staff called to ask me if I’d upset someone, because he’d received a package addressed to Old man Matt...

(https://image.ibb.co/fjyGiH/96635_AF2_545_C_4_FFC_9_E1_D_B1723_CD6713_C.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 22, 2018, 11:06:06 am
A couple of weeks ago I was contacted by the woman who's in charge of my Contrada (neighborhood) blood donors group, and I joined it. Did the analysis and was cleared, so today I went and donate for the first time. Brilliant stuff. Next month I will be "doing platelets", whatever that may mean.
So fucking proud! Should have done it much earlier.
They also gave a monster ham sandwich.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2018, 03:14:31 pm
All you get in UK is a cup of tea and a tunnocks wafer
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 26, 2018, 03:25:29 pm
All you get in UK Scotland is a cup of tea and a tunnocks wafer
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on February 26, 2018, 03:28:35 pm
Ha! I'm excluded from donating blood in France because I was resident in the UK during the days of Mad Cow Disease !

Quote
Séjours au Royaume-Uni entre 1980 et 1996 d’une durée cumulée supérieure à un an. Cette mesure a pour but d’écarter tout risque de transmission de la « maladie de la vache folle ».
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on February 26, 2018, 03:50:51 pm
I tried it a couple of times, but found it so traumatic I decided to do my bit for society in other ways instead.

E.g. I could do without a nurse saying "you seem rather tense Mr M". Of course I'm fscking tense. You just stuck a fsck off great tube in my arm and I can see my sodding blood flowing out through it!   :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 26, 2018, 04:53:17 pm
 ;D ;D ;D ;D
I found a very friendly and calm atmosphere when I went there. I was greeted with compliments about my veins and my Emoglobine levels. I felt like a sort of horse at an auction though.  :look: :look: :look:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 26, 2018, 05:15:53 pm
Blood wagon came to our business park 2 weeks ago, I only found out when every available slot was taken and there was a waiting list. Colleague went at allocated time and waited an hour and a half.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on February 26, 2018, 05:30:37 pm
I can’t donate blood as I’ve had a transfusion before (after my car accident)

Seems ironic I was only saved due to people giving blood, yet I now can’t  :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 26, 2018, 06:58:39 pm
Have you checked recently Mike - they periodically change who can and can’t..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 26, 2018, 07:17:54 pm
As a youngster, I was chatted up by a very, very attractive nurse in Napoli, who after accepting a few coffees in the cafe where we met, talked me into accompanying her to a small caravan in the nearby Piazza.
And took a pint of blood, before turning out to be very busy for the rest of the evening...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on February 26, 2018, 07:36:15 pm
Have you checked recently Mike - they periodically change who can and can’t..

I did check every few years, but haven't done for a while now as answer was always the same. My transfusion happened 17 years ago, surely it'll be ok by now?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 26, 2018, 08:50:32 pm
Next month I will be "doing platelets", whatever that may mean.
So fucking proud!

I gave platelets for several years. It is a more involved and sometimes slightly more painful process than giving blood. Line in one arm with blood flowing out into whizzy machine that separates the platelets out (which then accumulate as a disgusting looking yellow pus coloured gunk in a plastic bag somewhere just in your line of vision). Line going back into the other arm through which platelet-less blood goes back in. I had problems once or twice with the line not being sited quite properly meaning blood can't flow in at the right speed, which was uncomfortable. The whole procedure lasts an about an hour once the lines are in. Like I have said, if I have felt a little discomfort from time to time. I certainly never wanted to train on a day I'd given platelets. Because you don't lose any red blood cells you can also donate once a month rather than quarterly. But platelets are absolutely life savers and not everyone has a high enough platelet count to be make donating viable/worthwhile. So, if you can, you should do it. And be very proud.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ally Smith on February 27, 2018, 07:44:29 am
 :dance1:
YYFY! First house we were trying to buy fell through last week.
Same day another suitable property came up, good location, SW facing garden and a monster garage suitable for a big home board.
Just heard our offer has been accepted. YYFY!
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 27, 2018, 07:59:37 am
Nice one Ally!  I've just accepted an off on my flat. 6 weeks no interest and then 3 offers in 2 days! 

Now me and the missus can find somewhere to make home woooohoooo!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 27, 2018, 08:49:10 am
I gave platelets for several years.
So, if you can, you should do it.
Brilliant Andy, congratulations for this.
I will, surely, despite your not-so-fascinating description. I asked about it, and they told me something vague about out and in again...
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 27, 2018, 11:27:07 am
I gave platelets for several years.
So, if you can, you should do it.
Brilliant Andy, congratulations for this.
I will, surely, despite your not-so-fascinating description. I asked about it, and they told me something vague about out and in again...
 ;D

Don't get me wrong, its not terrible, just a bit more involved than giving blood, and occasionally a little uncomfortable. I need to check out donating here, I only 2 or 3 short of making 100 donations when I left the UK.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 27, 2018, 12:46:28 pm

Now me and the missus can find somewhere to make home woooohoooo!

#vanlife. Nice one mate. Sad to see the old place go?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 28, 2018, 01:53:34 pm
I only 2 or 3 short of making 100 donations when I left the UK.
Wadded.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 28, 2018, 02:27:58 pm
As a youngster, I was chatted up by a very, very attractive nurse in Napoli, who after accepting a few coffees in the cafe where we met, talked me into accompanying her to a small caravan in the nearby Piazza.
And took a pint of blood, before turning out to be very busy for the rest of the evening...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjzOUf0AEiQ
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 04, 2018, 07:53:39 pm
Had a session at the works yesterday not expecting much. Flashed a few things on the Motherboard which wad a surprise and felt really good throughout.

At the end of the session I thought I'd try a one arm hang on the beastmaker 2000 bottom slot and managed about 3 seconds on each arm!!! Then did it again to make sure it wasn't a fluke.

Last time I tried I needed to take 10kg off and I've not managed to lock off on a bar on yet for longer than a few seconds.

Either a light gravity day or trying hard outside has been paying off as it's definitely not as result of training...

Super psyched!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on March 04, 2018, 08:57:30 pm
Flashed a few things on the Motherboard which wad a surprise and felt really good throughout.

Excellent typo syke. Have a wad point...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 04, 2018, 09:20:19 pm
Flashed a few things on the Motherboard which wad a surprise and felt really good throughout.

Excellent typo syke. Have a wad point...

I’m embarrassed at how many times I had to re-read that to find the typo...
Bloody brain!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 05, 2018, 11:32:03 am
I read an article some time ago, about how we process reading.
It said that we don't run through all the letters of a word or a phrase, but we jump from block of letters to block of letters, as if they were images. We also process in advance, so that when one word is already clear - had we read it or not - we skip and proceed to the next one. That's why the more we read a phrase, the more difficult it becomes to fidn typos.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 05, 2018, 03:12:48 pm
Sounds right.

https://www.grammarly.com/blog/how-many-fs-do-you-see

Even running a cursor over each line it takes about 5 times to get them all. Confirmation bias applies i think?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 05, 2018, 04:53:59 pm
Apparently i'm a genius. I read each line backwards though?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 06, 2018, 09:41:58 am
Wouldn't go applying to MENSA on that basis though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 06, 2018, 11:04:46 am
Just out of pure curiosity, didn't anyone find any typo in my previous post? I put one in deliberately, to see if it was going to be perceived.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on March 06, 2018, 11:06:53 am
Just out of pure curiosity, didn't anyone find any typo in my previous post? I put one in deliberately, to see if it was going to be perceived.

I picked up the "find" typo up straight away  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 06, 2018, 11:09:03 am
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on March 18, 2018, 10:52:10 pm
Finished my film. Off to Costa Blanca for 10 days on Wednesday.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Palomides on March 19, 2018, 02:20:15 pm
Did a comp yesterday.
Acheived goal and didn't come last.
Today my shoulders and core are so sore that I failed to do yoga this morning.

Brilliant.  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2018, 11:31:00 am
Amazing day ski touring in Glen Clova, 2 great descents. plus one we struck out on and had to retreat (always a yin to the yang). Amazing conditions, skied all the way into Corrie Fee, and pootled most of the way along the landy track before snow ran out.

And the winter is not over yet, get here if you can....

https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/uk-weather-latest-easter-bank-holiday-snow-temperature-drop-weekend-forecast-a8264836.html
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 28, 2018, 02:56:45 pm
YYFY! Just did 21 reps with 85% (67kg), previous effort with the same weight was 11. Did 13 reps straight away (so already an improvement), and then got to 21 resting the bar on the blocks and catching my breath. Technically as sound as I can be at the moment. Brilliant.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on April 01, 2018, 03:38:09 pm
First day on rock for 6 months, a top crowd of like minded people of all flavours (except meat for the amino acid free vegans) and first visit to Porth Ysgo yesterday. What a fucking class venue, so many classics, so little skin left.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 01, 2018, 06:29:35 pm
Sounds top, enough UKBers / scousers there?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on April 01, 2018, 06:50:24 pm
Hosey, CBA and various other Lancs based luminaries. Top team.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 05, 2018, 11:36:53 am
A bit of a lame yyfy in that it doesn't involve me actually doing anything, but just saw that Adam Ondra is a keynote speaker at a tech event I'm attending next month. Should brighten up the day a bit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 09, 2018, 02:32:22 am
Mark Rankine (that's Mark20 right?) just told me he repeated my Time Regained today. This was my swan song I guess, not that I knew it at the time, and it has a lot of significance to me, for a variety of reasons. And its a good and hard route I think. It just made me really happy to know someone had wanted to put a little time in to trying it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on April 09, 2018, 08:14:24 am
Mark Rankine (that's Mark20 right?) just told me he repeated my Time Regained today. This was my swan song I guess, not that I knew it at the time, and it has a lot of significance to me, for a variety of reasons. And its a good and hard route I think. It just made me really happy to know someone had wanted to put a little time in to trying it.

This is great, nice one Mark
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: highrepute on April 09, 2018, 08:34:55 am
Mark Rankine (that's Mark20 right?) just told me he repeated my Time Regained today. This was my swan song I guess, not that I knew it at the time, and it has a lot of significance to me, for a variety of reasons. And its a good and hard route I think. It just made me really happy to know someone had wanted to put a little time in to trying it.

This is great, nice one Mark

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=19032 for those not in the know. Good work Mark and congrats Andy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on April 09, 2018, 11:04:19 am
Mark Rankine (that's Mark20 right?) just told me he repeated my Time Regained today.

Waddage.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 24, 2018, 12:52:59 pm
Last Friday, the sun shone on England. Sam and I took it as a day's holiday and set off for the Lakes. We drove past Giggleswick through mist and drizzle and arrived in Ambleside to see low cloud in Langdale. We stopped at a shop to get a few bits and pieces and were advised to stick to the valley that day.

We set off up Langdale and wondered about doing a route at Raven Crag Walthwaite, but decided to press on. Coming towards the head of the valley, the clouds broke up, and we could see Gimmer there, veiled only by a thin and rapidly disintegrating mist. We turned to each other and laughed.

Setting off on Intern at about 11, a raven floated past the crag, cronking its beautiful cronk as it went. We got to the Ash Tree Ledges to find them in gorgeous sunshine. Sam had decided to climb in a t-shirt. "Are you not cold, Sam?" "Aye, it is a little chilly at times". The 40m pitch of Springbank in the hot sun and bouldering shoes was a bit of a slog, but worth it for the nice climbing. Toes were burning at the top.

We abseiled back down and I persuaded Sam to do Equus. He wasn't too sure if he was up to it. He arsed around placing 4 runners under the initial roof before finally mustering the courage to pull over. On the lip, with a tumbling, bumping fall below him, he wobbled and fell up and rightwards to a better position. Quite a gripping watch. He fiddled in a runner and proceeded the toe and calf burning bridging that followed - each move preceeded by a quavering whimper of "Watch us here". I'd forgotten how good the climbing on this was.

Arriving at the junction with Kipling Groove, he looked down at me and announced that he had one quickdraw left and would be taking a belay. He hung in space at the top of the groove, exactly one move before the climb's crux. I led through and watched him follow in golden evening light.

Back down at the bags I looked at the time. This had all taken us about 8 hours (shambles) and we necked our water and our lunch. The sun set behind Bowfell, and we ambled down to the pub with warm hearts.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/888/41628506402_a24a9a3878_c.jpg)


(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/903/41628505042_34e980270a_b.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on April 24, 2018, 01:33:29 pm

 "Are you not cold, Sam?" "Aye, it is a little chilly at times".


I can hear this in my head; perfect! Sounds like a great day out. Need to trad climb more in the Lakes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 24, 2018, 02:30:44 pm

 "Are you not cold, Sam?" "Aye, it is a little chilly at times".


I can hear this in my head; perfect! Sounds like a great day out. Need to trad climb more in the Lakes.

I kept tempting him to do Kipling Groove as it's so good. He'd set boundaries very early on that he would not, under any circumstances, climb anything easier than E1 all day.
"I am not flogging up some fucking Lakes VS".

There were some other gems, but none that can be repeated in public.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on April 24, 2018, 02:55:27 pm
Lakes VS --> probably harder than Equus anyway!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on April 26, 2018, 10:35:14 pm
YYFY!
Just handed in the translation of Andy Kirkpatrick's "1001 climbing tips"!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Muenchener on April 26, 2018, 11:00:51 pm
I kept tempting him to do Kipling Groove as it's so good. He'd set boundaries very early on that he would not, under any circumstances, climb anything easier than E1 all day.
"I am not flogging up some fucking Lakes VS".

You could start via Intern, gets E1 nowadays but was HVS when I did it (having crawled to t'crag backwards over barbed wire etc etc) and felt quite hard & scary enough thank you very much.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 27, 2018, 09:37:52 am
I thought the climbing on Intern was steady, if not a bit 3D, odd, and maybe slightly off-balance. It's the lack of protection in sound rock for a few moves that bumps it to E1 I think.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on April 27, 2018, 10:23:55 am
YYFY!
Just handed in the translation of Andy Kirkpatrick's "1001 climbing tips"!

Was there much in there about neoliberalism, sheeple, the illuminati and the Bilderbergs or does he just keep that stuff for instagram?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on April 27, 2018, 11:08:20 am
I'm sure this has been discussed elsewhere but for all Andy's obvious skill and deep knowledge about climbing, I have been left angry, concerned, outraged and everywhere in between by his Facebook/Instagram!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 27, 2018, 12:35:15 pm
I hadn't seen the instagram feed but once argued online with Andy (whom I don't know) after he wrote what I thought was a deeply unpleasant piece about Catherine Destivelle - that was enough for me. The instagram is pretty risible. Andy would probably say I need to get red pilled.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on April 27, 2018, 12:50:35 pm
One of the comments on one of the posts says "don't let the main staff media get to you". Clearly irony is not a concept that these guys are familiar with.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 25, 2018, 04:38:08 pm
Finally got Caviar (boulder problem start) done after many many sessions :)

Yyfy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jshaw on May 25, 2018, 04:43:02 pm
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on May 25, 2018, 05:26:48 pm
Nice one tt, that's been a while coming!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 25, 2018, 07:31:53 pm
Good work Tom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on May 26, 2018, 09:24:05 am
Finally got Caviar (boulder problem start) done after many many sessions :)

Yyfy

Nice one.

Any interest in trying the rest of it?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kelvin on May 26, 2018, 10:10:27 pm
Excellent work Tom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 27, 2018, 10:05:35 am
Strong work tom, well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on May 28, 2018, 12:20:15 pm
Nice one Tom - a nails problem!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on June 02, 2018, 07:51:48 pm
First 7C today on first day in Magic Wood! Jack the Chipper after an early start to catch the plane. Pre-trip diet was worth it, so psyched!

https://instagram.com/p/BjiEVaqDvuu/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on June 04, 2018, 08:41:09 am
Bravo - wadded!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on June 04, 2018, 03:22:38 pm
top effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 04, 2018, 09:24:17 pm
👍👍
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on June 09, 2018, 11:22:30 pm
Finally did a modestly graded traverse project at hetchell. Did it in anti connies when i only decided to go out last minute. Proper psyched!
On a less bouldery front I also caught the best wave of my life today at the end of a sunny surf seshwan off the Yorkshire Coast,felt like flying!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 11, 2018, 12:41:04 pm
Nice, where? been flat here for months.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Monolith on June 11, 2018, 02:32:58 pm
YYFY, the Italian Stallion is coming to stay with us the 18th and 19th August! :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on June 11, 2018, 02:57:21 pm
 :punk: :punk: :punk: Top Trad aim of the year, Resurrection, followed up a couple of weeks later with top sport aim, Powerplant  :punk: :punk: :punk:
All aboard the Happy Bus  :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on June 11, 2018, 03:21:50 pm
nai, I didn’t reply in Power club because I’ve been absent for a few weeks (explanation shortly) but well done on Resurrection. I prefer the left hand variation, less of a line visually but makes more sense when the holds are at hand. It’s the true line of least resistance. You’d take a whopper if you uncurled from the top holds mind...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on June 11, 2018, 03:55:52 pm
Effort nai, on a roll! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on June 11, 2018, 04:40:32 pm
Brilliant news  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 11, 2018, 05:09:59 pm
YYFY, the Italian Stallion is coming to stay with us the 18th and 19th August! :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
:dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 11, 2018, 05:16:34 pm
YYFY, the Italian Stallion is coming to stay with us the 18th and 19th August! :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

I hope you're going to take him to Pex.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 11, 2018, 05:43:01 pm
Nice one nai   :thumbsup:

And Monolith I guess that means the Italian is staying with me as well
 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on June 11, 2018, 05:47:17 pm
Brilliant Nai, top effort
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on June 11, 2018, 06:20:26 pm
Great to hear that nai. Nice one! Two thumbs up.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on June 11, 2018, 07:02:59 pm
Was down at Cayton Bay. Might take a punt tomorrow too...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 12, 2018, 09:28:28 am
Curse you and your NE facing coastline.

Enjoy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 14, 2018, 03:31:16 pm
YYFY, the Italian Stallion is coming to stay with us the 18th and 19th August! :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
And Monolith I guess that means the Italian is staying with me as well
 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Flights and ferry are booked!!!
 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 14, 2018, 04:18:19 pm
Missed the TT races tho'
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 14, 2018, 06:03:15 pm
Reeeesult

May miss the TT but he gets to pit crew at the classic, let the good times roll...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 15, 2018, 08:38:44 am
This is getting beyond exciting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on June 29, 2018, 10:12:33 am
so a bit of a YYFY for me, second week in a row that I've managed to go climbing (after a year and a half break) albeit indoors at the depot after dislocating my toe last year and de-gloving it in the process, then messing up my knee and achilles as a result, then messing it it further skiing (falling on rails) this year.
Did I feel fat incredibly weak and out of shape? Yes, but was I actually dragging my fat frame up a wall and enjoying it? Yes, yes fucking yes.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 29, 2018, 11:24:08 am
How did you deglove your toe while dislocating it??

YYFY, got out on SUP on Loch of Skene yesterday morning before work. Only 10 mins from work, and I was warm even without a shirt on. If was like glass, and just me and the swans out. Sublime.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: rich d on June 29, 2018, 01:01:32 pm
I was doing karate and it ended up sidewise and dislocated so far out that the skin split in a large ring around the bottom of the toe.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 04, 2018, 08:43:03 am
Over 10 years ago, in October 2007, I went to Almscliff for the first time. It was a misty day; we didn't have a guide; I started up Western Front thinking it was Great Western. I cottoned on after the roof section and lowered from the inverted Y.
Over the years I had a further 3 goes, only thinking to dog around and figure out the crux on the last of these.
Last night, as England went to a World Cup penalty shoot out, I climbed the Western Front of Almscliff. As I pulled over the top, the jubilant screams from the nearby farm confirmed victory after the best of 5.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2018, 10:09:23 am
Over 10 years ago, in October 2007, I went to Almscliff for the first time. It was a misty day; we didn't have a guide; I started up Western Front thinking it was Great Western. I cottoned on after the roof section and lowered from the inverted Y.
Over the years I had a further 3 goes, only thinking to dog around and figure out the crux on the last of these.
Last night, as England went to a World Cup penalty shoot out, I climbed the Western Front of Almscliff. As I pulled over the top, the jubilant screams from the nearby farm confirmed victory after the best of 5.

Does this mean you like football now?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 04, 2018, 12:50:20 pm
Over 10 years ago, in October 2007, I went to Almscliff for the first time. It was a misty day; we didn't have a guide; I started up Western Front thinking it was Great Western. I cottoned on after the roof section and lowered from the inverted Y.
Over the years I had a further 3 goes, only thinking to dog around and figure out the crux on the last of these.
Last night, as England went to a World Cup penalty shoot out, I climbed the Western Front of Almscliff. As I pulled over the top, the jubilant screams from the nearby farm confirmed victory after the best of 5.

Does this mean you like football now?

I'm making an exception for the World Cup.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Alex Smurthwaite on July 07, 2018, 06:44:02 am
Did Turbulence at Woodwell yesterday. First of the grade and my complete anti style.

Year goal of 7c done  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 07, 2018, 07:52:29 am
Nice one Alex - where’s that? (Turbulence)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 07, 2018, 08:05:34 am
Nice one Alex - where’s that? (Turbulence)

I did some googling :) always searching out a suitable 7C to work on... :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Alex Smurthwaite on July 07, 2018, 07:08:44 pm
Nice one Alex - where’s that? (Turbulence)

Cheers Tom.

Everything at O'ert road is mint, well worth checking out!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 13, 2018, 03:33:28 pm
Yay ☺️☺️

New South Devon guide book arrived this morning.

Fabulous effort by Pete Saunders, Simon, and everyone else involved.

 :beer2: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 13, 2018, 07:01:05 pm
Yay ☺️☺️

New South Devon guide book arrived this morning.

Fabulous effort by Pete Saunders, Simon, and everyone else involved.

 :beer2: :dance1:

Just got my copy too. What a lovely spread of choss and class.

Not sure if you have already somewhere but I’d love to hear more about your Caveman and Flaming Drambuie solos, Dave? The history section gives due credit but doesn’t go into much detail, that’s if there is any, I can understand if these things are black and white and read all over.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on July 13, 2018, 08:55:19 pm
Is the South Devon book in the same landscape layout as the Dartmoor one? I bought that when I was first out of hospital and the combination of having to lie flat on my back and a broken hand meant I couldn’t read any of it!  :boohoo:

Am I right in thinking that all the climbing in Devon is covered by this, the Dartmoor guide and the forthcoming North Devon & Cornwall book, or is there more?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 13, 2018, 09:48:00 pm
Is the South Devon book in the same landscape layout as the Dartmoor one? I bought that when I was first out of hospital and the combination of having to lie flat on my back and a broken hand meant I couldn’t read any of it!  :boohoo:

Am I right in thinking that all the climbing in Devon is covered by this, the Dartmoor guide and the forthcoming North Devon & Cornwall book, or is there more?

Yes it’s in that format and yes I think that’s correct
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on July 13, 2018, 10:56:34 pm
Cheers Guy, need to get down to Devon when I’m fit again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 15, 2018, 02:15:23 pm
Heard rumours ND&C might be split into two?

+1 to DT solo tales.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on July 16, 2018, 08:33:50 pm
Heard rumours ND&C might be split into two?

Think this is more than a rumour - I heard the same from Mark Kembell who is heavily involved in putting it together.

The rationale is that culm coast and baggy point stuff is largely written, whereas atlantic coast is barely started and there’s loads of development going on there at the moment.  It would also be a massive tome if it covered it all in one guide.

Some people will question the commercial wisdom of splitting it into two guides, but as a local who loves this coastline I will happily buy both.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on July 18, 2018, 05:49:03 pm
Managed to bag my 50th 7th grade boulder t'other day in caseg fraith. An aim I set for myself this year! A small victory in comparison to some peoples achievements on here but a meaningful YYFY for me since I have been close grabbing an elusive 8th grade problem for some time now, so I decided to step back and consolidate the lower 7's instead, which has proven to be far more enjoyable!

Time to up the stakes and get to 50 7B=<  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Jerry Morefat on July 18, 2018, 09:59:55 pm
Quote from: Wood FT
Not sure if you have already somewhere but I’d love to hear more about your Caveman and Flaming Drambuie solos, Dave?

There's a great account of the caveman solo in the climbers club journal if you haven't already read it.
 https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1991%2520Journal-p118-127.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiZuoPOwqncAhUBPsAKHbwFCyIQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw0xRTVovEi2DG-W0BtOr8Ht
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 18, 2018, 11:05:18 pm
Quote from: Wood FT
Not sure if you have already somewhere but I’d love to hear more about your Caveman and Flaming Drambuie solos, Dave?

There's a great account of the caveman solo in the climbers club journal if you haven't already read it.
 https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1991%2520Journal-p118-127.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiZuoPOwqncAhUBPsAKHbwFCyIQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw0xRTVovEi2DG-W0BtOr8Ht

Thanks very much
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 19, 2018, 12:52:26 am
Quote from: Wood FT
Not sure if you have already somewhere but I’d love to hear more about your Caveman and Flaming Drambuie solos, Dave?

There's a great account of the caveman solo in the climbers club journal if you haven't already read it.
 https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1991%2520Journal-p118-127.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiZuoPOwqncAhUBPsAKHbwFCyIQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw0xRTVovEi2DG-W0BtOr8Ht

Thanks for the link  ;)

Loads of other great anecdotes too.
It all sounds rather more dramatised than I remember - apart from pinching the loose hold together  ;D Poem is very curiously abridged.

I'll try to put something together, but sometimes things happen just because you're enjoying where you are with your climbing - and I'm guessing we can all relate to that.  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 19, 2018, 02:08:16 am
I can remember some lovely days joint soloing with you Dave, True Moments/Freebird and Bishop's Rib standing out as particularly enjoyable. Paul Pritchard and I also watched from the road as you set out on Lord, before we wandered off for the first visit any of us paid to Scimitar Ridge.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on July 19, 2018, 11:04:33 am
I just did a pull-up for the first time since my accident.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Neil F on July 19, 2018, 12:52:15 pm
... but I’d love to hear more about your Caveman and Flaming Drambuie solos, Dave?

Ahem...

There was comprehensive coverage of the Caveman solo, together with some remarkable images, in Rock Notes at the time - based on converstations with the protagonist himself...

Ahem!

Neil
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on July 19, 2018, 01:06:46 pm
I just did a pull-up for the first time since my accident.  :dance1:

Good work. I wadded you for that but put an incomprehensible reason in because I'm a fat-handed twat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 19, 2018, 01:21:58 pm
I just did a pull-up for the first time since my accident.  :dance1:

What Accident?
I must have missed it.
I hope this indicates full recovery is imminent and that sequalae are limited to cool stories at parties.  :punk:

Edit:

Ooofff! Just found the details in the serious injury thread!
Bloody hell mate, that’s an impressive pull up!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 19, 2018, 02:18:00 pm
... but I’d love to hear more about your Caveman and Flaming Drambuie solos, Dave?

Ahem...

There was comprehensive coverage of the Caveman solo, together with some remarkable images, in Rock Notes at the time - based on converstations with the protagonist himself...

Ahem!

Neil

What we really need is the Rock Notes online archive. Have you got any or would it all need scanning?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 20, 2018, 01:32:37 am
I can remember some lovely days joint soloing..

True moments those indeed Andy! So enjoyable, and memorable, and a great pleasure to climb with you  ;D


"There was comprehensive coverage .. in Rock Notes at the time.."

Rock Notes was always a very high quality column Neil.  :2thumbsup: Thank you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 20, 2018, 01:38:51 am
I just did a pull-up for the first time since my accident.  :dance1:

Proper YYFY!  :2thumbsup:

That must be such a reassuring line to reach/cross, and surely much better progress from there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Neil F on July 20, 2018, 12:44:12 pm

What we really need is the Rock Notes online archive. Have you got any or would it all need scanning?

I've got all the mags, but no scans I'm afraid.

Neil
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 20, 2018, 02:12:18 pm
Hmm, how many years did you do - 20? 250 odd columns? Not too big a job... no text files on a hard drive anywhere?

Just noticed rock archivist seems to have disappeared too.  :(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 20, 2018, 04:19:49 pm
Woke up to another perfect 80 something degree day, pedalled my cruiser to the beach, swam in the ocean, bought fresh bread for breakfast on the way home. Yass!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 20, 2018, 04:32:34 pm
Woke up to another perfect 80 something degree day, pedalled my cruiser to the beach, swam in the ocean, bought fresh bread for breakfast on the way home. Yass!

For those of us that work in Centigrade, that sounds like Hell...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 20, 2018, 07:53:25 pm
Woke up to another perfect 80 something degree day, pedalled my cruiser to the beach, swam in the ocean, bought fresh bread for breakfast on the way home. Yass!

Back in Runcorn for the summer?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 20, 2018, 08:27:22 pm
Woke up to another perfect 80 something degree day, pedalled my cruiser to the beach, swam in the ocean, bought fresh bread for breakfast on the way home. Yass!

Back in Runcorn for the summer?

If you took a dip at Runcorn I think you'd dissolve.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 22, 2018, 06:03:50 pm
Unleashed the first 8th grade route for 4 years, and my first of the grade in't Peak. Not bad for an ex-ex-ex-ex-climber  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AJM on July 22, 2018, 08:25:10 pm
Awesome day out at Lulworth today - repeated some of the usual favourites, did Crazy Notion (7a+, shares a lot with Animal Magnetism but onsight on the new ground), and then ticked off Gates of Greyskull!

6th go or so, knocking out a few more moves each time, and today the lower bit all went ok and suddenly I was staring the “slap at the top of the crag” move in the face. Hardest/highest DWS to date, feels like a bit of a milestone, and I realised afterwards it’s also the first 7b+ I’ve done since becoming a dad...  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 23, 2018, 09:53:02 am
Awesome day out at Lulworth today - repeated some of the usual favourites, did Crazy Notion (7a+, shares a lot with Animal Magnetism but onsight on the new ground), and then ticked off Gates of Greyskull!

6th go or so, knocking out a few more moves each time, and today the lower bit all went ok and suddenly I was staring the “slap at the top of the crag” move in the face. Hardest/highest DWS to date, feels like a bit of a milestone, and I realised afterwards it’s also the first 7b+ I’ve done since becoming a dad...  :icon_beerchug:

Awesome! What a feeling it is to get that last hold, nothing like it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 23, 2018, 10:23:09 am
Unleashed the first 8th grade route for 4 years, and my first of the grade in't Peak. Not bad for an ex-ex-ex-ex-climber  :punk:

Brilliant work Andy, given other traveilles.

What was the route BTW? Are you still around in the Peak?

Dave.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on July 23, 2018, 10:56:40 am
There's a clue in there somewhere....

I'm planning to climb lots in't peak this year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 23, 2018, 12:20:38 pm
There's a clue in there somewhere....

I'm planning to climb lots in't peak this year.

So there is! A very fine one to do.  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AJM on July 23, 2018, 12:32:46 pm
Awesome day out at Lulworth today - repeated some of the usual favourites, did Crazy Notion (7a+, shares a lot with Animal Magnetism but onsight on the new ground), and then ticked off Gates of Greyskull!

6th go or so, knocking out a few more moves each time, and today the lower bit all went ok and suddenly I was staring the “slap at the top of the crag” move in the face. Hardest/highest DWS to date, feels like a bit of a milestone, and I realised afterwards it’s also the first 7b+ I’ve done since becoming a dad...  :icon_beerchug:

Awesome! What a feeling it is to get that last hold, nothing like it

Brilliant isn't it. That, plus ticking a load of classics I hadn't done, was basically my season goal, so with hopefully months of season left to come I need to sort out what's coming next  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on August 08, 2018, 05:13:00 pm
Advanced Training. Finally.  :dance1:

I fell off the last move 6 times or so back in 2016. Didn't get on it at all last year not that I didn't want to. This year's attempts were barely getting off the ground until Si showed me the secret foot beta that Matt had already shown me back in the day :oops:

I know its only a bit of rock but fuck me I felt quite emotional at the end. Cool problem I reckon. Should get more attention.

Actual send is at 1:40. Apols for the potty language.
https://vimeo.com/283956687

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tonym on August 08, 2018, 09:14:24 pm
 :great:  :2thumbsup:
Well done, Murph. It's been an emotional journey. The clip captures it perfectly.
Hallelujah, now you can turn that strength into crushing some different bits of rock!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on August 08, 2018, 09:35:49 pm
Yes mate! Bloody fine effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on August 09, 2018, 08:10:05 am
Thanks chaps. It was quite a journey. Am enjoying the moment. Probably the last time I’ll jump 2 or 3 grades at once  ;D

And welcome to the forum Tony  :wave:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on August 09, 2018, 09:23:44 am
Good effort, you made it look really easy on the send!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on August 09, 2018, 12:24:33 pm
Thanks Andy - it was really easy in the end. Had the top totally wired so once I had thae second hold there was no doubt. Sort of floated up on autopilot!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on August 09, 2018, 03:25:12 pm
How come you kept on falling off the easy bit?  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: measles23 on August 10, 2018, 06:16:41 am
Next time you might listen when I try to save you 2 years of your life :shrug:

Very well done dude now you can finally allow yourself to get on some hard stuff...  ffs you were close to flashing the crux, you and your “weak” shoulders :wank:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on August 10, 2018, 09:07:57 am
 :clap2: Nice one Murph, that's a tricky start! glad to hear you got it bagged
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on August 10, 2018, 09:59:03 am
Thanks Ted - your vid of it last year helped keep the psyche fuelled!

Matt - that flash attempt was on what turned out to be the greatest day of my climbing life. Swing time in two goes and Man of Steel in four including a static (and unrepeated!) flash of the top move. I swear if I had had the AT numbers on that day I would have done it.  :boohoo:

I’ll get back in shape now (fingers still way down - hence why even the crux was a problem) and join you on something that’s actually hard soon! :thumbsup:

Teestub - I am a full weight punter, that’s why!!! 😄

Anyone know if there’s footage of Mike’s Problem, just to the right of AT?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 10, 2018, 01:38:47 pm
Nice one Murph!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 11, 2018, 10:38:18 am
Bravo! Quite syked by this video. I know nothing about this venue other than the info on UKC. Is there anything that an optimistic southern punter should aim at in the 6C-7A range? And which guidebook, etc? Might be passing by in a couple of weeks time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on August 11, 2018, 05:57:46 pm
Hi Yossarian, glad you liked.

There’s very little at beginners wall at that grade. There’s a 7A called Short Problem or something else (also put a vid of that on Vimeo) but it really isn’t 7A or and good. Though there are a couple of other 7As at beginners ive never tried them despite having been there dozens of times. Nothing worth doing below that. Swing Time 7A+ and Man of Steel 7B are really good problems though and soft I reckon so might be worth trying.

Over the road at Griffs there are a few things below 6C but they aren’t quality. Everything else there is 7B and upwards.

Up the road at Sean’s Roof area there’s nothing below 7A+ that’s worth doing. There’s the odd stand finish to what is really a sit start problem (eg Red or Dead) but the easiest decent problem, going by grade, is Jerrys Traverse which I reckon is brick hard and I couldn’t work out that time I tried.

You’re not far from Raven Tor though and there’s loads in that range and lots of it good. The warm ups on Pinches Wall are tough as nails after 6B, though there are quite a few 7As some more doable and worthwhile than others. Wild in Me Start is overgraded at 6C and not great, but Too Hard For Mark Leach at the same grade is good fun. Bashers Problem 7A is good fun as is Saline Drip (easier for the tall) and you really ought to do the sit when you tick the stand. Watch a video first though cos it’s not in any guidebook. Little Extra Direct Start is a gift at 7A so you should get that while you are there.

I’d i was in the area though at that grade I would go to Rubicon. There’s loads of good problems in the mid 6s range around the three tiers, Miller’s Tale stand is as classic as lime 6B can get and the sit is worthwhile. A Bigger Tail gets 7A I think and is as good as any problem anywhere. Two mats and/or a spot for that one tho. It’s high but the last hold is a jug.

The best guidebook is the one by Ru and co, cos it’s got the Pinches and Minus 10 problems, but it doesn’t have Griffs or Conies (not that we need that any more).

Hope this is of some use. Enjoy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 11, 2018, 06:06:18 pm
Had a play on advanced training today Murph - inspired by your film :)

Managed to get up to where the high right foot (about 3 moves?) then ran out of ideas - felt hard to press off the LH and move up with the RH..

Also completely forgot and couldn’t work out how to sort out my hands on on swing time or MOS. you know the hold you mess about on with the left heel just after the start - Just couldn’t get a sweet/right spot on the hold
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on August 11, 2018, 06:27:11 pm
Get in Murph, really inspiring  :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Murph on August 11, 2018, 07:07:06 pm
Thanks Bradders!

Tom - glad to hear it’s inspired man. That next move is the crux. I think the way I do it is easier than any of the other ways I’ve hear (and there some really weird ways it used to be done when it was 8A). Just give it hell and practice the top. Lots. 

Good luck!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: highrepute on August 12, 2018, 09:03:50 am
Advanced Training. Finally.  :dance1:

I fell off the last move 6 times or so back in 2016. Didn't get on it at all last year not that I didn't want to. This year's attempts were barely getting off the ground until Si showed me the secret foot beta that Matt had already shown me back in the day :oops:

I know its only a bit of rock but fuck me I felt quite emotional at the end. Cool problem I reckon. Should get more attention.

Actual send is at 1:40. Apols for the potty language.
https://vimeo.com/283956687

Nice one. Good effort sticking at it.  Move on to the next or retire happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 12, 2018, 02:19:29 pm
Hope this is of some use. Enjoy.

Wow - that’s brilliant! Thanks
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on August 13, 2018, 10:49:41 pm
So stoked - knocked out a new 8b/+ route FA.  My big goal this year was to put up 5 new 8th grade routes here in Alaska, and I've now done three -  an 8b, 8a, and 8b/+.  Two to go and currently 5 potential projects.  One should go pretty quickly(8a/+ish), but the others are all pretty desperate with two in the 8b+/8c range, and two in the 8c+/9a range.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on August 13, 2018, 10:53:58 pm
So stoked - knocked out a new 8b/+ route FA.  My big goal this year was to put up 5 new 8th grade routes here in Alaska, and I've now done three -  an 8b, 8a, and 8b/+.  Two to go and currently 5 potential projects.  One should go pretty quickly(8a/+ish), but the others are all pretty desperate with two in the 8b+/8c range, and two in the 8c+/9a range.

Good work :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on August 16, 2018, 02:48:57 am
I went climbing! After more than three months off it was well overdue.

Naga (Dragon), generously given 6b+, 8 pitches, is a recent addition to the south Dragon’s Horn on Tioman Island. You get 250m of off-vertical face climbing on solid, knobbly, and mostly clean granite. Exceptions were the first and last pitches which were more in keeping with the jungle setting. It would be a five star classic 5.10 with queues if it was at Red Rocks.

Wouldn’t want to do the two hour (taken slowly) trek to the base of the routes too often. Loved the jungle flora,  fauna and ambience.

Would have liked to do the Petit route Damai Sentosa, but run-out 6c+ (good E4 according to the very able  Patrick Hill) with no mountain rescue felt a bit of an ask.

I’ll do a Tioman Dragon’s Horns rough guide at some point.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 16, 2018, 07:30:35 am
I went climbing! After more than three months off it was well overdue.

Naga (Dragon), generously given 6b+, 8 pitches, is a recent addition to the south Dragon’s Horn on Tioman Island. You get 250m of off-vertical face climbing on solid, knobbly, and mostly clean granite. Exceptions were the first and last pitches which were more in keeping with the jungle setting. It would be a five star classic 5.10 with queues if it was at Red Rocks.

Wouldn’t want to do the two hour (taken slowly) trek to the base of the routes too often. Loved the jungle flora,  fauna and ambience.

Would have liked to do the Petit route Damai Sentosa, but run-out 6c+ (good E4 according to the very able  Patrick Hill) with no mountain rescue felt a bit of an ask.

I’ll do a Tioman Dragon’s Horns rough guide at some point.

I really wanted to climb here after the Hill brothers infected the psyche and sent details when I said we'd be travelling nearby. Glad it's as good as it sounds. What a way to return to climbing, Duncan.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 16, 2018, 08:32:24 am
Psyched for you duncan, glad you got something cool done :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on August 16, 2018, 09:42:27 am
After injuring my knee about 3 years ago I've taken my Physio my seriously this year. I managed to complete my longest run since injuring it on Tuesday.

Nothing amazing at 4.5 miles @ 8m 30s per mile pace, which is at least a minute or so off my old pace, but I'm well chuffed right now!

Also managed a 21:39 Park Run last week which really surprised me given the lack of cardio exercise I've done.

Now I need to think about how I can balance my desire to do more with not overdoing it as I've still got some niggles going on. Would be amazing to get back up to my old fitness level!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 16, 2018, 10:34:00 am
Good work. Build up slowly, keep up the strengthening exercises and concentrate on good technique. I'd recommend getting running analysis done, to see if you are doing anything wrong which may have caused it in the first place.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on August 18, 2018, 04:51:31 am
What a way to return to climbing, Duncan.

Thanks both. Shoulder is still 30 degrees short of full range and a little painful, so out of the jungle but not out of the woods. Easy Trad.TM like this is my best physical and mental rehab. Need to do more.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2018, 06:44:08 pm
Finally got Griffs into Bovine done today :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63q30cWDKZg

 & Nearly dropped the last move.... sometimes they're the best ones #skinofmyteeth

Thanks for help/encouragement/beta from those at Griffs over the past few weeks..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 22, 2018, 06:50:11 pm
Nice one Tom!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 22, 2018, 07:04:19 pm
Seriously Tom, you’re pissing me right off now.
You seem to improve on a weekly basis, whilst I slide into “Trad Dad”...

Congratulations, you utter, utter Bar-steward. 😜 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2018, 07:22:05 pm
Glacial progress..... with the odd retreat :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 22, 2018, 07:31:49 pm
Glacial progress..... with the odd retreat :)

Oh yeah.
Just like the Quarternary...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 22, 2018, 07:42:19 pm
Glacial progress..... with the odd retreat :)

Oh yeah.
Just like the Quarternary...

We are due another glacial at some point....
Its been a good summer for the lime & theres still a potential 2-3 months left in the season..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on August 23, 2018, 08:12:45 am
Nice one Tom, looks like great climbing
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on August 23, 2018, 08:17:34 am
 :icon_beerchug: Good effort Tom. Ovine next! Also, try the heel hook beta on Mint Sauce. I tried this and its easier that the drop knee. Your heel goes way up and left on one of the Ru's starting crimps.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on August 23, 2018, 10:52:30 am
:icon_beerchug: Good effort Tom. Ovine next! Also, try the heel hook beta on Mint Sauce. I tried this and its easier that the drop knee. Your heel goes way up and left on one of the Ru's starting crimps.

Or just smash in a knee and it's 7B+ ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on August 23, 2018, 07:19:43 pm

Or just smash in a knee and it's 7B+ ;)

What is this witchcraft of which you speak? (Cheers, I shall have a gander next sesh).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on September 15, 2018, 07:18:45 pm
Went rock climbing today.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on September 15, 2018, 07:51:13 pm
Went rock climbing today.  ;D

Ace.  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 15, 2018, 11:09:05 pm
Nice one Mike  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 01, 2018, 09:34:46 am
Apologies in advance for a crass, shallow, narcissistic number-based post. I try to allow myself only one of these lapses per year and I think this year warrants it.

I'm celebrating the end of Sendtember (yes it actually was one this year), particularly given health contexts. Rewinding a few months ago:

23rd June - Seaside Premiere - somehow I'd dragged myself down feeling like a walking corpse. A combination of depression and another recurrent nausea bout left me the worst I'd felt for decades. In tears on Friday, driving down on Saturday full of despair, dreading the premiere as I'd be looking at the old Fiend wondering who the hell he was, in tears on Sunday morning too. Walking into Chee Dale looking at humanity from a very distant perspective.

23rd July - I have no idea what happened.

23rd August - my birthday, I hadn't planned to celebrate but increased anti-depressants have kicked in and I'm starting to cope a lot better with my digestive issues. I cope with a Thai curry AND a typically fearsome Thai salad and go to Aberdeen on the weekend and I'm climbing well again.

23rd September - mid-way through a reassuring, life-affirming period of climbing properly and normally again and I feel like the old Fiend i.e. just me.

I've not done much climbing this year and not done much climbing in the last couple of months when I've finally got some sanity and motivation and inspiration back. But those last couple of months look like this:

Rotpunkt:

Silk Teddies F7c ***
Vibes Right Hand F7c ***
Scales Of Injustice F7b+/c **

Ledge Shuffling:

Gotterdamerung E4 5c *- bold!
Spanked Roof Monkey E4 6a ** - easy fun jugs
Who Dares Wings It E4 5c *** - committing and good
Laughing Gnome E4 5c ** - committing and fun
Sidewinder E4 6a ** - brilliant steepness
Special Brew Direct E3 5c ** - epic in the sun
Whoremistress E4 6a *** - amazing big pitch
Prehistoric Monster E5 6a *** - wild and exciting
Necromancer E5 6a *** - world class awesome
Bob's Overhang E4 6a *** - great thugging
Polka Dot E3 5c ** - really nice gem
Piltdown Connection E3 5c ** - beautiful granite
Desert Rendezvous E3/4 5c ** - fantastic
Softly Treads The Beetle E4 6a *** - even better

I feel happy now :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on October 01, 2018, 12:06:34 pm
Good to hear that FIend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 01, 2018, 12:10:47 pm
Inspiring even.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 01, 2018, 04:35:37 pm
Basically it's all drugs! 10mg cpram --> 20mg cpram  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 01, 2018, 04:53:44 pm
Who says the drugs don't work. Well done mate, glad you are getting out.

Shout if you are in the area and fancy exploring some new bouldering this winter, got some good stuff to do.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 01, 2018, 05:07:21 pm
Basically it's all drugs! 10mg cpram --> 20mg cpram  ;)

Is it worth going back to the GP and actually getting something other than Fluoxetine? Do they really work?
Because I haven’t slept a full night it over a month, haven’t draged my arse even as far as Bonehill in two months and couldn’t even muster the will to train more than once in the past three months, despite going to work in the same damn wall I train in every pissing day.

 :boohoo:

Seriously, very glad to hear you’re holding on and gaining ground.
 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on October 01, 2018, 05:23:56 pm
Fluoxetine is for mild depression. If you’ve not slept for a month you probably need a medication review.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 01, 2018, 07:14:23 pm
Sorry to hear that Matt. I only know what I've experienced. Cpram reduces anxiety and improves my sleep. Years ago I did switch over to something else that might have been Fluoroxetine and made me more active and alert but spoilt my sleep, and switched back.

BTW thanks to Cheque for the film because going down and seeing it and chatting to people, even in a state, did perk me up. And even chatting to you a while before when you were recovering.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 09, 2018, 10:00:48 am
Got a place in London Marathon on the ballot. It being on the day of my 50th might have improved my chances.

I'll still fundraise though, have chosen RNLI. I'll hassle you all for money later.

Many beers in London on that evening!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 26, 2018, 09:13:14 am
 YYFY!!!
Back on the board!!!
https://youtu.be/YyEHMGh6oXo
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 26, 2018, 01:57:51 pm
Peak Nibs there at the end.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 26, 2018, 04:05:50 pm
 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I had to cut out a lot of celebrations at the end. It would have been the NSFW video of the year, at least for Italian speaking people...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on November 29, 2018, 09:06:36 pm
Managed a project of mine on the features at my local wall that has taken me over 2 1/2 years on and off. Totally unexpected ascent an hour or so after I had given up for the day!

Thank. God.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 29, 2018, 10:23:12 pm
Managed a project of mine on the features at my local wall

proper wall climbing

nice one

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on November 30, 2018, 12:21:15 am
Managed a project of mine on the features at my local wall

proper wall climbing

nice one

 :2thumbsup:

Cheers! I have a folder full of features probems there, not that anyone else gives a shit about any of them
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 30, 2018, 12:26:39 am
not that anyone else gives a shit about any of them

that's the best bit
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 11, 2018, 09:00:34 am
I dreamt that I was climbing an amazing 8c+ problem on a magnificent prow. There was a lovely right hand pinch and a beautiful left foot high step to top out. I found it easy and I was sure it was only 8b+. So I did it three more times. My right knee was perfectly fine.
Sweet dreams.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 13, 2018, 05:39:29 pm
You know what’s really satisfying?

Laying new mats in your Bouldering gym.

Smooooth.

Nice.
 :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 11, 2019, 11:29:26 am
I scraped up Blind Date on Weds... been working it on and off for probably 5 years. And my hardest grade on Peak Grit.

Normally that would be a full on grade 1 YYFY for me - but this week has been overshadowed by MrsTT waiting for biopsy results following a mammogram last week.

YYFY all benign 👍👍
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 11, 2019, 12:15:12 pm
Big up Mrs TT.


Blind what?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on January 11, 2019, 12:17:26 pm
I scraped up Blind Date on Weds... been working it on and off for probably 5 years. And my hardest grade on Peak Grit.

Normally that would be a full on grade 1 YYFY for me - but this week has been overshadowed by MrsTT waiting for biopsy results following a mammogram last week.

YYFY all benign 👍👍

Nice one Tom, well done. Great news about MrsTT.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on January 11, 2019, 12:25:51 pm
I scraped up Blind Date on Weds... been working it on and off for probably 5 years. And my hardest grade on Peak Grit.

Normally that would be a full on grade 1 YYFY for me - but this week has been overshadowed by MrsTT waiting for biopsy results following a mammogram last week.

YYFY all benign 👍👍

Quality week. Great news all round!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on January 11, 2019, 12:28:05 pm
Been there TT (and I don't mean the top of Blind Date).

Nice one Mrs TT  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on January 11, 2019, 12:31:52 pm
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on January 11, 2019, 12:41:15 pm
Great news tt family
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 11, 2019, 01:01:57 pm
What a rollercoaster Tom! The worry, the send, the relief. I would bet you feel exhausted now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 11, 2019, 01:04:55 pm
I scraped up Blind Date on Weds... been working it on and off for probably 5 years. And my hardest grade on Peak Grit.

Normally that would be a full on grade 1 YYFY for me - but this week has been overshadowed by MrsTT waiting for biopsy results following a mammogram last week.

YYFY all benign 👍👍

Fucking right on!

Waiting on biopsies. Dante’s worst nightmare doesn’t come close.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 11, 2019, 05:13:53 pm
Thanks for all the messages everyone. MrsTT is (rightly) knackered and just disappears up to bed with a large glass of red wine :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on January 11, 2019, 05:21:58 pm
Wish I'd read this earlier, great news.

And congrats on finishing Blind Date, now you can try something pleasant.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on January 11, 2019, 05:24:48 pm
I scraped up Blind Date on Weds... been working it on and off for probably 5 years. And my hardest grade on Peak Grit.

Hell yes Tom Tom! Well done mate. Plus good news on the biopsy results  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on January 11, 2019, 07:14:33 pm
I scraped up Blind Date on Weds... been working it on and off for probably 5 years. And my hardest grade on Peak Grit.

Hell yes Tom Tom! Well done mate. Plus good news on the biopsy results  :dance1:

Is there a video Tom Tom?  :-\ :popcorn:

..or it never happened!  :tease: (just kidding  ;D)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 11, 2019, 07:28:28 pm
Video and a witness :) I’ll post it up in Power Club on Sunday.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Kingy on January 11, 2019, 07:46:08 pm
Nice, look forward to the vid  :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 14, 2019, 08:42:23 am
Great news!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2019, 04:59:03 pm
Great news tit family

What i read first of all! good news on 2 counts.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 10, 2019, 12:04:55 pm
One of my Instagram posts was liked by Danny Rampling.
Which was kinda cool, but, it turns out, he’s a former Para and still very active in Tabbing and Yomping events (load bearing, endurance racing)!
I had no idea, back in the day, that he was a former.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 10, 2019, 12:55:23 pm
Fantastic news about Mrs TT.

I appreciate this is very very late, but that is wonderful news. Sorry not to pick this up earlier  :great:

Yes, Blind what?  ;) nice work TT.

And Matt  :thumbsup: please tell us more about "load bearing"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 10, 2019, 01:17:25 pm
Competitors are required to carry a set load. Open male: 35lbs +food and water (so usually 40-45lbs at the start). Full mountain safety equipment and (most organisers insist) no dead weight, so load must be made up of “useful” kit. Boots are also a requirement. No low rise footwear.
You can be randomly targeted for weight checks on route and at finish.
The comps have their origins in various military test marches (most notably, here, the SAS/SBS selection marches. The Fan Dance, Richochet etc. But also other units variations). Not only military formers and currents compete, plenty of civvies take part.
It’s a worldwide thing and the “Gone Tabbing” community is huge (look them up on Facebook).

Danny is out of retirement and DJ’ing again, apparently.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on February 10, 2019, 02:46:43 pm
.. randomly targeted for weight .. Fat Tuesday ..

There's a theme here Matt  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on February 11, 2019, 05:20:16 pm
Banana Finger! :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 11, 2019, 05:25:19 pm
Banana Finger! :dance1:
Excellent!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: joel182 on February 11, 2019, 05:30:21 pm
Banana Finger! :dance1:

Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on February 11, 2019, 05:36:57 pm
Not the hardest thing out there, I am aware, but it's so so good!

And I couldn't do it when I first tried it, a few years back, which suggests that I might actually be a better climber (in some sense) now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: thekettle on February 16, 2019, 08:17:28 pm
I have one motivational picture next to my home wall, today I saw the super-lean, bald-headed anti-hero of it at Kendal wall.
Gaskins!
Now psyched for at least 10 more years of bouldering  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: UnkArl on February 16, 2019, 08:20:19 pm
 :o
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on February 16, 2019, 09:26:17 pm
I did hear reports of some headless goats found dotted around the south lakes .
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on February 21, 2019, 06:36:50 pm
Technical Master! :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on February 21, 2019, 06:37:43 pm
Technical Master! :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

Oh that’s a great feeling, well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on March 06, 2019, 02:45:38 pm
There's currently consultation on a new Parkour site for the Broadfield park (Sheffield) area opposite me  :2thumbsup:

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7837/33423823198_99ded894a0_c.jpg)

Please see my other post about development/conservation of the local river area nearby. (which I'll put up in a minute)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 06, 2019, 04:34:33 pm
I must be out of touch, i thought parkour was about jumping about in an urban environment?

NO RULES! EXTREME! BANKSY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on March 07, 2019, 09:41:28 pm
I’m going to Eden Rock tomorrow, to go bouldering with friends. It’s a long time since I’ve done this (just shy of 12 months in fact) and it’s the first run out of the shoulder and bicep since my operation. I had my first day back at work yesterday, and managed it without incident. So I’m hoping for a good hour or so bouldering tomorrow, and some good crack with an old marra!

I might be posting in the NNFN thread in 24 hours time though, but for now, I’m going to sleep well knowing what tomorrow promises!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 07, 2019, 10:13:19 pm
Nice one. The feeling of turning a real corner after injury is sweet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 07, 2019, 10:27:06 pm
I must be out of touch, i thought parkour was about jumping about in an urban environment?

Exactly. Shouldn’t they be putting up a parkour rig in remote beauty spots? So the downtrodden rural yoof can experience what city folk do? :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on March 12, 2019, 02:45:35 pm
Just submitted my final, post-viva, post-corrections, PhD thesis. It's officially over.

I'm very much looking forward to going home, burning all my work, and never thinking about any of it ever again.

Is someone chopping onions? Anyhow, although I don't think I ever posted there, big up everyone from the Black Dog thread you've all been very helpful over the last few years :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 12, 2019, 02:47:47 pm
BEAST  :weakbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on March 12, 2019, 03:00:26 pm
Good effort monster. :smartass:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on March 12, 2019, 03:44:47 pm
Just submitted my final, post-viva, post-corrections, PhD thesis. It's officially over.

I'm very much looking forward to going home, burning all my work, and never thinking about any of it ever again.

Is someone chopping onions? Anyhow, although I don't think I ever posted there, big up everyone from the Black Dog thread you've all been very helpful over the last few years :strongbench:

Well done mate, I owe you a beer ! :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 12, 2019, 04:11:40 pm
Congratulations, Dr Chambers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on March 12, 2019, 08:18:38 pm
Congrats Doc!  :smartass: you've earned it.  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 12, 2019, 08:37:05 pm
👍👍
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on March 22, 2019, 11:33:03 am
Very proud to announce that my eldest daughter delivered me my first Grandchild in the early hours of this morning! :) Everyone doing well!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 22, 2019, 11:40:17 am
Huzzah!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 22, 2019, 11:53:39 am
Bravo!

(To her, of course).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 22, 2019, 12:02:42 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 22, 2019, 12:30:42 pm
Congrats fatneck!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 22, 2019, 12:31:48 pm
A YYFY of my own:

US Visa got approved today so I'm all set for moving to Denver next month!!! Finally I'll be fewer than 4 hours from good climbing  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 22, 2019, 12:35:25 pm
Congrats! Having been through the process myself I know that that really is a YYFY!

US Visa got approved today

What kind?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 22, 2019, 12:47:08 pm
Congrats! Having been through the process myself I know that that really is a YYFY!

US Visa got approved today

What kind?
L1, transferring with company :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 22, 2019, 12:47:45 pm
Lucky you!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2019, 12:50:10 pm
Nice. Might miss the end of the best winter for skiing in a while though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on March 22, 2019, 12:54:43 pm
A YYFY of my own:

US Visa got approved today so I'm all set for moving to Denver next month!!! Finally I'll be fewer than 4 hours from good climbing  ;D

Have you seen the traffic around Denver recently?
(I'm only slightly jealous...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 22, 2019, 12:58:56 pm
 ... and the house prices ...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 22, 2019, 01:10:39 pm
Both still better than London  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 22, 2019, 01:25:39 pm
Good point!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on March 22, 2019, 01:50:28 pm
Allez Coops :beer2:, can't wait to cash in all those weekends you crashed at mine.

And congrats to the fatneck family :2thumbsup:

(and thanks to everyone with regards to my previous post)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on March 22, 2019, 02:17:12 pm
Allez Coops :beer2:, can't wait to cash in all those weekends you crashed at mine.
More than welcome  :yes:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on March 22, 2019, 06:52:51 pm
nice to hear some good news

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on March 27, 2019, 06:49:37 pm
 Passed my trailer towing test today, whoop!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on April 24, 2019, 04:02:43 pm
Minor YYFY; I can now start planning for a Spanish van trip in earnest this winter. Spoke to work today and verbal confirmation of a job when I get back in January and remote working with 1 day in the office  :2thumbsup: Would have gone anyway even if they hadn't been receptive to it but nice to think I won't be completely destitute!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on April 24, 2019, 04:27:22 pm
I just unilaterally changed the topic title. If anyone other than fiend is particularly agitated by that I'll change it back again
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on April 24, 2019, 04:30:21 pm
can you take out the third comma?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on April 24, 2019, 04:30:41 pm
Shark!

That's blatant attention grabbing.

The whole world was tuning in to get your low down on a successful ascent of The Oak!

Back to climate change, Brexit etc

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on April 24, 2019, 04:36:13 pm
can you take out the third comma?

Done  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 24, 2019, 06:24:39 pm
can you take out the third comma?

Done  ;D

Can you just leave it how it was please? It is after all an acronym that had become a saying (to me at least).

If you’re bored and editing UKB why not endlessly gaze at google analytics instead?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 24, 2019, 06:28:27 pm
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11029.0.html

Double Standards.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 24, 2019, 06:54:14 pm
If you’re editing thread titles, can you remove the the misplaced - out of my “non-quality bouldering videos” thread?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on April 24, 2019, 06:55:10 pm
SMH. IMHO YYFY FTW...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on April 24, 2019, 06:57:10 pm

Can you just leave it how it was please? It is after all an acronym that had become a saying (to me at least).


But you'd write it down as YYFY if you posted a success on WhatsFacetaForumgramApp?  Doesn't it get blocked by work firewalls, used to for mine at least.

If you're going to reduce it to an acronym then take out all the commas and make it YYFY with as many !s as you feel are necessary

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 24, 2019, 07:05:42 pm
I concur with Nai.

YYFY is best.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on April 24, 2019, 07:09:07 pm
I concur with Nai.


YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 24, 2019, 07:34:53 pm

Can you just leave it how it was please? It is after all an acronym that had become a saying (to me at least).


But you'd write it down as YYFY if you posted a success on WhatsFacetaForumgramApp?  Doesn't it get blocked by work firewalls, used to for mine at least.

If you're going to reduce it to an acronym then take out all the commas and make it YYFY with as many !s as you feel are necessary

That’s what I meant. Leave it as YYFY- it’s even in my phone autocorrect.

Rtfm 😃
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 24, 2019, 08:22:54 pm
I am particularly agitated by this incessant nanny-stating over-conservatism. Less time fannying about with thread titles, more time fixing my broken avatar (which didn't have any swearing in it). Your man ClimbingSheep was being helpful but nothing has happened.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: user deactivated on April 24, 2019, 09:06:48 pm
So has the thread title gone from yes yes fucking yes to YYFY?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on April 24, 2019, 09:51:53 pm
I am particularly agitated by this incessant nanny-stating over-conservatism. Less time fannying about with thread titles, more time fixing my broken avatar (which didn't have any swearing in it). Your man ClimbingSheep was being helpful but nothing has happened.

Could I suggest a Make Fiend a New Avatar competition?

1st prize - An all-expenses-paid trip to Malham, with belaying by Shark
2nd prize - A philosophical walk in the woods with Dan (ayahuasca available)
3rd prize - Remote control car test drive
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: bigironhorse on April 24, 2019, 09:53:47 pm
Change back
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Steve R on April 24, 2019, 11:23:52 pm
I'd vote for reversion but....if the site needs sponsors and potential sponsors are so lame that the former title might put them off then fuck it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2019, 12:09:54 am
So has the thread title gone from yes yes fucking yes to YYFY?

Y
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DaveC on April 25, 2019, 01:30:38 am
Seems to me this thread is having an existential crisis!  :shrug: :P
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on April 25, 2019, 09:53:18 am
I am particularly agitated by this incessant nanny-stating over-conservatism. Less time fannying about with thread titles, more time fixing my broken avatar (which didn't have any swearing in it). Your man ClimbingSheep was being helpful but nothing has happened.

Could I suggest a Make Fiend a New Avatar competition?

1st prize - An all-expenses-paid trip to Malham, with belaying by Shark
2nd prize - A philosophical walk in the woods with Dan (ayahuasca available)
3rd prize - Remote control car test drive

You forgot “Matching Shell suits for the whole family” as part of the First prize.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on April 25, 2019, 09:59:19 am
I’d settle for a Fiend™ camo vest tbh...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Plattsy on April 25, 2019, 10:13:45 am
This thread identifies as an initialism and not as an acronym.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on April 25, 2019, 10:33:09 am
I'd vote for reversion but....if the site needs sponsors and potential sponsors are so lame that the former title might put them off then fuck it.

Yes that's part of it - we do need to gather some dosh for a site upgrade especially the design costs. It also looks naff now - as a mid 50's white, stale male I am at one with the zeitgeist and was in the mood to take control and have a rebellion in my extension - fuck yeah!   
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tc on April 25, 2019, 10:37:43 am
If you’re editing thread titles, can you remove the the misplaced - out of my “non-quality bouldering videos” thread?

Non-quality requires a hyphen, Mr Tyson. Compound adjective preceding the noun innit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on April 25, 2019, 11:21:04 am
I am at one with the zeitgeist and was in the mood to take control and have a rebellion in my extension - fuck yeah!

What’s the rebellion in your extension Shark?

Is there a group of Maoist rebels plotting in your conservatory? Or perhaps a bunch of Che wannabe’s calculating whether the bridges of Sheffield can take the weight of M1A Abraham’s tanks in your garden office/sauna?

Such a rich tapestry.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 25, 2019, 12:26:12 pm
If you’re editing thread titles, can you remove the the misplaced - out of my “non-quality bouldering videos” thread?

Non-quality requires a hyphen, Mr Tyson. Compound adjective preceding the noun innit.

Well blow me down with a feather, I’m not a total bafoon after all! Or am I?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on April 25, 2019, 03:34:13 pm
bafoon

Can't decide if this is intentional or not...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on April 25, 2019, 04:33:46 pm
Certainly not a bafoon.

 http://www.oxfordreference.com/view/10.1093/acref/9780199829941.001.0001/acref-9780199829941-e-1641
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on April 25, 2019, 05:48:25 pm
 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on April 30, 2019, 11:39:20 am
I am particularly agitated by this incessant nanny-stating over-conservatism. Less time fannying about with thread titles, more time fixing my broken avatar (which didn't have any swearing in it). Your man ClimbingSheep was being helpful but nothing has happened.

Could I suggest a Make Fiend a New Avatar competition?


Just knocked something up...

(https://cdn.fabrik.io/images/11wb/7ff4ad2f5d38286b.png)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on April 30, 2019, 12:50:45 pm
I am particularly agitated by this incessant nanny-stating over-conservatism. Less time fannying about with thread titles, more time fixing my broken avatar (which didn't have any swearing in it). Your man ClimbingSheep was being helpful but nothing has happened.

Could I suggest a Make Fiend a New Avatar competition?


not my work

NSFW  :
(http://i64.tinypic.com/23sc2v5.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SamT on April 30, 2019, 12:56:15 pm
Isn't that old cheese's avatar
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on April 30, 2019, 01:11:56 pm
It's alarmingly similar!

Yossarian: fix my guts enough so I can eat a burger carefree, and I will happily have that as my avatar. Assuming avatars work by then.....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 08, 2019, 09:57:14 pm
I was having a chat with Rich Heap the other day about always turning off power tools, before doing things like changing bits etc.

When I was about 9, I thought I'd learned a lesson about not using a knife to test if the filaments of toasters were broken.

Tonight, I thought I'd use the bread knife to unstick crumpets in my toaster..

..this knife:

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47806546051_8f99f0c662_h.jpg)

It had welded itself on. Toaster still works.

It's still raining. Still have a dicky finger, and no skin. Cool with that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 08, 2019, 10:24:15 pm
Using the knife is not an issue.

Not turning the frigging toaster off before you stick a lump of metal in it?
Different story.

You Plonker.

I, of course, have never done anything of a similar vein...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on May 08, 2019, 10:42:52 pm
That's impressive.... I'd have thought heating wire would have too much resistance for such a high current short to occur.

On a more practical note... I suspect my mum's present of these to me many years ago have saved my life during many tipsy supper-times.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lakeland-Magnetic-Wooden-Toast-Tongs/dp/B00I9TNXBM/ref=pd_sbs_201_1/262-4309358-0633530?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00I9TNXBM&pd_rd_r=af3d424b-71d9-11e9-8f6d-5558d0c85632&pd_rd_w=BVPDY&pd_rd_wg=nyX8f&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=6ARPR7Q8JH245W4DX6K6&psc=1&refRID=6ARPR7Q8JH245W4DX6K6
 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lakeland-Magnetic-Wooden-Toast-Tongs/dp/B00I9TNXBM/ref=pd_sbs_201_1/262-4309358-0633530?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00I9TNXBM&pd_rd_r=af3d424b-71d9-11e9-8f6d-5558d0c85632&pd_rd_w=BVPDY&pd_rd_wg=nyX8f&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=6ARPR7Q8JH245W4DX6K6&psc=1&refRID=6ARPR7Q8JH245W4DX6K6).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 08, 2019, 11:07:50 pm
Congratulations on still being alive DT! :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 09, 2019, 03:29:29 am

You Plonker.


Me? Yes, complete idiot, but a living one - though I'm still not convinced I really am.

Thanks all.

I don't know whether this makes it better or worse, but the butter knife I was using before was solid metal. It wasn't really sharp/flat/long enough, so I picked up the bread knife, which just happens to have a thick PVC handle.

Who knows, maybe it would have earthed anyway..  through me.

:slap:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on May 09, 2019, 06:53:31 am
Crumbs, that was a close call. You could've been toast. Use your loaf next time, a wooden spoon or spatula is the best of both options.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SamT on May 09, 2019, 08:59:27 am

Jesus Crust Dave, Butter not do that again!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 09, 2019, 09:38:59 am
You won’t baguette that in a hurry...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on May 09, 2019, 09:42:14 am
I once poked the glowing wires in a toaster with a fully metal fork (because I was idly curious to see if the wires flexed much when on...), queue a really big bright light and a half broken toaster. The only shock I can remember was realising how stupid I was.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on May 09, 2019, 10:11:32 am
PhD in physics yeah?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on May 09, 2019, 10:22:26 am
PhD in physics yeah?

I bet there was a solid state in his pants after that incident!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on May 09, 2019, 10:29:12 am
PhD in physics yeah?

this was before, I obviously wouldn't do it now :smartass:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on May 09, 2019, 10:32:40 am
Good to see education doesn't go to waste
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on May 09, 2019, 10:37:42 am
Years ago my band had the best home studio setup we ever had- our drummer lived in an end-terrace house and for the last months of his tenancy the house next door was empty and his housemate had to go home to Greece unexpectedly.

We set up drums, amps and mics in his basement and, with the aid of a long multicore, the recording gear in the vacant third-floor bedroom. The middle two floors could be used as seperate rooms for vocals etc if required but were still usable as his house, no neighbours were bothered or landlord's property damaged and when you muted the monitors in our control room you could barely hear the music being played two floors below. This combination is virtually impossible to achieve in a normal domestic environment.

Anyway, his freezer was in the basement and needed to be unplugged whenever we recorded. At the end of one session in that halcyon summer I plugged the freezer back in and found that the back of the mains plug had been partially cracked at some stage. I told our drummer and he assured me that he'd fix it the next day with a plug he had lying around.

A few days later, not knowing that he'd done absolutely nothing about it  ::), I went to pull the plug out and the cover cracked completely in two, snapping my fingers together round the exposed pins inside the plug.  :o Good job I was wearing trainers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on May 09, 2019, 11:02:03 am
When I was about 9, I thought I'd learned a lesson about not using a knife to test if the filaments of toasters were broken.

Maybe a refresher course is required in middle age - chucking petrol on a fire etc
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 09, 2019, 01:03:48 pm
PhD in physics yeah?

this was before, I obviously wouldn't do it now :smartass:

Yes, you would.

Which is why we have Engineers.






And Paramedics.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 09, 2019, 01:29:48 pm
Actually, of the subject of “YYFY I’m alive”...

Yesterday, I took down the last fluorescent lighting in the training room and replaced it with LED spots. (Please note, the breaker was off and I did not stick a knife into the old fittings to check they were off. Just saying).
Anyway, just above the Campus board, there was a a cracked ceiling tile, bulging out of the metal grid. It’s just one of those compressed  paper tile type suspended ceilings, easily damaged and I figured the gang of teenage lads that hang out here most days, had probably been throwing the Yoga balls around again.

So, I thought I’d quickly whip out the broken tile and slip in a new one. Three minutes, tops, including moving the ladder...



The Bunker is housed in a building built in 1848.

I tugged out the smaller corner of bulging tile.

I thought “that seems harder/tighter than I expected”.

Around 30kg of 200 year old lath and plaster, flashed past my face, just drawing a little blood from the tip of my nose.

Thank fuck for the habit of putting a ladder offset from the job at hand.

(https://i.ibb.co/DwYL3DT/4147339-A-52-A8-43-AF-B255-AA9-B7493-F0-A4.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 09, 2019, 03:02:55 pm
Some classics here  :lol:

And Shark, we hadn't forgotten  ;D

We could have a Darwin Awards thread? Anyone?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 09, 2019, 03:07:00 pm
Some classics here  :lol:

And Shark, we hadn't forgotten  ;D

We could have a Darwin Awards thread? Anyone?

Just start one Dave.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 09, 2019, 04:23:25 pm
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,12077.msg210353.html#msg210353

the carking it thread.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2019, 09:05:59 am
First session on project of the year and it goes down. FA and second ascent within minutes of each other. New beta critical to success. Probably only 6C+ or so, but as mate said, he's done easier 7As. Brilliant moves though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on May 16, 2019, 10:12:48 am
Nice one Chris!
It must be cooler in the East than it is over this side.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 16, 2019, 10:29:36 am
Was wierd last night, sunny but cool on the coast, haar sitting literally a mile offshore, slightly greasy but not terrible; you could weirdly see your breath in the shade. About 7 as the sun was passing over the wind changed direction and a bank of fog descended, temp dropped about 8 degrees and everything went from climbable to totally gopping.

Shout if you are ever in the area and fancy climbing something new.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on May 16, 2019, 06:02:40 pm
Sure! Often over to visit the in-laws in Torry.
Boiling here, heard it was 24 degrees down the road in Kinlochewe!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2019, 10:29:13 am
There's actually a nice little spot really near Torry, just below Girdleness Lighthouse. It's tidal (see vid! https://vimeo.com/41606238) but 1 min walk in and a nice spot. Can even do without a pad if there is sand (sometimes isn't after storms). More potential for pottering about in that area, including an easy DWS at high tide. Park just by entrance to lighthouse.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on May 17, 2019, 07:56:12 pm
Well, I never knew that!
Will certainly check it out next time we visit.
Cheers!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 20, 2019, 09:50:15 am
Tim Rankin did some stuff round the corner too, but TBH it was a bit small, and is about to be buried under a few thousand tons of concrete.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 28, 2019, 02:41:58 pm
Lunchtime boulder prob in the woods went down today. 4th session, but first in proper good cold conditions and with new shoes which really help with first move. Only 3 hard moves, but had never managed to link first 2 before. Did them 4 times today, but failed each time on blind footwork to reach the finishing hold before eventually getting feet in right place, mostly by luck.

going with "hard from me must be 6C" but could be a full grade either way.

Really wanted to do it before finishing work here, made it with 2 and a half weeks to spare..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 10, 2019, 11:31:39 am
Since I'm getting my knee surgery this Thursday I decided to have another body composition scan to check things pre and post operation.
I wasn't feeling very confident though, because as of late I've eaten a lot, and I was very unhappy about my form.
Turns out that yes, I've put up one kg of pure, unadulterated lard, but I've also slightly increased my lean mass, my metabolism, and I'm at the top of my physical abilities, much better than 5 years ago!
 :punk: :punk: :punk: :punk: :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on July 03, 2019, 09:40:42 pm
pb in the half crimp 10 s hang on the fingerboard with about 1.5%
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on July 03, 2019, 09:53:03 pm
Forte forte forte! 💪
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on July 04, 2019, 08:31:36 am
je t'en prie! The trick is apparently to do no hang boarding but to try hard on climbs during a brutal heat wave.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 04, 2019, 09:07:26 am
Forte forte forte! 💪
This is brilliant! Where does it come from?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on July 04, 2019, 10:03:05 am

This is brilliant! Where does it come from?

It was from some Québécois, seems more fitting for bouldering than allez!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 04, 2019, 10:14:41 am
 :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 04, 2019, 07:44:10 pm
Haven’t done one of these in ages - but I’m absolutely made up to get Arch Enemies on Reynards Arch done today. A real yyfy moment latching the jug. I’ve been trying it on and off since 2014.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JCorbot on July 04, 2019, 07:55:42 pm
Hi WTF, nice one one the ascent. I was wondering did you jam or lay away the awkward crack bit? Hope that’s not a silly question!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 04, 2019, 08:15:16 pm
Hi WTF, nice one one the ascent. I was wondering did you jam or lay away the awkward crack bit? Hope that’s not a silly question!

Not a silly question at all, I used a lay away though I would love to have the ability to jam it. Have you done it? The trick today was waiting for the school groups to disperse, I wish I’d gone to the Arch at that age.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JCorbot on July 04, 2019, 08:38:35 pm
I think the term is ‘dogged’ years ago with the lead singer of The Cure. Although he wasn’t wearing the compulsory smeared lipstick that day. Jamming is a difficult technique WTF, maybe you should consider ‘crack school’? I know I am.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on July 04, 2019, 08:52:04 pm
‘Dogged years ago’ would be a good companion route to the Curbar route of a similar name. Good luck on the course, I thought it was just ‘punter money harvesting’ but it seems to be a very useful course. I don’t know why they don’t make branded jamming gloves, you could ask them for me?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JCorbot on July 04, 2019, 09:40:24 pm
My jamming days are over WTF. I’m focusing on limestone before I start to get older. I did get gorilla at curbar recently but didn’t manage to get early doors. Any beta great fully received
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on July 04, 2019, 10:39:33 pm
Boss day on friendly clean waves at the seaside. Sacked off work. Megaaaaa. Cleanest surf i've ever had at cayton, met an old mate out on the waves who I haven't seen for a few years. My paddling fitness (and probably technique) seems to be my weakness as I could barely walk back to the car after due to fatigue! Psyched off my face.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 05, 2019, 01:03:32 am
..before I start to get older..

I am impressed JC. Have you resorted to Cryogenics?

FWIW I was about 23 when I thought I'd better start concentrating on climbing big hills instead of limestone. I was about 49 when I sacked off running, and decided to (try to) get strong again.

Less of this getting older blox please. It's a load of crap - somewhere between shit and pooh!

Get on it! :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on July 05, 2019, 01:15:35 am
Haven’t done one of these in ages - but I’m absolutely made up to get Arch Enemies on Reynards Arch done today. A real yyfy moment latching the jug. I’ve been trying it on and off since 2014.

Well done Woody  :clap2: That's a great effort.

Psyched by the psyche!
And Dunny G. Sounds great.  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JCorbot on July 05, 2019, 07:18:26 am
Thanks for the positive message DT, I gave up running a few years ago now due to the onset of a degenerative lumbar condition. I too am hoping to shrink my thighs and grow my ‘guns’. There is something beautiful about the climbing physique is there not? Also poo is the preferred nomenclature. C*** is used by angry conservative types and quite unpleasant.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AJM on July 06, 2019, 08:39:24 pm
Onsighted Colors down at Wallsend earlier this week  :dance1:

Cracking route, either my first 7b onsight in the UK ever and anywhere since 2015, or possibly (going by the guidebook grade) my first 7b+ onsight. <Or possibly just another 7a+, such is the variety of opinion>

But either way, a very good route, a mega fight and a tribute to the power of just trying really hard. Very pleased!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on July 06, 2019, 08:46:02 pm
Nice! I've tried to teach myself to just “take the grade” when climbing sport onsight at the absolute max of what I can do. It is so difficult to know how much is down to blind luck with the sequence vs. how easy/hard it is for the grade. Several time when I have revisited routes I've done onsight that I was sure was wrongly graded I found that after work the grade made sense.

Trust the weak people who have to redpoint the route :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on July 06, 2019, 08:50:27 pm
I was literally just looking at that section of Wallsend in the guide. Wondering whether I could tempt a partner with the promise of Trad Free World, etc so I could have a crack at that...

It looks brilliant anyhow - congrats!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AJM on July 06, 2019, 09:05:24 pm
I was literally just looking at that section of Wallsend in the guide. Wondering whether I could tempt a partner with the promise of Trad Free World, etc so I could have a crack at that...

It looks brilliant anyhow - congrats!

Thanks  :) (and jwl too)

I've still got all the 7b-ish things to do on the wall just left (Reverence, Halfway to Heaven etc), so very happy to go back if you need a catch at some point ..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on July 07, 2019, 10:23:31 am
Nice one AJM, great route and for what it's worth I found Colours pretty tough back in ~2002 (god I'm old)
Yoss, you should def get down there, that bit of Wallsend is prob my favourite sector of Portland, and Trad Free World is ace.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on August 09, 2019, 08:22:48 am
Fractured neck of scapula 3.5 weeks ago.
First pull ups last night
YYFY  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2019, 08:37:06 am
What did you do?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on August 09, 2019, 09:14:46 am
Came off MTB trying to keep up with my son  :-[  :lol:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 09, 2019, 10:04:48 am
Good news Nik!
 ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on August 09, 2019, 11:41:09 am
Cheers Nibs  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 09, 2019, 12:22:30 pm
Not smart, but at least you are recovering..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 09, 2019, 12:43:59 pm
80s legend Craig Smith banged himself up on mtb a couple of months ago - dangerous stuff.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 26, 2019, 05:44:48 pm
I did a 7A! Le Quark / Elecubration at Sabots. At least 15 years since the last one, which I can barely remember anyway. Thought I was going to get Graviton too, but the (very hot) sun was on the top holds and felt quite trashed by that point. One full day to go, so we’re going to try for some more there tomorrow. Yay!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on August 26, 2019, 05:57:46 pm
Yes mate! Good work :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petekitso on August 26, 2019, 07:15:14 pm
Nice one Yossarian.

Looking good for Azazel in the Autumn . . .
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on August 26, 2019, 07:42:13 pm
Yess Yoss!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on August 26, 2019, 07:59:35 pm
Nice Yoss  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 26, 2019, 09:01:05 pm
I was taking about you today Nik
- both to Czech guy and my daughter - lamenting how precisely none of your skill rubbed off on me at all...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on August 26, 2019, 09:22:37 pm
 :lol: :lol: :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 26, 2019, 11:28:54 pm
Not really a YYFY yet, but I'm so relieved to have any firm news that I'm jumping the gun. I've just been offered a newly established professorship in history at Copenhagen Business School. CBS is regarded as amongst the best business schools in the world and is probably (TM) the best centre in the world in my own discipline. I should be made up but right now we're just exhausted by what has been a tortuous process (I won't go into the grisly details). 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on August 27, 2019, 08:55:22 am
Good work Andy. I'm sure it'll sink in soon and you'll be happy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 27, 2019, 09:11:22 am
Nice Andy, how soon is that happening??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 27, 2019, 01:49:40 pm
Potentially very soon (Sept/Oct), though there's a lot to put in place.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 27, 2019, 01:53:07 pm
Wow. You globetrotter you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on August 27, 2019, 04:41:50 pm
Wow. Congratulations Andy! That’s brilliant news.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 27, 2019, 05:24:38 pm
Congratulations Andy. Hope it  all goes well for you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 27, 2019, 05:25:59 pm
Congratulations Andy.
Better than CIA...

Bit flat around there, mind.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 27, 2019, 06:09:57 pm
Potentially very soon (Sept/Oct), though there's a lot to put in place.

👍👍
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 28, 2019, 09:19:07 am
Congratulations Andy.
Better than CIA...

Bit flat around there, mind.
But some of the best indoor climbing ever.
Congrats man!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on August 28, 2019, 09:45:27 am
Nice one Andy! So pleased this seems to have worked out for you!!  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on August 28, 2019, 11:19:25 am
I love the idea of a Copenhagen Business School press release confirming your appointment, explaining, “Popp chose to announce his acceptance of this new professorial position via the YES YES FUCKING YES pages of UK Bouldering”.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 28, 2019, 11:24:57 am
Does this mean a move is on the cards? It feels like a stupid question but I know some academics have positions at institutions where they work mostly remotely.

Nice one, Andy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 28, 2019, 11:25:43 am
Out of interest Andy, in your Academic career, how many students / peers have know about you for your climbing exploits?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on August 28, 2019, 11:51:04 am
Does this mean a move is on the cards? It feels like a stupid question but I know some academics have positions at institutions where they work mostly remotely.

If, like TomTom, you're going to be commuting from Pennsylvania to Denmark, stopping off and bouldering at variopus locations on the way then I for one would love to read about it on Power Club.  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 28, 2019, 12:24:17 pm
OTOH if you're relocating, fancy a trip to Bohuslan once you're settled??  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on August 28, 2019, 02:53:24 pm
Well done Andy. Copenhagen though...didn't they have anything at INSEAD?  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 28, 2019, 03:23:51 pm
I've never mastered quoting from multiple posts, so ...

@Will Hunt - I know many academic families who live spread out over often great distances, but we will be moving (slight caveat: salary negotiations not yet concluded) which means @cheque, not transatlantic bouldering sessions.

@SAChris, early in my career I taught fatboyslimfast, of this parish, so at least one

@Fiend, a nice idea, if only I were currently actually a climber in any meaningful sense (we'll see what the future brings)

@duncan, if only ...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 28, 2019, 04:21:47 pm
Does this mean a move is on the cards? It feels like a stupid question but I know some academics have positions at institutions where they work mostly remotely.

If, like TomTom, you're going to be commuting from Pennsylvania to Denmark, stopping off and bouldering at variopus locations on the way then I for one would love to read about it on Power Club.  ;)

Bermuda?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 28, 2019, 04:32:37 pm
Does this mean a move is on the cards? It feels like a stupid question but I know some academics have positions at institutions where they work mostly remotely.

If, like TomTom, you're going to be commuting from Pennsylvania to Denmark, stopping off and bouldering at variopus locations on the way then I for one would love to read about it on Power Club.  ;)

Bermuda?

Schipol more likely 😃
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on September 21, 2019, 08:21:16 am
After 31 years in the Fire Service, this morning I wake up and I am officially retired.

Bloody fantastic!!!!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 21, 2019, 08:28:25 am
 And the sun is shining, nice one Sméagol  :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 21, 2019, 08:36:25 am
After 31 years in the Fire Service, this morning I wake up and I am officially retired.

Bloody fantastic!!!!!!

Excellent! Full time climbing ? ;) or got other plans?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on September 21, 2019, 12:07:08 pm
After 31 years in the Fire Service, this morning I wake up and I am officially retired.

Bloody fantastic!!!!!!

Excellent! Full time climbing ? ;) or got other plans?

That is most definitely the plan. Full time climbing, running and snowboarding in winter.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 23, 2019, 09:02:01 am
Awesome. Enjoy it. Still at least a decade for me before i even think about it..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 27, 2019, 10:31:10 pm
14 sessions this year, multiple dryfires when feeling good, two split tips, and had to wait for snow to send.  But it finally got done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on September 27, 2019, 10:57:13 pm
14 sessions this year, multiple dryfires when feeling good, two split tips, and had to wait for snow to send.  But it finally got done!
When do we get to see it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 28, 2019, 01:43:11 am
Working on it :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Sasquatch on September 28, 2019, 07:18:05 pm
Working on it :)

It's now up in the non-quality bouldering vids thread.
Here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg590764/topicseen.html#msg590764 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg590764/topicseen.html#msg590764)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on October 11, 2019, 03:06:15 pm
Anyone need a heavily used kneepad - now surplus to requirements   ;D

https://youtu.be/z_BNFXPRUlo
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on October 11, 2019, 03:20:27 pm
FUCK YEAH!!!!

Awesome YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 205Chris on October 11, 2019, 03:25:18 pm
Nice one Simon.

The year I climbed Ben's roof I also climbed 8b. Just sayin'

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 11, 2019, 03:30:28 pm
Bravo Simon!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on October 11, 2019, 03:31:31 pm
Thanks chaps
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 11, 2019, 03:32:37 pm
Nice one Simon.

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on October 11, 2019, 03:44:58 pm
Excellent
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: reeve on October 11, 2019, 03:51:35 pm
Great to see, well done! Like the video title too
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on October 11, 2019, 04:10:43 pm
Brilliant Simon  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: winhill on October 11, 2019, 04:19:19 pm
Nice to see a vid with a decent soundtrack, well done Simon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 11, 2019, 04:22:39 pm
Pretty much a 7C-ish climber...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on October 11, 2019, 04:27:42 pm
Yay - congrats!

Solid B4...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 11, 2019, 04:31:03 pm
Brilliant-ish stuff.
Congratulations!!!
 :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on October 11, 2019, 04:45:47 pm
Even the dog looked impressed.

(Well done!)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on October 11, 2019, 05:02:45 pm
Crushed it.  :thumbsup: Oak next.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on October 11, 2019, 05:39:27 pm
Thanks folks. Very happy, still buzzing. Was thinking I’d developed a head problem. Feels like a lot of pent up frustration has evaporated from my head. Having a celebratory pint in the Rising Sun

 :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on October 11, 2019, 05:43:58 pm
Having a celebratory pint in the Rising Sun

Absolution I hope?
https://www.abbeydalebrewery.co.uk/home/beers/regulars/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on October 11, 2019, 05:46:22 pm
Deception!

What really happened behind the bush?!  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on October 11, 2019, 06:05:17 pm
Yes mate, solid!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on October 11, 2019, 06:29:04 pm
Deception!

What really happened behind the bush?!  ;D
I wondered if you’d got caught short possibly as result of taking laxis in order to lose weight.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mic_b on October 11, 2019, 06:31:20 pm
Congratulations! You looked so solid on it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Doylo on October 11, 2019, 06:35:34 pm
Smashed it a new A-Hole. Effort
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 11, 2019, 07:27:52 pm
All done on a green screen at the new Depot in Sheffield... 😃
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on October 11, 2019, 07:28:09 pm
Weather has been really bad last few weeks and Tor is the most reliable wet weather option hence the crowds on Sunday with it being a weekend which is when I took the IG pic. Much better midweek. Just 2 others at crag on Tuesday who’d both bailed from Blackwell. Was pretty ugly weather this morning so surprised that there were a dozen when I got there but most left after I warmed up (inc mic_b) just leaving Theo E and partner.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Teaboy on October 11, 2019, 08:01:25 pm
This is awesome Shark. I'm inspired
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: T_B on October 11, 2019, 08:02:43 pm
Good work - looking streng!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 11, 2019, 08:02:57 pm
Well done Simon
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on October 11, 2019, 08:42:51 pm
Well done. A great problem
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AndyR on October 11, 2019, 08:46:32 pm
This is awesome Shark. I'm inspired
Yep - that is genuinely very cool - good job!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 11, 2019, 08:51:12 pm
I'm beginning to beLeeve again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on October 11, 2019, 09:01:03 pm
Nice Shark  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on October 11, 2019, 09:44:09 pm
Chapeau!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 11, 2019, 10:11:50 pm
Remarkably restrained celebrations. When I matched the arete on Red Baron there was a lot more noise going on!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 12, 2019, 05:59:59 am
Huzzah! Fantastic effort Simon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 12, 2019, 08:14:33 am
(https://i.imgur.com/3tIeqrT.jpg)

That’s more like it 👍👍👏👏
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 12, 2019, 08:25:03 am
(https://i.imgur.com/3tIeqrT.jpg)

That’s more like it 👍👍👏👏

When I saw that on FB, I thought “could the dogs look any more embarrassed?”

Well done, Si. Quite the coup!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: 36chambers on October 12, 2019, 09:11:06 am
Pretty much a 7C-ish climber...

Only 9 more to go! ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on October 12, 2019, 01:15:48 pm
Fantastic Simon, well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on October 12, 2019, 05:08:39 pm
Well done Shark. 5 years, isn't that an onsight for you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on October 24, 2019, 07:20:21 am
10 week trip nearly over.
First 7C done! Super Nova in Magic Wood.
But more importantly, I ticked my life list problem 2 days ago. Deliverance. 😁
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hugh on October 24, 2019, 07:32:52 am
10 week trip nearly over.
First 7C done! Super Nova in Magic Wood.
But more importantly, I ticked my life list problem 2 days ago. Deliverance. 😁

Congrats man, that's ace!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 24, 2019, 09:23:02 am
Effort Jack! You should have said you were about!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on October 24, 2019, 09:43:42 am
10 week trip nearly over.
First 7C done! Super Nova in Magic Wood.
But more importantly, I ticked my life list problem 2 days ago. Deliverance. 😁

Good work, Jack. What else did you do while over? I think a trip report is in order.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on October 24, 2019, 02:44:17 pm
10 week trip nearly over.
First 7C done! Super Nova in Magic Wood.
But more importantly, I ticked my life list problem 2 days ago. Deliverance. 😁
Good effort, such a solid line. Did you do a victory river run?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 24, 2019, 04:50:38 pm
Supernova always reminds me about a couple of hours I spent there with the Crouch, trying to climb it on the lip and judging it nails at 7c.
Not a single one of the climbers there, pointed out to us that it is climbed as a bear hug roof and not a lip traverse.
Good memories.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on October 25, 2019, 11:44:42 am
Effort Jack! You should have said you were about!
Cheers! Less than a week left. Will try and get on grit Monday/Tuesday hopefully.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: monkoffunk on October 25, 2019, 04:14:32 pm
Supernova always reminds me about a couple of hours I spent there with the Crouch, trying to climb it on the lip and judging it nails at 7c.
Not a single one of the climbers there, pointed out to us that it is climbed as a bear hug roof and not a lip traverse.
Good memories.

They must have thought you were trying Super Supernova!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on October 27, 2019, 09:48:31 pm
Some joy to share for once - just got home from a lamp session crushing my first 7B+ boulder problem.  :dance1:

A humble grade in the scheme of things, but significant for me for 3 reasons:

1. I first climbed 7B 10 years ago and have plateaued there ever since.

2. I broke my arm pretty badly trad climbing in March and this confirms I am back to full strength.

3. Aside from the grade, it is one of the best problems I’ve ever done. For anyone down visiting, Evening Song at Carn Brea is well worth seeking out. Crucial, very unusual, beta available on request!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 27, 2019, 09:55:49 pm
Some joy to share for once - just got from a lamp session crushing my first 7B+ boulder problem.  :dance1:

A humble grade in the scheme of things, but significant for me for 3 reasons:

1. I first climbed 7B 10 years ago and have plateaued there ever since.

2. I broke my arm pretty badly trad climbing in March and this confirms I am back to full strength.

3. Aside from the grade, it is one of the best problems I’ve ever done. For anyone down visiting, Evening Song at Carn Brea is well worth seeking out. Crucial, very unusual, beta available on request!

Well done, nothing like the feeling of progress.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on October 27, 2019, 10:04:20 pm
Cheers. Hopefully this link to a video of Andy Whall of this parish making the FA will work: https://vimeo.com/257547914

A knee pad wrapped around your calf helps a lot.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BrutusTheBear on October 27, 2019, 11:11:18 pm
Good work KH glad that arms healed up well. TBH I am surprised that 7b is your max. Reckon  you can do something harder but I guess you put much of your precious time and energy into scaring yourself with string and warthogs!!

Was a mint day in the SW today, felt like autumn had arrived, had a little punt around Bonehill repeating some classics.  Feeling like some form and confidence is coming back after busting my ankle last year. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 28, 2019, 06:27:36 am
Nice one Kh!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 28, 2019, 07:47:19 am
That looks a grim thrutch. Glad you enjoyed doing it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on October 28, 2019, 07:55:07 pm
TBH I am surprised that 7b is your max. Reckon  you can do something harder

Part of the issue is that I lack the mental fortitude for a proper siege.

This took me four sessions - that felt long enough, and it’s only 15 minutes from my house.

Ps - glad you’re on the mend too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on October 28, 2019, 08:01:11 pm
That looks excellent, nice one kingholmsey. Will try and make time to have a look for this next time I'm visiting the folks
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 28, 2019, 08:05:14 pm
That looks excellent, nice one kingholmsey. Will try and make time to have a look for this next time I'm visiting the folks

Get sandpapering that ankle to get some thick skin built up!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy W on October 29, 2019, 12:24:02 pm
Some joy to share for once - just got home from a lamp session crushing my first 7B+ boulder problem.  :dance1:

A humble grade in the scheme of things, but significant for me for 3 reasons:

1. I first climbed 7B 10 years ago and have plateaued there ever since.

2. I broke my arm pretty badly trad climbing in March and this confirms I am back to full strength.

3. Aside from the grade, it is one of the best problems I’ve ever done. For anyone down visiting, Evening Song at Carn Brea is well worth seeking out. Crucial, very unusual, beta available on request!

Glad you enjoyed Evening Song, it took me a while to arrive at that beta, but kind of more fun for it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on October 31, 2019, 04:30:10 pm
After 3 1/2 years of work, I just submitted my PhD thesis. Halloween and fake-brexit day seems an auspicious and appropriate day for it!

Thexit has finally come.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 31, 2019, 04:52:26 pm
Congratulations! Its a big achievement and a great feeling. A successful viva is even better.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 31, 2019, 05:01:08 pm
After 3 1/2 years of work, I just submitted my PhD thesis. Halloween and fake-brexit day seems an auspicious and appropriate day for it!

Thexit has finally come.

Brilliant and 3.5 years is good work! Chapeau!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 31, 2019, 06:13:26 pm
Good effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on November 01, 2019, 10:46:17 pm
Cheers all! In honesty, the overwhelming feeling is just relief! It will be nice to get my life back again though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 02, 2019, 02:05:52 pm
Moving to Hathersage at the end of the year.
YYFY  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: robertostallioni on November 02, 2019, 02:43:37 pm
Fucking hell I thought you’d died. I’m in sheff quite a bit now pal. I reckon I might actually see you at some point!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on November 02, 2019, 02:52:32 pm
Moving from a desolate, impoverished, isolationist island? Oh wait, sorry, moving to a desolate, impoverished, isolationist island. Congratulations!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2019, 05:50:30 pm
Well there goes the Isle Of Man esoterica guided tour that I foolishly kept putting off  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 02, 2019, 06:25:01 pm
Still just about alive Stallion, I'll give you a shout when I'm over  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 02, 2019, 06:37:56 pm
Moving to Hathersage at the end of the year.
YYFY  ;D
:punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 02, 2019, 06:40:26 pm
 Very funny Andy. Not sure either place could be described as impoverished by anyones standards...

Fiend I'll still be heading back over regularly, and Dougie is still a very willing resident tour guide (and you get to climb with Dougie Hall  :dance1:)

Cheers Nibs  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 05, 2019, 09:53:39 pm
Moving to Hathersage at the end of the year.
YYFY  ;D

excellent news!

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 05, 2019, 10:25:01 pm
It really really is.

Thanks Lagers  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 06, 2019, 11:09:28 am
There goes the neighborhood.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaqGcWU7IzU

 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 12, 2019, 03:03:35 pm
Not really a YYFY yet, but I'm so relieved to have any firm news that I'm jumping the gun. I've just been offered a newly established professorship in history at Copenhagen Business School. CBS is regarded as amongst the best business schools in the world and is probably (TM) the best centre in the world in my own discipline. I should be made up but right now we're just exhausted by what has been a tortuous process (I won't go into the grisly details).

God, this has turned out to be complicated and stressful ... but we fly out tomorrow. I've basically stopped climbing this year and am tremendously out of shape, but there's what looks like a good gym near work so I'm determined to start going at lunchtime etc.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on November 12, 2019, 03:11:30 pm
Sounds like you are almost there, a wall round the corner sounds good!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on November 12, 2019, 04:02:08 pm
Good to hear that you're almost there Andy.
Similarly barely climbed and horribly out of shape in the run up to a big move... and similar plans to address once relocated... here's to the future :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on November 12, 2019, 04:36:55 pm
Nice one Andy - weirdly, through playing Fifa with mates I've a fondness for FC Kovenhavn and hope to get over there for a game one day!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on November 18, 2019, 02:18:43 pm
My eight-year-old daughter came second in her first Blokfest on Saturday. This emotional rollercoaster started earlier in the season when she told her coach that she hated comps and just wanted to go climbing outside. The day started with me getting us lost so we arrived late and missed the warm up, followed by a few tears. Some moments later she was watching much older girls fall off things which she then clinically flashed. Super proud of her...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on December 09, 2019, 02:50:41 pm

Aims for 2019:

2. Change my work status.


After more than a year of negotiations and several false dawns I've finally got agreement I can change my type of work (recognition on what I've been doing for the last 5 years) and reduce working hours. Less money but hopefully a better life.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 09, 2019, 03:01:20 pm
Congrats Duncan, sounds good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on December 09, 2019, 08:47:24 pm
Congrats Duncan and Yossarian (proud Dad)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 10, 2019, 01:59:35 pm
I had the strangest job interview yesterday.

I’ve had some odd ones, over the years, but this one was a doozy.

Had to meet LtCDR “X” at HMS Collingwood main gate, 12:45hrs 09/12/19. Formal attire.

Expecting a uniformed escort (from the enlisted rates), I was totally wrong footed when this (older than expected) bloke popped up in a tweed suit and tartan waistcoat.
He launched straight into the “interview” there in the guard house and as we walked to the Wardroom.

I was expecting a phalanx of gold braid and penetrating questions etc.
Got a 1:1 fireside chat over a pot of tea.

I asked if he want to see my portfolio of evidence and certification etc, at one point.
He said “no need, old chap, got all that”(wtf? How?).

Anyway.

Ended with him asking me for a lift to Fareham station, because he had “business in the city” and his official transport had been called away. Then he said I’d got the job.

LtCDR my arse.

Anyway, should be starting in March, barring the unforeseen.
Can’t say what, not secret or anything, but sensitive. I will however, be getting an RN uniform, with MN rank insignia (think Wavy Navy of WW2 era).



Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on December 10, 2019, 02:11:15 pm
At moments like this I defer to Mr David Shrigley;


CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR FANTASTIC ACHIEVEMENT
Me and your mum have no idea what it is or whats good about it but you're a nice lad so well done anyway.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on December 13, 2019, 11:39:28 am
A positive outcome from yesterdays colonoscopy.
Massive relief and no better feeling! (The result,that is, not the actual examination....).
Weeks of worry have just evaporated.
Have a great new year UKB!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 13, 2019, 11:42:12 am
And I got my advanced private stool test kit in the post today. Big up the bowel-testing massive  :shit: :dance1: :shit: :punk: :shit:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 13, 2019, 12:38:36 pm
I got my all important Danish health card in the post this morning ... along with, in a separate letter, an invitation for bowel cancer screening. Big up to Danish health care, I'm impressed already.

And congrats to Sherlock, that must feel wonderful (and yeah, not the actual exam)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2019, 01:33:43 pm
I was impressed with the NHS efficiency, I got a test kit within 2 days of turning 50.

I'll miss it when its gone.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on December 13, 2019, 01:50:52 pm
I was impressed with the NHS efficiency, I got a test kit within 2 days of turning 50.

I'll miss it when its gone.

The test kit?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2019, 01:51:27 pm
Bowel cancer, see post above.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on December 13, 2019, 01:55:48 pm
No cancer bum jokes then huh
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on December 13, 2019, 02:07:26 pm
Good to hear that people aren't poo-pooing the idea of bowel screening.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on December 13, 2019, 02:14:30 pm
I’m fairly sure you don’t get the bowel cancer kit in England until you are 60.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 13, 2019, 02:22:05 pm
55 apparently.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on December 13, 2019, 02:31:03 pm
Mine arrived on my 50th birthday and every two years since. The kit was recently updated and simplified so now you only need 1 sample instead of three.
This is Scotland by the way.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 13, 2019, 03:25:16 pm
Mine arrived on my 50th birthday and every two years since. The kit was recently updated and simplified so now you only need 1 sample instead of three.
This is Scotland by the way.

In Scotland they take shit seriously.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2019, 03:31:25 pm
I think it's a bigger issue in Scotland than England. all the deep fried Haggis and other bad dietary habits.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 13, 2019, 03:36:21 pm
I think it's a bigger issue in Scotland than England. all the deep fried Haggis and other bad dietary habits.

I thought the Haggis was protected now and on the endangered list due to habitat destruction and over hunting? 

Have they been reintroduced to the Highlands? Or is it sustainable farming?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on December 13, 2019, 03:48:20 pm
Success. For those who enjoy minging lime crimp traversing: https://www.facebook.com/mischahy/videos/978422769207411/

Be warned I waffle on for a bit in surprise afterwards.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on December 13, 2019, 03:58:03 pm
55 apparently.
In England.
At 55 you get invited to attend for a one off test if it’s available in your area.
At 60 you get sent a home testing kit every 2 years.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on December 13, 2019, 04:09:00 pm
Success. For those who enjoy minging lime crimp traversing: https://www.facebook.com/mischahy/videos/978422769207411/

Be warned I waffle on for a bit in surprise afterwards.
Nice one, well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2019, 04:38:26 pm
I think it's a bigger issue in Scotland than England. all the deep fried Haggis and other bad dietary habits.

I thought the Haggis was protected now and on the endangered list due to habitat destruction and over hunting? 

Have they been reintroduced to the Highlands? Or is it sustainable farming?

There has been issues as the left walking ones are being overrun by the right walking ones, so there is a cull of right handed ones, and reintroduction of the left walking ones in protected areas.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 13, 2019, 04:42:22 pm
I think it's a bigger issue in Scotland than England. all the deep fried Haggis and other bad dietary habits.

I thought the Haggis was protected now and on the endangered list due to habitat destruction and over hunting? 

Have they been reintroduced to the Highlands? Or is it sustainable farming?

There has been issues as the left walking ones are being overrun by the right walking ones, so there is a cull of right handed ones, and reintroduction of the left walking ones in protected areas.

I thought the left walkers were threatened by over building/development on South facing slopes?


I’ll get my coat.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on December 13, 2019, 08:37:57 pm
Success. For those who enjoy minging lime crimp traversing: https://www.facebook.com/mischahy/videos/978422769207411/

Be warned I waffle on for a bit in surprise afterwards.
Nice one, well done

Cheers, the full line gets 8B+ so plenty left to work on  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: highrepute on December 13, 2019, 11:01:17 pm
Success. For those who enjoy minging lime crimp traversing: https://www.facebook.com/mischahy/videos/978422769207411/

Be warned I waffle on for a bit in surprise afterwards.
Nice one, well done

Cheers, the full line gets 8B+ so plenty left to work on  ;D

Where is the problem and what's it called?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on December 14, 2019, 09:52:32 am
Success. For those who enjoy minging lime crimp traversing: https://www.facebook.com/mischahy/videos/978422769207411/

Be warned I waffle on for a bit in surprise afterwards.
Nice one, well done

Cheers, the full line gets 8B+ so plenty left to work on  ;D

Where is the problem and what's it called?

The full problem is called 'Feuerwalze', it's in the Swabian Alb in Germany. Access is a little sensitive so I'd rather not post an exact location but happy to give directions via email :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: crzylgs on December 14, 2019, 11:49:30 am
^^ all you peeps having the bowel cancer checks, good stuff, spread the wisdom, even having a colonoscopy is an incredibly mild and virtually pain free experience. I know it makes for a very easy 'butt stuff' joke, but honestly don't ever think twice about having one and encourage friends and relatives to do the same  :2thumbsup:

The initial poster mentioned relief after a check... No idea of the situation, but if there was sign/symptom that prompted the check and initial worry... and if these symptoms persist or increase then immediately go back to docs and get a second opinion/check etc.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 18, 2019, 09:07:45 am
Just paid off my student loan.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 18, 2019, 03:09:09 pm
Well done Cheque. Seems like your moniker is apt after all.

I smashed my hand into a protruding bit of masonry whilst running next to a wall in the dark. Very swollen and sore. School nurse thought it might be broken  :'(

X-ray shows it’s all intact.

I’m so happy! (albeit not about the swollen/sore bit)  :bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 18, 2019, 03:26:18 pm
Well done Cheque. Seems like your moniker is apt after all.

I smashed my hand into a protruding bit of masonry whilst running next to a wall in the dark. Very swollen and sore. School nurse thought it might be broken  :'(

X-ray shows it’s all intact.

I’m so happy! (albeit not about the swollen/sore bit)  :bounce:

Aren’t you a bit old for school?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 18, 2019, 05:22:15 pm
Afraid I’m a very slow learner.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 30, 2019, 06:36:33 pm
Went to Pex Hill today. The rock was cool and the air crisp, fresh, and filled with familiar sounds and smells. Most everything was wet, but the eliminate section on Pisa was in great nick. I warmed up and banished the chill from my fingers. I started doing trickier things and that thing happened where it all just clicks. I was carrying momentum well and was really aware of all the subtle little things you do to float between the holds - like little hip flicks and pushing down hard with your trailing hand.
It was just magic. I moved onto South West Overhang which must have two of the worst holds in the world on it. They're effectively monos. I've tried it once in 2013 and once in 2016. You crimp the living fuck out of these two dreadful holds, get the left foot high and rock up as far as you can and grab a decent 2/3 finger edge and finish easily. The conditions were just about good enough but I wasn't pulling hard enough on the holds. And then, I pulled down like mad, absolutely boning these crimps, and I fucking did it.

The whole session was just Y, Y, F, and fucking Y.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 30, 2019, 06:45:55 pm
Nice one. Though its probably easier than NW, I always found SW knackier. I don't think I've ever seen Pisa Wall bouldering ever truly out of nick.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 31, 2019, 09:42:19 am
Interesting, Andy. I think I did NW a lot quicker. The holds on SW are so poor that maybe it's just much more conditions dependent.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 31, 2019, 09:49:48 am
C’mon Will, we’re waiting for the downgrade... 😂
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 31, 2019, 10:29:33 am
Interesting, Andy. I think I did NW a lot quicker. The holds on SW are so poor that maybe it's just much more conditions dependent.

Well, the consensus is that NW is harder (and its gets a higher grade) but I could do it much more reliably, so who knows? Lank definitely helps on NW, even on the stand.

Edit: in fact both the stands get 7B on UKC.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 03, 2020, 01:09:52 pm
Gifted with 2 x 120 x 200 cm panels completely T nutted out to go on my board. I was dreading this part, drilling all the holds and hammering in the T nuts, so wall has now jumped from about 30% complete to 60%. Might even be usable by the end of the month. Maybe.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on January 06, 2020, 03:15:02 pm
Proposed to the missus while away and she said Yes!!! Still haven't adjusted to using the term Fiancée..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 06, 2020, 03:55:16 pm
Congrats mate. Get a wedding date booked, or else you can easily lose impetus; we've been engaged for about 12 years now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 06, 2020, 05:21:25 pm
Nice one Coops! Well done mate!!

Now, don’t listen to Chris - stay engaged for as long as possible and save yerself ££££ from the huge cost of a wedding :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on January 06, 2020, 05:38:49 pm
Nice one Coops! Well done mate!!

Now, don’t listen to Chris - stay engaged for as long as possible and save yerself ££££ from the huge cost of a wedding :D
Yeah it's going to be a right pain in the arse (her family in US, mine in UK...)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 06, 2020, 07:40:46 pm
Congrats mate. Get a wedding date booked, or else you can easily lose impetus; we've been engaged for about 12 years now.


7 here.

Good one Coops!

Oh, and my second wife was equally complicated. Got married once at the C of E church in Dubai, then had to do a second one at the Romanian embassy in Abu Dhabi, then eight months later, the full Romanian Orthodox marathon in her home land.
I just tell everyone I’ve been married four times already, so not rushing it this time...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on January 07, 2020, 09:03:51 am
Yeah it's going to be a right pain in the arse (her family in US, mine in UK...)

Just go to Vegas. Wish we'd done the deed while we were there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 07, 2020, 09:08:43 am
Just go to Vegas. Wish we'd done the deed while we were there.

^^ PLAN!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 07, 2020, 04:46:39 pm
Coops -  do hope you proposed with one of these 😂😂😂 (not)

https://twitter.com/paulsng/status/1214208402492153856?s=21

My life is now complete having seen this... :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on January 07, 2020, 04:52:30 pm
Just go to Vegas. Wish we'd done the deed while we were there.

We did this and I can recommend:
https://www.peachykeenunions.com/elope-red-rock-canyon

I think it cost us $120 (including the $20 surcharge for her travelling to Red Rocks), plus a lot more in the ensuring 6-7 month road trip 'honeymoon'. I had steak in Caesar's Palace for dinner and there was a remarkable amount of goodwill that evening because Nat was in her dress.

The night before my now brother-in-law and I went out for 'just one' for which I'm still not forgiven!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on January 07, 2020, 05:01:45 pm
Coops -  do hope you proposed with one of these 😂😂😂 (not)

https://twitter.com/paulsng/status/1214208402492153856?s=21

My life is now complete having seen this... :D
That looks awful haha

Will take these considerations to the boss, cheers
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on January 23, 2020, 09:06:19 pm
Successfully defended my thesis today ;D

4 years after starting the journey, and 4 hours of defending later, hearing "Congratulations, Dr Morris" was a rather special moment!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 23, 2020, 09:08:33 pm
4 hours! That's a proper old stool viva. Congratulations Dr. Morris.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 23, 2020, 09:22:10 pm
Excellent! Well done!!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on January 23, 2020, 10:06:13 pm
cheers both! Bit of a surreal feeling after all this time :lol: having a few drinks to celebrate tomorrow
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 23, 2020, 10:07:57 pm
cheers both! Bit of a surreal feeling after all this time :lol: having a few drinks to celebrate tomorrow

I was on the other side of the table externaling a PhD earlier in the week.. 😃

Very much something that makes me reflect on my own viva experience..,
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Highbury on January 24, 2020, 07:53:15 am
cheers both! Bit of a surreal feeling after all this time :lol: having a few drinks to celebrate tomorrow

I was on the other side of the table externaling a PhD earlier in the week

Excuse me. I'm not sure even Oliver Kamm would argue for that.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on January 24, 2020, 08:36:30 am
Four hours! You must have had some peculiar opinions to defend!
Brilliant. Congratulations!!!
Now go climb a rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 24, 2020, 09:44:03 am
Four hours! You must have had some peculiar opinions to defend!

I've heard of six hours +. I once failed an MPhil during the viva (and I mean failed, no opportunity to resubmit), which was a deeply unpleasant experience. It had been submitted against the supervisors advice. I tried to refuse to examine it but the university insisted that the process had reached such a stage that the only way to finish it was to have the exam.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on January 24, 2020, 09:55:38 am
Congratulations, enjoy being finished! That sounds really rough Andy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 24, 2020, 10:20:13 am
Yes - hopefully better regulation by universities and having independent chairs in Viva’s has got rid of many of these horrors.. though there’s still no standard across UK he institutes that I can see...

It’s a funny one / If it’s too short then the candidate can feel like they’ve not had the chance to explain what they did properly.

Mind you the Australian system is entirely remote review. No viva.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on January 24, 2020, 10:28:13 am
Mind you the Australian system is entirely remote review. No viva.

I think it's a shame not to have a viva. It's an important marker I think.

I've done one in Denmark, where they are public, in front of a packed lecture theatre (the audience contained the subjects of the thesis, the owners of a company). I definitely felt the pressure to appear at least a little smart. Meanwhile, the after party was being readied outside (we'd already written a very detailed report, the defence doesn't go ahead if its not going to pass)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on January 24, 2020, 12:34:46 pm
I've done one in Denmark, where they are public, in front of a packed lecture theatre (the audience contained the subjects of the thesis, the owners of a company). I definitely felt the pressure to appear at least a little smart.

Not on the same level, but for my masters thesis the most difficult questions came from the psychologist on the panel, not the engineers! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on January 24, 2020, 12:45:34 pm

I think it's a shame not to have a viva. It's an important marker I think.

I've done one in Denmark, where they are public, in front of a packed lecture theatre (the audience contained the subjects of the thesis, the owners of a company). I definitely felt the pressure to appear at least a little smart. Meanwhile, the after party was being readied outside (we'd already written a very detailed report, the defence doesn't go ahead if its not going to pass)

I've been an examiner in Norway and when you're on stage in front of a theatre full of candidate's friends and family it keeps you honest and reduces the chance of examiners show-boating or hobby-horse riding (I've seen both as a co-examiner - embarrasing - and as candidate supervisor - which made me quite angry). 

Four hours is the upper end of acceptable in the UK but you know you've earned it.  Well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 24, 2020, 02:30:11 pm
What I love about the Dutch and many other EU nations public defences are the party afterwards.

It’s more like a wedding reception than anything else - and that’s great. It’s 4 years of your life - and the public defence lets your family and friends (who have had to endure you during that time!) appreciate and understand what you’ve done.

The 3!hours in a anonymous meeting room with a pint and a packet of crisps afterwards is a bit of an anticlimax...

The one I did this week went on for 4.5 hours!! (With 30 min lunch) and was the longest I’ve done— sometimes the conversation and ideas just keep on going (it was a good thesis)...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Highbury on January 24, 2020, 02:59:26 pm
What I love about the Dutch and many other EU nations public defences are the party afterwards...

This is all very well and I've been to a few of them but just speaking for myself, of course, I was in my twenties, still quite young, and the only person who knew that I had my viva coming up was my girlfriend and, even then, was too nervous to speak to anyone else for three days beforehand. So, heaven knows what I'd have made of a public defence and celebration afterwards.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on January 24, 2020, 03:24:14 pm
Though the Dutch ones are always in the bag before the public defence - as it’s a paper review beforehand...

I’m sure you could have a public defence where no one turned up :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on January 24, 2020, 06:09:45 pm
Congrats - what a great feeling!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on January 26, 2020, 01:39:35 pm
thanks all! Not too many corrections either, should only take a few days of work (though naturally I intend to eek it out over a number of weeks).

Four hours! You must have had some peculiar opinions to defend!
Brilliant. Congratulations!!!
Now go climb a rock.

Haha yeah, to be fair it was mostly me talking, I don't think either of the examiners expected it to take that long, since my internal had to cancel a meeting she scheduled for afterwards! But yes, I did some quite abstract and unconventional analysis to explain some interesting results that I had, so quite a bit of it was talking about that. They seemed to appreciate the novelty :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on February 14, 2020, 08:50:34 am
Since you'll be hard pressed to find a climbing related YYFY on here from my part, also given the fact that I have to undergo another knee operation ( :wall:) , I'll celebrate finishing my second level master yesterday!
 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on February 14, 2020, 08:55:46 am
Bravo Nibs! 👏 🏅 🙏
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 25, 2020, 02:36:24 pm
A sign of the times YYFY

This morning I speculatively logged on to the Tesco website - and managed to score a click and collect slot for Friday morning. The only one there - that wasn’t there the week before. Felt like I’d found Wonkas golden ticket 😂

I’m getting orders from other houses in the road now 😃
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on April 17, 2020, 02:26:00 pm
Paper finally getting published after being in the 'in-press' phase since september :)

Granted, it is not a groundbreaking one, but it's in a Springer special issue book so I am quite looking forward to getting a hold of a copy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 17, 2020, 03:03:55 pm
Your first? I remember that feeling.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on April 17, 2020, 03:59:16 pm
Your first? I remember that feeling.

Nah far from my first, but this one has taken ages to finally get to print, and has some work in it I am particularly proud of.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 04, 2020, 07:31:04 pm
I've just reached my goal of training every day during Italy's phase 1 quarantine.
61 straight days of training.
Piece. Of. Cake.
It takes a lot more than a global pandemic to even put a small dent in my training mojo.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on May 04, 2020, 07:33:38 pm
I've just reached my goal of training every day during Italy's phase 1 quarantine.
61 straight days of training.
Piece. Of. Cake.
It takes a lot more than a global pandemic to even put a small dent in my training mojo.
:lol: great effort

what did you do to avoid injury? Presume you rotated through different sessions?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 04, 2020, 10:30:05 pm
Hey thanks.
I didn't do anything different than usual, just put in some easier sessions instead of complete rest.
I don't plan much as of late.
You can find everything in Power Club from early March if you want the complete overview.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on May 26, 2020, 11:44:33 am
Had my first climb in 9-10 weeks on Sunday - what an awesome feeling! It was just going (or trying) along a little limestone traverse which I’d never been on. Guide said V2 but god knows how difficult it actually felt after such a long time off.

So nice to just be out, no worries about grades or being shit. Few others turned up (one bouldering, two on bikes having a beer) which made a nice social scene with everyone sat apart chatting shit. Lockdown could have been over it felt that normal. Great day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 27, 2020, 05:39:20 pm
Nothing beats the feeling of getting your body composition analysis results and hearing your sports physician say "You've improved again. How the fuck did you do it?"
Well, almost nothing.
Get. The. Fuck. In.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on May 27, 2020, 05:55:34 pm
Nothing beats the feeling of getting your body composition analysis results and hearing your sports physician say "You've improved again. How the fuck did you do it?"
Well, almost nothing.
Get. The. Fuck. In.
:strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 28, 2020, 08:04:06 am
 :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 30, 2020, 08:54:22 am
Got out early this morning and climbed Starship 7C at Wilton 3. I’ve been working it for ages - and it’s my first 7C since 2012/13. Wasn’t sure it would go in summer conditions - and thought it might have to wait until Autumn.

Just relaxing in the dappled shade under some trees in Wilton 4 with a nice coffee - listening to the birdsong. Life is presently good 😃
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 30, 2020, 08:59:20 am
A fine effort Tom! Enjoy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on May 30, 2020, 09:10:08 am
 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on May 30, 2020, 09:10:43 am
Nice one Tom, a good result from the lockdown training! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on May 30, 2020, 09:37:26 am
well done TT - do you feel like the big block of training you did through lockdown made the difference?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 30, 2020, 10:24:10 am
Nice one tt!  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on May 30, 2020, 10:58:05 am
well done TT - do you feel like the big block of training you did through lockdown made the difference?

Thanks all 👍 @Duma & @teestub - training: hard to say. I nearly did the problem before lockdown... though I’m certainly no worse post training. On the ‘send’ today it was pretty scrappy - but I held it together on a couple of moves - that can be a sign of having a bit in reserve. Previous attempts have been along the lines of having to get every move perfect etc...

On Starship there’s one move where learning to push/drill properly off the tip of my toe has come from board climbing.

In general my shoulders/arms feel just more capable - in terms of locking down a dead point I’ve just caught - or holding position when rocking over holding a crimp etc.. that’s from the one arm work (I also notice that on the woody - I can catch a hold and keep it when feet come flying off with arms/shoulders locked etc..)

Not yet ventured back to my lime projects - which will probably be a good benchmark of how I’m climbing... waiting for all the easing of lockdown excitement to pass before heading back to the white stuff.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on June 01, 2020, 05:52:34 pm
Down several pay grades from TTs crushing number-wise, but I left the house for the first time since the 21st of March today, not only that but I GOT TO GO FUCKING CLIMBING

Got to crag for 7.30, stayed for a couple of hours, didn't do anything hard, feel out of practice, my skin is like wet tissue paper (it turns out a beastmaker is no good for keeping the skin hard) BUT I GOT TO GO CLIMBING

All new problems for me too. Ace!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 01, 2020, 06:59:55 pm
Superb!!! Brilliant day then!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on June 02, 2020, 08:49:12 am
Two consecutive pull-ups, for the first time since I fucked up my neck last year! Left shoulder and arm are still distinctly weaker, but I am getting it back.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 15, 2020, 08:46:23 pm
So, you might have gathered that I’ve been having a wobble, after starting lockdown really quite positively, life suddenly all got a bit FUBAR.
One of the things that happen, was the death of my Grandmother (the last of my grandparents and 93 years young (so not a bad run)).

Yes, I know which thread I’m posting in.

“Dot” was not a wealthy woman and almost a decade in a home had dented what she had, but she’d put away something for each of her grandchildren (8 of us) and her three offspring too.

Early last week, a little money appeared in my account. We’re hardly on our uppers, but luxuries are not on the menu right now.

I suppose we could have fed it into the housekeeping, or something equally sensible and level headed.

Way too fucking boring.

So I got all my dive gear down from the loft. It’s been laid up since Lili died. She had been my main buddy and, frankly, I lost that mojo, if you get what I mean.
Kids were too young, etc, anyway.

Blew the lot on getting my stuff serviced, replacing the dead/missing bits and enough kit to get the kids in the water. Not easy with four of the sods.

Spent a couple of hours underwater this afternoon at Fairy Cove.

Stoked.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on June 15, 2020, 09:07:15 pm
Damn cool, nice one OMM.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on June 15, 2020, 09:34:37 pm
Excellent OMM
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 15, 2020, 10:13:43 pm
Great place to be! Hopefully be snorkelling locally soon, need another flat calm sunny spell.
I've got some good underwater wildlife footage with a go-pro on a selfie stick, you can get the camera up really close to the fish.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on June 15, 2020, 10:22:24 pm
That sounds boss! I miss the sea!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on June 16, 2020, 10:53:56 am
Brilliant Matt. Enjoy 😁
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 16, 2020, 12:05:41 pm
Another sea based YYFY. It's been foggy all weekend here, but forecast of waves was mildly promising, even though you couldn't actually see anything on webcams, so went down to Aberdeen with a mate. Was cold (especially with freshly clipped coronacut hair), drizzly and a bit onshore, but good for longboarding and easy to paddle into ideal as I've not been in the water since last autumn. Better surfers on shorter boards would have been disappointed, but I had a great session, a socially distanced conversation with a few folk I know, and got out the water very happy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: AMorris on June 16, 2020, 03:47:44 pm
Bit of a YYFY from west Wales today. I have just received a formal offer for a Research Associate role at Cardiff Uni! I was actually offered the position informally last week,  but obviously in these times, anything can happen between the informal and formal offers, so I kept it to myself with some difficulty.

I could not be more excited to take the next step in my career, especially in such a nice city. So if anyone lives round that way and fancies a spot of climbing when things get back to normal, let me know!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 16, 2020, 04:33:22 pm
Nice one, place to be boyo. Good climbing about, as above get a surfboard too, Porthcawl and Ogmore are on your doorstep and good for a bit of surfing and bouldering.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 16, 2020, 06:34:15 pm
 :clap2:
Bravo Zulu all round.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 20, 2020, 10:56:19 am
Nice one AJM.

For me, 8am swim in a choppy grey/green Baltic. Does not get much better.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on June 27, 2020, 08:08:53 pm
A bit of an odd one.
This is my youngest, Lily, on her first lead, two years ago (9yrs):

(https://i.ibb.co/5RvDCMz/963-AB25-B-03-B8-413-B-A4-A8-5-E3-E0-EF56-AB2.jpg)

Nearly lost her today.

We’d had a lazy morning, then it became clear that we weren’t going to have a day of rain, as had been forecast.

So we grabbed our MTBs and headed up to Haldon.

She’d not even made it out of the car park at Haldon. The quick release on her front wheel, must have been knocked loose. She pulled a wheely, forks came up, the wheel went it’s own way, the forks came down...

Stop.

At least the bike stopped, Lily carried on, up and over the handlebars.

 She landed square on the top of her head, no arms first. At this point, the bike decides to leap into the air and land on top of her. I arrived just in time to see a crumpled heap of Lilybiketarmac and Alex chasing a wheel down the path...

She should have been in hospital right now.

That fall should have damn near killed her.

Helmet.

That’s all I can think of.

How she wasn’t badly hurt is beyond me. It can only have been the helmet.

Strained groin, bruised, scratched, but not really hurt beyond her pride.

Apparently, a half hour in the hot tub was needed, for recovery purposes, she said:

(https://i.ibb.co/dP0GpZ1/D37-D674-E-3-A8-E-4-F9-E-802-C-453-D5160171-A.jpg)

(That’s where the last of my inheritance from Grandma Dot went, after we’d got all the dive gear we needed).

(https://i.ibb.co/xY7k6sm/13-FAE9-F0-134-D-4-CD3-A9-BF-4-C20-B7-BAC594.jpg)

So, generally much happier than a couple weeks ago.

Career (or lack of it) and Covid can do one.

We’re going off wild camping on Dartmoor as soon as possible. A few days off grid and some bush craft/ fishing will mend what ails.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on June 27, 2020, 08:14:28 pm
Scary! Glad to hear Lily is all good. I spent most of childhood (and young adulthood) hurting myself ... and still glad my parents let me have lots of mini-adventures, just as you are with yours. I owe them a lot, as yours will you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on June 29, 2020, 10:47:13 am
Kids bounce! Thank god for helmets. I'm sure you know this, but many modern bike helmets are designed to only withstand one major impact. Thank it and retire it.

Diving looks good, kids are desperate for a go, having watched every episode of Blue Planet and 7 Worlds.... while at home, as part of their home "education".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on June 29, 2020, 12:45:30 pm
On Friday I went out climbing for the first time since Dad died - down to Portland with Duncan of this parish. I was half expecting to find myself hanging on the fourth bolt having some kind of emotional meltdown, but basically it felt just like... going out climbing. It was great! We did ten easy routes, drank a lot of tea, enjoyed the seaside after months being stuck in the big city. Thanks to DC for the relaxed intro and doing all the driving.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on July 03, 2020, 11:06:59 am
Massive YYFY in that we've just completed on a house (not far from Widdop / Earl).

The process has been an utter PITA with the vendor playing games from fairly early on and I thought it was all going to go wrong last week and several instances before  :dance1:.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 03, 2020, 11:29:49 am
Ace 😁

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 03, 2020, 11:57:02 am
Great news Paul. Bet thats a huuuuuge relief.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on July 03, 2020, 12:45:28 pm
Massive YYFY in that we've just completed on a house (not far from Widdop / Earl).


Nice man, I’m guessing you’ve not quite made it into Yorkshire but at least you’re heading in the right direction 😂
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on July 03, 2020, 02:27:53 pm
Massive YYFY in that we've just completed on a house (not far from Widdop / Earl).


Nice man, I’m guessing you’ve not quite made it into Yorkshire but at least you’re heading in the right direction 😂

Gets a nice unobstructed view of Yorkshire though!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 03, 2020, 02:40:04 pm
Like Mufasa on Pride Rock.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 03, 2020, 03:06:37 pm
Like Mufasa on Pride Rock.

Whilst its drizzling....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on July 03, 2020, 05:06:39 pm
(https://i.imgflip.com/24lehx.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: iain on July 03, 2020, 05:11:51 pm
Massive YYFY in that we've just completed on a house (not far from Widdop / Earl).

Brilliant  :beer2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on July 10, 2020, 11:15:53 pm
I discovered today that I can hang one-armed from a jug again. Not an impressive feat for most of you wads but I haven’t been able to do it since my shoulders atrophied a few years back so I’m well chuffed. ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 21, 2020, 09:54:31 pm
Actually managed to impress my kids.

They were dithering over jumping Big Mac:

 https://youtu.be/lDvYuja4AFk (https://youtu.be/lDvYuja4AFk)

(Not us, random YouTube of it)

I was along to “supervise” (read: rescue diver), but bored with the dithering I jumped fully clothed.

My Merril sandals exploded and I bruised my left testicle (defo wetsuit next time).

Worth it for their faces.

Only my eldest son followed me (and it was almost instantly), but I’ll get ‘em all off it soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: colin8ll on July 21, 2020, 10:15:21 pm
Nice one :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on July 22, 2020, 11:47:05 am
but bored with the dithering I jumped fully clothed.

Many moons ago I convinced Nat to drive down to the DWS festival. She didn't climb but I convinced her (somehow) that she'd have a good time (party in a quarry  :dance1:) even if we did have to spend two nights sleeping in her Ford Ka (the first night we were woken up by the Police telling us they'd had reports of a flasher on the loose).

About halfway through the first day at Conner Cove she asked how hard it was to climb back up to which I replied it was easy, forgetting she didn't climb at all. The next thing I knew she strode through the various blokes who were dithering and just stepped off. I promptly followed and then realised that we both needed to get back up. Thankfully Ste Mac had fixed a line and someone had a GriGri and harness so I clipped her on and soloed up next to her. I can still remember somewhere near the top her asking "I'm scared, can I hold on to you"  :o

I think her first true DWS was traversing (read falling) into Diablo in Mallorca (some years later). She's not keen on DWS these days for some reason  :tumble:. I keep telling her that Freeborn Man and the Conger are routes she really ought to do as they're that good but she generally gets a bit sweary.

Massive YYFY in that we've just completed on a house (not far from Widdop / Earl).

Parts 2 and 3 of this:
We've just exchanged on the old property. I'm massively financially risk averse so this period has been a little stressful (where's Room 101 as my Solicitor can either get in there, or the sea for the unnecessary stress caused at times) and I'm now  :dance1:. The new house is turning out to be really great already. Touch wood, the dog hasn't vomited once.

I also finally sat my Chartered Professional Review on Monday. It's one of those things that its very easy to say the wrong thing (think H&S) in the interview (or not say something that needed saying as despite the huge written submission, it's judged on the day) and subsequently fluff it. I'd by lying if I said I haven't been putting it off for this reason. God knows what the result will be but I'm immensely glad it's done (even if I need to sit again in the future).  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on July 22, 2020, 12:56:18 pm
Well done, I feel your relief.
I was incredibly lucky, in March.
I was expecting to have to sit a  renewal oral for my Certificate of Competence, which is an utter bitch. Much like a Commercial Pilot, there is certification that must be renewed everyfive years (Fire Fighting, Sea Survival, Survival Craft and Rescue boat operation and Medical Care), but if you’ve not put in the required time at sea, you cannot renew without the full f’ing oral. The MCA examiners are evil and it’s one on one with no appeal.
I spent thousands and months studying and doing courses in Southampton and Glasgow to get up to speed on new developments and (massively) regulations, the actual engineering not being an issue, because the MCA review of my last seven years (since CoC lapsed) said I had to.
In the end, after finishing the last course, when I applied, they renewed it with examination!
(Probably because I’d attended the courses).
Bullet dodged.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 29, 2020, 01:50:31 pm
I've just been informed that I won a scholarship for the master I completed this past February.
Bring on that new leather jacket.
 :punk:
 :dance1:
 :smartass:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 29, 2020, 02:07:45 pm
Many congrats Lore, that's a real YYFY!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 29, 2020, 02:33:14 pm
Many congrats Lore, that's a real YYFY!
You mean the jacket, innit?
 ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 29, 2020, 03:09:08 pm
Of course!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on July 29, 2020, 03:15:22 pm
Nice wrk Lore  :dance1: :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on July 29, 2020, 07:02:02 pm
Cheers!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on July 29, 2020, 07:27:40 pm
Great news Lore.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on August 03, 2020, 10:19:44 am
I also finally sat my Chartered Professional Review on Monday. It's one of those things that its very easy to say the wrong thing (think H&S) in the interview (or not say something that needed saying as despite the huge written submission, it's judged on the day) and subsequently fluff it. I'd by lying if I said I haven't been putting it off for this reason. God knows what the result will be but I'm immensely glad it's done (even if I need to sit again in the future).  :dance1:

Well, what usually takes 3-6 months for an answer only took 2 weeks and I managed to pass. I had to get Nat to read the email ( :sick: ) as it's the usual:

"Dear Sir, please see the attached letter..."

Anyhow: :dance1:

Sorry about monopolising this thread of late.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 03, 2020, 10:25:15 am
Excellent Paul!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on August 03, 2020, 10:28:41 am
I am sat in my lounge with my kids...


... for the first time in almost 5 months.

(I’m glossing over the fact that they are both engrossed in screens and largely ignoring me.... :lol: :lol:)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 03, 2020, 11:54:53 am
Well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on August 05, 2020, 09:10:34 am
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Motown on August 05, 2020, 10:03:42 am
Actually managed to impress my kids.

They were dithering over jumping Big Mac:

 https://youtu.be/lDvYuja4AFk (https://youtu.be/lDvYuja4AFk)

(Not us, random YouTube of it)

I was along to “supervise” (read: rescue diver), but bored with the dithering I jumped fully clothed.

My Merril sandals exploded and I bruised my left testicle (defo wetsuit next time).

Worth it for their faces.

Only my eldest son followed me (and it was almost instantly), but I’ll get ‘em all off it soon.

Granddaddy Mac next - running down approach path for maximum clearance  :no: :no:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 05, 2020, 02:55:44 pm
Actually managed to impress my kids.

They were dithering over jumping Big Mac:

 https://youtu.be/lDvYuja4AFk (https://youtu.be/lDvYuja4AFk)

(Not us, random YouTube of it)

I was along to “supervise” (read: rescue diver), but bored with the dithering I jumped fully clothed.

My Merril sandals exploded and I bruised my left testicle (defo wetsuit next time).

Worth it for their faces.

Only my eldest son followed me (and it was almost instantly), but I’ll get ‘em all off it soon.

Granddaddy Mac next - running down approach path for maximum clearance  :no: :no:

I looked at it.

Apparently, a certain amount of wisdom creeps into your subconscious with age, despite your best efforts.


That’s the excuse I’m sticking with, anyway...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: steveri on August 21, 2020, 10:12:46 am
Small boast (and warm-up territory to some folk) managed my first 7A last night in maybe 20 years - Ramp Eliminate, Helsby. Crimpy, balancy slopers on a leaning wall. We'll not mention the beached whale finish. No downgrades please.

Pretty much stopped climbing when my youngest was born (now 18) and did more cycling and running. Bumbling around again for 5 or 6 years, really enjoy a long half day on obscure r-man or Peak moorland, lots of mileage on 4s and 5s, with low 6s in a few goes. Guess I'm going to have to start trying harder ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 21, 2020, 12:30:07 pm
Well done Steve. The non eliminate is tricky enough!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on August 21, 2020, 03:43:47 pm
Finally FINALLY back in the Peak District and getting to climb again, after getting stuck in London during lockdown and essentially spending four months shut in a very small building on my own.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 21, 2020, 03:49:49 pm
Very well done Steve. That's one of mine, so no downgrades from me. It is a complete eliminate, but the holds are so nice and the sequence so obvious that it's actually a really great, natural feeling problem.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: steveri on August 21, 2020, 05:03:02 pm
Thanks Tom and Andy, thought you guys might have done it. It does climb really well, nice find, and don't imagine gets climbed enough for consensus grades. No giveaways though on that buttress. Still think the top out's a stinker.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 21, 2020, 05:27:18 pm
Here it is, in all its glory.

Edit: nope, didn't work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on August 21, 2020, 11:01:29 pm
Thanks Tom and Andy, thought you guys might have done it. It does climb really well, nice find, and don't imagine gets climbed enough for consensus grades. No giveaways though on that buttress. Still think the top out's a stinker.

I got my wires crossed and was thinking of the wrong problem. Looked it up now and yes done it. As Andy said it’s not really that eliminate - takes the logical line. Nice moves and a cool wee buttress.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 24, 2020, 08:27:15 am
Finally FINALLY back in the Peak District and getting to climb again, after getting stuck in London during lockdown and essentially spending four months shut in a very small building on my own.

Nice, must feel great.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 03, 2020, 09:46:50 am
Eldest turned 3 in May and has just become eligible for government subsidised childcare.
I've just paid this month's nursery bill.

£85

 :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tommytwotone on September 03, 2020, 10:14:24 am
Nice - same boat for us - youngest's allowance kicks in as of next week.

Only NNFN is that he (and his sister) are going to be in childcare more now, as grandparents can't do the wraparound care they used to, so the saving isn't a great as I'd hoped!

That said, before COVID, even with help from family, I was paying more than my mortgage in childcare per month in nursery / pre/post school places.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2020, 10:18:07 am
Finally did link up project on Tuesday night.

I've played with it on and off for a few years, using duff beta for the second crux for a while, and nearly giving up on the first crux due to hold breakage. 2 eliminates back to back, but climbs really well.

Conditions were foul, condensing everywhere, but wind picked up and went good for a bit. Feel it might be 7A, but concede it may be easier for the short or the strong, hard to gain perspective when so familiar with it. Anyone who wants to nip in for a repeat (and downgrade), I can point you at location (andy e, looking in your direction).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2020, 10:20:15 am
I was paying more than my mortgage in childcare per month in nursery / pre/post school places.

Ours were both in fulltime. Eyewateringly expensive, could have cleared most of our mortgage.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 03, 2020, 11:21:29 am
Nice - same boat for us - youngest's allowance kicks in as of next week.

Only NNFN is that he (and his sister) are going to be in childcare more now, as grandparents can't do the wraparound care they used to, so the saving isn't a great as I'd hoped!

That said, before COVID, even with help from family, I was paying more than my mortgage in childcare per month in nursery / pre/post school places.

Standard. Pre-COVID she was in nursery for 3 days a week and the bill was always quite a bit higher than the mortgage. Post-COVID it was two days which was some relief. £85 a month feels like heaven. Until the youngest starts in a few months time  :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on September 03, 2020, 11:31:16 am
In that few months you can save up for a nice xmas prezzy for me Will YYFY  :goodidea:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2020, 02:20:46 pm
Finally did link up project on Tuesday night.

vid if anyone is interested.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEq-h2ehVGPrcfdo0mJbRlbre7wDY5m5iGkpoQ0/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 03, 2020, 02:35:30 pm
Private account yo.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2020, 03:40:47 pm
Changed
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 03, 2020, 03:42:59 pm
Nice bit of rock, waaay prettier than the Ali Turd cave ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 03, 2020, 03:49:04 pm
It's lovely, uncharacteristic of the coast here, with small but not razor sharp holds. Project line going up from 2nd crimp slightly left remains, need steel fingers for last moves and a lot of pads and spotters.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on September 03, 2020, 05:22:18 pm
Looks like a good problem in a great location.
Well done getting it done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on September 14, 2020, 05:33:26 pm
 :dance1:

https://youtu.be/fePdEDZKD94
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Rob F on September 14, 2020, 09:04:17 pm
Effort!!!

Right arm 3 white lights
Left arm 2 white lights and a red

Both good hangs / no need for the bring out your dabs thread...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on September 14, 2020, 09:27:44 pm
Thanks Rob but I think you are being generous there on the left arm hang.

This time last year when I’d lost weight I was pleased to comfortably hang the top outermost slots. I was doing some campus boarding today and thought I’d check out whether I could hang the top slots and it felt piss. Did a bit more on the campus board and wondered how I’d feel on the bottom middle edge and went back upstairs and did it!

Did it again for the camera to prove to myself I wasn’t dreaming and because I regret not having filmed myself doing one armers when for a brief period I could do them. 

When I first read about Moffat doing one arm hangs on edges  BITD it seemed like an impossible feat. For the last 15 or so years I’ve dreamt of doing a one arm hang on a first joint edge. Now I’ve done it! It’s amazing to get a benchmark pure strength PB at 56.

Celebrating with a glass or three of red wine. Don’t judge me
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Rob F on September 14, 2020, 09:36:56 pm
Well, once you've had your third glass you can tell us all what grade it is :-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on September 14, 2020, 09:38:24 pm
Well, once you've had your third glass you can tell us all what grade it is :-)

7Cish natch ;-)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on September 14, 2020, 09:39:50 pm
Inspiring, good effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 15, 2020, 11:11:10 am
Great effort Simon! Is your right arm generally stronger on those hangs/ one arm max hangs? For me its my left, and I'm right handed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 15, 2020, 11:26:49 am
my right is stronger, and I'm left handed..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 15, 2020, 11:33:38 am
I'm with Jim on this one
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on September 15, 2020, 12:28:34 pm
Great effort Simon! Is your right arm generally stronger on those hangs/ one arm max hangs? For me its my left, and I'm right handed.

Thanks Jim. Yes always been much stronger on my right hanging and pulling. I’m right handed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on September 16, 2020, 12:25:36 pm
Handed in my thesis last week, ticked a lime 7B id failed on a year or so ago after putting up some new easy boulders up, and got a job offer the same day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gme on September 16, 2020, 02:10:30 pm
Thanks Rob but I think you are being generous there on the left arm hang.

This time last year when I’d lost weight I was pleased to comfortably hang the top outermost slots. I was doing some campus boarding today and thought I’d check out whether I could hang the top slots and it felt piss. Did a bit more on the campus board and wondered how I’d feel on the bottom middle edge and went back upstairs and did it!

Did it again for the camera to prove to myself I wasn’t dreaming and because I regret not having filmed myself doing one armers when for a brief period I could do them. 

When I first read about Moffat doing one arm hangs on edges  BITD it seemed like an impossible feat. For the last 15 or so years I’ve dreamt of doing a one arm hang on a first joint edge. Now I’ve done it! It’s amazing to get a benchmark pure strength PB at 56.

Celebrating with a glass or three of red wine. Don’t judge me

Good effort on this, whilst i am not sure it translates to climbing its a good feat of strength. It is my years target to hang that edge for 5 secs. I started trying in lockdown with 12.5kg assistance and now down to 4kg on RH 6 on LH so feels possible.

Seems like every kid and his dog can do it these days, though 99% of them dont weigh the 83kg i do. I am avoiding the obvious short cut of loosing 4kg as its cheating.


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on September 16, 2020, 02:12:08 pm
Handed in my thesis last week, ticked a lime 7B id failed on a year or so ago after putting up some new easy boulders up, and got a job offer the same day.

Thats lots of good news - ace. Well done on all accounts!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 16, 2020, 02:12:23 pm
Handed in my thesis last week, ticked a lime 7B id failed on a year or so ago after putting up some new easy boulders up, and got a job offer the same day.

Effort beast. What's the job?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on September 16, 2020, 02:34:08 pm
Cheers! All been slowly working at for a while and came into fruition at the same time. I bought a swiss roll from pately bridge petrol station on the way home to celebrate.
Sent you a pm Andy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on September 16, 2020, 02:55:05 pm
Handed in my thesis last week, ticked a lime 7B id failed on a year or so ago after putting up some new easy boulders up, and got a job offer the same day.

That’s a great treble and definitely deserves a Swiss roll in Pateley.

Well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on September 16, 2020, 02:58:08 pm
Thanks Rob but I think you are being generous there on the left arm hang.

This time last year when I’d lost weight I was pleased to comfortably hang the top outermost slots. I was doing some campus boarding today and thought I’d check out whether I could hang the top slots and it felt piss. Did a bit more on the campus board and wondered how I’d feel on the bottom middle edge and went back upstairs and did it!

Did it again for the camera to prove to myself I wasn’t dreaming and because I regret not having filmed myself doing one armers when for a brief period I could do them. 

When I first read about Moffat doing one arm hangs on edges  BITD it seemed like an impossible feat. For the last 15 or so years I’ve dreamt of doing a one arm hang on a first joint edge. Now I’ve done it! It’s amazing to get a benchmark pure strength PB at 56.

Celebrating with a glass or three of red wine. Don’t judge me

Well done Simon. Inspiring stuff and a great thing to aim for.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 16, 2020, 02:58:52 pm
Sent you a pm Andy

Either you're ghosting me or PMs are borked again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on September 16, 2020, 03:32:39 pm
Take 2. Sent you a linkedin message instead.  Could be the PMs have taken a detour or could be user error.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on September 16, 2020, 05:16:22 pm
Good effort on this, whilst i am not sure it translates to climbing its a good feat of strength.

Thanks Gav. I think it still translates for me but less so than before as finger strength doesn’t seem to be so obviously limiting factor as it used to be. 

Quote
It is my years target to hang that edge for 5 secs. I started trying in lockdown with 12.5kg assistance and now down to 4kg on RH 6 on LH so feels possible.

Seems like every kid and his dog can do it these days, though 99% of them dont weigh the 83kg i do. I am avoiding the obvious short cut of loosing 4kg as its cheating.

Good luck but losing excess baggage also worth pursuing so I hope you are not using cheating as an excuse not to trim down!
To counteract you could alter your aim to hanging 83kg by adding weight holding a dumbbell that represents the bodyweight lost.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gme on September 16, 2020, 09:17:28 pm
Losing weight is the last thing I will do and only if I genuinely thought I was training as hard and as well as I can, and was close to something that was really hard and just needed that last piece of the jigsaw.
Don’t think I could say I have ever been in that position in my life.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 18, 2020, 09:28:40 pm
It has been almost a year of on again, off again negotiations, business case submissions, civil service cajoling and some pretty deep lows.

But, this evening, I signed my contract. I shall be rejoining HM Royal Navy as a Civilian Engineering Officer on the 28th of this month.

Finally a regular income.

Full job share, so 1:1 on a 30 day rotation, as well; so essentially I only work for six months every year.  Which will be odd for the kids, as I’ve only worked part time for the last decade. Off to do BSSC and BOEDICCA  in October, almost exactly 30 years after the last time the bastards tried to drown me...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on September 20, 2020, 08:25:52 pm
Congrats OMM, hope it works out well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 20, 2020, 08:54:32 pm
Off to do BSSC.... in October

somehow I don't think this is Bishops Stortford Swimming Club
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 20, 2020, 09:39:40 pm
Off to do BSSC.... in October

somehow I don't think this is Bishops Stortford Swimming Club

Nah. “Basic” sea survival course (the RN one isn’t exactly “basic”) and the other one (isn’t actually called that anymore, I don’t think) is the Damage control (Command and Control) in the simulators. They’re large, multi deck, ship mock-ups on hydraulic rams, that they flood and throw around, with us inside them, and of course the Fire Fighting units. They try quite hard to kill you, really.
Have to do the civilian versions every five years (I usually go to Warsash) but those are single day affairs, the RN have you do a 2 and a bit weeks of it every two years.
I’m actually planning on sending my kids to do the civi 4 day firefighting and sea survival courses, when they turn 16, because, man, what a rush! F#@k PGL or adventure centre holidays. Get your arse in a BA set and into a burning, three deck, metal box; battling and wrestling a high pressure hose.
That shit is Lit!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on September 27, 2020, 06:37:35 pm
I managed to not fall off a route at the Tor  :o
Oh, and my hardest tick for 2 years or so. Not hard in the grand scheme of things, but good to do something testing for a change.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on September 27, 2020, 06:55:58 pm
I managed to not fall off a route at the Tor  :o
Oh, and my hardest tick for 2 years or so. Not hard in the grand scheme of things, but good to do something testing for a change.

Well done, Andy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on September 28, 2020, 10:53:02 am
I managed to not fall off a route at the Tor  :o
Oh, and my hardest tick for 2 years or so. Not hard in the grand scheme of things, but good to do something testing for a change.

Well done Andy.  You must have been happy with the day yesterday considering the Manchester City result!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on September 28, 2020, 04:41:13 pm
I managed to not fall off a route at the Tor  :o
Oh, and my hardest tick for 2 years or so. Not hard in the grand scheme of things, but good to do something testing for a change.

Well done Andy.  You must have been happy with the day yesterday considering the Manchester City result!
It did round the day off nicely  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 28, 2020, 09:51:13 pm
And tonight's result I think....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on September 29, 2020, 08:48:35 am
Pfft, I manage not to fall off a route at the Tor every single day, simply by not going on them in the first place.

Good effort, which one?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on September 29, 2020, 10:57:37 am
Pfft, I manage not to fall off a route at the Tor every single day, simply by not going on them in the first place.

Good effort, which one?

The one you get after a Turkey Phal
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on October 09, 2020, 09:42:31 am
Got a good survey on a house last Friday and then the Mortgage offer through today. If the solicitor checks go through quickly then we might be Skipton Resident’s this time next month!

Psyched to move back closer to friends after a very nice, but enforced, stint in Cumbria due to Covid.

Bit of stability in one aspect of life would be nice again!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on October 09, 2020, 09:42:57 am
Got a good survey on a house last Friday and then the Mortgage offer through today. If the solicitor checks go through quickly then we might be Skipton residents this time next month!

Psyched to move back closer to friends after a very nice, but enforced, stint in Cumbria due to Covid.

Bit of stability in one aspect of life would be nice again!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on October 09, 2020, 12:33:12 pm
This time last year I started a masters degree at UCL. In the first term my mum's dementia got much worse, my younger brother got cancer and my partner's uncle died in a horrible accident. (Brother is now in remission.) In the second term I was ill for a month with what I strongly suspect was covid, my partner got covid and then her dad - with whom I was also very close - died from covid after only three days after being admitted to hospital.

Yesterday I got my exam results back, didn't fail anything and in fact got 3 distinctions and four merits, which I am pleased with given that on some days right after dad died I could barely wash myself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 09, 2020, 12:34:45 pm
Excellent news James and Sean!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy_e on October 09, 2020, 12:43:13 pm
Fucking hell Sean, you've been through the ringer there. Good effort smashing your Masters!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 09, 2020, 01:40:41 pm
That is crazily impressive Sean, good effort!

I should be working up in Skipton in a few months if you want to get out after work (once we are allowed into the office) James.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on October 09, 2020, 06:54:45 pm
Bloody hell Sean. Well done. Pint soon?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on October 09, 2020, 10:12:21 pm
Bloody hell Sean. Well done. Pint soon?

Thanks and yes, definitely! I’ll message you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on October 10, 2020, 10:33:57 am
I can only echo, bloody hell Sean! Wish I could join you for the pint.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 10, 2020, 12:59:00 pm
Sorry that would be more than 2 households  :spank:

Well done Sean and nice one James.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on October 10, 2020, 01:32:19 pm
That is crazily impressive Sean, good effort!

I should be working up in Skipton in a few months if you want to get out after work (once we are allowed into the office) James.

That would be great. I‘ve done a bit around there but not loads. Hopefully my wrist is back up to strength before too long - currently not really climbing but should be starting up a bit more soon, all being well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on October 10, 2020, 03:54:38 pm
That is crazily impressive Sean, good effort!

I should be working up in Skipton in a few months if you want to get out after work (once we are allowed into the office) James.

That would be great. I‘ve done a bit around there but not loads. Hopefully my wrist is back up to strength before too long - currently not really climbing but should be starting up a bit more soon, all being well.
without knowing the details of your situation, if it’s an injury that’s been keeping you out for some time, I’d strongly recommend starting to load it. I started with one arm pulls on a pull-up bar (feet on ground) before progressing to pulling on a fingerboard while doing all other rehab. I had about five months off last year which I now see as being potentially unnecessary. Just slowly get it used to load again!
Ignore me if this is completely inappropriate to your situation. Just don’t want you to miss out on months of action due to a generic physio not understanding the best path back (in my case)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on October 10, 2020, 06:09:13 pm
That is crazily impressive Sean, good effort!

I should be working up in Skipton in a few months if you want to get out after work (once we are allowed into the office) James.

That would be great. I‘ve done a bit around there but not loads. Hopefully my wrist is back up to strength before too long - currently not really climbing but should be starting up a bit more soon, all being well.
without knowing the details of your situation, if it’s an injury that’s been keeping you out for some time, I’d strongly recommend starting to load it. I started with one arm pulls on a pull-up bar (feet on ground) before progressing to pulling on a fingerboard while doing all other rehab. I had about five months off last year which I now see as being potentially unnecessary. Just slowly get it used to load again!
Ignore me if this is completely inappropriate to your situation. Just don’t want you to miss out on months of action due to a generic physio not understanding the best path back (in my case)

Yeah I’m hoping to start loading it again soon. I’ve been doing some dead hangs (but just off a bar for now) but did climb on it before I re-injured it.

I’d been doing some physio strengthening (physio seems pretty keen for me to keep climbing if I can, but taking it easy). A few weeks ago it went again (whilst climbing) though and I went back to not being able to pick up a cup of tea for a few weeks. I’m back to doing my exercises now after a few weeks of it being too painful to do them.

Hanging seems fine though - it’s more painful when rotating it for side pulls and undercuts. Will start with a beastmaker in the house when we get it and start to load it more then hopefully.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on October 10, 2020, 11:29:03 pm
Best of luck mate
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dolly on October 22, 2020, 08:05:37 pm
Today I did The Rib at Burbage South at least 15 years since first trying it I think.
I’m still excited about it now aged 56 :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on October 22, 2020, 08:09:03 pm
Today I did The Rib at Burbage South at least 15 years since first trying it I think.
I’m still excited about it now aged 56 :)

Nice one Dolly. You styled it. 👍👍
(https://i.imgur.com/3G974Cg.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on November 03, 2020, 04:12:43 pm
After a decade of bleating that it's morpho or I need stronger fingers, more core or better nick, but mostly that it was morpho, today I finally managed Kidneystone.
Turns out all I needed to do was stop trying it via a crap sequence  :slap:

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on November 03, 2020, 04:16:04 pm
After a decade of bleating that it's morpho or I need stronger fingers, more core or better nick, but mostly that it was morpho, today I finally managed Kidneystone.
Turns out all I needed to do was stop trying it via a crap sequence  :slap:

Nice one! If you got a video I would be interested in seeing it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on November 03, 2020, 04:36:48 pm
No video but I can explain:
Start RH in the pocket, LH on the edge stretched out left.
Left toe on the foothold under the roof.
Right foot on nothing, taller folk can toe hook at this point.

Pull on and put the toe hook on then slap RH to the lip sloper then the one under the stepped overlap then into side of the big flake, cut loose and stab RF to kill swing.

Then basically match and up into finish, however you do that.
Dolly and I used the same method for the bottom but neither of us could do the other's sequence for the moves above.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on November 03, 2020, 04:38:12 pm
Nice one Nai. All dry today then?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on November 03, 2020, 05:03:39 pm
Stuff in the woods had wet tops, Perfect Day lower wall was wet but Mark's Roof mosty dry and Kidneystone somehow refused to get wet. Surprising, we dismissed it on the way in but when the wind turned the rain tracked further south and we got lucky. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on November 06, 2020, 01:05:26 pm
........
Left toe on the foothold under the roof.
......

What's the toe like under the roof? I can't remember there being much/anything for the left toe?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on November 06, 2020, 03:36:20 pm
It's ok and fairly obvious I thought, just right of the block.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: galpinos on November 06, 2020, 08:08:08 pm
It's ok and fairly obvious I thought, just right of the block.

Cheers, must have totally missed it. I was finding it hard off just the toehook and the left hand.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on November 10, 2020, 10:41:02 am
Getting closer on the house front, but had an unexpected contract extension at work yesterday. Another 4 months of work rather then unemployment from next month!

Also, we pick our little working cocker up on Thursday - I’ve wanted one for years and now the house is close to completion it seems as good a time as any!

Makes up for all the sleep deprivation of late and should distract me from the News addition I can’t seem to shift!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: HarryBD on November 10, 2020, 02:19:02 pm
Exciting stuff James nice one. My family had a cocker when I was growing up - definitely got a soft spot for them.

Just exchanged on our first home today for completion tomorrow - just in time for end of tenancy/eviction on Thursday. Been a big ball of stress that seems to have released with that deadline.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on November 10, 2020, 02:29:16 pm
Exciting stuff James nice one. My family had a cocker when I was growing up - definitely got a soft spot for them.

Just exchanged on our first home today for completion tomorrow - just in time for end of tenancy/eviction on Thursday. Been a big ball of stress that seems to have released with that deadline.

Yeah - my family had a springer which meant I've always had a soft-spot for Spaniels too. Would have liked a rescue like my old dog, but the timings haven't worked out as we need one old enough, and trained enough, to taken on a trip next year. Can't wait to get him trained up and secretly very excited about the prospect of a pup!

Nice one on the house! That's cutting it fine!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on November 20, 2020, 12:41:31 am
YYFY, just sent my first US V9 and first of the grade since 2018! Psyched.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on November 20, 2020, 06:03:39 am
 :bow:

Fantastic. Well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 20, 2020, 07:29:05 am
Nice one Coops! Did I see that pop up on ukc logbooks? 👏👏
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on November 20, 2020, 12:57:49 pm
Nice one Coops! Did I see that pop up on ukc logbooks? 👏👏
Maybe, the 8 I did last weekend is incorrectly graded V9 on UKC. This one is correct there though :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on November 20, 2020, 12:59:42 pm
Beast!  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on November 21, 2020, 01:17:11 pm
Last night was the first night since the 13th December 2019, when our second child was born, that he was put into his cot in the evening (7pm) and didn't require any intervention until he awoke at 5am this morning.
I heard him wake a couple of times but he sorted himself out and went back to sleep.
Fingers crossed he continues to practice this new skill!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Aussiegav on November 21, 2020, 04:43:58 pm
Last night was the first night since the 13th December 2019, when our second child was born, that he was put into his cot in the evening (7pm) and didn't require any intervention until he awoke at 5am this morning.
The epitome of this thread. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on November 21, 2020, 07:55:56 pm
The story of UKB is told in the changing nature of the successes documented in this thread.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on November 21, 2020, 08:37:43 pm
Could split the thread and create a YYFY parenting one?  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on November 21, 2020, 08:49:08 pm
Could split the thread and create a YYFY parenting one?  :lol:

Life Wins
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 21, 2020, 11:07:05 pm
Last night was the first night since the 13th December 2019, when our second child was born, that he was put into his cot in the evening (7pm) and didn't require any intervention until he awoke at 5am this morning.
I heard him wake a couple of times but he sorted himself out and went back to sleep.
Fingers crossed he continues to practice this new skill!

Self soothing, a blessing when it happens.

In other news, I'm back on the chaingang, started new job last Friday. This could be seen as a NNFN.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on November 22, 2020, 03:51:21 pm
That's got to be good news on the job front Chris.The pressure's off at least.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 22, 2020, 04:09:13 pm
Nice one Mr Chris. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on November 22, 2020, 04:27:15 pm
Good stuff Chris
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 22, 2020, 08:06:43 pm
Nice one Chris.

I hope it's something you want to do
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 22, 2020, 10:03:31 pm
Thanks guys. Happy with the job, what I actually want to do is incompatible with paying the mortgage though ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 22, 2020, 10:43:00 pm
Thanks guys. Happy with the job, what I actually want to do is incompatible with paying the mortgage though ;)

Does it have to be?  Could you drop a day a week and try to get started in what you really want to do? (landscapes?)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 23, 2020, 09:08:38 pm
Unfortunately it's not paying as well as previous jobs, would need an extra day a week to get back to where I was, not one less. The way of the industry right now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on November 23, 2020, 09:20:31 pm
No video but I can explain:
Start RH in the pocket, LH on the edge stretched out left.
Left toe on the foothold under the roof.
Right foot on nothing, taller folk can toe hook at this point.

Pull on and put the toe hook on then slap RH to the lip sloper then the one under the stepped overlap then into side of the big flake, cut loose and stab RF to kill swing.

Then basically match and up into finish, however you do that.
Dolly and I used the same method for the bottom but neither of us could do the other's sequence for the moves above.

Had a go at this today. Could see how it worked but never managed to stick the slap to the sloper. For anyone else it might be useful for, the beta that ended up working for me is: hands in the same position Nai describes, right heel in the scoop next to right hand and left foot on nothing. Pull on, pull with the heel and move right hand to flake via sloper if required. Match and cut. Left foot never goes on anything throughout. Felt like a different problem today; mint conditions.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 27, 2020, 03:45:33 pm
Hit deadlift PB again last evening.
Out of the blue, pretty chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on November 27, 2020, 03:52:26 pm
Hit deadlift PB again last evening.
Out of the blue, pretty chuffed.

💪🏻💪🏻👏👏
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 27, 2020, 07:37:32 pm
Hit deadlift PB again last evening.
Out of the blue, pretty chuffed.

what % BW ?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on November 27, 2020, 07:42:49 pm
Hit deadlift PB again last evening.
Out of the blue, pretty chuffed.

 :clap2: :clap2:  :strongbench: :strongbench: :clap2: :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on November 27, 2020, 10:46:39 pm
what % BW ?
Roughly 2,1xBW.
Hadn't gone heavy in a few years, but I was feeling mentally fresh and gave it a go before my finishers. To be honest it went up pretty well, no grind whatsoever, so I'm sure I have some margin, but I won't be trying again anytime soon.
Still very happy, really satisfying session. And I've had a few of them as of late.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on November 28, 2020, 10:54:30 am

very happy, really satisfying

 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 02, 2020, 01:56:54 pm
Riding high on the perfect wave of my DL PB, Spotify just made me as proud as ever, telling me that in 2020 I am in the top 0,05% worlwide for PJ Harvey listenings.
Now tell me if this isn't the biggest YYFY ever.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 02, 2020, 04:56:12 pm
*worldwide
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 02, 2020, 05:00:56 pm
Yes but were you listening to her during the 2.1xBW deadlift??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 02, 2020, 06:49:33 pm
  :lol:
Good call. To be honest I was listening to The Count of Montecristo on Audible...
 :ang:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 02, 2020, 09:33:16 pm
I bet the bar was at least 50 inches long though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JackAus on December 03, 2020, 04:55:15 am
Riding high on the perfect wave of my DL PB, Spotify just made me as proud as ever, telling me that in 2020 I am in the top 0,05% worlwide for PJ Harvey listenings.
Now tell me if this isn't the biggest YYFY ever.
I was in the top 1% for Tool.  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on December 03, 2020, 01:08:11 pm
 :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on December 03, 2020, 02:12:12 pm
Riding high on the perfect wave of my DL PB, Spotify just made me as proud as ever, telling me that in 2020 I am in the top 0,05% worlwide for PJ Harvey listenings.
Now tell me if this isn't the biggest YYFY ever.

Sainsbury's informed my wife and me that we were the number two buyers of diet bitter lemon at their Ashton-under-Lyne supermarket. Got to up those numbers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 03, 2020, 03:52:56 pm
Riding high on the perfect wave of my DL PB, Spotify just made me as proud as ever, telling me that in 2020 I am in the top 0,05% worlwide for PJ Harvey listenings.
Now tell me if this isn't the biggest YYFY ever.

Sainsbury's informed my wife and me that we were the number two buyers of diet bitter lemon at their Ashton-under-Lyne supermarket. Got to up those numbers.

1. Why? (Why did they tell you!)
2. WHO IS NUMBER 1???
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on December 03, 2020, 06:41:43 pm
Riding high on the perfect wave of my DL PB, Spotify just made me as proud as ever, telling me that in 2020 I am in the top 0,05% worlwide for PJ Harvey listenings.
Now tell me if this isn't the biggest YYFY ever.

Sainsbury's informed my wife and me that we were the number two buyers of diet bitter lemon at their Ashton-under-Lyne supermarket. Got to up those numbers.

1. Why? (Why did they tell you!)
2. WHO IS NUMBER 1???

An excellent question Tomtom! Perhaps to start some sort of purchasing war in the quest for the top spot. Margins must be really tight if they are trying to up sales of 60p low calorie carbonated beverages.

But I do seriously worry about number one. My wife and I do get through an unhealthy amount of bitter lemon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on December 03, 2020, 07:12:10 pm
These are the sort of things that make it really hard to get worked up about the supposed issues with big data analytics  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 06, 2020, 11:40:43 pm
Riding high on the perfect wave of my DL PB, Spotify just made me as proud as ever, telling me that in 2020 I am in the top 0,05% worlwide for PJ Harvey listenings.
Now tell me if this isn't the biggest YYFY ever.

Sainsbury's informed my wife and me that we were the number two buyers of diet bitter lemon at their Ashton-under-Lyne supermarket. Got to up those numbers.

1. Why? (Why did they tell you!)
2. WHO IS NUMBER 1???

Under GDPR you cannot release this info. Next thing you know you will be stalking them and clearing the shelf just as they enter the supermarket.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: peewee on December 07, 2020, 02:18:41 pm
Riding high on the perfect wave of my DL PB, Spotify just made me as proud as ever, telling me that in 2020 I am in the top 0,05% worlwide for PJ Harvey listenings.
Now tell me if this isn't the biggest YYFY ever.

Sainsbury's informed my wife and me that we were the number two buyers of diet bitter lemon at their Ashton-under-Lyne supermarket. Got to up those numbers.

Me and the GF were the 3rd highest buyer of chickpeas in the Colne store, we have upped them numbers this year but the restrictions on purchases earlier in lockdown may have knocked us down the table.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on December 07, 2020, 03:32:56 pm
Riding high on the perfect wave of my DL PB, Spotify just made me as proud as ever, telling me that in 2020 I am in the top 0,05% worlwide for PJ Harvey listenings.
Now tell me if this isn't the biggest YYFY ever.

Sainsbury's informed my wife and me that we were the number two buyers of diet bitter lemon at their Ashton-under-Lyne supermarket. Got to up those numbers.

Me and the GF were the 3rd highest buyer of chickpeas in the Colne store, we have upped them numbers this year but the restrictions on purchases earlier in lockdown may have knocked us down the table.

I don't know about you. But finding out our ranking on the league table gave me a genuine moment of existential crisis. Do we buy too much? What does this say about us? Are we part the bourgeoisie? But another sip of delicious diet bitter lemon and it sooned passed.

What does 3rd highest purchasers of chickpeas in Colne say about you?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 07, 2020, 03:51:36 pm
What does 3rd highest purchasers of chickpeas in Colne say about you?

I might swing by Sainsburys in Colne and pick up a can. See if I become 4th :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on December 07, 2020, 07:43:47 pm

I don't know about you. But finding out our ranking on the league table gave me a genuine moment of existential crisis. Do we buy too much? What does this say about us? Are we part the bourgeoisie? But another sip of delicious diet bitter lemon and it sooned passed.

Do they give you a total purchase value, or an annual literage of bitter lemon?

We need some raw data not just league tables, for example peewee’s chick pea habit is bronze place in Colne but I bet he wouldn’t make it into the top 500 at Hebden Bridge Co-Op 😄
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 07, 2020, 08:35:06 pm
Just told my other half about this and she said that her mate was once informed he was the number one buyer of coleslaw at the Tadcaster Sainsbury’s.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: JamieG on December 07, 2020, 09:50:57 pm
Do they give you a total purchase value, or an annual literage of bitter lemon?

Unfortunately not. Although the true scale (and cost) of the habit, might have tipped me over the edge.

I once calculated for my father in law how much he must have spent in Costa coffee to accrue his impressive loyalty card point tally (it was close to a grand in the year) and at first he was incredulous and then you could see it dawning on him slowly. It was quite painful to watch.

Just told my other half about this and she said that her mate was once informed he was the number one buyer of coleslaw at the Tadcaster Sainsbury’s.

Finally someone that is top of their table! Although that must be a lot of coleslaw, its hardly a niche product.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sdm on December 08, 2020, 07:43:32 am
I once calculated for my father in law how much he must have spent in Costa coffee to accrue his impressive loyalty card point tally (it was close to a grand in the year) and at first he was incredulous and then you could see it dawning on him slowly. It was quite painful to watch.
I'll never understand how people can go to Costa every day. If you're going to spend £1,000 per year, at least spend it somewhere that serves decent coffee!

Or buy a decent grinder, an espresso machine and good coffee. It's quicker, tastes much better, and you'll still come out ahead within a year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on December 08, 2020, 07:59:19 am
We need some raw data not just league tables, for example peewee’s chick pea habit is bronze place in Colne but I bet he wouldn’t make it into the top 500 at Hebden Bridge Co-Op 😄

Haha, was just about to make exactly the same joke, when I quickly checked the page before.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 08, 2020, 08:11:05 am
I once calculated for my father in law how much he must have spent in Costa coffee to accrue his impressive loyalty card point tally (it was close to a grand in the year) and at first he was incredulous and then you could see it dawning on him slowly. It was quite painful to watch.
I'll never understand how people can go to Costa every day. If you're going to spend £1,000 per year, at least spend it somewhere that serves decent coffee!

Or buy a decent grinder, an espresso machine and good coffee. It's quicker, tastes much better, and you'll still come out ahead within a year.

Because it’s part of the ritual rather than the drug.. my parents were the same. Twice a week into town. Costa for a latte and a cake... bit of socialising before toddling off to M&S to see if any food had been reduced 😃

Proving the Apple never falls far from the tree - I started exhibiting similar behaviour when taking our lad to Tesco with me on a sat/Sunday morning. Partly to give MrsTT a lie in, partly because whilst he was strapped into a trolley I could relax and the third part of the ritual was him having a milk and doing some colouring in in the Costa afterwards - whilst I topped up my habit with a flat white.

I do seem to have formed a sweet and sour pickled cucumber habit this year - thankfully Tesco doesn’t reveal any league tables.

Edit: PS does anyone want any pickling jars? Seriously I’ve a box full in the cellar now...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on December 08, 2020, 08:22:06 am

I once calculated for my father in law how much he must have spent in Costa coffee to accrue his impressive loyalty card point tally (it was close to a grand in the year) and at first he was incredulous and then you could see it dawning on him slowly. It was quite painful to watch.

:lol:


I once musing on the way to Malham once and said out loud 'I wonder what each route has cost me in terms of fuel driving there and back? You could probably calculate it.' My friend Tom rapidly said 'don't calculate that!' Some things are better not knowing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on December 08, 2020, 10:22:08 am
I once musing on the way to Malham once and said out loud 'I wonder what each route has cost me in terms of fuel driving there and back? You could probably calculate it.' My friend Tom rapidly said 'don't calculate that!' Some things are better not knowing.

I did exactly that once; worked out that doing Tourniquet at Kentmere cost over £100 in fuel. Worth every penny.

That said, this sort of thing reminds me of the story of the smoker and the non-smoker; the latter says to the former that with the money they'd spent on cigs in their lifetime they could have bought a Ferrari by now, to which the smoker replies "well where is your Ferrari then?".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 08, 2020, 10:38:11 am
I once musing on the way to Malham once and said out loud 'I wonder what each route has cost me in terms of fuel driving there and back? You could probably calculate it.' My friend Tom rapidly said 'don't calculate that!' Some things are better not knowing.

Shark... how many times have you..........
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: shark on December 08, 2020, 12:59:07 pm
Worth every penny
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on December 08, 2020, 05:19:40 pm
Your Oak costs must be firmly into antique Mahogany territory.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on December 20, 2020, 05:38:21 pm
First ever Grit 7b+ today. Nice way to end the year  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 20, 2020, 05:44:55 pm
Does this problem have a name?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 20, 2020, 05:48:25 pm
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on December 20, 2020, 05:55:15 pm
Does this problem have a name?

Not one I'm telling you about...  :whistle:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on December 20, 2020, 06:06:40 pm
Does this problem have a name?

To everyone else, it's Zaff Skoczylas
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on December 20, 2020, 06:07:47 pm
First ever Grit 7b+ today. Nice way to end the year  :punk:

Geddin.  :strongbench:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 20, 2020, 06:36:26 pm
Does this problem have a name?

Not one I'm telling you about...  :whistle:

nice one! One of these years I'll make it down to the peak for some bouldering....maybe this winter when things open up again!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 20, 2020, 06:42:40 pm
Well done Andy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on December 20, 2020, 06:56:24 pm
First ever Grit 7b+ today. Nice way to end the year  :punk:

Nice one Andy
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on December 20, 2020, 07:22:58 pm
Nice Andy 👍

Got an email from the Manx government today giving me permission to go and collect my boys at the end of December so they can spend January with me. Not seen them since summer, a pretty decent Christmas present.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 20, 2020, 07:28:08 pm
Nice Andy 👍

Got an email from the Manx government today giving me permission to go and collect my boys at the end of December so they can spend January with me. Not seen them since summer, a pretty decent Christmas present.

That’s great news Nik.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on December 20, 2020, 07:28:25 pm
That's great news Nick  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on December 20, 2020, 07:34:26 pm
Does this problem have a name?

To everyone else, it's Zaff Skoczylas

Boss moves.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on December 20, 2020, 08:15:35 pm
Does this problem have a name?

To everyone else, it's Zaff Skoczylas

Boss moves.
Are you drunk? I (along with the rest of the planet) was expecting "Piss, 7a at most"  ;)
But, yeah, great moves.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on December 20, 2020, 09:25:39 pm
Nice Andy 👍

Got an email from the Manx government today giving me permission to go and collect my boys at the end of December so they can spend January with me. Not seen them since summer, a pretty decent Christmas present.
Fantastic! Really pleased for you.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on December 22, 2020, 12:02:42 pm
Thanks guys, feels slightly double edged what with the variant kicking off and such like...
But booked all the travel yesterday so it should go ahead.

Will probably be another long wait to see them again after this trip though by the look of things.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sdm on December 28, 2020, 09:22:43 pm
Not sure if this belongs in YYFY or NNFN but I finally did the first ever problem that I set on my board!

I set it back in 2018, expecting to get it done in a session or two and gave it a provisional grade of 7A.

After 2 years of trying it, I had never been able to stick either of the top two crux moves in isolation: a pull through on a mono to a two finger pocket, and then a big roll-over throw to the top. I slowly bumped the provisional grade up to 7C+ (I daren't suggest a grade harder than that for anything on my board in case someone ever repeats it and declares it to be piss).

Today, I tried it for the first time since having a few sessions trying it in November (where I got totally shutdown on it as usual). I had barely touched a pocket in the last month but I tried some slightly different beta today and did both of the crux moves second go. Then I rested for a while and did the full problem first attempt, and repeated it twice more to confirm it wasn't a fluke.  :dance1:

Now I'm not sure if it was ever really hard. It didn't feel much harder than my original guess of 7A.  :-\

I still couldn't do it with the original beta so I've still got that to work on. If covid ever blows over, I'll have to get a second opinion to find out whether it was even hard.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on December 28, 2020, 09:24:53 pm
Nice one! I often wonder what grade things on my board are! And it’ll be fun post lockdown to get someone else on it and find out whether I’m any good or a total punter !!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on December 29, 2020, 08:19:29 am
That's awesome, good work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: csl on January 02, 2021, 04:54:26 pm
Just done the first ascent of my new home board, no idea how I got my wife to agree to me building it in the garden but psyched all the same!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on January 04, 2021, 05:58:24 pm
Just dug out my pre-accident training diaries (rarely a morale boost) and compared yesterday’s fingerboard session with my previous best.

I am now stronger at fingerboarding than ever before.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 29, 2021, 06:37:44 pm
I have mentioned that my son (3 of 4) was on the spectrum. He has been variously assessed for Dyspraxia and Autism etc. His difficulties put him under the care the school Councilor, on the SENS Regester and he struggled through Primary. Turned 12 in November.
I was really quite worried about the start of Secondary. He passed his 11+ so followed his sister into the Grammar stream (which I was hoping might be better for him than having to deal with the general population).
Anyway, despite this being one seriously screwed up year and missing the last 3rd of year 6, he’s really thrived.
He even asked for a skateboard for his birthday. If you’ve experienced a child who might be Dyspraxic then you’ll know why that scared me shitless, but this is his fist attempt:
 https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium (https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium)

Dude has just plain changed. Still overly obsessed with Greek mythology and history and tends to get into verbal loops or verbal diarrhoea, but definitely a different kid.

I got a phone call yesterday. He’s doing so well, has a large social group and several friends etc, that he’s been taken off the SENS regester. Excellent report, even in PE.

On the other hand, one of the boys has peed on the seat, there is some suspicion that it was him and No.2 daughter (4 of 4) just sat in it. World War 3 is now underway.
Ho hum.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 29, 2021, 06:51:18 pm
That's brilliant Matt (apart from pee war)

I'm sure parenting skills will have contributed.

 :bow:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 03, 2021, 05:05:22 pm
Managed to sneak out for a few laps of my own private road racing circuit on a sunny afternoon!!!
 :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on March 10, 2021, 10:05:18 am
Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  :w00t: Felt a little surreal.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 10, 2021, 10:47:48 am
I have mentioned that my son (3 of 4) was on the spectrum. He has been variously assessed for Dyspraxia and Autism etc. His difficulties put him under the care the school Councilor, on the SENS Regester and he struggled through Primary. Turned 12 in November.
I was really quite worried about the start of Secondary. He passed his 11+ so followed his sister into the Grammar stream (which I was hoping might be better for him than having to deal with the general population).
Anyway, despite this being one seriously screwed up year and missing the last 3rd of year 6, he’s really thrived.
He even asked for a skateboard for his birthday. If you’ve experienced a child who might be Dyspraxic then you’ll know why that scared me shitless, but this is his fist attempt:
 https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium (https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium)

Dude has just plain changed. Still overly obsessed with Greek mythology and history and tends to get into verbal loops or verbal diarrhoea, but definitely a different kid.

I got a phone call yesterday. He’s doing so well, has a large social group and several friends etc, that he’s been taken off the SENS regester. Excellent report, even in PE.


I missed this, it's great news and gives me a bit of hope. Kyle has Asperger's / ASC and is moving to Academy in the summer. We had considered Grammar route, but finances and logistics prohibit it (only nearby one is Aberdeen City Centre, and he'd not cope with public transport). Added to which he's the youngest in his year (Christmas Birthday, with age cutoff in Scotland the end of the year). We're concerned to say the least, hopefully the change will do him good too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 10, 2021, 11:21:11 am
I have mentioned that my son (3 of 4) was on the spectrum. He has been variously assessed for Dyspraxia and Autism etc. His difficulties put him under the care the school Councilor, on the SENS Regester and he struggled through Primary. Turned 12 in November.
I was really quite worried about the start of Secondary. He passed his 11+ so followed his sister into the Grammar stream (which I was hoping might be better for him than having to deal with the general population).
Anyway, despite this being one seriously screwed up year and missing the last 3rd of year 6, he’s really thrived.
He even asked for a skateboard for his birthday. If you’ve experienced a child who might be Dyspraxic then you’ll know why that scared me shitless, but this is his fist attempt:
 https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium (https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium)

Dude has just plain changed. Still overly obsessed with Greek mythology and history and tends to get into verbal loops or verbal diarrhoea, but definitely a different kid.

I got a phone call yesterday. He’s doing so well, has a large social group and several friends etc, that he’s been taken off the SENS regester. Excellent report, even in PE.


I missed this, it's great news and gives me a bit of hope. Kyle has Asperger's / ASC and is moving to Academy in the summer. We had considered Grammar route, but finances and logistics prohibit it (only nearby one is Aberdeen City Centre, and he'd not cope with public transport). Added to which he's the youngest in his year (Christmas Birthday, with age cutoff in Scotland the end of the year). We're concerned to say the least, hopefully the change will do him good too.

My eldest beat the cut off for her year group by three days. Always the smallest in her year and basically as much as a year behind her peers. Fortunately, she’s probably the strongest member of our little tribe, but it worried me for the first few years of school and again at the start of Comp.
Again now, to be honest. Now she’s a 15 yr old, who’s friends are all 16 or 17, some even starting to drive...

My first cousin, has Aspergers, but managed well through the Grammar system here in the Bay, he’s a language wizz, but even now, takes upwards of a hour to clean his teeth (more should he lose count of strokes) and never let him pack his own bag if you need to catch a flight at some point upto a month away. He’s going to turn 60 soon, lives in France and teaches languages. We, though, as a consequence, grew up with it. Reasonably close knit family (that’s the Italian side).

For several years, we employed a young man, who though never formally diagnosed, was quite probably on there somewhere and not at a particularly shallow point, either.
He got himself into trouble at his College and did quite a bit of damage to our business. Simply because he lacked filters and basically went off without fully processing things and wasn’t receptive to outside intervention. The college gave up and expelled him.
We took him on as an apprentice.
Amazing the difference that a more one to one approach had.
He left us after six years, just before Xmas, to move to Chamonix. His ambition is to be a guide and I reckon he’ll do it.
The wall turned out to be a brilliant environment for him to, unconsciously, develop his social skills. He’ll hate me for writing that, but I’m not sure he ever grasped how difficult he was as a teen. Still a great bloke, now.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on March 10, 2021, 11:42:07 am
Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  :w00t: Felt a little surreal.
I take it that your project is on ze rockz, so fair dos.
Apart from that, I can't possibly imagine how you can resist the need to climb it with the old, harder sequence.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: tomtom on March 10, 2021, 11:49:08 am
Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  :w00t: Felt a little surreal.

I love stuff like this. I am such an 'incremental' climber that everything happens in tiny steps... funny how projecting stuff can yield real satisfaction even with small gains (though this sounds like a bigger one...).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Dexter on March 10, 2021, 01:24:48 pm
Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  :w00t: Felt a little surreal.
I take it that your project is on ze rockz, so fair dos.
Apart from that, I can't possibly imagine how you can resist the need to climb it with the old, harder sequence.

Got to get those big grades for bad beta right?

But in all seriousness good effort making progress. Always nice to make improvements.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on March 10, 2021, 01:41:25 pm
I take it that your project is on ze rockz, so fair dos.
Apart from that, I can't possibly imagine how you can resist the need to climb it with the old, harder sequence.

Ahh yeah it's on the rock and the move was a bump which seems to make things easier for most people.

Here's the move I'm skipping: https://www.instagram.com/p/CHv4zz8KQC3/

And here's how it looks now linking into it (foot pops off after catching the hold): https://www.instagram.com/p/CMPFapbKM6p/

It's probably a morphological difference as multiple people have already told me they can't do it the way I'm doing it now or find it harder. The whole boulder itself is a 6m rising traverse so whilst the individual moves are certainly hard, the meat of the thing is more about getting into the big links and going into full-on battle mode to try and get to the end before the gas runs out and without making a mistake. It's 14 moves (plus foot movements) of desperation and minging lime crimps. I love it!

I agree that if on a board I would be unreasonably obsessed with doing the harder version :great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on March 10, 2021, 01:47:26 pm

I love stuff like this. I am such an 'incremental' climber that everything happens in tiny steps... funny how projecting stuff can yield real satisfaction even with small gains (though this sounds like a bigger one...).

Mint, isn't it. This one is great because it fits my strengths well (crimpy/techy/power endurancy) and is a traverse meaning you can easily work all the sections individually. I managed the second half at the end of 2019 but the first half and full link is a big step up in terms of physicality plus you need a lot more margin on the second half having already burnt a load of power on the burly first half. It's one of those very techy things where you need to crack the body position and movement perfectly and then it starts feeling a lot more doable. So thankful to finally be back on rock pulling hard after months of training at home in the dark/cold  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 10, 2021, 02:02:25 pm

Mint, isn't it.

Kudos for second language skills? Up there with Nibs and jwi (although English might be his third).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on March 10, 2021, 02:25:27 pm

Mint, isn't it.

Kudos for second language skills? Up there with Nibs and jwi (although English might be his third).

You're very kind but I'm british, just based in Germany for the last 4 years  :)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 10, 2021, 02:31:50 pm
Ah fair dos.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on March 10, 2021, 06:42:53 pm
19:52 5k
YYFY!
Psched to get one of the lockdown aims ticked.

[/running interjection]
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: gollum on March 10, 2021, 06:51:57 pm
19:52 5k
YYFY!
Psched to get one of the lockdown aims ticked.

[/running interjection]

Top effort. Well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on April 08, 2021, 01:43:19 pm
Did my board project recently (last session) and just managed to repeat it 2nd go today. Psyched to see improvement!

This session was a warm up for some kilnsey bouldering so hopefully it’s still dry and I can get on some harder bits today 😁
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: battery on May 02, 2021, 09:34:21 pm
First post pregnancy 7a today, been a tough come back but chuffed to feel not just strong but confident on the rock again.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 02, 2021, 09:51:37 pm
What was it? And how did it feel?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: battery on May 02, 2021, 10:04:09 pm
Hours of Practice at West Nab, techy crimpy slab which is absolutely my style and it felt pretty steady.  everyone else (including husband today) seems to Dyno the last move but I did it static which was extremely enjoyable.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 02, 2021, 11:17:41 pm
Stylistic burn-off, nothing better
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: ali k on May 03, 2021, 08:23:44 am
A few days late on posting this but finally completed on the house and got keys Thursday afternoon. Still at the giddy stage of walking round saying “this is my house...if I want to knock that wall down who’s gonna stop me?”
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 03, 2021, 08:36:17 am
Great choice battery, a cool, super-thin problem on lovely rock in a fine hidden gem area  :2thumbsup:

I did the last move via the dyno (well, sort of falling off backwards and catching the top before I was fully detached) and it was the best move I did that winter. I imagine static is even thinner.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: battery on May 03, 2021, 08:50:18 am
Great choice battery, a cool, super-thin problem on lovely rock in a fine hidden gem area  :2thumbsup:

I did the last move via the dyno (well, sort of falling off backwards and catching the top before I was fully detached) and it was the best move I did that winter. I imagine static is even thinner.

It is a fab spot, the kids loved it too. I turned the left hand into a bit of a side pull and got my right foot on the right hand starting hold and just stood up.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 03, 2021, 08:50:33 am
Nice one Battery! - and Ali.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: battery on May 19, 2021, 07:32:25 pm
Having been promoted on another thread, and publicly promising myself, I went out bouldering on my own today. I got spat off and shut down and then when I did get near the top of a problem I got scared and jumped off only to not be able to get up there again (that'll teach me!) but I had a glorious afternoon, absolutely loved it.

I realised whilst I was out that I did used to go out on my own sometimes - in what feels like a past life - and I think possibly the last time I did was when I fell off and knackered my ankle, that possibly put me off.

But I'm glad to be back in the game, thanks to those who suggested and supported it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on May 20, 2021, 12:46:58 pm
Having been promoted on another thread, and publicly promising myself, I went out bouldering on my own today. I got spat off and shut down and then when I did get near the top of a problem I got scared and jumped off only to not be able to get up there again (that'll teach me!) but I had a glorious afternoon, absolutely loved it.

I realised whilst I was out that I did used to go out on my own sometimes - in what feels like a past life - and I think possibly the last time I did was when I fell off and knackered my ankle, that possibly put me off.

But I'm glad to be back in the game, thanks to those who suggested and supported it.

Awesome, glad you had a good time. Spending time alone in a beautiful place doing something you love is, in my opinion, one of life's great joys.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on June 25, 2021, 01:55:17 am
Suspected A2 rupture of pinky finger from the weekend - v loud pop. Went to PT today and turns out it's only a grade 2 partial rupture  :2thumbsup: Also spent 15 mins chatting to D-Woods before the appointment which was cool
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on June 25, 2021, 07:50:37 am
Did he say hi?
What was he doing there?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on June 25, 2021, 10:14:21 am
Suspected A2 rupture of pinky finger from the weekend - v loud pop. Went to PT today and turns out it's only a grade 2 partial rupture  :2thumbsup: Also spent 15 mins chatting to D-Woods before the appointment which was cool

Bloody hell Coops, what on earth are you doing to your fingers! Never heard of anyone getting such frequent pulley injuries. Glad it's better than initially thought at least!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on June 25, 2021, 10:40:28 am
grade 2 partial rupture  :2thumbsup:

Classic Coops.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Coops_13 on June 25, 2021, 01:19:47 pm
Yeah it was stupid. Trying to flash a crimpy V5 while not v warmed up. Weird hold that overloaded the pinky, causing the pop. Just general training etc. talked to him about sleepwalker and the video, Megatron proj and plans for the summer
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 06, 2021, 11:24:04 am
The 14-days later X-ray of my wrist found no fracture.

So I'm pleased but weirdly reluctant to believe the good news.  Someone looked at the images for all of 10 seconds, left without saying a word to me, and the technician then said I was fine and to go home. No diagnosis or explanation of my woes, or advice on care. It all felt very sudden and off-hand after 14 days of moderate pain and considerable inconvenience!

I'm now trying to convince myself that their speed was a result of expertise and practice and not a lack of care!  Surely they would have spotted a fracture that's been healing for a fortnight!?

Anyhow, I think I'll try some gentle climbing this weekend and see how it responds (maybe indoors for a bit more control).  No more rambling! Both my walks last weekend involved getting lost in marshes, in heavy rain, and having to navigate my way out by compass bearings! Back to leisure that doesn't involve being sodden and confused; I get enough of that at work!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: M1V0 on July 06, 2021, 12:20:07 pm
Nice one Moose,

if you would rather something to worry about, a few years back I ended up having a CAT scan on my wrist after I insisted it was a break and not a sprain.

A&E staff weren't convinced initially and told me it was a sprain originally, sent my off with a splint, I came back the next week and insisted it was a break, so they cast it to humour me (I suspect) and sent my off for an x-ray. X-ray came back clean so they ordered a CAT scan.

Several weeks later (I think they were annoyed at me and wanted me to suffer being in a cast for "a sprain") I had the scan and then when I went back next time, I had indeed suffered a fracture! Not of the scaphoid but of one of the trapezoid bones. Apparently super rare to fracture these (rare enough that if you google "trapezoid fracture" the top results are medical publications on just how rare these cases are), and the doctor heading the clinic was very interested in me (well, not me but my fracture).

So if you're still concerned, maybe push for a CAT scan for more peace of mind. Healing process for trapezoid is exactly the same as for scaphoid, but I've never suffered any of the long-term effects some people have with scaphoid (aching in winter, decreased mobility and the like). Unlikely you've done this though, less than .4% wrist injuries are trapezoid fractures!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on July 06, 2021, 12:48:56 pm
That's good to hear Moose. I appreciate the off-hand response leaves you feeling uncertain, student medics have their communication skills assessed these days but this doesn't always translate into real life...

Personal experience is falling on an outstretched hand two years ago. First X-ray showed nothing, second one at two weeks showed an avulsion fracture (tiny flake of bone pulled off where the ligament attaches; like a torn ligament but heals better). I was already in a wrist splint so no change of management was needed and it wasn't even mentioned at the follow-up! (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30176.msg587996.html#msg587996)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on July 06, 2021, 01:12:50 pm
Also not wanting to worry you, but wrist fractures (of carpal bones) can be very hard to see on x-ray, so if it doesn't clear up don't be afraid to go for a scan. Also, x-rays will not directly image ligament tears, so again, if it doesn't clear up get it seen. A complete scapho-lunate ligament rupture should show on an x-ray as increased distance between the bones and they should have checked for that, but I have come across NHS cases whey they have missed it. To be honest, if it was me (and it was) I'd just pay for a private wrist consultation immediately for peace of mind. If you want a recommendation, Mike Hayton is as good as it gets and he also knows about climbers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 06, 2021, 01:59:10 pm
Thanks for all your (frankly worrying) advice! I think for now I'll assume (well, hope)  it is basically okay and see how it responds.

 I don't think there are any major ligament / tendon issues as my hand is fully functional and still seems strong. Pinching type motions hurt but could presumably be due to inflammation? I still have pretty obvious bruising along my thumb.  If it doesn't progress (or regressed), I'll then seek a consultation to check for something more exotic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Helge on July 07, 2021, 09:03:14 am
I don't really post often but just wanted to add that it's worth getting it checked if it persists. I walked around with a scaphoid fracture for over a month thinking it was a sprained wrist. My then gf pressured me to go to the hospital after it wouldn't get better. X-ray didn't show anything, CT scan showed the fracture. Still having some issues with that wrist today.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sheavi on July 07, 2021, 10:00:24 am
How many x-rays (angles/views) did you have taken?  Have you pain in the anatomical snuffbox?


Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: TobyD on July 07, 2021, 10:04:46 am
Thanks for all your (frankly worrying) advice! I think for now I'll assume (well, hope)  it is basically okay and see how it responds.

 I don't think there are any major ligament / tendon issues as my hand is fully functional and still seems strong. Pinching type motions hurt but could presumably be due to inflammation? I still have pretty obvious bruising along my thumb.  If it doesn't progress (or regressed), I'll then seek a consultation to check for something more exotic.

I'd probably get it checked out further before cracking on with climbing. As above, scaphoid # can be very hard to see on any scans, but potentially bad news if untreated. IIRC some distil radius # are hard to see as well, and also a common one after FOOSH injuries. Not trying to worry you, if also may very well just be a bit bruised but a little more patience is rarely regretted in the long run.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 07, 2021, 10:29:34 am
How many x-rays (angles/views) did you have taken?  Have you pain in the anatomical snuffbox?

There were 3 X-rays.  The pain is close but not entirely coincident with the snuffbox - basically from the base of the thumb and along to its first joint / knuckle.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 07, 2021, 12:59:06 pm

I'd probably get it checked out further before cracking on with climbing.

Recommend a GPS watch before you launch into any more bogtrotting!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sheavi on July 08, 2021, 11:08:41 am
How many x-rays (angles/views) did you have taken?  Have you pain in the anatomical snuffbox?

There were 3 X-rays.  The pain is close but not entirely coincident with the snuffbox - basically from the base of the thumb and along to its first joint / knuckle.

I would not be climbing just yet.  Could possibly be a trapezium injury which can be hard to diagnose via x-ray.  If symptoms persist push for a CT/MRI.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on July 08, 2021, 12:21:52 pm
The trapezium (next one down from the scaphoid) in my left hand was crushed so badly and left undiagnosed for so long that the consultant could only point to where it should be on the x-ray.  :sick:

After leaving it for a further three months before deciding on a course of action my hand had adapted to working without it to the extent that he decided to not even operate. Even though my hand’s visibly deformed (the thumb’s constantly in a thin-hands jam position now and pivots more from the second joint than the base) I can climb fine and don’t have any pain from it these days.

A few months isn’t much time off climbing in the grand scheme of things.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on July 10, 2021, 07:12:06 pm
First venture into top-rope soloing, did not die!

(Well, first venture on actual rock, as opposed to testing my set-up at home while dangling off a beam indoors.)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 10, 2021, 10:23:30 pm
First venture into top-rope soloing, did not die!

(Well, first venture on actual rock, as opposed to testing my set-up at home while dangling off a beam indoors.)

Nice one 👍
I've been doing a bit to make sure I have a good time despite having some annoying fear problems
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 12, 2021, 10:36:13 pm
How many x-rays (angles/views) did you have taken?  Have you pain in the anatomical snuffbox?

There were 3 X-rays.  The pain is close but not entirely coincident with the snuffbox - basically from the base of the thumb and along to its first joint / knuckle.

An update.  On Saturday, I was dumb / desperate enough to try a brief Depot session - it was surprisingly painless (my wrist seems to feel okay when "engaged").  But, weird stabbing pains when doing more mundane tasks (opening jars etc.), despite the swelling and bruising abating, reinforced the need for caution.

So, instead of going climbing again, Sunday was a 12 mile walk around the Peak (and only getting slightly lost) and then making use of my private health plan to arrange a GP apointment .  A video consultation has now secured a referral for an MRI, although it will probably take another week or two for the result. 

Meantime, I have bought some of the O/S maps I really should have been using already. I am resigned to tramping around moors and bogs rather than climbing for at least another couple of weeks - wet feet are better than risking a long term fucked wrist (although, I will be back at work.... just being a bit more careful than usual).  I'm telling myself rambling is good mental RP training - similarly long, tedious, with frequent going backwards, and viewing getting home unharmed as a victory!  I'm very grateful for your encourgement to take it easy and to seek more advice.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 13, 2021, 07:20:52 am
Happy tramping and good healing Moose.

7am swim in the Kattegat sea. Half a mile of beach backed by low hills covered in birch and pine, a couple of other people down the far end. Cloudless skies and sea like a mill pond, the water crystal clear and cool but not cold. Nothing but birdsong and the splash of my kicks. Utter, utter perfection.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2021, 08:31:34 am

Meantime, I have bought some of the O/S maps I really should have been using already.


The OS Maps App is worth downloading an subscribing to. The "Augmented Reality" bit works well most of the time, and adds a bit of interest to walks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 13, 2021, 08:49:33 am
I've got the app but only have the Ilkley area map downloaded to it (free download with the paper copy).  Outside the Ilkley area it's very low res and bugger all use where there's no signal (which has occurred dismayingly often!).  When I get the maps I've ordered, I'll be able to download off-line 1:25,000 coverage for everywhere I want to go - might purchase the app subscription too as it's not too pricey.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on July 13, 2021, 08:58:18 am
If you get the subscription, you can download areas full 1:25k resolution (if available for the area) to your phone for when you don’t have signal. I’ve not taken a paper map out with me for ages except on winter days when I think my phone might die!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: IanP on July 13, 2021, 09:02:49 am
I've got the app but only have the Ilkley area map downloaded to it (free download with the paper copy).  Outside the Ilkley area it's very low res and bugger all use where there's no signal (which has occurred dismayingly often!).  When I get the maps I've ordered, I'll be able to download off-line 1:25,000 coverage for everywhere I want to go - might purchase the app subscription too as it's not too pricey.

The OS subscription is great value if you walk regularly - mapping for the whole of the UK for £24 a year including ability to download of map area or route so lack of mobile signal is not an issue.  Despite being moderately competent with a map/compass the ability to have 1:25,000 map on your phone showing you exact location makes everything so much easier.  Also have access to lots of other peoples routes which can be useful for planning.  The app is not perfect and has a few irritating quirks but does the important stuff well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 13, 2021, 10:18:54 am
^ This.

Working our way through the local Munros and some Corbetts with the kids, and I have the paper map in the rucksack for backup, and use the phone for all navigation, not needed the paper map yet.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 16, 2021, 04:44:29 pm
I'd probably get it checked out further before cracking on with climbing. As above, scaphoid # can be very hard to see on any scans, but potentially bad news if untreated. IIRC some distil radius # are hard to see as well, and also a common one after FOOSH injuries. Not trying to worry you, if also may very well just be a bit bruised but a little more patience is rarely regretted in the long run.

A quick update; the long awaited consultation from my local GP on the radiology report was a text message "The followup Xray of your right wrist was normal.  Best Wishes.  Dr XXXX".  No mention of any possibility it might still be broken or prognosis / advice on care . 

So, I decided to do what I probably should have done from the start and informed my work healthcare insurance of the accident.  Had a video interview with a GP later that day and he said the intermittant pain is probably internal inflammation but he'd refer me for an MRI just to make sure.  Two days later, thanks to a cancellation, I had the MRI (which was a lot more "Event Horizon" than I was expecting) and am now waiting for the findings. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2021, 05:16:38 pm
scary things! even more so if you have climb completely inside them (back injury).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on July 16, 2021, 05:46:30 pm
Had a video interview with a GP later that day and he said the intermittent pain is probably internal inflammation but he'd refer me for an MRI just to make sure. 

It probably is inflammation or oedema but the scan, to make sure, is worth it. Hope it's all ok.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 16, 2021, 06:01:44 pm
I've got the app but only have the Ilkley area map downloaded to it (free download with the paper copy).  Outside the Ilkley area it's very low res and bugger all use where there's no signal (which has occurred dismayingly often!).  When I get the maps I've ordered, I'll be able to download off-line 1:25,000 coverage for everywhere I want to go - might purchase the app subscription too as it's not too pricey.

The OS subscription is great value if you walk regularly - mapping for the whole of the UK for £24 a year including ability to download of map area or route so lack of mobile signal is not an issue.  Despite being moderately competent with a map/compass the ability to have 1:25,000 map on your phone showing you exact location makes everything so much easier.  Also have access to lots of other peoples routes which can be useful for planning.  The app is not perfect and has a few irritating quirks but does the important stuff well.

The ability to print off bits of maps has been useful for giving the kids their own maps when we go out
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 16, 2021, 06:55:22 pm
Been doing the same with Cubs too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 16, 2021, 07:36:42 pm
scary things! even more so if you have climb completely inside them (back injury).

Oh... I had to go all the way in, while maintaining a one-arm-outstretched superman position! I was prepared for some stress from being motionless for so long, it was the intense noise that was unexpected!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 17, 2021, 10:31:41 am
Love it. All the bewildering whirring clanking and grinding, what does it all mean?? They offered to pipe in music through the ear protectors, I asked if I could go in without the ear protectors at all - not allowed apparently  ::)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nai on July 17, 2021, 12:30:14 pm
Oh... I had to go all the way in, while maintaining a one-arm-outstretched superman position!

(http://www.ayrshirehistory.com/sweetie_papers/cadbury%27s_super_mousse.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 17, 2021, 02:33:09 pm
Love it. All the bewildering whirring clanking and grinding, what does it all mean??

The intense magnetic fields of an MRI weaken the barrier between the material world and The Warp; the noise is Chaos, daemons trying to tear through the rift and steal your soul!  More seriously though (just), you possibly missed out if you didn't have music, it gave my experience a rather spectral quality!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on July 17, 2021, 04:46:06 pm
But music makes it harder to listen to the exciting post-industrial soundscape!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 17, 2021, 05:00:24 pm
But music makes it harder to listen to the exciting post-industrial soundscape!

In my case the headphones were so bad (presumably as they can't have magnets in?) that the music was just an faint, intermittant motif among the noise - like someone putting tinsel on a sledgehammer!

Buggerit, this explains the full experience better, for those who haven'e experienced the delights of modern diagnostic medicine.  Shamelessly reposted from my facebook page: 

The offer of an MRI scan at 90 minutes notice, only two days after my referral thanks to a late cancellation; I gratefully accepted the chance.  I assumed it would be a fleeting, trivial procedure; a few minutes in Bingley then back to work. 

But while hardly long, at around half-an-hour, it was an unsettling and intense experience.  Stretched supine, balky arm outstretched and clamped in a padded box, a sheet draped over my head; I was repeatedly and firmly instructed to remain motionless, otherwise the scan would have to restart. 

I expected some physical discomfort as I was slid, posed like a corpse in an ancient burial rite into the illuminated maw of the scanner but I was completely unprepared for the noise.  A continual cacophony of clatters, crashes, hammering, whines, and buzzes; with brief, silent interludes that tricked me into thinking the scan was complete. 

I was given a pair of headphones to mitigate the aural assault but they were weedy things, their output only evident during lulls in the noise.  A radio program was interviewing someone who had produced classical arrangements of Joy Division songs.  The ghostly voice of an Ian Curtis impersonator occasionally slid into my consciousness before being obliterated “… or respect run so dry….chugga-chugga-KLANG-bzzzzzzzzzz”.  Like a séance in the middle of roadworks, or being trapped in a floatation tank with a post-punk DIY enthusiast. 

Eventually it was over; I was told to put my shoes back on and staggered into the sunlight.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on July 17, 2021, 07:01:01 pm
I'm amazed they don't routinely tell people in advance about the noise (and I try to tell people whenever I know someone who's going to have an MRI).

You'd think it'd be a good idea to mention "Oh yeah, it's going to sound like some hideous mechanical disaster is occurring all around you while you're stuck in this tube, but don't panic, that's normal".
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 17, 2021, 07:03:03 pm
You'd think it'd be a good idea to mention "Oh yeah, it's going to sound like some Hideous Mechanical Disaster is occurring all around you while you're stuck in this tube, but don't panic, that's normal".
Their second album is pretty sick tbh, ramped up the grindcore influence and the guitar tone is relentless  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on July 17, 2021, 08:41:16 pm
For anyone who is not familiar with these auditory delights: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Aj2QspPf7s

I have had various MRIs and admit I now find the noise weirdly relaxing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on July 17, 2021, 09:44:51 pm
It was the mixture of "hideous mechanical disaster" and barely heard music that did it for me:

 KLANGA-KLANGA-KLANGA- love will tear us apart again...-CHUGGA-CHUGGA-ZZZZ-ZZZ- still this appeal- BANGA-BANGA-CLANK.... ...PSSST....

"Mr Ward, can you please get up, and put your shoes back on?"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Falling Down on July 18, 2021, 06:26:49 pm
I have had various MRIs and admit I now find the noise weirdly relaxing.

Same. It’s the highlight of any hospital trip.  Autechre/Russel Hasswell/Kevin Drumm/Peter Reberg/Prurient - it’s not far off to what I listen to at home at times.

Simon Grab made an album from samples  https://simongrab.bandcamp.com/album/mri (https://simongrab.bandcamp.com/album/mri) enjoy 😉

Get well soon Moose!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 12, 2021, 07:03:09 pm
No.1 sprog picked up her GCSE results today.
Two 9’s
Four 8’s (plus an 8 in Statistics that she sat last year)
Two 7’s
And a Distinction* (BTEC) in performing arts.

I had no hand in any of it, not helping with homework, even once (if I offered, she would roll her eyes and politely tell me to F off).
Last year, I asked her if she wanted to sit down and choose a 6th form. She gave me a funny look and said she’d already done all her applications and had two online interviews.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on August 30, 2021, 09:32:39 pm
I managed 5 x 10 second hangs using half crimp. feet off the floor!

Finger rehab is working.   :strongbench:

Two months ago, any bodyweight hang resulted in pulley pain, and I haven't pulled hard since April. Soon!!!




Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 02, 2021, 04:21:02 pm
Which arm, dunngy??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on September 02, 2021, 05:11:50 pm
Right. Hangs were from both arms though
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 07, 2021, 10:04:25 pm
Did Cruising for a Bruising (7b+) tonight after giving it a go a few weeks ago. Technically matched my hardest sport routes to date too!

Been having a great time with short sessions at Kilnsey, Yew Cogar and Trollers lately. Got some real psyche for getting out again. Something special about stealing a few hours after work.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 07, 2021, 11:09:51 pm
Did Cruising for a Bruising (7b+) tonight after giving it a go a few weeks ago. Technically matched my hardest sport routes to date too!

Been having a great time with short sessions at Kilnsey, Yew Cogar and Trollers lately. Got some real psyche for getting out again. Something special about stealing a few hours after work.

Good work. Have a look at Staying Power if you haven't already. Similar vibe and not much harder but a great climb.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 08, 2021, 07:28:36 am
Did Cruising for a Bruising (7b+) tonight after giving it a go a few weeks ago. Technically matched my hardest sport routes to date too!

Been having a great time with short sessions at Kilnsey, Yew Cogar and Trollers lately. Got some real psyche for getting out again. Something special about stealing a few hours after work.

Good work. Have a look at Staying Power if you haven't already. Similar vibe and not much harder but a great climb.

I tried the link from Vorsprung into staying power afterwards as a friend was trying it. Cool route but a bit harder I think - 7c/+. All the moves were fine but definitely a big step up in difficulty.

Might give staying power a go next time though, cheers.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ross Barker on September 09, 2021, 08:33:52 am
Managed 1-4-7 on the big campus rungs last night, on both sides as well! Pretty chuffed as I was immensely close to getting it pre-pandemic, but since then I've felt like I'm a bit weaker and lacking in power.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 15, 2021, 07:23:01 pm
not climbing related

I've been learning to ride a surfskate this summer, taking my time due to age and frailty

today I had my first go in a bowl (Meersbrook) - what fun!

I've had to try very hard to be sensible and not go again this evening (legs were like jelly at the end of the session)

:bounce:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: erm, sam on September 15, 2021, 07:32:41 pm
Good effort! I have been skateboarding this summer for the first time in a vvvvlong time and it is fun. Main priority is not hurting something.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 15, 2021, 08:17:24 pm
Main priority is not hurting something.

yes, I tested the effectiveness of my padding a couple of times
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 15, 2021, 08:19:59 pm
Nice one Lagers. Just avoid taking any 'boarding inspiration from Duncan Disorderly and you'll be fine and hopefully in one piece.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 15, 2021, 09:10:08 pm
Did Cruising for a Bruising (7b+) tonight after giving it a go a few weeks ago. Technically matched my hardest sport routes to date too!

Been having a great time with short sessions at Kilnsey, Yew Cogar and Trollers lately. Got some real psyche for getting out again. Something special about stealing a few hours after work.

Good work. Have a look at Staying Power if you haven't already. Similar vibe and not much harder but a great climb.

I tried the link from Vorsprung into staying power afterwards as a friend was trying it. Cool route but a bit harder I think - 7c/+. All the moves were fine but definitely a big step up in difficulty.

Might give staying power a go next time though, cheers.

Went back on this this evening and got it second redpoint. First 7c and felt fairly steady  :strongbench: :great: :2thumbsup:

The walk out from Yew Cogar was still a killer though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 16, 2021, 10:48:15 am
Did Cruising for a Bruising (7b+) tonight after giving it a go a few weeks ago. Technically matched my hardest sport routes to date too!

Been having a great time with short sessions at Kilnsey, Yew Cogar and Trollers lately. Got some real psyche for getting out again. Something special about stealing a few hours after work.

Good work. Have a look at Staying Power if you haven't already. Similar vibe and not much harder but a great climb.

I tried the link from Vorsprung into staying power afterwards as a friend was trying it. Cool route but a bit harder I think - 7c/+. All the moves were fine but definitely a big step up in difficulty.

Might give staying power a go next time though, cheers.

Went back on this this evening and got it second redpoint. First 7c and felt fairly steady  :strongbench: :great: :2thumbsup:

The walk out from Yew Cogar was still a killer though.

Nice. You must be charging to be getting a good evening session at Yew Cogar at this time of year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on September 16, 2021, 12:17:39 pm
Nice one Lagers. Just avoid taking any 'boarding inspiration from Duncan Disorderly and you'll be fine and hopefully in one piece.

What you on about??? Not been in hospital once this year!! (tbf I have probably only been skating half a dozen times tho but still  :whistle:)....

I should really invest in some pads tho (broke my wrist last year by just landing primo when doing a kickflip on the flat FFS!)....

Effort tho Lagers... Might see you in the bowl sometime!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 16, 2021, 12:33:17 pm
Did Cruising for a Bruising (7b+) tonight after giving it a go a few weeks ago. Technically matched my hardest sport routes to date too!

Been having a great time with short sessions at Kilnsey, Yew Cogar and Trollers lately. Got some real psyche for getting out again. Something special about stealing a few hours after work.

Good work. Have a look at Staying Power if you haven't already. Similar vibe and not much harder but a great climb.

I tried the link from Vorsprung into staying power afterwards as a friend was trying it. Cool route but a bit harder I think - 7c/+. All the moves were fine but definitely a big step up in difficulty.

Might give staying power a go next time though, cheers.

Went back on this this evening and got it second redpoint. First 7c and felt fairly steady  :strongbench: :great: :2thumbsup:

The walk out from Yew Cogar was still a killer though.

Nice. You must be charging to be getting a good evening session at Yew Cogar at this time of year.

Leaving at 4pm gets you to the crag in about 50 mins. So quick warm up on the route gives 2 RP’s each. Won’t last for much longer unfortunately though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on September 16, 2021, 12:50:38 pm
Main priority is not hurting something.

How likely is this for a beginner skateboarder who’s not 15? I have a skatepark near home, it looks like it would be fun. On the other hand the last few years have been a little thin on the climbing front, I intend to rectify that so absolutely no interest in getting injured for something that’s a side hobby at best.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 16, 2021, 01:01:20 pm
It's something I've pondered; kids are both keen to give it a go, could be something to learn together. I've got full PPE from when I had a brief foray into DH(ish) mountain biking, would look like a tit at the local skate park wearing it all though.

Never skated. Something carvy like a snowskate looks fun
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on September 16, 2021, 01:03:53 pm
Main priority is not hurting something.

How likely is this for a beginner skateboarder who’s not 15? I have a skatepark near home, it looks like it would be fun. On the other hand the last few years have been a little thin on the climbing front, I intend to rectify that so absolutely no interest in getting injured for something that’s a side hobby at best.

It's a tough one... I've skated since I was 12 on and off and love it! I do have to say that it's put me in hospital more times than anything else I've ever done though! If you're careful and pad up then you can probably mitigate the worst risks... If you're not and still think you'll bounce like you did in your teens (like me!) then you're likely to end up in A&E sheepishly telling them that the reason you can't move you wrist, are coughing up blood, can't walk, have a haemotoma the size of a fist (delete as applicable) is because you fell off your skateboard.... And don't expect any sympathy  :-[

Personally I'm mad keen to climb right now so am not skating... How long that will last is anybody's guess  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 16, 2021, 01:09:19 pm
Main priority is not hurting something.

How likely is this for a beginner skateboarder who’s not 15? I have a skatepark near home, it looks like it would be fun. On the other hand the last few years have been a little thin on the climbing front, I intend to rectify that so absolutely no interest in getting injured for something that’s a side hobby at best.

It’s not even likely for a beginner skateboarder of 15 and under.
The mark of my arse cheeks are well and truly worn into a couple of the older seats in the waiting room of Torbay A&E as mute testimony to this fact, proved now four times over.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 16, 2021, 06:13:05 pm
Main priority is not hurting something.

How likely is this for a beginner skateboarder who’s not 15? I have a skatepark near home, it looks like it would be fun. On the other hand the last few years have been a little thin on the climbing front, I intend to rectify that so absolutely no interest in getting injured for something that’s a side hobby at best.

I had no skate experience. Surfskate is reasonably safe to get started on and you can have a lot of fun on the flat at low speeds learning to pump.
There's quite a lot of older people taking it up. Have a look at the Surfskate Facebook group.
Some good YouTube resources are surfskatelove, shane Lai, landlocked surfer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on September 17, 2021, 01:36:51 pm
One armed lock offs at a 90 degree elbow bend; 5+ seconds on both arms now. Feels like a strong progression and I'm dead pleased with it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on September 18, 2021, 08:08:46 am
Did Cruising for a Bruising (7b+) tonight after giving it a go a few weeks ago. Technically matched my hardest sport routes to date too!

Been having a great time with short sessions at Kilnsey, Yew Cogar and Trollers lately. Got some real psyche for getting out again. Something special about stealing a few hours after work.

Good work. Have a look at Staying Power if you haven't already. Similar vibe and not much harder but a great climb.

A final YYFY - got on staying power yesterday and got it first go. Flashed to about 2/3 before joining the easier top of the route I did a few days ago.

Was a proper battle but hardest flash (other than the top) I’ve done. Loving Yew Cogar at the moment!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wil on September 18, 2021, 12:03:12 pm
I've lost my running mojo in the past few years, and last winter in particular. (the odd 5k, but nothing much else)

My goals with running are always to keep generally fit, and to be hill fit, rather than any particular times or distances. Now I'm in Scotland this feels even more important. I don't want to get beasted on a walk in and miss out on great climbing!

Anyway, a mate roped me in to doing the OMM this year after his partner dropped out. It's given me the motivation to train and push some longer distances again. After 6 weeks of running more regularly and building pace and distance I've finally found my stride. Feels a long time ago since I last did that!

I've run 15k twice this week and felt good. I even ran them fairly quick, by my standards, which is always motivating. End of Oct for the OMM and feeling happy that I'll have the distance in my legs for the B class by then. Mountain miles for the next couple of weeks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GazM on September 18, 2021, 05:02:05 pm
Nice one Wil. I've not done an OMM for years but did lots for a spell a while back and assuming not too much has changed I'd imagine that you'll be fine in B-Class.
It's not so much about running fitness (although of course that helps) but more about being able to keep moving on rough ground for long periods (the ground was often hard to run, even for the Elite winners) and working as a team to navigate well.
You'll love it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wil on September 18, 2021, 05:38:45 pm
Cheers Gaz. I did the C class quite a few years ago which was fine (except for the weather on day 2). I've done various fell running things over the years, but that's the only MM I've done. I was quite surprised at how much of it was really about the difficult terrain more than the running, but that was what made me say yes this time, because I might not be very fast, but I'm usually pretty good at just grinding out the miles slowly if needed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: GazM on September 18, 2021, 05:58:48 pm
Totally. Back in the day I had several top ten finishes in Elite despite knowing I would never be anywhere near top ten in any fell race. Just got to keep grinding and concentrate on your nav.
Enjoy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: battery on September 26, 2021, 07:25:14 pm
Ran the Manchester 10k today. Training has been non-existent, I've had (another) baby since running it last so sleep is pretty much non-existent too. I was 1 minute off my PB. Chuffed to bits. And I really enjoyed it. Was so nervous before the start but want I've learned which also applies to my climbing is that trying hard isn't comfortable, it doesn't feel quite right, and sometimes it bloody hurts but that's trying hard. And it's paying off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: kingholmesy on September 26, 2021, 08:43:51 pm
Good effort Battery.

Nicely put about trying hard too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 26, 2021, 09:10:52 pm
Chuffed to bits.

Yes!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 28, 2021, 08:19:28 am
Good job, and nicely put about trying hard. Be it anything from PBing in an event or snagging a segment crown.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 06, 2021, 07:37:33 pm
I went to the climbing wall last night. Now this might not seem worthy of a YYFY moment, but to put in context, it’s been well over 2 years, possibly 3, since I last went climbing. Injuries, work, kids, all the usual things have stopped me in recent years. But I managed an hour at Ibex in Darlington, tootling about on low grade stuff. I was pleased to find my boots still smell, and still hurt, but the muscles knew what to do and I didn’t embarrass myself. It just felt bloody marvellous to do the physical act of climbing. The last few years have seen me succumb to bad shoulders, and generally lose all my fitness and get way out of shape. Getting out of bed in the morning is not fun, getting up off the floor after playing with the kids requires planning, everything feels like hard work! But I felt ok moving about on the wall, it was very pleasant and quite surprising. Going to try my best to break myself back into it easily without going to hard to fast. Watch this space!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on October 06, 2021, 07:48:33 pm
Nice one  :yes:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on October 06, 2021, 08:03:35 pm
Congratulations. I bet that feels sweet after so many years.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on October 06, 2021, 09:14:10 pm
Nice one Mr Tyson, always good to come back after a period of injury.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Mike Tyson on October 06, 2021, 10:16:37 pm
Cheers folks. It is nice to feel like there might be a chance I can actually get climbing again, and enjoy it without too much worry about injury (the fear will still be there, it’ll make me be careful hopefully).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 07, 2021, 07:55:38 am
Getting out of bed in the morning is not fun, getting up off the floor after playing with the kids requires planning, everything feels like hard work!

What a drag it is getting old. Especially if you are still doing a physically demanding job.

Anyway, welcome back oh prodigal one.

I find after a comeback from no climbing for a bit that within a few weeks I will be climbing thinking it's going OK, then mid session any perfomance just drops off a cliff, be prepared if happens and don't try to thrash on, accept it and regroup.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SamT on October 07, 2021, 09:21:46 am

Quote
"getting up off the floor after playing with the kids requires planning"

Lovely turn of phrase .. actually lol'd..   I know the feeling all to well at the moment.  First half of the year was going really well, getting loads done.. and since August, its just gone to shit.  Just not getting out for one reason or another then cold on top of cold, then tore my hamstring in my knee again on my first day out  bouldering in a while and now Covid... So feel like I've been hit by a bus..

However, once I'm out of isolation and feeling a bit better, the road begins and I'm hoping for a similar YYFY moment of going to the wall for the first time since covid began and pottering on really easy stuff.  Keep it up.. you'll soon be back cranking, but take it slow to avoid injury!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on October 07, 2021, 09:28:37 am
The best thing about coming back from injury is that you’re just on your own path and comparisons to what other climbers are doing are irrelevant.

Come on Mike!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SamT on October 07, 2021, 10:48:30 am
The best thing about coming back from injury is that you’re just on your own path and comparisons to what other climbers are doing are irrelevant.

So true.. I used to compare myself to my peers.. ego was ever present.  Not really at all these days, just set personal goals.  I appear to have grown up!

(I'm not actually that good at achieving my own goals though).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Nibile on October 07, 2021, 11:41:55 am
getting up off the floor after playing with the kids requires planning,
Not to talk about sitting on the floor!
Great news, eyes on the prize and take it easy.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 07, 2021, 02:59:41 pm
The best thing about coming back from injury is that you’re just on your own path and comparisons to what other climbers are doing are irrelevant.

So true.. I used to compare myself to my peers.. ego was ever present.  Not really at all these days, just set personal goals.  I appear to have grown up!


Also, forget thinking about what you used to be able to do, you've had a complete reset. Avoiding venues you used to have wired are good for this.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on October 09, 2021, 03:51:51 pm
Managed my first 7C today (Launch Control at Kilnsey) after punting off the top twice yesterday! Well psyched. Got very close on a 7B+ next to it which I’m keen to go back for.

I’ve achieved parity in my sport and Boulder grades now  :2thumbsup:

Been enjoying the quick sessions recently. Warm up on the board at home and, if feeling strong, going out and just getting straight on it.

Took the dog for a 5 mile walk/run on the bridleway out of kilnsey village after too. First time doing any running for quite a while so happy that my knee held out fine.

Met a nice guy at Kilnsey too who lives a few mins walk from me - will be good to have company for board sessions over winter. Really good day.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2021, 08:40:31 am
Seeing it got ignored on Power Club I'll blow my trumpet here. first 50km Ultra done, 5:12:42. Weather from good to shite, trails from glorious to fucking awful. Was just glad to make it to the start after 4 attempts to do one. 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: nik at work on October 12, 2021, 10:24:23 am
Excellent.
I have no clue about ultra’s, but get the sense that completing the thing is as much the goal as any specific time?
Having said that, was the time where you were aiming, assuming you were?
Fine effort.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2021, 10:33:54 am
Cheers Nik. It's a very different vibe to any road marathons or HMs I've gone. I'm sure the top of field are gunning for PBs and course records, but most are pretty friendly and chatty and just out for a challenge and getting it done.

5:30 to 6 as a worst case, 5:00 to 5:30 as a "be happy with" and under 5 as a stretch. First half went fine and 5 looked like maybe manageable, but some nasty hills and tricky trails in the second half, plus it started pissing down, and got pretty muddy, and ankle got sore for the last section, so happy with what I managed.

But got Dava Way 50km in late November, meant to be a faster course. (however might sack it off completely if weather in Speyside looks really shit).     
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SamT on October 12, 2021, 10:38:04 am

Effort.

I genuinely find the thought of such things far more off putting than say, Indian face, or grotty peak district caving diving.

Just pure lunacy. 

"Tha must be crackers"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2021, 08:42:27 am
It's just putting in front of the other. And eating. Someone described ultras as a moving picnic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on October 13, 2021, 10:00:21 am
Nice one Chris, for some reason I thought you'd already done a few of these!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2021, 10:05:24 am
Cheers. I've done Ring of Steall twice, but that's "only" 29km distance (but with with 2700m vert). I'll do another ultra over that again any day.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 13, 2021, 10:20:09 am
I was ruined after walking the ring of steall
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2021, 10:23:54 am
The standard way? The race starts from Kinlochleven, does Devil's Ridge to Glen Nevis, up past Steall Falls then rest of the ring and back down. I had DOMS for a solid week.

Hats off to Reeve for doing the Glencoe Skyline that year, and richiebetts for doing it this year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on October 13, 2021, 10:28:43 am
 Yeah, the easy way. Sounds cool!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on November 15, 2021, 10:24:54 am
Much to my surprise, and delight, on Friday I received a polling card for the Copenhagen municipal elections happening tomorrow. Voting in another country feels like a rather novel and exciting experience. And given PR and the range of parties I might even get to a vote for a party that represents my politics.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on November 15, 2021, 11:02:54 am
Glad to hear that Denmark has this sorted with customary efficiency. In France I have to demand the registration on the rolls for EU and municipal elections myself.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on November 29, 2021, 10:04:11 pm
I touched my toes just now.  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on November 30, 2021, 07:51:38 am
I touched my toes just now.  ;D

Brilliant!

I always wonder how you are recovering. I know you don’t “have a choice” as it were, but I am always seriously impressed by people who don’t just give up after such major set backs in life. You and Toby both seem, from my limited vantage point, to have really put the effort in, when you both might just as easily settled into a very different, darker, reality, with quite some justification.

I just received my first salary in a decade and an appointment with the Tailor, next Wednesday, to be fitted for No.1s and Mess Undress, so despite Covid leaving me, mostly, sat on the couch; I finally feel like a real Officer in Her Majesty’s Service.
I did spend an hour or so in a gas chamber, last week, wearing a blazer, tie and Gas-mask, jogging on the spot or jumping up and down, which felt about as “Officer” as you can get…
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on November 30, 2021, 08:30:27 am
Nice one Robocheque  :smirk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on November 30, 2021, 03:28:04 pm
I always wonder how you are recovering. I know you don’t “have a choice” as it were, but I am always seriously impressed by people who don’t just give up after such major set backs in life.

Cheers Matt!  :hug:

Going pretty well thanks.

This year’s climbing really illustrated to me how weak and inflexible my lower body still is. Just getting shut down by really pretty easy routes with high rockovers, bridging or any kind of sustained legwork so right now is all about training that.

It’s quite easy as time goes on to think “why am I still so weak?” and “why didn’t I just train this earlier?”but you have to remind yourself that it’s a project like restoring an old car or something- you want to fix all the bits but you can only do so much at a time and you have to fix some things before you can even start looking at the others!

Regaining flexibility’s just been a slow drip more than anything though. As I’ve got fitter I’m less often too knackered to make myself stretch in the evening and lots of the ROM seems to come back over time and as I do more exercises- everything is reciprocal really.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 30, 2021, 03:48:22 pm
Given Matt's post, I assume you had a pretty bad injury. Training flexibility as an adult is hard even without an injury! I couldn't touch my toes 18 months ago, then having never done any flexibility/mobility training whatsoever, I decided to make it a big part of my life (hopefully forever). I've made it part of my night time routine and I aim to do 30-60 minutes of full body work every single day. Inevitably this usually ends up being 3-4 days a week due to life, but when you get into the swing of it, it's not so bad, and I definitely feel a lot better for it in a morning!

Progress is absolutely glacial though, for me. I seem to be able to just about maintain current flexibility on 4 days a week, and more is needed to make any progress. Less and I start losing it again! At the beginning of the year I aimed to get my side splits, but pushing too hard leads to minor injuries and it seems i'm not going to get there in time. Maybe next Christmas instead!

Moral of the story - if touching your toes was a goal for you (it was for me at one point) then well done as progress is hard for anyone. It seems any stretching is good and more is better.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Steve R on November 30, 2021, 05:08:48 pm
Read a rule of thumb somewhere that the number of good sessions per week you stretch should be at least the same as the number of decades you've been around.  ie. 3 sessions pw if you're in your 30s, 4 if you're in your 40s, etc. Sounds about right.  I know it's worth it, not just for climbing but to generally feel better/younger too.  Still don't do enough though...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 30, 2021, 05:17:27 pm
I must have had a hard paper round as a kid then if I need 4 sessions per week to maintain  :wavecry:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on November 30, 2021, 05:44:56 pm
I touched my toes just now.  ;D

Woohoo!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 30, 2021, 05:50:32 pm
Read a rule of thumb somewhere that the number of good sessions per week you stretch should be at least the same as the number of decades you've been around.  ie. 3 sessions pw if you're in your 30s, 4 if you're in your 40s, etc. Sounds about right.  I know it's worth it, not just for climbing but to generally feel better/younger too.  Still don't do enough though...

I’m not looking forward to being 90 then.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on November 30, 2021, 05:52:32 pm
Given Matt's post, I assume you had a pretty bad injury.

understatement...

So, just over a month ago I took a 25m groundfall :o while lowering off a route in Spain due to an incomprehensible not-retying-the-safety-knot error (entirely my fault).

Somehow I lived but the litany of injuries is;

-Left femur in three pieces (long since bolted back together in a similar manner to Will’s above)

-Unstable pelvis fracture; sacrum principally but I had a pubic bone dislocation as a result (had a operation to pin this back together as well- I would not wish this injury on anyone)

-Various rib, sternum & vertebrae breakages, all of which stayed in place but I have to wear a hellishly uncomfortable back brace to keep it all stable for another two weeks

- Sprained left thumb which has been, somewhat understandably, overlooked but I’m now realising might be quite bad

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on November 30, 2021, 06:16:53 pm
Crikey
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 30, 2021, 11:05:46 pm
Crikey is right, a sprained thumb can be a real bummer ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on November 30, 2021, 11:56:16 pm
 :lol: That was before I had the thumb x-rayed and found that I’d actually pulverised one of the little carpal bones  :'( I was over optimistic about how long I’d have to wear that fucking brace too and yet to learn the full extent of some of those other injuries, let alone all the cool proper names for them. That was only a month after the accident itself, a day after I’d come out of hospital I think. Madness to think about now.

Check your knots everyone. It’s not great having to start climbing again from scratch and still be working on recovering years later (amongst all the other downsides) but the far more likely outcomes of my fuckup all involve death or some form of paralysis so I still just feel like I’m lucky to be here every day.

Anyway, like Liam I aim to do a fairly comprehensive upper and lower body stretching routine every evening before bed (takes about 20 minutes) and will actually complete the whole lot about 5 days most weeks.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 01, 2021, 09:12:34 am
Damn, properly smashed yourself up there! I'm glad your making a strong recovery. Tell me to do one if you don't want to think/talk about the experience, but while falling do you remember getting any typical near-death experience effects e.g. slow motion, light at the end of the tunnel, etc? That stuff fascinates me, but my own experiences have only ever been chemically induced  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 01, 2021, 11:57:26 am
No I didn’t experience anything like that until the drugs kicked in.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 01, 2021, 12:56:45 pm
There was the 'maybe it's for the best' moment though?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on December 01, 2021, 02:55:44 pm
Yeah, it was a near death experience for sure (the entire first week or so after the accident was a near death experience really…) and it was absolutely terrible but the accident itself and immediate aftermath wasn’t accompanied by any trippy “follow the light”/ life-flashing-before-your-eyes-type things at all.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Anoesis on December 01, 2021, 03:20:52 pm
Good luck with the rehab…I took a ground fall in May this year but landing like an upturned beatle onto a large boulder.  Nothing that could be done and no-ones fault, the rock basically exploded after the gear was weighted.
The consequences for me were broken vertebrae and an ankle, so months spent ‘walking’around like Robocop in a brace.  The worst part was effectively being waterboarded through a face mask as waves broke over the bow of the lifeboat.  The crew were fantastic but the sea was rough…..on the plus side I’m now climbing again as part of the rehab….
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 01, 2021, 04:10:28 pm
Oof, where did that happen?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Anoesis on December 01, 2021, 10:02:09 pm
South Wales near Bridgend…..I wasn’t even supposed to be climbing that day either 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 03, 2021, 06:00:56 am
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51721814080_78045b9cf7_c.jpg)

Having broken my large lamp the other day, I set off for Broomgrove with a couple of cycle lights, and discovered it in all it's festive splendour.
1.30a.m. this morning. Then it started snowing.
First chilblains of the winter  ;)

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 03, 2021, 12:52:43 pm
Are chillblains even a thing anymore? When I was little I was always told by my gran not to put cold hands too near a heater or else you will get them. But have never got them in spite of spending a lot of time out in the cold
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on December 03, 2021, 02:51:27 pm
I get chilblains pretty badly (probably a package deal with my Raynauds).  If I let my feet get too cold, for a week or so afterwards my toes can feel like someone's blow-torched them (and the swelling makes rock shoes even more uncomfortable than usual).
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 03, 2021, 03:10:44 pm
Are chillblains even a thing anymore? When I was little I was always told by my gran not to put cold hands too near a heater or else you will get them. But have never got them in spite of spending a lot of time out in the cold

Big resurgence of chill-blain like things due to the 'rona. I had them in April / May last year for the first time ever, 6 weeks or so after getting the virus the first time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 03, 2021, 03:53:29 pm
OK guess I'm lucky. Partner has Raynaulds, not fun
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 03, 2021, 04:49:35 pm
Are chillblains even a thing anymore? When I was little I was always told by my gran not to put cold hands too near a heater or else you will get them. But have never got them in spite of spending a lot of time out in the cold

Clearly this is what grannies say  ;D

Along with things like "Mind you don't step on Casius' feet. He'll bite" .. and other horrors.

Edit. chillblains are a thing. Get them fairly often after cramming feet into small boots when it's cold.

"I get chilblains pretty badly (probably a package deal with my Raynauds).  If I let my feet get too cold, for a week or so afterwards my toes can feel like someone's blow-torched them (and the swelling makes rock shoes even more uncomfortable than usual)." - me too. And wrt Raynauds.

I should just say, Broomgrove is such a flippin great little wall. It was a bit glassy last night, but really sweet too. There's often an owl in residence during the night.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on December 08, 2021, 09:34:36 am
I had one of those board sessions last night. Tune out now if you don't want all the scintillating detail.

It felt pretty humid to start with but the usual warm ups were feeling good, with some little inklings of that 'locked in' feeling you get. I didn't want to get too excited as it doesn't always translate on to the harder stuff. FInished off the warm up going a bit harder than usual which was another good sign.

On to the projects. Number 1 was probably the hardest of the bunch, 4 moves between some tasty little crimps with slippery feet that are hard to stick. I'd done some good links on this before but never felt close to sticking move 3 from the start and have never felt reliable on move 2. To be honest I didn't feel great on it to start with, the first move is kinda fiddly to get just right. After a few abortive attempts I remember thinking, right, let's stop messing around and just squeeze the shit out of it. I had a couple of goes getting to move 3, then the magic go where I hit move 3 absolutely perfectly and smashed the relatively easy move 4 to the top. Just getting this done would have been a great session. 8-10 sessions over 8 weeks on this one.

Next up was a pinchy number a friend set a couple of weeks ago. Probably the easiest of the bunch but it didn't feel that close last time I was on it. I'd been faffing around trying to get a foot to stick on this big move, but harnessing the board power I just sacked the feet off and held the move by squeezing the shit out of the pinches. One wild move for the top and another one bites the dust. 2 sessions on this one.

Last up was a vintage project from the early days of the board. A pretty steady top but with a savage shouldery first move where you make a long move left from a good edge to gaston another decent edge, but end up really spanned out and have to seriously engage your shoulder to make it stick. Previously I'd tickled the left hand edge but never felt close to engaging on it. Today was different. The gaston edge was a rock solid crimp, the holds closer together, the feet like little incut jugs and the top a lap of victory. 10-12 sessions on this one over 6 months.

The psyche is real  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Liamhutch89 on December 08, 2021, 09:56:04 am
Good job Remus, I enjoyed the detail. I reckon the 3rd problem would be up my street.

I bet most of us have climbed harder stuff on our boards than we have outside!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on December 08, 2021, 12:58:36 pm
Sick gains Remus, good effort
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on December 08, 2021, 01:50:27 pm
Thanks both, it was a solo session so good to share the psyche  8)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: spidermonkey09 on December 08, 2021, 03:14:41 pm
Those spiritual floaty board sessions are ridiculous. I have no idea how I've done some stuff on the board, I sometimes try it a few days later and cant touch it. I'm convinced I've done my hardest problems on a board!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 09, 2021, 05:17:24 am
Love it Remus.

Love the detail too, and can really visualise the moves.
Great psyche  :great:  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on December 09, 2021, 11:44:37 am
I remember thinking, right, let's stop messing around and just squeeze the shit out of it.

If only you could bottle that feeling  :wub:.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 10, 2021, 10:30:02 am
Because we don’t have a “Well, isn’t that nice!” thread…

Thirty years ago, there were no walls or training facilities in the Portsmouth area, so when the weather denied us our Wednesday afternoon, mad dash, pilgrimage to Swanage or Portland, or even the Pompey sea walls; we’d cram as many of us in Steve’s knackered Vauxhall and race to Guildford, the nearest wall. Most of those trips meant arriving back on base in the wee hours, to grab four hours before turn to and a following day of misery, half asleep in a classroom.

So, we managed to persuade the CO to let us build a a training wall in a casement of one of the old, derelict, Napoleonic, forts, inside the base. We called it “The Wall in the Hole”. That experience led directly to Rueben and Steve going on to build Alien Rock, in Edinburgh and much later, my premature attempt to retire by building my own wall in Torquay.


This week, having finally returned to uniform, I went back to that base, for the first time in 25 years. The wall is still there (bits of it, at least) and somebody is obviously still training in there. Amazingly, the signs we made, out of scrap wood, whilst impaired by polyester resin fumes, are still in the window and on the door.

(https://i.ibb.co/mSPVwhd/6347-B736-FB25-40-AD-8-C0-D-67-F13037-BBE6.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/qp3qwCz/8-D8-ED2-B5-AC95-4-E83-AE45-7-F8110-F110-DF.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/F4QB0HS/BA504-BAD-2712-4897-9268-0-FB3-BA8-C19-AF.jpg)

(https://i.ibb.co/09h60M6/43-C2-A028-A01-E-4-A98-82-E7-444-B665-B1615.jpg)

How it looked bitd:

(https://i.ibb.co/JnyXjSf/CFD27595-3917-459-D-AB29-D088-C8-FD6580.jpg)

Bolt ons we’re hard to come by, then, so we usually just moulded our own onto the ply:

(https://i.ibb.co/YjzPVvx/F3-B54118-7488-4-BAA-9-CB3-32-E99-BDD7-DA9.jpg)

Maturity wasn’t really a thing then:

(https://i.ibb.co/m8NtvYQ/2-A0-C0-F52-A838-46-FA-8-D38-74-B70-E2-A277-F.jpg)



Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on December 10, 2021, 11:08:41 am
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dontfollowme on December 10, 2021, 11:11:45 am
Brilliant
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: danm on December 10, 2021, 01:08:17 pm
So good!

This has taken me back to a summer over 30 years ago now, before I went off to Uni. My stepdad was setting up an outdoor centre near Epping Forest for inner city kids etc. I helped his YTS trainees build a wall on the end of a barn, the gable end had 2 top rope lines  rigged off scaffolding with a small platform for abseiling, but for me and the others who were just discovering climbing for ourselves, the real meat was the traverse wall. We carved every hold out of wood as bolts-ons either didn't exist or were unknown to us. I used all my savings to buy a chalkbag and some Scarpa Rockmaster boots, and spent every dry evening and lunchtime working the traverse until I could lap it. Happy days!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on December 10, 2021, 04:00:09 pm
Ha! Pretty sure I remember that hold (trips over from Southampton in the late 90s)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 10, 2021, 08:58:09 pm
Hey, you look good in uniform OMM  ;D

You could build a board in one of the damage control simulators at Excellent, to vary the steepness. Or maybe on the outside so it doesn't get wet..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on December 10, 2021, 09:14:54 pm
Great stuff!

Scary that even now, 20 years later, I can visualise the inside layout of that standard-issue military locker in your third pic.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 10, 2021, 09:46:39 pm
Great stuff!

Scary that even now, 20 years later, I can visualise the inside layout of that standard-issue military locker in your third pic.
Yup.
And the little lockable shelf/cubby, that represented the entirety of your privacy, except during rounds, every week, or when the Reggies (MPs) we’re in the block, or when your Div Chief wanted to look, or when you left your keys visible, or any other time, really.

I’m in Excellent from Sunday, doing damage control/FF/SS/Getting gassed/Jumping in the sea improperly dressed etc.

Duma, what brought you to the grottiest of Gosport grots?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 10, 2021, 11:17:53 pm
Excellent indeed Matt.

Can we have some photos of you improperly dressed too?  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 13, 2021, 09:24:34 am
to Guildford, the nearest wall.

Was our regular thursday night trip when i lived in Surrey in 1989. Remember getting through the roof of the widest part of the "lobster pot" was the big challenge.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 13, 2021, 01:39:45 pm
Excellent indeed Matt.

Can we have some photos of you improperly dressed too?  ;D

We’re not allowed to jump in the water!
Apparently, there was a fatality, after a certain sailor (civilian MOD employee) managed to lie about his age, FOR 15  YEARS!
Rather than 60 years old, he was in fact, 75 and suffered a heart attack on dropping into the Solent (8⁰C) from the 3mtr board and we’re now all banned from actually doing the Sea Survival course until better “safeguards” are in place.

The story of how he faked his age, to avoid mandatory retirement, is quite impressive, mind you. An amazing achievement in the 21st century.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on December 13, 2021, 01:42:18 pm
to Guildford, the nearest wall.

Was our regular thursday night trip when i lived in Surrey in 1989. Remember getting through the roof of the widest part of the "lobster pot" was the big challenge.

It would have been ‘89 when I started frequenting it. I remember very little though.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on December 14, 2021, 08:57:09 am
I may have a photo somewhere.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 18, 2021, 07:12:50 am
I'd always thought that Gasherbrumgrove meant "Shining Wall" (it actually means Beautiful Mountain). Regardless, I thought I'd managed to return from the west face of IV unscathed. Managed to keep my toes.

#nodeathzonerequired

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51754877630_5a198aa859_h.jpg)

..chilblains are a thing. Haven't put rock boots on since.

Sorry, they're disgusting.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: moose on December 18, 2021, 08:39:00 am
I empathise - in recent weeks, I've been seriously tempted to buy some ludicrously oversize rock shoes that I can wear with chilblains.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on December 18, 2021, 09:37:17 am
I empathise - in recent weeks, I've been seriously tempted to buy some ludicrously oversize rock shoes that I can wear with chilblains.

So, chillblains. An historic relic that has resurfaced due to the old 'rona. I wonder if they were *always*some kind of circulation damage caused by some other corona type virus in the past?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on January 12, 2022, 10:24:59 pm
After injuring my A2 three months ago, today I managed my “if I do this I’ll have a good session at Kilnsey” warm up on the board for the first time since then 😁
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: BID on January 14, 2022, 05:00:22 pm
Finally did Bumlog Millionaire. Only took 20 hours total. Soft 7A  ;)
Over to you Wellsy :D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on January 14, 2022, 06:05:30 pm
Well done!

 :'(
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 14, 2022, 07:03:18 pm
C'mon Wellsy you can't be at 20 hours quite yet....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on January 14, 2022, 08:51:59 pm
He had a couple of sessions without me so I'm probably around 16  :'(

Tbh I find it so oppressive psychologically. To go backwards on it which has never happened before, to spend multiple sessions just smashing my face into the same move over and over without success, which I've done before and since seemingly lost, and know that every other move on the problem I've done 50 times... on something that's at my limit, in kind of my anti-style (highly technical dynamic slap)... I dunno. I don't want to try it again for a bit. I'll pick it up again, and I definitely do want to do it (literally I'd trade anything else I've done to have done Bumlog Millionaire), and I WILL do it, but it's knocked the psyche out of me for a while.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on January 14, 2022, 08:52:41 pm
I know whinge whinge moan pull your socks up get it done etc

But anyway fuck all that, well done BID very solid effort, hard earned
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on January 14, 2022, 09:37:20 pm
Reminds me of a period of about 3 months when I was about 18 or 19, in which I completely lost the knack of dirt jumping (bmx/trail bike stuff).

I could get over the jumps, but the harder I tried to get more air, the flatter and lower I went. It got ludicrous for a while, where I was basically just going almost level from takeoff to landing.

Then one day I stopped thinking about it and suddenly it clicked. Never did land that mythical 360 though....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Liamhutch89 on January 14, 2022, 11:44:07 pm
Reminds me of a period of about 3 months when I was about 18 or 19, in which I completely lost the knack of dirt jumping (bmx/trail bike stuff).

I could get over the jumps, but the harder I tried to get more air, the flatter and lower I went. It got ludicrous for a while, where I was basically just going almost level from takeoff to landing.

Then one day I stopped thinking about it and suddenly it clicked. Never did land that mythical 360 though....

I could land some pretty big tricks back in my day, but never really got to grips with the humble barspin! I had a session where I finally thought i'd grasped them, even landing truckdrivers (360 barspins) in that same session, but then never again!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 15, 2022, 08:24:43 am
He had a couple of sessions without me so I'm probably around 16  :'(

Tbh I find it so oppressive psychologically. To go backwards on it which has never happened before, to spend multiple sessions just smashing my face into the same move over and over without success, which I've done before and since seemingly lost, and know that every other move on the problem I've done 50 times... on something that's at my limit, in kind of my anti-style (highly technical dynamic slap)... I dunno. I don't want to try it again for a bit. I'll pick it up again, and I definitely do want to do it (literally I'd trade anything else I've done to have done Bumlog Millionaire), and I WILL do it, but it's knocked the psyche out of me for a while.

Dude, it’s just climbing a bit of rock.

It’s important but it’s gotta be fun too! Sometimes you sneak something that should of taken ages quickly, sometimes you gotta grind things out.

Such is the way, especially on luck-based scrittle...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on January 15, 2022, 08:33:25 am
Tbf I think he's going about it the right way, gotta take a break when the psyche isn't there otherwise you'll just grind yourself down doing something that's bringing no enjoyment.

Have a few weeks off, come back and do it first go, swear off gritstone for the rest of your life because it's ridiculous. It's a tried and tested formula.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duncan campbell on January 15, 2022, 11:15:26 am
haha yeah im not saying don't have a break.

just dont think of it as psychologically oppressive. its meant to be fun after all. plus it will make you more likely to choke if you start letting it get to you!

breaks a are very good idea. used it this summer to keep things fresh on my projects.

I guess what i meant by grinding things out was; sometimes things take longer than you think they should. and sometimes things go quicker than they should. its why climbing is so fun.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 15, 2022, 11:54:06 am
He had a couple of sessions without me so I'm probably around 16  :'(

Tbh I find it so oppressive psychologically. To go backwards on it which has never happened before, to spend multiple sessions just smashing my face into the same move over and over without success, which I've done before and since seemingly lost, and know that every other move on the problem I've done 50 times... on something that's at my limit, in kind of my anti-style (highly technical dynamic slap)... I dunno. I don't want to try it again for a bit. I'll pick it up again, and I definitely do want to do it (literally I'd trade anything else I've done to have done Bumlog Millionaire), and I WILL do it, but it's knocked the psyche out of me for a while.

Sounds grim. Maybe you should start redpointing The Oak this summer...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on January 15, 2022, 12:20:00 pm
He had a couple of sessions without me so I'm probably around 16  :'(

Tbh I find it so oppressive psychologically. To go backwards on it which has never happened before, to spend multiple sessions just smashing my face into the same move over and over without success, which I've done before and since seemingly lost, and know that every other move on the problem I've done 50 times... on something that's at my limit, in kind of my anti-style (highly technical dynamic slap)... I dunno. I don't want to try it again for a bit. I'll pick it up again, and I definitely do want to do it (literally I'd trade anything else I've done to have done Bumlog Millionaire), and I WILL do it, but it's knocked the psyche out of me for a while.

Sounds grim. Maybe you should start redpointing The Oak this summer...
Spring and autumn. Got to get those connies just right  ;)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on January 15, 2022, 01:09:06 pm
I'd trade anything else I've done to have done Bumlog Millionaire

I can’t think of another problem name that would make this statement funnier.  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on January 15, 2022, 01:55:10 pm
He had a couple of sessions without me so I'm probably around 16  :'(

Tbh I find it so oppressive psychologically. To go backwards on it which has never happened before, to spend multiple sessions just smashing my face into the same move over and over without success, which I've done before and since seemingly lost, and know that every other move on the problem I've done 50 times... on something that's at my limit, in kind of my anti-style (highly technical dynamic slap)... I dunno. I don't want to try it again for a bit. I'll pick it up again, and I definitely do want to do it (literally I'd trade anything else I've done to have done Bumlog Millionaire), and I WILL do it, but it's knocked the psyche out of me for a while.

Sounds grim. Maybe you should start redpointing The Oak this summer...

This joke has been made, to my deep consternation. A running theme

I think the break is a good idea. There's always other stuff. And it'll go it's just a case of wanting to enjoy it, rather than suffer it.

The name is excellent comedy material yes  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hongkongstuey on January 25, 2022, 04:59:09 am
This one had been giving me grief over multiple sessions that included falling stupidly on the last move on my third session and then regressing so much on the next few sessions that i almost just bagged it in altogether. Super happy to have got it in the bag, especially during an about 1-hour weather window on a rainy day and during a period of gym closures - HK has locked them down again due to omicron - just as well as i'd have gone inside otherwise...

https://youtu.be/sq30dHwhf34
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on January 29, 2022, 11:10:19 am
Looks a bit eliminate but very cool, nice one sneaking it in. And what a lovely location!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on February 04, 2022, 06:56:50 pm
One of the young Eritrean refugees we welcomed into our home in December 2016, the one who has become a de facto member of our family, passed his US citizenship test today. Another milestone. He should graduate with his degree this summer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on February 27, 2022, 09:49:20 pm
Climbing in the sunshine  :dance1:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 27, 2022, 09:59:40 pm
It's so good isn't it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 27, 2022, 11:25:53 pm
Onwards and into the Light, my friends.



(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51907255577_e0979697b4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n5SfEn)


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51908315403_831b181828_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n5XFHe)


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51908315398_26482aafc6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n5XFH9)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 28, 2022, 07:31:37 am
Memory fails, Wharncliffe?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on February 28, 2022, 08:41:11 am
Memory fails, Wharncliffe?
Is not Lancashire Golden Tower?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 28, 2022, 09:31:28 am
Memory fails, Wharncliffe?
Is not Lancashire Golden Tower?

The very same. Blue skies, warm sun on the rock, an arm-exploding pump. I could have wept.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 28, 2022, 10:01:52 am
Ah OK. Never been, so don't feel bad that I don't recognise it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 02, 2022, 03:19:46 pm
After 6 years, and thousands upon thousands of hours of effort by a team of over 100 extraordinary local volunteers, this morning we sent our guidebook to the printers.
This has been such a long project, with so much work at the crags and at our desks, that this day has been some abstract future notion. When you're standing under Langcliffe with the camera, waiting for the cloud cover to make the light right for your topo photo, or when you're trogging up to some crag to try again to get action photos in nice light, or up late checking and editing scripts, you can't think of the end because it's so far away. You just have get on with the next thing that needs doing, and when that's done you get on with the next thing.

Slowly, but surely, it has taken shape and now I can only hope that we've done justice to the efforts of all the contributors who have made it happen, and that it brings joy to those who use it. I suppose I ought to say what it covers. 608 pages, full to the brim with the best trad, sport, and bouldering in Northumberland, Yorkshire Limestone, Yorkshire Gritstone, Lancashire, and the North York Moors.

YYFY!

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51913891233_df2845377a_o.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 02, 2022, 03:56:02 pm
Looks great, well done all involved
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: UnkArl on March 02, 2022, 06:29:58 pm
Respect!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 02, 2022, 06:52:33 pm
A good YYFY that, well done.

Psyched for you to move on to the imminent new Yorkshire Limestone guide now!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Neil F on March 02, 2022, 07:04:14 pm
Wow!  Fantastic Will.

Congratulations on getting over the line.  I can't wait to see the end result...

Neil
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: bolehillbilly on March 02, 2022, 07:27:11 pm
Great stuff Will and team, well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on March 02, 2022, 07:44:31 pm
Great effort Will et al, can't wait to get my grubby little hands on it, excited already having only seen the cover!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: scragrock on March 02, 2022, 07:48:22 pm
Well done Sir :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on March 02, 2022, 07:55:46 pm
After 6 years, and thousands upon thousands of hours of effort by a team of over 100 extraordinary local volunteers, this morning we sent our guidebook to the printers.
This has been such a long project, with so much work at the crags and at our desks, that this day has been some abstract future notion. When you're standing under Langcliffe with the camera, waiting for the cloud cover to make the light right for your topo photo, or when you're trogging up to some crag to try again to get action photos in nice light, or up late checking and editing scripts, you can't think of the end because it's so far away. You just have get on with the next thing that needs doing, and when that's done you get on with the next thing.

Slowly, but surely, it has taken shape and now I can only hope that we've done justice to the efforts of all the contributors who have made it happen, and that it brings joy to those who use it. I suppose I ought to say what it covers. 608 pages, full to the brim with the best trad, sport, and bouldering in Northumberland, Yorkshire Limestone, Yorkshire Gritstone, Lancashire, and the North York Moors.

YYFY!

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51913891233_df2845377a_o.jpg)

Congratulations, really looking forward to owning it
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Liamhutch89 on March 02, 2022, 08:35:46 pm
Congratulations! Can we expect some juicy downgrades? My money's on karjala for the biggest
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 03, 2022, 12:27:13 am
Thanks everyone.
There are one or two downgrades but certainly lots more upgrades!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 03, 2022, 02:49:37 am
Congratulations Will (and team), that's a very fine effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: steveri on March 03, 2022, 10:44:52 am
Kudos, looking forward to it!
That looks like at least 10 sales  :yes:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2022, 01:09:25 pm
http://www.wired-guides.com/#about

Quote
Wired guidebooks aim to document the whole of the UK describing the very best – world-class – rock climbing these beautiful green islands have to offer.

Be keen to know what the forward plan is for this..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 03, 2022, 01:57:48 pm
The total market for guidebooks hasn't changed hugely, but a greater and greater share of that market goes to select guides (and also apps now I guess). When you consider the amount of effort that goes into producing a guide, there are a number of definitives which might very well dwindle out as not enough people are interested in buying them.

Wired is something which the definitive-producing clubs and organisations formed together. It's a co-operative that allows them to produce select guides under a common brand and hopefully reclaim a bit of that market share (when it comes to selling books a recognisable brand is hugely important), from which the proceeds can go back into climbing-related projects such as producing definitives.

To say that Wired aims to document the whole of the UK is a bit of a stretch in my view, but most of the UK's major areas are covered in definitives produced by Wired members and thus you'd expect them to feature in a Wired select.

Scottish Rock is just slightly bigger than Northern Rock (by 8 pages I think, I was livid when I found out  :)) and will be out soon; Welsh Rock is in production at the moment though I'm not sure how far along they are.

Having access to that network of experienced people was really useful. Steve Scott of the FRCC was particularly helpful, as were Ken Taylor and Al Davis who did a ridiculous amount of proof-reading. They're all FRCC members but they all mucked in and did a tonne of work for our book.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2022, 02:16:33 pm
Thanks for the info, I look forward to the Scottish one. The SMC one and the Latter Guides never really hit the mark; especially as they seemed to think there was nothing in Scotland East of Pass of Ballater and North of Clova worth mentioning.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 03, 2022, 02:23:19 pm
Great effort Will.

Quote
Wired is something which the definitive-producing clubs and organisations formed together. It's a co-operative that allows them to produce select guides under a common brand and hopefully reclaim a bit of that market share (when it comes to selling books a recognisable brand is hugely important), from which the proceeds can go back into climbing-related projects such as producing definitives.

I didn't know that; thanks for clarifying.

PS Ken is a legend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 03, 2022, 03:04:27 pm
I didn't know that.

I went to my first meeting in early 2016 and told them I had never heard of them or their two books (Lakes and Pembroke at that time). We really need to do something about advertising!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2022, 03:23:46 pm
and maybe spruce up the website with some sample pages and "coming soon"?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 03, 2022, 03:24:37 pm
Sponsor a bit of wall at walls across the country, and get a 10ft version of the front cover painted on.
Consultancy fee 1 pain choc
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Alex-the-Alex on March 03, 2022, 03:39:03 pm
Awesome effort Will! And great cover shot (white rose, whiiiiite rose!). I hope there is Let's Get Wired launch party to launch it?

Similarly excited for the Scottish one, especially if it contains select bouldering too!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Bradders on March 03, 2022, 06:59:11 pm
Excellent news Will et Al, well done!!

Perhaps you could all now help out with the Yorkshire definitive bouldering guide, what with all your new spare time  ;D I've made lots of progress since we last spoke (in my dreams)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: duncan on March 07, 2022, 07:50:39 pm
The total market for guidebooks hasn't changed hugely, but a greater and greater share of that market goes to select guides (and also apps now I guess). When you consider the amount of effort that goes into producing a guide, there are a number of definitives which might very well dwindle out as not enough people are interested in buying them.

Wired is something which the definitive-producing clubs and organisations formed together. It's a co-operative that allows them to produce select guides under a common brand and hopefully reclaim a bit of that market share (when it comes to selling books a recognisable brand is hugely important), from which the proceeds can go back into climbing-related projects such as producing definitives.

To say that Wired aims to document the whole of the UK is a bit of a stretch in my view, but most of the UK's major areas are covered in definitives produced by Wired members and thus you'd expect them to feature in a Wired select.

Scottish Rock is just slightly bigger than Northern Rock (by 8 pages I think, I was livid when I found out  :)) and will be out soon; Welsh Rock is in production at the moment though I'm not sure how far along they are.

Having access to that network of experienced people was really useful. Steve Scott of the FRCC was particularly helpful, as were Ken Taylor and Al Davis who did a ridiculous amount of proof-reading. They're all FRCC members but they all mucked in and did a tonne of work for our book.

Feedback from a potential customer:

This clearly represents a huge effort and if it is half as good as the Pembroke guide it will be a great piece of work. As others have hinted, Wired currently have a low profile amongst the Great British Climbing Public. I had a quick peek at the website but I am none the wiser as to what crags Northern Rock will cover. Northumberland, Yorkshire Limestone, Yorkshire Gritstone, Lancashire, and the North York Moors is still pretty vague. I'm not suggesting a <over-exposed brand goes here> social media onslaught but perhaps just a tiny proportion of the effort of writing might go into drawing the attention of the non-cognoscenti...
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 07, 2022, 07:53:51 pm
I'm working on it!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on March 08, 2022, 10:00:41 am
I nearly posted something similar, but put my ignorance down to me being out of the loop. I think you should put Wired's laudable raison d'etre front and centre, appreciate you'd probably prefer the guide to be judged on its merits but it does differentiate Wired from some notable competition.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on March 08, 2022, 01:23:07 pm
I nearly posted something similar, but put my ignorance down to me being out of the loop. I think you should put Wired's laudable raison d'etre front and centre, appreciate you'd probably prefer the guide to be judged on its merits but it does differentiate Wired from some notable competition.

I agree that I (the group, really) need to push the Wired brand more. I will try and work this into advertising material but Northern Rock has got a challenge in that, as Duncan says, the coverage is not immediately obvious from the title. Books like Pembroke Rock, Lake District Rock, Yorkshire Grit, etc have coverage that is fairly self-evident even from looking at the front cover. We don't have that, so the most important thing to convey is the coverage and the fact that all three disciplines are represented. I don't want to say too much more or post my sample spreads (which include the contents page, Duncan) because I need to pay Shark some money to have a post in the sponsors section.

BUT, at the risk of incurring the wrath of our Dear Leader, I will say that if you'd like to get the book you can pre-order now and get 15% off with free postage. RRP is £36.95; available for a limited time only at £31.40.
 :ang: :ang: :ang:

https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/?pub=Wired
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on March 08, 2022, 01:43:55 pm
Maybe what you actually need is some Influencers, I hear they're all the rage.

Bouldering bobat expose on Wired?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 08, 2022, 03:49:50 pm
 :sick: :shit: :sick: :shit: :sick:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: dunnyg on March 08, 2022, 03:51:47 pm
If you pay my petrol to font and back, I will not wear a t-shirt to almscliff promoting the book.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on March 08, 2022, 04:12:22 pm
Perhaps you could sponsor a Premier League team?

(https://cdn-vox--cdn-com.cdn.ampproject.org/i/s/cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/5osLf6JaTx2LeZhqb0DjUBWum5Y=/0x0:3000x2013/1400x933/filters:focal(1264x362:1744x842):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/65248079/96450739.jpg.0.jpg)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on March 28, 2022, 10:31:56 am
A good hospital appointment today. Achilles is healing well, out of the space boot 2 weeks early! Going home to have a bath and plan my first solo adventure in a car. Early days so no climbing, being silly, or even particularly off piste. A taste of freedom.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on April 06, 2022, 10:05:48 am
Re-did my max hang benchmark yesterday. Previous was 163% BW hang 9 weeks ago.

Yesterday this weight felt easy and I managed to do 170% okay and nearly 172.5% (jury is out as to whether I failed on or just before the timer went).

No idea what’s good Progression would be over this time but it felt good to know the training has paid off.

Only downer was a minor tweak (not pulley) which I’m hoping will settle down in a few days. 10 days off now until we have a day in Font and then move down to Margalef!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Liamhutch89 on April 06, 2022, 10:14:44 am
Congrats, I dream of being able to hang that much one day. Easily enough finger strength for well above font 8A!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on April 06, 2022, 10:30:07 am
Congrats, I dream of being able to hang that much one day. Easily enough finger strength for well above font 8A!

That was on 2 arm and a slightly bigger edge than most would use, but I’m psyched!

I’m keen to put it to use on routes and Boulder mileage. As much as I’d love to tick some harder boulders I’ve a habit of injuring myself on them. Something to avoid at the start of a 9 month trip  :chair:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on April 06, 2022, 11:11:59 pm
What size edge did you go for, and how long do you tend to hang for your max hang tests? Great effort BTW very strong
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on April 06, 2022, 11:24:24 pm
10 days off now until we have a day in Font and then move down to Margalef!

10 days off is going to ruin your skin, I'd keep doing something in the run up
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: teestub on April 07, 2022, 08:11:49 am

10 days off is going to ruin your skin, I'd keep doing something in the run up

Just to co-sign on this, save the 10 days off for the end of the trip! 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on April 10, 2022, 08:58:43 am
What size edge did you go for, and how long do you tend to hang for your max hang tests? Great effort BTW very strong

That was 7 seconds on a 23-25mm as I did my original testing on something similar.

Though I’ve been doing my weekly sessions with 6 reps 10 second hangs on a 20mm edge.

Those are including BW by the way. So hanging +70%, not +170%
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: James Malloch on April 10, 2022, 09:01:26 am

10 days off is going to ruin your skin, I'd keep doing something in the run up

Just to co-sign on this, save the 10 days off for the end of the trip!

It’s more enforced, though we did managed a board session at a friends yesterday and might squeeze something in enroute to Dover tomorrow.

But then we’re visiting family. But it’s looking more like 5-6 off now. Good news is the tweak I got has gone  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on April 10, 2022, 02:27:02 pm
First 8a in my 50's and first 8a at the Tor. Psyched.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Ru on April 10, 2022, 10:51:09 pm
Well done Andy!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on April 11, 2022, 07:14:56 am
Fine effort!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carliios on April 11, 2022, 11:05:54 am
8 sessions later and I was finally able to finish Electrical Storm. Not a path for anyone my height (5’6)  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on April 14, 2022, 09:53:32 pm
A minor YYFY possibly, but our youngest (11) after years of showing no interest in climbing had been to the wall with me on Tuesday and Thursday and we've sorted him a membership as he's super psyched to keep going.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on April 30, 2022, 09:21:56 pm
I’ve been really incapacitated all year with long covid. The only thing I can do that is remotely applicable to climbing is stretching, so I’m very pleased that I have managed a stretching session every day this month. Minimum five minutes to count as a “session” but mostly longer than that.

I’ve also managed to do 20% more walking according to my phone, but I’ve had a couple of runs of bad days in the last few weeks so might have slightly overdone it and maybe a 10% increase would have been better. Still, I’m spending less time in bed and according to my partner I’m looking less ill.

Great to have some small wins in what is otherwise quite a thankless experience.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on April 30, 2022, 09:30:47 pm
That's really good to read.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on April 30, 2022, 09:33:33 pm
Good news Sean, really sorry covid has hit you and yours so hard. Easy to forget sometimes how bad it can be, especially from the perspective of someone who's been much luckier with the whole thing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 01, 2022, 09:15:22 am
Glad to hear you are making some progress Sean. The difference between no progress and some progress is massive. Obviously post Covid conditions are novel, but post viral conditions generally are not new. Having had ME which lasted for a number of years, you have my deepest sympathy. It’s awful. I got better eventually and it sounds like you are inching your way towards recovery. I hope that arrives soon.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on May 01, 2022, 03:57:33 pm
Glad to hear you are making some progress Sean. The difference between no progress and some progress is massive. Obviously post Covid conditions are novel, but post viral conditions generally are not new. Having had ME which lasted for a number of years, you have my deepest sympathy. It’s awful. I got better eventually and it sounds like you are inching your way towards recovery. I hope that arrives soon.

I can't tell you how encouraging it is to hear of someone with a very similar disease getting better and returning to climbing. Makes me feel much better and more hopeful.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 01, 2022, 04:27:02 pm
Glad to hear you're beginning to see some signs of progress Sean, and really hope it continues. Best wishes to you and everyone suffering similarly.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 01, 2022, 05:56:24 pm
Glad to hear you are making some progress Sean. The difference between no progress and some progress is massive. Obviously post Covid conditions are novel, but post viral conditions generally are not new. Having had ME which lasted for a number of years, you have my deepest sympathy. It’s awful. I got better eventually and it sounds like you are inching your way towards recovery. I hope that arrives soon.

I can't tell you how encouraging it is to hear of someone with a very similar disease getting better and returning to climbing. Makes me feel much better and more hopeful.

You might not say that if you saw me climb!  :)   Progressively, I found the ratio of activity vs payback/ recuperation grew in my favour. It took time to get there, but life did return to normal. No special formula, just (enforced) patience. You may get back on your feet quicker than I did of course, and an extended period experiencing post exercise malaise is pretty common in post viral conditions. Hang in there.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on May 08, 2022, 12:12:29 pm
Today for the first time in a few months I did some slightly harder problems to the top of the climbing wall, and jumped from the top with a perfectly safe and fine landing. No knee issues or anything. Feels like a great milestone for recovery :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on May 08, 2022, 01:56:13 pm
Nice one!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on May 14, 2022, 07:50:38 pm
Just boarded a ferry in Dunkirk bound for Dover. First time home in 3 years and first time for more than a few days in 5. Feeling surprisingly emotional!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 14, 2022, 08:13:30 pm
Welcome back, have a good one.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on May 15, 2022, 01:09:11 pm
Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: CapitalistPunter on May 15, 2022, 03:45:02 pm
Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing :)

Effort wad
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carliios on May 15, 2022, 04:33:06 pm
Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing :)

Effort! They always say you come back from an injury stronger!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: PeteHukb on May 21, 2022, 04:14:24 pm
I always enjoy reading everyone's minor victories on here so thought I'd finally share one of my own. These generally work better with context so please forgive the lengthy preamble.

I climbed one 8a on sport back in 2014, and then since then I've had two children (via the wife, wisely) and a succession of pretty significant wrist, finger and elbow injuries have that interfered with consistent training and climbing. Obviously at various points I've considered sacking off training/projecting in favour of pootling up E1s at the weekend, as that would definitely still be a worthwhile and happy climbing existence; but I do love the grind of training and the feeling of trying hard.

This last winter I finally had an entire winter of strength training without an injury (other than the standard longstanding medial epicondylitis) and came into spring actually feeling strong (for me). Time is still limited for climbing and training though, and I'm only getting out on the lime once every 2-3 weeks, so it was far from a given that I'd actually climb anything much. But I made a plan, stuck to it, and yesterday climbed Henry's Route (a 7c/+ under-rated burlfest at Malham) on my second session this year, it having eluded me several times over the last four years. It's the first 7c I've climbed since 2018 (or, less convincingly, the first 7c+ since 2016), so maybe proper 7c+ (MFA or Dreamtime) even 8a are realistic objectives for later in the year. Even if not, it's great to tick a bit of a nemesis route!

Keep at it, everyone - or sack it off and settle for pootling, it's all climbing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wood FT on May 21, 2022, 04:45:46 pm
Great post. Well done!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Footwork on May 21, 2022, 09:23:25 pm
Nice one Pete!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on May 21, 2022, 09:24:40 pm
Excellent work Pete. Great to hear about strong comebacks. 8a is well within reach.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 21, 2022, 10:24:46 pm
Yes, a reassuring tale, well done.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on May 23, 2022, 12:49:09 pm
If any of you remember my Power Club entries from 2019 (or indeed went climbing with me at that time) when I was really at the sharp end of recovering from my accident you might recall that I was focused on my quest to lead every three-star VS in the Peak.

Although I was ticking them off as late as that December, it was being thoroughly spanked by Flash Wall at Nether Tor on Kinder (after more than an hour of attempting the crux on lead I found that I couldn’t even do it on a top rope…) that made me realise I wouldn’t do them all and I finished the year with six still remaining  :'(

It hasn’t exactly been the focus of my climbing since then but I’ve still been doing them when the opportunity presents itself and this Saturday I led Flash Wall, completing the set :dance1:. Leading a sandbaggy moorland VS  isn’t a big deal for me any more but it’s so satisfying to close that little chapter, reminding myself not just of how much I’ve progressed in my climbing abilities since 2019 but also how much I still love climbing in the same way I did then, when it felt like such a privilege to still be able to do it  ;D.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cowboyhat on May 23, 2022, 12:53:24 pm
A good reminder that its important to get back on things and finish them off.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Neil F on May 23, 2022, 03:32:49 pm
If any of you remember my Power Club entries from 2019 (or indeed went climbing with me at that time) when I was really at the sharp end of recovering from my accident you might recall that I was focused on my quest to lead every three-star VS in the Peak.

I'm afraid I don't remember that, but what a brilliant project!  And a fantastic way to motivate you on the path back from serious injury.

It hasn’t exactly been the focus of my climbing since then but I’ve still been doing them when the opportunity presents itself and this Saturday I led Flash Wall, completing the set :dance1:.

Congratulations, not only on Flash Wall, but the whole set.  How many are there?

I've not led Flash Wall.  I did it with my partner Clare and Martin Boysen in 2016, and we put Clare in to bat  ;D  I thought it was a fantastic pitch, with a big feel.  Finished that day off by following Clare up Moneylender's Crack, which felt even bigger!  Great days...

Neil
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on May 23, 2022, 04:26:50 pm
If any of you remember my Power Club entries from 2019 (or indeed went climbing with me at that time) when I was really at the sharp end of recovering from my accident you might recall that I was focused on my quest to lead every three-star VS in the Peak.

Although I was ticking them off as late as that December, it was being thoroughly spanked by Flash Wall at Nether Tor on Kinder (after more than an hour of attempting the crux on lead I found that I couldn’t even do it on a top rope…) that made me realise I wouldn’t do them all and I finished the year with six still remaining  :'(

It hasn’t exactly been the focus of my climbing since then but I’ve still been doing them when the opportunity presents itself and this Saturday I led Flash Wall, completing the set :dance1:. Leading a sandbaggy moorland VS  isn’t a big deal for me any more but it’s so satisfying to close that little chapter, reminding myself not just of how much I’ve progressed in my climbing abilities since 2019 but also how much I still love climbing in the same way I did then, when it felt like such a privilege to still be able to do it  ;D.

WOOHOOO! Congratulations!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on May 23, 2022, 04:40:04 pm
There are 52 of ‘em Neil. Here’s the full list-

(https://i.ibb.co/cDrK83n/98822-C9-E-C746-462-E-A91-E-8-ECEAFE70-B74.jpg)

My experience of telling people about it is that they assume they’ll have done most of them until they see that! I had 21 I hadn’t led or soloed (some of which I’d seconded) at the start of 2019 so to end the year with only 6 left wasn’t bad, looking back. In terms of capability: difficulty ratio I did some of my hardest leads that year. I was, as a number of this forum’s members will attest, a really slow and cautious leader at the time and would be wobbling up them, cramming in gear in a state of absolute terror  :lol: .

Flash Wall’s a truly great route. Really sustained and with a huge feel as you say. Moneylender’s Crack was also in the plan for Saturday but a kestrel flew out of it as I set off so that will have to wait for another visit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on May 23, 2022, 06:23:42 pm
Big ups to the YYFYers.

Since I've packed in Power Club I have nowhere else to warble on about how great rock climbing is, so here it is.

On Saturday, my friend Penny and I made pilgrimage to the Sacred Place. We warmed up downstairs then ascended to the Hallowed Hall. I went up Free and Easy to put the clips in and the connies were feeling goooooood - complete cloud cover and a breeze. It came time to redpoint and I stepped out over the void. I dispatched the crux and worked my way up the next few moves but found my fingers completely numbed out. I was staring at the two-finger crimp I was pulling on and could see that my fingers were there, just as they should be, but there was no sensation at all. I had to pause and alternate hands to coax some life back into each of them. On I carried, getting rather pumped now, until I managed to scrape through to the good flake-crack that marks the end of the difficult climbing. I rested here, shaking out the pump to make sure I didn't drop the last few easy moves. What a place! 40, 50, 100m off the ground? Slap bang in the middle of the upper reaches of the Cove, the whole of Airedale at your feet, the river bubbling from the rock and running away in search of the mighty Humber. Then, a break in the cloud cover, because God does exist and he lives at Malham, and I basked in glorious sunshine. Absolute nectar, that moment.

Then I was treated to holding the ropes for Penny as she went up Duck Dive, her first of the grade. As is Penny's wont, she forgot almost all of what she'd figured out on her dogging go. She threw between the holds, each move clearly close to the limit of her power. She did this again and again and, somehow, she just didn't fall off. What a fight! What a gutsy effort! My hero.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on May 23, 2022, 06:55:22 pm
Lovely Will.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 23, 2022, 06:59:21 pm
Top effort Cheque. I guess you secretly bagged Puttrell's Cleft on Minge Wall when we weren't looking....
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on May 23, 2022, 11:38:11 pm
And nice one Mike, I really enjoyed following your VS quest (despite knowing none of the routes), and more generally found your attitude towards your accident, injury, and rehab; and then how you found such enjoyment in climbing through your recovery, really inspiring.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 24, 2022, 06:15:16 am
I certainly remember the original Flash Wall post Mike. Great to see this coming full circle.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: petejh on May 24, 2022, 10:26:44 am
Ticklists sometimes get grief for encouraging 'consuming' but they can be such brilliant motivational tools when used to record progress from one place to another. Nice one cheque.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Aussiegav on June 19, 2022, 10:42:27 pm
So grateful for the people offered to belay me today. Went to do some routes on a shunt. But these kind people gave me a belay as I was on my own.
Totally made my day.  Thank goodness there’s people like that in climbing.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on July 04, 2022, 02:23:03 pm
Yay! I don't have breast cancer - got the results of a biopsy from last week back earlier today (charming consultant rang me directly. The whole process has been very smooth and efficient).

NNFN - horrible events here in Copenhagen yesterday evening, only the second (non-terrorist) mass-shooting in the country's history.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on July 04, 2022, 02:38:42 pm
Phew! Great news, Andy. Not so much the other stuff but no reason you shouldn't enjoy the relief.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: steveri on July 04, 2022, 02:57:39 pm
Happy for that Andy!
Denmark put on a beautiful show for the Tour ...and then this. At least these things are incredibly rare and 'thoughts and prayers' don't need to be reeled out every other week.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on July 05, 2022, 08:05:43 pm
Today I have done 100 days of stretching in a row despite being sick with long covid. Minimum session is 5 mins to get the tick, but I usually do nearer 10, maximum seems to be 30 mins. There were definitely times that I'd happily have given up, bearing in mind that some days I am too sick to leave the house, but I just about managed to get it done. This seems to be just the right amount of exercise that I can cope with and it actually has some use for climbing, double win!

I can now put my whole palm flat on the floor from a front fold, can sometimes get my calves to touch the floor in a butterfly stretch and have added 30cms to my side splits. Well chuffed.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on July 05, 2022, 09:44:46 pm
 :strongbench: <<< imagine that with less one armed benching and more stretching.

Good effort Sean, well stuck with it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 06, 2022, 08:43:33 am
Today I have done 100 days of stretching in a row despite being sick with long covid. Minimum session is 5 mins to get the tick, but I usually do nearer 10, maximum seems to be 30 mins. There were definitely times that I'd happily have given up, bearing in mind that some days I am too sick to leave the house, but I just about managed to get it done. This seems to be just the right amount of exercise that I can cope with and it actually has some use for climbing, double win!

I can now put my whole palm flat on the floor from a front fold, can sometimes get my calves to touch the floor in a butterfly stretch and have added 30cms to my side splits. Well chuffed.

Good effort Sean!

Inspiring stuff there
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 06, 2022, 09:24:23 am
100 days is quite a stretch :) Good job.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: edshakey on July 11, 2022, 12:24:47 pm
Ticked off a 2022 goal this weekend - completed the Snowdonia Trail Marathon. 27.5 miles / 5300ft, including a trip up to the Finger Stone just below Yr Wyddfa. Completed in around 6:33, and in the top 30% of starters - a bit better than usual for me in races. Also first marathon!

Basically ditched climbing goals for half the year to concentrate on this so really wanted to actually manage it. We had the really clear, sunny weather that most of the country had this weekend, which might be my fault for wishing for summit views - definitely regretted that! Despite the relentless sun and heat, I'm thrilled with the time - the weather definitely added many minutes overall. Seem to climb better than most around me, followed by losing some of those places on the descents - I'm still yet to work out how to run fast down steep loose paths hmmm

Going to leave the long stuff for a while and get back into climbing, maybe just speed work for running. Will come up with a new goal for next year, I've fortunately not been put off yet  ;D
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Carliios on July 16, 2022, 09:13:07 am
Finally bagged cave problem at tor  :dance1: took bloody ages to work a top section sequence and turns out I just needed to flag a bit harder. Definitely one of my favourite lines I’ve done on peak lime! Onto the sitter!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on July 28, 2022, 11:41:30 am
Nice to catch up with recent YYFYs! Good work people  ;D

I have slowly managed to up my running after a slow and injury ridden start to the year and wanted to share a very modest run I had yesterday which was a YYFY moment for me. Having been regularly getting out twice a week for the last month, mostly very slowly, I forgot my watch yesterday and just went for a run (not without tracking as used my phone) but this meant I wasn't concerned with pace and distance and just enjoyed being out. I managed just over 7km at 5.30kpm which is the both the furthest and the fastest I have run this year. This was one of those rare runs where everything mostly felt easy and best of all, my knee has not complained thus far!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 28, 2022, 11:57:15 am
I think you mean mpk! :)  Otherwise, well done, good effort! A bit of cooler weather definitely helps, felt much more enjoyable on Monday, before I fucked my knee.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: fatneck on July 28, 2022, 02:10:29 pm
Yeah grumpy knees are a right shitter. How is it feeling today?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 28, 2022, 02:11:37 pm
Knackered. Got physio tomorrow.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 05, 2022, 06:05:41 pm
Yay! I don't have breast cancer - got the results of a biopsy from last week back earlier today (charming consultant rang me directly. The whole process has been very smooth and efficient).

NNFN - horrible events here in Copenhagen yesterday evening, only the second (non-terrorist) mass-shooting in the country's history.

Very glad to hear this about your biopsy and amazed and sad to hear the latter, which I had not heard at all.

I have been at sea, for most of the last four months. I was actually really not enjoying it at all. Desperately under funded, understaffed and over committed/tasked. A ship fresh out of refit, that was in a worse state than any I’d served on in 32 years at sea and an organisation with morale in a deeper trough than the Mariana trench.
Whilst I quite enjoyed reliving my youth on some crazy runs ashore etc, overall I was in a bad place by the time we arrived in Bahrain.

Then, life did that thing that strains my Atheism, again. The moment I picked up a signal, as we neared shore, I received a WhatsApp from an old colleague; wanting to know where I was, how much notice I needed to give and how quickly I could join his team.

Anyway, it wasn’t quite that simple, but agreed terms yesterday and fly to Dubai on Monday to sign contracts as “Technical and Engineering Director” reporting direct to the CEO, for Romeo Marine L.L.C., a fledgling yard, building Mega yachts; with one hull almost completed (ready to fit out) and the second keel being laid in three weeks. The first time I’ve been able to insist on such generous leave too (at the expense of salary, to be fair, but…), four months per year. Almost a part time job!

All coupled with me falling off a damn engine and the CEO going down with Covid.

Bizarrely, having started work these last two days, the simple act of sitting down an doing maths (calculating hull characteristics and powering/shafting requirements etc), has very nearly returned me to pre-widower levels of good humour. I had honestly given up on returning to work at this level.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 05, 2022, 07:25:25 pm
Wow Matt, that sounds like quite the rollercoaster! But congratulations. It must feel good and more than a little disorienting.

I have one of my own - about an hour ago we had final confirmation that we've bought an apartment.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on August 05, 2022, 10:38:09 pm
Knackered. Got physio tomorrow.

Great news both of you.. I had a triage with medical aid physio, and seems like I was just overreacting to the knee pain, one boulder session, 1 20km walk and 3 runs this week and it feels fine. Might even get to the starting line of a running event this year.
.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on August 05, 2022, 11:17:30 pm
Started climbing again. It felt good.
Full info for those interested is in the blog pile
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on August 06, 2022, 10:11:13 am
Congrats Hosey! Looks like a grand day out was had.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on August 06, 2022, 01:17:35 pm
Much giggling and laughter. It's great being weak, so much more to experience
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sheavi on August 06, 2022, 03:01:59 pm
Started climbing again. It felt good.
Full info for those interested is in the blog pile

That's great to hear.  Glad the recovery has gone well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on August 06, 2022, 03:33:59 pm
Started climbing again. It felt good.
Full info for those interested is in the blog pile

That's great to hear.  Glad the recovery has gone well.

Yep, still nervous, but apart from being thicker and easier to tire, it's not much different from pre rupture.

How is your Achilles doing? Better I hope?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sheavi on August 07, 2022, 01:37:19 pm
Started climbing again. It felt good.
Full info for those interested is in the blog pile

That's great to hear.  Glad the recovery has gone well.

Yep, still nervous, but apart from being thicker and easier to tire, it's not much different from pre rupture.

How is your Achilles doing? Better I hope?

Much better this time around thanks.  Boot officially off next Friday but been weaning myself off the last week. Fingers crossed this time!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Andy F on August 14, 2022, 07:09:07 pm
I did a Trad route, the first proper one this millennium! Okay, it was a soft E1 but nice to know that the gear placing ability is still there. Yes I placed too much gear, yes I got stupidly pumped and yes I was a little scared, but genuinely it was a fabulous experience. Thanks for pushing me to do it Fiend.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on August 14, 2022, 07:49:58 pm
Whoop whoop. :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 14, 2022, 07:58:06 pm
 :dance1:  :lol:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: lagerstarfish on August 15, 2022, 05:47:13 pm
Much better this time around thanks.  Boot officially off next Friday but been weaning myself off the last week. Fingers crossed this time!

How long till you can come surfskating?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on August 16, 2022, 10:45:07 am
Non climbing related but last night got tickets for German prog rock behemoth Amon Duul II
https://youtu.be/9LU5EdBJgyI
Last saw them live 50 years ago and they shaped my musical taste forever.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on August 16, 2022, 02:43:58 pm
Non climbing related but last night got tickets for German prog rock behemoth Amon Duul II
https://youtu.be/9LU5EdBJgyI
Last saw them live 50 years ago and they shaped my musical taste forever.
My climbing partner back in the 1970’s was a big fan. I did buy an album but I doubt I would recognise it these days.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on August 16, 2022, 04:37:54 pm
Weighed in under 78kg today (77.8 ) for the first time since 2018. ~5kg lighter than 10 weeks ago  :punk:  :boxing:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on September 01, 2022, 03:31:54 pm
I feel like I have exited the tunnel with my Achilles rupture. I can hop up an down stairs solely on the treacherous limb, and have been able to drop off the (indoor) bouldering wall in a controlled manner with hands about 4m without I'll effect.
6 months off has left me a little weaker, as I intentionally avoided dabbling, but ancient gnarliness ( and underachieving) has meant I've only dropped 3 french grades in my lead onsight, and about 3 in my font.

Adventure awaits
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on September 01, 2022, 03:34:42 pm
Excellent news hosey!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sheavi on September 01, 2022, 04:48:39 pm
Great news Hosey - well done
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on September 20, 2022, 05:31:29 pm
Led my first E1 since my accident on Sunday  ;D , Sniffer Dog at the Ravenstones.

It’s taken almost four and a half years but onsight* trad’s a tough old game  ;)

*if we’re being pedantic it was “flashed after watching your mate climb it earlier in the day” in this case
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 20, 2022, 06:33:01 pm
From 'lucky to be alive' to 'extreme leader again' is a well good effort Mike  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: deacon on September 20, 2022, 06:51:52 pm
Led my first E1 since my accident on Sunday  ;D , Sniffer Dog at the Ravenstones.

It’s taken almost four and a half years but onsight* trad’s a tough old game  ;)

*if we’re being pedantic it was “flashed after watching your mate climb it earlier in the day” in this case

Pissed it too! You had plenty in reserve.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on September 20, 2022, 08:47:07 pm
 :hug:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Hoseyb on September 20, 2022, 09:36:47 pm
Nice one!
Have you considered Elder Crack?
I seem to remember it was protected okay and would be right up your alley.
Seem to remember it's a lot more chilled than many E1 offwidths
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on September 29, 2022, 02:49:48 pm
As of Wednesday this week I have done six months of daily stretching. It started out as the only training type activity I could do when sick, and that’s still part of it, but it’s also just a really good way of slowly nursing my fucked up nervous system back to health. I’d recommend it whatever though, feels pretty good.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 29, 2022, 03:05:55 pm
That's a long stretch! :) Well done Sean, something I really neglect, should do a lot more.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: battery on September 29, 2022, 08:14:01 pm
Good effort, I admire your dedication
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 29, 2022, 08:34:47 pm
 :punk:

I did some good stretching errr ummmm last Thursday  :-[
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on November 16, 2022, 09:19:52 am
Managed to sneak up my first 8A on sandstone yesterday  :great:

Lovely techy line on slopers requiring lots of body tension. I was a little stumped about the crux initially and couldn't hold tension on the left hand sloper due to being very spanned out, but then found a tiny two finger jam in the seam which ended up working well. Still nearly came off the 7A+ second half after a smear popped!

Really pleased with this one as I'd have had no chance on it last year but the past few months of concentrating more on strength seem to be paying off  :)

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClBBvmtIzuw/
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on November 16, 2022, 09:28:30 am
Nice one Mischa. This is in no way a knockdown or intending to cast doubt, but, just from watching the video, that's one of those problems that if someone said its was a Font6A in Font I wouldn't have questioned it. Just goes to show how impossible armchair grading from a video is!

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on November 16, 2022, 10:13:53 am
Nice one Mischa. This is in no way a knockdown or intending to cast doubt, but, just from watching the video, that's one of those problems that if someone said its was a Font6A in Font I wouldn't have questioned it. Just goes to show how impossible armchair grading from a video is!

Yeah funnily I was saying to a mate yesterday that if it was maybe 10-15 degrees less overhanging it would be a brilliant 6A! The seam itself overhangs around 30-35 degrees.

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2022, 10:51:20 am
Nice, looks cool, whereabouts?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on November 16, 2022, 12:35:02 pm
Nice, looks cool, whereabouts?

It's at Angelstein in the Calw area.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2022, 01:32:13 pm
Danke.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on November 16, 2022, 02:14:12 pm
Danke.

Blackblocs is the guidebook. Are you localish? I'm 1hr away.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on November 16, 2022, 02:23:34 pm
Nowhere near! Just thought it might be font or if it was somewhere i had never heard of. Seems the latter..
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 07, 2023, 09:36:56 pm
After 3ish years of trying, I managed a 7c first go today.

(Hipotermia in Chulilla)

Satisfying fight and good to do it here after a pretty much written off trip last year
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 07, 2023, 09:45:22 pm
Good effort! Aren't you supposed to be injured or something??
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on February 07, 2023, 09:55:39 pm
Mega! Chunky one too.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fultonius on February 07, 2023, 09:59:30 pm
 :great:  Inspiring. It's always been one of my bucket list goals. Maybe this year.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on February 08, 2023, 09:09:14 am
Nice! It has some hard moves too! Maybe try the nearby Nibelungalos too, easier moves in the same style!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Duma on February 08, 2023, 12:28:21 pm
Thanks all!
Matt, elbow is still very crunchy, but doesn't seem to be triggered by vertish stuff, so there's a fair amount of stuff here for me to try hard on.
jwi, I aim for the ones with hard moves - I have terrible fitness and it hopefully means better rests and less sustained!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on February 08, 2023, 08:50:18 pm
Good stuff, keep verting!!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: webbo on February 28, 2023, 06:00:49 pm
Climbed on my board today  :dance1: A day short of 5 weeks since getting a new hip.
I hope the missus doesn’t read this.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on February 28, 2023, 06:16:00 pm
hip hooray
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 01, 2023, 10:28:23 am
Nice one Webbo! (We won't tell the missus  :ninja: )
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: hongkongstuey on March 07, 2023, 05:33:24 am
been using my 'not allowed to climb yet' time to explore random hillsides in HK and found this the other day - about 5 m high and practically begging me to break the rules... Should give quite a nice line all the way from a sit start and up the steep side of the flying arete

hopefully the HK summer doesn't start too early and there's time to clean and bag it once i'm allowed to climb again and before conditions vanish...

(https://hongkongclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/IMG_9955.jpg)

have also found a few entirely new areas well worthy of development so looks like it's gonna be a busy few months cleaning and prepping stuff  :2thumbsup:
 
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 07, 2023, 08:13:30 am
That's a mad bit of rock. Almost like one of those bits you would doodle.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on March 08, 2023, 08:59:59 am
We are moving to Barcelona in September. I am not sure it is YYFY or NNFN, but objectively it has to be the best major city in Europe for climbing, except possibly Nice or Athens?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 08, 2023, 09:09:47 am
What's a major city?

Climbing aside, must be a fantastic city to live in. I loved it when I went.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on March 08, 2023, 10:00:28 am
What's a major city?

Climbing aside, must be a fantastic city to live in. I loved it when I went.

One rank above a First Sergeant city.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on March 08, 2023, 10:59:38 am
LOL. Technically rank goes from Captain to Major, but still funny.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on March 08, 2023, 11:02:21 am
What's a major city?

Climbing aside, must be a fantastic city to live in. I loved it when I went.
In general, a way to dismiss places like Briançon, or even smaller cities like Pobla de Segur etc that are clearly some of the best places for year round sport climbing but does not offer much in terms of reasonably payed jobs etc
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on March 08, 2023, 11:22:20 am
LOL. Technically rank goes from Captain to Major, but still funny.

I went and extra googled it before hand so I could be less wrong whilst still knowing deep in my heart that I would indeed be wrong.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: MischaHY on March 22, 2023, 09:46:32 am
First 7C flash yesterday (https://www.instagram.com/p/CqFYenOIKPZ/)  :great: "Lords of the Boards" in Bad Liebenzell (Black Forest). Thought it would be a multi-session project based on what I'd heard from others so was very pleasantly surprised.

Heading to Font on Saturday so this is a good sign that things are ticking over well. Any recommendations for things there in a similar style/difficulty? (Crimps, tech, body tension). Highball suggestions also welcome!  :)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 03, 2023, 05:25:29 pm
Lots of just glorious swimming recently - three days at the weekend, today, hopefully tomorrow.

The water is still fairly cold; 7C at the weekend, 8C today, but having swum through the winter (and there were some grim days) I feel really acclimatised. The water feels almost comfortable and I can begin to swim a bit further, 160 strokes today. Honestly, I think I might like this temp best for its combination of invigoration and all the pleasure of being in the water.

So, yup, it's confirmed: I've become a cold water swimming bore.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on May 03, 2023, 06:14:56 pm
Maybe you'll end up looking like Chris Hemsworth

https://www.insider.com/chris-hemsworth-swam-arctic-benefits-cold-therapy-at-home-2022-11

(Chris says hi).

Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on May 03, 2023, 06:25:49 pm
Maybe? There's no maybe about it.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: jwi on May 03, 2023, 06:31:00 pm
Mr. Hemsworth should consider to stop misusing steroids if he wants to live longer.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on May 03, 2023, 07:25:19 pm
7C at the weekend, 8C today,

Quite the improvement!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on May 03, 2023, 10:05:35 pm
Can't wait for the Youtube video on that "INSANE 7C TO 8C IN A DAY GRADE JUMP"
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Yossarian on June 27, 2023, 10:26:49 pm
Being deliberately cryptic here as I might soon have to up my discretion game. But this is a valuable lesson in life sometimes throwing serendipitous wonders at you, especially when you’ve spent a lot of time wondering whether it can get much shittier. From the late 90s till I met my now ex wife, I had a major crush on a Hollywood actress, about whom I spent / wasted a lot of time (in the way that non-serious daydreamers like me are apt to do) musing over what it might be like to date her one day - someone completely unattainable who I was convinced was the most beautiful woman in the world. Well, thanks to dating app technology and some well-obscured photos, it turns out that the person I’ve been having sporadic phone calls with over the past month is the same person*. She even phoned me up on Saturday to ask how my session at the wall went before we launched into a discussion about boilers. I have no idea if romance will blossom or not, and I don’t really care as the whole thing is so hilariously improbable. Either way, along with my sleepwalking auto-defenestration story I’m going to win every dinner party anecdote competition for life.

*This is not uncharacteristic. I spent five minutes standing in a farm yard last January talking about the size of horses’ hoofs with a man (whilst my son fed his horse a carrot) before realising that I was talking to Paul McCartney.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Johnny Brown on June 28, 2023, 08:22:16 am
Which was nice?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on June 28, 2023, 10:13:36 am
PBd my backsquat

A poverty 110kgs but happy with all progress given that I started squatting in Feb on sub 90kgs with a fucked knee!

Aim of 130kgs this year feels maybe doable?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: cheque on June 28, 2023, 10:18:51 am
From the late 90s till I met my now ex wife, I had a major crush on a Hollywood actress, about whom I spent / wasted a lot of time (in the way that non-serious daydreamers like me are apt to do) musing over what it might be like to date her one day - someone completely unattainable who I was convinced was the most beautiful woman in the world. Well, thanks to dating app technology and some well-obscured photos, it turns out that the person I’ve been having sporadic phone calls with over the past month is the same person*. She even phoned me up on Saturday to ask how my session at the wall went before we launched into a discussion about boilers. I have no idea if romance will blossom or not, and I don’t really care as the whole thing is so hilariously improbable. Either way, along with my sleepwalking auto-defenestration story I’m going to win every dinner party anecdote competition for life.

https://youtu.be/X6NPyCMt_oc
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on June 28, 2023, 10:25:02 am
She even phoned me up on Saturday to ask how my session at the wall went before we launched into a discussion about boilers.

I like riddles. Is it Glenn Close?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on July 05, 2023, 08:34:08 am
First evening surf in ages. Clean waves, good rides, mellow vibes. Got out the water a bit before 10 as arms were in tatters, but others said they got out just before 11 as it was getting a bit too dark.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: seankenny on August 09, 2023, 10:26:15 pm
Despite being sick with long covid I have as of today stretched 500 days in a row. Quite a few of those days I was too unwell to leave the house but I still got some form of stretching done. My sessions aren’t exactly long (I can’t manage much) but even so I am considerably more flexible than when I started. Consistency pays, who knew?!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 10, 2023, 08:42:24 am
That’s impressive Sean  :punk:

Hope your recovery progresses well from here.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: slab_happy on August 17, 2023, 06:11:12 pm
Actually got out and did some trad!

Owing to spending much of this year quite ill (in a surprise twist, it was my physical health that turned out to be a worse trashfire than my mental health), I haven't done any since last year.

But today I finally got out, bumbled up some VDiffs and established that I can still tie a figure-of eight and vaguely remember what the bits of metal hanging off my harness are for.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on August 17, 2023, 08:02:49 pm
It’s the way forward  :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: sherlock on August 17, 2023, 09:28:37 pm
Actually got out and did some trad!

Owing to spending much of this year quite ill (in a surprise twist, it was my physical health that turned out to be a worse trashfire than my mental health), I haven't done any since last year.

But today I finally got out, bumbled up some VDiffs and established that I can still tie a figure-of eight and vaguely remember what the bits of metal hanging off my harness are for.
:great:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on August 18, 2023, 09:11:15 am
Trad_happy  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on September 17, 2023, 08:37:10 am
I managed to do Adrenochrome at Lulworth on Wednesday. I’ve dabbled on it for years but never made much of an impression, and whenever I’ve seen people on it before I’ve always thought of it as something that’s out of my league, or at least something that’d require a lot of work. To stand on top after a few days going ground up this year (plus the 8 sessions over the last 8 years) felt like a highlight of my climbing life.

The first hard move is a dyno which is not something I’m very good at, but a friend showed me some amazing toe-hook-catch beta which seems to work really well for my height. Still, it adds a bit of jeopardy to every attempt before you’ve even gotten into the hard stuff.

My high point from previous years was the next crux which is a long move to some good jugs. Usually you’d go left hand but I’ve never managed to get this to work for me. I rolled the dice a bit and used a very wobbly left hand undercut (you’re not too high at this point), opening up the opportunity to try the sustained upper section.

The top half is incredible. Big moves on some slopers, pockets and edges, all the while the ever increasing height tickling at the back of your mind as the pump builds. Then before you know it you’re at the lip! And you’re pumped! Fuck! I’ve seen people bin it here. Please don’t bin it here. But you’re on slopers, the clock isn’t ticking, it’s about to crash down to zero. But what’s that…a jug to the right…GO! A momentary reprieve, breath. One more move, please god give me one more move to get over the lip.

Usually I’m pretty quiet when topping out. Not this time.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 17, 2023, 08:55:02 am
That’s a nice tick!   :clap2:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 17, 2023, 09:04:29 am
Brilliant!

How does ground up projecting work on DWS? Do you need a million pairs of shoes or are you climbing in wet ones? Do you have a dryable chalk bag? How many goes a day? Is it noticeably harder to get psyched when you're climbing in redpointing temperatures?
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on September 17, 2023, 09:12:39 am
Nice one Remus that sounds like quite a journey!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: remus on September 17, 2023, 09:36:32 am
Brilliant!

How does ground up projecting work on DWS? Do you need a million pairs of shoes or are you climbing in wet ones? Do you have a dryable chalk bag? How many goes a day? Is it noticeably harder to get psyched when you're climbing in redpointing temperatures?

It's quite route and location dependent but basically you need a lot of shoes. I think I had about 10 or 12 pairs with me for the week? Probably only used 5 or 6 pairs in the end but good to have some spares as it's nice to go for a proper burn in a totally dry pair. If it's warm they can dry out pretty quick but mine were taking a couple of days. You can climb in wet shoes but it's a bit of a gamble as you can make the holds wet.

Chalk bag tech is usually the same, but last year a friend of mine started making these dws chalk bags that dry super quickly https://www.instagram.com/p/Cw2BtYUNT6c/ Now I just take one of these. A quick towel off after you've gone in and it's good to go in 15 mins.

Goes per day just depends on the route really. Adrenochrome is pretty pumpy, think I managed 3 goes the day before I did it? Same as sport redpointing really.

With the temps, DWS is definitely a warm weather sport in the UK. Probably a combo of the routes generally being steep on relatively good holds (so you don't need crisp conditions), trying stuff ground up means that realistically you're climbing below your limit and as soon as you go in the sea warming up quickly feels like a bigger priority.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: abarro81 on September 17, 2023, 11:53:50 am
Nice one Remus!
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Paul B on September 17, 2023, 01:30:32 pm
Nice one Remus!  :great:

It's always impressive seeing people really going for it when DWS rather than climbing like a pencil.

At Diablo (probably >10yrs ago now) I was using Decathlon swim caps taped around a section of a plastic bottle as a quick drying chalk bag.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: SA Chris on September 17, 2023, 09:43:32 pm
Excellent Remus, always looked like amazing climbing.

I use a standard plastic milk bottle with the top and side cut off, and a bit of string threaded through the handle. Works pretty well.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Will Hunt on September 18, 2023, 09:58:08 am
I got to have one of those rare moments yesterday where you try something and you only just manage it by the skin of your teeth, everything left on the rock. Master Spy Direct. I hadn't quite expected to be under the kosh from so early on, but as soon as you arrive at the pegs you're in the ring. Had to hang around a bit in the first section fidgeting in some gear that wouldn't block the holds then ploughed up through slippy fingerlocks, always seeming to get the next one just as the last was letting go, then falling off just as I laid on for a flatty and caught it. Some more gear then I just about cranked through to the junction with Master Spy feeling dead in the water.
Thank God for the good hold and the jam here and thank God for sport climbing so I could actually get something back! Sure, they're decent holds, but it's still steep! After a couple of false starts at the blind section above my dry mouth desperately rasped down to Josh, "what did you do here?" At this point I'd given up hope of actually finishing the route but was determined to fight the good fight.
With the crucial beta in hand I gurned through the moves, again only just making it to the next hold as the trailing arm was about to give up. Thank God the top out is more positive than Wipe Out!

I lay on the heathery bank at the top wheezing to nobody in particular "I'm pumped. I'm pumped". And I remained pumped for hours after. Beautiful.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Wellsy on December 22, 2023, 12:46:58 pm
This year after losing psyche and gaining it and losing it and gaining it and losing it etc, I found myself neglecting climbing a lot. Especially anything techy that challenged my comfort zone. I basically stopped climbing on circuits and doing anything other than board sessions due to being able to lie to myself and say this is proper training, while really I've just got worse at movement and wondered why I'm struggling on anything but basic crimp pulling.

Well this week I had three indoor sessions where I did challenge myself. Slabs, vert, open handed stuff, insecure climbing. They weren't my best sessions in terms of ability, but they were hugely fun. I felt so excited for the next one each time. I did a huge amount and challenged myself. I felt properly secure in my knee for the first time in ages. And I'm just so psyched again to do this thing that I love. I feel more excited than I have in years to just... climb shit.
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 22, 2023, 08:32:14 pm
Nice one, Wellsy #keepthefaith  :punk:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: andy popp on March 04, 2024, 06:51:54 pm
A niche one, I know, but I also know there are a couple of other people here who like a dip. I've swum in Øresund (strait between Denmark and Sweden) on a regular basis through a second winter. The YYFY isn't really for the getting through the winter but just for finding a physical, outdoors activity I love, that puts me in nature, and that I get a huge amount back from - it's become an important part of daily life. I'm not a swimmer (I'm a rubbish swimmer in fact), I just go swimming. Mostly with a bunch of other ageing Danes.

(https://scontent-cph2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/417463610_10160914347339590_5784310142363334532_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=dd5e9f&_nc_ohc=bc4iYvcg0RoAX_UX0h5&_nc_ht=scontent-cph2-1.xx&cb_e2o_trans=q&oh=00_AfC2oawN4rtvyoKmia9NaP2lpL8Ww0ij5SVCxLl4zZce4Q&oe=65EB611C)
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: Fiend on March 04, 2024, 08:47:55 pm
 :fishing:  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: YYFY!!!
Post by: steveri on March 05, 2024, 07:50:02 am
Excellent, I like a swim but can’t cope with it too cold, so impressive going through winter. I’ve watched enough Wallander/Borgen to feel some sort of connection with that water.

The first couple of times of the year I seem to go back to beginner, with an odd feeling of ‘there’s nothing underneath me’!
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