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places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: Doug on February 07, 2024, 11:55:50 am

Title: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: Doug on February 07, 2024, 11:55:50 am
There are five IFSC World Cups this year, two further Olympic Qualifier Series and one Olympic Games.

World CupKeqiao, China
FinalsLocal timeUK time
Semi-finals women09 April 24 12:0009 April 24 05:00
Finals women09 April 24 19:0009 April 24 12:00
Semi-finals men10 April 24 12:0010 April 24 05:00
Finals men10 April 24 19:0010 April 24 12:00
World CupSalt Lake City, USA
FinalsLocal timeUK time
Semi-finals men04 May 24 10:0004 May 24 17:00
Finals men04 May 24 18:0005 May 24 01:00
Semi-finals women05 May 24 10:0005 May 24 17:00
Finals women05 May 24 18:0006 May 24 01:00
Olympic Qualifier SeriesShanghai, China
FinalsLocal timeUK time
16-19 May 2024
Olympic Qualifier SeriesBudapest, Hungary
FinalsLocal timeUK time
20-23 June 202420-23 June 2024
World CupInnsbruck, Austria
FinalsLocal timeUK time
Semi-finals women27 June 24 13:0027 June 24 12:00
Finals women27 June 24 19:3027 June 24 18:30
Semi-finals men28 June 24 13:0028 June 24 12:00
Finals men28 June 24 19:3028 June 24 18:30
OlympicsParis, France
FinalsLocal timeUK time
Bouldering semi-finals men05 August 24 10:0005 August 24 09:00
Bouldering semi-finals women06 August 24 10:0006 August 24 09:00
Lead semi-finals men07 August 24 10:0007 August 24 09:00
Lead semi-finals women08 August 24 10:0008 August 24 09:00
Combined final men09 August 24 10:0009 August 24 09:00
Combined final women10 August 24 10:0010 August 24 09:00
World CupPrague, Czechia
FinalsLocal timeUK time
Semi-finals men21 September 24 12:0021 September 24 11:00
Finals men21 September 24 20:0021 September 24 19:00
Semi-finals women22 September 24 12:0022 September 24 11:00
Finals women22 September 24 19:0022 September 24 18:00
World CupSeoul, Republic of Korea
FinalsLocal timeUK time
2-6 October 2024-8 hours

I accept no responsibility for incorrect information or dodgy time conversions.

Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: jwi on February 07, 2024, 12:52:11 pm
Wow thanks!
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: sherlock on February 07, 2024, 12:59:55 pm
Yeah, thanks for that :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: tk421a on February 07, 2024, 02:59:11 pm
I think your dates for the OQS in Shanghai are wrong, think it should be 16-19 May.

https://stillmed.olympics.com/media/Documents/Olympic-Games/Paris-2024/Paris2024-QS-IFSC-Lead-Boulder.pdf
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: Doug on February 07, 2024, 03:26:32 pm
I think your dates for the OQS in Shanghai are wrong, think it should be 16-19 May.

You're right. It's in May not June.

Now, how do I edit the original post?
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: alx on February 07, 2024, 08:17:37 pm
Couldn’t work out how to give Karma to you Doug. But take a metaphysical +1 from me
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: JamieG on February 07, 2024, 09:13:32 pm
Couldn’t work out how to give Karma to you Doug. But take a metaphysical +1 from me

I think you need to have made a certain number of posts on the forum (50?) before you can dish out karma. But I might be misremembering.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: duncan on February 07, 2024, 09:23:26 pm
Now, how do I edit the original post?

You ask a moderator nicely!

alx, I've wadded Doug on your behalf.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: Ali on February 08, 2024, 08:01:41 am
Thanks for this.
There are also 6 Lead World Cups in addition to the Boulder events listed above. Dates, times etc are here https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lemony on February 08, 2024, 08:49:12 am
Results and ongoing rankings will be easiest to find here...
World Cups
Keqiao (B): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1353
Wujiang (L,S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1354
Salt Lake (B, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1355
Innsbruck (L, B): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1356
Chamonix (L, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1357
Briancon (L, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1358
Koper (L): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1359
Prague (B): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1360
Seoul (L, B, S) https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1361

OCS:
Shanghai (L&B, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1384
Budapest (L&B, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1385
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on March 03, 2024, 09:55:47 am
Comp season is approaching, Plywood Masters this weekend seems like one of the first preseason events.

I noticed Yufei Pan is in semi finals. Anyone know how long he's here, and what else he's up to - sticking around til CWIF maybe? It's relatively rare we get foreign climbers come over so I'm always interested to find out what they get up to (ie any sessions on rock...)

Here's the finals livestream, from 1630 https://www.youtube.com/live/LmrPGDa6o4k?feature=shared


Edit: one for semis too https://m.youtube.com/live/uEixn7KBYkM
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: Duma on April 08, 2024, 07:27:42 am
Erin Mcneice has qualified for semis in 4th place in China, only second to janja in her half of the draw.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: wasbeen on April 08, 2024, 07:42:11 am
That is a great result. Well done her!

Not sure I understand the scoring. Why is she ahead some of climbers with 5 tops (some with less attempts)?
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: IanP on April 08, 2024, 08:18:21 am
Not sure I understand the scoring. Why is she ahead some of climbers with 5 tops (some with less attempts)?

Two separate groups for qualifying, she came second in group A, looks like problems were much easier in group B.

https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1353/cr/8509
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: wasbeen on April 08, 2024, 08:58:35 am
Thanks. I hadn't realised the two groups did different problems. I had (wrongly) assumed they did the same problems at a different time.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: Duma on April 08, 2024, 09:20:27 am
It's different problems for each half of the draw in qualifying, otherwise it would take too long. It does look like in this case they set pretty much identical (or mirrored) blocs for each group (compare Miho and Janja's ig stories), so it is interesting that Miho's side of the draw got many more tops
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lemony on April 08, 2024, 09:22:41 am
Is there any coverage of the qualifiers? I can't find any details of coverage. Classic IFSC stuff...
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lemony on April 08, 2024, 09:29:47 am
. It does look like in this case they set pretty much identical (or mirrored) blocs for each group (compare Miho and Janja's ig stories), so it is interesting that Miho's side of the draw got many more tops

Looking at Roman Krajnik's story and comparing to Miho's it looks like 1 and 5 were more or less the same, 3 was mirrored albeit the wall angles are bit bit different - but 2 and 4 were quite a bit more distinct
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on April 08, 2024, 01:06:26 pm
Yeah I think they try to do at least similar styles, but often wall angles dictate some big differences between the actual boulders each group gets. Hence the difference in scores between groups.

Apparently mens qualis has been cancelled due to the weather. All men will compete in "semis" and then top 20 will compete in the "final". Sounds like carnage! There have been a few comps affected by rain now (Innsbruck a year or two ago, I think another too?); it's disappointing that the venues chosen for comps can be so susceptible to the weather.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: sherlock on April 08, 2024, 07:30:17 pm
That's a total pisser....
Toby ,4 flashes, counts for fuck all now  :shrug:....
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lemony on April 09, 2024, 08:18:52 am
Erin McNeice through to finals with some seriously strong names missing out by the looks of it.

edit: https://www.instagram.com/stories/erinmcbeast/3342226627948271564/
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on April 09, 2024, 01:54:48 pm
Didn't watch yet, but noticed Janja flashed a boulder nobody else could do. Business as usual I suppose.

Congrats to Erin for 5th, must have been a while since we had a woman in finals (especially other than Shauna)
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lemony on April 09, 2024, 02:36:13 pm
Worth a watch, Erin looked a bit nervy/unsure on P1 and on the slab which I think cost her a couple of places. Janja remains a different breed entirely. P4 she could have been on a different problem.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: sherlock on April 09, 2024, 03:21:49 pm
Didn't watch yet, but noticed Janja flashed a boulder nobody else could do. Business as usual I suppose.

Congrats to Erin for 5th, must have been a while since we had a woman in finals (especially other than Shauna)
Nobody, not even Janja could top W2.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: IanP on April 09, 2024, 06:39:32 pm
Nobody, not even Janja could top W2.

That was in the semi final.  Out of 13 problems through the 3 rounds Janja did 12 of which 10 were flashed.  At a quick glance the next best was Luo with 8 tops and 5 flashes.  It must be really quite difficult to set for!
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: remus on April 09, 2024, 06:44:08 pm
It must be really quite difficult to set for!

As long as you don't mind getting slagged off by Janja on insta for setting it too easy, I guess it's not really that different to setting as you otherwise would. You 'just' set to try and separate everyone else in the final and accept that Janja is gonna flash everything and take the win, and you get good separation to decide the 2nd to 6th.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on April 09, 2024, 07:39:27 pm
Different year, same route setting challenges

It all comes back to what would generally be seen as "The Janja Issue": are they setting for the top competitor, or the 6th? There have been many finals now where Janja or Natalia has topped all the boulders with ease, and multiple other people have not even topped one. Seems like a pretty impossible task to me, especially if 2 of the super-crazy-strong women are in it and need splitting.
I fully agree that there are some routesetting issues with IFSC comps, especially women's comps, but I don't really have many ideas for how to set better when there is such a range in quality, even in just the final.

I think the route setters did a fairly respectable job this time out, good separation through the finalists - if that scorecard happened in the mens comp, we'd say it was about perfect. The only problem comes from the fact that it's the same person flashing every time, compared to mens where it might be someone different on form and winning week by week.

Hopefully the setters can handle the curveball of everyone doing semis tomorrow and adjust accordingly - I really don't envy that task. Similarly, getting a podium out of 20 finalists that doesn't mean loads of blank scorecards (I'd imagine the temptation would be to go too hard vs risking being too soft and not getting separation).
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: IanP on April 09, 2024, 07:41:04 pm
As long as you don't mind getting slagged off by Janja on insta for setting it too easy, I guess it's not really that different to setting as you otherwise would. You 'just' set to try and separate everyone else in the final and accept that Janja is gonna flash everything and take the win, and you get good separation to decide the 2nd to 6th.
You're probably right , and setting for Janja would possibly risk poor separation for places 2 to 6 but must feel a bit frustrating not to set problems to properly test probably the best comp climber there's ever been. 
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: sherlock on April 09, 2024, 09:59:24 pm
Nobody, not even Janja could top W2.

That was in the semi final.  Out of 13 problems through the 3 rounds Janja did 12 of which 10 were flashed.  At a quick glance the next best was Luo with 8 tops and 5 flashes.  It must be really quite difficult to set for!
Yeah, sorry hadn't seen the final at that point... freakin' monster.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lemony on April 10, 2024, 09:21:29 am
Three brits in the mens semi/final hybrid later. Max, Dayan and Toby.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on April 10, 2024, 10:12:47 am
Great performances!

Discovery+ only seems to have the last 52 mins of the morning session, anyone else just seeing that? It means none of the Brits are shown :/
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: sherlock on April 10, 2024, 12:29:39 pm
Great performances!

Discovery+ only seems to have the last 52 mins of the morning session, anyone else just seeing that? It means none of the Brits are shown :/
Nope, can't get it either.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: haydn jones on April 10, 2024, 08:07:39 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XKrQypd4Hg
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: haydn jones on April 10, 2024, 08:08:45 pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGUyAsVwwQA&
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on April 12, 2024, 08:21:19 am
Another good qualifying round for GB, looks like Toby, Max, Molly and Erin are all through to semis.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: sherlock on April 13, 2024, 09:50:38 am
Looks like Max is in the Final, with 5 to climb and barring appeals.
The jamming seemed to help...
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: IanP on April 13, 2024, 10:07:47 am
Looks like Erin is going to make the final as well, impressive!
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on April 13, 2024, 10:19:07 am
Toby joins them!

Good effort by Molly too, not far off
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lukeyboy on April 13, 2024, 10:28:09 am
Apologies for the ignorant question but what comp is happening now? I watched the Keqiao men's and women's bouldering, but sounds like another has followed hot on its heels?
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on April 13, 2024, 11:25:12 am
Yeah they've had a couple days off and then gone straight into lead in Wujiang. Lead season normally begins much later but I think it's been done like this for the OQS athletes to get a comp of each discipline in before that series (there's Wujiang speed on now too)
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lukeyboy on April 13, 2024, 12:39:27 pm
Nice one, thanks
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lemony on April 14, 2024, 09:07:19 am
Anyone know when the last time there were three brits in finals for a world cup was? I can't remember any but maybe back to the early 90s?
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: ali k on April 14, 2024, 01:33:04 pm
What time is the finals live?
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: teestub on April 14, 2024, 01:45:33 pm
Right now dude, think it started 1230
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: ali k on April 14, 2024, 01:58:19 pm
Ah balls. Hopefully I can put it back to the start.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: GraemeA on April 17, 2024, 01:36:18 pm
Anyone know when the last time there were three brits in finals for a world cup was? I can't remember any but maybe back to the early 90s?

Leeds 1989, Jerry, Simon Nadin, Skinny Vinnie and Leachy
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: lemony on April 18, 2024, 09:06:50 am

Leeds 1989, Jerry, Simon Nadin, Skinny Vinnie and Leachy

Blimey, I thought there must have been one since then. Pretty momentous and could easily have happened at both Kequiao and Wujiang.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: sherlock on May 07, 2024, 10:39:35 am
Really enjoyed the SLC World Cup, especially the Women's. Lucy Garlick holding her own with the likes of Jessica Pilz was really impressive.
Sometimes I quite like a comp without Janja, not so much a foregone conclusion..... though even a one -legged Natalia
looked unstoppable...
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: ali k on May 07, 2024, 11:20:19 am
I wasn’t a fan of the one legged jumps which appeared in both men’s and women’s. They looked kind of cool when they stuck the move but I’m amazed no one was injured!
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: dave k on May 07, 2024, 12:16:52 pm
The one legged jump on the mens was not the intended beta, but as only 1 athlete really tried it the intended way, then it ended up looking quite dangerous. The intended way 180 rotation was definitely the easiest method.
Title: Re: IFSC comps 2024
Post by: edshakey on May 07, 2024, 02:18:15 pm
It did seem that it could have been intended though, since those kind of jumps are very much a trend at the minute. Like when the 180 spin first got set last year. People have clearly been training that move (see Tomoa setting a similar move in that new video with Magnus), so I suppose it's no wonder their minds went towards a jump.
Not disputing that the spin was easier though, Meichi (I think it was him?) made it look quite straightforward.
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