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the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: csl on November 29, 2020, 12:40:37 pm

Title: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: csl on November 29, 2020, 12:40:37 pm
I've got an ever growing collection of shoes which I planned to get resoled, but having never done it before I'm wondering if its worth doing?
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: dunnyg on November 29, 2020, 12:51:42 pm
I've used resoled ones indoors previously, was cheaper than buying a new pair, and i'm not too fussed about indoors. Saying that I currently have a growing collection I've not got round to doing.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Ross Barker on November 29, 2020, 12:52:31 pm
I like to resole my shoes, I've used Llanberis in the past. On the other hand I have a friend who has a dozen or so pairs of solutions and he won't resole as to him the fit is never quite the same. FWIW he's also a much stronger climber than me.

I'd say it's worth trying so at least you know whether it works for you.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: haydn jones on November 29, 2020, 01:24:01 pm
You just need to resolve before going through on the toe. If you need a toe patch the shape will change and then it's fucked. I've done most of my hardest ascents in resoled shoes as it literally makes zero difference for ne in the toe. However I would say heel hooking becomes more difficult as the heel tends to become a bit baggy. So if I come across a hard heel hook I tend to have to use a newer shoe
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: cheque on November 29, 2020, 01:42:08 pm
As Haydn says, If you don’t need to get the rands done it is totally worth it. I wrote a post extolling the virtues of getting them done at the right time on a similar thread on here a while ago (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30460.msg598686.html#msg598686).

I felt less than smug however when the resoled Anasazi velcros I’d expected to climb trad in this year unexpectedly developed a hole in the rand the third time I wore them :look: . To be honest I think a lot of the rand wear was from climbing offwidthy heel-toe jamming stuff and a period when I had suboptimal footwork due to nerve damage so won’t apply to most UKB users and I stand by my advice.

Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: csl on November 29, 2020, 01:47:47 pm
Thanks everyone, yeah mine are all instinct VS's and none of them have gone through the toe. Will send a pair off and see how I go!
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: SamT on November 29, 2020, 04:49:36 pm
Totally worth it.

Used llanberis serveral times and got some instinct Lace done.  first time, I was gobsmacked at how good a job they'd done. managed to keep the toe down curve etc, but fitted like a glove first time on.  I've had the same pair done again, and they put a rand patch on this time, and whist its totally fine for wall and tradding, its not quite as good as before.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 29, 2020, 06:23:14 pm
Totally worth it.

Yes. Torquil and Feet 1st have both done me proud.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: remus on November 29, 2020, 08:22:36 pm
Personally I've never gotten on very well with resoled shoes. Periodically I read a thread like this, think "maybe Im missing something" and get a pair done, but they just seem to lose that lovely precise fit you get from a a new pair. 'Sloppy' would describe how my resoled shoes have felt.

I've tried Llanberis resoles, the chap in chesterfield and another I can't remember the name of. The quality of the resoles seems pretty technically good (i.e. shape of the shoe is reasonable, no rubber peeling at the edges) but the fit just feels a bit off.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fiend on November 29, 2020, 08:35:01 pm
I've used resoled ones indoors previously, was cheaper than buying a new pair, and i'm not too fussed about indoors.

 :agree: quoted for truth. To "indoors" you could also add "warming up", "easy climbs in general", and "steep jug pulls with big footholds".
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: duncan on November 29, 2020, 09:00:56 pm
It depends...

...on the shoe and the resoler.

Well-made shoes like your Scarpas should take multiple resoles. 5.10s don’t do as well, although I’ve had good results from Dragons probably because they are fairly soft in the first place. Whites don’t miraculously become stiff again so resoles have been relegated to training shoes. Possibly not strictly economic when you consider the price of second-hand shoes, but I like getting stuff repaired if at all possible.

If you’ve got a favourite shoe that is no longer available or only in a different version - like old Vapours - a resole is well worth trying. 

I’m not sure who the most cost-effective resolers are at the moment. Possibly better value outside the UK, until the end of December at least.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: moose on November 29, 2020, 09:22:33 pm
I've had a lot of value from resoles.  If you tend to have RP projects at crags with limited conditions windows, the last thing you need is having to spend valuable weeks wearing in a new pair of shoes.  The benefit of a good pair of resoles is that they are useable straight-away - feel nicely worn-in but still with a decent edge.  The problem is that the mid-soles of rock shoes seem to degrade and a resole doesn't fix that.  So, even if the rubber is replaced well, stiffness is lacking - maybe not a problem for indoor volume wrestling or slopey grit but not good for UK limestone.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: teestub on November 29, 2020, 09:33:09 pm
I’m not sure if I just wear mine for too long before I’ve had them resolved but my experience is similar to Remus. For me it seems to be the stiffness in the midsole that goes and makes them no where near as good as a new pair. I guess this makes sense as it’s just a bit of plastic in there.

It’s interesting to me that so many people get on so well with them, maybe it’s generally stiffer models to start with where there’s more life left in the midsole.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: tomtom on November 29, 2020, 09:43:30 pm
(I was going to send some off to try out - different thread - but not done it yet)

Similar to Remus and Stubbs - never really liked a resoled shoe as much as the original. The new soles seem to peel away where they’ve been glued on. Maybe it’s my foot shape or how I stretch them or something...
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: kingholmesy on November 29, 2020, 10:30:11 pm
If you wear a pair until you can only just start to see through the rubber on the toe, do they still need a toe patch?

Or is a toe patch only required when you started to wear through the leather/synthetic/whatever it is?

Shoes always feel at their best time just before they wear the through the toe, so I would be reluctant to send the off too soon.

The other reason I’m sceptical is that towards the end of their life I often tear one of the laces’ eyelets or the uppers are otherwise starting to look at bit tired.  I’m not sure whether they’d last the same time again if I got them re-soled.  What are people’s thoughts??
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 29, 2020, 11:08:45 pm
It’s interesting to me that so many people get on so well with them, maybe it’s generally stiffer models to start with where there’s more life left in the midsole.

Be interesting to see what the split is between those who primarily climb on grit vs limestone vs volcanic rock.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fultonius on November 29, 2020, 11:25:44 pm
I've had a few pairs resoled, 2 x bostics, 1 x instinct slippers, 1 instinct vs. My first pair of resoled boostics became my go to trad shoes, as they were a little less still than the original, which actually suited me perfectly.

I'm nearly worn through my slippers a second time, and they seem fine. Mainly use them at the home wall.

My second pair of boostics are my main indoor wall shoe and nearly worn through too. Can't say I notice any real performance disadvantage.

I've had most of mine done the George in Arthens.

Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Moo on November 30, 2020, 03:02:16 am
I had a set of Booster S resoled last year at feet first in chesterfield. They did a superb job and the shoes felt like they'd only just been worn in when I started climbing in them again.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Coops_13 on November 30, 2020, 03:23:27 am
I sent four pairs of solutions to the Cheshire place and they all returned brilliantly. Problem is now those boots themselves have fallen apart (not just straps) before I’ve gone through the second layer of rubber  :wavecry:
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Plattsy on November 30, 2020, 08:46:21 am
I have a pair of old Vapour Vs that are on their 5th resole and at least one new rand - no change in shape. They're excellent for cruising on gritstone and occasionally for harder stuff.

My old Otakis needed a rand and they did change shape which I thought had screwed them up but they still fit nice and are fine for cruising.

My Instinct VS have been resoled and seem fine. Don't think the resole is holding me back.

I remember seeing a video where the designer at La Sportiva (Heinz?) said he has his shoes resoled and designs shoes to be resoled.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Dolly on November 30, 2020, 08:55:51 am
Same as Moo re Feet first. Pair of instinct slippers and Sportiva approach shoes done. Both excellent
Resolving is soooo much better than it was years ago. You can hardly see the join on the slippers
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: M1V0 on November 30, 2020, 10:14:11 am
I sent four pairs of solutions to the Cheshire place and they all returned brilliantly. Problem is now those boots themselves have fallen apart (not just straps) before I’ve gone through the second layer of rubber  :wavecry:

Another advocate for Cheshire. I think I've had three pairs resoled by them, I have another three to send their way at some point. I even asked them to resole some Futuras and put a Stealth Rubber edge on them, they turned out to be the comfiest board shoe I've ever used.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: remus on November 30, 2020, 10:40:12 am
I remember seeing a video where the designer at La Sportiva (Heinz?) said he has his shoes resoled and designs shoes to be resoled.

I bumped in to Nathan Hoette (the other scarpa shoe design guy, appears in all the tradeshow vids explaining the new shoes) at the crag once and he mentioned that scarpa do a resoling service at the factory where they basically rebuild the entire shoe with fresh rubber on. He said he basically just did that and tended to get the best fit after the second or third resole. Apparently it's fairly cheap too, though obviously dependent on being able to get your shoes to the scarpa factory in the first place.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: sdm on November 30, 2020, 11:37:48 am
 I know a few people who have had them done by Scarpa. They said they did a great job, including fixing toe hooking rubber (always the first thing to go on my instinct VS) and straps etc but that they were expensive.

I think they said they were £60 or £70 but I may be remembering wrong.

Could be exchange rate differences and not getting an employee rate and free shipping etc.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: remus on November 30, 2020, 12:30:20 pm
... but that they were expensive.

I could well be misremembering. He may have said it was cheap for him which would make more sense!
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: shurt on November 30, 2020, 01:34:43 pm
Do not use feet 1st they are shit. Torquill in Llanberis is incredible. Done a few pairs of Sportivas, pretty much flawless for me.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: GazM on November 30, 2020, 02:36:47 pm
Just feel like I should stick up for Feet First in Chester after Shurt's post.  I've had 2 pairs of Scarpa shoes resoled by them and am really happy with them - one each of the old red Instinct Lace and the new black/orange Instinct Lace. I'm perfectly happy to keep using them for their original uses (red for trad, black for my board and steep edgy bouldering.)

Neither of them were too far gone when I sent them off, which fits with what many others are saying. 
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Anti on November 30, 2020, 03:41:55 pm
Interestingly whenever a resoling thread pops up everyone has varying reviews (some good some bad) of a bunch of resole places (Feet First as above, Cheshire Resoles in my case) however we've all had a good experience with Llanberis Resoles from what I can see. Praise indeed!
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Ross Barker on November 30, 2020, 03:54:56 pm
however we've all had a good experience with Llanberis Resoles from what I can see. Praise indeed!

Unfortunately I've had one bad experience, the rubber wasn't very uniform and a bit gouged on one of my Vapor Vs. Did a top job on my Instinct VSRs though beforehand so it might just be a case of poor luck.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: tomtom on November 30, 2020, 04:36:25 pm
however we've all had a good experience with Llanberis Resoles from what I can see. Praise indeed!

Unfortunately I've had one bad experience, the rubber wasn't very uniform and a bit gouged on one of my Vapor Vs. Did a top job on my Instinct VSRs though beforehand so it might just be a case of poor luck.

I wasn’t that pleased with two pairs I had done there either...
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Anti on November 30, 2020, 06:25:05 pm
Well, there we go. Nowhere reliable to get resoles done. Haha.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: tomtom on November 30, 2020, 06:33:30 pm
Well, there we go. Nowhere reliable to get resoles done. Haha.

Yup - I guess every place can have a bad day - and different shoes and how they are worn may work better than others etc...
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fultonius on November 30, 2020, 10:27:06 pm
Still yet to hear a bad word said about George in Athens... Just sayin'....
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Steve R on November 30, 2020, 10:33:31 pm
anyone mentioned the Greek fella yet?  Well there's this Greek guy on fb who resoles shoes.  Had some done by him and has been worth it.  He does them cheap and postage to Greece isn't much.  I've had one or two (lucky?) pairs of resoles which have been almost as good as a new pair but generally I'd expect or hope for ~80% performance of a new pair.  Which is fine for warming up, easier climbing generally, crozzly shoe shredding dws lime or euro lime, indoors generally, etc. as others have said.   

edit - and Fultonius just mentioned him
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on November 30, 2020, 10:50:34 pm
Bit of a coincidence there, re your man in Greece  ;)

Regarding Feet First, it's probably worth pointing out that FF in Chesterfield is not the same outfit as Feet First in Sheffield (Chesterfield Road). They split quite a few years ago. I've heard plenty of great reviews for Chesterfield (used to have fell shoes resoled there), but far less favourable feedback about the Sheffield one.

I think I picked a load of Remus' trashed Scarpa's out of a skip about a year ago. (? ;D ) I thought they'd had it, but if I'd read this thread last year, I'd have given it a go, getting a couple of pairs resoled  :2thumbsup:

Think I'll try the Cheshire crew.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: mrjonathanr on November 30, 2020, 11:38:39 pm
Llanberis Rissoles are good too.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: rginns on December 01, 2020, 12:23:20 am
I've had a few 5.10s resoled by Llanberis resoled and it's always been a good experience.
It's never going to be as good as a new pair but has given a new lease of life to shoes I would have otherwise chucked, for less than half the price of a new pair. I think it's worth it.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Wil on December 01, 2020, 12:43:10 am
I had some Scarpas Resoled by Torquil 7 years ago and by some miracle I'm still using them despite them being my usual indoor shoes.

They came back with thicker rubber than they started with, which I wasn't overly keen on at first, but the repair was great. I've climber just as hard post resole as before in them.

I had a couple of pairs done by Cheshire Resoles and they were awful. I gave them away to some new climbers. It was a long time ago though.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on December 01, 2020, 03:48:50 am
Llanberis Rissoles are good too.

I'm partial to the faggots in gravy myself  ;D

Actually, I think I've been confusing reports about Cheshire/North Wales resoles. Thanks for the recommendation there Mr JR  :thumbsup:  and rginns and Wil for info there too. Definitely sounds worth giving a go.

I think that with climbing having gone mainstream, we should embrace any opportunity there is, to use it to promote sustainability. I think this is lacking somewhat.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: steveri on December 01, 2020, 07:56:32 am

I think that with climbing having gone mainstream, we should embrace any opportunity there is, to use it to promote sustainability. I think this is lacking somewhat.

There’s something in that, I mentioned resoles to a couple of people at wall (remember walls?) and drew blank looks.

Most recently I’ve had a pair Vapour Vs done at Cheshire and was using them alongside a newer pair. They came back with the mild downturn restored but have now flattened out more ...but so have the newer pair. I doubt they do anything with whatever gives the midsole structure. No real problem with the very thin toe rand added, tidy job too. 8.5/10
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: tomtom on December 01, 2020, 08:14:01 am
No reports from the Shoe Shack near Huddersfield?
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Yossarian on December 01, 2020, 08:26:48 am
Another vote for George the Greek guy. My Solutions have gone back for their second resole. After the first (in which he did an amazing job inc repairing the straps) they were virtually as good as new and obvs v comfortable. There are some great pics on his site of some insanely shabby / full of holes Miuras which he repaired.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: iain on December 01, 2020, 08:54:19 am
Which Feet First does the Foundry use?
Didn't realise there were 2.

Anyway, I've had several pairs of old Vapour V's done by them and always been v.happy with the job. Sent well before there were holes in the toe.


However, now need some Miura VS done if anyone's got any experience?
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: remus on December 01, 2020, 09:04:44 am
I've heard similarly good reviews for Greek George. Next time my interest in resoling is suitably piqued he'll be who I'll try.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: nai on December 01, 2020, 09:26:26 am
Which Feet First does the Foundry use?
Didn't realise there were 2.

Pretty sure there isn't one in Sheffield any longer (their old address is listed as a Barbers) so it'll be the Chesterfield one.

Can't comment on Miuras but I had Katanas done there and they were as good as new
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: iain on December 01, 2020, 11:22:01 am
Cheers Nai
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: galpinos on December 02, 2020, 09:59:57 am
I've had a few 5.10s resoled by Llanberis resoled and it's always been a good experience.
It's never going to be as good as a new pair but has given a new lease of life to shoes I would have otherwise chucked, for less than half the price of a new pair. I think it's worth it.

Llanberis/Torquil won't accept 5.10 now fyi.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fultonius on December 02, 2020, 11:25:11 am
I've heard similarly good reviews for Greek George. Next time my interest in resoling is suitably piqued he'll be who I'll try.

It's really worth holding off until you have 3 pairs, or share a postage with some mates. With royal ail that worked out the sweet spot of weight vs cost for delivery, think it was £11 for 1,2, or 3 pairs, then 4 pairs went up to £30+ as it nudged over the 2kg limit.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: tomtom on December 02, 2020, 11:40:33 am
I've heard similarly good reviews for Greek George. Next time my interest in resoling is suitably piqued he'll be who I'll try.

It's really worth holding off until you have 3 pairs, or share a postage with some mates. With royal ail that worked out the sweet spot of weight vs cost for delivery, think it was £11 for 1,2, or 3 pairs, then 4 pairs went up to £30+ as it nudged over the 2kg limit.

Is this Greek George? http://www.shoedoc.eu/contact.htm
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fultonius on December 02, 2020, 12:13:39 pm
That's the guy. Like I say, I'm now down to almost the rand on 2 pairs of his resolves, but not even a hint of edge peeling or loss of shape.

Guttingly, I seem to have misplaced a pair of VSs that I got resoled they seemed almost better than new when I got them - confirmed to my feet, but with fresh rubber.

He has the actual scarpa and sportiva lasts from the factory, so seems to be able to fully "rebuild" a shoe.

Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 02, 2020, 12:16:46 pm
There appears to be no price list on the site?
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: RobK on December 02, 2020, 12:31:56 pm
There appears to be no price list on the site?

No, the website has always been a bit rubbish. You have to email him for a quote.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fultonius on December 02, 2020, 01:21:49 pm
There appears to be no price list on the site?

Nah, he generally asks for photos and it depends on the rubber you chose. Don't expect next day levels of service! Quality, but very....Mediterranean!

Around €30 with return delivery for a standard resole, plus €5 or so for minor rand repairs, full rebuilds up from there.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: mrjonathanr on December 02, 2020, 01:53:13 pm
Thanks.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: tomtom on December 02, 2020, 02:24:42 pm
Thanks.

I've just emailed him with some pics of my shoes so will report back here if I get a reply etc..
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: MischaHY on December 02, 2020, 03:01:57 pm
If you wear a pair until you can only just start to see through the rubber on the toe, do they still need a toe patch?

Or is a toe patch only required when you started to wear through the leather/synthetic/whatever it is?

Shoes always feel at their best time just before they wear the through the toe, so I would be reluctant to send the off too soon.

The other reason I’m sceptical is that towards the end of their life I often tear one of the laces’ eyelets or the uppers are otherwise starting to look at bit tired.  I’m not sure whether they’d last the same time again if I got them re-soled.  What are people’s thoughts??

That's actually too late. You need to send them off when the edge is through but the rand rubber (the second layer) is still intact - this advice straight from a resoler.

If you prefer the rounded, sensitive fit, then you'd be best placed switching to a no-edge shoe i.e. Futura, Genius etc IMO. They have a very similar feel to well worn shoes.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Ged on December 02, 2020, 04:20:03 pm
There appears to be no price list on the site?

No, the website has always been a bit rubbish. You have to email him for a quote.

I can't see an email address on there, anyone got one?
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: tomtom on December 02, 2020, 04:32:32 pm
It’s under contact.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Wood FT on December 02, 2020, 06:35:19 pm
There appears to be no price list on the site?

No, the website has always been a bit rubbish. You have to email him for a quote.

I can't see an email address on there, anyone got one?

PM'd you
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: RobK on April 06, 2021, 07:38:29 pm
Just a positive review for Llanberis resoles. I've had decent jobs done by them before but had always left it too late and needed a toe patch repair which was fine but left them feeling a bit more clunky than before. This time I got a pair of my old Boosters done early enough that they just needed a straight resole and they are superb. Didn't need any breaking in and felt really precise straight from the get go.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: SamT on April 06, 2021, 07:53:55 pm

Glad to know torquil is back up and working again.  ;D
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Hollo on April 07, 2021, 08:59:19 am
After trying local options and being very disappointed, I have used shoedoctor.eu in Slovenia. Not the Greek guy some of you have used dispite the similar address. They are official resolers for La Sportiva and Scarpa, so they use original rubbers for those but resole any brand. Very nice quality of work and quick communication. They arrange the courier which has a fixed price for shipping, 40€ to where I'm from, so we've usually collected around 20 pairs for the order. Not sure how it works for UK post brexit, though.

Sounds like paid endorsement, doesn't it...
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fultonius on November 25, 2022, 03:16:43 pm
This old topic....

I seem to be getting through my "resoled" pairs pretty quickly, mainly because it's what I use at TCA Prop Store, which has textured walls. This means the wear extremely quickly right under the big toe and all the other rubber is almost untouched. If you compare this to my "outdoor" shoes, they're much more even and last way longer.

Reckon there's any way of doing a micro-repair on just the toe?
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: kelvin on November 25, 2022, 03:48:19 pm
This old topic....

I seem to be getting through my "resoled" pairs pretty quickly, mainly because it's what I use at TCA Prop Store, which has textured walls. This means the wear extremely quickly right under the big toe and all the other rubber is almost untouched. If you compare this to my "outdoor" shoes, they're much more even and last way longer.

Reckon there's any way of doing a micro-repair on just the toe?

Couldn't you hammer in those metal tips that were trendy in the early eighties?
That'd do the job.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fultonius on November 25, 2022, 04:04:09 pm
 :-\
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: SA Chris on November 25, 2022, 04:22:44 pm

https://www.climbers-shop.com/climbing-equipment/climbing-shoes/five-ten-stealth-paint-kit__9931820

if you can find any?
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Dac on November 25, 2022, 06:47:10 pm
I pretty sure 5:10 don't do that stealth paint stuff anymore. But just in case, for the purpose suggested, it was essentially useless. I tried it myself many years ago and it just grates off onto the wall, much like rubber from a pencil eraser would.

I think it was meant for adding rubber toe patches onto shoes (for which it may be perfectly good). I used what was left of mine adding grippiness to ice ace shafts (which worked brilliantly) and attempting to add friction to the underside of a particularly slippy bouldering mat (which improved things a bit).
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: andy_e on July 08, 2023, 11:55:24 am
What's the latest beta on resoling? Got a pair of Dragons that I'd love to continue using forever but are now wearing incredibly thin. Where's the best place to get them done?
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: teestub on July 08, 2023, 12:01:46 pm
Personally, and saying this as a 5.10 lover, I'd save your cash and buy something new instead. I've had nothing but rubbish results trying to get 5.10's resoled, I think they just don't have the same build quality in the midsoles as their Euro counterparts.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: cheque on July 08, 2023, 12:17:00 pm
What's the latest beta on resoling? Got a pair of Dragons that I'd love to continue using forever but are now wearing incredibly thin. Where's the best place to get them done?

Feet First Chesterfield. I’ve been getting 5.10s & Unparallels done by them for years and they’re always great.

I’ll have said this higher up the thread but it’s worth repeating, how worn your shoes are when you take/ send them in to be resoled has a direct bearing on how good they’ll be when they come back and this is especially true for 5.10s, as Teestub says. If they’re at (or even getting to) the point where you can’t climb in them any more you’re probably better off chucking your Dragons and getting a pair of Siriuses.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: T_B on July 08, 2023, 01:36:56 pm
The guy who resoled at Feet First has gone. I used them for years but my mate recently got a pair done and they are ridiculous. Completely unusable.

For Sheffield based peeps Northern Soles has just taken up residency next to the Foundry. Andrew has been trained in Spain and has all the gear including 200 lasts.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: andy_e on July 08, 2023, 01:49:24 pm
Cheers all, might be worth noting that these are more of a vanity project and not meant to be anything other than slopping around indoors or swedging around outside in. For more serious action I've various pairs of Unparallels (which don't look anywhere near as good as old Dragons do).
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Fultonius on July 08, 2023, 01:57:37 pm
The guy who resoled at Feet First has gone. I used them for years but my mate recently got a pair done and they are ridiculous. Completely unusable.

For Sheffield based peeps Northern Soles has just taken up residency next to the Foundry. Andrew has been trained in Spain and has all the gear including 200 lasts.

Got a couple of pairs done at feet firs, recently, and the quality  not bad actually, but.... BUT.... We were informed pre sending that they were struggling to get through the backlog and it would be about 17 weeks. I also wanted 2 pairs of boots done (one slightly niche pair of winter boots) and so though, "sod it, not in a rush". Well, 17 weeks turned into 6 months and that's apparently the current wait.

Therefore, I'd say avoid for now.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: T_B on July 08, 2023, 02:08:54 pm
They must have got someone completely untrained to do my mate’s as all of the edges had been rounded off in a massive radius. Might be ok on VDiff cracks!
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: cheque on July 08, 2023, 03:05:49 pm
We were informed pre sending that they were struggling to get through the backlog and it would be about 17 weeks. I also wanted 2 pairs of boots done (one slightly niche pair of winter boots) and so though, "sod it, not in a rush". Well, 17 weeks turned into 6 months and that's apparently the current wait.

Therefore, I'd say avoid for now.

They must have got someone completely untrained to do my mate’s as all of the edges had been rounded off in a massive radius. Might be ok on VDiff cracks!

This is the mad thing about Feet First, whenever I mention them there are always horror stories but I’ve honestly never had anything but great service from them. It’s been the same two blokes working there the whole time I’ve been taking them (6-7 years now) as far as I can tell.

I dropped two pairs of Unparallels off at 9:23AM on Thursday 22nd June. I had the same conversation I always have- bloke says “you’ve caught these just in time, they won’t need the rands repairing, that’s what really takes the time, should be ready in a few weeks”. I say “no rush, I have other ones to wear in the meantime”. Got the text message saying they were ready to pick up at  3:11PM on Wednesday 28th of June. Picked them up a week later and the price was £102 which is 2x the price given for the bog standard climbing shoe repair on their website. The reason I’ve recorded this in police-report levels of detail is because I had a disagreement about how long they take with a mate (who also took his in in person) the other week and I wanted to reassure him and myself that I’m not going mad.

Edges always seem fine to me.I have a couple of pairs of unworn shoes still in the box here and the edges look the same as on the ones I picked up the other day.

I’ve honestly no idea why I get good service and others don’t :shrug:. I’m not mates with them and I take them shoes twice a year, max. My only theory is that I take them in when they’re at the sweet spot which is quite a way before they’re completely worn out. That’s why I always give the advice about when to take them whenever I recommend them.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Duncan campbell on July 08, 2023, 10:07:52 pm
Llanberis resoles ftw for me. Always a great resole.

I get a similar weirdly good level of service from Torquil too, last time I took my shoes in the waiting time on the website was 2-3 weeks they were done the week after I took them in!! Now that Torquil gets “official Sportiva spare parts” my resoles seem even better aka stiffer/like new shoes.

Seem a similar price to Feet First but for me, peace of mind that I will get a usable product after. Plus my GF lives in NW so no bother to drop in/pick up
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: cheque on July 08, 2023, 10:35:02 pm
I should have added that I was recommending Feet First for Five Ten/ Unparallel.

Torquil is the guy for Sportiva & Scarpa by all accounts but he butchered a pair of whites I sent him a decade ago and as I understand it doesn’t even bother with that style these days. while he does appear to do them again he only has Vibram rubber, not the Unparallel stuff.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Scouse D on July 08, 2023, 10:44:41 pm
Had a pair of Scarpa instinct vsr resoled with llanberis. Very nice looking job BUT they are much softer than they were rendering them pretty useless for small edges but a perfect indoor boot.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: Bradders on July 09, 2023, 07:48:04 am
I've likewise had a pair of Instinct VSRs done by Llanberis Resoles and it extended their lifespan to >4 years of their being my primary bouldering shoe. They were maybe marginally softer but really just felt nicely worn in rather than too soft. I've only just had to retire them recently as other parts of the shoes are falling apart, but the edges are still good.

Also had an old pair of Instinct VSs done. I'd written them off really but after the resole they were basically the only boot I used for a season of UK lime sport.

Interesting to see the outcomes are so variable, must be something to do with how they go in determining how well they come out.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: moose on July 09, 2023, 08:52:37 am
I think the stiffness of most climbing shoes is due to the midsole, which is a thin layer of plastic behind the rubber sole (in some shoes its only part-length).  If the midsole is degraded, just due to repeated flexing during its lifetime, replacing the rubber at the front end during a resole won't improve that - possibly make it worse if removing the old rubber damages the underlying structure. 
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: thunderbeest on July 09, 2023, 09:03:28 am
Has Antoine tried resoling Tenayas? I always feel by the time I wear through the rubber,most of the shoe is worn out. The heel peeling off, the toe rubber peeling off.

But a good shoe while they last
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: SA Chris on July 09, 2023, 10:18:48 pm
I think the stiffness of most climbing shoes is due to the midsole, which is a thin layer of plastic behind the rubber sole (in some shoes its only part-length).  If the midsole is degraded, just due to repeated flexing during its lifetime, replacing the rubber at the front end during a resole won't improve that - possibly make it worse if removing the old rubber damages the underlying structure.

Sounds like carbon fibre plates are needed. Next % jobs.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: SamT on September 02, 2023, 08:40:12 am

NEW RESOLE SHOP IN SHEFFIELD!

Check out Northern Soles in the Foundry Carpark (By Jagged Globe)

It's my ex bosses new venture and I know he's been putting in a lot of effort over the last year or so to get things up and running.  Really hope it works out well for him  :2thumbsup:

As I understand it, the website is still under construction but he has a Facebook page.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0hcDj2xXhgEMLDvoR1NEnS3Nj3U8zFj1urxiYnDnPq89k9mw2xXXTQKAo9PYKNMQ1l&id=100091846744385

He's going to be organising a drop box at the foundry so it's easy to drop boots off.

"Resole Only - £45 
Resole + Rand Repair - £60
We generally resole like for like with the rubber but if you require anything different then just let us know."
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: csl on September 03, 2023, 11:43:26 am
I forgot I made this thread - 3 years on I’m a convert to resoles. Had a few pairs from Llanberis and very happy with them.
Title: Re: Is resoling worth it?
Post by: steveri on September 03, 2023, 12:20:17 pm
Good luck to your mate.

For info, Cheshire still have sensible turnaround times. Dropped a pair of Instinct SRs on the Saturday, ready the following Thursday. Pleased with them so far and compare well to another newer pair.
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