UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: tommytwotone on January 15, 2013, 09:01:32 am
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Apologies if anyone's covered this before - searching the forum for "7b" returns a predicably large amount of results!
So, after some continued success in ticking off a "top end" 7a pretty quickly, coupled with some naked grade-chasing in pursuit of my goal for this year, last year and the year before, I'm trying to sort out a project Font 7b in the Peak to get on.
Wanted to canvass opinion as to one that's:
a) In the accessible from Leeds in a day side of the Peak
b) Is on grit
c) Isn't reachy for someone who's 5 foot 7
d) Would be doable on one's own if necessary
So a trawl of the last PDB guide I think threw out the following as interesting contenders:
Zippy's Traverse, Stanage
Captain Hook, Stanage
Boyager, Burbage North
Electrical Storm, Burbage South
Desparete, Burbage South
Countdown, Burbage West
The Traverse, Burbage West
True Git, Burbage West
Piss, Higgar
Master Chef, Millstone
Green Death Superdirect, Millstone
Pets Win Prizes, Mother's Pet
Pig Heart Boy, Froggatt
Late Junction, Curbar
The Art Of White Hat Wearing, Curbar
For A Few Beagles More, Baslow
Flatworld LH, Baslow
Soft On The G, Gardom's
Sauvito, Gardom's
Any advice thoroughly welcome!
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Well, throw out TAOWHW and flatworld LH to start with, both 7B+. Of the others on your list I've done, desperate is pretty high (crux is ok height though), electrical storm is pretty hard. Boyager is easy but you might not be happy on your own. SOTG is a good bet if you're good on that sort of knacky arete climbing. FAFBM felt spot on for the grade and has a nice friendly landing so could be good.
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Zippy's Traverse, Stanage - fine
Captain Hook, Stanage - fine
Boyager, Burbage North - potential death sans spotters
Electrical Storm, Burbage South - fine but you'll need more than one mat
Desparete, Burbage South - highball, sloppy landing
Countdown, Burbage West - shit
The Traverse, Burbage West - you're too tall
True Git, Burbage West - fine
Piss, Higgar - fine
Master Chef, Millstone - has a block right in the landing, otherwise fine
Green Death Superdirect, Millstone - perfect
Pets Win Prizes, Mother's Pet - is this the sidewall?
Pig Heart Boy, Froggatt -fine but maybe want a spot
Late Junction, Curbar - fine but needs a couple of mats
The Art Of White Hat Wearing, Curbar - couple of mats, spotter welcome
For A Few Beagles More, Baslow - which one is this?
Flatworld LH, Baslow - fine unless you drop the top
Soft On The G, Gardom's - fine
Sauvito, Gardom's - spot and pads wanted
I would recommend more but I forget what is graded 7b in the current book.
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I'm in the same boat re grit up problems (7A max) so keen to see what gets recommended.
Re Suavito from what I've heard you wouldn't get on this without a spotter and it's pretty scary even with one.
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Zippy's Traverse, Stanage - decent choice
Captain Hook, Stanage - ditto
Boyager, Burbage North - Bad Landing, need partner
Electrical Storm, Burbage South harder if you can't reach the crimp (I can't)
Desparete, Burbage South - think you'll need a spotter here
Countdown, Burbage West - this is ok except the first and last moves, unfortunately there's only three moves in all.
The Traverse, Burbage West - contender if not that great (have a video I've not posted if you'd like to see the beta)
True Git, Burbage West - possible but hard
Piss, Higgar - defo, get to it
Master Chef, Millstone - dunno
Green Death Superdirect, Millstone - dunno, quite specialist though I believe
Pets Win Prizes, Mother's Pet - only had a quick look, short, slopey and hard and a big block behind
Pig Heart Boy, Froggatt - dunno, would try it alone with two pads, cold day needed I think
Late Junction, Curbar - dunno
The Art Of White Hat Wearing, Curbar - high, multi pads and spotter preferable
For A Few Beagles More, Baslow - brilliant and ok on the right day
Flatworld LH, Baslow - hard
Soft On The G, Gardom's - yes
Sauvito, Gardom's - highish, not one to do alone
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As a fellow short bloke,
I've done zippy's and in the cold it aint too bad. Its not reachy and not too, skin intensive.
I find captain hook a bit spanned for the last 2 moves.
Electrical storm - I find i hard to get to the crimp, need a spotter. but if u can reach the crimp without too much hassle its all over.
Soft on the G. Not bad with the right beta. not reachy.
If u wanna check out my logbook, If i can reach it - you can.
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How about tracking @ Curbar ?
Where's Countdown at Burbage West ?
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Soft on the G may fit the bill but I never thought it was very good, just didn't enjoy the climbing on it.
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Couple of others to consider:
MP3, Birchen - low, straightforward, bit of a reachy lunge.
David, Mudda Cap - quite tricksome but really good wall climb, two padder.
Mark's Roof, Gardoms - might not be your bag - long, roof into a slopey traverse with a heartbreaking final mantle.
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How about tracking @ Curbar ?
Where's Countdown at Burbage West ?
Tracking is well reachy (well it was for me..) - and has now been bumped up to 7B+ - maybe I did it some lankmeisters way..
Zippys and soft on the G are good shouts (both tried but never done). Captain Hook always feels really shit when I've tried it, but that might be an arms and legs everywhere thing ;)
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Oh OK sorry TTT
Agree with mp3 and soft on the g as in you can work them lots without wasting time recovering or going too high and getting scared
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Zaff's roof secret garden - easy with a good sequence.
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Mark's Roof, Gardoms - might not be your bag - long, roof into a slopey traverse with a heartbreaking final mantle.
safe and you can work the crux easily from standing
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Zippy's Traverse, Stanage – Very popular as a first 7b, due to being 7a+.
Captain Hook, Stanage - Solid 7b
Boyager, Burbage North – Easy 7a+ IMO. Probably gets grade for the tricky landing
Electrical Storm, Burbage South – Great prob. Tricky 7b
Desparete, Burbage South – Steady 7b if you get the beta right. But the top bit is high and the landing slopes.
Countdown, Burbage West – Haven’t tried
The Traverse, Burbage West – Not great
True Git, Burbage West – Haven’t tried much but seems solid 7b
Piss, Higgar – A bit wrist hurty but not too hard for 7b
Master Chef, Millstone – Haven’t tried. Awkward landing
Green Death Superdirect, Millstone – Easy if it suits you, desperate if it doesn’t
Pets Win Prizes, Mother's Pet – Thought I gave this 7a+
Pig Heart Boy, Froggatt – Knacky, balancy technical palming. Not bad when figured
Late Junction, Curbar – Haven’t tried
The Art Of White Hat Wearing, Curbar – Great but prob not ideal if pushing grade and a bit reachy
For A Few Beagles More, Baslow – Tad reachy
Flatworld LH, Baslow – Top move needs a spot really. Not ideal first 7b stuff
Soft On The G, Gardom's – Middling 7b. Lowball with flat landing
Sauvito, Gardom's – More ballsy than hard. Prob not ideal first 7b
How about:
Marks Roof, Gardoms
Pogle’s Sitter, Gardoms
Zaff’s Prob, Secret Garden
Little Gem, Burb S
Case of Mistaken Identity, Stanage
Sparks, Rivelin
All ok for 7b (IMO) and not requiring multiple pads/spotter
If you willing to travel further there are some good options around the Cratcliffe massif
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Where's Countdown at Burbage West ?
Just above the stream below westworld but what dave said
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Ok ta
I thought COMI was nails
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Ok ta
I thought COMI was nails
Horses for course. It’s one of the tiny few peak 7bs I managed to flash.
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U were probably on wrong problem Jon ;)
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Marks roof is a good shout. PW sit I agreed with the guide - not much change from 7B+.
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late junction, piss, soft on the g, marks roof and mp3 are all good bets. need a few pads for late junction though...
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don't bother with captain hook - its shit
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Pig Heart Boy, Froggatt – Knacky, balancy technical palming. Not bad when figured
Years since I did it, but I just remember a tricky move off a gaston and sloper to gain a slopey left hand, via a pebble intermediate, then a big rockover on the starting handhold. Where do you palm?
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Zippy's Traverse, Stanage Classic and doesn't need a spotter, but a bit reachy
Captain Hook, Stanage Probably easier if you're short as it's bunched. I think it's hard
Boyager, Burbage North Defo not one to do on your own and 7a+ as Bonjoy says
Electrical Storm, Burbage South Fine
Desparete, Burbage South Want a spot and a few pads - most folk seem to not top out :-[
Piss, Higgar Classic and easier if you're short to get your hips and foot onto the lip
Master Chef, Millstone I don't find the landing an issue, and personally find this totally knacky and p*ss for 7b so probably reachy :lol:
Green Death Superdirect, Millstone Impossible
Pig Heart Boy, Froggatt Classic. You don't need a spot really, but 2 pads is helpful
The Art Of White Hat Wearing, Curbar 7b+ really and needs 3 pads at least
For A Few Beagles More, Baslow Not as good as the other problems on the block
Flatworld LH, Baslow Hmm, not exactly a king line
Soft On The G, Gardom's Classic and short - perfect for a first 7b
Sauvito, Gardom's E5 without spotters!
Little Gem, Burbage South Hard
Sean's Arete at Curbar is classic for 7b and doesn't need a spot, but it's a big move.
The Rib at Burbage South is top end 7b but v good.
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Pig Heart Boy, Froggatt – Knacky, balancy technical palming. Not bad when figured
Years since I did it, but I just remember a tricky move off a gaston and sloper to gain a slopey left hand, via a pebble intermediate, then a big rockover on the starting handhold. Where do you palm?
All I can remember is locking out a palm down on the big slopey boss/start hold. Sounds like there's other ways to do it.
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Suarvito has a big(ish) reach too. It might be a stopper move. I like soft on the G and captain hook, and I have unfinished business at both crags if you fancy sharing the drive down south some time soon.
Master Chef is straightforward. I reckon you'd do it fairly quickly. It's a long drive to visit a crag without much bouldering though. Prob tie it in with somewhere else.
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Sean's Arete at Curbar is classic for 7b and doesn't need a spot, but it's a big move.
Its not a HUUUGE move, but a fairly large one - would have thought its within range... (happy to help/provide beta etc..) isnt this on Nai's hit list too?
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It is, sort of, but I haven't been on it for a couple of seasons because it's a HUUUUGE move and the pebble wrecks tips on my left hand.
being of similar stature and vaguely knowing 3T's strengths I'd say Piss would be a favourite, with stuff like Zippy's and SOTG (though I found this a bit meh) just behind
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Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk is another belter
Recently did Purple Haze Low which I thought was a brilliant 7b. Requires two pads and no spotter.
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Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk is another belter
One I have to get back to but on a first visit found it quite reachy getting the crimp (I've got your back, 3T)
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Do you have a preferred style (slopers / crimps / slabs / prows / technical / powerful etc.)? If you're looking to break a new grade then playing to your strengths often helps. It's probably also worth finding something that inspires you, if you're involved in a multi session project it needs to be suitably inspiring to motivate you to get down from Leeds time and time again.
Picking a project at a venue with other problems around will help as it will give you something to warm up on and move on to when / if you start getting bored. Made in Sheffield is a great problem but it's really a one problem venue.
Finding problems that allow you to work all the moves individually will help a lot too (Captain Hook / Electrical Storm / Zippy's Traverse / Mark's Roof would all fit this bill).
Another plan might be to head to a venue like Gardoms where there are a multitude of great 7Bs (Kidneystone / Mark's Roof / Perfect Day Direct / Soft on the G / Suavito / Pogle's Wood), try them all and pick the one that suits you best.
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A Case of Mistaken Identity is a good call. Some nice warm ups on the Cube block just next to it and you can work all the moves individually. Not that hard when it's this cold either
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Chris is right, much as Made In Sheffield is great I wouldn't dedicate 50% of my weekend to it by driving from Leeds. Its one for locals on an evening-after-work tip really.
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Another plan might be to head to a venue like Gardoms where there are a multitude of great 7Bs (Kidneystone / Mark's Roof / Perfect Day Direct / Soft on the G / Suavito / Pogle's Wood), try them all and pick the one that suits you best.
That's what Tom describes as the TT nightclub pulling strategy for boulder problems ;)
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Tom, just curious as you're in Leeds, why not target something closer to home?
Must be plenty to go at if you can stop going to the cliff every week.. :shrug:
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Not so many 7B's at da Cliff... Slopey traverse, stuff on front of virgin.. #notinspiring
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good point: just pick some at Earl, which is pretty much the Peak anyway. Or Ben's at Caley.
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Ringpiece at Ilkley?
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Not so many 7B's at da Cliff... Slopey traverse, stuff on front of virgin.. #notinspiring
That was my point and cofe & i_a_coops have identified a couple of decent options, sure there's something at Brimham too but it's not coming to mind
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What about that 7B that Will just did at Ilkly Rocky Valley.. (There was a vid of it..)
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Energy Follows Thought - Ilkley Rocky Valley (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDyU_IVaadU#)
and this (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16359.msg285599.html#msg285599) may be of use:
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Not so many 7B's at da Cliff... Slopey traverse, stuff on front of virgin.. #notinspiring
That was my point and cofe & i_a_coops have identified a couple of decent options, sure there's something at Brimham too but it's not coming to mind
The grouch? negative send by myself but looked pretty good!
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-edit- not a good suggestion ignore me
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Tom, just curious as you're in Leeds, why not target something closer to home?
Must be plenty to go at if you can stop going to the cliff every week.. :shrug:
Insert your own joke here about Peak 7bs compared to Yorkshire 7bs...! ;)
T2's right, been struggling to find something reliably dry / inspiring / not reachy up this way (e.g. Ben's Groove is awesome, had a session on it but can't really be bothered gambing on the 5 days a year when it's dry and in also conditions are favourable...). That said, Energy Follows Thought looks like a contender, need to go and check it - looks like the sort of weird thrutchy funk that I prefer.
Cheers for the Peak-based responses all, will have a trawl through and digest properly. From checking in briefly today between what's been a very hectic day I think Piss, David, Soft On The G and Sparks all look like good contenders, plus Boyager if I can campaign for a posse to get out for a team send.
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Gardoms North on Sat then? :)
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Something like that, especially if conditions are looking like last weekend this coming weekend!
Incidentally, for Soft On The G, am I right in thinking that starting with a high left as per this vid is legit for the grade?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=qpEZV-qKxCo#! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=qpEZV-qKxCo#!)
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Jobs doesn't want me to watch the vid but you do start with a high left hand, n right on vertical hold
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I started on those holds, but guppying/cusping the arete.
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TomTom - silver trout (soft), cherry falls right, and underhand are all worth a bash, but Im sure im telling you stuff you already know... that thing at gardoms looks good though!
The sherif at woodhouse, and various versions on the same block are worth a look - not peak, but a good 7B. Greenwing at baildon bank is ok if you like baildon bank. Theres some other stuff to play on there too. crimpy roof at brimham, I thought was a good play at around the same grade if you are having a powerful day.
Dont know anything that anyone has said about the peak though. Sorry....
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I find the last move on crimpy roof desperate (edit: most of crimpy roof desperate) You do have a touch more span tho Tom. Silver trout is easy for 7b, but not that good.
All good suggestions so far.
If you need A.N other for boyager, I may grow a pair and some with.
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Grouch good
Crimpy wall good
Ringpiece good
Energy follows-reeeeeeachy
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How can something that high be reachy? It just requires niftier footwork!
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How can something that high be reachy? It just requires niftier footwork!
yes
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Re Almscliff, inability to accommodate my long legs means I can't get near Silver Trout - so it should suit the shorter gent. Someone mentioned Slopey Traverse - isn't that 7b+/c (depending on chip usage)? The Fieldside Traverse is next to it and 7b - and that's good.
At Brimham, Grouch and Crimpy Roof are both good. Other 7b's I like are Long Haul traverse, Pinky Traverse (with the flake finish) and Titfield Thunderbolt. The back wall traverse into Happy Days is also around 7b - unpleasant but satisfying.
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Green Nose at Brimham is really good. Can't recall if that gets 7a+ or 7b
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7B and brilliant to boot. Titfield is ace but a tricky start if you're short on reach. Pinky Traverse with the flake finish is brick if you can't reach the flake.
Silver trout is a good climb but eliminate and quite bitey on the finger.
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/search.html?action=search&text=7b (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/search.html?action=search&text=7b)
Has anyone done Parappa the Rapper? Any good?
This is mint (not finished it mind so can't comment on grade:
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__team_america#photo (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__team_america#photo)
Spondonical at Simon's is flipping amazing and not reachy.
Polar Haze at Rocky Valley is also good, along with the forementioned Energetic Follow Through.
There's an awesome 7B prow at West Chevin too which isn't reachy. Burly and balancy.
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Caspar's Start at Norwood and Tantric Traverse at Snowden are also both very good. Neither very reachy.
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This is mint (not finished it mind so can't comment on grade:
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__team_america#photo (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__team_america#photo)
I was on it at wkend, destroys skin in no time. Feels about right for 7b mind.
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Doesn't it get 7a or + in the guide? Good problem.
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Probably, but I wouldn't trust the guide's grades. Or much else. A block on the next page or two has all the problems on it listed as font 5 when one's 7B, one's 7A and the other is about 6C.
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Re Almscliff, inability to accommodate my long legs means I can't get near Silver Trout - so it should suit the shorter gent.
Heel or toe around the arete to the left for the taller (and shorter) Gent.. soft at 7B
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Doesn't it get 7a or + in the guide? Good problem.
It's good, but probably 7a+ at the most.
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What about fight on black at widdop. Not peak but closer to you? Great line, fairly quick drying, might be a bit reach for a midget I suppose.
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Doesn't it get 7a or + in the guide? Good problem.
It's good, but probably 7a+ at the most.
Is that for the sit start - I had a quick play and couldn't get anywhere near it. That said, it was dirty and the prospect of a heel-hook failing and my flying off into a bad landing was praying on my mind - might have to get some beta and revisit.
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Doesn't it get 7a or + in the guide? Good problem.
It's good, but probably 7a+ at the most.
Is that for the sit start - I had a quick play and couldn't get anywhere near it. That said, it was dirty and the prospect of a heel-hook failing and my flying off into a bad landing was praying on my mind - might have to get some beta and revisit.
Yes. Sit start with two pads and a trustworth spotter. I've tussled with it on warm evenings on my own in the dark, but did it on Sunday first go with the above spec'. Class none the less.
On another note, whilst I climbed in the peak a lot over the last few years, I really can't understand why you'd want to leave an area so rich in classic problems to find a climb of a certain grade. I've done dozens of yorkshire problems in the 7a to 7b+ range over the last 6 months and I've only just scraped the surface. The peak is great, don't get me wrong, but maybe you need to get on Yorkshire grit and go and find some hidden gems.
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Take your point Andy, I'm not disputing that there is bags of quality in Yorkshire (in fact I think the 7a/+ stuff I've done here is better than some of the equivalent Peak based stuff!).
It's more that if I'm being totally focused on getting a 7b ticked, which I'm aware is some pretty base grade-chasing, I need to be realistic about the probability of being able to get on it the one day a week that I get to go out, when the conditions are going to be favourable etc etc.
I mean, Ben's Groove is no doubt a top line, may be awesome climbing but I wouldn't know...I've never got further than move 2 because the things always got a massive wet streak down it. Ditto Ringpiece - been twice in the last couple of months and the right crux hold was gopping.
All that said, some top recommendations for Yorkshire stuff on here - will be checking Energy Etc and will tickle the aforementioned Silver Trout next time I'm at The Cliff...got to be preferable to frustrating myself on Demon Wall Roof again!
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What about Baby Spice @ Ilkley? I've always liked the look of it, but never got very far (out of my abilities though) quite high, but good landing with a couple of pads and a spotter.
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or you could just scroll through this
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/search.html?action=search&text=7b (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/search.html?action=search&text=7b)
til something clicks.
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If you've got a bit of sloper "feel" then (the previously mentioned) Zaff's at Secret Garden is a good call for Peak based 7b.
For Yorkshire Grouch at Brimham is a good call, Crimpy Roof is quite reachy if you don't have the reach from what I remember.
Don't go for Fight on Black if heading over Widdop way (it's reachy), instead tromp up the hill side on the other side of the road to the far end of Scout Crag where there is a 7b low roofy thing the name of which I can't recall...
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Boggy's Roof?
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That's the badger.
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http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=scout__sooty#comments (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=scout__sooty#comments)
Harder for the short perhaps according to Oracle of Wisdom BenF...
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A certified midget climbs it in the video though...
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A certified strong midget climbs it in the video though...
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If you've got a bit of sloper "feel" then (the previously mentioned) Zaff's at Secret Garden is a good call for Peak based 7b.
That's you and travs that have said that. So what's the short beta? I really struggle - match the lip then one hand up to sloper with a foot in back, try to throw a heel up and end up swinging off.
And I have a sloper feel, done everything else on that block bar Middle Man & LHM Direct.
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I'm not particularly short (5'9", 0 ape) but I always do this problem by getting a left heel on when matched on the sloper rail, then rolling up semi-dynamically with left hand straight to sloper. There is a bit of micro-beta, which is to pinch thumbs under lip when putting heel round, then moving RH rightwards along rail to best bit before move to sloper. You do need to be quite flexible for this.
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Cheers, the thumbs could be the key. Although this
You do need to be quite flexible for this.
could be the stopper.
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I'm only 5'7" so here we go. The ledge at the back has a bit of a step int it. Make sure your right toe goes in the slight scallop on the small step out.Then you should be able to reach the sloper with your right foot still on. Now swing your left heel up and make sure you get a good heel and toe. Match hands and then move your left foot towards your hands a bit and then up you go. Bob's your uncle job done. :)
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Sounds similar to what I've tried previously but I guess it's all about that right toe rather than heel-toes right in the back. Cheers, will give that a go next time I'm there.
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Can't remember exact sequence I'm afraid but I am short and am not flexible and I think I did it second go (look at me...).
GCW might have a video of it somewhere? I'll have a looksie...
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GCW doesn't seem to have it on Vimeo anymore (I think he had some issue with his account??). But I've found a copy on my computer, I'll upload it tonight so you can have a look.
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http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=scout__sooty#comments (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=scout__sooty#comments)
Harder for the short perhaps according to Oracle of Wisdom BenF...
Harder for the short but not harder than 7B. Without wishing to sound like I'm moaning, I'm not, its clearly easier for the tall but a quality 7B for anyone less than tall.
I'd also dispute that Fight On Black is not suitable for the short. It's again easier for the tall but bob on 7B and probably more fun for shorter people. Like many problems, shorter people get more moves and more fun...
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Like many problems, shorter people get more moves and more fun...
Why are they always complaining then? :shrug:
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It's not just us, the tall chip in too ;)
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21429.msg390765.html#msg390765 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21429.msg390765.html#msg390765)
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Zaff's:
Zafs for vimeo on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/57732667)
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:lol: Not much use for beta when we can't actually see you.
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cheers nik, similar to travs by the looks, might have to keep my feet on a bit more than you though.
Was that guy with you? Could hardly have stood in a worse place if he tried
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Bad trousers too ;)