UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: account_inactive on April 13, 2009, 06:02:51 pm
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From the Copley log:
"My dad returned from the shop and I said ''I'm going to Wales with Scott for 5 days'', he was fine with this and then I started to get excited. I got a lift to the train station and I was away! all within the space of 2 hours. The feeling of ''adventure'' (as some might describe it) felt slightly new but refreshing. At around 8pm that day we set of to Wales, LLandudno to be precise, or actually even more precise, Parisella's Cave"
"Basically.........I slept in a van with Scott and Martin for 5 days in North Wales, I flashed a 7a and did a 7b and got really close on two 7c's. Scott did 3 Font 8a's and one Font8b/V13, which was Malcs Start next to Jerry's Roof, however there has been some people, as usual, doubting that he actually climbed it, so if you are one of those people and you are reading this, you kinda need to just calm down because I saw him do it. All in all, despite being crammed in a van with two oher people and eating porridge without milk or sugar every morning and not having any dinner and waiting all day everyday till the evening to eat again, it was a really awesome trip, my most favourite so far, Wales such a nice place, and I want to go back soon, back to the training for now, after at least 2 days of hardcore resting!"
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Nice one.
Good to see that Liam still considers himself a trustworthy source. :dance1:
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"eating porridge without milk or sugar every morning"
now that is hardcore. proper dry mouth scene.
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Somone should give the lad a 8b+ tick for climbing it without chalk, not one spot of chalk on the top out of Pools. Not even in the pocket. I want to know how long Malcs start took him.
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Is this bull shit? I don't know how someone can struggle on a basic powerful 7c, namely Rock Attrocity but do an 8b in what I guess was a session or two.
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A couple of points to add here:
I was at the cave on their first day, 2 young lads rock up, I don't know who they are. they both try rock atrocity, one lad (who I now know to be Scott) gets half way along it, goes bright red and comes off spent. I think good effort, he'll probably get that in a couple of goes. He then starts trying Louis armstrong and I think, what's he trying this for? its obviously way out of his league, why doesn't he concentrate and tick the cave right of passage classic rock atrocity? He then spends ages trying the slap move to the Lou ferrino ramp, doesn't really get close and tells me he is shit on undercuts. Asks kook for some beta for the other moves at the start but doesn't really seem to be getting anywhere close to them either.
Anyway, I think nothing of this till later when I speak to Doyle and he tells me who the lad that was trying Louis armstrong is and then tells me he told pritch he'd done all the moves on Louis armstrong!
Bearing in mind that pritch left the crag before me and that I hadn't left the cave at all whilst I was there (apart from a quick piss next door) I find all this completely unbelievable.
I've climbed with a lot of 8a and above climbers and they have, even on bad days, burned me off without much trouble. However I was firmly of the understanding that I could probably burn this guy off and I'm no were near climbing font 8a, let alone flashing some and doing some 8b's.
Also the word on the grape vine is that Scott climbed the problem called cable guy and not malc's start although I haven't had this confirmed to me first hand so take that one as rumour.
My first hand experience combined with what a lot of my friends have told me (including one of them seeing him working but not doing the joker!) leads me to only one conclusion that Scott hasn't done these really hard problems he claims to of done. He seems like a nice enough lad and a decent climber although no where near a world class boulderer that his ascents would suggest he is
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Of course the light was too bad for photo's or am I just being a cynical old git?
I do hope so, so let's have a photo of the lad on / past the crux.
Otherwise, I'm afraid the doubters will be in the majority.
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There's ane Xtreme weather warning tonight over Wales...
(http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/jgeist/omg/shitstorm-flyer.jpg)
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A friend of mine was at jerrys with them a few days ago and Scott pointed out what he'd done not even knowing it was Malcs start. He didn't even know what Pool of Bethesda was even though he'd done it. What a load off shit.
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i am just a random italian in love with climbing, and with uk climbing especially.
you know why this scotty thing really pisses me off?
because, i want to believe.
i love climbing monsters, esp the joung guns. they make me happy. i see them climbing and destroying things and this makes me happy because it's a step forward.
so i want to believe to scott, i need it, but every time it's more difficult.
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Indeed, likewise; young climbers, fast repeats, unreal strength are all really invigorating.
Bullshitting little cowards who won't even "man up" and prove the doubters wrong are the very antithesis of this.
If Scott is bullshitting, as is suggested, perhaps he can take up golf where no one really cares f you did kick your ball out of the rough.
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"eating porridge without milk or sugar every morning"
now that is hardcore. proper dry mouth scene.
Actually, not wanting to throw a spanner in the works, but I've often had porridge with just cold water. It's a weird thing to do, but unlike anything else surrounding the current crop of teenage imbeciles (I mean "them lot", not Scott per se), it is feasible.
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To say he did all the moves on Louey Armstrong is absolutely rubbish. Fair play he looked reasonably strong on some of the moves but he didn't manage to do what I would consider to be the easiest moves on it after the crux and I was the last person in the cave that day. However rather than berating him for being a liar someone should probably encourage his friends to keep an eye on him in case he is becoming a fantasist.
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I think its too late for that!
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Apparently word from scott is that he tried to repeat malcs start for the camera but couldnt. However even seeing failing footage would help!
And wales was beautiful this weekend besides all this bullshit.
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Personally i would be happy just to see some evidence of Font 8 strength, and i mean pics and vid.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLhv6juRA8A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLhv6juRA8A)
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ok, dont like to get involved with stuff like this, but i will anyway...
If you can apper in the pass and do malcs start then you will be able to climb through to at least hitting the porthole again, and again, cos this bit aint that hard. Pools is nails but slightly body shape/knacky, I know a guy who did the move to the pocket numerous times before ever ticking his first 8a, so its possible he's telling the truth. The moves on Louey, if you done the move to the ramp, this is pure power and you will be able to do it again. I will chip in 15 pounds for fuel, for his next visit and they can all stay at my house as long as I can come to the crag and witness the fitness. Nobody needs this sort of bullshit, if your real shut them all up if not, train hard and fast cos the pack is hunting you down and shit sticks.
CJD helped me with this dave age 30 and a half
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not wanting to throw a spanner in the works
Too right you won't.....thats my job.
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too true nodder, with help from cjd.
this stinks, but i'm also glad he's coming onto your turf now so you can appreciate what we've had to put up with in and around the peak. just wait till you see him climb. unbelievable is quiet an apt word.
lee, aged 37 last friday
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Personally i would be happy just to see some evidence of Font 8 strength, and i mean pics and vid.
Agreed!!!
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someone should probably encourage his friends to keep an eye on him in case he is becoming a fantasist.
Therein lies the problem really. I can't think of a less reliable bunch of cretins to have fallen in with. Shouldn't Tommy be mentoring him still??
P.S. Percy I hope you're using the spanner to concote yet more gruesome volume contraptions...
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You bunch of cynics. lol
I've seen on RedTips climbing (http://red-tips.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/606632-north-wales-report?page=last) that it's all true: lol
In a recent trip to North Wales, Scott Mclellan climbed 3 Font 8a's,
* Diesel Power
* Sub Society
* Unnamed Problem
And Malc's Start, which is Font 8b / V13, which has had few repeats. All problems are at the Cromlech bouldering in the LLanberris Pass. Scott also tried an un-climbed proect, which comes in from the right and climbs the same top section of 'Malc's Start. He made good progress on it, however he didn't manage to send it.
Liam Copley, Red-Tips site owner flashed Pillbox Original Font 7a, and climbed Clever Beaver Font 7b, both in/near Parisella's Cave. He also got very close to climbing Jerry's Roof and Rock Atrocity, both Font 7c.
lol Stop your whining, for the truth is there!
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Stop your whining, for the truth is there!
....in dense's posts, in this case :thumbsup:
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Someone should post a news article on UKC. How many repeats has Malc's Start had?
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:jaw: is there anything this guy hasnt done?
lol
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is it possible he isnt lying but is retarded and actually climbed malcs start into the cable guy??
I will chip in 15 pounds for fuel, for his next visit and they can all stay at my house as long as I can come to the crag and witness the fitness
cant say fairer than that!! scotty what u waiting for
nodder if i pretend to climb loads of nails shit will u giv me 15 quid and let me stay at yor house ;)
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He deserves kudos for topping out Cable Guy if he did it... Shocking!
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Oh how I have missed the fictional tales of Walt Disneys favourite Wooden nosed Friend!!! and yet here appears another episode to bring amusement............... ;)
He then spends ages trying the slap move to the Lou ferrino ramp, doesn't really get close and tells me he is shit on undercuts.
That will explain how he did Holligan start then..... ;) :shrug:
Can we donate via Paypal to a 'ScottgoestoWalestoprovehisamazingtalentstrengthandsorytellingabilitytothewaitingmassesofukboulderingdoubtersfund'........?????
£10 winging its way from my direction if so....
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I will chip in 15 pounds for fuel, for his next visit and they can all stay at my house as long as I can come to the crag and witness the fitness.
Can we donate via Paypal to a 'ScottSerpicogoestoWalestoprovehisamazingtalentstrengthandsorytellingabilitytothewaitingmassesofukboulderingdoubtersfund'........Huh???
£10 winging its way from my direction if so....
I also flashed the Joker, and I've pissed all Wale's hardest problems. However I could do with a bit of petrol money and a place to doss...
so if the offer still stands, I'd be happy to demonstrate "the fitness".
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perhaps we can get enough money to buy scott a video camera
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or a guidebook.
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Is this bull shit? I don't know how someone can struggle on a basic powerful 7c, namely Rock Attrocity but do an 8b in what I guess was a session or two.
I want to know also. I'm a silly punter who makes half arsed efforts to climb in the cave of late and even I would be spurred on by the fact that dropping the RA match a zillion times would mean that I'm very capable of climbing an 8b in a few sessions. In fact, I think I should adjust my wishlist. Especially after my progress on Walk Away today dropping the break. What a punter!
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Especially after my progress on Walk Away today dropping the break. What a punter!
From the sit-start I assume?
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What do you take me for!? Naturellement!
Talking of that area, I was reminded today of some V1 and 2's that I would pay to watch these up coming youths flash.
Talking of another thing talked about before, I'm fairly sure Cable Guy hasn't had an ascent in as many years judging by a recent attempt to dust it off.
Where's that fucking chinny raccoon when you need him doyle!?
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lee, aged 37 last friday
37? Now who's got a wooden nose? ;)
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Talking of that area, I was reminded today of some V1 and 2's that I would pay to watch these up coming youths flash.
Good point. If any of them claim to have flashed the start of Minion's Way at Brimham then we'll know they're fibbing fo' sho'.
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lee, aged 37 last friday
37? Now who's got a wooden nose? ;)
:thumbsup:
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Daffydd Wyn, dwy'n meddwl. Ond, os ty'n siarad am dense, moi fel 40. Dyw.
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i'm also glad he's coming onto your turf now so you can appreciate what we've had to put up with in and around the peak.
He's just spreading the love.
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Nice to see some straight talking / evidence on this thread and I agree with Dense. It's a good thing that you Welsh boys have now experienced the bullshit first hand so that you know what we're all dealing with here.
Like Nibs, I wanted to believe this stuff when I first heard it. I wondered why everyone was shouting BULLSHIT! so vehemently so I asked a few people. Having heard the weight of evidence against Scott's claims (from sources that I trust and who have no agenda) my position shifted from one of belief with a little doubt to one of 99% doubt with a crumb of belief. Then I saw him climb.
Now it may only be at The Works but I have seen Scott climb on a number of occasions. Bear in mind that I have climbed with many of the best rock climbers in the world and seen the level of power and ability required to climb 8B first hand. I'm willing to state categorically that Scott is nowhere near that level and because of this I am now 100% sure that he is lying about these ascents. Everyone can have an off day but when every day's an off day it means you're shit.
Then there's the way he goes about "doing" things. The modus operandi seems to be the same each time. The first time I met Scott at The Works he was trying a few problems on the training board. He told me that he had done most of them but wasn't bouldering that well as he'd been doing routes recently (I knew he'd just come back from Font but thought "fair enough"). This was supposed to explain his total failure on everything and the fact that he was nowhere near doing the hard (or some of the easier) moves on several 7Cish problems. Again, fair enough, an off day perhaps. I showed him my sequence on a 7C+ which missed out one of the holds and the way Nacho and I had done the crimpy "8A" also missing an intermediate. He was nowhere near doing the individual moves on either of these problems. A few days later, despite showing no improvement in power or ability, he told me he had done both these problems using my sequences. Interesting. When I read about his exploits in the cave it had a familiar ring to it.
Bear in mind I can just about scrape my way up 7C outside on a good day and this lad is claiming to piss problems four grades harder in a session. It simply isn't possible.
There was a lot of stuff said previously about how he doesn't need to prove anything and it's down to the doubters to disprove his claims. Well it's gone too far for that now. He's claiming first ascents, world class flashes, unbelievably fast repeats of hard classic problems and there is no fucking way he has done any of them.
The question we should be asking has gone from being "has he really done these things?" to "why is he making these claims?". I've spoken to Scott a few times and, as everyone says, he seems like a nice lad. So what's going on in his head to make him do this? It's as if it's a need to be recognised, a need for some sort of affirmation. Has he missed the fact that rock climbing is an inclusive sport where you can excel whatever your level is? Where 8B climbers will take enjoyment in helping a mate climb their first 6A and where (healthy competition aside!) everyone wants everyone to do well. You don't become more respected in the climbing community just by bagging big numbers. If you're a twat then everyone will still think you're a twat whatever grade you climb and if you're a sound bloke then the same rules apply.
Some people are getting angry about this stuff and that's a natural reaction. The integrity of the sport is threatened by bullshitters but I don't think it is in this case as it's gone so far that nobody (who matters) believes it. I'm not angry, I'd just like Scott to have a think about why he's doing this, what he hopes to achieve and perhaps realise that this really isn't the way to go about it. Perhaps it's gone too far. He may be inhabiting the same fantasy world as Si O'Bullshit where the lines between reality and nonsense have become blurred. If so then he needs help.
What he certainly doesn't need is encouragement from imbecile hangers on but the fact that these are the people he is reduced to climbing with tells a story.
(http://i41.tinypic.com/5468f8.jpg)
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The question we should be asking has gone from being "has he really done these things?" to "why is he making these claims?".
I think he is on the verge of a major sponsorhip deal with www.red-tips.webs.com (http://www.red-tips.webs.com) and just needs a few more big numbers to clinch it.
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with all this about "is it malcs start, is it cable guy?" etc etc it makes you wonder if when he claimed the Joker flash he'd actually just done Honorary Caley.
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Let's just hope that Scott is just immature and grows out of this rubbish.
Anyway, just to upset those folk that are stuck in the office, I'm off to Curbar in a bit, I might have to sandbag some one on Strawberries again, I don't know why, its like tuerettes annoying yet strangely funny and compelling.
I think what Scott needs is Max Clifford.
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Somebody please print and frame that thread entitled "North Wales Report" on redends.com
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I didn't really get involved with the peak stuff because like Jasper i wouldn't like to doubt someone until i had climbed with them. Well in Wales i got to climb with Scott and that is why i have vehemently scoffed at his claims. We turned up at Pill Box and he didn't look happy. I could see from the road that he couldn't get established on Mr Whippy 7a+. Hmm alarm bells started to ring. He had another go and could barely get his feet off the ledge. I had a redpoint on my project which starts up a tough 7b called Jack Daniels Connection. After Pritch had a go of JD and so did Scott. Now this problem is as basic as they come, a dynamic move on two small holds (scott is meant to be good on small holds). He could barely take his weight off. When you climb with world class climbers they often do things wrong at first on a problem, not knowing what they're doing. But they look fuckin strong often doing things a much harder way. This isn't the case with Scott, he doesn't even look strong (Rockatrocity pretty basic e.g.). He looked like his head was about to explode. All this cable guy/malcs nonsense is typical too. Now this has obviously caused a big furore. I know for a fact that he will read this so come back and prove us all wrong. You don't have to do Malcs start again but you should be able to slap the pocket. I hate this shit cos i was chatting wth Scott and he is ok. This stuff is horrible and needs to be settled one way or another, but there is only one man who can do that.......
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but there is only one man who can do that.......
(http://www.starbase21ok.com/AWest1.gif)
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but there is only one man who can do that.......
(http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=36;type=avatar)
:whistle:
I think he is on the verge of a major sponsorhip deal with www.red-tips.webs.com (http://www.red-tips.webs.com) and just needs a few more big numbers to clinch it.
Well their t-shirt is "an instant classic" :thumbsup: :wank: :yawn:
I might have to sandbag some one on Strawberries again, I don't know why, its like tuerettes annoying yet strangely funny and compelling.
No mostly just annoying, Slopes ;). Wonder if Scott's done it yet...
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your right about this being am unpleasant business doyle, but if your mouth is writing cheque's your body simply can't cash then there is going to be some sort of penalty.
if a bank cheque bounce's then the bank will fine you. it seems the climbing equivalent is a public flogging on the internet
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Talents, skills and accomplishments tend to be exaggerated, sometimes to the point of lying, as they expect others to recognise them as being superior......Preoccupied with fantasies of success, beauty or love..... Has a sense of entitlement....... Sufferers do usually, however, make a good first impression with other people, yet this is not typically maintained
As with all personality disorders, psychotherapy may help sufferers of Narcissistic Personality Disorder, helping them to relate to others in a more positive way. Medication may help stabilise specific symptoms...... If it is suspected that there are no grounds for diagnosing such a personality disorder then Internet Flogging Therapy (IFT) has been shown to be the most reliable way of dealing with a twat
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All the talk of public metaphorical flogging is a bit harsh isn't it?
This is just a young guy who's been claiming fast repeats of hard problems.
It's not like he's claiming to have done amazing new V15/16/17s, or claiming to have done the FAs of well-known projects.
I'm not saying lying is OK (Nibile and Jasper have done a good job of explaining why this kind of stuff is bad all round) but he's still a way off being one of the Great Internet Fantasists of our time.
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It's not like he's claiming to have done amazing new V15/16/17s,
yet
or claiming to have done the FAs of well-known projects.
he has, at least one (sitter to snatch, stanage).
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Note to self - check facts before being charitable.
Thanks dave.
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That redtips site is a joke. Have you seen the people posting on it? A bunch of the biggest twats that climbing has produced in recent years (though I notice Franco is absent). The signatures on the forum are things like JUST FUCKING SOLO IT MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!LLLLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLL.
What a load of jizz.
This Scott stuff is fairly unpleasant. Lets hope the lad doesn't do a Brian Blackwell (who sat next to my brother in English a while back) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brian_Blackwell (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brian_Blackwell)
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There's a red tips film, coming soon, maybe all Scotts footage is being saved for this monster media moment.
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The "North Wales Report" has disappeared from Red-Face.com. Curious. :-\
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Jasper you're quick.
"This topic does not exist or was deleted."
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what intrigues me is who's the most deluded.scott believing hes done these problems or liam who believes he watched him do them.its a pity they don't live in the east riding i could get my nhs trust to pay me to monitor them.
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There's a red tips film, coming soon, maybe all Scotts footage is being saved for this monster media moment.
This DVD will give climbers that aren't necessarily top climbers a chance to show what they can do, however saying that, it may turn out that what you want to be filmed doing might mean that you wont be filmed or in the film.
:shrug:
There's a joke in here somewhere about not being filmed not doing something because you haven't actually done it but my head's fried from all this and I need a drink.
:alky:
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if they want to film people not doing hard problems, or people to not film not doing hard problems, then i'm your man.
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doylo, jim and monolith,
can i claim to have flashed rock atrocity?
i really have been to the cave, you've seen me there.
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yes
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You can have a commendation for doing it in two halves after a 2 day journey with no sleep on a coach! My hero.
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more importantly when you coming back so I can spank you on the grit again :)
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so I can spank you on the grit again
eh? :spank: :spank: :spank:
is there somethiong between you two that we should know about?
(http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:iYuI3HktvbjEwM:http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1164)
jim and Nibs getting all close at the plantation
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No updates on 8a.nu......... :-\
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(http://www.triplepundit.com/bullshit2.jpg)
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I never post on here or any other climbing forums, preferring to keep a low profile and quietly get on with sieging in the cave and on orme routes.
However, this post has struck a raw nerve with me.
Having spent thousands of hours over the last 13 years ticking my way through my orme wish list, I have had and continue to have amazing experiences on the Ormes both through my own climbing and thought that of local friends, beasts and visitors. I've witnessed the power, the glory and the tears as projects fall and last moves are dropped. I know how it feels to bleed and sweat my way through cave test pieces. I know how much time and effort has been expended by my friends and peers on establishing new lines.
Falsely claiming to have repeated moves on problems or falsely claiming to have made fast repeats of problems demeans and undermines the achievements of the first ascentionists and those of us who know how much training, time and experience has gone into these problems. Please don't do it.
Tommy
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Could it all be a hoax?
Liam - 'Have a look at this Scott its going to be fucking mental...'
later on stalking ukb
'What a shitstorm, look at them they're livid etc...'
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don;t think its a hoax from the stories I have heard from witnesses etc
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Could it all be a hoax?
Liam - 'Have a look at this Scott its going to be fucking mental...'
later on stalking ukb
'What a shitstorm, look at them they're livid etc...'
LOL, well if they (reddicks.com) want people to see them for the cocks that they are, they're certainly succeeding in that, hoax or not.
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red tips - the discerning clothing choice of hoaxers, charlatans and punters.
And dabbers.
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Of the hundred million+ websites in the world, the vast majority of them will be shit, or at least regarded as shit by any particulare group of peopel. redtips is just one of them. no-one is forcing anyone at gunpoint to go on the site, so I don't know why people are banging on about it, just don't go on it. if a site pisses you off then the best thing you can do is ignore it, otherwise you're just increasing their traffic and the viability of any advertising in the future etc. so lets all stop beating on about shit sites, its just distracting and makes the issue of determining if someone is a worldbeater or a worldcheater seem like its just inter-site bitchiness.
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so lets all stop beating on about shit sites, its just distracting and makes the issue of determining if someone is a worldbeater or a worldcheater.
We don't need any more evidence to determine the latter......
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Been reading posts here for the last few days and wanted to post my tuppence worth..
Its a common thing for people to exaggerate or bullshit about achievements - and I suspect before the WWW was about, this sort of thing would just have been banter between a few mates. Some would have thought wow, some would have thought bullshitting twat etc.. and that would be that. We all know people who stretch the truth about their climbing - such as the knob at the wall who goes on about doing 'laps' on a 7a problem etc.. Unfortunately due to the web, the red-tips crews achievements (largely fictional it would seem) are there for everyone to read about, digest and question. This means that they could well (and have) offend people who have spent ages working on these problems or done the FA's by demeaning or belittling the difficulty (though I don't think they're trying to directly diss anyone..).
With climbing, the only person you cheat by bullshitting is yourself - because its about what the achievement means to yourself (well that's what I think anyway) and whilst it may look good to impress your mates for a while its got to be a shallow thrill.
I guess what saddens me about all this is that these guys setting up Red-Tips have obviously got a huge amount of enthusiasm and drive for climbing.. they get out there and have a go, they make do with what is around them (the buildering - OK its cringeworthy with the grades given and I hope its a pisstake though suspect not!). The website is not to my taste - but for something knocked up by a group of amateurs (I'm assuming its not a pro job!) its not bad - and has forums, shop, pictures etc... Someone has obviously spent alot of time and effort working on the site which is good.. but why spoil it all by posting a load of bullshit about what you clearly have not done? Thats a real shame - because it removes 99% of the sites credibility..
If you look at the age of the users profiles on red-tips - they're all (nearly) 14-18, so maybe UKB or UKC is just a bit too high brow :-\ (you know what I mean!) and theres a need for a climbing site for the yoof.. so red-tips could have been a great idea, with an audience. But why cock it all up with some bullshit. Shame.
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RedTips always advertised itself as being for a certain agegroup, thus excluding us oldies (not sure if they are openly ageist anymore).
Dave, you are right of course. However, RedTips is the backup for a lot of Scott's sends so it is intrinsically intertwined in the BS.
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I've always found the UKC teenage toddler morons to be cringeworthily contemptible, since they started infesting UKC. All their incestuous little excuse for a website does is gather them in one place to be duly mocked.
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i still don't get whats in the this for liam copulate.he appears to be saying he actually saw scott do these things.i could understand that si oconman was producing stuff to fulfill his own fantasy but doing it for someone elses delusion is bizarre.
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I am bewildered..
First thought was 'fucking idiot'
Quickly followed by, 'this lad obviously has a problem, he's been infected with the O'conor virus, i feel sorry for him, he doesn't seem to have any proper mates to keep him in check'
If this Liam lad can climb anywhere near 7b let alone 7c then surely he's the knowledge to point out Scott's dementedness before it even gets to this stage, so either Liam is a blind hero worshipper who is also dellusional or.......or, or, or ,or .......the seems to be no 'or'.
Fortunately it seems we, as climbers, seem to be able to weed out such bullshit for ourselves so it's only a problem when it overshadows other people's efforts.
Unfortunately for Scott, who folk say seems like a nice lad, he's fucked it for himself.
I think his supposed exploits should be completely ignored from now on and not given any air time, positively or negatively, lets not waste anymore ink.
Jon aged 34 and three quarters.
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i still don't get whats in the this for liam copulate.he appears to be saying he actually saw scott do these things.i could understand that si oconman was producing stuff to fulfill his own fantasy but doing it for someone elses delusion is bizarre.
I thought you worked in mental health?
;)
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I guess what saddens me about all this is that these guys setting up Red-Tips have obviously got a huge amount of enthusiasm and drive for climbing... The website is not to my taste - but for something knocked up by a group of amateurs (I'm assuming its not a pro job!) its not bad - and has forums, shop, pictures etc... Someone has obviously spent a lot of time and effort working on the site which is good.. but why spoil it all by posting a load of bullshit about what you clearly have not done? Thats a real shame - because it removes 99% of the sites credibility..
This post is all very refreshing...
I was quite taken by Red Tips', albeit cringeworthy, "syke" for climbing... i quote from their website: "our aim is to develop younger climbers... we hope will make them feel a lot more positive about climbing on a whole, and also achieving their own personal goals. Because it's not a sport, it's a way of life!"
This attitude is really fantastic and a real bonus for any younger climbers who enjoy writing in acronyms and whaling their way up bits on concrete in scunthorpe, especially when there are so many intimidating and wizened older climbers who are ready to rip the piss (you know who you are!). I think that this cynical attitude (even if it is well-meaning) can often put younger climbers off and also gives the 'climbing elite' look like they have disappeared up their own backsides. i am not referring to commentary on scott's aledged ascents here, just to what people have posted with regard to red tips.
however, I totally agree with tomtom who has intelligently pointed out that by publishing all of this bollocks on their site makes this type of behaviour synonymous with this impressive effort made by these younger climbers. just a word to the redtip team: if you want to be taken seriously, don't publish fucking bollocks that no one will ever ever ever ever in a million years believe. amen.
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I've always found the UKC teenage toddler morons to be cringeworthily contemptible, since they started infesting UKC. All their incestuous little excuse for a website does is gather them in one place to be duly mocked.
Fiend have you been following the sloper training manual? It's not all about internet invective, there's a real emphasis on drinking you know, to be blunt, don't rant sober.
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i still don't get whats in the this for liam copulate.he appears to be saying he actually saw scott do these things.i could understand that si oconman was producing stuff to fulfill his own fantasy but doing it for someone elses delusion is bizarre.
I thought you worked in mental health?
;)
i do but i only work with people whos delusion ideas have a thread of reality. ;)
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I've always found the UKC teenage toddler morons to be cringeworthily contemptible, since they started infesting UKC. All their incestuous little excuse for a website does is gather them in one place to be duly mocked.
is there really need for this? a bit harsh maybe? i know you guys are angry for what scott has done, and that buildering in scunthorpe is value for money, but there is no need to take it out on liam. he has made a website for guys his age, so give the guy a break.
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is there really need for this? a bit harsh maybe?
I don't think you're remotely interested in my answer, are you?? Having already made up your own mind...
But, yes. They've always been a bunch of idiots on UKC, and youthful exhuberance doesn't excuse that. It's possible to be both young and enthusiastic without being quite so bloody irritating. Amazingly enough I was a young climber once and even I had some sort of humility, willingness to learn, and awareness that my youthful whitterings weren't the be all and end all of climbing knowledge, if I could manage it anyone can.
As for Scott, bleh, others have covered that side of things well enough.
But as a special treat, just for you, because your response to my post has impressed me enough already, I'll leave it for this time <insert rolling eye smiley without the smile on it>
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It's possible to be both young and enthusiastic without being quite so bloody irritating. Amazingly enough I was a young climber once and even I had some sort of humility, willingness to learn, and awareness that my youthful whitterings weren't the be all and end all of climbing knowledge, if I could manage it anyone can.
. :lol:.or the first things that spring to mind to describe your past prolific posting on UKC
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Yes but at least I was a cunt when I knew what I was talking about, it took many years of climbing experience to get that obnoxious.
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I've always found the UKC teenage toddler morons to be cringeworthily contemptible, since they started infesting UKC. All their incestuous little excuse for a website does is gather them in one place to be duly mocked.
is there really need for this? a bit harsh maybe? i know you guys are angry for what scott has done, and that buildering in scunthorpe is value for money, but there is no need to take it out on liam. he has made a website for guys his age, so give the guy a break.
yes there is a need to take him on he's the one giving these fantasy ascents some vague credibility by saying he witnessed them.
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:kiss1:
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is there really need for this? a bit harsh maybe?
I don't think you're remotely interested in my answer, are you?? Having already made up your own mind...
yes this was rhetorical
It is fair game that they have come under criticism for supporting Scott under the circumstances, but their website also contains content which is not related to this sorry furore. This content is relevant and inspiring for the 10-16 age group, and i don't know why his opinions or input on climbing (or my contributions for that matter) are any less relevant than yours Fiend. It is like slagging someone off because they have a nerdy hobby like World of Warcraft, or medieval role play, which wouldn't be fair, eh Fiend?
To reiterate, I appreciate that some of it is annoying and childish, but they have every right to say what they want, as long as they don't support any bull shitting or fantasist witterings on. I know we all like a good bitch but there is a lot of elitist banter that goes on on this forum which is not constructive or helpful when it comes to resolution.
If this slagging match means that the Red Tips guys lose their motivation, become disillusioned, close their site, climb less, stop visiting the wall or crags, or all of the above, then I for one would think it a very sad outcome to this debate
No hard feelings
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I think i have said this before on another thread but I am 18 yrs old and consider myself to be an enthusiastic climber but i think their website is ridiculous. Its trying to make a little group of people out of climbing like all of these common "youth groups" like chavs, skaters... etc. the list goes on..
To enjoy climbing you dont need to post stuff on the internet about what you have been doing and climbing up buildings and saying things like 'man', 'dude' and 'sick' whenever you say anything. You just enjoy your climbing and get on with it.
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[/quote]
If this slagging match means that the Red Tips guys lose their motivation, become disillusioned, close their site, climb less, stop visiting the wall or crags, or all of the above, then I for one would think it a very sad outcome to this debate
[/quote]
Really? I think that would be an excellent outcome
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If this slagging match means that the Red Tips guys lose their motivation, become disillusioned, close their site, climb less, stop visiting the wall or crags, or all of the above, then I for one would think it a very sad outcome to this debate
Really? I think that would be an excellent outcome
If we'd stopped every arrogant, gobby teenager from climbing then we'd never have had Jerry Moffatt.
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Do you think Jerry would have stopped climbing if people had taken the piss?
But the point is that the RedTips website is putting forward all of Scott's sends as News.
And Fact x Importance = News.
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Jerry sprayed about stuff he'd actually done.
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Jerry sprayed about stuff he'd actually done.
Sometimes even with witnesses, photogrpahs and lycra.
In fact that's what these boys need is some lycra with big rubber dicks shoved in their pants.
You can't beat a bit of spinal tap bouldering cross over.
This one goes up to V11
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I'm bored with this now, :yawn:
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Red's point is mature, coherent and balanced. Surely he should be writing to The Guardian?
As a News of the Screws reader I much prefer my invective to be personal and biased, preferably in my favour.
The lunatic enthusiasm of redring.com with confused reporting reminds me of those early copies of Crags I used to buy: great. The enthusiasm I mean, not the lunacy. If you can't make a tit of yourself when you're young, when can you?
I think Red has a good point: climbers are getting younger and consequently behave like, errh, youngsters sometimes can. In fact I now believe I'm nearly in my 20s again. I'm glad they're utterly psyched, just not to the point that mistakes with reality don't deserve a good slapping down. It never did me any harm.
Yours sincerely, Jim Perrin/Dennis Gray/Jon(rambles on incoherently..)
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To enjoy climbing you dont need to .... You just enjoy your climbing and get on with it.
:great:
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10 points to anyone who can count how many different names have been used for red tips on this thread! :P
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Jerry sprayed about stuff he'd actually done.
I was referring to the attack on the rad-tits website and the general arrogance of yoof, not the Scott debacle.
I'd like to believe him but there seems to be a growing body evidence to the contrary. And as for Liam, not even Jerry was that full of his own achievements.
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Youthful exuberance - ah... ::) We were all young once.
But I'm not going to get into a debate with red-tips, it's not really my thing but if it floats their boats then hey...
Now that Serpico has brought Jerry into it, I was just thinking that Scott is putting himself at a disadvantage. Jerry was driven to achieve his goals, and I don't know if he spouted shit out of his mouth saying he'd done this and that when in fact he hadn't... His book leads me to believe otherwise. So in effect, because Scott believes he's done these things (even though he hasn't as corroborated by witnesses on UKB) I reckon he won't be as driven to achieve his goals / set goals to work towards so he can get good and claim those problems truthfully.
Shame really, as some of you have said, he seems to be a nice chap. Wish him all the best, but until he starts facing reality and stops BSing himself, he's not going to end up as a top climber (and be known for all the wrong reasons).
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It is like slagging someone off because they have a nerdy hobby like World of Warcraft, or medieval role play, which wouldn't be fair, eh Fiend?
Very clever, or it would be if it actually supported your argument - it's not about the activity it's about the attitude. I've encountered wargamers who are as young as the copley clan but have a considerably more interesting, well-rounded and generally more palatable approach to their respective hobby.
There have also been a few young climbers who have also been less cringe-worthy but somewhat irritating in their youth, and have been slapped down on a far more regular basis than these scrotes, and have taken it in their stride to become, well really quite decent guys.
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Si M'Congaile
Scott Mclellan
Hmmm :-\
I see on RedTips there' a photo of Scott repeating The Island, 8c. Good effort Scott!!!
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/TheIslandScotty.jpg)
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Ive been watching this thread for a bit now, and i think some of the stuff on it is pretty out of order. i can see where some of you guys are coming from, but some of you are just total dicks, i thought somebody saw scott climb this stuff? isnt that enough? even if you think this is the only occasion, plus i think that picture is pretty out of order as well, theres no need for that, i think you should either stop posting or do a bit more research, or something.
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Ive been watching this thread for a bit now, and i think some of the stuff on it is pretty out of order.
Yeah, you're right.
i can see where some of you guys are coming from, but some of you are just total dicks,
We're all dix lol
i thought somebody saw scott climb this stuff?
Noone saw him do anything
even if you think this is the only occasion
No, it's multiple occasions
plus i think that picture is pretty out of order as well, theres no need for that, i think you should either stop posting or do a bit more research, or something.
It's the only pic of him on anything above 7c that exists. Please feel free to post more.
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It appears all threads on Scott are being pulled from UKC.
All I wanted was proof. Good old fashioned HiDef video proof.
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Ive been watching this thread for a bit now, and i think some of the stuff on it is pretty out of order. i can see where some of you guys are coming from, but some of you are just total dicks, i thought somebody saw scott climb this stuff? isnt that enough? even if you think this is the only occasion, plus i think that picture is pretty out of order as well, theres no need for that, i think you should either stop posting or do a bit more research, or something.
Liam, if you're going to pretend to be somebody else try using a different IP address ;)
I was referring to the attack on the rad-tits website and the general arrogance of yoof, not the Scott debacle.
I agree with you - we shouldn't be slagging the site off for the sake of it.
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i thought somebody saw scott climb this stuff? isnt that enough?
If you read Jim's post you'll see that he didn't film him not climbing things in the Cave and others didn't film him not climbing at Pill Box.
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Liam, if you're going to pretend to be somebody else try using a different IP address ;)
lol lol lol lol lol lol
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i thought somebody saw scott climb this stuff? isnt that enough?
If you read Jim's post you'll see that he didn't film him not climbing things in the Cave and others didn't film him not climbing at Pill Box.
Watch those double negatives Slackers... :-\
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Liam, if you're going to pretend to be somebody else try using a different IP address ;)
[/quote]
that nearly made me piss my pants.thats the great thing about being young think you are so clever and invincable.
steve age 53 and alot with help from aylish age 15
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What was the name of that girl that used to pop up in support of Si O?
Deja vu.
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Sarah O'Connor? But only at the weekends.
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I think i have said this before on another thread but I am 18 yrs old and consider myself to be an enthusiastic climber but i think their website is ridiculous. Its trying to make a little group of people out of climbing like all of these common "youth groups" like chavs, skaters... etc. the list goes on..
To enjoy climbing you dont need to post stuff on the internet about what you have been doing and climbing up buildings and saying things like 'man', 'dude' and 'sick' whenever you say anything. You just enjoy your climbing and get on with it.
You did. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11345.msg193565.html#msg193565) And it's a very good point. My views on this are all on that thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11345.msg193237.html#msg193237) really.
Liam, if you're going to pretend to be somebody else try using a different IP address ;)
Oops!
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Sarah O'Connor? But only at the weekends.
(http://www.spiralpocus.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/the-terminator.jpg)
I'm a friend of Sarah O'Connor. I was told she was here. Could I see her please?
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I think Red has a good point: climbers are getting younger
only harris gets younger, the rest of us are subject to the ravages of time.
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What was the name of that girl that used to pop up in support of Si O?
Deja vu.
was it big annie or something similar. wasn't fingers/blondie back in the day going to get a lift with her :-\ to go meet si.funny how he doesn't post on here anymore.
probably chained up in si's cellar and forced to watch him pulling down 4c moves with si giving a running commentry " and si performs the first english 7c move a 100 feet above certain death"
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si-o used to have an imaginary friend called either "ben" or "sgurr" who used to post up on here and cocktalk to substantiate his claims. the remarkable thing was this ben's posting style, grammar, lexicon and spelling was totally identical to si-o's. It then transpired that all their posts were made within seconds of each other from the same IP address.
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I though ben was his collie. That dog's got mad typing skills.
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I'm Luke, I'm five and my dad's Bruce Lee
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Rumbling around in
his JCB a van eating porridge lol
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i thought somebody saw scott climb this stuff? isnt that enough?
If you read Jim's post you'll see that he didn't film him not climbing things in the Cave and others didn't film him not climbing at Pill Box.
Watch those double negatives Slackers... :-\
Its a play on the forthcoming film :P ...
There's a red tips film, coming soon, maybe all Scotts footage is being saved for this monster media moment.
This DVD will give climbers that aren't necessarily top climbers a chance to show what they can do, however saying that, it may turn out that what you want to be filmed doing might mean that you wont be filmed or in the film.
:shrug:
There's a joke in here somewhere about not being filmed not doing something because you haven't actually done it but my head's fried from all this and I need a drink.
:alky:
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I think we said from the start this was an unpleasant business and it indeed is. Unfortunately Scott has brought it on himself.
I think we have proved beyond reasonable doubt that Scott hasn't climbed these hard problems like he claims to of done and his name will defiantly not be going down in any of the history books and unless he gets strong and starts climbing hard stuff in front of people/ video camera's etc... then no one is ever going to believe he has climb something hard.
I think some of the slagging off of red-tips is pretty out of order tho, Scott needed putting straight but it seems like they are just psyched young climbers who just seem very immature to us old twats
Also the low start to snatch is still waiting for an ascent (god help us)
Here is the fictional list for reference when hopefully Scott has the decency to take it down
08/10/17 the ace Peak District / Stanage first 8b!!!
1 session!!!
3 very cold hours!!! ***
8A+
09/03/23 snatched stanage plantation
09/02/17 steep arete from a really low start Albarracín / aeroline best problem all holiday :D ***
09/02/17 cosmos 7C+,8A,8A+,8B Albarracín / techos Second GO 1 move wonder to the biggest hold ever! ***
8A
09/03/23 snatch! stanage plantation
09/02/17 andrada problem Albarracín / techos cool problem ***
09/02/17 ?? Albarracín / SOL amazing moves! ***
09/02/17 steep arete problem Albarracín / aeroline ***
08/12/28 blind drunk Burbage north **
08/11/07 hooligan 8A,8C Raven Tor finished low ***
08/09/29 the joker Peak District / Stanage getting up at half four in the morning is worth it :D ***
08/07/13 viaggio in nessun luogo Val di Mello / lo scivolo second ascent ***
08/07/13 digitalis Val di Mello / lo scivolo Hard, FA possibly 8a?
my first, first ascent
felt harder than anything i have ever done. ***
08/07/11 The Press Low Right Peak District / Rubicon ***
7C+
08/12/10 renegade master 7c+,8a Froggatt ground up highball with lots of pads! good stuff! ***
08/09/29 brad pitt 7C,7C+,8A Peak District / Stanage getting up at half four in the morning is worth it :D ***
08/09/24 master kush Peak District / Rivelin Second GO fell off on the last hold on the onsight! :( poo ***
08/07/13 sogno di tarzan sit Val di Mello / tarzan Hard felt vey hard ***
08/07/13 Aspettando fred nicole val di mello / tarzan Hard, Second GO ***
08/07/13 project vigne Val di Mello / lo scivolo Hard, Second GO ***
08/07/13 dregsdrumandrock'n'roll Val di Mello / tarzan Hard, Second GO ***
08/07/13 dottor zero 6B,6C,7C+ Val di Mello / mello third attempt ***
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1 session for the ace!! :lol:
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____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
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I watched Scott climb this:
09/02/17 steep arete problem Albarracín / aeroline ***
The SDS is one more move which he did a few times seperately but none of us saw him link it as we all got cold and left.
make your own mind up
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whereabouts at albarracin is that? i can't picture it from that description alone.
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It's right next to the road (probably the closest boulder problem to the road in the whole place)
now i've thought about it i also saw him climb this:
09/02/17 ?? Albarracín / SOL amazing moves! ***
amazing looking problem , on that big free-standing boulder.
i didn't see him do any of the other albarracin 8s.
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What did you think about the grades?
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It's right next to the road (probably the closest boulder problem to the road in the whole place)
I know the one. looks like a great problem, i think banks nearly did it when we were there.
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I can't comment on grades, much too hard for me.
The one by the road had one long hard move which looked nails even when he got it.
The other (at Sol) was more sustained and was climbed really well so was made to look easy.
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now i've thought about it i also saw him climb this:
09/02/17 ?? Albarracín / SOL amazing moves! ***
amazing looking problem , on that big free-standing boulder.
I didn't think there were any 8s on that boulder, at not on any top i've seen. one or two 7c+s maybe. I presume you mean on of the sitters on the back face, which one?
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The left hand sitter moving up and slightly right. Pretty sure it was 8a in the guide book we had (general spanish bouldering book, albaracin was only one section listed), could easily have been re/down graded since that went to print (don't know how old it is).
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on this face then? maybe #57 by that description?
(http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7491/3936/1600/40%20via%2055,karmansia(56)%20y%2057%20copia.0.jpg)
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I didn't think there were any 8s on that boulder, at not on any top i've seen. one or two 7c+s maybe. I presume you mean on of the sitters on the back face, which one?
It's the line that starts as for Karmansia SD but goes straight up instead of traversing right. It's right of the 7c SD on the left. Scott used a different sequence to the video I saw, but hey, he climbed it. Gets 8a in the latest guidebook (Eblock).
Resonate, I didn't realise you saw him do that arete at Aeroline. Shame you didn't film it - I know Scott was keen to get some pics, but we were all too busy doing our own thing.
What did you think about the grades?
I didn't try any of the harder problems Scott tried, so I can't really say, but most of the problems I did were about right, maybe a few soft touches, but that's the same wherever you go (except the peak).
So I've no reason to doubt anything he did at Albarracin. We saw him climb two hard problems, and he looked capable on others. Of course, climbing 8a/+ is a long way from doing the Ace, but there you go. My only experience of Scott climbing is that he did get up some hard stuff. He also struggled on some easier stuff, though he rarely attempted problems below 8a.
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I didn't think there were any 8s on that boulder, at not on any top i've seen. one or two 7c+s maybe. I presume you mean on of the sitters on the back face, which one?
It's the line that starts as for Karmansia SD but goes straight up instead of traversing right. It's right of the 7c SD on the left. Scott used a different sequence to the video I saw, but hey, he climbed it. Gets 8a in the latest guidebook (Eblock).
word, looking at that photo above looks like theres some chalk dabs on this.
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Photo? Not visible for me.
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pic is here (http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7491/3936/1600/40%20via%2055,karmansia(56)%20y%2057%20copia.0.jpg)
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Those lines don't tally with my guide. There is a 7c that goes to two lip holds right of the tree, then up. Then there is a line that goes to the start of the traverse, then comes back left (the 8a). What Scott climbed is nearest to line 56 in that pic (though this line isn't in my guide). Like I said, he didn't use the sequence I saw in the video (which also used the chalked up holds a little further right) but he climbed the most obvious sequence to the top. :shrug:
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i wouldn't lose sleep over that topo photo, it just happened to be the most easily accessable photo i could find on the web that showed that face of the boulder. 56 is that 7c, but they havent swerved the line left enough at the first lip.
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I think some of the slagging off of red-tips is pretty out of order tho, Scott needed putting straight but it seems like they are just psyched young climbers who just seem very immature to us old twats
I don't think it is. I'd also like to put it all down to youthfull exuberance and a big psyche but as has been said before, would you have come out with half the shit they do when you were their age or younger?
Hillwalking/dabbing aside, I've heard a report that Scotty might not be the only red-end with integrity issues... So watch this space?
Just read that back and sorry for such a negative post but hopefully this whole saga can act as a simple lesson for keen youngsters - don't lie or else :spank:
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My only experience of Scott climbing is that he did get up some hard stuff. He also struggled on some easier stuff, though he rarely attempted problems below 8a.
This is true. He was focussed on the bigger numbers.
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This whole tale is very sad ..... I can't help but feel sorry for the lad .....
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Just a thought on line 56 on that Albarracin topo. If you do go direct without traversing into Karmansia it is about 7c. Really nice problem with nice holds. Got 7c+ in my topo but certainly wouldn't get that in Font or the UK.
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right, i am new to this forum thing and i have been reading alot of your comments, i have also been on this 'red-tips' site and personally i give the kids respect, as the behaviour i have seen on here in way makes me feel ashamed that fellow climbers would slag off younger climbers 'psyche' as it is called well in my case alot younger climbers, i will probably stay away from climbing on the internet, thanks. I just think you should all think. This is the next generation of climbers, shouldnt you be motivating them rather than slagging them off.
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The problem is not with their pysche but with the direction of their psyche surely? And surely this is also motivation to prove us cynics wrong?
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liam :-\ ?
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i understand entirely where you are coming from but i just think you could be a little bit harsh, when it all comes down to it they are kids, just give them a break, i will not be on this website anymore so goodbye guys, just think before you write again
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little bit harsh,
Harsh ?..... And there was me thinking how everyone was being rather nice and understanding for a change .... Harsh bah , you ain't seen these fuckers being harsh 'James ' .....
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i will not be on this website anymore so goodbye guys, just think before you write again
Yes, we need to think of Bubba's unemployment fund. If he looses any more members who stop posting after half an hour of membership and 2 posts then... oh, I see :lol:
l o l
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It is the Rapper Jam E Slime using a thinly disguised pseudonym. Don't dis him, Lagers.
Ahhhrg..... tooo l a t e.
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right, i am new to this forum thing and i have been reading alot of your comments, i have also been on this 'red-tips' site and personally i give the kids respect, as the behaviour i have seen on here in way makes me feel ashamed that fellow climbers would slag off younger climbers 'psyche' as it is called well in my case alot younger climbers, i will probably stay away from climbing on the internet, thanks. I just think you should all think. This is the next generation of climbers, shouldnt you be motivating them rather than slagging them off.
Their are soo manie fings wong wif wot ya said.
I think everyone agrees that the Red Tips website should not take the brunt of this no matter how much fun it may be.
Apart from Fiend and we don't care what he thinks anyway
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I was looking for a sarcy bye bye emoticon and came across this...
(http://emotloader.hu/emoticons/byebye/TFR28B0.png)
And wasnt really going to bother posting it...
BUt just down the same page they had this
(http://emotloader.hu/emoticons/byebye/TFR9CF.png) (http://emotloader.hu/emoticons/byebye/TFR9CF.png)
So thought I may as well :)
there was something in the bounce,.,....
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Chew my choad.
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liam :-\ ?
Haha, probably..
i will probably stay away from climbing on the internet, thanks.
Dude, thats sick man, is there a whole page about doing this on ted rips? Does it mean i could climb 8c without leaving my computer?
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liam :-\ ?
No, it's a friend of his from near Scunny. Seriously.
But anyway, James/Josh - nobody is really slagging RedTips apart from poking a bit of gentle fun at it. They just have issues with a certain person's claims.
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hmm yes but still, we are the younger ones and we are clearly more mature than some of the people here, i am not really fussed about the claims you are saying about scott, some of you dont have to be pricks though
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i will not be on this website anymore so goodbye guys
Liar liar, pants on fire.
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some of you dont have to be pricks though
just to clarify, can you let us know which ones of us can be pricks? thanks.
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ROFL:ROFL:LOL:ROFL:ROFL
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LOL=== []\
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ROFLCOPTER
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we are the younger ones and we are clearly more mature than some of the people here
Yeah, suggesting jumping onto moving buses (http://red-tips.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/550642-legal-consequences-) is really mature and sensible.
How have people been pricks? Poking fun at people that say stupid things is fairly routine.
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some of you dont have to be pricks though
just to clarify, can you let us know which ones of us can be pricks? thanks.
I am physically unable to be otherwise, I have a doctors note which I will forward to the DWP.
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if you can get one get a high visibility jacket and carry it round with you, so that if you get approached put it on and just say that you are doing some surveying or sumthing
Hang about boys. I think we've underestimated these guys. Obviously intellects to be reckoned with.
And at least they're anti donkey tick mark.
Try not to use chalk though, if you do, try and keep the walls as clean as possible.
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maybe that explains the reported lack of chalk on the pool of bethesda pocket. mystery solved.
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"i will not be on this website anymore so goodbye guys"
"Liar liar, pants on fire."
Just when I thought this thread was dead!
Excellent.. teasplutteringoverthekeyboardly funny :)
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some of you dont have to be pricks though
just to clarify, can you let us know which ones of us can be pricks? thanks.
This made me burst out laughing drawing a few strange looks - oops. Good play dave!
Anyone care to wager if jamesline will be back... Methinks not. I'd be damn disappointed though, he's mananged to turn out an excellent thread from his contributions!
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This is the next generation of climbers,
This statement is incorrect. Fortunately.
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Shouldn't this be on the shit heap with the rest of them?
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No cos Dylan started this sensibly to mock the whole debacle. If he'd been at all serious in the first place, then yes it should. Whether it's still News or not ::)
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It looks like the redtips crew are returning to silence their doubters....
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=352533 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=352533)
For the sake of anyone who ever visits Parisella's I just hope they fork out for a proper campsite... the toilet issues just don't bear thinking about.
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made my day reading this thread ;D
i think a lot of it comes down to the red-tits.com boys being very fame hungry and self/grade obsessed.can remember on ukc one of the terrible twins or both claiming f.a's on a boulder between burb south and millstone somewhere.a couple of problems were down at font 7a+.,never been there but to think they had not being climbed is very nieve.the next week on ukc they were in at english 5a!!now thats a downgrade.
i dont feel sorry for this scott lad at all.
he knows he can stop it all very easily.well he cant because i seriously doubt he can do most of these prob's he claimed.
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Just to clarify to people on this thread after coming back from Albarracin yesterday (I arrived with a f*cked finger) none of the grades are anyway near correct and basing anything on them is just pure lunacy.
That one move 8a+ in Aeroline would be getting Morpho 7c in the UK
Aeroline itself is 7a+ (this goes right through the grading)
Klems Traverse, well Jerry's at Cratcliffe IS harder
Nat flashed something with 7 in the grade, she's never climbed harder than 6b!
Nearest line 56 R-man? You're going to have to clarify that as line 56 is a 6b+ and straight up the end of the traverse is given 7a from standing? Those chalk dabs aren't going to produce an 8.... Even an Alb 8 unless you stick some blinkers on.
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Interesting stuff Paul, but you really should have gone to the UK's premier climbing news agency with this story..... http://www.red-tips.com/ (http://www.red-tips.com/) 'News Slap'.............
Gutter about the finger......bad?
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its an arse for what I wanted to tick at the tor but I can generally avoid annoying it too much on most other things (avoiding two finger drags).
I just thought this thread could do with some grade grounding, my general opinion is that Euro grades are out of control but even the locals agree on this one. Comparing British Font 8a to Albarracin 8a requires some kind of major adjustment. Word has it that the E-bloc Albarracin Topo was produced in a whopping 3 weeks, there's no wonder the grades/names are all over the place.
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line 56 is a 6b+
ROFL:ROFL:LOL:ROFL:ROFL
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LOL=== []\
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ROFLCOPTER
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its an arse for what I wanted to tick at the tor but I can generally avoid annoying it too much on most other things (avoiding two finger drags).
I just thought this thread could do with some grade grounding, my general opinion is that Euro grades are out of control but even the locals agree on this one. Comparing British Font 8a to Albarracin 8a requires some kind of major adjustment. Word has it that the E-bloc Albarracin Topo was produced in a whopping 3 weeks, there's no wonder the grades/names are all over the place.
all the stuff that I did at albarracin (7a-7b+ish) seemed about ballpark for the grades to be honest. banks was shooting for a lot of 8s when we were there and didn't do any, which doesn't reek of it being chronic soft-touch city to me. Chances are that some individual problems could just be badly graded, especially newer stuff (the UK is not immune to this), and of course grade discrepancies across the various albarracin topos/websites could be a factor.
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Right, I agree that there some soft touches (though as you said yourself, this occurs everywhere - could it possibly maybe perhaps be that peak grades are wrong?) but line 56 is not a 6b+ - I think you're getting mixed up with Alevosia to the left, which my guidebook gives 6b (tsk tsk, you're overgrading, Paul). What Scott did involved a big move from that slopey ledge the line goes through to a dish up and right. I tried this move a couple of times and it wasn't 6b+. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a 7, but then I wouldn't be surprised if it was a soft 8a either.
Anyway, to clarify, I'm not defending Scott here, just saying what I saw him climb. His goings on in Wales sound a little wierd - Kook says he told Scott what he climbed looked like a cross between Cable Guy and Jerry's Roof, then Scott told people he climbed Malc's start.... ???
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R-Man If you have seen scott climb an established problem you would know there is no way this guy has climbed an 8th grade problem
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Jim, this is the very reason I didn't want to rush to judgement. I've seen some very strong cimbers perform shockingly on low 7's (on lime as well as grit). Whenever it happens I think brilliant, I must be getting stronger. Next session they are a bit more pysched and less tired, or whatever, and they pull onto some hideous crimps and show me how to climb an 8a+.
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Lets take one case here then. Aeroline 7b+/C in the topo, obviously a well tried and tested probem, the area is named after it. Grit like in style and holds. Sloper. heel lock. Crimp. RF Heel out right. Reach up. Now, take a f*cking hot day, think hard about it and tell me of a grit problem like it at that grade that you could even pull on?
4 separate people all agree'd that it was 7a+...
Supermafa Macho, Techos 1, 7b/+ for a man of your stature Dave I'm surprised you didn't get confused with the 6b to the left of a similar name, after all you will have been stood on a ledge the size of the floor.
I could do this all day... Its not sensationalist downgrading for the sake of it the place is softer than my bones.
R-man, you are correct B29 G 8a SD in E-bloc.... I'm standing by my "Nothing 8a on that block" point made earlier.
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R-man, its not only me that is of this opinion.
Read back through the thread for plenty of others of the same opinion
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Aeroline 7b+/C in the topo,......4 separate people all agree'd that it was 7a+...
I don't know what this is. the current topo when we went (2006 and 2007) didn't have many names on, certianly none at this area. If i understand correctly that this is the area right by the road with that classic 6b crack and someone's drive cutting through the area then the thing you describe sounds like this (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/albarracin/12.jpg) which I did, looks like s classic grit problem, gratcliffe-esque rock, was given 7b on our topo. can't remember if banks and lovejoy did it, it is reachy. you'd have to be tripping to give it 7b+/c in a topo.
Supermafa Macho, Techos 1, 7b/+ for a man of your stature Dave I'm surprised you didn't get confused with the 6b to the left of a similar name, after all you will have been stood on a ledge the size of the floor.
you'll have to help me out here, the name's familiar but I can't place it. is this the basic looking thing with a terrible sloping topout, next to a 6b line of nice jugs up and arete/prow with a similarly terrible topout?
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R-man, you are correct B29 G 8a SD in E-bloc.... I'm standing by my "Nothing 8a on that block" point made earlier.
Whatever Trevor. You could well be right, I just want to be clear I didn't fail on a 6b+...
I could also name some hard for the grade problems.
A Ciegas I thought was desperate for 7a+.
Boulder 44 at Arrastradero (in the Ebloc) gets 7a but felt every bit 7b.
Aristronauta (the left leaning one) was pretty stout for 7a+ - I see it got 7b in the free topo.
So there are some soft ones, but there are some tough ones too. Seems pretty normal to me.
Jim, I don't really care how many opinions there are. ;D
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A Ciegas I thought was desperate for 7a+.
that was 7b+ when we were there, and pretty fair for the grade!
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Aeroline 7b+/C in the topo,......4 separate people all agree'd that it was 7a+...
I don't know what this is. the current topo when we went (2006 and 2007) didn't have many names on, certianly none at this area. If i understand correctly that this is the area right by the road with that classic 6b crack and someone's drive cutting through the area then the thing you describe sounds like this (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/albarracin/12.jpg) which I did, looks like s classic grit problem, gratcliffe-esque rock, was given 7b on our topo. can't remember if banks and lovejoy did it, it is reachy. you'd have to be tripping to give it 7b+/c in a topo.
You've got it.... 7b+/C! Reachy? I'm guessing bad sequence. Now turn round and look at the 8a+ prow, still adding up?
you'll have to help me out here, the name's familiar but I can't place it. is this the basic looking thing with a terrible sloping topout, next to a 6b line of nice jugs up and arete/prow with a similarly terrible topout?
Have you got a phobia of putting your foot up and turning your left hand? Yes thats the right problem.
I have to admit R-man there are actually a few things that are graded correctly yes. ;)
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Supermafa Macho, Techos 1, 7b/+ for a man of your stature Dave I'm surprised you didn't get confused with the 6b to the left of a similar name, after all you will have been stood on a ledge the size of the floor.
Just read this. Paul, if you think this is 6b, you should be climbing 8b. Hang on a second... ;)
For me, this grade was right. I got to the top, but didn't finish it off. Powerful and fingery. Compared to limestone stuff here, it's bang on - I thought 7b+ for sure, but perhaps if you are taller you'd be able to keep your feet on the ledge for a little longer.
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Compared to limestone stuff here, it's bang on
Oh I give up. :'(
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Have you got a phobia of putting your foot up and turning your left hand? Yes thats the right problem.
you know I do.
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I've seen some very strong cimbers perform shockingly on low 7's (on lime as well as grit).
I haven't. Not people who crush 8b in a sesh.
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I forgot to mention that nobody Spanish actually seems to come and climb if the forecast is anything other than SPF 25 worthy.
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I haven't. Not people who crush 8b in a sesh.
So you've never been to font? !!
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I haven't. Not people who crush 8b in a sesh.
So you've never been to font? !!
Not with anyone that good. I'm sure Ty didn't cock up many 7a+s though when he was there.
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Not with anyone that good. I'm sure Ty didn't cock up many 7a+s though when he was there.
.........which, lest we forget, is the type of level we're talking about here. Whether or not you climbed a soft 8A in Spain or whether that problem is actually 8A or 7C it's still a whole world away from climbing claiming The Ace in a session.
Scott is not a bad climber. I'm sure given the right problem and the right amount of dedication and training he could probably climb 8A. I'm even more sure that he hasn't climbed Malc's Start, The Ace, Snatch Sitter (in 19 degree heat), Hooligan Start, done all the moves on Louis Armstrong (when no one was looking) or flashed The Joker and The Promise.
Just to keep things in perspective like.......
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Ty did mention struggling on Le Joker at Cuvier....
Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A. I'm sure he's a beast (he was asking for beta on Supersize Me, 8B) but we shouldn't jump to conclusions just because we've seen people struggle on easy stuff.
On the other hand, said welsh strong dude has an impressive, corroborated and witnessed list of hard ascents in the past..... :-\
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If people want some more info on which lines are which in Albarracin there are some good pictures identifying them on this blog, including one of Aeroline.
http://www.increasingthecalibre.blogspot.com/ (http://www.increasingthecalibre.blogspot.com/)
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Ty did mention struggling on Le Joker at Cuvier....
I noticed that too in his blog. However, I don't know if it was his first go (can't see him coming back to repeat a 7a), but he came over a did in trainers (he gave them a good brush before jumping on), while we were there.
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7Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A.
:off: (sorry chummer), is Slap Happy (the standard way not the low start) really V6 (7a)? It felt easier than Mugsy, I'd put it around hard V4 or V5 and Mugsy hard V5 or V6...
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7Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A.
:off: (sorry chummer), is Slap Happy (the standard way not the low start) really V6 (7a)? It felt easier than Mugsy, I'd put it around hard V4 or V5 and Mugsy hard V5 or V6...
Yes!
It takes some people ages to send that problem!
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So consensus is that it's harder than Mugsy (which is Font 6c+ therefore V5)??
How perculiar.
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So consensus is that it's harder than Mugsy (which is Font 6c+ therefore V5)
I'd agree with that.
Except the V grade bit.
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::)
There must be a lank/weakness issue going on somewhere.
Anyway, BACK TO SCOTT...
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::)
Anyway, BACK TO SCOTT...
Why?
It's bullshit and we all know it!
What a joke!
:lol:
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As was pointed out today, wether spanish bouldering is incorrectly graded or not or wether scott did an 8a (that nobody is really sure what it is or the grade from what I can gather) It still is a million miles away from doing the ace in a session
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wether
(http://fiascofarm.com/photo_images/ballsat2months.jpg)
Gotcha there Jim, you're saying Scott's on the right, yeah?
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I can't spell for toffee or tofu
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Ty did mention struggling on Le Joker at Cuvier....
Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A. I'm sure he's a beast (he was asking for beta on Supersize Me, 8B) but we shouldn't jump to conclusions just because we've seen people struggle on easy stuff.
On the other hand, said welsh strong dude has an impressive, corroborated and witnessed list of hard ascents in the past..... :-\
East Coker also took certain Welsh dude many many days of effort spread over a long period of time. Climbing a proper hard Font 8b in ONE session is what we're talking about here hence the comparisons to Ty (The Ace was Ty's first 8b too, i'm sure it took him at least 3/4 visits).
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The Ace was Ty's first 8b too, i'm sure it took him at least 3/4 visits).
three quarters? Boy is good.
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took him 2 sessions on the le joker :lol:
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took him 2 sessions on the le joker :lol:
And whats he ever done in font? ::)
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7Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A.
:off: (sorry chummer), is Slap Happy (the standard way not the low start) really V6 (7a)? It felt easier than Mugsy, I'd put it around hard V4 or V5 and Mugsy hard V5 or V6...
:agree:
It doesn't even have a slap move in it, it's just pulling between good holds (on not so good rock :P )
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7Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A.
:off: (sorry chummer), is Slap Happy (the standard way not the low start) really V6 (7a)? It felt easier than Mugsy, I'd put it around hard V4 or V5 and Mugsy hard V5 or V6...
:agree:
It doesn't even have a slap move in it, it's just pulling between good holds (on not so good rock :P )
I didn't think you had ever been to dumby in recent memory roddy ha ha.
maybe if you are 8b strong they are good holds but it is a good problem and is spot on for 7a. About the same or a bit harder than mugsy, mugsy is a trick move which once you have done once you can do everytime.
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scott flashed the joker and brad pit, and did the ace in a session
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scott flashed the joker and brad pit, and did the ace in a session
Where abouts in Wales are these peoblems?
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i have no idea what a peoblem is but the ace is a cross between cable guy and deliverance. the joker is at alberacin and brad pit is an 8a roof done onsight above the atlantic, allegedly
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scott flashed the joker and brad pit, and did the ace in a session
Where abouts in Wales are these peoblems?
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A peoblem is like a boulder problem specifically for uncoordinated twats with fat fingers
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A peoblem is like a boulder problem specifically for uncoordinated twats with fat fingers
does your R button not work largers, ;)
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A Preoblem? do you get them on undiscovered preboulders?
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A peoblem is like a boulder problem specifically for uncoordinated twats with fat fingers
does your R button not work largers, ;)
Nah, I've been practising typing with my elbows so I can type whilst holding the baby
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don't you mean...
(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/telegraph/multimedia/archive/01239/sign1_1239591i.jpg)